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Full text of "The new statistical account of Scotland"

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T M E NEW 

STATISTICALACC 

OF 

SCOTLAND. 

^V OL. VII. 



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THE NEW 



STATISTICAL ACC0UN1 



S C OTLAND. 



BY 



the mikistehs of" the respective parishes, under thf 
sup£rikt£:ki>knc£ of a committee of the society 

FOR TUB BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND 
DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY. 



VOL. VII. 



BENFBEW-ARGYLE, 



/ 



WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, 
EDINBURGH AND LONDON. 
MDCCCXLV. 



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HENFRE 



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CONTENTS. 



cathcart, 

eagl.bsham9 

eastwood or pol-lock, 

ERSK1NK, 

GIIEENCCK, 

HOUSTON ANI> KT1.1.A1.LAN, 

INCHINNAN, 

IXNRRKIP, 

KlLBARCHANy 

KILMALCOI^M, 

LOCHWISNOCH, 

STEARNS, 

>fEILSTON, 

PAISLEV, 

PORT'Gi^ASGnW , 

RE.VFREIV, 



PAGE 405 

383 

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PARISH OF RENFREW. 

PRESBYTERY OF PAISLEY, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR* 

THE REV. DUNCAN MACFARLAN, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The liame of this parish, as well as of the county, ap- 
pears to have belonged originally to the site and neighbourhood of 
the present burgh. A town bearing the same name existed here 
in the reign of David I., which commenced in 1124. We are, 
from this and other evidence, carried back to a period when some 
dialect of the Celtic must have been spoken in this part of the 
country ; in this immediate neighbourhood, — most probably that of 
the Strath- Clyde Britons. Clyde, Leven, Lomond, Dumbarton 
and, as we think, Renfrew, are all British names. The author of 
Caledonia derives the last of these from Rhyn^ in Welsh, or Rinn^ 
in Gaelic and Irish ; — both meaning a point of land ; and Frew^ or 
FraWi in Welsh, a flow of water ; thus making Renfrew the point 
of land near the flow or conflux of the rivers Clyde and Gryfe. All 
who are acquainted with the localities of the burgh will recognize 
in this an apt description ; yet it must have been much more so, 
when these rivers spread out as they formerly did, leaving the lands 
around the burgh literally as a point appearing amidst the waters. 
Assuming, then, that this name was anciently applied to the site 
of the burgh, it is easy to understand how it would afterwards be 
given to the burgh itself, and from it to the parish ; and we know, 
that it was afterwards extended, first to the barony, and then to the 
sheriffdom or county. Hence the name of the burgh, the parish, 
and the county of Renfrew. * 

Extent and Boundaries. — This parish comprehends the whole 
of the burgh, and a landward district extending to about 5^ miles 

• It may not be improper here to notice an error, into which several respectable 
writers have fallen on this subject ; apparently copying one from another. Among 
others, Crawford, in his history of the county, alleges Renfrew to be the same with 
Randuara, a name said to be found in Ptolemy, as quoted by Cambden. The re- 
ference to Cambden is correct, but the word used by Ptolemy is Vanduaria ; and the 
place to which this latter name is applied, instead of being on the very banks of the 
Clyde, appears to be nearly equidistant between it and the Ayrshire coast. 
RENFREW. A 



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2 RENFREWSHIRE. 

in length, and 2^ at its greatest breadth, — the amount of surface 
being about 9 square miles. It is bounded on the north by the pa- 
rishes of East and West Kilpatrick, both in the county of Dum- 
barton ; on the east chiefly by the parish of Govan, in the county 
of Lanark; on the south by the Abbey parish of Paisley; and on 
the west, or rather the north-west, by the rivers Black Cart and 
Gryfe, which separate it from the parishes of Kilbarchan and 
Inchinan. 

Topographical Appearances. — The general outline is irregular, 
and is farther broken by the intersection of several navigable rivers. 
Fully one-third of the whole is on the north side of the river Clyde ; 
this being the only part of the county which crosses that river. A 
similar proportion of what remains is separated from the rest by 
the White Cart, and a navigable canal which runs for a short dis- 
tance alongside of it. Communication with this district of the 
parish is maintained by bridges, and with the north side of the 
Clyde by boats. Row-boats are employed for foot-passengers, and 
a large vessel open at both ends, and moved along a chain by a 
hand-windlass, for cattle, carts, and carriages. The general ap- 
pearance of the parish, in its two southern divisions, is that of an 
almost perfect level, and very much in the centre of an extensive 
plain ; stretching southward to the hilly country above Paisley ; 
westward into the parishes of Kilbarchan, Houston, and Erskine ; 
northward to the base of tlie Kilpatrick range ; and eastward to- 
wards Glasgow. In this general division of the parish, there is only 
one noticeable acclivity, which, from its insular situation, commands 
an extensive view, and is dignified with the appellation of Knock, 
a low hill. On the north side of the river Clyde, the surface is 
more unequal. The hilly undulations, which skirt the base of the 
Kilpatrick range, shoot down and overlook the lower grounds; and, 
running eastward towards Glasgow, are formed into a succession of 
low conical hills, several of which afe within this parish. The most 
considerable of these is Jordanhill, which rises perhaps 180 feet 
above the level of the river. Between and around these, the lands 
are low, flat, and alluvial ; resembling those on the south side of 
the river. On both sides are several handsome mansion-houses, 
with plantations corresponding, which greatly diversify and enrich 
the general landscape. There is a small hill above Scotstown 
gate, from which the central and richest portion of the view is best 
seen ; and for a more distant and general view of the parish and 



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RENFREW. 3 

surrounding country, we know of no point better than the hill on 
which the High Church of Paisley stands. 

Climate. — Although our climate cannot differ greatly from that 
of the surrounding parishes, it is probably in some respects modi- 
fied. Most of the parish lies very low, and is yet remarkably open ; 
the subsoil is generally dry and gravelly, — in many places, a bed of 
fine sand; the tide ebbs and flows through it in several channels ; and 
it is to a considerable extent sheltered by the Kilpatrick and 
Campsie hills on the north ; and the upper lands of Renfrewshire 
on the south and south-west. These and other local circumstances 
probably affect both the temperature and the quantity of rain com- 
mon to the surrounding parishes. Unfortunately there is no journal 
kept on either of these points ; but we know it to be the opinion 
of several intelligent observers, that there is a difference. Showers, 
especially from the west, are attracted by the hills, and fall out in 
the more broken parts of the country ; very much passing over the 
central plain. An intelligent farmer, who has resided all his life 
on an elevated tract of the Kilpatrick hills, from which the 
whole vale of the Clyde may be distinctly seen, assured the writer, 
that he has been always accustomed to observe the lands about 
Renfrew and the point of Cardross, (another point similarly situat- 
ed,) sooner free of snow than any other part within view. In com- 
mon also with other parts of the country, our climate has been im- 
proving. Our winters are milder, our summers are said to be 
cooler ; and yet between sowing and reaping there is a shorter pe- 
riod. This last may be in part owing to the introduction of fo- 
reign seeds, that are of quicker growth ; but still more, we appre- 
hend, to increased draining, better and more thorough cultivation, 
and stimulating more abundantly with hot manures. The general 
deepening and embankment of our rivers, the drying up of stag- 
nant pools, the growing of plantations containing many evergreens^ 
and the cultivation of the country at large, must have also contri- 
buted to the amelioration of our winters. We are not sure whether 
the greater coolness of summer has yet been satisfactorily explained. 
The greater cold during winter might have made the summer's heat 
more noticeable, and perhaps the inferior equipments of husbandry, 
used sixty years ago, might have rendered both men and cattle more 
oppressed by the heat ; but may it not be farther submitted, whether, 
upon the same principle on which both the summer's heat and the 
winter's cold are modified near the sea, namely, the greater radia- 
tion of heat, — the general and more thorough cultivation of the soil 



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4 RENFREWSHIRE. 

may not have contributed to effect a similar change on land ? Iir 
connection with climate and other circumstances, this parish has 
long been accounted remarkably healthy. The writer of the for- 
mer Statistical Account says, " No place, perhaps, in the west of 
Scotland is so peculiarly healthy as Renfrew. Epidemical distem- 
pers are hardly ever known." In illustration of this latter circum- 
stance, it may be mentioned as a current tradition, that the plague 
which raged so much in the neighbourhood, especially about the 
beginning of the seventeenth century, never entered Renfrew. * 
And it can scarcely be said that the Asiatic cholera of 1832 en- 
tered it ; for, although there were two deaths believed to be by cho- 
lera, the individuals affected were understood to have caught the 
disease in Glasgow. We mention these facts as matters of ob- 
servation, but without believing them to be explicable on any other 
principle than that of Divine Providence. It is not to be conceal- 
ed, however, that typhus fever and British cholera, as well as the 
usual epidemics affecting children, occasionally visit this as much as 
other places. In 1787 or 1788, or about that time, small-pox 
seems to have been very fatal in the burgh and neighbourhood* 
Since that time, it yielded to the general use of vaccination, and 
seldom occurred till last autumn, when a species of the disease again 
appeared, spread generally among children, and attacked some 
grown people ; several of whom died, though they had been pre- 
viously vaccinated. The general impression, however, of aged 
people, who had seen small-pox in its more virulent forms, is, that 
our late visitation has been comparatively mild. 

Hydrography^ Src. — The subsoil being for the most part alluvial, 
our springs vary in their quaUty, and also in the depth to which wells 
must be sunk for them. About the burgh, they flow from the south 
chiefly through a bed of fine sand, and are remarkable for purity and 
perennity ; some of them, however, being slightly tinged with the 
oxide of iron. From the great changes which have taken place in 
our rivers, especially in the Clyde, and on account of its great com- 
mercial importance, it may be desirable to go more into detail under 

* At this time, Renfrew was a place of much greater relative importance than it 
now 18 ; and the inhabitants of Paisley were then, it would appear, accustomed to 
make purchases in it. During the time of the plague they were refused, as tradition 
says, admission into the burgh ; and to accommodate both parties, a kind of Exchange 
was established at the head of the " Ilairst Loan,'* the way l&iding to Paisley. A 
large fire was kept burning, with a pot suspended over it, containing water and a 
ladle in it. The Renfrew merchant having grasped the ladle, stretched It towards 
his Paisley customer, who deposited in it the price of his purchases ; it was then im» 
mcrsed in the boiling pot, and brought out purified from all infection, and declared 
current' 



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UENFRKW. 5 

this head than would otherwise be necessary. In the middle of the 
seventeenth century, there were between the Point House, oppo- 
site Govan and Erskine Ferry, a distance not exceeding perhaps 
eight miles, not fewer than eight islands, four of which appear to 
have been within this parish. The largest of these was called the 
King's Inch ; it had in it a large castle, once a royal residence ; and 
it now forms the principal domains of Eldersly House. Another, 
the Buck Inch, or, as it is vulgarly called, the Packman Isle, now 
forms part of the lands of Scotstown. A third, called the Sand 
^ Inch, still bears the name of " the Isle," and is part of the com- 
mon near the ferry of Renfrew. And a fourth, the Ron or Ren, 
lay in the mouth of the Gryfe.* When the river was thus divided 
and broken by so many islands, the different channels were full of 
banks. These naturally interrupted the currents, and caused the 
adjacent lands to be often flooded to a great extent. One of the 
channels passed immediately under the burgh, so that the gardens 
along the street called Townhead are still described in deeds of 
property, as bounded on the north by the Clyde, though they are 
now distant from the river probably half a-mile. About seventy 
or eighty years ago, a square-rigged vessel, which afterwards sail- 
ed in the Virginia trade, is said to have been launched into this 
channel from a building yard, which must have been over the pre- 
sent green, near Eldersly west gate.f This ancient channel may 
still be traced from the Marlin Ford above Braehead House, through 
the grounds now of Eldersly, along under the burgh and through 
the common. During the earlier part of this course, it formed the 
boundary line between the counties of Renfrew and Lanark ; and 
having received the Mill-Bum at the east end of the burgh, part 
of it is still partially open, under the name of Puddough, — a name 
most probably derived from the appearance of this channel when 
the other had been so deepened as very much to withdraw the 
water, leaving it comparatively small and muddy. From the burgh 
down to the ferry, there is a navigable canal, which was opened 
about fifty years ago, and which is partly in the old bed of the 
river. Towards the ferry, however, it is cut across what was at 
one time an island. To furnish some idea of the improvements 
which have been going on in the present channel, it may be stated, 

* These may be seen in a map of the county, published originally in Amsterdam 
in 1654, and republished with the last edition of Crawford*s History of the County 
in 18ia 

•]• At that period much smaller vessels were employed, we understand, than at pre- 
sent. 



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6 RENFREWSHIRE. 

that, in 1756, there was only one foot six inches of water at seve- 
ral of the fords (in summer) opposite the grounds of Eldersly; 
whereas there are now about six feet all the way up. And, as there 
is a rise of nearly six feet more during ordinary tides, twelve feet 
water have thus been secured. With spring tides, under high west and 
south-west winds, it may even rise to sixteen feet and upwards. Here 
at the period referred to, the width of the river at these places was 
from 684 to 884 feet, and now it runs from 230 to 280.* Operations 
for deepening the channel commenced soon after 1770, and have 
been chiefly directed to two points, — the confining of the current 
by parallel dikes and banks, and the deepening of the bed of the ri- 
ver, — latterly by dredging-machines, which are wrought by steam.f 
Geology and Mineralogy. — Nearly the whole of the low grounds 
in this parish are strictly alluvial. The subsoil consists chiefly of 
extensive beds of sand, often interspersed with thin strata of clay, 
sometimes of moss (peat-bog,) and occasionally interrupted with 
large masses of solid unstratified clay. The disposal of these and 
other deposits strongly indicates a submarine formation. Selecting 
a piece of land near the centre of this level tract, we had pits dug 
round several fields for examining the upper strata. And after 
passing through the soil, we sometimes found a few inches of clay, 
and at other times of moss, but more generally sand. Between 
the layers of sand, we found large deposits of the oxide of iron 
(which gives the water a rusty appearance,) but no ironstone; 
and often a quantity of coal gum, interspersed with pieces of coal, 
containing probably from one to six or eight cubical inches. This 
coal deposit, we found generally a few inches under the soil, and 
probably from two feet and a-half to three feet under the surface, 
and uniformly water-wom. We have repeatedly burned the coal, 
and found it to bum clearly like gas coal, and to be remarkably light.} 
Beneath this, we sometimes came to a fine sand, naturally white, 

* This, as well as the constant agitation of the water by steamers, may in part ao- 
comit for the small quantity of ice now found on the river. Old people recollect, 
when coals and other materials were usually carted ac'ross the Clyde on the ice for 
many weeks together ; and even so late as 1814, the people on the north side are said 
to have walked over to church for four or five Sabbaths in succession. Anything of 
the kind occurring now would be accounted very wonderful. 

f Much important information will be found, respecting the improvements of the 
river, in Dr Clelond's Statistical Work, and in the Account of Glasgow in this work. 
Farther improvements arc at present under consideration. An Engineer's Report 
now before me, contains plans for deepening the whole bed of the liver to not less 
than 20 feet, at high water, during neap-tides, and at an expense of L.d77,867, Ss. 94d. 

t^ This coal deposit, which must have been left by the water, is partially spread over 
the whole plain; as we lately found it, un the west of the Cart, at a distance of near- 
ly two miles from the other. 



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RENFREW. 7 

but appearing at first bluish black, from the tinge of the water with 
which it is filled. On running a walking stick frequently into the 
sand, it became quite dyed, so as to retain the colour, though fre- 
quently washed. On opening a pit, there was also a strong smell of 
bilge water, or such as is felt on digging within the flow of the tide 
down the frith. These pits were dug probably from four to six feet 
under the surface of the soil. And we may add, that the above 
observations may be verified by examining almost every deep ditch 
in that neighbourhood. In one place, we found a quantity of small 
shells, — cockles, muscles, welks, &c. not more than about twenty 
inches under the surface, imbedded in sand, but resting on a mass 
of clay. This was about a mile south of the burgh ; and about 
half a mile farther south, there is a long ridge or bank consisting 
chiefly of sand or gravel, and bearing the name of the " Cockle 
Hill.*' Near the place where the small shells were found, larger 
shells, resembling cockles, are also occasionally found at a depth of 
ten or twelve feet in unstratified clay ; and they have also been found 
in other parts of the parish. The western extremity of the ridge al- 
ready described also rises into a small conical hill, and consists, 
for a considerable depth, of gravel, bearing strong marks of its hav- 
ing been thrown up by cross currents. There are other two simi- 
lar knolls or hills in the parish, and of like consistency. One of 
these, Blawerthill, has been dug to a great depth ; and it appears 
that, under the gravel, there is a bed of clay exactly correspond- 
ing in quality and situation with that around the hill, — thus show- 
ing the gravel to be distinct from the surrounding strata, and rest- 
ing upon it. We have also before us, stones which were raised by the 
dredging-machine out of the bottom of the present channel of the 
Clyde, near Scotstown. These are composed of a soft slaty sub- 
stance, and are evidently water-worn, being formed into a variety of 
circular and other rounded figures, such as might be expected on 
some beach of fine sand, under the action of the tide. Yet they 
are found deeply imbedded in white mud, and lower than the 
wonted channel of the river.* The conclusion to which these 
facts naturally lead, is, that the whole of the level tract already de- 
scribed must at one time- have been under water, and that the 
surrounding heights, still free of alluvial matter, were then the 

* 11 7 borings have just been made in the bed of the river, between Glasgow and 
Findlayston, a distance of perhaps IG miles ; and throughout this course nothing has 
been found which may not be regarded as alluvial. Along this parish, running mud» 
sand, gravel and clay, sometimes mixed with small stones, form the chief nmterials. 
Along a considerable way, the bed of the river consists of white soft mud. 



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8 RENFREWSHIRE. 

shores of this inland frith, — the little insular hills having been 
banks and islands. And it forms an interesting corroboration of this, 
that the ancient names of several places indicate such a state. 
Even the name Renfrew may have originally marked a mere point 
of land, generally surrounded with water ; and the frequency of the 
name " Inch" — island, as applied to inland districts, probably refers 
to an earlier period than the mere branching of the Clyde. And 
what is still more remarkable, an ancient seat on the border of this 
plain is still called " Garscadden" — " The Herring Yair^^ although 
now at a distance of probably a mile and a-half from the Clyde. It 
is perhaps farther confirmatory of this, that in charters of the twelfth 
and thirteenth centuries, the herring fishing of the Clyde is spoken 
of as important, and as being possessed by the community of Ren* 
frew, and other parties farther up the river. That the level of 
the tide was also at one time much higher than at present, is de- 
monstrated from the appearance of the banks all the way down 
the frith, and even on the southern extremity of the island of Ar- 
ran. The cause of this important change furnishes a tempting 
field of speculation ; on^yhich it would be injudicious at present to 
enter. 

Under the alluvial matter thus described, the different strata 
seem very much to agree with those in the adjacent districts. 
They consist of diluvial clay, and similar materials containing 
boulders, chiefly of trap rock, and resting on the coal formation, 
common to this whole district of country. About the middle of 
the last century, both coal and lime were wrought on the farm of 
Porterfield, — about a mile south of the burgh. The working of 
these was frequently interrupted; but it continued at intervals 
down to about 1814. They were found at a depth of about thirty- 
five fathoms, and corresponded in quality with those found at Hur- 
let, but wholly different from the above mentioned deposit. The 
gentleman who last wrought these, mentions his having found a 
fossil fish, of considerable dimensions, imbedded in the limestone 
rock, at that depth. It wa§ sent to Glasgow, and is probably deposit* 
ed in some one of the museums. Coal has long been wrought on 
the north side of the Clyde, in the lands of Scotstown and Jordan- 
hill. We have now before us an account of the working of this coal, 
drawn up by the manager, and from which we shall furnish an ab- 
stract. The Skaterigg and Annisland coal is quite distinct from 
the general field already described. It rests on more elevated 
strata, is of a different quality, and is disposed in seams of much 



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RENFREW. 9 

smaller dimensions. It was wrought, till lately, by the Dumbarton 
Glass Company, and was used in their works, on account of its 
purity, as being free from sulphur and other obnoxious qualities. 
There are at present two pits in operation ; one 31 fathoms deep, 
and the other 38, — the engine pit being 64. There were origi- 
nally three seams of coal; — one 18 inches; another, called the 
main seam, 24; and that now wrought, 21. This last seam con- 
tains 7 inches of excellent gas coal, each pound yielding 4^ cubi- 
cal feet of gas, 4 inches of soft coal, and 10 inches of smithy coal. 
A dike, running from south-east to north-west, passes through 
the engine pit, leaving the seam on the north side 4^ fathoms 
lower, and which is wholly unwrought. Beneath all of these seams, 
it is believed, there may be found a continuation of the general coal 
field already referred to, — the coal wrought being not only diffe* 
rent in quality, but also occupying a higher place in the arrange* 
ment of the different strata. 

Botany. — The whole of this parish being "either cultivated or 
laid out in plantations, and possessing, moreover, a limited variety 
of soil, its indigenous botany is comparatively scanty. The fol- 
lowing are among the less frequently occurring plants. Ophrys 
ovata and O. cordata^ Serapias httifolia^ Campanula rotundifolia 
alba^ Veronica officinalis alba, Asplenium scolopendriunij A, rata 
muraria, and A, adiantum nigrum* Some of the more tender 
evergreens occasionally suffer, and in exposed places they often 
fail ; but wherever there is sufficient shelter, and especially from the 
previous growth of trees and shrubs, not deciduous, they grow 
freely enough. In the border of Scotstown garden, there is a 
very fine Tulip tree and several Acacias, all of which have been 
richly covered with flowers. 

Zoology, — We have now before us, through the kindness of a 
friend, a list of nearly seventy species of birds, known to frequent 
this parish, about one-half of which are resident throughout the 
year. It has been remarked, that the missel-thrush ( Turdus vis^ 
civorusj) which was rare in this country perhaps twenty years ago, 
is now so abundant as to cause great annoyance, where there is 
small fruit. The starling (Stumus vulgaris) also regularly breeds 
here, and remains with us throughout the season. And the kings- 
fisher (Alcedo ispida) is occasionally seen. We are persuaded that 
the improvement of the country, and especially by forming planta- 
tions of evergreens, is rapidly increasing settlers among us from the 
south. And although we have not had the same means of being 



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10 RENFREWSHIRE. 

informed respecting insects, we have little doubt that a similar 
change is going on among them. 

The most important fish in our rivers is the salmon. And 
as this burgh long possessed an exclusive right to fish along the 
whole length of the county, the value of the salmon-fishing, is to 
it a matter of importance. To ascertain with as much accuracy 
as possible, the effects which the commercial improvements on the 
Clyde may have had on the quantity taken, we have had a state- 
ment made out of the rents of the fishing for 120 years, ending 
with 1834. During that period the rent seems to have made gra- 
dual progress. Taking the last sixty years,^ during which these im- 
provements have almost wholly taken place, and dividing them into 
three periods of twenty years each, the amount of rent for each pe- 
riod will stand thus: From 1774 to 1794, L. 1126, 14s.; from 1794 
to 1814, L.d902, 4s.; and from 1814 to 1834, L.4199, Is. 
From this it would seem as if the fishing had actually increased, 
whereas we find it to be the uniform testimony of aged men, prac- 
tically acquainted with the matter, that the quantity is probably 
not more than one-third or even one-fourth of what it once was ; 
the increase of the rent being chiefly dependent on the rise of the 
price, and partly, perhaps, also on competition among bidders for 
the fishing. The embankment of the river keeps the fish in the 
current, leaving them no resting-place ; and even this is, during per- 
haps fifteen hours of every day, ( Sabbaths only partially excepted,) 
— frequently agitated by steamers. They are also deprived probably 
of many beds where they were wont to spawn. But, above all, the 
water of the river is now so saturated with poisonous matter, from 
Glasgow and other places, as greatly to injure them. During se- 
vere drought in summer, we have seen many large fishes floating 
dead on the surface of the water.* 

II. — Civil History. 
Family of Stewart, — The ancient family of Stewart had their 
first residence and special patrimony in this parish. The earliest 
ancestor of this family, respecting whom we have properly authen- 
ticated information, was Walter, usually denominated Filius Alani. 
To him, the burgh and territory of Renfrew, with other estates and 
perquisites, were granted by David I., who ascended the throne in 

* It is a curious fact, attested by all fishermen, that the salmon uniformly seek? to 
return to the place where it was spawned. As the spawning beds of the Clyde are 
chiefly above Glasgow, it forces its way up the river, and has to encounter all the 
hiuderances that occur. It were well, therefore, even in ao economical point of yiew, 
that every hinderance to the upward progress of the salmon were on Sabbath removed^ 
and this noble fish allowed the free use of his native river. 

3 



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RENFREW. 11 

1124, And died in 1153. This Walter was, at the same time, 
invested with the office of Seneschallus Domiis Regis, Steward of 
the King's Household, or Dapifer Regis, the King's Steward, 
which he is sometimes called ; and hence the origin of the name 
Stewart. It seems to be clearly proven, that this Walter had also 
property in Shropshire, and was otherwise connected with that part 
of England ; from which it has been inferred that he himself came 
from that country. After settling in Renfrew, he founded the 
abbey of Paisley, and died in 1177, being succeeded by his son 
Alan. He also inherited his father's office, and flourished in the 
reign of William the Lion. He died in 1204, and was succeeded 
by Walter, also denominated in charters, Filius Alani. He was made 
Seneschallus ScoHcb^ and the office was now rendered hereditary in 
the family ; in consequence of which, he and his successors were 
commonly called " the Stewards." This term seems to have been 
used for some time officially ; but when surnames came to be intro- 
duced, it naturally assumed that character. This ^^ Steward" died 
in 1246, and was succeeded by Alexander, who, in 1255, was ap- 
pointed one of the regents, and in 1263, commanded the Scottish 
forces at the famous battle of Largs. He died in 1281, or betwixt 
that year and 1283, and was succeeded by James, who took a leading 
part in behalf of his country in the troubles which followed. He died 
in 1309, leaving his son Walter only sixteen years of age. When 
twenty-one, he appeared with his vassals at the Torwood, before the 
battle of Bannockburn ; and was, with Sir James Douglas, put in 
command of a division of the Scottish army. After the battle, he 
was knighted by King Robert the Bruce, and the year following 
he became son-in-law to the King, by his marriage with Marjory, 
the King's only daughter, on whom the reversion of the crown 
had already been settled. In 1316, only a year after marriage, his 
wife died, leaving by him a son called Robert. This son succeed- 
ed his father in 1326, and in 1371, he succeeded his uncle David 
IL under the title of Robert II. Hence the accession of the 
Stewarts to royalty. 

Several memorials of the ancient residence of this illustrious 
family are still observable in Renfrew. On a rising ground be- 
tween the cross and the ferry, is the site of the ancient castle, 
the common residence of the " Stewarts." A charter granted by 
'^ James the Stewart," and grandfather to King Robert II. is dated 
^' apud manerium nostrum de Renfrew." Crawford alsQ mentions 
that he had seen a lease of the castle of Renfrew, with the orchards 



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12 RENFREWSHIRE. 

and meadows therewith connected, granted in favour of Lord Lyll 
and his heirs, and bearing date 1468. After this, the Hawkhead 
family became Heritable Constables. Within the recollection of 
many living, there was a deep fosse partially round the site, built 
with stone on the inner side, and having a small rivulet passing 
through it ; but no part of the castle is recollected. Immediately 
adjoining and stretching away from the burgh, there had been an ex- 
tensive orchard, and part of the fruit trees are remembered ; and 
farther on, was " the King's Meadow." It is still called by the same 
name; the lands formerly an orchard, are still called " the orchard ;" 
the site of the castle is still ^^ Castle hill ;" and part of the ancient 
foundations were lately dug up, when several rings and a key were 
found. A small street immediately adjoining is still called the 
** Dog Row," meaning the place where the ancient kennel was. 
And a chimney-piece, of unusual length and remarkably low, is 
still found in a cottage opposite the end of this row, which tradition 
alleges to have belonged to an establishment for boiling dogs' meat. 
Close by Renfrew are the domains of Eldersly, formerly an island, 
and bearing the name of " the King's Inch." On this island, and 
only a short way in front of the present mansion-house, stood 
another castle, formerly possessed by the Stewarts, and afterwards 
by the House of Hawkhead. In a charter granted by Walter " the 
first Steward," the following expression occurs, — " cum ilia maisura 
super rupem, ubi aula mea erat fundata ;" and in a confirmatory 
charter, granted by his son Alan, " the second Steward," the same 
clause is thus repeated, '^ cum ilia maisura super rupem ubi aula 
patris mei] erat fundata." It is a remarkable circumstance, that 
there is not a spot in this parish, where rock is visible, except where 
the ancient castle of the Inch stood. Here there was a mass of 
whin rock, which was removed on the erection of the present man- 
sion of Eldersly. And as it is clear, from the terms of these char- 
ters, that the " Aula" referred to, was about Renfrew, we are dis- 
posed to believe, that the first residence of " the Stewards" was on 
" the Inch." The castle and domains of the Inch afterwards pas- 
sed into the hands of the Hawkhead family, and the ruins of the 
last castle were taken down preparatory to the erection of Eldersly 
House. At that time they consisted of three stories, but were built 
in a castellated form. A sketch of the ruins was taken, not Jong 
before their removal, and was possessed by the present provost of 
the burgh ; but it became amissing, and has not yet been found. 
Two points of the above narrative of the house of Stewart may 



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RENFREW. 13 

be illustrated from other memorials, now on the verge of oblivion* 
Nearly sixty years ago, two monuments connected with the history 
of that family stood on the Knock hill, an elevated ridge of land 
about halfway between Renfrew and Paisley, and described in the 
former section. A highly respectable farmer, who was born and 
brought up on the Knock, and who was accustomed to see these 
from his infancy, guided the writer to their sites, which are now 
wholly obliterated. The following description may therefore be 
of use to after generations. Proceeding first to the highest point 
of the road between Renfrew and Paisley, and as it crosses the 
Cockle hill, we find a gate on the west side. Ninety-six yards from 
this gate, in a straight line towards the north corner of the Knock 
farm-house, there was, at the period referred to, a circular mound 
of earth, about twenty yards in diameter, and surrounded by a moat 
five yards broad, the mound having been apparently raised by the 
earth taken out of the moat. This mound was commonly known 
by the name of the Kempe Knowe. The tradition is, that there 
was at one time a wager between the Scottish and English sove- 
reigns ; the latter having challenged Scotland to furnish a man 
able to fight a noted champion attendant on the English court ; 
and the former having accepted the challenge. The King of Scot- 
land being much perplexed to find a man competent to the task, 
offered " The Inch" as a reward to any who should successfully 
encounter the Englishman. At last Sir John Ross of Hawkhead 
offered his services, and arrangements were made on the Knock 
hill for the fight. The moat was filled with water, a large fire was 
kindled on the mound, and the parties were expected to grant no 
terms. To escape was to meet death by drowning; and to be 
vanquished was to perish, — if not otherwise, by fire. The English- 
man was of large stature and renowned prowess, while Ross was 
only a private gentleman, and of small stature, but of great agility 
and muscular strength. Having equipped himself with a dress of 
skin-, the smooth side out, and rendered farther slippery with grease 
or oil, he appeared on the ground with his more bulky antagonist. 
After many unavailing attempts to lay hold of Ross, the English- 
man held out his own hands, inviting his antagonist to grasp them, 
and no doubt trusting to his own superior strength against any ad- 
vantage which might thus be given. The invitation was " palm 
my arm.". This, it seems, was the hold Ross most coveted. He 
seized the Englishman by the wrists, and, by a sudden jerk, wrench- 
ed his shoulders out of their sockets, and made easy work of him. 



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14 RENFREWSHIRE. 

He now claimed his reward, and the King, desirous of retaining the 
castl^ and lands of Inch, offered for this inch a span of land any- 
where else. Ross, thanking the King, expressed his satisfaction 
with the Inch for present services, and the happiness it would give 
him to have the honour of serving his Majesty for the span at some 
other time. Hence, as is alleged, the origin of the rights of the 
Hawkhead family to the ancient castle and lands of the Inch. From 
this time, adds tradition, Ross went commonly by the name of 
•* Palm-my-arm." Figures of this same knight and his lady, Mar- 
jory Mure, lay long under an arch in the church of Renfrew, hav- 
ing over them on the circle of the arch the following inscription : 
*^ hie jacet johes : ros miles quodem : dominus de hawkehede et 
marjoria uxor sua ; orate pro meis, qui obiit." The statues have 
been removed within the aisle, but the inscription may still be read 
in the church. This monument is evidently very old, but proba- 
bly somewhat posterior in date to the age of the persons repre- 
sented. When speaking of this monument, however, the old in- 
habitants give it no other name than " Palm-my-arm ;" while in 
relating the anecdote they call Ross Josias, being probably led 
into a mistake by the contraction of the name. 

Proceeding from the centre of the circle on the Knock farm, as 
already described, and towards a point about two yards and a half 
south of the byre door, and at the distance of 134 yards, we come 
to the site of another monument. Sixty years ago an octagonal 
column, of about ten feet in height, and inserted in a pedestal of 
perhaps six feet in diameter stood here. * It was without any in- 
scription, but went commonly by the name of " Queen Blearie's 
Stane.'* Tradition describes the person meant, to be Marjory 
Bruce, daughter of King Robert I., mother of King Robert IL, 
and wife of Walter the Steward. It farther accounts for the mo- 
nument, by alleging that she had been hunting, and fell from her 
horse at this particular spot, — that she was at the time far advanced 
in pregnancy, — that the child was separated from her by a surgical 
operation, but at the expense of the mother's life. A similar account 
will be found in " Hamilton's Description of the Shires of Lanark 
and Renfrew," and also in two old histories reprinted with it. And 

* To render the exact position of this ancient monument more certain, let the ob- 
server look from the )>olnt assumed, directly towards Cochney House in Kiipatrick, 
and his line of vision will, if his position be correct, pass a few yards west of Inchinan 
bridge, and directly over the adjoining drawbridge. The monument which stood 
here at the period referred to, was removed in 1781 or 1782, as near as can be recoU 
lected. The shaft was made the lintel of a barn door, but the &rm-steading having 
1>een since rebuilt, it has disappeared. 



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RENFREW. 15 

farther proofs and illustrations of both this and the former monu- 
ment will be found in the same work by its ingenious and learned 
editor. With the historical controversy raised on this last tradi- 
tion, we cannot farther intermeddle than to add our name to the list 
of those who sustain the tradition, supported as it is with historical 
facts; and simply to add, that we examined the, spot, accompanied by 
our fore-mentioned guide, — that the ground rises immediately be- 
hind this into a dry, hard, gravelly knoll, vvhile the place where 
she is said to have fallen is soft and marshy ; and was so to a much 
greater extent in the recollection of our informant " He had 
often," he said, " seen the cattle lair* in it." And he added, 
that the common belief of those whom he had heard in early life re- 
peat the tradition, was that her horse must have been coming over 
the knoll, and got into this marsh before she was aware ; and the 
appearance of the grounds still comports with this explanation. 

Religiota Houses, — One of the objects which first engaged the 
attention of the Stewards after their settlement, was the establish- 
ment of religious houses in this quarter. Walter, the first Steward, 
seems to have established a monastery of the Cluniac order of Bene- 
dictine monks first at Renfrew. In a confirmatory charter of Mal- 
colm IV. a previous grant by Walter the first Steward is thus de- 
scribed: ** Sciunt tam posteri quam presentes me concessisse, et hac 
mea carta confirmasse, Deo et ecclesiae Sanctae Marise et Sancti Ja- 
cobi, de insula Juxto oppidum Reinfrew^ eX priori ^usdem loci^ et mo- 
nachis ibidem" And in a charter granted afterwards in favour of the 
abbey of Paisley, the following clause occurs : " et molendinum de 
Renfru, et terram td>i monachi prius habitaverunt" From this and 
other evidence, it would appear, that what afterwards became the ab- 
bey of Paisley was first a religious house at Renfrew ; and that, dur- 
ing the lifetime of the founder, it was chiefly removed to Paisley. As 
to the place it occupied here, we are disposed to differ from some in 
thinking that it was on the Inch. We believe it to have been rather 
on the south banks of that channel of the Clyde which passed un- 
der Renfrew, and therefore not far from the street opposite Mill- 
Burn House. And hence the adjoining lands were afterwards 
chaplainries, — the chaplainries of St Mary and St Thomas, — 
which names they still bear. And lands immediately adjoining 
these are still called Monk Dyke, &c. We may add, that a great 
number of altarages were afterwards erected, such as that of St 
Mary or our Lady, St Christopher, St Ninian, St Andrew, St 
Thomas, St Bartholomew, and the Holy Cross. 

• ** Lair, slick in the mire."— Jam. Et. Diet. 



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16 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Burgh. — This burgh was first regal, as possessed by the ancient 
Kings of Scotland. On its passing into the hands of the Stewarts, 
it became a burgh of barony. But Robert III., to whom it belong- 
ed as part of his patrimonial inheritance, granted a charter to the 
" burgesses and community," making over his right, and consti- 
tuting it a royal burgh. This charter was granted in 1396, and 
contains a full grant of the burgh itself, of the fishing on the river, 
of the customs levied within the burgh and throughout the barony, 
and of whatever other privileges might be enjoyed by any other 
burgh in Scotland ; the reddendum being eight merks and payment 
of a hundred shillings to support a chaplain in the parish church. 
Two confirmatory charters were granted in the reign of James VI. 
The former of these bears date 1575, and conveys an additional 
grant of all the religious houses and altarages, &c. connected with 
the burgh. This latter is dated in 1614, and ratifies the two for- 
mer, explaining, if not making, additional grants, especially in con- 
nection with privileges belonging to the burgh as the principal port 
on the Clyde. These are numerous, and particularly secured. 
After enumerating a long list of properties and privileges vested in 
the burgh, the following statement is set forth as containing the spe- 
cial ends to be served by these : " Pro meliore mstentatione paU" 
perumet schol<B grammatioB in dicto burgo^pro educatione adolescent 
Hum ejusdem in virtute et Uteris prout Praeposito et Ballivis dicti 
burgi expediens videretur :" i. e. for the better maintenance of the 
poor, and of a grammar-school in the said burgh, for the education 
of the young in virtue and learning ; and under the direction of the 
provost and bailies. In an after part of the same charter, certain 
ecclesiastical property is also specially set apart for the mainte- 
nance of a gramniar school. In 1703 another confirmatory char- 
ter was granted by Queen Anne, ratifying those which preceded, 
both generally and specially ; and it may be added, that she also 
speaks of herself as coming in the room of the ancient Stewarts, 
from whom, moreover, the Royal family still derive one of their 
titles, — Baron of Renfrew. The arms of the burgh consist of a ves- 
sel constructed after an ancient and simple form, having a figure of 
the sun over the prow, and of the moon over the stern, with two 
crosses, one fore and another aft. Two escutcheons are hung from 
the yard, one bearing a lion rampant, and the other the arms of the 
Stewarts, — Or, a fess checquie, azure and argent. In the colours 
flying at the mast-head is a St Andrew's cross. And the whole is 
surmounted with the motto " Deus gubernat navem." 



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RENFREW. 17 

The limits of the royalty are extensive, probably comprehending 
the whole of the burgh's ancient domains, and being confined to 
these; — for Castle Hill, and Orchard lands, &c« anciently belonging 
to the baronial residence, are legally without the burgh, though 
forming part of the town ; while other lands more than a mile dis- 
tant are included. The Parliamentary boundaries are, on the 
other hand, drawn closely round the part built upon, without any 
reference to ancient limits. They are also on one side utcorrectly 
described, — the term " Puddough burn" being mistaken for Mill 
burn. The affairs of the burgh are managed by a provost, two 
bailies, and sixteen councillors ; and the annual rental of burgh 
property amounts to about L. 1500, the interest of debts being 
upwards of L. 100. Weekly courts are hejd by the magistrates 
for the administration of justice. The quarter sessions are still held 
here, as are several other county meetings, especially that for elect- 
ing the county member, — the Sheriff and most other courts being 
held in Paisley. Previous to the Reform Act, this burgh, along 
with Glasgow, Rutherglen, and Dumbarton, returned a member 
to Parliament ; but since the passing of that act Renfrew is con- 
nected with Kilmarnock, Rutherglen, Dumbarton, and Port-Glas- 
gow, the number of voters in this burgh being about 80. 

Antiquities. — The additional antiquities of this parish are neither 
numerous nor perhaps important. Historians speak of a great battle 
having been fought at Renfrew, in 1164, between Sumerled, Lord 
of the Isles, and the inhabitants of this country ; but we are not 
aware of any existing memorial to mark the spot We have also 
seen the record of a tradition, assigning to the ^< Eaiock" hill in 
this parish the origin of the surname Knox. And it is at least re- 
markable, that, in a charter dated 1503, and quoted by Crawford, 
the proprietor of " Knock" is styled " Uchter Knock." It is far- 
ther noticeable, that Knock and Ranfurly were at that time posses- 
sed by the same family : thus connecting the alleged descent of the 
Reformer with the Knock as well as Ranfurly. In 1778^ two urns, 
containing human ashes, were dug up on the summit of the Knock 
hill. They were believed to be Roman, — this point being little more 
than a mile from the place where the Romans had a station, near 
Paisley. In connection with the same hill, it may be added, that, 
on the side nearest Renfrew, the lower edge of the hill is to this 
day called the " Butts," most probably as marking a place of ex- 
ercise for the practice of archery ; and thus confirming some of the 
preceding remarks respecting the early state of the burgh. With- 

RENFREW. B 



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18 RENFREWSHIRE. 

in the domains of Renfield, now usually called Blythswood, and 
not far from Inchinan bridge, is the " Argyle stone," The un- 
fortunate Earl of Argyle, who made his descent on Scotland in 
1685, had his troops scattered in Dumbartonshire, crossed the 
Clyde, and was pursuing his way towards Renfrew in disguise, 
when, after fording the Gryfe, a little way beneath the present 
Inchinan bridge, he was attacked by some militiamen, wounded, 
and taken prisoner. The Argyle stone was that on which he fell 
or probably leant, on being wounded, and which was thus, as 
tradition says, stained with his blood. It is a large block of sand- 
stone, weighing probably a couple of tons, and having perhaps some 
red veins in it, which caused many so long to believe that it re- 
tained the stain of the Earl's blood. It is now enclosed and se- 
cured against damage by the proprietor ; while it is judiciously al- 
lowed to mark the spot where the capture took place. 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers of this parish are 
in all four, — the minutes of session, the registers of marriages and 
of births and baptisms, and the sessional cash-book. The minutes 
of session begin with an account of registers and other documents, 
belonging to the session, which appear to have been lost during the 
time of the latter persecution ; or at least not to have been deliver- 
ed to the session at the Revolution settlement. This brief narra- 
tive also details some interesting particulars, respecting Mr Simp- 
son, the outed minister, and his congregation, between the Restora- 
tion and Revolution.* From 1690 to 1696, the minutes are com- 
plete; but are wanting from the latter date on to 1731. From 
this, they are regularly kept down to the present time. They extend 
in all to five volumes. The registers of births, baptisms, and mar- 
riages are kept in the same book, though in separate columns or 
pages. They begin with memoranda from 1673, but form a re- 
gular record from 1692 downwards, and are contained in four vo- 
lumes. The cash transactions of the session are recorded from 1732. 

Land-owners, — The principal heritors in the parish are, the In- 
corporation of the burgh'; Alexander Speirs, Esq. of Eldersly; Lord 
Douglas; W. M. Alexander, Esq. and others, proprietors of Walk- 

* Mr Patrick Simpson seems to have been an able, accepUble, and faithful minis- 
ter. He was outed in 1662, but continued to meet his people when allowed, down 
to 1690, and was then restored. On attaining the fiftieth year of his ministry, com- 
munion cups were presented to him as a token of respect, and they are still used in the 
parish church. I have not yet been able to ascertain whether Professor Simpson, so 
well known in the history of the church, as charged with heretical sentiments, was 
the son of Patrick ; but I find that the Professor held a farm in tfii* parUkj and that 
Patrick mentions his son's having written certain documents for Ynvaj as if he lived 
near to hint, 

4 



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RENFREW. 19 

ingshaw ; Miss Oswald of Scotstown ; James Smith, Esq. of Jor- 
danhili; and Archibald Campbell, Esq. of Blythswood. Five 
handsome mansions are on as many of the estates. Eldersly House 
is spacious, and surrounded by one of the noblest parks in this part 
of the country. Blythswood and Scotstown Houses have been more 
lately built, and are very handsome. Blythswood House and 
grounds especially, are in the best taste, and kept in a state of high 
order. Jordanhill House is on an elevated site, and commands a 
very extensive view of the whole country. The Walkingshaw 
House has not been regularly inhabited for some time, and has 
gone much into disrepair. There are few other remarkable build- 
ings in the parish. The Incorporation buildings, containing the 
jail, town-hall, and council-chambers, are convenient, but plain ; 
and the church is old, low, and uncomfortable, as well as small. 

HI. — Population. 
The rural inhabitants of this parish have doubtless partaken of 
the changes generally affecting the country; but we are not aware of 
any thing special in their case. Their farms are generally larger 
than they once were, and they are better cultivated. Their cattle 
are superior to what they were, and both the farmers and the ser- 
vants perhaps work more. But the relation between master and 
servant has, in many cases, been allowed greatly to alter, and the 
alteration has tended not a little to lessen the respectability, and 
deteriorate the moral habits of the latter. Partaking of the spirit 
of the age, many regard their meters as having a claim merely on 
their labour, and thus repudiate all moral restraint ; while, on the 
other hand, masters too often care for Uttle more. And hence the 
frequency of changeand want of cordiality between the parties. The 
circumstances of the inhabitants of the burgh have been altered still 
more. A considerable proportion of the inhabitants seem ancient- 
ly to have possessed houses and pieces of land, by which they par- 
tially supported themselves and families. The salmon-fishing also 
was at one time let only to burgesses, and the rent would, on this 
very account, be moderate. Many of the young men went also to 
sea, and became afterwards concerned with trade. From these 
different sources of income, they seem to have been on the whole 
comfortable, and holding, as a community, a somewhat respectable 
situation in society. But trade and manufactures, which have so 
enriched several places in the neighbourhood, appear to have had 
the effect of impoverishing Renfrew. Business in Glasgow and 
Paisley withdrew many of those who had a little property, and 



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20 RENFREWSHIRE. 

thus, as well as by sales, much of what formerly belonged to inba*' 
bitants of the place, has now passed into the hands of strangers. The 
nearness of the burgh to these large towns, rendered it at the same 
time convenient for muslin weavers. They therefore took the place 
of those who departed. Bams and other offices, formerly append- 
ed to the dwellings of substantial burgesses, became loom-shops. In- 
stead of a biitttaiudsibenny a single apartment was now all that could 
in general be afforded as a dwelling-house. And instead of living 
on the produce of lands, of fishings, and of trade, the greater num- 
ber of families are dependent solely on the fruits of their daily la- 
bour; which, in consequence of the long depression of this branch 
of trade, are scanty enough. The usual effects have followed, both 
morally and economically. 

The average number of births in the parish for the last seven 
years may be about 75 annually, of marriages 23, and of deaths 65. 
The number of persons at present under fifteen years of age is, 
as near as I can ascertain, 1047. 

There are only four families usually resident, possessed of con- 
siderable landed property ; and not more than perhaps one other 
has lands to the amount of L. 50 annually. There is not at pre- 
sent any insane person in the parish, but five or six are in a fatuous 
state. There is only one person blind, and none either wholly 
deaf or dumb.* 

The number of families in the parish is - - ... . 535 

chiefly employed in agriculture - - . 117 

in trade, manufactures or handicraft, 966 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture, — There are 3776 acres En^^lish measure in the 
parish. Nearly the whole is in a state of cultivation. We have 
not the means of ascertaining with precision the amount of lands 
enclosed around gentlemen's houses and under plantations. The 
latter, however, are chiefly around parks and lawns, and consist of 
beech, ash, elm lime, oak, larch, spruce, birch, horse-chestnut, &c. 
with a variety of shrubs and evergreens, such as the bay laurel, 
Portugal laurel, lauristinus, &c. all of which thrive, when properly 
sheltered. There is no undivided common in the parish, but there 

* When reseating the church in 1821, a large quantity of earth was dug out of 
the floor, and with it many bones ; some of which were unusually large. To prove 
this, thigh bones were laid alongside the thigh of living men about six feet high, and the 
mere bones were said to exceed in length the living limb with all its integuments. One 
of the largest hats which oould be found, was alw too small to draw over some of the 
crania. We state these facts as reported by credible witnesses, but without venturing 
to infer any thing as to the generid size of the ancient inhabitants. 



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HENFREW. 21 

cannot be fewer than 100 acres in small properties around the 
burgh. Upwards of seventy acres are on the south side, and di- 
vided into twenty-two separate properties ; the marches being de- 
pendent on the turning of the furrow, year after year. This mode 
of cultivation is no doubt unfavourable to the amount of produce 
and agricultural improvement ; but is, on the other hand, highly 
favourable to habits of industry, economy, and morality. Fami- 
lies possessing even single acres of land have, in consequence, a 
certain standing in society, which they naturally seek to maintain. 
They have labour to occupy their spare hours, and virtuous cares 
giving a direction to their thoughts. Hence they generally suc- 
ceed in laying up some little stock beyond their daily earnings. 

Rent of Land. — The average rent over the whole parish is pro- 
bably from L. 2, l.Os. to L. 2, 15s. per acre. On several estates, the 
principle of a grain rent has been adopted ; the price of agiven quan- 
tity of wheat being usually the rent per acre ; and this principle seems 
to be approved of by the farmers. To a disinterested observer it 
seems preferable for both parties. For, as the farmer cannot long 
pay an old rent with falling markets, the proprietor must, in these 
circumstances, suffer loss, be the conditions what they may ; and 
yet he can have no claim for an advance of money rents, however 
much the markets may improve ; while with a grain rent he has 
the chance of profit as well as the risk of loss ; and farming itself 
is thus rid of half its cares. At the same timCf it would doubtless 
be an improvement to include more than one staple commodity. 
If, in such a district as this, the price of a boll of wheat, a boll of 
oats, and a stone of butter, were substituted for their value in 
money, the farmer would be but little dependent on the fluctuations 
of the market The rent for grazing in this parish is not usual- 
ly paid per head, but either per acre, or so much for an entire field ; 
the grass being chiefly around gentlemen's seats ; and may be esti- 
mated at an average of L. 3, 10s. or L. 4 per acre.* 

Rates of Wages. — The wages of steady and able labourers are 
from 10s. to 12s. per week. Men servants are hired for from L. 7 
to L. 11 in the half-year, with bed and board; and females for 
L. 3 and upwards to L. 5, and L. 5, 10s. The common wages for 
journeymen masons are from 18s. to 20s. per week; for wrights 
from 15s. to 18s. ; and for smiths about 18s. ^ 

* A large herd of cows feed on an extensive meadow, belonging to the oorporation, 
at so much per bead ; but the rate is beneath the actual value, and may vary from 
time to time: and besides, the privilege is confined to burgesses. 



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22 UENFREWSHIRE. 

Live Stock. — The common breed of dairy cows in this parish is 
the Ayrshire, — only they are considerably heavier than in most parts 
of Ayrshire. And to prevent their becoming too heavy, they are 
very commonly allowed to go into calf during the Second year. 
The sheep and bullocks are for the most part from the west High- 
lands, but various, as being often the property of Glasgow butchers, 
and consisting of such as are brought into their market. And 
working horses arc, in consequence of our vicinity to the large 
towns, also various; but they are generally of the Clydesdale breed, 
or some of its crosses- 

Husbandri/. — One of the chief improvements in agriculture, now 
occupying attention, is furrow-draining ; which, from the want of 
stones, is executed chiefly with tiles. In heavy and rather wet 
lands, it costs about six guineas per acre, and has been found 
to pay the entire outlay in two crops. It is accordingly going for- 
ward, in nearly all the farms in this parish. The most common way of 
meeting the expense is for the proprietor to pay the outlay, and 
the farmer to pay a per centage, during his lease. The most com- 
mon manure, in addition to stable and byre dung, is " Soapers* 
waste," which is largely used in the light soils. It costs 5s. per 
ton in Paisley, and from 7s. to 73. 6d. when laid on a great 
part of the land. It is valued, particularly on account of its 
giving adhesion to loose soils. This special end might perhaps 
be more cheaply served by pulverized clay. Large masses of 
very adhesive clay exist in the centre of our light soils. Suppose 
it to be raised towards the end of summer, dried and pounded if 
necessary, with mallets, and laid on stubble or old pasture about 
to be broken up, at the rate of 30 or 40 carts an acre, — it would 
during winter amalgamate with the lighter soils, and give them 
next season increased adhesiveness at comparatively small expense. 
Let the same be repeated at the end of each rotation, for five or 
six times, and the eflFect would probably be permanently to improve 
the general character of the soil. The implements of husbandry 
are the same here as in the neighbouring parishes; in some of 
which they will probably be described. Comparing our farm stead- 
ings with those in other parts of the country, they hold a middle 
place. They are decidedly inferior to those in the Lothians and 
other districts, where the farms are very large ; but are at least 
equal to those in the neighbouring parishes, and throughout this 
district. Some of the farms here extend to perhaps about 
200 acres, all arable ; and some do not exceed 40 or 50 ; but 



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RENFREW. 2a 

they generally run from 60 up to 100. Several farms around 
the burgh are made up of separate fields, possessed or taken 
from different proprietors; the farmers having their establish- 
ments within the burgh. The leases of large farms are commonly 
nineteen years, but in this there is considerable variety, especial- 
ly in farms made up as those last referred to. The common 
rotation is, first, some kind of green crop, then wheat, then hay 
and clover, then oats, perhaps, and the same rotation over ; or 
the second crop^of hay is pastured upon, and the land is allowed 
to rest. 

Manufactures, — The manufactures in this parish are various, 
though not extensive. The first and most important is the mus- 
lin weaving. Connected with this branch, there are 257 looms, 
of which 176 are called harnessed looms. Each of the whole oc- 
cupies one man, — except a few, which are wrought by women ; and 
every two occupy one woman winding yarn. But in addition to 
these, every harnessed loom requires the assistance of a boy or 
girl, from seven or eight years of age, up to probably fourteen or 
fifteen. There are thus, 257 weavers, 176 children drawing, and 
at least 128 women winding, — making in all 561. Weavers' wages 
vary not only with changes in trade, but also according to the dif- 
ferent branches of work in which they are employed. But taking 
an average of the whole, their earnings are believed not to exceed 
perhaps 8s. or 10s. per week ; all deductions being made. The 
children employed in drawing earn from Is. 6d to 2s. 6d. per 
week, and winders do not probably realize more than 2s. Be- 
sides those who are thus immediately connected with the weav- 
ing, a considerable number of females are employed with clip- 
ping, tambouring, and flowering. They bring their webs from 
Glasgow and Paisley, and work in their own houses ; their earnings 
being probably very much in the proportion of those already de- 
scribed. Though these different employments are generally free 
from any thing noxious to health, they are all sedentary and long- 
continued, usually from six o'clock in the morning till ten o'clock at 
night. The practice of employing children at drawing is, on various 
accounts, objectionable. Parents are induced to send their children 
to this employment generally about seven or eight years of age, thus 
arresting their progress in education, when they have but well 
begun. They endeavour afterwards to pick up a little at evening 
classes, but their hours of labour are too extended to admit of this 
without oppression : their having been employed in this line from 



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24 RENFREWSHIRE. 

childhood, virtually shuts up the boys to the single occupation of 
weaving, in after life. They pass with ease and at little expense, 
from the employment of drawing to that of weaving. The trade 
is thus kept overstocked with hands, and wages continue, on this 
as well as on other accounts, depressed, so that the very poverty 
of the weaver perpetuates some of the causes of his distress. But 
the employment of children in drawing is morally objectionable* 
Listening, as they do, to all that is said, often by the irreligious 
and profane, and placed as they are under the ai^hority of these 
very masters, it is not wonderful that their own language and after 
conduct should, in many cases, be tainted with what is unbecom- 
ing. We recollect being told by a gentleman holding a high and 
responsible situation in one of the large manufacturing towns, that 
he had himself been a draw-boy ; and that he now almost shudder- 
ed to look back on what he recollected of his situation. 

Next to the weaving and its kindred branches is the bleaching. 
There is only one bleachfield in the parish, which is in the burgh, 
and employs 12 men and 90 women and girls. The men earn 
from 9s. to 16s. per week, the women and girls from 3s. to 7s. 
Their employment, however, is not constant, and they have to 
work in apartments too much heated to be very healthy. It may 
be proper here to mention a very laudable and advantageous prac- 
tice common among females, usually employed with manufac- 
tures during the greater part of the year: in summer and au- 
tumn, a considerable number lay aside their needles and other im- 
plements of manufactures, and hire themselves to the farmers in 
the neighbourhood, at potato planting, hay-making, hoeing and 
weeding, and latterly at reaping, digging potatoes and raising tur- 
nips. This change of employment is beneficial to health, profi- 
table to the labourers, and convenient to the farmers ; and ought 
farther to be encouraged, as productive of intercourse and kindly 
feelings between different classes of the community. 

There is a manufactory of starch in the burgh ; but it employs 
only two or three men. The starch itself is chiefly used in the 
bleachfields. 

A tile-work was set agoing two or three years ago, about a mile 
south of the burgh. The tiles made are for draining land, and 
are of various sizes, according to the kind of drain they are to oc- 
cupy. They consist of soles and covers ; the former being flat, 
like flooring tile, and the latter formed archwise, the rounded 
side being kept up. This work employs about half a dozen men, 
and nearly the same number of children. 



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RENFREW. 25 

The Trust on the river Clyde have their chief establishment 
in this parish. They occupy about 15 men ashore. These are 
employed as smiths, hammermen, carpenters, wrights, and sawyers, 
earning from 12s. to L. 1 per week. During summer they occupy 
about 36 men aboard of their vessels. These are partly engineers 
and others in special trust ; but chiefly labourers or puntmen, who 
earn 15s. per week. There are also, perhaps, 80 men employed 
ashore, in connection with the punts and dredging-machines ; but 
these move from place to place along the river. A considerable pro- 
portion of the whole, and especially of the two former classes, live 
within this parish. 

Near the river Trust establishment there is, and has long been, 
a distillery, manufacturing whisky from malt, made partly from bar- 
ley, and partly from bear or bigg, dried with peat. The annual 
produce of this distillery may be estimated at 140,000 gallons. 
About 22 men are constantly employed here, receiving from 12s. 
to 16s. per week of wages. Connected with the distillery, there is 
a large dairy, consisting of about 100 milch cows. During winter 
they are fed on turnips, draff, &c ; and in summer they are pas- 
tured. The produce is chiefly sent to Glasgow. This employs five 
men, three dairy maids, and four milkers. 

The coal-works before described employ between 30 and 40 men 
and boys under ground, and several on the hill ; and a considerable 
number of men and horses find work in carrying the coal. A col- 
lier's wages probably average from 15s. to Ids. per week, when he is 
regularly employed; but there are many interruptions and particular 
expenses to which he is incident ; and the employment itself is 
neither agreeable nor healthy. Speaking of the colliers in this pa- 
rish, it is proper to mention, that they are, with a few exceptions, 
not inattentive to divine ordinances, and decent in moral conduct ; 
and that one of them is a worthy and estimable member of the 
kirk-session. 

Navigaiion. — Tliis burgh once occupied a much more import- 
ant place in respect of navigation than it does at present. In the 
charter of 1644, it is described as the principal sea-port on the 
river : and it continued to have a little trade within the recollection 
of some now living. At present, there are no vessels belonging to 
Renfrew, except such as carry coals, manure, &c on the river. 
A considerable number of vessels, however, load and unload at the 
harbour. Those discharging are chiefly laden with grain from Ire- 
land, and dye-stuffs, &c. for Paisley. Potatoes also, and fish, &c. are 



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26 RENPBEWSIIIRE. 

sometimes brought from the Highlands. At other times potatoes, 
&C. are shipped here. A commodious quay was built last year, at 
an expense of about L. 800, and the harbour is still susceptible 
of important improvements. As the quay runs chiefly along the 
canal, it might, at comparatively small expense, have also the ad- 
vantage of a wet docL Let the canal be widened and the qiiay 
extended, and a flood-gate thrown across the mouth of the for- 
mer, and vessels might be dischai^ed without the agitation of even 
a steamer's surge. And from the width and openness of the river 
below this, sailing vessels would be generally able to come up with- 
out the aid of any dragger. 

V. — Parochial Economt. 
Trade and Meam of Communication, — Renfrew, though a coun- 
ty town, has no regular market, except fairs, which are chiefly for 
cattle; the principal market-towns in the neighbourhood being 
Glasgow and Paisley. The former of these is little more than four 
miles from the nearest extremity of the parish, and the latter 
scarcely a mile and a-half. The means of communication with other 
parts of the country are very abundant. As the Clyde passes through 
the parish, we have the advantage of nearly all the steamers to and 
from Glasgow. During five days of the week, we have a daily 
coach to Glasgow ; and during summer, another goes to Paisley 
six or seven times a-day. In addition to these, we have three car- 
riers to Glasgow, and two foot-runners to Paisley. Those who live 
on the north side of the river have not so many opportunities, yet 
they also have considerable means of intercourse. Our post-office 
is a sub-office to Paisley, and we have two arrivals from Paisley, 
and one by the Dumbarton post, on the north side of the river. Few 
parishes are so much intersected with roads and rivers. TWo public 
roads run parallel to each other on the two sides of the Clyde, — the 
one, the old Glasgow and Greenock road, and the other, the Glas- 
gow and Dumbarton road. The former runs about a mile and a-half 
in the parish, and the other about two and a-half. These are chiefly 
from east to west. Another public road runs from Paisley north- 
wards, crossing the former of these in Renfrew, proceeding to the 
ferry, and thence to the Dumbarton road; extending to about 
two miles within the parish. Another proceeds north and north- 
east from the Dumbarton road to the north-west extremity of the 
parish, and extending perhaps to about a mile and a-half. A fifth, 
of about the same extent, runs from Inchinan Bridge southwards 
towards Paisley; and a sixth crosses the south-west extremity, 
running about half a-mile within the parish. A railway has also 



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RENFREW. 27 

been commenced between the Clyde near Renfrew Ferry and the 
town of Paisley. The only considerable bridges connected with 
the parish are two, — the Barnsford Bridge, which is thrown 
across the Gryfe and Black Cart, immediately after their junction, 
and the Inchinan Bridge, which is thrown across this united stream 
and the White Cart, immediately above their confluence. This last 
consists properly of two bridges united ; the one spanning the White 
Cart, and the other the Gryfe, but both resting on the point of land 
which separates these two rivers. A timber drawbridge crosses the 
canal before noticed, as running alongside the White Cart 

Ecclesiastical State, — From the irregular form of the parish, no 
place would be in all respects convenient to the whole population, 
and the present site of the church is in the circumstances as suit- 
able as any that could be selected. The greatest distance which 
parishioners have to come to church is about three miles, — but 
with the inconvenience of having a river to cross ; and it ought 
to be mentioned, that the town -council allow an abatement of rent, 
so as to permit the labouring classes on the north side to cross 
the ferry, on the Lord's day, gratis. It does not indeed appear, 
that it was ever the practice to charge parishioners any fare on 
Sabbath for coming to church, beyond what is levied on the farms 
in produce. The great bulk of the population, however, are in and 
around the burgh, to whom, therefore, the situation of the church 
is all they could wish. The present church was at least repaired, 
and had an aisle added in 1726 ; but whether it was then wholly 
rebuilt, we have not been able distinctly to ascertain. It has under- 
gone various alterations, and in 1821 was wholly reseated. In order 
to gain a greater elevation of ceiling, a large quantity of earth was 
at the same time removed out of the floor, which is now about two feet 
under the level of the soil around the church. On this and on other 
accounts it is damp and uncomfortable. It contains about 760 
sittings, — a number under the legal provision for the parish- 
ioners, and greatly short of the amount actually required. To 
meet this, as well as otherwise to promote the spiritual improve- 
ment of the parish, a separate service has been for several years 
conducted at eight o'clock every Sabbath morning. 

The manse was built in 1790; but was repaired and the oflices 
rebuilt in 1831. The glebe is wholly separate from the manse, 
and is divided into two portions, the larger being at a considerable 
distance. The whole amounts to upwards of twenty-one Scotch acres : 
but the greater part consists of inferior land, which was obtained 
by excambion, for the legal amount of rich land near the burgh. 



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28 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Now that it has been fenced, drained, and improved, the whole 
is probably worth about L. 50 a-year. The stipend is 18 chal- 
ders, half meal and half barley. 

The former ministers of this parish whose names we have as- 
certained, were the following : — Mr Andrew Hay, inducted in 1576; 
Mr John Hay, in 1602. Mr Jphn Hay appears to have been suc- 
ceeded by a son of the same name, who is described as Parson of 
Renfrew, in 1632. The Hays possessed property in the parish, 
and were Episcopalians. Mr John Hay Jun., appears to have been 
removed from his charge, and was succeeded in 1650, by Mr John 
Maule, who was a Presbyterian. And he was succeeded by Mr 
Patrick Simpson in 1653, who was outed in 1662, when Mr John 
Hay was readmitted. He was succeeded by Mr Francis Ross ; 
and he again by Mr Robert Douglas, the dates of the admission 
of the two latter being unknown. These two latter, as well as 
Mr Hay, were probably Episcopalians, and made but little im- 
pression on the parish; for after the indulgence, Mr Simpson, 
the outed minister, and his people met, in what he calls a ^^ meet- 
ing-house," and carried on the discipline of the parish, much in 
the same way as before. In 1690 Mr Simpson was readmitted, 
and died in 1715. In 1716, Mr Neil Campbell was translated 
from Roseneath, and in 1728» was again translated to be Princi- 
pal of the University of Glasgow. Mr M'Diarmid of Ayr was 
now presented by the Crown, but rejected by a majority of quali- 
fied parishioners. This case went the round of the church courts, 
and at last, after a vacancy of nearly two years, the Crown present- 
ed Mr Robert Paton, minister of Haddington. In 1731, he was 
translated thither from Haddington, and died in 1768. In 1769, 
Mr Colin Campbell, son of the above Mr Neil Campbell, was 
translated from Kilmarnock, and died in 1788. In 1790, Mr 
Thomas Burns was translated from Inchinan, and died in May 
1830 ; and the compiler of this account was translated from An- 
derston Chapel, Glasgow, and inducted here on the 30th of No- 
vember 1830. There is no regular place of worship in the parish, 
except the Established church, to which the great body of the pa- 
rishioners profess to adhere. 

Religious Societies^ 8fc. — There are not many religious and philan- 
thropic societies in the parish ; but the ends which these usually 
contemplate are not wholly neglected. As we have no assess- 
ment for the poor, considerable exertions have to be made on their 
behalf. There is also a Female Benevolent Society, the mem- 
bers of which endeavour to aid special cases of distress. A Bible 



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RENFREW. 29 

Society also exists, for the supply of the parish, and which has 
hitherto done well. The leading principle of the society is to af- 
ford facilities for the purchase of Bibles. This is accomplished 
by having on hand an assortmentof Bibles at different prices, bound 
in the most efficient and tasteful manner, and offered unreservedly 
to all, while the price may be advanced by instalments. This re- 
moves entirely the idea of pauper terms and pauper Bibles, and 
yet allows to the poor, as well as the rich, full access to the Word 
of God. And they have hitherto justified the confidence put in 
them ; few, indeed, having expressed any unwillingness to pay for 
what they were to receive. The consequence is, almost every 
child who can read has either a Bible or Testament. — A consi- 
derable sum is also raised for purposes of education and for libra- 
ries. There are particularly two schools of industry dependent 
in part on subscriptions, one of which from its extent, as well as 
proper management, has proved a very great blessing to many. Our 
Sabbath schools are numerous, and are furnished with juvenile li- 
braries, the expenses of which are met by collections and donations. 
We have also a parish library ; partly dependent on similar resources. 
But beyond these and other parochial institutions, we have no or- 
ganized associations ; and we assist other objects only by collec- 
tions and individual subscriptions. 

Education. — There are six week-day schools in this parish, and 
these are attended by about 327 day scholars, and 90 evening scho- 
lars ; thus leaving little more than one-ninth of the population at 
school during day, and somewhat more than one-seventh when 
eveuing scholars are included. The burgh grammar-school is en- 
dowed to the extent of L. 36, 13s. 4d. a-year. The teacher of a 
district school has a limited allowance ; but this is by private ar- 
rangement, and the expense is met chiefly by an individual heri- 
tor. One of the teachers in the burgh has the school-room free, 
but even this is, we believe, by subscription, and another is wholly 
unaided. In addition to these, there are, as already noticed, two 
schools of industry for girls. The teacher of one of these has a 
salary without fees ; but this is made up out of subscriptions and the 
produce of the school; and the other has afew pounds from the town- 
. council, and the produce of her school. The branches taught in 
these different schools are numerous, embracing all the usual depart- 
ments of school education, and they are on the whole well taught. In 
all of them the children are made acquainted with the Scriptures 
and the Shorter Catechism ; and in most of them they are well 



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30 RENFREWSHIRE. 

instructed in the meaning of what they read. In several, but 
especially the grammar-school, they are trained to a degree of 
expertness in processes of mental arithmetic which usually asto- 
nishes observers ; and in this, as well as most of the others, they 
are taught to read intelligently and accurately. There are neverthe- 
less several manifest defects in our school education. The schools 
are all in a great measure promiscuous. Each teacher has too 
many classes to attend to, and too many branches to be taught 
successfully. Then the teachers themselves are miserably paid, 
and are thus forced to multiply their classes as a means of living. 
The same number of teachers would, with properly assorted 
classes, do double the work ; and promote education to the same 
extent. But it is morally impossible that teachers, mainly depen- 
dent on fees, can ever in such a place as this attain to a due division 
of labour. Then the early removal of the children to work is con- 
tinually thwarting and discouraging them. Should it ever happen 
that the proper means shall be allowed for raising our grammar- 
school to the proper rank of a grammar-school, three teachers 
ought to be appointed — one for English grammar, French, Latin, 
and Greek — another for writing, arithmetic, mathematics, geogra- 
phy, &c. and a third for English reading alone. This would do 
much for the interests of the burgh, and of the parish at large, and 
is perhaps not more than might be expected, seeing there is no pa- 
rochial school in the parish, and that something of the kind was 
originally contemplated in the charters granted to the burgh. School 
wages are so low as from 2s. to 3s. a quarter for reading, some- 
thing being added for extra branches. Only a few who are natives 
of the parish, and above six years of age, are wholly unable to read; 
and such as are known to be in these circumstances are in the 
course of being instructed. As in other parishes, the children of 
the destitute poor are instructed at the expense of the session. 
The number of children attending Sabbath schools is about 390, 
besides p. class of young adults, instructed by the minister of the 
parish, and amounting to about 60. The Sabbath schools are taught 
by about 40 teachers, — the boys being chiefly taught by males, and 
the girls by females. Most of the children attending Sabbath 
schools within burgh attend religious worship during the morning . 
and forenoon services, and part of them also in the afternoon. 
They are for the most part taught according to a uniform system, 
which embraces the morning service as an exercise. 

Literature. — There is a parish library, from which parishioners 
are allowed to read, at the rate of 2s. pe.r annum, for one volume 



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RENFREW. 31 

at a time ; and there is another subscription library in the burgh, 
ivhich has long existed. There is no school of arts or mechanics^ 
institution ; but an association is in progress of being formed for 
the cultivation of natural history and the useful arts. A news-room 
is also maintained for the convenience of burgesses and strangers. 
Benefit Societies. — These are numerous, atnounting to at least seven 
in the burgh. Some of them provide for widows ; but they are chiefly 
for cases of personal inability to work ; they have frequently failed 
to implement their conditions, the aliments fixed being generally 
too high for the subscriptions. Some of them, however, are, we * 
understand, doing well. One of these, the " Sailors* Society," 
is said to have existed in the fourteenth century, and is possessed 
of considerable property ; but its income has been dependent on 
other sources than subscriptions. Several societies also exist for 
furnishing mortcloths, mort-safes, &c. It is at present a matter of 
consideration, in the parish, whether to attempt establishing a sav- 
ings bank; the chief hinderance being the pre-existence of so many 
benefit societies, that would probably suffer by the withdrawal of 
funds. 

Poor's funds* — A considerable sum of money was long held by 
the kirk-session for behoof of the poor. But for many years, the 
expenditure has so exceeded the income as greatly to reduce the 
stock ; and for the last two years a voluntary assessment has been 
agreed to among the heritors, for the annual deficiency. In ad- 
dition to the collections, there is only one mortification, amount- 
ing to about L.60, — the interest of which is available, and only 
a few pounds of interest from the remaining stock; there are 
no dues connected with mortcloths or ecclesiastical observances 
paid into the poor's funds. In addition to the ordinary and sa- 
cramental collections, there is a special collection every year, to 
which non-resident heritors also contribute. The amount thus 
raised in 1834, including interest, as above stated, was about 
L. 147, and the expenditure L. 212 ; leaving a deficiency of L. 65. 
The number of poor regularly alimented is about 50, and the num- 
ber who receive occasional aid about as many more. The most 
common aliment to aged persons able to do a little, and without 
children, is 4s. per month. But in addition to this, even the aji- 
mented poor receive a few shillings on sacramental occasions, and 
at the beginning of winter. What is desirable under this head 
is enlarged church accommodation, and the moral cultivation of 
the parish, which are alone adequate, fairly to meet the wants, and 
promote the happiness of the poor. 



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32 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Prison.— The number of prisoners confined here, and connect- 
ed with this district, does not amount to half a dozen in a year, 
and they are nearly all debtors. A few others come here from 
other places. The apariments are well aired, and by no means 
unhealthy ; and, with regard to religious instruction, the period 
of incarceration b usually too short, to make this any matter of 
anxiety. 

FairSf Public Houses^ 8^c. — There are three fairs held in the 
burgh annually, chiefly for the sale of cattle ; and an attempt has 
lately been made, to get up a cattle show, which is likely to suc- 
ceed. The number of public houses in the parish has been for 
several years about 30. They are, especially in this place, pro- 
ductive of evil, from the immense number who frequent them 
on the Lord's day, chiefly from Glasgow and Paisley, particu- 
larly the latter. Some of those who sell spirits are, with cre- 
dit to themselves, particularly attentive in preventing abuse; 
a few of them shutting their houses entirely on Sabbath. And 
the present magistrates have very laudably enforced the obser- 
vance of the licensing act, on Saturday night and during di- 
vine service on the Lord's day. But still, abuses connected with 
public houses, and especially on the Lord's day, are among the 
chief hinderances to the moral and religious improvement of the 
parish. And there can be: no reasonable doubt, that the use of 
ardent spirits over the country is at present one of the greatest 
prevailing evils, economically, morally, and religiously. It is dif- 
ficult to say by what single means the evil may be remedied. 
But if the nation at large were only in earnest, perhaps few of 
the means which have been proposed would either remain untried, 
or prove uninfluential. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
On comparing the present state of the parish with that which 
existed when the last Statistical Account was drawn up, forty years 
ago, the following results appear : 

Population in 1791, 1628; in 1835, 2883. 
Looms in 1791, 120; in 1835, 257. 
Labourers* wages in 1791, Is. 6d. per day ; in 1835, 2s. 
Men>serTant*8 fees in 1791, L. 5 in the half year ; in 1835, L. 7 to L. II. 
Manure per, ton in 1791, 2s. 6d : in 1835, 5s. 
Peck of meal in 1791, Is. ; in 1835, Is. to Is. 3d. 
Peck of potatoes in 1791, 8d. ; in 1835, 7d. to 8d. 
Land per acre in 1791, generally L. 2 ; in 1835, L. 2, !0s. or L. 2, l5s. 
Chief crops in 1791, oats, barley, wheat, and potatoes ; in 1835, Potatoes and turnips, 
wheat, beans, hay and clover. 

January 1836. 

3 



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PARISH OF EASTWOOD OR POLLOCK. 

PRESBYTERY OF PAISLEY, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. GEORGE LOGAN, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History, 
Name, — Eastwood is the name by which this parish has been 
long known, — a name obviously derived from the woods that ex- 
ist in it, one of which, of large extent, covering more than 200 
acres, has within these twenty-five years been rooted out, and 
the ground converted into arable land. The parish appears like- 
wise to have had at one time the name of Pollock. This is ascer- 
tained by many written documents, in which it is mentioned as for- 
merly called Pollock, but then called Eastwood. The ancestors of 
Sir John Maxwell have for several centuries been the principal 
heritors of the parish ; and that family has been celebrated for at- 
tachment and devotion to the Church of Scotland, in the cause of 
which they suffered much during the reigns of Charles 11. and 
James VIL There can be no doubt, therefore, of its having got 
the name of Pollock from that of the lands of which it is chiefly com- 
posed; and by that name the family of Pollock wish the parish again 
to be called. 

Extent^ Boundaries, — The greatest length of this parish from 
north to south is 4 miles, and its greatest breadth from east to 
west about d miles ; but its form is very irregular, so that its di- 
mensions vary greatly in different parts. The medium may be 3 
by 2\ miles, comprehending about 7^ square miles. It is bound- 
ed on the east by the parishes of Cathcart and Mearns ; on the 
south by the parish of Mearns ; on the west by the parish of Neil- 
stou ; and on the north by the Abbey parish of Paisley and the 
parish of Govan ; while it approaches on the north side within three 
miles of the city of Glasgow. On the west side, a considerable ex- 
tent of land, held to be in the Abbey parish of Paisley, projects 
into and is almost surrounded by the parish of Eastwood. It ap- 
pears from the records of the Presbytery of Paisley, 24th January 
1650, that this land was annexed to Eastwood by decreet of the 

RENFREW. C 



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34 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Commission for Plantation of Kirks ; but that decreet has not hi- 
therto taken effect in practice. 

Topographical Appearances, — There are no mountains in the 
parish ; but it has an undulating surface throughout, with many 
gentle swells or hills, and flat lands or valleys of various shapes and 
sizes, and in many places intersected with streams, — so that the 
whole has a very beautiful and picturesque appearance. At the 
southern extremity, where the parish joins the Mearns, there is a 
continued range of hills sloping to the south and north. The ac- 
clivities of the hills vary from one in ten to one in twenty : the 
greatest height is about 300 feet ; and the least, about 30 feet 
above the level of the sea. The general slope is from the south- 
cast to the north-west. 

Hydrography. — The White Cart is the only water in the pa- 
rish that can be called a river. It runs about four miles, either 
through the parish, or as the boundary with Cathcart and the 
Abbey parish of Paisley. Its source is in Eaglesham moors, and 
after passing through the parishes of Eaglesham, East Kilbride, 
Mearns, Carmurinock, Eastwood, Abbey of Paisley, and Inchinnan, 
it joins the river Clyde about seven miles below Glasgow. No part 
of it is navigable till it reaches Paisley. The bed of the river has 
been deepened below that town, and the navigation to the Clyde 
completed by a short cut or canal. There are, besides the Cart, 
two smaller streams, Auldhouse Burn and Brock Burn. The for- 
mer issues from an extensive lake in the parish of Mearns, called 
the Brother Loch, and joins the river Cart at Pollockshaws. The 
latter rises also in'the Mearns, and joins the water of Levern at the 
western extremity of the parish ; and thence, as well as farther up 
the stream, the Levern is the boundary between Eastwood and the 
Abbey parish of Paisley, until it joins the river Cart near Cruick- 
ston Castle. — There are no springs in the parish of any note, if we 
except one in the glebe, which discharges about eleven impe- 
rial pints every minute. It is perennial, and seems to be affected 
neither by drought nor rain. There were several springs of the 
same kind in the neighbouring fields, but they have all been drain- 
ed off into the adjoining burn. 

Geology and Mineralogy, — The direction or dip of the strata, 
where they are lying fair, is from the north-west to the south-east. 
The inclination of the beds varies from one in six to one in ten. No 
dikesare met with; but frequent derangements of the strata occur, by 
slips or fissures which displace the beds less or more, and sometimes 



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EASTWOOD. 35 

to the extent of 1 00 feet, from their positions. The direction of these 
slips is generally from dip to rise, — although there is one very dis- 
tinct instance in the parish of derangements both across and in the 
line of the strata, whereby a lime rock is thrown up and down, and 
appears and disappears in a variety of places for the space of near- 
ly two miles along the ordinary line of dip and rise, and for about 
half a-mile in the opposite direction, or on the ordinary level of the 
metals. The rock here alluded to is known by the name of Arden 
lime. It appears on the surface at Davieland, near the eastern ex- 
tremity of the parish, and also at the western extremity at Dam- 
ley Bridge, and Damley Bleachfield, and at several intermediate 
places. 

The rocks of this parish are sandstone and limestone, with nu- 
merous bands of ironstone. The first and last are found every- 
where, by sinking pits ; and the sandstone makes its appearance on 
the surface in many places. 

In the barony of Eastwood, properly so called, there is a quarry 
of a very peculiar description. The rock is 50 feet deep, and lies 
in horizontal strata, the beds varying in thickness from 2 inches to 
2 feet. The general dip or inclination is to the south-east. There 
is betwixt each bed a thin layer of what resembles fire clay; and the 
face of the rock has very much the appearance of a wall built by 
the hand of man. The stone is of excellent quality, is easily 
wrought, and can be cut to any size of length or breadth that may 
be required. It is used for all parts of house-work, but is peculiar- 
ly adapted for pavement, stair steps, and hearths, and can be wrought 
into cisterns of any dimensions for holding bleaching liquors, &c. 
It has been discovered only within these four or five years, and is 
considered by judges to be a great natural curiosity, and one of the 
finest lying fields of rock in the country. There is another valu- 
able quarry about a quarter of a mile from the former. It is, what 
is technically termed, a liver rock, and the depth of it is 24 feet. 
It is of the finest quality, and is used for every purpose of masonry 
in house-building of the first description in Glasgow and the neigh- 
bourhood. It is much admired by sculptors, as well adapted for 
making fancy figures of any kind or size. There is a third quarry 
in the neighbourhood of this, in the farm of Giffnock, which is of 
the same quality with the latter, and for which there has been long 
a great demand. The number of quarriers employed in the first 
and second of these is thirty, with twenty labourers. They work ten 



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36 RENFREWSHIRE. 

hours each day, and six days per week. The wages of the former 
are, 2s. 6d., and of the latter, 2s. per day. 

Limestone has been wrought at Arden and Darnley, and also 
at Cowglen. It is still wrought at the first mentioned place, 
though on a limited scale, the lime being of so poor a quality as 
not to admit of any sand in building. But its physical character 
is such as that it very soon becomes almost as impenetrable as the 
solid stone. It is used chiefly for the rough-casting of houses. 
Its component parts when analyzed have been found to be, 78 per 
cent, lime, 13 sand, 6 iron, and 3 clay. The thickness is 9 feet 
6 inches ; but only 3 feet 6 inches at the bottom are burned. 
The other beds are considered to be of so poor a quality as to be 
imfit for lime, and are laid aside for roads. The lime at Cowglen 
resembles that at Arden, but it is not the same stratum. It is 
five feet thick^ and consists of four distinct beds, some of which 
produce lime of a pure white, and others of a blue colour. 

Coal is wrought in the parish at Cowglen, where there is a great 
number of seams of various thickness ; but none exceeding 2 feet 
6 inches. The whole are of good quality ; and five of them have 
been wrought, and are still in working in pits varying from 10 to 
40 fathoms in depth. The works are carried on in the usual 
manner, by leaving about one-fourth part of the coal in pillars for 
supporting the superincumbent strata. 

Soil — The soil is various. On the south side and the higher 
grounds, it is generally a thin earth, with what is called a till bot- 
tom, — till being a mixture of stone and heavy clay, hard and re- 
tentive of moisture. But there are likewise on the banks of the 
Cart, and the burns or rivulets, various holms of considerable ex- 
tent, and very fertile. 

11. — Civil History. 

So far as consists with the knowledge of the writer, there is no 

ancient or modem history of the parish printed or in manuscript ; 

and, though the different proprietors have no doubt plans of their 

" several estates, there are no general maps, plans, or surveys of the 

parish. 

In the possession of the family of Polloc, there are several ori- 
ginal papers of considerable antiquity, which deserve attention. 
Among the chief of these are the following : — A precept from the 
Lords of Council of King James V. to meet his Queen when she 
came first to Scotland, dated 1527; a letter from the Regent- Queen 



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EASTWOOD. 37 

Mary, 1559 ; a letter from Lord Morton, and others, anent the 
murder of the King, 1567 ; a letter from Queen Mary before 
the battle of Langside; a letter from King James VI. for a 
hackney to the Queen, 1590 ; another for provision to the 
Prince's baptism, 1594 ; and the original, with the subscriptions, 
of the first Solemn League, signed by the King and Council, 1587. 
The letter from King James for provision for the Prince's baptism 
is a great curiosity, and deserves to be made public, as afifording a 
singular picture of "the times. The original of the Solemn League 
is written with great distinctness and beauty, in a character re- 
sembling Italic print, and can be read with as great facility as the 
most modern writings. 

There have been in this parish since the Revolution seveji mi- 
nisters, including the present incumbent It is singular that two 
of these, viz. Messrs Crawford and Wodrow, have written histories 
of the Church of Scotland. The latter was born in Glasgow about 
the year 1680, and died in 1734. 

Eminent Men. — Mr Wodrow was a man not only of great worth 
and usefulness as a minister, but of extraordinary industry and ap- 
plication to researches connected with the antiquities of Scotland. 
He wrote a great deal, and employed himself, particularly during the 
last years of his life, in writing the lives of the principal learned men 
of Scotland who lived previous to the restoration of the Stewarts. 
Some of his manuscripts are preserved in the Library of the Fa- 
culty of Advocates; some, in the repositories of the Church; and 
some are still in the hands of his descendants. His great work is 
the History of the Church during the period of the Persecution. 
It commences with the Restoration and ends with the glorious Re- 
volution, and the accession of William and Mary to the throne of 
these realms. For many years it lay in a great measure neglect- 
ed ; but Mr Fox having given a high character of it in his history, 
it was brought into public notice. All the copies were quickly 
bought up, and a new and elegant edition, in four volumes octavo, 
has been edited by Dr Burns of Paisley. 

Mr Crawford's church history has never been published, but the 
manuscript is among the records of the church. It consists of two 
volumes folio, and contains upwards of 1400 pages. It commences 
with the introduction of Christianity into Scotland, and ends at the 
year 1680. 

Walter Stewart of Pardovan, Esq., the well known author of 



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38 RENFREWSHIRE. 

the Collections, died while on a visit at the House of Pollok, and 
was interred in the aisle appropriated to the Pollock family.* 

LaTid-owners, — Sir John Maxwell, Bart of Pollock; and David 
Machaffie, Esq. are the chief land-owners. 

Parochial Registers. — The earliest date of the parochial regis- 
ter of births is 1687 ; but it is defective, — as few Dissenters are in- 
clined to register. The earliest date of the register of proclama- 
tion of marriages is December 1693; but this is likewise defective, 
as the parties frequently neglect to return and get the marriage re- 
gistered. 

III. — Population. 

We have no means of exactly ascertaining the ancient state of 
the population of the parish ; but it would appear, that towards the 
commencement of the last century the population was very small, 
perhaps not more than a sixth of what it now is. The burgh of 
Pollokshaws was then a small village ; and Thornliebank, which 
now contains upwards of 1300 inhabitants, had then no existence. 
The causes of the great increase of the population to its present 
amount, 6854, were the establishment of several large public works 
in the parish, and the improvements in trade, manufactures, &c. 
The amount of the population residing in Pollokshaws is 4627, — 
of which 2169 are males, and 2458 females. In Thornliebank 
the population is 1366, of which 700 are males, and 666 females. 
In the country part, there are 861, of whom 414 are males, and 
447 females. 

The proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards 
are, besides Sir John Maxwell and Mr Machaffie, already mention- 
ed, — the Earl of Glasgow; Neil Thompson, Esq. Camphill; John 
Maxwell, Esq. M.P., younger of Pollock; Dugald Bannatyne, Esq. 
Postmaster, Glasgow; Messrs Crum, Thornliebank; Martin, 

* A marble monument, erected to his memory, bears the following inscription :— 
« Within this aisle lies Walter Stewart of Pardoyan, son of Walter Stewart of Par- 
dovan, and grandson to Sir Archibald Stewart of Blackball, — a gentleman well ski!, 
led in most parts of usei\il learning, and in the constitution of his country, and emi- 
nent for his unbiassed zeal for its ancient rights and real interests, which he shewed 
by his very early appearance for the Protestant religion, in accompanying King Wil- 
liam from Holland at the glorious Revolution 1688, and afterwards by his services in 
our Scotch Parliament, where he for many years represented the burgh of Linlith- 
gow, — of such distinguished piety and zeal for our holy religion, that he mortified 
20,000 merks to the Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian Knowled^. He 
died March 8th 1719, aged 52 years, at the seat of his affectionate kinsman, Sir John 
Maxwell of PoUok, one of the Senators of the College of Justice, and is interred in 
the burial place of that honourable fiimily, which, by the permission of the honour- 
able proprietor, is likewise destined for the burial-place of his dear spouse, Katharine 
Cornwall, daughter of James Cornwall of Bonhard, who has erected this monument 
to the memory of her dearly beloved husband." 



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EASTWOOD. 39 

Esq. writer, Paisley ; Dr Macarthur, Glasgow. They are all non- 
resident, with the exception of Sir J. Maxwell and Messrs Cnim. 

There are in the parish 1 fatuous, 4 blind, and 4 deaf and dumb 
persons. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — The whole parish, excepting what is built upon, 
or occupied with wood, consists of arable land. There are nei- 
ther waste lands nor common ; and the total number of acres, stan- 
dard imperial measure, is about 5000. The number of acres 
under natural or copse-wood is 250, and there are about 100 
acres under planted timber. The trees generally planted are, oak, 
ash, elm, sycamore, beech, larch, Scotch fir, silver fir, and spruce. 

Bent of Land. — The average rent of land is about L. 2 per im- 
perial acre. The average rent of grazing is L. 4 per ox or cow. 
There are no sheep farms in the parish. 

Bxite of Wages. — The wages of day-labourers are from 10s. to 
12s. per week. Those of farm-servants are from L. 8 to L. 10 
for the half year, with bed, board, and washing. Their food con- 
sists principally of preparations of oatmeal and milk, morning and 
evening, and of broth and beef to dinner ; and the custom still 
generally prevails of the servants sitting at the same table with 
their masters. 

iiwe-S^oc*.— The cattle in the parish are chiefly of the Cun- 
ningham or Ayrshire breed. Considerable attention has been paid 
of late to its improvement. Still, however, the breeding of cattle 
is considered but a matter of secondary importance ; and, owing 
both to this circumstance, and to the inferiority of the pasture 
lands, the cattle are not equal to those reared in some of the 
neighbouring parishes, particularly those in the west 

Husbandry. — The general mode of farming pursued in the pa- 
rish is by a rotation of crops. Each farm may be pretty accu- 
rately described as divided into five parts. One part, after lying 
in pasture for the period of one season only, is ploughed up and 
sown with oats. The succeeding year, it is planted with potatoes. 
The year following, it is sown with wheat, and laid down with grass 
seeds for a crop of hay. 

The farm buildings are of one story in height, — and all, with 
one or two exceptions, slated, — afibrding every accommodation 
which the tenants require. The enclosures contain from five to 
twenty acres. 

The principal improvements that have recently been introduced 



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40 RENFUEWSUIilE. 

are furrow drains. Clauses, as to the mode of management, are 
seldom inserted in the leases, and are held to be useless, when a 
proper selection of tenants is made. Indeed, by far the greater 
part of the parish is held by the tenants, under verbal bargains^ 
for the term of years noted in the proprietor's rental book, or by a 
memorandum of the agreement. The general duration of leases is 
ten years, and few of the farms much exceed 100 acres. 

The average produce of wheat per acre may be taken at 9 bolls, 
oats, do. . .8 

cultivated bay, do. . 200 stones, 

potatoes, do. . . 90 bolls. 

There are few or no cabbages or beet raised in the parish for the 
purpose of feeding cattle. Each farmer cultivates as many tur- 
nips as may be sufficient for consumption on his own lands. They 
are seldom raised for the market. 

The quantity of land in the parish under grass may be reckoned 
at about one-half. This, it must be observed, includes, not only 
the lands in pasture connected with the various farms, but several 
large districts of pasture land which Sir John Maxwell retains in 
his own hand. 

The gross amount of coals wrought in the parish may be valued 
at L. 3500; and of lime at L. 400. 

Manufactures. — The several branches of manufacture carried on 
in the parish are cotton-spinning, weaving, bleaching, calico-print- 
ing, &c In the PoUockshaws cotton-work, there are employed 
in poWer-loom weaving, 265 persons; in cotton-spinning, 194; 
total, 459. There are employed in Auldhouse-field in bleaching 
and finishing, 190; mechanics and labourers, 20; total, 210. 
In Thornliebank, there are employed in calico-printing, 344; 
bleaching and finishing, 186 ; cotton-spinning, 151 ; power-loom- 
weaving, 121; hand-loom-weaving 45; total, 847. — At Green- 
bank, PoUockshaws, there is a considerable dye-work, but I can- 
not specify exactly the number there employed. There are, be- 
sides, in PoUockshaws, several hundred hand-loom weavers em- 
ployed by the manufacturers of Glasgow and Paisley. These have 
generally been considered as excelling in that department. 

In the manufactories, men, women, and children, work usually 
twelve hours each day, with the exception of Saturday, when 
they are engaged only nine hours ; and the wages are considered as 
affording fair remuneration and means of support to the operatives. 
With respect to their effects on health and morals, a master of one 
of these public works writes thus, « From all I can learn, the health 

3 



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EASTWOOD. 41 

and morals of persons employed in well-conducted manufacturing 
establishments are greatly superior to what they are in other districts 
of the country. The regular and abundant food, and comparatively 
comfortable lodging, more than compensate for the less frequent ex- 
posure to the open air, and the greater duration of labour ; and the 
means we possess of knowing and checking open vice, have, I be- 
lieve, a powerful effect in suppressing it." The observation of Dr 
Macgill, in the former Statistical Account, seems just, ^^ The people 
of this parish are in general more healthy than those usually are 
who follow such occupations. This may be owing in part to the fresh 
currents of air which blow frequently vrith considerable strength 
betwixt the surrounding heights, and very much to the tradesman 
mingling sometimes with hia sedentary employment the exhilarating 
exercises of the garden and the field.'' 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

PoUockshaws is the only town in the parish. It was erected in 
the year 1814 into a burgh of barony by a charter from the Crown, 
and has a provost, bailie, and six councillors, with a town-clerk and 
fiscal. All persons who rent a house of L. 4 and upwards have 
a right to vote in the election of the magistrates and council. It 
has no proper market day; but provisions of all kinds may be 
readily at any time procured. A post-office was some years ago 
established, which has daily communication with the post-office at 
Glasgow. The village of Thornliebank is situated a mile to the 
south-west of PoUockshaws, — the whole of which, with the ex- 
ception of two or three small houses, belongs to Messrs Crum, and 
is almost wholly occupied by persons in their employment. The 
length of the several turnpike roads which pass through the parish 
is about four miles ; and there are stage-coaches which travel daily 
upon them. The roads are oppressed with toll-dues so much, that 
in going from the south-west of PoUockshaws to Glasgow, a dis- 
tance of only three miles, a single horse-gig pays Is. 4d. We 
have no canals or railways in the parish. The bridges and fences 
are generally kept in good repair. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated upon the slope 
of a hill, at the south-west end of PoUockshaws. It is very conveni- 
ently situate for the inhabitants of PoUockshaws and ThornUebank, 
who compose by far the greatest part of the population. Its dis- 
tance from the most remote part of the parish does not much ex«- 
ceed three miles. Tlie old church, which stood about half a mile 
to the west, was taken down, and the new one built in 1781: it is 



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42 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Still in a tolerable state of repair. Though, at the time when it was 
built, it was reckoned one of the neatest churches in the district, — 
it is far from possessing the elegance of many churches of more recent 
erection. It affords accommodation only for about 750 persons, so 
that it is by no means sufficient for the population of the parish. There 
are no free sittings. Sir John Maxwell, having more seats than are 
required for the accommodation of his tenantry, lets a few seats an- 
nually to such of the parishioners as are not otherwise accommodat- 
ed. — The manse was rebuilt in 1791 nearly upon the old site, and 
has undergone from time to time various repairs. Though not equal 
to some of the new manses, it is still a commodious house, and very 
pleasantly situated. — The glebe, including the ground occupied by 
the manse, offices, plantings, roads, and garden, contains about six 
acres. There are not, however, more than five arable acres ; and 
it cannot be valued above L. 2 per acre. There is no land allot- 
ted for pasture : the minister receives in lieu of it only L. 20 
Scots. The stipend which, at the date of the former Statistical Ac^ 
count, was 5 chalders of meal, 1 chalder of bear, and 400 merks 
of money, including communion elements, has been since aug- 
mented three times. The last augmentation was given in 1824; 
and its amount now is 8 chalders meal, 8 chalders barley, and 
L. 15 for communion elements. 

There are no Chapels of Ease connected with the Established 
Church. There are two Seceding chapels or churches, furnishing 
sittings for about 700 each, or 750, — one of which belongs to the 
United Associate Synod, — and the other is connected with the 
Synod of Original Seceders. The stipend of the minister of the 
latter is L. 125, with a manse, garden, and cow's grass, which may 
be valued at L.20. The stipend of the minister of the former is 
L. 130, without either manse or garden. These stipends are raised 
from the seat rents and collections. We have no Episcopal or 
Catholic chapels. The Catholics, of whom it is said there are 
about 700 in the parish, when they attend public worship, go to 
Glasgow. The parish church and the two Seceding meeting- 
houses could accommodate only 2200; but, excepting upon sacra- 
mental occasions, they are seldom completely filled. The neglect 
of public worship is a growing evil ; and the public works have at- 
tracted and brought into the parish a great number of strangers, 
who are very irregular in attending upon the ordinances of religion. 
The ordinance of the Lord's supper is dispensed twice a-year si- 
multaneously in all the three places of worship. The average 



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EASTWOOD. 43 

number of communicants in the parish church is only about 860* 
Many of the rising generation never apply for admission to the 
Lord's table. The number of families professing to belong to the 
Established Church is 367; to the Original Burghers, 309; to the 
United Associate Synod, or New Light Burghers, 219; Roman 
Catholic families, 124. 162 families acknowledge that they at- 
tend no place of worship, and belong to no denomination : and 
many more are supposed to be in the same predicament who do 
not own it. 

We have no Societies at present in the parish for reti^ous pur- 
poses. A Bible, Missionary, and Educational Society has been 
once and again attempted, and for some time carried on ; but it 
gradually fell off, till at last it has totally disappeared. The pa- 
rish has been assessed for the support of the poor for a number 
of years past ; and ever since, our church collections have been 
greatly diminished, and perhaps do not average much above 7s. or 
8s. per day. 

The minister has a class of young persons who attend him week- 
ly for the purpose of receiving instruction in the principles of re- 
ligion ; and a Fellowship- Meeting, consisting of a considerable 
number of the rising generation, has lately been formed, which 
promises a revival of religion among the young. 

EducatioTu — There are five schools in the parish, — in each of 
which there is only one teacher. The parochial teacher has the 
maximum salary, and the legal accommodations of school-room, 
dwelling-house, and garden. The branches of education usually 
taught are, reading, writing, arithmetic, geography, English gram- 
mar, Latin, and occasionally algebra and practical mathematics* 
The general expense of education per quarter is, 3s. for reading ; 
reading and writing, 3s. 6d. ; Latin, &c. 5s. The greatest number 
attending the parish school is 51 males, and 50 females. The 
probable amount of fees paid to the schoolmaster is L. 36 per an- 
num. The same branches of education are generally taught in 
the other schools ; and the greatest number of males attending is 
363, and females 246 ; in these numbers, is included a great pro- 
portion of evening scholars, who are connected with the public 
works, and therefore cannot attend any day-school. The fees are 
the same as those of the parochial school. It is not easy to state 
exactly the number of the young between six and fifteen years 
of age who cannot read or write ; but there is reason to fear that 
it is considerable. There are but too many who seem not alive 



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44 RENFREWSHIRE. 

to the benefits of education, but there are others, whose poverty 
only prevents them from giving their children that education 
which they would wish. A number of the children of the poor 
are educated at the expense of the parish. Of the other teachers 
three pay rent for their respective school-rooms. The teacher at 
Thornliebank has a large and commodious school-room from the 
proprietors of the public works, together with a comfortable dwel- 
ling-house ; but he is otherwise wholly dependent upon school fees* 
There are, besides, in the parish, three Sabbath schools, attended 
by about 600 males and females ; but of these it is believed a con- 
siderable proportion attend either day or evening schools through 
the week. The expense incurred by these is defrayed by occa- 
sional collections. 

Literature. — We have no parochial or circulating libraries at 
present in the parish. A public reading-room was sometime ago 
opened in PoUockshaws, but not meeting with sufficient encourage- 
ment, it has been discontinued. 

Friendly Societies. — There are the following friendly societies: 
1. The Qld Society of Weavers, instituted 1749. The number 
of members is about 200 ; contribution, 4s. per annum ; bedfast 
aliment, ds. per week; and walking aliment, 2s. Id. To super- 
annuated members, or such as are past working, bedfast aliment 
2s. Id.: walking aliment. Is. dd. 

2. Ayr and Renfrewshire Friendly Society of Weavers, insti- 
tuted 1799 ; members about 200 ; rate of contribution and aliment 
the same as in the old society. The average annual expenditure 
about L. 30. 

3. Young Society of Weavers, instituted 1774 ; rate of contri- 
bution and aliment nearly the same as above. 

4. Funeral Friendly Society, instituted 1827; rate of contribu- 
tion, a man with a family, 4s., a single man, 2s. L. 2 are given to 
defray the funeral charges of a member. The number of mem- 
bers is about 100. 

5. Gardeners' Friendly Society, instituted 1830; rate of con- 
tribution, 6s. per annum; members, 44; bedfast aliment, 5s. per 
week ; walking aliment, 3s. per week- 

6. Cowglen Friendly Society, instituted 1809; 67 members; 
contributions 5s. per annum ; bedfast aUment, 6s. per week ; walk- 
ing aliment, 4s. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of regular 
paupers upon the roll is 81 ; and average allowance to each per 



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EASTWOOD. 45 

year L. 2, 16s. O^d. — exclusive of articles of clothing, which are 
allowed when necessary. Small sums are sometimes also given for 
the relief of occasional distress. 

The funds for the poor are derived from an assessment impos- 
ed annually, (one-half on the heritors, and the other on the rest of 
the inhabitants, according to their means and circumstances,) and 
amounting for the current year to L. 335 ; rent of a small house 
left to the parish, and church collections, L. 24 ; total, L. 359. 

A disposition to refrain from seeking parochial relief does exist 
to a considerable degree. Of this, the existence of so many Friendly 
Societies seems an evident proof. There are, however, many per- 
sons who think themselves not at all degraded by application for 
relief to the parish funds. 

Prison. — The jail of Pollockshaws, although authorized legally 
as such, is not fit for the accommodation of prisoners, and is used 
only as a temporary lock-up -place, where offenders are confined 
for a few hours, or until they can be transmitted to the county pri- 
son. 

Fair. — We have no fairs, — unless the last Friday of May may 
be so called, which is observed as a holiday, and when there is a 
trifling horse-race, which has no other tendency than to assemble 
a number of idle people, and promote the sale of whisky. 

Irmsj Alehotises, Sfc. — There are 56 licensed alehouses or 
whisky shops in the parish. Their number has been greatly in- 
creased within these twenty years. They have a very injurious 
effect upon the morals of the people, and are known from actual 
observation to be productive of great misery and much crime. 
Their number, I am informed, is much greater in proportion to 
the population than in any other part of the county; and the num- 
ber of cases of assault and other minor offences, arising generally 
from intoxication, seems nearly in the same proportion. 

Fuel — Coal may be said to be the only fuel. Of this there is 
abundance in the parish and neighbourhood ; and the price varies 
from 4s. 6d. to 5s. 6d. per cart, 12 cwt. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
There is a striking difference betwixt the present state of the 
parish and that which existed at the time of the former Statistical 
Account, in respect of population, — the number of inhabitants since 
that time being greatly more than doubled. At that time, also, a 
considerable part of the land was, in a manner, waste, — being co- 
vered with heath and bent ; whereas now there is hardly an acre of 



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46 RENFREWSHIRE. 

unproductive land in the parish. Draining, which then was little, if 
at all, practised, is going forward with great spirit, and will with- 
out doubt tend much to improve the quality of the soil, and pro- 
motelts fertility. It does not appear to the writer that any bet- 
ter system of husbandry can be introduced, or the facilities of in- 
ternal communication increased, — there being already excellent 
roads leading to and through every part of the parish. Could ar- 
dent spirits be altogether banished, or their consumption diminish- 
ed tenfold, and those engaged in the public works led more generally 
to sanctify the Sabbath and attend upon public worship, these 
things would tend greatly to promote the best interests of the 
working-classes. It is likewise evident that there is much need for 
church extension, — the present accommodation being by no means 
adequate to the population. 

January 1836. 



UNITED PARISHES OF 

HOUSTON AND KILLALLAN. 

PRESBYTERY OF PAISLEY, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. JOHN MONTE ATH, D.D. MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

The parishes of Houston and Killallan were united in the year 
1760. 

Names. — Killallan is a corruption of KillfiUan, u e. CeUa Fillani, 
the name of the tutelary saint of the parish. Houston may be sup- 
posed to be a corruption of Hew's town, perhaps from Hugo de 
Padvinan, who is said, by Mr Crawfurd, in his History of Renfrew- 
shire, to have obtained a grant of the barony of Kelpeter, the an- 
cient name of Houston parish, from Baldwin of Biggar, Sheriff of 
Lanark in the reign of Malcolm IV. 

Boundaries, extenL-^ThQ united parish is bounded on the west 
by Kilmacolm ; on the south by Kilbarchan ; on the north and east 
by the parish of Erskine, which separates it from the Clyde. It 
is about 6 miles in length and 3 in breadth. 

Hydroffraphy.^-The only considerable river is Gryfe, which 



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HOUSTON AND KILLALLAN. 47 

separates it from Kilbarchan on the south. This river has its 
source in the high moors and mountains that are situated between 
Kilmalcolm and the Largs on the coast of the Frith of Clyde. It 
is composed of several streams that unite near the mansion-house 
of Duchal. It runs rapidly over several precipices to the low 
country at Fulwood ; after which, it moves slowly in a serpentine 
course, receiving the river Black Cart at Moss Walkinshaw, and 
White Cart at Inchinnan Bridge, and thence into the Clyde a little 
below Renfrew. 

Geology. — In the highest districts of these parishes, granite pre- 
vails. In the lower districts, there are sandstone and limestone 
quarries, and coals. 

Alluvial deposits, moss, or peat, in many places six feet deep, 
cover extensive fields of clay, in the low districts of Killallan, be- 
ing the eastmost part of the parish, and on both sides of the water 
of Gryfe. Small pieces of land have been cleared of the moss, and 
produce good crops. 

Zoology. — The woodlark, sometimes called the Scotch night- 
ingale, from its pleasant and plaintive notes, and singing often after 
nightfall, was common here fifty years ago, but has quite disap- 
peared since that time. Whether the introduction of foreign trees 
among the natural woods, such as larch and pines, or frequent 
liming of land, or some severe winter, have occasioned their 
disappearing, — the writer of this account will not venture to de- 
termine. 

Botany. — The writer of this account has often examined the 
indigenous plants of these parishes by Linnaeus's Genera Plantarum, 
but found none but such as are common in the west of Scotland. 

There is an extensive natural wood on Houston barony, the pro- 
perty of Archibald Spiers, Esq. of Eldersly, consisting of oak, 
birch, plane, ash. There are also an extensive natural wood, con- 
sisting of the same kinds of trees, on the estate of Barochan, the 
property of William M. Fleming, Esq. of Barochan, and some 
thriving modern plantations on Barochan. But the most exten- 
sive plantations in these parishes are on the high-lands in Killal- 
lan, and on the mosses in the lower parts of Killallan, which Mr. 
Spiers has planted with oak, larch, ash, beech, Scotch fir. Most 
of the trees thrive well on the high-land, particularly the larch. 
Those on the mosses have a good appearance at a distance, but 
have not been narrowly inspected for some years by the writer of 
this article. During the severe drought this season, a very consi- 



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48 RENFREWSHIRE. 

derable number of acres of planting on the moss, on the south side 
of the Gryfe, were by accident set on fire ; the wind being from 
the east, the fire raged, and the flames rose to a great height In 
some parts, the progress of the fire was arrested by a number of 
men cutting large trenches in the moss. To leave large avenues un* 
planted in modern plantations might, perhaps, prevent the spread- 
ing of fire. Proprietors of land may sdso, perhaps, find it their in- 
terest, when planting on high and exposed situations, to plant the 
pinaster or maritime pine along the skirts of their plantations, as 
an excellent defence against the storm ; but it requires to be trans- 
planted in the nursery, its tap-root shortened, and to stand eighteen 
months more in a nursery of rich ground. The Earl of Galloway, 
by following this plan, has obtained thriving plantations on every 
exposure ; and in the west of Scotland Scotch firs planted on the 
south-west of the other trees are a great defence from our most 
frequent storms. 

II. — Civil History. 

Land'owners, — The chief land-owners are, Archibald Spiers, 
Esq. of Eldersly, non-resident ; William M. Fleming, Esq. of Ba- 
rochan, resident ; William M. Alexander, Esq. of Southbar, non- 
resident; William Cunningham, Esq. of Craigends, non-resi- 
dent. 

Family of Fleming of Barochan. — Barochan is a very ancient 
family. Peter Fleming of Barochan * and six of his sons fell in 
the fatal field of Flowden. Mr Fleming left a seventh son, who 
succeeded him. This same Peter Fleming was a celebrated fal- 
coner. His tersel beat the falcon of James IV., upon which the 
King unhooded his favourite hawk, and put the hood on the ter- 
sel. The hood was richly ornamented with precious stones. Most 
of them were stolen many years ago. One ruby remained of great 
value ; but about thirteen years ago, it fell out, and, not being 
missed at the time, it was lost. A few seed pearls only remain. 
There is still at Barochan a pair of silver spurs which belonged 
to the same Peter Fleming. Barochan cross was described in 
the former Statistical Account Its history is still obscure. 
But antiquarians may perhaps be enabled to throw some light on 
its original, by examining these fine stenographic figures of it 
which were lately furnished to the writer of this Account by W. 

» This laird of Barochan had probably two proper names, and this may account for 
his being denominated William in the account given of his death, in the former $ta« 
tistical Account. 



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HOUSTON AND KILLALLAN. 49 

M. Fleming, Esq. the present proprietor of Barochan, and which 
will be found in his possession.* 

Parochial Registers, — There are three volumes of parochial 
registers; the earliest entry is 25th October 1696. The two 
oldest volumes have not been regularly kept ; they are not even 
authenticated by the subscription of any clerk ; and there are con- 
siderable gaps in them. Indeed, there never was any parochial 
schoolmaster or regular session-clerk in the parish of Killallan 
while disjoined from Houston ; and no register, except one gratui- 
tously kept by the late Rev. Mr Monteath, previous to 1799. The 
date of births was entirely omitted, and baptisms only inserted, 
— such perhaps might be the common practice at that time. But 
when this omission was discovered by the present minister, he con- 
sidered it his duty to the public, to insist that births should be 
strictly and uniformly registered ; and he had some diflSculty in per- 
suading the session-clerk that this was absolutely necessary, for ex- 
actly ascertaining the ages of the parishioners. Since that year, 
the register has been regularly kept. 

III. — Population. 

In the year 1760, when these parishes were united, there were 

only about 300 examinable persons in each of them. The whole 

population in 1831 of the united parishes was 2745. The cause of 

this remarkable increase is evidently the introduction of public works. 

Number of persons in Tillages, . . . . 2140 

the country, . . . . 605 

Yearly avenige of births for the last seven years, • . 5&^ 

marriages, do. • . . . 2df 

Nomber of persons under 15 years of age, . . 1216 

betwixt 15 and 30, . . . .681 

so and 50, . . .485 

50 and 70, . . . 295 

upwards of 70, . . ... 68 

Number of fiunilies in the parish, . . . . 520 

chiefly employed in agriculture, ... 100 
in trade, manufiictures, or handicraft, 363 

Average number of children in each family, • . . 2|- 

Jnsane and fatuous persons, . ... 4 

William M. Fleming, Esq. of Barochan, is the only resident heri- 
tor, possessing a considerable landed estate; but there are several 

* There wta a plan of Houston parish, made at the desire of a former proprietor 
of the barony of Houston, which comprehends the whole of that parish, and part of 
Killallan ; but the plan is now lost. The present minister of these parishes has a 
faint recollection of having seen, a great many years ago, but cannot remember in 
whose custody it was, a fine and apparently minute plan of Houston and the adjacent 
country, specifying the ncmesof the farms ; it was said to have been made under the 
influence of the French government, with a view to the invasion of this part of the 
country. 

RENFREW. D 



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50 UENFEEWSHIRE. 

individuals and families of independent fortune resident in the pa- 
rishes. 

The number of proprietors of land, having L. 50 and upwards 
of yearly rent, resident and non-resident, about 9. 

Character of the People. — The author of this article, in his Ac- 
count of the parish of Neilston, inserted in the former work, ven- 
tured to state his opinion on the effects of some of the cotton 
mills, and other public works with which the parish abounded, 
upon the morals and health of the people.*" The lapse of 
forty years has not induced the author to alter the opinion which 
be then expressed on this subject Where a population is 
composed, like that of Houston and Killallan, of people from all 
quarters, and of all sentiments in religion and politics, it is difficult 
to delineate their character. He hopes, however, that they are 
not behind any of their neighbours, who are similarly situated, in 
intellectual, moral, and religious improvement. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture, — Draining and straightening of ridges have been 
practised for many years. The farm-houses are almost all slated 
and commodious. Leases generally for nineteen years. 

Rent of Land. — Rent of arable land from L. 2 to L. 3, and in 
some situations L.4per acre. The valued rent of the parish is 
L. 4057, 8s. Scots ; the real rent probably L. 9000 Sterling. 

Recent Agricultural Improvements. — Mr Fleming of Barochan 
lately returned from India, where he was a District-Judge, and 
afterwards a Circuit-Judge fcrr many years, when he had leisure 
from the important duties of his office, amused himself with agri- 
cultural and chemical experiments ; and is now improving here his 
paternal estate to a considerable extentf The scarcity and the 
consequent dearness of common manure is among the greatest ob- 
stacles to agricultural improvements in this part of the country. He 
has, therefore, lately made many experiments of oil mixed with 
moss as a manure, — which he has found answer well for top-dressing 
grass lands, and also for various crops ; and if oil can be purchased 
at L. 18 Sterling per toii, he is of opinion it can be used profitably 
as a substitute for common manure. :|: 

• Vide Volume second of former Statistical Account, parish of Neilston. The 
account of this parish was, with some others, translated into French, and transmitted 
by Sir John Sinclair to some of the foreign cabinets, as specimens of statistics. 

•J* It is said, that Mr Fleming, when in India, made several new and valuable im- 
provements in the collection and preparation of opium. 

\ An extensive use of oil compost might be useful to the fisheries, by increasing 
the demand for oil, which has decreased since the introduction of gas. 

4 



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HOUSTON AND KILLALLAN. 51 

Cotton Milk — Bleachfield. — The cotton mills erected since the 
time of the former Statistical Account are, all but one, on the left 
bank of the water of Gryfe ; they commence in Killallan, about two 
miles west from the church of Houston, continue in an eastern di- 
rection, and terminate in Houston parish. They are the following : 
the new mill occupied by Messrs X and J. Findlay, near Bridge of 
Weir, in Killallan, built in 1792 ; it is 144 feet in length, 36 in 
width, height 3 stories and attics ; it contains 6240 mule spindles, 
and the necessary preparations, and is driven by a water-wheel 13 
feet diameter, by 11 in width; 12 horses power; 94 persons em- 
ployed in it; amount of wages paid weekly, L. 32, 10s. 

Gryfe Grove Mill, occupied by Mr Robert Barr, built in 1822, 
46 feet long, 30 feet wide, of two stories and garret; contains 900 
mule spindles, 480 water-twist spindles going, and machinery for 
preparation, driven by a water wheel of 12 feet diameter, and 6 
feet wide, made of cast and malleable iron ; 1 1 males and 20 females 
are employed in the mill, and 8 women in their own houses, 3 of 
whom are widowers, and two of them near eighty years of age. 
The wages paid to workers per week average about L. 10, or 
L.520 a-year, exclusive of cartage and other out-door work. Ad- 
jacent to this mill, Mr Barr and a partner, Mr M^Gavin, erected a 
mill for carding wool and tow, for country people. 

Another cotton mill, adjacent to the last mentioned, is building 
by Mr Shank, 46 feet long, 36 feet wide over the walls, consisting of 
a cotton cellar, two stories and garret; when finished, it will contain 
from 1300 to 1400 water-twist spindles, and all necessary machi- 
nery for preparation^ driven by a water-wheel of 12 feet diameter, 
6^ feet wide, made of cast and malleable iron. 

Gryfe Mill, a little to the east from Bridge Weir, occupied by 
Messrs John Freeland and Company, was built in 1793, is upwards 
of 190 feet, within the walls, in length, 34 feet in width within the 
walls, 50 feet in height, contains 18^000 spindles, 35 spinners, 
with ample preparation, wrought with a water-wheel of iron 18| 
feet in diameter, by 12 broad, lighted by gas, employs regularly 
upwards of 260 hands ; wages paid every second Saturday, amount- 
ing to upwards of L. 200 Sterling. 

Crosslie Mill, occupied by Messrs William Stevenson and Sons, 
built in 1793, length 190 feet, breadth 38 feet, and six stories 
high, driven by one of the largest cast iron wheels in the county, 
being 26 feet in diameter, and 12 feet broad, estimated at 70 horse 



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52 RENFREWSHIRE. 

power ; 300 persons employed in it ; their average wages amount to 
L. 115 per week. 

Houston Cotton Mill, on the bum of Houston, occupied by Mr 
Arrol, built about the year 1793. The present occupier has since 
added about one-third to the building, and filled it with machinery. 
It is 95 feet long within the walls, 33^ wide, and 4 stories high, 
containing 9000 mule spindles, with preparations, driven by a water 
wheel 30 feet diameter, by 4 wide, reckoned at about 18 horse power. 
There is also an engine attached to this mill, which is employ* 
ed in dry weather. The number of workers engaged is about 
140 ; 17 of thes6 are spinners from twenty-five to forty-five years of 
age, the rest are boys and girls from ten to twenty years of age. 
The occupier of this mill has not stated any thing respecting the 
wages of the work-people ; but remarks, that there are several capi- 
tal sites in the upper parts of the united parishes for collecting 
water in winter, which if held in lease by him, would supersede the 
fire-engine, but the rent asked for the land there was more than 
could be given. Several of the proprietors of mills upon the Gryfe 
have made similar remarks, stating their wish to have additional re- 
servoirs of water, but that a higher rent for the land was asked than 
they could agree to pay. 

Houston Bleachfield, on Houston Bum, occupied by Messrs J. 
and J. Carlisle, is mostly employed by the manufacturers of Glas- 
gow and Paisley. About 50 people are engaged in the bleaching 
annually of about 4000 lbs. cotton yam, and 60,000 lbs. linen yarn 
and thread, and in the whitening and drying of about 12000 lbs. of 
Chinese raw silk. The men are paid at the rate of 9s. to L. 1, 
and the females from 5s. to 7s. per week* They are mostly na- 
tives of Argyleshire. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Villages, — There are three villages. The nearest market-town 
is Paisley, seven miles distant from the church of Houston ; but 
there is a market for a variety of articles also in the large and po- 
pulous village of Johnstone, about three miles distant. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The church was built in 1775, is con- 
veniently situated, and accommodates above 800 people. Di- 
vine service is generally well attended. There are no Dissent- 
ing or Seceding chapels within the united parishes ; but there are 
houses, of worship for most of the diflferent descriptions of Dissent- 
ers and Seceders, not distant, in several neighbouring parishes. 
The manse was built about thirty-two years ago. The glebe is 



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HOUSTON AND KILLALLAN. 53 

six acres ia extent; the stipend 8 chalders of oatmeal and 8 
chalders of barley.* 

Education. — There is one parochial school, — the branches 
taught are, Latin, English, English grammar, writing, arithmetic, 
book-keeping, and geography; schoolmaster's salary L. 34, 4s.4^d. 
Sterling ; amount of school fees about L. 28 ; he has the le- 
gal accommodation. He has some additional income as clerk to the 
kirk-session. The general expense of education is very moderate, 
— only about I4s. Sterling per annum. There are four private 
schools, in which, excepting Latin and geography, the branches 
already stated are taught. The teachers are paid by those who 
employ them. Perhaps the most visible change in the people since 
the facilities of education were increased is, that they appear now 
to be all politicians. 

Literature. — There is a library in the village of Houston ; news* 
papers are common. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of poor re- 
ceiving parochial aid, 28 ; average sum allotted to each per week 
Is. 8^d. One insane pauper lodged in the asylum at Glasgow, 
costs the poors' funds about L. 20 Sterling yearly. There is only 
one small asylum in this very populous county of Renfrew, — about 
two miles below Greenock. The want of a much larger one, and 
in a more central place of the county, is felt very severely, and 
ought to be provided for. 

Annual contributions for the poor, at an average, — at the doors 
of Houston church, L. 58 ; from annual proclamation of banns, and 
mortcloth money, L. 7, 4s. ; interest of L. ] 90 of stock in the 
bank, at 2^ per cent L. 4, 15s. ; annual donations from the he- 
ritors and proprietors of public works for twenty years past, only 
L.20; total, L. 89, 19s. But the parochial minister has re- 
peatedly represented to the heritors and proprietors of the public 

* The following statement may perhaps be of some interest to patrons and presby- 
teries. The present incumbent, afUr having been a minister in a Chapel of Ease, was 
unanimously admitted assif^tant minister and successor to his father in these united pa- 
rishes, in June 1781 ; he was afterwards admitted minister of Neilston in March 1 IS^ ; 
and after the decease of his father, he was again admitted minister in the united parishes 
here in September 1797. The Rev. Mr Forrest, late minister of Port- Glasgow, presid- 
ed at both of these admissions at Houston. As it is a vice-patronage here, the late Mr 
Fleming of Harochan challenged Mr Spiers of Elderslie's right respecting the said 
second admission at Houston, alleging that Mr Spiers had exhausted his right by 
the first admission of the present incumbent ; but the Court of Session decided unani- 
mously in favour ci Mr Spiers*8 right to present, and Mr Fleming acquiesced. Was 
this decision founded on the principle, that where there is no actual vacancy there can 
be no legal presentation ? 



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54 RENFREWSHIRE. 

works in Houston and Killallan, the absolute necessity, in these 
parishes, crowded with public works, and several rising villages, 
either to enlarge their contributions, or to assess the parish. 

There seems to be no disposition among the poor to refrain from 
seeking parochial relief, or to consider it as degrading ; the former 
independent spirit of the Scotch seems much on the decline in all 
the manufacturing districts ; and what is perhaps still more to be 
regretted, many children neglect their parents in old age, and even 
parents desert their children. 

Fairs. — Fairs are yearly in May, for milch cows, young cattle, 
and Highland cattle. 

Inns. — These are numerous, and their e£fects obvious. 

Fuel. — Coals are abundant at three miles distance, and peats at 
two miles ; but the former are sold at a high price, owing to the 
great demand. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

The state of the united parishes at present, crowded as they are 
with public works, and a population collected from all quarters, is 
very different from its state at the time of the former Statistical 
Account, when the people were principally employed in the pur- 
suits of an agricultural and pastoral life, and when strangers had 
not much mingled with them. 

Improvements in agriculture might still proceed, were leases for 
nineteen years granted, not at the price of grain during the last and 
long-continued war with France, but at the market price of grain 
for several years past, and were some other reasonable encourage- 
ments given. 

With regard to what might promote the progress of industry, 
and the happiness and comfort of the labouring classes, the writer 
is humbly of opinion, that by such an increase of knowledge in re- 
ligion, morals, history, and some of the most useful arts and sciences, 
as would induce them to persevere in habits of industry, sobriety, 
and economy, and to cherish the feeling of self-respect, and counter- 
act the prevailing spirit of a reckless improvidence, — ^much misery 
might be prevented.* 

The large moss in the parish of Killallan belongs partly to the 
estate of Barochan and partly to that of Fulwood. It was divid- 
ed by a decree of the Court of Session about twenty- nine years 

* It was from an earnest desire to promote these ends that the parochial minister 
frequently recommended attention to a library of valuable books, from the pulpit, 
and that he has from time to time contributed to the library of Houston and Killallan. 



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HOUSTON AND KILLALLAN. 55 

ago or thereabouts. Mr Spiers, the proprietor of Fulwood, has 
planted a great part of his portion with Scotch firs; but the trees 
have not thriven on this moss, probably in consequence of the 
moss being too wet Little other improvement has been attempt- 
ed, except near the edges, where the peat has been mostly remov- 
ed, and there a few acres have been occasionally reclaimed. There 
is a good deal of bent land of the same description that might 
easily be brought into cultivation ; but the greatest bar to improve- 
ment is the wetness and want of access. The first thing, then, to 
be done, is to lay it as dry as possible, and then to make a road 
through it, which would admit of the transit of peats, and facili- 
tate the clearing of the moss, preparatory to improvement 

Moss can be made into a very good manure by being mixed 
with oil, and at a moderate expense, particularly when oil is cheap. 
The experiment lately tried by Mr Fleming perfectly succeeded. 
The proportions were 3 cwt, of oil to 60 cubic yards of moss. 
The moss was spread on the ground about one and a-half feet, and 
covered with long horse litter, weeds, &c an inch or two thick, 
(a cart or two is sufficient for this quantity of moss.) Above 
this, another layer of moss was laid of one foot thick, and the 
three cwt. of oil poured over it as equally as possible. The whole 
was then covered up with eight inches or a foot of moss, and 
allowed to heat for three weeks, (the time, however, must depend 
on the weather.) When it had stood for this period it was turn- 
ed over, and when again well heated for a fortnight, it was ready 
to be laid on turnip land, — the texture of the moss having been 
by this time completely altered, and become in appearance a black, 
greasy, rich mould. 

The turnips were not sown until the middle of July with the 
moss manure, which was used in the proportion of 30 cubic yards 
per acre ; and from being too late, and the season wet and bad, 
the crop was far from good, though quite as muph so as those sown 
on the same land, at the same time, and with the same quantity 
of the best short cow dung ; and this year the oats look as well on 
the land manured with the moss as on that of the same description 
which was manured with the dung at the same time. The cost of 
the compound was as follows, (the oil being very dear in 1830, at 
which period the experiment was made :) coarse* train oil 3 cwt., 
L. 3, 10s. ; horse litter, 5s. ; driving moss, 70 cubic yards, 
L. 1, 10s.; working and turning, 10s.; expense of 60 cubic 



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56 RENFREWSHIRE. 



manure, at Is. lid. per cubic yard, L. 5, 15s. The 
oil in 1831 was so high in price that blubber was substitute 
ed by Mr Fleming, which cost L. 10 per ton, and double the 
quantity was used to the same number of cubic yards of moss. 
This did not, however, answer quite so well as the oil, it taking a 
longer time to heat and mix with the moss, that is, from two to 
three months, before it was ready ; but the time it takes to heat 
depends very much on the season of the year and the state of the 
moss, which ought to be exposed to the air and frost, six or eight 
months before it is used, and ought not to be used in too wet a 
state. Six acres of barley were manured with this composition 
in 1831. The compound of oil and moss not having been long 
enough made, it did not become firm enough for turnips, and did 
not consequently answer for them ; but the barley crop has been 
good, and the field looks well, having been sown down with grass 



Bevised January 1836. 

PARISH OF KILMALCOLM. 

PRESBYTERY OF GREENOCK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. ROBERT CAMERON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Extent, Boundaries, — The extent of the parish is about 6 miles 
square ; it is bounded on the west by the parishes of Port-Glas- 
gow, Greenock, Innerkip, and Largs ; on the east by Killallan and 
Houston ; on the south by Kilbarchan and Lochwinnoch ; and on 
the north by Erskine and the river Clyde. 

Topographical Appearances. — The general appearance of the 
parish partakes of the Highland character. The lands in general 
rise in gentle swells from the river; and in some places are rocky 
and moorish. Here and there, are clumps of planting, which give 
a beauty and variety to the surrounding scenery. This is parti- 
cularly the case towards the south. The village is about 350 
feet above the level of the sea, and few spots command a more 



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KILMALCOLM. 57 

rich and beautiful view than the rising grounds on the shore. At 
certain seasons of the year, there are heavy falls of rain, attend- 
ed with high winds, which injure the fields and gardens. The 
climate is moist, and all the houses are more or less affected 
with dampness. The inhabitants are generally healthy. In« 
flammations and rheumatic affections are the most prevailing dis- 
eases. 

Hydrography. — The Frith of Clyde bounds the parish between 
three and four miles on the north. The waters of the Grieff and 
Duchall rise in the west, and run in a southerly direction through 
the whole length of the parish, — unite their streams,^— change their 
course eastwards, and discharge their waters into the river Cart, 
which falls into the Clyde at Inchinnan. The parish abounds 
with excellent water. During very dry seasons, some of the surface 
springs disappear, — which, however, occasions no inconvenience, 
as the perennial springs are numerous, and yield an ample supply 
of the finest water at all times. 

Geology. — The rocks that abound in this parish are of granite, 
and in some places of great depth. Some simple minerals have 
been found from time to time. The soil on the rocks is light and 
gravelly, and upon the high-lands is covered with heath and wild 
flowers. The vegetable productions and other plants are all of 
the common kind. 

Zoology. — A few years ago, a bull and two cows of the aborigi- 
nal breed of the country were brought into the parish from Eglih- 
ton Castle. They are entirely white, and continue so shy that 
they will allow no one to approach them. The flesh of these ani- 
mals, it is believed, has neither the richness nor the flavour of the 
Highland breed of cattle. 

The streams abound with excellent fish ; such as trout and par. 
At the end of the year, the salmon come from the Clyde up the 
small river, where they deposit large quantities of fry, which return 
to the salt water in the month of April. So rapid is their growth in 
salt water that, report says, they have increased in length eighteen 
inches. A small piece cut out of the fin is the usual mark by 
which this fact has been ascertained. 

II. — Civil History. 
Some account of this parish is contained in the histories of 
Renfrewhire that have been published from time to time, — such 
as those of Semple, Crawford, and Wilson. There are no sepa- 



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58 RENFREWSHIRE. 

rate maps of the parish ; but it is delineated in the map of Ren- 
frewshire, where it is described as the most extensive in the coun- 
ty, in point of surface. The Lords Lyles and the Earls of Glen- 
cairn had property in the parish and seats in the church ; and some 
of them were interred in the cemetery of the church. 

Land-ovDfiers, — The chief heritors are, James Corbet Porter- 
field ; W. C. C. Graham ; Robert Farquhar ; William Macdowall ; 
and John May, Esqs. 

Parochial Registers.-^The parochial registers do not extend far 
back ; neither have they been regularly kept The first entry is 
made in the year 1707. A parochial register is now regularly 
kept 

Buildings. — The church may be said to be the only public 
building in the parish. The houses of Duchall, Carruth, Finlay- 
ston, and Broadfield, are, however, modern mansions, and elegant- 
ly and commodiously built The House of Finlayston commands 
a beautiful and extensive view of the Clyde. 

There are three mills in the parish for grinding oats and 
barley. 

III. — Population. 

Ttie population of the parish was, according to the census of 1801, . 1 100 

1811, 1474 

1821, . 1600 

1831, . 1613 

of whom there were, males, 756 ; females, 857 

The village contains 367 inhabitants ; the country part of the parish 1246. 

The yearly average of births, &c for the seven years preceding 
1833 is as follows: Baptisms, 23; Marriages, 17$ ; Burials, 171^. 

Fourteen individuals in the parish draw upwards of L.50 yearly 
from land, and are all independent in their circumstances. There 
are also 227 houses inhabited by 300 families. There are 2 per- 
sons blind, 3 deaf and dumb, and 1 insane. 

It is pleasing to see the improvement that has taken place in 
the character and manners of the people. The church is more 
regularly attended ; the people are cleanly, and their dress taste- 
ful. Their manners and language are also improving, and they are 
not surpassed in religion or morality by any around them. 

During the last three years there have been four illegitimate 
births in the parish. 

IV. — Industry. 
353 males are employed in agriculture above twenty years of 



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KILMALCOLM. 59 

age ; 13 in maDufactures ; and 57 in the retail of grocery goods, 
&c. There are 104 family servants, and 2 surgeons. 

CuhiTAted or occasionally in tillage, - 8000 acres. 

Constantly waste, or in pasture, - - 220OO 

That might be profitably cultivated, - 1000 

Under wood, natural 20, planted 205, - 225 

In undivided common, Duchall moor, - 5800 

AffricuUure. — The soil is light. A large quantity of land in the 
parish has not been brought into a state of cultivation. This is 
no doubt owing, in a great measure, to its general sterility, and the 
consequent expense attending improvements. The farmer has 
done much, but cannot be expected to do all, unless he receive 
considerable assistance and encouragement. 

Beni of Land. — The average rent of land per acre is L. 1 ; for 
grazing an ox, L. 3 ; for pasturing a sheep, 5s. Real rent of the 
parish about L. 7000. 

Husbandry. — The cattle in general are of the Ayrshire breed, 
and some of the farmers along the moors keep sheep, which pas- 
ture on Duchall moor. The usual course of husbandry is pursued, 
and considerable improvement has been made in this department 
within these few years. The farmers were, some time ago, thought 
rather behind their neighbours ; but, considering the nature of the 
soil, there is now no ground for such complaint. Their crops 
bring as high prices at the market as those of the adjoining pa« 
rishes. Leases are in general for nineteen years. The farm- 
steadings are not in good order ; but some new ones are build- 
ing, which will be a great improvement 

Produce. — The average yearly amount and value of raw produce 
raised in the parish, may be as follows : 

Grain of all kinds, - L. 8000 
Poutoes and turnips, - 5000 
Hay, .... 1500 
Land in pasture, - - 8150 
Gardens, ... 80 

Misoellaneous produce, - 200 

L. 17,980 

V. — Parochial Economt. 
Kilmalcolm is the only village in the parish, and is distant about 
four miles from Port- Glasgow, which is the nearest market and 
post-town. The public roads, on which there are two toll-bars, 
are kept in good repair, and extend in length about six miles. The 
bridges are also kept in good order. The fences are but indiffe- 
rent, — no great taste or care being shown in this respect. It is 



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60 RENFREWSHIRE. 

hoped that more attention will l)e bestowed on them in future, as 
it may be the means of preventing serious accidents, several of 
which have taken place. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church stands in the village^ 
and is not conveniently situated for the population. To the west 
and south, many are four miles distant, — so that it is almost impos- 
sible, during a great part of the year, for the old and infirm to at- 
' tend public worship, which is a subject of regret. A new parish 
church was built about two years ago, and is in excellent repair. 
It can accommodate about 1000 persons, and is too large for the 
present population. 

The manse was built more than a century ago, and has under- 
gone some extensive alterations and repairs. Upwards of forty 
years ago, two wings were added to it, and a handsome porch, — 
which render the house as convenient as any modem manse in the 
neighbourhood. The glebe lands, including the garden and the 
site of the manse, consist of about 8 acres. The soil in many 
places is very shallow, and cannot be valued at more than L. id. 

The stipend is 16 chalders, half meal half barley, convertible at 
the highest fiar prices of the county, — besides L. 8^ 6s. 8d. for com- 
munion elements. 

There are two meeting-houses in the parish : one belongs to a 
few Baptists, and the other to the sect denominated the Reform- 
ed Presbytery. No emolument is attached to the former; and the 
latter is supported from collections and seat rents. These meeting- 
houses are attended by few who belong to the parish. The Bap- 
tists may number about 10 individuals, and the Reformed Pres« 
bytery about 20 members ; but neither of these bodies is on the 
increase. The great body of the people attend the Established 
church. There are 400 communicants on an average, who receive 
the sacrament, — which, considering the population, is a large num- 
ber. The young seem all to express a desire to join the church at 
a certain age. 

Education. — There are six schools in the parish, and the paro- 
chial school is in the village. The teacher has the maximum salary, 
a dwelling-house and garden. The branches of education taught 
are, reading, writing, and arithmetic, more being seldom required. 
The emoluments of the private teachers arise from school-fees, — 
a school-room and dwelling-house being provided by the people. 
There are no persons in the parish who cannot read, and the young 



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KILMALCOLM. 61 

do SO. remarkably well. All seem alive to the benefit and necessity 
of education. 

Literature. — A circulating library was lately established in the 
parish, which has been in active operation for more than a year. 
Could a fair judgment be formed from the past, it is probable that 
this infant institution may succeed ; but country people, from many 
causes, do not read much. There are no reading-rooms in the pa- 
rish ; but several newspapers circulate, upon all sides of politics. 

Charitable Institutions. — There are no charitable institutions, 
with the exception of a Friendly Society, which a few individuals 
have formed for mutual support. 

Poor. — There are at present 14 poor upon the roll, who re- 
ceive according to their circumstances. Should they be able to 
work a little, they get Is. per week ; and when unable to do any thing 
they are allowed upon an average 2s. Each of them also receives 
a quantity of coals at the new year, equal in value to 10s. When 
sick, a small sum is generally added to their weekly allowance, and 
medical attendance and medicines are provided for them. It is a 
subject of surprise how they manage to live, and make so few com- 
plaints. They, however, do not look upon this kind of charity as 
in any way degrading; and children, in good circumstances, have 
been known to allow their parents to receive it. 

The funds from which the poor are supplied are derived from 
collections at the church doors, fees of proclamations, and the pro- 
fits arising from the letting out of a hearse and mortcloth. The 
deficiency is made up by the heritors, according to their valuations. 

The average annual amount of church collections for the poor 
is about L. 18. 

Fairs. — At present there are no fairs. Some time ago, an an- 
nual fair was held here ; but the only memorial of it now is the 
assembling together of a few people in the village, who spend an 
hour or two in conversing upon the days that are gone by. 

Akhouses. — In this parish, there are seven alehouses. They are 
not all, however, well attended, and it is rarely that the people go 
to excess in drinking. 

Fuel. — Coal and peat are generally used as fuel. The coal is 
at a considerable distance, and is expensive in the carriage. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The moral condition of the people has of late been im- 
proved. The general appearance of the parish is also changed 
for the better. Green fields now appear where formerly stones 



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62 RENFREWSHIRE. 

and brambles were only to be seen. Clumps of planting are 
rising all over the parish, which are already affording shelter, and 
adding beauty to the scenery ; and tracks, on which nothing met 
the view but barren rocks, are now covered with the fir, the birch, 
and the spruce. The manner of cultivating the land is all modern. 
Excellent cattle and good instruments of husbandry abound. It 
may be fairly said, that few places have made more progress in im- 
provement, and there is little doubt that it will continue. 

It is worthy of remark^ that the sacrament of the LfOrd's sup- 
per was dispensed in this parish, by the celebrated John Knox, 
in the house of Finlayston, then belonging to the Earl of Glencairn. 
The cups used upon this occasion were two candlesticks of the 
finest silver. The lower part or sole formed the cup, which was 
screwed into the upper. These cups were used in the parish church 
at the dispensation of the sacrament so long as that family con- 
tinued in the parish. Then they were replaced by four copper cups 
gilt, furnished by the Countess of Glencairn, who, it is said, car- 
ried the silver cups along with her. Report also states that these 
cups are still in the possession of the friends of that family. 

Janimry 1836. 



PARISH OF PORT-GLASGOW. 

PRESBYTERY OF GREENOCK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. JAMES BARR, D.D. MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — This place originally formed part of the adjoining pa- 
rish of Kilmalcolm, and consisted of the small village of Newark, 
so called from the barony of that name which lay in its immediate 
vicinity. The land on which the town stands was, in 1668^ pur- 
chased from Sir Patrick Maxwell of Newark, by the magistrates of 
Glasgow, with a view to provide a convenient harbour for the ves- 
sels belonging to the merchants of that city. In the year 1695, it 
was, by the competent authority, disjoined from Kilmalcolm, and, 
with a few farms in the neighbourhood attached to it, erected into 
a distinct parish, under the name of New Port-Glasgow^ or more 



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PORT-GLASGOW. 63 

commoDly Port-Glasgow, — a name simply expressing the design of 
its erection, as the Port of Glasgow. 

Extent. — In its form, this parish approaches nearly to a square, 
and does not exceed an English mile either in length or breadth. It 
has for its boundaries the river Clyde on the north, the east pa- 
rish of Greenock on the west, and Kilmalcolm both on the east and 
the south. The land presents a very irregular appearance, consist- 
ing chiefly of hills which rise immediately behind the town in two 
successive ridges to a considerable height, and which, covered with 
wood and verdure, exhibit a beautiful object to travellers passing 
along the river, and richly reward the labour of an ascent, by af- 
fording an extensive view of the surrounding country, not surpas- 
sed in grandeur and loveliness even by the most admired scenes of 
which England, and perhaps Europe can boast. From the top of 
these hills, and nearly on a level with it, the parish extends in a 
southerly direction to the distance of about half a-mile, and is divid- 
ed into seven farms, some of them considerable in size, but all of 
them in a very imperfect state of cultivation, and naturally of a cold 
and barren soil By far the most valuable portion of the land of this 
parish lies along the bank of the river, to the extent of about 300 
yards from the water's edge ; the whole of which has long been con- 
verted into garden ground, and furnishes a supply both of vege- 
tables and fruit, excellent in quality, and in quantity much more 
abundant than is required for the use of the inhabitants. 

Climate. — The proiK)rtion of wet weather here, as in other places 
along the coast, has been ascertained to be considerably greater 
than in those districts which lie farther rema?ed from the sea. In 
addition to other causes of a more general nature, the high lands 
in the immediate neighbourhood may have some influence in con- 
tributing to the moisture of the atmosphere. Certain it is that the 
heights above the town have the effect of intercepting the sun's rays, 
and do not permit them to fall on it during nearly six weeks in the 
winter. It would be difficult to specify any diseases which can be 
said to be peculiarly prevalent in this parish. Few places of equal 
extent contain a greater number of very old people ; a circumstance 
which sufficiently indicates the salubrity of the climate. 

River. — The breadth of the river here does not exceed two miles, 
and the greater part of it is dry at low water. But the channel of 
the river in every state of the tide contains a depth of water suffi- 
cient to keep afloat vesseb of the largest dimensions, with their 
full cargo in perfect security. In ordinary tides, the water rises to 



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64 RENFREWSHIRE. 

the height of 9 feet, and to the height of 11 feet in spring-tides* 
Very few fishes are taken at this place, and these only small in size, 
and of the most common kinds. During the winter months, immense 
quantities of sea-fowl frequent the river, including barnacle, teal, 
and other species of the duck tribe. 

IL — Civil History. 

Proprietors. — The landward part of this parish belongs to Mr 
Farquhar of London, who purchased it from Lord Belhaven a few 
years ago. The same gentleman also holds the right of superiority 
over a considerable part of the town, with the gardens adjoining to 
it, upon which he levies an annual feu-duty at the rate of L.2 per 
acre. Of the remaining portion of the town, the superiority is vest- 
ed in the city of Glasgow. The Castle of Newark stands at the 
eastern extremity of the bay to which it has given its name, on a 
point of land projecting into the river, and which commands a mag- 
nificent view of the surrounding scenery. It is built in the castel- 
lated form, and when fortified, must have been a place of great 
strength. The building has been long in a ruinous condition, and 
is now interesting only as a venerable monument of feudal grandeur, 
a memorial of the spirit and character of a barbarous age. 

Toum. — In its general appearance, the town presents an aspect 
of neatness and regularity, not often to be met with. The streets 
are straight, and for the most part cross each other at right angles ; 
while the houses, pretty nearly equal in size, and generally white- 
washed, give to the whole a light and uniform appearance. The 
only modern buildings worthy of notice are the town-house and the 
parish church. Of these the former is of plain but substantial work- 
manship, ornamented in front with a portico, resting on four massy 
fluted pillars, surmounted with a handsome spire, which rises from 
the centre. The ground floor has been chiefly laid out in shops ; 
but the upper story, in addition to the chambers of the council and 
town-clerk, contains a laige and commodious reading-room, with 
several apartments which are occupied as counting«rooms for mer- 
cantile business. The parish church was built in 1823, and con- 
tains accommodation for above 1200 sitters. It is square in form, 
and plain in the outward appearance, but has been much and de- 
servedly admired for the simple elegance of its internal construe- 
tion* The wealthier inhabitants of the place did themselves great 
honour, and set a valuable example to others, by gratuitously con- 
tributing L. 1500 towards the expense of its erection. There are 
two other places of public worship ; the one, a chapel of ease be- 



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PORT-GLASGOW. 65 

longing to the Establishment, capable of accommodating 1500 per- 
sons; the other in connection with the Associate Synod. 

ConstUuHon of the Burgh. — In 1775, a charier was obtained 
from Parliament conferring on the town the privileges of a burgh 
of barony, and granting a constitution which vested the manage- 
ment of its municipal affairs in a council of 13, including 2 bail- 
ies. By the late Burgh Reform Act, the number was reduced 
to 9 ; consisting of a provost, 2 bailies, and 6 councillors. The 
town has by the Reform Bill been elevated to the rank of a Par- 
liamentary burgh. It embrac^es a constituency of 211 qualified 
voters ; and joins with Kilmarnock, Rutherglen, Dumbarton, and 
Renfrew, in sending a Member to Parliament. 

Revenue* — In the year 1834, the revenue amounted to L.1951, 
7s. 7d.,— obtained from the rent of church seats, from a tax on 
houses, from anchorage-dues, dock-dues, the rent of warehouses, 
the sale of gas, flesh and fish markets, and a few other sources of 
public income. About the one-half of this revenue is required to 
pay the interest of an accumulated debt ; and the remainder goes 
to meet the necessary demands for minister's stipend, the salaries 
of public officers, and other expenses incurred in conducting the 
affairs of the town, and promoting the comfort of its inhabitants. 

III. — Population. 
There are no documents from which to ascertain the exact num- 
ber of people that resided in this parish at the time of its erec^ 
tton. In 1700, it did not contain a population of more than 400 
souls; but in ]718, when the first parish church was built, the in- 
habitants amounted to twice that number. From this period the 
population continued steadily, though not rapidly, to increase, un- 
til the year 1790, when it consisted of 4036 persons. In conse- 
quence of the American war, which had an injurious effect on the 
trade of this place, the population underwent a considerable dimi- 
nution; for by the census that took place by order of Government, 

In 1601, it was found to be, 8865 

]811, it amounted to • . .5116 

ia2T, . . . 5262 

1831, . . . 5192 

Comprehending, of males, 2186 ; of females, 9007 

Making, fiimilies, . T279 

Inhabiting houses, • • 400 

Including families employed in agriculture, • 7 

trade and manufactures, 435 

The comparatively slow increase of population in this place, and 
its occasional falling off, may be traced to the fluctuations of fo- 
reign trade, on which it has chiefly depended for its support, and 

RENFREW. E 



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66 RENFREWSHIRE. 

also to the influence of competition, exercised by the neighbouring 
ports of Greenock and Glasgow : but it is proper to add, that the 
trifling decrease which appears in the census of 1831 has been far 
more than made up since that period, as appears from a survey 
taken expressly for this work in the summer of lQ35j and by which 
the population of this town and parish is ascertained to be as fol- 
lows, viz. 

The number of inhabitants, . . 6018 

males, 2856; females, 3162 

families, . . 1332 

persons under IZ) years of age, . 2122 

between 15 and 30, . 1910 

30 and ^0, . 1394 

50 and 70, . 494 

above 70, . . 98 

Character of the People. — The inhabitants of this place are ge- 
nerally well informed, diligent in business, and liberal in chanty. 
They may be characterized also as a church-going people. Dur- 
ing the last year, there were only two prisoners confined upon 
charges of a serious nature, and a few others for minor offences* 
In the year 1790, with a population of 4000, there were no less 
than 81 public-houses in the town. It is gratifying to be able to 
state, that in March 1835, and with a population of about 6000, 
the number of public-houses had been reduced to 70. It would 
be still more gratifying to be able to add, that the practice of in- 
temperance has diminished in the same proportion. Appearances, 
however, do not by any means warrant such a conclusion, and seem 
to indicate, that intemperance never prevailed among the lower 
classes of society to a wider and more alarming extent than in the 
present day. 

The people of this place exhibit all those characters and habits 
which commonly distinguish the inhabitants of sea-port towns. 
Engaged in maritime and mercantile avocations, they cannot be 
expected to have either time or taste for the pursuits of literature ; 
yet many of them have received the advantage of a liberal educa- 
tion, and they are, generally speaking, highly respectable in point 
of intelligence and judgment. Nowhere is the principle of attach- 
ment to the British constitution and government, both in church 
and state, more deeply rooted, more steadfastly maintained, or 
more unequivocally expressed, than among the people of Port- 
Glasgow. Few of them possess great wealth, but a large number 
are in circumstances of independence. The working classes are 
in general well employed, and obtain good wages. Upon the 
whole, all ranks of society may be said to enjoy, in a superior de- 
gree, the means of comfortable subsistence ; and, were they all as 



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PORT-GLASnoW. 67 

provident as they are industrious, the evils of pauperism would be 
confined within very narrow and manageable limits indeed. 

IV. — Industry. 

Manufactures. — The Gourock Rope- work Company have long 
had a branch of their establishment here, for the manufacture both 
of rope and sail-cloth. The canvas factory, which has of late 
been considerably enlarged, gives employment at present to about 
200 men, at 12s. a-week, and 81 boys, at 3s. 6d.; and 71 women, 
at 4s. 6d., and 67 girls; at 3s. 6d. In the rope-work department, 
45 men are employed, each receiving 15s. a-week, assisted by a 
number of boys. In both, the number of workers amounts to 474, 
male and female. 

There are at present only two houses actively engaged in the 
business of sugar-refining. The one, on a comparatively small scale, 
in which the old process of making refined sugar is adhered to. 
In the other, which is of large extent, the new system of refining 
by steam is followed. In connection with these, about 50 men are 
regularly employed within doors, whose wages vary from 12s. to 
L. 1, 10s. per week. 

Ship'Buildinff, — The work of ship-building is carried on here to 
a considerable extent. Of late years the carpenters have been 
chiefly employed in the construction of steam-boats, of which they 
have produced a great number, some of them of the lai^est class, 
and all of them of very superior workmanship. At present this de- 
partment of maritime industry gives employment to nearly 200 men, 
at the rate of about L. 1 or L. 1, Is. a-week, besides a number of 
apprentices. 

Trade. — Vast improvements have in the course of the last few 
years been effected, in deepening the river, and otherwise increas- 
ing its facilities of navigation. These, as was to be expected, have 
proved injurious to the commercial interests of the outports on the 
Clyde. In the year 1811, the coasting trade of Port-Glasgow 
employed 400 vessels and 1300 seamen. Owing to the facility 
with which vessels of inferior burden find their way up the river, 
nearly the whole of this portion of the trade has been transferred 
to Glasgow. The foreign trade of this port may be estimated by 
the following table for the year 1834. The arrivals during that 
year were the following : 





Ships 


carrying Tons, 


From the West Indies, 


26 


6934 


East Indies, 


3 


1040 


British North America, 


dG 


- 17317 


the United Sutes, 


6 


1857 


the Mediterranean, - 


11 


1545 


Making in all. 


—82 


28693 

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68 RENFREWSHIRE. 

During the same year the export trade was carried on to the 

following extent : 

Vateit. Tons, 

To the West Indies, - 29 - 7522 

East Indies, - 12 - 3052 

British North America, SO - 14920 

the United States, . 4 - 1201 

the Mediterranean, - II - 1585 



In all, - 86 . 28530 

The following table presents a comparative view of the foreign 
trade of this port : 

Inxffardi. 
In 1825, the number of vessels was 72, bearing 2] 485 tons. 
1830, - . - 80 - 21972 

1834, ... 82 - 28693 

Outitards. 
1825, . . . 80 . 24791 

1830, ... 86 . 24762 

1834, . . - 86 - 28530 

From the above statement, it appears that the trade of this place, 
notwithstanding the disadvantages with which it has to contend, is 
in a course of steady though not rapid increase. The amount of 
revenue collected at this port has indeed sustained a very large re- 
duction within the last few years. Thus, 

In 1830, the revenue amounted to L. 243,349 3 1 
1832, - - . 185,426 18 6^ 

1834, . - - 140,284 8 10 

This defalcation may, however, be accounted for by simply stat- 
ing the fact, that the duties upon tobacco, which were formerly 
collected here, are now paid in Glasgow, lately constituted a bond- 
ing port for that article; and which duties are more than sufficient 
to make up the deficiency exhibited in the present state of the re- 
venue. 

British manufactures of every description are shipped here in 
large quantities ; and in return all the ordinary articles of foreign 
produce are imported, including tea, which, though it may not add 
greatly to the trade of the port, will probably realize a considerable 
addition of revenue. Port- Glasgow is the principal port on the 
Clyde for the importation of North American timber, for which 
secure and extensive accommodation has been provided in the 
wood-ponds, which are constructed along the shore in the imme- 
diate vicinity of the harbours. The extent to which this branch 
of the trade has been carried on will appear from the subjoined 
account of the quantities imported : 

In 1825 amounting to 19650 tons. 
1829 . 16620 

1834 . 27975 



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PORT-GLASGOW. 69 

In the beginning of the year 1835, the harbours of Port- Glas- 
gow contained vessels which measured in all 12,000 tons, being 
the largest amount of tonnage ever known to have been in this 
port at one time. It may be proper to state, that formerly, the 
trade of this place was almost entirely carried on in ships which 
were the property of merchants in Glasgow. Of late years, how- 
ever, the people of Port- Glasgow have become ship-owners to a 
considerable extent ; and at present about one-fourth part of the 
whole, or above 7000 tons of shipping, belong to individuals resi- 
dent in the town. If that spirit of commercial enterprise which 
has already embarked a large capital in this way, shall continue to 
discover itself as it has done for the last ten years, not only an in- 
crease of trade may be anticipated, but the port will acquire more 
and more of an independent character. 

Harbours. — Attached to this port are two capacious harbours, 
substantially built, and so completely sheltered from the storm that' 
the vessels moored in them have seldom been found to suffer injury 
even from the severest weather. These are furnished with ample 
quay and shed-room, together with a commodious graving-dock, 
the oldest in Scotland, but lately improved at a great expense for 
repairing vessels. The largest vessels that trade to Clyde are 
found at this port, measuring about 600 tons ; a few of them regis- 
ter for upwards of 650 tons ; and all of them carrying nearly double 
the amount of their register tonnage. Yet such is the facility of 
access to the harbour, that these vessels which draw twenty-one 
feet of water, are towed up and down in the channel of the river 
with the greatest ease and in perfect safety. 

Wei^Dock, Sfc. — A very important addition to the harbour accom- 
modation of Port-Glasgow is about to be obtained in the erection 
of wet-docks. The present harbours being found too small for the 
increasing number of ships belonging to the port, the inhabitants 
of the town resolved to avail themselves of their local advantages 
by converting the Bay of Newark, which is naturally adapted to 
the purpose, into a spacious dock, where vessels of the largest class 
might lie securely afloat in every state of the tide. Accordingly, 
the trustees of the harbour obtained an act of Parliament investing 
them with the necessary powers for carrying this desirable object 
into effect; and funds having been procured to the amount of 
L. 35,000, they were enabled to commence the work, which is now 
in rapid progress, with every prospect of being finished by the end 
of this year. This, when completed, will be the only dock of the 



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70 RENFREWSHIRE. 

same kind on the west coast of Scotland ; and, from its large ex- 
tent and spacious quays, with a depth of water equal to twenty-five 
feet alongside of them, will hold out very superior advantages to 
the trade, both in point of security and convenience. 

A pretty correct idea may be formed of the improving trade of 
this port, by a reference to the amount of harbour revenue collect- 
ed during some of the preceding years. The revenue derived from 
the harbour in 1831, amounted to L. 1454, Os. 9d. ; in 1834, to 
L. 1639, 6s. The charges levied at this port are all on the most 
moderate scale, and fall very considerably below the rates imposed 
at the neighbouring ports of Greenock and Glasgow. To mer- 
chants engaged in the trade of Clyde, the harbour of Port- Glas- 
gow now presents the double advantage of comparatively low charges 
and vastly superior accommodation. 

Besides, the privileges of the warehousing system at this port 
are on a footing equal to those of any other port in the kingdom. 
Warehouse-room is provided on a very extensive scale, and is open 
for the general accommodation of the trade on very moderate terms. 
The buildings are all of stone, and, with one exception, they are 
all of special security. In addition to the regular bonded ware- 
houses, there is a large area for receiving wood into bond, and an 
excellent warehouse for crushing refined sugars, in which large 
quantities of that article are prepared for exportation to the Me- 
diterranean markets. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church stands in a very con- 
venient situation, and is in excellent repair. It afibrds accommo- 
dation for 1260 sitters, including 50 free sittings for the poor, and 
is ordinarily attended by a congregation of about 1150 persons. 
The present stipend of the minister, as fixed in 1823, is L. 250, 
with an allowance of L. 27 yearly for a house, and L. 3 for a gar- 
den. The sum of L. 5 is allowed for communion elements ; and, 
to meet the expenses of an additional communion in the winter, the 
sum of L. 15 is granted. The average revenue actually drawn for 
seat-rents in the parish church during the last ten years has been at 
the rate of L. 489, 16s. per annum. For some years a parochial 
missionary has been employed here, whose salary is raised by con- 
tributions from the congregation connected with the parish church. 
In the year 1774, a chapel of ease was built in this place, capable 
of accommodating 1500 sitters, and which for a long time conti- 



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POUT-GLASGOW. 71 

nued to be well attended ; but for many years the number of stated 
hearers has not, it would seem, at an average exceeded 200 per- 
sons of all ages. The minister of the chapel has secured to him 
by bond a salary of L. 100 a-year. 

This parish contains only one dissenting place of worship, which 
is in connection with the Associate Synod. It accommodates about 
800, and is attended by a congregation amounting to about one- 
half of that number. Not less than 1600 persons professedly be- 
long to the Established Church. Of these there are in full com- 
munion with the church, 1325 ; communicants with the Dissenters 
are d51 ; Roman Catholics, 332. 

It cannot be alleged that there is any want of church accommo- 
dation in this parish, for there are in it places of worship capable 
of containing one-half of the inhabitants ; yet the fact has been 
recently ascertained, that 833, or about one-seventh part of the 
whole population, have not seats in any place of worship, are mem- 
bers of no Christian congregation, and do not observe even the 
forms of a religious profession. 

Societies for religious purposes exist here in great variety, and 
are in general respectably supported ; including a Bible Society, 
Auxiliary Missionary and Gaelic School Societies, with many others, 
— the joint revenue of which may be estimated at about L. 150 per 
annum. A Seaman's Friend Society was lately instituted, which 
promises to be productive of much good. The formation of a Sail- 
ors' library has commenced under most favourable auspices. Every 
ship that leaves the harbour carries a small tin box, furnished by 
the society, containing several copies of the Scriptures, and a few 
other approved religious publications for the use of the men while 
at sea. The people of this place are honourably distinguished for 
liberality in promoting every object of Christian benevolence. In 
addition to the sums privately contributed, the collections at the 
door of the parish church for religious and charitable purposes, 
exclusive of what was collected for the parochial poor, must have 
amounted to upwards of L. 100 during the last year. 

Edtication, — There are altogether eight schools at present taught 
in this parish. Formerly three masters were provided by the Cor- 
poration, with a salary of L. 20 per annum to each, who superin- 
tended the classical, the commercial, and the English departments 
respectively. Lately, however, two of these situations having be- 
come vacant, the magistrates considered it necessary to discontinue 
both salaries, and to resolve, that in future there shall be only ono 



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72 RENFREWSHIRE. 

endowed or parochial teacher, with the usual allowance of L. 20 
for his salary. This arrangement will no doubt be attended with 
a small saving to the public funds, but it can hardly fail to prove 
unpropitious to the cause of education, and consequently injurious 
to the best interests of the community. The fees for the different 
branches of instruction are not the same in all the schools, but 
vary from ds. 6d. to 10s. 6d. per quarter. In addition to the one 
parochial, and six private schools, there is a charitable institution^ 
commonly called Beaton's school, from the name of its founder 
David Beaton, who in 1814, left the munificent bequest of L. 1400, 
to be laid out in building and endowing a school for the education 
of poor orphan children. Upwards of 150 children of both sexes 
receive instructbn here in all the common branches of education, 
and a number more at the trij9ing charge of 2s. per quarter. The 
teacher has a fixed annual salary of L. 60, with a free house. 

It is difiicult to ascertain with accuracy the number of unedu- 
cated children in a community, owing to the reluctance which pa* 
rents naturally feel to make a discovery which would criminate 
themselves. The following calculation, however, is the result of 
a very careful inquiry. Persons between six and fifteen not taught to 
read, 10,5; do. taught to read, but not write, 436; above fifteen 
not taught to read, 10. This statement, it is to be feared, does 
not by any means show the full extent of the uneducated popula« 
tion, yet it sufficiently proves the importance of an increase in the 
means of education, and particularly of cheap education, to meet 
the wants of the people. It seems absolutely necessary that a 
school should be erected, in which the children of sailors, and of 
the poorer classes generally, might be furnished with useful instruct 
tion at such a rate of wages as their parents can afford to pay. 

Libraries. — The library for the use of seamen, recently insti- 
tuted in this place, has been already mentioned. There are two 
other libraries, the one of a general and miscellaneous nature, the 
other a youth's library, which consists exclusively of religious pub- 
lications. 

Provident Bank. — In the year 1818^ a provident-bank was^^esta- 
blished here under the sanction of the corporation. The following 
statement, applicable to the year 1834, may serve to shew the ex- 
tent of its operations. The money deposited in that year amount- 
ed to L. 1481, 18s. and the sums withdrawn during the same pe- 
riod to L. 1328, 8s. 7d. When it is considered that the deposits 
consist chiefly of small sums lodged by servants and other classes of 
working people, it will be seen that this institution must have been 

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PORT-GLASGOW. 73 

largely taken advantage of by those for whose benefit it was de- 
signed, and has in fact proved a great blessing to the community. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — Above 170 persons at an average 
receive stated relief from the parish. To each of these a weekly 
allowance is given of from 9d* to 2s« a-week, according to circum- 
stances, and a considerable number of them receive additional aid 
to the amount of from L. 1, 5s. to L. 2 a-year, in the shape of 
house rent. A large item in the expenditure is incurred by the 
support of orphan children, amounting at present to above 20 
in number, each of whom costs the parish nearly L. 6 in the year 
for board and clothing. With a view to check intemperance 
among the poor, and secure for them at least one substantial meal 
in the day, it was resolved a few years ago to try the use of a per- 
manent soup-kitchen. A commodious place was fitted up for the 
purpose, where eighty quarts, at an average, of excellent broth 
have been dealt out to the poor every day. Sabbath excepted. A 
ticket bearing the value of one penny entitles the pauper to a quart 
of soup and a halfpenny roll of bread, which together are worth 
three halfpence. Some of the poor people would prefer to have 
the money at their own disposal, but they are in general well pleas- 
ed ; and, on the whole, the experiment has fully realized the ad- 
vantages that were expected to result from it, and may be consi- 
dered to have demonstrated the utility of the plan, both in regard 
to comfort and economy. 

The maintenance of the poor in this parish, as in most other 
sea-port towns, is attended with a very heavy expense. For seve- 
ral years past the amount of expenditure has averaged about 
L. 600 a-year. But this large sum is raised by the inhabitants 
without having recourse to the aid of an assessment. With the 
exception of what is derived from the interest of a small sum of 
money, from the rent of a house, from charges for proclamation of 
banns, and the use of a mortcloth, and some other incidental 
sources of revenue, — ^with these trifling exceptions, the whole 
amount is contributed by voluntary collections at Che doors of the 
churches. In the year 1834, there was collected at the parish 
church L.384, Ids. 9^., at the chapel of Ease, L. 17, Os. ll^d. 
by the Dissenters, L.d, ds« Id. From this statement it appears 
that the members of the Established Church, who constitute about 
three-fourths of the church-going population, contribute nearly 
49-50thsof what is required for the maintenance of the parochial 
poor. 



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74 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

Perhaps there is no town in the kingdom of equal magnitude 
which has undergone less change in its character and circumstan- 
ces since the former Statistical Account of Scotland appeared 
than that of Port-Glasgow. Had the improvements now going 
on upon the harbour been effected twenty years ago, the place 
would undoubtedly have advanced much more rapidly than it has 
done, in extent and importance* What shall be the effect of these 
improvements, whether, as may reasonably be anticipated, they 
shall attract a larger portion of foreign trade, and at the same time 
give an additional impulse to the spirit of domestic enterprise, 
time alone will determine. 

Janvuiry 1836. 



PARISH OF LOCHWINNOCH. 

PRESBYTERY OF PAISLEY, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. ROBERT SMITH, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name, — The name seems to refer to the large loch in the neigh- 
bourhood of the village, and to the principal island which it con- 
tains, — Innich being the genitive case of the Celtic word Innisy 
which signifies a small island. This etymology is confirmed by the 
fact, that a number of names of places in the parish are of Celtic 
derivation ; and it agrees nearly with the manner in which its name 
is pronounced by its present inhabitants, as well as with some of 
the ways in which it was anciently spelled.* 

Extent^ Boundaries. — This parish is said by Robertson to be 
12 miles long from east to west, and where broadest about 6 miles 
from north to south, — which is very near the truth. It contains 
about 19250 English acres. Its figure, though irregular, is not un- 
like the head section of a fish or serpent It is bounded on the 
south by Beith ; on the west by Kilbimie and Kilmalcolm ; on the 

* I haye seen almost forty difTerent ways of spelling Lochwinnoch taken by Dr 
A. Crawfurd, a native of the parish, from books and AISS. from 1504 down to the 
present day, of which the following are a few examples, Lochvinyoch, I.<ochquhin- 
yoch, Lochwhinoch) Lochineach, I^ochwinioch, Lochwinnoch. 

•f" Description of the shire of Renfrew, &c.p. 348. 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 75 

north by Kilbarchan ; and on the east by the Abbey parish of Pais- 
ley and Neilston. * 
Topographical Appearances. — Its surface is very irregular and 
hilly. The highest hills in the county are situated in its western 
extremity. There is a range of hills stretching along the west 
coast from Greenock to Ardrossan. The highest of these are the 
Misty Law and the hill of Staik, the former of which is in this 
parish, and the latter forms its western boundary. The Misty 
Ijaw is said, in the former Statistical Account, to be 1246 feet above 
the level of the sea, and the hill of Staik, it is now ascertained, 
is somewhat more. Their heights were taken some time ago by 
order of Government. The prospect from the Misty Law is said, 
in the Account just now referred to, " to be extensive and varied 
over twelve counties, including the Frith of Clyde, and the islands 
of Arran, Bute, Ailsa, &c This hill is surrounded by the moor- 
land part of the parish, which abounds with game, and affords to- 
lerable pasture for sheep." There is another range of high land pas- 
sing through the eastern part of the parish, which stretches from be- 
yond Paisley towards the western coast. This has been justly 
called table-land, and almost the whole of it within this parish is 
arable. Amongst the western hills, there are many small, and 
some beautiful and romantic valleys ; but the principal valley lies 
between the two ranges of elevated land, on the north and south 
sides of the IocIl It stretches from beyond Dairy, through Kil- 
bimie, Lochwinnoch, and Kilbarchan, and terminates in the east- 
em part of the great vale of Renfrewshire or Strathgryfe, which 
lies on the west of Paisley, and contains many thousands of acres 
of rich and valuable land. In the long and expansive valley which 
passes through Lochwinnoch, there were originally three large 
lochs, — Kilbirnie, Barr, and Castle-Semple lochs, the two last of 
which are within this parish. At an earlier period, when the land 
was not so well drained and cultivated as it is at present, these three 
lochs were sometimes, during a great fall of rain in winter, united, 
and formed an extensive sheet of water, stretching several miles 
along this beautiful valley. This never happens now. Castle- 
Semple and Kilbirnie lochs always contain a considerable expanse 
of water; but they are now far separated by cultivated land; and 
Barr Loch, which lies between them, and near the former, is so 
well drained, that it has the appearance of a loch only during a 
heavy fall of rain in winter. In summer, it waves with the most 



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76 RENFUEWSHIRE. 

luxuriant crops of oats and hay, which would not disgrace a more 
gonial clime and southern latitude. 

Robertson's description of the appearance of the parish is as 
follows : " Lochwinnoch is greatly diversified in its general aspect. 
Part of it consists of high and bleak hills in the back ground ; part 
of it is a low winding valley, in general of a very fertile soil ; and 
in the heart of it, is the largest loch or lake in the county. This 
valley, with the shelving country towards it on both sides, contains 
nearly the whole population. It is also ornamented with plan* 
tations, whilst the houses of its numerous small proprietors are 
each set down under the shade of a few old trees in the midst of 
well cultivated spots of ground. The whole strath has a warm and 
cheerful appearance. It is the very vale of Tempo of Renfrew- 
shire." 

This ** vale of Tempo," however, merits a more particular de» 
Bcription. If you view it from the west at any elevated spot on 
the road to Kilbirnie, the prospect is varied and beautiful. You 
have the well-cultivated lands around you, and the rising ground 
on each side, particularly on the west, where the hills rise gradu- 
ally above one another till they terminate in the Misty Law and hill 
of Staik. Immediately in front, are seen the remains of Barr 
Castle, long the residence of the successive families who possessed 
the neighbouring lands, and near it Barr House, the residence of 
William Macdowall of Gurthland, Esq. the present proprietor, 
surrounded by thriving plantations and well-cultivated fields. Be- 
yond both of these, is the large and regular, sheltered and flour- 
ishing village of Lochwinnoch. But by far the most remarkable 
feature of the prospect is Castle- Semple Loch, the ruins of the Peel, 
and the adjacent scenery. On the south side of the Loch are seen 
Lochside, Beltrees, and, in the distance, Bowfield, with a shelving 
country, bestudded with houses, and ornamented with plantations. 
On the north side of the Loch, appears the whole policy of Castle- 
Semple, the most beautiful and extensive in this part of the coun- 
try. But from this point the view of it is imperfect. You have a 
general prospect of the woods and grounds of Castle- Semple, and 
of the hill of Kenmure in the back ground, surmounted by the 
Temple, like an observatory, erected on an eminence which rises 
abruptly out of the valley. In order to see the scenery of Castle- 
Semple to advant^e, it must be viewed from the rising ground on 
the south side of the loch. There you have another and striking 
view of Castle- Semple and Barr lochs, the village, and Barr Castle, 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 77 

but more especially of the whole policy of Castle- Semple. This, 
which is surrounded on the north by a high wall, three or four miles 
long, is laid out with the greatest skill. It contains about 900 
acres, subdivided into a great number of enclosures, and pervaded 
by above twelve miles of roads and walks ; and, above all, it is orna- 
mented with many large plantations and scattered trees. The 
eminences are crowned with woods, which in some places descend 
into the valleys, and exhibit a delightful variety of elevation, as well 
as of shade. In some places there are rows of trees, and solitary 
trees are here and there scattered over the lawns. Even the back 
ground and distant scenery add to the beauty of the policy. The 
heights are covered with plantations, which are disposed with 
the greatest skill and the best effect The scene is as varied as it 
is at every point beautiful. In moving along the face of the elevat- 
ed ground, on the south side of the loch, the prospect is con- 
stantly varying under the eye, and is everywhere delightful. The 
House of Castle- Semple, the residence of Colonel Harvey, the 
present proprietor, being built in 1735, is not equal to the situa- 
tion which it occupies, though a neat small mansion. But the 
gardens on the rising ground a little to the north of the house are 
one of the best features of the landscape. These gardens were 
lately formed at very great expense. They contain two large' en- 
closures, surrounded and subdivided by high walls, covered with 
fruit trees. Along the cross walls in the centre there is a great 
extent of glass-house ; containing not merely vines, peach trees, &c. 
but a variety of flowers and shrubs. On the north side of the gar- 
den there is a large pinery, and behind it a stove house for propa- 
gating tropical plants and shrubs. On the south side there is a large 
green-house ; and in the fore-ground an extensive flower-garden, 
surrounded with shrubbery, and subdivided into plots of diflerent 
forms, and planted with shrubs and flowers of every name and hue, 
encircled by grassy borders, and pervaded by gravel walks, " shaven 
with the scythe and levelled with the roller." In the north-east 
side of this fine garden there is an extensive rockery, covered with 
rock-plants, and encircling a pond, in whose waters a multitude 
of gold and silver fish play, and from whose centre a beautiful 
jetteau rises. I understand that, though there are some gardens 
more extensive, and others more remarkable in one or another de- 
partment, yet there are few formed on a better plan, and in all re- 
spects more complete and excellent 

Meteorology. — At the gardens of Castle- Semple, there has been 



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78 RENFREWSHIRE. 

for years past, carefully marked every day, the height of the ther- 
mometer and barometer morning and evening ; and the water re- 
ceived by two rain-guages ; the direction in which the wind blows, 
and the state of the weather. From this meteorological journal 

I subjoin the following extracts and calculations : 

1829. 

Thermometer, average height throughout the year at 8 a. u. - 47.98 

do. do at 8 p. M. " 46.7 

greatest height in the course of that year, . 73. 

lowest range, - - - - 12. 

average height in the month of June at 8 a. m. - 61.7 

do. do. at 8 p. M. - 58.966 

do. in the month of December at 8 a. m. 37.355 

do. do. at 8 P.M. - 35.839 

Barometer, average height throughout the year at 8 a. m • - 29.682 

1830. 

Tliermomcter, average height throughout the year at 8 a. m . - 48.773 

do. do. at 8 P.M. - 46.9 

greatest height in the course of that year, . 68. 

lowest range, ...... 12. 

average height in the month of June at 8 a. m. 58.2 

do. do. at 8 P.M. 54-166 

do. in the month of December at 8 a. m. 37.451 

do. do. at 8 p. m. 37.354 

Barometer, average height throughout the year at 8 a. m. - 29.545 

Isle of Man,* 

No. of Day t. Weather. 

Year. Ther. Med. Wind. No. of day t. Rain. 

A. M. P.M. AT. S. E. W. Rain. Snow. Fair. Inches 

1829, 48° 4&' 102 91 110 62 135 13 217 33.89 

1830, 48.8 46.9 83 104 84 94 167 15 183 3&55 

Aberdeen. 

1829, 46.62 - 2a66 

1830, 46.81 30.60 

From the two rain-guages already mentioned, very different re- 
sults are obtained. I have made my calculations from the one 
which stands nearest the surface of the earth, and which receives 
more rain than the other, which, by its elevation, is more exposed 
to the wind, and, therefore, I apprehend, does not give so fair a 
result. 

In 1827, there fell during the whole year, 46*86 inches. 

1828, 54.94 

1829, 39.85 

1830, .... 53.51 

To mark the difference of the two guages, and to shew the at- 
tention which should be paid to the situation of such instruments, 
I may mention, that the quantity of rain received by the other in 
1830 was only 43.95. I believe this is also an inferior instrument 
to the other. It is obvious, therefore, that, if I had made my cal- 

* I have seen similar sUtements made in the Isle of Man and at Aberdeen, during- 
these two years, which it may be interesting and useful to contrast with the one just 
now given. 

4 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 79 

culations from this guage, it would not have appeared that such 
an immense quantity of rain falls in this neighbourhood : still it is 
not to be denied that the quantity is great. It will immediately 
appear that it is very much the same with that which falls at Largs, 
where observations of this kind were long made by Sir Thomas 
Brisbane, at Brisbane House. We are separated from that parish 
by the high-land about Misty Law and Staik, which attract the 
vapour rising out of the great Atlantic Ocean, and condense it into 
rain, and send it down with impartial favour, upon us, and the inha- 
bitants of Largs. Though a great quantity, however, falls in the 
neighbourhood of our high hills ; yet it appears from a statement 
in Wilson's Account of Renfrewshire, that the whole west part of 
Scotland is not deluged with so much rain. The following is his 
report for 1809 and 1810, at the four following places : 

Yearw* Dalkeith, BothweU Castle, Ghtgotc. Largt. 

1809 28.552 24.440 25.132 38.624 

1810 25.636 25.010 21.4a3 38.714 

From this statement it will be seen that more rain falls at Dal- 
keith than at either Glasgow or BothweU Castle. Mr Wilson him- 
self remarks, that, ^^ although it thus appears that the quantity of 
rain in the west of Renfrewshire is considerable, it is certainly far 
short of that which falls annually at Lancaster, Manchester, Ken- 
dal, and Keswick, which is 40.3, 43.1, 61.2, 70.6 inches respective- 
ly. The quantity of rain is not so much to be dreaded as its fre- 
quency." 

The direction in which the wind blows morning and evening at 
eight o'clock, and the state of the weather, morning, noon, and even- 
ing, as cloudy, wet, or fair, are noted in the journal from which 
I have already quoted. This last record impressed me more than 
ever with the idea of the lowering aspect of our sky. There is a 
succession of cloudy, hazy, showery, and wet, but comparatively 
little sunshine and fair weather. In 1827, the vnnd was westerly 
seven months, southerly three, and northerly two. And there fell 
46.86 inches of rain, so that the westerly wind does not bring such 
a quantity of rain as it produces frequent showers. Little comes 
from the north, and an east rain usually continues two or three days. 

In 1828, the wind was southerly six months, westerly four, north- 
east one, and east one, and there fell 54.94 inches of rain, so that 
the prevailing south wind produced more rain than the prevailing 
west wind of the former year. 

In 1829, the wind was northerly four months, westerly four, 
southerly 2, and north-west two, and there fell 39.85 inches of 



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80 RENFREWSHIRE. 

rain, — the north wind bringing less rain than fell in either the pre- 
ceding or following year. 

In 1830, which might be emphatically called the wet year, the 
wind was remarkably variable, but it secured for us a large quan* 
tity of rain, by blowing from the south five months, from the west 
two, south-west one, north-west two, north one, and north-east one, 
and there fell 55.51 inches of rain. 

After what has been said, it is scarcely necessary to remark, that 
the climate here is moist, but it does not seem to affect materially 
the health of the inhabitants. It is a curious fact, that they were 
remarkably healthy during the wet year, 1830. There were only 
60 deaths in the course of that year out of a population of 4500, 
which was considerably less than had occurred for many years ; 
but they habitually enjoy good health. The water gathered in 
the high-land is fully impregnated with moss, which is strongly an- 
tiseptic, and destroys the marsh miasmata which rise out of the 
loch and neighbouring valley. This is supposed to be our secu- 
rity against agues and other diseases, which elsewhere prevail in 
similar situations, and the reason why our people enjoy so much 
health... The inhabitants of the high-lands enjoy sunshine and 
fresh air when the valley is often covered with a dense fog. But, 
on the other hand, those of the valley sustain little injury from a 
fog which is not loaded with marsh miasmata, — are protected on 
all hands by the neighbouring hills, — and usually enjoy a remark- 
ably mild climate. So much is this the case, that Lochwinnoch has 
often been resorted to mth advantage by delicate persons during 
summer, for whom the sea air was too keen. Many instances of 
longevity occur here. * 

t have been furnished with an account of the patients and dis- 
eases which came under the care of the surgeon here, who had the 
greater part of the practice in this place. It extended from the 
beginning of January 1817 to the 22d October 1819. It must be 

* In the former Statistical Account, the following case is mentioned : " Margaret 
Paton, who was bom in this parish, is mentioned by Lynch on Health as a remark* 
Me instance of longeyity. Her picture, and a print from it, which the writer of this 
account has seen, were done from the life by J. Cooper in 1739, with the following 
inscription : *' Margaret Patton,bom in the parish of Loghnugh, near Paisley, in Scot- 
land, living in the workhouse of St Margaret's, Westminster, aged 138 years.*" 

Margaret was born in the Cottar Raw at Risk, and it may be noticed, that John 
King died at Risk, about tweWe years ago, aged ninety-three years. His brother 
James died at Beltrees a few years after, about the same age ; and Robert SempiU, 
the last of the Sempills of Beltrees, died in 1789, aged 103 years. Elizabeth Jami- 
son, who died about the end of 1830 at Burthills, was almost ninety- nine years of age; 
and one Ruthven, an old soldier, died at Glasshill in 1812, aged 111. 

3 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 81 

remembered, however, that there was then not merely a population 
of about 4000 in this place, but he had many patients in neighbour- 
ing parishes. He had altogether 785 cases, and the following were 
the diseases that most frequently occurred : Fever. — Continued 
fever, 84; typhus or nervous, 20 ; inflammatory, 18; biliary, 12; 
total, 134. — Peripneumony, 85; catarrhs, 33; colics, 21 ; con- 
sumption, 19; rose, 18; headach, 18; enteritis, 17; rheumatism, 
16; children's complaints, 114. 

It may help to elucidate the subject still farther, to give the 
following statement : There were in 1828 ninety-five deaths, the 
greatest number I have known in one year, though the summer was 
warm and genial; still-born, 6; below 10 years of age, 35; from 
10 to 20, 5; from 20 to 30, 4; from 30 to 60, 11 ; from 60 to 
70, 17 ; above 70, 17 ; total, 95. In January, 3 deaths; Febru- 
ary, 8; March, 10; April, 8; May, 10; June, 8; July, 13; Au- 
gust, 1 1 ; September, 1 1 ; October, 7 ; November, 3 ; Decem- 
ber, a 

It will thus be seen that there were more deaths during the fine 
summer of this year than during the winter ; but this fact, and the 
health of the inhabitants during the wet year, 1830, I should think 
rather anomalies than fair specimens of the effects of wet and 
warm weather. 

Hydrography, — Springs are numerous throughout the parish, 
but none are of a remarkable character. The village is at all sea- 
sons well supplied in this manner with good water, which rises out 
of the sandy soil upon which it is built. In other places they flow 
from almost every kind of rock. Springs impregnated with carbo- 
bonate of iron are found in the Misty Law moor and elsewhere. 
There is a spouting spring strongly impregnated with this substance 
in a bank a little west from Barr Castle. It rises from an opening 
made in the earth when mining for coal, and at one time spouted 
two or three feet above the ground. Now it is covered with a pump, 
and used as a well by a family in the neighbourhood, who are very 
sensible of the peculiarity of its taste, and the excellence of its qua- 
lities. 

The only large lake in the parish is Castle- Semple Loch, which 
was once much larger than at present, but it still covers about 200 
acres of ground. Its length is much greater than its breadth. It 
contains three small wooded islets, and is surrounded by the beau- 
tiful scenery of Castle- Semple, already described. The mansion- 
house stands on its north side, near its eastern extremity. It is fur- 

RENFREW. F 



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82 RENFREWSHIRE. 

nished with swans, Cape and Canadian geese in vast numbers, 
ducks, teals, and other kinds of water-fowl, and contains pike, 
perches, and other kinds of fish. " Queenside Loch is situated on 
the moors, and contains about 21 acres; it forms an excellent re- 
servoir for supplying two large cotton mills in the village of Loch- 
winnoch."* Waws Loch is in the opposite extremity of the parish. 
It is small, and remarkable only for its situation and the quantity 
of water lilies (NympJuEa alba) which it produces. 

The only river that runs wholly within the parish is the Calder, 
which rises on- the borders of Ayrshire, amongst the high-lands 
so often mentioned. It runs principally in a south-eastern direction, 
and pursues a very winding course. Owing to the height of its 
source, it descends over various elevations, and forms in different 
places beautiful waterfalls. Its banks, as it approaches the village, 
are exceedingly picturesque, and are adorned with wood, both na- 
tural and planted. After passing through these beautiful banks, 
which are celebrated by Wilson, the American ornithologist, it 
winds round the west and southern extremities of the village of 
Lochwinnoch, and, turning to the east, falls into Castle- Semple 
LK)ch, keeping up a constant current through it, and maintaining 
its salubrity. When it issues from this loch it obtains the name of 
Black Cart, which is a dark, level and slow-running stream. It 
forms the boundary between Lochwinnoch and Kilbarchan from its 
source, till it leaves the parish. The Dubbs flows through level 
meadow land from Kilbirnie Loch to Castle- Semple, and though it 
be not much elevated above the level of the sea, yet it is the sum- 
mit from which the adjacent streams pursue different courses to the 
sea. Those upon its west side proceed directly westward to the 
coast, but those upon its east side fall into the Black Cart, which 
flows in a north-easterly direction, till it join the White Cart at 
Inchinnan, whose united waters proceed in a north-west direction, 
till they fall into the Clyde a little below Renfrew. 

Geology. — There is no very remarkable feature in the geology 
of this parish. The rocks are generally of secondary trap, afford- 
ing almost innumerable varieties of greenstone, basalt, amygdaloid, 
porphyry, &c. which run into eadh other by endless gradations. 
There are neither primitive nor transition rocks in it. Green- 
stone stratified with claystone, and with freestone overlying coal, is 
found at Hallhill, where there is also crystallized freestone. The 
crystals are cubical, contained in the freestone, and form an integral 

* Former Statistical Account. 
3 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 83 

part of it, with many petrifactions of what seem to have been arbores- 
cent ferns. Their stems are now sandstone, and their bark is con- 
verted into carbon. This freestone overlies the coal and stratified 
^enstone. The range of hills, of which the Misty Law and Hill 
of Staik are the highest, is mostly formed of porphyry toward the 
top, which is capped with greenstone, intersecting the porphyry in 
innumerable dikes. Carbonate of copper is found in small quan- 
tities in nests at Kame, contained in whinstone ; and veins of sul- 
phate of barytes are common in the secondary trap rocks. These 
veins are from 6 inches to 14 or 16 feet thick. Their directions 
are various. Trap tufia is found in a few instances among the por- 
phyry, in which it seems imbedded, but its relation to it is not easily 
traced. It is composed of the fragments of the surrounding por- 
phyry and greenstone, cemented together by a paste apparently 
composed of these rocks and oxide of iron. 

Overlying the secondary trap in the lower part of the parish is 
the coal formation, consisting of the usual series of freestone, iron- 
stone, shale, &C. dipping generally to the south-west. This forma- 
tion partly surrounds the beautiful loch of Castle- Semple, and con- 
tinues without interruption into Ayrshire, around Kilbimie Loch, 
and onward to Ardrossan. This formation, however, is limited 
within the parish to a very small compass, and the working of coal 
has not been found a very profitable speculation, as it is intersect- 
ed with many dikes and troubles. The thickest bed known is at 
Hallhill, where it varies from 6 to 10 feet; the other beds are from 
a few inches to 2 or 3 feet thick. It may be remarked, that the 
coal strata which dip towards the south-west, crop out in an op- 
posite direction near the foot of Castle- Semple Loch ; but the stra- 
tified rocks on the northern side of the loch scarcely reach this 
point, being cut off by the insulated rock of f he Hill of Kenmure, 
which does not belong to the coal formation, but is composed of 
secondary trap. 

Limestone, which abounds in organic remains, is wrought by 
mining at Howwood, and a similar limestone was formerly wrought 
at Midtown. The organic remains found in it consist chiefly of bi- 
valve shells, some of which are very rare species, Coralloids, En- 
trochi, Encrini, &c. Although limestone has been wrought on a 
small scale in several instances, yet the quantity known to exist is 
very limited in extent ; and at two places, Garpel and Midtown, 
has been fairly wrought out 

The minerals found in this parish are numerous, and a good many 



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84 RENFREWSHIRE. 

belong to the Zeolite family. Some of them, as white prehnite, 
are very beautiful. I have been furnished with the following list, 
which comprehends the greater number of them. 

Species. Localities, 

Agate, (var. fortification agate,) Edge, Glenward, Misty Law raoor, &c. 
Amethyst, Misty Law moor and Glenward. 
Amygdaloid, common. 

AnaJcim^, crystallized at Linthills and in Calderb&nk. 
Arragonite, in small crystals at Linthills. 

Augite, common, plentiful in trap rocks of secondary formation. 
Barytes, sulphate of, (lamellar,) Raith -water, Kame, Knows, and near Cruckhill. 
Bitumen, Garpal lime quarry. 

Carbonized wood, Hallbill, Garpal, &c. in sandstone. 
Carburetted hydrogen gas, Hallhill coal -work. 
Chabasie, Maich water. 
Chalcedony, common, Misty Law moor. 

.^—^ »var. camelian, Glenward, Misty Law moor. 

Clay, variegated, Camphill-burn. 
Clay stone, common. 
Clinkstone, Ruch-bum, Sec, common. 
Coal, cannel, (var. splent-coal,) Hallhill. 

slaty, Hallhill. 

coarse, How-wood, &c. 

Copper, pyritous, near Cloak. 

green carbonate of, Kame, Tandlemoor. 

Felspar, common, red, Misty Law moor. 
Green earth. Edge, Calderbank, &c. 
Greenstone, common. 

porphyritic, not uncommon. 

Hornblende, basaltic, Misty Law moor. 
Hornstone, Misty Law moor, in small quantities. 
Iron, common sulphuret of, Hallhill. 

red oxide of, (var. red hematite,) Berrieglen, 

— — argillaceous oxide of, (var. bog ore,) common. 
Ironstone, compact brown, Loch Banks. 
(var. lenticular,) Loch Banks. 

Jasper, common, Dunshill, Langyard, Tandlemoor, &c. 
— — striped, Misty Law moor, rare. 
Laumonite, Edge-brae, Calderbank, &c. 

Lime, carbonate of, (subsp. crystallized calcareous spar, of the form commonly called 
Dog-tooth spar,) Netherhouses, Berrieglen, How- wood, &c. 
. —(subsp. laminated calcareous spar,) not unconmion, as at the How- 
wood, &c. 

— 7"- (subsp. fibrous limestone,) in very small quantities in Calderbank. 

————— (sub^. compact limestone,) How- wood, Langyard, &c. 

(subsp. concreted, var. calcareous incrustations,) not uncommon, 

on some rocks. 

(subsp. brown spar,) crystallized in the Misty Law moor. 

Manganese, oxide of, (earthy,) common in small quantities in whin rocks. 

— (crystallized,) Ruch-burn. 

Mica, lamellar, Barr quarry, &c. in freestone. 

Porcellanite, road from the village to the Langyard. 

Porphyry, Misty Law moor, Auchinhane, &c. 

Quartz, common crystallized. Misty Law moor, Calderbank, &c. 

• (var. rock-crystals,) in small crystals in the Mi^ty Law moor, the Glenward, 

and at the Cruckhill. 
Slate, argillaceous, (var. shale,) Loch Banks, Milbankburn. 

■ (var. novaculite,) Loch-head* 

Steatite, common, Loanhead, Calderbank. 
StUbite, red foliated, Calderbank, large specimens. 

Trap-tuffu, above the mouth of Raith- water in Caldcr-water, also at the foot of the 
Ruch-burn. 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 85 

Specie^. Loca^iies. 
Wacke, Misty Law moor, abundant. 
Zeolite, common. High Barnaich. 
needle, High Bamaich, &c. 

Besides the minerals and rocks which exist in their natural situ- 
ations, there are others of which only fragments are found. These 
are chiefly of the primitive rocks, and the most numerous are gra- 
nite, syenite, mica siate, and quartz rock; and of the transition rocks, 
greywacke.* 

Botany, — This parish the botanist will find interesting. The 
following list enumerates our rarer plants : 

Hippuris vulgaris. Alisina Plantago and lanceolata. 

Ligusdiim vulgare. Epilobium angustifblium and palustrc. 

Pinguicuia Tulgaris. Vaccinium Oxycocoos. 

Circoa Lutetiana. Polygonum amphibiuro, var. aquaticura. 

Veronica scutellata. Paris quadrifolia. 

Seirpus lacustris and pauciflorus. Adoxa moschatellina. 

Arundo Phragmites. Saxifraga hypnoides. 

Aira flexuosa. Stellaria nemora and glauca. 

Aira pneooz. Sedum Telephium, villosum, and An- 

Holcus avenaceus. glicum. 

Nardus stricta. Arenaria rubra. 

Briza media. Spergula nodosa. 

Scabiosa arvensis and succisa. Lythrum Salicaria. 

Galium boreole. Sempervivum tectorum. 

Lysimachia nemorum and vulgare. Prmius Padus and Cerasus. 

Campanula latifolia. Spirasa salicifolia. - 

Potamogeton lanceolatum and crispum. Kubus idieus, fhiticosus, ' corylifolius, 

Litbospermum officinale. and saxatilis. 

Ecbium vulgate. Tormentilla repens. 

Convolvulus sepium. Comarum palustre. 

Jaaione montana. Nymphaea alba and lutea. 

Solanum Dulcamara. Chelidonium majus. 

Sanicula Europea. Papaver Argemone and Rhaeas. 

Ligusticum Meum. Stachys arabigua. 

<£nanthe crocata. Lamium amplexicaule* 

Sison inundatum and verticillatum. Scutellaria ^ericulata. 

Imperatoria Ostruthium. Melampyrum pratense. 

Viburnum opulus. Camelina sativa. 

Triglochin palustre. Cardamine amara. 

* The following description is given of a magnetic rock in the former Statistical Ac- 
count of the parish : 

*' A very singular magnetic rock has been discovered two miles from Castle- Semple* 
The compass was sensibly affected all round the rock to the distance of 150 yards. 
The effect was most remarkable on the east and west side of it, and in every direction 
it was greater as the compass was nearer to the rock itself. In its immediate vicini* 
ty, or nearly in a perpendicular direction above it, the position of the needle was very 
unsteady and irregular, and as the compass was gradually brought nearer the groimd, 
the deviation from the magnetic meridian was more remarkable, and the vibrations 
more rapid. When the compass was set on the ground, the north pole of the needle 
invariably directed itself to one small space of the rock, on whatever side of it the 
needle was placed.** 

This, I presume, furnishes another to the many examples that exist to prove that 
<* rocks impregnated with iron ore affect the magnetic needle, not only from the iron 
which they contain, but also from the portion of the natural magnet imbedded in the 
mass." In the New Philosophical Journal for July— October 1831, there is an ar- 
ticle on this subject. After noticing that the rock on which Dumbarton Castle is 
built possesses this property, a particular account is given of rocks on the top of Ar- 
thur's Seat, and a table drawn up of experiments m^de by Mr W. Galbraith, A. M. 
and Mr James Trotter^ to which it is sufficient to refer in illustration of this subject. 



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86 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Famatoria claviculata. Myriophyllum spicatum. 

Lepidium campestre. Carex hirta, 

Nasturtium sylvestre. Salix cinerea. 

Barbarea vulgaris. Empetrum nigrum. 

Geranimn sylvaticum. Peltidea aphthosa aud canina. 

Trifolium medium, and arvense. Cenomyce pyxidata, fimbriata, furcata, 

Errum hirsutum. and rangiferina. 

Cnicus heterophyllus. Marchantia polymorpha. 

Gnaphalium sylvaticum. Jungermannia Blasia. 

Tussilago Petasites. Sphi^um obtusifolium and acutifblium. 

Senecio saracenicus and sylvaticus. Dicranum bryoides, adiantoides, and 

Solidago Virgaurea. taxifolium. 

Gy mnadenia conopsea. Polypodium Phegopteris and Dryopteris. 

Habenaria albida. Asplenium Trichomanes, Ruta muraria, 

Listera oordata and ovata. and Adiantum nigrum. 

Epipactis latifolla. Pteris crispa. 

Typha latifolia. Lycopodium selago and alpinum. 

Sparganium natans and ramosum. 

IL — Civil History. 

Parochial Registers. — These are three in number. 1*^, A re- 
gister of proclamations of marriage, which is complete from 1718 
to the present time ; 2</, a register of births and baptisms, which 
was begun in 1706 and continued to 1714. There is a blank till 
1718, after which it is complete to the present time. d</, The mi- 
nutes of the kirk-session from September 169 1, when Mr John Pais- 
ley was ordained, till June 1700. The minutes are wanting from 
this date till August 1709, from which they extend to 1760, after 
which there is another chasm till 1777. From 1777 they are 
complete to the present day. In looking into the earlier period 
of these records, one is struck with the quantity of business that 
came before the session, when he considers the smallness of the 
population, the primitive, and, as we are accustomed to think, 
purer state of society. The strictness of discipline, however, and 
the fact, that almost every offence came before the kirk-session, 
may account for the number of cases on record, without denying 
that " the former times were better than these." 

Historical Events. — The battle of Muirdykes, fought on a farm 
of the same name in the eastern part of the parish, June 18> 1685, 
is noticed by a number of historians, such as Wodrow, Sir Patrick 
Hume of Polwart, and Dr M^Crie in his Memoirs of Bryson. 
The Duke of Argyie collected in Holland an army of 1500 refu- 
gees from Scotland, with whom he landed at Kintyre and proceed- 
ed towards Glasgow. When they reached Kilpatrick his follow- 
ers began to desert him. With a few of them he crossed the 
Clyde and came to Inchinnan, where he was taken prisoner, car- 
ried to Edinburgh, and executed. A remnant of his followers, 
under the command of Sir John Cochran, came to Muirdvkes, 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 87 

where they were attacked by the forces of King James VIL, whom 
they defeated, and remained on the field behind a natural entrench- 
ment till it was dark. Afraid of the enemy being reinforced, they 
retired during night, and proceeded southwards to the parish of 
Beith. The King's forces made a similar retreat under the shade 
of night, and so the field was found next morning deserted of both 
parties. 

Though Renfrewshire was never visited by the " Bloody Cla- 
verhouse," nor laid waste by the Highland host, and seems to have 
suffered less than some other parts of the country during the un- 
natural wars of the Stewarts against their own best subjects, yet it 
did not escape the rage of persecution, and the names and resi- 
dences of many individuals belonging to this parish are preserved 
in Wodrow's History, who were seized and tried, imprisoned and 
fined, robbed and tortured, banished and enslaved. The persecuted 
ministers, followed by the afflicted people, met in the moors among 
the hills, preached the Gospel, and baptized the forefathers of some 
who are still alive in the parish. The celebrated Renwick preach- 
ed in different places here and in the neighbourhood.* 

Amongst the eminent characters connected with this parish, we 
are entitled to number Sir William Wallace, the celebrated de^ 
fender of Scotland. There is a barony of land in the south-east- 
em extremity of the parish, called Auchinbathie Wallace, upon 
which there are still the remains of an old castle, which belonged to 
his progenitors. Near it, on the farm of Laightrees, there is a 
small eminence in the midst of a morass, which is a meadow in 
summer but a loch in winter, called Wallace's Knowe, where, ac- 
cording to tradition, Wallace defended himself against a party of 
Englishmen. There is no doubt of his possessing property here ; 
and we are willing to believe he resided sometimes in the Castle 
of Auchinbathie Wallace, and performed exploits in the neigh- 
bourhood. 

* I cannot help mentioning one anecdote, out of many, not recorded in Wodrow's 
History, of Jainefl Glen of Gillsyard, who was great-grandfather of William Glen, 
at present the oldest efficient member of the kirk-session, and an heritor in the pa- 
riah, and the same relation to John Glen, another small proprietor : he had a child 
baptized one day among the hills. In the evening of the day following, when he was 
proceeding towards Bridge-end, he saw two horsemen, who immediately pursued him. 
"Whilst he was flying before them he perceived a horse-shoe, which he picked up and 
deliberately placed under his cap. He was overtaken at the old mill of Bridge-end, 
where he tried to escape amongst the brambles on the side of the read, but one of the 
soldiers succeeded in striking him a violent blow with his sword on the head, and 
perhaps thought he had killed him, and left him dead among the brushwood. The 
horse-«hoe, however, placed under his cap protected his head, and as it was in the 
dusk of the evening he was allowed to remain unhurt in his lurking-place. 



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88 RENFKEWSHIRE. 

Family ofSempilL — But by far the most remarkable family in the 
ancient history of this parish was that of the Sempills, of whom a 
pretty full account is given by Semple and Crawfurd, continued by 
Robertson. I have seen a fuller and more accurate account of the 
family in MS., by Dr A. Crawfurd, but I cannot enter so fully into 
the subject as even the printed record, and shall only notice some 
of the most important circumstances scattered over the whole his- 
tory of this family. They seem to have been vassals of the Stew- 
arts, who at one time possessed the whole barony of Renfrew, and 
were progenitors of a long race of kings. In this manner, they 
were brought into notice at court, and made a figure in the his- 
tory of the country. Walter High Steward of Scotland married 
Marjory, daughter of the most illustrious of Scotland's kings, Ro- 
bert the Bruce, whose son, Robert Stewart, succeeded his uncle, 
David IL, in 1371. The barony of Renfrew was called the princi- 
pality, and was afterwards conferred as a separate maintenance upon 
the prince who was heir-apparent to the throne ; and for this rea- 
son one of his titles still is " Baron of Renfrew." 

Robert, the first of the Sempill family, of whom any record re- 
mains, lived in the reign of Alexander IL, who ascended the throne 
in 1214. His sons, Robert and Thomas, were great patriots, and 
friends of Robert the Bruce. John Sempill, the seventh of the 
family, was a man of great talents and distinction. Amongst other 
public transactions in which he was engaged, he was one of the 
Scottish commissioners appointed to negociate with the Court of 
England for the liberation of James I., whom he met and con- 
gratulated at Durham when he was returning home. He was 
made a knight by James II. about 1430. Renfrewshire was dis- 
joined from Lanarkshire in 1406, and Sir William Sempill, the 
second baronet of the family, was made Sherifi* of this county, and 
obtained from James IIL the baronies of EUistown, Castletown, 
afterwards called Castle- Sempill, now Castle- Semple. Sir Tho- 
mas Sempill was killed in 1486 at Bannockburn, in the service of 
his sovereign, James IIL, who, after a fall from his horse, was 
treacherously put to death in the manner minutely and graphical- 
ly described by Sir Walter Scott in his Tales of a Grandfather. 
His son. Sir John Sempill, was created Lord Sempill by James IV. 
in 1488. It was this Lord Sempill who built the Collegiate- 
Kirk of Lochwhynyeoch " to the honour of God, and of the blessed 
Virgin Mary, for the prosperity of his sovereign James IV., and 
Mai^ret his Queen, for the soul of Margaret Colville, his former 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 89 

Spouse, and also for the salvation of his own soul, and that of 
Margaret Crichton, his present wife, and of all his predecessors 
and successors, and of all the faithful deceased." This wise and 
pious Lord, having fully appointed and richly endowed the Colle- 
giate Kirk, died on the celebrated field of Flouden, on the 9th 
September 1513. The walls of the old kirk are still standing. 
Its whole length is 71 feet 6 inches; its breadth 24 feet 3 inches ; 
and the height of the side walls 15 feet 6 inches. The east end 
of it is separated from the west by a partition, is enclosed, and still 
used as a burying-place by the family of Castle- Semple. 

Robert Lord Sempill was called the great Lord Sempill. The 
family estates had been vastly increased by his father. Lord Wil- 
liam, and he being a person of a martial spirit, was engaged in 
many of the wars of his age. He was present at the battle of 
Pinkie in 1547. He adhered strictly to the interests of Queen 
Mary, till the murder of Darnley, after which he entered into a 
bond of association with other noblemen to defend the young 
King James. He was present with the Regent Murray at the 
battle of Langside, and, in consideration of his many and valuable 
services to the King and government, obtained from him a charter 
of the abbey of Paisley in 1569, upon the forfeiture of Lord Claud 
Hamilton. He engaged in the great feuds between the houses of 
Eglinton and Glencairn, or the Montgomeries and Cuninghames, 
with the former of which the Sempills had formed various marriage 
connections. These feuds lasted from 1488 till 1586. There 
were so many families involved in them, and so many lives lost, 
that it was more like a civil war, than a family quarrel. During 
these perilous times, Lord Sempill built the Peel on a small 
islet in Castle- Semple Loch. Being surrounded on all sides 
by water and well defended, it must have been a very safe and 
impregnable retreat. The foundation and a portion of the di- 
lapidated walls still remain surrounded by a few trees and shrubs. 
In consequence of the extent to which the loch has been drained, 
the Peel now stands upon its southern margin, in the line of a 
high embankment, by which the land« beyond it is kept compa- 
ratively dry during the summer, but which alters and hurts the 
appearance of this ancient place. The great Lord Sempill had 
three sons, Robert, who died in his lifetime, Andrew, who was the 
head of the Sempills of Breucheills or Bruntsheills and Millbank, 
and John, head of the Sempills of Beltrees. Francis Lord Sempill 
was the first of the family who renounced the errors of the church 



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90 RENFREWSHIRE. 

of Rome, to which the members of this family were long and zeal- 
ously attached. Hew Lord Sempill was a Colonel in the army, 
and commanded the left wing of the King's forces in the battle of 
CuUoden in 1746. He had sold Castle-Semple to Colonel Mac- 
dowall in 1727, and bought North Barr in 1741. His grandson 
Lord Hew Sempill was the last of the family. He had four child- 
ren, of whom two are still alive ; the Honourable Maria Janet 
•Senipill, and the Honourable Sarah Sempill. 

This family was the head of the clan of Sempills, and at one 
time possessed an extent of property, which at the present day 
would have produced an annual income of from L. 20,000 to 
L. 25,000, and therefore were properly styled " a potent and 
powerful family." Now the whole of that property has passed in- 
to other hands. 

The Sempills of Beltrees were, in an intellectual and literary 
point of view, more celebrated than the great Sempill family, from 
which they were descended. John, the first of this family and 
son of the great Lord Sempill, married Mary, sister of Lord Li« 
vingstone, who was one of the maids of honour to Mary Queen of 
Scots. Both she and her husband were great favourites with the 
beautiful Queen, which was the means of promoting their wealth 
and worldly prosperity. His highest honour, however, was that 
he was the father of Sir James Sempill, his successor. Sir James 
was an intimate and faithful friend of Mr Andrew Melville, and 
therefore various important circumstances are mentioned con- 
cerning him in Dr M'Crie's Life of that celebrated individual. 
This intimacy is said to have occasioned the publication of the fa- 
mous Basilicon Doron by James VI. Sir James Sempill, who was 
a friend and favourite of the King, being employed to transcribe 
this treatise, sent it to Mr Andrew Melville to peruse. Melville 
taking offence at some passages which it contained, brought the 
subject before the synod of St Andrews, which obliged the King 
in self-defence, as he thought, to publish the whole work ; and this 
step answered the purpose at least of procuring for him much ad- 
miration in England. After Melville had been decoyed to Lon- 
don, and cruelly and unjustly committed to the Tower by his faith- 
less sovereign. Sir James was enabled to render him important ser- 
vices. He 6rst procured for him a relaxation of his conBnement 
and rigorous treatment, and then permission to retire to France, 
where he became a professor of divinity in the Protestant College 
of Sedan. Daniel Tilesius, a man of talent, but of Arminian prin- 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 91 

ciples, was his colleague, and it is supposed that, at the sugges- 
tion, and perhaps with the assistance of Melville, Sir James en- 
gaged in a controversy with him, which had the effect of pre- 
venting the spread of his opinions among the students. Pro- 
voked at this, Tilesius endeavoured to ingratiate himself with 
King James, by publishing a defence of the late proceedings in 
Scotland, and filled it with unmerited and unmeasured abuse of the 
Scotch Presbyterians. This was answered by Beltrees in 1622, 
in a book written with great ability. The style is nervous, and 
the satire keen, but more chastened than was necessary in answer- 
ing the coarse attack of Tilesius. As intimated in the conclusion 
of this work, the controversy was continued, in which Sir James 
perhaps obtained secret assistance from Melville, and, at any rate, 
public and effectual aid from Calderwood, who published an ela- 
borate work entitled " Altare Damascenum." The other works 
of Beltrees were, an Answer to Tilesius's Defence of the Bishops, 
and the Five Articles, Cassandra Scotiana to Colander Anglican 
nus, published in 1616 ; ^^ Sacrilege sacredly considered," publish- 
ed 1619 ; the Packman's Pater Noster^ a satirical poem against 
the Church of Rome, and probably the following production. 
When King James visited his native kingdom of Scotland in 1617, 
an oration, in the form of an allegory, welcoming his Majesty, was 
pronounced in the great hall of the Earl of Abercorn by a very 
pretty boy of nine years of age. This was William, the youngest 
son of the Sheriff, Sir James Sempill of Beltrees. He died in his 
bouse at the Cross of Paisley in February 1625. 

His descendants seem to have retained chiefly his poetical ta- 
lents, but degenerated from grave and serious subjects, to the com- 
position of merry songs and satirical poems. His son Robert was the 
author of the epitaph of Habbie Simpson, the piper of Kilbar- 
chan, and perhaps other similar productions. Francis, the next pro- 
prietor, was still more fertile in works of this kind,, but, as will 
easily be believed, he squandered away his property, which he 
treated as lightly as every other subject. These light-hearted 
descendants of the grave and literary Sir James, when they could not 
rise to the composition of a poem, showed their spirit in a diffe- 
rent way. Robert, the sixth of the family, was present at the last 
burning of witches in Paisley, in 1697, though to prevent this his 
parents had concealed his shoes, and he was obliged to go with- 
out them. It was he who died at Kilbarchan in 1789, aged 103 
years. His son Robert made a little money, and retrieved the 



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92 RENFREWSHIRE. 

circumstances of the family, but left it all to Mr Hamilton Ck>llins, 
who married his youngest sister. Mrs Campbell, his eldest sister, 
was entirely overlooked ; but her daughter married Mr Stewart, a 
respectable merchant in Greenock, and their son, Mr Stewart, I 
believe, still takes the title of Beltrees. 

Family of Glen ofBarr. — The second largest property in the 
parish is Barr, with regard to i^hich I shall only say, it was pos- 
sessed by the family of Glens above 300 years. John Glen, the 
first of the family, swore fealty to Edward I., King of England, in 
1296, during the wars of the celebrated Sir William Wallace; and 
the family became eiitinct in the person of Alexander Glen, in 
1616. 

There are, however, a few families here of the name of Glen, 
who are supposed to be cadets of the Glens of Barr. 

The property was next possessed by the family of Hamiltons, 
who also sold it about half a century ago, and the only surviving 
branch of the family is an old maiden lady residing in the village, 
about eighty years of age. 

Family of M^Dowall of Garthland, — The present proprietor is 
William M^Dowall of Garthland, Esq. whose progenitors bought 
Castle- Semple from Lord Hew Sempill in 1727, and ever since 
that period, this has been one of the most distinguished families in 
the county of Renfrew. The late William M'Dowall of Garth- 
land, Esq. was frequently Member of Parliament both for the coun- 
ty and the Clyde district of burghs, and a very influential person 
at court. His memory is not merely revered in the parish, but 
he enjoyed so entirely the esteem of all the gentlemen of the coun- 
ty, that after his death they erected an elegant monument to his 
memory in the old Abbey Kirk of Paisley. 

Land-owners. — Two of the chief land-owners in the parish have 
already been mentioned. Colonel Harvey of Castle- Semple, and 
William M^Dowall, Esq. of Garthland. The rest in the order of 
their valuations are, Mrs Barr ; Colonel Fulton of Hartfield ; Lu- 
dovic Houston of Johnstone, Esq.; William Cochran of Ladyland, 
Esq.; and William Patrick, Esq. W. S. The first three are re- 
sident, the following non-resident The rest of the parish is 
broken down amongst a multitude of small proprietors, amounting 
altogether to almost ISO. 

Eminent Men. — Most of the persons hitherto mentioned were . 
distinguished chiefly by their property, and their political or warlike 
character, but there are at least two worthy of notice on account of 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 93 

their talents and literature : — James Latta, Surgeon in Edinburgh, 
was born in 1754. He was son of James Latta, an extensive farmer, 
and grandson of Michael Nasmith, long parochial schoolmaster in 
this parish. He published a practical system of surgery in 3 volumes 
8vo, the second edition of which appeared in 1 790, and is quoted 
by Cooper, in his Dictionary of Surgery, as a respectable work. 
Latta died young and unmarried. 

Alexander Wilson, the Scots poet, and celebrated American 
ornithologist, was not a native of this parish, but he was connected 
with it by residence. His father removed from Paisley, the place 
of his nativity, to Auchinbathie, in 1784, and his son was employ- 
ed as a weaver in Lochwinnoch till 1790. In consequence of this, 
many of his poems are founded on the scenery and incidents of 
the parish : — ^such as Calder Banks, Address to Mr M^Dowall of 
Grarthland, Fauldhead's Elegy, &c. His most remarkable poem, 
Wattie and Meg, is supposed to refer to two individuals who were 
well known here ; but the inhabitants of Paisley dispute this ho- 
nour with us. In consequence of a satirical poem written against 
a respectable manufacturer in Paisley, an action was raised against 
him before the Sheriff, and though the sentence was mild, he 
took it amiss, and went to America in 1794. He lived at Phila- 
delphia, and having alvmdoned politics, which had provoked his 
muse to satire, he betook himself to the study of natural history. 
There he published a splendid work entitled American Ornitho- 
logy, in 9 volumes, with plates.* 

* It may not be improper to subjoin a notice of the parochial ministers ftince 
the Reformation. It so happens, that almost all the former Presbyterian minis- 
ters of Lochwinnoch have been not merely exemplary in their characters, and dill- 
gent in the discharge of their duty, but acceptable to their parishioners. This cir- 
cumstance has kept the people united, promoted their improvement, and maintain- 
ed the Established Church here in a state of uninterrupted prosperity. This is a 
het worthy of the attention of patrons. 1. The first person who officiated in this 
place in sacred things, after the Reformation, was Ninian Sempill, in 1576. He 
was only a" reader," — a dass of public teachers still of inferior repute in the country. 
His stipend was L. 16 Scots, with the kirk-lands. 2. Mr Andrew Knox, son of 
Mr John Knox of Ramforlie in Kilbarchan, was ordained about 1580, and translat- 
ed to Paisley in 1585. He helped to defeat an attempt of Mr Hew Barclay of Lady, 
land, to overturn the Protestant faith by the assistance of the court of Spain, but was 
not equally zealous against Episcopacy, which shews he had lost something of the 
spirit of his relative the great John Knox of a former generation, for when James V L 
restored Episcopacy in 1606, he was made Bishop of the Isles. In 1622, he was 
promoted to the Bishoprick of Raphoe in Ireland, where he died in 1632. Crawford 
represents him as a person of considerable learning, but of gentle dispositions, and 
averse to persecution for conscience sake. He therefore shewed great kindness to 
his Presbyterian countrymen who fled from Scotland on account of their aversion to 
the church which the government were trying to estaUish in the country. 3. Mr 
Patrick Hamilton was minister of this parbb in 1662, and was translated to Paisley 
in 1607. 4. Mr Alexander Hamilton in 1627. I have found no record how the 
parish was supplied during the long vacancies of this early period. 5. Mr Hew 



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94 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Antiquities. — I have already mentioned the Peel and Collegiate 
Kirk, and shall now notice the remains of other ancient buildings. 

The Barr Castle is the most remarkable of these. It is entire, 
but without a roof. It is a high oblong tower, must have been 
a place of considerable strength, and is a respectable piece of archi- 
tecture for the time in which it was built, which seems to have been 
in the fifteenth century. It has both slits for arrows and ports for 

Peebles in 1647' He was a pious and able man, and one of the many Presbyterian 
ministers who suffered during the reign of Charles II. Of the 400 ministers who 
refused to conform to Prelacy, there were 14 in the presbytery of Paisley, and Mr 
Hew Peebles was one of them who was deposed in 1663. For teaching in his own 
family on Sabbath evening, he was brought before the High Commission, where 
he pled his cause with great freedom as well as force of reasoning. Notwithstand- 
ing of this he was required to remove to Forfar, and to confine himself to that 
town. He was again brought before the council in 1670, and required to confine 
himself to Dumbarton and a mile around it. When the act of indulgence was pas- 
sed at Glasgow in 1672, Mr Peebles at first refused to avail himself of it, but after« 
wards complied, and was restored to his charge about 1676. With some interrup- 
tion he continued his labours till the Revolution in 1688, when he was fully restored 
to his ofiSce and emoluments, and died in 1691. His receipts for stipend from 1600 
to 1665, are still in the possession of an inhabitant of the parish. 

During the suspension of Mr Peebles, there were at least two Episcopalian mi- 
nisters or curates here : — Mr Robert Aird in 1666, and Mr William Cuninghame 
in 168(3. One of them was very strict in requiring the parishioners to conform to 
Episcopacy, and in reporting against those who were irregular and refractory, 
but the other was easy and indulgent, and if they appeared to answer to their 
names at the commencement of public worship, he connived at their retiring, with- 
out requiring them to remain and join in the service : —and therefore he has left 
a favourable impression behind him in the parish. 6. Mr John Paisley was or- 
dained 15th September 1691, refused a call to Foveran in Aberdeenshire, in 1693, 
and died in 1728. There is still evidence of his fidelity and diligence in the records 
of session during his incumbency. 7. Mr John Pinkerton was ordained 15th De- 
cember 1728, and died dd January 1750. The impression of his worth and fidelity 
still remain with the inhabitants of the parish. 8. Mr John Couper is said to have 
been licensed at the same time with bis predecessor, and afler a long probation was 
ordained at Loch win noch in September 1750, and died in September 1787, at the 
age of 81 , after an incumbency of 87 years. He was the only minister of this parish 
who belonged to what is called the moderate party in church- politics, I mention 
this, simply as a fact of which neither he, nor any of his family, would have been 
ashamed, and have much pleasure in being able to add, he was an excellent scholar, 
and an irreproachable character, — was most attentive to his parochial duty, and the 
education of his family, of which they have reaped the benefit in the prosperity which 
it has helped to secure for them in the world, and for which they have evinced their 
gratitude in their high respect for the memory of their father, and peculiar attach- 
ment to the place of their nativity. After tlie death of Mr Couper, the patron, Mr 
M'Dowall of Castle-Semple gave the people of this parish a choice of their own mi- 
nisters. The first chosen was, 9. Mr James Steven, who was translated from a chapd 
in Albion Street, Glasgow, to Lochwinnoch, 16th August 1788, and died 21st June 
1801. He was a very popular preacher. 10. Mr James Crawfurd was translated 
from Port- Glasgow chapel, 18th December 1801, and died 7th May 1814. He was 
an excellent man, as well as an acceptable preacher. Immediately before the death 
of Mr Crawfurd, the patronage of this parish was sold by the trustees of the late 
William M*Dowall of Garthland, Esq., and purchased by a number of the heritors. 
None but heritors were permitted to have a share, and no one heritor could bold 
more than five shares. The patronage being bought for L. 1560, was soon disposed 
of amongst seventy^seven heritors, holding more or less shares from one to five, and 
having votes proportioned to the number of their shares. Each share cost L. 10. 
These patrons chose, 11. Mr Robert Smith, in October 1814, who was ordained 2d 
March 1816, and is the present incumbent. 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 95 

guns. Great guns were used by the English in the siege of Berwick 
in 1405, but for some time after this, our forefathers, especially in 
Scotland, retained an attachment to their ancient mode of warfare 
with bows and arrows. This castle, then with both its slits and gun- 
ports, seems to have been built in the fifteenth century, when they 
were passing from the one mode of warfare to the other. It consists 
of four stories. The first or ground-floor is arched to secure horses 
and other cattle in times of danger. The second contains the great 
hall, and the other stories different apartments for diflferent pur- 
poses. It has a rampart or battlement at the top, and a turret at 
each comer. The large door is thick, and studded with strong 
spikes, having broad heads. It was lighted with ] 6 windows, and 
is about 35 feet long, and 26 broad, and the walls are about 4 feet 
thicL This castle is delightfully situated on a head-land a little 
west from the village, and commands a view of Barr House, the 
village. Crook Hill, the loch, Peel, and much of the adjacent scenery 
already described. 

Elliston Castle is a small square building. It was the residence 
of the Sempill family before 1500, and stands on the opposite side 
of the loch from the present mansion-house. It must have been 
built before the use of gunpowder, but when repairs were made in 
later times, gun-ports were formed in its walls. Its length is 42 
feet over the walls, its breadth 33 feet, and its height from 20 to 
30 feet, being higher in some places than others. The end walls 
are from 8 to 9 feet thick, and the side walls about 6^ feet. In 
the east and west walls there is an opening opposite to one another, 
and arched over the top, which might have been doors, but which 
from their elevation in the walls, appear like large windows. Au- 
cbinbathie tower stands on the side of the public road leading to 
Dunlop, Stewarton, &c It is surrounded by some old trees, and 
cultivated land, — memorials of the wealthy inhabitants by whom it 
must have been occupied. We have said it was no doubt the man- 
sion-house of the progenitors of Sir William Wallace. It is not 
so large as either of the castles already mentioned, though less di- 
lapidated than the second. It is 29 feet long, from 10 to 12 broad, 
but it is probable that only a portion of the side walls remain, and 
its greatest height is about 17 feet. There is a small building em- 
bosomed within these ancient walls, and, therefore, instead of being 
the mansion-house of a distinguished family, they are now an out- 
house for cattle. 

Besides these, there were other ancient castles, of which little 



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96 RENFREWSHIRE. 

visible trace remains. The castle of Castle Tower gave place to the 
present mansion-house of Castle- Seniple. Its foundations were this 
year laid bare in forming some drains about the latter house. Bel- 
trees is mentioned as one of the stone-houses or castles in Renfrew- 
shire in 1612, by Monypennie in his Chronicles of Scotland. The 
celebrated and literary^ Sir James Sempill was then proprietor of 
Beltrees. Cloak Castle stood a little to the north-west of the pre- 
sent mansion-house. The foundations of Lorabank Castle were 
dug up by Mr Robert Orr, late proprietor of Langyard and Lora- 
bank. 

There are visible the remains of a camp or fort on the farm of 
Castlewaws, in the eastern part of the parish^ not far from the scene 
of the battle of Muirdykes. It is on the top of one of the highest 
hills on the south side of the loclr, which, on account* of its ele- 
vation, is visited by strangers for the sake of the extensive and 
delightful prospect which it commands, as well as for the sake 
of examining the camp. Towards the west the eye lights on 
the sombre Misty Law and adjacent hills, from whence it turns 
southwards towards the beautiful country of Cuninghame, the 
Frith of Clyde, the Island of Arran, and the Craig of Ailsa. The 
entrenched hill is a superficies of about 80 falls in length, and 
about 25 in breadth. It consists of a mass of trap rock, precipi- 
tous on both sides; it is highest on the east side, which is 40 feet 
high. The precipice had no need of a wall for defence, but some 
parts of the eminence are sloping in the ascent, and are defended 
by a rampart of turf and stones, something like a feal-dike. The 
north and south sides are somewhat departing from the form of a 
precipice, and therefore are fortified. On the south end, there are still 
the remains of an entrenchment, which is 5 feet high. Within the 
entrenchment there is a circular wall or intervallum of the same 
rude materials, about 60 feet in diameter toward the west. 

This fort has been supposed to be the remains of a camp formed 
by Sir William Wallace in his wars with the English ; but more 
probably it was one of the hill-forts formed by the ancient Britons, 
of which there are many remains in the country. 

The bridge of Bridgend across the Calder, a little to the north- 
west of the village, is worthy of notice, chiefly on account of its anti- 
quity. It is mentioned by Montgomery of Westlands in 1650. 
The adjacent property is called Bridgend, probably from this 
bridge, and this property is mentioned by this name in a charter of 
Lordship of Paisley, by James VI. in 1626, and in the rental of the 



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LOCHWINNOCH. &7 

abbey of Paistey in 1525. The arch of the bridge is very fine, and 
the mason-work far more elegant than is now employed about 
bridges. Originally it was very narrow, and barely allowed one 
cart to pass at once, but was repaired and widened in 1814. We 
have nothing but conjecture concerning the origin of this bridge. 

In the former Statistical Account it is mentioned that a brass 
cannon and various canoes were found in the lake, — which evidently 
prove the large forests that must have existed in this part of the 
country. Many canoes have been found since that period. There 
is a person still alive who saw twenty-one buried in the mud between 
the old Peel and north side of the loch. A canoe taken out of the 
loch is still preserved in the garden of Allan Pmkerton of Mossend.* 

Modem Buildings. — These require little description, for though 
the village be large, it contains few houses worthy of particular no- 
tice. The following general and accurate account of it is given by 
Robertson. *^ Lochwinnoch Ls a very thriving village, built on a re- 
gular plan of one main street (which is half a-mile long) with some 
streets crossing it at right angles. The houses are generally of two 
stories in height, and covered with slates. The situation is indeed 
very pleasant, as it is exposed only to the south-east, being under 
shelter in all other directions, either by rising grounds or thick 
plantations." This description is strictly applicable to the new town ; 
the old, which is only a small portion of the village on the north, is 
meaner and more irregular in its appearance. The churches and 
mills will be noticed afterwards; and besides these, there are about 
eleven superior houses belonging to the wealthier inhabitants, such 
as professional men and the proprietors of cotton-mills. 
III. — Population. 

The populaiioD in 1695 was 290 Ikniilies, and of course about 1450 

1755, . . 1530 

1791, . . 2613 

1801, . 2955 

1811, . 3514 

1821, . 4130 

1831, 4515 

From the above statement it will be seen that the population 
has increased rapidly since 1791. The chief reason of which was 
the erection of cotton*mills about that time, and the stimulus which 
these gave to every other kind of business. I have found the in- 
crease regular for the last seventeen years, with the exception of 
the years 1819 and 1820, when, in consequence of distress and 
discontent, there was a considerable emigration to America. 

* Some other minor antiquitiet are noticed in the MS., ooosisting of gold and 
silver coins, a ladle of Corinthian brass, querns, &c. found in the parish. 
RENFREW. G 



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98 RENFREWSHIRE. 

The present state of the population is as follows : 

Village of Lochwinnoch, . 2645 

Hollowood, . . 209 

Glenhead, . • 53 

In the country, . . 1608 

Total, 4515 

Average number of births for the last seven years, 9$ 

of deaths, . . ' 77 

of marriages^ . . 31 

Neither the register of births nor deaths is quite accurate. They 
are both a little below the truth. 

Average number of persons below 15 years of age, 1750 

betwixt id and 30, . 1325 

80 and 50, . 857 

^ and 70, . 434 

above 70, . 149 

There are many of the last list above 80, and two of them, both 
males, are about 97. 

The average number of children in each family is . 2^ 

Unmarried men, botlk bachelors and widowers, above 50, . 70 

Women above 4.'>, .... 63 

Number of insane, fatuous, blind, deaf and dumb, . 33 

There are no nobility in the parish, and the principal land** 
owners have been already mentioned. There are from 50 to 60 
proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards. 

The kingdom of Strathelyde comprehended the shires of Dum- 
barton, Renfrew, Lanark, Ayr, &c. and consisted of an independent 
British or Celtic people. It was conquered by the Saxons about 
the year 1000 or 1 100, two hundred years after the conquest of the 
other provinces in- the lowlands. Hence the language of the west 
of Scotland, and the Renfrewshire dialect, contains far more words 
derived from the Gaelic than that of many other counties. The 
inhabitants of this parish spoke this kind of Scotch dialect exclu- 
sively till the public works introduced people from all parts of Scot- 
land, and even from Ireland, which has modiBed it somewhat 

There is no game or amusement by which the inhabitants of 
this parish are so much distinguished as curling, — which they have 
the best opportunities of enjoying on the fine sheet of ice on the 
loch of Castle- Semple. 

The young men and women employed in the cotton-mills can 
afford both to live and dress well, and their example tells upon the 
rest of the inhabitants. The numerous small proprietors, too, 
are generally in better circumstances than ordinary farmers, and 
therefore the appearance of the congregation is much gayer than 
might be expected in a country parish. Those who endure the 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 99 

heat, fatigue, aiid long confinement of the mills require a ge- 
nerous diet^ and use it. They have generally butcher-meat at 
dinner, and sometimes at breakfast. This occasions an excellent 
market in the village. Many of the other inhabitants live in a 
plainer style, both in the town and country. The peasantry, I be- 
lieve, generally eat porridge, and bread and cheese or milk to 
breakfast ; broth and butcher-meat to dinner ; and porridge again, 
or potatoes, or some other lighter food, to supper. Tea is not 
used in the country on ordinary occasions, except by some heads 
of families ; but, with solitary exceptions, they live well. 

In a manufacturing place like this, a great deal of ignorance 
and immorality may be expected. But the managers of the pub- 
lic works have always, much to their credit, been very careful about 
the character of the persons whom they employ ; and the inhabi- 
tants enjoy all private as well as public means of instruction and 
improvement The young are not merely educated at pablic 
schools, but many of them attend classes for religious instracti<iR ; 
and as soon as they approach the years of maturity they in gene- 
ral apply for admission into full communion with the church. 
They are in a remarkable manner a church-going people. There 
is hardly any such thing as infidelity, or even heresy, in the parish ; 
and those who are suspected of bad principles are regarded with 
such feelings as to prevent them from doing much injury to those 
around them. 

IV. — Industry- 

Bxtent of Lochwinnoch parish in English acres, - 19219 
Cultivated, or capable of cultivation, - 9000 
Wood, . - . . 700 

Water, 800 

Gardens and orchards, - - 100 

Pasture of all sorts, - - - 9119 

10219 

Such a large extent of land planted contains an immense variety 
of wood ; and upon the estates of Colonel Harvey and Mr M'Dowall 
it is managed in the best possible manner. The former keeps a 
skilful forester, and the plantations of the latter are managed with 
similar skill and attention. Where the soil is deep enough, all 
sorU of forest trees can be grown. On Castle- Semple estate there 
are many fine old trees, — beech, oak, Scotch and English elms, 
and large variegated planes ; larch firs, silver firs of remarkable 
size, and the largest tree of the cedar of Lebanon, except one, 
that exists in. Scotland. Besides these old trees, the forester has 
lately planted a large assortment of the finest trees of the forest 
which could be collected, and which are thriving well. I have re- 



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100 RENFREWSHIRE. 

ceived a similar report of the variety of trees on tbe estate of Mr 
M^Dowall, but some of tbe plantations are younger tban tbe woods 
witbin tbe policy of Castle- Semple, wbicb were managed witb great 
skill by tbe late proprietor, Mr M'Dowall of Gartbland. 

Rent ofLandj (J-c. — Tbe rent of land varies from L. 1 to L. 4 per 
acre in grass, and from L. 3 to L. 8 or L. 9 in crop, according to 
situation and circumstances. Tbese are so various tbat it would 
be very difficult to find a fair average. 

A cow's grass during summer varies from L. 3 to L. 5, exclusive 
of tbe expense of keeping it during winter. A sbeep may be pas- 
tured for 8s. or 10s. on good land, but for less on tbe moor land. 

Rye-grass bay, witb tbe seed, is sold at from L. 3 to L. 5 per 
100 stones; meadow-bay from L. 1, 10s. to L. 3, 10s. ditto; flax from 
12s. to 15s. per stone ; wool, from 5s. to L. 1 per stone ; cbeese, 
from 7s. to 9s. per stone ; butter, 13s. per stone ; and beef, 6s. 4d. 
per 'stt^ne. (I always speak of tbe local weigbts and measures, 
ireV^h imperial. ) 

'JOive Stock. — Tbe best breed of cattle and sbeep are reared in 
tbe parisb. All tbe farmers bave tbe finest Ayrsbire cows. 

Husbandry, Sfc. — Leases generally extend to nineteen years, 
tbougb some lands are let occasionally from year to year. Tbis is an 
injurious system, because tbe lands are not improved wben a tenant 
has not tbe certain prospect of bolding it so long as to enjoy tbe be- 
nefit of bis improvements. Tbe farm-buildings are in general sub- 
stantial, comfortable, and slated. Tbose on Castle- Semple estate, 
and tbe bouses of some of tbe wealthier small proprietors, are ele- 
gant, and superior to wbat is required for farm-houses. To contrast 
with these there are one or two old buildings to remind us of the state 
of things in a former century, and which would not seem out of 
place in the Highlands. Most of the enclosures are thorn hedges, 
but some are stone dikes. 

Much has been done in improving land during the last forty 
years. Enclosures have become general — roads are formed through- 
out the parish — the land has been drained and limed, — and tbe ro- 
tation of crops improved. The embankments which separate Barr 
Loch and Aird Meadow from Castle-Semple Loch, formed by the 
late proprietor, James Adam, Esq. W. S. and by which upwards 
of 200 acres of ground have been made to produce most luxu- 
riant crops of oats or hay, are the most extensive improvements 
that bave taken place in one quarter. * The late Andrew Moody, 

• Banr Loch is now the property of William M'Dowall, Esq., and Aird Meadow 
of Colonel Harvey of Castle-Semple. 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 101 

Esq. improved at great expense his property of Heathfield, form- 
iDg part of the high lands in the north-western part of the parish, 
now the property of James Watt, Esq. in Greenock, and John 
Millar, Esq. Glasgow; and improvements upon a smaller scale 
have been carried on throughout the whole parish. Still there are 
individuals, especially among the small proprietors, who, from want 
of skill, or energy, or money, have not made the most of their 
properties. 

Produce, — The average gross amount and value of raw produce 
yearly raised in the parish, may be as follows : 

2025 acres may produce at the rate of four bolk per acre, or 8100 

bolis, at ]^ per bo]], L.6075 

225 acres in potatoes, &c. may be worth L. 1 1 per acre, or in all - 2475 
There may be in hay of different sorts oue-fourth the quantity of land 

under grain crop, 506 acres worth L.3 per acre, or - - 1518 

6950 acres of moors, &c. may be rated at about 1 Od. per acre, L. 288 
2169 of better pasture at L. I, 5s., . - 2711 

100 acres of gardens and orchards, worth L. 6 per acre, or 600 
The thinning of plantations, &c., - - 300 

lUisoeUaneous produce, .... IQO 



3999 



Total, - - L. 14,067 

Quarriesj Sfc. — There are quarries of various kinds in the parish. 
There is a small lime quarry which is wrought at present, and lime 
exists in other places where no present use is made of it. There 
is abundance of freestone and other kinds of stone for building, and 
quarries are opened when they are required. There are two coal 
pits, the one at Hallhill on the eastern, and the other at Nervel- 
stone, in the western extremity of the parish. The former is worth 
about L. 300 a-year after expenses are paid. The latter is less 
valuable, and the working of it has lately been discontinued. 

Manufactures. — The first manufacture in which the inhabitants 
of this parish were engaged to any considerable extent was that of 
linen. About the time of the Union in 1707, this manufactory 
was introduced into Paisley, and the farmers in this as in other 
places began to grow flax, and their female domestics were em- 
ployed in making yarn for this manufactory. In the progress of 
the trade a company was formed here, who built a small factory 
about 1740, and a larger one about 1752 for linen and cam- 
brick. 

Mr Humphry Fulton, who was connected with this parish, in- 
troduced the manufacture of silk into Paisley after the model of 
the Spittalfield weavers in 1759; and before 1780, the elegant 
gauze trade was the chief manufacture in Renfrewshire; but it 
gave place to the cotton muslins about 1785 or 1790. 



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102 LOCHWINNOCH. 

Thread-making was introduced about 1722, and at one time 
there were about 20 thread mills in this parish ; but now the busi- 
ness has been nearly discontinued. 

Ableachfield belonging to the Factory Company was begun about 
1 740, which consumed all the butter-milk of the parish, till Dr Home 
of Edinburgh rescued it out of the hands of the bleachers, and restor- 
ed it to the use of the inhabitants, by teaching them about 1756 to 
use sulphuric acid in its place. The second bleachfield was begun 
at Loanhead ; the third at Burnfoot by Mr Hamilton Adam. The 
Fultons and Co. began bleaching near their large mill about 1793. 
All these bleached chiefly their own goods, but there are other 
bleachfields which depend upon the manufacturers of Glasgow and 
Paisley. The bleachfield of the late Henry Wilson of Bowfield, Esq. 
is particularly mentioned in the former Statistical Account, and it 
has been continued with little interruption, though by different per- 
sons, to the present day. The business was never carried on with 
more skill, spirit, and success than by Mr John Campbell, who at 
present occupies the house and field of Bowfield. Mr Peter Ca- 
meron has a field at Midtown, where a great deal has been done. 
He is a person of an active and enterprising spirit, and has con- 
nected with the field a beetling-mill on the banks of the Calder, 
in which he finishes the goods and prepares them for the market* 

There are 15 weavers in the parish occupied in coarse work for 
the use of the farmers and other inhabitants, and about 203 em- 
ployed by the manufacturers of Glasgow and Paisley. From 1780 
and downwards, they were engaged with various kinds of muslins : 
but a remarkable change took place in the trade about 1820. The 
present weavers are employed in Canton crapes, Angola shawls, 
silk cypresses, silk harnishes, cotton harnishes, and a mixture of both . 
This is a complex manufacture, — requires the assistance of a draw- 
boy, — and sometimes expensive harnishes, but they make great wages 
when the trade is flourishing. When this business was introduced, 
some weavers made a great deal of money ; and others would have 
found it equally profitable if they had been equally careful. About a 
fourth part of our weavers are still employed in working muslins, but 
very little can now be made by this kind of work. There is one mill in the 
parish, which contains six looms employed in power-loom weaving. 

Tanning was introduced into the parish about the beginning of 
last century, but it did not succeed. 

* Cameron has failed and left the parish since the above account was written. 
But the business of the bleachfield is carried on by John M'Nab and Co. 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 103 

Candlemaking was carried on for some time by Mr James Con- 
nel of Calderhaugh, but it was discontinued about 1828. 

Mr Crawfurd and his brother have a mill for carding and spin- 
ning wool, in which they employ 22 workers. It is in the third 
story of a very fine mill near the Calder. This elegant building was 
erected in 1814, and the under part of it is one of the largest, 
and most complete corn-mills in the country. After the dried 
oats are put into the happer, they go through the whole pro- 
cess of shelling, winnowing, grinding, and sifting, and are prepar- 
ed for the bags and the market without any other manual labour 
than that of superintending the process, which is carried on wholly 
by machinery. 

But the cotton-mills mentioned in the former Statistical Account 
have for the last forty years been by far the most conspicuous ma- 
nufactory in the parish. 

The old mill was erected by Messrs G. Houston, Bums, and 
Co. about 1788j and is now the property of W. Wright and Co, 
It is situated on the rising ground on the north-west side of the 
village, and is driven wholly by the waters of the Calder and re- 
servoirs connected with it. The building consists of five stories 
with garrets, lighted by 152 windows and 40 sky-lights. It con- 
tains 8140 spindles, and the yarn varies in size from No. 60 to 
80, and the water- twist from 24 to 30. It employs altogether 170 
workers, old and young, who receive about L. 148 of wages a-fort- 
night. 

The new mill was erected by Messrs Fulton and Co. in 1789, 
and is now the property of Messrs Fulton and Buchanan. This 
large and elegant building stands upon the level ground near the 
foot of the High Street. It is not, however, in the line of the street, 
but placed so far back as to form a large and fine area in front of the 
mill, enclosed by a parapet wall, surmounted in the centre by an 
iron railing, which is in the line of the street. It stands near the 
banks of the Calder, by the waters of which it was wholly driven 
till a large addition was built to it in 1825, when a steam-engine 
was erected, which is now used along with the water in driving this 
mill. It consists of five stories with garrets, and is lighted by 360 
windows and 60 sky-lights. It contains 25,224 spindles, which 
work 12,000 lbs. of cotton every fortnight. The yarn varies in 
size, from No. 36 to 84, averaging 60. It employs 345 workers, 
who receive about L. 260 of wages a-fortnight. 

About 1788, a small cotton-factory was commenced by a num- 



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104 RENFREWSHIRE. 

ber of persons in the parish, in which the jennies were moved by 
the hand ; but it did not succeed, and was soon given up. 

Messrs William Caldwell and Co. built a small mill at Boghead, 
a quarter of a mile north from the village, soon after the former. 
It consisted of three stories, besides garrets, and employed about 
80 workers; but being accidentally burnt down about 1813» it has 
ever since remained in a ruinous state. 

The persons employed in the cotton-mills work twelve hours five 
days in the week, and nine hours on Saturday. They have one 
hour and forty minutes for both breakfast and dinner. The con- 
finement and high temperature of the mills must enfeeble the frame, 
and ultimately tell upon the health of the workers, especially when 
they do not enter them in early life ; but they are not immediately 
broken down, and are not in general very sickly, so long as they 
continue to work, though paler, and sometimes thinner than those 
who are employed in the open air. The morals of the workers are 
still less afiected, for the reasons already assigned, — the care with 
which unworthy persons are excluded, and means employed to im- 
prove workers. There are many as excellent persons in the mills 
as amongst any other class of the inhabitants. The workers make 
very high wages, and these mills would in this respect add greatly 
to the comfort of the inhabitants, were it not that they tend to in« 
crease the population, with its attendant evils, and more especially 
to bring a number of large and poor families into the parish, in the 
hope of finding employment easily for their numerous children. Not- 
withstanding of this, I am satisfied that the inhabitants of the vil- 
lage of Lochwinnoch have for a considerable time past been more 
comfortably provided for, than those of places where there are no 
mills and a great many weavers, who have repeatedly suffered more 
of late than persons employed in such mills. Cotton-spinning is 
not now so profitable as it once was to the proprietors ; but the spi- 
rit and extent to which it is carried on is, I should think, the best 
proof that it is not yet an unprofitable concern. 

V.-^Parochial Economy. 

Villages. — There is no market-town in the parish, and Beith, 
which is the nearest, is almost four miles distant ; but everything 
that is needed can be got in the village of Lochwinnoch. The 
only other two villages are HoUowood and Glenhead, and they are 
both very small. 

Means of Communication. — There is a post-office in Lochwin- 
noch ; and there are carriers both to Glasgow and Paisley more 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 105 

than once a-week, besides carriers passbg through the parish week- 
ly to Greenock, Port-Glasgow, &c. For faciUtating this in- 
tercourse, there are excellent turnpike roads and bridges in all di- 
rections. Fences are raised everywhere, and there are private 
roads, generally good, to every part of the parish that is inhabited. 
A stage coach passes twice a-day along the road between Beith 
and Paisley, about a mile south from the village of Lochwinnoch. 
It leaves Saltcoats at 6 a. m., passes this a little after 8, and 
reaches Glasgow at half-past 10 o'clock. It leaves Glasgow about 
4 p. M., and passes this a little after 6 o'clock. The course of a 
canal between Glasgow and Ardrossan, passing along the side of 
Castle-Semple Loch, was marked off about thirty years ago, and 
the canal was actually made as far as Johnstone ; but it has never 
been carried farther, and the original design is now, I believe, 
abandoned. But an act of Parliament has been obtained to form 
a rail-road throughout the same line of country, and it has been 
executed from the harbour of Ardrossan as far as the coal-works 
in the neighbourhood of Eglington ; but, I suspect, it will not soon 
be carried through to Glasgow. 

JEcclegictstical State. — The parish church was built in 1806 on a 
new site opposite to the elegant west gates of Castle-Semple, and 
on the west of Harvey's Square. It is a large building, which 
ought to have been square, but its corners are rounded off so as 
to make it an irregular-sided octagon. It is well finished and 
painted within, and lets to about 1150 sitters; but when packed 
it will hold 200 or 800 more. It has a neat spire, though rather 
short. Beneath this spire, there is a paved area enclosed with ele- 
gant columns, having three large and high-arched openings be- 
tween them corresponding to the three large doors in the front of 
the church. It stands in a field where no person has hitherto been 
buried, surrounded on three sides with a high wall ; and on the 
front of the church there is a parapet wall, surmounted by an 
iron railing and two handsome gates, one at each end of the 
wall. The field is ornamented with trees and flowering shrubs. 
The situation of the church is sufficiently convenient for the in- 
habitants of the village and those on the north side of the loch ; 
but it is far from those in the eastern extremity of the parish, and, 
in consequence of this, some of them do not attend it, but go to 
Johnstone chapel. There are no free sittings in the church, ex- 
cept part of two table-seats; and the other seats are let so dear as 
to be a very heavy burden upon poor persons. They vary from 



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106 RENFREWSHIRE. 

4s. to 12s. a seat ; and if a family be large their sittings in church 
are almost equal to their rent, if they have as many as they re- 
quire. The reason of this is, — that even with us where there 
is a village population of about 3000 souls, and altogether 3730 
persons who profess to belong to the Establishment, there is a me- 
lancholy want of church accommodation. 

The present manse, (though not the offices,) was built in 1815, 
ai)d is a good house. The glebe contains from 6 to 7 Scotch 
acres, and affords very good pasture. The stipend is 8 chalders 
of meal and 8^ of barley, with L, 15 Sterling for communion ele- 
ments. There is no chapel nor any other place of worship con- 
nected with the Established Church within the parish.* 

The only other place of worship is one belonging to the United 
Secession body. It was built in 1792, in the form of an octagon, 
and stands near the parish church. It has a small tower in front, 
which improves its appearance. There have been three different 
incumbents in this place of worship, all of them still alive, and ex- 
cellent men, — the Rev. Mr Schaw, now in Ayr; the Rev, Mr 
Robson, now in Halifax, America ; and the Rev. Mr Shoolbraid, 
the present incumbent. A neat house was built for him in 1825, 
which, with a garden in front of it, is situated near the church. 
His stipend is L. 100, which is raised from the seat rents, the re- 
gular and extraordinary collections, and, I believe, other occasional 
contributions. 

The inhabitants of this parish are in a remarkable manner a 
church-going people. 3730 of them profess to belong to the Es- 
tablishment; 1509 have been admitted into full communion with 
it ; and there are about 1 100 regular communicants, leaving about 
400 aged, careless or scandalous persons, who do not regularly com- 
municate, — after deducting, however, a number in the eastern part 
of the parish who are admitted to sealing ordinances in the chapel at 
Johnstone. There are 789 Dissenters of all denominations. 

Religious Societies, — There are two societies in this place for 
promoting religious purposes, a parochial and a female society. 
Their funds have dwindled down to a very small sum for some years 
past. The former, at its institution in 1815, raised almost L. 100 ; 
and now its annual income is generally below L. 20. The latter, 
which was instituted a year or two earlier, then raised above L. 40 ; 
and now it does not raise L. 10. Our Sabbath evening schools 
have become more numerous, amounting to 7, and attended by 

* A missionary station was opened in the end of 1834. 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 101 

about 600 children. We have a Tract Society, a Temperance 
Society, a Society for the reformation of morals, and various col- 
lections for religious and charitable purposes, in the course of 
every year. 

The Tract Society is constituted and managed in such a man- 
ner, that every family in the village is furnished with a new tract 
upon some religious subject every week in the year ; the distri- 
butors going through their respective quarters for this purpose every 
Monday. 

Education. — There are altogether ten schools in this parish, — two 
or three of which are very small, and others are not large; but there 
are about 400 children attending all these schools. 

The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accommodations of a 
house and garden, and the maximum salary of L. 34, 4s. ; but hi- 
therto the teacher has paid L. 5 of this sum to a teacher at Glen- 
head, a village on the south side of the loch, who has, besides this, 
a schooUhouse, a dwelling-house, and a small garden. The teacher 
at Hollowood, the other village on that side of the loch, has the 
same accommodations, and sometimes a sum raised^ by voluntary 
subscription ; but there is no regular salary attached to this school. 
There is in the village of Lochwinnoch a school supported by the 
proprietors of the New mill. They have, very much to their honour, 
provided an excellent school-room, giving the teacher a salary of 
L.36a-year, and requiring him to teach 60 scholars through the day, 
30 under twelve years of age, who leave the mill before the others, 
and meet in school at six o'clock, and 60 who meet at eight o'clock 
in the evening. These children pay only 9d. a quarter to defray the 
expense of paper, slates, &c. which are provided for them. But the 
teacher is permitted to take in more than 60 scholars if they apply, 
exacting of these additional scholars the ordinary rate of wages. 
All the other schools are wholly unendowed. In about one-half of 
the schools there is nothing taught but reading, and perhaps a little 
English grammar, writing, and arithmetic. The other five or six 
teachers are acquainted with Latin, and some of them know Greek, 
French, and other branches of education. I am not aware there 
are any children growing up among us without education, and if 
this were discovered, provision would be made for their instruction. 
There may be one or two, but there are not many, adults who can- 
not read. The state of education seems to have been very diflFe- 
rent, only a little more than a century ago. So far from employ- 
ing ten teachers here, the parochial schoolmaster seems to have 



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108 RENFREWSHIRE. 

been obliged to move from place to place, and even when he re- 
turned to Lochwinnoch, got little encouragement In an old MSS. 
book belonging to Barr, there are the following records, " school 
taken up 4th January, 19 waens, including 4 lassies ;" " school 
taken up October 27th, 1697, 6 callans, no lassies." ** Ye school 
taken up 22d June 1697, 13 weans, including 3 lassies." 

Female education seems at this early period to have been very 
much neglected, and former generations, perhaps, were still worse 
instructed. This might be one reason for a resolution still to be 
found in the minutes of session during the incumbency of Mr John 
Paisley, dated October 13th 1691. « William Glen, school- 
master, is required to take care that all his scholars get the Cate- 
chism so perquier, that by turns they may repeat the same before 
the congregation every Lord's day, one standing on the east end 
of the church inquiring the question, and the other in the west 
answering." 

Libraries. — There is a parochial library, which was instituted 
in 1823, and therefore is not yet large. Special care is taken 
to exclude from it all books hostile either to religion or government. 
Another parochial library, exclusively religious, was established 
in 1833. But many persons disliking this exclusive character, an- 
other was formed in 1834, called the Working- Man's Library; into 
which all kinds of books upon every subject are admitted, though 
containing the most conflicting opinions, except such as are 
hostile to evangelical religion. Long before the existence of any 
of these libraries there were book-clubs, which interfere with the 
prosperity of the parochial institutions. Some persons prefer these 
clubs not merely from their dislike of public libraries, but be- 
cause, after they have existed for some time, the books are sold, 
and divided amongst the members, which enlarge and improve their 
private libraries. There is likewise a small library of select books 
upon religious subjects, and adapted to the capacities of young per- 
sons attached to the Sabbath evening schools. This library is di- 
vided into seven portions, one of which is given to each of the 
schools for a year ; after which, they are exchanged like the circu- 
lating libraries in East Lothian, and every school has an opportu- 
nity of using the whole library in the course of seven years. 

Friendly Societies. — The oldest of these societies was the Far- 
mers' Box, which has been broken up ; but there is still one at 
HoUowood, connected with the landward part of the parish, whose 
existence is also endangered, not by poverty, but by injudicious 



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LOCHWINNOCH. 109 

interference. This society is large, and very rich, but in conse- 
quence of some legislative regulations, the members threaten to 
dissolve it One would think that " the powers that be" have 
enough to do, though they do not interfere with those who are 
managing their own affairs peaceably and prosperously. There 
were once eight Friendly Societies in the village of Lochwinnoch, 
but at least three have become extinct. There is also a Female 
Provident Society, formed upon the same principles. There is a 
Female Benevolent Society, supported and conducted by the ladies 
of the parish, which contributes essentially to the comfort of the 
poor. The village is divided into districts, and visitors are appoint- 
ed for each. The ladies visit all the poor in their respective dis- 
tricts, and after careful investigation, distribute clothing, fuel, &c., 
according to exigencies, — so that no person can remain in a state 
of wretchedness and want. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, Sfc — The average number of persons 
on the poors' roll for the last seven years has been 50f . A pauper 
receives from 9d. to 5s. a week. Besides regular paupers, how- 
ever, there are a great many who receive donations and occasional 
assistance in various ways. A large sum is expended in this way, 
because it keeps persons for sometime from becoming regular pau- 
pers, and is intended to encourage a spirit of independence, which 
is fast giving way in this part of the country. In order to form 
some idea of this matter, it may be stated, that in the course of 
the year 1832, the sum expended in the regular allowances to 
those on the poors' roll was L. 203 ; and the occasional donations 
amounted to L. 135, 6s. 2d. It is but fair to remark, however, 
that the greater part of these donations were given to those who 
were likewise receiving regular parochial aid. Many rents are 
paid when extraordinary assistance is wanted in peculiar circum- 
stances, &C. 

The whole average expenditure for a year, both in occasional 
donations, and for the regular poor, during the last seven years, 
has been L. 321, 17s. 3|d. This sum is raised in the following 
manner : Average annual amount of parochial collections for the 
last seven years, L. 93, 17s. 4d. ; hearse and mortcloth ditto, 
L. 6, 10s. 5d. : proclamation of banns of marriage, do., L. 14, 4s» 
The remaining part of the funds was once raised by a regular 
annual assessment upon the heritors, feuars, and householders; 
but for some time past it has been raised by occasional voluntary 
contributions as they are required, in the same proportions, every 



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110 RENFREWSHIRE. 

person contributing as formerly according to his property, which is 
intended to retard the increase of expenditure. Of this sum, the 
heritors contribute by far the greater part ; the feuars and house- 
holders paying only L. 35, when the heritors pay L. 166. * 

There is no prison in this place, though it is much wanted, 
and has often been talked of ; but there is a very active fiscal, and 
a bench of Magistrates or Justices of Peace, who hold a court on 
the first Saturday of every month. 

Fairs. — ^ There are three fairs held in this parish in the course 
of the year. The oldest is called the fair of Hill, from the place 
where it originally met, viz. on the Market Hill. It has been 
held from time immemorial, on the first Tuesday of November, 
old style, but has met for a long time past in the village of Loch- 
winnoch. Originally, a great variety of clothes, shoes, &c. were 
sold at this fair, — at present it is only a market for cattle, and a 
time for meeting and settling Martinmas and other accounts. 

The May fair or trades' race, is held on the second Tuesday of 
May, old style. It was begun about the year 1745 or 1750. The 
trades had originally a parade, which has long been discontinued ; 
but there is still sometimes a race of one kind or another. There 
are some cattle in the market in the course of the day, and many 
meet in the afternoon to settle their Whitsunday accounts. 

The farmers' parade or race is held on the first Tuesday of July. 
It is of a still later date than the former. At one time, the far- 
mers from all parts of the parish mustered at this parade ; but for 
some time those on the south side of the loch have withdrawn, and 
there is some prospect of its being discontinued altogether. Still, 
however, a number of those on the north side of the loch have hi- 
therto appeared at the parade. The horses used to be arranged 
according to their colours, with a captain at the head of each com- 
pany, and the whole marched under the command of a colonel* 
The hats of the riders are adorned with ribbons, flowers, and new- 
shot oats, and some of them have showy sashes and other orna- 
ments. The trappings of the horses are equally showy. One 
of them carries a large flag, and they are accompanied by a piper, 
and sometimes a band of instrumental music. Some of those who 
ride the fleetest steeds, after the parade is over, try their speed in 
a horse race. There are a few cattle at this fair likewise. 

• William Brown, Esq, who died in Antigua in October 1836, has left L.4000( 
which is to be invested, and the interest to be given over to the kirk-session of 
this parish for behoof of the poor. l*his sum, it is hoped, will soon go far to super- 
sede the need of an assessment. 

3 



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LOCHWINNOCH. Ill 

Inns. — There are 24 bns in this parish, which are too many, and 
do an incalculable amount of mischief without being balanced by 
almost any good. The institution of temperance societies led to an 
inquiry into the quantity of ardent spirits and other liquors used 
here, and the melancholy and astounding fact was forced upon us, 
that in this, as in the neighbouring parishes, three or four times 
more money is expended in this manner than is required to support 
both our churches and schools, and all our charitable and religious 
institutions. 

Fuel. — It has already been remarked that there are two coal- 
pits in the parish,— one in its eastern, and the' other in its western 
extremity. There was one lately in its centre, near the village of 
Lochwinnoch, ^nd there are beds of coal in various other places. 
Quarrelton is only a mile or two beyond our eastern boundary, 
where there is one of the most remarkable beds of coal in Great 
Britain, if not in Europe ; and there are coal-pits equally numerous 
and valuable in the opposite direction, beyond our western bound- 
ary. A load of coals is sold at 7d., eight of which make an ordinary 
cart The proprietors and farmers in the eastern, and more 
especially the western, extremity of the parish burn turf, but coal is 
most generally used throughout the parish. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The changes in this parish since the last Statistical Account 
was written, have been rather progressive than sudden or remark- 
able. There has been a departure, if it be not an advancement, 
from a simple and more primitive state of society. The popula- 
tion is almost doubled, and though this increase has been chiefly in 
the manufacturing population, yet the country part of the parish is 
much changed. The farm-houses and lands are much improved. 
They are enclosed with hedges, and have every advantage from 
roads. There is more wealth and external comfort ; but I fear 
there is also more vanity and luxury, and perhaps immorality and 
crime. At the same time, while one class of a larger population 
tempt to the commission of evil, another class ^^ provokes to love 
and good works." There are now far more exertions made to pro- 
mote the intellectual and spiritual improvement of the inhabitants, 
and therefore there is more intelligence and zeal than was forty 
years ago. 

I do not pretend to understand the best system of husbandry, 
but have received the following hints from an intelligent person, a 
native of the parish, who has the management of an extensive dis- 
trict. 



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112 RENFREWSHIRE. 

The old-fashioned practice still generally prevails, of taking two 
white crops, and then usually, though not always, sowing down the 
ground with rye-grass seed. There are exceptions to this mode 
of farming, and it were of great importance for others to improve 
the rotation and kind of crops grown. 

The clay soils have been drained to a great extent of late years ; 
but the practice should be carried still farther ; and then the fol- 
lowing rotation of crops would be profitable if the situation be not 
too elevated: beans, wheat, turnips, followed by a white crop, 
and sown down with perennial rye-grass. Light soils are most ge- 
neral, and on them the best rotation is oats, potatoes, and oats 
again, or barley sown down with perennial rye-grass and clover. 
The culture of wheat was introduced here within the last twenty 
or twenty-five years, but has never been carried to any great ex- 
tent A large proportion of the parish is ill adapted to this crop. 
Indeed, a great deal of it is fitter for pasture than any kind of crop. 
There is a fine breed of Ayrshire cows ; and the butter and cheese 
derived from the dairy, — the rearing of young cattle, and fattening 
of others for the neighbouring markets of Paisley and Glasgow, 
are the best sources of emolument to the farmers on the more ele* 
vated districts. This kind of farming might in many places be 
improved by irrigating whinstone soils, and converting them into 
highly productive meadows. This was practised with great suc- 
cess by the late Andrew Moody of Heathfield, Esq. 

Though these hints may be of some use, yet the grand means 
of improvement are to aim at the moral and religious culture of 
the people. Mere intellectual culture and liberal acquirement, if 
not brought under the influence of religion, are not enough. There 
are hosts of politicians among the mechanics and workmen in every 
manufacturing district, who, in intellectual acumen and one kind 
of information, are elevated above their station ; and yet, from a 
want of regard to religion, and the industry and tranquillity which 
flow from it, are some of them indigent and unhappy, and neither 
amiable nor useful members of society. Religion ought to be the 
governing principle, not merely of individuals and families, but of 
magistrates and governments. Upon the latter it is incumbent to 
promote religion and good morals, just in the same manner as it 
belongs to them to do whatever may promote the peace and well- 
fare of society. 

Revised January 1836. 

4 

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PARISH OF INCHINNAN. 

PRESBYTERY OF PAISLEY, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. LAURENCE LOCKHART, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The name has been variously written, as Inchenan, 
Inchanan, Inchynan, Inchechynane, &c &c, but is now generally 
spelt Inchinnan. The first syllable is obviously composed of the 
Celtic word • signifying cm island or a peninsula^ while the ad- 
junct, according to one conjecture, is the plural of a word f derived 
from the same source, and signifying a river. Another conjecture 
is, that the adjunct is the name of Saint-Inan^l to whom the church 
is supposed to have been dedicated. In Bagimont's roll for Inch- 
innan, there is the substitution of KiUinan^ and which, according to 
the etymology that may be preferred, will mean either " the Church 
upon the Rivers^^^ or the Church of Saint Inan,*^ Chalmers affirms 
that this parish acquired the name of /ncAinnan, in consequence of 
the proximity of a long narrow island in the river White Cart, where 
it joins the Gryfe, opposite to the church. § Inasmuch, however, as 
the parish is bounded by rivers on three sides, its peninsular cha- 
racter may, with more probability, have given rise to the appella- 
tion* It may also be stated, that, according to a tradition, which is 

• Ynya (Vi^elsh), inn's (Gaelic), an it/and, also a peninsula, 

'f Ainhainan (Gaelic) rivers, sounds oinon. 

X We are told that St Inan was a confessor at Irvine in the ninth century ; that he 
wrote several theological works, whose titles are given ; and that, after accomplishing 
the pilgrimages of Rome and Jerusalem, he closed his life at Irvine, where multitudes 
were wont to assemble to witness the miracles supposed to be performed at his tomb. 
His festival was celebrated on the 18th of August — Dempster! Hist. £ccl. Gent. 
Scot., &c. printed for the Bannatvne Club. £din. 182SI, — also, Keith, 23d. Edition of 
1756. 

It may be added, that St Inan was tutelar saint of Beith. On a hill in that pariah 
a seat and a well still bear his name, and a fair is held annually, not, however, un the 
18th but on the SOth of August, which is called Tannansday, by corruption for St 
loan's day. 

§ Here Chalmers is undoubtedly in error. The only island in the White 
Cart is in the parish of Renfrew, and of modern and artificial origin, being mere- 
ly a section of land detached from the eastern bank of the river, by means of a 
canal which was cut, iu the memory of persons yet alive, for the purpose of removing 
the obstructions created by Inchinnan Bridge, to navigation between the river Clyde 
and the town of Paisley. There is an island in the Gryfe which might once corre- 
spond witL the description of Chalmers; but, always insignificant, it has been gradual- 
ly encroached upon by the water, and there is no longer any trace of it opposite to the 
church. 



RENFREW. H 

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114 RENFREWSHIRE. 

confirmed by the appearance of the surface, and of the soil beneath, 
a branch of the Gryfe formerly intersected the parish, a little way 
above the rocky elevation on which the church stands ; in which 
case the site of that building must have been once, in the strict 
sense, insular, as it still occasionally is, at high floods. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The extreme length is about 3^ miles, 
and its breadth varies from | of a mile to 2 miles or more. It is 
bounded on the north by the river Clyde, which divides it from 
the parish of Old Kilpatrick in Dumbartonshire. Its eastern and 
southern boundaries are formed respectively by the rivers Cart and 
Gryfe, which flow between it and the parish of Renfrew ; while 
westward it marches in an irregular line with the parish of Erskine, 
and touches at one point the parish of Houston. 

Topographical Appearances. — The surface, especially in the vi- 
cinity of the rivers, is flat, or gently sloped ; but it is diversified by 
a number of diluvial rising grounds, of considerable elevation, — 
some of them under the plough to the summit, others of them beau- 
tifully wooded, and all of them commanding extensive views of the 
surrounding country* The strath of the Gryfe is extensive and 
fertile, and reminds the English traveller of his native vales. 

Climate and Diseases. — The climate, although moist, is health- 
ful. It has been alleged that, in former times, fevers were scarcely 
known here. At present, the place does not appear to have any 
greater degree of exemption from them than is enjoyed by other well- 
aired localities. Cases of tj'phus and scarlet fever occur almost every 
year, — seldom, however, with fatal results. Last year, the natural 
small pox prevailed extensively amongst persons of various ages, who 
had all been vaccinated in infancy ; but in no instance did the dis- 
ease destroy life or disfigure the countenance. On a recent occa- 
sion, when Asiatic cholera afflicted the towns and villages of the 
neighbourhood, a young healthy man, and an aged woman, both 
of temperate habits, and residing under the same roof in a seclu- 
ded cottage, were attacked during night almost simultaneously, and 
both cases proved rapidly fatal. As may be conceived, this melan- 
choly visitation created great alarm in the parish ; but happily the 
epidemic did not extend its ravages farther. 

Springs and Rivers* — In the higher parts, there are some springs 
of the best quality, devoid of any mineral taint, — and of refreshing 
coolness. Generally speaking, however, the wells are more or less 
chalybeate ; and those in the vicinity of the river Gryfe are often 
brackish during the drought of summer, when the salt water brought 



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INCHINNAN* 115 

up by the tide,* (whose influence extends considerably beyond the 
south-western boundary of the parish,) finds its way into them in a 
less diluted form than during the rest of the year. 

The character of the Clyde, in this neighbourhood, has been 
much altered of late years, in consequence of the operations of the 
river trustees, in deepening its bed for the improvement of the port 
of Glasgow. When the steam-boats commenced plying, and the 
dredgingf machines were first introduced, the salmon appeared for 
a time, in their fright, to have made their escape to less disturbed 
waters. Of late years, however, they have been caught in consi- 
derable quantities. The river Gryfe, a little way above the point 
where it begins to bound Inchinnan, is a clear and pebbly stream, 
with picturesque banks ; but in its farther progress its appearance 
is changed. Within the grounds of Walkinshaw it acquires an in- 
crease of volume by the influx of the Black Cart ; % and, as its 
subsequent course is through a rich and flat country, it becomes 
interesting chiefly from its windings. At last, sweeping past the 
church of Inchinnan, it is joined at Inchinnan bridge by the White 
Cart, and then the river, formed by the united streams, assuming 
simply the name of Cart, pursues its course in a broad channel, 
until it is lost in the Clyde at Blythswood House.§ The pike, 
eel, perch, and braize, abound in the Gryfe and Cart, and attract 

* The following anecdote is still current. In the earlj part of last century, the 
clergyman of Lamington, in the upper ward of Lanarkshure, had come to assist his 
friend the incumbent of Inchinnan on a sacramental occasion, travelling on horseback, 
and attended, according to the invariable practice, by his man, who, although from his 
Toc&tion a severe critic of sermons, was profoundly ignorant of the doctrine of the tides. 
During the course of the visit, the servant was astounded and alarmed to discover that 
the waters were moving in a direction the reverse of what he had previously witnessed ; 
whereupon concluding that some awful calamity impended, he hastened to his mas- 
ter's chamber, broke his slumbers, divulged the appalling phenomenon, suggested the 
prudence of immediate departure, and concluded by expressing a faint hope that they 
mi^ht yet reach Lamington in safety. 

t Each of these machines is worked by eight men. The quantity of stuff raised 
by them varies, of course, with the nature of the bottom. The superintendant of the 
river says he has seen 1200 tons raised in ten hours. 

^ This river, which takes its rise from Castle Semple Loch, In the parish of Loch- 
winnoch, is called KerUochwinoc, in the cbartulary of Paisley. 

§ In the Cart, before its confluence with the Clyde, is a small island called Colin*s 
Ide, which, according to popular tradition, originated in the stranding of a vessel. 
I>uring a long pending litigation, which was the consequence, the vessel was not re- 
moved, and the mud and sand had so accumulated around it, that by the time the de- 
cision came to be pronounced, it had become a picturesque Uttle island, covered with 
thriring firs. This story was doubtless invented as a hit against the lawyers, who 
abound in the neighbouring town of Paisley, but has called forth some pretty verses 
firem Mr Park, the poet of Renfrew. The surrounding scenes above referred to are 
universally admired for their amenity and tranquil beauty, and were in former times 
embalmed in song by John Wilson, the author of Clyde, a poem, edited by the late 
Dr Leyden in 1803. 

*< Where the proud bridge on stately arches rides, 
And from his height surveys the slumbering tides. 



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116 RENFREWSHIRE. 

the disciples of Isaac Walton. The hand-loom weaver from Pais- 
ley, recognized by his wan looks, green apron, and suit of rusty vel- 
veteen, may frequently be seen angling for the fish last mentioned, 
of which, though impregnated with a muddy flavour, he content- 
eidly makes his meal, and thinks himself fortunate if he can suc- 
ceed in filling his creel in the course of a day's fishing. Could not 
a paternal government stretch forth its hand and do something to 
ameliorate the cx)ndition of a most meritorious class of men, who 
have sufiered a long depression, not from any fault of their own, 
but solely in consequence of those improvements in machinery 
which have proved so beneficial to the community at large ? Let 
them have but a feir remuneration for their labour, and their native 
good sense will soon teach them to concern themselves with other 
matters than annual parliaments and universal suffrage. 

Geology and Mineralogy, — The geological features of thb pa- 
rish are not of so striking and peculiar a nature as to demand any 
but a very brief notice. In so far as regfirds the character and compo- 
sition of its surfece, it presents the usual phenomena peculiar to the 
diluvial deposit of the surrounding country. The diluvium itself 
consists for the most part of a loose gravel, containing a multitude 
of interspersed boulders of primary as well as secondary rocks, 
which from their character appear to have been transported from a 
north-western locality. The strata inunediately beneath this di- 
luvial covering belong to that series of the secondary division of 
rocks denominated carboniferous. This is indicated by the alter- 
nations they exhibit of grey sandstone, shale, and coal, which are 
more or less conspicuous in the quarries that have been opened. 
In these sandstones, very beautiftil specimens of the fossil Flora, which 
are supposed to be characteristic of the independent coal formation, 
are found. The manner in which several whin dikes traverse these 
strata is not unworthy of notice. — Some of them are of great thickness, 
and have been, during a long series of years, extensively quarried for 

No rootion dares his amorous sloth molest 

Or ruffle Blythsil'ood's image on the breast. 

OftranquilCart, &c. 

Ciyde, a Poem, p. 95. 
Mr Wilson died master of the grammar school at Greenock, bdbre his deetion to 
which situation he had been taken bound by the magistrates and minister, to aban- 
don for ever " ihe profane and unprq/Uable art of poem-making,^' To this severe demand 
he submitted for the sake of his family. In a letter to his son, we have the follow- 
ing doleful passage : << I once thought to live by the breath of fame, but how miser- 
amy disappointed, when, instead of being caressed by the great, F was condemned to 
bawl myself hoarse among wayward brats, to cultivate sand, and wash Ethiopians for 
all the dreary days of an obscure life, the contempt of shopkeepers and brutish skippers.** 
.-^Biographical sketch by Dr Leyden. 



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INCHINNAN. 117 

paving and macadamizing purposes. The simple minerals are too 
insignificant to call for any particular remarks, being confined to a 
few crystals of calc-spar, which are occasionally found in the strata 
above referred to. 

Soik. — The soil consists chiefly of strong productive clay. On 
the banks of the rivers, it is of a rich loamy description. — In the 
higher parts, it is gravelly, approaching more or less to what is cal- 
led dry field. 

Zoology. — The weasel, hedgehog, and mole, abound here. The 
country people complain of the number of foxes ; but it may be 
doubted whether they would resign the enlivening spectacle of 
the hunt passing through their borders, for the sake of the few 
barn-door fowls that the fox now and then appropriates. Hares 
find good cover in this parish, and are plentiful, especially in Lord 
Blantyre's grounds, where they are preserved. The sportsman 
finds abundance of snipes, and occasionally a wild duck and water- 
hen on the boggy banks of the Gryfe, Cart, and Clyde. Pheasants 
and partridges are tolerably abundant, and grouse are occasion-* 
ally met with in the moss of Southbarr.— The thrush, blackbird, 
and other warblers, exist in great abundance. The cuckoo pays an 
annual visit, also the land-raiL Great flocks of lapwings or pee- 
wits are continually flying about flapping the air with their wings. 
The halcyon or kingfisher builds in Colin's isle. There are nests 
of common herons on some high fir trees in Park wood, adjacent 
to the Newshot isle in the Clyde, where they are sometimes seen 
in considerable nimibers catching their prey. Owls and other 
doleful creatures occasionally haunt the tower of the parish church, 
whilst the space between the ceiling and the roof shelters a pro- 
fusion of bats. 

Botany, — On this head the place affords but scanty materials for 
description. The writer has not remarked any species of indige- 
nous plants within the parish, not noticed in Hopkirk's Flora Glot- 
tiana. In the pleasure grounds of Park, the horse-chesnut and 
walnut trees produce ripe fruit in abundance, and the laurels have 
in the lapse of an unusually short period reached the height of 
thirty feet .The rarer herbaceous plants are also cultivated with 
great success. At Southbarr, there is an extensive range of hot- 
houses, contaming a valuable assortment of green-house plants, 
vines, &c. In the lawn, the fir, oak, beech, elm, &c. have found 
a congenial soil, and although principally planted within the last 
fifty years, have reached dimensions rarely attained in so limited a 



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118 RENFREWSHIRE. 

time. The plantations at Rashelee are also in a most thriving con- 
dition. 

11. — Civil History. 
Historical Notices. — The lands of Inchinnan formed one of the 
numerous grants which the Stewarts obtained from the Kings of 
Scotland, before their own race became royal. By a charter dated 
at the Castle of Roxburgh, a. d. 1 158, in which King Malcolm IV. 
eonfirmed Walter (filius Alani) the first undoubted High Stewart 
of Scotland, in his office, and in the lands he had received from 
King David, he bestowed upon him some new privileges and grants 
of land. Among the latter Inchinnan * is specified. About the 
middle of the thirteenth century we find Alexander, High Stew- 
art, mortifying to the monks of Paisley, chalders of meal from 
his lands of Inchinnan.\ During the reign of Robert I. Wal- 
ter the High Stewart gave some valuable J portions of the pro- 
perty to Sir Walter Hamilton, ancestor of the Duke of Hamilton: 
but it would appear that, early in the fourteenth century, all that had 
been retained of the original grant was bestowed upon the Stew- 
arts of Damley, who became subsequently Earls and ultimately 
Dukes of Lennox. In 1361, Sir John Stewart of Darnley, having 
personally resigned all the lands of Crookisfow, Inchinnan^ and Perth- 
wyckscott, with their pertinents, into the hands of Robert the 
High Stewart (afterwards King Robert IL), had the same granted 
to him by an original charter. To Matthew, Lord Damley, and 
second Earl of Lennox, the descendant and representative of the 
above Sir John Stewart, James IV. granted in 1511 a charter of 
confirmation, containing a clause by which His Majesty, from the spe- 
cial favour which he bears towards his cousin the said Earl, and for 
the gratuitous services rendered by him, and for the preservation 
of the Castle of Crookisfow, the manor and palace of Inchinnan, and 
other policies within the lordship of Damley, from the devastation 

* Prasterea ego ipse eidem Waltero in feudo et hereditate dedi, et hac eadeixi carta 
confirmavl pro servitio quod ipsi regi David et mihi fecit Prethe quantum rex Da- 
vid in manu sua tenui et Jnchienufiy &c.— Vide Appendix to Chartulary of Paisley, 
p. 1, printed for the Maitland Club. 

f Omnibus Cristi fidelibus, &c Sciatis me dedisse, concessisse, et carta mea con- 
fir masse Deo et Sancto Jacobo et Sancto Mirino roonasterii de Passelet et monachis 
ibidem deo servientibus, &c. duas celdras farine singulis annis percipiendas de fir- 
ma mea de Inchynnan, &c. — Chartulary of Paisley, p. 87. 

\ Barnhill, Alands, Newlands, &c.— These, according to Hamilton of Wishaw, 
(Description of the Shires of Lanark and Renfrew, printed for the Maitland Club, 
1831, p. 67,) were commonly said to have been a god bairn gift. They afterwards be- 
longed successively to the Erskines, Hamilton of Orbiston, Graham of Dougalston, 
Ix)rd Douglas, M'Dowall of V^'^alkinsbaw, and are now the property of W. M. Alex- 
ander, Esq. of Southbarr, and Mrs Redfearn. 

3 



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INCHINNAN. 119 

and destruction that might happen to them during the time that 

the said lands might be in ward — granted and conBrmed to the 

-said Matthew, Earl of Lennox, and his heirs male, the said castle 

and fortalice of Crookisfow, &c. and the said manor and palace 

of Inchinnan, with the parks and gardens thereof, the Dominical* 

lands of Inchinnan, the lands of Quithill, the town of Inchinnan, 

Ruschaled, Wirthland, Flurys, Gardenerland, &c. with the whole 

commons thereof, extending also to a L. 20 land of old extent, &c. 

to be held by the said Matthew Earl of Lennox, &c. of and under 

His Majesty and his successors. Kings and Stewarts of Scotland, 

in fee and heritage, in free blanch farm for ever, for payment of 

a penny silver if asked, allenarly, notwithstanding that the said 

Lordship of Damley was formerly held by service of ward and 

relief, &c. — Stewart's Genealogical Hist, of the Stewarts, pp. 71, 

212, 2ia 

Upon the death of Matthew, fourth Earl of Lennox, in 1571, 
his grandson King James VL, as heir male of the Stewarts of Dam- 
ley and Lennox, became entitled to the honours and estates of that 
family; but unwilling that they should be absorbed in the crown, 
he conferred them in the first instance upon his uncle Charles Stew- 
art, and, after the death of the latter without issue, upon his grand- 
uncle Robert Stewart, Bishop of Caithness. When the latter accepted 
the earldom of March, the Lennox estates and titles were granted 
by the King to Esm^ Stewart Lord d'Aubigny (the son and heir 
of John Lordd' Aubigny, the youngest brother* of the King's grand- 
father Matthew Earl of Lennox), and whom he farther elevated to 
a dukedom in 1581. In 1672, this line having failed in the person 
of Charles sixth Duke of Lennox, also Duke of Richmond, (the 
husband of the beautiful Frances Stewart of the noble house of 
Blantyre) they once more reverted to the Crown ; and Charles II. 
was served heir at Edinburgh 1680. The retour of the special ser 
vice on that occasion specifies the lands of Inchinnan with the pa- 
tronage of the parish church, Charles immediately transferred the 
Lennox estates to his natural son Charles Lennox, whom he had 
previously created Duke of Lennox and Richmond ; by whom they 
were sold about the beginning of last century to James, Marquis 
and afterwards Duke of Montrose, and who, notwithstanding the 

* That is Mainet lands or lands occupied or laboured by the Lord of the manor. 
Vide Skene's explanation of Terrce thminicalet, in his work " De Verborum Signifi- 
catione, or tbe exposition of the terms or difficult words conteint in the foure buikea 
of Regiam Majestatem and others." — These lands now form the farm of OldmaititK 



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120 RENFREWSHIRE. 

numerous* alienations of former times, became then proprietor or 
superior of by far the more considerable part of this parish. The 
said property now belongs to Archibald Campbell, Esq. of Blyths- 
wood, Lord Lieutenant of the county, his ancestor haying purchas- 
ed it from James Duke of Montrose in the year 1737. 
Land-ovmers^ with their respective valuationa. 

Archibald Campbell of Blythswood, . . L. 900 
W. M. Alexander of Southbarr, and Mrs Redfearn, joint pro- 
prietors of Walkinshaw, . . . 463 6 8 
W. M. Alexander, Southbarr, • . . 203 6 8 
The Lord Blantyre, . . . . 200 
Matthew Killoch of Freeland, . • 160 
William Fulton of Park, . . . . 157 6 8 
William Maxwell of DargaveVs Lands of Rashelee, . 96 
Miss Balfour of House of Hill, . . . 85 6 8 
John Algief of Greenhead, . . . 20 
J. Crawford of Ferrycroft, . . 16 13 4 
The Lord Douglas, . . . . 9 
Robert Cameron of Ladyacre, . . . . 6 13 4 

L. 2398 13 4 
Few of these heritors are resident in the parish, but most of them 
have seats in the neighbourhood. 

Family Descent. — Mr Campbell of Blythswood is descended by 
a female from the family of Ardkinlas ; but his name was original- 
ly Douglas, and he is male representative of the family of Dou- 
glas of Mains in Dumbartonshire. 

* Thus Matthew Earl of Lennox had, in 1497, giTen Norlhharr and Raahdee to 
his relative Thomas Stewart, the first of the family of Barscube. Northbarrwas pur- 
chased by Donald M*Gilchrist in 1670. About the middle of last century, it was 
purchased by the Lord Semple. It is now the property of Lord Blantyre* and is 
connected with the grounds of Erskine by means of a bridge thrown across the pub- 
lic road close to Erskine ferry. 

Rashelee has been in the possession of the family of the present proprietor, Wil- 
liam Maxwell, Esq. of Dargavel, for upwards of three centuries, — his ancestor, Patrick 
Maxwell of Newark, having acquired it from the family of Lennox previously to 
1516. Southbarr had been long possessed by another branch of the Maxwell &mily. 
and was purchased by the late Boyd Alexander, Esq. in the year 1785. 
' The lands of Park were granted in 1522 by John Earl of Lennox, to bis kinsman, 
William Stirling of Glorat. This beautiful property appears to have passed through 
many hands. It was purchased in 1787 from a family of the name of Campbell by 
the father of the present proprietor, William Fulton, Esq. who has recently adver- 
tised it for sale. 

Freeland, says Crawford, was in old times the inheritance of the Stewarts of Kil- 
croy. It was called by them Freeland Stewart, which name was changed to Freeland 
Brisbane, by a new proprietor who had the latter surname. When Crawford wrote 
it was the property of William Maxwell, brother to the Laird of DargaveL The fii^ 
ther of the present proprietor, Matthew KiQoch, Esq. purchased it from a genUeman 
of the name of Ker. 

i- There are several resi)ectable farmers in this parish of the name of ^Igie or AU 
goctSL name peculiar, it is believed, to this part of the country. In former times a 
family of this name had considerable estates in Renfrewshire, and were of Italian ori- 
gin, the first of them having come from Rome in the suite of one of the Abbots of 
Paisley. The Algies of Inchinuan are spirited formers, and the name, along with 
others in this place, frequently flourishes amongst the prize takers at ploughing- 
matches. 



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INCHINNAN. 121 

Mr Maxwell Alexander of Southbarr, (nephew of the late pro- 
prietor) is second son of the deceased Claud Alexander, Esq. of 
Ballochmyle, of the family of Newton, cadets of Blackhouse, 

Mr Maxwell of Dargavel is male representative of the Halls of 
Fulhar, who obtained their estate from King Robert IL, and as- 
sumed the name of Maxwell at the beginning of last century, when 
they succeeded through a female to the family of Dargavel, cadets of 
the Maxwells of Newark, who sprung from the family of Calder- 
wood in Lanarkshire. 

Miss Balfour of House of Hill, now called Northbarr, is mater- 
nally descended from Donald M'Gilchrist, who purchased North- 
barr proper in 1671, and claimed descent from Donaldus M*Git 
christ Lord of Tarbart, who lived in the time of Robert the Bruce, 
and was a bene&ctor to the monastery of Paisley. 

Eminent Men, — Of these there are several at this moment re- 
sident, but their merits must be left to the statistical pen of some 
future incumbent Looking to former times, Mr Robert Law, au- 
thor of the Memorials of Scotland, appears to have been bom here. 
He was the son of the Rev. Thomas Law, ininister of Inchinnan 
in the early part of the seventeenth century, and the grandson of 
James Law, Archbishop of Glasgow. This parish also produced 
a gentleman of the name of Maxwell, the younger of Southbarr, 
who wrote verses, and died in early life in the beginning of the 
seventeenth century. The late lamented Mr Motherwell possessed 
a MS. volume of verses which he attributed to Maxwell's pen, and 
published some extracts in the Paisley Magazine. If we may judge 
from the specimen appended, the muse of the Inchinnan poet did 
not soar to the sublime. * 

Parochial Registers. — These, although consisting of several vo- 
lumes, do not extend farther back than to the year 1722. The lists 

* Glen. Bayth fals and greedie et nunquam leal 

Poet baud nedie, bayth fals and gre«die, 

And ower speedie to flatter and steil, 

Bayth &Is and greedie et nunquam leaL 
Biaeb. Bancbagrie is my castellum, gif ye it seik 

With clay wallis, for bellum Barschagrie is my castelluin, 

Courit wt smeik and smelling wt suete scbaime and reik, 

Barschagrie is my castellum gif ye it seik. 
Abo. Pas. The ministeris intendis to get the teind beir. 

The abote miskendis that the ministeris intendis ; 

The granter defendis and garis them sing perqueir, 

The minister intendis to get the teind heir. 
Mor. Max. I hasarde my guid name, my lyfe and my land, 

To bring the Douglas hame I bazarde my guid name, 

And now to bring me to schame yai do yat thai can, 

Causs I hazard my guid name, my life and my land. 

P. M* p. 9o5 



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122 RENFREWSHIRE. 

of births, baptisms and marriages are intermingled with accounts 
of the money collected at the church door on Sundays, and state- 
ments of the expenditure in behalf of the poor, together with the 
minutes of the proceedings of the kirk-session in matters of disci- 
pline. 

The older documents are so conftised and unsatisfectory, and 
some of them in such a state of decay, that the kirk-session have 
ordered the whole to be transcribed by the parochial teacher, Mr 
Galloway, whose accuracy and intelligence are a security for the task 
being properly executed. Had the more ancient records been 
preserved, we might have found some details on the subject of 
witchcraft.* 

* An account of the Confession and Death of John Reid, smith in Inchinnan, who made 
a discovery conform to the former witnesses after the trial was over, — Upon the 2 1st of 
May 1697, after the trial of the seven witches, there is an attestation subscribed by 
Mr Patrick Simpson, minister at Renfrew, Walter Scott, bailie there, &c. of this 
import, John Beidt smith in Inchinnan^ prisoner, did in presence of the said persons 
and some others, declare, that about a year ago the devil (whom he knew to be such 
thereafter) appeared to him when he was travelling in the night time, but spoke none 
to him at the first encounter. At the second appearance he gave him a bite or nip 
in his loin, which he found painful for a fortnight. That the third time he appeared 
to him as a black man, and desired him to engage in his service, upon assurance of 
getting gear and comfort in the world, since he should not want any thing that he 
would ask in the devil's name : and then he renounced his baptism, putting the one 
band to the crown of his head, and the other to the sole of his foot, thereby giving 
himself up to Satan's service, after which the pain of the bite or nip ceased. Ue told 
that hitherto there were no others present ; but thereafter he was at several meetings, 
particularly that in Bargarran's yard, about the time when there was a fast for Chris- 
tian Shaw ; where the devil appeared in the same kind of garb as he first appeared 
to him, and they consulted Christian's death, either by worrying or drowning her in 
the well, and the devil said, he should warrant them, that they should neither be 
heard, seen, nor confess ; to which end he gave every one of them a bit of fiesh ; that 
the declarant got, but let it fall and did not eat it. Thereafter, in the presence of the 
laird of Jordanhill, the minister, Mr Andrew Cochrane, town-clerk, and Bailie Pater- 
son, he owned his former confessions : and being enquired of Jordanhill how they 
were advertised of their meetings, he said that ordinarily at their meetings the time 
of the next was appointed ; but for particular warning there appeared a black dog 
with a chain about his neck, who tinkling it, they were to follow, &c. And being 
enquired by the minister, if he did now wholly renounce the devil (for he had for- 
merly told how Satan had not performed his promise) and give himself to Jesus 
Christ, and desire to find mercy of God through him : he assented thereunto. It is 
to be observed that John Reid, after his confession, had called out of the prison win- 
dow, desiring Bailie Scott to keep that old body Angus Forrester, who had been his 
fellow prisoner, close and secure ; whereupon the company asked John, when they 
were leaving him, on Friday's night the 21st of May, whether he desired company, 
or would be afraid alone ; he said he had no fear of any thing. So being left till Sa- 
turday's forenoon, he was found in this posture, viz. sitting upon a stool, which was 
on the heart-h of the chimney, with his feet on the floor and his body straight upward, 
his shoulders touching the lintel of the chimney, but his neck tied with his own neck- 
cloth (whereof the knot was behind) to a small stick thrust into a clift above the lin- 
tel of the chimney; upon which the company, especially John Campbell, a surgeon, 
who was called, thought at first, in respect of his being in an ordinary posture of sit- 
ting, and the neckcloth not having any run loup, but an ordinary knot, which was 
not very strait, and the stick not having the strength to bear the weight of his body 
or the struggle, that he had not been quite dead ; but finding it otherwise, and that 
he was in such a situation, that he could not have been the actor thereof himself, con- 
cluded that some extraordinary cause had done it, especially, considerbg that the 



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INCHINNAN. 123 

Antiquities. — The palace of Inchinnan, referred to in the histo- 
rical notices, stood near to the site of the farm-steading of Gama- 
land, on the north side of the parish, and looking towards the Clyde. 
It was built by Matthew, Earl of Lennox, in the year 1506. 
When Crawford wrote his history of the shire of Renfrew, there 
were " some considerable remains of it" Persons still in Ufe re- 
collect having seen a portion of the ruins, which, however, having 
been found to contain some good materials for building, were, in 
the absence of the laird, condemned to contribute their share of a 
gable to the ferm-house adjacent Had the structure been of any 
great consequence, it would not, it is likely, have feillen so early in- 
to decay; a conclusion strengthened by the feict, that the castle of 
Crookston, the principal residence of the Dameley Stewarts, now 
in ruins, is only five miles distant from Inchinnan, and by another 
fact referred to in the historical notices, viz. that the lands of Park, 
immediately adjoining the palace, were alienated a few years after ' 
the date of the erection of the palace. It may be added, that there 
is no evidence of charters having been dated at the palace of In- 
chinnan. From a wall in an old mill near to the site of the palace, 
and recently pulled down, was taken a stone, which is referred to 
by Semple in the continuation of Crawford's history of the county ; 
it is now deposited within the tower of the church, and is inscribed 
as follows:* 



D.D 

FSL. HCL 

16.31 



The former church of Inchinnan, which was pulled down in the 
year 1828, was a very ancient structure, upwards of 50 feet in 
length by only 18 feet in breadth, with an antique scarcement to 
throw oflF the rain from the foundation. Its walls were of great thick- 
ness. The side wall to the south presented several frightful fissures, 
which were observed suddenly to increase, and having, moreover, 

door of the room was secured, and that there was a board set over the window, which 
was not there the night before when they left him. 

The seven witches alluded to in the above extract were three men and four wo- 
men, executed at Paisley for the bewitching of Christian Shaw, daughter of Bargar- 
ran, on Thursday the 10th June 1697. They were first hanged for a few minutes, 
and then cut down, and put into a fire prepared for them, into which a barrel of tar 
was put in order to consume them more quickly — Vide a History of the Witches of 
Renfrewshire, who were burnt on the Gallow- green of Paisley. Paisley, 12mo. 1809. 

* The antiquarianism of the place and neighbourhood has not yet interpreted the 
above inscription ; and the writer deems it prudent to hazard no conjecture on the 
sulgect, calling to remembrance the embarrassing position of a distmguished anti- 
quary, who, after having made as he thought the profound discovery, that A. D. L L. 
meant Agricota dicavit Lihent^ Luberu, was required to abandon it for the true in- 
terpretation, which turned out to be, Aiken Drum** Lang Ladle»»^ Antiquwryf new 
edit. Vol. i. p. 60. 



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124 RENFREWSHIRE. 

begun to bulge out from the eaves downwards, it was pronounced 
by tradesmen to be in a very dangerous state ; yet it was brought 
down with greater difficulty than the eastern gable, which, accord- 
ing to tradition, had been rebuilt towards the close of the seven- 
teenth century. Silver and copper coins of the reigns of William 
and Mary, Henry IV. of France, &c. were found in the ruins, but 
there was no appearance of their having been deposited by design* 
When the floors were lifted, an immense quantity of human bones 
was found. The area was literally paved with skulls. The beams 
of the roof were of solid oak, some of them perfectly fresh, and 
with marks of having formerly belonged to a building of quite dif- 
ferent dimensions, — thus confirming the current tradition, that, when 
the palace of Inchinnan became ruinous, the beams which had sup- 
ported its roof were partly transferred to the parish church, which 
happened at the time to require repair. It is believed that the 
old church of the adjoining parish of Erskine was supplied in the 
same way from the same source. In the church-yard, all the old 
tomb-stones, of which many remain, have crosses of difierent forms 
sculptured upon them. The parishioners point out what tradition 
has taught them to call the Templars graves. The stones cover- 
ing them, now reduced to four in number, are not flat but ridged ; 
and upon their sloping sides, figures of swords may be distinctly 
traced. If ever there were stone coffins under them, it is long 
since they have disappeared, and the graves themselves have been 
appropriated from time immemorial to the use of the parishioners. 
Modem Buildings, — The only buildings of any architectural 
pretensions are the church and bridge of Inchinnan. The for- 
mer is Gothic, with a massive square tower, buttresses, &c. and is 
much admired. The latter is an elegant structure, consisting of 
two divisions, under one of which the Grj-fe passes, while the other 
is thrown across the White Cart It was erected at an expense of 
L. 17,000. The house of Southbarr was, with the exception of 
one wing, destroyed some years ago by accidental fire, and has not 
yet been rebuilt 

III. — Population. 

Ill 175o, the iK>pulation amounted to 397 
1791, ... 806 



1801, 
IBll, 
1B21, 
1831, 



462 
641 
58-i 
620 



The diminution of the population between 1755 and 1791, is 

to be accounted for, partly by jhe removal of a distillery, and 

4 



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INCHINNAN. 125 

partly by the consolidation of farms, — to which miist be added the 
growth of the manufactures of Paisley, which seduced cottars from 
country parishes adjacent The increase from 1791 to 1801, 
arose in some degree from the impetus of the high prices of grain, 
which prompted the &rmer to subject his pastures more extensive- 
ly to the plough, rendering more hands necessary ; also from the 
opening of quarries at Park, and extensive improvements on the 
estate of Southbarr, — both which causes operated so as either to pro- 
duce an influx of new labourers, or to detain those who, under 
other circumstances, would have sought employment elsewhere. 
The farther increase at 1811 depended on the introduction of 
some families for the purpose of reclaiming some moss land on the 
estate of Southbarr, but principally on the building of Inchinnan 
bridge, which brought an influx of labourers. Since that time the 
population has varied from year to year; but the comparatively 
high average still maintained is to be ascribed to the increased 
demand for labour on the Clyde, in the quarries, and in the drain- 
ing of land. The numbers of males and females are nearly equal, 
and there are no insane, fatuous, blind, or deaf and dumb })ersons 
in the parish. Instances of longevity occur, it is believed, with 
greater frequency than is conmion among a population so limited in 
number. A female died this season who had nearly completed 
ninety-six years, and retained her faculties in wonderfril preserva- 
tion until a short time before her death. 

Character of the People, Customs, Habits, Sfc, — In their general 
character the people are intelligent and well conducted, neighbourly 
and kind, and exemplary in their attendance on divine ordinances. 
There is scarcely a person who can be called a gross and habitual 
drunkard ; but abuses sometimes attend the celebration of new-year's- 
day, and in consequence of the old habit of transacting business 
over a glass, there is a great risk of habits of intemperance being 
fonned. 

Here, as elsewhere in Scotland, funerals were formerly conduct- 
ed at a great and even ruinous expense. — The company invited 
was unnecessarily large, and observed little punctuality in assem- 
bling. It was not uncommon to have what was called a triple 
service, which meant that three glasses, two of wine and one of 
spirits, were ofiered successively to each person present Even 
the double service is going into desuetude, a single glass of wine 
being, generally speaking, all that is now offered in the shape of 
liquor. After the last duties have been performed at the church- 



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126 RENFREWSHIRE. 

yard, the immediate relatives and intimate friends return to the 
house where the death has occurred, to condole with the survivors ; 
on which occasion a simple repast is served up. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agricalture and Rural Eamcrmy. — With a few trifling exceptions, 
the whole population is agricultural, or engaged in pursuits subsi- 
diary to husbandry, or arising out of the ordinary wants of the 
people. There are 3 smiths, 3 carpenters, * 1 shoemaker, 1 
weaver, I tailor, and 1 coal-jnerchant, who brings his coals by water 
to a wharf at Inchinnan Bridge. The number of persons employ- 
ed in the quarries varies considerably at different times, and some 
of them have their domiciles in other parishes. There are five in- 
dividuals who rent small portions of land, which they cultivate in 
addition to other occupations. Three farmers live principally by sup- 
plying distilleries with peats, which Southbarr moss furnishes of the 
best quality. Large quantities are conveyed by water-carriage to 
Edinburgh, Clackmannan, &c. at the rate of 7s. per ton, and others 
are taken by land carriage to Glasgow, Greenock, &c The num- 
ber of farms exclusively occupying the attention of the former is 
19. Their extent varies from 36 imperial acres to 216, and the 
leases are universally of nineteen years duration. 

Rent of Land. — Grain rents regulated according to the fiar prices 
are most usual. Upon an average, the land is let at one boll and 
a-half of wheat per acre. 

Rate of Wages. — Agricultural labourers are generally paid at the 
rate of 10s. a-week in winter, and 12s. in summer; women earn 
about Is. a-day, and during harvest about 2s.; ploughmen are hired 
at L. 9 for the half-year, with bed, board, and washing. Married 
ploughmen receive about 10s. a-week, with a free house and small 
garden. In some instances more is given, in others less ; female 
servants are hired at L. 4 in the half-year ; those who drive the 
milk to market receive L. 5, being responsible for the payments. 
Quarriers earn at the rate of 12s. weekly in winter, and 1&. in sum- 
mer; good carpenters receive about 16s. The harvest is now ge- 
nerally reaped by the Irish, who arrive in great numbers for that 
purpose. Their wages have averaged during the last two seasons 
2s. 6d. per day. Paisley affords a considerable employment to the 
females of this parish in the embroidering of crape shawls and other 
fancy departments of manufacture. These works they execute in 

* One of these, Mr M^Kean, has erected a steam-engine to assist him in his la- 
]x>urB. The machinery is so constructed; as at once to saw timber and thrash grain. 



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INCHINNAN* 127 

their own houses, and clever girls make from lOd. to Is. a-day, 
which often enables them to assist their parents in old age, or when 
under disease. 

Quarries and Mines, — Lunestone and coal exist in abundance, 
and have been both wrought, the former to a considerable extent ; 
but the proprietors have not encouraged extensive operations in 
these departments. The quarries of freestone on the estate of 
j^ark have been extensively wrought, and produce stone of superior 
quality. The church and bridge of Inchinnan were built of it 
Kashelee is rich in the same products. Freestone of a good co- 
lour and very durable quality, is now being wrought with great 
spirit Since the year 1760, its whin dikes have supplied the river 
trustees with all the stone required by their extensive improvements 
in contracting the channel and deepening the bed of the river. 

Husbandry. — The land is in a high state of cultivation, and all 
the modem improvements with respect to rotation of crops, manures, 
and draining, have been adopted. Where stones can conveniently 
be had, they are used for the latter purpose ; but tiles are in most 
request A tile-work has been recently erected on the estate of 
Blythswood. The tenants are supplied with tiles at the rate of one 
guinea per thousand, and they are permitted to drain to any ex- 
tent, Mr Campbell defraying the inmiediate expense, and they, dur- 
ing the continuance of their leases, paying interest at five per cent 
on the outlay. Persons not upon the estate of Blythswood are 
supplied with tiles at an advance of two shillings per thousand. 
The trenching plough has been lately introduced upon the estate 
of Southbarr. 

The land being chiefly under crop few horses are reared. Those 
employed in agriculture are generally of the Clydesdale breed. 
The number of farm horses is 97. Almost all the cows are of the 
Ayrshire dairy stock, and particular attention is paid to the rear^ 
ing of them. The number of milk cows generally kept is 250. 

The farm-buildings are commodious and well built, and, with 
few exceptions, slated. 

The parish contains 3060 acres, which may be arranged as follows : 

Arable in cultivation, . 2600 

Natural pasture, . . .100 

Sites of houses, roads, waters, . . 60 

Woodlands, . 300 

9060 

Produce. — The yearly value of all kinds of produce, is, at a rough 
guess, as follows : 



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128 



RENFREWSHIRE. 




Grain of all kinds, 


L.5449 4 


PoUtoes, turnips, &c., 


2955 


Hay, . . • . 


1299 


Pastures, . . . - 


. 867 


Dairy, .... 


2500 


Woods, 


ISO 


Peat 


400 




L. 19620 4 



V. — Parochial Economy. 

Markets. — The principal markets for the sale of grain are thosa 
of Paisley and Glasgow, the former three miles, and the latter se- 
ven miles distant at the nearest point The produce of the dairy 
is disposed of in Paisley. 

Villages. — There are only two villages, if they can be so called, 
the larger of them containing six houses, with the average number 
of two families accommodated in each house. 

Means of Communication. — The high road from Glasgow to 
Greenock intersects the length of the parish. Two good roads 
conmiunicate with Paisley. Two bridges, one called Inchinnan 
bridge, the other Barnsford bridge, supersede the fords or ferries of 
former times. Water-carriage is principally adopted in importing 
manures from the towns. Formerly a mail-coach and stage-coaches 
passed to and from Gla^ow and Greenock through Inchinnan 
daily, but steam has banished them all. The post is conveyed by a 
gig, which takes a somewhat circuitous route for the accommodation 
of Paisley, and the letters for Renfrew (where the head post-office 
formerly was) are conveyed to it by a runner. Farmers now sel- 
dom wdk or ride to market A coach, which starts for Glasgow 
from Renfrew on all the other lavrfiil days, is employed on Thurs- 
day (the market day of Paisley) in conveying them and their brethren 
of the adjoining parish to that town. 

Ecclesiastical State. — That a religious establishment pf some 
kind existed at Inchinnan, in remote times, is not to be question- 
ed, although it may be prudent not to give implicit credence to 
all the averments of the Scottish historians. According to them. 
Saint Convallus, • a disciple of St Kentigem, taught Christianity 

* It may be worthy of remark, that in former times, a stone called Saint Conal- 
lie's stone, stood near to the ancient ford of Inchinnan, on the Renfrew side of the 
river. The said ^tone, as appears from the records of the burgh of Paisley, was the 
starting point of a horse race for a silver bell, instituted by the bailies and council in 
the year 1620. According to the late Mr Motherwell (see his notes to Renfrewshire 
Chaj'acters, and Scenery, a Poem, Part I.) the above stone, now called Argvle's stone, 
as marking the spot where the Marquis of Argyle was taken, was the pediment of a 
eroas erected to the memory of Saint Convallus, near to the site of his cell, and which 
cross might at once serve to indicate the ford, and remind the traveller to invoke the 
saint's protection, or to thank him for his preservation. As to Saint Convallus him« 



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INCHINNAN. 129 

here in the seventh century. Be this as it may, there was a church 
on the site of the present one in the reign of King David I. This 
prince gave the church of Inchinnan with all its pertinents to the 
Knights Templars. Hence, when Walter the High Stewart, who 
founded the monastery of Paisley, gave to it all the churches 
in Strathgryfe, he expressly excepted the church of Inchinnan. * 
The Knights Templars, whose office, as is well known, was to de- 
fend the city and temple of Jerusalem, to entertain Christian stran- 
gers and pilgrims, and guard them safely throi^h the holy land, 
although poor at first (in token of what their seal bore, two knights 
mounted on the same horse,) came to possess 9000 houses in 
Christendom, and had property in land or houses in almost every 
parish of Scotlandf. They appear to have obtained considerable 
grants of land in Inchinnan, and are supposed to have had an esta- 
blishment at Greenend, now called House of Hill. Upon the sup- 
pression of the templars in the early part of the 14th century, their 
property was transferred to the Knights J Hospitallers, or Knights of 
St John of Jerusalem, whose principal settlement in Scotland was 
at the preceptory of Torphichen in Linlithgowshire. As the suc- 
cessors of the templars, the Knights of St John enjoyed the rec- 

self, according to tbe Scottish breviaries, he was the first Archdeacon of Glasgow, and 
his festival was celebrated on the 18th of May. The historians record that he made 
a fiunous oration at the funeral of King Aidanus, and that his monument at Inch- 
innan was for ages a place of resort to the pious. Fordun writes, " Unus vero dis- 
cipubrum ejus ( Kentigerni) praK;ipuus erat Sanctus Convallus, miraculis et virtuti- 
bus praeclarust cujus itaque ossa sepulta quiescunt apud Inchenane, quinquc milliari- 
bus a Glasgw." — Scotiehron, Tom i. p. IS4. Boethius says, " Et Convallus divi Ken- 
tigerni discipulus, cujus reliquse celebri monumento in Inchennen baud procul a 
GlasguensicivitateaChristiano populohactenus in magna habentur veneratione.** Sco- 
torum Hist. Lib. ix. We are farther told that he was an author, " Scripsit Kentigerni 
Magistri Vitam. Lib. i. ; Coiitra ritus Ethnicorum. Lib. i. ; Ad clerum Scotico- 
rum super Ecclesiae Statutis, Lib i. ; Vide Danpsteri, Hist. &c. p. 157. 

* Walterus, &c. Sciatis me dedisse, &c. Deo et Sancte Marie, et ecclesis Sancti 
Jacobi et Sancti Mlrini, et Sancti Myldburge de Fasselet, et priori ejusdcm loci, et 
monachis Deo servientibus (inter aUa) omnes ecclesias de Stragryf, &c. ecclctia de 
Inchinnan excepta. The above charter was coniirmed by Pope Alexander IIL in 
1170. Reg. Mon. de Pasclet, pp. 7 and 409. 

•f Temple property had great value and importance attached to it from the right 
of sanctuary which it enjoyed. Tenements of the Templars within burgh in Fife 
are still called houses of refuge. Not many years since, an old woman, who had got 
into some squabble with the magistrates of Kinghorn, when pursued by the town- 
officers, rushed into a Temple tenement in that town, and, putting her head over the 
window, dared them to do their worst, upon the belief that this sanctuary could not 
be violated — Vide Abstract of the Chartulary of Torphichen. Edinburgh, 1880. 

X " From the Rolls of Parliament, so far as preserved, it would seem that the Pre- 
ceptors originally sat among the territorial Barons, and not among the Ecclesiastics; 
but in tbe reign of James I V. Sir William Knows took his place* not with the feu- 
dal Barons, but among the Lords of Parliament, under the title of Dominus Sancti 
Joennis. His successors. Sir Walter Lindsay, and Sir James Sandilands, in like man- 
ner assumed the title, and sat as Lords St John." — ^Introductory notice to Abstracty 
above quoted, p. 3. 

RENFREW. I 



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130 RENFREWSHIRE 

torial * tithes, and other revenues connected with the church and 
parish of Inchinnan, and had the cure served by vicars of their ap« 
pointment. At the dissolution of the monastic orders, in conse* 
quence of the Reformation, the last preceptor of Torphichen pur- 
chasedf the united estates of the Templars and Hospitallers from the 
Crown, and, dropping his official title of Lord St John, was created 
Lord Torphichen. Thus the tithes, temple-lands, and patronage 
of the church of Inchinnan, came to be vested in the first Baron 
of Torphichen. The temple-lands of Renfrewshire were subse- 
quently acquired by Semple of Beltrees, and those of Inchinnan 
have been distributed araongsta variety of proprietors for generations. 

The patronage of the church of Inchinnan having subsequently 
at one time or other belonged respectively to the Crown and the 
Dukes of Lennox and Montrose, is now vested in Archibald Camp* 
bell, Esq. of Blythswood, whose forefathers acquired it from the 
Duke of Montrose in the year 1787. 

With regard to the incumbents of Inchinnan since the Refor- 
mation, it appears from the register of ministers, exhorters and 
readers, that William Jackson was reader (at Inchecynane) in 1567, 
and Thomas Knox was exhorter in 1569. Gabriel Maxwell, ap- 
pointed in 1602, is supposed to have been the first Protestant cler- 
gyman in full orders. Thomas Law succeeded him in 1626. James 
Wallace became incumbent in 1649. In 1664, he was suspended 
for absenting himself from synods and disobedience to the presby- 
tery, and ousted from his Uving, and confined to the parish for not 
conforming to Episcopacy.— Wodrow's Church History, Vol. iii. 
Mr Wallace was alive at the Revolution, and although his name 
does not appear in the sederunts of Presbytery, he was imdoubted- 
ly restored to his living, for it is stated in the records of dOth July 
1689, that " Mr Patrick Symsone went to Mr James Wallace about 
that collection^ (viz. in behalf of some Irish Protestants) who pro-- 
mised to intimate it on the Sabbathy and ff other it on the Monday" 
We may conclude that Mr Wallace's infirmities prevented him 
from attending the meeting of Presbytery; and as the first notice 

* Rectorial 7H£A^#.-— The following notice is from the Abstract formerly referred to. 
** The Kyrk of Inchynnan has been in use to pay but xx. lib. allenarly, but it is bet- 
ter an it were out of the hand of the Laird of Cruickstone." From the same source 
it appears that Ludovic Duke of Lennox obtained a tack of the teind sheaves of In- 
chinnan, in 1591. 

f The terms on which the purchase was effected were the payment of an annual 
feu-duty of 500 merks, beddes the sum of 10,000 crowns. The Lord of St John 
seems to have had difficulty in raising the latter amount. It was borrowed from 
Timothy Cumeoli, an Italian gentleman of the Preceptor's acquaintance at Genoa, 
and a banker of the house of Bonvizi, resident at the time in Scotland. — See Note to 
Hay's Vindication of Elizabeth Moie (Queen of Robert IL) and her children, print- 
ed in Scotia Rediviva, p. 69. 



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INCHINNAN. 131 

of an appointment to supply Inchinnan pulpit occurs May I4ih 
1690, we may infer that the living was vacant by his death about 
that time. James Finlay was Wallace's Episcopal successor in 
1665. This gentleman was blamed * by his presbytery for irre- 
gularity of attendance at its meetings, but defended himself by 
giving reasons, and, what was of more importance, by producing 
the license or dispensation of the archbishop. Having been trans- 
lated to another parish he was succeeded by William Stewart, 
who, on June 27, 1667, appeared before the presbytery of Pais- 
ley with a recommendation from the archbishop to have his trials 
furthered. Having passed these with acceptance, he obtained from 
the presbytery that met on the 15th August, a testimonial to that 
effect for the archbishop, in order to his ordination. Mr Stew- 
art's name appears for the last time in the presbytery record, 7th 
September 1687. — John Stirling was admitted 7th May 1691. — Ro- 
bert M*Auley, 9th September 1697. — Matthew Crawford, May 11, 
1710, and was afterwards Professor of Church History in the Univer- 
sity of Edinburgh. — Patrick Maxwell, May 3, 1722; he died 1749, 
and was succeeded on the 8d February 1750, by Archibald Smith. 
He died in 1760, and was succeeded in 1761 by Archibald Da- 
vidson, D.D. promoted to the Principality of the College of Glas- 
gow in 1786. — Thomas Bums was ordained his successor 16th 
Feb. 1787, and was translated to Renfrew, 5th August 1790. In 
1791, William Hardie was ordained, but died in the subsequent 
year. William Richardson, D.D. was ordained in 1793; and he re- 
signing the charge in 1822, the present incumbent became his suc- 
cessor on the 18th August of that year. 

In Bagimont's Roll, the vicarage of Inchinnan was taxed at 
L. 2, 13s. 4d. being a tenth part of its estimated value. At the 
Reformation, the vicar, Sir Bernard Peebles, reported that its re- 
venues were L. 60 yearly, including all profits and duties. In 1684 
the incumbent declared to the Presbytery, verho sacerdotis^ that 
the jUst provision of the kirk of Inchinnan was 7 chalders of 
victual, but that he had never received more than 6. The 
living is at present augmented to 16 chalders, one-half meal the 
other half bsu'ley, paid in money according to the.highest fiar prices 
struck in the county, with the sum of L. 8, 6s. 8d. as an allowance 

* Another complaint brought against some of the Episcopalian clergy in this 
presbytery vas the omission of the doxology, which was ordered to be sung every 
Sunday. It was argued in defence, that none of the people would join in such music, 
and that the minister and precentor being the only performersj and sometimes both 
of them fldike destitute of a musical ear, the effect was bad, and the discord intoler- 
able. StiU these pleadings went for nothing. The archbishop stepped not forward 
to screen the individuals who had been guilty of this species of delinquency. 



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132 RENFREWSHIRE. 

for pnxviding communion elements, and a glebe of 7^ acres* 
Part of the incumbent's emoluments he, like his predecessors, 
derives as superior of a piece of land called Ladyacre, which 
was an ancient mortification for the support of an altar dedicated 
to the virgin, and which in popish times adorned the church of Inch* 
innan. In all charters granted by the ministers of Inchinnan in 
virtue of the superiority referred to, they have uniformly styled 
themselves undoubted chaplains of the altarage and altar com-* 
monly called our Lady's Altar of old, founded and situated in the 
kirk and parish of Inchinnan. The teind and feu-duty annually 
arising from this source amount to L. 1 , 5s« 5d. The attachment 
of a superiority to a living occurs nowhere else in Scotland in simi- 
lar circumstances, and the popish title connected with it is a still 
more extraordinary anomaly. 

The church and manse of Inchinnan have been erected since the 
admission of the present incumbent, and have ample accommoda« 
tion. * They are placed at the eastern extremity of the parish, 
which is somewhat inconvenient, and it would be an improvement 
if a portion at the extreme west were annexed to Erskine, and what 
is called Abbot's Inch, in the parish of Renfrew, annexed to Inch- 
innan. Preaching from a tent on sacramental occasions has been 
given up for about twenty years.f There are four elders belong* 
ing to the kirk-session. Nearly the whole of the population be- 
longs to the Established Church, Only two agricultural families 
are attached to dissent. One of these recently came from anothec 
parish. The other affords the only instance in the. course of two 
generations of an aboriginal family leaving the Establishment, while 
the roll of communicants, amounting to nearly 200, contains not a 
few names originally connected with the dissenting interest The 
minister is accustomed to visit the dissenters, and also the few fe- 
milies of Irish Roman Catholics who are resident, just as he does 
the members of the Established Church, and has been uniformly 
received in the kindest manner. A Roman Catholic recently re- 

• A charter granted by the Rev. Robert M*Auley in 1704 commences thus: 
" Omnibus banc chartam visuris vel audituris Magister Robertus M'CauIey apud 
ecclesiam de Inchinan ac undubitatus capellanus alteragii et altaris vulgo vocat our 
Lady*t Altar fundat. et olim situat. infra ecclesiam parochialem de Inchinan, &c. no* 
veritis me dedisse, conccssisse," &c. 

The last charter, granted in the year 1821, begins thus : " To all and sundry to 
whose knowledge these presents shall come, I, the Rev, William Richard«on, Doctor 
in Divinity, iMinister of the Gospel, and of the kirk and parish of Inchinnan, and un- 
doubted Chaplain of the altarage and altar, commonly called our Lady^s Altar, and 
as such, undoubted superior of the lands after- mentioned," &c. 

f The older inhabitants were greatly attached to the tent, and their attachment had 
been fostered by a venerable incumbent, who was wont to declare, in his own pecu- 
iiar phraseology, that the tent afforded the best specimen of " visible religion*' any- 
where to be fvund. 



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INCHINNAN* 133 

nounced Popery ; but having removed to the parish of Renfrew, is 
now under the pastoral care of the Rev. Duncan M^Farlan, who 
has distinguished himself as a defender of the Protestant faith. 

Education. — In addition to the parochial school there is a school 
of industry. The parochial school-house consists of a large well- 
aired hall, together with five apartments for the accommodation of 
the teacher ; and attached to it are a cow-house and suitable of- 
fices, besides a garden, measuring nearly half an acre, and play- 
ground for the children, — the whole arrangements reflecting much 
credit on the liberality of the heritors. In addition to the ordinary 
branches, Latin, practical mathematics, and architectural drawing, 
&c are taught. The fees vary from 3s. to 6s. per quarter. All 
classes are anxious to secure for their children the benefits of a good 
.education. There is no child above ten years of age unable to 
jead; and the greater number who have reached twelve years have 
a goM plain handwriting. The children of the poor are educated 
at the expense of the kirk-sessioa The teacher has the maximum 
salary, which, with the fees and a few casualties, give him an in- 
come of L. 65. During the winter months the attendance is good, 
averaging 60; but from seed-time to harvest there are frequently 
not above 30 scholars, and these of the younger children. Such 
a system of alternate toil and tuition is highly prejudicial to the in-- 
terests of education, and greatly more expensive than if the pupils 
were allowed to complete the course with fewer and shorter inter- 
ruptions. The female who superintends the school of industry is 
furnished by the kindness of the heritors with a school-room, house, 
and garden. Her income, which is very scanty, is derived from 
fees alone. There are two Sunday schools taught gratis. 

Library. — There is an excellent parish library, consisting of nu- 
merous standard works on theology, general history, voyages and 
travels, &c. ; and all the parishioners have access for merely a no- 
minal sum, — 6d. per quarter. 

Poor and Poors* Funds. — The number of persons on the poors*' 
list is at present four ; and the parish is also burdened with the 
maintenance of two illegitimate children. The ordinary wants of the 
poor are supplied from the collections at the church door, amount- 
ing, upon an average, to L. 30 sterling per annum. Any deficiency 
is made up by a voluntary contribution, which is required almost 
every year for miscellaneous parish purposes. The old Scottish 
spirit of independence, inducing a reluctance to ask relief from the 
parish, exists here, it is believed, in greater strength than in most 
places similarly situated, it being now a general complaint that it 
has nearly expired. Two instances have occurred, in the writer's 

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134 RENFREWSHIRE. 

experience, of individuals voluntarily resigning their little monthly 
allowance, in consequence of their circumstances having become 
somewhat improved. Not long since, there was a petition laid be- 
fore the session from a very aged and infirm widow ; but when the 
relatives were informed of it, they begged it to be withdrawn, and 
agreed to contribute a much larger allowance than the parish would 
have granted. When a person's circumstances become strait- 
ened, and there is no relative able or willing to lend assistance, the 
practice very usually is, to dispose of the clock, watch, writing- 
desk, or other symbol of better days, upon the principle of a lot- 
tery. This custom having the nature of gambling in it, has never been 
encouraged by the gentlemen of the parish or kirk-session ; but it 
is said to be attended with few abuses, and it cannot be denied that 
it has been the means of keeping persons oflf the poors' list for ye^ 
Alehouses, — There are two of these, of which at least one might, 
with advantage, be abolished. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

Since the former Statistical Account was published, the aspect of 
this parish has assumed various and important alterations. The 
roads have undergone great improvement While almost all the old 
farm-buildings, &c. have vanished, and been succeeded by new ones 
adapted to a more advanced state of society. The comforts of the 
peasantry, with respect to the articles of food and clothing, have ex- 
perienced a similarly beneficial change. The author of the former 
Statistical Account lamented the existence of five alehouses, into 
some of which the card-table was introduced. Of these evils 
amongst a greatly increased population, the first has been mitigated, 
and the last has entirely disappeared. 

With the exception of a small portion of moorland not yet re- 
claimed, the parish is enclosed. In many instances, however, the 
fences are susceptible of improvement, and the slovenly manner in 
which some of them are kept but ill accords with the high cultiva- 
tion of the land. 

The number of illegitimate births has of late years increased, and 
the pledge usually preceding promiscuous intercourse is now in 
fewer instances redeemed on the part of the male delinquent, by 
marriage. In thcstate of social manners just referred to, no slight 
meliorations might be effected by an increased circumspection of 
parents and heads of families, who, by adopting a more prudent sys- 
tem in the adjustment of field labour, and by enforcing a stricter 
domestic discipline, might, without difficulty, accomplish this roost 
desirable reform. 

March 1836. 

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TOWN AND PARISHES OF PAISLEY* 

PRESBYTERY OF PAISLEY, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

Ministers. Parishes. 

THE REV. ROBERT MACNAIR, A. M., \ . 

THE REV. PATRICK BREWSTER, J '*^^*^' 

THE REV. ROBERT BURNS, D. D., . . St. George's. 

THE REV. JOHN MACN AUGHT AN, A. M., High. 

THE REV. ROBERT STEVENSON, Middle. 

THE REV. ALEXANDER TELFER, A. M., Johnston. 

THE REV. JOHN CAMPBELL, Gaelicf 

THE REV. JAMES GRAHAM, . . North. 

THE REV. JOHN MTARLANE, Martyrs. 
THE REV. ANDREW BORLAND PARKER, A. M., Levem, 

THE REV. ALEXANDER SALMON, South. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

The portion of Renfrewshire to which our attention is now to 
be directed, was, previous to the year 1736, all included in one 
parish, known by the name of the parish of Paisley. The town 
of Paisley is the only part of it, which, by a deed of the Court of 
Teinds, has been erected into distinct parishes. Its magistrates, 
however, are still regarded as heritors in the original parish, and, 
as such, pay a proportion of the stipend, and retain a certain num- 
ber of sittings in the church. Since the act of the General As- 
sembly, by which Chapels of Ease were raised to the status of pa- 
rish churches, Johnstone, in the western district, has been so ele- 
vated, and the church at Levern, in the south-eastern district, is 
about to have a parish assigned to it. Meantime, it will be con- 
venient to consider the whole as forming one parish, especially 
as the town of Paisley occupies but a small extent of surface, 
and is completely surrounded, by what is now, by way of distinc- 
tion, called the Abbey parish. 

Etymology. — We are indebted for the following ingenious ob- 
servations on the etymology of the word Paisley, as well as on 
that of various places situated in the parish, to William Kerr, Esq. 
surgeon. Paisley. 



• Drawn up by the Rev. Dr Burns and the Rev. RoI)ert Macnair. 
f A separate parish is not assigned to tiie minister of the Gaelic Church. 
RENFREW. K 



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136 RENFREWSHIRE. 

" At Paisley, the Romans had a station or town, which antiqua-- 
rians regard as the Vanduaria of Ptolemy. The most probable 
conjecture concerning the etymology of this name, is given by 
Chalmers, who belieyes it to be the Latinized form of the British 
words toen dur, or white watery applied by sthe natives to the river 
White Cart, which flowed past the eastern wall of the camp. The 
Romans entered Scotland in the year 80, and left it in 446, 
Vanduaria must, therefore, have flourished at some period between 
these years. After the retreat of the Roman forces, the name was 
lost, and no place connected with its site is found in history, till 
the middle of the twelfth century, when lands on the bank of 
the river opposite to the camp are mentioned under the names of 
Passeleth, Passelay, and Passelet. The earliest mode of spelling 
is Passeleth, and is found in a charter granted by David L* In 
the next century. Paisley occurs in one paper as Passeleht The 
terminations in let and hit/ occur most frequently, and seem to have 
been used indifferently, till the middle of the sixteenth century, 
when the orthography commonly employed became Paslay. Chal- 
mers mentions two etymologies of the name, the first PasgeUlaithy 
which, in the ancient British, signifies moist pasture ground ; the 
second Baslech in the British, and Bas^leac in the Gaelic, which 
signify ^ the flat stone shoal^ supposed to have been applied to a 
ledge of rock which runs across the channel of the river White 
Cart, -f That these etymologies rest on a foundation little better 
than resemblance in sound, is evident, from the meaning of the 
one being so widely different firom that of the other. The difficulty 
of ascertaining the origin of the name of Paisley is somewhat dimi- 
nished, by the existence, in ancient times, of two places of the same 
name in England, one in Sussex, the other in Gloucestershire; and 
more than one place, in which Paisley formed the first part of the 
name. In the ancient documents published by the Record Com- 
mission, X the spelling of these places scarcely differs from the most 
ancient forms of the ScotCish Paisley. The first syllable is either 
* Passe,' * Pese,' or * Pis ;' and the last syllable ' Leghe' or 
' Ley.' In the same documents, Stainley, Thomley, and the 
other names terminating in Ley, are likewise found terminating in 
Leghe, indicating that these terminations were understood by the 

* Vol. published by the Maitland Club, in IHdl, p. 229. 

f Chalmers' Caledonia, Vol. iii. p. 819. The meaning of Bas, as given by Arxc- 
strong and M'Alpine in their Gaelic Dictionaries, is different itovn that assigned 
by Chalmers. By them Bas is the palm of the hand, and B&s <* death.** 

\ Inquisitiones post mortem, inquisitiones nonarum, rotuli hundredorum, calen- 
darium rotulorum chartarum. 



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PAISLEY. 137 

Saxon inhabitant. Leyh and Ley, which were pronounced as 
they are spelled, are in fact the Anglo-Saxon words for lea or faK 
low ground,* and there can scarcely be a doubt, that the last syl- 
lable Leht, Leth, Let, and Ley of the Scottish Paisley, are the 
same words modified by a slight difference of dialect, 

" The words in the same language which resemble the first syl- 
lable are pais peace, and pisa peas. The last of these, in the pro- 
gress of language towards old Scotch, became Pese, which agrees 
with the modern pronunciation of Paisley. Paislet or Paisley, 
would be the lea of Peace, and Peselet, or Pesley the Peas-lea. 
The only argument against the first of these being the true 
etymology, is, that history is silent respecting the conclusion of a 
peace at this place. With regard to the second supposition, peas 
undoubtedly gave names to places at very early periods, such names 
being found iu the ancient records already referred to, as early as 
the reign of Henry IIL In these records, the names of different 
kinds of crops are found in combination with leghe or /ay, such 
as com, oats, wheat, bear, or barley, and beans, and afford a cu- 
rious illustration of the vegetables cultivated in early times, f On 
the supposition of Paisley receiving its name from peas, it would 
originally signify lea ground which had carried peas. J 

" There are two places in the Abbey parish, which, probably like 
Paisley, terminated indifferently in let or ley^ but which have re- 
tained the termination let, viz. the village of Hurlet, and the farm 
of Caplet hill. In the ancient records already quoted, there is 
mentioned a place in Berkshire, sometimes spelled Hurlegh, and 
at other times Hurle. I'he first syllable Hur seems to be* th^ 
word Hare, which in old names, changes to Har, Hor, and Hur. 
Hurlet is consequently Harelea, the Lea frequented by hares. § 
Illustrative of the termination lei, may be mentioned Horselet-hill, 
in the parish of Govan, the etymology of which, agreeably to the 
foregoing conclusions, is quite easy ; but, on the supposition of 
Let being British or Gaelic, is involved in difficulties. 

^' Besides Paisley, the places in the Abbey parish, termhrating in 

* Legh and Ley are translated in Lye's Anglo Saxon Dictionary Terra incuUa, 
Novale, Campus, Fasarum. 

+ See Tytler's History of Scotland, Vol. ii. p. 216. 

:{: In Shakspeare, there is an instance of lea applied to ground bearing crops. 

" Ceres moat bounteous lady, thy rich leas 
Of wheat, rye, barley, fltcbes, oats, and peas.*-' 

§ In two retours of the seventeenth century, this place is spelled Holzctand IIul- 
rett; the first of which may be translate^l the Wocd-ka. 'I he name at present is 
universally pronounced Hurlet 



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138 RENFREWSHIRE. 

fey, are Eldersley, Stainley, Thornley, CoUinsley, Relees, ue. Rye- 
lees, and a farm united to it, called Halylee." 

Mr Kerr's observations on the etymology, &c. of some other 
names of places in the parish will be found in the subjoined note.* 

* " Names derived from tbe British, the Gaelic, and the Anglo Saxon, are found 
within the parish. Those deiived from the most ancient of these, the British, are, 
with one exception, names of streams and hills. The rivers White and Black Cart 
have probably received their name from Cardd, which signifies narrow, a name given, 
perhaps, in contrasting these rivers with Clyde or Gryfe. Lavem, according to 
Chalmers, is from Laver, noisy, and an, stream. Arkleston hill, probably from 
Arcwl, proFpect, and Dun, hill. This hill, though rising only about 100 fbet above 
the level of the adjoining low ground, presents a most delightful and extensive pros- 
pect, which may vie with the most celebrated in Scotlaad. Every one who visits 
this district, and wishes to behold its beauty and richness, ought to make an excur- 
sion to the summit of Arcwl Dun. Rather more than a mile to the east of this hill, 
i^ a similar elevation, called Keir hill, from an ancient British fort on its top, the ves- 
tiges of which still exist, and show the wall to have enclosed a circle of about seventy 
yards in diameter. Cardonald, an old mansion, which stands on level ground, on the 
bank of the river White Cart, exhibits no indications of remote antiquity, except the 
name. Caer and Keir signify in British, castle or fort. 

'* The Gaelic language is found, like the British, in the names of streams, and hills, 
and likewise of several farms. AU-palrick is Patrick's burn. Espedair burn is ««ua 
small stream descending rapidly from hills, and Feadar, Peter. The highest eastern 
point of the range of hills, celebrated by the muse of Tannahill as the * Braes o* 
Gleniffer,* is called the DucbaUlaw, a name which seems to be a compound of the 
Gaelic wjrd Dku^ black or dark, and Choilid growing wood, and the Anglo-Saxon 
Hleaw, a grassy bill. The descent eastward, from this law, forms tbe extremity 
of the range of hills, and being much higher than the surrounding country, 
forms a kind of promontory, which receives the name of Ferneze, Ferineeze 
or Fernyneeze. In ancient documents, it occurs Fer^nes, and Latinized Fcrineisum. 
Nese in Anglo-Saxon signifies nose. Firrin is used by Gawiu Douglas as the adjec- 
tive of Fir ; and in the English parliamentary writs in the reign of Edward II., a 
person of the name Fereodraught is likewise called Fernedraught, proving that Fe- 
ren is identical with Fcrn^. Ferneeze and its modifications, therefore, mean tbe 
Firno!«e, and imply that this declivity was in ancient times, as it is at present, cover- 
ed with fir, which would probably be the dark wood, that, at an early period, gave 
name to Duchal-law. Of Gleniffer, no satia&ctory etymology can be found in tbe 
British or Gaelic. It is probably a compound of the Anglo-Saxon yfer upper,* an 
appellation to which it is well entitled, as from the low grounds it appears a clef^ on 
the top of the hills, f 

" Namc-s of dwellings derivc.1 from the Gaelic are few in number. The great pro- 
portion of names of mansions and forms are derived from the Anglo-Saxon. It is 
probable, that in the eleventh century, or when the Gaelic ceased to be the lan- 
guage of this part of the country, the names of many places would be translated into 
the new language, and others would have names imposed, without any regard to 
their former meaning, so that from the number of places still bearing Gaelic names, 
we cannot form any idea of the number of farms in the parish, while it was a Gaelic 
district. Much light may be thrown upon the language s which existed in this coun- 
try, by a minute examination of the etymology of its different districts, and in the 
absence of any written documents in the Gothic language called tlie Scoto- Saxon, 
the names of places still exhibit some of the points of resemblance and of difference 
from the Anglo-Stixon. 

** Sneddon, now forming part of the town, is probably the Anglo-Saxon Sniden^n, 
portion cut off, from the verb aneddan. In more modern times, Clippens, in this 
neighbourhood, received its name in the same way.$ 

• See Jamieson's supplement to his Scottish Dictionary, word Ever, 

-f- Another derivation has been furnished to us, by a good Gaelic scholar, from tbe 
Gaelic GUun Glen, and t7«Mer, (thebh in Gaelic sounding v) yew tree, which makes 
it the Glen of yews. 

X Sneddon has also been considered as a corruption of Snaudon, or Snowdon, and 
as furnishing a title to the Prince of Wales, as beuig Prince of Scotland. «* The 



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PAISLEY. 139 

Extent and Boundaries. — The parish of Paisley is situated in 
the upper ward of the county, and in the finest part of it. It may 
be regarded, in point of extent, the third in Renfrewshire, and in 
point of value, by far the first Its distance from the Clyde is lit- 
tle more than 2 miles. Its extreme length from north-east to 
south-west, is nearly 9 miles. In breadth it varies from half a 
mile to about 5^ miles, being deeply indented on all sides by 
comers of adjoining parishes. In consequence of this, notwith- 
standing its great length, and in some parts breadth, it measures 
little more than about 16000 acres. It is bounded on the north 
and north-east by the parishes of Renfrew and Govan ; on the 
east and south-east by those of Eastwood and Neilston ; on the south 
and south-west, by those of Neilston and Lochwinnoch ; and on 
the west by the parish of Kilbarchan. 

Topographical Appearances. — Near the centre of the parish in 
N. Lat bb^ 48' and W. Long. 4° 26' on a bold terrace-like ridge, 
rises the town of Paisley. Much of it is built on that ridge,^and 
on one of a similar description, which runs parallel on the south. 
The distance of the cross of Paisley from that of Glasgow is about 
7i miles ; and from the Clyde, which flows north of it, about ^ 
The suri^e occupied by what is properly called the old town, or 
the burgh of Paisley, is about a mile square; but in speaking of Pais- 
ley, we must include its populous suburbs in the Abbey parish, espe- 
cially those now within the parliamentary burgh, which is spread over 
a surface of about 3 miles by 2^, and contains about 6 square 
miles, including a small portion of the parish of Renfrew. The 
general sur&ce of the Abbey parish is of a beautifully diversified . 
character. Around the town of Paisley, except to the northward, 
many gentle eminences, some in cultivation, and others in wood, 
** impart their beauty to the scene." Northward of the town, the 
surface is flat, principally indeed consisting of reclaimed moss. But 
the southern border of the parish, rises into what are called the 

^ There are two names derived from Latin, which baye probably been imposed by 
the monks. SaceUhill, receives its name from a Sacellum or chapel, which stood at 
its base, and from which a small cluster of houses is still called the chapel. Blada, a 
piece of ground adjoining the Sacel-mill seems to be Bladunif grain, a word frequent- 
ly found in the barbarous Latin of the middle ages.'* 

titles are themselves Scottish," says the writer of the article Paisley in the Edinburgh 
Encyclopaedia, speaking of the Prince of Wales as Baron of Snowdon, Snaudon, aiul 
Renfrew. " Now, as the Stewart family had long their chief seat in Renfrewshire, 
and the lands of Snaudoun, near Paisley, formed, in all probability, apart of the pa- 
trimonial inheriunce of that illustrious house, it does not seem at all improbable, that 
the baronial title of Snowdon, actually coupled with that of Renfrew, was derived from 
the very lands io question.*'— Encyc. Vol. zvi. p, 270. 



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140 



RENFREWSHIRE. 



Paisley or Stanely Braes, known also, at least in one part, as the 
Braes of Gleiiiffer. I'he highest point of these braes, as lately as- 
certained by measurement, reaches an elevation of 760 feet above 
the surface of the river Cart, at high water mark at Paisley. 
Though here and there interspersed with moss and heath, they in 
general afford good sheep pasture, and where they decline into 
lower ground, a considerable part of the land is in cultivation. 

As the surface of this extensive parish is of varied character, so 
also is there variety in the nature and qualities of its soil. Speak- 
ing of the soil generally, it is thin, resting on a bottom of gravel 
or till, and very retentive of moisture. At the same time, no 
inconsiderable portion of it is rich, fertile, and productive. This is 
especially the case with those parts which lie along the banks of 
the rivers; and it is reasonable to think, that as much of the soil of 
this extensive parish as is capable of cultivation, will very soon be 
brought under it ; the large town, and the populous villages in the 
parish and its neighbourhood, as well as its vicinity to Glasgow, 
affording at once means of improvement, and a ready market for 
produce. 

Meteorology. — The temperature is upon the whole mild. The 
air is rather moist, probably occasioned by the prevalence of west 
and south-west winds from the Atlantic. The following meteoro-* 
logical tables are abridged from observations by Dr Rodman, phy- 
sician in Paisley, who has been kind enough to favour us with 
more extended tables for the whole of the year 1829, and for nine 
months of 1832, the year in which cholera made its appearance. 



Mild, 

Frosty, 

Snowy, 

Rainy, 

Clear, 



Mild, 

Frosty, 

Snowy, 

Rainy, 

Clear, 



Mild, 
Frosty, 
Snowy, 
Rainy, 



Weather. 

14 days 
11 

3 

2 

I 
—31 

6 days 

7 

1 
12 

3 
—28 

17 
6 
2 
6 



E. 

S. K 



1829. 

jANUAaV. 

TViful 

12 days 
Id 

. 31 



Therm. Bar. — Inches. 



S. E. & £. 
£. & S. E. 
S. E. 



February. 
17 days 



2 
3 
6 



31 



E. 

S. E. 

N. E. 

W. 

E. & S. S. 



March. 
14 days 
10 
4 
2 
£. 1 
—31 



Varied from 
57^ to 52° 



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Varied from 
30 to 2Sfb 



Google 









PAISLEY. 




141 








April. 








Weaiher^ 




Wind, 


Therm. 


Bar Inchet. 


Mild, 


lOdavs 


N. E. 


3 days 


Varied firoro 


Varied fVom 


Rainy, 


17 


N. W. 


5 


i?** to 52° 


30 to 2H^ff 


Clear, 


3 


E. . 


. 7 










S. E. 


5 








30 


W. . 

s. w. 

N. 


2 
—30 

May. 






Mild, 


. 6 days 


w. 


15days 


Varied IVoni 


Varied from 


Rainy, ' 


8 


N. W. 


2 


54° to 69° 


29.3 to 33.2 


Clear, 


17 


s. w. 


2 








__ 


s. . 


1 








31 


S. E. 
E. . 
N. E. 


2 
5 
4 

31 
June. 






MUd, 


3 days 


W. 


15 days 


Varied fVom 


Varied from 


Rainy, 


. 16 


s. w. 


6 


61° to 72° 


29.7 to 29.9 


Clear, 


8 


N. E. 


4 






Cloudy, 


. 3 


E. byS. . 1 








— 


E. . 


3 








30 


S. E. 


1 







30 

July. 

Mild, 6 days N. E. 7 Varied from Varied from 

Rainy, .17 S. W. . 8 63° to 68° 29. to 29.7 

Clear, 5 W. . 5 

Cloudy, .3 N. W. . 6 

— S. . . 3 

31 W. by S. ' . 1 

E. . . 1 

31 
August. 

Varied fVom Varied from 
61° to 68° 29.1 10 29.74 



Mild, 


3 days 


Vf. 


4 days 


Rainy, 


15 


s. w. . 


2 


Clear, 


9 


N. W. . 


11 


Cloudy, 


4 


N. . . 


3 




— 


N.N.W. • 


1 




31 


N. E. . 


4 






E. . . 


2 






S. W. . 


1 






W. &E. . 


1 






E. toW. . 


1 






W. N. W. 


1 



31 



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142 



RENFREWSHIRE, 









Se 


PTEMBER. 








Weather. 


Wind. 


Therm. 


Bar — Inches, 


Mild, 


, 


4 days 


N. W. . 


7 days 


Varied from 


Varied from 


Rainy, 


, 


16 


W. . 


. & 


58'' to 67^ 


29.01 


Clear, 


, 


10 


S. W. . 


10 




to 






— 


S. E. 


1 




29.074 






30 


E. . . 

N.E. . 
E. to W. 

S. . 

N. . 


1 
3 
. 1 
1 
1 
—30 












October. 




, 


Mild, 


. 


6 days 


W. 


7 days 


Varied from 


Varied from 


Rainy, 


. 


16 


N. W. 


7 


56° to 61° 


29.02i 


Clear, 


• 


6 


s. w. . 


7 




to 


Cloudy, 




3 
31 


N. . . 

N.E. 

S.E. 

E. . . 

S. . 

N< 


3 

3 
1 
2 
1 
—31 

aVEMBER. 




29.08 


Mild, 


, 


5 days 


N.W. 


4 days 


Varied from 


Varied from 


Rainy, 


, 


20 


W. . 


6 


48° to 58° 


29.03i 


Clear frost. 


5 


S.W. 


5 




to 






— 


S. E. 


3 




29.09 






30 


N.E. 
N. . 
E. 

Di 


8 

2 

2 

—30 

SCEMBER. 






Mild, 


, 


5 


S. E. 


3 


Varied from 


Varied from 


Rainy, 


, 


12 


E. . 


11 


45° to 58° 


29.04 


Clear&fro8ty,10 


S. . 


2 




to 


Cloudy, 




4 
31 


S.W. 

w. . 

N.W. 
N.E. 


4 
3 
1 
7 
—31 




29.094 



The notices of the weather in the foregoing tables were mark- 
ed down only once a day, at nine in the evening. 

Register for nine months of 1832. 
February 1832. 



Mild, 


6 days 


E. to N. . 1 day 


Varied from 


Varied from 


Rainy, . 


7 


E. N. E. . 1 


48° to 55° 


29 to 30 


Frosty, 


4 


W. N. W. 3 
W. . 2 








17 


S. E. to E. 1 
E 3 
E. to S. W. I 
S. W. . 2 
N. W. to E. 1 
E. to E. N. E. 1 
S. W. to W. 1 
—17 








The other days not included. 












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^ooqIc 







PAISLEY. 




143 






March. 






Weather. 


Wind. 


Therm. 


Bar..-~IncheM. 


Mild, 


8 days 


S. W. . 6 days 


Varied from 


Varied from 


Rainy, . 


14 


S. . . 8 


48° to 58° 


29 to SO 


Frosty, . 


3 


W. to S. W. 4 






Blowy, . 


6 


W. 7 

W. to S. . « 








31 


£. to S. E. I 
,W. toN.W. 3 
N. W. . 5 
N. . . 1 

—31 
April. 


• 




Mild, 


10 days 


S. W. . 7 days 


Varied from 


Varied from 


Rainy, . 


14 


N. E. 11 


53° to 60^ 


29 to 30.2 


Blowy, . 


5 


W. 4 






Thunder, 


1 


N. W. , 1 








— - 


N. E. to E. 2 


* 






30 


E. . . 1 

8. E. to E. 3 

W. to 8. E. 1 

—30 

May. 






Mild, . 


13 days 


E. . . 2 days 


Varied from 


Varied from 


Rainy, . 


12 


N. E. . 13 


53° to 64° 


29.7 to 30.1 


Clear, 


6 
31 


S. W. to W. 7 
N. W. . 4 
8. E. 1 
& W. . 3 
W. 1 

—31 
June. 






Mild, . 


todays 


N. E. . 7 days 


Varied from 


Varied from 


Rainy, . 


12 


8. W. . 5 


62° to 68° 


29.5 to 30.4 


Clear, . 


8 
30 


N. W. . 2 
N. , . 1 
The other days very 
changeable. 

July. 






Mild, . 


13days 


N. E. . 3 days 


Varied from 


Varied from 


Rainy, . 


8 


8. to 8. 1 


63° to 71° 


29.7 to 30.4 


Clear, • 


10 
31 


8. W. . 4 

W. . • 1 
N. W. . 3 
E. . . 1 

The other days very 
changeable. 

August. 






Mild, . 


7 days 


N. E. . 5 


Varied from 


Varied from 


Rainy, . 


18 


8. W. . 8 


63° to 72° 


29.5 to 30.2 


Clear, 


6 
31 


The other days very 
changeable. 

8EPTEMBEa. 






Mild, . 


11 days 


N.E. edays 


Varied firom 


Varied ftt)m 


Rjuny, . 


10 


8. W. . 9 


59° to 66° 


29.6 to 30^ 


Clear, . 


9 


N. W. . 1 








—30 


The other days very changeable. 





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144 



RENFREWSHIRE. 



October. 
Weatiier, Wind. Therm. Bar. -^ Indie*. 

Mild, 7 (lavs S. W. . 9 days Varied fVom Varied fVom 

Rainy, . 18 ' W. 8 5° to 65° 29. to 80.5 

Clear, .5 N. E. . 3 

— The other days very 

30 changeable. 

The montlis of January, November, and December of 1832 are 

not included in Dr Rodman's tables. But from a register kept at 

the Gkis-works, we find that the barometer varied in January from 

29°.4 to 30*^.4; in November from 29° to 30°.5 ; andin December 

from 29*^ to 30^.4. 

Barometer 1836. 

January, varied from 29. to 30.4 inch July, varied from 29.3 to 30.1 inch 

February, . 28.7 to 30.3 August,. 29.4 to 30.1 

March, 28.7 to 30. September, . 29.1 to 30.2 

April, . . . 29. to 30.4 October^ . 28.5 to 29.9 

May, . 29.8 to 30.4 November, . 28.7 to 30. 

June, . . . 29.2 to 30.1 December, . 28«4 to 30,2 

No rain-gauge was kept in the neighbourhood of Paisley, till 2d 
December 1834, when one was placed at Nethercraigs, in this pa- 
rish, one mile and a-half south of the town pf Paisley, about 160 
feet above the level of the sea. Other two rain-gauges have, in 
the course of last year, been set, the one at Orr Square, Paisley, 
62 feet s^bove the level of the sea, and the other at Back Thomly 
Muir, one mile south of Nethercraigs, 693 feet above the level of 
the sea. The results of the first for two years and one month ; of 
the second for three months ; and of the third for four months of 
last year, are included in the following table : 

Incites. iOUis. 
At Nethercraigs, 

1834 Dec. 2 3 



1835, 

Jan. Feb. and Mar. 

Apr. May, and June 

July, 


17 

,5 

4 


9 
9 
6 


August, 

September, 

October, 

NovemLer, 

December, 


2 
7 
3 
7 
3 


8 
8 
6 
2 
2 



53 





Iwihe*. 


\m^ 


. 


January, 


9 


8 




February, 


. 3 







March, 


. 7 


i 




April, 


3 


2 




May, . 





4 




June, 


4 


5 


At Orr At Back 


July, . 


9 


4 


Square. Thomly Muir 


August, 


. 5 


3 


Inch. \Qtht. Inch. IWts 


September, 


7 


3 


8 8 


October, 


. 8 


2 


3 1 3 6 


November, 


. 7 


1 


5 4 7 4 


December, 


. 8 





6 5 10 2 



68 3 



Diseases. — As might be expected, the moist atmosphere occasions 
rheumatisms, quinsies, pulmonary and other inflammatory disorders. 
Contagious diseases frequently visit this place. A pestilence vi* 



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PAISLEy. 145 

sited it in 1645, as appears from the records of presbytery and town* 
council. A pleurisy is particularly mentioned as having prevailed 
to a considerable extent in the year 1771. Influenza raged exten- 
sively in the spring of 1803, and in the end of the years 1830 and 
1831. At present (January 1837) influenza is raging to a great 
extent here, as in many other parts of Scotland. Dysentery 
raged violently in 1765. Since that time, it seems not to have 
prevailed to any great extent till the year 1828^ when it spread 
to an alarming degree, and carried off many valuable lives. Ty- 
phus fever has for some years past greatly prevailed, and in 
many instances has proved fatal. In spring of 1834, small-pox 
made its appearance in the town, and continued more or less 
during that year. Sixty-one deaths are recorded as having taken 
place in consequence of this disease, forty-three in the town, 
and eighteen in the Abbey parish. In almost all of these in- 
stances, the individuals carried off had not been previously vac- 
cinated ; and it is a well established fact, that till that year, since 
vaccination was practised, few cases of variolous infection had ap- 
peared. The confinement, and sedentary life of the operative 
manufacturer, may perhaps account, in part, for those consumptive 
ailments, which are of frequent occurrence. 

CAofera.— JPaisley was visited by cholera asphyxia in • 1832. 
Previous to its arrival, a board of health was formed, and the most 
prompt measures were used for cleaning the streets and alleys of 
the town, white-washing and fumigating infected or suspected 
houses, liberally distributing flannel clothing to the poorer classes, 
and supplying them with nourishing food. Two places were fitted 
up as hospitals, and the medical faculty were in constant attend- 
ance. The number of cases in all was 769 ; and of the individu- 
als seized, 446 died. It attacked chiefly the intemperate and dis- 
sipated in the humbler ranks, though others of better condition 
and habits, but of feeble constitution, fell victims to its violence. 
It appeared first at Paisley, on 18th February 1832, and entirely 
left it in December following. The greatest number of cases on one 
day was nine. Cholera again made its appearance in 1834, and 
carried off 140. But as no cases were reported that year, it is 
impossible to give any correct account of the number of individu- 
als seized. 

Hydroffraphy. — The White Cart is the principal river in the 
parish. It rises in the hilly grounds between Eaglesham and 
Kilbride, and, after having formed for a few miles the boundary 



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146 RENFREWSHIRE. 

of this parish, enters it on the eastern side, and flows in a gently 
winding course to the town of Paisley, whence, after forming a 
beautiful and picturesque waterfall a little above the Seedhill 
bridge, and bending round to the northward, it pursues its course 
towards the Clyde. It is joined at Inchinnan bridge by the Black 
Cart, which had previously received the waters of the Gryfe, near 
Barnsford bridge ; and their united streams fall into the Clyde, 
about three miles below the town. In the White Cart, perch, 
trout, flounders, and braises, or gilt-heads, are found, but not in 
great quantities, owing, it is thought, to the public works on its 
banks. We are told, by some old historians, of fine large pearls 
having been found in this river, but these have long since com- 
pletely disappeared. * Below the town, this river exhibits little 
beauty, but above it, much ; its banks being frequently elevated, 
and clothed with a rich drapery of wood. 

In consequence of a short canal having been cut to avoid the 
shallows at Inchinnan bridge, and other improvements on the ri- 
ver, made about fifty years ago, the Cart is navigable up to the 
town of Paisley, for vessels of from sixty to eighty tons burden. 
These improvements, which are particularly mentioned in the 
former Statistical Account, were completed at an expense of L. 4000. 
In the year afler they were finished, the tonnage wasjet at L. 151. 
Since that period, the sum for which it has been let has increas- 
ed. For the five years mentioned below, it has been as follows : — 
For 1831, L.222; for 1832, L.321; for 1833, L.300; for 1834, 
L. 291 ; for 1835, L. 260. 

Additional improvements on the river, for which an Act of Par- 
liament has been obtained, are now in progress. These, when fi- 
nished, will greatly increase the revenue arising from it, as well as 
improve the commercial interests of the place. For many years, 
small track-boats have been employed on the river, for the con- 
veyance of passengers to and from the steam-boats on the Clyde ; 

• In Principal Dunlop's" Description of Renfrewshire," written upwards of 140 
years ago, and lately printed by the Maitland Club, we have the foUowing account 
of these pearls. " The most noted peculiar rarity this shire affords is that of pearls, 
found in the water of White Cart, about Paisley, and above it for three miles. 
Though it be not that considerable, that the proprietor of the water and land adjacent 
claims an interest in them, but every person hath liberty to search for them, yet 
pearls are not only frequently here found, but of such a fineness and magnitude, as 
may be compared with any, except what the Indies afford ; and they are transport- 
ed toother countries in good parcels, so thatTavemier, the great French jeweller, in 
his travels to the East Indies, taketh notice of them, lliey are found in the bottom 
of the water, in a fislies shell, larger than that of the muscle. The fishing is most 
in the summer time.** p. 143. These " pearls,** says Dr Boog, in the former Sta- 
tistical Account, « have long disappeared, and the river has become a more certain 
source of wealth by its utility to an industrious and manufacturing neighbourhood." 
Stet. Ace. Vol, vii. p. 77. 



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PAISLEY. 147 

and for three years previous to the commencement of the im- 
provements, a steam«boat plied regularly between Paisley and 
Greenock, Gourock, Dunoon, and other. watering-places on the 
western coast. 

When the improvements above-mentioned are completed, it is 
expected, that a plan suggested by Dr Boog in the former Statisti- 
cal Account, by which the inhabitants of Paisley may reap the full 
benefit of the completion of the great canal between Forth and 
Clyde, will also be carried into effect It is, the formation of a 
branch from the great canal to the Clyde, to terminate as nearly 
opposite to the mouth of the Cart as the ground will permit; the ad- 
vantages of which must be great. * For this an Act of Parliament 
has been lately obtained. The proposed branch will be about three-* 
fourths of a mile, and it will save the distance of seven or eight 
miles to vessels trading between Paisley and the great canal. 

The Levem is a rivulet of considerable breadth and flow, and 
is noted for the many cotton-mills, bleaching-works, and print- 
fields, &C. on its banks. In many parts of its course from the 
southward, it exhibits scenes of sequestered and even romantic 
beauty. This river is famed, as having given a name to the inha- 
bitants of this district of country ; for the Levemaniy mentioned 
in historvs seem to have been no other than the men of Levern- 
side. It forms part of the eastern parochial boundary, and falls 
into the Cart, at the point of its entrance into this parish. 

The Black Cart, which rises in Cftstle Semple loch, may be 
noticed as forming the north-western boundary of this parish, and 
separating it from the neighbouring parish of Kilbarchan. 

Various streamlets proceed from the braes on the south, and 
lose themselves in the larger currents. Such are the Espedair 
and the Alt- Patrick bums. 

Between two and three miles to the eastward of the town of 
Paisley, a saline spring rises, called Candren Well ; on the pro- 
perties and virtues of which, the late Dr Lyall, a native of Paisley, 
but long settled in Russia, wrote a pamphlet, strongly recommend- 
ing the water as an aperient and corrective. Many of the springs 
that rise within the precincts of the town are slightly mineralized, 
especially the Seedhill Well, which, in former times, was occa- 
sionally used as a tonic. 

Geology and Mineralogy* — The geology of this parish is very 
simple in its general outline, but very interesting in many of its de- 

• See former Stat. Ace. Vol vii. p. 78. 

Digitized by VjOOQlC 



148 RENFREWSHIRE. 

tails. The high land of the parish is composed of secondary trap 
rock, while the low land of the parish is tiniformly composed of 
rocks belonging to the coal formation, and these are in general 
deeply covered with diluvium, containing many bouldered pieces 
of primitive and transition rocks. But secondary trap is the lowest 
rock seen in situ within the parish. This trap is composed of un* 
stratified masses of porphyry, amygdaloid, hornblende rock, green- 
stone, and basalt ; but the junction of these rocks with each other 
is for the most part hidden from observation. 

Porphyry of a grey or greyish blue colour constitutes the great 
mass of which the hilly division is composed. It varies in hard- 
ness in difibrent places, but is for the most part compact, and 
abounds with crystals of quartz, and pretty large rhomboidal plates 
of felspar. In many situations this rock assumes an amygdaloid 
structure, enclosing calcareous spar, arragonite, zeolite, stilbite, 
chabasite, &c and occasionally lai^e druses occur lined with preh- 
nite in mammaloid masses of a green or straw-colour, sometimes 
smooth, and in other instances crystallized on the surface. Preh- 
nite too is frequently found imbedded in, or constituting an integral 
part of the rock. 

Hornblende rockj with quartz and felspar, frequently occurs in 
detached masses both on the high and low grounds, and on the 
road to the farm of Braehead, about 400 feet above the level of 
the sea. Hornblende occurs almost without admixture with any 
other mineral. Its colour is dark green approaching to black, and 
it is so friable as to be easily reduced to its crystalline form by 
the slightest stroke of the hammer. In this locality, it seems to 
separate a mass of porphyry from a more amygdaloid rock, having 
a base similar to clinkstone. 

Greenstone is quarried in several places on the table-land. It 
is traversed by numerous veins of jasper and chalcedony, and con- 
tains several varieties of the zeolite family. Basalt is found mas- 
bive towards the western extremity of the range, nearly of a black 
colour, and replete with crystals of aiigite and olivine. 

The second or lower division is highly interesting on account of 

the value of the minerals to the manufactures of the district. 

These consist of sandstone, limestone, coal, aluminous shale, 

ironstone, fire-clay, bituminous shale, and trap rock. The sand- 

stone which abounds in the parish is that belonging to the coal 

measures. It is uniformly stratified. In some places, the rock is 

exposed on the surface, but more frequently is covered by a few 

4 



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PAISLEY. 149 

feet of diluvium, containing numerous rounded water-worn pebbles, 
and occasionally also by extensive beds of sand^ exhibiting the ap- 
pearance of a sea beach, and containing shells the same in species 
aa those at present existing in the adjacent Frith of Clyde. Im- 
mense numbers of these shells were found in digging the canal 
from Glasgow to Johnston. They were little altered in appear- 
ance ; and the impression left by a careful examination of the stra- 
tified sand in which they were found was, that they had been de- 
posited at the bottom of the sea, and that the lower part of the 
parish must consequently ^be of submarine formation. * 

For the most part, the colour of the sandstone is yellowish white, 
more or less tinged with iron. In texture it is commonly compact 
and small-grained, but this varies in different parts of the same 
quarry. In some localities, it is traversed by innumerable mi- 
nute veins of carbonaceous matter. In other places, it abounds in 
nodules of the common radiated iron pyrites. In most of the 
sandstone quarries, vegetable remains have been found from time 
to time, consisting of reeds, arborescent plants, and ferns. The 
former are often circular, but more generally flattened ; some of 
them are smooth "on the surface, others are sulcated longitudinally, 
and many are jointed. They are met with from half an inch to 
six or eight inches in circumference. The remains of the arbo- 
rescent ferns are for the most part marked externally with rbom- 
boidal impressions raised above the surface, and arranged around the 
specimen in a spiral order. All these remains are coated with 
charcoal, and their interior filled with siliceous or calcareous matter, 
often also with a considerable quantity of the proto-sulphuret of 
iron. The sandstone quarry in most repute is that of Nitshill, 
and is of such extent as to give employment to nearly one hundred 
men all the year round. The following description is from the 
pen of Mr Oatts, manager of the Hurlet Alum Works : 

** This rock has a gentle declivity from south to north, with a 
dip eastward. It lies over a stratum of coal 2 feet 6 inches thick. 
The rock is 60 feet in thickness from the coal upwards* In some 
parts it rises to the surface; in others, it is covered by 3 feet of 
earth. It contains three distinct strata of coal, besides the stratum 
underneath it This coal is quite different in its nature, quality, 
and value, from the neighbouring Hurlet coal. In the sandstone 
rock some remarkable specimens of fossil vegetable remains have 

• See Capt. Laskey*8 Account of these shells in Vol. iv. of the Transactions of the 
Wernerian Society. 



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150 RENPHEWSHIRE. 

been found. Two petrified trees found here are placed as curio- 
sities near the mansion of the proprietor at Househill, the one, ]0 
feet high, and 5 feet round at fhe bottom ; the other, 5 feet high, 
and 5^ feet round at the bottom, both having the large root fis- 
sures, and protuberances equally decided and discernible with any 
other of the full-grown timber that now adorns the surrounding 
lawn. A fossil fern procured at Levernshields is 3 feet in cir- 
cumference at bottom, 1 1 feet 4 inches high, — 3 feet more in 
length having be^n left behind when removing the petrifaction 
from the quarry. This specimen was foupd in the lower or bottom 
seam of the rock, with several others which were destroyed by the 
quarriers. All were found lying on a gentle declivity with their 
tops westwards. The natural pile and porous quality of the rock 
varies considerably on the different sides of each of these seams of 
coal, that next the bottom being the finest, that at the surface of 
the ground much coarser." 

In some parts of the above-mentioned quarry, a considerable 
quantity of iron pyrites occurs, which, upon exposure to the air, 
becomes gradually decomposed, and greatly disfigures and de- 
stroys the stone. When sandstone is met with in the immediate ^ 
vicinity of trap rocks, it becomes so much hardened in texture as 
to be able to withstand the efiects of weather and flood for an in- 
definite length of time ; as is well exemplified in the ridge of rock 
which stretches across the White Cart at Seedhill, immediately 
above the town of Paisley. 

Limestone belonging to the coal formation is very generally 
diffused throughout the lower division of the parish. It occurs in 
layers or beds, generally lying under the sandstone, or alternating 
with coal, ironstone, fire-clay, aluminous and bituminous shale, 
&c. In some localities it is found near the surface, and is then 
quarried. In other places, it is wrought by mining, especially 
where it occurs in the vicinity of coal. The principal quarries of 
this valuable rock are at Hurlet and Blackball. This limestone 
has generally a grey colour; is translucent on the edges; 
breaks with a flat conchoidal fracture ; and contains innumerable 
remains of different species of shells, entrochi, encrini, &c. besides 
numerous crystals of calcareous spar, and small masses of slaggy 
mineral pitch. 

Coal occurs abundantly in the lower division of the parish, 
which, as formerly stated, is entirely composed of rocks belonging 
to the coal formation. This valuable mineral may exist in the pa- 

3 



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PAISLEY. 15 1 

mh in very great quantities, as few trials comparatively have been 
made for it, in many places where there is at least a strong pro- 
bability that it might be found. It has been found within the 
town of Paisley, as at Gallowgreen; also near Meikleriggs; but 
by far the most profitable pits have been at Quarrelton and Hurlet 

The coal of Quarrelton consists of five continuous strata, which, 
in a field of about fifteen acres, is found to dip in several diiferent 
directions, as towards a centre^ thus forming a basin, but having 
its strata somewhat interrupted by hitches, at one of which the 
mass of coal is thrown up about 50 feet, and at another about 90 
feet These hitches interrupt not only the direction, but also the 
degree of dip. 

The following section of the coal strata at Quarrelton we ex- 
tract from the article ** Mine," in the Edinburgh Encyclopaedia. 
It was drawn up by the ingenious Robert Bald, Esq. civil^ngin- 
eer; and we have tested its accuracy. 

No. Nanus of the Strata. Yda. 
1. Greenstone, 36 

& Sandstone^ and common 
indurated clay, alter- 
nating in thin bands, 8 

3. Fire-clay, with coarse 

ironstoae» 4 

4. CoaU . 3 

5. Indurated clay, 
«L Coal, 3 
7> Indurated clay, 

81 1 6 

The above is a very interesting section of a coal field, which, 
according to Werner, belongs to the newest Jkstz trap formation. 
The striking peculiarities are : — 1. The great body of greenstone 
of the common crystallized texture, known in Scotland by the 
name of blue whinstone, found at the surface, and lying above the 
common coal strata, which are comparatively soft, and have lit* 
lie coherence. 

2. The vast body of coal lying together, consisting of ten beds. 
There are only seven beds in the section, but the fourth coal is 
commonly reckoned three beds, and the lower coal two beds, there 
being a difference in the quality, with thin divisions in some places 
betwixt them. The whole thickness is 90 feet 2 inches. Some 
of the coal is of the open burning kind, but the great part is of 
the close burning quality, similar to Newcastle coal, and breaks 
into small pieces. The coal abounds with inflammable air, and is 
liable to spontaneous ignition. In a great part of this coal-field, the 
coals amount to only one-half of the thickness represented in the 

RENFREW. L 



Fl. 


In. 


No. Names of the Strata, 


Yds, 


Ft. 


In. 








a Coal, 


3 












9. Indurated clay, 





I 









10. Coak 


B 














11. Indurated clay, 





1 









12. Coal, 


3 


1 











13. Indurated clay, 





2 


3 


1 





U. Coaly 


3 








1 





15. Indurated clay. 





1 





1 





16. Coal, 


s 


2 





2 


3 








, 



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152 RENFREWSHIRE. 

section ; but in the place where the section is taken, the coals lie 
as if they had been cut through, and one-half slid over the top of 
the other. This singular coal field is very limited in point of 
extent. * 

Hawkhead or Hurlet eoal is a stratum or seam 5 feet 3 inches 
thick, declining eastward with a dip which Ls variable, but may on 
an average be accounted one in seven. It extends over several hun-* 
dred acres of land, principally in the Hawkhead estate, but also iD 
the adjoining estates of Nether PoUoc and HousehilL By careful 
and accurate measurements it has been ascertained that this same 
bed of coal extends over 340 acres of Hawkhead estate, 85 acres 
of Nether Polloc, and 50 acres of Househill ; making in all an 
area of 475 acres imperial measure. 

The strata intersected in a pit near Hurlet, on the west side of 
Levem water, were as follows :- — 

1. Earth and clay, 

1m Sand and ^raTel, 

3. Schistui with some thin strata of limestone and many beds of iron 

stone and balls of ironstone, 
4» Limestone, . . 

5. Aluminous schtstus, 
6t Coal, containing balls of pyrites or copperas stones, 

"l66 4 

This coal contains sulphur, and thereby possesses the property 
of caking when exposed to heat. The miners remark, that sul- 
phur always exists in coed, lying immediately beneath limestone. 
The Hurlet mines at one time contained inflammable air, and 
through the negligence of some workmen in not using the neces- 
sary precautions, several valuable lives have been lost. Such acci- 
dents, however, are now in a great measure dissipated by the free 
circulation of atmospheric air throughout the waste, and the nume- 
rous pits or shafts communicating with each other, f 

* In May 1818 one of these mines at Quarrelton was overflowed with water, and 
five of the miners perished. Two of the others were rescued alive, after having been 
immured in the gloomy dungeon for ten days. A very interesting account of all 
the circumstances of this event is given in the Scots Magazine for 1819, p. S9. The 
statement was drawn up from the accounts of the men who escaped, both of whom* 
two brothers of the name of Hodgert, are still living. Appewanceson the west side 
of Quarrelton, and on the north side of the Beath road, indicate the fiict of the ground 
having sunk to a considerable extent. In the old Statistical Account (Vol. vii. p, 
61,) Uiis i% noticed as follows : — " Some years ago this coal took fire» and the pilUnra 
giving way, the ground sunk and left the surftoe in a very rugged state.** Similar 
appearances on the surface, indicative probably of similar causes, are to be noticed in 
others of the coal districts. 

i* See for ftirther information on this and analogous subjects^ Mr Wilson's Agri« 
cultural Survey, pp. 14-28, and 27^-881. 



MTCtt* iMCn€9 


42 





8 





n- 
105 





S 





3 


i 


5 


3 



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PAISLEY. 153 

The thickDess of the Nitthitt rock, measured downwards from 
the surface, ii^as follows : 

Ft, In, Ft, IH, 

1. Coarse sandstone, 26 7- Lower seam of rock (best kind) 17 

2. Upper stratum of coal, 1 8. Schistus or blaize^ like that of 

& Rock of thin layers with black No. 3, . . 10 

blaize mixed, .76 9. Coal, irith thin irregular strata 

4. Second stratum of coal, . 6 ofblaise 2 6 

6. Fire clay containing iron balls, 3 — — 

& Third stratum of coal, .18 60 2 

The lowOT stratum of coal only can be wrought by mining. The 
other seams, Nos. 2, 4, and 6, are taken in the course of working 
the rock, for which there is a brisk demand. 

In addition to the above, there are fields of coal on the south 
side of the turnpike road leading from Paisley to Beith, on the 
grounds of High Auchenlodmont, Elderslie, and Craigenfeoch. In 
this last field, 4 under seams of coal have lately been discovered ; 
the seam above these having been wrought above thirty years ago. 
In all, there are five distinct strata of coal, varying from 3^ to 5 
feet in thickness ; one of them having a stratum of gas coal of 9 
inches in thickness. These five seams of coal are at present wrought 
in separate Jofts or storeys. The three under strata have, how« 
ever, been frequently joined in one mass, forming a bed of coal 
upwards of 12 feet in thickness. In working, a considerable num* 
ber of men are constantly employed. The superincumbent mi- 
nerals at this place are whinstone, sandstone and blaize, or till. 

Ironttone has been extensively found in difierent parts of the 
lower division of the parish. It occurs in greatest abundance in 
the form of clay-ironstone, lenticular iron ore, and proto and per- 
sulphuret The first two of these ores occur, for the most part, in 
beds of various thickness, alternating with limestone, fire-clay, alu-> 
minous schistus, &c and are often very rich in metal. About thirty 
years ago, many hundred tons were annually sent from the parish 
to the smelting furnaces of Clyde iron- works. Ores of iron are 
still found in considerable quantities at Hawkhead, Hurlet, Black- 
hall, Sacel, &c and at most localities where there are beds of coal 
or lime. It occurs most frequently in the form of rounded masses 
of a moderate degree of magnitude, and very frequently of a len- 
ticular form. These contain often beautiful specimens of Camu 
amnumiij Ajwrniasj Produdusj 4*c. in a state of very perfectpreserva- 
tion. In other instances, the specimens are divided by septa of 
calcareous matter, or are filled with beautiful crystallized per- 
sulphurets of iron. At Hurlet, betwixt the aluminous schbtus and 
main seam of coal, a thin irregular layer of pyrites is sometimes 



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154 RENFREWSHIRE. 

found, not exceeding 2 inches in thickness. It is also found Very 
generally imbedded in the coals, in round balls. Both the proto and 
persulphuret of iron are abundant in the sandstone, coal, and alu- 
minous schistus. 

Aluminous schist is abundant at Hurlet, and probably also in 
other localities. At Hurlet, it lies beneath a bed of limestone, and 
rests on coal. It contains much proto-sulphur of iron, and is 
employed in the manufacture of the sulphurets of alumina and 
iron. The stratum of aluminous schist varies in thickness from 
6 inches to 3 feet and a-half. When first exposed by the removal 
of the subjacent coal, it is in the form of a hard compact rock, is 
quarried with difficulty, and is composed for the most part of 
proto-sulphuret of iron, sdumina, and coaly matter. Soon after 
the coal is temoved from the pit, (especially if there be little cir- 
culation of air^) the inferior surface of the schist becomes covered 
with an efflorescence, which after the lapse of some time is found 
to penetrate through its whole thickness, splitting the rock into 
laminae, and thus rendering it easily quarried. After a still longer 
period of time, it falls to the bottom of the mine by its own gra- 
vity, and from its light and spongy texture is termed chaff by the 
workmen. It then consists of minute whitish or greenish colour- 
ed fibres of the sulphurets of alumina and iron. Besides these sul« 
phurets the Hurlet mines occasionally produce specimens of the 
native sulphates of magnesia and of soda; the former of these 
in the shape of beautiful crystalline fibres. Its constituent parts 
in the fully decomposed state have been found as follows : 

Water, - 45 per cent 

Sulphur, - 25 

CUy^ - 10 

Oxide of iron, - 20 

100 

Fireclay occurs abundantly throughout the lower division of 
the parish. Its colour varies, being sometimes of a lead, at other 
times of a nut-brown colour. It is generally compact, hard, and 
capable of resisting a very high temperature. It generally assumes 
the form of beds or layers above and under coal, lime, &c. and 
often contains ironstone balls in considerable quantities. 

Bituminous shah occurs in great quantities, alternating with 
sandstone, limestone, coal, and ironstone ; its layers varying from 
one-eighth of an inch to ten inches and upwards in thickness. It 
contains innumerable impressions of reeds and bivalve shells, par- 



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PAISLEY- 156 

iicularly the Pedunculaia mytiUoides and Nucula aitentuUaj as at 
the mines of Blackball. 

Greenstone, or, as it is provincially called, tohinstane, occurs in- 
beds forming part of the coal measures at High Craig, Craigen- 
feoch, Elderslie, and near Seedbill mills, Paisley, This occur- 
rence, by no means common, is also to be found in Kilbarchan 
and Lochwinnoch. In some instances, as at Hallhill, the green- 
stone is conformable to the stratified rocks of the coal measures, 
but in other instances it overlies these rocks in an unconfor* 
mable position, as at High Craig and Craigenfeoch. This rock is 
most frequently of a bluish-grey colour, fine grained, and breaks 
v^ith a fracture more or less splinty and conchoidal. At Ladykirk, 
near Seedhills, the rock lies only a few feet below the sur&ce^ 
and has been wrought for many years to the depth of perhaps 30 
or 40 feet In this locality, the rock is traversed b^ numerous 
veins of calcareous matter, in which small cavities are frequently 
found, lined with crystals of silex, carbonate of lime, and mam- 
millary concretions of that mineral. Not unfrequently, there are to 
be found druses lined with crystals of carbonate of lime, and 
containing a bituminous substance of a colour and consistency 
closely resembling that of soft soap. In the recent state it is so 
transparent as to admit of subjacent objects being distinctly seen 
through it ; but after exposure to the air, it by and bye assumes 
a firmer and more wax-like consistence, but retains its transparency. 
Its lustre is resinous ; its feel soft and greasy ; its smell strongly 
bituminous, and somewhat resembling oil of amber. Its specific 
gravity is about 0.910. When heated, it melts, boils, and diffuses 
a whitish fragrant vapour. It is not remarkably inflammable, but 
when kindled burns with a light resembling that of a common 
candle. It readily dissolves in spirit of turpentine. In naphtha 
from coal tar it becomes fluid, and remains like a drop of olive oil 
at the bottom of the vessel in which the experiment is made. In 
sulphuric ether, alcohol, ammonia, caustic potash, the fixed oils, 
and the sulphuric, nitric, and muriatic acids, it remains unaltered. 
It differs in colour, consistence, and inflammability, from the mi^ 
neral oil of Professor Jameson, though it is certainly a variety of 
that substance. It is held in high estimation by the quarriers, as 
a healing salve ; and when procured is carefully stored up, and 
applied as a specific for cuts and bruises. 

At the farm of Arkleston, a basaltic rock of a rather curious 
tuiaceous character occurs, rising from 20 to 30 feet above the 



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166 RENFREWSHIRE. 

level of the plain* The rock is rapidly assuming an earthy ap- 
pearance. It contains considerable masses of a black, friable, and 
coally looking substance, easily reduced to powder between the 
fingers, leaving a carbonaceous stain. * 

Blue day abounds almost everywhere in the lower department 
of the parish. Indeed, the whole plain to the north of the hill 
called Oakshaw seems to consist of an immense basin of this use- 
ful deposit, in many places not less than 18 feet in thickness. It 
is for the most part soft and unctuous to the touch, and is exten- 
sively used in the manufacture of brick and tile. The greater part 
of this clay is pure, containing very few foreign substances, but 
near the bottom of the basin it assumes a muddy character, and 
incloses innumerable marine shells in a state of perfect preserva- 
tion, and retaining their gelatinous and albuminous parts ; as also 
rounded pieces of quartz, limestone, schist, &c A mass of shingle 
or loose water*wom gravel often occurs below this clay, and, for 
the most part^ rests on a bed of fire clay, sandstone, &c. 

Potter^s clay has been found about a mile to the south-west of 
Paisley, on the Brediland estate, where a pottery for the manufac- 
ture of coarse earthen-ware has been for some time carried on. 

Massy grmmd is abundant in the lower division of the parish ; 
but the peat moss, which in 1719 covered 300 acres, is now nearly 
all reclaimed. This moss lies upon a bed of gravel and rounded 
pebbles, incumbent on an extensive basin of blue clay. In the 
Paisley moss, the little that remains of the peat is light, and of a 
spongy texture. The peats are composed of the preserved roots, 
stems, and branches of Ericas^ Sphagnums^ and other heath 
plants, intermixed with twigs of birch, oak, furze, &c* The roots 
and tall straight branchless stems of large oak trees are abundant 
in these mossy districts, all deeply imbedded, but retaining almost 
their primitive hardness, and coloured to their centra of an inky 
blackness, from the bog-iro|i held in solution by the water, and 
retained by the spongy nature of the soil. These stems are uni- 
formly of a conical form at their base, and almost universally lie 
in a north-easterly direction. Their tall, tapering, and almost 
branchless forms, prove that they have formed part of an old and 
thickly growing wood, which, as various relics prove, has in part 

* In the former Statistical Account, notice is taken of a substance somewhat ami- 
lar being found in other places. " A bituminous substance is found both in the 
limestone and wbinstone quarries. It drops in a fluid state fiom the limestone at 
Blackball ; in that at Hurlet it is found solid, sometimes so indurated as t« be britlle, 
sometimes so soft as to be cut with a knife, in both cases highly in flammable. "•-» Vol. 
vii. p 83. 

4 



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PAISLEY. 157 

been cutdown by man, and in paii^ having attained its natural peviod, 
bas yielded to the force of the strongest and most prevailing blast* 
Branches of birch are also very abundant They retain their na- 
tural colour, in general are qpongy and flattened, but their cuticle 
remains fresh, glistening, and apparently unaltered. 

To the north-east of Paisley, on the farm of Gallowhill, a 
quarry has of Ute been wrought in an extensive bed of schistose 
rook, lying almost horizontally about 3 feet below the surface. Its 
colour is dark grey, approaching to black. Its texture is compact 
and fiue-graioed, and it readily splits into layers, but is with diflB- 
culty broken across. Its fracture is splintery and rather conchoi- 
daL It is composed of about 32 per cent, of carbonate of lime; 
47 of sand ; 9 of alumina; and about the same proportion of car- 
bonate of lime. This rock abounds in beautiful specimens of many 
genera and species of ferns, as also of shells, chiefly Terdn'a'* 
tuUBj NucukBf and Otikocerites. * The layer of till immediately 
above this rock for several ioches closely resembles fuller's earth. 

Mam^iMcture of MineraU* — The coal in the estate of Hawk- 
head has been wrought for upwards of 300 years, and that in 
Househill estate for 38 years, and is nearly exhausted in both of 
these properties ; but in the estate of Nether Polloc, where the coal 
has been recently opened up, there is still an extensive field un- 
touched, with the accompanying strata of aluminous schist us and 
limestone, all of which are extensively wrought by Messrs John 
Wilson and Sons, who hold them in lease from Sir John Maxwell 
H)f Nether Polloc Ironstone abounds at Hurlet, and the work- 
ing of it has recently been begun with activity by Messrs Wilsons, 
who have now upwards of 100 miners and other workmen em- 
ployed in this branch alone. The manufacture of sulphate of iron 
or copperas was introduced into Scotland by Messrs Nicolsoo and 
Lightbody of Liverpool, who established their works at Hurlet in 
the year 1753, having previously secured by contract a supply of 
die pyrites and other material fit for their processes, found in work- 
ing the coal, at 2^ per hutch of 200 weight. A similar establish- 
ment for manufacturing copperas was begun at Nitsbill in 1807, 
where it is still carried on by Messrs Wilson and Sons, who also 
in the year 1820, purchased the old copperas works at Hurlet, 
which were then converted into an extensive manufactory of alum 
by Mr Wilson Junior, the managing partner of that company. 

* Two species li>und liere, belonging to a rare genus, are described by Dr Souler 
in HKniMon's Records of General Science, Vol. i« 



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158 RENFREWSHIRE. 

The manufacture of alum was also first iutroduced into Scotland 
by Nicolson and Lightbody, who prepared considerable quantities 
of that article at their works at Hurlet in the years 1766 and 1767; 
but their process being defective^ the manii&cture was abandoned 
in 1768-9; and it was not till the year 1797, (when works were 
erected at Hurlet by Mr Mackintosh of Crossbasket, and Mr Wil- 
son of 1 hornly, and their partners) that the manu&cture of alum 
was successfully established ; but since that period the works now 
mentioned, as well as that established in 1820, under the manage- 
ment of Mr Wilson Junior, have been producing a large and 
steady annual supply of alum, manufactured on correct chemical 
principles. 

The extent of the various mining and chemical operations of 
Messrs John Wilson and Sons, all situated in this parish, will be 
best understood by the following statement, shewing the quantity of 
minerals turned out, and alum and copperas manufactured by that 
company for one year, namely, from Whitsunday 1835, till Whit* 
Sunday 1836 ; viz. 1. Minerals turned out during the year men- 
tioned, from the lands of Haugh, on the estate of Nether Polloc» 

Coal, - - 42,554 Tons, 

Limestone, - 4,931 

Aluminous Schistus, - 6,701 

Turned out in one year, 53,186 Tons. 

The whole of this large quantity was turned out from a single 
shaft or pit at Haugh. 

2. The quantity of alum and copperas manufactured by the 
same company during the year was, • 

Alum made at the work at Hurlet, formerly belonging to Nicholsons 

and Lightbody, - - 1200 Tons, 

Copperas made by them at Nitshill, . 300 

Manufactured in one year, - 1500 Tons. 

Large quantities of muriate of potash and sulphate of ammonia 
are also manufactured by the company, in connection with their 
alum process. The former article is extracted from kelp, and the 
latter is prepared from the ammonia liquor produced at the gas- 
works in Glasgow ; from whence it is conveyed to the alum-works 
by the Paisley and Glasgow Canal, and by the Hurlet Railway ; 
by which modes of conveyance, the greatest portion of H^irlet mi* 
nerals and alum and copperas are also sent to the markets of 
Glasgow and Paisley. The number of men employed by Messrs 
Wilson and Sons in the various operations, at and near Hurlet, 
is at present 380, and may* be divided thus: 



3 



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PAISLEY. 159 

ToUiers and miners and other workmen employed at Haugh coal-pit, 144 

Lime' blowers and other workers of lime there, - - 29 

Miners of aluminous scfaistus there, - - • 10 

Workmen employed manufacturing alum and copperas at Hurlet and Nitshill, 81 

Workmen employed at ironstone pits and mines at Hurlet. 1 16 

Total, 380 

The wages of the above workmen are, miners from Ss. 4d. to 
4s. per day, with houses, fires, and gardens, free of rent or other 
jcharge; labourers and others are paid from Is. lOd. to 2s. dd. per 
day, and are not allowed houses and fires free. 

There are in the employment of the company upwards of forty 
horses engaged at the works, or in conveying the minerals and other 
produce to Glasgow and Paisley. 

The operatives employed at the other works at Hurlet and Nits* 
hill, conducted by Mr Mackintosh, may amount to about 200 more, 
and they reside principally in the immediate neighbourhood. From 
the nature and extent of these works both above and below ground, 
the men are exposed frequently to fatal accidents. To provide 
against distress arising from such contigencies, a friendly society 
was established in 1811, which has done and promises to do much 
good. In a population of nearly 1000 souls within the boundaries 
of these works, 100 pupils are reported to be attending school, 
where the elements of reading, writing, and arithmetic are taught 
and where the teacher, encouraged by the friends of education and 
of youth, devotes himself on week-days and on Sabbath-days, to 
the moral and religious training of his charge. 

There is still too much ground for the remark of the learned 
author of Caledonia. ^^ Ironstone seems to be universally found 
within every division of Renfrewshire : * But we hear nothing of any 
iron work. It is, however, more than probable, that in a shire 
which abounds with water for driving machinery, and has plenty 
of coal, iron works of every kind will be established, and will be of 
importance, in proportion to the capital that may be employed ; so 
as to furnish employment more steadily to an industrious people." * 
We have much pleasure in closing this account with the following 
remarks from Mr Wilson's excellent Agricultural Survey of Ren- 
fewshire : ^^ In many places where this division of Renfrewshire is 
intersected by the rivers White Cart and Gryfe, and the rivulets 

* In the lands of Blackball the property of Sir M. S. Stewart, M. P., valuable 
beds of iron ore hare been within these few weeks discovered ; and Sir W. Milli- 
ken Napier, Bart, of Milliken (Kilbarchan parish,) has lately made a similar dis- 
covery on his estate. 

t Caledonia, Vol. iii. p. 767. 



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160 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Levern and Locher, imtneDse quantities of iroDstone may be 
observed cropping out on the banks of those streams. The de- 
tached ironstone bands and balls, which are to be found as con- 
comitant strata of almost all the coal-works in the county, «re also 
worthy of notice." ^^ It is therefore highly probable that a mineral 
which the county contains in such profusion, will in some future 
period be held in higher estimation, prove an addition to the wealth 
and importance of this county,, and give a new spring to the in- 
genuity and exertion of its inhabitants." * 

Botany.f — Tlie surface of the Abbey parish, being considerably 
deversified with hill and heath, wood and glen^ fields of various 
soils, marshes, and running waters, it necessarily presents many 
congenial habitats for wild plant& The hills are not, however, suf- 
ficiently high to produce any decidedly characteristic effect upon 
their Flora : nor is the parish so circumstanced as that it can boast 
of the particular plants to be found near the sea- shore. The num- 
ber, therefore, of what may be termed rare plants may not be so 
numerous as in some localities, yet their variety is amply sufficient 
both to interest and to instruct the student of nature. 

The high grounds in the parish, known by the name of Stane- 
ley, Gleniffer, and Femeeze hills, which consist entirely of por- 
phyritic and other trap rocks, whose soil is, for the most part, of 
a moorish nature, and which slope towards the north, are in many 
places covered with the Ulex, Cytisus, and Pteris aquilina, but, on 
certain dry and sheltered localities, the following among many other 
plants occur, viz. Epipactis latifolia, Listera ovata, Gymnadenia 
conopsea, Jasione montana, Erythrsea Centaurium, Gentiana cam- 
pestris. Campanula rotundifolia, Vaccinium Myrtillus, Gnaphalium 
dioicum and minimum, Viola canina, lutea, and tricolor, &c. On 
the more marshy grounds the Orchis maculata, mascula and lati- 
folia are abundant, together with Parnassia, Ajuga, Comarum, Eu- 
phrasia, Pedicularis, Cardamine, various species of Ranunculus, Po- 
lygala vulgaris of various colours, and Prunella vulgaris, both blue 
and white. 

In the high mossy districts, the Calluna vulgaris, Erica tetralix, 
Vaccinium Oxycoccos, Narthecium Ossifragum, Pinguicula vulga- 
ris, Drosera rotundifolia, and in Paisley moss, D. longifolia, where 

• Wilson's Survey, p. 26. 

'*' The notices respecting the Botany and Zoology of the parish have been ftirnished 
by Dr A. R. Young, formerly of this town, but now resident at Dunoon,— «n in- 
dividual distinguished for his knowledge in both of these departmenU of natural 
science. 



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PAISLEY. 161 

abo Andromeda palyfolia used to abound, but has of late years 
been totally eradicated. Two species of Eriophonun^ and several 
species of Carex, Schoenus, Scirpus, and Juncus; also Poly trichum, 
Cenomyce, Sphagnum, and other Cryptogamia, abound in the mos^ 
sy districts of the high and low grounds. 

In the glens and shady places are to be found the Lysimachia 
nemoruro, and nummularia; Chrysoplenium altemifolium, and 
oppositifolium; Circea Lutetiana, Adoxa moschatellina, Oxalis ace- 
tosella, Mercurialis perennis, Asperula odorata, Primula vulgaris 
and veris. Lychnis dioica, occasionally with white odoriferous 
flowers, Scolopendrium vulgare, and several species of Polypodium, 
Aspidium, and Asplenium. The Epilobium angustifolium occurs 
at Gleniffer Glen, and Trollius Europaeus at Bundrain, in the west 
of the parish. 

Among the rubbish of several old limestone and other quarries, 
thefoUowing plants aremet with, viz. Reseda luteola, Teucrium Sco- 
Todonia, Pyrethrum parthenium and inodorum, Artemisia vulgaris, 
and#Tanacetum vulgare. On the walls of Staneley Castle, the 
Parietaria officinalis, Fumaria capreolata and claviculata, are to 
be met with ; and on the old walls of gardens and fields, the Arabis 
Thaliana, Draba vema, Sedum villosum and acre, are not uncom- 
mon. In an old \^all near Dundonald, the Grammitis Ceterach 
occurs in considerable abundance, together with many species of 
native ferns. On way sides, in two or three localities, the Lamium 
album and purpureum, Sherardia arvensis, Bartsia Odontites, Hy- 
pericum perforatum, humi&sum, quadranguhim, hirsutum and puU 
chrum, Nq)eta cataria. Antirrhinum linaria, Arctium lappa, both 
cottony and smooth. In grain fields, the Anagallis arvensis and 
cerulea, Picris hieracioides, Chrysanthemum segetum and leucan* 
themum, and Agrostemma Githago are not uncommon, but the 
Centaurea cyanus and Papaver Rhaeas are but seldom seen in the 
parish. On pasture grounds in the lower part of the parish the 
Apargia hispida and autumnalis, and Ononis arvensis occur. In se- 
veral of the burying grounds the Conium maculatum is abundant; 
and at Meikleriggs farm, the Myrrhis odorata has grown vigorous- 
ly and abundantly for many years. 

On the banks of the rivers, ditches, and in marshy ground, the 
Sparganium ramosum, Typha latifolia, Lythrum salicaria, Doro- 
nicum pardalianches, Irispseudacorus, Valeriana officinalis. Spiraea 
ulmaria. Geranium pratense, Scrophularia aquatica and nodosa 
Symphytum tuberosum and officinale, Myosotis palustris, Phellan- 



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162 RENFREWSHIRE. 

drium aquaticum, Barbarea vulgaris, Nasturtium officinale, Meny« 
anthes trifoliata, Caltha palustris, and Petasites vulgaris, are all to 
be found, some of them in great abundance. In Black Cart and 
some reservoirs of water, the Nymphea alba may be seen ; the Nu- 
phar lutea. Ranunculus lingua, aquatilis, and hederaceus, Alisma 
plantago and ranunculoides, Polygonum amphibium and Hydropi- 
per, and several species of Potamogeton, are by no means uncom* 
mon. 

In the shade of woods and coppices, the Anemone nemorosa, 
Hyacinthus non-scriptus, Sanicula Europae, Stachys sylvatica, 
Habenaria viridis, Betonica officinalis, Fragaria vesca, are fre- 
quent : while the Solanum dulcamara. Convolvulus sepium, and 
many other plants, are found taking advantage of the support and 
shelter of the hedge. 

Several extensive woods and plantations occur throughout the 
parish, besides numerous ornamental clumps and belts for affording 
shelter. On the high grounds, these clumps and belts consist for 
the most part of birch, larch, spruce, silver and Scotch firs. On the 
low grounds, on the contrary, the hard woods are more frequently 
planted in like situations, such as the oak, elm, plane, horse-chest- 
nut, ash, &c intermingled with some of the more showy, though 
less valuable species. These are always nursed for several years 
with speedy growing deciduous trees, as the various poplars, and 
also with such evergreens as the spruce and Scdtch firs : these are 
removed from time to time, as the more valuable trees enlarge. 

Zoology. — The following mammalia are to be found in the Ab- 
bey parish and vicinity : — Vespertilio murinus, and more rarely, as 
at Crookston Castle, Rhinolophus Hipposideros and Plecotus au- 
ritus. The Erinaceus Europaeus, Talpa Europsea, sometimes of a 
white colour, are numerous. The Sores araneus is common, the 
fodiens somewhat rare. The Mustela vulgaris, and sometimes M. 
putorius, are killed. The Meles taxus, Lutra vulgaris, Felis ca- 
tus, and Martes fagorum, have also been killed within the parish, 
but must be considered as very uncommon. The Mus musculus, 
sylvaticus, and decumanus, are very abundant, as is also the Arvicola 
aquatica. The Delphinus Phocaana and orca are said to have been 
seen in the White Cart in pursuit of fish. 

The indigenous reptiles are not numerous. The most common are 
Vipera communis, Triton aquations and vulgaris, Rana tempo- 
raria, and Bufo vulgaris. The Lacerta agilis and Anguis fragilis, 
have both been taken on the Gleniffer hills, but are very rare. 



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PAISLEV. 163 

The following birds have been seen or killed in the parish, or its 
immediate vicinity, viz. Perdix cinerea, Lagopus Scoticus, and oc- 
casionally on the high grounds, Tetrao tetrix, and Coturnix vulga- 
ris. The Coluniba Palumbus is abundant. The most common 
birds of prey are the Buteo Nisus, and Palumbarius, Falco ^salon^ 
and Circus cyaneus, but the Falco peregrinus and Tinnunculus, 
and Buteo vulgaris and aeruginosus, have also been killed. The 
Aluco flammeas, and Strix stridula, are not unfrequently seen, but 
the Otus vulgaris and brachyotusare to be considered as rare birds 
in the parish. Between the 8th and 18th of April, the Hirundo 
riparia, rustica, and urbica, make their appearance ; the first, gene- 
rally by the 9th, while the Cypselus Apus seldom arrives till the end 
of the month. By the beginning of October, they take their depar- 
ture. The Turdus viscivorus, musicus, and Morula, are common, 
the torquatus is rare, but the T. pilaris and iliacus, are regular 
winter visitants. The Caprimulgus Europseus, Muscicapa grisola^ 
Sylvia rubicola and Phoenicurus visit the parish in summer ; the S. 
rubecula continues throughout the year, our earliest songster in 
spring, and the last in autumn. The following summer-birds are 
occasionally seen : Curruca sylvia, sylviella, locustella, hortensis^ 
sibilatrix, atricapilla, and Regulus trochilus. The Accentor mo- 
dularis, Troglodytes vulgaris, and Regulus cristatus, remain in the 
parish the whole year, as also the Motacilla alba and boarula; the 
M. flava is to be seen only during the summer months. The Loxia 
curvirostra, Pyrrhula vulgaris, Stumus vulgaris, are all regular vi- 
sitants. The Alauda arvensis, Emberiza citrinella, miliaria, Schoe- 
niculus are common ; the E. cirlus and nivalis, visit only in the win*- 
ter months. The Parus major, caeruleus, caudatus, and palustris, 
Pyi^ita domestica, FringiUa coelebs, cannabina, linaria, and cardue^ 
lis, are all abundant, except the last species, which is seen only oc- 
casionally. On the Argyleshire coast, they are very numerous, coming 
to the shore in large flocks during frosty weather. The Alcedo 
ispida, Certhia iamiliaris, and Garrulus glandarius, are rare birds ; 
the first has frequently been observed on the banks of the rivers, and 
the two last in the woods of Crookston. The Pica caudata, Cor- 
vus frugilegus and monedula are common ; the C. corone and cor- 
nix very rare. In April, the Cuculus canorus pays his annual visit, 
and takes his departure in July. On the river banks, the Ardea 
cinerea, Rallus aquaticus, Gallinula chloropus and porzona, Fuli- 
ca atra, Totanus fuscus, macularia, and hypoleucos, are frequent- 
ly observed. The T. glareola, calidris, and glottis, are compara-^ 
tively rare. The Numenius arquata, Tringa alpina, and sometimes 



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164 RENFREWSHIRF. 

in winter, T. ininuta» have been killed in the parish. The Scolo- 
pax gallinago and gallinula are sometimes observed, as also & rus- 
ticola. The Vanellus cristatus, Squatarola cinerea, Charadrius 
pluvialis and morinellus, are all regular summer visitors. From the 
proximity of the parish to the Frith of Clyde, several aquatic birds 
are occasionally seen^ especially in stormy weather and during win- 
ter ; such as Anas Boschas, crecca, and penelope, Clangula vulga- 
ris, Larus canus, argentatus, fuscus, ridibundus, and rissa ; Cata** 
ractes vulgaris, Puffinus Anglorum, Stemo hirundo, Alca torda. 

The fishes commonly met with in the Black and White Cart 
consist of the Petromyzon fiuviatilis, Salmo salar, fario, and trut- 
ta; occasionally Osmerus eperlanus, Thymallus vulgaris, and the 
small fry of Clupea harengus. The Esox lucius, Leuciscus rutilus 
and phoxinus, Pagrus vulgaris, Perca fiuviatilis, Platessa Flesus, 
Anguilla vulgaris, Gasterosteus aculeatus, and, not unfirequently, 
the Cobitis barbatula, are all indigenous. 

The following land shells are to be found in the parish in win- 
ter, under the rubbish of old quarries and turf-capped walls, and 
in the fir plantations on the Gleniffer hills, viz. Helix aspersa, ne- 
moralis, hortensis, arbustorum, nitida, and rufescens, Vitrina pel- 
lucida, Bulimus lumbricus, Pupa muscorum and bidentata, Cary- 
chium minimum, and Balea perversa. In White Cart and Pais- 
ley canal, the Anodonta anatina is very abundant, and of large size, 
and occasionally contains well-fonped pearls. The Lymnea palus- 
tris, limosa, and fossaria, and, more rarely, the Ancylus fiuviatilis 
and Planorbis carinatus are to be found in streams of running water, 
as the GleniSer bum : the Physa fontinalis is now very rare. 

In the lower strata of the blue clay which abounds in the lower 
part of the parish, the following sea-shells occur, enveloped in a 
soft muddy clay, viz. univalves. Turbo littoreus and rudis, Nerita 
littoralis and glaucina, Fusus comeus and antiquus, also two spe- 
cies of Buccinum, not now inhabiting the adjoining seas ; toge- 
ther with numerous fragments of Patellae, Balani, Corallines, and 
Serpulae. The Bivalves consist of Cyprina Islandica of all sizes, 
Mya arenaria and truncata, Mactra lutraria, Mytilus edulis pnd 
modiola, Nucula minuta, and numerous remains of Pectens, Tel- 
linae, and Lucinae. 

In the limestone and shale found in the parish, the following 
shells and exuvia occur: Terebratula sacculus, ambigua, and cru- 
mena, Productus longispinus and Martinii, Gryphsea incurva, Nu- 
cula attenuata, Unio Urii, Pedunculata mytilloides, with many 
Entrochi, and, nurely, fragments of Ammonites and Orthooerites. 



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PAISLEY. 165 

IL — Civil History. 

Hisiorical Aeemmis. — We are not aware of any MS. accounts 
of the town or parishes of Paisley. The principal sources of infor- 
mation regarding the past history and present state of Paisley are 
the following: Crawfurd's History of Renfrewshire^ first published 
IB I710;'ieptiblished with additions by William Semple, a native 
of Pabley, in 1782; and edited for the third time, with continua- 
tion and additions by George Robertson, in 1818 ; — Description of 
the Sheriffdom of Renfrew, compiled about 1810 by William Ha- 
milton of Wishaw ; and printed with illustrative notes and appen- 
dices by the Maitland Club of Glasgow, 1831 ; — Description of 
Renfrewshire by Principal Dunlop of Glasgow, published by the 
Maitland Club, 1831 ; — Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. iii. ;-^Mr 
Wilson's Agricultural Survey; — Dr Bums on the Poor; — The 
Paisley Magazine 1818; — Historical and Descriptive Sketch of 
Paisley prefixed to the Paisley Directory of 1832-^ ; — and Swan's 
Description of the Town and Abbey of Paisley, 1835. 

Black Book ofPaUky.—The celebrated <' Black Book of Pais- 
ley" has by many been supposed to contain a history of ancient 
Paisley, or at least of its venerable monastery. It turns out to be 
nothing more than the famous ^^ Scotichronicon" of John Fordun, 
who lived about the middle of the fourteenth century, and was a 
native of the village of Fordoun, in Kincardineshire, from which 
he seems to have taken his name. He undertook the task of 
writing the chronicles of Scotland, from a laudable desire to sup- 
ply the want of those historical monuments which Edward L car- 
ried away to England. The work commences at a period nearly 
coeval with the beginning of the world, and after two books of what 
may be considered as fabulous matter, we have a very respectable 
repository of events in Scotland, from 1056 to 1153^ The first 
seven chapters of the first book contain ** a general description 
of the world and its divisions;" and then begins the history of 
Scotland. Geythelus, the son of a Grecian King, is said to have 
been banished by his father into Egypt, where he married Scota, 
the daughter of that very Pharaoh who perished in the Red Sea. 
As Moses under Divine command led the Israelites eastward, so 
Geythelus and Scota are said to have led their followers westward, 
wh«re they discovered a ^^ fitir island to the north." Geythelus 
did not live to visit it, but his son Hyber (hence Hibemid) landed 
on it, and called it Seoiia in memory of his mother ! Thus the 
venerable priest claims for his country a sufiiciently high antiquity. 



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166 RENFREWSHIRE. 

The second book is wholly occupied with a description of the island 
thus discovered ; and the third, fourth, and fifth books contain what 
is properly the ^^ chronicle," and it is a valuable remnant of the 
olden time. One Walter Bower or Bowmaker, as he is sometimes 
called, who became Abbot, not of St Columba, as has been sup- 
posed, but of Inchcolm, in 1418, continued the work of Fordun to 
the death of James L, 1436. The work was held in such esteem 
that various MS. copies of it were made by the inmates of diffe- 
rent monasteries in Scotland, and these generally took their names 
from the places where they were executed. Hence we have '* the 
Black Book of Scone ;" a monk of Scone having been, along with 
Bower, one of the minor continuators of Fordun. Of this MS. 
Sir James Balfour made an abstract, from which it appears to have 
been truly a copy of the original Scotichronicon. Then, we have 
the Black Book of Paisley, Magnus etniger liber PasleHj — an extract 
or copy made, it is said, first at Holyroodhouse, and afterwards pos- 
sessed by the monks at Paisley, who held it in great esteem. Then 
we have the ^^ Liber Carthusiensis" of Perth ; and the famous book 
of the Pluscardine Priory near Elgin. Of MS. copies of the *^ Sco« 
tichronicon," with its continuations, there are extant at least six ; a 
noble one in the College Library of Edinburgh, the gift of Princi* 
pal Colvil about the middle of the seventeenth century; one in the 
University Library of St Andrews ; one in the possession of the 
B^presentatives of Lord Viscount Tarbat ; one in the Cotton li- 
brary at Oxford, containing only Fordun's portion, however ; one 
in Bennett College, Cambridge ; and one in the King's Library, 
now deposited in the British Museum. This is the gennine 
^^ Black Book" of Paisley, of which we have just received the 
following notice in a letter from Joseph Stevenson, Esq. one of 
the Librarians of the British Museum. ** The volume you men- 
tion is amongst the MSS. presented by George II. to the museum 
at its foundation, and is now marked 13 E« ^ It is a fine folio 
volume upon vellum, written in the fifteenth century, and contains 
a good copy of Fordun's Scotichronicon. It was carried away 
from Scotland by Greneral Fairfax, a great collector of MS&9 
and was afterwards purchased by Charles II. for L. 100, and by 
him placed in the Library of St James's. Hearne collated it for his 
edition of Fordun, printed at Oxford in 1722, in the preface to 
which work you will find a larger account of it." We have ex* 
amined the editions of the work by Heame, by Grale, and by 
Goodall; and, while we could dispense with the fabulous parts of 



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PAISLEY. 167 

the work, we are inclined to think that a good {Inglish translation of 
the really historical parts, with the moral and political reflexions in- 
terspersed, is a desideratum in literature. It is scarcely necessary to 
add, that the sombre colour of its covering gave the name to this far- 
famed MS* At what time it changed its dress we cannot say ; 
but it is upwards of a century since Bishop Nicolson and Sir Ro- 
bert Sibbald claimed for it the epithet *^ red'' as more strictly ap- 
propriate* 

The Chartulari/ of Paisley.— Jn 1832 the Maitland Club of Glas- 
gow conferred a singular boon on the lovers of antiquarian lore, 
by the publication of the Register or Chartulary of the monastery 
of Paisley. The MS., which was presented to the club by the 
Earl of Glasgow, its noble President, is the same which was long 
in possession of the Earls of Dundonald ; and it has been collat- 
ed with the copy in possession of the Faculty of Advocates. An 
admirable prefatory dissertation has been prefixed by Cosmo Innes, 
Esq. Advocate, who edited this work. In the dissertation, various 
strange blunders of George Crawfurd have been pointed out ; and a 
most interesting view given of the genuine uses to which such mo- 
numents of other times may be applied, in illustration of the man- 
ners of the respective periods ; the genealogies of families ; and the 
authentic history of the times. 

Maptf PlanSf or Surveys of the Parish. — No plans or surveys of 
this parish distinct from the other parishes of the county have been 
published, or are known to exist An excellent map of the town and 
suburbs, on an extended scale, was drawn up and published about 
fifteen years ago by Mr Knox, and a new edition of it, with the 
necessary changes and improvements, is at present in progress 
(1887.) The engraving of Paisley in 1693^ appended to the Pais- 
ley Magazine, we have compared with the original in Sietzer's 
* '* Theatfum Scotise," and found it perfectly accurate. 

Historical Notices. — Though of comparatively recent date as a 
principal seat of British manufactures, Paisley is of venerable an- 
tiquity as a place of note. The whole of the county of Renfrew, 
in which Paisley is now the chief town, lay within the Roman pro- 
Tince of Valentia. The general voice of antiquarians assigns Pais- 
ley as the place designated by Ptolemy, the celebrated Egyp- 
tian geographer, Vanduaria. That the Romans had here a post 
of importance is unquestionable. Principal Dunlop wrote his 
description of Renfrewshire about the end of the seventeenth 
century, and has given the following account : ^^ That the Ro- 

RENFREW. M 



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168 RENFREWSHIRE. 

inans came this length" (to ReDfrewshire) '^ is more than pro« 
bable; for as there are in many places, from the one end of 
Clydesdale to the other, visible, undeniable vestiges, for whole 
miles of way together, of an old Roman street, from Erickstane, 
in the head of Eusdale, to Maul's Mire, at this end where it 
bordereth this shire, (called this day Watline Street,* corruptly 
for Vitellian or Vitellius' Street,) so there are continued ves- 
tiges of their being" (having been) ^^ in this shire ; for at Pasley, 
there is a large Roman camp to be seen. The prsetorium or in* 
nermost part of the camp is on the west end of a rising ground or 
little hill called Oakshawhead, on the south-east descent of which 
standeth the town of Pasley. The prsetorium is not very lai^, 
but hath been well fortified with three fouss^es and dikes of earth, 
which must have been large, when to this day their vestiges are so 
great that men on horseback will not see over them. The camp 
itself hath been great and large, it comprehending the whole hilL 
There are vestiges on the north side of the fouss^ and dike, 
whereby it appears that the camp reached to the river of Cart. On 
the north side, the dike goeth alongst the foot of the hill ; and if 
we allow it to have gone so far, on the other side, it hath enclosed 
all the space of ground on which the town of Pasley stands, and it 
may be guessed to be about a mile in compass. Its situation was 
both strong and pleasant ; overlooking the whole country. I ba:ve 
not heard that any have been so curious as to dig the groond into 
the prsetorium : but when they tread upon it, it giiees a sound as if 
it were hollow below, where belike there are some of their vaults. 
Near to this camp, about a quarter of a mOe, stand two other rises 
or little hills, the one to the west, the other to the south, which, 
with this, make almost a triangular form, where have been sta- 
tions for the outer guards. The vestiges of these appear, and make 
them little larger than the prsetorium of the other camp, of the 
same form, without any other fortification than a fouss^ anddike."f 

* The Roman road here referred to is that from Carlisle to Paisley. SlauUmyrt 
is on the estate of Castlemilk, and not for from Ruthei^len, and there the remains of 
an ancient causeway are to be traced, although Chalmers is of opinion that antiqua- 
rians have not been very successful in connecting it either with the Roman road to 
Paisley, or with the Rioman road through Clydesdale. There seems no reason lo 
doubt, however, that from Glasgow, a branch of the great Carlisle way diverged to 
the left and went across the country to Vanduaria, (Paisley,) Gordon (Itin, Sept.) 
traced it in 1725 ; and Horsley soon after. Chalmers, VoL i. p. 138. There is lit- 
tle doubt that the weU known street of Paisley, called Camtewaytide Street, must 
have taken its name fit>m its following the track of, or running contiguous to the old 
Roman causeway. In Bleau's map (1634) Cautmaydd appears as a small dachan at 
some little distance from the town, and deriving its name from the Roman road near it. 

t In Bishop Gibson^s additions to Camden's account of the country formerly poi- 



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PAISLEY. 169 

When Waher the first Stewart founded a monastery at Paisley, 
in 1 16d> there does not appear to have been any village at the 
place.^ The monastery was planted on the eastern bank of the 
White Cart ; and opposite to it, on the western bank of that river, 
there gradually arose a village, which, as it stood on the lands of 
the monastery, belonged to the monks. It was inhabited almost en- 
tirely by the retainers of the monastery, and, till a comparatively 
modem period, was limited in extent and population. Hamilton of 
Wishaw gives the following ac^^ount of it about the beginning of 
last century : ** The most considerable place in this jurisdiction, 
and where the Sheriff- Court and court of Regality usually sits, is 
Pasley, the seat of a very considerable and ancient monasterie, si- 
tuat upon the water of Kert, some few miles above, where it falls 
into Clyde, in a pleasant, fertile, and rich soile ; to which boats can 
come from the sea to the bridge of Paisley, where the water of 
Kert dirideth between the Abbacy and the town of Pasley, which is 
a very pleasant and well built little town, plentifully prorided with 
fldl sorts of grain, fruitts, coalls, peats, fishes, and what else is pro- 
per for the comfortable use of man, or can be expected in any 
other place of the kingdom," *f- 

In the time of Crawfurd, Paisley consisted but of one principal 
street with some divergent lanes, containing in all perhaps 2000 in- 
habitants. 

History cotd Constitution of the Burgh. — The town of Paisley is 
in form a burgh of barony. The lands now constituting the 
buigh were, prerious to the erection thereof, held by the Abbot 
and convent of the monastery of Paisley, of the order of Cluny, 
in libera regalitaU. 

Four charters, of date ISth January 1451, conferring numerous 
pririleges, granted by James IL, << monasterio de Pasleto," are to 
be found on record. 

In the first year of the reign of King James IV., the burgh, 
formerly a regality, was erected into a free burgh of barony. The 
privileges contained in the charter were granted to the inhabit- 
ants: but the lordship of erection, including the power of appoint- 
ing a provost, baillies, and other office-bearers, was given to the 
abbot and his successors. 



I by the Celtic tribe of the Damnii, we hsre » description of the Roman camp at 
Pauley, to the same eflPect, and nearly in the same words with the above account of 
the PnncipaL We think it therefore quite unnecessary to insert it here. 

* See Chartulary of Pairiey, printed by the Maitland Club, Nos. ii. rii. &o. appen- 
dix. 

t Volume of Maidand Club for 1881, p. 73. 



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170 RENFREWSHIRE. 

The narrative of this charter is illustrative of the history of the 
abbacy of Paisley. It proceeds on " the consideration of the sin- 
gular devotion which his Majesty had to his glorious confessor, 
St Mirrinus, and his monastery of Paisley, founded by his Ma- 
jesty's most noble progenitors, (where most of the bodies of his 
ancestors are buried and rest,) and on account of the singular fa- 
vour and love which his Majesty bore to the venerable father in 
Christ, George Schaw, then abbot of the said monastery, a coun- 
cillor much beloved for his faithful attachment, repeatedly shown, 
by the said venerable father, to the King, in times that are past ; 
and chiefly on account of the virtuous education and very dear 
upbringing of the King's brother, James Duke of Ross, in his 
tender age." The date of this charter is 20th August 148a 

On the 2d June 1490, a feu charter and confirmation, with an 
extensive enumeration of privileges, was granted by the abbot and 
convent in favour of the provost, baillies, burgesses, and commu«> 
nity of the burgh. 

In the tenth year of his reign, and on thfe dd January 1576, 
King James VL granted to the burgh a *' charter de omnibus 
altaragiis, capelariis, terris firmis, &c." which appears to be the 
foundation of the right of patronage in the burgh first exercised 
by the Abercom and Dundonald families, and afterwards acquir- 
ed by the magistrates and council from Lord Dundonald in 17d3» 

It is well known that at the Reformation, towards the end of 
the sixteenth century, the monasteries of Scotland were suppres- 
sed, and their revenues seized bj the crown, which the Govern- 
ment, in most cases, effected, by concluding a bargain with the 
heads of religious establishments, and prevailing with (or rather 
compelling,) them to resign the same into the hands of the crown 
or its donators. 

Sir Thomas Hope, who was Advocate to Charles I. and has al- 
ways been regarded as a writer of most respectable authority, 
states, *^ that on the 6th of the ides of December 1653, John 
Hamilton, natural son of James Earl of Arran, who was then Ab- 
bot of Paisley and Bishop of Dunkeld, and afterwards Archbi- 
diop of St Andrews, with the Queen's consent, {reservatis sAi 
JhictibuSfJ resigned the abbacy, comprehending the lordship of 
erection of the burgh, in favour of Lord Claud Hamilton, a child 
of ten years of age, notwithstanding that it is expressed in the 
bulls of Pope Julius, that he was fourteen years old. This Lord 



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PAISLEY. 171 

Claud was third son of James, Duke of Cliatelfaerault, Governor 
of Scotland. 

'* He adhered to Queen Mary's interest, and was at the field of 
Langside, in the year 1568, for which he was forfeited, and Pais- 
ley, then in the crown's hands, was bestowed by the Regent upon 
Robert, son to William, Lord Sempill, heritable bail lie of Pais- 
ley, and justiciary of that regality ; but Lord Claud being after- 
wards restored to his fortune, was, in the year 1591, by the favour 
%^ King James VL, created Lord Paisley." 

The charter here alluded to, uniting the abbacy and its appen- 
dages into a temporal lordship and barony, in the person of Lord 
Claud Hamilton, with the title of Lord Paisley, is to be found on 
record, dated 22d March 1591. 

In 1659^ James, second Earl of Abercorn, who succeeded his 
&tber, created first Earl in 1606, disponed the abbacy, and with 
it the lordship of erection of the burgh of Paisley, in favour, first 
of the Earl of Angus, and immediately after, in favour of William 
Lord Cochran, of Paisley and Dundonald, who appears by the 
records to have obtained a crown charter thereof, on 14th July 
1662. * 

Previous to obtaining said charter, William, Lord Cochran, and 
William, Master of Cochran, his eldest son, entered into a con- 
tract with the magistrates and council of the burgh Sd May 1658^ 
wherein his Lordship and son profess their desire ^^ to preserve and 
keep entire the whole forms, freedoms, privileges, liberties, and 
immunities of the burgh, and to corroborate, strengthen, and aug- 
ment the same, for the better thriving and flourishing of the burgh.'' 
Moved by these considerations, ^^ and for certain sums of money, 
paid and delivered to them," they sold, reuounced, and overgave, 

* The first Earl of Aberoorn, ** a man of extraordioary acoomplishment8,"acoord- 
inff to Hamilton of Wishaw, died at Moncktoun, in Ayrshire, on the 23d of March 
1618. The following extract from his last will and testament affords a pleasing in. 
stance of fiuth and pious resignation :— 

** I committ my saul in ye holie handis of my guid God and merciful Father, fra 
quhome, throw ye ricbteous meritis of Christ Jesus, I luik to ressave it again at ye 
glorious resurectionne, joynit wt yis same body,— «qlk heir I leif to sleip and be 
bureit, gif so it pleis God, in ye sepulcher, qr my brethir, my sisteris, and baimes 
lyis, in yc tyll eaUit St Mirreinis lyll, at ye south heid of ye croce churche of Pas- 
lay ; trusting assuredly to rys at yt blissit resurrectione to lyf eternell. I desyre 
that yr be no Taine nor glorios seremonie vsit at my buriell, raying (crying) ho- 
nouris, hot yt my. corps be karayit to ye gn»re, be some of my most honorabill and 
uerittt friendis with my baimis, &c.** The whole of this testament is recorded in 
the Commissary Register of Glai^w, and the above is taken from the edition of 
Hamilton's work, printed from the original MS. by the Maitland Club, p. 75. ** St 
Minings lyll" is the fiir.&med sounding aisle of Paisley ; the burying-place of the 
Abercorn family ; and where several of the royal line of Stewart He in deep repose. 



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172 RENFREWSHIRE. 

in favour of the bailies, council, treasurer, and community, all 
right of superiority >>f the burgh, and feu*duties and casualties, 
formerly payable to them from the same, with the right of elect- 
ing magistrates, &c. to the effect that the said burgh, freedom, li- 
berties, and privileges of the same, may, in all time coming, be 
held of his highness, the IjotA Protector of the Commonwealth of 
England, Scotland, and Ireland, and dominions thereunto belong- 
ing, and his successors, superiors thereof," and in virtue of this con- 
tract a charter of resignation and confirmation was obtained from 
King Charles II., dated 8th December 1665, and sealed with the 
Great Seal, 2dth July 1666, and this may be considered as the 
Magna Charta of the rights and liberties of Paisley, as at present 
constituted. 

It may, in general^ be observed, that the burgh of Paisley, 
though in form a burgh of barony, is vested with privileges of a 
very extensive kind. Its burgesses have powers to elect annually 
a provost, baillies, and other office-bearers ; to receive resignation 
of burgage lands, and give seisin thereof; to hold fairs and week- 
ly markets ; to decide in civil cases to any extent ; to judge in ser- 
vices of heirs ; te issue acts of warding for debts constituted in 
their courts ; and, in short, to exercise every privilege of a royal 
burgh, including even that of electing a commissioner to serve in 
Parliament* 

The council of the burgh is composed of a provost, four bail- 
lies, a treasurer, and ten ordinary councillors, who are elected an* 
nually on the first Monday in November, according to the regula- 
tions laid down in the lately passed Municipal Bill for the burghs 
of Scotland. For a long time past it has been customary to re- 
elect the provost for a second year. The burgh clerk, chamber- 
lain, parish clerks, public teachers, &c. are likewise appointed 
yearly. 

The mode of electing the magistrates and council prior to the 
Burgh Reform Bill was peculiar to Paisley, and as a venerable relic 
of the olden times, when what are called self-election and the close 
system obtained, it may here be shortly detailed. 

On Monday preceding the day of election, the council, by ge- 
neral vote, nominated five of their number as a leet or list for trea« 
surer, and fourteen persons, who had formerly been in council, and 
six burgesses, who bad never been members of council, as a leet for 

* Tin 1770, the chief magistrate regularly voted at aU elections for the oounty in 
name of the hurgh. 



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PAISLEY. 173 

ordinary councillors. These fourteen and six individuals were se- 
lected by each of the councillors present naming one in rotation, 
but should the number of councillors be less than twenty, so as in 
that way to leave the list incompletCi the remainder were supplied 
by a general vote. 

On the day of election, the treasurer, five old, and three new 
councillors were chosen by general vote, and after administration 
of the oaths prescribed by law, they, accompanied by the burgh 
clerk, retired to an anti-chamber and chose thirteen of the former 
council, making in toto the number of twenty-two, of whom the 
council for the year to come was to be composed. 

The old and new council afterwards nominated three persons in 
succession to retire into an adjoining room, and select one of them 
to return, who was, of course, one of the leet for magistrates, and 
he in turn suggested another, who retired in his stead, and, if ap- 
proved by the council, which was usually the case, that person re- 
tired and from the three thus in the other apartment, the council 
again selected one, who also was in the leet for magistrates, and 
in a similar way one was voted out and another in, until the num- 
ber of nbe, composing the leet, was completed. These nine hav- 
ing giving their votes, sigillatim, again retired, and those remain- 
ing in the council-chambers having given their votes, the election 
decided in favour of those who appeared to have the majority.* 



* It appean from tbe following minute of the Court of Session, that in 1689 a re- 
gular election by the burgesses was ordered^ in consequence of a petition from them 
to that effect.—'* At Edinburgh the twentie- third day of September 1689, anent the 
petition given in to the Lords of his Majesty's privie counsell, be William Greenleesy 
writer in Edinburgh, as haying commission from the burgesses of the burgh of Pais- 
ley, Shewing, That where albeit by the uncontroTcrted pnviledge, and constant prac- 
tice of the said bursh, the burgesses thereof had yearly a free election and nomina- 
tion of their bailxies, counsel!, and toune thesaurer, nevertheless of late yeares 
(while under the yoak of arbitrary power) by reasone of the oaths that were impos- 
ed upon persones m publick trust, very unsufficient and malignant magistratts were 
sett over them, and these who have the present exercise of the magistracie there, were 
oontinowed by a letter from the late chancellor without any electio;ne, by which 
meanea tbe publick peace of that place has bein exceedingly disturbed, tbe godly 
ministers much discouraged, the scholes for learning decayed, and the said bur^ 
has bein thereby impoverished, and brought under great debt, and they are still lyke 
to labour under the same difficulties and inconveniences except such remed be allow- 
ed them as has bein to others in the like caise, and therefore humbly craving, that 
the sds lords would authorize, and impower the burgesses of tbe said burgh, to as- 
lemble and meet upon the thertie day of September instant, and friely by the poll and 
pTuralitie of votes, to nominat and elect persones of credit and integrity, and who 
by the ancient and laudable act of the said burgh are capable to be bailzies, counsel- 
lors, thesaurer thereof, and to appoynt Sir John Maxwell of Pollock, William 
Cunningham of Craigens, William Muir of Glanderston, and George Houstone of 
Johnstone, or any one or two of them^ to supervise the said election, as the said sup- 
plicatione bears : which being considered be the said Lords ofhis Mi^esties privie coun- 
sell, they heerby authorize and impower the burgesses of the burgh of Paslay, ex- 
cepting and secluding honorary burgcases, toune-officers, pensioners and headmen, to 



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174 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Holding^ Vdluatim^ and Revenues of ike Bhrffh. — Paisley was 
the seat of thb regality court, but had no cot^poratia rights, or se- 
parate municipal jurisdiction till 1488^ when it was erected into a 
burgh of barony. The burgh lands hold directly of the crown ; 
and their old valuation is upwards of L. 1000 Scots. The gross 
revenues of the burgh amounted in 1838 to L. 3843» I2s.' 7d., 
arising from rents of houses and knds, dues olF flesh«market and 
river, casualties of burgage entries, church seats^ and other items* 
The estimated value of the whcrfe of the town's property is about 
L. 50,000 ; but after deducting debts and other drawbacks, the 
real worth of the corporation property will be reduced to about 
L. 20,000. 

Privileges of the Magistracy. — The magistrates are or offijcio 
justices of peace for the county ; and the provost holds in addition 
the honourable office of deputy-lieutenant The number of resi- 
dent justices of peace in or near the town, is at present 42, — an 
increase of 40 within the last twenty years. 

Representation. — Paisley returns one member to Parliament. 
The number of qualified voters of L. 10 and upwards is 1510. All 
of these reside within the town and Abbey parishes ; and the Ab- 
bey in addition contains about 300 qualified voters for a county 
member. Since the passing of the Reform Bill in 1830, Paisley 
has had not fewer than four representatives, including the present 
member. These are. Sir John Maxwell, Bart, of Pollock ; Sir 
Daniel Sandford, Professor of Greek in the University of Glas- 
gow ; Captain A. G. Speirs of Culcreuch ; and the present mem- 
ber, Archibald Hastie,Esq. a native of the town, and a highly re» 
spectable merchant in London. 

Ancient mode of holding property in Burgh. — Lands, &c within 
burgh are held in feu of the magistrates, council, and commu- 
nity, and by an ancient and peculiar practice (the validity of which 
has been sanctioned by the Supreme Court,) investiture was given 
in burgh lands by a very simple process. The heir or other per- 

aawmble and meet upon the Uiertie day of September instant, and freelj by the poD 
and plurality of votea to nominat and elect persons of credit and integntie, and who 
by the ancient and laudable acts of the said bur^ are capable to be bailzies, coun* 
sellors and thesaurer thereof, and appoynt Sir John Maxwell of Pollock, William 
Cunningham of Craigens, William Muir of Glandertton, George Houstone of John- 
stone, and the Earle of Dundonnald, to be overseers of the said election, and appoints 
any two of them to be a quorum. Extracted by me (Signed) Gilb. Eliot, Clk." 

In pursuance of the above, a meeting was duly held on the dOth September 
1689, and a regular poll election of magistrates and councillors was made at the sight 
of William Cunningham of Craigens and George Houston of Johnston, two of the 
assessors named by the court. A minute to this effect is preserved in the charter-«hest 
of Paisley, of date October 7, 1689. 



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PAISLEY. 175 

ton holding a conveyance to lands^ and denring to be entered or 
invested in place of the ancestor or granter of the conTeyance, ap* 
peared personally or by attorney, and, in the usual manner, made 
symbolical resignation of his right in the hands of the ma^strates, 
for the purpose of obtaining what is termed ^ new and heritable 
booking/' This *< booking^' consists in the registry of the reu 
getta (including a description of the land, and a statement of the 
nature of the party's right in connexion with the person last ^ book- 
ed,") in the record or chartulary of the buigh, and an authenticat- 
ed copy or extract of registry, under the hands of the town-clerk, 
was held to complete the investiture, without charter, sasine, or any 
other written instrument. This practice, however, became expos- 
ed, in process of time, to great incixiveniences, and is now little 
resorted to, except in the transmission of property in the different 
churches. 

Begdlity and Sheriff QmrtB. — The reality of Paisley was an 
extei^ive jurisdiction, comprehending the domains of the monas- 
tery, not only in this county, but in the counties of Ayr, Dun- 
barton, and othens, and had been erected while ^e barony of 
Renfrew was yet a division of the sheriffdom of Lanark or Clydes- 
dale. The office of heritable sheriff was granted by Robert IIL 
to one of the family of Sempil in 1404, (the date at which the 
barony of Renfrew was erected into a sheriffdom,) and the office 
of heritable bailKe of the regality of Paisley was conferred by the 
Abbot on another of that family in 154A. Alexander Earl of Eglin. 
ton, purchased the offices from Hugh Lord Sempil in 1636, for 
L. 5000 Sterling* The Earl of Eglinton received a compensa- 
tion from Government for these offices, at the abolition of heri- 
table jurisdictions in 1749. One sheriff-depute has jurisdiction 
oyer the whole of Renfrewshire; birtin 1615, a second sheriff -sub- 
stitute was appointed for the lower ward of the county; and the 
sheriff-courts fbr that division are held at Greenock. 

TVwufirenee (fthe Sheriff'-Omrts from Benfrew to Paisley. — 
This important point, long a matter of uncertainty, has been settled 
by an index to certain deeds recorded in die Sheriff-court, to which 
there is this prefix : — *^ Ane minut book of all bonds, obligations, 
assignations, translations, tacks, contracts, renmiciations, and others, 
registrat in ye sheriff-court books of Renfrew, and regality books 
to Pabley, since the 19th August 1685. James M^Alpie, clerk." 
There is a substitution subscribed at <^ Rosdow, 13th May 1694,'' 
by James Crawford sheriff-depute of Renfrew, to James M^Alpie, 



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176 RENFREWSHIRE. 

to hold courU» and determine in all matters relating to the excise 
within the same shire. The growing population of Paisley, how- 
eTer, required a more extensive innovation, which was nothing 
short of the complete removal of the courts from Renfrew to Pais- 
ley; and in the same ^^minut-book," there is the following en- 
try: — ^* Paisley, 6th November 1705. The qlk dayane warrand 
was produced, granted be Alexr. Earl of Eglintone, shreff princll 
of Renfrew, for transporting the weekly courts from the buiigh 
of Renfrew to the toune of Paisley; and after the same was 
publickly read and published, was ordered to be recorded. The 
qlk day, James M^Alpie produced ane commission by John 
Richardson, sheriff-clerk, in his frivirs, for officiating during his 
pleasur." * Paisley has continued ever since to be the seat of the 
sheriff-courts. The meetings of Quarter Sessions, Commissioners 
of Supply and Freeholders, are still held at Renfrew ; but most of 
the adjourned meetings even of these courts are held at Paisley. 
The records of the Sheriff and Regality courts are extant from the 
year 1689. 

Ancient Charters — Royal School — Among a great number of 
charters and other ancient documents in the charter-chest of the 
burgh the following may be noticed. 

*^ Charter of confirmation," datedat Linlithgow on 5th April 1396, 
by King Robert III., whereby he, ^' for the weli&re of his own soul, 
and the souls of his ancestors and successors. Kings and Stewarts 
of Scotland," gives and confirms ^^ to God and the blessed Virgin 
Mary, and to the blessed James the Apostle, and St Mirren the 
Confessor, also to the abbot and monks of Paisley, now and to 
come, all and whole their lands, rents, and possession in our barony 
of Renfrew, situated within the county of Lanark. Also all their 
lands, rents, and possessions in our barony of Kyle Stewart, lying 
within the shire of Ayr, and their five merk lands of Moll and 
Huntlaw, and the lands of Hassyden, within the shire of Roxbui^h, 
and their lands of Orde, within the shire of Peebles, into one en- 
tire and free barony, and in pure and perpetual regality," to be 
held, ^* by the said monks and their successors for ever, of (is and 
our heirs, with power of holding courts, infang theiff and outfang 
theiff," &c but " reserving the four pleas of the Crown." All 
other proprietors of regalities are prohibited from interfering with 

* Introduction to '• Certain Curious Poems, principaUy from the pen of James 
M<Ali»e, Paisley, 1828/* ^( as quoted by Mackie in his Historical Description of the 
Abbey and Town of Paisley,** p. 153. 



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PAISLEY, 177 

tbe jurisdiction of the grantees. The return required for the grant 
is the prayers of the monks. 

Charter by King James IL dated at Edinburgh, on 13th Ja- 
nuary 1451, by Mrhich he ratifies the charter of King Robert III., 
and the grant of the lands therein described, and farther confirms 
certain letters of confirmation *^ made and granted by the late Mal- 
colm and Malcolm Earls of Lennox, to God, the blessed St Mir- 
ren, and the abbot and convent ^of the monastery of Paisley,*' of 
the lands of Kilpatrick, and other lands in the earldom of Lennox, 
within the county of Dumbarton, and erects the whole into one ba- 
rony and regality. This grant confers the four pleas of the crown, 
which King Robert had reserved, but retains the right to the 
prayers in behalf of the grantor and bis successors. 

Charter dated " at Halierude House," 3d January 1576, by 
King James VL, with the consent of James Earl of Morton, Lord 
Dalkeith, Regent, and the Lords of the Privy- Council, whereby 
he, upon the narrative of the good conduct of his subjects, and 
particularly of the burgh of Paisley, and because it became him to 
provide for the erection of a school in the burgh, ** for the initi- 
ation of youth in learning and good morals, not only that they 
might be useful in the service of God, but in the service of the 
burgh,** grants and conveys to the bailies and councillors, and 
community of Paisley and their successors, ^* all and whole the al- 
tarages of the chapels, the lands and manse after-mentioned, farms, 
annual rents, profits, and duties of the same, pittances, obit silver 
and common duties under specified, lying in the burgh, parish, and 
liberty of Paisley, viz. the altarage of St Mirren and Columba, 
the altarage of St Ninian, the altarage of the Virgin Mary, the 
altarage of St Nicholas, altarages of St Peter, St Catherine, and St 
Anne, the chapel of St Rock, and the seven roods of land or there- 
by of the said chapel belonging to the same, together with the 
other pittances of obit silver or common, which formerly the 
monks of Paisley were in use to levy and receive, with power to 
the baillies, council, and community, and their successors, and their 
collectors to receive the subjects, conveyed in the same way as any 
prebendiarys or chaplains could formerly, for the repair and sup- 
port of a grammar-school, and support of a master or preceptor, 
for the instruction and erudition of youth of the burgh and neigh- 
bourhood." In terms of the grant, forty merks annually are to be 
paid to four poor boys, natives of the bui^h, remaining in the 
school during the space of five years, and on expiry of that term. 



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178 RENFREWSHIRE. 

and removal of these boys, others af« to be put in their place, by 
the baillies and council, and the same payment made. The sub- 
jects conveyed and confirmed are erected into one body (coipus,) 
to be called '^ the King's Foundation of the Grammar School of 
Paisley." (^ Fundationem nostram scolae grammaticalis de Paisley 
nuncupandam.") Among the witnesses to this charter appears 
^^ our familiar councillor Mr Greoi^ Buquhanane, pensioner of 
Corsraguel, keeper of our privy seal" 

B4nfal visits to PaUky.—^^ 8tfa July 1597. The quhilk day the 
said Baillies and Gouncell understanding perfytli, that the queene's 
M. is to be shortlie in the place of Paslay, and in respect thereofy 
for decoratioun of the kirk and portis of the said burgh, in sic sort 
as may be gudlie done for the present, they haf concluded, that 
thare be ane pyntour sent for to Glasgow, for drawing of sum 
drauchts in the kirk, as salbe thocht maist necessar for the pre- 
sent : Secundlie, that ane wricht be concludit wt for bigging and 
mending and repairing of the portis of the said hurgh.^ It is to 
be supposed that this visit of the Royal consort of James cost the 
town more money in the way of " pintours" and " wrichts,*' to say 
nothing of entertainments, than the funds could well afford, for 
we find that when, in 1617, the King himself on his return from 
England to visit his ancient kingdom, came to the same ^^ place of 
Paslay," no preparations are made by the council for his welcome 
to the burgh, and there remains no proof that James ever crossed 
the Cart, or passed through the brig port Tradition says, that 
he was petitioned not to come nearer than ^^ the place," inasmuch 
as the town could not entertain him so sumptuously as might be fit- 
ting. H^ did come to the mansion of the ** Noble Abercom,*' 
where, in the great hall, ^^ ane oratioun" was addressed to him in 
name of the community and inhabitants of Paisley and its neigh- 
bourhood, by " a prettie boy of nine years of age, the son of Sir 
James Semple of Beltrees, at that time sheriff of the county." — 
The '^address" is printed in ^' the Muse's Welcome;" a well known 
collection of similar '^ oratiounes" and poems, commemorative of 
the King's visit at this time, '^ digested according to the order of 
His Majestie's progresse," by J. A« (John Adamson.) The ad- 
dress is also inserted in the Paisley Magazine, p. 577. It is in- 
genious, but it will scarcely bear to be tried by -modem usages.* 

* The << little boy** swears by <« the Black Book of Paisley** <' that his Majesty is most 
dearly weteome ;*' and immediately adds these inimitable lines : 

*^ Thus have I said, Sir, and thus have 1 sworne. 
Performance tak from noble Abercome !** 
llie '* grand schoolmaster*' is then compared to « Pluebus,** *< that eye by which 



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PAISLEY. 179 

The author in all probability was Sir James Semple, who belong* 
ed to a family long known by a sort of hereditary love of the muses, 
and who has richly deserved the respect and gratitude of every 
Scotsman as the friend of Andrew Melville, in obtaining his libera- 
tion from the tower, and afterwards in vindicating his memory.* 
The last representative of this family died about forty years ago, at 
a very venerable agc-f" 

On November 8^ 1666, the council " concludit," that " in re- 
spect the Erie of Rothes, His Majesties commissioner, is to be in 
the Abbey of Fasleye this night, that therefore he shall be invit* 
ed to have the curtiesie of the town from the baillies and council ; 
and for effectuating yrof they have appointed John Ewingto go to 
Glasgow and bring four punds of raisins, ane pund of confected 
cannell, ane pund of confected almonds, ane of coriander, ane of 
earvie, ane of anneisse, ane of roughe almondes, and half ane pund 
of cordesidron, with nine elnes of silver ribbons/' 

In 1822, when King George IV. visited Scotland, the magis- 
trates of Paisley waited on him at Holyroodhouse with a loyal and 
dutiful address, in which a kind invitation was given to His Ma- 
jesty to visit this ^^ the place of his fathers' sepulchres." 

Rebellians 17 15 and 1745. — On both of these occasions the 
inhabitants of Paisley were distinguished for their loyalty. On 
August 5, 1715, the conunon council of the burgh, ^< taking into 
consideration the imminent danger that the country was exposed 
to by reason of the Pretender^s attempting to land in the kingdom 
of Scotland," appointed a regular nightly guard of twenty men, 
and ^^ ordained the haill inhabitants to have all their arms in 
readiness." Two pairs of coburs were also ordered to be pur- 
chased for the use of the town, << and to have the town's arms put 

the world aeeth." Clnia and Leucothoe appear in fabulous mythology, as the two 
wives of Phoebus ; and the " prettie boy** asks his Majesty : " Are not wee then, Sir, 
of Scotland your M. own old kindlie Clytia ? Are not yoa Sir our Phoebus, oomming 
from the east with glorious displayed beams, to embrace us in the mouth of the ocean ? 
md is not this very place now, Sir, yon westerroost period ? Erffo, Sir, your kindliest 
Clytia ?** The litUe fellow becomes most aaatomioally eloquent, wb«i he reooUects 
that he is spouting *^ in the place of Paisley." " Your Clytia, Sir, is of many goodlie 
flMmbers*** **• You M . hath passed already her head, neck and armes, you greater townee 
and cities, hut tUl now you never came to her heart ! Why ? because in this very pap 
rish, is that ancient seat of WiUiam Walbu, that worthie warrier, to whome (under 
God) we owe that you ar'oura, and Britaine yours !** We need scarcely add, that Leu- 
cothoe ** that fiiirest ladye" was *' his Most glorious England, most worthye of all love," 
ohI that when James «* went first," to her '^ he went Wl himselfe, busked with his 
owne beams, and becked with the best of his Clytia I" We do not read of his Ma- 
je8tie*s reply. We suspect that all his " grammarie'* and all his *•* modesty*' together 
were nonplussed by the unexpected eloquent address of the ^^ prettie boy.** 

• M*Crie*s Life of Melville, VoL iL page 330, 468, &c. 

f See New Statistical Account of I^ochwinnoch, p. 88, &c 



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180 RENFREWSHIRE. 

thereon/' On September 20th, in consequence of a letter from 
the Duke of Argyle, the town agreed to send to Stirling ^< as many 
armed men as possible," and they ordered twenty guns to be bought 
at Glasgow." They agreed to support ^^ *20 men" at 4s. Sterling 
weekly, and "a barrel of powder and as many balls as necessary" 
are sent with the men. Burgesses are found to volunteer on this 
service. 

On December 28, 1745, ^^the baillies and council being in- 
famed, that a great body of armed men under the command of a 
persone who styles himself Prince Regent of the Kingdome, have 
come unto the city of Glasgow, and made sundry demands upon 
the inhabitants of the said city," — ** and being also informed that 
a party of the said army are intending to come to this place ; and 
being afraid that they may make demands thereon in like manner," 
they appoint a certain number to ^^ meet and treat with the said 
partys, and make such agreement with them as they can in the 
best and easiest manner possible for the safety of the place and 
inhabitants ; and the town's credit is pledged in the meantime, so as 
to prevent the harm that might happen if the party should levy 
from the particular inhabitants." Ne&t day the Pretender by his 
secretary (Murray of Broughton,) sent a summons to the magis- 
trates to repair to the secretary's office. An imposition of Lb500 
Sterling is laid upon the ^^ haill inhabitants," and on January 3, 
1746, a receipt is granted under the hand and seal of Charles for 
this sum. The sum originally demanded was L.1000, but the 
magistrates by good management procured its mitigation to L.500. 
The sum was borrowed m name of the town from different persons 
in the place as they could furnish it, and the council agree to *^ re- 
lieve the thesaurer so soon as a proper hand can be found to advance 
the whole sum" upon the town's security. This " proper hand" 
was soon found in the person of <^ Colonel William Macdowall of 
Castlesemple," to whom in return a bond for L.500 was granted. * 

The colours used by the "volunteers" in 1716 and 1745, are 
still preserved among the town's archives, and have been occasion- 
ally displayed on tlye battlements of " the castle," on days of public 
rejoicing. 

In 1753, an action was raised by the town of Paisley against John 
Murray of Broughton, for repetition of the Lb500 levied in 1745, 

* Copies of the '* summooses" by the Pretender, and other documents of the time, 
are to be seen in the charter-chest of the town of Paisley of date 8tb, and 20th, De- 
cember 1746, 2d, 8d, and lOth January 1746. 



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PAISLEY. 181 

on the ground that the defender was a principal actor in the extor- 
tion of the money. The defender was assoilzied from this claim, 
28th July 1759, and the pursuers were also unsuccessful in an 
appeal to the House of Lords in 1760. A memorial was after- 
wards presented to the Lords of the Treasury for reliei^ on the 
ground that the town had been subjected to the exaction, on account 
of their loyalty ; but this application was not successful. 

Illustrations of Ancient Manners^ — The records or minute books 
of the Town Council, which are, with few exceptions, entire from 
the year 1594^ bear distinct references to others of more ancient 
date now lost, * and afford many curious and minute illuBtiatioo» 
of the usages of other times, and of the powers eixerdsed by the 
council of passing acts for the govennaent of the inhabitants, and 
the general police of the eomiBunity. 

1580, July 1 L— 'A person of the name of Wilson is tried for 
stealing a pair of breeches. The council banish him from the 
county with certification that, if he shall return, and ^^ be guilty of 
Ae like again, he shall be content to be punished to the deady cmd 
without one assise J* 

1594, January 21. — An act is passed ** anent sic persones that 
wilfuUie remains frae the kirke," or apprehendit going playing, 
passing to taverns, or selling meat or drink, or siclike;" and they 
are to be punished with a fine of L.1, toties qmties ; or ^< holden in 
the stocks twenty-four hours." A baillie, the town-clerk, an elder, and 
proper officers are appointed to parade the streets and pick up 
such offenders. The fines are to be applied '^ ad pio$ usus.** 

1597, July 8. — ^* All uncouth beggars are to be expellif' from 
the burgh ; and two men are appointed to see this done, with 
Lbl, 10s. Scots of weekly payment, if they show diligence." 

1602, January. — More regular attendance on church on Sab- 
bath enforced; as also ^< attendance on morning and evenmg 
prayers on week days." 

16. — ^^ The east and west ports to be diligently kept by a pro- 
per person, having a su)ord and a Jedburgh staffi^ 

1603, February 10. — Merchants ^< are ordered" to shut their 
doors every Tuesday during prayers, and to attend the kirk for 
hearing the word under the pain of 86. Scots*! 

* It appean by an entry in ooimcil minutes of 8th April 1606, that records of a 
Dmeh older date were then eitant ; a list ot not less than six volumes being inserted, 
from A. D. 1507, 1594. 

t The old motto of Paisley is similar to that of Gku^ow. " Let Paisley flourish 
through the preaching of thy word.** This is the inscription on the silver cups used 



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182 RENFREWSHIRE. 

October 11. — ^^ Bauners and swearers" are to be fined twelve 
pennies for each offence. 

^^ Scolders and flyters'' are to be put in ihejugs^ and fined 20s, 
<^ giving the lye/' is fined 40s. ^^ A dry cuffj' is valued at <^ five 
punds." " A eammitter ofhluid^^ brings " 40 punds.'- 

1606, May 18. — Three vagabonds are ordered to be *< carted 
through the street and the cart ;" with certification that if they re* 
turn, they shall be ^< Kourgedandbumt^'* i. e. we presume, brand- 
ed on the cheek. 

1606, August 1. — Andrew (Knox,) Bishop of the Des, becomes 
security for ^^ the Laird of Coil's servant," who not compearing, 
^^ the baillies decern against the bishop with 6s. 8d. expenses*" 

September 16. — ^^ Yard breaking" is thus punished, " five punds 
fine; setting in the stocks from 10 to 12; and thereafter to be 
scourged by the parents to the effusion of their blood.** 

1607, January 29. — An act was passed against any person set- 
ting a house to a stranger, till they advertise the baillies and CQun-* 
cil, and have their liberty. 

1608, 24 June. — It was statuted and ordained, that the whole 
buigesses and inhabitants should give ^^ their musters sufficiently 
armed with jak, steel bonnet, plet sleeves, speir or halbert; and 
ilk person to give his oath that the same was their own proper 
armour, under the pain of ten punds." 

1622, June 13. — Two women accuse one another of mutual 
scolding and ^< cuffing;" the one is fined 40s. the other is banish- 
ed the burgh, under certification of ^^ scourging," and '^ the 
joggs" if she returned. 

In 1623. — The baiUies, with three or four of the council, were 
appointed to ride to Glasgow, and speak to the provost and bail- 
lies thereof, *^ anent the troubling the merchants of this burgh, in 
using of their calling, and trade, and merchandize." 

1625, January 25. — ^^ Janet Cochran, Lady Jameson," is ba- 
nished town by the baillies; and any one found giving her ^' meat 
or drink," is to be fined 40s. 

1642, 24 January. — <^ No houses to be let to persons excom- 
municated; and none to entertain them in their houses, under a 
pain of ten punds." 

1648. — Sermon appointed on Friday, " being the market-day," 

at dominunion in St George's and the High Churches. The date of the one is 1744» 
and oftbe other 1768. 



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PAISLEY. 183 

all to go << to the kirk/' and ** no business te be done" during 
time of sermon. 

16 January.—** No women to keep school" in the town ; and 
none of them ** to receive men children.'* 

1653) March 28. — Isobel Greenlees is appointed to stand two 

hours in the jugs ; and to pay a fine of 40s. for ** cursing the baillie." 

The following extract will shew that the burgesses at this pe*- 

riod were not inattentive to the duty of asserting their rights and 

privileges : — 

1655, March 9. — '* John Wilson, weaver, and his wife, having 
asked and obtained liberty of Lady Cochran, or the Master of 
Cochran, to bleach cloth on the green, under the chambers," (of 
the Abbey mansion-house,) he is conveined before the baillies, and 
having acknowledged he had liberty to set up a knocking-stane, 
which the lady or master had driven down, (and thus established 
the right of the Dundonald family,) he was put in jail till his wife 
drove down the stane : goe and disclaim the libertie sought; and 
pay a fine of 5 punds." 

April 9. — The whole council go to the " green," and make a 

'* civU interruption'* of the claims of her ladyship and the master. 

18th July 1659. — ^^ The quhilk day the two present baillies, 

William Greenlees, and John Park, old baillies, are appointed to 

buy a drum for the use of the town.*' 

April 9, 1660. — ** Report John Park, baillie, that as he was 
-appointed, he went to Edinburgh and sought all the booths where 
there is any velvet, and found nane three piled, and that the two 
piled was so bad and thin, that he could not buy it for a mort- 
cloth." 

Idth September 1660. — ** This day John Kelso has produced 
before the other baillies and counsell, the towns twa pair of colours, 
that was taken away by these who were called Tories, and were re* 
deemed from some of them by Robert Semple, merchant burgess 
of Glasgow, and the sum given therefor formerly paid to the said 
Robert Semple, by the said baillies, by allowance of the council, 
and is now put in the common chest." 

1660, December 22. — ** The whilk day the baillies and coun- 
sell foresaid, have concluded that there sail be four dozen of 
trenchours, and ane dozen of new cups sent to Sir John Gilmour, 
and Sir John Fleshour, the King^s Advocate, to move them to con- 
tinue the town's friends." 

RENFREW. N 



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184 RENFREWSHIRE. 

1664, August ISth — << This day tbe baillies and counciU having 
considered, < ane supplicatioune of the two officers and a drum^ 
mer, for five punds of fee to ilk ane of them, co&fomi to former 
use and wont/ they find that it is but ane late practice, and was 
only granted to them in the English time^ when diey had mdkle 
pains and little gains; and, therefore, ordains diem to have the 
same fee this year, but not hereafter/ " 

October la— ^< The whilk day it is statute be the baillies^ 
and council, that whatsoever person hereafter, burgess or inhabitant, 
liable in payment of any of the town's goods, and shifting and de* 
laying to do the same, shall have the key of the tolbooth sent to 
them by the treasurer, for entering inward, and remaining there- 
in, ay and while they pay that which they shall be liable unto^ 
and that within the space of twenty-four hours after the sending 
to them of the said key ; that then and in that case, the officers, a^ 
they shall answer upon their peril, shall, upon the first sight oi 
them, put that person in ward, therein to remain in dose ward 
ay and until they satisfy the debt." 

1667, October 17. — << Whilk day the baillies and council 
.having taken to their consideration the incivility and indiscreet 
carriage of Mr Hugh Montgomerie, Sheriff-depute of Renfrew, 
in permitting the oorpse of ane Janet Finnie, ane suspect witch, 
imprisoned by him in this jail and deceased therein, to be unhur- 
ried these fyve days bygone, or thereby, and refiising absolutely 
to cause bury her, notwithstanding both his duty and their requir- 
ing of him, so that they are necessitated to cause bury her, have 
therefore determmed that he shall be deprived of certaine favours 
he has from them, especially that he and his sons shall have no 
liberty from henceforth to sit in any of the town's seats in the 
church, and for these reasons, have ordained their ofikers to hold 
•them out ot both their seats." 

1680, March 16. — '^ The council allowes three dozen trenchors 
to be sent to Mr Rorrie M'Kenzie, in token of his kyndness and 
pains shewn to this towne, in several business bygone," and appoints 
the thesaurer to pay for them. 

L June 168a—'' Sederunt John Snodgrass, beiUie ; Robert 
Forke, &c 

'' Who, after consideration of ane endyctmentgiven to the present 
baillies and councill of this burgh, as representing the community 
and burgh, to compear before the Lords of Justiciary, at Glasgow, 
the J 2th and Idth of June instant, for allot resetting of James 



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PAISLEY. IBS 

Sproull, Hew Fulton, Christopher Strang, indews (i. e. indwellers) 
in this burgh, efter Bodthil Bridge, and suffering and permitting 
them to have the liberty and privilege of his Majesty's free liegea 
sensyne within this burgh, and eilet aiding, abetting them in meate, 
drink, armour and amonition, in oianner at length exst in the said 
endyctment. And it being asked whether it sould be ane towne's 
business and towne's purse to bear and sustaine the expenses, they 
all in one voice have concludit, and ordainit, that whatever expences, 
tmpnsoiiBiettt, or fine, the baillies or any of the counsell sail hap* 
pen to sustain through the said endyctment, during their abode in 
Glasgow for the said cause, that the samen shall be paid furth of 
the towne's readiest rents and duties : And have ordainit the trea- 
surer to advance money to the baillies and councill for defraying 
their expences during their abode at Glasgow, and their expences 
of imprisonment and fyning, if any sail happen to be. And the 
treasurer to give in ane particular account of his disbursenoent, 
which shall be answered to him on demand, after their return from 
Glasgow. And for the effect foresaid, they have appointed William 
Fyfe, and the clerk, to go to Glasgow, and make moyan with the 
bishop to be the towne's friend before the day of compearance, and 
to pay the horse hire and expences they sail happen to deburse 
and pay in said affair, and their pains therein.'' 

8 June 1683. — ^* Sederunt, &c., who have concludit that there 
be ane precept drawn upon the thesur for advancing to the baillies 
and counsell of the soum of two hundred punds Scots money, and 
have appoint four geanzies of gold to be taken out of the common 
kist, partly for defraine the expences at Glasgow, employing advo- 
cates, and partly for complimenting the clerk of the circuit court, 
and making of necessarie moyan therewith, in order to bring off- 
and assolysie the town for the indytment given them, for the al- 
ibied conversing with, aiding, and abaiting the rebells at Bodwel 
Bridge." 

22 March 1697. — ^^ The same day the baillies and counoell, 
taking to their consideration that the commissioners for tryal of the 
witches, i^ to sit at Pasley, swa that, for decofement of the town, 
they think it convenient that the Tolbuith be repared, and for 
that effect they appoint the seats within the bar to be repaired^ 
and a heigh table made for the judges, against their coming, and 
other things as shall be thought convenient Then they thought 
it fitt to buy a cloth, with a silk fringe, to be laid on before the 
haiUias ilk Sabath-day in the kirk seat" 



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186 RENFREWSHIRE. 

7 August 1705. — " The said day they have by plurality of votes 
allowed to Mr George Elen, master of the grammar school, and 
Mr James Alexander, Doctor, twenty pounds Scots, towards the 
defraying of the expenses of their acting of BeUum Grammaticale^ 
and also for their furder encouragement, promise to erect ane theatre 
on yr own experice." 

Police Establishment. — It is not necessary to trace the mode of 
management adopted by the rulers of this ancient burgh, with re- 
gard to police, farther back than ) 695. At that period the popu- 
lation of the town and Abbey parish amounted to 4375 persons, 
of which number there were in the burgh about 2200. In the 
year 1806, when the police act was obtained, the population 
was 35,000, and now, in 1837, it appears that there are in the 
town and parish about 60,000, and within the range of the police, 
which extends one English mile in every quarter and direction, be- 
yond the marches or boundaries of the burgh or burgh lands, and 
territories " so called or known," — 50,000. 

Previous to the union of Scotland and England in 1707, it ap- 
pears from the records of the burgh, and the peculiarity t)f some of 
its usages, that the inhabitants wrere more regulated by the autho- 
rity of the magistrates and council, and by the pastors of the pa- 
rish, and their consistory or session, than by the King and Parlia- 
ment; and that the municipal and moral regulations were varied 
according to the circumstances in which they were placed. Before 
this period, many of the great heritors of the county had their win- 
ter residences in Paisley. The Abbey with its numerous ecclesi- 
astics, during the continuance of the Popish system, and even aflter 
its erection into a temporal lordship, attracted the gentlemen of 
the county to reside a part of the year in the town or its vicinity. 
About the beginning of last century, there happened to be a con- 
siderable number of weavers- in the place, distinguished for inge- 
nuity and skill in their several departments. After the union, a 
connexion with our southern neighbours, induced some of the in- 
habitants to commence linen cloth for sale. They soon after em- 
ployed a number of their females to spin cotton yarn ; of which 
they made Bengals, or imitation of muslins. They likewise com- 
menced a man uikcture of handkerchiefs; afterwards of lawns; and 
at a later period of linen gauzes. The increase of population and 
of manufactures was accompanied with the increase of crimes and 
irregularities; and hence the origin of the toum-'guard. This 
branch of police was at first had recourse to occasionally, when it 



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PAISLEY. 187 

was deemed necessary, but afterwards it became permanent This 
guard, of which the magistrates had the sole direction, consisted of 
thirteen householders, warned in rotation, who made choice of their 
own captain, and attended from ten at night to five or six in the 
morning. The captain reported to the sitting-magistrate the oc« 
currences of the night, and on public occasions, such, as fairs, and 
sometimes for a whole year, the number was increased to eighteen.. 
This system of police answered the purpose tolerably well for many 
'years; but as the town increased in population, in wealth, and in 
vice, it was found at last to be very defective. The wealthy in- 
habitants, in place of attending personally, paid porters, or menial 
servants, to act as substitutes. On some occasions, in place of sup- 
pressing riotous conduct, it was encouraged, or kt least not report- 
ed to the magistrates, and they frequently did not perambulate the: 
streets at all. Many of the councillors and magistrates, with other 
inhabitants, being of opinion that a police bill was necessary for 
the safety and comfort of the inhabitants, the burgesses were ap- 
plied to for a meeting to take the proposed measure into conside- 
ration. At this period there was no fund for lighting the town, 
and it was customary for the corporation, to furnish sixty or seventy 
lamps during a few months in winter. This mode of lighting only, 
tended to make the darkness more visible. Foot-pavements, be- 
sides, were become absolutely necessary, and regular police officers 
were imperiously required for the protection of property. Meet-, 
ings of magistrates, council, and inhabitants were repeatedly held,, 
and, after much deliberation and discussion, a bill for a police, 
establishment was framed ; carried without opposition through both 
Houses-; and received the Royal assent in 1806. 

The police establishment, as at first constituted, consists of a 
master of police, two Serjeants, four corporals, and twelve night watch- 
men ; but they may be augmented as the funds may allow. There are. 
at present (Jan. 1837,) five corporals, and fourteen watchmen. 

The burgh is divided into nine districts or wards, and two com- 
missioners are chosen for each ward, by such householders as pay 
Xf 5 or upwards of yearly rent. The magistrates are commis- 
sioners by office, and have the general superintendence of the 
establishment The suburbs are divided into six wards, with one 
commissioner to each ; the sheriff-substitute being always a com- 
missioner ex officio. The powers and duties of the commissioners 
and officers are the s^me as in other establishments of the kind. 



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188 RENFREWSHIRE. 

This establishment comprises at present a superintendent, two Ser- 
jeants, one corporal, and four watchmen. 

This system of police has been of high importance to the good 
government and comfort of the inhabitants. At its commence- 
ment, there were many violent struggles between the more irre- 
gular part of the community and the police officers; but fines 
and imprisonments made them more submissive to the laws. 
When we take into view the small number of police officers hither- 
to employed, to perform duty both day and night, and the great 
population, consisting chiefly of mechanics and labourers, we must 
acknowledge, that the estaUishment is justly entitled to high ap- 
probation. 

A good many years previous to the passing of the police bill 
an establishment of special constables was organized in this place, 
with a view to preserve the peace of the community, and to pro- 
mote good order, in opposition to the attempts of the disaffected and 
seditious, who aimed at nothing short of the destruction of all law, 
government, and religion. The plan was reviewed and approved of 
by William Macdowall, Esq. of Garthland, the Lord Lieutenant 
of the county, and by the sheriff and other magistrates ; and was 
adopted to a considerable extent, and with due effect The es- 
tablishment was organized in 1794 or 1795, a short period before 
the volunteering system commenced. After that event, this insti- 
tution still subsisted ; but the parade, the dress, and the music of 
the military associations threw the peace officers into the bade 
ground* However, after it was found from experience, that the 
constables were the only efficient body that could effectually com- 
mand peace without military execution, it vras again had recourse 
to. Regulations were published by the magistrates of the place, 
and the sheriff-substitute of the county, — accompanied with a state- 
ment of the powers vested in constables by the laws of their country. 

Since that time the establishment has been kept up at a trifling 
expense. The furnishing each constable with a baton, as a badge 
of office, was all the expense incurred. The body consists of re- 
q)ectable citizens, scattered through the whole extent of the place. 
Of course, they are generally acquainted with their neighbours, 
and consequently, in case of any seditious movement or public dis- 
turbance the leaders can hardly escape detection. Another fa- 
vourable circumstance is, that this body of men may be brought to 
act with the utmost promptitude. The town and suburbs are divid- 
ed into four wards, according to the number of parishes. Each 



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PAISLEY. 1B9 

ward has a chief constable empowered to command, as if he were 
a military officer. There is likewise a second in command, to aid 
the head constable with his advice, and to command in his absence. 
Each ward is divided into eight or more districts, according to the 
extent and population. The captain or head of each district keeps 
a roll of his men, and his duty is to warn them to attend the ge- 
neral rendezvous, when notified to him by his commander. The 
number enrolled in the four parishes exceeds 500. The whole 
may be collected in less than one hour, ready to disperse any mob 
or riot that may take place, on receiving orders from the magis- 
trates in the town, or the Sheriff or Justices in the suburbs; 
without which they are not empowered to act This effective 
and honourable body of men has been employed on various occa- 
sioDS to command and preserve the peace ; and always with com- 
plete success. What adds to the value of this institution, is, that 
it is completely constitutional There are no weapons of war 
brought into operation. There is no compulsion as to the service, 
and little or no expense is incurred. The disorderly and evil-in- 
tentioned, conscious that they are in danger of being discovered, 
if any attempt is made to disturb the public peace, are thus kept 
b check, and regularity and peaceable conduct have thus been pre- 
served in very critical times. The principle of the establishment 
daims an antiquity as hi^ as the days of Alfred the Grreat ; and 
the plan itself is certainly deserving of imitation in every populous 
town and district of the country. 

Progress of crime. — In the following table is exhibited a view 
of the state and progress of crimes, &c as judged by the magis* 
trates, firom the period when the police establishment began down 
to 1818, and for the last five years. The melancholy progress 
of crime, particularly of late years, may be judged of from this 
table ; a progress for which the rapid increase of population will 
not wholly account 

1807 1606 1809 1810 1811 1812 1818 1814 1815 



JTersons conyicted ot 


218 


267 


144 


169 


134 


106 


94 


167 


113 


Ciiset of theft. 


4 


16 


16 


5 


11 


11 


9 


19 


25 


Persons conricted of 




















sirindling, 


2 


I 


2 


1 





2 


1 


1 





Do. for profimation 




















t>f SeblNithy 





19 


7 


5 











h 


8 


Do. of vending iMse 




















money. 





2 


3 


2 


6 


6 


4 


4 


8 


Caaet of house-break- 




















ing, . . 





1 








2 








3 


2 


Peraona convicte i of 




















reset of theft. 


























1 



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190 RENFREWSHIRE. 

1816 1817 1818 1881 1882 1883 1834 183& 



Cise of mnrdeTy 




















1« 


Robberies on streets 
















or vicinity of town, 




















1 4 


P)erB0O8 conyicted of 
















breaches of the pctuce, 


144 


146 


202 


704 


700 


607 


717 583 


Cases of theft. 


40 


40 


68 


817 


264 


275 


401 278 


Persons convicted of 
















swindling, 


2 


4 


11 


41 


14 


16 


45 12 


l>o. for profiuiation 
















ofStebbedi, 


10 


21 


27 


216 


192 


206 


252 172 


Do. of vending hose 
















money. 


7 


4 


3 


5 


8 


2 


6 7 


Cases of house-break- 
















ing, 


3 


U 


6. 


87 


87 


31 


29 40 


Persons convicted of 
















reset of theft. 


5 


2 


4 


23 


7 


8 


28 , 17 


Robberies on streets 
















or vicinity of town, 


3 


2 





48 


31 


88 


40 58 


Besides these, there 


is a 


class of minor offences, involving a 


contravention of the police act in some one or other of its clauses^ 


which has not been noticed 


in the above lists. 


The amount of 


these for the last five years 1 


lias been 


. as follows : 






1831 


1832 


1833 


1834 


\ 1835 





1088 1206 1052 776 598 

Public houses. — The following is an authentic list^of the num- 
ber of licenses issued for the town and Abbey parishes of Paisley, 
during the last eight years. The number has slightly risen dur- 
ing the given period, but when taken in reference to the increas-. 
ing population is very immaterial. 

Number of licences issued for the town, and Abbey parish of Paisley. 



October 1828, Burgh of Paisley, 


237 


1 ' New town and suburbs, 


- 


121 


Aij,^ Johnstone 
ADDey, . Thorn, El 


, Quarrelton, ' | 


' 




derslie, Dove- ► 


. 


57—178 


1. cotha]l,andNitshiU, > 




...• 








415 


May 1829, Burgh, 


274 


. 1883, Burgh, 


. 248 


Abbey, - 


196 


Abbey, 


. 180 




472 




487 


1880, Burgh, 


278 


1884, Burgh, 


257 


Abbey, - 


196 


Abbey, 


186 




469 




448 


1881, Burgh, 


217 


1885 Burgh, 


262 


Abbey, 


267 


Abbey, 


188 




484 




450 


1882, Burgh, 


223 






Abbey, 


170 
393 







In addition to the ordinary causes of intemperance which, alas ! 

* This was the case of a poor woman found in a close in the night, between a 
Sunday and Monday, with marks of serious injury on her head, which occasioned her 
death on the afternoon of the same day. The murderers were never discovered ; and 
it is possible the wounds may have been occasioned by a fiilL 



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PAISLEY. 191 

Gpemte here, as in other places, to a melancholy extent, there is one 
which has not been adverted to so frequently in this connexion as it 
ought ; the system of pawnbroking. About two years ago the at- 
tention of an official gentleman in the place was seriously called to 
tliis subject in making up some statistical returns ; and the result 
was really heart-rending. . He took the three leading establish- 
ments in town, and the weekly average showed the following issue 
of pawn-tickets ; in the first of these establishments, 4000 ; in the 
second, little short of 3000 ; and in the third about 2200. Now, 
appalling as at first sight this arithmetical summation appears, the 
misery does not rest here. By the pawnbroking act, when a broker 
advances any* sum beyond 10s. he is bound, under a penalty, to 
enter the transaction in a particular form ; and when the article 
pledged is sold, he is bound, should it realize more than the advance, 
to count and reckon with his customer, retaining only the original 
sum advanced, and the profit or ten per centage which the act al- 
lows him. So far there is no objection. But the case is widely dif- 
ferent when the advance is under 1 Os. Here there is no obligation on 
the broker to make any entry at all. He simply retains the article 
on which he has made the advance, and, should it not be redeemed 
within the statutory period, he is then entitled, without advertise- 
ment or any form of notice, either to sell the article or retain it 
for his own use; no matter what disproportion may exist betwixt 
its real value and the sum advanced. This, it is plain, is a positive 
premium on restricted advances ; and an establishment in Paisley did 
at one time, at least, make a point never to advance beyond the 
lesser sum ; and what with loss of tickets, mistake of dates, &c., 
their profit, we may presume, would not be thereby diminished. Very 
many cases have occurred where poor creatures, unable at the time 
to relieve some piece of furniture, or dress, pawned, it may be, by 
some foolish husband or wife, have lost all chance of reclaiming 
their property. A case illustrative of this may be noticed. A poor 
woman pawned a cloak or mantle ; the sum advanced was 6s. ; she 
lost the ticket, which was carried, (it is supposed, by the person who 
had stolen it,) to the office, and the mantle relieved, and afterwards 
sold to a clothesman in town for 2ds. Now suppose that the wo- 
man had kept hold of her ticket, but had not been able to redeem 
this mantle in time, this deficiency between the 6s. and the 238., 
would have found its way into the pocket of the pawnbroker. But 
there is an evil still more monstrous, and a most fearful encourager 
of dissipation. Suppose an advance of 6s. has been made, — and it 



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192 RENFREWSHIRE. 

IS Qomay tmcharitablo to suppose that sooae proportion of it at least 
has been spent in drink — a fiirther advance is then wanted, it may 
be for the same wretched purpose, and the following device is re- 
sorted to. There are in town a good many clothes people or 
brokers, as they are called, who traffic in every sort of second-band 
article. '1 hese persons have now got into the way of purchasing 
pawn-tickets, and cases have occurred in the Justice Court, where it 
turned out that tickets on which 6s. or 8s. bad been advanced, 
have been sold to these middlemen as low, as 6d. or Is. Now, 
keeping in view the original discrepancy between the value and the 
advance, the sacrifice is beyond calculation when this second 
transaction is closed. A woman in one of the parishes told the 
public prosecutors that she had an amazing quantity of such 
tickets, ^^ half a tea-chest full," was her expression, and that when 
her own shop required replenishing, she went to the pawnbroker's, 
as to a bonded warehouse, and got herself supplied ! Many in- 
stances are on record highly creditable to the feelings and honesty 
of pawnbrokers in the place ; but it is the system that is radically 
and thoroughly bad. Too easy a door is left open for the immedi- 
ate means of dissipation ; and if the system cannot be rooted out 
alt(^ether, it should at least be so far modified as to debar, and that 
under any circumstances, the pawning of bed-clothes, wearing ap- 
parel, and such like articles. It would be easy to show how rami- 
fied the operations of the system are, as affording a &cility to a 
weaver, for instance, to pawn articles coomiitted to his care for 
manufacturing purposes, and many other such cases. Pawnbroking, 
public-houses, and intemperance, are subjects which richly demand' 
the zeal and energy of the upright senator, in order to a direct 
and profitable interference .of the Legislature. 

Executions in Paisley. — Since the Union, there have been three 
public executions in Paisley. In 1765, Alexander Provan was 
hanged at the Gallowgreen for the murder of his wife, his right 
hand having been cut off prior to execution. In 1797, Thomas 
Potts was executed for housebreaking; and in October 1829, 
John Craig and James Brown were executed for housebreaking 
and robbery. 

On a general review of the police establishment, the following 
things appear to be desiderata in its constitution and plan of pro- 
cedure: — an effective union between the establishment of the 
buTjg^ and suburbs,* — a laiger number of officers, — and more 

* ThM ifoioa has, we are happy to say, been aoeompluhed siflce the above wa 
written, and we have no doubt that the advantages of it will soon b 2 manifect', (Janu- 
ary 1837.) 



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PAISLEY. 193 

frequent and hearty co-operation of the inhabitants at lai^ in 
carrying into effect the great practical design of the institutioa. 

Meetings of Courts, — The Sheriff court sits every Tuesday dur- 
ing session. The Sheriff Small Debt Court is held once a fortnight, 
on Thursdays. The Burgh Court is held every Monday and 
Friday. The Commissary Court sits on Thursdays. The 
Quarter SesMons are held at Renfrew? on the first Tuesday of 
March, May, and August, and last Tuesday of October. Justice 
Court for small debts is held at Paisley every Friday. Licensing 
meetings held at Renfi-ew, first Tuesday of May and last Tuesday of 
October. The town-council have three stated meetings, called 
*^ Head Courts," annually ; they meet for ordinary business gene- 
rally once a week, and oftener as required. Meetings of Commis- 
sioners of Police are held quarterly, an4i oftener when required. 

Antiquities^ Ancient Mansions^ 8fc, — Of these, by far the most 
interesting is the Abbey Church. But as it will be noticed under 
the head of Ecclesiastical History, we at present simply remark, 
that, in its immediate neighbourhood, stands the Mansion-House or 
Place of Paisley, an old building, at one time the residence of the 
Abercorn family, and at another of the Dundonald ; but now let 
out to various tenants. This tenement is the property of the Mar- 
quis of Abercorn. It is no way distinguished for its architecture. 

Crodiston or Cruickston Castle is a lofty but greatly shattered 
ruin, finely situated on a wooded slope, about three miles south- 
east from Paisley. The ancient proprietors of this castle and lordship 
were a £unily of Norman origin, sumamed De Croc, one of whom, 
Robert De Croc, was in the time of King Malcolm IV. a sub- 
scribing witness to the foundation charter of Paisley abbey. The 
castle and adjacent lands are now the property of Sir John Max- 
well of Pollock, Bart. Of the noble yew tree, which once grew 
near the castle, conspicuous for miles around, and noted for hav- 
in^oft afforded shade to Queen Mary and Lord Damley, ere love 
grew cold, not a vestige now remains.* 

The ancient tower of Stewarts Raiss is still to be seen. It 
stands on the right bank of the Levern, about two miles south of 
Cruickston, and distant four from Paisley. It was once the pro- 
perty and seat of a family named Halrig, a branch of the noble fa- 
mily of Damley. " I have seen,'* says Crawfurd, in his " History 
of the Shire of Renfrew," ^* a charter granted by John, Lord Darn- 
ley, and Earl of Lennox, of the lands of Halrig and Raiss, to 

* It was removed by the proprietur about eighteen years ugo. 



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194 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Alexander Stewart, consanguineo suoj u e. his kinsman, upon the 
resignation of Hector Stewart of Raiss, his father, anno 1484."* 
They now belong to James Sharp, Esq. merchant in Glasgow. 

Stanelie Castle^ an old tower, still in tolerable preservation, is si- 
tuated about two miles south-west of Paisley. It stands low, with 
the braes of Gleniffer rising immediately behind it. The masonry 
has been strong.; and a cornice at top, the corbels of which pro- 
ject considerably, gives an agreeable finish to the pile. Its height 
is about forty feet ; fully ten feet lower than the most elevated 
part of Cruickston Castle. Stanelie Castle and barony formed an 
ancient possession of the Danzielstons of that ilk,-(- <^ For I have 
seen," says Crawfurd, ^^ in the public rolls of King Robert III. a 
charter granted to Sir Robert Danzielston, Knight, of these lands, 
the second year of his reign ( 1372.)" The property came into the 
possession of one of the Maxwells of Calderwood, and is now in 
that of the Right Honourable the Earl of Glasgow. 

Besides these ancient castles, there are a few other antique 
structures in the parish. Hawkhead house is the principal of these 
in point of rank and extent. It is the residence of Lord Viscount 
Kelburne, and the property of his Lordship's father, the Earl of 
Glasgow. This house is an irregular pile, of which Crawfurd 
thus writes : ^^ South-west from the Castle of Crocston lie the 
castle and barony of Halkhead, situate upon the river Cart, the 
principal residence of the Right Honourable William Lord Ross.;^ 
This fabric is built in the form of a court, and consists of a lai^ 
old tower, to which there were lower buildings added, in the reign 
of King Charles I. an. 1634, by James Lord Ross, and Dame 
Margaret Ross, his lady, and adorned with large orchards, fine 
gardens, and pretty terraces, with regular and stately avenues, 
fronting the said castle, and almost surrounded with woods and 
inclosures." § Since Crawfurd's time, the house has undergone 
considerable alterations. "^ 

Blackhall House, lately occupied by a farmer, is now, the roof ^ 

" Scmple's Crawfurd, p. 241. t Robert6on*8 Crawfurd, p. 89. - 

X Of this family. Hamilton of Wishaw thus speaks: <* Robert dc Ross is wittness 
to repair a'year upon I even in the first vear of King Alexander the lliird, which is' 
1:248. They are frequently wittneases in the charters of the monasterie of Pasley. 
Thereafter, they were nobilitat by King James the Fourth, about the year 1492; 
and have continued in honour and reputation since. Godfridus de Ross, Miles, sone 
and heir of Sir Godfride de Ross, Knightt confinnes the lands in Stewarton which the 
abbacy of Pasley gott from Sir James Ross. Amongst the witnesses is AVilliam de 
Ros8r-1281, reg. Alex. Stii. 2." 

Account of the Sheriffdom of Renfrew, p. 77, printed for the Maitland Club In 
t^eyear 1831. 

§ Robertson's Crawfurd, p* 54. 



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PAISLBY. 195 

having by its proprietor been taken off, to be regarded as one of 
the ruins in the parish* It may be remarked, as affording a speci- 
men of the con&ned and homely accommodation, as respected the 
dwellings of families of rank and consequence little more than a 
century ago. It is on the banks of the Cart, south-east of Paisley, 
but in its immediate vicinity, and is a strongly built, old pile, still 
belonging^^to the Shaw Stewart family. It was to an ancestor of 
this family. Sir Archibald Stewart, the lands of Blackball were 
granted by King Robert III. in 1396** All the fair plantations 
and gardens, which, in Crawfurd's time, grew in its neighbourhood, 
are gone* A minute description of the house itself is in the 
Oentleman's Magazine for 1819 or 1820. 

Cardonaldj an old mansion in the castellated style, laige 
and commodious, is about three miles east of Paisley, on the 
banks of the White Cartf This venerable-looking struc- 
ture, now let to various tenants, is embowered in wood of large 
growth. It is spoken of by Crawfurd as one of the seats of the 
Kight Honourable Walter Lord Blantyre, a family to whom the 
property still belongs. The same author farther says, ^^ an an- 
cient family of the Stewarts did possess the lands of Cardonald," 
adding, that the first of these proprietors, AL Stewart ^' and 
Marion Semple, his spouse, obtained them in the year 1487." I 
In the reign of King James VL they passed to Walter Stewart, 
Prior § of Blantyre. 

Of the ancient manor place of the G>chranes, a family of great 
antiquity in Renfrewshire, and whose house and barony lay on 
the western side of the parish, no remains are to be seen. This 
was the principal manor of the Cochranes, whose ancestors had, 
in Crawfurd's time, (1710,) possessed the lands " well nigh' five 
hundred years." The greater part of this ancient barony is now 
the property of Ludovic Houstoun, Esq. of Johnston. 

Near the west end of the village of Elderslie, and on the south 
side of the turnpike road passing through it, a tenement of rather 
ancient appearance is pointed out as the house in which the renown* 
ed hero Sir William Wallace was born. But if this brave de- 
fender of his country was born, as is generally allowed, on the 
spot, it must have been in a habitation of older date. Adjoining 

• Rohertson*8 Crawfurd, p. 5a 

•f> lliis river is called tlie White Cart, to distineuiBh it from another river in thi< 
county, which, from its appearance, proiiably occasioned by the mossy ground around 
its source and along its banks, has received the name of the Black Cart. 

t Semple's Crawfurd, p. 229. § Commendator. 



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196 R£MPREWSHIRE. 

this house is aD old garden, from the foundation of whose walk, 
about thirty years ago, a stone was dug, bearing the following in- 
scriptioQ cut in Roman letters, *' W. W. W. Christ is only my 
Redeembr." The stone was taken to Elderslie house, the seat of 
Alexander Speirs, Esq. M. P. where it still remains. 

Near ^^ Wallace's House," the name by which the above-men* 
tioned mansion is known, but on the north side of the turnpike 
road, stands the very celebrated tree called ** Wallace's Oak." 
Many are the years that must have rolled away since this tree 
sprung from the acorn. About eight or ten years ago, its trunk 
measured 20 feet in circumference. Now, it measures only 14 
feet and 2 inches. It was 60 feet in height, and its branches ex- 
tended to the east 45 feet, to the west 36, and to the north 25, 
covering altogether a space of 19 English poles. It derives its name 
from having, as tradition affirms, afforded shelter to Wallace and 
a party of his followers, when pursued by their enemies, in the 
same way as the Boscobel oak afterwards did to Charles IL 

It is also worthy of notice, that, in the garden of Wallace's houses 
there is to be seen a fine specimen of pur Scottish yew, said to be 
coeval with, some say older than, the celebrated oak. But be this 
as it may, it is certainly of ancient date, and tradition has assigned 
to it the name of •* Wallace's Yew." 

The names of several places in the vicinity of Elderslie con- 
firm the opinion of that village having been the birth-place, or at 
least the dwelling-place^ of the Scottish hero. 

On the subject of antiquities, we would mention that, at a very 
liule distance to the north-west of Stanelie Castle, there was tiU 
lately a small wood, near which was a Danish stone, according to 
Semple, but more probably a Popish cross, ^^ between 4 and 5 feet 
high, standing on a pedestal, the cross-piece on the top broken 
off." It had wreathed work on its edges, and on one side near the 
base, figures of two lions, with those of two boars above.* 

At Auldbar, a mile or so to the southward of Hawkhead, there 
was another of a similar description called *^ the Stead stone Cross." 
<< It is now," says ^^ Semple, about 4^ feet long, 16 inches broadi 
and 8 inches thick, standing upon a pedestal about I^ foot high, 
4^ feet long, and 3 feet broad : which stone with its foundation 
had been lying in a gravel pit for some years, and was lately erect- 
ed by Mr Charles Ross of Greenlaw. He remembers, within these 

* Semp1e*s Renfrei» shire, part 2»p. 264. 
4 



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PAISLEY. 197 

forty years past, to have seen the cross-pieces on the top. No 
figures have been on it, only wreathed work/'* 

Not a mile to the south of this, at Harelaw Craigs, on a rock, 
upon the side of a branch road, ^^ are seventy-two small holeS of 
an oval form, an inch deep, and placed at irregular distances. 
Tradition has handed down, that a battle was fought here, and that 
these holes were where the feet of tents stood«''f Semple, how- 
ever, thinks the tradition groundless. X 

There are several estates in this parish, once or still belonging 
to families of distinction, which, generally speaking, have either no 
mansions on them, or dwellings of inferior character. We give 
their names here, because the proprietors or their connexions have 
figured in the history of their country. Raiss or LogarCs Kai$$^ 
John Logan of Raiss is named in the chartulary of Paisley as an 
arbiter between the Abbot of Paisley and the burgh of Renfrew, 
in 1488. The lands now belong to the Earl of Glasgow — White^ 
ford. Walter de Whiteibrd obtained these lands, which he so cal- 
led, from the Stewart of Scotland, for his good service, at the bat- 
tie of the Largs against the Norwegians, anno 1263, in the reign of 
Alexander III. Mr Kibbleof Whiteford has long possessed the lands. 
— NetdtoHf formerly belonging to the family of Alexander, is now the 
property of Alexander Speirs of Elderslie, Esq. in whose possession 
are also the lands otFulbarj belonging, when Crawfurd wrote, to a 
very ancient family of the name of Hall, settled there at least as 
early as the year 1370. — Bredieland^ still the property of a family 
of Maxwells, who have possessed the estate between three and 
four hundred years. William Maxwell, Esq. the present proprie- 
tor, has also the estate of Merksworth, anciently belonging to the 
Algoes of Walkinshaw. — Woodside^ beloi^ng, in Crawfurd's time, 
to his own fiunily, is now in the possession of the heirs of John 
Shedden, Esq. — Fergusliey on which is a good family residence, 
vras granted in 1544, by the abbot and convent of Paisley, to John 
Hamilton of the Orbieston family. It now belongs to John Wilson, 

• Semple's Renfrewshire, part 2, p. 238. f Ibid p. 239. 

X The rubbish which had gatheced upon and around these holes was lately 
cleared away» by order of John Wilson of Thornly, Esq., so that the antiquarian has 
now no difiiculty in tracing them. 

In a manuscript note by Dr Boog» appended to Semple's History, he says, " in 
the neighbourhood of the fium of Braehesd, some men digging in a hillock found 
several earthen rases. By their account they must have been urns : and along with 
them some brass instruments, which they describe as resembling heads of spears, 



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198 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Esq. The remains of the old Castle of Fergtulie are still to be 
traced on a property lately purchased, and at present possessed by, 
William Barr, Esq. of Drums. 

Within the burgh of Paisley, while it was yet an inconsiderable 
place, there stood several mansions^ each being the property, and 
frequently the residence of a noble or distinguished family. Of 
these we may mention Semple House, inhabited by the Lords 
Semple, heritable Sheriffs of the regality of Paisley ; and Fergus- 
lie House, originally belonging to the family of Ferguslie. Both of 
these dwellings are situated in the High Street, and are now oc- 
cupied by a variety of tenants. 

Modem Buildings, — The principal modern seats in the parish 
are, Johnstone Castle, Househill, and Ralston. The first of these 
stands on an estate originally called Easter Cochrane or Quarrelton, 
anciently possessed by Cochrane of Craigmuir,.4but for ages past by 
the ancestors of the present proprietor, Ludovic Houston, Esq.^* 
whose castle is now one of the chief ornaments of the county. The 
grounds around it are well wooded. — Househill, on the banks of the 
Levem, near its confluence with the White Cart, is a neat and com- 
fortable mansion, still, with the lands, in the proprietorship of the 
• ancient family of Dunlop of Househill. — Ralston House is compa- 
ratively a new and excellent mansion, built by the late William Orr, 
Esq. of Ralston.-}- There are also good and commodious houses 
on the estate of Barshaw, the property of Robert Smith, Esq. — 
and on the lands of Corseflat and Achentorlie, built by the late 
proprietor, Matthew Brown, Esq. and now in the possession of his 
son, Andrew Brown, Esq. To these may be added, Greenlaw 
House, the property and residence of Mrs Kibble ; Brabloch, of 
Fulton M^Kerrell, Esq. ; Maxwelton House, of Colonel Fulton • 
and Kilnside, an elegant mansion lately erected by Joseph White- 
head, Esq. 

There are, besides, especially in the neigfabourhood of the 

" The family of Johnston is a coHiteral branch of that of " Houston of that ilk," 
spoken of in Ilobertson*8 continuation of Crawfurd, p. 99, as of great antiquity, and 
deriving their descent from '< Hugo de Padvinan," who is mentioned as one of the 
witnesses to ** Walter High Stewart of Scotland's foundation charter of the Abbey of 
Pasly.** George Houston, younger of Johnston, Esq. has been recently chosen 
member of Parliament for this county in room of the late Sir M. S. Stewart of 
Greenock and Blackhall, Bart. 

f The estate of Ralston was long possessed by *•*• the Ralstons of that Ilk," said 
to derive their pedigree from Ralph, younger son of one of the Earls of File» who 
having obtained these lands from the High Steward of Scotland, they were afterwards 
. called Ralphstown, from the proper name of their proprietor."— Robertson's 6raw- 
furd, p. 57. The estate is now in the possession of the British Linen Banking Com- 
pany. 

3 



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PAISLEY. 199 

town, a number of neat villas, which persons enriched by trade 
take a delight in building ; and in laying out the grounds around 
these, the proprietors have displayed that taste for which the in* 
habitants of Paisley are so distinguished. 

Public Bmldings* — The county buildings were erected in 1818 
-1820, at an expense of about L. 28^000, raised by assessment on 
the county. The general form of this pile is quadrangular, and 
the style of the exterior castellated. The western or front divi- 
sion contains a court»house, county-hall, council-chambers, and a 
number of offices for different departments of public business con* 
nected with the town and county : the eastern range consists of 
the correction-house and common jail, with a chapel for reli* 
gious worship. Around these prisons there is a lofty wall, armed, 
where necessary, with ^^ chevaux de frise." Between the back 
and front divisions Itfe two courts for air and exercise. The 
front one is ornamented with a noble fa9ade, with projecting 
hexagonal turrets, rising considerably above the prison roof. An 
exterior balcony has been constructed over the arched gateway. 
It is supported by corbels', and adorned by a perforated parapet 
The buildings are for the use of the county as well as of the bmrgh. 

The steeple of the former prison and court-house still stands, an 
ornament at the cross. Opposite to it are the Ck)ffee-room build- 
ings, the upper part of which is adorned with Ionic [nlasters, 
and includes in it a large, elegant, and comfortable reading-room, 
on whose tables are always to be found an abundance of news- 
papers, reviews, and magazines. 

In addition to the parish churches, to be noticed under the bead 
Ecclesiastieal History, we may metition the Episcopal Chapel, a 
handsome building of chaste Gothic ; and one of the Secession 
churches, an elegant Grecian erection, as among the public build- 
ings which ornament the town. 

Town and Suburb^of Paisley. — The town of Paisley is at this day 
the third in Scotland in regard to size and population. Its houses, 
with those of its suburbs, are spread over a tract of ground, about 
two miles and a hsdf square. Its main street runs from east to 
west, for nearly two miles, and forms part of the road from Glas- 
gow to Beith and the Ayrshire coast towns. Another long line of 
street passes through the town, from north to south, the north part 
being the continuation of the road from Inchinnan, and the south 
merging in the road to Neilston. Perhaps the most spacious and 

RENFREW. O 



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200 RENPREWStllRE. 

regularly built street in Paisley is George Street ; but, in point of 
elegance of buildings, none can equal Forbes Street, which is lately 
opened. The new town, which is separated from the old by the 
river Cart, was planned by James eighth Earl of Abercom, who 
named most of the projected streets, in honour of the trade and 
manufactures of the place. The first houses in this important ad- 
dition to Paisley were erected in 1779. It now consists of upwards 
of twenty regularly formed and closely built streets. 

The town of Paisley, upon the whole, although well built, can- 
not cope in elegance with some of the larger towns of Scotland. 
Of late years, however, its appearance has been greatly improved 
by several low thatched houses having given way to neat and sub- . 
stantial tenements. Improvements of this description are in rapid 
progress. Of modem erections, Garthland Place may be point- 
ed out, at the entrance to Paisley from the east, as one of the 
most elegant rows of which any town in Scotland can boast ; and 
in passing along the streets, may be s4en several handsome, if not 
splendid houses, intermingled with the ordinary dwellings of the 
inhabitants. 

At Williamsburgh^ a village or suburb, east of the town, were 
erected, about fifteen years ago, barracks, adequate to the accommo- 
dation of half a regiment of foot. These barracks are commodious 
and pleasantly situated. 

Charleston^ including Lylesland and Dovesland, is a district, to 
the south of Paisley, inhabited chiefly by weavers, and containing, 
although most of it is built within these few years, a population 
of nearly 4000 inhabitants. 

Maxwelton^ Ferguslie^ and MiUerstony form the western suburbs 
of Paisley, and with the places just mentioned, are comprehended 
within the Parliamentary burgh. From the great space occupied 
by the town and suburbs of Paisley ; from the sloping character 
of the ground, on whichgreat part of it is built; and from the houses 
in general having a considerable portion of unoccupied ground be- 
hind them, and some of them tastefully laid out gardens. Paisley 
may, upon the whole, be considered as a heal thy place of residence, 
notwithstanding the occasional visitations of epidemical disease. 
/ Villages. — In the parish, besides the suburbs of Paisley, we have 
to mention the following villages, viz. Nitshill, Hurlet, Corsemill, 
and Dovecothall, in the south-east ; and Elderslie, Thorn, Over- 



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PAISLEY, 201 

ton, and Quarrelton, with Johnston, which may be considered rather 
as a thriving town than as a village, in the west. Nitskillj distant 
about four miles from the old parish church, and Hurlety about 
three, are inhabited chiefly by colliers and other miners employed 
in the extensive works in their neighbourhood. The inhabitants 
of CorsemiU and Dovecothall again, also about three or four miles 
from the Abbey Church, are chiefly employed in the bleachfields 
and printfields oo the banks of the Levem, although several of 
the inhabitants of all these four villages find occupation in the 
extensive cotton-mill at Barrhead^ in the neighbouring parish of 
Neilston. 

Elderslie, situated about two and a half or three miles from Pais* 
ley, is, exclusive of Johnston, the most populous village in this pa- 
rish, beyond the bounds of the Parliamentary burgh. Its inhabi- 
tants are chiefly weavers, and cotton-spinners, including at the same 
time several employed at the neighbouring coal-pits and quarries. 
As the Glasgow, Paisley, and Ardrossan Canal stretches along the 
north side of this village, it greatly facilitates its commercial inter- 
course with the neighbouring towns. Its inhabitants are well sup- 
plied with excellent water, from springs in the vicinity, especially 
from the &med Bore^ a spring, whose water came in contact 
with a shaft, put down about forty years ago, when searching for 
coaL After boring forty fathoms deep, the original design was aban- 
doned ; but although coal was not obtained, the spring still con- 
tinues to supply plentifully the inhabitants of this interesting village 
with excellent water, throughout the whole year, at the rate of five 
gallons per minute, being six and a half gallons per day to each in- 
dividual 

Thorn and Otfertan are peopled by colliers, weavers, and a few 
other handicraftsmen. The population of Quarrelton consists al- 
most entirely of colliers. This village is very pleasantly situated, 
on die north side of the great road from Glasgow to Beith ; and 
it, as well as Elderslie, and the other villages on this line of road, 
presents from morning to night, a very busy and animated scene, 
from the great number of travellers daily passing. This village, 
like Elderslie, is well supplied with excellent water. 

Johnston^ which is still included in the parish, quocid dviUa, ex- 
hibits a most striking illustration of the effect of manufactures, in 
originating and increasing towns. 

About fifty years ago, near that bridge across the Black Cart, 



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202 RENFREWSHIRE. 

which, till lately, gave to the place the popular name of ^< Brig o* 
Johnston,'' merely a few cottages were to be seen, where now is a 
town consisting of two large squares, many considerable streets^ 
and numerous public works. This town is about four miles west 
from Paisley, and about eleven from Glasgow. Its situation is very 
pleasant, being contiguous to the Black Cart It is probable that, 
at thia day, it would either not have existed, or if it had, have been 
confined to the few cottages near the bridge, had not the late pub* 
lie-spirited proprietor, by his influence and example, excited a spi- 
rit of industry among its inhabitants, and cherished it by his pa- 
ternal care. The spirit he infused has continued to manifest itself, 
in the increasing wealth and prosperity of its enlightened and 
enterprising merchants and tradesmen. 

The rapid increase of this, place is not exceeded, if equalWd, \n> 
the annals of Scottish history. It began to be feued in the year 
1781, when it contained only ten persons. Towards the end of 
October 1782, nine houses of the New Town of Johnston were 
built, two others were being erected^ and ground on which forty- 
two more were to be built wa3 feued. In 1792, the inhabitants 
amounted to 1434 in number ; in 181 1, to 3647 ; in 1818, to about 
5000; and in 1831, to 5617. 

. As the introduction of the manufacture of cotton yam by mill 
machinery led to the founding of Johnston, so has the extension 
of the same manufacture contributed to its rapid increase and pre- 
sent prosperity. Within the boundary of this place are situated not 
less than eleven cotton mills. 

The town of Johnston is built on a very regular plan. Besides 
Houston Square, in the centre of the town, which is now built up 
on every side, there is to the southward a large area, intended to 
be a second squaiie, as well as market place, which is already 
beginning to be enclosed with neat houses* High Street, whick 
extenids from the bridge of Johnston to Dick's Bridge on the east, 
is closely built, as ajre several other streets, branching at right an* 
gles from both its sides. The houses in Johnston, are, for the. 
most part, two and three stories in. height, handsomely composed 
of good mason work. To each bouse is attached an adequate ex- 
tent of garden ground. The shops are numerous, some of them 
elegant». and in general, well stocked with varieties of excellent com- 
modities. 

The civil polity of the town is managed by a committee elected 



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PAISLEY. 203 

anoually by the feuar& A Justice of Peace Court is held in the 
Assembly Rooms on the first Friday of every month* In Johnstoii 
there are a due proportion of highly respectable writers aiid me- 
dical practitioners, — a lodge of free masons, — various booksellers 
and printers, — fire and life assurance companies, and a branch of the 
Paisley Union Bank, — carriers to Paisley, Glasgow, Port-Glasgow, 
and Greenock. The market-place is very spacious, and afibrds 
accommodation rarely to be met with. The Glasgow, Paisley 
and Ardrossan Canal terminates in a basin at the east end of John- 
ston, to the advantage of which it greatly contributes. Adjoin- 
ing to the coal quay in this place, the tacksman of the Nitshill 
stone quarry has a yard for landing his building materials, for the 
better accommodation of those who prefer using the excellent 
stones of that quarry, in the construction of their fiictories and 
houses. 

From an eminence on the Paisley road, distant about a quarter 
of a mile from Johnston, that village has a picturesque appearance. 
The light and elegant spire which adortis its octagonal church is 
an object of general admiration* It was built in 1823, and is an 
imitation in miniature of the famous spire at Lincoln, built by Sir 
Christopher Wren. Since the erection of this spire, not less than 
five different bells have been its inmates, all of which, although of 
good materials, as well as* excellent tone, have been rendered un-- 
fit for duty by fracture, occasioned, it has been said, by the con- 
fined space in which they were hung« A sixth bell is now order- 
ed, but it is proposed to erect it in a lower part of the spire thcln 
that occupied by its predecessors, in the hope, that, in a more 
roomy space^ it will be less liable to the accident which befell the 
others. 

IIL — Ecclesiastical History. 
Monastery* — At one period, Renfrewshire was all comprehended 
in the deanery of Ruthei^len, being one of the ten deaneries of the 
Episcopal see of Glasgow. The only monastic establishment 
in the county wa5 that of Paisley, founded by Walter, son of Alan, 
the first of the Stewarts. This monastery appears to have been 
founded in the year 1 163,* for a Prior, and thirteen Cluniac Monks, f 
whom its founder broij^ht from Wenlock in Shropshire^ bis native 

• Chart. Pais. pref. p. 3. 

f ** The order derived its name from the Abbey of Cluni in Burgundy, the first 
and always the chief house of what were termed the reformed Benedictines."— Pref. to 
Chart, p. a 



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204 RENFREWSHIRE. 

country.* It has been supposed that Paisley was not the first situa- 
tion selected as the seat of this monastery* A charter of Malcolm 
confirms a grant of its founder, to the monks of St Milburga of 
Wenlock, of the Cluniac order, seated at the church of St Mary 
and St James, in the Inch beside Renfrew ; and a recorded char- 
ter of the founder grant* to the monks of Paisley " terram quam 
monachi prius habitaverunt" f These words, however, do not 
prove that Walter founded his monastery at Renfrew^ and after- 
wards removed it to Paisley, although they are strong evidence, 
that, previous to the grant referred to» a settlement of monks ex- 
isted at the former place* But if, by any other evidence, it can 
be made out that Renfrew was the original site of our monastery, 
it appears that its founder soon discovered the superiority of 
Paisley over Renfrew, as its site : for within a very short period, 
and before the death of King Malcolm, did he remove the new 
colony to their more permanent abode. :|: 

The monastery was dedicated generally to God and the Vir- 
gin Mary, and in particular to St James and St Mirin, § the 
last of whom seems to have been a Scottish Confessor, who passed 
his days in this vicinity, became afterwards the tutelar saint of the 
place, and was commemorated on the 15th of September || This 
mo^stery, by its original constitution, was ruled by a prior. But 
about the year 1220, it was, by a bull of Pope Honorius, raised to 
the rank of an abbacy, and the lands belonging to it were after- 
waras erected into a regality, under the jurisdiction of an abbot, if 
Its Abbot was entitled to wear a mitre, a ring, and other ponti- 
ficals; ** and he and the monks obtained from the popes many bulls, 
confirming their rights, and conferring on them certain privileges, ff 
It was liberally endowed by Walter, its founder. " He granted 
to the monks the Church of Inverwick, and the Mill of Inver- 
wick, in East Lothian ; the Church of Legerdeswode, in Berwick- 

• Chalmera, in bis Caledonia, has not only illustrated that obscure part of Scottish 
History, tbe true origin of the Stewart family, by showing that Walter, the first 
Stewart of Scotland, who obtained such magnificent possessions from David I. 
was one of the Fitzalans of Shropshire, afterwards Earls of Arundel, but has ex- 
plained the nature of the connexion between that &mi]y and the Cluniac Monks of 
Wenlock.— Vol. i. p. 572-6. 

f Chart. Pais. pref. p. 5. ^ lb. 

$ ** S. Merinus monachus, S. Regulo Graeoo perfiuniliaris, qui vd una cum illo in 
Scottam appulit, vel cum ille appelleret, strenuam, Deoque acceptun, instruendis 
Christiana pietate popularibus operam impendebat, Scripsit, " Homilins de Sanctis,** 
Florebat anno ccclxix.*' Dempsteri, Historia Ecclesiastica, p. 481, Tom. ii. print- 
ed for the Maitland Club in 1829. 

B Chalm. Caled. V. iii. p. 820. t C^*^. Pais. p. 8. 

* ^ Chart. Paisley, p. 429. ft Ib< pauim. 



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PAISLEY. 205 

shire; a carucate* of land, at Hastenesdene, in Roxburghshire; 
the churches of Cathcart, and of Paisley, and all the churches of 
Strathgryfe, in Renfrewshire, except that of Inchinnan; the church 
of Prestwick-burgh, and the church of Prestwick, with all the lands 
of Prestwick, in Ayrshire ; a salt-work at Calentir, in Stirlingshire ; 
the lands of Drip and of Paisley and other lands in the barony of 
Renfrew ; a toft in his burgh of Renfrew ; f and half a merk of 
silver, yearly, from his rents in that burgh ; the mill of Renfrew ; 
the island in the Clyde near Renfrew ; and the fishing between 
that island and Perthec ; one net's fishing for salmon, and six nets 
fishing for herrings, in the Clyde; 4s. yearly from the mill of 
Paisley, and the right of grinding their corns at this mill, free of 
multure : the tenth of the produce of that mill, and of all his other 
mills ; the tithes of all his wastes, and of all the lands, which were 
settled, or should be settled in his forests : the right of pasturage 
and all other easements in the forest of Paisley ; the tenth of his 
venison, and the skins of his venison ; the tenth penny of the rents 
of all his lands, except those in Kyle." % Eschina, the wife of the 
founder, gave to the monks some lands and pasturages, in her ter- 
ritory of Moll in Roxburghshire. § Alan, the son of Walter, be- 
sides confirming his father's grants, made considerable additions 
to them, such as the church of Kingarf, in Bute, with its chapels, 
—and a large tract of land in that island. Walter, the third Stew- 
art, and grandson of the founder, added still farther to the posses- 
sions of the monastery, as did also the vassals of the founder and 
his successors. Accordingly, we find the monks of Paisley in pos- 
session, at one time, of th^ church of Sanchar, and the church of 
Dundonald, with its two chapels of Crosby, and Richardtoun, the 
church of Achinleck and of Craigie in Ayrshire, the churches of 
Pollock, Mearns, and Neilston in Renfrewshire. || We may men- 
tion also, that Walter the Stewart, in 1318^ added to the endow- 
ments of the first three Stewarts, the church of Largs, in Ayrshire, 
with its property and pertinents, for the salvation of the soul of his 
wife, Marjory Bruce, who was buried in the monastery at Paisley.lf 
The monks of Paisley were also gifted with the churches of Ruther- 

* A carucate of land, that b, « as much land as a plough could till in one year, 
computed in England at lOO acres.** Skene de Signif. Verb. 

t Toft is used to denote ** a place of pasture near a village.** Jameson's Supplement, 
verb. Toft. Charter of Alan, the second Steward of Scotland, son of Walter, the 
founder of the monastery of Paisley, granting a toft in Renfrew, and the right of a 
salmon-net in the river Clyde, to the monks of Cuper." From the Cottonian Charter, 
xviii. 24. See Illustrations of Scottfsh History, printed for the Maitland Club. 

X Chart. /NUftm, Chalmers* Caledon. VoL iii. p. 8^. § Chart, p. 74. 

II Chalmers, Vol. iii. p. 821. t 1^. 



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206 RENFREWSHIRE. 

glen and Carmunnock, in Lanarkshire, before 1189, and of Kilfin- 
an, in Cowal, and of Kilcolmanel, in Knapdale, with the chapel of 
St Columba. By these and other rich donations, as well as smal- 
ler acquisitions of lands and tenements in burghs, partly the gifts 
pf pious individuals, and partly by purchase, did Paisley become 
the most opulent monastery in the south of Scotland, with the ex- 
ception of Kelso. St Andrews, Dunfermline, and Aberbrothock 
are mentioned as the only ones north of the Forth, that exceeded 
it. These, however, were of royal foundation, nor is there any ex- 
ample in all Scotland of any monastic establishment being so li- 
berally endowed by a private family, as that of Paisley was by the 
first three Stewarts.* 

The Abbey of Paisley was the feimily burying-place of the Stew- 
arts, before their accession to the throne, and even after that pe- 
riod, Eupheme, Queen of Robert IL, and Robert III. were buried 
at Paisley; the first in 1387, and the second in 1406. f The 
monastery was destroyed by fire by the English in 1307. J It 
was afterwards rebuilt and greatly enlarged. The magnificent Ab- 
bey Church, which existed at the Reformation, seems to have been 
built in the reigns of James I. and IL, and was nearly completed 
by Abbot Thomas Tarvas, in 1459. § It was after the model 
of a Cathedral, in the form of a cross, with a very lofty steeple, 
finished after the abbot's death. || The spacious buildings of this 

• Chalmers, Vol. iii. p. 822. t lb. 

i Fordun, as referred to by Chalmers, Vol. iii. p. 824 

§ ** The yer of God mcccclix. the penult day of Junii, deoessit at Paisley, Thomas 
Tarvas, Abbot of Pasley, the quhilk was ane richt gude man, and helplyk to the 
place of ODy that eyer was ; for he did mony notable thingis, and held ane noble 
hous, and was ay wele purvait. He &nd the place all out of gud rcwle, and destitute 
of leving, and all the kirkis in lordis handis, and the kirk unbiggit. The body of the 
kirk fira the bricht stair up, he^ biggit and put on the ruf, and thecket it with 
sclait, and riggit it with stane, and biggit ane great porcioun of the steple, and ane 
staitlie yethous, and brocht hame money gud joweUis, and olathis of gold, silver, and 
silk, and mony gud bukis, and made staitlie stall is, and glasynit raekle of aU the 
kirk. And brocht hame the staitliest tabernakle that was in all Scotland, and the mast 
oostlie. And schortliehc brocht all the place to fredome, and lira Qocht till aue michty 
place, and left it out of all kynd of det, and at all fredoihe till dispone as thaim 
lykit, and left ane of the best myteris that was in Scotland, and chandillaiis of silver, 
and ane lettren of bras, with mony uther gud jowellis.'* — Auchinlek ChromcU. 

J One of the architects employed in the erection or repairing of the Abbey, was 
n Murdo, as appears from the following inscription, on the south side o^the 
transept door of the Abbey of Melrose. 

iOHTX : MUKDO : SUM : TTM : CALLVT 

w. s ;.,.^...^j) : BORN : in : parvsss 
CKRTAiyLT : AND : HAD : IK : KEMMG : 
AL : MASON : WRHK £ Of : SAKTAN 
DRAVS : YE : HTX : KIRK . OF : QLAS : 
OO : MELROfl : AKD : FASLAY : OF 
NYDDSDALL : ,>>.^i^.D : OF : GALWAT : 

I : FRAY : TO : god :..,^d : y : bath. 



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PAISLEY. 207 

monastery, with its extensive orchards and gardens, and a small 
park for fallow-deer, were surrounded by a magnificent wall of cut 
stone, upwards of a mile in circumference. This wall was built in 
the reign of James IILin 1485, by George Shaw, Abbot of Pais- 
ley, as appears from the following inscription on the west wall of 
the house, at the angle formed by Lawn Street and Incle Street. 

THEI CALLR TK ABBOT QEORG OP SCUAWB, 
▲BOUT YX8 A BEAT OABT MAK TIIM WAW ; 
A THOU8ANDK FOUR HUMDRBTH ZHEYB, 

AUCHTT ANDE PYVE, TUE DATE BUT TEIB : ' 

f « • « 

THAT MADE THUS VOBIL FOUNDACXOUN. 

Spottiswood takes notice of another inscription. ^* In one of 
the corners of this curious wall, towards the outer side, there was 
a niche, with a statue of the Virgin Mary, with this distichp en- 
graven under her feet 

Hae ne vade via, nisi dixeris ave Maria, 
Sit semper sine vae, qui tibi dicit ave.'* \ 

The wall, indeed, seems to have been adorned at frequent in- 
tervals, with statues. I 

At the Reformation, the rental of the Monastery of Paisley, as 
reported to Government in January 1561-2, amounted to L. 2468 
in money ; 72 chalders and 4 bolls of meal ; 40 chalders and 1 1 
bolls of bear ; 42 chalders, 1 boll, 1 firlot, and 1 peck of oats ; and 
706 stones of cheese ; and at that time not less than twenty-nine 
parish churches belonged to this monastery. § After the Refor- 
mation, the abbacy was secularized by the Pope, in favour of Lord 
Claud Hamilton, third son of the Duke of Chatelherault || ; and 

Historians have supplied the part of the inscription which is effaced, in conse- 
quence of which, the whole is given as under : 

** John Murdo, sum tym callyt was I, 
And born in Parysse certainly, 
And had in keping all mason werk 
Of Santandrays, ye hye kirk 
Of Glasgu, Melros, and Paslay, 
Of Nyddsdall, and of Galway : 
I pray to God and Mary bath, 
And sweet St John kep this haly kirk fra skaith." 
* Semple thinks the line " pray for his salyation** was obliterated between 171 and 
1736. 

t See Renfrewshire Characters and Scenery, published in 1824, p. 3& 
i Quod (monasterium) magnificentissimo muro, quadro penitus, lapide pulcher- 
rimis ac crebro, emlnentibus statuis ultra mille passus undique cingebatur. Leskeus^ 
as quoted in notes to Renfrewshire Characters and Scenery. 
f Chalmers's Caled. Vol. iii. p. 826. 

I Long before this period, free use seems, at times, to have been made of the pro- 
perty of ecclesiastics. The following is an extract of a letter, *' from Dr Magnus to 
Cardinal Wolaey, dated at Edinburgh, !^2d December 1524."-.« The good Abbot of 



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208 RENFREWSHIRE. 

on the 29th of July, 1587, erected by the King and Parliament, 
into a temporal lordship, when the whole property of the monas- 
tery, with the patronage of the several churches, was granted to 
Lord Claud, and his heirs in fee ; and he himself was created 
Lord Paisley* * The opulent lordship of Paisley continued in 
that family till 1652, when James Earl of Abercom sold it to the 
Earl of Angus, who next year sold the greater part of it to Lord 
William Cochran, who was created Earl of Dundonald, and Lord 
Cochran of Paisley in 1669. The barony of Kilpatrick, in Dum- 
bartonshire, he disposed of to Sir John Hamilton of Orbistoun ; 
the lands of Monkton in Ayrshire to Lord Bargany ; and those 
of Glen, in Renfrewshire, to Lord Sempil, and others* f Great 
part of the lordship of Paisley was, at different times, sold off by 
the Dundonald family; and what remained of it was, in 1764, re-> 
purchased by James Earl of Abercom, and now belongs to the 
Marquis of Abercom. % Since the Reformation, the Abbey has 
been successively the residence of Lord Paisley, the Earl of Aber- 
com, and the Earls of Dundonald. But the Earl of Dundonald, 
having demolished the ancient gateway of the Abbey, and feued 
off the immediately adjoiping grounds for building, the appear- 
ance of the place was entirely changed, and the Abbey rendered 
unfit for a family residence. It has, since that time, been let out, 
in separate dwellings, to tradesmen's families, and, for several years, 
has been in a state of great disrepair. The Abbey Park, with 
its orchards and gardens, are now the site of the New Town of 
Paisley, having been feued off for building ground by their pro- 
prietor in 1781. Till that period, the magnificent cut stone wall 
that enclosed the park remained nearly entire. But having been 
sold to the feuars, most of the stones have been since used in 
building their houses, and now (1837) the only portion of it, we 

Pasley of late shewed unto me be was likly to susteyne gret hurt and damage, booth 
to bymselfand his monastery by the saide twoe Erles, (*' Angwisshe and Lenowx") 
if remedy were not founden in tyme convenient, for as he shewed unto me the said 
twoe Erles intended to keep thaire Crirtenmas In his saide house, and to use every 
thing there at thaire libertye and pleasur, booth for hors and naan, to the noumber of 
ijc persons, and therfore desired me to write for hym to the Erie of Angwisshe, and 
soe I did, and besides that matier, gave vnto the saide Erie of Angwisshe my poore 
advertisment« according to the contynne of your saide gracious letteres, copy of my 
letter with his answer therunto, pretermitting a grete parte of the effectuall matier 
wherynne I shulde have knowen his mend, I send also vnto your saide grace." Il- 
lustrations of Scottish History, page 112-113, printed for Muitland Club. 

* Chalmers's Caled. Vol. iiL p. 827, and former Statistical Account Vol. viL p. 
69. also Hamilton's Description of Lan. and Rcnfw. p. 74. printed for Mait. Club. 
1831. 

t Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. iii. p. 827, and Sutistical Account, Vol. vii. p. 95. 

t Ibid. 



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PAISLEY. 209 

believe, which has escaped destruction, is to be seen in its place, 
near the Seedhill Bridge. 

Chap€ls.~^Jn former times, there were several chapels within the 
parish of Paisley. In the town there stood one of these, dedicat- 
ed to St RocL The Stewarts had one at their manor-place of 
Blackball, on the south-east of the town. Before the end of the 
twelfth century, an hospital was founded for infirm men, by Ro- 
bert Croc, one of the most considerable vassals of the first Stewart 
already mentioned, as having settled at, and given the name to. 
Croc's town, afterwards called Cruickston. He not only endowed 
this hospital, but also built a chapel, and endowed a chaplain to 
perform divine service, for the infirm brothers of the hospital. A 
license was obtained by him and Henry Nes, both vassals of the 
Stewarts, to have, within the walled courts of their habitations, 
two oratories, or private chapels, for the celebration of divine ser- 
vice, on condition, that all the oblations received in those chapels, 
should be carried to the mother church of Paisley. This hos- 
pital seems to have stood on the left bank of the Levern water, be- 
tween old Cruickston and Neilston.* 

Of the parochial church of Paisley, the monks enjoyed the 
tithes and revenues. Its tithes, according to the rental of the 
monastery, were yearly, 5 chalders, 1 firlot and 3 pecks of meal ; 6 
chalders, 9 bolls of bear ; L. 10 for the tithes of the lands of 
Whiteford and Ralston ; and L. 26» Ids. 4d. for the tithes of the 
town of Paisley : and, according to the same rental, the vicarage 
revenues of the parish churches of Paisley and Lochwinnoch were 
L. 100 yearly.t 

After the Reformation these tithes and revenues, along with the 
patronage of the parish, became the property of the commenda- 
tors of Paisley, till 1587, when, as has been stated, the whole pro- 
perty of this opulent monastery was granted to Lord Claud Ha- 
milton, the then commendator, and his heirs. The patronage of 
the church has since belonged to the different proprietors of the 
Lordship of Paisley, and is now in the hands of the Most Noble 
the Marquis of Abercom. ^ 

Of those who held the chief place in the monastery, whether 
as prior or abbot, or afterwards as commendator, Crawfurd has 
furnished us with a list, which future writers have copied. The 

* Chalmers's Caled. Vol. iii. p. 828, 829, and 832. 

t Ibid. p. 831, 8d2. 

X Ibid. p. 832, and Sutistical Account, Vol. vii. p. 94. 



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210 RENFREWSHIRE. 

following) (for which the chartulary is our chief authority,) it is pre- 
sumed, will be found more correct than the one referred to, al- 
though on this subject we cannot pretend to complete accuracy.* 
Prtor^.— The monastery of Paisley was at first governed by a 
prior. 

1. Osbert is the first prior on record in the chartulary, in con- 
firmation by Pope Alexander IIL 8th April 1172. f He was suc^ 
ceeded by 

2. Roger, who, by charter dated about 1 180, grants to Robert 
Croc and Henry de Nes, special friends of the convent, license to 
build the two chapels already noticed4 By a charter, referred to 
the period between 1223 and 1233, he and the convent resign to 
Walter, second of the name, son of Alan, the island near the town 
of Renfrew, afterwards called King's Inch. 

Abbots. — About 1220, the monks received authority to elect an 
abbot as superior of the convent. The first abbot is, 

1. William. He is witness in an agreement dated 1225, with Hugh, 
son of Reginald, as to the lands of Achinchoss (Houston.) In 1235, 
he is witness to an agreement dated at Blackball, between the Earl 
of Lennox and Gilbert the son of Samuel, as to the lands of 
Monachkenneran. 

2. Stephen succeeded. A charter is granted by him in 1272, to 
Thomas of Fulton, and Matilda, his wife, of their lands of Fulton. 
Crawfurd states, that Andrew de Kelcou was the successor of Wil- 
liam. But this is incorrect. The deed to which Crawfurd refers as 
evidence, instead of being dated in ]318|is dated in 1328, and proves 
that this Andrew was not abbot, but prior at the time, and acted 
in the matter as procurator and attorney for the abbot and mo- 
nastery.§ 

3. Walter succeeded Stephen. His name is to be found in the 
Ragman Roll, as having come under submission to Edward in 
1296. ' He was succeeded by, 

4. Roger, in 1312, whose successor was, 

6. John, who is Abbot in 1327, when Andrew, Bishop of Ar- 
gyle, grants to the monks the fruits belonging to the rector in 
the churches of Kilfinnan, Kilkerran, and Kilcolmanel. In 1334, 
Pope Benedict granted this abbot and his successors the liberty 

* <^ The rental book of Paisley furnishes information concerning seTeral of the abbots, 
with the assistance of which, it may be possible to give a complete and correct Ibt of 
them.*' Chart. Pais. pref. p. ^ 

t Printed Chart, p. 406, \ lb. 77, 78. 

§ Chart. Pais. p. 27. 



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PAISLEY. 211 

of wearing the mitre, ring, and other Pontificals. He was suc- 
ceeded by, 

6. John de Lithgow. His name occurs in the chartulary, in 
deeds bearing the dates 1884, 1387, 1388, 140a Within the 
north porch of the Abbey Church is a stone with this inscription : 
Johes d. Lychtgu abbas hujus monastii xx die mesis Januarii ano 
dm Mccccxxxiii elegit fieri sua sepulture. But it would appear 
that soon after 1408^ he had resigned his office, for, 

7. William Chisholm is Abbot in 1414. He was one of the 
monks of the monastery, and probably recommended himself to the 
Chapter by his activity in the temporal affairs of the convent, in 
which he appears to have had some concern durbg the rule of Ab- 
bot Lithgow. His successor was, 

8» Thomas Morwe, who on 13th Octc^r 1420, and 21st April 
1421, receives a safe-conduct to pass into England.* To him sue- 
ceeded the celebrated^ 

9. Thomas Tarvas, who died 30th June 1459. The next abbot is, 

10. Henry Crichton, who was translated to Dunfermline in 1472, 
and was succeeded by, 

11. George Shaw, celebrated as the builder of the magnificent 
wall which surrounded the monastery and its gardens, and the 
founder of the burgh of Paisley in 1490, when his charter to the 
provost, baillies, burgesses, and community ofthe burgh is dated. 
He was a younger son of John Shaw of Sauchie, Stirlingshire^ a 
family now represented by Sir M. Shaw Stewart of Greenock and 
Blackball, Bart His life has been written by Crawfurd. (Lives 
of the Officers of State, Edinburgh, 1726, p. 367.) 

12. Robert Shaw, another son of the house of Sauchie, and 
nephew to Abbot Shaw, became his successor on his uncle's resig- 
nation in March 1498-9. He became Bishop of Moray, and was 
succeeded by, 

13b John Hamilton, the last Abbot, who was appointed by the 
Pope, 18th May 1525. He was a natural son of James, first 
Earl of Arran, ^^ by Mrs Boyd, a gentlewoman (says Keith) of a 
very good family in the shire of Ayr." He obtained a legitima^ 
tion on the 20th of June 1 546. In the same year he was made 
Bishop of Dunkeld, and, in 1549, Archbishop of St Andrews. He 
was declared a traitor by the government of the Regent Moray in 
1568) for adhering to the cause of Queen Mary. In 1571, on the 
seizure of Dunbarton Castle, he fell into the hands of his enemies, 

* See Hotuli Scotiae. 



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212 RENFREWSHIRE, 

and, three days thereafter, was ignominiously hanged on a gibbet, 
in the town of Stirling. This abbot erected, at immense expense, 
a handsome tower to the Abbey Church.* 

Commendators, — John Hamilton, about four years after his ap- 
pointment to the Archbishoprick of St Andrews, resigned the ab« 
bacy, as already mentioned,f in favour of his nephew. Lord Claud 
Hamilton. But while the archbishop resigned his place as abbot, 
he still continued, as commendator, in possession of the rule and re- 
venues of this valuable benefice. After his death, Lord Claud 
having also adhered to Queen Mary, 

Robert, son to William Lord Sempil, heritable baillie of Pais- 
ley, was appointed commendator of the monastery, by the treaty 
of Perth in February 1 572-a 

Lord Claud was afterwards restored to his rights, when he ex- 
pelled Lord Sempil from the monastery, and took possession of it 
himself as commendator. He was in 1579 obliged to fly into Eng- 
land ;| but returning from it, in 1585, he was again restored to his 
property and rights ; and on the 29th of July 1587, the whole pro- 
perty of the monastery, which he held for life, as commendator, 
was erected into a temporal lordship, and granted to him and his 
heirs in fee.§ 

Church. — The church of the monastery when entire appears to 
have consisted of a nave, a northern transept, and a choir, vnth the 
chapel commonly called " the Sounding Aile," partly on what 
would have formed the site of the southern transept The edifice 
has been 265 feet in length, measured over the walls. The in- 
ternal measurement of the nave is 9 feet 3 inches in length, and 
59 feet 6 inches in breadth, indudiDg the width of the ailes, the 
northern of which is 13^ feet, and the southern 12| wid^ le aiii ^ 
83 feet 5 inches as the width of the nave proper. The transept 
measures internally 92^ feet by 35, and the choir, which has been 
without ailes, 123^ by 32 feeL The measurement of the transept 
is carried across the church, to the wall of what is called St 
Mirren's chapel, or the sounding-aile. 

Externally, the walls of the side ailes of the nave are sur- 
mounted by a plain parapet, at about 27 feet from the ground : 

* LeaUeus de Origine, &o. Scotorum, pu 10. -f P. 176. 

X " The twabreioer, Lord John and Claud Hamiltoiins, fled in Ingland, and their 
landxs at the King's gift.*' ^ Ane croniekiil of the Kingia of Scotland," p. 183, print- 
ed for Mait. Club. 

§ AcU Pari. Hi. 595, 432, 587. as referred to by Chalmers. See Caledon. Vol. iii. p. 
827. 



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PAISLEY. 213 

the walls of the nave rise 33 feet higher, and the parapet is pierced 
by embrasures. From the ground to the roof of the building, the 
height is 82, and to the top of the belfry 90 feet 

The west front of the church is an elevation of much dignity, 
composed of a grand central and two lateral compartments, se- 
parated and flanked by buttresses, three of which are terminated 
by recently erected cones^ a similar one of which is on the east 
end of the nave. These cones are by no means ornamental. 
The centre of the front is horizontally divided into three com- 
partments, in the lowest one of which there is a grand door-way 
very deeply recessed, flanked by two elegant blank arches, nar- 
rowly pointed, and adorned, as well as the arch of the great door- 
way, by a moulding filled with the toothed ornament. The mould- 
ings of the principal arch rise from the capitals of fifteen slender 
shafts, alternately relieved and attached. In the second com- 
partment are two well-proportioned windows, 26 feet in height, 
by 9-^ in breadth, and divided into three simply pointed lights, 
the upper part being filled with tracery, consisting of circles and 
triangles. In the spandrils between, and on each side of these 
windows, are three Grothic niches, each 7 feet in height, in which 
images, it is said, were at one time placed. Each of these is 
ornamented with a wreath of toothed ornament, similar to that 
of the great archway, and four blank quatrefoils occupy the spaces 
between their pointed arches. The uppermost compartment con- 
tains one large window, 19 feet by 14 feet 9 inches, of five trefoil 
headed lights, above which is elaborate flowing tracery, filling 
the whole arch of the window. Each of the side compartments 
of this imposing front is pierced by a single window, of the lancet 
or narrow pointed form. 

The ailes are lighted by pointed windows, in the decorated 
style, divided by muUions into two, three, and in some, four lights, 
the arched heads filled with flowing tracery of diversified cha- 
racter. Of the four in the north aile, the first and second from the 
transept seem to have undergone less change than the others, as 
their architecture has more the appearance of antiquity, or at least 
bears fewer marks of alteration or rem>vation than that of the 
others. This remark applies also to the second, from the west 
end of the south aile. On the north wall, toward its west end, 
is a porch, above which is erected the present Testry. Through 
this porch is an entrance, in a stjie of architecture somewhat si- 
milar to that of the western. On the left wall of the portico is 



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214 RENFREWSHIRE. 

an inscription to the memory of John de Uthgow, mentioned 
among the Abbots of the monastery. The south aile presents 
the same number of windows with the north. It show» also two gate- 
ways, now built up, one near each end of the building, the eastern 
one being semicircularly arched, and exhibiting the only feature 
which appears to be of Norman character, in the exterior of the 
edifice* The clerestory windows are twelve in number, on each 
side of the main body of the nave. They are formed by a muUion 
into two trefoil-headed lights, and quatre-foiled in the enclosing 
arch. As these windows are placed close to each other, open- 
ing within pointed arches, and finely proportioned, they im- 
part to the church a peculiarly light and graceful appearance. 
That appearance on the south, however, is at present destroyed, 
as the whole range is built up with rough masonry. The eastern 
gable of the nave is merely a screen ot modem masonry, filling 
up the western arch beneath the great tower. On the outside of 
this gable may be traced a mural tablet, apparently erected to 
the memory of the unfortunate John Hamilton, the last of the 
abbots. The remains of an inscription, and the arms of the 
Hamiltons, with the motto ^' misericordia et pax," are still visi- 
ble. But neither the modern part of this gable, the window in- 
serted in it, the bell turret that rises above k, nor the roof of the 
building, also of modern date, are at all in keeping with the 
other parts of the edifice. The large bell^ which was ooee the 
tenant of the lofty tower that rose from the centre of this church, 
is said to have been carried by Oliver Cromwell to Durham, 
where it is still to be seen, and where it is likely to remain, till a 
suitable habitation be provided for it, in the place of its former 
abode. 

The interior of the nave is truly magnificent. Ten massy clus- 
tered columns, 17 feet in height, with simple but elegantly mould- 
ed capitals, divide the ailes from the body of the &bric Of 
these columns, the circumference of each of the two nearest the 
west is more than double that of any of the others, plainly ladir 
eating that they were kitended by the architect, in connection with 
the front wall, to support two western towers. From the^impostB 
of the columns spring pointed arches, with delicate and gracefttl 
mouldings. On the centre pillar to the soulh is sculptured in re- 
lief an antique coat of arms with- grotesque supporters. Frem a 
floor formed above the first tier of absfaes q^iag these of the tr»- 
forium. They are large and setnicircukr, springing from clustered 



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PAISLEY. ^15 

columns, and areenriched with a variety of mouldings. Witbinthese 
finely sweeping arches, are included two pointed ones, cinque-foiled 
in the head, and separated from each other, by a short but delicately 
clustered column, with an ornamental capital. The space between the 
heads of theseminorarches,andthatoftheprincipalarch above them, 
is open to the body of the structure, and beautifully cusped. From 
the summit of the spandrils, between each pair of arches, a se- 
mi*hexagonal projection juts out about 3^ feet, supported by 
two ranges of blocked corbels, receding downwards. These pro- ' 
jections or platforms terminate, each in a sculptured grotesque fi« 
gure, which seems groaning under the weight. We are disposed 
to think, that the flat summits of these singular projections, while 
they served to form the clerestory walk or gallery, which passed al-> 
temately behind and in front of the pillars, were also intended to be 
used as stands for torch-bearers at the celebration, by night, of fu- 
neral or other rites. The arches and other appendages of the 
triforium are, so far as we have heard, peculiar. Above the trifo- 
rium rises the clerestory, the arches of which, opening also to the in- 
terior of the edifice, are simple, pointed, and narrow, but ofjust pro- 
portions, with clustered piers and plain, mouldings. The original roof, 
which has given place to a simple coved one, v^as finely groined 
with sculptured bosses, at the intersections of the ribs, of which a 
specimen is still to be seen, towards the west end of the southern 
aile. Near the roof of that aile, are two very small trefoil-head- 
ed niches, in which, as is supposed, images at one time stood. The 
modem eastern window, in the inside, is filled with stained glass, 
and beneath it, is a large white marble monument, erected by the 
county of Renfrew, in memory of the late William M^Dowall of 
Castle Semple and Garthland, Esq., who represented this coun* 
ty in five different Parliaments. Other monumental tablets, a few 
of modem, but many more of ancient date, and much de&ced, are 
arranged upon the walls of the building, or form part of the pave- 
ment of the area. 

The nave, which is now the church of this extensive parish, 
underwent a thorough repair in the year 1789. The pulpit, which 
is attached to the centre pier on the northern side is of oak, and 
surmounted by a chaste Gothic canopy, rising to a point, at a con- 
siderable height ; the pulpit and canopy are enriched with nume- 
rous carvings. The gallery is disposed around the whole edifice, 
and omamented with the armorial bearings of the principal heri- 
tors. For the comfort of the sitters, stoves were introduced into 

RBNFREW. P 



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216 RENFREWSHIRE. 

the church about six years ago; and it is at present, besides being 
one of the most magnificent, one of the most comfortable, places 
of worship in Scotland. 

The transept, although ruinous, still displays in the fair proper* 
tioos, and yet remaining beauty of its northern window, a most in- 
teresting relic of monastic grandeur. The window, about 35 feet 
in height, by 18 in breadth, occupies the greater part of the space 
that interrenes between the graduated buttresses, which support the 
northern angles of the transept. It is formed within an arch of beau* 
tiful proportions and of the decorated kind. The centre muUion still 
remains, dividing the window into two great lights, pointed and rich- 
ly cusped. The space between them and the great arch has been 
filled with flowing tracery, a considerable part of which may still be 
seen, as well as portions of similar work, in the laige windows that 
once adorned the sides of the transept. 

Two large pointed archways, now filled up with masonry, once 
formed a communication between the centre part of the church, 
and St Mirin's aile on the south. 

The choir, the walls of which are now levelled to within ten 
feet of the ground, presents an interesting relic of monastic times. 
The piscina or font, which still remains, with an accompanying 
niche on each side, is near the east end of the south wall. A little 
to the westi in the same wall, are four recesses, supposed to have 
been stalls or seats for the priests, during the celebration of high- 
mass. One of these recesses, indeed, has a groove in it, as if for 
shelving, which may give rise to the conjecture, that it was intend- 
ed rather as a vestiary than as a stall The other three, however, 
are without grooves. They are all cinquefoiled at top within 
the pointed arch, which is ornamented with beautifully carved 
work. 

The remains of the strong clustered pillars that supported the 
tower, which, surmounted by the lofty spire, once rose from the cen- 
tre of the building, are still to be seen. The tower, we are told, 
on one occasion, and before it was finished, had, by its own weight, 
and the insufficiency of its foundation, given way. It was afterwards 
rebuilt, at an immense expense, by John Hamilton, the last of the 
abbots. * We cannot say what was the cause or the precise pe- 
riod of its second fall. The account given by tradition of its de- 

* Porro Pasleti immensis suraptibus, Ecclesiae turrem, nuUi apud nos secuadam, 
extrtnxic Joannes ultimus archicpisoopus 8. Andrae, quae antca pamm finno nixu 
fiindamento, abaoluu mole sua coneiderat.— £^af(trM<. 



3 



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PAISLEY. 217 

struction isy that, ^* duringthe firsteflfervescence of the Reformation, 
the fabric was materially injured, and shortly afterwards its tall 
spire, said to have been 300 feet in height, having been struck by 
lightning, duringaviolentthunder storm, fell, demolishing at the same 
time, the roof of the choir."* Although the architecture of the choir 
has been remarked as plainer than that of the other parts of the 
church, yet it is not improbable that the windows were decorated 
with flowing tracery* 

St Mxririi AUe. — South of the nave or present church, and 
closely adjoining to it, is the cloister courty a quadrangle of about 60 
feet, the buildings around which still display evident traces of the 
piazza itselL From this court entrance is afforded to St Mirin's 
or the sounding aile, called also the Abercom chapel, a building on 
the east side of the court, of about 48 feet long by 24 broad, and 
well-paved, — about 15 feet of the floor at the east end being raised 
above the rest. In the east gable is a large and very handsome 
window, of four trefoil^headed lights, (though now blocked up,) the 
arches filled with tracery, composed chiefly of quatrefoils. Beneath 
this window is a series of sculptured figures, in tolerably bold re- 
lief, apparently of ecclesiastics engaged in various ofiices prescrib- 
ed by the Romish ritual. These figures are placed in a sort of 
belt, of about a foot and a-balf in width, extending between the 
two side walls, except in the space near the centre of the gable, 
where probably, at one time, an altar stood. This, with the pis- 
cina and its niche on the south wall, confirms the opinion of this 
structure having been the private chapel or oratory of the monks, 
whose magnificent church appears almost from the very first to have 
been put to general parochial use. On the north wall appear the 

* Renf. Char, and Seen. p. 35. Mackle, in his historical description, states, that 
the lofty spire, and a great part of the church, were demolished, in consequence of the 
following manifesto, issued by the rulers of the day. " Traist friends, after maist bartey 

commendation, we pray you fiiill not till pass incontinent to ye kirk of and 

takdown ye haill images yrof, and bryng ftirtfatill ye kirkyard, and birn thym opping. 
ly, and syklyk cast down ye altris and picturis, and purge ye sayd kirk o' a' kynds o* 
monuments of idolatrie ; and this ye fail not till doe, as ye will do us singular emplai- 
•anoe, and sae oommittis you till ye protection of God. From Edinburgh ye xii of 
August MDLX." Signed, " Argyle," " James Stewart,*' and " Ruthven." But 
with the opinion of this writer we cannot agree, as the above order was issued for 
the purpoae, not of deatroyiog the churches, but only of purging them of Uie images 
of a degrading superstition ; and although some in their zeal might be carried farther 
than prudence dictated, or than the rulers proposed by their manifesto, we can scarce- 
ly suppose o^sx reforming ancestors were bent on the work of reckless destruction, es- 
pecially as the following postscript is added to the manifesto : " and fail not, hot ye 
tak guide heed that nmther the desks, winnocks, nor doors be any wise hurt, or bro- 
ken, either sune work, glassine-work or iron-work.^ — See M<Lellan*s Cathedral of 
Glasgow ; a beautiftd and interesting work, lately published. 



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218 RENFREWSHIRE* 

two large arches, now filled up, tioticed ib our account of the trail- 
sept and choir. The roof is groined, the ribs springing diagonal* 
ly from two slender triplicated shafts on the southern side. Under 
the elevated pavement, at the east end, is a large vault 14 feet deep^ 
the burying place of the Abercom family ; and on the south wall, 
between the large arches we noticed, is an inscription in memory 
of some younger branches of the Hamilton fiunily. Nearly in the 
centre of the lower floor is an altar tomb, commonly called *< Queen 
Bleary's tomb," which, after lyingfor many years in a mutilated state, 
and exposed in the open air, was found, about twenty years ago^ among 
the fragments of other pieces of sculpture. It was reconstructedi 
coated with stone-coloured cement, and placed in its present position, 
under the direction of the late Dr Boog, to whose taste the inhabi- 
tants of Paisley are much indebted, not only for the transporta- 
tion of this monument, from the cloister court to its present sheltered 
situation, but also for the removal of those ignoble buildings, which, 
at one time shaded the western facade of the church, blocking up 
the great doorway, and part of the fine windows. Round the up- 
per part of the tomb is a series of compartments, filled with bold- 
ly sculptured figures of ecclesiastics, quatrefoils, and shields with 
armorial bearings. On the slab, which is the top of the monu- 
ment, projecting so as to form a kind of moulded cornice over the 
sides and ends of the tomb, is the figure of a female, in a recum- 
bent posture, with hands closed, in the attitude of prayer, the 
head resting on a cushion, and over the head an elegant canopy, 
of the kind common over Grothic niches. But whether this figure 
originally rested on the tomb, or whether all the parts put together 
belonged to the same tomb, or whether the tomb itself may not 
have been once an altar belonging to the private chapel, or to 
the parochial church, we cannot pretend to determine. 

This chapel being vaulted, and containing nothing but this 
monument, has an echo so remarkable as to have obtained for 
it the name of *' the sounding aile.*' Instrumental or vocal 
music performed in it has a curious effect, from the prolongation 
and consequent mingling of the notes. The noise and re- 
verberation arising from the sudden and forcible shutting of the 
door, after the entrance of a visitor, are often very startling. But 
on the whole, the account of their effects, as recorded by Pen- 
nant* and others, is rather exaggerated, or perhaps the erection of 

♦ Pennant's Tour. 

4 



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PAISLEY. 219 

the tomb within it, and the brick-work which closes up the beau- 
tiful window, have diminished the echo : which we are informed is 
liable to be considerably affected oy even the filling of an adjoin- 
ing building, used as a hay-loft, it being then less perceptible than 
when that loft is emptf; — a singular fact b acoustics, proving 
that not only the form of a building itself, but also the buildings 
with which it is connected, should be taken into account, when 
quantity of sound is a desideratum. 

The late Dr Boog wrote an account of << Queen Bleary's Tomb," 
which is published in Vol. ii* part 2 of ^^ the Transactions of 
the Society of the Antiquaries of Scotland." He seems to conjee* 
ture, from the figures in the east end of the aile being so differ- 
ent from any other work about the church, that they must be re- 
ferred to a period prior to that of the buildmg of the present &bric ; 
and he adds, ^' it is certain, from the foundation charter, that a 
church existed at Paisley before that time." In his account of 
the tomb, while he considers the basement as forming part of the 
monument, he puts no[faith in the Paisley tradition of its being that 
of Marjory Bruce.* This chapel, however, is generally consider- 
ed as having been built in 1499 by James Crawford ofKilwinnet, 
burgessof Paisley, and Elizabeth Galbraith, his wife, ^^ who found- 
ed, constituted, and ordained a chapel, with its chaplain, in the 
church of the parish of Paisley, on the south side thereof to the 
altar of St Mirin and Columba." For its support, the founders 
granted the lands and tenements of Seedhill and Welhneadow in 
perpetual alms. *^ The charter bears to have been sealed with 
the seals of the Lord Archbishop of Glasgow and chapter; of the 
granters; of the abbot and convent of Paisley ; of the burgh of Pais- 
ley, and others, to be obtained by grantees, or m their names. At 
Paisley, 15th July 1499."f Six seals havebeen appended, of which 
five still remain. 

Withm what formed the choir, and in the neighbouring grave- 
yard, as well as within the church, are many monumental stones, 
with inscriptions, interesting to the antiquary. Beautiful spe- 
cimens of these are to be seen engraved' in the first volume 
printed for the Maitland Club of Glasgow. Elizabeth More, and 
Eupheme Ross, consorts of Robert II., Robert III., with Walter 

* See Antia. Trans. VoL il. Part 2. pp. 4d6, 461. On this subject, some curious 
eoi\jretunl inrormation may be found in appendix 3d, to the volume of thu MaitUiid 
Uttb for 1831. 

f Charter in Uie charter-chott of the town of Paisley. 



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220 RENFREWSHIRE. 

the great Steward^ sind his lady, are among the distinguished per- 
sons said to be interred in the monastery. 

PreAytery. — On the establishment of the Reformed church of 
Scotland, a presbytery was erected at Glasgow, and another at 
Dumbarton, to the former of which the* parishes in the eastern 
part of Renfrewshire were attached, and to the latter those in the 
western. But in 1590, all the parishes in this county, with the ex- 
ception of those of Eaglesham and Cathcart, only part of which last 
is in Renfrewshire, were formed into a presbytery, the seat of which 
was fixed at Paisley. This arrangement continued till May 1834, 
when, by a deed of the General Assembly, a presbytery was esta- 
blished in the lower ward of the county, having its seat at Green- 
ock, and to which that yenerable court attached, in addition to 
seven parishes formerly connected with the presbytery of Paisley, 
the parish of Largs in Aryshire, and that of Cumbray in Buteshire, 
both of which formerly belonged to the presbytery of Irvine. Pre- 
vious to this division, the presbytery of Paisley contained 19 pa^ 
rishes and 20 ministers, the Abbey parish being collegiate. It was 
by the division left with only 12 parishes and 13 ministers. But, 
in consequence of the erection of chapels into parish churches, 
which took place in the same year, and the subsequent increase of 
churches within its bounds, that Presbytery now contains, with one 
exception, as many parishes and ministers as it did previous to the 
division ; and although for two years it returned to the General 
Assembly a minister and elder less than formerly, yet it is again 
entitled to return the same number as it did before the erection 
of the presbytery of Greenock. 

Although since the year 1570, Paisley has been the seat of a 
presbytery, the meetings have not been uniformly held in that 
town. On account of the pestilence in 1645, the court resolved, 
on the 6th of November of that year, to hold their meetings at 
Houston, and this they accordingly did, till the 26th of March, 
in the following year, when they resumed their sederunts at Pais- 
ley.* We find also that between the 26th of July 1676, and the 
5th of March 1684, the meetings of presbytery were held at 
Renfrew, probably from the ministers who then officiated at Pais- 
ley having refused to countenance the jurisdiction of the Episco- 
pal presbytery, in matters of church discipline, f By the archbi- 

* *< The pretbiterie oonTeent at Houstoune, iii respect of the Tuitatioii of the pes- 
tilence at Paisley, and resolvit to continew their presbiterial seate at Houstouney tiU 
it pleasit God that Padey were free of that seeknes.**— Presbytery Records. 

t Presbytery Records. 



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PAISLEY. 221 

shop, this practice was ordered to be discontinued, and the pres- 
bytery were enjoined to hold their meetings at Paisley, the pro- 
per seat. Accordingly, the first meeting of that court, after the 
injunctions of the Archbishop, was held at Paisley on the 5th of 
March 1684. * 

On the introduction of Episcopacy in 1661, the presbytery was 
broken up; but it was reconstructed in 1663, by an act of the 
archbishop and synod. The first meeting, under this new regime, 
was held on the 29th of October 1663, when the whole presby- 
tery consisted of only five members, -f- with two correspondents 
from the presbyteries of Glasgow and Dumbarton. % 

At the era of the Revolution, another change seems to have 
taken place in the constitution of this presbytery. For we learn 

* ** Paisley, March 5, 1684.*' ** No exercise this day, because of some disturban- 
ces at the brethren's first meeting at Paisley. The exercise is continued on Mr Wil- 
soo."— 'Presbytery Records. 

t ^^ John Hay, parson of Renfrew, moderator ; James Taylor, Greenock ; Wil. 
liam Pieraon, Paisley; Andrew Abercromie, Kilmalcolm; and Alexander Turner, 
NeilstOQ."— Presbytttiry Records. 

t At the time of the <• Act of Uniformity," 1663, by which 400 of the most zeal- 
oua and able ministers of the Church of Scotland were ejected from their parishes, 
the presbytery of Paisley consisted of 16 ministers, of whom one only conformed to 
prelacy ; a tecond did conform, but it was at a later period. The name of the first 
of these was Mr James Taylor, of Greenock ; and that of the second, Mr John Ha* 
miltoD of Innerkip. The names of th^ rest, all of whom suffered ** the loss of all 
things,** rather than abandon their principles, were as follows, and they deserve to be 
held on honourable record : — Mr Alexander Dunlop, Mr John Drysdale, and Mr 
James Stirling, all of Paisley ; Mr John Stirling of Kilbarchan ; Mr Patrick Simp- 
son of Renfrew ; Mr Hugh Smith of Eastwood ; Mr William Thomson of Mearns ; 
Mr William Thomson of Houston ; Mr James Hutchison of Killallan ; Mr James 
Alexander of Kilmalcolm ; Mr Hugh Peebles of Lochwinnoch ; Mr James Wallace of 
Inchinnan ; and Mr Hugh Walker of Neilston. " These persons were not only deprived 
of their livinss in time to come, but of the l«styear*f stipend fur which they had served ; 
and in the wmter season (December 1663,) obliged, with sorrowful hearts and empty 
pockets, to wander I know not how many miles with their numerous and small &• 
milies, many of them scarce knew whither. But tlie Lord wonderfully provided for 
them and theirs, to their own confirmation and wonder." — Wodrow's Hist. Vol. 
i. p. 320. 8vo ed. 

On December 14. 1670, an interesting meeting was specially held at Paisley, betwixt 
Archbishop Leightonand Bishop Burnet, on the part of the Episcopalians, and the 
brethren of Paisley, Glasgow, and neighbourhood, in the Presbyterian interest, with 
the view of bringing about an ** accommodation" between the parties. A full report 
of this meeting is given by Wodrow in the second volume of his History, (2d ed.) 1 1 
ended in smoke. The Presbyterians were not satisfied of the sincerity of the mo- 
tives which led to the proposal ; and the Episcopalians were not prepared to grant 
such concessions as would please the conscientious adherents of presbytery. In 1679 
a meeting of persecuted Presbyterian ministers was held at Paisley, when a whole- 
some warning was drawn up by them against popery, together with a short vindica- 
tion of Presbyterian piinciples, but the paper was never printed. ** After this,** says 
Wodrow, ^^ till the Revolution, Presbyterian ministers had few or no meetings; and 
I shall have little more to say of them, but that they remained in retirement, few ven- 
turing to preach in the fields, and some now and then in houses. And through the 
following years I shall have little more to relate^ but a continued scene of persecu- 
tion of ministers and people, and heavy oppression of the whole country.** — Wodrow 
Vol. iii. p. 176. 



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223 RENFREWSHIRE. 

that after the liberty granted in July 1687, the three presbyteries 
of Glasgow, Paisley, and Dumbarton, from the small number of 
ministers in each, fermed themselves into one presbytery, whose 
meetings seem to have been held in Glasgow, as from one of our 
presbytery minutes, it appears that the actings of the court at that 
period, are recorded in the book of the presbytery of Glasgow. 
This arrangement continued only for a few months, as the presby- 
tery of Paisley appear to have resumed their meetings at their own 
seat in December following.* 

PreAytery Records. — As Paisley has long been the seat of a 
presbytery, and as the original parish, of which we are giving an 
account, comprehends more than one*half of the parishes now in- 
cluded within the bounds of that presbytery, it seems natural for 
us to take some notice of its records. They are preserved in four- 
teen volumes. 

The first volume commences 1 6th September 1602, and termi- 
nates abruptly 24th December 1607, part of the record having been 
evidently lost or destroyed. The volume has suffered from damp» 
but is entire, and perfectly legible so far as it goes. 

The second volume commences 20th April 1 626, and ends 9tb 
September 1647. This volume is in tolerable preservation. 

The third volume hassuflTered more firom damp than any of the 
preceding, and the edges of a few of the pages at the beginning have 
decayed, but there is not much obliteration in consequence. It 
commences 22d September 1647, although the date is worn away 
and the first page happens to be bound up between the third and 
fourth leaves. ^* A copy of the Acts anent the Discipline of the Kirk 
apud Glasgow 8 Aprilis 1612," has been introduced at the begin-> 
ning of the volume. It ends 29th March 1660, but has the synod's 
docquet dated 4th October 1660. 

The fourth volume commences 25th April 1660, but stops short 
at the 6th page, after entering the minute of the sederunt of June 
18th of the same year. Several blank leaves then occur, and at 
page 19th commence the transactionsfrom December 27, 1687, thus 
omitting the record of the proceedings of the whole Episcopal pe- 

* The following is the minute on the occasion, (27tb Dec 1687,) *< After the liber- 
ty in July 1667, by the appointment of the grail meeting at £dr. in August, in ye 
year forsd, the presbitaries of Glasgow, Paaley, and Dumbrittone» did joine together 
and made up one presbitrie, by reasone of the paucitie of minrs which continued 
until Deer, of ye sd year. The actings of qch are to be found in the presbiteri* 
book of Glasgow.'* — Presbytery Reconis. 



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PAISLEY. 223 

riod^ from 16th October 1668^ to 7th September 1687, which are 
coDtained in a separate volume, being the fifth. 

The cause of this is somewhat curious. When the change to 
Episcopacy took place, and broke up the presbytery, Mr James 
Stirling, then minister of Paisley, retained the presbytery book, 
the volume of records now described as the fourth, and having the 
minutes of court written up only to the 13th of June 1660, and 
that on six pages. After this volume, the Episcopal clergymen, 
who succeeded Mr Stirling and his brethren, made many inqui- 
ries, but all their attempts to procure it were unsuccessful. Robert 
Park, late clerk to the presbytery, was summoned, 31st August 
1665, to give an account of what had become of the volume, as the 
want of it occasioned many scandals, for which satisfaction was not 
made, to be buried, or forgotten. He did not appear on the day 
mentioned, on account, it is said, of sickness ; but on the 14th of 
the following month, he gave in a paper subscribed by his own 
hand, solemnly declaring, that ^' Mr James Stirling, late minister 
at Pasley, came and received the presbytery records from him."* 
The presbytery afterwards consulted the synod on the subject, but 
Mr Stirling having gone to India, they were obliged to submit to 
the want of the book, and accordingly commenced a record of their 
proceedings in another volume. After the Revolution, when many 
of the old ministers returned to their charges, inquiry was again 
made after the volume that had been so long amissing, and it was 
found in the possession of Mr James Stirling, minister of Kilbar- 
chan, nephew of Mr Stirling, formerly minister of Paisley. In con- 
sequence of this, the presbytery, at a meeting on the 5th of Febru- 
ary 1690, appointed Mr Stirling to deliver up the old presbytery 
book,f at the next meeting, which he accordingly did on the 16th 
of April following. Inquiry was also made after the minutes from 
1660 to the Revolution, or during the Episcopal period. But this 
inquiry proving unsuccessful, the presbytery seem to have left the 
blank leaver between pages 6th and 19th, in order that these 
minutes, should they ever afterwards be found, might be inserted in 
their proper place, and to have commenced to engross their pro- 
cedure from 27th December 1687, on page 19th of this vo- 
lume, which is styled " the old presbytery book." Hence the ap- 
pearance which tl^i^ book presents, and hence has this volume com- 

• Minutes of Presbytery. f Presbytery records. 



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224 RENFREWSHIRE. 

pletely escaped any admixture of Episcopal leaven. This volume 
closes with the minute of 26th October 1699. 

The fifth volume, already mentioned, contains the minutes from 
16th October 1663, to 7th September 1687. The history of this 
volume, which contains the minutes of proceedings during the Epis« 
copal period, is also somewhat singular* We have already no- 
ticed the unsuccessful inquiry made by our fathers after the mi- 
nutes of this period. After a lapse of nearly a century and ap-half, 
Mr Douglas, then presbytery clerk, the present minister of Kilbar- 
chan, having got a slight hint of a volume having been seen in a 
private library, belonging to a family in Lorn, apparently forming 
part of the records of the presbytery of Paisley, immediately insti« 
tuted a correspondence on the subject, and after the lapse of a 
considerable time, during which his correspondence was going 
on, he had the satisfaction of delivering it up to the presbytery 
about twelve years ago, for which he received from that court an 
unanimous vote of thanks. How this volume found its way to 
Lorn, we cannot say; but Mr Douglas in a note to us, says, ^^ this 
light volume (for it is not at all ponderous) had found its way, I 
presume, to that district of Argyllshire, through some one clergy- 
man or layman, $ retainer of the Episcopal church, who seems to 
have inferred his title to retain the record in question, on the same 
principle on which more important documents found their way to 
Zion College."* 

The sixth volume commences 7th November 1699, and ter- 
minates with the minute of 10th September 1707. 

The seventh volume brings down the minutes from 7th Octo- 
ber 1707, to 18th July 1722 : the eighth from 8th August 1722, 
to 19th of March 1735; the ninth, from 1st April 1735, to 26th 
September 1752 ; the tenth, from 25th October 1752, to 2dd 
October 1774; the eleventh, from 30th November 1774, to 7tb 
July 1790 ; the twelfth, from 5th August 1790, to 4th Septem- 
ber 1800; the thirteenth, from 3d December 1800, to 7th May 
1823; and the fourteenth, from 4th June 1823, to the date of 

* The first notice of this volume, Mr Douglas had from Mr Storie, of Rosekieath, 
and his correspondence was with Dr Campbell of Kilninv^r, and Hugh M'Lach. 
Ian, Esq. writer, Glasgow, the last of whom is the person who put it into his hands. 
It is singular enough that it should be to the minister of Kilbarchan, the presbytery 
are indebted for the recovery of both of these volumes. May we not hope, that he or 
our present presbytery clerk may yet get some " slight hint," which may lead to the 
recovenr of a volume, which at present seems to be lost, containing the minutes be- 
tween IG07 and 1626, and which ought to be the second volume of the records? 



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PAISLEY. 225 

the last meetiDg of presbytery, which was held on the 1st of this 
month, February 1837. 

Parishes of Paisley, — Since 1641, the old or Abbey parish of 
Paisley has had the benefit of two ministers. In that year the 
minister, Mr Calvert, agreed to give a colleague out of his stipend, 
(originally 16 chalders of meal,) <^ 5 chalders, and that according 
to the act of high commission, and promised, moreover, that he 
would give a chalder more, provided the entrant should be agree- 
able to the presbytery, the parish, and himself."* The stipend of 
the charge, thus erected, has since received several augmentations, 
and it now consists of 22 chalders, half meal and half barley, with 
L. 15 for communion elements, f The stipend of the first charge, 
which was augmented in 1830, is 22 chalders, half meal and 
half barley, with L. 20 for communion elements, and about L. 19 
as compensation for grass glebe. The arable glebe, including 
the site of the manse, consists of about 4^ acres, and is well situ- 
ated for letting out as garden ground. This charge has a manse 
attached to it. The present one was built in 1824, and reflects 
great credit on the taste and liberality of the heritors. 

From the increase of population in the parish, particularly 
in the town, an additional church became necessary, and accord- 
ingly in 1736, the burgh was erected into a separate parish, by 
adecreet of the Lords Commissioners for the plantation of churches. 
At the same time, a charter was obtained from Lord Dundonald, 
the patron of the parish, granting liberty to the magistrates and 
community to build within the burgh, a church or churches, of 
which the patronage was to be vested in the magistrates and town- 
council. In consequence of the arrangements they entered into, 
a church was erected in 1736, as the parish church of the burgh 
of Paisley. From the continued increase of the population, ad- 
ditional ^church accommodation became again necessary, and in 
the year 1756, another place of worship was erected. Being built 
on the height called Oakshawhead, the highest part of the town, 
it was distinguished by the name of the High Churchy and the for- 
mer erection, from its relative situation, was denominated the 
Laigh Kirk or Low Church. In the space of other twenty- 
five years, the population still rapidly increasing, it was found ne- 

• Sut. Act. VoL vii. p. 94. 

t There was once a bouse attached to this charge, although it seems never to have 
been recc^iaedas a manse. It was the gift of the town to tlie second minister, who 
had the special charge of the burgh. 



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226 RENFREWSHIRE. 

cessary to add a third church, to the two already in existence ; 
and accordingly, this was done in 1781, by its erection, near to 
the site of the High Church ; and this place of worship, from its 
relative situation, received the name of the Middle Church. The 
, burgh of Paisley, which till the erection of this third church, had 
continued one parish, was on the 20th of February of that year, 
by a deed of the Court of Teinds divided into three parishes, called 
each from its particular churches, the Low Church parish, the 
High Church parish, and the Middle Church parish. The patron- 
age of these churches belongs to the magistrates and town-council* 
The original stipend allocated to the minister of the burgh of Pais- 
ley was 1000 merks Scots, with an allowance in lieu of a manse 
and glebe. This, as well as the stipends of the other two ministers, 
has been several times augmented, and now the stipend of each 
is L. 300 per annum, communion elements being provided by the 
council and kirk session. The stipends are paid out of the funds 
or common good of the burgh. 

A small addition to church accommodation in the burgh was 
again made in the year 1819, when St George's Church was erect- 
ed. This, however, was merely an increase of 600 sittings, in the 
Low Church parish, for the minister of the Low Church was trans- 
ferred to this new erection, which was constituted by the presby- 
tery, and still continues to be, the church of that parish, while the 
old Low Church is no longer used as a church in the establishment. 
Such Is all the provision, which the law has made smce the period 
of the Reformation, for the spiritual interests of this extensive dis- 
trict, with its great and rapidly increasing population. Its scanty 
nature will appear, if it be considered, that in the original parish 

There is a population of 26177 with ehurch seaU for 11 50 

In St George's or Low Church parish, G949 . .1860 

In High Church parish, . 14992 . . 2000 

Id Middle Church parish, . 9762 . .1500 

67880 6600 

To remedy the want of church accommodation in these pa- 
rishes, six chapels, including a Gaelic church, have been erected. 
All of these have been raised to the rank of parish churches, each, 
with the exception of the Gaelic one, having a parochial district 
assigned to it The Gaelic Church was built in 1793, and although 
situated in the High Church parish, is intended for the accommo- 
dation of the Highlanders in general, in Paisley and its neigh- 
bourhood. The oldest of the other five is the church of John- 
ston, in the western district of the Abbey parish, built in the year 



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PAISLEY. 227 

1793. Another was opened for public worship, at Levern, inthe 
south-eastern district of the parish, on the 23d of March 1835, to 
which a pastor has been since ordained. In the burgh three 
similar places of worship have been erected, called the North 
Church ; Martyi^s Church ; and the South Church ; and all of 
them are already provided with ordained clergymen. A great ad- 
dition has been thus made to the church accommodation and pas- 
toral superintendence of our destitute population. Still, however, 
unless these places of worship be so endowed as to admit of a num- 
ber of seats being set apart for the poor, and the whole let at very 
moderate rents, the objects of an establishment will be but partial- 
ly answered. 

The additional church accommodation, obtained in consequence 
of these erections, may be stated as follows : 

5 Johnston 1000 ) 

} Levem, 670 = 1670+ 1 150 in Abbey, «2820 t 

5 Gaelic, 1360 I 

I Martyrs, 1250 » 2600+2000 High. »4600 f 

North, 1000 +1600 Middle, =3r>00 

South, 1004 + 1 860 St George's., 2854 

There is thus church accommodation to the amount of 12,774 

sittings provided by the Establishment, for the whole population 
of the town and parishes of Paisley, amounting to 57,880. To 
each of the clergymen of these new churches, a bond of provision is 
granted, varying from L. 80 to L. 100. But it is understood that 
the bond shall merely specify the minimum stipend, while it is ex- 
pected that the income will always considerably exceed that small 
sunu Besides his stipend, the minister of the Gaelic Church has 
a manse, lately built for him, by his congregation. 

The small amount of church accommodation, as well as pastoral 
superintendence provided by the Establishment in this place, would 
have been more severely felt by our population, had it not been 
for the laudable exertions of our dissenting brethren, who, to a con- 
siderable extent, have remedied the evil In these parishes, there 
are eleven different churches belonging to presbyterian dissenters 
viz. one to the Reformed Presbytery; one to the Old Burghers; 
three to the Relief; and six to the United Secession. There are 
also several bodies of Independents, including Methodists, Baptists, 
Glassites, Unitarians, and Universalists. In Paisley, there is also 
an Episcopal chapel, which was recently erected, and in the new 
town, is the only Roman Catholic Chapel within the bounds of 
this presbytery. The duties of the priest extend to a population 



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228 



RENFREWSHIRE. 



of about 7000, chiefly immigrants from Ireland, one-half of whom 
may be reckoned as residing within the parishes of Paisley. 

The accommodation provided by these different denominations 
may be stated as follows : 

By the Reformed Presbytery, . . - 1000 

Old Burghers, ... aoO 

United SeoearioD» ... 6540 

Relief, .... 4290 

Independents of difTerent classes, - 2600 

Episcopalians, ... 400 

Roman Catholics, - - 1000 

l^ldO 

The ministers of the Presbyterian dissenting churches are paid 
by their hearers, and their different stipends may be stated as vary- 
ing from L. 100 to L. 250 per annum. Three of them are pro- 
vided each with a house and garden. 

The following table exhibits the numbers connected with the 
different denominations in these parishes, with the number of sit- 
tings in the churches, and communicants belonging to each deno- 
mination. In this table, the children are reckoned to belong to 
the denomination of the head of the family. 

Abbey parish, No. of families, 5377 Total population, 26177 

Low parish, 1555 6949 

High parish, - 3279 149^2 

Middle parish, 1994 9762 



12205 



578H0 



Is 



H if §^ 1^ 



PS 






Abbey parish, 14049 510 526 

Low parish, 3229 101 76 

High parish, 5547 402 164 

Middle parish, 5134 355 141 



322 3926 2845 1237 1799 

16 1108 636 467 262 

35 2390 1372 1144 727 

35 1203 621 431 1158 



27959 1368 907 408 8627 5474 3279 3946 




Abbey parish, 
Low parish, 
High parish. 
Middle parish, 



11165 963 

2666 1054 

6234 3211 

3944 684 



4146 
1011 
1965 
1868 



4055 8201 

972 1983 

2178 4143 

1425 3293 



2841 


2679 


5520 


667 


617 


1284 


1439 


1331 


2770 


1324 


1183 


2507 



24009 5912* 8990 8630 17620 6271 5810 12061 



• The marked difference of eomparetive numbers belonging to this clan in the 



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PAISLEY. 



229 



The difltriets assigned to the new churches, with the exception 
of a small part of Leyern, are all taken from the overgrown parishes 
included in this report. The numbers and denominations within 
their bounds are included in the above table. Still it may be sa- 
tis&ctory to have these particulars stated in regard to the new pa- 
rishes, so fitr as they have been obtained. The following table 
exhibits the numbers and denominations assigned from the Abbey 
to the parishes of Johnston* and Levem.-|- 

JohnsUiD, No. of families, 1194 Levern, No. of families. 330 

1812 



No. of families, 
Total population. 



1194 
6617 



Levem, No. of families. 
Total population. 



Johnstone, 
Levern, 



•s . 
II 



311S42ill068B74 



123253! 1 



123 



601 



III 



H.S ^ 



I53}dl0|2358 

I 32.5i 565 



2S 



M 



951 
4131 



3 1 

.21 



73311084 
1411 664 






846 

188 






4 



5831429 
*681256 



About 1600 of the inhabitants of Charleston, out of a popula- 
tion of 4000, have been placed under the superintendence of the 
minister of the South Church, The other part of his pastoral 
charge is detached from St George's parish. The districts assign • 
ed as parishes to the other two new churches are taken each from 
the old parish, within whose bounds the church is situated, and 
comprise each a population of from 3000 to 3600. 

The new places of worship are not yet filled. But since their 
opening, in the course of two years, they have added upwards of 
1000 to the number of sitters in the Establishment, — an evident 
proof of the former want of church accommodation, in this place, 

four parishes cannot (ail to attract notice, llie difference is owing entirely to the 
different principUt on which the survey was made. In the Abbey and Middle pa^ 
rifihes, the question was decided by the replies of the parties themselves. In the High 
and Low parishes, the question as to religious profession was determined, not exclu- 
sively by the claims of the parties, but by the actual information possessed by the el- 
ders Vf?w made the scrutitti/, and by the replies that were given to such speciSc ques- 
tions as. What church do you attend? How many sittings have you ? What is the 
name of the minister you hear? &c. After all, even in this way, we only approximate 
to the truth ; >nd we strongly fear, that the numbers, even as marked in the High 
and Low pacbhes, fall considerably short of those degraded masses of corrupt society 
which are sunk in aH the darkness of a state of practical atheism. 

* The reason of so great a population having been assigned to the minister of John- 
ston, is, that the same district was placed imder his superintendence forty years ago, 
when the population, within the perambulated bounds, was only about 1500, and it was 
not thought advisable to make any change in this arrangement, that populous place 
being regarded more in the light of an overgrown parish, than as a portion to be de- 
tached from the Abbey. 

t In addition to the 1R00 from the Abbey, it is proposed to add to the Levern 
about 400 from the parishes of Neilston and Eastwood, whose residence is in the 
neighbourhood of that place of worship, making in all about 2200. 



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230 REN FRKWSHIRE. 

as well as of the attachment of the inhabitants to the church of 
their fathers. The other churches are, generally speaking, well 
attended. 

Ministers. — After the period of the Reformation, the first indi- 
vidual whom we find on record, as minister of Paisley, is 

Patrick Adamson,* who was afterwards promoted to the arch- 
bishoprick of St Andrews, and is particularly noticed in the his- 
tory of the church. He is mentioned as minister of Paisley in 
1573. He was made archbishop in 1576, and after a life of many 
singular reverses, died in 1591. His successor seems to have been 

Andrew Polwart, afterwards subdean of Glasgow. 

Thomas Smeaton is mentioned as next in succession, in 1578b 
He succeeded Andrew Melville as Principal of the College of 
Glasgow in 1580, and died on the Idth December 1583, in the 
forty-seventh year of his age. He was a man of prodigious learn- 
ing, and admired for the virtues of his private life, as well as the 
elegance of his scholarship.f 

Andrew Knox, of the fitmily of Ramfurlie ( Ranfiirlie), from which 
the celebrated John Knox is also descended, is next on the list 
He seems to have been translated from the church of Lochwin- 
noch, to that of Paisley, about the year 1585, in which he conti- 
nued till the year 1606, when King James, having restored the es- 
tates of the bishops, Mr Knox was promoted to the bishoprick of 
the Isles. He was again translated by the King, in 1622, to the 
Episcopal see of Raphoe in Ireland ; when his son Mr Thomas 
Knox, was advanced to the bishoprick of the Isles. Andrew Knox 
is the supposed ancestor of the Viscounts Northland, lately created 
Barons of Ransfiirlie. He seems to have been esteemed a man 
of learning, free of bigotry, and averse from all manner of perse- 
cution on account of matters of church-government So liberal 

* Mr Patrike Adunaonef minister, vj. zx lb to be p-^yit of the thryddis of Pas- 
laji Noyember 1672. R^eister of ministers, 1567, pafe 35, printed for the Maitland 
Club in ]8d0. 

« {* The following is the account which honest James Melville in his '* Diary** has 
given of Mr Smeaton. '< Mr Thomas was verie wacriff and peanfull, and skurshe tuk 
tym to refresh nature. I haiff seen him oft find fault with lang denners and suppera 
at general assemblies ; and when uthers wer therat, he wald abstain, and be abut the 
penning of things (wherein he ezcellit, bathe in langage and form of letter) and yit 
was nocht rustic, nor auster but sweit and affable in companie, with a modest and 
naive graivite ; verie frugale in fude and reyment ; and, walked maist on Jut ; whom 
I was verie ^lad to accompanie, whylis to Sterling, and now and then to his kirk, for 
my instruction and comfort. He lovit me exceeding well, and wald at parting thrust 
my head into his bosom and kiss me.** pp. 56, 58. He was chosen to succeed Mel- 
ville as Principal of Glasgow CoU^e in 1560, where he was sole Pro&ssor of Di- 
vini^, and was also minister of Govan. He was Moderator of Assembly 1583; and 
he died on the 13th December of the same year. 



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PAISLEY. !231 

were his apinions, that, in eonjunction with some clergymen of Pres- 
byterian principles, he concurred in ordaining several ministers of 
that communion, giving as his reason, that ^^ he thought his old 
age prolonged for little other purpose, but to do such good oflSces 
for the propagation of the Gospel." He died in 1682.* On bis 
translation, 

Patrick Hamilton was appointed minister. This appointment 
seems to have been made in 1 607/ He was previously minister of 
Lqchwinnoch. 

Robert Boyd of Trochrig, in the shire of Ayr, eldest son of 
James, " Tulchan," — Archbishop of Glasgow, was admitted mini- 
ster of Paisley, on the 1st of January 1626. Previous to this time, 
he had been successively Principal of the Colleges of Bldinburgh 
and Glasgow, and was universally esteemed one of the most 
learned, liberal, and pious men of his age. His manse was the 
" fore house of the abbey." Wodrow relates, that, one Sunday 
afternoon, the master of Paisley, brother to the Earl of Abercom, 
with some others, forcibly entered his house while he was preach- 
ing, cast all his books on the ground, and afterwards locked the 
door. Complaint of the aggression having been made to the se- 
cret council, the Master of Paisley and the baillies were summon- 
ed to appear before them. But at the intercession >)f Boyd, and 
on the Master expressing contrition for the wrong he had done, the 
complaint- was departed from, and Trochrig was ordered to be re- 
possessed. The baillies apparently yielded obedience to the com- 
mand of the secret council, and endeavoured to put Boyd in 

* In the year 1592, the country was much disturbed by apprehenuons of the secret 
workings of the Papists, and rat^asures were adopted for the purpose of counteracting 
them. In each presbytery an individual was nominated to watch their proceedings, 
to collect information from his brethren, and to correspond with a committee, which 
was to at in Edinburgh for the common safety. Andrew Knox was appointed the 
oorrespooiding member from the presbytery of Paisley, but deeds and not words were 
fitted for the eager spirit of the future bishop. Having received secret intelligence 
that George Ker,* a Doctor of Laws, and brother of Lord Newbattle, was about to 
proceed to Spain, with secret letters from the disaffected Lords, accompanied by a 
number of stud^ts of the College of Glasgow, he proceeded to the Island of Cumbray, 
and seized htm. On his person were found letters from certain priests in Scotland, 
and blanks subscribed by|^e Earls of Huntly, Angus, and Enrol, with a commission 
to one Crighton a Jes-uit, to fill up the blanks, and address them to those for whom 
they were intended. These papers, with Ker*s confession, dtsclosed the notable pro- 
ject by which the King of Spain was to land 30,000 men on the west coast of Scot- 
land, who, in ctinjuuction with the troops to be ftimished by the three earls, were to 
suppress the Protestant, and to procure the re* establishment, of the Roman Catholic 
religion in Scotland. 

Much information regarding him may be obtained in the earlier part of Vol. i. of 
Dr Rcid*s valuable ^* History of the Presbyterian Church in Ireland,** and in « Gre- 
gory's Account of the Isles.** 

* Some accounts say erroneously, Barclay of Ladyland. 
RENFREW. Q 

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232 RENFREWSHIRE. 

possession of his house; but the locks were found filled with 
stones and other articles, and the baillies refused to break open the 
doors. On Mr Boyd retiring, he was grossly assaulted by the 
women, with opprobrious speeches, the men having purposely ab- 
sented themselves. They threw dirt and stones at him, actually 
compelling him to leave Paisley, and retire to Glasgow. A complaint 
was made by the Bishop of Glasgow, of the disgraceful treatment 
of this worthy clergyman ; but little or no justice was administer- 
ed to him, the noble aggressors being allowed to depart, on pro- 
mising to repossess the minister, and allow him the peaceAil enjoy- 
ment of his house. The ** rascally women," as Wodrow calls them, 
also escaped merited punishment Trochrig, however, never again 
exercised his ministry at Paisley, but died at Edinburgh, on the 
5th of January 1627, * in the forty-ninth year of his age. 

Mr John Hay is mentioned as having succeeded Mr Boyd in 
his charge, on the 21st May 1627. He had been formerly mi- 
nister of Killellan, and he afterwards left Paisley to fill his father's 
place in Renfrew, about the year 1628. 

Mr John Crighton, who is denominated parson of Camp»e, was 
admitted to this charge, by licence of the Archbishop of Glasgow, 
on the 1st of September 1629. He was a man of a singular cha- 
racter, and having been accused of erroneous doctrine^ and other 
misdemeanours, he was deposed by the General Assembly held at 
Glasgow, on the 21st of November 1638. 

Henry Calvert, his successor, was ordained on the 1st July 1641. 
It was this incumbent who made provision for a colleague mini- 
ster, and the reason assigned for this is, that the charge had be- 
come " an over great burden to one." His colleague was appoint- 
ed in October 1644. A few years after this arrangement had been 
entered into, it appears that Mr Calvert's health had become in- 
firm, for in October 1650, his confirmed disability induced him- 
self and his colleague, with the parishioners of Paisley, to sup* 
plicate the presbytery to concur with them, in inviting Mr John 
Drysdale, who had left Ireland on account of persecution, to sup- 
ply Mr Calvert's place. The presbytery having acceded to their 
wish, Mr Drysdale was appointed assistant to Mr Calvert, with 
a stipend of 700 merks, provided by the parish, during Mr Cal- 
vert's lifetime. On Mr Calvert's death, and the succession of 
Mr Dunlop, his colleague, to the first charge, the second charge 

* Wodrow*8 life of Trochrig, MS. as referred to by Mackie, in hit Hisr. Deacrip. 
of Abbey and Town of Paisley. 



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PAISLEY. 233 

was filled not by Mr Drysdale, but by Mr Stirliug. Mr Drys- 
dale, however, appears to have continued at Paisley. For on the 
establishment of Episcopacy in J 661, he incurred the displeasure 
of the government for his nonconformity, and having been charged 
with turbulent and seditious practices, the Earl of Eglinton, as 
Sheriff of Renfrew, was ordered to seize his person, and send him 
in to the council, by the 9th of December. Mr Drysdale ab- 
sconded, and, as Wodrow conjectures, fled to Ireland. 

Alexander Dunlop was removed from the second to the first 
charge, on the 28th December 1653. He wad of the house of 
Dunlop in Ayrshire, a branch of the Dunlops of Achenskeitb. 
He married Jean, daughter of William Mure of Glanderaton, and 
was father of the celebrated William Dunlop, Principal of the Col- 
lege of Glasgow. On account of bis opi>osition to Episcopacy, 
he Was, after being unsuccessfiiUy dealt with by the council, silenced 
from preaching, but allowed to return to bis family. At length, 
an the 6th of January 1663^ he was summoned before the council, 
and having refused to take and subscribe the usual oaths, '^ the 
Lords of Council ordained him to be banished forth of his Majesty's 
dominions, reserving to themselves to prefix the time of his re- 
moval; and, in the meantime, ordain him to confine himself 
within the bounds of the diocesses of Aberdeen, Brechin, Caith- 
ness, Dunkeld, and allow him the space of ten days, to go home, 
and order .his business and affiurs.^' ^^ He was," says Wodrow, 
^ a person of eminent piety, and extraordinary diligence and learn- 
ing, and singular prudence, and sweetness of temper. He has 
left behind him, among other valuable papers, collections towards 
a system of divinity in English, which, had he been able to have 
put in order, would have been one of the most valuably bodies of 
divinity which have been drawn up/' * 

William Pierson appears as minister of Paisley, in the first 
presbytery, under the new order of church government, which 
was held at Paisley on the 29th of October 1663. Mr Pierson 
having been afterwards presented to Dunfermline, received his 
ordinary's demission, and a testimonial of his carriage from his 
brethren, on the 6th of February 1666. 

James Chambers succeeded him in 1667, and continued mi- 
nister of Paisley till 1669 ; for we find, 

• Wodrow's Hist. Vol. i. p. 818, 8m ed. 

" In this calm (the indemnity after Pendand, December 1607,) Mr Alexander 
Dunlop, and Mr James Ferguson, two eminent Presbyterian rainisCers, died. "..-lb. 
VoL ii. p. 100. 



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284 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Matthew Ramsay mentioned as his successor, on the 2d of Sep- 
tember 1669. Mr Ramsay had been minister of Kilpatrick, from 
which office he was deposed in 1665, ^* for no cause alleged but 
his not attending their prelatical synods and presbyteries." * He 
now, however, accepted of the indulgence granted to the non-con- 
forming clergymen, and was appointed by an act of the privy-coun- 
cil to the vacant charge of Paisley.f " He was," says Wodrow, 
** a person of the most shining piety, stayed gravity, of the great- 
est eminency of gift, extraordinary sweetness of temper, and of a 
most peaceable behaviour." % Mr John Baird, late minister at 
Innerwick, also received the benefit of the indulgence, and was 
appointed, on the 16th of December 1669, assistant to Mr Ram- 
say, who it appears had, from bodily infirmity, become unable to 
discharge the duties of his ofiSce. § Mr Baird, it is probable, 
would have been afterwards deposed, as he too was cited to a^ 
pear before the council, on the 6th of Maj-ch 1684, for non-con- 
formity. But a testimonial of his sickness having been produced, 
his case was deferred until April. <' Whether this sickness car- 
ried him to heaven at this time, I know not," says Wodrow, " but 
I find no more about him in the register. He was a minister of 
great learning and piety, and singular skill in medicine."|| 

To the indulged ministers the first who succeeded was 

John Fullarton. The first sederunt of Presbytery, at which he 
appears, is of date 12th November 1684, when he was moderator. 
He was ejected at the revolution. In 1720, he was elected Bi- 
shop of Edinburgh on the death of Bishop Rose, and was one of 
the first of the post-revolution prelates. He died in May 1727. 

Anthony Murray was admitted minister of this charge on the 
2d of April 168a *« The brethren gave him the right hand of 
fellowship, having been ane old actual minister."f No notice of 
him appears in the Presbytery records after 27th of February 
1689. *• ' H's successor was, 

William Leggat, firom Ireland, who, for the time, was residing at 
Fenwick. On the 22d of August 1689, be accepted of the call 
from Paisley, fsalvojure eecksiae HibemitB^) and received the right 

• Wodrow, Vol. i. p. 427, 8vo. ed. f Id. Vol. ii. p. 133. \ Id. Vol. i. p. 427. 

f Id. VoL ii. p. 184. fl Id. Vol. ii. p. 3a 1 Presbytery Records. 

** Murray vai a relation of the Duchen of Lauderdale, and in 1677 was asked 
br the Presbyterian ministers to use his interest in their behalf, with the Duke. He 
did S0| and pressed particularly the relief of the persecuted ministers from the Babs. 
Lauderdale sternly reliised, <* the party,** as he said, ** being unworthy of any 
fiiTour."— Wodrow, VoL iL p. 848. 



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PAISLEY. 2:^ 

hand of fellowship accordingly. He returned to Ireland in the end 
of 169], and was succeeded by, 

Thomas Blackwell, who was ordained on the 28th of August 
1664. He was called to the charge on the 5th of April 1693, 
but his ordination was delayed till the above date, for reasons men- 
tioned in the Presbytery records, one of which was his own ^^ un- 
cleamess" about accepting of the call. He was translated to Aber- 
deen on the 9th of October 1700. 

Thomas Brown, who had previously held the second charge, 
succeeded him in 1700. His successor was, 

Robert Millar, a man distinguished for learning and piety. He 
was author of the " History of the Propagation of Christianity," 
and other works illustrative of the scriptures, and the history of 
the^church. He was appointed to his charge in Paisley on the 
126th December 1709, and died on the 16th December 1752. 

James Hamilton succeeded him on the 9th of June 1753, 
being translated from the second charge. He died 1 4th March 
1782, in the sixty-first yearof his age, and thirty-first of bis minis- 
try.* 

Robert Boog, D. D. succeeded to this charge on the 29th August 
1782, having, for about eight years, held the second. He died on the 
24th July 1823^ and was succeeded on the 9th of April of the fol- 
lowing year, by the present incimibent, who was translated from 
Ballantrae, where he had been ordained on the 11th May 1815, 

Second Charge. — Provision having been made by Mr Calvert, 
for a colleague minister in this parish, in the year 1641, as already 
mentioned, John Fullerton was appointed to it the same year, but 
he does not seem to have accepted of the appointment. He ap- 
pears to have been afterwards minister of Kilwinning. 

Alexander Dunlop was the first who held this charge. He was 
appointed to it in October 1644, and held it till his removal to 
the first charge on the 28th of December 1653. 

James Stirling was ordained his successor in this charge, on the 
12th of June 1654. Like his colleague, Mr Dunlop, he was, on the 
introduction of Episcopacy, ejected from his charge. He wrote the 

* On thia dergymftn a curious epitaph was written jby Mr Francis Dougbs, au- 
thor of a descriptive work on ** the East Coast of SooUand," and printed in the Scotch 
Magaiine of 1783/ We cannot insert the whole* but the foUowing is the concluding 
clauses. " Unnoticed by the crowd, he chose to walk with virtue in tlie shade. Con- 
fiding in the Supreme 6eing, and animated by the hope of immortality, be bore a 
long decline of health with uninterrupted tranquillity, and died in perfect peace. 
Gentle shade! congenial spirits gather round thee : farewell. He died Nth March 
1782, in the sixty first year of his age, and thirty-first of his ministry." 



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236 RENFREWSHIRE. 

first or historical part of that &mons book ^* Naphtali, or the 
wrestlings of the Church of Scotland."* 

William Eccles, an indulged minister, seems to have been ap- 
pointed to Paisley about the same time with Mr Ramsay (1^9,) 
whose assistant was Mr Baird, and it is therefore probable his ap- 
pointment was to the second charge. The exact period of it we 
have not been able to ascertain. But he was deprived of his license 
by the council on the 30th of January i684.f 

John Taylor, formerly minister at Meams, succeeded to this 
charge in 1685. He, like Mr Fullerton, was deprived at the Re- 
volution. This charge seems to have remained vacant from the 
time of his removal till it was filled by 

Thomas Brown, as he is the next in succession, whose name ap- 
pears in the records. He was ordained on the 4th May 1698. 
From this charge he was translated to the first in 1700, and from 
that period, the second charge appears to have been vacant till the 
ordination of 

Robert Mitchell, on the22d September 17122, who, on the 21st 
March 1739, was translated to the church and parish lately before 
erected within the burgh of Paisley. 

William Fleming, previously minister of Kirkintilloch, succeed- 
ed him, on the 26th June 1740 ; and died on the 2d January 1747. 

James Hamilton, who succeeded to this charge, was ordained 
on the 24th April 1751. He was soon after this translated to the 
first charge. 

John Rae, his successor, was ordained on the 24th January 
1754; and died on the 4th September 1757. 

Archibald Davidson, next in succession, was ordained on the 
7th September 1758. From this charge he was translated to 
the parish of Inchinnan, on the 20th October 1761, and there- 
after to the principality of the College of Glasgow. 

Alexander Kennedy, his successor, received ordination on the 
10th June 1762, and died on the 12th July 177a He was suc- 
ceeded by 

Robert Boog, who was ordained to this charge on the 2l8t 
April 1774, and held it till his translation to the first, on the 29th 
August 1782. 

* The *< reasoDinff part of Napfatali was written by one of the belt lawyers of his 
time. Mr (aflerwards Sir) James Stewaitof Goodtrees/**-Wodrow*8 Hist. VoL ii. 
p. 100. 
t Wodrow, Vol. iv. p. 38. 



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PAISLEY. 237 

James Mylne, his successor, was ordained on the 27th March 
1783; and resigned his charge on the 4th October 1797, having 
been elected to the chair of Moral Philosophy in the College of 
Glasgow, which he still continues to fill. 

James Smith succeeded the Professor, and was ordained on the 
26th January 1798. He held this charge till his death, on the 28th 
January 1817. 

The present incumbent sucx^eeded Mr Smith, and was ordain- 
ed to his charge on the 10th April 1818. 

Low Parish. — At the opening of the new church in the burgh 
of Paisley, or the " Laigh Kirk," Robert Mitchell was translated 
from the second charge of the original, now the Abbey parish, to 
this newly erected parish, on the 21st March 1739. He died on 
the 9th March 1746, and was succeeded by 

Peter Scott, who had been ordained as his colleague and suc- 
cessor, on the 27th June 1740. He died on the 4th August 
1753; and his successor was 

Robert Findlay, D. D. an exemplary minister, and a man of pro- 
found learning, who had been settled at Galston, on the 2lst of 
March 1754. He was translated to Paisley on the 29th January 
1 756 ; thereafter to the Ramshorn parish of Glasgow, and ulti- 
mately to the Divinity Chair of the university in that city, which 
he filled till his death in 1814, at a very advanced age. He was 
succeeded by 

John Witherspoon, D. D. LL. D., who was translated from 
Beith on the 16th June 1757. He resigned his charge on the 22d 
June 1768, and went to America, and became the distinguished 
President of Princeton College, New Jersey.* He died in 1794. 

James Morrison, A. M., from Strathblane, was the next incum- 
bent, having been admitted to this charge on the 29th June 1769. 
He died on the 28th March 1781, when his place was filled by 

Colin Gillies, who, having been ordained assistant and succes- 
sor to Mr David Turner of the West Parish Greenock, was admit- 
ted to this charge on the 19th December 1781; and died on the 
6th March 1810. 

John Reid, who was ordained his assistant and successor on the 
17th December 1801, survived him only a few months. He died 
on the 10th of November of the same year. (18J0.) 

Robert Burns, D. D., was ordained on the 19th July 1811. 
He was removed from the Laigh Kirk to St George's, in which he 

* The best account of the life of this distinguished man will be found in the Edin- 
burgh Christian Instructor for 1830, p. 673. 



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238 RENFREWSHIRE. 

now officiates, but is still mtiristerof the same parish, St Geoi^e's 
being now the church of that parish. 

High Parish, — After the opening of the High Church in 1756, 

James Baine, A. M. was admitted to the charge, on the 22d 
April of that year. On the 26th March 1766, he resigned his 
charge, having joined the presbytery of the Relief Church, in which 
connexion he died in 1790. 

George Muir, D. D. succeeded him, on the 30th October 1766. 
He died on the 20th July 1771, and was succeeded by 

William Taylor, D. D. who was ordained on the 2d July 1772. 
Dr Taylor was, on •the 15th September 1780, translated to the 
High Church of Glasgow, and afterwards succeeded to the princi* 
pality of the University in that city. 

John Findlay, D. D. his successor, was ordained on the 14th 
March 1781, and died on the 25th March 1821.* 

John Greddes, his assistant and successor, was ordained on the 
9th February 1821. He was removed to St Andrew's parish^ 
Glasgow, on the 18th January 1832, in which he remained till 
his death, on the 24th May of the following year. 

The present incumbent succeeded him. He was translated from 
the Scotch Church, Crown Court, London, to which he had been 
ordained by the presbytery of Paisley, on the 21st of July 1831. 
He was admitted to his present charge on the 14th May 1832. 

Middle Parish, — Of the Middle Parish of Paisley, the first mi- 
nister was 

John Snodgrass, D. D., who was translated from the town of 
Dundee, and inducted to his charge in Paisley, on the 19th De- 
cember 1781, which he held till his death, onthe22d June 1797. 

Jonathan Ranken his successor, was ordained on the 15th June 
1798, and died minister of this parish on the 7th March ]8dl.-|- 

James Begg, A. M. from Lady Glenorchy's Chapel, Edinburgh, 
succeeded him. He was admitted on the 25th November 1831, 
and was translated to the parish of Libert on on the 18th June 1835* 

The present incumbent, his successor, was inducted to his 
charge on the 12th February 1836. 

Johnston. — It was only in the year 1834 that the village or town 

* An interesting memoir of this faithful and eminently useful minister was 
written \,y Mr Thomas Crichton, Master of the Hospital, Paisley, and to which re- 
ference may be made for fiiU information regarding him. Mr C. wrote the Account 
of Witherspoon above referred to. 

t Interesting sketches of these excellent ministers of this place, Dr Snodgrass, aod 
Messrs Geddes and Ranken, will be found in the Christian Instructor for 1830, p. 
610, and 1831^ p. 801. These sketches were written by Mr Crichton. 



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PAISLEY. 239 

of Johnston was erecte$l into a distinct parish. The place of wor- 
ship in it connected with the £stablishment,.however, was opened 
in the year 1794, and perambulated bounds were assigned to the 
locality, whose inhabitants were placed under the ecclesiastical su- 
perintendence of its minister. Those who have successively filled 
the situation of ministers there, are, 

James Weir, ordained 1st June 1797, who resigned in 1801 ; 
Matthew Graham, ordained 20th January 1802, who resigned 7th 
December 1804, having been called to the chapel of Calton, Glas- 
gow; Andrew Harley, admitted 26th April 1804, who died dOth 
July 1807 ;*and Alexander Telfer, present minister, ordained 16th 
December 1807. 

Gaelic. — In the same year, the Gaelic Chapel was received into 
the number of churches in the Paisley presbytery. That place of 
worship, however, was opened in 1794. Its ministers since the 
opening of it have been, 

- William Simpson, settled 1795 or 1796, who resigned 21st June 
1802 ; Walter Blair, admitted dd June 1803, who died in July 
1832 ; and the present minister, John Campbell, ordained on the 
16th April 1833. 

North. — Of the places of worship recently built, the North 
Church was the earliest that was provided with a minister. The 
first who was elected to the charge was Peter Macmorland. But be- 
fore his ordination he was chosen minister of the National Scotch 
Church, London, and ordained by the presbytery of Paisley to that 
charge on the 2d of April 1835. 

Robert Stevenson succeeded him, and was ordained on 17th 
July, but, being soon afiter removed to the Middle Church of this 
town, he was succeeded by the present incumbent, who was or- 
dained on 31st March 1836. 

MartyrSi Levem and South. — The first elected incumbents in 
the other three churches Martyrs, Levern, and the South still con- 
tinue to officiate in the charges to which they have been severally 
ordained. The minister of the first was ordained on the 21st of 
July, the second on the 22d of that month, and the third on the 
l^th of August, all in the year 1836. 

Churches. — The churches are all in a state of good repair. We 
have already noticed th^ Abbey. The others are plain substantial 
buildings, and well fitted up within. The High Church, said to be 

* Of Uib fiuthfuly but short-lived minister, an interesting memoir will be found in 
the Religious Monitor of October 180(1. 



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240 RENFREWSHIRE. 

the largest in Scotland whose roof is unsupported by pillars, is 
surmounted by a lofty, as well as a handsome spire, which attracts 
the eye at a great distance, and the Levem, which is the smallest 
of the Paisley churches, is picturesquely situated qu the \eh bank 
of the river which gives it its name. 

Parochial Registers, — As previous to the year 1736, the whole 
of the district comprehended in this article was included in one 
parish, there was then only one parochial register kept From 
that register, we find the minutes of the kirk»session as far back 
as November 1699. In the first volume, which brings down the 
minutes to August 1706, a number of leaves appear to have been 
torn out. The next volume commences with the minutes of Ja- 
nuary 1710, and ends in February ] 775. A volume appears to have 
been lost, containing the proceedings of the kirk*sessbn between 
February 1775 and March 1792. With the exceptions noticed, 
the minutes are complete, from their commencement in 1699 to 
the present time. 

The registers in the burgh parishes have been regularly kept, 
from the opening of the different churches, each parish having a 
distinct register. The sessions of the three endowed parishes in 
the town, however, meet together on particular occasions, for all 
matters connected with the poor, when they form what is called 
the general session. Each of the three kirk*sessions has a clerk 
of its own, elected by the town council in consequence of special 
contract ; but the clerk of the Abbey session is chosen by the 
members of the court themselves, which is also the case with 
the clerks of the sessions of the unendowed churches. 

In the Abbey parish the registers of births have been regularly 
kept from 1676, and proclamation of banns from 1670, to the 
present day. In the burgh, one register was kept from 1738 till 
178 1. At that period, when the burgh was divided into three distinct 
parishes, separate registers were ordered for each, and they have 
been kept with great accuracy from that date to the present time. 

Baptisms and marriages, as well as births and proclamations of 
banns, are registered. 

The early records contain many curious notices of manners, and 
of the passing events in civil and ecclesiastical history. A few of 
these are given in the subjoined extracts : — 

" 19th Januar 1604. The presbitrie being informit by thair brother, Mr Patrick 
Hamiltoun, that Robert Aitken and Robert Miller, parochiners of Lochquinnocfae, 
superstitiouslie behaved yameselves be ringing of girdiUes ye day of Januare; as also 
that Hendrie Paslny, Robert Paislay, Rot Patoun, and James King, in Muirdykes, 



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PAISLEY. 241 

efter one profime and godles maner behavit ymn^eielfis in disagyitsing yameselfis, 
quhilk is nathiog 1e« than abominaen in ye eyes of ye lord, as also being inforroit 
be thalr Brother, Gavan Hamilton, Vicar of Kilbarchan, that James Andro," ftc. 
&c., ** usit supervtitious play is a little before yuiU in the day callet ynllevinning, come 
throw ye clachane of Kilbarchan, making open proclamacn and giving oppen libertie 
to all men to tak pastyme for ye space of aucht dayes, as also usit superstitious 
playis upon the 26 of December, at ye Corsfuird, and gave yameselfis to strolling 
and drinking. The britbren ordaint all the forsaid persons to be sumond to ye next 
presbitrie day be thair brither, Mr Patrick Uamiltoun and Gavand Hamiltoun, Vicar 
at Kilbarchan.** 

**• 24 May ld3a The qlk day the brethren thought good that a solemne fast 
should be kept on Sonday come eight dayes, and intimatioun thereof to be made on 
Sonday next throughout the whole churches of the presbyterie, for the removeing of 
the sinnes of the Umd, especiallie the contempt of the gospell, wch justlie hath pro. 
▼oked God to permit Innovations to creepe in into the church, and that it would 
please God to save this Kirk of Scotland from all Innovations of religioune, and that 
peace with the profeasioune of the pnt religioune may with llbertie be interteined.** 

" do Aug. The qlk day the brethren that were pnt did all solemnlie sware that 
they were neither dealt with nor sufier themselves to be dealt with to be perverted 
against the Covenant nee prece, pretio, nee minis." 

*^ 11 Aprilis 1639. The qlk day the brethren thought it most expedient and ne- 
cessarr, that Mr Matthew Brisbane should goe with the Colonell Montgomerie and 
the companie with him, to Dunce* hill, for their coYort,be preaching and other exer- 
cises of devotion.** 

*• 9 Decemb. 1641. The qlk day the brithren were acquainted that the Nynt day 
of Januar nextocii is appointed to be kept for solemne thanksgiving to God for es- 
tablyshing peace within the Kingdome of Scotland.** 

*< J 9 May 1642. The qlk the Moderator, brethren, and remanent members of the 
presbyterie ordained Mr John Hay and Mr Henrie Calvert to goe to the Erie of 
Abercorne, and speake to his LoP anent the subscriptioune of the Covenant, and 
anent his coming to the Church, and anent the bringing back of his eldest Sonne ac- 
cording to the Act of the provincial assembly." 

•*• 23 September 1643. Anent a Ire of the Estates requireing that the brethren 
would be pleased everie one to put out a man with other presbyteries with the expe- 
ditioune to England, 'ilie brethren have declared their willingnes so to doe, but have 
referred the matter till the provincial! assemblie to be kept at Lainrek upon Tuisday 
next insueing, and after advisemt to give ansr.** 

"13 June 1644. The brethren ordeine Mr Ninian Campbell to goe to the arroie 
nowe in England, and supplie there as Minister till he were liberat. and that in my 
Lord Loudounes regiment, and order Mr Jon Hay to writt to his LoP to that effect." 

« 21 May 1640. The qlk day the ministers at Paislaye, Kilmacolme, and Killel- 
lane, required powers fra the presbiterie for judicial le tryalle and examina*n of suehe 
personnes as are suspected to have had oomplyance with James Grhame or Alex. 
Mcdonald, or receivit protection fra theme, qlk wes granted.** 

** 7th Januar 1647. The qlk day compeirit Andro Semple, toune-clerk of Kenfrewe» 
and grantit he wes at the meetinge of the gentilmen of the shyre at Kenfrewe qn 
there wes ane act made for outputeing a trowpe of horse for James Grhame. The 
presbiterie hes wrnet him apud acta to this day twentie dayes, to give up ane roll of 
the gentilmen yt were yre." 

« 27 Deer. 1648. Heported by the Brethren that the Covenant wes renewed 
with solemne fasting and humUla'n on Sabboth last.** 

" April 12, 1649. Compeared Johne Wallace of Ferguslie, Allane Wallace, his son, 
Kot. fibrk, elder, and Rot. Atezr, late baillies of Pasley, who for their accessioun to 
the late sinfull ingadgment, are referred to the gnall assemblie.*' 

" 27 Sept. 1649. Reported by John Sprewle, proveist of Renfrew, that he had 
apprehendit some women in Renfirew for eminent presumptions of Witchcraft. The 
prebne appoynts Mrs Johne Hamiltoun, Allexr. Dunlope, the Lainis of Bischop- 
toune and Craigends, elders, to confer with the said woemen, and deale to bring them 
to ane confession.** 

^< October 1649. The prebrie concludet that all the brethrene sail this nicht and 
the morrowe, deall with the persons apprehendet for witchcraft in Pasley and Ren- 
firew to bring them to confessioun.'* 

** Feby. 6, 1650. The rest of the day and the morrowe to be spent in dealing with 
the witches now upon pannell, yt they may be broucht to repentance.** 



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2242 RENFREWSHIRE. 

'^ May 16, 1650.— The aolemne thanksgiving for ye overthrow given by the ni'tye 
of God to James Grahame, appointed to be keiped on Wednesday come eight days, ac- 
cording to ye appointment of ye comission of the gnall assemblie." 

**• Penult May 1650. Produced the confessions of Janet Wood, in Neilston — the 
prebrie finding her guiltie of gross sorcerie and witchcraft, they have eamestlie re- 
comendet ye same to ye lords of secret counsell or comittee of estates, for granting 
ane comission for her tryall and censure.** 

^* Sept. 1660. In respect our armye in ye feilds against ye sectaries Is scattered 
at Dunbar, and yt ye gentelmeu and ministris of ther westerne shyres are to meet at 
Kilmarnock, the prebrie appoints Mrs Allexr Dunlope and John Mauld to repaire 
thither, and to concurr wth them in any good and necessary course for saiftie of the 
cause and kingdome." 

*' lOth August 1653. This day, unexpectedlie, Capitane Greene, one of the la- 
glish armye, with ane partie of souldiers, invadit the presbitrie, and bv violence ia- 
terupted thpir fitting, carried them out to ane house in the town, and deteined them 
rr as prisoners, alledging yt all presbries were discharged, and had no power to sitt. 
Therefter they being dismissed, did again conveine, and considring the greil dis- 
traction of the tyms, and the uncertantie of the continuatiou of yr liberties appointed 
the ordination of Mr William Thomson to the ministrie at Merns, to be at Mems 
the morrow, and the day to be observed as ane day of humiliation n.** 

** Primo September 1653. Compeared Capitane John Greene, one of the In- 
glishe officers, who, declaireing that he was come to sitt with the presbrie and attend 
all their dyets, that he might know what they did in their meetings, did exhibit aoe 
warrand from Collonell Lilburne to that purpose. The prebrie did declaire their 
great dissatisfaction yrwlth, and yt with their consent he sould not sitt with them, 
whereupon he did forbear for the tym.** 

** 25th April 1660. Mr Hugh 'Peebles reports, that as was appointed he did re- 
buke before the congregation l.oghwinzoch, Alexander Hamilton in Kilbarchan pa- 
rish, and Kathrine Blair, his wife, for scandalous conversing, eating, and drinking 
wt the Lord Sempell and the rest of his Popish family now excommunicat, particu- 
larly at their superstitious observance of Yool, also Giles Sempell' for the same fault, 
and for dauncingwith them at the same occasion ; item James Allason, John Gillia, 
Minian Tarbert, for profaning the Lord*s day in the house of Castle- Sempill, at their 
superstitious observing of Yool tyde.** 

" August 18, 1664. Robert Finny, parochiner in Pasley, being sumoned for his 
abuse upon his marriage day, by bringing a bagpipe thorow the toune of Pasley, with 
many horse, playing along to the scandal of the people, contrary to orders maide for- 
merly in this place against such abuses, and is appointed to be rebuked publickly be- 
fore the congregation, and to pay six pounds Scots of fine for his fault. 

« I>ecr. 20, 1666 — Anent those within the presbytrie who were in arms in the 
late rebellious insurrection, the brethren report, that none to their knowledge within 
the presbytrie were actually joyned with their body who were in arms, only the young 
goodman of Caldwell, in the parish of Neilston, was with the laird of Caldwell in arms 
going to these rebells, as also William Porterfield of Quarreltown, in the parish of 
Pasley, now vacant, also Alexr. Porterfield, the said William his brother in the parish 
of Kilphallan, now vacant also, and their names now already known and published 
in the printed papers. Two also now given up as suspected persons, who had fled 
their houses, when searched for by the soldiers, in the parish of Eastwood, Gavin 
Philsill in Pollocktoun, and Archibald Chisne, who also are already made known to 
his Majestie*s forces, who are endeavouring to apprehend them." 

Jany. 12, 1681 — The said day the Acts of Synod vere roul, and the brethren in- 
terrogat as to their observing thereof, all of them reports, that they say the Lord*s 
prayer, and either sings or says the doxologie. And they promise that so soon as 
the country shall in any measure settle cheermlly, to go about obedience to the act of 
the administration of the Lord's Supper.*' 

<* Dec 21, l(>8t.— The Moderator produces ane order, pticularlie directed to him 
from the Archb., requiring him, io presence of the remanent brethren, to administer 
the oath called the Test to all schoolmasters, doctors, and chaplains within the bounds 
of the presbytrie, and to report his diligence hereanent, betwixt and the flrst of Ja- 
nuarie 1682.*' 

" Feb. 7, 1683. — This day ye Moderator and brethren, confbrme to ane act of sy- 
nod gave into Baylv Paterson in Renfrew, ye shiref deputes substitute, ye following 
list of disorderly schoolmasters within ye bounds, who have not taken the test, viz. 
James Cowie in Kilbarchan, Peter Pew in Nilstoun, Mr Wm Reid in Lochwnoch, 



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PAISLEY. 243 

John Richmond in Greenock, Thomas Wat in Candyoke, John Semple in Houstoun, 
Mongo Mitchell in Innerkip, which list ye said Bailie has promised to give into the 
ffhiref depute, for officiating contrary to law« 

" Also Mr Gadderer giving in a list of some obstinat persons wtin his parioch who 
refused to join wt him as elders in discipline. The Moderator and brethren do like- 
wise give in ye sd list to Bayly Paterson, who hes promised to give it up to the shiref 
depute" 

'* March 24tb 1697. The Presb. considering the great rage of Satan in this cor- 
ner of the land, and particularly the continued trouble of Bargarren's daur. which is 
a great evidence of the Lord*8 displeasure being provoked by the sins of the land, 
(ezprast as the causes of our former publike fasts) so to let Satan loose amongst us. 
Therefore the presb. judges it very necessary to set apart a day of solemne humilia- 
cne and fiisting, that we may humble ourselves under God's hand, and wrestle with 
Ood in prayer, that he may restrain SatanV rage and relieve that poor afflicted dam- 
sill and that fitmily from their present distress, and that the Lord would break in 
upon the hearts of these poor obdured that are Indicted fur witchcraft, that they may 
fraely confess to the Glory of God and the rescuing of their own souls out of the 
bands of Satan, and that the Lord would conduct and clear their way that are to lie upon 
yr tryell, In order to the giving of Satan*s Kingdom ane effectuall stroak. Therefor 
the presb. appoints Thursday oome eight days to be religiously and solemnly observed 
upon the accounts fors'd, in all the congregations within their bounds, and the same 
to be intimate the Sabbath preceding. 

"The presb. also appoints the whole members to deal with those who are indited, 
as they shall have occasion, in order unto their being brought to a confession." 

*< Aprile 14, 1697. — The meeting considering this day that the revising of the nar- 
rative of Christine Shaw's trouble was recommended unto them by the synod, there- 
fore they appoint Mr Turner to cause transcribe four copies, and send one to prin • 
cipal Dunlop, and Mr Ja. Brown, another to Mr Ballantine, another to Mr Wylie, 
and another to Mr Wilson, allowing them to advise with any of the brethren oif yr 
respective presbitrys in the revising yrof, appointing them, ere they leave this place, to 
meet and appoint the time and place of their next meeting, that they may compare 
their animadversions, and put the qll relations in a suitable dress." 

^< May 19, 1697 — Bed. The members of the presb. with the rest of the brethren 
that were in town. 

** After prayer, Mrs McDowell, Da Brown, Ja Stirling are appointed, as frequently 
as possibly they can, to converse with the seven persons that are condemned to die 
for witchcraft** 

** Mr Pa. Sympson and Mr Da Brown are appointed to have each of them a Lecture 
in the tolbuth to those that are condemned upon June 9, the day preceding their 
Execution.** 

" At Pasley, June 9, 1697. Mr Sympson preacht this day in the tolbuth to the 
condemned persons, on 2 Tim. 2. 25, 26, and also Mr Brown on 1 Tim. 1, 16, ac- 
cording to appointment.** 

" The presb. did appoint the whole members to spend sometime this night with 
the condemned persons who are to dy to-morrow, and did allot to each one or two 
of the Brethren one of the sentenced persons, to be dealt with by them, and waited 
upon to the fire.** 

** Jjanoary 11th 1699. The Presb. appoints their Commissioners to the Assembly 
to plead that this presbytery be exeem*d from supplying the North at this time, upon 
the account of the sad condition of the Country through diabolicall molestations, &c.*' 

From the minutes, it appears that the Pr^ytery took a very strong interest in 
the question of the Union of the Kingdoms in 1707, appointing a Committee of their 
number to wait on the proceedings of the Parliament and Commissioners at Edin- 
burgh, for the purpose of stopping what was then considered a dangerous and degra- 
ding proposal. The tumults of &e times are matter of history with whidi we^ have 
nothing to do ; but we may remark, that the Presbytery of Paisley did, in this in- 
stance, only echo the universal feeling of the more decided part uf the Presbyterian 
body, that the Union would prove highly prgudicial to the Church, by iessenmg her 
influence with the legislature, and by merging her interests in those of a legislative 
body, in which Episcopacy could not fail to have an immense preponderance. 

Parochial Missions. — About ten years ago there was a town 
mission established in Paisley, which employed two agents. This 



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244 RENFREWSHIRE. 

society was dissolved about five years ago, when an Association was 
formed chiefly of members of the Established Church. That As- 
sociation has been able to employ three licentiates of the church 
as parish missionaries, who labour in some of the most populous 
places of the town and Abbey parishes. They are appointed by 
the session of the parish in which they labour, and under whose super- 
intendence they are considered as particularly placed. The funds 
for their support are raised by subscription, and by collections on 
Sabbath evenings, when the ministers of these parishes take, each 
his turn of preaching in the High Church. 

Sabbath Schools. — Besides the parish missionary Association, 
there are in Paisley two Sabbath school societies, one supported 
by members of the Established church, and the other chiefly by 
persons connected with the different denominations of evangelical 
Dissenters. The original Sabbath School Society, in this place, 
was established in the year 1796 ; and for nearly thirty years was 
supported by individuals of all denominations, who were disposed 
to give it their countenance. But in the year 1833 it was found that 
the members of the Established and dissenting churches, from causes 
arising out of the Establishment controversy, could no longer 
co-operate with that harmony, which had hitherto existed among 
them ; in consequence of which a separation took place, which gave 
rise to the two distinct Associations now mentioned. Still, however 
this separation, we ought to remark, has decidedly increased the 
number attending Sabbath schools in Paisley. There were last 
year not less then 4198 in attendance on these schools, being about 
2000 more than are found on the list of the Society previous to the 
separation. The schools of both Societies arc conducted on the 
same principle, and use the same books. Most of the Sabbath 
schools have juvenile religious libraries attached to them. The 
system of local arrangement is adopted as far as practicable, and 
a vigilant system of visitation is maintained. 

Ministers' Classes. — Most of the clergymen, both Established 
and dissenting, have long been in the habit of instructing weekly 
classes of young men and young women of their congregations and 
parishes, in the principles of the gospel, by way of free and familiar 
catechising on the Scriptures or approved catechisms. The num;- 
bers in these classes vary from about 20 to 150. Thegreatest bene* 
fit has been found to result from these interesting departments of 
pastoral duty. 

Education. — In these parishes, there has hitherto been a great 

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PAISLEY. 245 

ivantof the means of education, although of late, attempts have been 
making for the purpose of remedying this evil. The slate of edu- 
cation appears, from a report of the presbytery given in to the Ge- 
neral Assembly, in May 1834. According to that report, there 
were then in the Abbey parish 32 schools, attended by 2318scholars, 
including those who attended in the evening, making in a popula- 
tion of 26,177, only about one in 11.28, or nearly 9 per cent, un- 
der education. In the town parishes, there were 33 schools, and 
2458 scholars, making in a population of 31,460, only about one 
in 12.80, or about 7.81 per cent, receiving instruction. How very 
different is this from what it ought to be ! for in order to exhibit 
a parish fully enjoying and improving the means of education, there 
ought to be a fifth or a sixth part of its inhabitants receiving instruc- 
tion, and this we find to be the case, in some of the well educated 
parishes in Scotland. 

Of these 32 schools in the Abbey parish, not one is parochial. 
One of the teachers has an annuity of about 1m 10 or L. 12, being 
the interest of a sum of L. 240, left by William Maxwell, Esq. of 
Bredieland, as a small endowment for the improvement of educa- 
tion in the parish. Four of them are furnished with school-rooms, 
built by subscription, and kept in repair by a committee of subscrib- 
ers. All the other teachers are wholly unendowed. 

The 33 schools in the town of Paisley include those called 
the town schools, whose teachers are appointed by the council, and 
over whom that body exercises a particular superintendence. The 
first of these is the grammar-school, in which the Latin and Greek 
languages are taught, and from which, for many years past, some 
of the most distinguished classical scholars have been sent to the 
neighbouring University of Glasgow. Had all the funds original- 
ly destined for the support of this school been retained, the rector 
would, at this day, have been provided with an ample endowment. 
For we find, that, in the year 1576-7, seven roods of land, with 
the revenues and endowments of the altars and chaplaineries in the 
church of Paisley, that is, a chapel formerly in the town of Pais- 
ley, dedicated to St Rock, were bestowed on the magistrates and 
community of Paisley, for the erection of a grammar-school. * 
These endowments, however, through the lapse of time, have, in 
a great measure, been lost sight of; and the income of the teach- 

• Histor. Dcscrip. of Abbey, p. 86. 



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246 RENFREWSHIRE. 

er, at this day,, consists of merely a school-house, dwelling-house, 
and about L. 17 per annum, with the wages of the scholars. * 

There are other three schools which may be called town schoobf 
two in which the English language is taught, and one in which 
writing, arithmetic, and practical mathematics are the branches of 
instruction. The teacher of each of these schools is furnished with 
a school- room; one of the English teachers has in addition a dwel- 
ling-house, and the other, as also the commercial teacher, a salary 
of L. 8, 6s. 8d. per annum, from the funds of the town. 

The only other teacher within the burgh who, when the report 
was given in, had any thing like an endowment, was the one in 
Seed-hill, who, in addition to a school-room and dwelling-house, 
enjoyed, as he still enjoys, an annuity of L. 5, left for the purpose 
of education about fifty years ago, by a person of the name of ParL 

Such was the state of education in Paisley within these two 
years. But it is refreshing to think, that active exertions have 
been set on foot, for the purpose of remedying the evil of so great 
a want of education as then existed among us : and, from the libe- 
rality of the friends of education, there is great reason to hope, 
that these exertions will, ere long, be crowned with success. The 
heritors of the Abbey parish have resolved to assess themselves, in 
the legal sum of three chalders, for the support of three parochial 
teachers, each of whom to be localled in one of the three dis- 
tricts of the parish, viz. one in the east, one in the west, and one 
in the central or middle district. A school has also been recently 
erected in the New Town, from funds left for this purpose, by the 
late Mr and Mrs Corse of Greenlaw. From all these sources, it is 
expected that a great addition will be made to the means of educa- 
tion, and, from the additional encouragement to teachprs, an im- 
provement in its quality. 

To the parishes within the burgh of Paisley, a grant from Go- 
vernment of L. 700, for the purpose o£ building schools, was lately 
obtained, which has been so increased, by the liberality of the in- 
habitants, as to have afforded them the means of erecting three new 
school-rooms, and of increasing the accommodation of an existing 
one. The general session, who had previously built a school-house 
by means of funds at their disposal, have, along with a certain 
number of subscribers, the superintendence of these schools, and 
they have guaranteed to each teacher a salary of L. 15 per an- 

* When the school is well attended, the teacher possesses a very competent in- 
come. 

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PAISLEY. 247 

num, which enables him to teach at a reduced rate of wages, 
thus bringing the means of education within reach of a class 
of our townsmen who could not have otherwise procured this 
blessing to their offspring. .The rate of wages per quarter in 
these sessional schools is 25., and they are at present attended by 
nearly 7l)0 pupils. 

In the New Town, a commodious infant school, with dwelling- 
bouse for the teacher, has been lately erected by public subscript 
tion. The ground was gifted by James Kibble of Greenlaw, Esq. 
along with a handsome subscription, in aid of the building. It was 
opened in July 1835, and the average number of scholars that have 
been since attending it is about 80. The ministers of the town 
as well as of the Abbey parish are trustees. 

In the town there is one charity school, founded by Mrs Mar- 
garet Hutchison, and additionally endowed by a donation of L. 500 
from the late Walter Carswell, Esq. A commodious school-house, 
capable of holding 250 pupils, has been erected ; and there are al« 
ways under tuition from 200 to 250 young persons. 

The inhabitants of Paisley having thus exerted themselves to 
increase and improve the means of education, especially among the 
poor and working-classes of the community, have also begun to 
turn their attention to the introduction of an improved system of 
education, for the benefit of those whose circumstances enable 
them to give to their children the higher branches of instruction. 
With this view, an Association has lately been formed, for the 
erection of a seminary to be called ^^ The Paisley Academy," in 
which, French, Italian, and German, and other modern lan- 
guages shall be taught, with the principles of mathematics, me- 
chanics, and different branches of natural history and philosophy. 
It is expected, that, if the plan succeed, the Paisley Academy will 
have associated with it a regular ^< school of arts," so as to furnish 
to the inhabitants of Paisley and its neighbourhood, the me^ns of 
completing the education of those of their children not intended 
for one of the learned professions, without the necessity of send- 
ing them to a distance. 

Theological Halls. — Paisley is the seat of not less than two se- 
minaries for theological education ; the one connected with the 
Reformed Presbyterian Synod, and under the charge of the Rev. 
Andrew Symington, D. D. ; the other connected with the Relief 
Synod, and under the charge of the Rev. James Thomson, D. D. 

RENFREW. R 



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248 RENFREWSHIRE. 

These gentlemen are also ministers of congregations respectively 
in the town, and during the hall term (which is in the months of 
August and September) their pulpits are supplied by ministers spe- 
cially appointed by the synods. The number of students at both 
of these institutions may average 40. Each hall has attached to 
it an extensive collection of theological books. 

Religious Societies, — Paisley was for twenty years the seat of 
very flourishing Bible Society, under the name of " The Paisley 
and East Renfrewshire Bible Society ;" which, besides supplying 
home wants, sent annually many hundred pounds to the British 
and Foreign Bible Society, and other societies of the same kind* 
Of late it has existed under the form of four female Bible associa- 
tions, which have done much good by distributing Bibles, purchas- 
ed, lent, or gifted to the poor of the place ; and which have also 
distributed of their charity to the Highlands, colonies, and foreign 
parts. The missionary enterprise was early befriended in this place,, 
and several associations in behalf of the London, Scottish, Bap- 
tist, and Continental Societies, have from time to time lent their 
aid to the good cause. Of late, various circumstances have directed 
the attention of the Christian public more immediately to the sup- 
ply of spiritual wants at home ; but the visits of the representa- 
tives of these and other institutions of the same nature are still 
hailed with pleasure, and liberal collections and subscriptions, from 
time to time, made in their behalf by all denominations. 

IV. — Population. 
State of the Population.— The population of the Abbey and town 
parishes may be distinctly traced from the year 1695; and, ac- 
cording to the statements given at different periods, it is as follows: 

Year. 
1695, 
1755, 
1781, 

In the above table we have not distinguished the males from 
the females, as there is no record of the number of each, at the 
different periods referred to. Besides, in the Abbey parish, the 
number of souls is mentioned only at one of the periods ; at the 
other two, we have only the number of families in the parish. 

From the year 1791, we are able to give the statement of the 
population with more accuracy, distinguishing between the males 
and females in each vear in which the census was taken. 



Abbey. 


Town. 


Total in 


Families. Souls. 


Families. Souls. 


Abbey & Town. 


435 


2200 




2509 


4290 


6799 


1536 


11,100 





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PAISLEY. 249 

Abbey parish. Town of Paisley. 

Year. Fam. Males. Fem. Total. Fam. Males. Fem. Tot. Total in 

Ab. & Til. 
1791, 22d5 5259 5533 10792 3232 6577 7223 13800 24592 
1801, 2991 6592 7561 14153 8945 7821 9205 17026 31179 
1811, 3612 7614 9171 16785 4446 8843 11094 19937 36722 
1821, 4210 9609 10966 20575 5780 12133 14295 26428 47003 
1831, 5306 12062 13944 26006 7002 14460 17000 31460 57466 
According to the census of 1831, the whole population, amount^ to -. 57,466 
Of this number, the burgh contains - • - - - < 31,460 

The New Town and suburbs in Abbey parish, - - 14,739 

Making the whole wthin the bounds of police of the towii and subtirbs of 

Paisley, - - - - - 46,199 

The remaining portion of the population in the Abbey parish 
may be thus stated, viz. 

In the village or town of Johnston, - - - 5617 

Elderslie, - ... 1099 

%'illagcs of Thorn and Quarrelton, ... 847 

Nitshill, Hurlet, and Dovccothall, - - 1000 

country districts, - ... 2704 

Since the above census was taken, there has been an increase 
in both the Abbey and town of Paisley. The census taken about 
two years ago, and which we have adopted under the ecclesiastical 
head, makes the population of the Abbey 26,177, and of the Town 
31,703, — of the whole 57,880. But since that period the increase, 
we have reason to believe, has been very rapid, as a number of ad- 
ditional houses have been built, both in the town and suburbs of 
Paisley, and in the village of Johnston and its neighbourhood. At 
present the public works in Paisley are on the increase, and there 
is a large mill about to be erected at Johnston, which, it is said, 
will give employment to not fewer than 200 individuals, so that 
when we take into consideration, not only the persons who will be 
actually employed at all these works, but also their families, and the 
victual-dealers and clothiers required to provide the necessaries of 
life to this additional population, we may anticipate an increase in 
the number of the inhabitants, on a scale equal to, if not greater 
than any we have yet had occasion to record. 

The average number in each family in the Abbey parish is 4.7 ; 
in the town 4.4 ; in both tak^n together 4.6. The number 
in each family of the town and village population, however, 
is very different from that of the country. Thus, of the west- 
ern part of the parish, including Johnston and Elderslie, the 
number of families in the villages is 1593, and the population 
7434, making the average number in each family 4.6 : whereas 
the number of families in the country locality of that quarter is 
53, and the population 370, giving an average of 7, or nearly so, to 



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250 RENFREWSHIRE. 

a family. This arises from the number of servants kept by those 
employed in agriculture. The proportion to each fiunily, in an- 
other district of the parish, is even greater than this, and is to be 
ascribed to the bleachfields in that locality, in which many High- 
land girls are employed, who lodge together in large apartments 
provided by their masters, and each of these dwelling-places is 
reckoned the abode of a single family. 

The yearly average of births recorded for the last seven years 
may be stated as follows : 

Males. Females. TotaL 

In the Abbey parish, 225 206 431 



Low do. 


34 


33 


67 


High do. 


75 


64 


139 


Middle do. 


52 


53 


105 



In all the parishes, 386 356 742 

But this is no satisfactory proof of the number of births in the 
different parishes, many neglecting to register. 

Of 3022, the total number of births recorded in the Abbey pa- 
rish, for the last seven years, it appears that 23 are twins, that is, 
one in every 66 children registered is at an average a twin. 

Of marriages, the following may be given, as the yearly average 
for the last seven years, or rather of proclamations for marriage, for 
the marriage is not always celebrated in the parish in which the 
parties are proclaimed. 

In the Abbey parish, 286 

Low do. 77 

High do. 142 

Middle do. 110 

In all the paiishes, 615 

The average of deaths cannot be ascertained for the last seven 
years, as no regular register of them has been kept during the whole 
of that time. We have, however, been favoured with an excellent 
mortality bill, drawn up by Dr M'Kinlay of this town, for the year 
ending 3lst December 1834, from which it s^pears, that during 
that year there died in the Abbey parish and burgh parishes, in 
all 1824. 

In the Abbey parish, the population may be thus divided. 

Population under 15 years of age, . 10331 

betwixt 15 and 30, - - 7818 

30 and 50, . . 5419 

50 and 70, - - 2007 

upwards of 70, - - . 431 



26006 



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PAISLEY. 251 

In this parish) the number of unmarried men, bachelors and 
widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, amounts to 274, and of un- 
married women, upwards of 45, to 507. The deaf, dumb, and in- 
sane, are 50 in number. 

These particulars in the burgh parishes haye not been ascertain- 
ed, but they may be regarded as existing in a similar proportion 
when taken in connection with the population. 

We may add, that in proportion to the population, Paisley can 
show as many instances of longevity as most places throughout Scot- 
land. No doubt our people who are employed in mining and mecha- 
nical operations are liable to many accidents, which tend to shorten 
human life, and in some of our manufactories the employment is 
by no means of the most healthful description. Within these few 
years, however, we attended the funeral of a man* who died at 
Elderslie, in the 116th year of his age ; an individual lately died 
at Thorn, aged 100 years; and on the 20th of August last, there 
was present on a convivial occasion, a woman, in her 94th year, of 
the name of Jean, who had the pleasure of seeing, on that occa- 
sion, her daughter Jean, her grand-daughter Jean, and greats 
grand-daughter Jean, all named after each other in succession. 
Within these few weeks we know of four individuals in the town 
who have died at the venerable age of 90 and upwards. 

iMnd'Oumers. — Of landed proprietors, not a great number are 
resident. But in addition to those that reside, a considerable 
number of gentlemen who have realized, or who are realizing, an 
independent fortune, live either in the burgh, or in the country part 
of the Abbey parish. 

General Habits of the People. — There is nothing peculiar in the 
language spoken by the inhabitants of Paisley. Like that of other 
parts of the country, it may be said to have its provincialisms ; but, 
upon the whole, these are less marked than they once were, and 
within the last forty years, the language of the natives may be said 
to be much improved. 

The custom is still too prevalent of making bargains over a 
glass, as it is called, or in a public-house, and it is much to be re- 
gretted that the practice of dram-drinking is so very common as 
it is. The ice in winter, and the bowling green in summer, the 
race-course, and the theatre, are favourite places of resort with tnany 
of the inhabitants. 

* Hugh Sbaw, born in Sorbie, served under the Duke of Cumberland in 1745-6. 



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252 RENFREWSHIRE. 

The yogng, on public days, give evidence of their taste for dress. 
On ordinary days, the|girls employed in factories, or iu sewing 
manufactured goods, generally wear a large doak or mantle of cloth 
or of tartan with a hood, which may be noticed as the only peculi- 
arity in the dress^of our town. 

When trade is flourishing, the people, on the whole, enjoy, in 
a considerable degree, domestic comfort : but there are so many 
vicissitudes in the trade of the place, and reverses are so frequent, 
that after one unfavourable period, numbers have scarcely risen 
above their diflSculties, when they are again obliged to encounter 
fresh ones. The circumstances of those in the country part of 
the parish are, in general, not so fluctuating. At the same time, 
of late years, the farmers have, from their high rents, and the low 
prices of grain, scarcely made that progress with the manufacturers, 
in improving their circumstances, which, from their industry, we 
might naturally have been led to expect. 

About forty years ago, our people were reckoned among the 
most intelligent, moral and religious inhabitants of Scotland : and 
still a great many may be so considered. But various circumstan- 
ces having concurred in causing a deterioration in these respects, 
particularly since the era of the French revolution ; and our popu- 
lation having greatly outstripped the means of moral and religious 
education, many have been left to grow up in ignorance of the 
first principles of Christianity ; and too many, alas ! have had their 
minds sadly imbued with prejudices against its sacred truths and 
institutions. 

Distinguished Men. — Of natives or inhabitants of Paisley, many 
have distinguished themselves in the difierent walks of life. Some 
of these we have already noticed, and others will fall to be men* 
tioned in the sequel of this account. Others, perhaps, not less 
distinguished, but whose modesty prevented them fipom taking an 
active share in the more public scenes of life, now live only in the 
grateful recollection of their own townsmen, while we cannot but 
believe, that many of our greatest benefactors are no longer re- 
membered. 

Among persons of eminence, we may notice the following: 
Andrew Knox, a relation of the illustrious Reformer, mioister of 
Paisley, and afterwards Bu^hop of Raphoe ; Patrick Adamson, after- 
wards Archbishop of St Andrews ; Thomas Smeton, afterwards 
Principal of the College of Glasgow ; Robert Boyd of Trochrig, 



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PAISLEV. 253 

who bad been successively Principal of the Universities of Edin- 
burgh and Glasgow, and then promoted to be minister of Paisley ; 
Alexander Dunlop, father of the Principal ; Robert Millar, author 
of the " History of the Propagation of Christianity," and other 
works of merit ; John Witherspoon, afterwards President of the 
College of New Jersey, and one of the best divines of the Scot- 
tish Church; Robert Findlay, the late eminently learned and 
pious Professor of Theology in Glasgow College ; Robert Tan- 
nahill, the author of many beautiful Songs ; Alexander Wilson, 
the celebrated American Ornithologist ; Dr Robert Watt, author 
of the " Bibliotheca Britannica;" John Henning, the distinguish- 
ed modellist ; and William Motherwell, whose genius and highly 
gifted poetical talents have been lately consigned to an early 
grave. Of eminent natives still alive, we notice John Wilson, 
the distinguished Professor of Moral Philosophy in the Uni- 
versity of Edinburgh ; and Dr John Thomson, one of the orna- 
ments of the Edinburgh Medical School. The authors of the 
former Statistical Account of this parish, Dr Boog and Dr 
Snodgrass, deserve a place in any catalogue of distinguished 
men; and it is worthy of notice, that John Wilson, Esq. of 
Thomley, who rendered such eminent service in drawing up the 
articles on Agriculture and Geology in that account, still survives, 
in the enjoyment of excellent health, at a venerable age. 

V. — Industry. 
The following table exhibits a view of the amount, employments, 
&C of our busy population in the year 1831. 



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254 



RENFREWSHIRE. 



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o 
p 



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^ IS 

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O 



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I- 

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3 



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PAISLEY. 256 

Parish RerUal^^The valued rent of the parish is L. 11,944, 
ISs. 4d. Scots, the real rent L. 2'2,415, 17s. 8d. Sterling, divided 
among ninety-five landed proprietors, of whom seventeen possess 
each L. 100 Scots or upwards of annual valuation. We here sub- 
join a list of the land -owners possessed each of the yearly income^ 
from his land, of L. 50 or upwards. 

The Most Noble the Marquis of Abercom ; The Right Ho- 
nourable George Earl of Glasgow ; The Right Honourable Lord 
Blantyre; The Right Honourable Lord Douglas; Sir Michael 
Shaw Stewart of Greenock and Blackball, Bart ; Sir John Max- 
well of PoUoc, Bart ; Alexander Speirs, Esq. of Elderslie ; Lu- 
dovic Houston, Esq. of Johnston ; Robert Fulton, Esq. of Har(>- 
field ; The British Linen Banking Company ; The Town of Pais- 
ley ; Misses Dunlop of Househill, and Mrs Campbell ; James Kib- 
ble, Esq. of Whiteford ; Andrew Buchanan, Esq« of Hillington ; 
William Maxwell, Esq. of Brediland; William Barr, Esq. of 
Ferguslie ; John Wilson, Esq. of Thomley ; James Gerrard, Esq. 
of Whitehaugh ; Charles James Fox Orr, Esq. of Thornley Park ; 
Robert Smith, Esq. of Barshaw ; H. B. Stains, Esq. of Braehead ; 
Andrew Brown, Esq. of Auchentorlie : William Sim, Esq. of 
Gallowhill ; Adam Hamilton, Esq. of Lounsdale ; The Tnistees 
of the late John Shedden, Esq. of Woodside; The Heirs of 
the late William King, Esq. of Lonend ; Robert Dalgleish, Esq. 
merchant, Glasgow; J. P. Storrie, Esq. of Uiccarsbarr; Miss 
Christie, Paisley ; Trustees of the late Boyd Alexander, Esq. ; 
Heirs of the late Robert Barclay, Esq. of Glen ; Robert Orr, Esq. 
of Lylesland ; The Heirs of the late William Peock, Esq. of 
Meikleriggs; James Sharp, Esq. merchant, Glasgow: Thomas Ro- 
bertson, Esq. of Thomleymoor; John Wilson, Esq, of Ferguslie; 
The Heirs of the late Hugh Ferguson, Esq. writer, Glasgow; The 
Heirs of the late John Bell, Esq. Woodside; Faculty of Procura- 
tors, Paisley ; Miss Braid, Carriagehill. 

Affriculture, — In the last Statistical Account, we find the fol- 
lowing remarks. " The husbandry of this parish, as of all the west 
of Scotland, was, about the middle of this century (the 18th,) in a 
most unprosperous state. The indigent circamstances of the farmers, 
their indolent habits, the want of roads, of wheel-carriages, and 
proper implements of husbandry, all conspired to obstruct the 
improvement of the soil. Till about 1770, lime, coal, grain, &c 
were generally conveyed on horseback. The old servitudes of 
carriages, kain, labour, thirlage, &c. still existed, with many prao- 



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256 RENFREWSHIRE. 

tices discouraging to the farmer, and strongly marking the languid 
state of agriculture. The spirit of improvement, however, which, 
about that time, appeared in Scotland, reached Renfrewshire ; and 
a very favourable change has now taken place. The introduction 
of artificial grasses, and the culture of potatoes, have produced a 
more diligent and accurate husbandry, and banished the pernicious 
distinction of croft and outfield.* Before 1766, there was scarce 
any hay sown" — " potatoes about forty or fifty years ago were 
brought in boats from Kintyre to Paisley market. About thirty 
years ago, farmers began pretty generally to cultivate them in the 
field." The writer proceeds to state the mode of farming which 
in his day (1791) was practised; and the plans and improvements 
which had commenced previous to that period, have since been 
prosecuted, so that, at the present day, this parish may be regard- 
ed as inferior to none in the west of Scotland, in point of cultiva- 
tion. The parish contains in all about 16,160 acres, which may 
be divided as follows. 

Tbs number of acres arable, - - - 12,700 

uncultivated, - - 700 

in mosses, sites of houses, roads, waters, &c. 1,760 

in woods and plantations, . - 1,000 

The whole may be spoken of under two divisions, the upper or 
hilly, and the lower or gently rising, the soil of the former being 
free, light, and on a dry bottom, or whinstone, or what is called 
rotten rock, which readily absorbs water ; that of the latter being 
what we described, under Topographical appearances, as thin, 
and generally resting on a till bottom, the till being a mixture of 
stone and heavy clay, hard and retentive of moisture. 

Bents, — ^^The average rent of land in the upper division may be 
stated at L. 1 per imperial acre ; and that of the lower at L. 1, Ids. 
but there are some farms, particularly in the neighbourhood of the 
town, which bring from L. 3 to L. 4 per acre. Of late, grain rents 
have to a considerable extent been adopted. 

The average annual expense of grazing a cow may be stated at 
L.4; and that of a sheep at 12s. But very few sheep are rear- 
ed m this parish. 

Wages, — The rate of wages for a first rate ploughman, found in 
bed and board, is reckoned at L. 20 per annum ; and that of a first 

• " The distinction between cruft auvl outBcld prevailed very generally in the old 
and imperfect husbandry of Scotland. The croft, consisting of a few acres nearest 
the farm house, was perpetually in crop, and received the whole manure of the fkrm. 
The outfield was the open pasture land, which was occasionally ploughed in patchas 
for oau till they were exhausted» and then left to rest." 



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PAISLEV. 257 

rate female servant,' found in the same, at L. 9 per annum. Both 
male and female servants of inferior qualifications, are paid accord>< 
ing to their ability, or the agreement made with their employers. A 
common labourer, with provisions, may be procured in winter for 
Is. 6d., and in summer for 2s. per day. Artisans {are employed 
at f3s. or 4s. each per day. 

The hushandry pursued by the farmers is of the most approv- 
ed description. The soil, in general, although not originally of 
the most fertile quality, has become very productive by cultivation ; 
many inducements are held out to husbandmen, by the prospect of 
a ready market, for every kind of crop, as well as by the facility 
of procuring manure from the neighbouring towns and villages. 
Tile-draining has of late been airried to a considerable extent, 
particularly on the estates of the Marquis of Abercorn ; and this 
improvement may, in several places, be profitably carried to a still 
greater extent than it has yet been, the nature of the soil requir- 
ing it ; and we doubt not a little more encouragement from the 
landlords, of which the parish affords more than one example, 
would induce the farmers to do so, and this would prove an ad- 
vantage to both. The lands are all well enclosed; those in 
the upper district, chiefly with stone dikes, those in the lower 
with hedges. The farm-houses and offices, especially the re- 
cently built ones, are for the most part covered with slates, while 
they are both substantial and commodious. The average extent 
of each farm is about 100 acres, and the duration of leases from 
ten to nineteen years. There is not much large or old timber 
in the parish ; the greater part is found on the Hawkhead estate, 
which also contains any copse-wood that grows in the parish. Any 
other wood we meet with is generally raised around gentlemen's 
houses, and is under good management 

Ltive^StocL — The horses reared in this neighbourhood are ge- 
nerally of the Clydesdale breed, which is considered very superior. 
These horses are perhaps the most vigorous of any in Great Bri- 
tain, and* our farmers keep them in excellent condition, finding, 
doubtless, that they repay the care bestowed on them. There 
are also a few of what are called half-bred horses raised in the pa- 
rish, and on one estate in it, a good many racers and hunters 
chiefly for the use of the proprietor. 

The cattle are of the Ayrshire kind, to which a good deal of 
attention has been paid, particularly in the high district of the pa- 



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258 RENFREWSHIRE. 

rish, encouragement being held out to this, by the premiums an* 
nually given by the Agricultural Society of Paisley. The average 
value of a good stock of cows may be reckoned at the rate of L. 1 1 
each, some superior ones being valued as high as L.20 each. The 
average quantity of milk yielded by a cow of the breed referred to 
is about 1200 Scotch pints, or 600 gallons a year, which will pro- 
duce about 1 30 pounds of butter, the value of which, with that of 
the milk was, for the last year, about L. 11. To this is to be ad* 
ded the sum of about L. 3 for manure, which will make the annu- 
al produce of each cow about L. 14 Sterling. 

The few sheep reared in the parish are chiefly of the Leices- 
tershire species. 

As the farms in the Abbey parish are situated in the neighbour- 
hood of large towns and populous villages, the dairy produce forms 
an important item in the returns made. The milk is, in general, 
converted into butter, and butter-milk, except in those farms in 
the more immediate neighbourhood of the towns and villages, 
where the cream only is churned, the skimmed milk being easily 
disposed of. 

Crops. — The usual rotation of crops is as follows : oats out of lea 
or after hay ; potatoes or turnips, with 35 square yards of good farm- 
yard manure, per imperial acre ; wheat, barley, or oats, with clovers 
and grass seeds, sometimes cut green, but commonly made into 
hay. The barley or oats are generally allowed a slight dressing, 
with ash or short dung. These remarks apply chiefly to the low- 
er district of the parish, as the farmers in the higher seldom sow 
wheat. They generally adopt what is called the four-shift course, 
sowing the clover and grass seeds along with the barley or oats 
after the green crop. They then pasture their land for three years, 
which those in the lower district seldom do. Oats are sown in 
March or April, barley in April, or as soon after the oats as the 
weather will permit, and wheat in September or October. Linie 
is generally applied on the lea, in the high districts, and on po- 
tatoe ground in the low. The iron plough is commonly ifsed. The 
crops are generally got in in September and October ; but this 
year great portions of them, especially in the upper parts of the 
parish, were in the fields till the month of December. 

Produce, — Upon the whole, the gross value of farm produce in 
the parish, on an average of the last five years, may be stated as 
follows : — 



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PAISLEY. 



259 



In the Upper Division. 
Oats, 400 acres, yielding SO imp. bush, per acre, at 2s. 6d. per 

bush. - - . . . . L. 1500 

Potatoes, 80 H tons per acre, L. 1, lOs. per ton, 900 



Turnips, 20-10 
Hay, 300 - H - L. 2, 

Pasture, 900 - - - L. 1, 

Uncultivated, 700, of which one-half might 
be profitably improved ... 



15s. 



56. 



In the Lower Division. 
Wheat, 1980 acres, yielding 92 imp. bush, per acre at Gs. 2d. 



150 
900 
per acre, 900 

do. 175 

114525 



per bush. 
Oats, 2750 
Beans, 440 
Potatoes, 1320 
Turnips, 220 
Hay, 1540 
Pasture, 2750 



40 
28 

71 tons, 
15 
2 



L. 19536 

2s. 6d. 13750 

4s. 2464 

L.1 10s.perton 14850 

15s. 2475 

L. 8 9240 

L. 1, 158. per acre, 4812, 10s. 



L. 67127, lOs. 



L. 71652, 10s. 
Prices at different periods. — In 1594, various decrees were pas- 
sed by the baillies and council, as recorded in the community's re- 
cords, firom which it appears that the price in Scots money of 



A boll of oatmeal was L. 4. 

A threave of oat straw 28. 6d. 

A peck of bear 5s. 6d. 

A day's work of two hoises 88. 6d. 

A ewe sheep 3ds. 4d. 

A boU of white oats nine merks and 

68. 8d 
AboUofUackoatsL. 4. 
Half a boll of grey corn 3ds. 



The fee of a servant-maid for half a year 

4merka. 
A boll of malt 12 merks. 
Ploughing an acre of ground L. 3. 
A peck of groats 20b. 
A barked hyde 30s. 8d. 
A fourth part of linseed 68. 8d. 
A side of mutton lis. 
Five quarters " fine violet London claith" 

L. 10, 16s. 8d. 

In 1597, the boll of malt had risen to twenty merks, when a pound 
and quarter of butter are marked in the council minutes as sold 
for 46. 2d. Scots. In 1609, the price of three pecks of oatmeal is 
rated in the same minutes at 20s. Scots. 

The fiar prices of Renfrewshire are annually struck at Paisley 
about the beginning of March. The following are the prices Ster- 
ling for the seven years previous to 1836. 

1829. 1830. 1831. 1832. 1833. 1834. 1835. 

Best wheat, im. qr. 
Medium average 
Best barley. 
Medium average 
Best bear 
Medium average 
Best oats 
Medium average 
Best beans & pease 
Medium average 
Best oatmeal 1401b. 
Medium do. 



55s.0d. 


568. lid. 54s. 2|d. 


52b. 7d. 


47s.6^d. 


40s. 9id 


37s. (^ 


63 10 


66 6i 


63 6' 


61 4f 


46IOn 


39 11 


36 5^ 


35 2 


33 4i 


32 8 


33 4i 


29 6 


28 JH 


28 3 


34 6 


32 3| 


32 3| 


33 r 


29 2 


26 8} 


26 114 


32 3 


27 4* 
26 4| 


89 U 


31 7J 


38 4} 


25 2 


23 8| 


... 


29 7 


31 


... 


24 6^ 


... 


28 If 


27 0) 
26 44 


S2 7( 


20 4 


18 8 


22 6^ 


20104 


20 6 


21 ^p 


18 11} 


18 6} 


1910^ 


20 2 


34 


... 


36 6 


32 H 


33 


32 lU 


34 


... 


... 


36 9^ 


31 3 


... 


31 74 


... 


17 


20 7^ 


16 7i 


14 7i 


14 9f 


15 1(4 


16 5i 


16 IH 


20 5 


... 


14 7 


14 9i 


... 


14 H 










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260 RENFREWSHIRR. 



Salt butter 8d. to. Is. per lb. 
Fresh do. Is. Id. do. 

Beef4d. to7d. do. 

Mutton 5d. to 7d. do. 

Veal 3d. to 7d. do. 

Lamb 5d. to 8d. do. 

Potatoes 5d. to 5id. per stone. 



Price ofPrmnsions at present : 
Oatmeal 2s. 6^. per stone. 
Barley flour Is. 8d. do. 
Pease meal 2s. 6d. to '2s. 8d. 
Quartern loaf 9d. 
New cheese 7d. per lb. 
Old do. 7d. to 8d. 
Eggs per dozen 9d. to 1 1 d. 

Servittides. — The ancient servitudes, once so oppressive and haras- 
sing to the agriculturist, are now in a manner unknown in. this pa- 
rish ; at least the only one of them which remains is that of thir- 
lage, exacted by the Seed-hill mill, from certain lands thirled to 
it. The thirlage thus exacted, including all the dues, is about the 
sixteenth or seventeenth peck. 

Renfrewshire Agricultural Society, — This society was establish- 
ed at Paisley in 1819, under the patronage of several gentlemen 
of extensive landed property, and embracing persons of all varieties 
of political opinion. The president is Sir John Maxwell, Bart, of 
Pollock ; and among the vice-presidents we observe the names of 
Mr Campbell of Blythswood, I^ord Lieutenant of the county; Mr 
Houston of Johnston ; Mr Napier of Blackstoun, &c. Its exer- 
tions have contributed much to the advancement of agricultural 
science and its practical applications. Its members have an annual 
show of cattle, when various premiums are distributed ; and there 
is an annual ploughing-match, when various prizes are also award- 
ed. In May 1835, twenty-three prizes, of value from L. 1 to L. 5, 
were distributed at the cattle-show. Eight prizes were distributed 
at the ploughing-match in February 1836. In August 1836, there 
was an extensive cattle-show, when twenty-five prizes were given. 
This last show was accompanied with a high degree of satisfaction. 
The number of the cattle on the field, their excellent quality, the 
fineness of the weather, and the number of spectators, all conspir- 
ed to give eclat to the proceedings. It was stated by one of the 
judges, that the show was superior to the one of last year at Ayr, 
before the Highland Society. 

Florist and Horticultural Societies. — The former of these was 
established in 1782, and has been of eminent service in promoting 
the extensive and tasteful culture of flowers of all colours and 
value, by annual exhibitions, competitions for prizes, &c. The 
second has been more lately established (1832,) but it also pro- 
mises to be of great advantage in the kindred departments. The 
operatives of this place have been long distinguished for their taste 
and ingenuity in the rearing of flowers. Many of them have gar- 

4 



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PAISLEY. 261 

dens of their own attached to their houses, and those who have 
not, find no difficulty in obtaining suitable accommodation in the 
gardens of their friends, and of gentlemen in the neighboiirhood. 
In many a keenly contested struggle, the pinks, carnations, tulips, 
dahlias, &c. &c. reared in Paisley, have been honoured with marks 
of distinction ; while the occupation and relaxation attendant on 
their culture have tended to liberalize the mind, andjo promote 
habits fevourable^at once to mental and moral improvement. In 
the horticultural department, there has been for several years a 
keen stniggle in the rearing of cauliflowers, cabbages, and vege- 
tables of every description ; and this has tended very much to the 
improvement of gardening, in all the varieties of esculent produc- 
tions. 

Trade and Manufactures, — The trade and manufactures of Pais- 
ley may be traced from very small beginnings, but their progress 
in some periods has been rapid and astonishing. Not long after 
the union, when a free trade was opened with England, the spirit 
of manufacture began to shew itself here; and the fabrics which 
were produced were made upon such just and economical princi- 
ples, and with so much taste and judgment, that they found a ready 
market, not only at home, but likewise in the neighbouring king- 
dom. But the trade of Paisley at that period, owed its chief en- 
couragement to a class of men who were of great benefit to this 
country, though the occupation has now fallen rather into disre- 
pute ; we mean, the pedlars or travelling merchants from the south, 
many of whom having frequented Paisley as their staple, and hav- 
ing gained a little money by their trade, came to settle there, and 
bought up large quantities of its manufactures, which they vend- 
ed among their friends and correspondents in England. After- 
wards the merchants of Glasgow found their account in purchas- 
ing these goods, and sending them both to the London market and 
to foreign parts. Such was the state of the trade and manufac- 
tures of Paisley, from the period of the union (1707,) till about 
the year 1760. The difierent articles of which they consisted 
during that period, were, at first, coarse checkered linen cloth, and 
Bengals ; afterwards checkered linen handkerchiefs, some of them 
fine, and beautifully variegated, by the manner in which the dif- 
ferent colours were disposed, according to the taste and invention of 
the manufacturers. * These were succeeded by fabrics of a lighter 

• In 1710, Craufurd thus describes the manufactures o( Paisley. " That which 
renders this place considerably is, its trade of linen and muslin, where there is a great 



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262 RBNFRBWSHIRE. 

and more fanciful kind, consisting not only of plain lawns, but 
likewise of such as were striped or chequered with cotton, and 
others that were ornamented with a great variety of figures. To- 
wards the end of the aboYe-mentioned period, the making of linen 
gauze was a considerable branch of trade in Paisley ; and before 
the middle of it, a new species of manufacture of great importance 
was begun by the inhabitants of the place, and which they con- 
tinued long to prosecute with peculiar ad?antage : we mean, the 
making of white sewing-thread, known to the merchants by the 
name of otmce or nun*s thready as distinguished from the different 
kinds of coloured and white cotton thread, which have been 
manufactured chiefly at Aberdeen and Dundee. This valuable 
branch of trade may be said to have been imported into this coun- 
try by a lady in the neighbourhood of Paisley, who, about the year 
1725, found means to procure from Holland the machinery which 
is necessary for carrying it on, and set the first example of it in her 
own family. * Such a spirit of enterprise, of ingenuity, and of so- 
ber industjy, was not lost on the manufacturing genius of the peo- 
ple of Paisley. The business was soon taken up by them. It 
was carried on to a very considerable extent prior to the middle 
of last century ; and so long as this kind of thread was cultivated 
in Scotland at all to any extent, it had its principal seat in that 
place. 

About the year 1760, the making of silk gauze was first attempt- 
ed at Paisley in imitation of that at Spital-fields, London. The 
success was beyond the most anxious expectations of those who 
engaged in it. The inventive spirit, and the patient application of 
the workmen ; the cheapness of labour at that time, and the skill 
and taste of the masters, gave it every advantage for being natura- 
lized here. The consequence was, that nice and curious fabrics 
were devised; and such a vast variety of elegant and richly oma- 

weekly sale in its markets of those sorts of cloth ; many of the inhabitants .being 
chiefly employed in that sort of manufactory." 

• This lady was Christian Shaw, daughter of John Shaw of Bargarran, afterwards 
married to the Rer. Mr Millar, minister of Kilmaurs, Ayrshire. Her name is as- 
sociated with the history <^ witchcraft in the county of Benfrew. When eleven years 
of age, she pretended to have been betwitched ; a solemn trial of the agents in the 
infernal process was held, and three men and four women were condemned to death, 
and executed in the gallow-green of Paisley. See Amot*s Criminal Trials, and the 
** History of the Witches of Renfrewshire," for a iiill detail of all those melancholy 
proceedings. Sargarran^ where Mrs Millar resided aher the death of her husband, 
and where the machine employed by her and her daujg^ters in the manufiictory of 
linen thread is still preserved, is in the parish of ErsLlne ; and we shall leave it to 
the writer of the Statistical Account of that parish to detail, as Dr Young in the Old 
Statistical Account has done, the history of an experiment so interesting and so suo- 
ccssftU. 

3 



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PAISLEY. 263 

mented gauze was issued from the place, as outdid everything of 
the kind that had formerly appeared. Spitalfields was obliged to 
relinquish the manufacture. Companies came down from Lon- 
don to carry it on at Paisley, where it prospered and increased, it 
is believed, beyond any manufacture of which any town in Scotland 
could boast.* Indeed it not only became the great distinguish- 
ing manufacture of that town, but it filled the country round to 
the distance of twenty miles ; and the gentlemen engaged in it 
had not only warehouses in London and Dublin, but correspond- 
ents upon the continent, and shops for vending their commodities in 
Paris and other large cities and towns. About 1785, the change of 
fashion, on which this trade must entirely depend, had an unfavour- 
able effect upon it; and many of the principal houses in the place, 
while they pushed the silk branch as far as they could, entered in- 
to the muslin manufacture with their accustomed ardour, yet with 
a judgment and prudence by which men of business and of capi- 
tal are ever distinguished from rash and unwary adventurers. 
The muslin trade soon rose to an unexampled height of prosperity^ 
and its gains both to master and workmen were very encouraging. 
Of late years comparatively little has been done in this branch ; 
but the houses which are still engaged in it are of the highest re- 
spectability, and the fabrics produced, and which are chiefly de- 
signed for the London market, are unexampled in point of taste 
and elegance of execution. The ornamenting of muslins by fine 
needle-work has lately become a considerable branch of our trade* 
Such work has long been done here, but never at all to the same 
extent as now. 

It appears from the best calculation that could be made, that 
in the year 1784, the manufactures of Pai?ley in silk-gauze, lawn 
and linen-gauze, and white sewing thread, amounted to the value 
of L. 579,185, 16s: 6d; and that no fewer than 26,484 persons 
were employed in carrying them on. In 1790, when the last Sta- 
tistical Account was compiled, the total yearly value of the manu- 
factures of Paisley of all kinds, was estimated at L. 660,885, 16s. 
The progress of manufactures up to this period may be judged of 
by comparing this statement with the fact, that in 1744, there 
were only 867 looms in all employed, and the whole value of the 

* Disputes betirixt the masters and men had arisen at Spitalfields, which led to 
the famous ** Spitalfields' Act" for fixing a minimum of prices. The folly of this, as of 
every attempt of the kind, was soon proved by its utter ineptness, as a means of pre- 
venting misunderstandings and feuds ; and the Spiulfields capitalists transferred their 
capital and trade to Manchester and other places. 

RENFREW. S 



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264 RENFREWSHIRK. 

linen manufactures amounted only to L. 15,000« From the ac* 
counts transmitted annually by the stamp-masters to the Board of 
Trustees in Edinburgh for the encouragement of Manufactures, it 
appears that the linen manufacture in Paisley attained its highest 
point in 1783-4, when the number of yards stamped was within 
a trifle of two millions, and the number of looms 2000.* About 
the same period, the silk-gauze trade gave employment to 5000 
looms* a very large proportion of which were in the country villages 
around, and produced K 350,000 worth of silk goods. The manu- 
facture of ribbons, and of some other silk fabrics, was introduced 
in 1772, and was for some time carried on to a considerable ex- 
tentf 

Shawl Manufacture. — The rise of the shawl trade forms an im- 
portant era in the history of Paisley. Imitations of India shawls had 
been produced in the city of Norwich, and the town of Stockport, 
near the close of the 18th century. Much about the same time aUo» 
a lady in Edinburgh had attempted something of the kind, but not 
on such effective principles as the English manufacturers. These 
imitations were chiefly of soft silk. Some of them were sent to Paisley 
and submitted to two or three manufacturers. The muslin trade being 
then good, while shawls, it was considered, would be quite a fancy 
article, very few adopted this branch, and consequently little pro- 
gress was made for some time. One manu&cturer, however, of 
considerable ingenuity and great perseverance, embarked in the 
trade, and was eminently successful ; X others followed and with 
various success. In those days, the erection of a shawl-loom was 
an expensive concern. The manufacturer had to advance a great 
proportion of the money required. This, along with the risk of a 
fancy article, when so much outlay was necessary, deterred many 
from taking up the trade. By the exertions of several ingenious 
weavers who had . made a little money, conjoined with the well- 
known intelligence and persevering industry of the operatives whom 
they engaged for the work, many obstacles were overcome. At 
length the shawl trade became of more importance than the muslin 
branch. The working classes were greatly benefited by the change, 

• Wilson's Surrey of Reofrewshirc, p. 241. f Ibid pw 24a-4. 

J This was Mr James Paterson, Orchard Street. The first inventors or impoitfrs 
of arts, are often in the end unsuccessful, in reaping the gains of their perseverance 
and industry, and this was the case with Mr P., while J. M. the weaver whom he cm- 
ployed to make the first imitation shawl in Paisley, is at present begging bis bread 1 
The fiunily of Mr P. seem to have possessed a native genius for drawing^pattems i 
and several members of it, both In I^ndon and Paisley, are still distinguiSied in that 
line. 



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PAISLEY. 265 

as the price *p9id for manu&ctured cotton worii had by this time 
been much reduced. The shawl trade now ramified to a great 
extent India imitations were produced in soft silk, in spun silk, 
and in cotton, and in mixtures of all the three. The same style of 
raised work was also done for ladies dresses on white grounds with 
small figured spots. Imitations were also made in silk, of the 
striped scarfs and turbans worn by the natives of the east, which 
from their resemblance to the skin of the animal of the name, were 
called Zebras. Very extensive exportations of these articles were 
made to the islands in the Grecian Archipelago, and to Turkey. 
An attempt was made to supersede them by means of printed goods, 
which had nearly the same appearance at first sight; but the circum- 
stance of the adherents of the Koran having been, by the precepts 
of their prophet, prohibited the use of all stained articles of manu^ 
facture, soon put a stop to this sort of traffic. This trade is still 
carried on at Paisley, though not to the same extent as it was some 
years ago. 

Still the great desideratum was a more strict imitation of the real 
India or genuine cashmere shawls. This was accomplished to a 
considerable extent by mixing fine wool and silk waste together ; 
the yarn spun for this mixture being called Persian yarn. This, 
however, was only fitted for the weft, which was generally shot upon 
a silk warp. -Something was still wanting to approximate more 
nearly to the India fabric* Several attempts were made in Nor-^ 
wich, Edinburgh, and Paisley, but none of these succeeded. At 
length, a house in Yorkshire produced an article which was very 
much liked in the market, in consequence of its fine soft feel ; and 
which they called thibet doth. It was nothing more nor less than 
a tweeled fabric of fine worsted yam made from the best of wool, 
and when scoured, raised, and cropped, it had a beautiful appear- 
ance. The house purchased borders in Paisley, and elsewhere, 
which they sewed to this cloth, and these thibet shawls made in 
Yorkshire had a long run. The Paisley manufacturers at length 
succeeded in bringing this branch also to town, and for several years 
it was one of the chief staples of the shawl trade. Still, however, 
no figures could be produced on the thibet ground. The yam 
.was too tender to stand harness work ; so that in reality, although 
the India febric was approached pretty nearly, a wide gap still re- 
mained. At length, some French shawls were introduced, so closely 
resembling the India, that it was difficult to discriminate between 
the twa Enquiries were set on foot, when it was found that the 



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2G6 RENFREWSHIRE. 

French had been making shawls for some years back^ from the 
genuine Cashmere wool ; and that they not only imported the wool 
from the east of Europe, but that they had a great many cashmere 
goats rearing in France. It became therefore an object to get 
some of the French yarn over. This was accomplished, and the first 
cashmere cloth was made in Paisley. Attempts were made to get 
the yarn spun in this country, but these may be said to have failed. 
No doubt a good deal of cashmere yarn was spun in this country, 
but it wanted that softness which so peculiarly characterized the 
French. Some of the Edinburgh manufacturers began to make 
cashmere shawls, and some beautiful specimens were produced at 
Paisley. In consequence of the fall of prices, however, the ex- 
pensive art that was at one time bestowed on shawls was greatly 
diminished* 

In connection with the above, the crape trade deserves some 
particular notice. About the year 1823, the manufacture of crape 
dresses. Damask and embroidered shawls, exactly the same as those 
imported from Canton, was introduced to Paisley, and since that 
time a great many hands have been employed in making them. 
The dexterity displayed by the embroiderers in the town and neighs 
bourhood, will bear comparison with that of any in the kingdom, and 
in many instances with that of the Chinese themselves. This kind 
of shawl is still (1837) made, although to a more limited extent. In- 
deed, the shawl trade generally has, within these very few years, un- 
dergone a great change in this place. The kinds of shawls chief- 
ly made now, are of three qualities ; the first is wholly silk ; the 
second, half silk and half cotton ; the third wholly cotton. The 
manufacture of such shawls ha.s been increasing with astonishing 
rapidity for some years past. There are several makers whose 
yearly sales amount to forty, fifty, or even L. 60,000 Sterling. The 
total sales for the year 1834, are estimated at nearly L. 1,000,000 
Sterling, and in 1835, they must have been considerably greater. 

Machinery has of late been introduced to great purpose in fi- 
nishing these shawls. Formerly each shawl employed a girl a whole 
day in the operation of what is called clipping^ for which she got 
from Is. to Is. 3d. Now, that operation is done for 2d. a shawl, by 
means of a machine of a most ingenious description ; the invention 
of a Frenchman.* By a very simple contrivance too, the expense 

* These machines were first introduced from France in 1884, by their inventor, 
^. Vergniais, of Lyons. The cost was nearly L. 900, including carriage and fitting 
up. They can now be got of Paisley manufacture for L. 40, equally good, if not su- 
perior, llie fimlity and neatness pf machine-clipping give the manufiwtarer great 

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PAISLEY. 267 

of fitting up that part of the loom which forms the pattern is like- 
ly to be much diminished. The Jacquard machine, (so named 
from its ingenious inventor at Lyons) used in place of a draw-boy, is 
now attempted to be introduced into Paisley, in an improved form, 
by a gentleman who has taken out a patent for the improvement.* 
The French lise no draw-boys, and yet they produce the finest of 
patterns, although it must be acknowledged, on a small scale. 

In this sketch of the progress of the shawl manufacture in 
Paisley, we- must not omit to notice that most ingenious^and 
beautiful species of shawls known by the French name Cheneilk 
(caterpillar;) from their variegated colour and the softness of their 
feel. They are to be seen frequently in shops labelled with the 
words : ** velours an soie" " velvet on silk ;" a name very descriptive 
of this manufacture. Mr Alexander Buchanan, now of Glas- 
gow, then of Paisley, is the first who produced a web of this][de- 
scription ; and Mr James Taylor, at present one of the magistrates 
of Paisley, was among the earliest to appreciate the value of the 
article and to manufacture it on an extensive scale. These beauti- 
ful specimens of art and taste still maintain their place in general 
estimation. 

All the trades depending upon the shawl branch have neces- 
sarily increased ; in particular that of dyeing has been much enlar- 
ged. Fifteen years ago, perhaps forty or fifty hands were employ- 
ed at it ; now ten times that number at least are engaged. 

Silk Gauze. — The silk gauze, since its revival about eighteen 
years ago, has progressed very much. Paisley now furnishes near- 
ly all the silk gauzes that are used in the kingdom, with the excep- 
tion of those imported from France. The elegance and taste dis- 
played in this branch of manufacture, with the moderate prices at 
which the goods are produced, is really astonishing. 

Cotton Thread. — In place of the linen-thread formerly made in 
this town, there has sprung up a pretty extensive cotton-thread 
trade. There are eight or nine factories employed in making this 
thread. They are propelled by steam, the whole power being about 

advantage. We know some manufacturers that could not get through their work on 
the old system ; but these machines enabled them not only to overtake the work, but 
Co extend it, which they could not otherways have done. At that time also, we had 
to compete with tlie French, who in their superior cutting had a decided advantage ; 
but they are now completely driven from our market ; we mean in the article of 
shawls. 

* The gentleman alluded to is Mr James Morison, manuiacturer in Paisley. We 
cordially wish him success in the application of his patent. Mr James Mills, pattern- 
drawer, has lately attempted with success, some improvcraenth on the common har- 
ness. 



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268 RENFREWSHIRE. 

200 horse, and the value of the thread made being above L. 100,000 
Sterling. 

Looms employed^ ifc — The number of looms in Paisley at pre* 
sent, is ascertained to be about 6000. Of these 5700 are employ* 
ed by Paisley manufacturers; the remaining 300 work to Glasgow 
houses. About 2000 looms are employed in the country by Paisley 
capital, chiefly in the neighbouring villages, but including some 
hundreds in Kilmarnock, Perth, Largs, Strathaven, &c The 
number of apprentices to the looms in Paisley is at present 728* 
The number of harness* weavers in Paisley at present, is 5350 ; 
plain weavers 650 ; female weavers 40 ; in all 6040. Each har- 
ness-weaver requires a draw-boy, for whom he pays on an average 
Ss. 6d. per week of his earnings. * 

Eegister of Inventions and Improvements^ S^e. — It is matter of 
regret, that the expense incurred in procuring patents for inven- 
tions and discoveries, should be so great, as we are convinced that 
many ingenious men of the operative classes, both in Paisley and 
elsewhere, have from this cause alone been prevented from enlarge 
ing, as they might have done, the manu&cturing genius and indu&* 
try of their country. In a letter which we have just received from 
an ingenious mechanic therQ is the following statement : " As there 
is no protection in this country, an inventor is obliged to decline 
putting his improvements into practice, as the moment they make 
their appearance they will be pirated, thereby leaving him no- 
thing, perhaps not even the merit of invention, for his trouble and 
expense." On the subject of " tables of prices," as affecting the 
progress of manu&ctures, we have received the following statement 
from a most respectable manufacturer in town, who carries on bu- 

* The following observations, by a very intelligent observer, will still apply to the 
ingenious weavers of Paisley, with this difference, that the ingenuity then (1811,) 
employed on the muslin department, has been of late years, applied to other branches, 
which were unknown at the time when Mr Wilson wrote his survey. 

** What was said of Bolton in the year 1703, may be at present strictly applied to 
Paisley : — < It is the centre of the manufiicture of ornamental or fiuicy goods, and 
it is only by emigrants from this place that any branches of this trade have been trans- 
planted elsewhere. The most ingenious part of the workmanship remains rooted as 
it were to the soil, and flourishes even amid * many discouragements.* (Aitken'a 
Hist, of Manchester, p. 262 ) The condition of the manufactures of Glasgow con- 
firms this ; for although the muslin manufacturers in that city« which is only seven 
miles distant, earry on this business to an immense extent, yet in articles of fancy- 
work, they have always been surpassed in Paisley. In fact, the superiority of the 
Paisley weavers, in these ornamented i^brics, is so fully admitted, that Taisley is re- 
sorted to as the original seat of this branch of the muslin manufacture ; and many 
weavers in this place are employed for these articles by Glasgow manufacturers. The 
most dexterous workers employed in Glasgow on these kinds of goods, -are either 
natives of Paisley, or persons who have learned their business there "—Wilson's Sur- 
vey of Renfrewshire, p. 255. 



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PAISLEY. 269 

V 

siness to a very great extent : *^ These" (minimum tables for weav- 
ing) ** I think are prejudicial to the introduction of any thing new. 
If a manufacturer has projected something which is entirely diffe- 
rent from common, the case is immediately taken up by the Wea- 
vers' Association, and a price fixed on before the maker can know 
whether it is to succeed or not. A very respectable manufacturer 
told me, that last year he thought of trying something which he 
considered entirely new ; but rather than encounter the vexation 
and turmoil of the Weavers' Association, he abandoned his pro- 
ject." 

The social and friendly habits of the weavers of Paisley have, 
from a spirit honourable to all who have cherished it, proved ini- 
mical to the claims of individuals to the honour of exclusive in- 
vention. Unlike the operatives of some other places, the weavers 
of this town have always displayed a warm and kind-hearted spirit 
of reciprocal interchange. When an ingenious improvement sug- 
gests itself to any one, his first idea seems to be, not how he may 
hoard it up, so as to make the best of it exclusively for himself, 
but rather how he may render it as useful as possible to the ge- 
neral interest And hence, it becomes the subject of immediate 
conversation in the shop, and is very naturally laid hold of as the 
common boon of all. While this social disposition has been 
unfavourable to individual interests and honours, it has not been 
on the whole adverse to the general progress of manufacturing 
skill. The suggestions of one have led to the suggestions of others. 
One mind has sharpened another ; and ideas which may have float- 
ed in an undefined form before the fancy of one man, have, by 
mental collision, been moulded into the compact and tangible shape 
of a substantial and well-accredited improvement. Thus have the 
trade and manu&ctures of Paisley been mightily benefited by the 
application of different minds to a common object, while it might 
so happen, that no one individual could exclusively lay claim to 
the reputation of discovery. 

The system of the division of labour may be favourable to the 
prosperity and wealth of nations; but it is certainly not very fa- 
vourable to the developement of original genius. When a Pais- 
ley weaver was the *' vel Caesar aut nullus," of his favourite web, 
he stood a much fairer chance of having his inventive genius called 
into play, than in these ^^ degenerate days," when thirteen persons 
interpose their services betwixt the cotton as it comes from the spin- 
ning-jennies, or the silk as it leaves the throwsters mill, and the 



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270 UENFREWSHIRE. 

same articles when placed on the counter of the merchant, in all 
the beauty and in all the tastefulness of finished productions. 

It is scarcely necessary to add, that the prodigious extent to 
which machinery has of late years been carried into all the depart- 
ments of industry, must prove unfavourable to the display of manu- 
facturing genius, while we may notice it as a striking illustration 
of what has been called tho process of compensation, in the ar- 
rangements of Providence, that the genius which is thus restrained 
in one department, is not lost to the world, but is simply transfer- 
red to another region of human activity, and developes its powers 
on a larger scale in the field of mechanical enterprise. 

In the following historical and local notices, we have attempted 
a sort of register of inventions and improvements in the history of 
Paisley manufactures. The list is confessedly very incomplete ; 
and it is matter of deep regret, that many names, well worthy of 
mention in the history of a manufacturing community, are " un- 
known to fame." 

Mr Humphrey Fulton of Maxwelton, Paisley, was the first who 
introduced the silk manufacture into Scotland. In an epitaph 
upon him in the Scots Magazine in 1782, we are informed, that, 
*' in company with his two sons he often employed from 400 to 600 
looms, and in the various branches of the manufacture gave daily 
bread to 1000, frequently to 1500 people. Many with him, have 
merited of their family : few have better deserved of their country." 

Messrs Walkers, father, son, and grandson, harness tyers in the 
warehouse of Messrs W. Fulton and Co. Maxwelton, have distin- 
guished themselves by their ingenuity in inventing plans, and most 
successfully, for facilitating the figured work on muslins and silk- 
gauzes. 

An ingenious wright of the name of Lamb, in the employ of the 
same respectable house, has distinguished himself by his improve- 
ments in the mode of making brocade frames and shuttles for fa- 
cilitating the production of figured and ornamental silk gauzes. 

The plan of the ^y -shuttle and lay was brought from England 
above forty years ago, by Mr Herbert Buchanan of Arden, silk ma- 
nufacturer in Paisley. He sent up John Robertson, one of his opera- 
tives, to Manchester to see the model, which Robertson brought 
down with him to Paisley, where it was immediately adopted, and 
IS now universally used. It has, since that time, received many im- 
provements from the ingenuity of Paisley weavers, the most import- 



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PAISLEY. 271 

ant of which was the introduction of the ^^ ten box la^" in 1812, 
by which a weaver can work with the greatest facility with ten 
shuttles without shifting them. The original " fly lay" could be 
wrought with only one shuttle. 

The machine for the singeing process in bleaching was first 
brought into use in this part of the country by the late Mr Wil- 
liam King of Lonend. It was first applied by him in the case of 
book-muslins which, about the year 1788^ were in very great 
vogue, and preferred by many .to India productions for fineness of 
fabric. 

Among the most ingenious men whom Paisley has produced, 
Messrs Robert and John Burns, brothers, stand pre-eminent. Mr 
Robert Burns, of the firm of Houston, Burns, and Company, was 
the inventor of many curious and useful pieces of mechanism in the 
departments of Dynamics and Hydro-dynamics, as noticed parti- 
cularly by Sir David Brewster, in these articles of his truly scien- 
tific Encyclopedia.* Mr John Burns invented the plan of rollers 
to facilitate the harness-work of webs ; a plan universally approv- 
ed of, and adopted by the operatives. He also suggested the ma- 
chine for drying bleached goods by metal rollers heated by steam, 
a plan which has been universally adopted by the bleachers, and 
which is capable of application indefinitely in the field of manu- 
facturing industry. In another and very difierent field, the same 
most disinterested gentleman produced twelve of the best potatoes 
reared from the plum, and exhibited at a public competition; 
for which he received a medal from the Agricultural Society. 

In 1823, Mr Alexander Buchanan produced the first specimen 
of cheneille shawl in this country, for his ingenuity in the invention 
of which he was honoured with a premium of twenty guineas from 
the Trustees in Scotland for encouraging Manufactures. 

About eight years ago, Mr Claud Wilson, weaver in Paisley, in- 
vented a species of machinery, which has proved extremely useful 
in the manufacture of carpets. His genius not finding its reward 
in this country, he went to the United States, by special invita- 
tion, and is now at the head of a large carpet manufactory in that 
country. 

Mr Alexander Lang, following up the plan of Mr Wilson, has 
improved upon his machine, so as to supersede in the manufacture 

* Vol. xi. pp. 55-2, 564. 



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272 RENFREWSHIRE. 

of carpets the use of a draw-maD or draw-boy ; and his machinef 
have been adopted to a considerable extent, particularly in Eng- 
land. 

Between the years 1826 and 1828, several unsuccessful at^ 
tempts were made, both in Edinburgh and Paisley, to introduce 
Thibet shawls. About the latter period, Mr Robert Kerr, now 
a most extensive manufacturer, turned his attention to that article, 
and after a deal of trouble and expense succeeded ; and in two or 
three years after, it became the staple article of the trade. One 
great objection at first was, the very high prices of woollen yams 
necessary for such a fine fabric ; and it is a curious fact, that when 
Mr Kerr was in England pursuing the subject, he bought the same 
yarns on the same day, in three different houses in Bradford, at 
L, 1, 9s., L. 1, 2s., and 12s. per lb. In supplying himself with 
this last, however, he took care to ask for^n« worsted. 

Mr Kerr has lately introduced an important change in the 
manufacture of Cheneille shawls. These shawls were manufac- 
tured wholly of Brutia silk, which last year rose to such a price as 
completely paralysed this branch of trade. In this emergency, 
he thought of applying spun silk of a peculiar kind, which he got 
made for the purpose, and which is termed roving or Jloss silk. It 
succeeded so well, that even the best judges could not discern any 
difference ; and it may be said to have given this branch a new 
impulse, by bringing out the shawls intrinsically as good in quality 
and appearance, and at a price that will tend to make the con- 
sumptmore general, and thereby make it a more permanent article 
of trade. 

Messrs John Roxburgh and Son have lately introduced several 
improvements in the manufacture of the richest description of 
shawls in imitation of India, the most recent of which is the use of 
fine wool for warp. This is named the CabiUe shawl, and is the 
first successful application, in this country, of the harness to an 
entirely toooUen fabric One of the finest of these CabiUe shawls 
was presented to Queen Adelaide, October 1836, which met with 
Her Majesty's gracious approbation. A premium of L. 25 was 
given for the same shawls (November 1836) by the Trustees for 
the Encouragement of Manufactures in Scotland. 

Messrs Scroggie and Gilchrist have been of singular benefit to 
the manufactures of this plac«, by the improvements they have in- 
troduced into all the departments of dyeing. Formerly all colour- 



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PAISLEY. 273 

ed silks were got from London or Edinburgh ; now, silks of the 
finest kinds, and all sorts of cloth, may be dyed equally well at 
Paisley. 

In a register of inventions and improvements, the name of Mr 
Andrew Balderston deserves to be recorded with honour. This 
meritorious individual, though not a native of Paisley, has resided 
in it for twenty-four years. He was bom at Dunfermline, and be- 
fore he left it he had, in his capacity as a damask weaver, invent- 
ed the most approved method of flower lashing. A Paisley ma- 
nufacturer (Mr James Taylor) encouraged him to apply his in« 
vention to the ordinary &ncy trade, and it has succeeded to a wish. 
Formerly one man was employed to read the flower ; a second to 
take it down ; and a third to lash it on* Now all these operations 
are done by one and at once. The system thus introduced by Mr 
Balderston has been imiversally approved and adopted by the 
trade. Mr Balderston has also distinguished himself as the in- 
ventor of the ^* cutting machine/' used in preparing the weft for 
Cheneille shawls, a simple and beautiful piece of n>achinery. For 
this he took out a patent; but it has done him little good in a 
pecuniary point of view — the invention having been so frequently 
pirated. Our ingenious operatives would require ^^ a patent-pro- 
tecting association." 

CotUm^Spinning. — The first cotton-mill in Renfrewshire, and the 
second in Scotland, waserectedon the borders of this parish, at Dove- 
cothall, near Barhead, in the parish of Neilston ; but the first extensive 
establishment of the kind in the county was erected at Johnston, 
in 1782. These erections were soon followed by others on a large 
scale in different parts of the district, and particularly in the pa- 
rishes of Neilston and Pollock, or Eastwood. Cotton-spinning com- 
menced in the town of Paisley, soon after steam power began to be 
applied to machinery for that department of manufacture.* The lo- 
cality, however, has not been found favourable to the increase of this 
great branch of our national trade ; chiefly owing to the high price of 
fiiel, and the expense of conveying the raw material from, and the 
manufactured article to, Glasgow. It is a remarkable fact, however, 
and highly characteristic of the enterprising spirit of the inhabi- 
tants, that, notwithstanding these obstacles. Paisley contained, in 

* Even prior to UiU era, Uiere were mills on the principle of hand-jennies; ai:d 
oUiers that were driven by oxen. The &ther of the present M. P. for Pai&ley was 
proprietor of one of the former of these, along with his partner Mr Davidson. 



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274 RENFREWSHIRE. 

the early stage of this wonderful trade, a greater number of cot- 
ton mills than the opulent city of Glasgow. Forty years ago, 
or a little more, there were ten mills within the burgh, and New 
Town of Paisley. Of these four were turned into dwelling-houses ; 
one into a weaving (power-loom) factory ; one was burned down : 
and two were removed, and the machinery and materials sold by 
public auction. Most of these mills were on rather a small scale, 
the largest of them (St Mirrens,) being, however, a respectable 
establishment of 10,000 or 12,000 spindles. There are^at present 
in the town two large factories, and one on a smaller scale. In 
the village of Elderslie, there is an extensive cotton mill ; and in 
the town and neighbourhood of Johnston, there are eleven of va- 
rious sizes. With the exception of two, which are driven by water, 
all of these are propelled by steam. The power employed in them 
all is estimated at that of 266 horses. The total amount of spindles 
is 90,000. The capital employed in erecting and carrying them on 
is estimated at L. 135,000 ; and the number of persons employed 
at them all is about 2700. The proprietors of these works have not 
been backward in availing themselves of the several improvements 
on the system which have been introduced since the days of Ark- 
Wright and Hargreaves ;* and it is probable that the latest inven- 
tion of all, that of the self-acting mule, will soon be generally adopt- 
ed. " The adoption of the self-acting mule will aid much in ena- 
bling the spinners of Britain to maintain a successful competition 
against the cheap labour of other countries, which have less capital 
and fewer facilities for obtaining these improved machines, and less 
skill in their management when obtained.''^ 

Besides the above, there is in the New Town of Paisley one 
power-loom-factory, for cotton cloth used in printing. An exten- 
sive factory is about to be erected at Johnston, for weaving cloth 
by machinery, which, it is expected, will give employment to 200 
or 300 persons. 

Foitnderies. — The iron foundery establishment of Messrs William 
Thomson and Co. has been for half a century in high repute, and 

• Mr Neil Snodgniss, of Johnston, was the inventor of the " cleaning machine ;*' 
which was first used in the Johnston cotton mill belonging to Mr Houston. It has 
since received many improvements, and may now be considered •* perfect.** 

t New Stat. Ac. of Glasgow, p. 145, Au^. 18ii5. To this article we refer for 
fuller details on the progress of improvement m the spinning of cotton, and particu- 
larly to the circumstances which led to the union of the patents of Mr Smith of 
Deanston, and Mr John liobertson, late foreman to Mr Orr of Crofthead, for the in- 
vention and manufacture of the most improved species of self-acting mules. 

4 



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PAISLEY. 275 

their improvements in smelting, &c. have lately added greatly to the 
extent of their business. The first steam*engine made in Paisley was 
lately set agoing as the propelling power to Mr Gralloway's factory, 
Causewayside. It is of twenty horse power, and does great credit 
to the makers, Messrs Ban* and Macnab, of the Abercorn foundery. 
Messrs Reid and Hannah, are extensive makers of gasometers, iron 
boats on the swift principle for canals, and factory machinery in 
general. Not a few specimens of their ingenuity and skill in the 
second of these departments are to be found, not in Britain only, 
but in several parts of the continent of Europe. There are in the 
town three brass founderies. 

There are in the thriving town of Johnston, two brass founderies, 
and two for iron, on an extensive scale ; with five machine manu- 
factories, employing 120 individuals, and with a steam agency of 
twenty-six horse power. Indeed we are satisfied, from many symp- 
toms, that this stirring and healthy place possesses in it the ele* 
ments of a rapidly extending and wealthy community. 

Printing of silks and other fabrics has lately been attempted 
in Paisley ; but as yet it is on a limited scale. We have one large 
ton^workf the property of Joseph Whitehead, Esq. of Kilnside 
House. The structure, plan, and whole arrangement of this work, 
are such as render it one of the first in the kingdom; and we un- 
derstand thnt in excellence of work produced it is unrivalled. We 
have three breweries^ two of them on a large scale. We have also 
three distilleries^ two in the town, and one in the country ; one 
large soap-work;* seven extensive bleachfields: and one large 
silk throwing mill, the property of Messrs Hervey, Brand, and Co.j 
of Glasgow. 

Post-Office. — The mercantile progress of Paisley may be esti- 
mated from the yearly returns of its post-office, which have been 
as follows: 1720, L.28, 13s.; 1769, L.22.% 3s. 8d.; 1809, 
L. 2814, 17s. 7d. ; 1834, L. 3194.t 

VI. — Parochial Economy. 
Markets and Fairs.— In the town of Paisley, Thursday is the 
weekly market day. During the year, there are four distinct fairs, 

* This work is one of the oldest in Britain. It has etlsted for more than six- 
ty yearsi The original firm was Messrs Christie, Corse, and Co. ; it is now Messrs 
Wflliam Sim and Co., and the article produced at this work standi very high in the 
market. 

t It would be Tery desirable, in a commercial view, that the postage to Glasgow 
were reduced from 4d. to 2d. The revenue would be no loser. 



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276 RENFREWSHIBE. 

each of three days duration.* The principal of these is St Jamesf 
Day Fair, as it is called, which is held in August. On that occa* 
sion, the chief resort of our inhabitants is the race^course, which 
of late has undergone great improvement. The Paisley races are 
of early institution, as appears fix>m a deed of council, of date April 
1606.f They have been usually run on the Friday and Saturday 
of the fair week ; but the council, at a late meeting, have resolved 
very properly, that, in time coming, th^y shall be run on the Thurs* 
day and Friday of that weeL Fairs are held at Johnston on the 
Thursday following the second Monday of July ; and on the last 
Thursday of October. This last is a cattle-market A horse- 
market is held on the last Friday of December* The fair which 
in former years used to be held at Thorn, about midsummer, 
has of late been discontinued, or rather is now held in the 
neighbouring town of Johnston, and is one of those above re- 
ported. 

Means ofComnmnicatien, ^Paisley enjoys great facilities of com- 
munication with all parts of the country. 

A post-office is established in the town, and there is another at 
Johnston. Our inhabitants enjoy the benefit of three departures 
in the day, for Glasgow and Greenock, and as many arrivals from 
these places. To and from several other towns not in the line of 
the Glasgow and Greenock roads, there is a daily post 

For passengers, a coach starts to Glasgow, every hour, from nine 
in the morning till nine at night, and as frequently returns from it 
The communication by the canal is nearly as frequent Twice 
a-day in summer, and once in winter, a coach passes through Pais- 
ley, from Glasgow to Beith and Saltcoats, as well as from Beith 

* The first, in the course of the year, begins on the third Thursday of PeA>ruaryi 
the second on the third Thursday of Maj, the third on the third Thursday of August, 
and the fourth on the second Thursday of November. 

t <^ It is concluded that ane silver bell be made of 4oz. weight, with all dilig0DCfi|» 
for ane horse race yearly, to be appointed within this burgh, and the bounds and day 
for running thereof to be set down by advice of my Lord Earl of Abercom, Lord 
Paisley and Kilpatrick." 

« In the course of the following century, this new taste of our ancestors had gain- 
ed such ground, that their excessive passion for the turf called for the interposttlon of 
Parliament. The preamble of Stat. 1621, chap. 14th, is in these terms : *< Consider- 
ing the monyfold evillis and inconvenientift whiche ensew upoun carding and dyceing 
and horse racing, whiche are now over muche frequented in this oountrey, to the 
gryit pr^udice of the legis ; and becaus honest men ought not expect that anye wyn« 
ning hade at anye of the games above-written, can do thame guid or prosper,'* &e. 
— Miscellany of the Maitland Club, printed in the year 1833, p. 197. The statute 
goes on to limit all wagers upon horse raees to the sum of one hundred merks, under 
penalty of forfeiture of the surplus to the poor of the parish. 

3 



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PAISLEY. 277 

and Saltcoats to Glasgow. Tbere are abo coshes to and from 
Renfrew and Neilston. 

About three years ago, steani-*coaches plied between Glasgow 
and Paisley, till a fatal accident, occasioned by the bursting of a 
boiler, put a period to the speculation. 

Boads and Bridges. — The roads on which the coaches travel are 
all turnpike, and they, as well as the other roads in the parish, are, 
in general, kept in excellent repair. The principal one through the 
parish and town of Paisley is the road from Glasgow, which leaves 
the Abbey parish on the west, at the distance of about nine miles 
from its entrance into it on the east It crosses a bridge over the 
Cart, which connects the new town with the old, and which at one 
period was the only bridge at Paisley. One of the arches of this 
bridge, or rather of its predecessor, was ribbed beneath, indicating a 
style of architecture, said to have been prevalent in the fifteenth cen- 
tury. Besides this bridge, there are other two which form, each a 
communication between the Abbey and town parishes. One of these 
is the Seedhill bridge, said to have been built of stones obtained 
from the ruins of part of the Abbey building, and which is near the 
Seedhill Craigs, once a favourite salmon leap, and where we are 
informed, the fish were often shot in their attempts, to reach the 
upper part of the river. The other is the Sneddon bridge, a lit- 
tle above the present harbour. Besides these, the Cart, in its pro* 
gress through the parish, is crossed by other two bridges, one about 
a mile, and the other about two miles above any of those which 
connect the new and old towns of Paisley. 

Canal. — The Glasgow, Paisley, and Ardrossan Canal was ori- 
ginally intended to proceed from Glasgow to the sea at Ardrossan, 
a distance of about thirty miles, in nearly a straight line, and a 
great part of the way through a deep valley. The adjoining coun- 
try, through which it would have passed, is very populous, — the 
city of Glasgow, at the one end of it, being the second in Britain in 
point of population ; while along its course, at short intermediate 
distances, are the towns of Paisley, Johnston, Kilbarchan, Loch- 
winnoch, Kilbimie, Beith, Dairy, Kilwinning, Stevenston, Salt- 
coats, and Ardrossan — containing, in all, about 400,000 inhabi- 
tants. Besides, the country itself abounds in minerals, such as 
coal, iron, limestone, &c An act of Parliament was obtained in 
1805 ; and the first general meeting of the Canal Company was 
held at Paisley, on the 1 7th of July 1806. The operations corn- 



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278 RENFREWSHIRE. 

menced in May 1807 ; and the navigation between Paisley and 
Johnston was opened about the 1 0th November 1810;* and that 
between Glasgow and Paisley on 4th October 1811. This cut 
between Glasgow and Johnstone, 1 1 miles in length, is all of 
the canal that has yet been completed. The breadth at the 
surface is 28 feet, and the depth 4^. In its progress it passes 
through two tunnels, — one under the Causewayside Street of 
Paisley, 240 feet long ; and the other near the west end of the 
town, 210 feet in length. The chief aqueduct bridge formed for 
this canal is over the river Cart, on the east side of Paisley. It 
is 240 feet in length, 27 in breadth, and 30 in height, with a span 
whose fine arch is not less than 84. The present cut is supplied 
with water from several brooks betwixt Paisley and Johnston. Its 
actual cost is said to have been not less than L. 180,000, a sum 
greatly beyond the original calculation. So level is the ground 
through which the cut has been formed, that it has not been found 
necessary to construct any lock, during its course. 

Besides the vessels for the transportation of goods, there were 
formerly employed on this canal two, and sometimes three boats, 
for the conveyance of passengers. These were elegantly fitted 
up, and calculated to carry 100 passengers each. Of late, this 
sort of navigation has been prodigiously increased, by means of 
the gig-boat for passengers, an immense improvement on the for- 
mer track-boat. It is the invention of an ingenious and enter- 
prising gentleman, William Houston, Esq., Johnston Castle, who 
has devoted much of his valuable time and talents to the pros- 
perity of the town and commerce of Johnston. One of these 
gig-boats starts every hour, from nine in the morning till nine 
at night, from Port-Eglinton, Glasgow, for Paisley; and from 
nine in the morning till eight at night from the Canal Basin, 
Paisley, for Glasgow. The voyage is made within the hour. 
The intercourse, by the same means, between Paisley and John- 
ston, is frequent. From the 1st of October, 1835, to the 30th 
of September, 1836, the number of passengers by these boats 
was 423,186; the fares drawn from them amounted to upwards 
of L. 9000. There are about sixty-four horses employed for the 

" On the 1 0th of November, a few days after the canal was opened between 
Pauley and Johnston, a very melancholy accident happened at the basin, near Bar- 
clay Street, in consequence of which eigfaty.five individuals lost their lives. It was 
occasioned by the heeling of the boat, while crowded with passengers, by which more 
than 200 individuals were thrown into the water. Of this accident, a particular ac* 
count, written by the late Mr D. Wallace, is given in Dr Bums*s Historical Dis-» 
serutions on the Sute of the Poor, p. 116, 1st edit. 



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PAISLEY. 279 

gig-boats, besides fourteen for the luggage-boats, &c. This canal 
affords employment for upwards of fifty-two men and seventeen 
boys. 

The following table shews the progressive increase of passen- 
gers, by this canal, for six years. 

In 1831, they amounted to 79,455 

1882, . 148,516 

1833, - 240,062 

1834, - 307,275 

1835, - 373,290 

1836, - 423,186 

The number of tons conveyed by the canal, for each of the last 
six years, is as follows : 

1831, . 48,191 

1832, - 51,198 

1833, . 53,194 

1834, . 57,853 

1835, - 60,510 

1836, - 67 305 

Baiboays. — Besides the communication to the Clyde, by means 
of the Cart, a company was formed sometime ago, with the view 
of forming a railway, to proceed from the New Town of Paisley 
to the Clyde, a little below the present landing-place at Renfrew. 
On this railway, both goods and passengers will be conveyed. 
It is now finished, and will be opened in the course of a few weeks. 

A railway is also in contemplation from Glasgow to Greenock, 
and another from Glasgow to Ayr, and Kilmarnock, and other 
towns in Ayrshire, which is expected to form part of the great 
railway from Glasgow to London. Both of these will pass near- 
ly through the centre of Paisley, and will prove of great com- 
mercial and trading benefit to the place. 

Increase of Travelling. — It may afford some idea of the great 
increase of travelling in this neighbourhood, if we bear in mind, that 
in 1814, only once a week, on the Glasgow market-day, a coach 
started from Paisley, to convey merchants to Glasgow, and bring 
them home in the evening, whereas in 1834, just twenty years from 
the former period, the passengers by the coaches to and from Glas- 
gow were about 200 daily. But we must add to these the passen- 
gers by the canal during that year, estimated at 307,275, and those 
by the Cart coastways, not fewer than 46,080, in order to form 
some idea of this vast increase ; and yet, to how much greater 
an extent, may we expect, it will be carried, when the different 
railways in contemplation are finished. 

RENFREW. T 



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280 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Supply of Water.* — At present, the inhabitants of Paisley 
are by no means well supplied with water. Some of them draw 
their supply from public and private wells, and from barrels and 
cisterns, into which rain is conveyed from the roofs of houses ; 
and a great many families purchase it from individuals, who make 
a trade of carting it along the streets, in large barrels, and selling 
it at the rate of one penny for ten gallons. The water thus sold 
is partly' filtered from the Cart, and partly supplied from wells and 
springs in the surrounding country. A supply so inadequate to the 
cofafort of the inhabitants, and the wants of public works, induced 
the formation of a Water Company in 1825, who proposed to ob- 
tain water by raising it, from the river, immediately above the 
town. But after the capital had been subscribed, and an Act of 
Parliament obtained, objections, by the proprietors of the Sacel 
and Seedhiil Mills, to the abstraction of water, without an amount 
of compensation, to which the company were unwilling or unable 
to agree, caused the scheme to be abandoned. 

Engineers having stated, that, in their opinion, a sufficient 
supply of water for the town could not be procured from any other 
source, all hope of obtaining it was abandoned, till our respected 
townsman, James Kerr, M. D., after a laborious examination of 
the Gleniffer hills, called the attention of the public, to the prac- 
ticability of procuring firom that source an ample supply, by the 
formation of one or more large reservoirs. Mr Thom, civil-en- 
gineer, was then employed to examine and report upon the scheme, 
and bis report having been highly satisfactory, a capital of L. 40,000 
was speedily subscribed, and, in 1835, an Act of Parliament for 
carrying the scheme into effect obtained. 

The company are preparing to intercept the drainage of more 
than 1600 acres, on the north eastern side of the Gleniffer Braes, 
comprehending the sources of the Espedair and Harelaw burns.-f* 
Of this drainage, the altitude ranges firom 135 to 750 feet 
above the level of the sea* Two capacious reservoirs, one of them 
having a maximum depth of 32 feet, and the other of 49, covering 
nearly 100 acres, and capable of containing about 01 millions of 
cubic feet of water, are in the course of formation. The reservoir 
nearest the town, is to be formed with two divisions, in order to have 

* ^This noti^ of the supply of water was Aimisbed by Mr W. Kerr, Surgeon, of this 
town, and Mr Stirrat at Nethereraigs. 

t The Act of Parliament gives power to inteioept the drainage of 2800 aorea. 
Sheffield, which is tupplied from a urge resenroir, deriTes its watar firom only 1800 

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PAISLBY. 281 

at all times one in which the water may be allowed to settle, so that 
the expense of filtration may be lessened or avoided. From this reser- 
voir, the water will be conveyed to the town, a distance of only a 
mile, along a stone conduit, lying near the surface of the ground. 
The termination of the conduit will be at a point high enough to 
distribute water to every street in Paisley. 

Six bleachfields and print-fields, having reservoirs attached, to 
the extent of 5 millions of cubic feet of water, are situated on the 
fispedair bum. Of these, two depend entirely, and the others 
chiefly, upon water from the drainage proposed to be intercepted. 
Hence some difiiculty was experienced, in arranging with the pro- 
prietors of these works, the terms on which they would part with 
the surplus water of the streams. At length, the proprietors made 
a proposal, which was agreed to by the company, and has been 
confirmed by Act of Parliament, which, for its simplicity and easy 
adaptation to such undertakings, is worthy of special notice. Al- 
lowmg for loss of water by evaporation and otherwise, an annual 
depth of 18 inches is supposed to flow into the reservoirs, from the 
whole of the ground intercepted. Three-fourths of this quantity 
are to be the property of the company, and one-fourth is to be- 
long to the proprietors of the works on the stream ; and this last 
portion is to be so let out from the reservoirs, as to form a constant 
and uniform stream. Should, however, a larger quantity of water 
than 18 inches annually be available to the reservoirs, measure- 
ments are to be made for three years, when the fourth part of 
the average annual quantity, then determined, is to be fixed as the 
amount of compensation in all time coming, provided the quantity 
thus measured be not less than 18 inches, which quantity is to be 
the minimum. 

No money has been given to the proprietors of public works, a 
steady and sufficient stream being admitted' to be an adequate 
compensation. 

The lower reservoir will be highly ornamental to the country, 
and the terraces formed by the large drains, which are intended 
to run almost horizontally along the brow and base of the classic 
braes of GlenifTer, will afford some of the most delightful pros- 
pects in Renfrewshire. The committee of management commen- 
ced their operations some months ago, and they expect to finish 
them in the course of two years.* 

* It is an interesting fhct, that the principle on which the present undertaking is 
founded, was acted upon at Constantinople, in the fifth century. The rivulets in the . 
neighbourhood of that citj, being eraporated in summer, to an insignificant siaei six 



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282 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Supply of Gas. — A company, with the view of lighting Paisley 
with gas, was incorporated by Act of Parliament in 1823, the 
capital being L. 16,000, which has since been doubled. The 
works are on an extensive scale, and advantageously situated, 
occupying an area of about two acres of ground, besides the space 
occupied by the gas holders at Sacell and Ferguslie. The num- 
ber of retorts is at present 52 ; but that number the company are 
about to increase. Each of these is capable of producing about 
6000 cubic feet of gas in twenty-four hours ; 40 of these have 
been in use this winter; last summer only 4 were used. The gas hold- 
ers are 7 in number, 5 at the works, and the other two already no- 
ticed. Of the 7, four can contain of gas each 20,000 cubic feet, 
two, each 18,000, and one 16,000. The reason of placing two 
of these at a distance from the works is, that the pressure of gas 
may be equalized in all parts of the town and suburbs. The coals 
used in these works are brought from different places, but chiefly 
from Ruchill, near Kelvin-dock. The quantity carbonized from 
June 1835 till June 1836, amounted to 3224 tons 10 cwt The 
charge by metre is 8s. 6d. per 1000 cubic feet, and the annual 
charge for one jet from sun-rise till 8 o'clock at night is 7s. 6d., 
till 9, 9s. 8d., till 10, lis. lOd., till 11, 14s., and till 12, 16s. 2d. 

Pipes have now been laid in almost every street, and the greater 
proportion of dwellings, shops, manufactories and churches, with 
the street lamps of the rown and suburbs, are lighted with the pure 
gas, which the company supplies. The main pipes measure up- 
wards of 50 miles in length. 

The town of Johnston is also lighted with gas, as well as several 
public works, in the country parts of the Abbey parish, the gas 
being made within their own premises. 

Management of Poor in the Abbey parish. — It was not till 1785 
that assessment for the poor was resorted to in this parish ; and the 
rapid progress of trade and population, with the consequent influx 
of strangers, will easily account for its introduction. The assess* 
ment for the first year was only L. 1J52. In 1792, when the old 
Statistical Account was published, it had risen to L. 415, and this 
sum, with about L. 125 per annum, arising from the collections at 

reservoirs were formed to contain the floods of winter, thereby preserving an ample 
supply during the whole year. — See Mathew's Hydraulia, p. 290. 

The city of Jerusalem was also supplied by Hezekiab, in a manner somewhat si- 
milar. See 2 Kings, xx. 20, and 2 Chron. xxxii. 30. According to tradition 
Solomon likewise constructed tanks for the same purpose. For information respect* 
ing these remains, sec Landscape Illustrations of the Bible, Vol. 1 st. On the sub- 
ject of the ancient aqueducts at Rome, See Leslie's Nat. PhiL Vol. i. 



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PAISLEY. 283 

church, &c. making a total of about L. 540, was sufficient for the 
annual demand for some years. The following is the progress of 
the rate since 1808, at intervals of five years : — 



1806, 


L. J570 11 10 


1827, 


- L.2630 1 


1812, 


2179 15 6 


1832, 


2476 12 7 


1817, - 
1822, 


1531 7 
1661 I 1 


1835, 


2662 19 9 



The assessment, as above stated, is in addition to the collections 
at the doors of the parish church, and other church funds, which 
of late years have averaged about L. 60. The only permanent fund at 
the charge of the session is a sum composed of various legacies, 
and amounting in all to about L. 700, the interest of which is ap- 
plied to the poor. * 

The ordinary management of the poor is conducted in the usual 
way by overseers, specially appointed at the annual meeting of he- 
ritors and kirk session, and by the elders of the parish. Monthly 
meetings are held for the purpose of granting occasional aid, and 
quarterly ones for entering paupers on the roll. 

The following table exhibits, in one view, some particulars of 
importance relative to the practical working of the system. 

Number of ordinary poor on the roll at different periods : 

Old 4r Infimu Poor children. 



1786 


90 to 100 


. 


1801-2, 


158, 


- 41 


1804.6, 


168 


- 45 


1810-11, 


- 219 . ' - 


41 


1816.17, 


272 


15 


1822, 


275 


54 


1827, 


325 


66 


1831, 


480 


58 


1835, 


471 


66 



Highest rate allowed to the regular pensioners, (except when 
confined and in a state of derangement, in which case f more is 
given) L. 3, 5s. per quarter ; lowest rate 6s. 6d. ; average of the 
whole 18s. 1 l|d. The number of occasional poor is very various, 
but the average expense of this class may be L. 150 a year. 

The principle of assessment in this parish used to be the real 
rental ; one-half on heritors, and the other on tenants. Of late, 
this has been departed from, and an effort has been made to return 

* Besides the above, there is under the administration of the senior minister 
of the parish, and three trustees, by direction of the Court of Cbancerv, the an- 
nual sum of about L. 29, the produce of a principal sum, left by the late Lady 
Grant, of Monimusk, and vested in the funds. This sum is dbtributed annually, in 
the month of January, to poor householders, who ere not receiving parochial aid. 
Lady Grant, before her marriage to Sir William Grant of Monimusk, had been mar- 
ried to Mr Andrew Miller, bookseller, London ; the son of the Rev. Robert Miller, 
one of the ministers of the Abbey parish. 

t The ordinary charge of lunatic asylums is allowed, varying from 7^. to 10s. per 
week. 



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284 RENFREWSHIRE. 

to the resolution adopted so early as August 1785 ; namely, to 
*^ proportion the sum upon the heritors, householders, and tenants 
in the parish, regulating the contribution to be paid by each indi- 
Tidual, by his property in the parish ; his trade, his means, and 
substance, and having regard to every circumstance that may ren- 
der the contribution as equitable as possible/' The stent-masters 
are annually appointed at the general parochial meeting in the 
month of June. 

Some years ago, the expediency of erecting an hospital or cha- 
rity workhouse in the Abbey parish was seriously considered. 
After due deliberation, it was finally resolved that the more advis- 
able mode was that actually adopted, of supporting the poor in 
their own houses or in the houses of their friends. In a few spe- 
cial cases, the overseers have obtained admission for their helpless 
and lunatic paupers, to the Town Hospital of Paisley, on paying a 
reasonable board. 

The following is the view given of " the duties of overseers** in 
the parish minute of August 4, 1785. It is well worthy of serious 
attention. 

** Each of the overseers elected by the meeting shall take from 
the poor's roll, a note of the poor that lie most convenient for his 
inspection ; but so that every poor person shall be under the in- 
spection of some one of the overseers ; and the overseer shall, be- 
fore the ensuing meeting, inform himself minutely of the character, 
the age, and circumstances of said poor ; what relatives they have 
to assist them ; and what work they are able to do ; so that the 
overseer may know as accurately as possible, what sum may be ne- 
cessary for their support, and that thus no more may be given than 
what is absolutely so ; and, as the prevention of any unnecessary 
rise in the assessment will greatly depend upon the attention of 
overseers to this part of their duty, it is unanimously agreed, that 
every overseer shall, for every poor person whose circumstances he 
has neglected to inquire iuiOj forfeit (he sum of Jive shillings Ster^ 
lingi to be applied to the use of the poor!* 

Management of Poor in the Town Parishes by the Kirk'Sessionsm 
— The sessions of the three parishes within the bounds of the ori- 
ginal burgh a/e distinct and independent in all matters of discipline, 
but they form one general sessiontor the care of the poor, by decreet 
of the Court of Session 1782. Under its exclusive management 
are placed the collections at the three town's churches, sums aris- 
ing from proclamation of banns, &c &c The average of annual 
collections at these churches for ten years prior to 1817 was 



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PAISLEY. 285 

L. 754, 15s. lo 1823 the amount was L. 745, 1 Is. and since that 
time the average has been about L. 700. The sessional income 
from other sources averages about L. 60 additional ; and, by means 
of these funds, all the regular and occasional poor on the com- 
munion rolls of the Established Church and Gaelic Chapel are 
supported. The number of regular pensioners at present is 200, 
who receive from 6d. to 2s. 6d. weekly, according to circumstan* 
ces ; the average being a fraction above Is. To some hundreds of 
occasional poor and poor householders, donations of money, coals, 
clothes, and provisions, are from time to time given according to 
circumstances. The business of the general session is managed 
by a staqding committee, consisting of four elders firom each ses- 
sion, who meet monthly for enrolling paupers, inquiring into cases, 
and paying the elders for any outlays during the preceding month 
for occasional poor, — a discretion to this extent being granted to 
the elders in their respective quarters, subject to monthly review. 
Each elder is understood to visit the regular poor in his propor- 
tion monthly, and to pay them their aliment They are also ex- 
pected to inquire into their general character, attendance on or- 
dinances, state of the children of the poor as to education, &c. 
Prior to 1828 the general session had the entire charge of the 
whok poor in the three parishes, and their funds were aided by a 
portion of the hospital assessment, varying from L. 50 in 1809, up 
to L. 500 in 1827. But the burden thus laid on the elders was 
excessive ; and an i^eement was entered into in 1828 by all par- 
ties having interest, to the effect that the sessions, retaining their 
ovm funds, should take charge of all the poor, regular and occa- 
sional, on the communion rolls of the Established Churches and 
Gaelic Chapel ; and that all others should be placed, by a civil ar- 
rangement, under the superintendence and control of the managers 
of the Town's Hospital. This species of voluntary agreement has 
on the whole wrought well. A prodigious relief has been granted 
to the elders, while their avocations as elders partake far more of 
the character of a spiritual agency. 

On the first Sabbath of each year, an extraordinary collection 
is regularly made in the three parish churches of the burgh, which 
is devoted as a new-year's gift to the relief of respectable members 
of the church who, generally speaking, receive no other assistance 
during the year. As a specimen of the readiness of the congre- 
gations to contribute to the aid of this interesting class, we notice 
the amount of last new-year's day collection, L. 134, 12s. 8d. This 



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286 RENFREWSHIRE. 

amount was distributed among nearly 400 persons, in sums which 
on the whole averaged 6s, to each. 

Town's Hospital — Till 1740 assessment was totally unknown 
in the town of Paisley. That year was one of extreme seve- 
rity on the poor of Scotland generally, and the circumstances 
of Paisley, as a rising manufacturing town, tended to an in- 
crease of pauperism. In 1740, an assessment, to be paid weekly, 
was laid by the magistrates on the inhabitants, and overseers were 
appointed to allocate and to distribute it These acted along with 
the minister and elders of the parish, in the joint charge of the 
poor. In 1750, the necessity of an asylum for maintaining 
the aged and infirm, together with poor and destitute /children, 
was strongly felt ; and for this purpose a substantial and commo- 
dious building was erected in 1752. It is built in a free and airy 
part of the town, and has a large garden belonging to it The 
only addition made to it of late years has been the erection of a 
small lunatic asylum, which has proved of immense advantage both 
for the recovery of insane persons, and the safe and comfortable 
keeping of such as are fatuous and incurable. The house is under 
the management of fifteen directors, who are chosen annually, — 
three from the town council ; one from each parish session ; and the 
rest by the rate-payers from among the inhabitants at large. It is 
conducted on the strictest principles of economy, and with great 
attention to health, cleanliness, and good order, and has hitherto 
answered the ends of its institution, as much perhaps as any erec- 
tion of the kind. It is visited daily by an experienced surgeon, 
annually chosen by the directors, and paid out of the fuhds. It is 
visited also weekly, and occasionally by a committee of directors, 
and a meeting of the whole number once every fortnight takes 
the regular superintendence of its concerns. The internal manage- 
ment is committed to a master, who has also the charge of educat- 
ing the children ; a clerk who, along with the treasurer, manages all 
financial concerns; and a matron, who, with one or more house- 
maids, has the more immediate care of the household economy. 
The master also takes charge of the employment of the inmates ; 
for it has been all along a leading principle in the management of 
the house, that while the young are duly .educated, the adults, so 
far as practicable, shall be employed in some kind of useful in- 
dustry. The particular kind of work in which they have been 
employed has varied from time to time, according to the state of 
manufacture in the town. At an early period of the institution, 



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PAISLEY. 287 

the principal work for both old and young was spinning of cot- 
ton yarn on the wheel; but since the invention of machinery, this 
kind of employment has been entirely given up. For a time, when 
the children were more numerous than they are at present, they 
were partly employed as piecers in cotton mills, and at tamb our- 
ing within doors. At present, a few of the men are employed at the 
loom ; the boys who are in any degree forwarded in their education 
are engaged in operations connected with the manufactures of the 
town ; the girls who are beyond the age of mere children assist in 
the work-of the house ; a few of the women are employed in wash- 
ing, and in attending the kitchen, some in winding yarn, others 
in sewing and knitting; but the far greater part of the inmates 
are employed in reeling lashes for the manufacturers. The pro- 
duce of labour cannot, in a pecuniary view, be very great; but ha- 
bits of industry are favourable both to comfort and to morals. 

It IS the custom for the master to take all the young people'along 
with him to church twice every Sabbath ; and, immediately after 
theirreturn from the afternoon service, they are taken into the school, 
and are employed in reading the Scriptures or religious tracts, re- 
peating hymns and catechisms, and other rehgious exercises till the 
time of supper and family worship, when they assemble along with 
the whole household in the public hall. Of late, it has been cus- 
tomary to ask the services of one of the clergymen monthly on 
these occasions. The duty of conducting daily worship, morning 
and evening, devolves on the master ; but on those Sabbaths when 
the clergyman does not attend, and when the master is engaged 
with the catechising of the children, the religious exercises of the 
evening are conducted by one of the directors, or by a pious lay 
member or office-bearer of the church. The sick and bed-ridden are 
attended to in the same way, while the clergy and elders of all de- 
nominations have at all times free access to the inmates. 

An annual examination of the Hospital School is held, when 
the ministers of the town, the magistrates, and directors are in- 
vited to attend. On these occasions, it has been customary for 
the ministers to pray with, and to exhort, the people both old and 
young. This annual examination is not only useful to the chil- 
dren and their teacher, as a stimulus to diligence and exertion, but 
it may also be considered as a seasonable pastoral visitation to the 
aged, many of whom are bowed down beneath a load of sorrows 
and infirmities, and stand in need of consolation, while others, 



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288 RENFREWSHIRE. 

whose habits are depraved, require serious remonstranoe) and 
grave rebuke. 

The following table exhibits the number of inmates in the hos- 
pital, old and young, at different periods, with the expense of their 
maintenance : 



1750, 


46 


L.a0O19 2i 


1769, 


81 


- . 236 14 34 


1778, 


61 


- 464 13 9 


1789, 


115 


- - 6fl0 16 2 


1795, 


134 


688 4 


1800, 


124 


1133 19 2 


1810, 


134 


1349 19 Hi 


1817, 


155 


. - 1424 3 04 


1823, 


]59 


1004 1 1 


lfrS5, 


220 


. 1347 6 5 



If from the above sums we deduct the expenditure on repairs, 
furniture, and utensils ; on children at nursing out of the house ; 
on grants to the general session for the poor, &c the actual cost 
of maintaining each pauper in the house will not amount to L. 4 
per annum. 

Till 1828, the kirk-«essions took entire charge of all the poor 
out of the hospital, and to this end were assisted by annual grants 
from the hospital assessment Since 1828, the burden of manag- 
ing the out-door poor, with the exception of those in communion 
with the Established churches, has devolved on the directors of the 
hospital, with the assistance of about sixty managers, chosen indis- 
criminately from the town at large. The mode of management 
thus adopted is essentially the same with that already described in 
the Abbey parish. The gross expenditure for last year on both 
in and out-door establishments of the hospital has been L. 2502, 
Os. 9d.» 

Distributions of Charity by Public Bodies. — There are six incor- 
porated societies, (Merchants, Weavers, Wrights, Tailors, Shoe- 
makers, Maltmen, &c.) who distribute considerable sums annually 
to their poor members ; but the amount cannot be ascertained. 
Nor, indeed, can these distributions be considered as properly of 
an eleemosynary nature. The members have paid their terms of 
entry with the societies, and are thus entitled to relief as may b^ 
with this limitation, that the precise amount is not settled as in 
the case of a friendly society, but is left to the discretion of the 
managers. The following mortifications are lodged in the hands 

* For additional information on the subject of the poor in Paisley, see Dr Bums*s 
** Historical Dissertations on the poor.** 



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PAISLEY. 289 

of the towD-counci], for the benefit of poor persons, aged and in- 
firm, and subject to the specifications of the several donors. 

Alms House mortificaiicm, - L. 250 6 8 for benefit of 3 poor peraons, 

Mrs Armour's do. 56 11 1 do. 2 do. 

Robert Akiander's do. 112 2 2 do. 2 do. 

Bobert Peter's do. 166 13 4 do. 3 do. 

James Maxwell's do. J 00 do. 4 do. 

Park and Hutcheson's do. 200 do. 4 do. 
BaiUie Reid, a grant ofland producing at pre* 

sent a yearly rent of 51 11 3 do. 4 do. 

Miss Maxwell of Williamwood, GOO do. 8 lamilie«. 

The above trusts have been judiciously and impartially admini- 
stered, and mucjh benefit has been the result to many poor indivi- 
duals in old age who have seen better days. 

Relief grarUed to the Poor by Disseniing Congregations. — The 
duty of granting relief to poor members is generally recognized 
by the dissenting bodies of this place. In 1817, the annual 
amount thus granted was estimated, from pretty correct data, to be 
about L. 650. * We have endeavoured to obtain a return of the 
distributions during 1836, by the four leading dissenting congre- 
gations of Paisley, but have received for reply, that *^ the informa- 
tion requested cannot be obtained ;" as$ " in present circumstances^ 
there is a fear of the use that might be made of such statements." 

Friendly Societies. — Of these institutions, Paisley has had a due 
proportion. By the middle of the seventeenth century, we find 
them in operation, and by the beginning of the eighteenth, every 
trade seems to have had its society for the support of decayed 
members. About the middle of that century, these were again 
followed by a class of societies assuming each the name of a lo- 
cal district, as the " Croft," and the " Maxwelton" societies, or the 
more general appellation of the " Princes," the " Ayrshire," the 
'* Cumberland," &c. Such was the assiduity of members in ge- 
neral, and especially of the annually elected deacons, during the 
period they were in office, to add to the number on the roll^ that 
scarcely a young man escaped being a member of one or more of 
these institutions, of which, by the beginning of the nineteenth 
century, the town could number twenty-five, all in operation. 

The mode of calculation, however, on which such societies should 
be founded was not as yet properly understood ; so that although 
those in existence were productive of much benefit to the town in 
general, and to their members in particular, it was soon found that 
a miscalculation of the demands on them, or of the wants or dis* 

* Dr Burns on the Poor, p. 161, 1st edition. 



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290 RENFREWSHIRE. 

tress they were intended to relieve, would speedily bring about 
their ruin. As they declined, however, others arose in their room 
both in the town and Abbey parishes. 

Hitherto, no observations had been|^made, on^the proportions 
existing between the periods of health and of sickness ; nor was 
it possible, from the nature of these societies, which gave out their 
aliment as a matter more of charity than of right, to arrive at any 
satisfactory conclusion, by an examination of their experience. 
It was seen, however, that a want of sufficient income was the ra- 
dical defect, and to remedy this, the friendly societies then in ex- 
istence demanded from their members, an annual payment, in addi- 
tion to their entry money, varying from a penny to sixpence a week ; 
and of these reformed societies, Paisley had twenty-two by the year 
1810. Although for a time the funds of these associations ra- 
pidly increased, there was still a defect in their constitution. The 
anxiety of their promoters to remove all idea of charity, from the 
minds of the receivers, made it imperative on every member, what- 
ever his station in life might be, to take his]^aliment,''and thus the 
demands were again increased to a higher rate than the supplies 
could afford. One great point, however, was ^gained, that of the 
ratio of health and sickness, which put it in the power of the cal- 
culator, to fix the amount of aliment that a^society might^ allow, 
from a given contribution, or from theamount of aliment required, 
to fix the necessary contribution. With this view, in 1815, one 
of the societies, consisting of 450 members, appointed a]^ commit- 
tee to examine its own operations, from the date of its commence- 
ment in 1802. The experience of other five societies was after- 
wards obtained. In 1820, the subject was taken up by the High- 
land Society of Scotland, and in returns made to them, the expe- 
rience of seventy-nine associations was procured ; and it is worthy 
of remark, that the proportions found to exist, in the six societies 
in Paisley, whose operations were examined, scarcely varied from 
that of the seventy-nine, furnished to the Highland Society. We 
subjoin a copy of the result of the annual examination of the ope- 
ration of the society, which gave rise to the improved system, from 
which it will be seen that these useful institutions are now based 
on such rational and scientific principles as may secure their per- 
manence, and th^t, by a method which requires on the part of 
the accountant or clerk to the society, only a knowledge of the 
common rules of arithmetic. 



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PAISLEY. 



Sf91 



Result of examination of the operations of the Young Friendly 
Society in 1835. 



< 

21 


13 


Sickness 

to an 
individ. 


Sickness 

to the 

society. 


Mortality 

to an 
individ. 


Mortality 

to the 

society. 




1 

44 


11 


Sickness 

to an 
individ. 


Sickness 
to the 
society. 


Mortality 

to an 
individ. 


Mortality 
to the 
society. 


.675 


7.475 


.0101 


.1313 


.9)2 


9 9-"i 


.0159 


.1749 


2*^ 


a 


.676 


4.608 


.0102 


.0816 




45 


8 


.962 


7.696 


.0174 


.1392 


2»s 


10 


.578 


5.780 


.0103 


.1030 




46 


16 


1.032 


16.512 


.0179 


.2864 


24 


4 


.581 


2324 


.0104 


.0416 




47 


12 


1.108 


13.296 


.0182 


.2184 


2<^ 


6 


.585 


2.925 


.0105 


.0525 




48 


6 


1.186 


7.116 


.0185 


.1110 


21. 


4 


.590 


2.360 


.0106 


.0424 




49 


9 


1.272 


11.448 


.0189 


.1701 


27 


3 


.596 


1.788 


.0108 


.0324 




50 


15 


1.361 


20.415 


.0193 


.2895 


2b 


4 


.603 


2.412 


.0109 


.0436 




51 


16 


1.431 


25.216 


.0212 


.3392 


2Si 


7 


.611 


4.277 


.0110 


.0770 




52 


11 


1.541 


16.951 


.0217 


.2387 


M 


8 


.621 


4.968 


.0111 


.0888 




53 


7 


1.633 


11.431 


.0221 


.1547 


31 


7 


.631 


4.417 


.0120 


.0840 




54 


12 


1.726 


20.712 


.0226 


.2712 


32 


9 


.641 


5.769 


.0123 


.1107 




55 


11 


1.821 


20.031 


.0248 


.2728 


3a 


12 


.652 


7.824 


.0126 


.1512 




56 


U 


1.918 


21.098 


.0255 


.2806 


34 


13 


.663 


8 619 


.0128 


.1764 




57 


9 


2.018 


18.162 


.0261 


.2349 


3S 


8 


.676 


6.400 


.0129 


.1032 




58 


12 


2.122 


25.464 


.0269 


.3228 


M 


14 


.688 


9.632 


.0130 


.1820 




59 


3 


2.2.30 


6.690 


.0294 


.0808 


»7 


19 


.702 


13.388 


.0133 


.2527 




60 





2.246 




.0303 




3t 


14 


.718 


10.052 


.0147 


.2058 




SI 


1 


2.250 


2.250 


.03:2 


.0312 


•it 


15 


.737 


1 1.065 


.0149 


.2235 




i2 





2.736 




.0343 




4f< 


13 


.768 


9.854 


.0151 


.2963 




;3 





aioo 




.0355 




41 


20 


.784 


15.681) 


.0154 


.3080 




d4 





3.700 




.0389 




4'^ 


20 


.814 


16.280 


.0156 


.3120 




d5 


1 


4.400 


4.400 


.0429 


.4029 


42: 


21 


.852 


17.892 


.0158 


.3318 


























431*788 




7.0984 



Aliment paid January till June, 
Do June till December, 



There ought to have been paid as above 431 weeks at 8s. 



There ought to have died 7.0964 

Whilst there only died 7. 

Owing on life assurance, .0984, in money 



Over sickness. 



^104 2 d 

71 8 4 

£175 10 7 

172 14 4 

£2 16 3 







Four members left the society leaving stock, - £ 23 12 

Interest received, investments at 5 per cent. j£ 105 2 10 

Do calculated at 4 per cent - 84 2 3 

21 7 



4 11 
£3 1 2 



44 12 7 



From which deduct the above loss, and there is left to be carried to 

the surplus fund, - - - - £41115 

When it is considered that 45 of these societies exist in the 
town, and 5 more in the villages within the Abbey parish of Pais- 
ley, the members of each varying from 1'20 to 500, and each with 
a distribution annually of from L. 45 to L. 265, a hope cannot 
but be entertained, that the rising generation will not require so 
much assistance in old age as their fathers received, from the esta- 
blished parish rates. 



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292 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Among the friendly societies of Paisley, we cannot omit noti- 
cbg the ^* Female Union" and the *^ Female Friendly^" both found- 
ed in 1820, and managed entirely by respectable females of the 
operative classes, and for their relief in sickness. They have suc- 
ceeded on the whole remarkably well, and deserve to be exten- 
sively imitated. 

Dispensary and House of Recovery. — In 1786, a public Dispen- * 
sary was established in Paisley by subscription ; and about fifteen 
years after, a commodious ^* House of Recovery'' or public infirmary 
for the reception of persons labouring under contagious disease was 
erected. Additions have from time to time been made to it ; and 
it now accommodates about 45 patients. It is managed by a com- 
mittee, annually chosen by the subscribers, along with all those who 
may be annual subscribers tf> the amount of L. 3^ •%. and upwards. 
Its more immediate superintendence is committed to a house sur* 
geon and apothecary ; a matron, and two or more house-servants, 
as may be required. Six of the medical practitioners m town act 
as medical directors, and visit the patients in the houde, and those 
on the rolls of the dispensary. Two of the managers, with a me- 
dical director, visit the house weekly, or oftener if necessary, and 
report their observations in a book kept for the purpose. In 1835, 
the patients admitted to the benefits of both departments were 
1595 ; and the number in all since 1786 has been d6,26a The 
expenditure of the year 1835 was L. 466, lis. lO^d. ; a small sum 
indeed, when we take into view the immense good done to the fa^ 
miUes of the poor, and to the general health of the place. An an- 
nual report is published, of the numbers and cases admitted, with 
the several results, the lists of diseases on the journals of the house, 
state of accounts, and general management for the year. 

The following table will shew the comparative number of Fever 
cases, and those of general distress, which have been received into 
the house during the last ten years. 

Admitted. Fever. Other Admitted. Fever. Other 

Diseases. Dfseaset. 

1826 136 101 34 1831 428 404 24 

1827 192 164 28 1832 600 682 18 

1828 336 313 22 1833 331 302 29 

1829 186 169 17 1634 676 666 It 

1830 110 92 18 1836 463 445 18 

Philosophical InstituHon. — In 1808 several gentlemen of scien- 
tific and literary taste associated together for the establishment of 
a philosophical institution, embracing all the branches of physical 



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PAISLEY. 293 

research, together with literature and the belles lettres. With the 
exception of the Andersonian Institution at Glasgow, no society 
of the same nature was at that time known to exist in Scotland. It 
was agreed to have courses of lectures by the members who vo- 
lunteered their services, and these lectures were accompanied with 
free and friendly conversations on the respective subjects. The 
first lecture was given on the 2d October 1809, by a late vene- 
rable minister of the Secession church in this place, Dr William 
Ferrier ; and its subject was, ^^ The nature and objects of philo- 
sophical research." In 1812, the institution was incorporated by 
charter from the magistrates and council. From that period till 
the present day, it has been continued in various degrees of pros- 
perity. While single lectures on miscellaneous subjects have been 
delivered, from time to time, by the members, a course or series 
has occasionally been given by professional gentlemen of the town : 
e. ff. On meteors and meteorology, by Dr James Kerr ; on Physi- 
ology, by Dr A. K. Young; on astronomy; and on Geology, by 
Rev. Dr Burns ; On Electricity, by Mr John Kennedy, and Mr 
Greorge Miller, &c At different times, lecturers have been spe- 
cially appointed at the expense of the institution ; and among these 
we mention the names of Mr John Steele, Mr John Murray, Mr 
John Kennedy, and Mr Hugo Reid. The present lecturer is 
Mr William Patrick, a licentiate of the Church of Scotland, au- 
thor of a volume on *^ the Botany of Lanarkshire," and to whose 
talents for Statistical research this work has on more than one occa- 
sion been indebted.* 

Attached to the institution, there is a valuable library of 500 
volumes on various subjects connected with arts and sciences, che- 
mistry, natural, moral, and experimental philosophy and history. 
To this library, the Rev. Dr Chalmers, when minister of the Tron 
Church in Glasgow, was a liberal benefactor. 

The museum contains a valuable collection of minerals, consist- 
ing of silver, copper, lead, and iron ores, of great variety and beau- 
ty. It contains also a complete set of the casts of the Elgin 
marbles, presented to the institution by the artist, our ingenious 
townsman, Mr John Henning. Among the articles of a curious 
and interesting nature may also be noticed, a set of large horns of 
the North American moose-deer; a set of spiral horns of the goat 
or sheep kind from the East Indies ; Esquimaux fish harpoon ; 

" See Articles «' Hamilton,** <' CambusUuig,** &c 



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294 RENFREWSHIUE. 

matchlock gun from Java, &c. The apparatus consists of an ex- 
cellent air-pump, and a variety of other philosophical instruments. 

It is deeply to be regretted, that an institution so valuable in a 
moral, as well as in a philosophical point of view, should not 
have met with more countenance from the inhabitants of Paisley. 
We are disposed to think that, in the view of the erection of an 
academy, provision should be made in its structure for a large lec- 
ture room, which may be used also for inspections and public ex- 
aminations of the schools ; a museum, and libraries, both philo- 
sophical and literary. We know few things that would tend more 
to raise the tone of thinking, and the scale of educational attain- 
ment 

Hope Temple Museum, — The articles belonging to the Philo- 
sophical institution have been lately lent to Mr Small, Mr Young, 
Mr Duncan, and other patriotic gentlemen of the place, who have 
established a museum, with public gardens, &c. at " Hope Temple," 
a space of several acres in the immediate vicinity of the town, which 
had been tastefully laid out many years ago by the then proprietor, 
John Love, Esq. a native of the place, and whose name will long 
be fresh and fragrant, in the esteem of all who can appreciate the 
claims of genuine and enlarged benevolence of heart. 

School of Arts* — In such a manufacturing community as this, 
much advantage would arise from the institution ofa school of arts 
or of design. It would foster native talent, and encourage a taste 
for the drawing of elegant patterns. Lectures on the department 
of design, and on the general principles of taste might be given ; 
and thus the belles lettres and philosophy might be made to pay 
homage to the genius of manufacturing industry. A repository 
for inventions, patterns, models, &c might also be formed on the 
plan of the admirable agricultural institution of this kind at Stir- 
ling, so creditable to the Messrs Drummond. We rejoice that the 
plan of a school of arts has been seriously proposed here, and that 
several gentlemen of enterprise and capital in the town have re- 
solved to give it their most deliberate attention. 

Provident Banks, — The Paisley Provident Bank was instituted 
in June 1815. At a public meeting called by the magistrates, a 
body of trustees and committee of directors were appointed, and 
a cashier chosen ; and the bank was opened in November of that 
year, under certain regulations, which were afterwards amended in 
1820, and confirmed by the Justices at a General Quarter Session 



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PAISLEY. 



295 



in March 1821. No sum less than one shilling is received, and no 
interest is paid on any sum less than L, 1, 5s. The deposits are 
lodged in the Paisley and Union Banks. The general superin. 
tendence is vested in fifteen trustees, chosen annually at a gene- 
ral meeting of the subscribers to the security fund of L. 1000. A 
standing committee of six of these takes the immediate charge. 
The cashier is named by the trustees annually, and finds security 
for his intromissions at the sight of the trustees, who meet once a 
year for the review of the transactions of the preceding year, and 
other business connected with the institution. 

It was considered of high importance, that the institution should 
contain within itself the means of its own existence, instead of be- 
ing indebted to general eleemosynary aid ; and on application to the 
Paisley and Union Banks, the only banks then in the town, they 
generously agreed to allow five per cent on the money to be deposit-:*' 
ed with them, which enabled the directors for some time to pay. 
to the depositors four per cent, leaving the remaining one per cent 
and interest on fractional sums, applicable to the defraying expen- 
ses of management The rate of interest has since fluctuated ac- 
cording to the money market ; but the directors have always been 
enabled from the same source to allow depositors the same rate 
as was generally allowed by the other banks to their mercantile 
customers. The subjoined statement will shew the yearly pro- 
gress of the institution. 

Statement of cash received and paid by the Paisley Provident 
Bank, since its commencement on Idth November 1815. 

Received, includ« Payments made to Sums paid into Interest paid 
ing interest put to depositors, includ- Paisl«'y & Union to depos. whose 



( 


credit of depositors 
at annual balance 
30th or 31st Oc- 


ing sums paid into 
the Paisley and 
Union Banks on 


1 


tober. 




interest receipts 
for their behoof. 




£ 8. 


d. 


<£ 8. d. 


1816, 


1192 10 


10 


459 19 


1817, 


725 19 


6 


466 6 9 


1818, 


1312 1 


10 


699 5 9 


1819, 


1596 4 


8 


1445 10 


1820, 
1821, 


1677 4 
2661 11 


!!♦ 


1358 10 114 
1626 5 5 


1822, 


3193 4 


^ 


2118 13 7^ 


1823, 


2526 4 


10 


2822 18 6 


1824, 


2861 


10 


3037 10 


1825, 


3634 18 


8 


3072 18 5 


1826, 


2550 5 


11 


4183 10 2 


BENFREW, 







Banks, on interest 


accounts were 


receipts in name of 
depositors, as stat- 
ed in the preceding 
column. 


closed, over 8c 
above the sums 
stated as paid in 
second column. 


£ I 


u d. 


£ 


s. d. 






3 


19 1 






3 


14 






6 


7 10 






16 


16 3 






8 


11 3 






11 


6 10 






18 


2 10 


380 





18 


16 6 


280 





18 


7 5 


710 





14 


16 6 


1366 





L7 


6 5 




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296 




RENFREWSHIRE. 










1827,£3012 1 


5 


£2419 18 


4 


£570 








£12 1] 


9 


1828, 3598 


10 


3292 5 


5 


1125 








14 7 


8 


182y, 2753 18 


5 


3122 17 


3 


770 








12 6 


5 


1830, 3146 


6 


3189 17 


8 


1040 








10 4 


2 


1831, 3502 19 


4 


8025 8 


4 


1005 








11 1 


11 


1832, 3275 8 


4 


3367 15 


2 


920 








13 18 


7 


1833, 4428 11 


4 


8536 7 


1 


1115 








11 17 


7 


1834, 4804 16 


1 


4777 15 


3 


1260 








18 7 


6 


1885, 5091 7 


10 


4696 2 


9 


1365 








16 1 


5 


1836, 4520 6 


8 


5361 13 


9 


1255 








28 12 


5 



£62,059 19 5 58,080 11 3 13,161 286 14 6 

In April last, the Town (~])ouncil resolved to receive small depo- 
sits of money on the security of the property and revenues of the 
burgh. Deposits of L. 1 to L. 30 are received by the chamber- 
lain at his office, every lawful day ; and four per cent of interest is 
'.allowed. The sum deposited in this savings bank up to the Isl 
.of January last has been L. 6040, 9s. dd. ; and the number of de- 
positors 501. The first sum received was on the 14th April 1836. 

On the same principle, the trustees of the River Cart did, in 
December last, agree to receive deposits of money at the rate of 
five per cent* on the security of the revenues of the river and pro- 
perty of the trust, from L. 1 to L. 50. 

It is desirable that all these institutions should be consolidated 
into one large establishment, under the newly fixed Parliamentary 
provisions, so advantageous to institutions of this nature. 

Of institutions of the nature of a manege^ there are many in 
Paisley, and they have been the means of much good. 

It is matter of regret that the principles of Life Insurance for 
widows and heirs are so little understood in this place. A fa- 
vourable commencement has been made ; and with one institu- 
tion an investment has been insured by about forty individuals to 
the extent of upwards of L. 20,000. 

Benevolent Societies. — The ** Widow and Orphan Society** has 
existed since 1776. With its small property, aided by an annual 
collection, it distributes its bounty in money, provisions, and coals, 
among several hundreds of most needy and grateful recipients; and 
is deservedly a great favourite with the public ^^ The Female 
Benevolent Society" was established in 1811, and has been most 
efficient in the relief of aged female poverty. Its income for some 
years past has averaged L. 200 per annum ; and it has been in the 
habit of distributing money, and especially articles of female cloth- 



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PAISLEY. 297 

ing, among between 600 and 700 individuals. There are also 
institutions for the support of a school for educating the children 
of Roman Catholics; for instructing the Deaf and Dumb; for 
Gaelic Missions; for reformation of manners; for promoting 
temperance, &c. These are all conducted on the usual principles, 
and receive more or less of public countenance. 

Jail ajid Bridewell. — These were erected in 1820, and, in point 
of situation, security, healthfulness, and general arrangement of 
rooms, are unexceptionable. But they are both grievously defec- 
tive in regard to the means of solitary confinement, of suitable 
classification, and of moral and religious instruction. 

In the c7at7, there are nineteen apartments for prisoners confined 
on criminal warrants, and fifteen for prisoners on other warrants. 
Since the act was passed, limiting the imprisonment of debtors 
to sums above L. 8, 6s. 8d., very few prisoners of this description 
have been incarcerated ; and thus greater facilities are afibrded for 
accommodating prisoners of a different description. The number of 
criminal prisoners of all kinds during last year has been 319 ; and 
of debtors, 195. Of male criminals there have been 264 ; and of 
females, 55. Of both classes, 29 were under fifteen years of age. 
Of the whole number of criminals, 72 could neither read nor write. 
The number of prisoners at present, debtors and criminals, is 54. 
There are three small yards intended for airing grounds; but 
they are never used. Neither keeper nor turnkey reside within 
the jail, but in front of it No kifid of work is permitted within 
Uie jaiL 

The Bridewell contaiins forty -two cells; an hospital for the sick; 
and two airing grounds. The average number of inmates is 32 ; 
at present there are 39 ; of these 30 are males, and 9 females. 
At an averaffe of the usual inmates, 6 or 7 are under seven- 
teen years of age. A teacher attends one hour a day. There 
are at present 4 that cannot read, and this is generally the ave- 
rage. The inmates are employed in weaving, picking wool and 
foreign skins ; winding yam, veining or hand-sewing, &c. The 
produce of work in 1835 was L. 192, 18s. 5d.; and the gross ex- 
penditure was L.273; the difference being made up by a grant 
from the police assessment The diet is porridge and milk to 
breakfast, broth and bread to dinner; two meals a day; and on 
Sabbath, broth and a portion of beef are allowed. 

The numbers committed during last year were 188 ; of these 



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298 RENFREWSHIRE. 

133 were committed for the first time; 20 for the second ; 6 for the 
third; 8 for the fourth; 3 for the fifth; 1 for the sixth; 2 for the 
seventh ; I for the eighth, ninth, tenth, eleventh, twelfth, thirteenth, 
sixteenth, seventeenth, twenty-ninth, thirtieth, thirty-first, and thirty- 
second times. In regard to the last four of these instances, it was 
the same individual ; and this is commonly the case in four or five 
other instances. The inmates sleep in couples. Classification, 
silence, and proper discipline are attended to in this prison, to as 
great an extent as the limited space, and the supply of bed<-clothing 
for the sleeping cells, will admit A library of religious books is at^ 
tached to the prison, under the charge, and at the expense, of a so* 
cietyof young men, who attend every Sabbath morning to give out 
and receive the books, and to converse with the inmates on their 
contents. The books are greatly valued by the inmates, and well 
used by them. Attendance on chapel is generally held out to, and 
viewed by, the inmates as a great privilege. This Bridewell is un- 
der excellent management ; and accomplishes its end as fully as 
any one of the extent in the kingdom. 

A chapel, very commodious and well arranged, is common 
to jail and bridewell ; and divine service is regularly conduct- 
ed on Sabbath evenings by the Established and Dissenting Pres* 
byterian ministers of the place. Pious laymen occasionally visit 
both jail and bridewell, for imparting religious instruction ; and a 
medical attendant for both is specially appointed ; but there is fw 
chaplain for either ! 

No subject of national police or of public morals requires more 
loudly parliamentary interposition than the state of the prisons of 
Scotland. The exertions of the " Prison Discipline Society of 
Scotland" deserve every encouragement; and their late admirable 
" address," with its very valuable " appendix," ought to be exten- 
sively circulated, and seriously pondered by every well-wisher to 
the best interests of mankind. Secretary of that society, Dr Gre- 
ville, Edinburgh. 

Faculty of Procurators. — The " Faculty of Procurators" before 
the courts of Paisley and Renfrewshire was incorporated by royal 
charter, 24th June 1803. The office-bearers consist of a dean, 
treasurer, clerk, three councillors, three examinators, and a libra- 
rian. Its members at present are 50 in number. The library 
is an excellent collection of the best standard law books. The fii-^ 
culty form also a society for mutual assurance in favour of the wi- 
dows of members. 



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PAISLEY. 299 

Medical Famliy. — The medical practitioners in Paisley and 
Johnston are at present 84. There is a ^^ Medical Society" 
in the town, for mutual improvement by monthly meetings, read- 
ing essays, conversation, &c. A valuable medical library is at- 
tached to the House of Recovery, in whose committee room the so* 
ciety holds its meetings. From the funds of this institution, the 
sum of L. 10, lOs. is annually given to the library, as a small ac- 
knowledgment of the valuable gratuitous services of the faculty. 

New Coal Company. — A company has been lately formed for 
working the coal in the fields of Hartfield and Meikleriggs, within 
a mile of the town. If the coal is good and in sufficient quantity, 
the additional supply thus furnished to the town will be of essen- 
tial service to its trade and manufactures. 

Periodicals^ 8fc. — The Paisley Repository, 2 vols. ; the " Harp 
of Renfrewshire," a collection of ancient and modem poetry, chiefly 
the products of the district, with interesting biographical sketches 
of the "poets of Renfrewshire;" and the "Paisley Magazine," 
edited by the late Mr Motherwell, and characterized by talent and 
varied local information, — may be mentioned as favourable speci- 
mens of the periodical and ordinary literature of Paisley. 

Newspapers. — A very respectable weekly paper, entitled, " The 
Paisley Advertiser," published every Saturday morning, has sur- 
vived considerable opposition, and promises to maintain its present 
position from the &irness of its details, the soundness of its prin- 
ciples, and the judgment and good sense which generally charac- 
terize it Its circulation is at present greater than at any former 
period. Another weekly journal, called the Glasgow Saturday 
Evening Post, and Paisley and Renfrewshire Reformer, is printed 
at Glasgow, and published there and at Paisley at the same hour. 
It advocates ultra-radical politics, and is eagerly perused by those 
who are attached to these views. Sixty years ago only one news- 
paper was known as coming to Paisley. It belonged to the ma- 
gistrates, and it lay on the council table for the use of respectable 
freemen* Its name, the Edinburgh Courant Now, there are com- 
paratively few individuals above the lowest rank who do not enjoy 
the luxury of a peep at least, into one or more of these influential 
organs of public sentiment 

Libraries. — The " Public Subscription Library" is a valuable 
collection of miscellaneous literature. It now amounts to 4500 vo- 
lumes, and it is supported by 200 subscribers. The " Trades Li- 
brary," supported chiefly by the operative classes, is a very extensive 



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300 RENFREWSHIRE. 

and valuable collection of several thousand volumes. Most of the 
congregations have libraries of religious books attached to them^ 
for the use of the members and the public There is a library of 
theological books, to the extent of 800 volumes, supported by volun- 
tary subscription. Of " Book-clubs" the number cannot be stated* 
They have long been in high repute ; and their periodical sales 
have been the means of introducing many valuable literary works 
into the houses of the members. 

Stereotype PrirUing. — Printing by stereotype has been lately be- 
gun in Paisley by Mr Alexander Gardner, Bookseller and Sta- 
tioner ; and we have at present before us a very promising speci- 
men of the work in a neat edition of the psalms and paraphrases 
of a small size, and very moderate price. The psalms are accom- 
panied with the valuable notes of John Brown of Haddington, 
abridged ; and the paraphrases have appended to them what we 
never saw before, a short summary of the contents of each, with 
the name and biographical notice of the author. We understand 
that Mr John Neilson, long well known as a printer in this place, 
has commenced business in the same line. 

Lithography. — Lithograph printing, writing, and ornamental 
sketching, are executed with great beauty and exactness by Messrs 
Robert Hay and Son, at the Advertiser Office. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

In bringing our remarks on the town and parishes of Paisley to 
a close, we cannot help expressing our belief that this locality 
possesses an interest to which few, if any other, places in Scotland 
can lay claim. Whether we wander on the banks of its streams, 
or follow the antiquary to the ruins of its castles, or to the remains 
of its far-famed abbey, or dive into the pits of its richest minerals, 
or ascend the heights of nature or of art, and gaze on the extent 
and beauty of the scenery around, or accompany our intelligent 
farmers in their healthful occupations, or visit our extensive fac- 
tories teeming with their busy population, or examine our schools 
and places of moral and religious instruction, — we meet with 
much not only to interest, but also to instruct. But deep as 
is the impression which the present aspect of Paisley is calculated 
to make, the impression becomes much deeper when we compare 
Paisley as it n6w is, with what it was when the old Statistical Ac- 
count was published, and with what, from its continued progress, 
it is likely at no distant day to become. 

Compared with its state when the Statistical Account was pub* 



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PAISLEY. 301 

Ushed, forty-five years ago, Paisley has made an astonishing pro- 
gress. In agriculture, those improvements which were then com- 
menced, had raqpidly advanced by the time (1812) in which Mr 
Wilson of Thornly published his excellent agricultural survey of 
Renfrewshire, to which reference may be made for farther infor- 
mation on this important branch of statistics. Since that period, 
again, improvements have been carried to a still greater extent ; 
additions have been made to the land under cultivation ; draining, 
in its different styles, has been introduced, fences are more parti- 
cularly attended to, the most approved rotation of crops has been 
adopted, the most improved implements of husbandry are in use, 
and the recently erected farm-steadings greatly surpass those of 
former days, in neatness, commodiousness^ and comfort. We have 
therefore every reason to conclude, both from what has been al- 
ready done, and from the spirit which prevails among our farmers, 
as well as from the encouragement which the Agricultural Society 
holds out, in all departments of rural economy, that no improve- 
ment will be introduced into any county of Scotland, without iSnd- 
ing its way to the parish of Paisley. 

But the change appears still greater, when from the rural dis- 
tricts we turn to the town. Its population has nearly trepled. Its 
public buildings, its private dwelling-houses, its streets, its whole 
appearance as a town, indicate the advance of wealth, of refinement, 
and of public spirit We have now a police establishment, well de- 
fined and effective. Paisley is no longer a mere village, of no 
weight absolutely in the political, scale of the nation, — it has its 
own representative in the supreme legislative assembly of the em- 
pire, to express its mind, and to watch over its municipal and 
commercial interests. We have now our ^' castle,'' with all its ex- 
tensive and valuable offices for the public business of the county 
and the town. We have our bridewell, one of the best construct- 
ed and best managed in Scotland. We have our Coffee-room, 
reading-rooms, libraries, book-clubs, and weekly periodicals of 
intelligence. In addition to the *^ PubUc Dispensary," which 
existed in an infant state when the last Statistical Account was 
published, we have now a commodious and well managed Infir- 
mary or house of recovery. We have now, also, our societies or 
public associations for law, for medicine, for philosophy and the 
arts. In place of one banking establishment on a small scale, we 
have now two of well-established credit, and which the town claims 
as properly her own; three branches of banks which have their prin- 



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302 RENFREWSHIRE. 

cipals in Edinbui^h and Glasgow ; and two provident institutions. 
Of Fire and Life Insurance agencies we have nineteen ; and in ad- 
dition, the " Amicable Mutual Assurance and Endowment Society 
of Scotland," established on the most liberal and economical prin- 
ciples, has here a prosperous branch. The old ^^ Friendly Socie- 
ties/' which were generally established on fallacious calculations, 
have either died away, or are giving place to institutions of the 
same nature on better principles. Our visits to Glasgow, which, 
fifty years ago, were made at respectable intervals by tradesmen 
on foot, or by those who could afford it on horseback, are now 
made hourly, in all the varied modes which land or water carriage 
can command. These are some of the visible and palpable points 
of comparison between our town as it was and as it is ; and look- 
ing on Paisley even in these external relations, candour must say 
of it, that it promises to be, in a higher sense than it has hitherto 
been, one of the great rising communities of Scotland. 

But Paisley must stand or fall by its manufacturing industry ; 
and it becomes a very serious question, what may be the state and 
prospects of Paisley in this respect ? At the time of the last Sta- 
tistical report. Paisley had enjoyed a lengthened period of manu- 
facturing prosperity, and it continued to do so for a good many 
years after. Perhaps the most prosperous days for Paisley were 
those from 1803 to 1810, when the Continent was the seat of war, 
and when the maritime and commercial preponderance of insular 
Great Britain was propitiously felt in all her marts of trade. A 
good workman could, at that period, realize by the labour of his 
hands from L. 1, 5s to L. 2, 10s.,a*week I The consequence was 
an overstocking of the trade, and a glutting of the markets. Some 
extensive failures occurred, and by 1812, a most serious check 
had been given to our manufactures. From that time till 1830, 
we have had our seasons of pros|)erity and of decline; we have 
waxed and we have waned ; but never did our operatives regain 
their former position of gainful industry. Time and the succes- 
sion of events work wonders, and for the last eight years Paisley 
may be said to have been in a prosperous condition. Experience 
has taught many salutary lessons. The branches of trade have been 
multiplied. Operatives have not been so ready to bring up their 
children to their own trade, but have sought out other means of oc- 
cupation, — looking beyond, it may be, the magic circle of the 
family fireside, and sending them to a distance that they may be* 
nefit other places by those mental energies which might have 



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PAISLEY. 303 

pined for want of encouragement and a &ir field at home. The 
business of master manufacturers is now conducted on better prin- 
ciples. Their goods are not now entrusted exclusively to agents 
in London or at a distance, who might possibly feel little interest 
in an immediate and large return. Their eyes have been opened 
to the terrors of these dismal abodes, — bonding warehouses I Part* 
ners in the respective concerns have periodically gone forth to the 
great marts of commerce, to be their own salesmen, or agents in 
their own pay have been duly commissioned. Branches of Paisley 
houses have been established in London and other great fields of 
commerce, and the connexions thus formed have been of high 
benefit, both to the parties concerned in them, and to the trade at 
large. Improvements on machinery have been received with 
readiness by the manu&cturers of Paisley, and applied to use on 
a scale which, when compared with former days, may be termed 
extensive. On the whole, we apprehend that the prospects of 
this place, in regard to the improvement and extent of its manu- 
factures, were never more bright than at the present moment. 

In anticipating the future progressive advancement of [Paisley, 
in wealth and consequence, we count a good deal on the improved 
modes of communication which are at present in progress. That 
swiftness, ease, and cheapness of conveyance will, as a matter of 
course, lead to a vast increase of travelling, both on business and 
on pleasure, is strikingly illustrated by the fact, that the Paisley 
Canal, which used to have its 20 or 30,000 passengers annually, can 
now boast of somewhat approaching to half a million, while multi- 
tudes continue to travel by coaches or by waggons ; and we have 
no doubt that the improved navigation of the Cart, combined with 
the formation of not less than three rail-roads, to the Clyde at Ren- 
frew, to Greenock, and to Ayrshire, with corresponding relations 
to Glasgow, will add unspeakably to the extent of intercourse be- 
twixt Paisley and a vast multitude of places of great and growing 
importance. Thus the conveyance of raw material, of coals, corn, 
and goods of all kinds in a safe, quick, and moderately expensive 
mode, will afibrd many facilities to the extension of our trade. A 
community which has hitherto been exclusively devoted to manu- 
fiictures, and which has looked to Glasgow as its only medium of 
commercial communication, may gradually acquire a commercial 
character of its own, and thus begin to look up, like Aberdeen and 
Dundee, in the manly confidence of a rapidly growing indepen- 
dence. 



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304 RENFREWSHIRE. 

When we look at Paisley in a moral and religious view, we have 
our hopes mingled with many fears. Since the last Statistical Ac- 
count was published, the religious character of the place has much 
deteriorated. French infidelity and Sunday drilling, combined 
with other causes to poison the principles, and relax the ha- 
bits of the rising generation ; while the rage for political reading 
and speculation abstracted the minds of the operatives from the 
more profitable, but less exciting matters of religion and the Bible. 
In the meantime, our educational and religious means did not keep 
pace either with the advancing population or the growing dege- 
neracy. Indeed, education amongst us has all along been, and 
even at present is, in a very low state ; and so long as a decent 
pecuniary encouragement is wanting to that most useful dass 
of citizens, the teachers of youth in elementary branches, we 
can scarcely expect any rapid change to the better. The in* 
come of many private teachers in this place and neighbourhood 
does not exceed L. 30 a-year. The means of public religion 
and of pastoral superintendence have not been adequate to the 
exigencies of a growing population ; and that beautiful paro- 
chial economy, which the fathers of the Scottish Reformation 
handed down as a most precious boon to their successors, has 
become in this, as in all our large communities, Ijttle more than 
a shadow. The moral influence of the ministers of religion is at- 
tenuated just in proportion to the extent of surface over which it 
is diffused ; while divisions among Christian professors, partly poli- 
tical, and partly religious^ are not favourable to an harmonious, 
well- concentrated, and persevering assault on the strongholds of 
the common enemy. * 

And yet we are not without our " lights" amid the " shadows." 
Even in a religious point of view, for intelligence and accuracy of 
sentiment, for zeal in benevolent and religious enterprise, and 
for general decency and sobriety of deportment. Paisley, with all 
its faults, will stand a comparison with any city of the same extent 
in the kingdouL From her pulpits, of every denomination, the 

* Dissent in Paisley is of comparatively modern growth, and it has been occasion- 
ed chiefly by mismanagement on the part of the gua^ians of the Established Church. 
The two Relief churches, which are the largest of the dissenting meeting' hoases in 
Paisley, are flagrant prooft of this. The West Relief was built in consequence of 
the refiisal of the town-council to erect a church in the western district in 1 781 ; and 
the East Relief was occasioned bv a similar refusal in 1807, to abandon the plan of 
roufnng seats, and to build an additional church. Early in that year, the general 
session had memorialised the council for a fourth church, but no measures whatever 
were adopted for its erection. 



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PAISLEY. 305 

sacred truths of the gospel of peace are preached in purity. No 
place can boast of a more pains^taking and efficient eldership. No 
where have more commendable effi:>rts been made in aid of church 
extension, and her becoming ally. Christian education. On the 
whole, the hopes of her best friends are high ; and they are so, 
mikinly because based on the assured triumphs of truth, rather 
than on the anticipated growth of commercial greatness. 



From the following passage in ^* Bannatyne's Memoriales," late* 
ly printed by the Bannatyne Club, it appears that the Abbey and 
Place of Paisley was at one time a kind of fort of considerable 
strength. 

<^ In the meantyme (Jan. 1570-1,) Paisley was taken from the 
Lord Semple's servandis be the Hammiltounes, andbe thame keipit 
till that the Regent (Lennox) with his forces tuike it and delyver- 
ed the place in keiping to the Lord Cathcart. Great moyen was 
made to raise the seidge, and so to frustrat the poure Regent of 
that enterpryse ; but God assisted him then so that he gat the 
Place of Paisley randerit without promeis or compositioune, uther 
than the Regentis will, undeclaired." P. 82. A more full account 
of this affair is given by the Regent Lennox in his " Letter of In- 
structions to Robert Pitcairn, Commendator of Dumfermling, Se- 
cretary of State, &c." printed in the Appendix to this very valuable 
work of the Bannatyne Club, 1836. " Upone Weddinsday the 
xviL of Januar instant, Claud Hamilton, accompaneit with Johnne 
Hammiltoun of Drumry, sonne to the Bischope of Sandandrois, 
Arthour Hammiltoun of Myrretoun, and utherisof that name, with 
a nowmer of souldiouris, come and be force enterit in the Abbay 
and Place of Paisley, pertening to the Ix)rd Sempill, now being pri- 
soner and captive in thair handis ; and hes takin sum of his freindis 
and servandis presoneris, and reft, spoilzeit^ and away takin his 
horsis and utheris guidis being thair, and put a garrysoun in the 
samin Place and Abbay, intending to retene and keip it be force ; 
the same being and continewing in the possession of the said Lord 
Sempill, sen the dispositioune maid to him thairof, efter the foir* 
faltore orderlie led, als weill aganis the said Bischope of Sandan- 
drois, usufructuar and lyfrentar of the benefice, as aganis the said 
Claud Hammiltoun, nominat successor to the same ; and sensyn, 
the said Bischope in persoun hes cum to the said Abbay, and thair 
fensit and haldin courtis in name of the queue, the Kingis moder, 
minassing the tenentis that he will be payit of thrie zeirs rentis bi- 



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306 RENFREWSHIRE. 

gane ; and hes alredie begune and spoilled and reft diverse horsi^ 
and guidis fiirth of the grund of my awin propir landis of Dernlie 
and Cancklystoun. (Cruikystoun.)'' In the reply on the Queen's 
part to this complaint of Lennox, it is maintained that Sempill had 
consented to the surrender of Paisley, ^^ quhilk being ane place of 
sic strenth culd not easselie be takin gif himself had not consentit 
to the same." P. 362. A pretty fair explanation is also given in the 
sequel of the other matters of complaint on the part of the Regent. 
On 20th October 1572, the General Assembly complain that ^^ messe 
is said in certane places of this countie/' and Paisley is particu- 
larized, and the civil power is importuned to use means ^^ For ap- 
prehending of the messe sayaris, and also the hearesis, to underlye 
the law." P. 278. Thirty years after, Lady Abercorn being a Pa- 
pist, gave no small trouble to the session and presbytery of the 
bounds, and proved a great enemy to the progress of the Protestant 
faith* It appears that in Popish times. Paisley was one of the four 
places in Scotland to which pilgrimages were made.* 

K. B. — Since this Account was written a dark cloud has come 
over our manufacturing prospects ; but we trust that the stagna* 
tion will be only temporary. 



In addition to the acknowledgmeDts made in the course of the preceding account, 
the compilers beg to offer their sincere thanks for the yaluable assistance received 
from the following gentlemen in the seTeral departments noticed : 

In Geology, — Dr A. K. Young; Mr William Kerr : Mr George Miller, of the 
Blantyre Cotton Works, formerly of Paisley ; Mr Wilson, Junior, Hurlet ; Mr 
Oatt of the Hurlet Alum Company; and Mr Montgomery of Cloak, who has been 
lately honoured with a piece of plate (value 25 sovereigns) by the Highland Society, 
for his valual)le Essay on the Mineralogy of Renfrewshire. 

In the departmenU of Topography and Ecclesiastical Antiquities, — The Rev. W. 
M. Wade, A. M. Minister of Trinity (Episcopal) Chapel ; Mr Gbsrfbrd, Johnston ; 
Mr John Dunn, Writer, Paisley ; and Mr M* Julian, Glasgow. 

In the department of Agriculture, — Mr Carlile of Houston ; and Mr William Glen 
of Hawkhead Mains. 

In the departmento of Trade and Manufactures, — Mr Alexander Carlile; Mr 
Archibald Yuile, manufacturer, Paisley; Mr George Miller, Blantyre; and Mr 
Robert Lang. 

For the article on <* Friendly Societies/' we are indebted to Mr Alexander Bor- 
land, of the Western Bank. 

in the article on <* Civil History" we have availed ourselves of some valuable pa* 
pers which had been drawn up by two intelligent citizens now gone, — Provost Wii- 
Itam Carlile, and Mr Gibson, Town-clerk of the burgh. 

To Mr Campbell, Sheriff-substitute ; Mr Smith, Secretary of the Maitland Club ; 
Mr Gavin Lang, Town-clerk, and his partner, Mr Wilson ; Mr Alexander Gibson, 
Depute-clerk to the Justices of Renfrewshire ; and to other gentlemen whose names 
^ not mentioned, we owe many obligations for the use of their libraries, and fbr im- 
portant information on various branches connected with the Statistics of Paisley. 
The gentlemen of the Maitland Club obligingly acceded to our request for the use 
of their plates of the seal of the Monastery— R. B. R. M. 

* Notes to Renfrewshire Characters and Scenery, p. 96. 

Paisley, Feb. 13^A 1837. 



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PARISH OF NEILSTON. 

PRESBYTERY OF PAISLEY, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. ALEXANDER FLEMING, D. D., MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History.* 
Name. — Tradition has handed down various accounts of -the 
origin of the name. By one of these, it is derived from one of 
. Haa/s generals, called Neill^ who, with his routed division, flying 
from the battle of Largs, was overtaken, in a field near Kirkton, 
by the Scotch army, and slain. A tumulus, according to the 
fashion of the times, was raised oVer his grave, and a stone set up 
to mark the spot, which was ciiUed Neilstone; — and hence the 
origin of the name. Another account is, that, in the reign of 
Malcolm III., Donald, Lord of the Isles, having raised an insur- 
rection against his sovereign, was met by Malcolm, and, after a se- 
vere conflict, was routed at a place called Hairlaw, on the bor- 
ders, or, as some say, in the parish; — that Neil, one of the clans- 
men of Donald, fled with the remnant of his islanders from the 
plain to the hills, whither he was pursued and slain, and a stone, 
set up near the village to mark the spot where he fell, was called 
Neilstone, which gave the name to the surrounding district 

Both these accounts are pure fiction. We find the name of 
Neilstoun given to the district, 103 years before the battle of the 
Largs, and 251 years before the days of Malcolm III. The bat- 
tle of the Largs was fought in 1260; and the battle of Hairlaw 
in 1411 : but, in the cHartuIary of the Abbey of Paisley, we find, 
that, in the year 1160, Robert de Croc of Crocstoun, assigns over 
the patronage of " Neilstoun" to the monks of the Abbey of 
^^ Paisley," on consideration that mass be regularly said there, 

* In the former Statistical Account, the parish of Neilston is made to hold a con- 
spicuous place. It was selected by Sir John Sinclair as one of the three parishes which 
he had translated into French, and transmitted to the French Chamber of Commerce^ 
in order to shew the progress which manufactures had made in some of our land- 
ward parishes. Whether Neilston — from its vast population, its large and numerous 
manufactories, iti copious springs of purest water, its streams, rivulets, and water- 
falls — holds still, amongst the landward parishes of Scotland, the same high rank it 
held in 1792, is now to be seen. 



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308 RENFREWSHIRE. 

« pro salute aninuB stueJ' The orthography of the name, in this 
chartidaryj leads to the conclusion, that Neilston took its origin 
from a person called ^^ Neil," its first inhabitant ; and the termi- 
nation " tun^' — now pronounced town — denoting the dwelling of 
the proprietor, — naturally enough gave to his place the name of 
" NeiVstun," or « Neilstoun— the town of Neill. 

Situation^ Extent^ Sfc. — Neilston lies in Latitude 55** 47' 15*' 
north; and in Longitude 4® 21' 35" west. Its form is that of a 
wedge or dovetail expanded, its narrowest part being to the 
east, and its broadest to the south and south-west Its length, 
by measurement is, 8^ miles, and its breadth 4J fully ; it con- 
tains 36 square miles, or 24,320 imperial acres. There is 
nothing in which those who have written about this parish dif- 
fer more than in its length and breadth. Some make it 9 miles 
long from east to west ; and three miles broad on an average. 
Others make it 7 miles from S. E. to N. W., and nearly half 
as much in breadth, in a cross direction. Some make it to 
contain 13,570 Scotch acres; others only 12,500 English acres. 
One copies the errors of another, and makes it ^^ 7 and 8 miles in 
length; and, across, its averages, about 3 J miles; containing 
19.56 square miles, or 12,500 acres;" — whilst others make it 10| 
in length, and 5^ in breadth. 

All these computations seem to be mere guesses. The last of 
them does not refer to Neilston, as it now is, but as it was in an- 
cient times. In this view, the last measurement, lOJ x 5|, is 
nearly correct Neilston proper, in olden times^ included the 
baronies of Knockmnde and Shutterflat, which, though now dis- 
joined from Neilston, and annexed to Beith and Dunlop parishes, 
in Ayrshire, are, nevertheless, still in Renfrewshire, and pay into 
that county all their public burdens of cess, &c. - Though dis- 
joined from Neilston, their civilia still belong to it, being a dis- 
junction " quoad sacra tantumJ^ From the eastern extremity of 
the parish, at Robert Young's of Parkhouse, to the Bridge of 
Coldstream, or Shutterflat, which separates the old parish from 
that of Beith, the distance, by measurement, is 10^ miles fully ; 
and taking its average breadth from the Long Loch to Cawpla'- 
Dam, it will be fully 5 miles. But the accurate length and 
breadth of Neilston, as it is at present, is that noted above. 

Boundaries. — On the east, Neilston is bounded by Eastwood 
parish ; on the south by Mearns; on the S. W. by Stewarton and 



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NEIL8TON. 309 

Dunlop; od the W. by Beith and Lochwinnoch ; and on the N. 
by the Abbey Parish of Paisley, which runs paraUel to it for 
about eight miles. 

Topographical Appearances. — Properly speaking, there are no 
mountain ranges in this parish, though it has quite a Highland sce- 
nery to the west The surface is exceedingly irregular and uneven. 
On its eastern boundary, the land is flat ; in the south and west 
parts, it 18 hilly, having an elevation from 400 to nearly 900 feet 
above the level of the Clyde, at the Broomielaw. Here and there, 
the ground rises into small hills of considerable height. The 
highest hills are the Pad, and Corkindale^lawj which rise from 
820 to about 900 feet above the sea. These are separated by 
a narrow valley, or ravine, through which the great tunipike 
road from Glasgow and Paisley runs till it enters Ayrshire. The 
Pad range of hills extends for about two and a-half miles ; and 
the Corkindate^lttw range, with those of the Fereneze, stretch 
from east to west, fully four miles. The Pad range gradually 
slope to the valley or ravine, and has a northern exposure, as 
does also that of Corkindale-law, whose declivities have a southern 
exposure of very great beauty. Through this valley, the water of 
Levem flows for miles to the east. To the west, the valley leads 
along the lovely banks of Loch*Libo, which, in our opinion, ex* 
celb in picturesque scenery, Rydal water in Cumberland I 

From the Pad^ the view to the east is as grand as it is extensive. 
But it is from Corkindale-law where a view presents itself unri- 
valled in beauty and extent by any in the west of Scotland, from a 
similar elevation. It commands, in a fine clear day, the half of 
the counties of Scotland. The spot on which you stand is a 
small piece of table-land, not more than forty yards square. 
From this, the hill slopes in all directions. On looking north, 
you have Dumbarton rock; the vale of the Leven; SmoUet's 
monument ; Loch Lomond, and some of its islets, and Benlo- 
mond in the back ground, with the whole range of the Gram- 
pians I Looking east, the city of Glasgow and its suburbs : 
and the whole vale of the Clyde, from Hamilton to Kilpatrick, 
with the hills of Kilpatrick, Campsie, and top of Dunmayock ; 
the western Lomonds of Fife, Bathgate, and Pentland hills, 
and Tinto firom his base to the top. From thence you have the 
tract of the whole run of the Clyde, from its source till it joins the 
Atlantic ocean. On looking south, you have the Lead, Cumnock, 



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310 RENFREWSHIRE. 

and Sanquhar hills, with others in Kirkcudbrightshire ; whilst far 
in the distance you have, on a very clear day and in a humid atmo- 
sphere, the tops of Skiddaw and Saddleback in Cumberland. These 
are distinctly seen in this state of the atmosphere, through the ravine 
which stretches onwards between Tinto and the Cumnock hills. 

Turning to the south-west, a rich and variegated prospect meets 
the eye : The pleasure groundsof Eglintoun ; the extended plain 
of Ayrshire, with its many noblemen's seats, and princely lawns, 
Irvine spire, the Troon and the mouth of Ayr harbour, with the 
lands around it ; Brown Carrick hill, Lochryan, some of the hills 
in Galloway; the mountains of Morn and Newry, in Ireland, and 
the beautiful rock of Ailsa standing like a sugar-loaf, in the midst 
of the ocean, with the whole sweep of the waters from Donagha- 
dee to Irvine harbour. 

In a fine, bright, calm, summer, or autumnal evening, nothing 
can surpass the splendour of the scene ; especially when there is 
added the multitude of fishing-boats plying on its waters and about 
its harbours ; the stately steamers going to and returning from 
Liverpool, Dublin, and Bel&st ; and at times the West India fleets, 
with all canvas set, hastening to their destined ports. These, with 
the romantic island of Arran, and its lofty Goatfield as a skreen to 
it, on the west south-west, form a scene, unparalleled by any with 
which we are acquainted, or have ever beheld in Scotland, En- 
gland, or Ireland. 

Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere here is, at 
all times, very various. In the parish, there are three distinct cli- 
mates, and, therefore, to have an exact account of the weather in 
it, an observatory would be necessary in each of them. 

But though we have no public artificial observatory, with its ther- 
mometers, to mark the various degrees of heat in the parish, we have 
a natural one, which never deceives, viz. the leaf of the poplar tree. 
In the neighbourhood of Barrhead, and all the level district around 
it on the east, which is the first climate, the weather is much 
milder. There, the leaf of the poplar appears ten days before it 
is seen in the second district, which begins at the parting of the 
roads to Neilston and Irvine, a little above Mr Cunningham's re- 
servoir, and stretches on to about a mile to the west of Neilston 
village ; and in the third district, the leaf of the poplar is not 
seen for a fortnight after it is out at Neilston. In all these three 
districts, the change of climate is remarkabla No one ever came 



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NEILSTOK. 311 

to the separation of the two roads aboYe-mentioned, who did not 
feel immediately a sensible difference, let the weather be what it 
may. The consequences are, the farmer, in the first district, has 
his operations finished three weeks earlier in spring than those in the 
third, and the same interval, nearly, takes place in harvest. 

Owing to its geographical position, the rain that falls here, with . 
the high winds, storms, and tempests, which accompany it, is 
greater than in most of the parishes around. The parish stands, 
as it were, on an isthmus, between the Friths of Forth and Clyde. 
From its great elevation, it has the whole sweep of the east winds 
from the Frith of Forth to the Atlantic Ocean ; and which, in 
April and May, frequently traverse it with great violence. But it 
is from the S. W. and W. whence our storms and tempests, and delu- 
ges of rain, generally come. From these quarters, the wind prevails 
nearly three parts of the year. At times, especially in winter, its 
power is tremendous, and strikes with such force as if it would 
overturn by its fury, not only trees and houses, but mountains 
from their base. It seems, on such occasions, to be the land of 
storms. 

The cause of these storms and tempests here is very obvious* 
The parish lies, as already noticed, between the two Friths, or ra- 
ther between the Atlantic and Grerman Oceans. The temperature 
of the German Ocean, owing to its shallowness and narrowness, 
gets sooner cooled and sooner heated than the Atlantic, with its 
great breadth and depth of water. Hence the cold winds, rush- 
ing from Mount Caucasus in spring, along the Baltic, cool the 
German Ocean with great rapidity, and, hurrying to the Atlantic, 
to keep up the equilibrium of the temperature there, give us 
those cold, chilly easteni blasts in April and May, which, with 
their hoar, are so unhealthy. 

The converse of this takes place, so soon as the German Ocean 
and Continent get heated, to a higher temperature, than the At- 
lantic The colder winds of the Atlantic, rushing to the east, 
where the atmosphere has become rarified, create the storms and 
tempests so common in the higher districts of this parish. Rushing 
from the S. S. W., there is not a single obstacle to break their sweep 
from Donaghadee to the Neilston-hills. Hence it happens that 
no extremity of weather continues for more than twelve hours, 
without modification. 

Possessing such a variety of climate, it is natural to suppose that 
the parish must be very unhealthy. That it is not more so than 

aCNFREW. X 



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312 



RENFREWSHIRE. 



the parishes around, the following tables, constructed in 1828, by 
Charles Ritchie, M.D., will demonstrate. Whilst the state of the 
parish remains the same, as then, they may be considered as appli- 
cable to its population, and must be valuable, to the statist and ac- 
tuaries of Life Insurance oflSces. 

It is true that the state of disease will be modified, increased, 
or diminished, by the nature of the seasons; by the different 
kinds of food, clothing and lodging ; by moral, or immoral habits, 
and by the affections, or temperament of mind which are cherished 
or indulged in. Making allowance for all these, the amount of 
sickness and deaths may be pretty accurately ascertained from the 
following tables. 

No. I. 
Abstract of amount of Sickness in Friendly Societies. 



1. A Male Society of 80 
years* standing, 

2. A Male Society 27 
years* standing, 

a A Male Society 26 
years* standing, 

4. A Male Society 20 
years* standing, 

Total of Males, 

5. A Female Society 6 
years* standing, 

6- A Female Society 6 
years* standing, 

Total of Females, 



eA 



3930 
1943 
n41 
1605 

328 
564 



414 
181 
360 
147 

16 



39 



Yearly Average 
Number. 



I 



131 

72 

120. 

80.26 



404. 



9 94. 



148.66 



Hate per cent< 
per annum. 






Average. 



-Si 

.Si 



1*1 



13.80 
6.70 
.84 
7.36 



8013. 



41.69 



64.66 2.66 



11. 
13.66 



No. II. 
Comparative Sickness in different Trades in Neilston Parish. 

Number in Number 
Trades. societies. sick. Proportion. 



Wrights, 


463 


25 


1 in 18.52 


Calico-printers, 


852 


49 


1 in 17.4 


Farmers, 


354 


27 


I in 13.11 


Cotton-spinners, 


754 


59 


1 in 12.7 


I^Abourcrs, 


1629 


170 


lin 9.58 


Smiths, 


132 


15 


I in 8-8 


Bleachers, 


825 


94 


1 in 8.77 


Weavers, 


aS25 


- 377 


I in 8.77 


Tailors, 


264 


42 


lin 6.2 

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NEILSTON. 



313 



No. IIL 

Comparative Numbers of Adults and Children treated in General 

Practice during Two Years. 









1825. 












1826. 








Males. 


Fexnales. 


Chik 


Iren. 
Died 

1 




Ma 
Sick. 


les. 
Died 



Females. 


Children. 1 


Sick 


Died 


Sick. 


Died 


Sick 
9 


Sick. 
12 


Died 

1 


Sick. 
5 


Died 



January, 


13 


2 


28 


February, 


9 





24 





25 


4 




fi 





•3 





10 


1 


March, 


11 


1 


13 





18 


2 




18 


1 


11 





10 


1 


April, 


15 


2 


15 





8 







12 





8 





15 


1 


May, . 


14 


2 


19 





13 







4 





13 





26 


1 


June, 


16 


3 


29 


1 


13 


2 




9 





12 





8 





July, . 


9 


1 


23 


2 


12 







10 





8 





16 





August, . 


17 





16 


2 


24 


2 




10 


1 


20 





20 


1 


September, 


11 





14 


1 


15 


1 




10 


1 


11 





18 





October, . 


12 


1 


10 


1 


14 


3 




15 





10 


1 


15 


1 


November, 


10 





16 





11 


2 




11 


1 


4 


1 


15 


2 


December, 


12 


' 


9 





7 







12 
273 



17 


13 
341 


I 


12 


1 


12 


.338 


26 



No. IV. 
Abstract of Burials in Neilston for Four Years. 





1823. 


1824. 


1825. 


1826. 1 


1 


1 


i 


1 


1 


'3 


i 


1 


.1 




U 




^ 


'*i 


H 


^ 


Pk 


H 


>i 


,« 
Uk 


H 


3 


1 H 


January, 


5 


3 


8 


4 


7 


11 


4 


9 


13 


4 


lo' 14 


February, 


ti 


2 


4 


5 


3 


8 


6 


7 


13 


7 


6 13 


March, . . 


3 


5 


8 


4 


6 


10 


9 


10 


19 


3 


7 


10 


April, . . 


8 


8 


16 


4 


3 


7 


4 


6 


10 


2 


7 


9 


May, . . • 


3 


1 


4 


4 


3 


7 


6 


4 


10 


2 


11 


13 


June, . . . 


.3 


3 


6 


4 


3 


7 


2 


2 


4 


3 


4 


7 


July, . . 


3 





3 


2 


1 


3 


6 


2 


8 


3 


2 


5 


August, . • 


4 


3 


7 


5 


2 


7 


5 


5 


10 


2 


4 


6 


September, . 


5 


6 


11 


3 


4 


7 


7 


4 


11 


1 


7 


8 


October, . . 


6 


8 


13 





5 


5| 4 


a 


10 


2 




3 


November, . 


6 


4 


10 


7 


4 


Hi 9 


1 


10 


2 


6 


8 


December, 


7 
54 


8 
51 


15 
W5 





2 


2 


5 


7 


12 


3 


8 


11 


12 


43 


85 


67 


63 


130 


34 


73 


107 



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314 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Of these there Died. 



From these tables, the following remarks are warranted : In 
1823, the number of funerals amounted, in a population of 7000, 
exclusive of still-born children, to 129; giving a mortality of one 
in 54.26 persons annually. In 1824, it was 110, being one in 
63.64. In 1825, it stood at 130, or one in 53.84; and in 1826, 
it fell to 107, being one death to 65.42. 

In 1825, the number of still-born children was 14, being as one 
in 9.28. In 1826, to 6, or one in 17.83. These included, the 
real bill of mortality of this parish will amount, during these two 
years, so high as one death in every 54.47 persons per annum. 

It appears from the registers, that a most important difference 
obtains in the relative mortality of the upper and lower districts of 
the parish. In the former, it amounted in 1825 to 50, and in 
1826 to 37 deaths, or to one death only in 66.11 persons per an- 
num; while in the latter (the lower district,) the deaths were 74 
in 1825, and 76 in 1826, or as high as one in 48.51 persons per 
annum. 

The facts which account for this mighty difference, are the 
greater density of the population in the lower than in the upper 
district ; the greater poverty of the inhabitants, a greater propor- 
tion of them being Irish, and almost exclusively occupied at public 
works, in trade, or as common labourers. These will perhaps suffi- 
ciently account for this striking contrast in the rate of mortality. 



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NEILSTON. 315 

without obliging us to seek for its causes in those differences of 
climate which are peculiar to each district in this extensive parish. 

" The inequality between the males and females is no less strik- 
ing. In the former, the deaths during four years were 197 ; in 
the latter, 230, exclusive of children still-born. In the three years 
previous to 1826, the number of female deaths, according to the 
lists, was 157, or six less to the corresponding number of the other 
sex ; while in that year, in reality, they amounted to 73, or 39 
more than the males. Of these, one-third took place below 10 
years of age, and one-half below 30. This difference arises per- 
haps from registration being neglected. 

^^ The proportion of deaths under 10 years of age in 1825 and 
1826 in the parish, was, exclusive of 20 still-boni, as 104 to 257, 
or 1 in 2.47, or about 40 per cent of the whole deaths. From all 
these facts, it is obvious that the probability of human life here is 
not great, seeing that two-thirds of the whole population are cut 
off below thirty years of age. The average of all the persons dying 
here in 1825 and 1826, exclusive of still-born children, was as high 
as 34.79. 

<^ Important differences also appear in the different classes of 
which the population is composed ; — the average ages of the persons 
belonging to the agricultural population dying in 1825 and 1826 
being 60.05 ; the Scotch manufacturing population being 33.67, 
whilst the Irish population was so low as 30.19." Yet in the upper 
wai*ds, many attain to a great age. * 

Hydrography. — This parish, being inland, has no friths inter- 
secting it; but it abounds with streams and springs of the purest 
water. Some of these bubble up from the soil, others from the 
solid rock. They are almost all perennial, though, in the end of 
very dry summers, there is, in a few of them, a less abundant sup- 
ply. At Neilston there are three wells on the glebe, one at the 
Kirkhill, and one at the Butter Well, which have withstood the 
most prolonged droughts, and are of the finest water. 

The largest spring in the parish is that one " Aboon the Brae^^ 
which issues from the solid rock, discharging no less than 42 im- 
perial gallons every minute, 2520 in the hour, or 60,480 a-day, 
or 22,146,200 imperial gallons per annum. It is the chief spring 
which supplies the Waterside Bleachfield, belonging to Andrew 

* For a tabular view of the prevalent distempers connected with the district, sec 
the Glasgow Medical Journal, Vol. i. 



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316 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Chalmers, Esq. who himself carries on the work, and who has a 
long lease of it. 

Streams and rivulets abound in the parish ; but the chief of 
them are the Levern, Kirkton-burn, the Brock, and Cawpla Rill. 

The lochs are three, — the Long- Loch, Loch-Libo, and Caw- 
pla- Loch. The extent of the first is about a mile in length and 
half a mile in breadth, with an average depth of from 16 to 18 feet. 
Loch-Libo, in figure nearly an oval, contains about 1 6 acres in length 
and 14 in breadth. Its depth is unknown ; but it is very consider- 
able in the centre. It is the source of Lugton-water, which runs 
west, and, after beautifying the country and extensive pleasure- 
grounds of Eglinton, it falls into the Garnock, a little way below 
Kilwinning. The Cawpla-Loch is tolerably large in winter, but 
small in summer. Neither about it nor the Long-Loch is there 
any scenery ; but Loch-Libo presents a scene of unparalleled beau- 
ty. Its lofty hills, on both sides, are wooded with fine old trees to 
the water's edge. Its oblong or oval figure pleases the eye, while 
its smooth and glassy surface, disturbed only by the heron, wild 
and teal-duck, swimming and fishing upon it, give it animation. 
Standing at the turn of the road, as you ascend northward, above 
the Shillford toll-bar, and looking west, when the sun, in a fine 
summer evening, is pouring his rays upon it, its effect is enchanting. 

Besides these lochs, there are other large artificial collections 
of water called reservoirs. The Hairlaw reservoir covers 72 acres 
of flow-moss, and is 16 feet deep. Comore reservoir covers 16 
acres, and is about 24 feet in depth. The reservoir to the north 
of the Pad covers 14 acres, and is 16 feet deep. To these we add 
the Kirkton and Walton dams, each of which contains a consi- 
derable body of water. 

The source or feeder of Hairlaw and Comore is the Long- Loch ; 
the source of the Pad is a small stream to the west of it. The Kirkton- 
dam rises to the south of the Pad, and is fed by the streamlets that 
descend from that hill, and the moors to the south-west The 
Walton-dam has its origin from a small rill that takes its rise be- 
tween the Snypes farm and Upper Walton. 

The chief stream, however, is the Levern, which has its source 
in the Long-Loch, and which divides the parish for nearly four 
miles into two parts. Its direction is first to the north, then to 
the north-east, and, finally, from Crofthead to the east, till it enters 
the Abbey parish, west of the Hurlet. It passes Neilston and Barr- 
head on the north, the Hurlet on the south, and falls into the White 



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NEILSTON. 317 

Cart near Cruikston Castle, so famed from Mary Queen of Scot- 
land having fled from it after the battle of Langside. The banks 
of this stream, from Waterside Field to the Dovecotehall, is thick 
set with population and public works. On its banks, are three large 
bleachfields, four printfields, a corn and chipping mill, and six 
large cotton-mills, giving employment to a vast number of men, 
women, and children, — all active and industrious. 

On the stream flowing from the Kirkton dam, there are four 
bleachfields, two of them amongst the largest in the county, — one 
printfieldfor Turkey red dyeing and calico printing — containing 112 
tables, and employing, in all, 500 hands ; two coal-pits, one mill 
for net working, which is now enlarging to double its former size, 
one corn mill, and one iron-foundery. On the banks of the Wal- 
ton stream, called the Brock, after leaving Walton dam, there is one 
bleachfield, and two extensive printfields for calicoes of all kinds, 
garments, silk shawls, &c &c Both these streams join the Levem. 
The Kirkton, at Cross Arthurlie, after a run north-east of about 
two miles, the Brock, after a nm north-east, falls into the Levem, 
about six or seven miles from its source. The velocity of all 
the three streams till they reach the level ground is very consider- 
able. Being shallow, their temperature is at times as high as from 
40^ to 45°. 

Owing to the height of their sources from the plane, there are 
on them some fine cascades. Above Midgehole, on the Levern, 
there are two splendid ones. There is another above South Arthur- 
lie field, and a third at Brownside. But the loveliest of them all are 
those at the Killock-Glen. There, in perfect miniature, are seen 
the three falls on the Clyde, Bonnyton, Corra, and Stonebyres. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The minerals are the same here in 
general as in the parishes around. Lime and ironstone are found 
in great abundance, both in the east and west extremities of the 
parish. Ores of no kind save ironstone are found here. 

In truth, beyond the usual appearances of trap-rocks, this parish 
affords nothing new or interesting to the geologist. But, if it con- 
tains nothing peculiar, it has long been known as a rich field to 
the collectors of mineralogical specimens. 

The most numerous and interesting of these belong to the zeo^ 
lite family. They are to be seen in various parts of the parish, 
but are more especially found in the greatest plenty and variety near 
Hartfield. 

Prehnite is the most common of all these minerals to be met 



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318 RENFREWSHIRE. 

with near Hartfield. It is there found beautifully crystallized, baT- 
ing abroad, rectangular, four-sided prism, rather flatly feoilled in the 
extremities. 

The first specimen, examined by Werner, was brought from the 
Cape of Good Hope, by Colonel Prehn; hence the name of 
Prehnite, by which it is distinguished. It was then not suppos- 
ed to be found in Great Britain, but some time afterwards it was 
found near Dumbarton by Mr Grotche;* and since, abundance of 
it has been picked up in the Hartfield moss* That the specimen 
picked up by Grotche at Dumbarton was carried down, with others, 
by the Cawpla stream into the Clyde, and by the Clyde, rolled down 
to Dumbarton, is extremely probable, as prehnite is not found 
in any other parish in the West of Scotland, known to us. It is 
curious, indeed, that its formation should be in the middle of moss. 
We have found large specimens of it so imbedded, — and not very 
many years ago, sent a most splendid specimen of it, picked up by us, 
to the late amiable and talented Professor of Natural History in 
the University of Glasgow, Mr Lockhart Muirhead. The cele- 
brated Brochant, it is said, could not rest satisfied till he visited 
the place of its formation, Hartfield Moss, and took away with him 
some of the finest specimens he could find, f 

Analdme^ or Hexahedral zeolite, is the most common of all those 
minerals found at the same spot. That it has also been carried 
down by the waters from Hartfield, though picked up at Dumbar- 
ton, is probable. In general, this crystal presents only one modifi- 
cation, viz. the twenty-four-sided crystal with trapezoidal fiices of 
greater or less regularity. The primitive form of its crystal is a 
cube ; sometimes it is (bund crystallized in cubes, in which each 
solid angle is acuminated by three faces. It is often found some- 
what transparent. One beautiAil crystal of this primitive form was 
found by Lord Greenock in a quarry near CaldwelL This crys- 
tal, though at times seen transparent, is generally opaque. A few 
specimens occur of a red flesh-colour, but these are very rare. 

Chabasite^ or Rhombohedral zeolite, is found in the same situa- 
tion, but it also is comparatively of rare occurrence. The primi- 
tive rhombohedral crystal is by much the most common. The 
most frequent modification consists in the truncation of one, two, 
or three angles ; the truncation itself being often very deep. It is 
usually found white^ and somewhat transparent, with a streak of 
green running through it, which renders it very pretty. 

Red SHlbUey or Heulandite, is of frequent occurrence. 

* Vide Ann. de Chim. i. 213. f Brochant» 1205. 

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NEILSTON. 319 

TTumuonitej or Orthotomous zeolite, occurs in great abundance 
at the same fertile spot It presents the usual radiated structure, 
with occasionally beautiful terminations. 

Laumanite^ or Diatomous zeolite, one of the least common of 
the zeolite family, is found at the same place. 

Ores imbedded in the trap rocks which abound here, are 
scarcely ever found. Assuredly no veins of manganese, lead, or 
jcopper, are known to us. When, examining some stone dikes 
built of olden time, with the late lamented and talented 'Walter 
Moody, Esq. of Glasgow, we found stones in which were imbed- 
ded rich specimens of copper ore. In none of the rocks we have 
examined have animals, shells, or plants been found imbedded or 
buried. The only thing found, deeply imbedded in some of ou 
coal mines and mosses, are trunks of large trees, in the transition 
state to coaL 

Soils. — These are as diver£(t6ed as the climate. There are 
three marked and distinct soils in the parish. That on the eastern 
division (which is flat land,) is of a dry loamy nature, mixed occa- 
sionally with gravel, and resting here and there upon freestone, but 
generally upon a substratum of stiff KU or clay. It is fit for all 
kinds of crops. The middle district, which is hilly, has for its sub- 
soil chiefly rotten rock, or porphyry. Hence its surface is com- 
monly dry, and free of wet standing on it. It is fitter, however, 
for pasture than cropping; and hence the dairy is the first and 
greatest care of the farmers there, as by its produce they chief- 
ly pay their rents. The soil is of the same nature as that of 
the Meams, and produces the finest butter. Its pasturage is ex- 
cellent The third district is composed of bent moor and deep 
black moss ; much of which is capable of great improvement, under 
a proper system of draining and planting. The sides of the hills 
afford good grazing, and produce as fine cattle for the shambles as 
any in the country, whilst the table-lands on the hill tops with the 
moors are excellent for rearing young cattle. A very few sheep 
are kept in the parish. Many swine are reared, but goats are un- 
known. 

The improvements made on the Hartfield estate show what 
can be done on our mosses, moors, and hill-sides. From a few 
hundred pounds of rent, when Robert Fulton, Esq. of Maxwel- 
ton, the late highly respected proprietor of Hartfield, purchased it 
from the Milliken family, its rent is now raised, by his improvements 
and other means, to about L. 2000 yearly. * 

* Five hundred acres of the moss and moor of Hartfield, formerly rented at L. 30» 

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320 RENFREWSHIRE. 

By dividing these mosses and moors into fields of fifty acres 
broad, and 60 or 70 long, — thro\?ing around each field a strong, 
broad belt of planting ; by draining it till it is perfectly dry, and then 
laying lipon it from 1 10 to 130 bolls of lime per acre, to lie two or 
three years on the sward, before the ground is broken up, and 
when it is broken up, (which should be done in November at the 
latest, that so the frosts and thaws of winter may operate upon 
it ;) — by such or similar means, much of it may, by seed-time, be 
brought into mould. By this management, crops of corn, barley, 
rye, potatoes, carrots, cabbages, turnips and cole-seed, may be 
plentifully obtained ; and, under judicious and well conducted im- 
provement, a return had, not of 10, but of 80 or 40 per cent, per 
annum. More than this has been frequently realized from the out- 
lay ; whilst from such improvements, many advantages are derived, 
such as enlarging the rent-roll ; beautifying and ornamenting the 
estates, and increasing their value ; excitingindustry among their ten- 
antry; multiplying the means of human food, and thereby produ- 
cing cheaper markets. If he was deemed s patriot who made two 
stalks of grass to grow, where only one grew before, he certainly 
has a better title to the name, who makes abundant crops for hu- 
man food to rise from the barren heath. We bid Colonel Mure 
and Mr Speirs look to what has been done by the late and pre- 
sent worthy and respectable proprietors of Hartfield and Fereneze. 
They have done much ; but they, too, have still much to do, ere 
their moors be reclaimed and made productive. 

Mines. — Saving those of coal, free and whinstone, there are no 
other mines in this parish. Freestone is wrought at Upla-moor, 
— it is a fine pillar, and of great depth. Whinstone is wrought 
at Braumside to a considerable extent More than 6000 yards are 
taken out of it yearly. 

Zoology, — In this department,' there is nothing that is rare. We 
have all the domestic animals, and of the best kinds. The un- 
domesticated quadrupeds are, the fox, the polecat, the weasel, and 
the hedgehog. The otter and badger make their appearance but 
rarely. Grouse abounds in the higher district of the parish. The 
blackcock is to be met with, as also pheasants ; and in the middle 
and lower districts, partridges are often abundant. Snipes, wild 
teal ducks, plovers, and herons frequent all our mosses, and 

are now, in consequence of' these improTements, says Mr Wilson, 1812, 'Met at 
L. 495.** Mr Fulton persevered, *' and out of 675 acres of very deep and soft mrss, 
450 acres have been reclaimed.** Hence the rise of the rental, as above. 



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NEILSTON. 321 

moors, and lochs. The common migratory birds make their an- 
nual appearance at their proper seasons. The cuckoo and swal- 
low, the curlew, lapwing,, and stonechat in spring; and in the 
end of autumn and beginning of winter, the woodcock and field- 
fare. The Birds are, the sparrow, sparrow hawk ; the thrush and 
blackbird ; the lark, grey and green linnet ; the bullfinch and yel- 
low-hammer j the golden-crested wren; the blue titmouse, the 
chaffinch, and starling ; which last, though rare for many years, has 
again appeared in considerable numbers. 

The water-crow and stonechat are disappearing ; and the long- 
eared, brown, and barn owl is found only inhabiting some lone- 
ly tower. The raven, crow, jackdaw, and magpie abound. The 
last is the most ferocious and destructive of all the other birds ; and, 
though rewards have been ofiered for every one of them that is shot, 
they cannot be rooted out. 

This parish is not famous for the breed of any species of cattle. 
The only thing in which it is remarkable is its breed of milch- 
cows. Every thing has been attempted for their improvement 
The Ayrshire cow was crossed for a time with the Aldemey and 
Guernsey breed. This produced more butter, but less milk, and 
the breed was given up. Now the chief attention of farmers here, 
in the middle district, is to improve, as much as possible, the Ayr- 
shire cows in all their varieties.* 

The fishes in our lochs are perch, pike, and trout. Trout is found 
in abundance in the Long-loch : pike and perch, large, and very 
fine and abundant, in Hairlaw reservoir and Loch-Libo ; and trout 
is found also in Cawpla-Loch. In the streams, trout of a par- 
ticular kind are found, equal in all respects to the char in the 
lakes of Cumberland. Great abundance of these, and of the 
common species of trout, with uncommonly large and fine eels, 
are found in the small reservoirs attached to the mill-lades of cot- 
ton-mills, and other large bleaching manufactories. When these 
reservoirs are drained for cleaning, trout are taken in great num- 
bers; some of them from 12 to 16 inches long, and thick in pro- 
portion. For a time after the printfields were set down the fish 

; • The writer of this article sold one of the mixed Alderney, or Guernsey breed, to 
the late William Finlay, Esq. Senior, of Trees, in this parish. She produced, per 
week, for the three flush months, eleven pounds of butter ! but comparatively little 
milk in proportion. At the same time, the present minister of Dunlop had a large 
6ne cow, of the pure Ayrshire breed, which gave, during the three flush months, 
twenty-one Scotch pints of milk in the day, as taken from the cow. These facts are 
well ascertained, and mark the ))cculiar difTerence between the cross and the pure 
Ayrshire breed. 



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322 RENFREWSHIRE. 

deserted the Levern. The^rst emptying of their dye-stuffs and 
other debru into the stream poisoned them ; they were found dead 
next morning on its margin in great numbers. They have, how- 
ever, long ago returned, though not feeding in that part of the 
Levern wherein the debrig is thrown. The salmon left it entirely, 
and have never, so far as known, made their appearance since the 
water was thus polluted, though before they came in numbers to 
spawn at the season. 

All the insects injurious to vegetation in general, and to fruit- 
trees, and to currant and gooseberry bushes, in particular, are as 
abundant here as in the parishes around. Every method has been 
employed for their destruction, but all in vain. Last year, the grub 
and the wire-worm produced dreadful ravages. 

Botany. — All the plants used for culinary purposes are grown with 
us, and need not here be specified. Those for medicinal purposes 
are, foxglove ( Digitalis purpurea^) valerian (Valeriarui offieijialiSf) 
hemlock {Conium maculatum^ ) tormentil ( TormenfiUa erecta. ) The 
first is found growing on a bare and rocky soil, small and stunted in 
its form and appearance, but most powerful in its application as ame- 
dicine. The second is commonly the inhabitant of the low and marshy 
grounds about Barrhead. The third delights, like the foxglove, 
in a bare and rocky situation, or loves the shelter of an old dry 
dike, where it rises into great vigour ; and the fourth, like the 
moorfowl, loves the heather, and is found flourishing amongst the 
heath in great plenty and luxuriance. 

The plantations are few and scanty. The timber which grows to 
the greatest size is the beech, the plane, the ash, and the spruce. 
Some of these latter kind are found about Caldwell and Glander- 
ton, both of considerable age and size. It is much to be regret- 
ted that plantations at once so profitable and so ornamental, are 
so few in this parish. 

n. — Civil History. 

In this department the parish is rich. From one of its ancient 
proprietors the present reigning family has sprung. In the twelfth 
century, Stewart of Darnly married the sole heiressof Robert de Croc, 
who at that time held the Lordship of Neilston, Darnly, and Croc- 
ston. These he made over to his daughter, from whom sprang the 
Earls and Dukes of Lennox, and of whom was Darnly, the husband 
of Mary, father of James VI. of Scotland, and first of England. 

For long, it was a parish of gentlemen^ noted for their prowess 
and amenity of manners. Crawford, in his " History of Renfrew- 



4 

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NEIL8TON. 323 

shire," published in 1710, gives a very full account of the families 
in or belonging to it in olden times. Passing from the house 
of Stewart, the Lordship of Neilston, he says, came by marriage 
into that of Cunningham of Craigends. It soon went from them, 
and was, in the course of years, divided, as now, amongst a num- 
ber of proprietors. 

A cadet of the noble family of Damly held Arthurlie ; Glan- 
derston was possessed by the ancient and highly respectable family 
of the Mures of Caldwell ; Neilston-side was held by a descend- 
ant of Sir William Wallace's family of Elderslie ; the barony of 
Side belonged to a cadet of the honourable house of Skelmurlie ; 
Cowdon-hall was long possessed by the distinguished family of the 
SpreuUs, and by Sir William Cochrane, afterwards first Earlof Dun- 
donald* Not one of all these have now a house in the parish, nor an 
acre of land in it, saving Lord Glasgow and Colonel Mure. All has 
changed hands. What astriking lesson ! ^* Sic transit gloria mundL" 
One remarkable trait of character in the inhabitants of Neilston 
from its earliest history is their ardent love of civil and religious 
liberty. In the Reformation they took an active interest. The 
persecution of the Presbyterians by the infamous and profligate 
Charles IL, roused Colonel Wallace, a descendant of Neilston- 
Side, to march with his followers to Pentland. William Mure, 
then of Caldwell, felt his spirit stirred within him at Charles's 
cruelty, and, placing himself as captain of a company of horsemen, 
who met at Shutterflat, resolved to march forward to join the army 
of the Covenanters at Pentland. The traitorous conduct of Max- 
well ofBlackston broke up this meeting; each returned to his home, 
and though not near Pentland, all who attended it were either 
driven into exile, or had their estates forfeited. 

The large estates of Caldwell were given to General Dalziel. 
Sentence was passed in absence, and this good and worthy per- 
son died in exile, leaving his pious lady and four orphans, destitute 
of all visible means of subsistence.* 

Rising in 1819. — With this affair of Shutterflat, we connect 

* Of the sufferings of this eminently devout lady and her family after the exile 
and death of her husband,— of their retiring to Glasgow, and supporting themselves by 
their own industry,-— of their being transported to Blackness Castle, and kept in close 
confinement for years, under d^JhUe accusation of keeping conventicles, — of the harsh 
treatment they met with there,-— of the Council refusing liberty to Lady Caldwell 
to go to Mr Sandilands of Hilderston to see her dying daughter, — of her offer to take 
a guard with her, yea, to maintain the whole garrison as a guard if they pleased, 
while she was doing her last sad duty to her child ; of all these facts, we leave Wod- 
row to tell, only remarking on the tyranny and cruelty which could refuse so hu- 
mane and so reasonable a request to a mother. 



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324 RENFREWSHIRE. 

the modern history of an event, the results of which should afford 
a lesson of useful and awful import to those who fear not God, nor 
honour the King, but meddle with them who are given to change. 

The 1st day of April 1819 was on a Sunday. Associations for 
reform had, on that and the preceding years, been frequent in 
England, and Ireland, and Scotland. A regular system was form- 
ed, and an active correspondence carried on amongst them all. 
The wildest theories about liberty and equality were broached and 
promulgated, with ardour and unwearied diligence. The different 
Associations had their times and places of meeting regularly fixed. 
In these, the Spencean doctrines found willing, and resolute advo- 
cates. This Spencean plan was to divide the whole lands in the 
nation among the people ; perfect equality in the division being the 
rule of distribution, so that no one should have more than another. 
In the meantime, rumours of a general rising of the people through- 
out the empire to obtain this end, were circulated with great indus- 
try by the radical reformers. Whether the director of the move- 
ment intended only a hoax, according to the custom of foolery on 
this day of the year, is best known to himself; but this is certain, 
that during the night, or early on the Sunday morning, a flaming 
proclamation, announcing the rising, was placarded upon all the 
church doors in town and country, stating that the insurrection was 
to begin that day in ^London, and in the chief towns of England 
and Ireland, and calling upon the reformers here to be ready to 
join them, threatening instant death to all who opposed them. 

On that Sunday morning, the writer of this could not understand 
what attraction was about the church gate. He saw the chiefs of 
reform in motion, hastening to the gate, and looking mighty big 
when turning away from it. Understanding that the cause of this 
excitement was the proclamation referred to, the minister preach- 
ed a sermon from the following text : ^^ Put them in mind to be 
subject to principalities and powers, to obey magistrates, to be 
ready to every good work, to speak evil of no man, to be no 
brawlers, but gentle, showing all meekness unto all men." This 
produced the happiest consequences m the parish. Except by the 
musical band, and a few wrong-headed men like themselves, the 
operatives resolved to attend their work as usual. To their ho- 
nour and credit be it told, they did so ; and it was very remark- 
able, that whilst the whole works of the same kind in Lanarkshire, 
Dumbartonshire, Renfrewshire, and Ayrshire stood still that week, 
not one of all the twenty-two large public works stood idle for a 

3 



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NEILSTON. 325 

moment in Neilston parish. The events of that week will long be 
remembered by many. The whole of the west of Scotland was in 
agitation and alarm, save Neilston, which was comparatively quiet, 
peaceable, and orderly. 

This effect we mention with exultation, as an instance of the in- 
fluence of the pulpit, and the necessity of having not only an ac- 
tive and Gospel ministry, but also an Established Church suffi- 
ciently large to admit a considerable number of the parishioners 
for hearing divine service. 

Eminent Men. — The eminent men connected with this parish 
in ancient times have already been noticed. Those in recent times 
are scanty ; yet a few have arisen who have done honour to them- 
selves and their native place. The whole of the talented family 
of the Mures of Caldwell have their family crypt or vault here. 
The late Baron Mure, who was eminent in his day, was a Baron 
of Exchequer, Member of Parliament for Renfrewshire, a pro- 
found lawyer, and an eloquent man, long the Melville for Scot- 
land, was born and buried here. His grandson, the present Co- 
lonel Mure of Caldwell, promises to be his superior in literary 
fame. His *^ Disertation on the Calendar and Zodiac of Ancient 
Egypt," exhibits profound research and extensive reading, and 
places him high as an astronomer, and eminent as a scholar. His 
worth, talents, and literary acquirements must soon raise him high 
in his country's estimation, and give him a name and a place in 
society to which his birth and accomplishments deservedly entitle 
him. 

The late George Monteath, M. D., son of Dr Monteath, for- 
merly of TSTeilston, now of Houston, is another individual of whom, 
the parish has reason to be proud. His attainments in science 
were considerable ; but it was in his profession where his great 
powers were seen and appreciated. His knowledg^e of the structure 
of the eye and its diseases, was minute and extensive, and his many 
operations upon it eminently successful. His quick perception and 
discrimination of disease was the admiration of his brethren in the 
profession, and gained for him a well-earned reputation. He died 
early in life, in the midst of extensive practice, honoured, respect- 
ed, and regretted by all who knew him. 

We might say all this of his ffreat rival, Dr William Young, 
who was born in the same village, and about the same time, and 
started with him in the same professional race. This very distin- 
guished individual is now enjoying in Glasgow the most extensive 



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326 RENFREWSHIRE. 

patronage, admired for his skill and ability by his brethreiv as an 
anatomist and pathologist, and highly esteemed by all. * 

Not a few ingenious men, skilled in the combination of the 
mechanical powers, have appeared in this parish. Some of these 
had heads to contrive, but wanted hands to execute. The late 
James Dunlop, Esq. of Linwood, united both in himself. He was 
allowed by all who knew him to be a man of great ingenuity, 
skill and contrivance, and of admirable taste in mechanism, 
and success crowned his well merited reputation. His son, Wil- 
liam, promised fair to equal if not excel his late father; but ill 
health, for a time only we trust, has stopt his career. Should 
health again return, we doubt not to have from him some of those 
splendid and useful combinations which have immortalized a Ro- 
berts and an Arkwright. 

But one of the greatest of those ingenious artisans and mecha- 
nics to which this parish has given birth, was the late Mr John 
Robertson, foreman to James Orr, Esq. of Crofthead. A self- 
acting mule had long been a desideratum in cotton-spinning for 
more than half a century. What neither Crompton of Bolton ; 
nor Kelly of Glasgow ; nor Buchanan of Catrine ; nor Eaton of 
Derby ; nor M. de Jonge, an ingenious Frenchman ; nor Roberts 
of Manchester ; nor even the talented Mr Smith of Deanston 
works, could do with all their skill, — Mr Robertson, single-handed 
and alone, accomplished. The process of backing oJff\ which is 
one of the most difficult to accomplish in <' the self-acting mule,'' 
Mr Robertson contrived and finished. Mr Smith of Deanston 
had, in 1833, renewed his mechanical labours, resolved, if possible, 
to contrive and finish a self-actor. He had failed in 1792, with 
Mr Buchanan of Catrine, to perfect the self-acting mule which 
they had then contrived; and though, in 1826, he succeeded to 
contrive an efifectiye machine for spinning low numbers, yet he found 
it could not be applied to mules of various descriptions in the trade, 
as they then were and still are in general use. He therefore applied 
his vigorous powers to contrive one, and was making rapid progress 
when he came to hear of Mr Robertson's contrivance respecting 

* Since the above was written, this eminent physician has fallen a Tictim to his 
profession. As physician in the Royal Infirmary of Glasgow, he had been in the 
Fever Ward for about two hours, examining about seventy fever patients, when he 
caught concentrated tppfiu*^ and in a few days thereafter was no more. Thus fell 
this skilful practitioner in his 47th year, lamented by a city which had long known 
and appreciated his worth. His funeral w&s one of the latgest almost ever seen in 
Glasgow. To his worth and abilities all the Glasgow papers of the day bore ample 
testimony. 



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NBIL8TON. 327 

the great fitcility of his machine in the backing-off motion. On 
seeing the simplicity and efficacy of the contrivance, and the faci- 
lity of Robertson's " self-actor,'* Mr Smith was struck with ad- 
miration, — what all his ingenuity had not contrived was there. A 
proposal for combining the powers of the two machines was made, 
and a copartnery entered into by Messrs Smith and Orr for that pur- 
pose. Hence, by the ingenuity of Mr Smith combining the two, he 
has made a perfect self-acting mule, which will, in that trade, carry 
his name with that of Robertson's down to posterity. Great advan- 
tages will be derived from this machine, by the trade. By it, the 
fiiU-grown operative is dispensed with, and only children required 
for piecing up the threads, who are now paid one-half more than 

^ formerly. Another advantage is obtained, by the mule producing 
about one-fifth more yarn, whilst the saving upon the wages will 
be about two-thirds. A third advantage it gives is, that it brings 
the workers more under the control of the master. The vexation 
given to the masters by the union of the workers was great. By these 
unions, under the plea of protecting their trade, they annoyed and 
distressed their employers time after time, with insolent and un- 
warranted interferences and restrictions. It was to get rid of this 
annoyance, by a ^^ self-actor,'' that the masters were led to make so 
many attempts to dispense with their services altogether. This 
they have now accomplished, — the service of children only is re- 
quired. This is generally the result of all combinations ; they ul- 
timately injure tiiemselves. Another important result of this ^^ self- 
acior" is, that by diminishmg the wages two^irds^ it will enable 
the spinners of Great Britain to compete successfully in the foreign 
market with the cheap labour of the continent These advantages 
must c(Hnmend this machine to the trade, which, from its simpli- 
city, is not liable to breakage, nor to much tear and wear, nor to 
much expense in the repair. 

Land~otDners. — The chief latid^wners are, Alexander Spiers, 

. Esq. of Elderslie ; Colonel Mure, of Caldwell; The Right Honour- 
able the Earl of Glasgow ; Sir Robert Pollock of that ilk ; Colonel 
Fulton ; John Graham, Esq. of Craigallian and Fereneze ; James 
Dunlop, Esq. of Arthurlie; William Craig, Esq. of Kirkton; 
Peter Bawers, Esq. of Craigingal; and Captain Anderson of 
Broadlie. 
Tablb of Property of the whole Heritors of Neilston, 
great and small, with their valued rents respectively. 

GUndflratoB and NeUslon side ; Caldwell part of Neilfitoa aide ; Neii- 
stoii tide ; four different parts of Comore ; Glanderston dike ; part 
RENFREW. Y 

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32S RENFREWSHIRE. 

^r the 1«. 17 knd ai Aitburlie ; ditto, ditto, ditto— Aleiander Speui, 

Esq. of Elderalie, .... 

Barter CaldweU ; Wetter Cddwdl ; Coirdoo Commoii— CoL Mure 

ofCaldweU, .... 

Hartfield— CoL Fulton, .... 

AucfainlMek, Dubi^ Park aod BoghaD, Lei^h Lyon Croa — Earl clT 

Glamor, .... 

Maxwell's Lyoo Cross— Sir Robert Pollock, 
Fereneie— MeMrs Grakama, - - 

Pollock's Arthurlie ; part of Airstau's do. ; part of L.17 land of do. — 

James Dunlop, Esq. of Arthurlie^ ... 

Part of the L.17 land of do.— William Craig, Rsq. of Kirktoo, 
Do. do.— Mr Wylie of Carsewells, 
Do. do. — Mr Stewart of Carsewelb, 
Do. do.— Peter Sawers, Esq. of Netberkirk, &c &c 
Do. do. — Formerly Andrew Spreuls, Esq.— John Gemmel, Eaq. 
Do. do — Captain Andessoh of Broadlie, 
Anderson's part of Caldwell — Heirs of Wood, 
Part of the L. 17 land of Arthurlie — Blr Young of Snypes, 
Do. do.— John Cuthbertson, Esq. of Carsewells, 
High Lyon Cross — Heirs of Mr Cuthbertson, 
Kirk]and*s part of Arthurlie— John Craig of Foreside, 
Do. do — John Pollock, Esq. of Greenhill, 
Part of Pollock's Arthurlie in possession of William Lowndes, Esq. 

Total of the raluation of Neilston Parish, as it now is, * L. 4828 6 8 
Add the Annexations from it to the Parishes of Beith and Dunlop. 

In Beith Parish ; Sbutterflatts — Mr Stevenaon, - 59 6 

Do.— Feuars, - - - - 103 7 8 

In Dunlop parish, also Knockmade Barony— Col. Mture of Caldwell, G62 16 8 



L.I729 19 


4 


1096 13 


6 


633 6 

f 


8 


53113 


4 


120 6 


8 


440 





190 13 


4 


109 





106 5 





47 6 


8 


44 


a 


34 





• 30 





30 





25 





23 15 





20 





13 6 


8 


6 13 


4 


69 13 


4 



Amount of Taluation in Neilston before annexation, - L. 5486 3 4 

Parochial Registers, — Our oldest register is one of births and 
baptisms. It commences in 1689, and is continued on to 1735. It 
is in very bad condition, and two years are wholly awanting. The se- 
cond register of births and baptisms, begins 15th May 1737, and ends 
June 6, 1764. The third register of births and baptisms b^ns 8th 
June 1784, and ends 14th March 1813. The fourth register of 
births and baptisms commences 21st March 1813^ and is now be- 
ing filled up. The first register of proclamation of banns begins 
29th January 1737, and ends 10th December 1791. The second be- 
gins 5th January 1792, and ends 21st September 1833. The third 
begins 27th September 1 833^ and is being filled up. There is no re* 
gister of deaths, on which any kind of reliance can be placed. There 
is great backwardness to registration here of any kind. R^u- 
larity never will be attained, till a Parliamentary enactment enforce 
it under penalties. 

Antiquities. — In this parish, there are none. Tradition has 
transmitted an account of other two religious houses, before the Re* 
formation, besides the parochial kirk. One of these had been 
placed at the *^ chappell," — and another, at the sequestered spot 
called *^Boofi the Brae,'* near Waterside bleachfield. The springs 



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NEILSTON. 329. 

at both places are exceedingly fine. They were the holy wells of 
the Papists in former times, and, if purity of water could confer 
holiness, that name they deserved. The spring, ^' Boon the 
Brae," issues from the solid rock, and is one of the finest and most 
copious in the parish. It is perennial. Of these chappells no 
traces remain. Even the walls and foundations of them cannot be 
discovered. 

Tradition speaks also of a curiously carved Danish stone ; of 
tumuli on the Fereneze Braes; of battles lost and won ; of human 
bones dug up, enclosed in square freestone urns; of petrified 
shells, and impressions of trees and animals, especially shell fishes ; 
but all these have now vanished. Large trees, imbedded deep in 
the mosses or mines, are occasionally found, passing into the coal 
formation ; but than this no other kind of fossil is dug up. 
That these have been found in the parish, in ancient times, is 
most likely ; but if ever they existed, they are now among the 
things that wera 

Modem Buildings. — There is abundance of building going 
on in the parish ; but there has been none of late of any conse* 
quence, saving Crofthead House, the property of James Orr, 
Esq. and Ck)mpany ; and James Dunlop's, Esq. of Arthurlie ; both 
of which are handsome and elegant buildings. 

There are a few other good houses in the parish ; such as Mr 
Lowndes's, the Chappell, and Trees. None of the castles of the' 
old and ancient Nobility remain. Lord Glasgow, Sir Robert 
Pollock of that ilk. Col. Mure, Col. Fulton, and Mr Speirs are 
non-residents ; and, with the exception of a few of the smaller he- 
ritors, the parish is inhabited chiefly by the proprietors or owners 
of large manufactories, their foremen and operatives. 

Additions have been made to difierent mills and public works 
in the parish, some of which have been increased to nearly double 
their original size. A nfew printfield, for all kinds of calicoes, was 
erected in 1835 at South Arthurlie at great expense. At Cross 
Arthurlie field, another large print-shop was built ; and additions 
have been made to others. But the most splendid addition is 
that of the Levem mill in 1834, — which consists of five storeys, 10 
feet high, a sunk flat, and a garret, and is 113 feet long, and 46 
feet wide, and which, joined to the old mill, makes an immense pile 
of building. The materials used in these buildings are generally 
jreestone^ though sometimes whinstone, both of which are at hand 
in great abundance. 



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^U RENFREWSHIRE. 

III. — Population. 

Tablb L 

The following is the state of the population at different times. 

Yean. Souls. 

1695 Families 263, 1180 

1756 ... 1274 

Mftlt*^ FemiJes* 

1791 1187 n43 2330 

1801 1702 2004 3796 

1811 2205 8744 4949 

1821 2641 9908 6549 

1881 3669 4477 8046 . 

1836 9187 

Table 11. — Particulars in census of 1881. 

Inhabited houses, . . . 712 

By hoir many families occupied, 1518 

Houses now' building, . ^ . . 5 

unoccupied, . « IS 

Families chiefly employed in agriculture, .166 

manufactures and handicrafts, 1319 

All other fiunilies not included in these classes, . 31 

Persons, Including children of all ages, males^ 3669; females, 4477 ; total of 

persons, ...... 8046 

Males employed in Agriculture. 

Number of males 20 years old, and not older, . 1679 

Occupiers of land employing labourers, ... 77 

not employing labourers, . . 67 

Labourers employed in agriculture, . .180 

Males employed m manu&ctures, or in making machinery, . . 624 

Males employed in manufactures, trade, and commerce, &c» 

Males employed in retail trade, or in handicraft, as masters or as workmen, 41 1 
Number of wholesale merchanu, bankers, professional men, and educated per- 
sons, ...... 36 

Number of labourars employed in labour not agricultural, . S04 
All other males i&) years old, (excepting servants) including retired tradesmen, 

superannuated labourers, anid mal^ diseas^ tnbody or in mind, . 71 

The causes of the unparalleled increase of |K>puIation are, — 
the command of water power for driving machinery ; Ae abun- 
dance of the purest spring water; the nearness to coals ; and to 
the great storehouses of manufactures in Glasgow and Paisley. 

In this parish there are no towns. The population in the vil- 
lages can only be given. 

FamHkB. IndiMuaU. 

Neilston village, . . 392 . 1879 

Dovecothall, Barrhead, and Newton Ralston, 564 . 2738 

West Arthu^e, 
Grahamston, 



79 414 

120 595 



140 . 748 

118 . 627 

51 215 



Gate^ide, and Chappell, 
Grofthead, 
Upla moor, 

No. of population residing in the country of all oli 
as fiumers, cottars, handiciiafts, &c 272 1392 

Such were the numbers at the end of the year ^1835 and be- 
ginning of 1836, when the census was carefully taken by the elders 



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NEILSTON. 331 

of the parish, assisted by Roman Catholics and sectarians. Thei> 
the whole population was, as stated, 9187, making an increase in 
five years of 1141 souls* 

The mwenge •f births for the last seven years, is 158^ 

of deaths, I55i) 

of marriages, 77f 

number of persons under 15 years, 2807 . 
of individuals, or families of independent 

fortune not known ; many appearing to have independent *" 
fortunes, who, in reality have leas than nothing, thou^ mak. 
ing a great show. 

The number of the proprietors of land above the yearly value of L. 50 are, 1%*' 

families in 1831, . . 1518 

Average number of children in each family, , . . 5 

Numt^r of inhabited houses in 1837, . . . 085 

of uninhabited houses and others now building, . 27 

The number of insane 1 1 , fiituous 5, blind 8» deaf and dumb 9 ; total 98 

The strength, size, and complexion of the ariffinal inhabitants 
have long been remarkable ; and some of their descendants, as the 
Spreulls, Craigs, Andersons, Cochrans, Gilmours, Muirs, Stew*^ 
arts, &C. still possess these qualities in a great degree. They are, 
many of them, tall, stout, able-bodied men ; some with fair, and 
others with dark complexions, but intelligent features. '< It was 
asserted," says the writer of the former Statistical Account, " by 
a late military gentleman of this neighbourhood, who was well 
informed, accurate in his observations, and who had opportunity 
during many years of his life, whilst in his Majesty's service, 
to see the subjects of most of the different powers, and some 
of the finest troops in Europe, that John Stewart of Moyne was, 
for stature, strength, and exact proportion, and good looks, the 
completest figun» of a man he had ever seen^^' 

In the hilly part of the country, the offspring of the original 
inhabitants are still robust, strong, healthy, and intelligent, often 
living to a great age. In a kiric-session of thirteen members, there 
are seven whose present ages are 495 1 of these, two are 81 each, 
two firom 76 to 78. Two persons not in the session died at the 
advanced age of 104 and 105. The latter was fether to Mr James 
Fulton, one of the elders, who is now 81 years old 

The habits of the people in general are sober and industrious i 
one class, that of the sober, intellectual, and moral, is exceedingly 
cleanly ; the immoral and irreligious just the reverse. The clothing 
of the men is warm and comfortable, and every way bespeaking 
good conduct ; whilst the style and manner of dress of the virtuous 
and well-behaved females, is not only in good taste, but, owing to 
the purity of the muslins they wear, peculiarly clean and neat 

Considering the wages which the people receive, they can, ac- 



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332 RENFREWSHIRE. 

cording to their condition in society, enjoy, in a reasonable degree, 
all the ordinary comforts of life, with many of its luxuries. A great 
number of the operatives have from 16s. to L. 1, and from L. 1 to 
L 1, 10s. ; and some from L. 1, 10s. to L. 1, 15s. and L. 2 per 
week. Yet true it is, though strange, that those who have only 
from 16s. to L. 1 are more independent, and infinitely more com- 
fortable in their clothing, furniture, and supply of the table, than 
those who have from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2, aye L.2, 10s. a-week. The 
one class is generally frugal, sober, and contented with their situa- 
tion and circumstances. The other is dissipated, prodigal, literally 
wretched and poor ; ill fed and ill clad, discontented with their 
condition, and with every thing and every body around them. 
Those of the one class give themselves to the duties of religion, 
the other to politics. The latter would reform every thing, yet re- 
fuse to reform themselves. Amongst a people given to politics^ 
the moral and religious character is lost. The one absorbs the 
other, and the magnitude of eternity is lost in the littleness of time. 
The squabbles of factions are preferred to the peace of God, and 
the party bowlings of this world's policy to the songs of Z\on. 

In a parish abounding with cotton-mills, printfields, and bleach- 
fields, where men, women, and children are cooped up together from 
five in the morning till seven at night ; where indecent language is 
often heard, and evil example often set before them ; where no op- 
portunity is afforded the children to acquire solid knowledge, and 
where time is wanting for the adults to improve their minds by 
reading and reflection, how is it possible that such a population 
can in general be intellectual, moral, and religious ? If we are to 
enjoy a healthy state of morals, the present and future generations 
must be trained up in the fear oft he Lord, and obedience to his 
commandments. If these are neglected, every generation will 
grow worse and worse, till society become wholly corrupted and 
debased, and we sink, as a moral and religious people, from among 
the nations of the earth. Indeed a radical change of system must 
take place throughout all the branches of the cotton trade, where, 
at present, children are employed, if ever we are to become an 
intellectual, moral, and religious people. Government must inter- 
fere, — our old religious system of education must return, — children 
must be taught, and none permitted to enter into any of these 
works below the age of twelve or fourteen years, and until they 
have leftmed to read their Bibk and say their catechism. 



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Agriculture* — 



NEILSTON. 333 

IV. — Industry. 



1 he Dumber of acres, standard imperial measure, in the parisb, which are either cul- 
tivated, or occasionally in tillage, - - 16602 2 9 

The number of acres which have never been cultivated, and which re* 

main constantly waste, or in pcisture, - - 4240 3 30 

The number of acres that might, with profitable application of capital, 
be added to the cultivated land of the parish, whether that land were 
afterwards to be kept in oooasioDal tillage, or in permanent pasture^ 
mosses, &c. .... 3473 

Number of acres under wood, natural or planted, &c. - 865 

The kinds of trees planted are in general indigenous, saving the 
larch and spruce, and a few others. The management of them is 
very much approved. Periodical thinning and pruning, &c. is 
general. 

Bent of Land. — The average rent of all arable lands in the pa- 
rish is L. 1, 10s.; the average rent of grazing, is at the rate of 
JL 4, 10s. per ox or cow grazed, and at the rate of 9s. per ewe or 
full-grown sheep, pastured for a year. 

Rate of Wages. — The rate of labour, winter and summer, for dif- 
ferent kinds of farm-labourers and country artisans — is, — for farm- 
labourers, 10s. per week, in winter, — in summer 12s. ; for country 
artisans, masons in winter, 2s. 6d., — in summer 3s. 6d. ; carpenters 
from 2s. 6d. to ds. Od. per day; tailors, from 9s. to 10s. with their 
meat per day ; shoemakers, 12s. per week ; band-weavers from 8s. 
to lOs. per week ; smiths from L. 1, Is. to L. 1, )0s. 

The price of the raw material^ March 1887. — Meal per peck. 
Is. 4d. and L. 2, 6s. per qQarter ; oats per boll, L. 1, 2s. ; barley 
per boll, L. 1, 9s. ; wheat, imperial quarter, L. 1, Ids. ; potatoes, 
L. 1 a boll, Renfrewshire measure ; turnips, L. 2 per ton ; rye-grass, 
L. 5 per 100 stones; meadow hay, L.4 per 100 stones; manure 
from 4s. to 5s. a ton ; lime, 16s» per chalder. 

Live-stock. — The Highland or black-faced sheep and the Lei- 
cester are the only ones bred here. In the whole parish, there are 
only about 100 of the one, and 50 of the other. No attention is 
given to their improvement, as the farmer depends nothing upon 
them for his rent 

Husbandry. — The same kind of husbandry is here pursued as 
in Lanarkshire and Ayrshire. The chief thing attended to is the 
dairy ; and for the improvement of it, ingenuity, skill, and exer- 
tions, are perseveringly directed. There is little land in the pa^ 
rish which is not susceptible of great improvement Accordingly 
a Society, in 1826, was instituted, called the ^^ Neilstan and neigh- 
baurhood Agricultural Society^** of which Captain Anderson of 



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334 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Broadley is treasurer, and who is settiog a noble example on his 
own ikrm of what skill and capital can do with industry, and per- 
severance. Formerly, it was the garden of the sluggard ; since he 
began his improvements, it has become a fertile field, delightful 
to look on. 

By draining the waste land, where it is wet and spongy, as also 
the moss and moors, and throwing broad belts of planting, as no- 
ticed already, around them at the distance of fifty acres, and plant- 
ing clumps upon the knolls and sides of the hills, making the sur- 
face of the mosses and moors level, and then throwing on them^ 
after being thoroughly drained, from eight to nine chalders of 
lime, and letting them rest in this state for two or three years^ 
and at the end of the third, in October or November, turning 
them up with the spade, so that the frosts and snows of winter 
may form a soil on them, and then in spring sowing your seeds, — 
a crop of oats, or potatoes, or turnip, &c. would amply, 4n two years» 
repay the outlay, with profit Where it is dry bent moor, this 
is not necessary. In this case, irrigation, clumps, and belts of 
planting, with six or seven chalders, would, after the heather has 
been burnt, and the surface cleaned, and roots of heath rooted out^ 
be all that was necessary to secure an ample return for expenditure* 
The general term of leases here is nineteen years. 
The farm-buildings and enclosures here are generally good. 
Coal Mines. — Ck>al is found at various depths, and of very 
different quality and value. In one ''of them there was found, 
Ist, a coal of 7 inches, 7 fathoms from the surface ; dd, coal 
of 12 inches, 10 fiithoms fiirther down ; 9d, coal of 6 inches, 
19 fiuhoms £surther down ; 4th, coal of from d feet S inches, to 
above 5 feet at 21 fathoms, which is the main coal. There is 
also great variety in the quality of the coal. In a coal of 2^ feet 
thick, the following varieties were found : 8 inches of it gas coal,' 
8 inches smithy coal ; and 8 inches of fine coal ; the remaining 6 
inches were had, inde^. 

The dip^ are also vwous. The level dip is first due E« ; then 
turns to the & EL ; then takes another turn, and dips to the N. 
The dip to the S. W. gives the best coal, where it lies generally 
in troughs ; but the splint or hard coal is that which is most 
sought after by the public 

The thickness of the coal in the one pit is 4^ Ctot, and in the 
other about from 3 feet 8 inches to d feet. No veins, or dikes, or 



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NeiLSTON. 335 

irmibles have yet been met with in the working of the coal ; never- 
theless, alt of them to the east seem to be a troubled field, where 
the metals are found in all directions. 

The quantity of coals put out per week by the three pits may be 
above 1 200 tons, at 7s, 6d. per ton. The wages of the colliers are all 
equalized. The worst as well as the best pitmen receive 5s. per 
day, or L. 1, 10s. a week, or L. 78 Sterling per annum I 

Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in 
the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : — 

Produce of grain of all kinds, oultivatod for the food of man or tha 

domestic animals is . . . L. 58>21 1 7 4 

Potatoes, turnips, eabUages, beet, and other plants cultivated in the 

fields for food, . . . 12,757 

Hay, whether meadow or cultivated, . . 9640 

Land in pasture, rated at L. 4 per eow, or full-grown ox, grazed for 

the season, and 9s. per ewe or full grown sheep pastured for the jear, 95 

Cows 1088, average milking seven pints a day for eight months, at 

dd. per pint, . ^ . . 21,288 I 

Coals per year, and quarries, &c. . . 24,960 

Miseellaneous produce not enumerated under any of the foregoing 

412 10 



Total yearly value of raw produce raised from lands, sheep and cows, L. 1 27,358 1 8 4 

Mcamfaetures. — These form the chief distinction of this parish. 
About the year 1767 or 1768) the idea was entertained of making 
the parish a manu&cturing one. The Rev. Mr Henry Miller, a 
man of great spirit and enterprise, having succeeded to the fine 
fortune of his late brother, the celebrated bookseller in the Strand, 
London, projected an inhle factory, and established it, with some 
of the influential heritors, as copartners. 

Shortly after that, about 1773} the printing of calicoes was begun 
at Fereneze, on the banks of the Levern. It was at that time 
deemed a great work. Its extent may be easily conceived from the 
excise duty paid, and its yearly expenditure. The first was about 
L. 3000 Sterling, and the second about L. 2000 yearly. It con-* 
tinued long the only printfield in the parish. Bleachfields became 
the rage, and these in their turn, — ^many of them, at least, — have 
become printfields, so that now the bleachfields and printfields, as 
seen above, are equal in number. 

BUachfUlds. — The first bleachfield was formed about 1778^ by 
the late Peter Adair, Esq. of Cross Arthurlie. He had been bleacher 
at some of the Lismore fields in Ireland, his native country. De* 
sirous of change of place, he came to Scotland. In sailing up the 
Clyde, nothing struck him so much as not to see a single bleachfield 
on its banks. To set down one, he thought, would be a good specu- 



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336 RENFREWSHIRE. 

lation ; and, looking out for a suitable spot, he pitched upon that 
one at Cross Arthurlie, which is still in the fieunily. The site 
proved at once his discernment, taste, and sound judgnaent He 
was soon followed by an host of imitators. 

Cotton^spinning. — Cotton-spinning began here in 1780. The 
first mill was set down at DovecothaJl^ on the banks of the Leyem^ 
on the site of the old corn-mill there. It is a small building, (still 
standing,) containing three storeys, 8 feet each in length; is 54 
long within, by 24 broad. This mill was the second cotton-mill 
in Scotland, and was built by Stewart, Dunlop, and Co. 

The success of this mill induced the building of others. Gate^ 
side mill followed in J 786; Broadlie in 1790; Arthurlie in the 
same year; Crofthead in 1792: and Mr Graham's in 1801. 

These mills were originally oFconsiderable size ; but since their 
first erection, some of them have been built anew, and others have 
had large additions made to them. By these additions, most of 
them are twice as large as before. Take an instance ; the old Le- 
vern mill, the second in Scotland, was built, as said, in 1780, and, 
according to Mr Wilson, was 78 feet long and 28 broad. To this 
there was added another mill in 1800, of 123 feet long by 32^ 
broad, having five storeys in it, and to this there was, in 1834, 
added another addition, of 113 feet long by 40 broad, — the whole 
forming now an immense pile of building. 

But an idea of their extent, and the value of the produce put 
out by them, will be best seen from the following statement, fur- 
nished partly by James Orr, Esq. of Crofthead, William Craig, 
Esq. of Kirkton, and others, spinners on the water. 

Number of mule spindles in all Uiese six mills, • llfiS& 

throstle spindles, • . • 1344 

looms, .... 230 

Annual ?alue of produce. 

Mule yams, 1,563,656 lbs. No. 46, at Is. 5d. per lb. . L. 112, 168 1 1 

Throstle do. 69,888 24, Is. 2id. 4,222 8 

1,653,444 L. 116,390 19 

Produce or2301oomi per year. 1,447,160 yards at 3|d. is, . ^fiW 17 6 

Total average produce annually of mules and looms, • L. 139,002 16 6 

The number of hands, men, women, and children, employed in 
the several branches of cotton-spinning, bleaching, and calico- 
printing, with their respective ages, will be clearly seen from the 
following table : — 



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NEILSTON. 337 

Table I. 

Shewing the men, women, and children, employed at the cotton 

mills, power-looms, printfields, and bleachBelds. 

Under 12 yrs. Under 18 yrs. Above 20 yrs. 

Total of «ll 

Males. Fein. Males. Fern. Males. Fern. ages. 

Cotton- spinners and — — — — — — '^ 

power loom weavers, d7 39 220 445 296 622 1659 

Printers, &c. 290 139 195 122 511 86 1343 

Bleachers, . . 17 29 49 232 126 259 712 



Amount of each age, 344 207 464 799 933 967 3714 

Table II. 
Abstract of the whole capital of the different works, with their 
. rents, amount of wages paid per annum. 

CapitaL Rental Wages. 

Of Printfields, je 28,650^ J^ 1961 ^30,569 

Bleachers, . . 39,000 1925 14,118 9 6 

Spinners and power-looms, 96,570 3500 51,575 12 

Amount, . ;€ 164,220 £7386 J^ 96,263 1 6 
Since these tables were framed, the only two returnswhich had 
been delayed, have been handed in. The one is from a small, the 
other a large printfield. From their being single, a pretty correct 
idea may be formed of the immense capital sunk, the wages paid, 
and the amount of rent and expenditure. In the one, the capital 
sunk is not given, but the average wages weekly are : — to pattern 
drawers, L. 1, 15s.; to block-cutters, L. 1, 4s.; to printers, L. 1, 
Is. ; to tirers, 2s. 3d. ; to labourers, 12s. ; to women, 6s. 

The amount of* wages paid monthly is about L. 160, sa L. 1920 per annum. 
The rent paid yearly is .... 150 

Paid per annum, . L.2070 

The amount of the other kinds of expenditure must be propor- 
tionably large, yet this is amongst one of the smallest printfields 
in the parish. The other, which is one of the largest, will give 
an idea of the expenditure of those like itself. 

After describing the kinds of work that is done there, the re- 
port states that '^ 500 hands'' are employed in it. 

That the capital employed in erecting it was . L. 12,000 

That the yearly expenditure in carrying it on is about . 20,000 
And its rent about ..... 500 



Sum total, . L. 32,500 
To the sunk capital of the bleachfields is to be added that of one whose return 
had not been made when the table was drawn up. 

Sunk capita], from L. 4000 to L. 6000, ayerage^ L. 4500 
Rent, . 250 

Wages, about .... 2660 10 



L. 7410 10 



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338 RENFREWSHIRE. 

In the returns from one of these works, it is stated, that ^* the 
management of them has been found a much more diCBcult task 
for two or three years past than it wont to be ; and that a spirit 
of insubordination and dissatisfaction seems to be spreading rapid- 
ly amongst the working classes." The multitude of comhinatwns 
formed, and the baneful effects of them, upon themselves, their &- 
milies, and society, strongly corroborate this statement 

The number of working days in the cotton-mills are six, — and the 
number of hours in the week, sixty-nine. Those of the printers, 
in summer, are from six in the morning till six in the evening, 
while those of the bleachers are from eleven to twelve hours per 
day, or seventy-two hours per week. In all the works, the chil- 
dren work the same hours as the men. That the wages afford a 
feir remuneration and support to those engaged in these works must 
appear evident from the high wages that are paid them, and the 
vast sums they spend in drinking. However much it may be dis-^ 
guised or denied, these works have a powerful tendency to affect 
both health and morals. Among them, you rarely find an indivi- 
dual of the strength, size, and fresh complexion, which distinguish- 
ed the ancient inhabitants. They are comparatively small, sickly* 
complexioned, and are old men, apparently, at forty-five years. 
Few see threescore and ten. 

Of their morals^ in general, we cannot say much that is &- 
vourable. Nevertheless, we gladly bear witness that there are, in 
these works, many exceptions, of persons who are as intellectual, 
moral, and religious, as any of the same class in the community. 
Shortening the hours of the children's labour, and giving them, 
before they go into these works, a thorough Christian education 
and Christian example, with a strict, but kind surveillance of 
the masters and overseers, appear to us to be the only means of 
correcting and improving the system. 

The above details of the state of our manu&ctures and agricul- 
ture, with their produce and wealth, will give some general idea 
of its resources. But a better idea of these will be attained by 
collecting them together. 

Taking the land as sunk stock at twenty years' purchase, 24,320 
imperial acres, - - « - 3= L. 4R6^400 

House and leaseholders* and fiirmers* property, at twelve years* pur* 
chase, make, sunk capital of L.1 64^ in public works included, i24d,750 I 6 

Wages paid by the public works per annum, - 90,263 I 6 

Sunk capital in fiuming-stock of horses and cow8,queys and oolta, mares 
and their foals, sheep and lambs, ... 19,189 

Produce of pasture for cattle of all kinds and sheep, « 1421 15 

4 



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L.6040 8 
58,211 7 
12,757 
21,283 1 
24,960 
412 
16,475 5 



4 




• 

9 


6529 





60,000 
28»650 
39,000 







' 33,4as 12 

3500 

20300 

6462 10 









NEILSTON. 339 

Sunk stock for lime nnd manure^ ... 

Produce ftom all kinds of grain raised in 1836, 

from potatoes, turnips, and bay of all kinds, 
of the dairy, 1088 cows» ... 

of mines and quarries, &c &c. - ' - 

Miaoellaneous produce not enumerated, 
Rent-roll of the parish or landed income per annum. 
Rental of 815 double or divided houses, average rent, L. 4 for a room 

and a kitchen = 1630 houses, - 

Sunk capital on the public works, viz. on the six cotton mills, which 

originally co6t about L. 1 12»000, but now taken at 
Sunk oapiml on printfields, ... 

on bleachfields, - •> - 

Amount -of wages paid masons, wrights, bhicksmiths, shoemakers, 

weaTors, tailors* saddlers, and daily labourers in the parish. 
Sunk capita] on mines, - - - . - 

Tons output per week, 1000, at 8b. per ton. 
Wages per annum to the colliers, &c. - - 

Such 18 the wealth of thk parish, as nearly as can be stated 
from the retunis made by the masters of public works, by the 
master artisans of the different trades, and by the active and /^r- 
Monal survey of an intelligent and skilfiil farmer, with respect to the 
produce of the land and dairy, and amount of stocL 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

There are no towns in the parish; but the villages of Neilston 
and Barrhead may be considered as approadiing to that character. 
Though there is now a population of 9187 in the parish, there is 
neither a magistrate, nor police, nor jail in it The whole is 
kept in order by active Justices of the Peace, with a constabulary 
at their command. There is a small-debt court held in Neilston 
and Barrhead, alternately, once every month, by the Justices. On 
these occasions, they have their legal assessor and clerL Neilston 
is not a market-town. The nearest market-town is Paisley, but 
there is no occasion to go thither for any thing almost that is need- 
ed. Every article and convenience of life is to be had in the parish. 

Means of CommunicaliotL — In consequence of the new turnpike 
roads that run through the parish, and three daily coaches, com- 
munication, internally and externally, is enjoyed to the fullest extent, 
— to Paisley and Glasgow and Edinburgh on the east, and to Kil- 
majrnock, Ayr, Irvine, and Saltcoats or Ardrossan on the west. 
One of the roads from Glasgow to Irvine runs through the whole 
length of the parish, as does that from Paisley, through Neilston 
village, to Stewarton, Kilmaurs, Kilmarnock, and Ayr. The 
-length of these two turnpike roads in the parish is fully nine miles. 

The road that leads to Irvine from Glasgow by the Hurlet, 
Barrhead, north of Neilston and Uplay Moor, is a most splendid 
one. Formerly, there was no road from Paisley to Kilmarnock biit 



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340 RBNPRBW8H1RE. 

the old mountainous one by the south of the village, which cost 
little ; but this new one cost the trustees, in taking it up the Le- 
vem to Loch-Libo, about Lb 18^000. This road is almost a com- 
plete level, and passes through a very pleasant country. The 
bridges are in number 22, and are all kept in excellent repair by 
the diligent and faithful surveyor of them, Mr Thomas Anderson, 
post-master of Neilston. 

Though the cess-money amounts to L. 500 a-year, yet the debt 
on the parish roads is Lb ISO. This arises from the excellent state 
in which they are kept , So late as the year 1770, there was scarce- 
ly a road in this parish. Every kind of raw material, such as grain 
of all sorts, lime, coal, or the produce of the dairy, had to be car- 
ried on horses' backs. In taking the produce of farms to Glas- 
gow, two days were occupied, one in going and the other in re* 
tuming. Except in the drought of summer, or the hard frosts of 
winter, the people in the moorland districts got neither to kirk 
nor market; for the parish roads were impassable, and then there 
were no turnpikes. Indeed, till about the year 1790, there were 
only three turnpike roads in all this county ; and these, by being 
carried over hilly and rough courses, were very tedious and unptea* 
sant, and ofiten unsafe to travel on. All this, however, has happily 
been done away with; and Renfrewshire can now boast of roads 
and foot-paths equal to any in the kingdom. 

As yet, there are neither canals nor railways in the parish ; but 
if the present mania for railways go on, we shall probably have ooe 
from Ayr, Troon, Kilmarnock, and Irvine, running through the 
whole length of the parish. Nature has pointed it out, and come it 
must some day, instead of the proposed circuitous route by Dairy, 
Lochwinnoch and Paisley. From Irvine to Glasgow, it is almost as 
straight as the crow flies, and without a hill ; and from the Troon 
to Irvine, it is a dead level Nothing can be more direct, if it be 
wished to unite Glasgow with the west coast. Before travel- 
lers from Ayr, Troon, Kilmarnock, or Irvine could be at Loch- 
winnoch by the proposed railway, they would be in Glasgow. . 

To facilitate communication, there are two post-*ofiices, one in 
Neilston, and the other at Barrhead, yielding annually to the re* 
venue about Lb 160, independently of the twopenny-post letters. 
"When the post-office was 6rst established in Neilston, its arrivals 
and departures were only thrice a-week, on the Tuesdays, Thurs- 
days, and Saturdays. Now it is an every-day post here, as well as 
in Barrhead. 



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NEILSTON. 34 i 

Considering the population, the revenue L. 160, may appear 
small ; but when it is observed, that all the twenty-three masters 
of public works lift, every lawful day, their letters at the Glasgow 
and Paisley post-offices, it will appear a great sum, as coming al- 
most wholly from operatives and servants. But what &rtber proves 
the growing greatness and wealth of the parish is, that last year, a 
branch of the Glasgow Union Bank was established in Neilston. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The eccl^iastical state of the parish of 
Neilston is altogether peculiar; and unUke that of any oliier land- 
ward parish in Scotland. Though having only one church it has 
two congregations ; one of the congregations has free sittings, and 
so might the other, if they chose. But some of them, fond of giv- 
ing away their money, or seeking favour with the heritors, or from 
some other cause best known to themselves, pay seat rent, though 
now, comparatively, a very trifle. 

The situation of the parish church is perfectly convenient for the 
greater part of the population, though the distance of its extremi- 
ties from the church is considerable. The western extremity is bj^ 
miles, and the eastern 3. But the western is thinly inhabited, in 
comparison with the eastern, which abounds with villages and a 
dense population. 

The church by the former Statistical Report of 1791, is said to 
have been built in 1762. But this, like many things in that report, 
is inaccurate.* Instead of being built then, it must have only been 
repaired. The window on the north wall, which is a specimen of 
the finest Gothic architecture, must, in the opinion of an eminent 
architect, be 400 years old at least. It was repaired, and had an 
addition made to it in 1797-8, and got a thorough repair in 1827. 
Its present state is deemed good by many ; but its walls, being 
without band, and its roof heavy, render it unsafe when the storm 
rages, or when the church is crowded, as it often is. 

In olden times, some important bene&ctions were made to the 
poor, and the names of the benefactors put on boards, which hung 
on the walls on the right and left side of the pulpit. But these 
were removed when the church was repaired in 1797-89 and have 
never been restored. Nor is there any need ; the whole of these 
benefactions having long ago been taken in totOy and applied to the 
poor, and to the enlai^ement of the church in 1798. 

* As an instance of the inaccuracy of this Report, it may be observed, that the 
church is there stated to contain lOOO, whereat^ after an addition to it of 391 » or 
thereby, it only holds 830. 



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312 IIEN:PR£W8UIR£. 

The number of peraoos to whom the church affords accommo^ 
dation is 890. By filling the passages and stairs, and cramming 
it choke*fuIl, it may hold about 940 persons of ordinary size. This 
is the whole accommodation for a population of 9187 souls, the 
great proportion of which is warmly attached to the Establishment. 

As to the mode in which the sittings are held, some explanation 
is necessary, In one sense they are all free, in another, none of them 
are free. The heritors hold aU the seats as theirs, and claim a right 
to admit or keep out of them all and sundry, just as they please I 

The parishioners, on the other hand, maintain that they have no 
right to the seats; that, legally, heritors have only room for them- 
selves and their families ; that the church is not built solely for 
their use, but for the use of, at least, two*thirds of the examinable 
persons above twelve years of age in the parish ; that when a new 
church is to be built, they must build it of the proper dimension, 
furnish a minister to it, pay his stipend, and the officersof the church ; 
provide a precentor, Bible and Psalm Book for the minister, com-, 
munion elements and cups, and salvers, and tablecloths, and a laver 
for baptism ; in short, that every thing is to be provided by the 
heritors for the celebration of divine ordinances in the church, y^ve 
ofaU expense to the parishumere ; not out of the private funds of 
heritors, but out of the church's patrimony in their hands, appoint- 
ed by law to be appropriated to that purpose. 

By what right, then, or by what law, it is asked, have heritors a 
claim to charge seat rents in landward parishes? If, by law, they 
may be compelled to build a church free of expense to the parish- 
ioners, that all may enjoy the benefit of divine worship, where is 
their right to charge seat rents ? Is not tlie doing of it illegal ami 
vaguMtf 

These views of the question led the parishioners of Neilston ulti- 
mately to oppose such a demand. From 1798» seat rents were 
demanded. In that year, a system of setting them up by public 
auction in the church commenced. As it proceeded, heart-burn- 
ings and animosities were the results. The demand being great, 
and the supply small, some of the seats rose to L. I, 1 Js. 6d. per 
eighteen inches, so that the average rent, for at least twenty years, 
was 12s. 4d. a sitter ! 

This produced murmuring and complaints. But what could 
they do? They could not save themselves. They h'ad no other 
choice, but either to submit to this illegality, or to leave the 
church, and, with their families, to be deprived of divine ordi* 



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NEILSTON. 343 

nances in the parish. At last, they laid their heads together 
in 1826, a year of bad trade, when most of them had nothing to 
live upon, and no money to pay for seat rentSj^-and resolved, that 
none of them would take one another's seats ; and that next Sabbath, 
the day after the public roup, they would go to their seats as usual. 
Hearing of this determination of the seat-holders, the heritors pro- 
cured an interdict from Sheriff Dunlop, ^* against all and sundry 
from entering the seats of the church without the heritors' autho- 
rity," — which could only be obtained by paying seat-rent 

On this, the church was deserted, and the minister, unwilling to 
preach to bare walls and empty benches, went to the tent in the 
church-yard, and there, in the open air, summer and winter, for 
eight years, preached unto his people. Litigation, oppressive 
and keen, in the church courts, conunenced against him. But he 
never ceased to defend himself and his claim for free sitting, till 
he obtained a triumph by the subjoined judgment of the General 
Assembly in 1830, drawn up by that eminent lawyer, John Hope, 
Esq. Advocate, then Solicitor- General.* 

In the face of this declaration, which is suflSciently plain and 
explicit, the heritors of Neilston continued the interdict, and let the 
seats as usual by public roup, to whomsoever would take them. 

By the Act of Assembly 1828, the minister was ordered back 
to the church to give sermon. This he did. In the forenoon he 
preached to the heritors, their families, and tenants, and in the af- 

* " Parties being fully beard, were removed. After reasoning, the General As- 
sembly, without a vote, pronounced the following deliTerance : — The General As- 
sembly having had this petition under eonsideration, feel bound and called upon, as 
the guardians of the spiritual interests and ecclesiastical rights and privileges of the 
people of Scotland, solemnly and firmly to assert the right of parishioners respecting 
church accommodation, to the full extent to which they are entitled to the same, un- 
der the established constitution of the Church of Scotland. The General Assembly 
do assert and maintain, as one of the undoubted. rights and privileges of the church, 
that accommodation in parish churches cannot be made the subjeet of profit or in- 
come of any sort by the heritors, to whatever purpose they may be applied : and the 
General Assembly do distinctly assert, in vindication of the pririleges of the people, 
that in parish churches, regularly built bv heritors in country parishes, in implement 
of those legiil obligations imposed on the possession and enjoyment of their pro- 
perty, the surplus ar^ allotted to heritors, after accommodating themselves, their 
tenants, and others residing on their esutes who have a right to accommodation in 
the same, is destined for the accommodation of other parishioners, and ought to be 
so appropriated, subject to the &ir allotment and distribution to such pari&hioners as i 
may be preferred by the heritors ; and the General Assembly do solemnly protest 
against any ohum or pretension of right on the part of heritors to M such surplus 
area, or any part of the area of the church, in such cases, or to draw any income from 
the same, to whatever objects the same may be applied ; and do assert and maintain, 
that such pretenaioo is contrary to the principles of our e cclesias t ical constitution, 
and inconsistent with the righto and privileges of the people of Scotland, as originally 
intended and secured for their instruction.*' 

RKNFRBW. Z 



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344 RENFREWSHIRE. 

ternoon to the operatives^ and all others who were iDterdicted, and 
would not pay rent. 

In the Court of Session, the people's claim for an ample and ex- 
tended enlargement of the church, sufficient for two-thirds of the pa- 
rishioners, was refiised, and the minister cast, with costs. Avail- 
ing himself of the support of the General Assembly, and recom- 
mendation, in 1881, by their Procurator, to try the case in the 
House of Lords, the question was carried thither, and lost as 
to the enlargement of the church. But, in affirming the judg- 
ment of the Court of Session, the Chancellor threw out, inciden- 
tally, some strong condemnatory expressions about letting seats 
m landward parishes for rent, and especially the indecency and il- 
legality of having the auction in the church. On this, and on 
the deliverance of the General Assembly, the minister and his in- 
terdicted flock returned to the church, — took quiet possession of 
its seats in the afternoon, and have continued ever since to do so, 
without paying, or being called upon to pay, a penny of rent 

Such are the steps, the minister and parishioners of Neilston 
took to get quit of such an enormous, grievous, and illegal impost : 
and every landward parish should imitate their example. 

From 1826 to April 1833^ they were in the civil courts at im- 
mense expense. The church and the nation were alive to their 
plea. Multitudes of parishes were in the same state of destitution 
as to accommodation with that of Neilston. Had we succeeded, 
they were all ready to claim additions. At losing our cause, not 
merely disappointment, but despondency, was felt and expressed. 
The General Assembly, at its first meeting, took up the cause. 
The minister "received the thanks of the Assembly for his zeal, 
and labours, and great exertions in the cause. The Assembly 
ordered all his expenses in carrying on the suit before the Lord 
Chancellor, to be paid; and Dr Chalmers, fired with a noble 
patriotism and Christian zeal, took up, and is now carrying on 
" church extension" with a spirit and success worthy of him, 
and of the people of Scotland, who have answered his call, and 
are generously contributing for the erection of new churches. 

The only difference betwixt Dr Chalmers' plan and Dr Flem- 
ing's lies in this. As to church accommodation, or church exten- 
sion, their views are nearly the same. But not so, in the other 
parts. Dr Fleming's plan included and would have secured en- 
dowments, and parochial schools for the new parishes. In this» 
his object was not to call upon any one to put his hand in his 



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NEILSTON. 345 

pocket for a penny. He pointed out as ^jwad^ the huhopi rents^ 
the surplus teinds, and the sinecure salaries of the chaplains and 
deans of the Chapel-Royal. Not the half of these sums were con- 
ceived to be necessary in order to build and endow all the churches 
and parochial schools which might be needed. Let these be 
taken and properly appropriated, and Dissenters, voluntaries, and 
enemies to the Church of Scotland, will have no reason to com- 
plain, as not a farthing of the funds required will come out of their 
private purse. 

The manse was built in 1766. It was deemed a splendid build- 
ing, with one of the finest landscapes from it, in the west «of Scot- 
land. It has been frequently repaired. In 1809, the repairs on 
it, which were the last, cost betwixt L. 600 and L. 700. The ex- 
tent of the glebe is scarcely 8 acres, including house and gar- 
den. Its value is not more than L. 20 a-year. 

The amount of stipend is 16 chalders, one- half meal and one- 
half barley, according to the highest fiar prices of the county. 
But the barley is paid not by the county, but by the Linlithgow 
boll, which reduces that half of the stipend six and a-half per cent, 
below the county boll, a thing which is held unwarranted and 
unwarrantable by the Act of Parliament, and in the doing of which 
the Court of Session, as the writer conceives, became legislators, 
and not the executors of the law. By this modifying of stipends, 
ministers are paid neither by the fiars of their county nor Linlith- 
gow. They get the^r^ of the one and the measure of the other, 
which, in practice, is a grievous hardship to the clergy : dfiaking a 
loss, in Renfrewshire, of six and a-quarter per cent, even when the 
fiars in both counties are the same ; but it is still more grievous 
when the Linlithgow fiars are equal to, or higher than those in 
Renfrewshire. But still more : — The court, in modifying stipends 
according to the Linlithgow firlot or boll, is conceived to be set* 
ting at nought the act of Queen Anne, 1707, — called the Act of 
Union,— which abrogates the Linlitl gow firlot, and every other 
measure for grain but the Winchester bushel Its words are, chap, 
xvii. — ^^ That from and after the Union, the same weights and 
measures shall be used throughout the United Kingdom as are 
now established in England,^* 4*c. 

There is only one Seceding chapel in the parish, belonging to 
the United Associate Synod of the Secession Church. The mi- 
nister is paid from the seat-rents and collections chiefly. Salary 
about L. 150. There are neither Episcopalian nor Roman Ca- 



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346 



RENFREWSHIRE. 



tholic chapels in the parish^ nor any other dissenting or sectarian 
meeting-houses. 

The number of families, also the number of persons of all ages 
above twelve, attending the Established Church, the chapels of 
Dissenters and Seceders, Episcopalians and Catholics, with the 
number of their sittings, and communicants in tlieir several churches 
and chapels where they attend, will be found in the following 
table : — 

Fam. Indiv. Sittings Com. Above 12 Prop, of Sits. 



Denomination 
Established Church, 
Dissenters belonging 

to Aflfiociat Synod, 
All other Dissenters, 
Roman Catholics, 
Belong to no church, 



* Farmers, &c. 
Tradesmen, &c. 



1226 

171 

128 

206 

34 



6395 582 1638 



849 

688 

1091 

164 



215 

96 

168 



225 
182 
345 



4492 

599 
427 
762 



9.1 in 100. 

25.3 do. 
13.9 do. 

15.4 do. 



1764 

Fam. Indiv. 

98 639 

342 1890 



9187 1061 



Sits. 
381 
680 



2390 

Com. 
270 
717 



6379 

AboTe 12 

018 

1249 



11.5 in 100 

Prop, of Sit& 

59.6 in 100 
35.9 



Total having sittings, 440 
Total having no sittings, 1324 



2629 
6658 



1061 



987 
1403 



1767 
4612 



41.9 in lOO 



Total population, 1764 9187 1061 2390 6379 11.5 in 100 

Abstract of the whole : Established, 6395 ; Roman Catholics^ 
1091; Burghers, 1032; Episcopalians, 236; Relievers, 154; 
Independents, 36 ; Methodist, 30 ; Reformed Presbyterians, 29 ; 
Universal, 15; Jews, 5; no church, 164 ; total 9187. 

Religious Societies, — There are six societies for charitable and 
religious purposes, two of which are Sabbath-school associations ; 
besides a number of Friendly Societies. 

Such is a minute but accurate account of the ecclesiastical state 
of this parish, with its struggles, successes, and defeats, for free seats 
and ample accommodation. In the mighty exertions that are going 
on for church extension, they took the lead, for at least twenty 
years, and therefore hope to form one of the gems in that crown 
of glory whjch is preparing for Dr Chalmers. 

Education. — The number of schools in this parish is 13. 
There is only one parochial school. All the others are private 
or unendowed. There is none supported by individual subscriptions. 
In the parochial school, are taught English, writing, arithmetic, ma- 
thematics, geography, Latin, Greek, and French. There are three 
others where Latin is taught with the common branches of educa- 
tion. Besides these, there are five schools attached to five of the 
public works, where the children are taught reading, writing, and 



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NE1L8TON. 347 

arithmetic, and there are four female schools where the common 
branches of education, with needle-work are taught* The num- 
ber of scholars at all of these schools amounts to about 1000. 

The parochial teacher has the maximum salary, but his garden 
ground is deficient. When the present school and school-house are 
finished, he will have one of the finest school-houses in the county, 
and double the amount of accommodation which the law allows him* 

Though education is cheap, there are numbers of the young 
between six and fifteen years of age who cannot read or write, and 
not a few upwards of fifteen years of age who are in the same situa- 
tion. Their number cannot be ascertained precisely, as they are 
often unwilling to acknowledge their ignorance. They are chiefly 
Irish. These persons bitterly lament their want, and, with the 
great body of the people, are keenly alive to the benefits of edu- 
cation, and anxious to have their children taught The number of 
schools and scholars in the parish is the best evidence of this. 

What is wanting in such a wealthy parish as this is an aca- 
demy placed in a central locality between Neilston and Barrhead, 
Grahamston and Newton Ralston, where the higher branches of 
education would be taught by well qualified and approved teachers. 
This is a desideratum which the present minister has long pointed 
out as well worthy of attention. 

Notwithstanding the prevalence of education, it must be afiirm- 
ed that among the lower orders of the people, dissipation, the 
profanatiou of the Lord's day, and uncleanliness, are as common as 
ever. The Sabbath schools have notmade the youth moreobservant 
than before of the fifth commandment Respect for superiors is 
seemingly laid aside; and the conduct of boys, adults and men, at the 
elections for a member of Parliament, has only to be witnessed, to 
convince any one that education has not purified their hearts, bet- 
tered their dispositions, humanized their feelings, or rendered their 
manners more courteous. Politics, faction, and party spirit, at 
such times, seem to take Christianity out of their hearts, if it 
ever was in it Kindness is only preserved for friends ; and the 
most rancorous and savage dispositions are cherished for enemies. 
Their cry is liberty; yet the liberty they take to themselves 
they will not allow to others. Indeed, education never has, 
and never will have^ any real permanent efiect on the mind and 
manners of mankind, unless it be a Christian education, which 
alone can bring forth the fruits of righteousuess, — ^' Glory to God 
in the highest, on earth peace, and good will to the children of tnen." 



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348 - RENFREWSHIRE. 

The manners and morality of the better classes have, in general, 
been ameliorated, and the decencies and proprieties of life are 
better observed. Cursing, swearing, drinking to excess, were, 
thirty or forty years ago, very common in these classes. The pro- 
fanation of the Lord's day was carried often to a great length, — 
it was a day of feasting to friends from the city. At such feasts 
deb.uchery reigned ; and nothing was more common than to see 
the guests of some returning home drunk, singing and roar- 
ing, blaspheming, and disturbing all the neighbourhood. Now 
scarcely anything of all this if either seen or heard. But the evil 
habits they have parted with, are taken up by multitudes of the 
working classes, who glory in their shame, and whose vices appear 
still more frightful, by wanting the amenity of their superiors. We 
speak of the irreligious and ungodly which abound here, as in all 
manufacturing parishes ; but, as said already, the externally decent, 
and apparently pious and church-going population, equal in intelli* 
gence, intellectual improvement, and moral and religious habits, 
any classes of the same rank found in the country. 

Literature. — There are no parochial or other circulating libraries 
in the parish. Through the influence of the present minister one 
was got up, and continued for many years. It was pretty exten- 
sive, but, owing to circumstances unnecessary to be detailed, the 
library was sold, and the proceeds distributed amongst the sub- 
scribers. The " Levem's Mechanics' Institution** has, to a certain 
extent, supplied its place. It has a library, in which some of 
the best publications are to be found, relative to science and the 
arts, and especially to mechanics. 

Charitable Institutions, — There are in the parish one Society 
for charity, and seven Friendly Societies, whose object is the re- 
lief of their members when sick, or reduced to poverty. Some 
of them have been in existence since 1797 ; others were instituted 
in 1799, 1805, 1806, 1819, and 1821. Hitherto, their happy 
tendency has been to promote industry, and excite the desire of 
independence, whilst they remove the humbling idea arising from 
parochial or eleemosynary charity. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid from the poor's fund, from February 1836 
to February 1837, was 168, out o a population of 9187 souls. 
The gross expenditure in 1836 was L. 595, 12s. 2id., gi\ ng 
upon an average nearly L. 3, 10s. lid. to eac per annum. This 
sum of L. 595, 12s. 2Jd. was raised as follows : — By collections at 



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NEILSTON. 349 

the church doors, L. 16, 15s. 8d. ; proclamation dues, L. 13, ISs. ; 
hearse and mortcloth hires, L. 5, Os. 2d. ; effects of a pauper 
deceased, L. 41, Ids. 4^d. ; assessment, L.518, 15s. O^d. 

There is no disposition among the poor restraining them from 
seeking parochial relief. Those that are born and bred in the 
parish, and whose relatives and friends are in comfortable circum- 
stances, feel backward to ask relief from the funds, counting it 
degrading ; but the English and Irish poor have no such feeling, 
and often make clamorous solicitation to be put upon the roll. 

Fairs* — These are in number 5. Four of them are held at 
Neilston ; three of them for cattle, on the third Tuesday of Fe- 
bruary, May, and October, old style ; and the fourth for horse- 
racing, &c. on the fourth Tuesday of July, new style. At Barr- 
head, there is a fifth fair held for horse-racing ; and a cattle-market 
on the last Friday and Saturday of June, new style. 

Inns. — The inns and alehouses are in number 58, and the 
quantity of spirits sold in them will be the best answer to the 
query, ** what are their effects on the morals of the people ?" 
That quantity for eleven months only was 19,403 gallons, most 
of which is consumed on the Saturday evenings, and on the Lord's 
days ; Jive hundred gallons more, the excise officer supposes, are 
used, though not in his ledger, and which he is unable ^to detect, 
making in all, 19,903 gallons, at 8s. 6d. on an average ; and the 
amount on this average for the eleven months is L. 8458, 15s. O^d. 
This expenditure proves the high wages which the people receive ; 
and the demoralizing effects which such a quantity of spirituous 
liquors must have upon their morals and habits, may easily be 
supposed. 

FueL — The fuel used is coal of various descriptions, — one kind 
for domestic use, another for the furnaces of the public works, 
and a third for making gas. Some of the first is obtained at the 
Nitshill pits, and Paisley collieries, about the distance of three 
miles from some, and four or four and a-half miles from others. 
Most of the latter is got at Hurlet, and the other pits in the pa- 
rish, and the splint or hard coal for the gas is obtained from 
Muirkirk, a distance of thirty miles. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

The variations betwixt the present state of the parish and that 

which existed at the time of the last Statistical Account, are as 

numerous as they are striking. Save its situation and extent, its 

Jiills and crags, nothing almost is the same now as in 1790. Every 



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350 RENFREWSHIRE. 

thing has undergone a change. The soil has been improved and 
fertilized, and the climate rendered milder and more genial, by 
draining and drying the land, and by sheltering belts and clumps 
of planting. In 1790, there were only two small cotton-mills, one 
printfield, and two bleachfields. In 1837, there are six large cot- 
ton-mills, eight printfields, and eight bleachfields, besides a yariety 
of other works. In 1790, the population was 2330 souls, in 1836 
it was 9187. In 1790, there were only one Episcopalian, one 
Roman Catholic, and six Dissenters in the parish ; in 1836 there 
were. Episcopalians, 236; Roman Catholics, 1091; Dissenters, 
1296 ; total, 2623. In 1790, there were 429 sittings for a popu- 
lation of 2330 souls ; in 1836, there were only 830 sittings for 
a population of 9187. In 1790, there were only three schools in 
the parish ; now there are thirteen, besides five at mills, and four 
female schools for reading and sewing. In 1790, the schools- 
master's salary was only L. 8, 6s. 8d. ; now it is about L. 36, 
with an excellent school-house and small garden. In 1790, there 
were no Justices of the Peace, save one ; now there are nine« five 
of whom are residents. In 1790, there was no Justice of Peace 
Court ; in 1 837, there is one held the first Monday of every month, 
alternately at Neilston and at Barrhead. In 1790, there were an- 
nually killed from thirty to forty cows ; in 1 836, there were skin 380. 
In 1790, the killing of a lamb was a rare thing, and the flesher 
went round amongst the better sort, as he called them, to inquire 
who would take a leg of it ; in 1836, there were slain in the parish 
168 lambs, 778 sheep, 654 veals, and 20 swine. In 1790, the 
roads were scarcely passable, but in the droughts of summer, and 
hard frosts in winter ; but now, owing to the conversion of the 
statute labour, the country roads are excellent In 1790, there 
was only one public road through the parish to Dunlop, Stewarton, 
Kilmarnock, and the whol.e of the west country. It was exceed- 
ingly hilly and steep, in many places, and kept in bad condition. 
In 1837, there is a splendid turnpike road, which leads through 
the whole length of the parish to Irvine and the western coast 
This road, which runs up the course of the Levern, and along the 
beautiful banks of Loch-Libo, is almost a dead level from Glas- 
gow to Irvine. The making and alteration of this line of road from 
the old one, cost, it is said, the trustees about L. 18,000. There 
are on it and the other turnpike roads in the parish, in all, twenty- 
two bridges, great and small. 

Another great advantage would accrue to the inhabitants of Neil- 



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NEILSTON. 351 

slon and the coal-masters of the east, especially to Mr Dickson 
of the 6re-work, were a railway to be carried from the canal at 
Bochtl to the west of Barrhead, or Mr Cunningham's field. Such 
a railway would pay well, from the immense quantity of coal used 
at the numerous public works in this parish, and by its inhabitantSi 

In 1790, there were no stage coaches running from the parish to 
Glasgow, or Paisley, or Irvine. In 1836, there were four, viz. the 
Levem Trader, the Perseverance, the Sons of Commerce, and the 
Union stage-coach from Irvine to Glasgow, by lx>ch*Libo. All 
these started in the morning about nine o'clock, and returned in 
the evening. On Thursdays, two started, one from Neilston and 
Barrhead, and returned in the afternoon. 

Thus easy and ample means of conveyance are afforded to the 
easl^ and west, and north. Still, a very great advantage would be 
conferred upon the manu&cturers and masters of public works, if 
the tolls were lowered. About twenty-six carts from the public works 
and carriers of Barrhead and Neilston, besides others, pass four 
tolls a day, the rates of which are very high. In 1790, there were 
only about five or six publicans; in 1836, there were fifty-eight. 

But the greatest of all the changes made on the parish, is in its 
rental, — which in 1790 was little more than L. 8000, — while now 
it amounts to L. 16,475, 5s. 9d. In 1790, the value of the whole 
land in the parish at thirty years' purchase was L. 90,000 ; it is 
now at the same rate L. 494,250. * 

The improvements required here are, — that our town should be 
created a burgh of barony, with its magistrates and police, and a 
good, strong, and efficient jail. Nexf^ the parish church should 
be enlarged, or another built at Barrhead ; for how can it be ex- 
pected that a man excluded from religious instruction and Divine 
ordinances, can be a good moral man ? Yet here are 9187 all ex* 
eluded, save 830. Can this state of things lead men to ** fear 
God, honour the King, and meddle not with them that are given 
to change ?" 

Excepting the flow-mosses, it appears that at one time or other 
this parish had been all under cultivation ; and by proper draining, 

* We omitted abore to advert to the management o£dunghiU»t which is susceptible 
of an improvement of the highest importance. This improvement would be, to build 
them in the foim of a hay stalk, and square,— and to have a trench around them, and 
a vf//.at the bottom of it, where the drippi ngs of the cows in the byre may fall. The 
dung to be spread evenly on the " midden,** then watered with the drippings from 
the Well ; and with the straw covered from the sun and wind. Let this be done daily, 
and in spring the '* midden" will cut like a piece of new cheese, and be doubly valu- 
able. 

' RENFREW. A a 

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352 RENFREWSHIRE. 

the moss is capable of being improved. There are great facilities 
to this from the ready means of external communication, and the 
abundant command of manure, lime, and coah But lime or manure 
are of no use till the mosses are drained and levelled, and cleared of 
bent. The lime, to the amount of eight or nine chalders per acre, will, 
after two or three years rest, call its productive powers into action ; 
and, by judicious management and cropping, the improver will 
not only have the delightful feeling* of making a new creation to 
spring up on his property, but of adding to his wealth, and in- 
creasing the comforts and happiness of the labouring classes. 

The success of Colonel Fulton, (though there were no other 
example in the parish,) is animating and encouraging to the rest 
of the heritors, who have abundance of moss to cultivate, which is 
as susceptible of improvement as either Ck)lonel Fulton's, or Mr 
Graham's hills of Fereneze. A word to the wise is enough. Let 
those who are fearful of the expense, and the doubtfulness of an 
ample return for their outlay, ponder well the following extract, 
taken from the Ayrshire Agricultural Report, drawn by that ta- 
lented and skilful improver, William Aiton, Esq. late of Stratbaven. 
" If," says he, " the noble families of Loudon and Dumfries, 
and other proprietors of the soil, would pay attention to that spe- 
cies of improvement — bent moss — in any degree suitable to its im- 
portance, their revenues might be greatly augmented, the industry 
of their tenants amply rewarded, and the food of man, from these 
quarters, greatly multiplied. I know no way in which so great a 
return can be obtained with so little advance, and so great cer- 
tainty, as in the improvement of the bent-moss. When purchases 
of land are made, the proprietor is contented with a return of 3^ 
or 4 per cent, of the price he has paid ; but by a judicious and 
well-conducted improvement of bent-moss, 20, 50, and in many 
instances 100 per cent, per annum, may be obtained for all the 
money advanced on that species of improvement, — a profit so great, 
the satisfaction of enlarging their own estates, and increasing their 
rent-roll, without diminishing that of any other person; exciting 
industry among their .tenantry ; multiplying the food of man, and 
the resources of the nation ; will, I sincerely hrpe, rouse all who 
have bent-moss on their estates, instantly to set about the reclaim- 
ing of it. It is by far the most profitable, and at the same time 
the most patriotic species of improvement that can be- pursued." 

March 1837. 



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PARISH OF KILBARCHAN. 

PRESBYTERY OF PAISLEY, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. ROBERT DOUGLAS, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The name of this parish is not improbably derived 
from three Gaelic words, viz. jKt7, a cell, BrtB or Bar^ a hill, and 
Chariy a vale or plain, and would thus signify the ^' chapel of the 
hill-bounded vale." Such a designation is strikingly descriptive 
of the situation of the church and village, — on a gently rising 
ground, sheltered on three sides by wooded hills, and sloping 
down gradually towards the south, where it is quite open. From 
a glen, formed by the rather sudden rise of two of these elevated 
ridges, issues a streamlet, which, after winding round Glentyan 
Hill on the north-west, and supplying a power, to keep in activity 
the busy scene of a corn-mill and a bleachfield not far distant, pur- 
sues a south-easterly course through part of Captain Stirling's 
pleasure-grounds, where it presents a succession of delightful 
short falls at intervals, — till, having watered also part of the 
Milliken pleasure-grounds, it falls into the Black Cart, a mile 
or thereby to the eastward, a little above Johnstone. Some, 
however, would trace the name up to St Barchan, who is, by 
tradition, said to have lived, as well as to have founded a place of 
worship in this very inviting locality, in the age of the Culdees. 
Yet, as in remoter periods, the names of individuals were not un- 
frequently adopted from those of the places where they were 
born, or in which they acquired superior distinction, the two ac- 
counts may coincide more nearly than at first sight might have 
i^peared. 

Lest the above-mentioned origin of the name should seem fan- 
ciful, it may not, perhaps, be deemed too minute an observation 
to remark, what may appear somewhat singular, that, notwith- 
standing the corruption to which the merely oral transmission of 
names is liable, during'so long a period as musthave elapsed since the 
Celtic was the vernacular language of this district, a very great num- 



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354 RENFREWSHIRE. 

ber of the oames of the properties and farms in the higher district, 
to westward of the church and village, are unquestionably of Cel- 
tic origin ; whereas those to eastward are designated in the common 
dialect of the low country of Scotland. Eyery person who has eyen 
the slightest tincture of the former language, must at once recognize 
the traces of it in Auchinames or Butterfield, remarkable for its very 
fine pasturage ; Auchinsale (east and west) t. 6. Bamfield ; Auchin- 
cloichs, high and low, €tr Stoneyfield ; Branchell, (perhaps Brean- 
choil, as in Monteith, near Callender) ; and if so. Wood-head, or 
above the wood ; Bambeth, top or head of the birches ; and, to 
specify no more, Torrs^ a name indicating some striking <^ heights'' 
— ^a name occurring in numberless instances from the north of 
Scotland to the Mam- Tors in the central, and the Torbay, Tor- 
quay of the south of England, and Torres Vedras, on the south- 
western limit of Celtic dominion in Europe. 

Situation. — In respect of local position, this parish may be re- 
garded as forming the centre of Renfrewshire, at an equal distance 
from Polnoon Lodge, a seat of the Earl of Eglinton, in Eagle- 
sham parish, (some fifteen miles to south-east,) and Ardgowan 
House, nearly as far to north-west, in the parish of Innerkip ; — 
both parishes forming the extreme points of this county, thoi^h 
the former is in the presbytery of Glasgow, as the latter in that of 
Greenock. In breadth, the county extends scarcely seven miles 
south-westerly from Kilbarchan village to Clerksbridge, on the 
borders of Ayrshire, on the road to Beith, and a like distance 
northerly to the West Ferry on the Clyde, opposite to Dunbar- 
ton Castle. 

Extent — This parish is in extent somewhat more than 7 miles 
from east to west, with an average breadth of above 2 miles ; pre- 
senting an area of upwards of 14 square miles, or 9216 English 
acres. 

Boundaries and Figure.'^Its figure is that of an isosceles triangle, 
of which the apex points eastward ; and its two sides are, on the 
south-east the Black Cart, and on the north the Gryfe, meeting 
in the eastern extremity. The western and shortest side, forming 
the base of the isosceles triangle, is, for a very considerable part of it, 
marked by the natural boundary of St Bride's Burn ; which falls into 
the Cart, justwhereitissuesfrom CastlesempleLoch, — these streams 
by their confluence forming the south-west angle of the figure 
already referred to. The contiguous parishe s are, Lochwinnoch on 
the west and south-west ; the Abbey of Paisley , south and south-east; 



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KILBARCHAN. 355 

ReDirew^ east ; Inchinnan and Erskine, north-east ; Houston and 
Kilellan, north ; and Kilmalcolm, north-west. Thus, by its cen- 
tral position, and great length, as compared with its breadth, it 
bounds with a greater number of parishes than any other in Ren- 
frewshire. 

Topographical Appearances, — Its aspect, without any very re- 
markably bold or striking features, is picturesque, being well 
wooded, and varied by many rising grounds. It is most elevated 
towards the west and north-west, where it joins the parishes of 
Lochwinnoch and Kilmalcolm ; within the former of which, at 
the distance of some miles, the Misty Law^ not unfrequently 
snow-capt — oftener cloud-capt, as the very name indicates, — ex- 
hibits to the wide range of the surrounding country a series of di- 
versified aspects, in which every practised eye has learned to ex- 
pound the symptoms of each successive change of weather. Of 
Kilbarchan parish, the eastern district is, in general, level and 
fertile, stretching across, on both sides, from the Gryfe to the 
Black Cart ; which latter river, in a course not far from rectili- 
neal, divides Renfrewshire into two equal parts. Its course is 
from Castlesemple Loch to its confluence with the Clyde, below 
Inchinnan bridges ; at which the White Cart, swelled by its tribu- 
taries, the Levem from Neilston parish,' with other minor streams 
from the eastward, £aglesham and Meams, enlarge the embou- 
chure of a river, which, though of no very long course, gathers its 
waters over the entire length and breadth of the county, from the 
borders of Cathcart to the heights that overhang Greenock ; — the 
Shaws water and rivulet of the Kypp alone excepted. 

About the centre of this parish, there rises to the eastward of 
the ^* hill-bounded vale," a somewhat detached eminence, called 
the Barr Hill, stretching onwards for a mile or thereby, where, 
after a covered walk or drive of considerable extent, you are agree- 
ably surprised by a fine opening on the house and pleasure-grounds 
of Milliken. Rising precipitately on the north, and sloping gra- 
dually to the south and south-east, its steep greenstone rocks, 
thickly covered with dark fir and other well-grown wood, fringing 
the summit, and projected on the azure sky, the whole presents to 
the eye a very striking and bold feature in the landscape. Even 
where the roots of the fir have inserted themselves in the rifted 
rock, or amid the rude masses which time and frost, by its action 
on the water in the fissures, have hurled from above, the growth 
and vigour of the wood exceed all expectation. 



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356 RENFREWSHIRE. 

The grounds which rise to the westward of the village, and at 
no very great distance, command some most extensive prospects; 
owing less to their elevation, which is inconsiderable, than to 
openings in different directions. While Benlomond towers majes- 
tically to northward, with other kindred summits of the Grampian 
chain in Argyle and Perthshire, the eye, which has just ranged 
round to Ailsa- Craig, quite distinctly seen, now glances eastward 
to rest on a rich panoramic prospect, where the spires of Glasgow, 
piercing the sky, and its bright squares and crescents opening to 
the west, under a bright evening sun, occupy the centre of the 
picture, while the back-ground is formed by the Shotts Hills ; 
and, in very favourable circumstances, even Arthur's Seat is to be 
distinguished in the eastern horizon.* 

Meteorology. — The climate, like that of the west of Scotlandin ge- 
neral, is humid. The quantity of rain evaporated from the Atlantic, 
and swept along by the cloud-compelling force of our prevailing 
westerly and south-westerly winds, is more equally diffused over 
the whole course of the year. The extremely heavy rains, ex- 
perienced on the east coast at particular times, are here unknown. 
Of this a memorable instance may be noticed in the frightful 
floods of 1829 in the east and north, to which nothing in these 
parts presented even the faintest resemblance. It would be ut- 
terly superfluous to repeat, in this place, what is stated in the ad- 
joining parish of Lochwinnoch in reference to the observations 
furnished by the rain-guages, the barometer and thermometer, 
with the course of winds, &c. in Castlesemple gardens, which are 
on the border of the two parishes, and equally applicable to both. 
In regard to the state of health of the population generally, epi- 
demics, such as fever of typhus or other types, are experienced to 
no great extent, and endemics not at all. Consumptive com- 
plaints are the most prevalent, in addition to the ordinary diseases 
of the inflammatory class, so often fatal to infancy and early years. 
A more general use of flannel worn under linen is a precaution of 
the utmost importance. The sedentary employment at the hand- 
16omof an incomparably greater proportion of the population of this 
village than that of Paisley itself; and that not unfrequently in a 
shop somewhatdamp, as being more adapted to the work; is frequent- 

* Of this, the writer had his doubts, though seriously averred by more competent 
observers, till in August 1822, when, on the auspicious visit of George IV., the 
bonfires on that hiU were distinctly seen even in this central district of the barony 
of Renfrew. 



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KILBAHCHAN. 357 

'\y felt to occasion something morbid in the lower extremities, unless 
where the constitution is sound, and the habits of living correctly re- 
gular. The cholera of 1832 showed itself here after midsummer, 
and numbered only five victims. Afearful proportion of deaths took 
place in Linwood, among a population not nearly half the number 
of that of this village. This parish may be regarded as in general 
healthy ; and individuals often attain a very advanced age. Mr 
Robert Semple, of the ancient family of Beltrees, died here in 
1789, aged lOa 

Hydrography. — In the western and more elevated division of 
this parish, springs are abundant, and the water of excellent qua* 
lity. In the eastern section, which is level and richer in the pro- 
duce of the soil, the springs are comparatively few, and of a qua- 
lity quite inferior; but rendered,- by the simple process of filtra- 
tion, now very generally adopted, perfectly fit for every purpose. 
A petrifying, or rather incrusting, spring was, some years ago, dis- 
covered on the banks of the Locher, from which many beautiful 
specimens of dendritic carbonate of lime have been procured. The 
substances subjected to its action were preserved entire within the 
crust Some years ago, a mineral or medicinal spring at Candren, 
near Linwood village, attracted considerable notice for its sanatory 
•virtues. The water was subjected to chemical analysis by Dr 
- Lyell, who ascertained its similarity to some others farther fam- 
ed and more frequented ; where the result of a change of scene, 
and sometimes of climate also, may be indiscriminately attributed 
to the health-restoring qualities of the favourite spring. This, 
however, as it is locally situated on the right bank of the Cart, 
although in the near vicinity of the above-mentioned flourishing 
village, will no doubt fall to be more particularly noticed in the 
account of the Abbey parish. 

Besides the only two considerable rivers, viz. Black Cart and 
Gryfe, which form the natural boundaries of this parish on the 
south and north respectively, there is a pretty considerable stream 
named Locher. While Black Cart issues from its parent lake at 
Castlesemple, on the south-west angle of this parish, close upon 
the boundary which separates it from Lochwinnoch, the Gryfe 
has its source in the moors immediately above Greenock. Locher 
is a tributary of the Gryfe, into which it pours its stream about a 
mile below the House of Craigends ; which is built almost literally 
on the. right bank of the former river. The Black Cart, from its 
confluence with the Gryfe not far from the House of Walkinshaw, 



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358 RENFREWSHIRE. 

waters a very fertile plain between the bridges of Bamsford and 
iDchinnaD ; whence, from the point of junction here with the 
White Cart, it constitutes the latest as well as the largest addi- 
tion to the noble estuary of the Clyde. As might be expected 
in a tract of country rising so little above the level of that river, 
the tide makes up a considerable way above the House of Black- 
stoun, the site of which is not far from the apex of the triangle to 
which we said this parish has a resemblance. 

Some beautiful cascades are formed by the Locher, about five 
miles from its source, and before leaving the trap amid which it 
takes its rise, and entering into the rocks of the coal formation. The 
banks of the rivulet where these cascades appear, and to which 
the pencil only could do justice, are overhung by plantations, in 
which the elm, the hazel, the birch, and the mountain-ash by 
turns prevail 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The geology of this parish presents 
nothing very peculiar. The whole is of secondary formation. 
The species of rock most abundant are, greenstone, amygdaloid, 
and wacke conglomerate. Trap tufei also is found, but is not 
common. In widening a road a little to the west of the village, 
upon the border of the secondary trap, and very near its junction 
with the coal formation, a curious variety of rock was lately found* 
It consists of pieces of chalcedony, in size from one-half to one- 
fourth of an inch or less in diameter. The pieces of chalcedony 
were firmly united together by an argillaceous cement, forming a 
compound exceedingly hard. It occurred in ill-defined flags, 
overlaid by claystone, and both resting upon very fine-grained 
greenstone. The pieces of chalcedony were angular, forming, 
with the cementing substance, a chalcedonic breccia. A few spe- 
cimens of white camelian wer^e observable in the claystone over- 
lying it Ironstone, there seems reason to think, exists in consi- 
derable quantities, and a pit is now in progress of sinking for work- 
ing it. 

CoaL — In the lower section of this parish the secondary roeks 
are overlaid by the independent coal formation. The extent, how- 
ever, of this deposit to the eastward .is not well ascertained, as it 
is covered by diluvium. The rocks belonging to the coal formar 
tion in this parish do not extend into Ayrshire by the valley of 
the Black Cart and Castlesemple Loch, as has been supposed. 
They are interrupted at Kenmuir, on the western side of this pa- 
rish, by secondary greenstone, which crosses the valley at this 



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KILBARCHAN. 359 

place. The stratified rocks from Ayrshire crop out on this trap, 
while the stratified rocks on the west of this parish, and on the 
east of Lochwinnoch, without any alteration of their dip, run up 
nearly to the trap and terminate. The trap is not in the form of 
a dike, but is merely an elevation of the great mass of trap on 
which the coal strata are superimposed. 

Coal has been wrought to a considerable extent. Formerly, it 
was wrought in mines ; partly in the Barrhill, and partly on 
Craigends' estate, along the Locher and Gryfe. These mines 
were driven into the hills, or the steep banks of the rivers, in the 
plane of the strata, which, in these cases, lay near the surface, but 
are now almost entirely discontinued. But several pits are now 
in operation on the same lands ; the coal lying generally at the 
depth of from ten to twenty fathoms. Coalbog is the appropriate- 
ly descriptive name of a farm on the lands of Craigends, stretch- 
ing along the Gryfe ; and in the conterminous lands of Kaimhill, 
a trouble (in the language of the miners) throws up the strata nine 
fathoms. It is composed of slate-clay, and runs in a direction from 
east to west The sales from all the pits in operation at present, 
probably do not reach the sum of L. 2000 per annum, as the vil- 
lage and parish generally have their principal supply from the pits 
at Quarrelton,in the Abbey parish, near Johnstone, with which there 
is communication by bridges over the river Cart to the number of 
four, in the course of little more than one mile. The dip of the 
strata of the coal formation appears to be nearly east, subject, how- 
ever, to much variation. The angle at which they dip is not great. 
The secondary rocks in the higher parts of the parish are not strati- 
fied. Limestone is wrought at the same pits as the coal which it over- 
lies, and in burning it a considerable quantity of the coal is con- 
sumed. The lime, though not, perhs^s, of first quality, is in fair 
demand, both for building and magure. It abounds in Entrochi, 
&c and the slate clay which overlies it contains a great number of 
bivalve shells. 

In the Barrhill quarry, in the neighbourhood of the village, and 
from ^hich a considerable part of it has been built within the me- 
mory of some still living here, stratified greenstone is found over- 
lying freestone belonging to the coal strata ; an arrangement by 
no means common. The quality of the latter is excellent ; but in 
order to work it now, so great a quantity of greenstone must be 
removed that, the value of the freestone is in consequence very 
considerably diminished. 



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360 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Crystallized quartz is found in small quantities, and red foli- 
ated zeolite has been found a little north of the village at Pennel 
Brae, in the secondary greenstone ; as well as Laumonite, a rather 
rare substance. Calcareous spar is frequent^ 

Soil. — Alluvial deposits covering the old diluvium are found in 
the lower or eastern section of the parish. In some quarters, the 
alluvial soil is overgrown with a great quantity of peat moss ; — to 
remove which, various attempts have been made, not without suc- 
cess, as shall be noticed afterwards. The soil of the west and 
northern parts of this parish, on the higher district towards the 
source of Locher, and onwards in the direction of the Gryfe, may 
be generally described as gravelly, or light whinstone soil, peculiar- 
ly adapted for green crops. The lower division, viz. on the south- 
west and southern quarter, stretching to the vale of the Black 
Cart through its entire course, with the lower districts along the 
Gryfe and Locher, are, under proper management, more parti- 
cularly adapted, besides the usual grain crops, for the cultivation 
of beans and wheat. 

Zoology, — Foxes, polecats, weasels, rabbits, and hares, the sports- 
men's amusements, vermin to the farmer, are here found as in the 
adjoining districts. Herons sometimes visit our streams. Hawks, 
wood-pigeons, and pheasants are found in our plantations ; and the 
beautiful golden-crested wren is occasionally seen in some of our 
woods. 

Trout and parr are found in our streams, although not of any 
great size. Their numbers are greatly diminished, not by fishing 
merely, but also by netting, liming, and other reprehensible prac- 
tices of the poacher. Salmon were formerly common, but, from va- 
rious causes, are now greatly reduced in number. The falling off of 
the salmon-fishings in the Clyde, to whatever causes attributable, 
must in a still higher degree ^affect their appearing in our in- 
land fishing-ground. These, as well as the sea-trout, come up in 
the autumn. While passing the breasts of the mill-dams in the 
close season, great numbers are killed in the following manner : — A 
net is fixed on a wooden frame of about four feet long and twenty 
inches broad, so as to form a bag about two feet deep, suspended by 
cords fastened to the four corners, and fixed to the inlair or breast of 
the dam. If the fish cannot completely clear the inlair and reach 
the deep water beyond, he iklls back, and is. in his descent, inter- 
cepted by the cruive, from which he rarely escapes. By this lawless 
practice, dozens of salmon have been sometimes destroyed in a day. 



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KILBARCHAN. 361 

There are pike and perch, as well as the Pagrus vulgaris or braize, 
in the Black Cart, as might be naturally expected, since its 
parent lake abounds with perch and the finest pike. 

The following is a list of some shells found in this quarter:— 

Patella lacustris, on stones in streams Helix lucida, old walls 

Odostoniia muscorum, under stones and .^^>^ radiata, under stones, &c. 

in hollows of decayed wood ,>,.»^.^ umbilicata, do. do. 

I^jnuiaca putris, ditches, &c. common ,^,>... ,■■■>« nemoralis, woods and hedges 

,.,^ fontinalis, watery places .......^^ arbuRtorum, do. da 

,^ . lubrica, under stones, &c. «,«...«^ paludosa, among moss. 

Helix rufesoens, do. do. 

Botany. — The strong impetus given to agriculture, from obvi- 
ous causes, during half a century bypast, in so narrow a district as 
Renfrewhire, teeming as it does with a rapidl y growing popula- 
tion, has greatly narrowed the field of the botanist's researches ; 
and the woods are, with few exceptions, of recent origin. 

The following are the rarer plants of Kilbarchan : — 

Saxifraga hypnoides, Marshall Moor Hypericum perforatum, Auchinames 

Hypericum humifusum* abundant Lepidium campestre. Ward House 

..> >>....'.» pulchrum, do. Lithospermnm officinale, do. 

Convolvulus sepium, St Bride's Mill Narcissus pseudo> narcissus, naturalized, 

Utricularia minor, Marshall Moor St Bride*s Mill 

Knautia arvensis, Clochoderick Verbascum thapsus, Crossflatt, some 

Veronica polita, common seasons only 

Adoxa moschatellina, St Bride's Mill Primula veris, glebe 

Arundo phragmites. Black Cart Pyrethrum parthenicum, Over Johnstone 

fiidens tripartita, St Bride's Mill Banunculus aquatilis, a curious variety, 

Clirysosplenium alter nifol turn, do. petals inflated and filled with air, in 

Epilobium angustifoliuro, Barrhill swift running parts of the Black Cart 

Clinopodium vulgare, do, ' Spirsea salicifolia, Barrhill 

Conium raaculatum, church-yard, sown Trifolium medium, abundant 

there as being deemed medicinal Phallus frstidus, St Bride^s Mill 

Drosera rotundifolia, Marshall Moor Lecidia casio-rufa, do. 

Bromus giganteus, St Bride's Mill Lecanora perellus, frequent 

Festuca elatior, do. Cenomyce fimbriata, Marshall Moor 

Fumaria capreolata .,, ^ gracilis, do. 

.^....^ officinalis, a of Hooker ^ com. in ... ,...> filiformis, do. 

,-.. officinalis, /3. of Hooker > cultivat ^>.^^ racemosa« 'St Bride's Mill 

i^>,»>^ media of De CandoUe 3 grounds Usnea plicata, Greenside Wood 

Geranium dissectum, glebe Scytonema atrovirens, St Bride's Bum 

^...^......^^ pratense. Black Cart Lemaqia fluviatilis, do. 

Hieracium pulmonarium, near the vil- 
lage 

Plantations, — This parish contains no natural woods ; but al- 
most every considerable property has plantations, in some degree 
corresponding to its exent The estate of Milliken presents a 
large extent of plantation, as well old as more recent, to which the 
present proprietor has judiciously added. Of what is immediate- 
ly connected with the family seat, the Barr Hill, rising with a bold 
ascent and stretching a mile to westward, and its columns of basalt 
surmounted by a lofty fringe of thriving wood, — has been already 



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362 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Doticed, as giving a characteristic feature to the inland landscape, 
particularly to the eye of the traveller from the northward. 

On another point of the horizon, Glentyan House, the residence 
of Captain James Stirling, R. N., presents itself, overlooking the 
village from the north-west, from amid a smiling scene, which the 
good taste and generous activity of the proprietor has almost 
created within a few years. 

Turning our eye eastward to the less picturesque, though now 
not unprofitable flat once covered with a forest, and since reduced 
to moss earth, overlying a valuable subsoil, we see the success of the 
experiment made some fifty years ago by planting moss with wood, 
after the turf had been carried off for fuel, a success still evinced 
on the lands of Clippens, as well as on the contiguous estate of 
Blackstoun. 

Upon the estate of Craigends, too, there is a lai^ extent of 
planting, some of which is of very considerable age, in all little short 
of forty acres. The lands of Torrs, likewise^ have " the heights," 
from which their designation is taken, though with a northern 
exposure, covered with a large extent of thriving plantation, where 
only the bare heath and rugged rock frowned on the valley of the 
Giyfe and Duchal waters. 

In tracing previously the limits of this parish, marked as they 
are at almost every point by the natural boundaries of a river or 
streamlet, St Bride's Burn, its limit on this side, was noticed as 
joining the Cart, as it has just leflt the loch, and not far from the 
mansion-house of Castlesemple. A considerable part, consequent- 
ly, of the noble park and pleasure grounds fsdls on this side of our 
boundary line. The wood, all planted, on that part of the estate 
which is in this parish, may at the lowest estimate extend to sixty 
acres. 

Of the forest trees planted in different quarters of this parish, 
the principal are the 

Larch, Pinus lariz Scotch fir. Pious sylvestris 

Plane, Acer pseudo«platanus Oak, Quercus robur 

Ash, Frazinus ezceldor Elm, Ulmus caropestris 

I^abumum, Cytisus laburnum Horse-chestnut, Esculus hippocastanum 

Beech, Fagus syWatica Birch, Betula alba. 

No trees are at present pointed out as remarkable for their extra- 
ordinary age or size. 

11. — Civil History. 
Farmer Proprietors, — In former times, part of the parish of 
Kilbarchan belonged to the Abbey of Paisley. The house of 
Blackstoun, some two miles distant from the Abbey, and on the left 



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KILBARCHAN. 363 

bank of the Cart, was the country seat or summer's residence of the 
Abbot, and was built by George Shaw, who presided over that 
monastery in the reign of King James IV. The mansion-house 
was much improved by James, first Earl of Abercom, on the erec- 
tion of the lands belonging to the monks of Paisley into a tem- 
porality in favour of that family. 

A considerable part of the lands in this parish belonged to the 
Noble family of Dundonald; and in this immediate neighbourhood, 
upwards of a hundred years possession by another family of the 
highest respectability, has not succeeded in effacing the remem- 
brance or^ obliterating the name of the distinguished House of 
Cochrane. — Auchinames is the designation of a barony held by 
the very ancient and powerful family of Crawford. At a compara- 
tively late period, a portion of it, ascertained by the name of <* Third 
Part," was vested in a separate branch of the family ; and in 1523 
conveyed to William Lord Sempil, to whose lands it is still attach- 
ed. The barony of Ranfurlie, likewise, so long held h^ the femily 
from whom our illustrious Reformer sprung, came to be alienated, in 
1665 by the last proprietor of the fomily of Knox, to William, first 
Karl of Dundonald. 

The village of Kilbarchan is a place of some antiquity, but 
there are few historical circumstances connected with it. In the 
church-yard, are still seen some remains of an ancient church or 
chapel, but without any date or other inscription preserved to in- 
dicate the period or immediate object of its erection. John, Lord 
Sempill, appears to have endowed the Old College or collegiate kirk 
of Castlesemple, 21st April 1504, for a provost, six chaplains, and 
two singing-boys. The said provost was also vicar of Glasford. 
The foundation charter specifies the share of the teinds and lands 
falling to each chaplain. As to what respects this immediate vi- 
cinity, ** the fourth chaplain shall have the lands of Upper Pennal, 
and the house where Robert Red formerly dwelt, and also 40 shil- 
lings, as a yearly pension from the lands of Bryntschellis. The 
fifkh chaplain shall have the lands of Nether Pennal with its mill. 
There shall be an organ in the collegiate kirk, and a school for 
singing. The boys shall be instructed in the Gregorian music, with 
points or pricks, and they shall be supported with food and clothing; 
for which maintenance the said chaplain shall enjoy the benefice 
of the clergyman of Kilbarchan. That chaplain shall pay the clerk 
or curate serving in the kirk of Kilbarchan. The provost and the 
chaplains shall have five merks from the lands of east Weitlands, 



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364 RENFREWSHIRE. 

in the parish of Kilbarchan, and the lands annexed formerly to the 
chapel of St Bryde, in the village of Kenmuir, by our forbears."* 
The granting of an annuity out of certain lands to his chaplains, 
would seem to imply that the property was, at the period in ques- 
tion, vested in Lord SempilL 

The lands of Johnstone (at present Milliken) appear to have 
descended to the representatives of Thomas Wallace of Auchin- 
bothy, son of William Wallace of Elderslie, in the end of the 
fourteenth or early in the fifteenth century. — " The Lordis de- 
crette (30 June 1494,) that Robert Cocherane of that ilk does 
wraog in the awayd rawing of the watter of Black Kert fra the 
mylne of Johnstoune, pertening heretably to Robert Wallace, to the 
said Robert Cocherane's mylne. And tharfore ordinis the said 
Robert Cocherane to decist and cess tharfra in tyme to cum, to be 
braikit and joisit by the said Robert Wallace, efter the forme of the 
chartour, possession and retouris gevin tharupon, schewin, producit, 
before the |x)rdis, and ordinis that letrez be written to charge said 
Robert Cocherane to decist and cess tharfra all perturbacion of 
the said Robert Wallace in the mylne watter of Black Kert." f 

Subjoined is a list of the landed proprietors of the parish of 
Kilbarchan, with the valued rent in pounds Scots attached to each 
property. N.B. — Those marked * are non-resident. 

Sir William M. Napiur of Milliken and Napier, Bart. - L. 

* Lieutenant Colonel Harvey of Castlesemple, 
William Cmiinghame of Craigends, £sq. 
William Napier of Blackstoun, Esq. . - » 

* James MacCall of Laws, Esq. Daldowie, - - - 

* James Wattof Ranfurlie, Esq. and of Heathfield, parish of Lochwinnoch, 

Greenock, - . • 

Heirs of late Dr John Colquhoun, Greenock, 
Captain James Stirling, R. N. of Glentyan, ... 

Major M'Dowall, of Carruth, for part of Torrs, 
John Sandeman and others for Wardhouse, &c. 
James Stevenson, Esq. of Auchinames, - - - 

Messrs Alexander, Arthur, and John Lang of Bruntchells, &c. 
Mr John Craig of Monkland, &c. ... 

* Mr Robert Pattison of Damtoun and Plainlees, 

* Mr John Gregg of Cartside and Clavens, 

* Alexander. M'Culloch, Esq., M. D. of Mansure, &c. Craigbet 
Messrs James and William Holmes Bruntchells, &c. 

* Adam Keir, Esq. banker, Barnbroke, ... 

* Heirs of Captain Troop, (Mr Cameron, &&) Barmufflock, 
Mr Robert Wm. Lang, L. 8, and J. Houstoun for Langside, L. 3, 68. 8d. 
Mr James Climie of Killochant, - . 
^r Peter Holms of Hairlaws, .... 
Mr James Jackson of Huthead, . ^ . 
Mr Hugh Ferrier of Clippens and R^rvraes, ... 

* Charta Johan. Dom. Sempill, &c. Wishaw's Lanark and Renfrewshires, p. 285. 
t Acta Dominorum Concillii Rcgni, Jacobo III. et Jacobo IVt Regibus Scoto. 
rum. Printed folio, but no date or place given, p. 345. 



1427 12 





921 16 


8 


910 6 


8 


657 18 


4 


876 


3 


xjh, 
800 


0. 


260 





150 





18 13 


4 


109 18 





149 





70 3 


4 


68 18 





68 6 


8 


80 





60 


8 


60 6 





50 





50 





11 6 


6 


50 





17 2 


8 


48 





100 






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18 16 





33 6 


8 


33 6 


8 


32 





32 6 


8 


42 13 


4 


29 13 


4 


23 6 


8 


23 6 


8 



KILBARCHAN. 365 

Mr Willmm Erskine of West Overton, 
Mr John Stevenaon of W. BarnbeUi, 

• Mr Robert Fyfe of Passenlinn, - - 
Captain Duncan Graham, 6th Foot, Meadside, &c. J. P. 

• William Graham, Esq. Glasgow, High Bruntchell, 

• Mr Hugh Ctldwell, Braes and Gowden Knowes, 

• Mr Robert Jamieson of Littleton, 

Mr James Clarke, of Burnfoot, - - - 

Mr James Lylc, Horseirood, &c. ... 

Total valued rent per Cess-books, L. 6277 15 

Antiquities* — Nearly one mile and a-half north-west of the vil- 
lage, and about half a mile from Bridge of Weir, stand the ruins 
of the Castle of Ranfurly or Ramphorlie, the seat of the ancient 
family of Knocks or Knox. Mr George Crawford, an author 
worthy of all credit, in his history of Renfrewshire in 1710, says, 
" You find in the registers of the Abbey of Paisley, frequent men- 
tion made of the Knoxes in the reigns of Alexander IL and III., 
as witnesses to the charters of that Abbey. They were promise 
caously designed of Ranfurly and Craigends ; for this I have seen 
a grant of half the lands of Knock, by Uchter Knock of Ranfurly 
to George Knox, his son, in the year 1503. Uchter Knox of 
Craigends is one of the arbiters betwixt the Abbey of Paisley and 
the burgh of Renfrew in 1488. And in our public records I have 
seen a charter of confirmation by King James III. of a resignation 
of the barony of Ranfurly and Grief Castle, by John Knox of 
Craigends, in favour of Uchter Knox, his son, about the year 1474. 
This family failed in the person of Uchter Knox of Ranfurly, who 
left one daughter (by his wife Elizabeth, daughter of Sir William 
Mure of Rowallan,) called Elizabeth ; married to John Cuning* 
ham of Caddell. The barony was alienated in 1665, by Uchter 
Knox, last mentioned, to William, first Earl of Dundonald." 

A descendant of this family was the great and good John Knox, 
the distinguished instrument for effecting the Reformation in Scot- 
land. Mr Andrew Knox, grand-uncle of the last named Uchter 
Knox, was successively minister of Lochwinnoch and of Paisley, 
continuing in the latter charge from about 1585 till 1600. He 
was, on the re-establishment of Episcopacy, appointed Bishop of 
the Isles; and afterwards succeeded by his son Thomas Knox, 
upon his own translation to the see of Raphoe (in Ireland,) where 
he died in 1632. " He was," adds the historiographer for Scot- 
land, — " a person of considerable learning and moderate temper ; 
and averse from all manner of persecution for matters of church 
government ; and very much disposed to oblige his countrymen, 
who had left Scotland for their aversion to the then established 



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366 RENFREWSHIRE. 

government of this church. He concurred in ordaining some Pres- 
byterian ministers, in conjunction with several ministers of that 
communion, saying, ' He thought his old age prolonged for lit- 
tle other purpose, but doing such good oflSces for the propagation 
of the gospel' " From the Right Reverend Andrew Bishop of Ra- 
phoe are descended Viscount Northland, recently created a Brit^ 
tish Peer, by the title of Baron Ranfurly ; as also the Honourable 
and Right Reverend Dr Knox, present Bishop of Limerick ; whose 
primary charge, in as far as an opinion can be formed from the ex- 
tracts given in a literary journal, would, in doctrinal statement and 
fervent piety, seem not unworthy a descendant of the Scottish &- 
mily of Knox. 

The ruins now visible, after so long a period of dUi^idation, 
(1584 is the latest date traceable in the family burying ground) ard 
neither extensive nor striking. At a short distance is a tumulus 
about thirty yards in length by seven in height, composed of earth 
and small stones ; whence several similar ones are seen upon elevated 
sites, used not improbably for conveying signals in those days of vio- 
lence in which every man of higher condition was forced to make his 
house his castle. Not far from the castle stood a Romish chapel. 
The contiguous £airm of Priestoun has brought down the name, pro- 
bably, of the residence of the officiating priest Another chapel, in 
a more central position, has been noticed already, in the account of 
some localities connected with Kilbarchan village; with the allotment 
of funds from the adjoining lands of Pennel and Weitlands, towards 
endowing the Old College of Castlesemple. A third chapel, more 
accessible to the inhabitants on the west and south, was that of 
St Bride's, in the village of Kenmuir ; a village and chapel of 
which every trace has long eluded the keenest observation* 
A solitary tree on the road-side from Castlesemple East Gate, to 
Clochoderick (noticed often,) immediately north of the entry to 
St Bride's Mill, marks the place once graced with a house of 
prayer,* for accommodating a population comparatively inconsi- 
derable. Yet it was of importance enough to find a place in the 
ma|^ of Renfrewshire, published in 1654 by Blaeu, Amsterdam. 
In addition to the £iscination of a form of worship so much 
addressed to the senses and the fancy, it cannot be denied, that 
in an age when the shortest line was always open, in the ab- 
sence of enclosures and fences of every sort, no less than 
three places of worship were easily within reach, — St Bride's and 
Ranfurly chapels being each less than two miles distant from the 



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KILBAROHAN. 367 

chape] or churcJi of the " Hill bounded Vale." From two to three 
miles westward of this village, there is situated on St Bride's burn, 
already noticed as the boundary of this parish and Lochwinnoch, and 
on the direct road thither — ^a stone of uncommoi) dimensions, 
named, as is the farm it stands on, Clochoderick, or Clachna* 
' druid, u e. the Druidical stone. This explanation of the name is 
strongly corroborated from the prevalence of names clearly of 
Celtic origin in this western section of the parish. Its length is 
22 feet, its breadth 17, and its height 12 ; its figure that of an 
irregular oblong square, standing nearly due east and west. It is 
composed of greenstone, the same as that of the neighbouring hills, 
but is totally ^unconnected with the surrounding rock. Utterly 
impracticable, as it must prove, to attempt moving so ponderous a 
mass even in this age of great mechanical resources, one is led to 
think of some other possible account of the matter. Might not, 
then, this singular mass have perhaps constituted a sort of nucleus 
in the midst of soft wacke and amygdaloid, of which some neigh* 
boufing, though somewhat distant, rocks are composed. Peculiarly . 
liable to be acted upon by the atmosphere, and a running stream 
occasionally swelling to a rapid torrent, running close by, these se- 
parated parts might be washed away in the course of ages, the stone, 
in the present state, remaining a monument of their disintegra- 
tion. Farther down the same stream, may be seen other stones of 
the same kind, di¥hich have attracted less notice, but may yet 
•owe their present elevation to the same cause. None of these 
atones are bouldered. What is thus suggested as merely possi* 
ble, may have taken place at a period indefinitely remote ; and 
the circumstance may have been made in some way subservient 
to the purposes of devotion in a very early and rude state of 
society. 

Upon the Barr-HilU to eastwaijl of this village, may be traced 
the remains of a small camp ; by some supposed, from its semicir- 
cular form, to have been of Danish origin : by others, it is believed 
to have been merely a post of observation when the country was 
frequently torn by feuds and intestine commotions. For either pur- 
pose it is, from situation, admirably adapted ; the one side defend- 
ed by lofty precipitous rocks of greenstone, the other guarded against 
any sudden surprise, by a long and steep though regular ascent from 
the plain below; on which side it was, moreover, defended by a ram- 
part of stone, though now not exceeding 3 feet in height. The 

RENFREW. B b 



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368 RENFREWSHIRE. 

best evidence of its former importance is, perhaps, that ij; has not 
been levelled to the ground ages ago. The enclosure may alto- 
gether exceed in extent half an acre, and commands in every di- 
rection a mosj; extensive prospect. Among the columns above- 
mentioned may be remarked, a seat or natural '* armed chair," dig- 
nified by tradition with the title of Wallace's Seat. Its peculiar 
form seems owing to the circumstance of the top of one of the co- 
lumns, which are articulated, having been removed from its origi- 
nal place. 

Families connected with this Parish. — Napier ofMiUiken. This 
very ancient family is now represented by Sir William Milliken 
Napier of Milliken and Napier, Baronet The first of this family 
flourished in the reign of Alexander III. John Napier of Merchiston, 
the twelfth of the family, was author of the admirable work which, in 
1614, disclosed to the world his Logarithms, pronounced by a very 
competent judge, and who was far from being lavish of praise, " the 
noblest offering which philosophy ever presented to science." Bom 
. at Gartness, in Stirlingshire, or, as some allege, at Merchiston, near 
Edinburgh, thirty-two years before that University was founded, 
St Andrews was his Alma Mater ; and supplied those precious seeds 
of knowledge which he continued to cultivate and mature in the 
far-famed seats of learning on the continent of Europe, and among 
the master spirits of the age. As an ofiice-bearer in the church, 
he took a distinguished place in her General Assemblies, in times 
fitted to try men's souls, and task their highest talents. It is mat- 
ter of regret that part of the MSS. of this distinguished man, who 
died in 1617, in his sixty-seventh year, perished unfortunately by a 
fire in Milliken House in 1801.* 

John Napier, his oldest son, was, in 1627, created a Baronet of 
Nova Scotia, and raised to the peerage the same year, by the title 
of Lord Napier. In favour of ^is grandson the patent was renew- 
ed and extended to heirs-female also, and passed, afterwards by a 
sister into the family of Scott of Thirlstane, while the Baronetcy 
reverted to the oldest heir-male. It is incompatible with the ob- 
ject of this brief notice, to trace the connection of the Napiers of 
Merchiston and Culcreuch, and, of course, the steps by which the 
rank of Knight Baronet of Nova Scotia, with the territorial rights 
attached to it, by patent of date 2d May 1627, — the most ancient 

* Sec Lifv of Napier, by Mark Napier, Esq. Advocate. 



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KILBARCHAN. 369 

Baronetcy in this county, and one of the most ancient in Scotland, — 
descended to Sir William Napier, who was, in March 1818, by a 
most respectable jury, served heir-male of Archibald, third Lord 
Napier. 

James Milliken of Millihen^ Esq. who, in 1733, acquired the 
present estate (formerly Johnstone) from the representative of Sir 
Ludovic Houstoun, to whom it had passed in the reign of Charles 
L from the family of Wallace of Johnstoun, did the limits of our 
report admit, should have merited especial and honourable notice : 
Also the late Colonel Robert John Napier, whose career, as an 
officer, commenced in India in very early life ; and who, in 1794, 
braved with his friend, the immortal Abercrombie, the perils and 
privations of that frightful campaign in the north of France and the 
Low Countries; and who also accompanied Sir Ralph to the West 
Indies, encountering the dangers of a hostile climate. At his de- 
mise, in 1808, he was, with a single exception, the senior officer 
of his rank in the army. 

Napier of Blackstoun* — This family is descended from Adam, 
the fifth and youngest son of John Napier of Merchiston. The 
house of Blackstoun, having been unfortunately burnt down, was 
rebuilt about 1730, by the fourth Alexander Napier, who had the 
rank of Captain in the Scots Greys. Major Alexander Napier, 
the sixth of that name, succeeded, in 1801, his father, the fifth 
Alexander Napier. Having, as Lieutenant- Colonel of the 92d, 
served with great distinction for many years, he fell with his gal- 
lant friend. Sir John Moore, at Corunna, 16th January 1809, and 
was succeeded by his brother, William Napier, Esq. the present 
proprietor. 

Cuninghame of Craigends. — This family is lineally descended 
from William Cuninghame, one of the younger sons of Alexander, 
first Earl of Glencairn, raised to. that dignity by James III., and 
who received the lands of Craigends from his father before the 
end of the fifteenth century. One of the family, named Gabriel, 
fell at the battle of Pinkie in 1547. In 1689, the freeholders of 
Renfrewshire gave William Cuninghame of Craigends the highest 
mark of their confidence, by electing him their commissioner to the 
Convention of Estates ; where, and in the several subsequent ses- 
sions of Parliament, he was distinguished by the greatest fidelity 
and honour. The family is at present represented by a gentleman 
of the same name. 



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370 RENFRBWSHIRK. 

It is doubtfiil whether it may be right to introduce in this place 
the name of Dr William Cullen, connected with this parish solely 
by marriage with Anna, only daughter of the Rev. Robert John- 
stoun, who was minister of Kilbarchan from 1700 till 173a This 
circumstance is mentioned by Dr John Thomson, in his memoir of 
Dr Cullen, lately published* It may, perhaps, not be improper to 
add, that the Rev. Mr Johnstoun of Kilbarchan is, through his 
only son. Major Johnstoun, represented by his grand-daughter, 
Lady Gray of Kinfauns. 

Modem Buildings. — The mansion-house of Milliken has been 
built within these few years. It is a handsome building, and 
does honour to the professional talent and taste of the ar- 
chitect 

Blackatoun House is of comparatively modem erection, dating 
rather before the middle of last century ; and is still a most sub- 
stantial and comfortable residence. 

Glentyan House^ although built several years previously by a 
proprietor, who, at that time, felt in no way called to restrict him- 
self in point of expense, was in some sort new when the present 
proprietor entered on possession twenty years ago. To an ele^ 
gant house, in a very commanding situation, there is super- 
added, a collection of valuable paintings, at once select and 
numerous, and chiefly by the great masters. Access is readily 
granted, to this collection, by the kindness of Captain and Mrs 
Stirling. 

The House of Craigendsj — with the exception of an elegant ad- 
dition made within these few years, in the form of a drawing-room, 
and relative accommodations, — though not a very spacious, is yet 
an ancient and massy structure ; of which the old walls, with small 
apartments formed within the wall itself, speak of ages long since 
gone by ; while a large extent of fine, and some of it old, wood, is 
in keeping with the venerable fabric. 

Clippens House^ the property of Hugh Ferrier, Esq. late of 
Porto Rico, is a handsome villa, erected some twenty years 
ago> by his late relative, Peter Cochrane, Esq. M, D., who 
returned from India to his native &rm with a sound constitu- 
tion, and ample fortune, after a residence in India of forty- 
three years, during which he had risen to the head of the me- 
dical board. 

Parochial Registers. — The parish register of proclamations and 

3 



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KILUARCHAN. 371 

baptisms had been partly destroyed or mutilated ; and such as were 
in existence continued in a loose and confused state, till the late ses- 
sion-clerk collected them as far as possible, and transcribed them 
into one volume. The earliest date of the register of baptisms is 
14th June 1700. There are two or three interruptions, one of 
these extending to twenty-six years, and ending 1740, from which 
date it has been regularly kept. It does not, however, exhibit a 
correct account even of the baptisms (births it ought to have been) 
in the parish, as scarcely any of the Dissenters register ; and a con- 
gregation of the Secession was formed soon after its origin, so early 
as 1739. 

The illegitimate births in the parish in the years 1836-7-8 
amount to 7. 

Of the register of proclamations the first date is July 18th 1740. 
In it two blanks occur — one of four years. — From 1769 it is 
complete. The kirk-session minutes commence in 1742. There 
is a chasm from 1760 till 1769; since which date, no blank 
occurs. 

II I. — Population. 

FamUieB. iDdiriduals. 
Former sUte. In 1740 in the Tillage, - 40 X 6 = 200 

By Dr Webster*8 return 1755, there were in the parish 1485 in all. 
By Mr William Semple, a nati^ei 1 1774 were Ifi village, 304 families. 
Continuation of Crawford, ) vis. males, 547 

females, 697 

1184 
Districts landward 1121 

^2305 

By Rev. P. Mai well in 1791, families in village, 391 
do landwiutl, 172 





563 


Males in village. 


762 


Do. landward, 


440 




1202 


Females in village, 
Do. landward. 


822 


482 


Government census under Mr Abbot's bill, 


1304 




2506 


In 1801, total individuals, 


3151 


1811. do. do. 


3653 


1821, do. do. 


• 4213 


'««•. ffS.. 


2296 


2510 




4806 


Families. Persons. 


Of these reside in Kilbarchan village, 


548 . 2338; 


Linwood do. 


169 - 910 ( 


(Kilbarchan half) Bridge of Weir, 


118 - 6063 


Districts landward. 


154 - .957 



Total, 989 4806 

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372 RENFREWSHIRE. 



Occupying inhabited bouses, 946 

Male household servants, - 4 

Female, do. . - 94 

Insane, fatuous, blind, deaf, dumb, 7 

Resident families of independent fortune, - d 

Proprietors of land of L. 50 yearly value, and upwards, 24 

Of whom are non-resident, • » 12 



Character of the People. — Our operatives have, it is believed, 
deservedly the reputation of rather superior skill and expertness ; 
and it is well known, that in verybad times, certain influential per- 
sons in the town of Paisley objected to some manufacturers send- 
ing, what seemed an undue share of their work to this place, with- 
out reserving a feir proportion for their fellow-townsmen. So am- 
ple, at the same time, is the native supply of hands, that there is 
little immigration from the sister isle, or even from the Highlands 
of Scotland ; and accordingly it may be affirmed, we believe, with- 
out contradiction, that this parish affords the only instance of a 
manufacturing village in the western district of a population ex- 
ceeding 2000 souls, with only six Roman Catholics in that num- 
ber. The advantages of education are, by the generality, fully 
appreciated. Not a few who had been deprived of that advan- 
tage are solicitous to secure it for their children ; and in more than 
one instance we have had the satisfaction of seeing the parent 
commence his education, and go on steadily with* his children. 
Even in harder times, every man of good character, and in ordi- ' 
narily steady employment, has, besides his working clothes, a Sun- 
day-dress, and usuadly a suit of black, when invited to attend the 
funeral of a neighbour. Throughout the landward district, the cha- 
racter of the population is highly respectable. In the extensive 
and ancient barony of Auchinames, feued out in 1764, with a 
considerable portion of other estates feued some time earlier, no 
small number of persons, in the south-west and west divisions of 
the parish, occupy their own properties ; while on the estates of 
the larger heritors, the farms are usually of such extent, that the 
capital requisite for their profitable occupancy, demands a class of 
tenantry possessed also of respectable education. And without in- 
sinuating the slightest reflection against those whose connexion has 
been more recent, it may be remarked, that, on the estates of 
Craigends and Blackstoun, — so closely have the interests of 
landlord and tenant been linked together, — the families of the 
Messrs Rodger and Semple have held lands under the respec- 
tive proprietors for nearly three hundred years. Here, as else- 



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KILBARCHAN. 373 

where in our happy country, well-directed and persevering in- 
dustry, with prudence, rarely fails of securing a suitable re- 
turn. The eager longing, both amongst agriculturists and 
handicrafts, for emigration to the western world, as to a modem 
land of promise, has of late years greatly abated, and seems now 
to have died away. Not a few, both of individuals and families, 
have returned. 

IV. — Industry. 
The great preponderance of employment in this parish is that 
of operative manufacturers and handicrafts ; and in this village the 
hand-loom is all but universally employed The unprecedentedly 
flourishing state of this branch of our national industry for some 
years, in the close of the last and beginning of the present cen- 
tury, when in certain times 10s. per day could be earned by a good 
workman, naturally attracted to it almost the entire disposable la- 
bour of such a place as this ; and the rapid and steady increase is 
manifest from the following statement of th« results of actual enu- 
meration in 1791 and 1836. 

1791. Looms in the village, . 383 

Do. in the country, 20 

In a population of 2506,'a6 by Rev. Mr Maxwell's Statistics, 417 

1836. Looms in the village, . 800 

Do. in the country, 30 

In a population of 4806, by Government Census of 1831, 830 

The latter number of hand -looms is given on the authority of the 
person deputed to London by the petitioners for a ^^ Board of 
Trade," in order to protect the operatives against an undue de- 
pression of wages. 

Agriculture^ incomparably the most important branch of our 
natural industry, though employing but a small minority of 
the inhabitants of this parish, is admitted to have made a fair 
progress in this, as compared with other districts in the neigh- 
bourhood. In 1695, a survey was made of the inhabitants of 
this county, with a view to the imposition of a general poll- 
tax. The original lists were in the hands of the late Dr 
Boog, when the following specimens were furnished of a few 
parishes differently circumstanced in respect of mechanical in- 
dustry. 



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374 RENFBEWSHIKB. 



Nwmber ot Farmers ia 
Parishes. 1695. 1795. 



Eaglesham, ... 135 69 

Mearns, ... laB 124 

Neilston, (Knockmade and Shatterffals included,) 178 153 

Catbcart, . . . 41 29 

Kilbarchan, . . 195 104 

Lochwinnocb, ... 186 148 

Inchinnan^ . . . 54 30 

Erskine . . 80 70 

In the present year (1836,) the number of formers in Ejlbarchan 
is 90. 

Rent of Land. — The rent of arable land varies, according to the 
quality of the soil and other local circumstances, from L. 4 to L. 1, 
or less, per acre. 

Wages, — The wages of able and industrious agricultural labour* 
ers are from 10s. to 12s. per week. Farm-servants receive from 
L. 9 to L. 6 per half-year, with board ; females from L. 3, 10s. to 
L. 5, according to circumstances. The latter rate of wages is given 
only to experienced dairy-maids, or to those who are to have a 
charge in that department. 

Live-Stock. — The cattle in this parish are mostly of the Ayr- 
shire breed. They are generally of a brown colour with spots. 
Those are preferred that have small heads and ears, with slender 
necks and horns. They weigh, in general, from four to five cwt 
A considerable proportion of their produce is carried to the 
neighbouring towns and villages in the shape of milk, butter, and 
churned- milk. The system is now generally approved of keeping 
the cattle in the house during winter, with the exception of two 
or three hours in the forenoon ; whence results the double ad- 
vantage of their dung being regularly added to the stock of 
matiure; and that the fields escape being poached with their 
feet in the wet season. They are fed on chopped straw» 
stewed with turnips, potatoes, and chaff; to which a portion 
of mill-dust, bran, or bean meal is frequently added. Mangel- 
wurzel is beginning to be cultivated more commonly for this 
purpose. The draught horses are generally of the Clydesdale 
breed. 

Farm-SteadingSi Fences^ LeaseSy 4'<?.— Those farm-steadings 
which have been erected within the last thirty or forty years, (and 
this includes a considerable proportion,) are generally constructed 
in the form of three sides of a square, having a court in the mid- 
dle. With the exception of some ten or twelve in the vicinity> 



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KILBARCHAN. 375 

or in view of the proprietor's mansion-house, and where the farms 
to which they belong are larger, they are usually one storey in 
height ; though not unfrequently with what are sometimes called 
storm windows, L e. windows set upright in the roof, — an arrange* 
ment which admits of comfortable apartments in the upper division 
of them. They are generally slated. The enclosures vary in ex- 
tent from three or four, to seven, eight, or ten acres ; and are, for 
the most part, well fenced. In the lower districts of the parish, 
there are thorn hedges, ditches, or sunk fences, faced with stone ; 
and a thorn hedge either planted along the top, or growing out from 
the face of the stone building, but pretty near the top, — which is 
conducive to keeping them clear. The fences in the upper dis- 
trict are usually a dry stone dike, built double and coped with turf« 
These make a sufficient fence from the day they are erected ; but 
come by and by to require repairs The thorn hedge comes for- 
ward slowly, but if duly cared for and protected from injury when 
young, it continues a substantial fence, and turns even biped strag- 
glers. 

The usual duration of leases in this parish is nineteen years. 
The reason for fixing on that precise number of years is not very 
obvious ; unless on the supposition, that a cycle of that extent may 
bring round a similar course of seasons. A farmer in the neigh- 
bourhood, remarked to me, that, exactly twenty years ago, in 
1816, he entered on a new lease, as he did again in a different 
&rm last year, and in both instances felt, himself in the very 
same situation in regard to the seasons, t. e, in both years, he 
finished the potato harvest before he was able to make out the 
corn harvest In the olden time, it was not unusual to grant leases for 
three nineteen years. Before the period when the &rming interest 
began to be so far aware of their own interest, as to commence in 
good earnest substantial improvements, and so better their own 
circumstances, there was a sort of indifference, it is said, as to the 
occupancy of land, which made the proprietor rather solicitous to 
retain a tenant, than otherwise. An instance occurs to recollec* 
tion, of the kirk-session being called to account for having 
granted a lease for three nineteen years, of a farm of which 
they are administrators for behoof of the poor, an enter- 
prising tacksman enriching himself in consequence ; but the 
Court of Session found, that the transaction had been quite 
in the usual mode in which prudent men acted in managing 



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376 RENFREWSHIRE. 

their private affairs ; and held them free from all challenge on 
that subject 

Since the date of the former Statistical Account in 1794, one 
of the, most striking improvements within this parish has been un- 
doubtedly the reclaiming by William Napier, Esq. of Blackstoun, 
of some seventy acres, by floating away the peat moss from the 
surface, and converting into land fit for any crop. While the cli- 
mate is unquestionably ameliorated by laying dry the closely ad- 
joining land, every acre so acquired is purchased at a very reduced 
price, (say from L. 20 to L. 25, or even L. 30,) and that, too, in a 
very advantageous locality. 

Quarries, — There are in this parish quarries both of freestone 
and whinstone. The latter is found in great abundance, and 
used chiefly as metal for the construction and repairing of 
roads. It is not unfrequently used, besides, for building; the 
walls formed of such materials being quite impervious to the 
beating storm. For this purpose, however, the freestone b 
principally employed, admitting, as it does, of being more easily 
dressed. 

Domestic Manufactures. — The first of any importance was that 
of strong linen ; for which a jGactory was built in the year 1739. 
Three years after, Mr A. Speirs made trial of fine febrics, lawns, 
cambrics, &c. which he carried to the Dublin market, and dispos- 
ed of to great advantage. This succeeded so well as to become 
a steady trade for a long period. With bleachfields for whitening 
their goods, and preparing them for market, — an object for which 
the pure stream that sweeps through the vale on which the village 
stands, is peculiarly well adapted, the trade continued to flourish, 
till, by pushing it to an extreme, the proprietors became involved 
in embarrassments, the issue of which was the breaking up of their 
establishments in Dublin ; and for a considerable length of time, 
the fabrics manufactured here have been almost exclusively on ac^ 
count of houses in Glasgow and Paisley. Silk fabrics are now chiefly 
made, although there is produced a considerable proportion of fine 
cotton goods. A candle-work, which had once flourished here, and 
a brewery, have been long discontinued. 

A printfield on Locher, a mile to northward, has existed from forty 
to fifty years, which employed formerly from twenty*four to thirty 
tables, with the usual complement of copper-plate engravers, block* 
cutters, bleachers, &c. to prepare the cloth and finish it afterwards. 



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KrLBARCHAN. 377 

The scale has been reduced nearly 0De-half» for some time past 
The water supplied from the Locher, it is alleged, is very well 
adapted to the purposes for which it is required by the company. 
In its more palmy and flourishing days, this work, or rather those 
of the same description, were remarkable for the yiolent and deter- 
mined strikes on the part of the workmen/ 

Cotton Mills. — L The mill in this parish belonging to Messrs 
John and Joseph Findlay, is in length 120 feet over walls, and 32 
in breadth ; six stories high, each 9 feet,^-containing some 7000 
spindles. The hands employed, are, 16 spinners, with 2 piecers to 
each ; 25 card-room workers, 1 spinning master and 2 under card- 
ing-masters, 1 clerk, and 2 mechanics; also, out of doors, 34 
reelers and 22 waste-pickers, the latter mostly aged persons. 
Their wages amount to L. 75 per fortnight : they are paid on 



2. The mill, belonging to the Lin wood Company, had been built 
originally by another proprietary in 1792, and was burnt dovm in 
1802. In 1805, it was rebuilt by the present company. Its 
dimensions are as follows: — Main part, length within walls, 170 
feet; width, 30; height, 61. West wing, length, 100 feet; width, 
34; height, 41. East wing, length, 80 feet; width, 36^; height, 
30. 

Moving power Water-wheel iron overshot, diameter, 18 feet ; breadth, 14 feet. 

Do. wooden undershot, 14 do. 20 do. 

Horse power, - - - 48 

Steam engine, - - . - 20 

Total, 68 horse power. 
Number of spindles, 28,000. 

Hands employed in Linwood mill, 400. Pay every Saturday ; 
amount, L. 190. Average rate of wages; 80 workers, from 16s. 
to 30s. per week; 200 workers, from Os. to 13s. per week; 120 
workers, from 3s. to 6s. per week. 

There is among the workers a Benefit Society from year to 
year ; pay 3d. weekly ; 6s. received per week when walking about, 
unfit for work; and 8s. when confined to bed. 

3. Cotton-mill at Barbush, parish of Kilbarchan, belonging to 
Messrs John S. and William Napier, Milliken. Length, includ- 
ing stair, 118 feet ; width, at an average, 38 feet. Number of 
spindles, 13,200. Employs about 135 persons. 

4. Mr Henderson's mill, Linwood. Length, 67 feet; breadth. 



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378 RENFREWSHIRE. 

44 over walls. Contains about 4000 spindles, and is driven by an 
engine of sixteen horse power. Employs about 40 hands. 
V. — Parochiax Economy. 

Villages. — This parish contains three villages. \sty Kilbarchan, 
named the Kirkton in Blaeu's Atlas, published in 1654 at Amster* 
dam ; and of which a very considerable part has been built, in the 
memory of some persons now living. 2d and dJ, Linwood and 
Bridge of Weir villages are of recent erection ; the one wholly in 
this parish, the other (Bridge of Weir,) with an equal population 
on each side of the Gryfe, belonging, half to the united parishes 
of Houstoun and Killellan. Strictly speaking, however. Bridge of 
Weir is a designation of land only on the Kilbarchan side. Both 
these villages owe their existence to the establishment of cotton 
factories in the respective localities. 

MarkeUTaiony Means of Communication^ Sfc. — Paisley, dis- 
tant five miles and a half, is our nearest market-town ; but 
many articles of use, in daily demand, may be purchased in re- 
spectable shops here, as well as in Johnstone, distant one mile 
and a half to eastward. There is no post-office nearer than 
Johnstone. Most roads in the parish are turnpike, and in very 
good condition. 

No public conveyance passes along any of pur roads ; but by the 
light passage boats, neatly fitted up and moving at the rate of eight 
miles per hour, there is access from Johnstone to Paisley and 
Glasgow, eight times a day. Coaches to and from Lochwinnoch, 
Beith, Ardrossan, and Glasgow, pass about a mile south of this 
village. Acts of Parliament have been obtained for two lines of 
railway ; one from Greenock to Paisley and Glasgow, passing 
through the east part of this parish ; and a branch from this vil- 
lage will comnuinicate with the Glasgow, Paisley, and Ayr line, 
which passes along the south side of the Cart, and within a mile 
of the village. 

Ecclesiastical Statc^-Of this parochial church, prior to the Re- 
formation, the most ancient record to which I have had access, 
bears, that '^ Thomas Crauford of Auchinames mortified the lands 
of Lyndnocht and Glenlear, with their pertinents, and an annuity 
of three merks out of his lands of Auchinames, for the mainte- 
nance of a chaplain to celebrate Divine service at the altar of the 
Virgin Mary, in the kirk of Kilbarchan, for the health of his soul 
and of his wife, and for the soul of Sir Reginald Crauford, his 



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KILBARCHAN. 379 

grandfather ; as also for the souls of his father and his mother. 
Which mortification is confirmed by King Robert III. in the year 
1401."* 

The present parish church was built, or rather rebuilt, in 1724, 
and is still in a tolerable state of repair. It stands in the village, 
a site, on the whole, the most eligible for the great body of the pa« 
rishioners, three miles from the west, and four from the eastern ex- 
tremity. Its figure is that of a St George's cross, the body of the 
church standing east and west ; and there is an aisle, on the north, 
which has belonged to the family of Craigends, and was not even 
taken down when the rest of the church was built anew, at the date 
above noted. The wing on the south belongs to the family of Mil- 
liken. Below, is a cemetery or repository for the remains of indi- 
viduals of that family. 

The church is seated for about 620, and is evidently quite in- 
adequate for the present population. It might, no doubt, accom-* 
modate the landward population, for whom alone it was built, and 
to whom exclusively it is allotted ; and there are properly no sittings 
disposable but those in the area for the communion tables ; and 
which, by the terms of the original minute of the division of the 
church, are declared to be for strangers and for the poor. The 
sittings thus declared free amount to about 50 in all. 

The manse was built in 1811, and is in good repair. It stands 
on a gently rising ground, about a furlong from the nearest part of 
the village, and fully half a*-mile from the church. The glebe is 
above the usual size, extending to rather more than 15 acres : it 
was let for several years at a rent of L. 30 per annum. 

The stipend having, for a considerable period, been very much 
under the average of that of all the parishes around, the Court, 
with scarcely any opposition from any of the heritors, augmented 
it to 18 chalders of meal and barley equally, and L. 10 for commu- 
nion elements. 

There are three Dissenting congregations. A chapel in the 
village, built in 1786, and belonging to the Relief body, may ac- 
commodate at least 900 persons, or thereby. The greater part of 
those attending it are from Kilbarchan village, where 314 sittings 
are stated, on authority, to have been let in 1835, and probably 
an equal number from other quarters ; many are from other villages 

* CarU penes P. Fleming de Barocban, quoted in Crauford's History of Renfrew- 
shire. 



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380 RENFIIEWSHIRE. 

in the parish, or beyond the bounds ; L. 120 per annum, with a 
house and garden, is understood to be the provision made for the 
support of the minister. 

The second chapel is situated at Bridge of Weir, in connexion 
with the original Associate Burgher Synod. It was removed thither 
nearly twenty years ago, from Bruntchelt or Bumtshields, where 
that respectable body of Dissenters had their earliest settlement, to 
the west of Glasgow, soon after the beginning of the Secession. 
The services of a minister are imperatively called for, on account 
of the increasing population at that busy seat of the cotton manu* 
factures, as the population of the whole village is little less at this 
date than 1400. The provision for the minister at this station is 
believed not to exceed L. 100, including house and garden. 

In Kilbarchan village, a small meeting of Baptists has existed for 
many years. Their place of assembling may accommodate 60 per- 
sons or thereby. 

The congregation of the Original Burgher church is understood 
not to be so very numerous as the privileges which the people en- 
joy in consequence of the settlement of a minister there, might 
have led one to hope. 

In the parish church, as well as in the Relief congregation, 
public worship is well attended. In the former, the number on 
the communion roll is 320. 

Educatioru — The number of public schools in this parish is 7. 
The teacher of one is connected with the Relief congregation ; and 
a female teacher, who conducts a sort of charity school, and part- 
ly one of industry for girls, has temporarily withdrawn from at- 
tendance at church ; but the other five teachers are all in com- 
munion with the church. One of the private teachers, as well as 
the parish schoolmaster, has qualified to Government, and others 
are quite ready to do so when an opportunity is afforded them. 
The parish teacher and two of the private teachers have had a 
clajssical education, by at least two sessions of attendance at the 
University of Glasgow. A fourth, though never at college, has 
made very considerable acquisitions in classical literature. Latin 
and Greek, as well as French, are taught in the parochial school, 
as occasionally required. Most of those who, for the last ten or 
twenty years, have been successful teachers in our private schools, 
have received their own education there. The whole native po- 
pulation appear alive to the importance of tuition at school The 
necessity of being able to write also is strongly impressed on them, 



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KILBAUCHAN. 381 

by a constant intercourse of all ages and both sexes, with the 
warehouses whence work is to be obtained*. The parish teacher's 
salary is the maximum. 

At Linwood, there is a school that has long been taught with 
eminent success, — ^and it is gratifying to add, that measures are in 
progress for securing the means of religious worship, as well as 
the opportunity of a sound education, to the people resident in 
this remote district of the parish. 

Friendly Societies. — There are at present in operation in Kil- 

barchan the following friendly societies : 

1765. Kilbarchan General Society, No. of membera unknown, funds about L. 390 

1784. Free Masons* Society, do. 300 

1802. Kilbarchan Friendly Anociatioii, 92 638 

1803. Volunteer Society, ... 39 265 
1806. Friendly Society, ... 71 125 
1808. KUbarchan Union Friendly Society 76 118 
1813. Friendly, ... 128 800 
1815. Friendly, ... 65 225 

Amount of funds, L. 2801 
And an Association for Mutual Insurance against Fire, established 1814, num- 
ber of memben 100, funds about .... L.520 

L.^ 
Poor and Parochial Funds. — As this must, at all times, consti- 
tute a deeply interesting object of statistical enquiry, it is with re- 
gret we have to say, that there is hut little room left for entering 
minutely into this topic A keen spirit of privateering was excited 
in this place during the ill-fated, though protracted war with our 
American colonies ; and the disastrous issue of that enterprize, in 
addition to other circumstances, left so many families destitute, that 
the ordinary funds which here, as elsewhere, had been gradually on 
the increase, were speedily exhausted by unexpected demands ; and 
the only resource left was to resort to assessment ; which accord- 
ingly was resorted to first in 1786, and has ever since continued to 
be the ordinary means of providing for the demands and necessities 
of the poor. The following is a state of the expenditure during 
the last half century^ 

Year. £xpenditure. Year. Expenditure. 

PopoLATioii in 1774.2805. 1793, L. 147 11 9 

1785, L. 114 2 2 1794, 121 7 7 

1786, 149 4 1 1795, 114 8 10^ 

1787, 124 15 2 1796, 127 10 5^ 

1788, 127 15 6 1797, 127 10 2^ 

1789, 119 7 6 1798, 127 16 8 . 

1790, 144 7 7i 1799, 172 16 8 
PopuLATiOK in 1791— 2506. 1800, 144 5 

1791, 129 17 10^ PopoLxnov in 1801—3151. 

1792, 190 6 5i 1801, 150 2 9 



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382 HENFREWSHIRK. 



Year. Expenditure. 




1802, L. 125 


7 




1803, 


178 16 


3 




1804, 


182 17 11 




1805, 


171 10 ir 




1806, 


223 14 10 




1807, 


222 4 


2 




1808, 


255 4 


8 




1809, 


259 4 


4* 




1810, 


256 8 


4 


Average No. of pau- 


PopuLATioK in 1811, 


pers 1806 10 1810, 


3563. 






both inclusive, 58i^. 


1811, 


221 19 


8 




1812,) 
1813, J 


435 12 


2 


j Expenditure of 2 
1 years conjoined. 


1814, 


288 11 


11 


Av. 1811-1815, 5611 


1815, 


240 


7 




1816, 


259 15 11 




1817, 


240 16 


5 





Year. Expenditure. 

1818, L.360 16 6). , 

1819, say 360 16 6 5* 

1820, 263 7 6 Av. 1816-1820, 61* 
Population in 1821—4213. 

1821, 



299 1 


^ 




336 3 


9 




359 15 


6iAv. 1821-1825, 54i 


337 12 


3 




368 10 


7 




325 2 


4 




346 5 11 




316 17 


Av. 


1826-1830, 61f 


288 


H 




289 11 








1823, 
1824, 
1825, 
1826, 
1827, 
1828, 
1829, 
1830, 
WuLATiON in 1831—4806. 
1831, 288 11 lUAv. 1831-1834,794 
1832,* 301 10 4^ 

1833, 295 11 10^ 

1834, 343 10 4 

The expenditure of 1835-6 would have been added, but cannot 
be ascertained till the issue of a law-suit now pending. The ex- 
pense of mana«;ement has hitherto been little more than L. 10 
paid to the collector and treasurer, and L. 5 additional to the 
session-clerk, who acts as clerk to the overseers, — a very moderate 
remuneration indeed. 

* This year cholera and dreadful stagnation prevailed, &o. for some months. 

December 1838. 



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PARISH OF EAGLESHAM. 

PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. WILLIAM COLVILLE, MINISTER * 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Nam«.— The name of this parish is a compound of the Celtic 
eagles^ a church, and the Saxon hanij which signifies a hamlet or 
village. In an act, James VI. 1609, for "uniting certain kirkis 
in Annandail," we have the " kirkis of Hoddome, Eaglischame^ and 
Lus," designed as forming one parish ; the place of the kirk to 
be at Hoddom. There are also several other places in Scotland 
With the Celtic appellation Eaglis ; as Eaglis-carno, foimerly be* 
longing to Lord Spynie, and Eaglis-magirdel in Aberdeenshire. 
The popular voice gives a different version of the origin of the 
name. In traditionary lore, it is asserted that before the village - 
was built, which gives name to this parish, there were several 
woods in it, particularly one of great extent on the banks of the 
river, an English mile south of the village. This wood and the 
rocks in the neighbourhood were much frequented by eagles ; and 
as they often perched on the holm, or low ground upon which the 
viDage was Afterwards built, it was hence called Eaglesholm, or 
Eaglesham. This statement is utterly unfounded, and evident- 
ly proceeds on a vulgar mistake. The golden eagle (Aquila 
cIiryscBtoSjJ named by the Gael Solair dhubh^ is the only indivi- 
dual of the genuine eagle species that inhabits these isles, and its 
places of resort are not lowland woods, but remote mountainous 
districts. 

Boundaries and Extent. — The parish of Eaglesham is nearly a 
square, being about 6 miles in a direction from north to south, and 
54 miles from east to west It is bounded on the east by the 
White Cart, which separates it from the parishes of East KiU 
bride and Carmunnock; on the north, by Mearns or Earn water, 
which separate it from Mearns and the lands of Humbie ; on the 



* Drnwn up by the Rev. WilKam Patrick, Hamilton. 
RENFREW. ec 



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384 BENFBBWSHIRE. 

west, by the parish of Fenwick; and on the south, by the parish 
of Loudon. 

It is situated in the south-east corner of the county of Renfrew, 
and contains about 28 square miles, and 15,508 standard imperial 
acres. The whole district is somewhat elevated. In approaching 
it from the north or by the road from Glasgow, a high blue ridge 
is seen running nearly east and west, but the true axis of elevation 
is nearly north-west and south-east, which gives the whole district 
a flexure or gentle slope to the north-east. The highest hills in 
the parish are Balagich, Dunwan, Mires, and Blackwood, which 
vary in height from 1000 to 1200 feet. The highest part of the 
village is about 800 feet above the sea level ; the best arable lands 
from 500 to 800. With the exception of Misty Law in Lochwin- 
noch, the above are the highest hills in the county. 

Meteorology. — The above elevations indicate a climate of consi- 
derable severity, especially in the wmter months, in a latitude so 
high as that of Scotland. The prevalence of peat mosses, of the 
worst and most irreclaimable description, also serves to deteriorate 
the naturally inclement atmosphere, and to render it more inhospi- 
table. In the summer season, however, Eaglesham forms a de- 
lightful place of residence ; and in some of the lower grounds, and 
near the town, and on the banks of the principal streams, both the 
soil and climate are equal to any in the county for salubrity, 
fertility, and health. The piece of ground on which the village is 
built is full of springs, and yields abundance of the best of water. 
But from the same cause the site of the houses is cold and damp, 
where pains are not taken to get rid of the superfluous moisture. 
A great deal of rain falls in the course of the year, — on an ave- 
' rage 29.65 inches,— -and from the exposed position of the parish 
the winds are very damp and cold. Frosts often set in early in 
autumn and continue late in spring. The ploughing season usu- 
ally begins about the middle of March, and the seed is commonly 
sown about the second week of April. The prevailing distempers 
are such as arise out of the peculiarities of soil and climate, such 
as influenza, rheumatism, consumptien, && Fevers are not com- 
mon, and measles are generally mild. Small-pox has returned 
vrith fearful frequency, but with abated symptoms, as in other 
places. The crisis is generally observed to take place a day or 
two earlier than in the ancient and more vindent forms of the dis- 
ease. The present disease is generally if not always much easier, 
and seldom proves fatal. The Kilpatrick hills are here universal- 



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EAGLESHAM. 385 

ly regarded as formiog one of the moststnkiDg indices of the wea- 
ther. When] they appear near, a change is expected, when re« 
mote the weather is always dry. 

Hydrography. — This parish, with the parishes of Meams and 
Neilston, contains the chief water heads of the rivulets which sup- 
ply the Cart, the great trough of the lower parts of Renfrewshire 
near Paisley. The Cart itself rises . in the moors of Eaglesham 
and East Kilbride, and is supplied by five or six small tributaries 
running into it, all pursuing a north-east direction. The course of 
the Cart is nearly north, till it arrives at Cathcart and Langside, 
where it pursues a westerly course towards Paisley, and at that 
town it again takes a direction directly north, before losing itself 
in the Clyde. This is termed the White Cart. The Black Cart 
comes from the west of the county, and joins the White Cart at 
Inchinnan Bridge, shortly before it joins the Clyde. The Earn- 
water is a considerable stream on the north-west of the parish, 
falling into the Cart at a house termed St Helena ; as it stands on 
a sort of island formed by the junction of the two waters, and a 
mill lead that joins them together. The Kevoch bum, near the 
centre of the parish, is also a considerable stream. The parish 
abounds everywhere in excellent springs. Two of these are mine- 
raL One at Munzie hill, on the south side of the parish, is slight- 
ly laxative ; the other, at Bonninton, on the north side, has long 
been famous for the cure of muir-ill in cattle. The most striking 
feature in the hydn^raphy of this parish is the great extent of 
ground covered by reservoirs for the supply of the mills at Eagles- 
ham, Busby, Fenwick, &c Upwards of 237 acres are thus perma- 
nently inundated. There are no less than three lochs at Picket 
Law; a fourth on the lands of Dunwan, Greenfield, Braehead, 
and Holehall ; a fifth on the lands of Dunwan, Blackwood, and 
Blackwood Hill ; and a sixth at Binend. The extent of ground 
covered by each is as follows : 

Acres. Roods. FaUf. 

1. Picket Law md Kirkton reservoirs, 26 3 6 

2. Dunwan, Greenfield, &c. reservoir, 64 1 d6 
8. Dunwan, Blackwood, &c. reservoir, 06 81 
4. Binend Loch, . . 50 7 

Total, 287 2 

These measurements do not contain the portion belonging to 
the Marquis of Hastings. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — This parish constitutes a section of 
that great body of trap or greenstone, which extends through a 
large portion of the county of Ayr, or from near Ardrossan on the 



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386 RENFREWSHIRE. 

south, to Kempoch Point on the north. On the west it encroaches 
on the sea only at three points, viz. Largs, the Clock Lighthouse, 
and Kempoch Point. It is nearly cut off by the coal formations 
at Castle Semple, and again between Head of Side and Neilston ; 
after which it extends into the Meams and Eaglesham, running 
eastward into the county of Lanark, and embracing a large portion 
of the parishes of Carmunnock, f^t Kilbride, and Avondale. 
The trap is mostly of that species termed in the west of Scotland 
rotten-whin. In every quarter of the parish, however, there are 
quarries of a fine strong greenstone. About the village of Eagles- 
ham, the trap is associated in some places with porphyritic clay- 
stone of considerable thickness. In a quarry by the roadside lead- 
ing to Glasgow, a greenstone rock of a crag-like form, once attain- 
ed a considerable elevation, but it is now almost entirely cut away. 
It is very curious for the number of extraneous minerals which it 
contains, such as jasper, calcedony, blue quartz, calcareous spar, 
and compact felspar ; the latter often beautifully crystallized. The 
trap rocks form the highest lands, not of this parish only, but also 
of the neighbouring parishes. On the east side of the parish a 
sort of tufaceous conglomerate, of volcanic origin, termed by Ure 
the Osmond stone, occurs in great rocky masses. It may be seen 
to great advantage at Craigend, on the Cart, at a waterfall six or 
eight feet high. The water here runs entirely upon it. It is of 
a curious grayish-greenish colour, and sometimes contains rolled 
masses of porphyritic greenstone. Between the waterfall and Mill- 
house the Osmond fines off, and nothing but a fine-grained basal- 
tic trap, much water-worn, is to be seen in the bed of the Cart. 
At Millhouse the Osmond is again of great thickness, and forms 
a coarse conglomerate. The Torburn and Thriepland burn join at 
Millhouse dam, after which their combined waters form the White 
Cart A singular dike of trap runs through the Osmond stone a 
little below the Mill ; its direction is east and south-west. The 
Osmond forms great precipices half a-mile below Millhouse, and 
at Craigenfeich it attains a perpendicular height of thirty or forty 
feet. The rocks are generally hardest on the surface, and softer 
below. They are for the most part perfectly amorphous, but oc- 
casionally they seem to be imperfectly stratified, and even assume 
a regular dip. In this district they lie above a blue basalt to the 
south, and on compact limestone to the north. The pores and 
crevices are, in some specimens, filled with matter, and in others 
with calcareous spar, and sometimes with zeolite. In some in- 



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EAGLESHAM. 387 

•Stances they are also filled with a white steatite, and in the parish 
of Eaglesham, in particular, a great quantity of heavy spar is inter- 
spersed in it This mineral occurs about Balagich-hill, two miles 
west of the village. It shines in the dark after having been whitened 
in the fire. Resides barytes, the presence of talcose earth, or a 
kind of soapstone, is also another peculiar feature in the structure 
of the Osmond stone. This talc is soft and soapy, and may be 
cut into any shape. With borax and soda it melts into a green- 
ish slag. Besides these there is also found zeolite, and also sili- 
ceous and calcareous earths in the form of spars. These are 
all imbedded in the Osmond stone, with the exception of the 
barytes, which in many instances has large masses of the Osmond 
contained or isolated in it. The Osmond being of a volcanic na- 
ture stands a great heat without being either fused or broken. On 
this account it was in former times in great request for the soles 
of bakers' ovens, and for making up fire-places in kitchens, and 
where a constant heat is required. All the stones, however, not 
being of equal density, have not the same capacity for receiving 
and retaining heat. On this account the stone ought to be very care- 
fully selected, for if precautionary measures are not thus adopt- 
ed, some of the bread will be burned before the rest is half-pre- 
pared. 

A little below Craigenfeich, at Allerton farm, limestone is seen in 
the bed of the Cart, and seems to dip in below the Osmond stone 
at an angle of 40^ west, or in by the village of Eaglesham. A 
little below a band of ironstone crosses the water, which dips about 
8° north. At Allerton the lime in many places is lying almost on 
its edge, indicating an extensive trouble. After disappearing for 
some time it appears again a quarter of a mile above Nethercraig 
bridge. A little below the bridge, it dips at an angle of 10° south. 
There is also in the same locality a bed of pipe-clay (ArgiUa 
Uucargilla) with a similar di]). The whin comes in again at Hole, 
and at the bridge on the road between Eaglesham and East Kil- 
bride. With these exceptions, which are entirely on the eastern 
limits of the parish, the whole range of it may be said to be com- 
posed of alternations of claystone, greenstone, and wacke. In the 
same associated group, but not in this parish, iron and manganese 
are found in very small proportions, and also copper ore in a green- 
stone dike at Kaime. Beautiful specimens of red foliated stilbite, 
needlestone, chabasite, analcime, and other minerals of the same 



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388 RENFREWSHIRE, 

family! are frequently found in the whin rocks on the Cart. These 
rocks are entirely surrounded by the coal formations except to the 
west, where they come in contact with the old red sandstone, near 
the sea shore. 

Although the soil of the district reposes entirely on trap, yet it 
yaries considerably, and is far from being of equal quality. The 
soil produced by trap rocks is generally reckoned secondary only to 
alluvium ; but unfortunately that soil in this parish, is only tp be 
found in the more elevated districts, where the trap has been up- 
heaved from the action of fire, and therefore attains an elevation 
Tery unfavourable to cultivation in a northern climate. Indeed, 
these igneous effusions are seldom less than 500 or 600 feet above 
the level of the sea, and of course we seldom have an opportunity 
in this country of trying the virtues of a trap soil in a truly favour- 
able situation, or under the most advantageous circumstances. 
Much of it occupies the summits or bleak sloping acclivities of 
hilly ranges, such as Balagich, Dunwan, Mires, and Blackwood ; 
and others, although more favourably situated, are still too high for 
cultivation. These heights, by the operation of natural laws, draw 
clouds and moisture, and are exposed to every surly blast that 
blows. These, and such like causes, with all their necessary dis- 
advantages, are felt to operate more or less throughout the greater 
part of the parish. The higher or western parts consist chiefly of 
dry heath, or of deep peat mosses, with a number of fine greeii 
hills, mixed with them, with a great deal of natural meadow every 
where interspersed. The tenants in this part of the parish plough 
little. Their great dependence is on their sheep, and the rearing of 
cattle. The lower part of the parish, lying along the banks of the 
Cart, and to the west of the river, is a light soil, above a rotten 
whinstone rock, and, when allowed to rest four years, produces two 
excellent crops of com, with a very light manure of lime or dung. 
As the trap rocks where greenstone abounds decompose slowly, the 
soil in many places is far too shallow for agricultural purposes. 
These whin rocks are every where full of cracks or fissures, and 
send out waters and copious springs in all directions. The conse- 
quence is, that bogs and deep mosses abound in all places adapted 
for the reception and detention of water; and plants, favourable for 
the growth of peat-mosses, flourish in such localities with much 
luxuriance. In many of these bogs and mosses the larger plants 
have been absorbed in the destructive profusion of the smaller, as 



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EAGLESHAM. 389 

in some climales the larger animals become the prey of insects. 
The prevailing trees are the remains of the birch, hazel, and wil- 
low, and, occasionally, of the oak. The roots and stumps are 
most common, and have the appearance of yet remaining where 
they grew. 

Zoology. — The zoology of the district is of course much the 
same as in neighbouring places ; but a few peculiaritiq^ may be 
mentioned. The Mustda ermina^ or common ermine, often at- 
tains a great size in this parish and neighbourhood. I have seen 
a specimen from Balagich, where the body was upwards of twelve 
inches long. It had on its winten clothing, and is of a pure white^ 
except the tip of the tail, which is blacL The Mustela putorivs 
is also in some places very destructive among poultry. The squir- 
rel, common enough in the neighbourhood, has not yet reached 
this locality. The common hare (Lepus timidus) is in this dis- 
trict a remarkably swift powerful animal, and often puts the best 
bone and muscle of the Clydesdale Ck>ursing-Club to the full 
stretch. The parish of Eaglesham is a fiivourite coursing ground to 
the Earl of Eglinton, Lord of the Manor, the Marquis of Douglas, 
and the other spirited and enterprising members of that far-famed 
club. To those who take delight in these sports, the Eaglesham 
hare is an object worthy of pursuit, in comparison of the more luxu- 
riant and less powerful animals on the lower grounds, which are ge- 
nerally overtaken by the unerring flight of their too savage pursuers 
before they have measured half the distance. The water-vole 
{Arvicola aquaticus)^ and the (Sorex fodiens), or water-shrew, are 
very common by the banks of the reservoirs. There are abund- 
ance of grouse, (Lagopus Scoticus), in the higher parts of the pa- 
rish. I have seen very fine specimens of the peregrine falcon 
(Fako peregrinus), killed here, and on Meams Moor. The hob- 
by, the kestril, and the merlin, are also not uncommon. The 
Circus cganeug, or hen-harrier, is very destructive in some places 
to game and poultry, but the hawk kind are very much thinned by 
gamekeepers. Great flights of the red-wing and fieldfare occur 
in winter. They have been seen as late as the latter end of April. 
The Podiceps rubicollisf or red-necked grebe, and the P. auritus 
or eared grebe, have been both shot in this parish. The teal and 
various species of aquatic birds are found on the reservoirs. Of 
reptiles, the Lacerta agiliSf or nimble lizard, and the Vipera covh' 
mtmis, are often seen in the moors. The latter of these bit a 
pointer dog on the tongue, which soon caused his death. In the 



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^390 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Jakes that species of trout Salmo savelintu or torgoch, occurs. The 
Lady Anne trout of the Clyde and Avon, near Hamilton, were ori- 
ginally brought by Anne Duchess of Hamilton from a loch in 
this neighbourhood. They are of the above species. Various 
molluscous animals occur, but, as these are also common in neigh- 
bouring parishes, it is unnecessary here to record them. 

Botany. — The parish produces no species of plants so rareas to re- 
quire to be noticed, except in a very cursory manner. The Drosera 
rotundifolia is not uncommon in the peat-mosses. In the Cart 
the Conferva rivularisjjbntinalisf et geUxtinosa are found in several 
places, also Fontinalis antipyretica et minor. Carex maritima is 
common on the moors, and a great many species are found by the 
marshes and the reservoirs. This parish is almost entirely a pas- 
toral country, and therefore contains few plantations in proportion 
to its extent of surface. The following will give some idea of the 
chief groups of planting:— 





Acres. 


Roods. 


Falls. 


Town lands of Eaglesham, 


8 


2 


26 


Kirkton lands. 


2 


8 


21 


Picket Law, 


11 


8 





South Floors and Laigh Tofts, 


1 


1 


8 



19 1 15 

The plantations are chiefly of fir of the common sorts, and are 
generally distributed in clumps on knolls not accessible to the 
plough. This parish might be laid out very profitably with belts 
of plantations. The first step to be taken would be to have nur- 
series either on part of the same land to be planted, or as near to 
the place as possible, and also upon the same sort of soil. People 
complain of trees not thriving in high climates ; but this frequent- 
ly arises from bringing the seed or young trees from more genial 
to less genial situations, and the consequence is, that a great many 
perish while ;yet in the state of very tender plants. As the soil 
here is entirely formed of decomposed volcanic rocks, it produces 
in all dry situations a soil more fitted for the Scotch fir and spruce^ 
than for the silver fir, which ought never to be planted in hot, dry, 
or rocky situations, where it commonly loses the top shoots, and 
the under branches soon become ragged. The silver fir thrives 
well on sour, heavy, obstmate clay; the Scots fir springs and 
flourishes upon the most barren sand, where scarce any thing but 
heath and furze will grow ; the spruce requires a stronger soil, and 
in dry ground seldom makes any great progress, and is, therefore, 
unfitted for some of the trap hills or emiQenceii on which it is oc- 



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EAGLESHAM. 391 

casionally planted. The sort of fir which thrives best here is the 
larch, and many acres mi^ht be profitably covered with it, which 
are now of little or no value to the proprietor. The great profit 
of planting these trees may be deduced from the consideration, 
that, supposing an acre of trees planted at eight feet apart to con- 
tain 680 trees, and that each tree at fifty years growth should con- 
tain only 70 feet of wood, in that case 680 trees on an acre would 
contain 476,000 cubic feet of timber, which, at Is. a foot, would be 
L»2380. Hard-wood thrives well enough in the lower and more 
sheltered parts of the parish, but not in the higher. 

11. — Civil History. 
This parish was no doubt formerly part of the district of Mearns ; 
a term which does not properly apply to a parish, but to a " dis- 
trict inhabited by'herdsmen or dairy people ;" and when the church 
was built, the village which gradually arose .around it was termed 
Eaglesham or Kirktown. The erection of that church must have 
been in very early times, when the Celtic language was still spok- 
en. The earliest authentic records of the parish are connected 
with the Steuarts. This with other estates was granted by David L 
to Walter, the son of Alan the first Steuart Robert de Mont- 
gomery first settled in Scotland with Alan Lord of Oswaldestre, 
and is believed to have been a grandson of Earl Roger, by a 
younger son, unknown to the genealogists, from the circumstance of 
the Castle of Alan at Oswestry being in the vicinity of Shrews- 
bury, and no other family of Montgomery being then known in 
England. «He obtained from the High Steward the manor of 
Eaglesham, county of Renfrew, which is still possessed by the 
same family. These two distinguished individuals died about 1 177. 
.For two centuries Eaglesham was the chief estate of the Montgo- 
mery femily. On the accession of the Steuarts to the throne in 
1371, the proprietor of Eaglesham became a tenant in capite. 
This was in the time of John de Montgomery, who added to this 
estate the baronies of Eglinton and Ardrossan, by marriage with 
Elizabeth, daughter and heir of Sir Hugh Eglinton, by Egidia, 
sister of Robert XL, King of Scotland. It was this same indivi- 
dual that, at the battle of Otterburn, 1388, took Harry Piercy 
(Hotspur) prisoner with his own hand, and with the ransom or 
poind-money built the Castle of Punoon, or Poinon as the name 
indicates. His successor. Sir Hugh Montgomery, was killed at 
Chevy- Chace by an English archer, who 



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392 RENFREWSHIRE. 

<^ — — bad a bow bent in his hand 

Made of a trusty tree, 
An arrow of a cloth-yard long 

Unto the bead drew be. 
Against Sir Hugh Montgomery 

So right bis hand he set. 
The gray-goose wing that was thereon 

In his heart-blood was wet." 

The barony of Eaglesham has descended since through the 
Barons Montgomery and Earls of Eglinton td^ the present day. 
Eaglesham comprehended 100 marks land of the old extent. The 
chief messuage was the Castle of Punoon, or, as it is sometimes 
written, Polnone or Polnoon, vulgularly pronounced Pownoon. This 
barony seems all along to have remained in the quiet possession of 
the Eglinton family. In the Acts of Parliament published by the 
authority of Government, and in the Rotuli Scotiee, we do not find 
it mentioned till 1672, when Alexander, Eighth Earl of Eglinton, 
obtained an act of Parliament for a ^^ yeirlie fair and weiklie mer- 
cat at the Kirktoun of Eagleshame." The petition of the Earl 
to Parliament is given in full in the ^^ Acts of the Parliament of 
Scotland," (Vol. viii. Appendix, p- 17,) where it is stated that the 
village was then *^ above six miles distant from any burgh royal^ 
or from any other place where mercats or frie fairs are kept, and 
lying on the Kingis high way, is a most fit and convenient place 
for keeping mercats.*' The act grants ** ane yierlie frie fair to be 
keepit within the kirktoun of Eglishame upon the twentie fourt 
day of Aprile yierlie, with ane weekly mercat to be kept thereat 
upon each Thursday, for buying and selling of all sort of mer- 
chandise, and other commodities necessar and useful for the coun- 
try." The Earl and his successors are also farther appointed *^ to 
collect, uptake, and receive the tolls, customs, and dewties belong- 
ing to said yierlie fair, and weiklie mercaL" This fair, with an- 
other for which there is no act of Parliament, is kept yearly in 
May or 24th April, O. S. ; but the weekly market has been dis- 
continued. The Earls of Eglinton have still a residence in the 
parish — Polnoon Lodge ; but it is at present let out Formerly 
the farms of Netherton, Polefaall, Holemuir, and Maulauther, con- 
stituted an ancient property named Auchinhood, a po&session of a 
branch of the Montgomery figimily, and till lately, belonging to 
John Montgomery of Wrae, Depute Secretary of North Britain. 
This estate is now re-united to the Eglinton property. 

Eminent C/iaracters. — The Rev. Robert Pollok, the author 
of the celebrated poem *^ the Course of Time," was a native of 



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EAGLESHAM. 393 

this parish. His fether, John PoUok (aged 82 years) is still 
alive. His mother was Margaret Dickie, from the parish of Fen- 
wick. Her ancestors had for many generations been proprietors 
of a property called Horsehill, in the above parisb. The name of 
the former proprietors was Gremmel, the last of whom, the grand- 
mother of Mr Pollok, was a female who married a person of the 
name of Dickie, of which marriage the mother of the bard was a 
daughter. This family suffered greatly during the persecution, 
and it was chiefly from the details of these sufferings, collected 
from the lips of his mother, that Mr PoUok was led to the com- 
position of that very interesting sketch, " The Persecuted Family.** 
No trace of the period of Mr PoUok's birth is to be found in the 
parisb records. It appears, however, that he was bom in the year 
1799, at Muirhouse, a farm of about 100 acres, scarcely three miles 
west of the village of Eaglesham, then and still in the possession 
of his father, John PoUok, a tenant of the Earl of Eglinton. 
He was baptized by Mr Thomson, Antiburgher minister at Meams. 
Mr Pollok obtained his early education at Langlee, at a school 
supplied by various teachers, who taught only for a stated period 
during the summer months, and returned in the winter to college. 
He was also for some time at a school at Newton Meams. At 
first, he seems to have had no idea of pursuing the clerical pro- 
fession. For some time he assisted his father on the farm, but, 
finding the laborious duties of an ^' upland farmer" to be too ar- 
duous for his feeble constitution, he resigned the sickle and the 
plough, and went to reside at Barrhead with David Young, a bro- 
ther-in-law, for the purpose of learning the carpenter trade ; but, 
after fabricating with his own hands a few chairs and other trifling 
articles^ he seems also to have sickened at the idea of sacrificing 
himself to the pursuit of a mere manual employment, and we ac- 
cordingly find him next residing with his uncle, Mr David Dickie, 
at Fenwick, where he learned Latin and Greek under Mr Fairlie, 
the present parish teacher. Mr Pollok afterwards studied at the 
University of Glasgow, where, after the usual curriculum, he took 
his degree of Master of Arts. He studied theology in the same 
city under Dr Dick, the Professor of Divinity for the United Se- 
cession Church. At this period he seems also to have attended 
the theological lectures of Professor MacGill in the university. 
In the spring of 1827, he was admitted by the United Associate 
Presbytery of Edinburgh, a licentiate of the Secession Church, 
along with his brother, who still remains a preacher, belonging to 



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894 RENFREWSHIRE. 

that body. Mr Pollok preached only once for Dr Brown of 
Rose Street Chapel, Edinburgh, and once* or twice for Dr Bel- 
frage at Slateford. The fatal disease, consumption, which was 
soon to terminate his earthly ministrations, and all other labours, 
was now settling down upon him. He went for a short time to 
reside in Aberdeen, but without any sensible improvement of his 
health, and therefore soon returned to the hospitable abode of his 
friend Dr Belfrage. During Mr Pollok's residence at Slateford, 
he was visited by many distinguished individuals, and received the 
advice and friendly intercourse of Dr Abercrombie of Edinburgh, 
and was also on intimate terms with the family of Dr Monro of 
the University of Edinburgh, who then possessed the pleasant 
villa of Craig- Lockhart, in the vicinity of Slateford. But in spite 
of every effort on the part of his friends and medical advisers, the 
symptoms of the disease continued to advance, and at length it 
became evident that the only chance of saving a life so valuable 
was a residence in Italy. The city of Pisa, in the Grand Duchy 
of Tuscany, was the place selected for his residence. In the 
month of August 1827, he left Scotland for the purpose of pro- 
ceeding on his journey, accompanied by his sister, (now Mrs Gil- 
mour, residing in the village of Eaglesham,) from whom the au- 
thor obtained most of the particulars here recorded. He pro- 
ceeded first to Plymouth, and then took up his residence near to 
Southampton. Here the symptoms increased so rapidly, that it 
was found impossible to proceed farther. The ill-fated bard con- 
tinued to linger on till 18th September 1827, when he expired in 
the arms of his sister. Mrs Gilmour speaks highly of the kind- 
ness of the Rev. Mr Wilson, Rector of a parish in the neighbour- 
hood, and also of the attention paid to her brother by Mr Lloyd 
of Dublin. These gentlemen frequently cheered and consoled 
him, by their presence and conversation, and occasionally brought 
grapes and such other delicacies as were thought to be most agree- 
able. Mr Wilson conversed much with Mr Pollok on spiritual 
matters, and] seemed to take a deep interest in him. Mr Pollok, 
during his illness, as may be supposed, exhibited every symptom 
of being a devout and sincere Christian. He was buried in the 
parish of Millbrook, Southampton, according to the English ri- 
tual. His mother died two years before, aged sixty-six. Of a 
writer so popular, and so justly admired as a poet, it is unneces- 
sary to say more than that he holds an eminent place as a oaan of 
genius among the many eminent characters which his native 



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EAGLESHAM. 395 

oouDtry has produced. But at present it is our duty not so much 
to applaud his genius, as to state a few statistical facts — all that 
can be expected in a limited report. His brother, the Rev. Johc 
Pollok, is now engaged in preparing memoirs of the poet, to be 
published in two volumes ; the first volume to contain a life, and 
the second, letters, posthumous poems, and other writings. Mrs 
Gilmour states that the *^ Course of Time" emanated from the 
exuberant fancy of her brother in about two years ; and also that 
the poet, about the period of its publication, destroyed all his more 
crude and early productions. 

Land-Owners. — Besides the Earl of Eglinton, who is pro- 
prietor of nearly the whole of the parish, there are four small 
proprietors, who hold farms or landed properties to a limited ex- 
tent These are, 

1. Millhall, about one mile south-east of the village. It con- 
sists of about ten acres of very fertile land. This small estate 
was formerly the property of John Mather, who acquired it by 
marrying Mary, daughter of Robert Dunlop of Millhall. It now 
belongs to Ludovio Gavin, Esq. 

2. Boreland, about half a mile from the village of Eagleshara, 
was bought upwards of 170 years ago from a family of the name 
of Anderson, and now belongs to William Brown, Esq. The 
estate consists of about 40 acres of very good land. 

3. West Muirhouse, the property of William Gilmuir, Esq. 
consists of about 250 acres of moorish land, partly cultivated, and 
partly in natural meadow, and unreclaimed heather moss. 

4. East Muirhouse, belonging to James Mather, Esq. consists 
also of 350 acres of similar land to the above. Both this and the 
former property were purchased, 1742, from Mure of Caldwell. 
The following facts as to properties within the parish are from 
authentic sources : — 

Estates. 

1. Eglinton estate> 

2. Millhall, 
a Boreland, 
4 West Muirhouse, 
5. East Muirhouse, 

15,503 L. 3,074 2 6 L. 9,358 

Parochial Registers. — There are, at present, nine volumes in 
possession of the parish schoolmaster, some of them not very re- 
gularly kept. The earliest date is Idth April 1651. 

Antiquities, — The ruins of the Castle of Polnoon are still visi- 
ble on the banks of the Cart, a few miles from its source. It pre- 



English Acres. 
14,958 - 


Valued 11 


lent. 


Real Rent 


L. 2,979 18 





- L. 9,100 


10 


. 




28 


. 40 


53 18 


6 


100 


- 250 


20 





80 


250 


20 





50 



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396 RENFREWSHIRE. 

sento little now to the eye of the spectator, except a few smooth 
knolls of rubbish, and of the obvious inequalities occasioned by 
the sites of the old foundations, covered entirely with a thick 
sward of short matted grass. If the estimates of the genealogists 
may be depended on, upwards of five hundred successions of the 
seasons have worn down this once famous and venerated pile to 
its present curtailed and almost imperceptible dimensions, or al- 
most total obliteration from the face of nature, but not from the 
recorded pages of the historian and antiquary* The spot is still 
rich in classical recollections, and the chivalrous associations and 
exploits of former ages. We can scarcely look on the dreary re- 
gion where this ancient fortalice once stood, the terror and stem 
protection of the dbtrict, without recollecting the Stewarts of 
Scotland, the Montgomeries, Otterburn, Hotspur, and Chevy 
Chace, where one of its most adventurous lords fell by the too un- 
erring and blood-thirsty shaft of a southern archer. The Castle of 
Polnoon has now nothing left to record its ancient fame but the 
recollections of the past ; otherwise it has nothing to recommend 
it to the attention of the stranger. The illiterate now despise or 
overlook it. 

III. — Population. 
The return of the population made to Dr Webster in 1755 was 
lioa In 1791, the number was only 1000, of whom about 300 
were under six years of age, and 700 six years old and upwards. 
At that period, the baptisms were on an average, 25 per annum, 
and the marriages 9 or 10. In 1801, the population was 1176 ; 
in 1811, ten years after, 1424; and in 1821, it had increased to 
1927, of whom 982 were males, and 995 females. There were 
then 239 houses in the parish, which leaves about eight individuals 
to each house. In 1831, the population amounted to 2372, which 
is chiefly to be attributed to the cotton-works erected in the village 
and at MillhalL It is supposed that at next census there will be 
a decrease of inhabitants, or, at least, that they will not have in- 
creased much since 1831. The results of the several Government 
returns is as follows : — 

Yean, Houses. Families. Males. Females. Total. 

1801, . 178 . 200 - 556 . 558 - 1176 

1811, - 219 . 292 . 696 - 728 - 1^24 

1821, . 227 - 984 - 932 . 995 * 1927 

1881, - 242 - 424 - 1177 - 1195 • 2372 
The average of births in seven years is 71, of marriages, 16. 

Number of families in 1631, 4S4 

chiefly engaged in agriculture, • 87 
trade, manu&cture, or handicraft, 302 



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EAGLESHAM* 397 

The increase since 1791 is 1372. In 1801» the number of in- 
habitants to each house in the parish was, on an average, 6. At the 
present time, it is 8, which is entirely owing to the establishment of 
manufactures. At present, the town of Eaglesham contains about 
1750 inhabitants, namely, 879 males, and 871 females, of whom 
845 live on the north side of the town, and 905 on the south side. 
In the country part of the parish, there are 622 souls, namely, 300 
on the north side, and 322 on the south side. The population in the 
country has fallen off from the enlargement of farms, and the de- 
crease of cottars. In the town, the principal increase has arisen, 
as already stated, from the establishment of manufactures. There 
are about six families of independent fortune, and four proprietors 
of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards. The number 
of families, as above, is 424, which is about 5^ to each fiunily. 

The number of illegitimate births during the last three years 
was 3. 

The most popular games are curling and quoits. For the for- 
mer of these sports, the parish affords every encouragement, from 
the great number of lochs which it contains, besides streams and 
meadows. 

Smuggling was at one period very common, but is now at an end. 
Poaching still prevails to a considerable extent, not among the ru- 
ral population, where the greatest facilities occur and the tempta- 
tions are greatest, but chiefly among stragglers from the village, 
who are bad sitters at the loom, or pursue no regular or creditable 
employment. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriadhare. — Tlie parish rises to the west, and gently declines 
to the north*east, and, of course, has not a good exposure. The 
higher districts consist partly of hill, bent, and flow-moss, with 
meadows and green hills interspersed. Along the Cart and banks 
of the principal streams there is a light soil reposing on trap rocks. 
The surface of 'the parish contains 1$,503 acres and 37 £Bdls, of 
which 14,953 acres and 37 falls belong to the Earl of Eglinton, 
and 550 acres are distributed among four other proprietors. The 
Earl of Eglinton's portion is thus divided in Scots acres:-— 

A. R. F. 

Pasture, meaidow, moon, and roads, • 7614 27 

Resenroin and lakes, - . 287 2 

Arable land and houses, - 3970 37 

Plantations, &o. - - 34 2 18 

Scots acrts, - 11,856 2 2 

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398 RENFREWSHIRE. 

The distribution of lands in English acres tbrou(|rhout the pa- 
rish may be thus stated : 

Arable, <• e. in tillage or cultivated grasses, - 6100 aaee. 

Natural pasture and meadow, - - S960 

Moss and moor, little susceptible of eultivation« - 5968 

PlanUtiona, hedges, &c. - - - 60 

English acres, . 15,503 

About 70 acres and 22 falls English are in the possession of the 
villagers. Part of it is let as a farm at the annual rental of L. 16 
Sterling; but the villagers retain the right of casting peat and turf, 
and use the ground between the two rows of houses for bleach- 
ing. It will be seen from the above statements that a considera« 
ble portion of the parish is not arable, but consists of natural pas- 
ture, meadows, and mosses. A great deal of that sort of moss 
which Dr Anderson terms heath-mould, but which the farmers here 
term hill-moss, prevails in the upper, and especially in the western 
parts of the parish. It is an incrustation of moss, frequently only 
a few inches in thickness, which grows »over the dry trap rocks, in 
hilly ground, and on sandy or gravelly soil, where water easily per- 
colates, and where the declivity is such as to facilitate its escape 
from the surface. There are several thousand acres of this sort 
of moss in the parish, all of which is more or less susceptible of 
improvement, although much of it, from being inaccessible to the 
plough, could not be permanently cultivated. At present, besides 
the common moss plants which go to the production of that sort of 
soil, the only plants which it carries with unsparing profusion are, 
the CaUuna mdgaris^ or common ling, and the Erica tetralix and 
cinerea, or cross-leaved, and Gne-leaved heath, with a few junci, 
carices, &c A much more improvable soil is found in the befit- 
moss, which is chiefly found on the sides and skirts of hills and re- 
clining lands, or as a margin to the flow mosses. It is from this 
soil that peat for fuel is cut Those deep beds of moss earth, 
abounding with moisture, termed, as above, flow-moss, are not so 
common here, owing to the nature of the subsoil and foundation 
rock, neither of which are favourable for the retention of moisture. 
In the lower parts of the parish the soil is mostly a thin earth, 
sometimes on a gravelly, but mostly on a dry whinny boMom. 

The following table will give an idea of the amount of arable 
land in a majority ^of the different farms on the Eglinton estate, 
with the average number of cows and horses on each farm. The 
moor and meadow ground is also given. It may be here stated 



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BAGLESHAM. 



399 



that the town lands of Eaglesham contain 51 acres, 2 roods, and 
11 falls Scots, all arable, and 1 rood, 18 falls, moor, &c., and that 
100 cows and 34 horses are kept by the villagers. 





Arable land 


Moss, mea- 


Average 


Average 


Names of Farms. 


and houses. 


dow, &o. 


cows kept. 


horses kept. 




A. 


R. F. 


A. R. F. 








165 


I 10 


6 1 22 


32 


5 


Low hill. 


46 


2 37 


7 2 1 


10 


2 


Highhill, 


25 


327 


5 38 


8 


2 


Picketiaw, 


57 


1 15 


1 24 








Comerings, 


48 


I 2§ 











Upper Boreland, 


78 


3 33 


]8 3 31 


14 


2 


East Tofts, 


73 


3 22 


29 1 26 


12 


2 


West Tofts, 


21 


23 


18 2 18 


6 


1 


Bonyton, 


78 


2 9 


j9 8 23 


18 


3 


Bogside, 


63 


328 


3 026 


10 


2 


North Floors, 


82 


1 2 


3 15 


14 


3 


Ross Mill, near Windhill, . 


109 


3 11 


8 2 39 


IB 


3 


South Floors and Laigh Tofts, 


84 


35 


15 3 18 


22 


3 


Crosslees and part of Boreland, 


101 


232 


3 2 27 


20 


3 


Brakenrig. &c. 


140 


1 6 


4 17 


24. 


4 


Laigh Boreland, 
Holebouse, 


89 


1 25 


5 35 


8' 


2 


64 


3 21 


7 2 13 


16 


2 


South Kirklands, 


69 


1 5 


4 232 


16 


2 


Walkers, &c. 


73 


2 18 





15 


3 


Mains, 


52 


18 


4 229 


10 


2 


Stepend, 


30 


3 18 


3 030 


8 


2 


Potnoon, 


52 


16 


4 37 


10 


2 


Broadflat, 


34 


2 19 


6 1 9 


8 


2 


\^^>odhouse, , 


58 


10 


4 324 


14 


2 


Park,. 


54 


1 32 


25 3 36 


14 


2 


.Netherton, 


71 


3 9 


41 I 16 


18 


2 


Over Enoch, 


108 


1 29 


78 2 18 


24 


3 


West Ardoch, 


80 





33 14 


18 


2 


East Ardoch, 


107 


3 31 


73 8 


24 


3 


Mid and Nether Enoch, . 


44 


2 1 


16 1 25 


14 


2 


Damhead, 


21 


3 14 


4 I 6 


6 


1 


Nethercraig, 


87 


1 6 


4 31 


18 


3 


North High Craig, 


95 


225 


3 8 2 


16 


3 


West and South High Craig, 


50 


20 


1 1 28 


8 


1 


East High Craig, 


53 


3 36 


7 3 39 


12 


2 


Temples, 


71 


2 17 


11 1 1 


14 


2 




118 


1 34 


23 3 11 


24 


3 


Upper Threepland, 


93 


1 2 


757 1 38 


14 


2 


Nether Threepland, 


59 


235 


17 3 24 


14 


2 


Drumduff, ■ 


2 


3 15 


427 1 9 


6 


1 



Soots acres, . 2705 2 12 1697 3 557 88 

In addition to the above forty farms, there are in the parish 
twenty-two besides, of which one contains 214 acres of arable 
land, another 116, a third 105, one 99, another 93, also one 94 
acres. Some are as low as one or two acres, and from that up 
to 56. The cows kept on these twenty-two additional farms are 350, 
and the horses 40. In the whole parish there are 1057 cows, be- 
sides young stock, which may amount to 300 more. There are 
152 horses besides those rearing; in all about 200. In 1791, the 

RENFREW. D d 



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400 RENFREWSHIRE. 

number of horses was 120, and of cows 756. There are about 
4000 old sheep in the parish, besides a proportional number of 
young ones. The horses increase in the spring when the ploughing 
begins in March ; but the smaller farmers sometimes join two and 
two to make up the number of horses necessary for ploughing their 
lands, which, in the language of the country, is termed marrowing. 
The Glasgow market supplies those who purchase in spring, or 
beginning of the working season, and sell again when the labour is 
over. In the higher parts of the parish, however, the tenants 
plough little. Their great dependence, as formerly stated, is on 
sheep, and the rearing of cattle. In the lower part of the parish, where 
the soil is drier, and the climate more favourable, when the land 
is allowed to lie four years, it produces two excellent crops of oats, 
with a very slight application of lime or manure, and generally re- 
pays the labour of the farmer. The farmers in that quarter only 
plough a fourth part of their arable ground, and oats is the princi- 
pal grain they raise. Ever since Glasgow has risen to its present 
importance, the great dependence of the farmers in this quarter, 
as in Kilbride, and the neighbouring parishes, is on their milk, 
butter, and cheese, particularly on their butter-milk, which, with 
the butter, is driven into the Glasgow market, once or twice, or 
oftener a week. On this account they have few horses, but a great 
many cows, all of the Ayrshire breed, but, owing to the soil and 
climate, not of the largest size. In the beginning of winter they 
are fed chiefly on oat straw ; but, in the latter end of winter^ and 
till the pasture springs up, with hay, and a little grain or oats once 
a day. Milch cows are generally set a bowing at from L. 8 to 
L. 9. The rate of grazing a cow about the village is L. 5, but less 
farther up the county ; a sheep is about 5s. The rent of arable land 
varies from L. 5 to 10s. per acre per annum. Some of the lower 
parts of the parish let at L. 2 per acre, as Millhall and Borland. 
A great deal lets at L. 1 and 15s. per acre. Ploughmen are hired 
at from L. 9 to L. 1 for six months, or from L. 1 8 to L. 20 per 
annum, with board and washing; female servants at from L.6 to 
L. 9 and L. 10 per annum. In 1791, the fees of men-servants 
were from L. 6, to L. 9, and of female servants from L. 2, lOs. to 
L. 4, 10s. per annum. The number of farmers at the same pe- 
riod was 63 ; at present the number is nearly the same. The ge- 
neral duration of leases is nineteen years. A good deal has of late 
been done by way of improving or reclaiming waste lands, particu** 



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EAGLKSHAM. 401 

larly about Threepland, the Ardochs, Kevochs, Greenfields, Kirk- 
tonmuirs, Lochcraig, Binning, &c, A great many of the farm- 
houses have been recently rebuilt, and are on greatly improved 
plans ; the old ones, however, are very bad. The great obstacle 
to improvement on the part of the tenants is want of capital, and 
perhaps the proprietors of large estates, generally, do not give the 
encouragement required. As this property is at present situated, 
the Earl of Eglmton has no blame to be attached to him on that 
score. 

Produce^ — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in 
the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained : 

3000 bolls of oau for meal, al^ L. 1 per boll, L. 9000 

2000 for other purposes, . . 2000 

Dairy produce from 1000 cows, . 9000 

All other produce, . . 6000 

L. 20,000 

In this estimate the young stock and sheep are not included* 
and several other items, which may raise the whole L. 1000 or 
L. 2000, but as the author has no precise data to proceed upon, 
he cannot form an exact estimate. 

Manufactures.'^T\iQve are two cotton-mills in the parish, one 
at Eaglesham, and one at *Millhall on a much smaller scale. The 
mill at Eaglesham village belongs to the firm of Maclean and 
Brodie, Glasgow. It contains 15,312 spindles, and spins yarns 
from No. 50 to No. 60. The machinery is driven by a magnificent 
water-wheel of iron forty-five feet in diameter, and of fifty horse 
power. It was planned by the late James Dunlop, Esq., and was 
manufactured by Murdoch and Aikin, engineers, Glasgow. About 
740 cubic feet of water fall on the wheel per minute, and yet it is 
so artfully introduced and carried away, that no water is seen 
within the walls where the wheel is erected. The following is the 
number of hands employed. 

Below 13 years of age, 

at 13 do. . do. 

14 do, do. 

16 do. do. 

18 do. do. 

20 do. do. 

Above 20 do. do. 

87 lis 

This min was built at different periods, and has once or twice 
been burnt down. It is confined entirely to mule-spinning. There 
is no throstle-spinning nor power-looms. The mill at Millhall 



ales. 


Females. 


16 


12 


12 


19 


10 


11 


8 


16 


5 


12 


2 


5 


34 


38 



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402 RENFREWSHIRE. 

contains 6*20 spindles, and employs 64 hands, 24 of whom are 
males. The water-wheel is twenty-four horse power. The work 
belongs to Ludovick Gavin, Esq, and is employed chiefly in spin- 
ning shuttle cord for power-looms, and candle-wicks. A consider- 
able quantity of toad for the use of the infirmary is also manufac- 
tured, of the most approved sort. Persons ought to be aware of 
that purchased in the shops with a glazed surface, strengthened by 
glue, as it is manufactured with arsenic to preserve it from insects, 
and often proves hurtful when applied to open wounds. These 
works are all under the new factory arrangements. There is also 
a corn-mill in the village with three pair of stones. It grinds 3000 
bolls per annum, at the following prices, 10s. for oatmeal; Is. 6d. 
for barley ; and Is. 6d. for pease. No sucken, but tenants bound 
to grind there at the above prices. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
The only town in the parish is Eaglesham. In 1672, in the 
reign of Charles II. it had a weekly fair and market established 
by act of Parliament, as formerly mentioned. In 1796, Alexan- 
der, tenth Earl of Eglinton begun a new town upon a very ex- 
tensive and elegant plan. It consists of two rows of elegantly 
built houses, all of freestone, with a large space between, laid out 
in fine green fields, interspersed with trees, with a fine gurgling 
streamlet running down the middle. The rows of houses at the 
top or west end are 100 yafds apart, and those at the bottom or 
east end, 250 yards. The village is in all two furlongs and thirty 
falls in length. Towards the higher end, and on the rivulet, the 
cotton mill stands which was in the course of being built when last 
account of the parish was written. The feus or tacks are for 999 
years, at the moderate rate of dd. per fall, or L. 2 Sterling per 
Scots acre. Each house has a rood of ground for a garden. The 
villagers have, besides, 70 acres and 22 falls of ground free of rent, 
of which 3 acres, 2 roods, and 26 falls, are covered with wood, and 
1 rood and 18 falls are in waste or meadows. This is let out at 
an annual rental of about L. 16, with which sum and some other 
small perquisites, a committee or body of directors are annually 
chosen for the management of the affairs of the township. A 
baron-bailie also resides on the demesne. Besides cotton spinning, 
there are about 400 weavers in the village. About 1790, there 
were 63 silk-looms at work in Eaglesham ; in a few years after 
they sunk down to 33 ; and at present that branch of trade is ex- 



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BAGLESHAM. 403 

tinct, and has been entirely replaced by the weaving of cotton 
goods, the materials for which are furnished by the Glasgow and 
Paisley manufacturers. The village is about nine miles from Glas- 
gow, eleven from Paisley, and twelve from Hamilton. There is 
a two-horse coach to Glasgow every Wednesday and Saturday, 
from the head of Main Street, Gorbals. There are also 3 car- 
riers to Glasgow on the same days. The village has also a post- 
office and daily post. There are about seven miles of parish 
roads, and seven of turnpike. The bridges on the great thorough- 
fares are all good. So far back as the end of last century, the 
enclosure of farms had been begun, and now nearly the whole of 
the lower part of the parish is well fenced. 

Ecclesiastical State,* — The parish church is situated on the 
south side of the village, near the middle of it. It is of an octa- 
gonal form, very compact, and well fitted up within. It was built 
in 1790, and contains 550 sittings. The lower part, containing 
350 sittings, has never been divided, but, by the kindness of the 
Noble Earl, is not rented, and is left free to the villagers. The 
liberality of the Eglinton family in this respect ought to be pub- 
licly recorded as an example worthy of imitation. The manse 
was built in 1832, at an expense of about L. 1200, and is very ele- 
gant and commodious. The glebe consists of 7g acres, and is let 
at L..25 per annum. The stipend is 17 chalders, half meal, and 
half barley, with L. 10 for communion elements. There is also 
a congregation belonging to the United Associate Synod. The 
church was built in 1782, and contains 480 sittings. The con- 
gregation is collected not only from this parish but also from Kil- 
bride, Carmunnock, and Fenwick. The present incumbent, the 
Rev. William Carswell, was ordained in 1827. There isalso a con- 
gregation belonging to the Reformed Presbyterian Church. The 
meeting-house was built about 1825, and contains about 400 sit- 
tings. The present incumbent, the Rev. Robert Winning, A. M. 
was ordained in 1826. Divine service is remarkably well attended 

* The patronage of the church of Eaglesham has belonged to the Eglinton family 
from the middle of the twelfth century. Thomas de Arthurlie, perhaps a relation of 
Wallace, was rector of Eaglesham, 1968. In 1429, the parish church was constituted 
a prebend of the Cathedral of Glasgow. It was taxed L.S yearly for the use of the 
diocesan church. In Bagimonfs Roll it is taxed at L. 10, Ids. 4d., which, being a 
tenth of the estimated spiritual revenues, the whole would be L. 106, Ids. 4d. At 
the Reformation the parsonage of Eaglesham produced 14 chalders, IB^ bolls, which 
were let for L. 186, ISs. 4d. yearly. A small Popish chapel was used for the parish 
ohurch before 1790. 



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404 RENFREWSHIRE. 

in the Established Church, and, by the faithful and diligent mini- 
strations of their present pastor, the congregation is steadily in- 
creasing. The communicants are on an average 250. From 
causes already alluded to, but, perhaps, principally from the un- 
godly jealousies of parties, the number of the communicants in the 
Secession church cannot be ascertained. No list was taken for 
the Church Commission ; but the population, according to the best 
and most careful estimates, is about equally divided among Church- 
men and Dissenters. Among the latter is included Roman Catho- 
lics, Episcopalians, and all sectarians whatsoever, and also those 
who attend no place of worship. Mr CarswelPs stipend is L. HO 
per annum ; and Mr Winning's about L. 60. The average an- 
nual collections in the parish church for religious and charitable 
purposes is about L. 12. 

Education. ^-There are three schools besides the parish school. 
Mr Smellie, the parochial teacher, has lately got a very able and 
popular assistant, who has raised the present number of scholars 
to about 80, and his pupils are still increasing. At another school 
90 children are taught, of whom 20 or 30 belong to the cotton 
factory; at a third' 15; and at the fourth about 9; in all 184 
scholars. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 30 per 
annum with about L. 7 of perquisites. The branches taught, with 
the prices, are — for reading, 3s. per quarter; for writing, 3s. 6d. ; 
for arithmetic, 4s. ; for Latin, 6s. A new school-house was late- 
ly erected, capable of containing 150 scholars. 

Literature. — There is a small library in the village containing 
about 240 volumes. The entry money is 3s. and the annual con- 
tribution also 3s. 

Friendly Societies. — There is in the parish what is termed a 
" Penny Society," from that small sum being paid at stated periods^ 
for which a fund is procured for the sick, at the rate of 5s. or 6s. 
per week. There is also a burial society. 

Poor. — The average number receiving parochial aid is about 30, 
at 6s. per month each. The annual sum collected is about L. 140, 
of which sum the heritors and tenants pay L. 120, and L. 20 is 
obtained from the collections at the parish church. The assess- 
ment is entirely voluntary. 

Fairs. — There is one, as. already stated, on 24th April, O. S. 
at which there is generally a cattle-show, and another on the last 
Thursday of August, established by use and wont, at which the 



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GREENOCK. 405 

feuars have a procession, which generally terminates with a horse 
race for a Kilmarnock bonnet 

Akhouses.'-^Theve are 15 public-houses in the parish. They 
are rather on the decrease. 

Fuel. — Coals are brought from a considerable distance, namely, 
firom Glasgow, Wellshot, and Hamilton. They are laid down at 
7s. for 12 cwt. 

March 1840. 



PARISH OF GREENOCK.* 

PRESBYTERY OF GREENOCK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. PATRICK M'FARLAN, D. D., Minister of the Old 

or West Parish. 
THE REV. J. SMITH, A. M., MiddU Parish. 
THE REV. WILLIAM MENZIES, A. M., East Parish. 
THE REV. N. MORREN, A. M., North Parish. 
THE REV. J. J. BONAR, St Andrews. 
THE REV. A MACBEAN, A. M., South Parish. 
THE REV. WILLIAM LAUGHTON, St Thomas'. 
THE REV. JAMES STARK, CarUdyke. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name^ Boundaries, Sfc. — Greenock, originally one parish, de- 
rives its name from the estate on which the old church was built, 
when the parish was disjoined from Inverkip in 1592. That estate, 
it can scarcely be doubted, received its name from the Castle of 
Wester Greenock, the mansion of the proprietor at whose solici- 
tation the parish was disjoined or erected ; or, to speak more cor- 
rectly, from the hill or rising ground on which the castle was built 
The word appears to be Celtic, and, perhaps, is compounded of 
two Gaelic words, — Grian^ signifying the sun, and enoc, signifying 
a hill ; in composition Grian^hrioc^ the hill of the sun, or the sunny 
hill. If this conjecture be well founded, the name is peculiarly 
appropriate to the site of the Castle of Wester Greenock, which 
is never thrown into the shade at any hour of the day, and is strik- 
ingly contrasted in this respect with the adjoining hills to the south 
and east of Greenock, especially the latter, which, for four or five 
weeks in winter, are not at all visited with the cheering rays of the 

* Drawn up hj the Rev. Patrick M* Parian, D.D., Minister of the West Parish. 



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406 BENFREW8HIRE. 

sun. Some etymologists have supposed that the word signifies 
the sunny bay. But Celtic scholars are agreed in opinion, that 
the last syllable cannot be rendered bay. Besides^ there is no bay 
in the neighbourhood with which the bay of Greenock may be con- 
sidered as put in contrast : and, as it can scarcely be doubted that 
the town received its name, not from the bay on which it stands, 
but from the ancient castle on the elevated ground above, the con- 
jecture that Greenock signifies the hill of the sun seems the more 
probable of the two. 

The parish extends along the river Clyde about 5 miles, from 
the immediate vicinity of Port- Glasgow on the one side, to within 
a few hundred yards of the town of Gourock on the other. It is 
bounded by the river on the north and north-east ; by the parishes 
of Port- Glasgow and Kilmacolm on the south-east; by Kilmacolm 
and Houston on the south ; and by Inverkip and the recently erected 
parish of Gourock on the west. From the shore or brink of the 
river there is a gradual ascent of upwards of 600 feet, interrupted 
only in the western portion of the parish by a lower ridge, termi- 
nating in a rocky abrupt hill, called Binnans, from which there is 
a commanding view of the bay of Gourock, and the Highland 
lochs on the opposite side of the Frith. Beyond the second or 
highest ridge, there is a moor stretching a considerable way into 
the interior, and giving rise to the Gryfe, one of the tributary 
streams of the Black Cart There is nothing peculiar in the as- 
pect of the ground of which the parish is composed. There are 
no caves, caverns, or fissures worthy of particular notice. The 
shore of the river or Frith is flat and sandy, without any remark- 
able headlands, unless we except Binnans, formerly mentioned^ 
and which, standing at a short distance from the shore, is a very 
striking land-mark to vessels coming up the river, and rounding 
the point which forms the northern termination of the bay of Gou- 
rock. Greenock has no picturesque beauty in itself, except what 
it derives from the elegant and tasteful villas in its eastern and 
western suburbs. There is hardly any coppice in its ravines; the 
plantations of forest trees are few and of small dimensions ; the 
hills are sadly destitute of clothing, and when compared with those 
in the neighbouring parish of Inverkip are tame and monotonous. 
But these deficiencies are, in a great measure, compensated by its 
having some of the finest land and sea views which are to be seen 
in Scotland, or, perhaps, in any part of the globe. It is impossi- 
ble to walk out of the town of Greenock in any direction without 



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GREENOCK. 4Q7 

having our eyes feasted with some portion of the rich and magni* 
ficent scenery which is produced by the combination of nature and 
art ; of the heath-clad mountains with the grassy hill and culti- 
vated field, and extensive pleasure-ground, and of the broad ex* 
pause of water with the multitude of the whitening sails which be- 
deck its surface* From the rising ground the views are peculiarly 
splendid, including in their range the opposite coast from Bowling 
and Dunglass to Dunoon, with its towns, villas, and numerous in- 
dentations, and a considerable part of the south bank of the river, 
with the towns and harbours of Port-Glasgow and Greenock. 

Meteoroloffy.^^FoT some years a register of the state of the wea- 
ther has been kept at the Infirmary. The following report for 
1888 has been furnished by Mr Mackinlay, the apothecary and 
clerk of that excellent institution. The observations were made 
at noon, and the degrees of the thermometer and barometer mark- 
ed indicate the highest and lowest degrees in each month. 

" January. Thermometer ranged between 24 and 49 ; baro- 
meter between 29.32 and dO.64 ; pluviometer .95 of an inch. 
Wind for the most part £• and S. E. Frosty weather, with snows. 

February. Thermometer, 26 and 39; barometer, 29.12 and 
80.70 ; pluviometer, 4.30. Wind £. during the whole of this 
month, with continued frost and some snow. 

March. Thermometer, 87 and 54 ; barometer, 29.44 and 
30.74; pluviometer, 3.10. Wind and weather very changeable. 
£. and S. W. the prevailing winds. Dull, soft, and windy. 

April. Thermometer, 40 and 56 ; barometer, 29.41 and 30.41 ; 
pluviometer, 1 inch. Wind, E., W., and S. W. ; very variable. 
When S. W. windy and rainy. Some frost occasionally. Fine. 

May. Thermometer, 50 and 70; barometer, 29.70 and 30.60; 
pluviometer, 1.85. Wind £• and S. W. Very fine weather. 

June. Thermometer, 43 and 71 ; barometer, 29.52 and 30.50 ; 
pluviometer, 3.50. Wind E. and S. W. Weather very change- 
able, but sometimes very fine. 

July. Thermometer, 57 and 75 ; barometer, 29.65 and 80.39 ; 
pluviometer, 3.20. Wind E., S., and W. Some'very fine wea- 
ther. S. and W. soft and squally ; E. fine. 

August. Thermometer^ 57 and 67; barometer, 29.80 and 
30.36 ; pluviometer, 4.90. Wind W., S. W., and N. W. Wea- 
ther exceedingly changeable ; soft, dull, and windy. 

September. Thermometer, 54 and 67 ; barometer, 29.50 and 



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4QS RENFREWSHIRE. 

80.60 ; pluviometer, 3 inches. Wind £. and S. W. Some very 
fine weather; occasionally ¥ery still, heavy, wd soft. 

October. Thermometer, 45 and 62; barometer, 29.30 and 
80.82 ; pluviometer, 4 inches. Winds E., S. W., and W. Soft 
and vrindy. Fine weather at the beginning of the month. 

November. Thermometer, 85 and 52; barometer, 28.26 and 
80.57 ; pluviometer, 2.80. Wind £. and S. W. Some fine 
weather ; frost and snow. End of month windy. 

December. Thermometer, 84 and 50 ; barometer, 29.06 and 
80.68; pluviometer, 8 inches. Wind S. W., £.,and S. E. Very 
changeable, vi^ith tremendous gales. 

Polar lights occasionally seen since September.'' 

From the foregoing repoti;, it appears that the quantity of rain 
which fell at Greenock in the year 1888 was 85.60 inches. In 
1886, according to Crich ton's pluviometer, it was 41.89. In 1837, 
it was 32.89. In 1888, it was 81.75. The average of these three 
years is 85.34 nearly.* This is greatly below the quantity which £dls 
annually in Westmoreland and Cumberland, and nearly eight inches 
below the annual amount at Manchester, From the same report, 
it appears that the thermometer did not stand lower than 24^ in a 
winter of unusual severity, and that its highest degree in the same 
year was 75^ It is still more remarkable that, in the months of 
May and June, the thermometer ranged between 50^ and 70"" and 
48'' and 7V. When it is considered that the year 1838 was oneof 
the most ungenial which has occurred for a long while, it must, 
we think, be admitted that the climate of Greenock will bear com* 
parison, in respect of mildness, with that of almost any other portion 
of the mainland in this part of Britain. From the vicinity of this 
parish to the high mountains in the Cowal district of Argyleshire, 
and to the Arran range, it may be expected that it should be vi- 
sited with more frequent showers than the inland parts of the island. 
But, on the whole, the atmosphere is far from being humid ; the 
air in the landward portion? of the parish is remarkably salubrious ; 

* Mr James Leitcb, merchant in Greenock, has mentioned to the writer of this 
Account the following important fact, proying the necessity of choosing an open and 
eiposed position for the receiver of a pluyiometer. A pluviometer, constructed by 
Crichton, was placed with its receiver on the roof of the Infirmary; another, con- 
structed by Thorn, was plac^ in the garden behind. The one showed a total, during 
the year 18S6, of 41 -69, the other of 62.10. In 1837, the one showeda total of S2.d9, 
the other of 49. 15. In the course of last year both receivers were placed on the'roof, 
close to one another, and they very nearly correspond. This fact throws a great de- 
gree of uncertainty over the conclusions drawn from a comparison of the quantitiea 
of rain alleged to have fallen in different districts of the country. 



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GRCENOCK. 409 

and neither in them nor in the town is sickness more frequent or 
more fatal than in other places similarly situated. 

Hydrograpky.^-'XixiAev this head, the river Clyde is the only 
object deserving of notice in a statistical account. The Shaws 
water, being an artificial accumulation, appears to fall more pro- 
perly under another head, and will be treated with the minuteness 
which its great importance deserves. 

The Clyde at Greenock, and for several miles above the town, 
is a frith or estuary rather than a river, — the width from the Ren- 
frewshire side to the opposite coast varying from three to four and 
a half and five miles. In the middle of the frith there is a sand- 
bank, which, commencing almost immediately below Dumbarton 
Castle, or about nine miles above Greenock, and running longi- 
tudinally, terminates at a point nearly opposite to the western ex- 
tremity of the town, well known to merchants and others by the 
name of the " tail of the bank." During spring-tides, part of 
this bank opposite to the harbour is visible at low water; and the 
depth of the channel on each side of this bank is such as to admit 
vessels of the largest class. Between Port-Glasgow and Garvald 
point a remarkable promontory, about a mile and a half to the east- 
ward of Greenock, the high part of the bank to which we have 
referred, is separated from the upper portion, (part of which, oppo- 
site to Port-Glasgow, is also dry at low water,) by a narrow chan- 
nel significantly called the *' Through-let," through which the 
tide, passing from the lower part of the frith in a north-easterly 
direction, and obstructed in its progress by Ardmore, a promontory 
on the Dumbartonshire side of the river, rushes with such impe- 
tuosity as to produce high water at Port-Glasgow a few minutes 
earlier than at Greenock. The submarine island which is thus 
formed, and which is commonly called the Greenock bank, to dis- 
tinguish it from the high part of the bank opposite to Port- Glas- 
gow, was granted by His Majesty's Government to the corpora- 
tion of the town of Greenock, during the magistracy of the late 
Mr Quintin Leiteh. The charter by the Barons of Exchequer is 
dated 90th September 1816, and contains the following words 
expressive of the object which the corporation had in view in ap- 
plying for the grant : — ^^ Pro propositoaedificandi murum, vel acqui- 
rendi ad ripam antedictam ex Australi latere ejusdem quaotum ad 
Septentrionem eadem possit acquiri." 

It may be necessary to mention, for the information of strangers, 
that the southern channel is the only one for vessels passing to and 
from the different ports on the river, the greatest depth of water in 



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410 RENFREWSHIRE. 

the ^< Through-let'' being quite insufficient in its present state to 
admit of vessels of any considerable burden passing that way. The 
width of the channel, opposite to the harbour of Greenock, does 
not much exceed 300 yards. Ascending it' rapidly diminishes in 
width, — a circumstance which, but for the application of steam to 
the towing of ships, must have presented for ever an insuperable 
obstacle to the progress of the trade of Glasgow. It is supposed 
that, of late years, the sand-bank has increased, in consequence of 
the operations necessary for deepening the upper part of the river, 
and that the channel has been contracted proportionally. No ex* 
act survey having been made till very recently, the truth on these 
points has not yet been ascertained. The subject, however, being 
one of the greatest magnitude, with reference to the trade of the 
river generally, has most justly attracted the attention of the 'cor- 
poration and town of Greenock. Besides employing a civil en- 
gineer to take the soundings minutely, Her Majesty's Government 
have consented, at their solicitation, to make a complete survey of 
the river, at the public expense. In a very short time it will be 
known whether the deposition of sand from the upper part of the 
river be producing any perceptible change in the state of the chan- 
nel. Meanwhile, it is understood to be in contemplation to erect 
a break-water on the island above described, to protect the har- 
bour from the north*e&sterly gales ; and also to adopt such mea- 
sures as may be deemed expedient for arresting the evil with which 
the trade is supposed to be threatened from the other cause which 
has now been mentioned. 

Geology and Mineralofft/. — Greenock is situated in that extensive 
district of fioetz-trap rocks, which stretches almost from the river 
Cart downwards to the neighbourhood of Saltcoats — a distance of 
nearly fifty miles. The stratified rocks which form the basis extend 
in some places to a height of more than 100 feet above the level of the 
sea, and are there met and overtopped by the secondary greenstone of 
which all the eminences in the neighbourhood are composed. The 
strata generally dip at a very small angle towards the south or south- 
east, and present no remarkable dislocations. They are, however, in 
several places, as, for example, in the neighbourhood of Fort Ma- 
tilda,* intersected by dikes both of greenstone and a peculiarly soft 
claystone. In the upper part of the parish, we find beds of a red, 
and also of a greenish marly clay, alternating with the sandstone 

* A fort or buttery on the shore near the western extremity of the parish. 



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GBEENOCK. 411 

strata, and containing in some places considerable masses of lime* 
stone. There is, howevdr, but little of this important rock to be 
found either in ritUj or in such quantities as to encourage the 
working of it. The sandstone rocks have been quarried to a consi-* 
derable extent, and appear to be well adapted to the purposes of the 
builder. They do not contain, so far as we have heard, any traces 
of organic remains — almost the only foreign substance which is 
found in them being a soft unctuous clay, and a few small portions, 
lately discovered, of gypsum. The conglomerated strata are chief* 
ly composed of rolled pebbles of quartz, with an admixture of frag* 
ments of mica-slate, and clay-slate, firmly bound together by a basis 
of silicified iron-shot clay* The secondary greenstone, of which 
the surrounding hills are formed, is of so very friable and splintery 
a nature, as to be fit for scarce any economical purpose. It con- 
tains, however, a considerable number of interesting minerals,, 
though the specimens found of them are, from the nature of the 
rock, so much weathered as to be of no value. Thus, we possess 
almost every member of the zeolite family : viz. analcime, stilbite, 
heulandite, and some beautifully delicate specimens of mesotype ; 
also calcareous spar, quartz crystals, sulphate of barytes, prehnite, 
and rare but distinct specimens of a very fine greenish lithomarge. 
We need hardly mention that there are no traces of coal in this 
parish. 

The soil in general is bad. On the shore it consists chiefly of 
clay, mingled with sea-shells and gravel. In the higher ground 
immediately adjoining, there are a few fields of excellent loam. 
With these exceptions, the soil is stiff and clayey, or consists of a 
thin surface of vegetable mould, resting on a subsoil of clay, or on 
the solid rock, and consequently wet and ungrateful, and in some 
places scarcely capable of draining and cultivation. Here and there, 
even in the lowest elevations, there are spots of peat-moss, or soil 
mingled with peat, and the highest ground consists principally of 
soil of that description. 

There are no mines of any kind^in the parish. Copper mines 
were worked for some time in the neighbouring parish of Gourock ; 
but it is the universal belief, that there is none of that or any other 
workable mineral in Greenock. 

Botany. — There is nothing peculiarly interesting in the botany 
of this parish. It comprehends, however, two plants of conside- 
rable rarity, viz. the Bartsia viseosa and the (Enanthe pimpinellai' 
des^ besides the following more frequent, yet uncommon species, 



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412 RENF&EWSHIRE. 

Anagallis tenellaj Campanula hederaceaj Sison vertidttatum^ (EnaU" 
thejistulosaj Polygonum bistortaj and Botrychium lunaria. 

Two rows of fine plane trees, and a clump of beech, near the 
mansion-house of Greenock, and some old timber around Carts- 
burn House, the property of William Crawfurd, Esq., are the only 
trees of considerable girth we can boast of. 
IT. — Civil History. 
The earliest historical account of this parish is to be found ia 
Crawfurd's History of Renfrewshire. A work, entitled " History 
of the Town of Greenock," was published in 1829 by Mr Daniel 
Weir. In Mr Wilson's View of the Agriculture of Renfrewshire, 
published in 1812, there is a great variety of valuable statistical 
information respecting the agriculture and commerce of Greenock, 
as they existed at that period, of which the writer of this account 
has freely availed himself. There are several maps of the town, 
but none, so far as the compiler knows, of the parish. Mr Mac* 
farlane, land-surveyor in Glasgow, is engaged at present in pre- 
paiing a more accurate and extended plan than any which has 
yet been published. 

Parochial Registers, — The records of the kirk-session do not 
extend farther back than 1694, and the registers of births and 
marriages commenced with April 1698. Until a very recent date 
no register of burials has been kept. The kirk-session records 
have been shamefully mutilated. Happily the oldest volume con- 
tinues entire; but, except to the inquirer into the history of ec- 
clesiastical discipline in the end of the seventeenth and the begin- 
ning of the eighteenth centuries, it does not contain any very inte- 
resting' information. 

Greenock, as will afterwards be mentioned more particularly 
under the head of ^< Ecclesiastical State," is divided into eight 
parishes. In treating of its civil history we shall consider these 
as one, and, after a brief account of the principal heritable pro- 
perties of which it is composed, we shall confine ourselves almost 
exclusively to the history of the town of Greenock. 

At the erection of the parish in 1592, and for a considerable 
time before that period, the estates of Wester Greenock, Finnart, 
and Spango were in possession of the Shaws of Greenock, one of 
the oldest and most distinguished families in the West of Scotland. 
On the death of Sir John Shaw, the last of that name, in 1752, 
Mr Shaw Stewart, afterwards Sir John Shaw Stewart, eldest son 
of Sir Michael Stewart of Blackball, succeeded to these estates 



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GUEENOCK. 413 

ID right of his mother and graQdmother then deceased* the latter, 
wife of Sir John Houston of Houston, King the daughter and 
heiress of entail of Sir John Shaw, the father of the baronet of that 
name above-mentioned; and sister of the last Sir John. Sir John 
Shaw Stewart died in 1812, and was succeeded by his nephew. 
Sir Michael Shaw Stewart, at that time Mr Nicolson of Carnock. 
On his death in 1825, he was succeeded in the possession of his 
estates by his eldest son, the late Sir Michael Shaw Stewart, and 
at his death on the 19th December 1836, he was succeeded by 
his eldest son, the present Sir Michael Robert Shaw Stewart, a 
minor. 

The lands of Easter Greenock and Crawfurdsbum or Cartsburn, 
belonged at the time of their annexation to the Crawfurds of Kil- 
birny. But in 1669, Dame Margaret Crawfurd, Lady Kilbimy, 
with consent of her husband, disponed the barony of Easter Green- 
ock to Sir John Shaw, and the lands of Cartsburn to Thomas 
Crawfurd, son of Cornelius Crawfiird, of JordanhilL These two 
estates are now in the hands of Sir Michael Shaw Stewart, and Mr 
Crawfurd of Cartsburn, the heirs and lineal descendants respec- 
tively of the said Sir John Shaw and Thomas Crawfurd. 

Mr Hamilton of Garvock is the only other heritor superior. At 
one time Lord Cathcart, whose. ancestor Charles Lord Cathcart, 
was married in 1718 to a daughter of the last Sir John Shaw, was 
in possession as a descendant of that marriage of sub-feus to a con- 
siderable amount in the town of Greenock, in consequence of 
which, when Lord Cathcart was elevated to the earldom, and be« 
came a British Peer^ he took the title of Lord Greenock along 
with that of Earl Cathcart, which title is assumed accordingly by 
his eldest son. 

Robertson, in his continuation of Crawfurd's History of Ren- 
frewshire, gives the valued rent of this parish as follows : — 

Sir Michael Shaw Stewart, . . . L. 1933 6 8 

William Crawfurd, Esq. . . . 223 6 8 

William Charles Hamilton, Esq. • . 129 2 

L.2285 15, 4 
Greenock and Crawfurdsdyke are the only villages or towns 
of any considerable size in this parish. Both of them are situate 
on the sea-shore, the latter at a very short distance to the east-< 
ward of the former ; and both may lay claim, as villages, at least to 
some antiquity. It is evident that they have had their origin in 
their vicinity to the mansion-houses of the respective proprietors of 



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414 RENFUEWSHIRE. 

Greenock and Crawfurdsburn, and that at one time they were 
cherished by these pro|firietors, not without some degree of rival- 
ship) from motives of patriotism, or as the means of increasing at 
once their wealth and their influence. At first they were probably 
nothing more than fishing villages ; but^ at an early period, each 
appears to have had its harbour capable of receiving and mooring 
vessels of considerable burden. Part of the expedition to Darien, 
in 1697, was fitted up at Cartsdyke. In the year 1635, John Shaw 
of Greenock, obtained a charter from Charles L, erecting the lands 
of Wester Greenock, and the town and village of Greenock, into 
a burgh of barony. That charter was ratified in the Scottish Par- 
liament in 1641. In the year 1669, Crawfurdsdyke was in like 
manner erected into a burgh of barony by a charter from Charles 
II. And in 1670, another charter was granted by him in favour 
of Sir John Shaw, son of the above-named John Shaw, annexing 
the lands of Finnart, belonging to him, to the barony of Wester 
Greenock, and erecting both into one barony, under the name and 
designation of the Burgh of Greenock, the title given to the first 
barony in the charter of 1635. 

These circumstances afibrd strong presumptive proofs of the ri* 
valry to which we have alluded. And, when we compare some of 
the ancient dwelling-houses in these two towns, it is evident that 
the time was when Crawfurdsdyke was not unworthy of being tbe 
competitor of Greenock, and when it must have equalled, or per- 
haps surpassed its sister burgh, in the respectability and the wealth 
of its inhabitants. That time, however, is long gone by. Green- 
ock and Crawfurdsdyke, each increasing in population, are now one 
town ; their interests are the same ; and no rivalship can exist, or, 
at least, ought to exist between them. It may confidently be pre- 
dicted that, if at any future period, Crawfurdsdyke shall attain to 
any measure of its relative magnitude and importance, it will owe 
its revival or increase chiefly to the extension of the port and trade 
of Greenock ; and its name will become obsolete, and will give 
place to that of its wealthier and more fortunate competitor. 

The trade and town of Greenock having rapidly increased dur- 
ing the first half of the last century. Sir John Shaw, with a libe« 
rality which reflects the highest honour on his memory, gave power 
by charter, in the year 1741, to the feuars and sub-feuars, to meet 
yearly for the purpose of choosing managers of the public funds of 
tbe town, the said funds arising at that time from a voluntary as- 
sessment upon all malt ground at the mills of Wester Greenock* 



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GREENOCK. 415 

Nine years^ thereafter, an act of Parliament wad obtained, impos- 
ing a duty of two pennies Scots on the pint of all ale brewed in the 
town of Greenock, and that for repairing the harbour of Greenock, 
and other purposes mentioned in the said act, the act to continue 
in force for thirty-one years from its commencement on the first 
day of June 1751. 

The passing of the act now mentioned, and the great increase 
of the trade and town, appear to have suggested to Sir John Shaw 
the idea of giving still greater powers to the feuars than had been 
conceded to them by the charter of 1741. Accordingly, on the 2d 
day of September 1751, he was pleased, as baron of the barony of 
Greenock, and burgh of barony thereof, to grant a new charter, in 
which the feuars and sub-feuars, anjd burgesses to be afterwards ad« 
mitted, are authorized to meet yearly, to elect nine persons to be 
magistrates and councillors of the burgh, whereof two to be bailies, 
one to be treasurer, and the other six to be councillors, with power 
to the said bailies and their successors in office, to administer jus- 
tice to the inhabitants ; and to the bailies, treasurer, and council- 
lors, to manage the funds and common good of the town and ba- 
rony ; to make laws for the better government of the same ; to ad-« 
mit burgesses on payment of not more than thirty merks Scots, 
on the admission of each burgess ; and generally to use and exer- 
eise all privileges and jurisdictions as freely as the magistrates and 
council of any other burgh of barony in Scotland do, or may do» 
— the baron bailie for the time being having a cumulative juris- 
diction with the bailies to be chosen by the inhabitants. 

It is, we believe, a singular provision in this charter, — singular we 
mean at that period, — that it gave to the electors not only the right 
of choosing the nine persons who should be invested with the power 
of administering the afiairs of the town, but also the right, within 
certain limitations, of fixing and determining by their vote, which 
of that number should hold the offices of magistrate and treasurer. 

When we consider the period at which this charter was grant- 
ed, the unwillingness which men feel to resign into other hands 
the power which they and their ancestors have possessed, and the 
universal prevalence of the close or self-election system in the 
royal burghs of Scotland, it is scarcely possible for us to exceed 
in our admiration of the enlightened liberality and disinterested- 
ness of the man by whom this precious boon was conferred. Of 
the wisdom and sound policy of the measure, as it respects the in- 
terests of the town of Greenock, and we may add, its baron supe- 

RENFREW. Ee 



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416 KENFREWSHIRE. 

rior, it is impossible to entertain a doubt. The charter of 1751 
may justly be regarded as the foundation-stone of the prosperity 
of Greenock. The privileges which it bestowed gave to the in- 
habitants an interest in its welfare, and a security in the prosecu-^ 
tion of their mercantile undertakings, which they would not other- 
wise have felt and enjoyed : And though the right of electing their 
own civic rulers has given rise occasionally to feuds and animosi- 
ties, these evils have been far more than counterbalanced by the 
advantages which flowed from the exercise of their newly acquired 
privileges. More recently, Greenock has become one of the Par- 
liamentary burghs, with the right of sending a member to Parlia* 
ment ; and the constituency has undergone a very considerable 
change, some of the feuars and sub-feuars being deprived of their 
elective franchise in consequence of their being below the ten pound 
valuation, whilst a large addition has been made to the list on the 
ground of occupancy. It is imposible to say, after so short an ex- 
perience of the working of the new system, whether the change ia 
for the better or the worse. A sober and dispassionate exercise of 
long-desired and newly obtained rights can scarcely be looked for 
all at once. But, comparing abstractly the principles of the 
charter of 1751, and the Burgh Reform Act, it would not, we 
think, be difficult to prove that the principle of the former, name- 
ly, that of confining the right of election to proprietors and bur- 
gesses, is far wiser and more safe, than that of extending it to the 
dependent and less educated classes of the community. A discus-^^ 
sion like this, however, does not come within the range of a Sta- 
tistical Account. 

The following is a list of the magistrates of the town from the 
year 1751 to the present date : 

1751. Robert Donald, James Butcher. ' 1782. Hugh Moody, Robert Lee. 

1753. James Butcher, John Alexander. 1783. Hugh Moody, Robert Lee. 

1756. John Alexander, Gabriel Mathie. 1784. John Kippen, Wm. Fullarton 

1757. John Alexander, James Watt. 1786. Wm. Fullarton, Robert Lee 
1759. Hugh Crawford, Robert Riie. 1787. Robert Lee, Roger Stewart. 
1761. Nathan Wilson, John Campbell. 1788. Roger Stewart, Duncan Campbell. 
1763. John Campbell, James Donald. 1790. Duncan Campbell, Jas Hunter. 
1765. James Donald, Archd. Crawfurd. 1791. James Hunter, James Anderson. 
1767. Archd. Crawfurd, John Campbell. 1792. James Anderson, Francis Garden. 
1769. James Donald, James Wilson. Sept 9. 1798. Francis Garden, Gabriel 
1771. James Donald, James Gammel. Lang. 

1773. James Gammel, Archd. Crawfurd. Sept. 27, 1793. Roger Stewart, Ga- 

1774. James Gammel; Joseph Tucker. briel Lang. 

1775. Joseph Tucker, Robert Lee. 1795. G. X.ang, Hugh Crawfurd, sen. 

1777. Robert Lee, William Donald. 1797. Hugh Crawfurd, Arch. CaropbelU 

1778. Robert Lee, James Gammel. 1798. H, Crawfurd, George Robertson. 

1779. John Buchanan, Hugh Moody. 1799. Geo. Robertson, Walter Ritchie. 
1781. «^ohn Buchanan, Robert Shelmir. 1801. Walter Ritchie, Hugh Crawfurd* 



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GREENOCK. 4 1? 

1808. Hugh Crawford, John Hamiiton. 18S2. Robert Baine, Thomas Turner. . 

1805. John Hamilton, Alex. Dunlop. 1833.* Robert Baine, Provost. 

1807. Alexander Dunlop, James Fairrie. Tho. Turner, James Watt, Wm. 

Sept. 22, 1809. James Fairrie, Hugh Maefie, James Stewart, Bailies. 

Crawfurd. 1834. James Watt, Provost. 

Oct. 6, 1809. Hugh Crawfurd, Duncan William Maefie, James Stuart. 

Macnaught. Jas. Stewart, John Ker, Bailies. 

1811. Hugh Crawfurd, Wm. FuUarton. 1835. William Maefie, Provost.. 

Jan. IS, 1813. H. Crawfurd, Alan Ker. James Stewart, James Stuart. 

Sept. 24, 1813. Alan Ker, Quintin John Ker, Adam Fairrie, Bailies* 

Leitch. ' 1836. WilUam Maefie, Provost. 

1815. Quintin Leitch, Robert Ewing. J. Stuart, Adam Fairrie, Adam 

1817. Quintin Leitch, John Denniston. Macleish, James Scott, Bailies. 

1819. John Denniston, Arch. Baine. 1637. Adam Macleish, Provo6t.f 

1821. A. Baine, Gabriel James Weir. James Scott, Andrew Muir, Wm. 

1823. Arch. Baine, James Ramsay. Martin, Robert Steele, Bailies. 

1825. James Ramsay, William Leitch. 1838. James Scott, Provost, died March 

1826. William Leitch, John Denniston. 1839, and was succeeded by 

1827. William Leitch, James Hunter. Adam Fairrie. 

1828. William Leitch, Robert Ewing. Andrew Muir, Alex. Macallum, 
Sept. 25, 1829. R. Ewing, Jn. Fairrie. William Martin, W. A. Lindsay 
Oct. 14, 1829. John Fairrie, John Bailies. 

Thomson. 1839. Adam Fairrie, Provost. 

Oct. 20, 1829. Jn. Fairrie, Ro. Baine. William Martin, W. A. Lindsay, 

Aug. 31,1831. Ro. Baine, Ro. Steele. Walter Baine, jun. and Thomas 

Sept. 23, 1831. Robert Baine, Thomas Carmichael, Bailies. 

Turner. 

It may be proper to mention here, although it belongs more to 
the history of the county than of a particular parish, that, in the 
year 1815, the three parishes of Greenock, with the parishes of 
Kilmalcolm, Port-Glasgow, and Inverkip, were constituted the 
lower ward of Renfrewshire, and placed under the jurisdiction of 
a sheriff-substitute, who holds his eourts in Greenock, as the chief 
town of the district. Claud Marshall, Esq. the present highly re- 
spected sheriff-substitute, was the first person appointed to that 
office. 

Eminent Men. — There are few parishes which can boast of being 
connected with so great a number of eminent men as Greenock. In 
the family of the Shaws, besides the public-spirited individual the last 
of that name, to whom we have particularly adverted, one of his an- 
cestors, towards the end of the sixteenth century, distinguished him- 
self by his zeal for the Protestant religion; another by his bravery 
in the wars of tlvB Commonwealth, fighting on the King's side. The 
last Sir John acquired no less renown by his vigorous exertions in 
favour of the House of Hanover and the existing Government, 
during the Rebellion in 1715. In the family of Shaw Stewart, 
the descendants, as we have seen, of a female branch of the Shaws 
of Greenock, there have appeared some of the most accomplished 

* The drst election after the Bursh Reform Bill. 

t Mr James Stewart was elected Provost this year, but died on the day after hif 
election, deeply lamented; Mr Macleish was fleeted in his room. 



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418 RENFREWSHIRE. 

men of the age in which they lived. Members of both these fa- 
milies have represented the county of Renfrew in Parliament. Sir 
John Shaw sat in that capacity in the first British Parliament, in 
1708-9-10. He was returned again for the same county in 1727, 
and continued in the representation till 1734. Mr (afterwards 
Sir John) Shaw Stewart was chosen member for Renfrewshire in 
1780, and again in 1786 and 1790 ; and the late Sir Michael 
Shaw Stewart, father of the present Sir Michael, was commis* 
sioner for that county in several successive Parliaments. 

James Watt. — Other persons might be mentioned whose literary 
fame and scientific acquirements shed no small degree of lustre on 
the town and parish of which we write. But it is no disparagement to 
them, or to the men of high birth and ancient pedigree whose charac- 
ter and history we have briefly recorded, to affirm, that Greenock has 
had the transcendant honour of giving birth to a man whose lame 
far exceeds that of all the warriors and statesmen whom Scotland 
has ever produced. That man is the late celebrated and amiable 
James Watt, the improver of the steam-engine. He was the son 
of James Watt, wright, ship-builder, and builder, in Greenock, 
and was born in that town on the 19th January 1736, in a house 
which, though somewhat altered, still continues to stand. He 
spent the earlier years of his life in Greenock, and received the 
rudiments of his education there. Discovering a strong inclina- 
tion to the study of mechanics, he went to London in his eight- 
eenth year, and remained a year under the tuition of a maker of 
mathematical instruments. Soon after his return from London, he 
resolved to establish himself in that profession in Glasgow, and 
after encountering some difficulties in the accomplishment of his 
object, the professors gave him apartments within the college as 
mathematical instrument maker to the university. He thus be- 
jcame acquainted with Dr Black, and Mr (afterwards Professor) 
John Robison, who held him in the highest esteem, and had fre- 
<iuent conversations with him on scientific subjects. There he 
continued till the year 1763, when he took up his residence in the 
town, and soon after married his cousin, Miss Miller. In the year 
1761, he commenced that series of experiments which terminat- 
ed in 1765 in what may be termed his great discovery, and in 
the improvements which that discovery suggested, namely, the 
condensing of steam in a separate vessel exhausted of air, and 
kept cool by cold water injection, and the moving of the piston by 
steam instead of atmospheric pressure. While engaged in mak- 



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GREENOCK. 419 

ing the ezperiaients which led to these improvements, he ap- 
proached very oear to Dr Black's celebrated discovery of latent 
heati which was then for the first time communicated to him 
by Dr Black. In the year 1769, he secured his title to his im- 
provement for saving steam and fuel in fire-engines, by patent, 
— Dr Roebuck of the Carron Iron Works, who assisted him in the 
practical application of his invention, having a share of the patent 
After this Dr Roebuck was induced, for certain considerations, to 
transfer his share of the patent to Mr Boulton of Soho, near Bir- 
mingham, and Mr Watt entered into partnership with Mr Boul- 
ton as a steam-engine manufacturer. An act for prolonging the 
patent for twenty-five years was obtained in 1775, and the busi- 
ness was commenced under the firm of Boulton and Watt. The 
steam-engine had hitherto been applied only to the pumping of 
water. His inventive genius was next employed in applying the 
power of steam to giving a rotatory motion to mills ; and his con- 
. trivances for this purpose were secured to him by patents in the 
years 1781, 1782, 1784, and 1785. He brought the steam-en- 
gine to its perfection by the application of the centrifugal regulat- 
ing force of the governor. 

The discoveries and contrivances which we have thus briefly de- 
tailed, entitle Mr Watt to the name of the inventor^ as Mr Jeffrey 
has justly observed, rather than the improver of the steam-engine. 
^^ It was," says that eloquent writer, ^^ by his inventions that its 
action was so regulated as to make it capable of being applied to 
th& finest and most delicate manufactures, and its power so in- 
creased as to set weight and solidity at defiance. By his admirable 
contrivances it has become a thing stupendous alike for its force 
and its flexibility — for the prodigious power which it can exert, 
and the ease, and precision, and ductility with which it can be va- 
ried, distributeil, and applied The trunk of an elephant that can 
pick up a pin, or rend an oak, is as nothing to it It can engrave 
a seal, and crush niiasses of obdurate metal like wax before it — 
draw out without breaking a thread as fine as gossamer, and lift a 
ship of war like a bauble in the air. It can embroider muslin, and 
forge anchors, cut steel into ribbands, and impel loaded vessels 
against the fury of the winds and waves.'* 

In the earlier part of Mr Watt's life, and before he entered in- 
to partnership with Mr Boulton, he was employed as a civil en- 
gineer, and in that capacity made surveys for the Crinan, the Ca- 
ledonian, and other canals, which have since been executed with 



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420 RENFREWSHIUE. 

some rariations. Id these surveys he made use of a new micro- 
meter, and a machine for drawing in perspectiye, both of his own 
inventing. These, with other ingenious contrivances, will be found 
explained or detailed in the Supplement to the Encyclopaedia 
Britannicn, (Art. Watt,) from which the facts stated in this brief 
memoir have been derived » 

In 1800, upon the expiry of the act of Parliament passed in his &* 
vour, he withdrew from business, resigning his shares to his two sons. 
He continued, however, to the close of life to interest himself in 
the pursuits of his former years, and gave proofs of the undiminish- 
ed powers of an uncommonly vigorous and active mind. With 
faculties little impaired he reached his eighty-fourth year, when, 
after a short illness, he expired in the bosom of his family, at 
Heathfield, in the county of Stafford, on the 25th August 1819.* 

Mr Watt was elected a Member of the Royal Society, Edin- 
burgh, in 1784; of the Royal Society of London in 1785; and a 
Corresponding Member of the Batavian Society in 1787. In I8O69 
the degree of Doctor of Laws was conferred upon him by the Uni- 
versity of Glasgow; and in 1808 he was elected first a Corre- 
sponding, and afterwards a Foreign Member of the Institute of 
France. 

* Since writing the preceding paragraphs, the compiler of this accAiint has seen a 
translation of the life of Mr Watt, by M. Arago, Perpetual Secretary of the Frepcb 
Academy of Sciences, in which he claims for Mr Watt the honour of being the first 
to discover the composition of water. He states, that, in the month of April 1763, 
Dr Priestley had proved that the weight of water deposited on the sides of a vessel 
in which oxygen and hydrogen have been detonated, is precisely the same as the 
weights of the two gases, and that Priestley communicated this result to Watt, who 
wrote to him in return — «* What are the products of your experiment ? TTiey are 
water, light, and heat. Are we not thence authorized to conclude, that water is a 
compound of the two gases, oxygen and hydrogen, deprived of a portion of their latent 
or elementary heat ; that oxygen is water deprived of its hydrogen, but still united 
to its latent heat and light ? If light be only a modification of heat, or a simple cir- 
cumstance of its manifestation, or a component part of hydrogen, oxygen gas will b« 
water deprived of its hydrogen, but combined with latent heat." lliis passage was 
taken from a letter of Watt's, dated 26th April 178a The letter was oommunicated 
by Priestley to several of the scientific men in London ; and was transmitted imme- 
diately afterwards to Sir Joseph Banks, the President of the Royal Society, to be read 
at one of the meetings of that body. M. Arago states, that circumstances retarded 
the reading of the letter for about a year ; but that it appears in the seventy-fourth 
volume of the Transactions, with ita true date April 26th 1789. The memoir of 
Cavendish on the same subject was read on the ]5th January 1784. Sir Charles 
Blagden, defending the claim of Mr Cavendish in opposition to M. Lavoisier, says, that 
Mr Cavendish arrived at the conclusion contained in his memoir during the spring of 
the year 1783, and thai *< about the same time the news reached London that Mr WaU 
of Birmingham had been led by some observations to a similar opinion.** The facta 
contained in this statement afford very strong reasons for assigning the honour of this 
brilliant discovery to Dr Priestley and Mr Watt. It is a very singular circumstance 
in the history of the discovery, that a considerable time elapsed before Dr Priestley 
was periuaded of the soundness of Mr Watt*s conclusion, insomuch that he (Dr 
Priestley) actually set himself to disprove it by experimenta carried on expressly for 
that purpose. 



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GUEENOCK. 421 

' He was married twice, and had children by each marriage, but 
only one survived him. His youngest son, Mr Gregory Watt, 
died soon after he was admitted to a share in his father's business^ 
but not before he had given splendid proofs of Uterary and philo- 
sophical talents. A daughter was married but predeceased him,^ 
leaving two children. He left a widow, the daughter of Mr 
M'Grigqr of Clober. She died in 1832. 

The character of Mr Watt has been drawn with inimitable 
beauty by the pen of Mr Jeffrey. After referring to his varied 
and exact information on almost all subjects, and to his astonishing 
memory, and his power of digesting and arranging his information, 
the writer proceeds thus : — 

** It is needless to say that with those vast resources his con.-* 
versation was at all times rich and instructive in no ordinary de-^ 
gree ; but it was, if possible, still more pleasing than wise, and had 
all the charms of familiarity with all the substantial treasures of 
knowledge. No man could be more social in his spirit, less as- 
suming or fastidious in his manners, or more kind or indid^enC 
towards all who approached him. • « ♦ 

His talk too, though overflowing with information, had no resem^ 
blance to lecturing or solemn discoursing, but, on the contrary, 
was full of colloquial spirit and pleasantry. He had a certain quiet 
and grave humour, which ran through most of his conversation, 
and a vein of temperate jocularity which gave infiniie zest and 
effect to the condensed and inexhaustible information which formed 
its main staple and characteristic • » • His voice 
was deep and powerful, though he commonly spoke in a low and 
somewhat monotonous tone, which harmonized admirably with the 
weight and brevity of his observations, and set off to the greatest 
advantage the pleasant anecdotes which he delivered with the same 
grave brow, and the same calm smile playing soberly on his lips. 
* ♦ ♦ He had in his character the utmost ab- 
horrence for all sorts of forwardness, parade, and pretension ; and 
never failed to put all such impostors out of countenance by the 
manly plainness and honest intrepidity of his language and deport-* 
ment. In his temper and disposition he was not only kind and 
affectionate, but generous and considerate of the feelings of all 
around him, and gave the most liberal assistance to all young per- 
sons who showed any indications of talent, or applied to him for 
patr9nage or advice." * ♦ * - 

Mr Jeffrey closes his eulogium with these words : '' All men 



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422 RENFREWSHIRE* 

of learning and iscience were his cordial friends ; and such was the 
influence of his mild character, and perfect fairness and liberality^ 
even upon the pretenders to these accomplishments, that he lived 
to disarm even envy itself, and died, we verily believe, without a 
Mngle enemy." 

To this beautiful eulogium by Mr Jeffrey, of which we have 
given only an abridgement, we add the following paragraphs from 
the conclusion of the Life of James Watt by M • Arago* 

** Such is a very brief sketch of the benefits bequeathed to the 
world by that machine of which Papin had in his works deposited 
the germ, and which, after so many ingenious efforts, Watt has 
brought to an admirable perfection. Those benefits posterity will 
never compare with works which have been far too much vaunted, 
and the real influence of which, at the bar of reason, will remain 
for ever confined to a limited circle of individuab, and a small 
number of years. 

*\ Men formerly spoke of the Augustan age, and the age of Louis 
XIV. Some great men have ere now maintained that it would be 
right to say the age of Voltaire, of Rousseau, of Montesquieu. For 
*my own part, I have no hesitation in predicting, that when to 
the immense services already rendered by the steam-engine shall 
be added all the wonders which it yet holds out in prospect, 
grateful nations will also speak of the ages of Papin and Watt." ^ 

The estimation in which Mr Watt was held by his fellow- 
countrymen, and the value that was attached to his discoveries, 
were evinced by the public meetings which took place soon after 
his death in almost every great town in the empire, with the view 
of doing honour to his memory. A meeting was held for this pur* 
pose in the metropolis, at which Lord Liverpool, Mr (now Sir 
Robert) Peel, Mr Brougham, Mr Huskisson, Mr Wilberforce^ 
and other eminent statesmen were speakers, and resolutions were 
passed honourable alike to the living and the dead. A similar 
meeting was held in Glasgow, and attended by its mostdistingubh^ 
ed citizens. The birth-place of Mr Watt did not fail in these 
demonstrations of respect for his character and attainments. A 
meeting was held there on the 20th July 1824, at which it was 
resolved to erect in Greenock a monument to his memory ; and a 
subscription was opened, which amounted in the course of six 
months to upwards of L. 1 500. A second general meeting, called 

* Historical Elqge, by M. Arago; translated by James Patrick Muirbead, Ebq* 
Pp. 151, 152. 



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GREENOCK. 423 

by public advertisement, was held in the Assembly Rooms on tha 
80th August 1826. Sir Michael Shaw Stewart presided, and 
Mr James Watt, son of the deceased Mr Watt, being in Greenock, 
and having expressed a wish that the money subscribed (then 
amounting to L.170d,) should be expended in procuring a statue' 
by Cbantrey, and having promised on that condition to give a li- 
beral donation towards the erection of a building for its reception, 
the subscribers, though of different opinions respecting the kind 
of monument to be erected, acquiesced unanimously in this propo^ 
sal, and resolved accordingly. Mr Watt being then invited to 
attend the meeting, the resolution was read to him by the chair- 
man — whereupon he (Mr Watt) stated that his father had enter- 
tained a strong desire to contribute to the only institution which 
Greenock possessed of a literary and scientific description, namely, 
the public library, and that, following out his father's intention, 
he purposed to give the sum of L. 2000,* ^^ to be employed in the 
erection of a building for the library, of which the statue should 
form the principal ornament," leaving it open to others to add to 
that sum if their views should extend farther. At the same time 
he expressed a wish that the site and plan of the building should 
be fixed by himself, but did not insist on that as part of the stipu- 
lation. The committee appointed to carry the resolution into 
effect most willingly left it to Mr Watt to decide on the plan. He 
procured a plan accordingly. After some delay on fixing on the 
site, the library was erected on the south-west side of Union Street, 
The statue was brought from London, and under the eye of Sir 
F. Chantrey himself, was placed in an alcove, prepared for it op* 
posite to the principal entrance. 

The building is after a plan by Dr Blore. It is in what is called 
the old English style of architecture, and when finished will pro-* 
bably have a fine imposing appearance. But the middle is the 
only part yet executed. Two wings have yet to be built, the one 
to contain a reading-room, and the other a house for the librarianw 
No steps have yet been taken for completing the execution of tba^ 
plan. But we cannot believe that a public building, which will ul- 
timately prove so great an ornament to the town, will be permitted 
to remain long in its present unfinished condition. 

The statue is of white marble, and is regarded by competent 
judges, not only as one of the best of Sir Francis Chantrey 's pro- 

* I1iis handsome donation was afterwards raised to L. 3000. 



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424 RRNKUEWSHIUE. 

ductionsy but as one of the finest specimens of the art. The distin* 
guished and venerable philosopher is represented in a sitting pos- 
ture, as in the statues erected to his memory in Westminster Ab- 
bey, and at Glasgow. With one hand he is grasping a double 
sheet of paper, supposed to be a plan, with the other he is apply* 
ing a pair of compasses to the paper before him. The statue 
is placed on a high pedestal, with a tablet in front, on which 
there is the following inscription, composed by Mr (now Lord) 
Jeffrey : 

The 

Inhabitants of Greenock 

Have erected this statue of 

James Watt. 

Not to extend a lame 

Already identified with 

'Ihe miracles of steam, 

But to testify 

The pride and rererence 

IrVith which He is remembered 

In the place of his Natirity, 

And their deep sense 

Of the great benefits 

His genius has conferred 

On mankind. 

Bom zix January mdcczzzvi.* 

Died at Heathfield, 

In Staffordshire, 

August ZZV. MDCCCZXI. 

Bigtorieal Events. — Neither the town nor the rural part of this pa- 
rish has been the scene of any important events in the history of Scot- 
land. The ruined towers, the remains of ancient castles and places of 
strength which are known to have existed, or still continue tostandin 
this neighbourhood, too clearly show, that, like other parts of Scot* 
land, Greenock and thesurrounding country were scourged by those 
petty and often sanguinary struggles which were the disgrace of the 
feudal age, as well as by the predatory incursions of the inhabitants 
of the mountains on the opposite shore. But it does not appear,, 
either from history or tradition, that any signal battle was fought 
within the boundaries of this parish. The compiler does not know 
of any pieces of ancient armour being dug up. There are no 
obelisks, no tumuli, no ruins of ancient camps or forts, leading u» 
to infer that the soil has been the field of any long-continued war* 
fare, or even of any very bloody conflict. It is somewhat surpris- 
ing that, except the remains of the old Castle of Wester Greenock, 
which are in a great measure concealed from the eye by the addi- 
tions which have been made to it in comparatively modern times. 



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GREENOCK. 425 

we have no antiquities of any description. The name Kilblain» 
applied to a part of the town, would seem to indicate that, at some 
former period, a religious house did stand on the spot which has 
received that appellation ; but no ruins of convents or monas- 
teries, or even of Popish chapels, exist, or are known to have ex- 
isted in this place. The author of the first Statistical Account 
affirms that a chapel, dedicated to St Laurence, once stood near 
the bay of Greenock and Crawfurdsdike, which, he says, was an« 
ciently called St Laurence Bay, from the chapel near it. But be 
has not given his authority for this statement, and its accuracy is^ 
to say the least of it, extremely doubtful. 

Modem Buildings. — The only modern buildings requiring to be 
noticed under the head of Civil History are : 

L The mansion-house of the Greenock family on the eminence 
overhanging the town. A small part of this building, as we have 
already mentioned, appears to be of great antiquity. The remain- 
der consists of additions made in the earlier half of the seventeenth 
and eighteenth centuries. It is said that the last of these addi- 
tions was planned and executed by Mr Watt, the father of the ce- 
lebrated philosopher, whose life and history we have briefly re- 
corded. 

2. The Town Hall, built in 1766, after a plan by Mr Watt. 
It appears from the burgh records, excerpts from which have been 
kindly communicated to the compiler by Mr George Williamson, 
writer, that, before the erection of that building, the- magistrates 
had held their courts in a wooden shed in William Street, which 
served the three-fold purposes of town-hall, post-office, and fire- 
engine house. We mention this circumstance for the purpose of 
showing how far behind the town of Greenock was at the middle 
of last century, and how rapidly it has grown since that period. 

3. The Jail or Bridewell, erected in 1810. It contains 30 cells 
for criminals, and 5 for debtors. 

4. The Sheriff- Court House, almost contiguous to the jail. It ' 
was built by militia reversion money, and subscriptions from the 
county and private persons ; and was completed and first occupied 
in 1834. It consists of a very handsome, well-proportioned hall 
for a court-room, apartments for jurymen and witnesses, and 
chambers for the sheriff and sheriff-clerk. Before its erection, 
the sheriff-substitute held his court in the town hall. 

At the same time that the sheriff-court house was built, there 



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426 RENFREWSHIRK. 

were built, attached to it, apartments for the Post*office and Pn^ 
vident Bank. 

It does not appear to be necessary to mention particularly the 
erection of the Exchange Buildings, and Assembly Rooms ; of the 
Tontine ; the News-room in Cathcart Square, and other public 
buildings of minor importance. In the news-room in Cathcart 
Square, there is a very well drawn portrait (a copy) of Sir John 
Shaw, the founder of the commercial prosperity of GreenocL 
The original appears to have been drawn when he was very 
young. 

III. — Population. 

Mr Wilson* mentions that, according to a survey for the pur- 
pose of a general poll-tax in 1695, there were in all Greenock, 
367 families, which, reckoning 4^ for each family, made the po- 
pulation 1651. The number of births registered in 1700 was 
86. Taking these two sources of information together, we may 
con6dently conclude that the population of this parish, at the be- 
ginning of last century, was about 2000, and rather below than 
above that number. 

A second census was taken in 1735, apparently with a view to 
the erection of a new parish ; and the following is the copy of a 
document affixed to one of die volumes of the records of the town 
counciL 



In the toirn of Greenock, above 8 years, 

under do. - • 650 

Country paruib, Sir John Shaw*s tenants, abore 8 years* - 926 

under do. - 72 

Cartsdike, town and country, above 8 years, - - 500 

under do. - - 129 

4100 

The population, therefore, of the whole parish had more than 
doubled in the first thirty-five years of the last century. 

Supposing the enumeration in 1735 to be correct, and we have 
no reason for doubting its accuracy, the population must have de- 
creased during the next twenty years, for, according to the return 
to Dr Webster in 1755, it was as follows : 

In the old parish, 1886 

In the new, 1972 

Total in both parishes, 8858 

^^ About the year 1760," says the author of the former Statis- 
tical Account, ^^ the town began to increase rapidly, and continu- 

* General Vieir. 



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GREBNOCK. 427 

ed to do 80 till the American war, which occasioned almost an en- 
tire stagnation of its trade/' Accordingly, the population of the 
old and new parishes in 1781, is declared by Semple in his* con- 
tinuation of Crawford's Renfrewshire, to be 12,000 : in other word% 
it bad, according to that authority, more than tripled in twenty-six 
years. We think the number exaggerated* The births registered in 
1782, were 403, from which we should be inclined to infer that 
the population did not then exceed 10,000; at the same time, it 
must be admitted that the registration of births is so imperfect, 
that it scarjcely affords ground for any certain conclusion. In 
1790, we find the births registered to be 508, indicating an addi* 
tion of one-fifth to the population, during the nine immediately pre* 
ceding years. An accurate enumeration of the inhabitants was 
taken in January 1 792, from which it appeared that there were 
in the two parishes, 3387 families, or 14,299 persons, of whom 
6,766 were males, and 7,533 were females. This enumeration 
was exclusive of seamen abroad at the time of the census ; these 
included, the population had nearly quadrupled from 1735 to 
1792. 

Since that period, the increase of the population, according to 
the Government census, is as follows : 

Mak«. Females. Total. 

In 1801, . 8,196 . 9,262 17,458 

1811, . 7,978 11,064 . 19,042 

1821, . 9,381 . 12,707 . 22,068 

1831, . 11,978 . 15,598 . 27,571 

It is not easy to say how many ought to be added to each of 
the sums total in the numbers now given, on account of seamen, 
carpenters, coopers, and others on shipboard at the time of the 
enumeration. The amount differs by many hundreds at different 
seasons of the ^ear ; but we shall not greatly err by taking it at 
2000, which, added to the population of 1831, makes the num** 
ber of males at the time of that census, 13,973, and the whole 
population, 29,571, or about fifteen times greater than it was at 
the commencement of last century. 

By the census in 1831, there were in the three parishes into 
which Greraock was then divided, 6,353 families, distributed as 
follows : 

Agriculture. Handieraft. Other employmenU. 
East parish, . 1047 • 51 • 688 . d06 

Middle or New, ' 1868 . . 1594 . 348 

Old or West, . 8424 • 51 « 1599 1754 

6353 ~102 38^1 2410 



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428 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Taking tfie population at 279571, the average number in each 
^Bimiiy is 4§ ^|§ ; but adding seamen and others not at home at the 
time of the census^ and making the whole population 29,57 1, the 
average number is 4|}|$ 

Looking to the first of the tables which have now been given, 
the reader can scarcely fail to observe; the great inequality of the 
sexes in point of numbers. Even when we add the absent sea* 
fiaen, the disproportion is considerable* In 1811, there was, with 
this addition, an excess of females amounting to 1086. In 1821, 
the excess with this addition was 1826 ; and in 1831, there was a 
similar excess, amounting to 1625. The disparity is occasioned 
chiefly by the casualties inseparable from a sea-faring life* The 
inequality, however, is not so great as in some manufacturing towns. 
Paisley may be taken as an example. In 1801, there were in that 
town, and in part of the Abbey parish adjoining, 14,413 males, 
and 16,766 females, the disparity amounting to 2353. In 1811, 
there were 16,457 males, and 20,265 females, or an excess of fe- 
males of 3808. * From this comparative statement, it appears 
that the disproportion between the sexes, occasioned by the un- 
faealthful occupations, and the vices of a manufacturing town, is 
considerably greater than in the sea-port town of Greenock. 

About 600 of the whole population reside in the lahdward or 
country part of the parish, and in villages so small as to be scarcely 
worthy of the name; the remainder in the towns of Greenock and 
Crawfurdsdike. Both in town and country, there are a considera- 
ble number of persons upwards of seventy. A short time ago, a 
person belonging to the town of Greenock died in his hundredth 
and fourth year. His name was John Shannon. He was a native 
of Campbelltown, but spent the latter part of his life in Greenock, 
pursuing at different periods the occupations of pilot* and fisherman. 
He was a remarkably hale stout old man, and when past his hun- 
dredth year, walked with ease upwards of two miles in a forenoon, 
the wind blowing a hurricane. It is scarcely necessary to add, 
that he was an object of considerable interest to those who knew 
him, and a great favourite with many of them. He continued in 
full possession of all his faculties till a short time before his 
death. 

Character of the People. — The population consists of persons 
of very different degrees of wealth, and of ver^ different habits 

* It 19 ft Bingulftr fkct, that the disproportion it less by census 1821 and I83I. 



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GREENOCK. 429 

and character. Of the three proprietors of land between whom 
the parish is divided, none ever reside in it. But some of our ship- 
builders, merchants, and manufacturers, are men of large and in- 
dependent fortune, constantly residing within the parish, and dis- 
tinguished for their liberality and beneficence. Of the class next 
to them in afSuence, it may^be said with truth, that there is a very 
large proportion of very high respectability, both in point of intel-* 
lectual cultivation, and moral character, and attention to the duties 
and ordinances of religion. In the working-classes, there are not 
. a few of the same description, exhibiting in the neatness and clean- 
liness of their dwellings and persons, strong presumptive proofs of 
sound religious and moral principle, and of their enjoying the com- 
forts which flow from these, and from the prosperity of the town 
in which they live. It is deeply to be lamented, however, that, 
as we descend in the scale, we meet witbthe most mournful signs 
of moral deterioration — infidelity shedding its baleful influence 
over the minds and habits of the poor ; intemperance laying waste 
their bodily frame, and destroying the peace of their families, and 
both together inducing a habitual disregard of the Sabbath day, 
and a sullen contempt of the house of God, and the truths and so- 
lemn obligations of Christianity. If there be any truth in the de- 
scriptions given of the character of our Scottish peasantry, and ar- 
tisans, fifty or a hundred years ago, the change which has taken 
place during that period is such as to awaken the sorrow, and to call 
forth the enlightened zeal and beneficence of every friend of reli- 
gion and of his fellow men. 

Proofs of these mournful statements will be given under a fu- 
ture head^ and the causes of the degeneracy referred to will be 
pointed out. Meanwhile it is no more than justice to the inha- 
bitants of Greenock to remark, that where the population is dense, 
intemperance and licentiousness are too frequently the vices of 
persons of all ranks; and sea-port towns are more than others ex- 
posed to that moral contagion. To this we may add that associa- 
tions for other purposes, by bringing together men of very different 
and opposite principles, have exerted a most injurious influence on 
the working classes ; and the immigration from other quarters, of 
families, unaccustomed from their infancy to the habits of a well- 
coaditioned Scottish population, has tended not a little to lower 
the standard by which they were wont to regulate their con- 
duct ; yet it may be fairly questioned whether, notwithstanding 



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430 RENFREWSHIRE. 

. all these unfavourable circumstances, there has been as great a 
moral deterioration here as in other towns equally populous, and 
exposed to the same temptations. 

It is satisfactory to be able to state, that neither poaching nor 
smuggling prevails to any extent. 

Pawnbroking is a trade which can thrive only when the people 
are unprosperous either from losses in trade, or want of employ- 
ment, or vicious habits. The first pawnbroker in Greenock began 
business about nine years ago. There are now four licensed pawn- 
brokers carrying on a very extensive business; and upwards of 
thirty, many of whom are not licensed, who purchase clothing and 
furniture, which they re-sell to the original owners at a large pro- 
fit, or remove out of the reach of the lawful creditor. 

The last of these practices is evidently the same in effect with 
pawnbroking. It is an ingenious method of evading the law, and the 
expense of license. The rapid increase of both affords a melan- 
choly proof of declining morals. For it is to intemperance chiefly 
that pawnbroking owes its growth, and its present flourishing con- 
dition. Pawnbroking in its turn affords great facilities to the in- 
dulgence of that vice, and presents a strong temptation to thefi: 
with a view to the gratification of intemperate habits. We 
are compelled to add, that in families where the pawning of 
goods is practised, the wife is in general the offender. The dis- 
solute habits of the husband may on some occasions leave the wife 
and family so destitute of the means of subsistence, as to present to 
the sober wife the plea of necessity ; but more frequently the intem- 
perance of the wife not only consumes a large portion of the hard- 
wrought-eamings of the sober, industrious husband, but strips his 
once comfortable and well-furnished dwelling of almost every ar- 
ticle belonging to him. There are houses in Greenock, and pro- 
bably in every large town in Britain, where, in consequence of the 
intemperance of the husband or wife, or both, and the practice of 
pawning in conhection with it, there is no furniture of any descrip- 
tion — no bedstead, no table, no chair ; nothing but a wretched 
stool, a chest containing all the property of the inhabitants, and 
some dirty wood-shavings, on which to repose their weary limbs. 
Cobbet remarked, with regard to the poor in Ireland, that the pigs 
in England were better lodged and accommodated than they. 
The remark may be applied to some of the working poor (not all 
Irish) in Greenock, and elsewhere; and the root of this degradar- 
tion and misery is intemperance. Tee-totalism, with its ostenta- 



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GREKNOCK. 43 [ 

fious and iffiposiog macfainf ry, substituting, as it does, responsibi- 
lity to man for responsibility to God, will never prevail against 
that hi4eous vice^ or remove this pestilential scourge of Scottish 
society. Th^ blessing of God resting on the diffusion of pure re- 
ligious knowledge, and the persevering efforts of masters, heads 
ef fiimilies, and others, to abolish what have been called the ^< drink- 
ing usages," can alone avail to the restraining of the vice of in- 
temperance, and realize the wish of every Christian philanthropist 
Cor the revival of the sober industrious habits of Scottish artisans. 
lY. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — Robertson, in his Continuation of Crawfurd's His- 
tpry of Eenfrewshire, states the total number of acres (Scotch) in 
this parish to be 6365; of which 2315 were arable ; 930 in sound 
pasture ; 8780 moor land ; 300 were taken up for sites of houses, 
roads, &c. ; and 40 were covered widi wood, natural or planted. 
Babertson published his Continuation in 1818. Since that time, 
with the exception of a few acres of thin soil, which have been 
planted, and perhaps an equal number recently taken up as the 
aites of villas in the neighbourhood of the town, scarcely any change 
has taken place in the distribution of the ground of which the pa- 
rish is composed. It is evident, from what has been already said 
of its general aspect, that little or no addition can be made to the 
laad now under cultivation, with any prospect of an adequate re- 
turn. It may, indeed, be questioned whether it might not be pro- 
fitable to drain a part, at least, of the oieadow-land now devoted 
to the raising of winter fodder. With that exception, and per- 
haps it ought not to be made, it is obviously the wisest course to 
permit the uncultivated ground to remain in its present state, at 
least, to abstain fropi bringing it under tillage, applying to it only 
that valuable improvement of modern times, surface-draining, and 
such other means of cultivation as may be suited to the nature of 
the soil, and afford th^ reasonable expectation of an early and suf- 
ficient return. 

Bent of Land. — The qompiler has not been able to ascertain 
yith any degree of accuracy the average rent of arable land within 
ibe parish. The greater number of the farms having a proportion 
of pasture and meadow land joined with arable, it is impossible for 
the landlord to inake even an approximation to the truth on this 
subject. Mr Wilson states the average rental in the whole county 
js I70$« jto base been lOs. 24* per Scotch acjre, and suppose^ 18s. 
8d. to be very near the average in 1812. The rent of land has 

RENFREW. r f 



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432 RENFREWSHIRE* 

fallen considerably since that period ; but the rent of s^rable land 
in the neighbourhood of a populous town like Greenock, if taken 
separately, would probably be found considerably above the highest 
average. In making this computation, we exclude the rental of 
small parcels of ground within the burgh, or in its immediate neigh- 
bourhood. The fixed rent of ground of that description is Is. per 
fall, or L. 8 per acre. 

Rate of Waffes. — Farm-servants receive of wages from L. 6 to 
L. 8 in the half-year, with bed, board, and washing. The wages 
of day-labourers are, for good workmen, in winter, 2s. and in sum- 
mer, 2s. 6d, per day. 

Live-Stockf Sfc. — The black-faced, or Highland^breed, is the only 
breed of sheep in this parish. The cattle are of the Ayrshire 
breed, and of late years have been greatly improved. An annual 
cattle-show, under the auspices of a committee of the Highland 
Society, has contributed much to the amelioration of the stock. 
Mr Marshall, our worthy Sheriff-substitute, is the moving spring 
of that committee. 

The practice of furrow-draining has recently been applied with 
much sqrcess to land under tillage. Lime, procured from a great 
distance, is used as a manure to a considerable extent. 

The land is let in general oa a lease of nineteen years. 

The late Sir Michael Shaw Stewart applied himself with great 
zeal, and at very considerable expense, to the improvement of the 
farm-buildings and enclosures on his estate, particularly the former. 

We are not aware of any special obstacles in the way of farther 
improvement in the branch of industry to which these observa- 
tions refer. 

Quarries. — The only quarries worked in the parish of Greenock 
are of sandstone. Even these are not worked to any great extent. 
The red sandstone in the neighbouring parishes of Gourock and 
Inverkip is preferred ; and the finer kinds of white or gray sand- 
stone for polished ashlar are brought by water from quarries on 
the banks of the Forth and Clyde and Union Canals. 

The Shaw's Water-Worhs. — Before proceeding to give an 
enumeration of the manufactories in this parish, we would call the 
attention of our readers to a most ingeniously contrived plan for 
the creation of water-power, a plan we believe, altogether sin- 
gular in the history of manufactures in this or in any other 
country ; executed at a comparatively small expense, and in actual 
operation during the last thirteen years. 



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GUEENOCK. 433 

About twenty years ago^ the inhabitants of Greenock were ex- 
tremely incommoded by the scarcity of water for domestic and other 
purposes ; and the attention of Sir Michael Shaw Stewart, the 
lord of the manor, and grandfather of the present Sir MichaeU 
being directed to that subject, Mr Robert Thorn, civil-engineer* 
and proprietor of the Rothesay Cotton Works, a man of great 
fertility of invention, and extraordinary mechanical genius, was re- 
quested by Sir Michael, to inspect the grounds and streams in 
the vicinity of Greenock, in order to ascertain the resources they 
afforded for supplying that town with water. Mr Thom's inge- 
nuity having been successfully exerted in conducting and econo- 
mizing a supply of water for his works at Rothesay, it was sug- 
gested to him by Sir Michael Shaw Stewart, that he should also 
report whether a similar supply might not be obtained for manu- 
factories in the town of Greenock. Mr Thom undertook the sur- 
vey with these two objects in view. It was executed early in 
1824; and a report was drawn up by him, addressed to Sir Mi- 
chael Shaw Stewart, which has since been printed, and is to be found 
in the appendix to the " Brief Account of the Shaw's Water Scheme.** 
In the commencement of the report, Mr Thom states that a plen- 
tiful suppl> of water for thetown and its public work<, as they 
then existed, was ^ a matter of comparatively easy accomplish- 
ment.'* The remainder of the report is occupied entirely with a 
general outline of the plan for the creation of the water-power. 
The following brief description will, we trust, make it intelligible 
to strangers. 

On the south-west side of the highest rising ground above 
Greenock, and between two and three miles from the town, is the 
source pf the " Shaw's Water," a small rivulet, which, uniting with 
other streams, falls into the sea between Ardgowan House and the 
town of Inverkip. Mr Thom proposed to form by embankment, 
a large reservoir at the source of this rivulet, and thence to con- 
duct the water round the hill by an open aqueduct, till it should 
reach at as high a level as could be afforded a small reservoir at 
Overton, on the face of the rising-ground above-mentioned. From 
the last of these reservoirs he proposed that the' water should be 
let down in two diverging branches, one descending on the west- - 
ern, and the other on the eastern extremity of the town, each con- 
taining falls of different degrees of power, to suit the convenience 
of manufacturers. The large reservoir, he proposed, should cover 
upwards of 200 Scotch acres, and contain 200,000,000 of cubic 



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434 RENFREWSUIKE. 

feet of watery the lea^h of the aqueduct, between it, and what 
may be called the terminating resenroir, he computed at about six 
miles and a-half. Besides these, he proposed, if necessary, to form 
siiL small n^servoirs ip the hollows of the rising ground above the 
aqueduct, to ensuce an abundant supply of water in the driest sea- 
sons. 

This splendid scheme has been carried into execution, except^ 
ing the formation of the western line, or branch of falls ; and of 
four of the small reservoirs, found to be superfluous. In June 
1S25, *^ the ShaW's Water Joint Stock Company, with a capital 
of L. 31,^0, was incorporated by Act of Parliament, and in less 
than three years from that date, the grand reservoir began to send 
forth its supply of water ; and mills for various purposes were 
erected on the line of its descent. The experience of thirteen years 
has more than realized, in one respect, the most sanguine expec- 
tations of the projector. During that period, there has not been 
the slightest deficiency of water-power for a single day. It has 
been uniform and unvarying, far more so than any other power in 
use for impelling machinery." 

. It may be necessary for the information of some of our readers, 
to explain the manner in which this water-power is made available. 

The aqueduct or water-course, from the re^rvoir at Overton to 
its temnijation at a short distance from the Clyde, is one continu- 
ous mill-lead cut out of the sloping«ground between Overton and 
the river. There are no mill-dams or embankments ; the plan 
does not admit of any. The declivity down which the water is 
conducted is more or less steep at different places^ At iheae the 
engineer has placed his falls ready for being thrown upon the 
wheel. Between each fall, the water runs with a slight inclination 
downwards; a sufficient space being left between them for the 
erection of the buildings requisite; and thus of 512 feet, the 
height of Overton reservoir, from the lower termination of the line, 
there is not a foot of fall which is not made available for the pur- 
poses of machinery. There are nineteen falls of different degrees 
of power on the eastern line, and thirteen on the plan for the 
western. 

In computing the amount of water power obtained by this in- 
genious contrivance, let it be observed, that the company have at 
command, on each of the two branches of the line, a quantity of 
water, sufficient, with a fall of thirty feet, to give a power for im- 
pelling machinery, equal to that of 54 horses. Applying this 



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OREEl^OCK. 435 

power to the whole line of falls, or to somewhat more than 1000 
feet, the water-power acquired is equal to )782 horses. Whether 
Mr Thorn was well-founded in the remark with which he con- 
cludes his report, namely, that, if all the water-power which 
Greenock possesses were actually applied to machinery, Greenock 
would be in possession of nearly as much power. from water as was 
then (in 1824) given by steam to all the public works in and about 
Glasgow, the compiler of this account will not pretend to deter- 
mine. But one thing is undeniable, that the water-power furnish- 
ed by the company is far cheaper than that which is procured 
from steam. The expense of the latter, eyen in Glasgow, in the 
immediate neighbourhood of coal, is not less than L. 30 a-year for 
each horse power. The Shaw's Water Company let out .their 
water-power to manufactories at the rate of from L. 2 to L. 4 per 
horse power per annum, with this advjintage additional, that there 
is no tear and wear, as in steam-engines, and no risk of failure or 
deficiency in the supply. The quantity of water guaranteed by 
the company is 1200 cubic feet per minute on each branch of the 
line for twelve hours every day during 310 working days in the 
year. The Act of Parliament provides that there shall be an an- 
nual inspection of the grand reservoir on the 1st of April. At some 
of these inspectionsi it has been found that, making large allowance 
for leakage and evaporation, there was a supply of water sufficient 
to fulfil the engagements of the company for a whole year, though 
not a drop of rain should fall in the interval. The certainty, there- 
fore, of a uniform and abundant supply, not only at present, but 
after the formation of the second branch of the line of falls, is fully 
established. «. 

The genius of Mr Thorn as a civil-engineer and mechanic has 
been most successfully displayed in the construction of the embank- 
ments, the self-acting sluices, and other machinery connected with 
this splendid undertaking. The great reservoir covers nearly 295 
imperial acres, and contains 284,678)550 cubic feet of water. Its 
embankment is 60 feet high from the bottom of the Shaw's water 
rivulet. The compensation reservoir, immediately adjoining to 
the great reservoir, and in connection with it, covers about 40 im- 
perial acres, and contains 14,4€f5,898 cubic feet of water. Its 
embankment is 23 feet high from the bottom of the rivulet. Both 
embankments have stood the test of time, and at this moment dis- 
cover a firmness and solidity which inspire the most unmingled 



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436 KENPUeWSHIRE. 

confidence in their durability.* A descriptioa and drawings of the 
self-acting sluices would occupy too much space in a Statistical 
Account ; they may be found in <^ A Brief Account of the Shaw'9 
Water Scheme," printed at Greenock in 1829. They are inge- 
nious contrivances for economizing the water. They indicate aD 
insatiable avarice of water power. While they contipue to act, 
none of it can go to waste ; the wet weather of one week lays up 
in store for the drought of another, — nay, the works and the me- 
chanical contrivances connected with them, may be. so enlarged, 
that the abundance of one year may be made to provide against 
the deficiency of the year following ; to which we may add, that 
so complete is the economizing system of Mr Thom, that not only 
is the issue of water from the two principal reservoirs carefully re- 
gulated, but the water is measured once more at the Overton re* 
servoir, so that not a fbot niore or less than the 1200 cubic feet 
per minute can issue to the manufactories below. 

In Mr Thom's report in 1824, he contemplated the construc- 
tion of a reservoir, capable of containing only 200,000,000 of cubic 
feet of water. He, therefore, estimated the expense of the whole 
works, exclusive of what might be paid for the ground, at L^ 16, 000, 
When the plan was finally adjusted, it was determined that the 
great reservoir should contain 284,000,000, and, in addition to this, 
it was found necessary to form the compensation reservoir for the 
benefit of the mills on the Shaw's Water rivulet, and streams con- 
nected with it. It cannot, therefore, be matter of surprise, that 
the works already completed have cost, purchase of ground in- 
cluded, the sum of L. 51,000. This sum includes also the whole 
e^fense of providing the water for domestic purposes, aqueducts 
filters, pipes, &c to be afterwards mentioned. The subjoined list 
of the falls already taken has been furnished by Mr John Thorn, 
the inspector of the works. It will convey to the reader some idea 
of the facility with which the company can modify or increase their 
supply of power, so as to meet the wishes and objects of manufac- 
turers. 

" Fall, No. l.f of 26 feet, or 47 horse power, possessed by Tas- 
ker. Young, and Co. as a sugar-house. Fall, No. 2. of 24 feet, or 
44 horses, possessed by Mackenzie and Walker, as flour and com 
mills. Fall, No. 3. of 17 feet, or 31 horses, possessed by the 

* The embankment which broke out some yean aso with such fiital oonsequenees 
ta the tnhabitanU of Cartadike, was not oonnected with the worka of which we now 
apeak. 

t The numbers arc counted from 'the lowest fall. 

3 



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GttEENOGK. 437 

'Baikers' Society as a flour-mill Part of No. 4 of 10 feet, or 18 
horses, possessed by Mr William Houston as a wool-manufactory, 
spinning, &c. Do. do. of 18 horses, possessed by Messrs A. and 
W. Johnston as an iron foundery. Do. do. of 10 horses, possessed 
by John Poynter as a chemical work. Fall, No. 6. of 19^ feet, 
or 85 horses, possessed by Mr Thomas Dodson as a rice-mill. 
Fall, No. 7. of 28 feet, or 51 horses, possessed by Muirs, Mar- 
tin, and Co. as a flax-mill, spinning, &c. Fall, No. 18. of 30 feet, 
or 54 horses, possessed by James Walkinshaw and Co. as a paper- 
work. 

Besides the 'above, there is now erecting on Falls No. 8 and 9, 
of 115 horses, very extensive cotton-works by the Cotton- Mill 
Compaoy ; and on part of Fall, No. 11^ of 18 horses, a woollen- 
manufactory is now erecting by Mr Robert Houston ; and on Fall 
No. 12, of 53 horses, a manufactory for spinning fine wools is now 
erecting by Messrs Neill, Fleming, and Reid. 

A power of 20 horses has also been taken by John Gray, Esq., 
and another of 20 horses by Mr W. A. Macfie. 

There are still 8 falls unlet on the eastern line of leads, com- 
prising a power of 386 horaes ; and the whole of the western line 
is still unopened, which contains the same amount of fall, and the 
same power as the eastern line." 

When the whole of the falls shall be possessed and manufacto- 
ries erected on both lines, events perhaps not far distant, there will 
be one of the most singular spectacles presented to the eye, which 
it is possible to imagine. There will be seen from the river, or 
from its opposite bank, an immense crescent or semicircle of ma- 
nufactories with one end of the arch resting on the eastern ; the 
other on the western extremity of the town of Greenock ; the most 
distant point of its circumference, 500 feet above the level of the 
sea, and the greater part of the space included in this semi- 
circle occupied as corn-fields and pasture. 

Whether the increase of our manufactories by these means will 
add to the good morals and real happiness of the people is another 
and an infinitely more important question. On this subject, the 
compiler is happy to learn that the managers of the cotton-works 
now erecting on Falls No. 8 and 9, by far the largest of the works, 
have made it a part of their plan to provide sound religious in- 
struction on a truly liberal scale to the persons, especially the 
young, whom they expect to receive into their employment. It is 
,dev6utly to be wished that the proprietors of similar establishments 
would follow their example. 

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438 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Before concluding this article, we must not omit mentioning the 
fulfilment of the original object of Mr Thorn's survey, namety, the 
providing a sufficient supply of pure ^ater for domestic purposes, 
and for public works in the town of Greenock. The if Met for these 
purposes is procured from springs, and from a sutfece-water reser- 
voir distinct from those which have been already mentioned. ItJs 
conducted to filters im mediately above the tdwft by a itone aque- 
duct fifteen inches square, perfectly water tight, and sufficiently 
deep in the earth to avoid the frost of winter, and the heat of 
summer. Cess pools are formed in the aqueduct for the deposit 6f 
seditftent before the water enters the filter^ or rather a basin ad- 
joining the filters large enough to contain rather more than a day's 
supply of water. There are three filters each 50 feet long^ 12 
feet wide, and 8 feet deep. They have this pectiliarity, that they 
are self-cleansing. We shall describe them in Mr Thom's own 
words, taken from a letter to Sir M. S. Stewart iti thci Afjpendit 
to the « Brief Account," p^ 86^ 

*^ I cannot now enter into a particular or detailed account 0f the 
eonstruction of these filters. In th^ meantime, I la^y state that 
the water is made to pass through « body of very fine, clean, 
sharp sand, of about five feet deep, add by a Very simple eotitrt- 
vance the water is made to enter either at the top« that it may per- 
colate dowDwatds, or at the bottom, that it may t>efeolate upwards, 
as v^e please; and when in filtering it percolates downwattls^ tbet>, 
whenever the qtianlity of pure water fells short by the lodgement of 
Pediment among the sand^ the water is made to enter for a little 
at the bottom, and, passing upWai'ds with considerable force^ carries 
the sediment out at and over the top, after which the filtei* goes 
on as before, producing the full quantity of pure watei*. In the 
same way« if the water usually percolates upi^ards iti filterings the 
sediment is removed by making the water for a few mitiUtes enter 
at the top, and carry the sediment downwards into the waste drain. 

^* To say that these filters must continue fof Over to produce 
the same quantity of pure water, would be going too far ; but, 
from the experience we hate had, there appears no reaaon to 
doubt of their continuing to do so for a very long time.'' 

Manufactures. — The chief branches of manufactures prose- 
cuted in Greenock are, ship and boat-buildings iron-tfounding tmd 
forging) sugar-refinings rope-spinnings sail-cloth manufacturing, 
and saiUmaking, paper-making, straw-bat tnaking, tannings And 
currying of leather, earthen-^waro manufacturing, woolleii'-cloth, 



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C^ltEBNOCK. 439 

and yttrn-naking^ coopers' and joiners' work, eabbeUmaking, and 
upholstery, chipping of logwood, flour and oat^meal manufhctur- 
ing, brewing, distilling. A cone, and relatite buildings were at 
one time occupied as a bottle-work, and crystal manufactory ; but 
they are not in operation at present. 

Referring to the first of these, there are seTen ship-buiid- 
ing companies in Greenock and Crawfordsdike, giving employment 
to about 1200 persons, men and boys* Two of the companies 
bare commodious dry docks, their own property. One has a dock 
belonging to the corporation, in lease; one has a patent-slip 
dock ; and all have access to the large dry dock belonging to the 
town. One of the companies has a chain and anchor work at- 
tached to the building yards, and two of them have saw>mills for 
their own contenienee. The situation of the town, and the depth 
of water at high tide, afford every facility that can be desired, for 
building and launching* From 6000 to 7000 tons of shipping are 
launched yearly ; and repairs, which are the most profitable to the 
trade, are executed to a great amount. If the demand were 
greater, more work might be done» 

Boat-building is a distinct business from ship-building. There 
are four companies in this department, who employ about 40 
workmen ) and launch from 700 to 800 tons annually of all de- 
scriptions of boats. 

The wages of ship and boat-builders are the same. For car- 
penter work, men receive L. 1, ls« and boys 6s. weekly. Sawyers 
have L. 1, 5s. ; all of them work ten boulrs every lawful day, and 
in winter from sunrise to sunset Their work is liable to inter- 
ruption from the weather. It is a healthful employment, and has 
nothing in it peculiarly unfavourable to morals. In most of the 
ship-building yards the drinking usages have been abolished ; 
and the money formerly spent in that worse than brutal gratifica- 
tion is now expended in the purchase of tools. 

3. Iron Wwrksi g-c—* There are three iron found^ries and forges, 
employing about 1060 persons, boys included, who work ten hours 
every lawful day. In these there are made to order dll iorts of cast 
iron-work and machinery : but steam-boilers and engines, and the 
iron-work connected with these, are their principal manufactures. 
Of steam-engines, there have been manufactured from 2000 to 
2500 horse-power yearly. Otie company alone since it started has 
(Vimished niatihinery for moi« than 40 steamers of the largest dass. 
A ooAsidferable fiuolberof Etiglish* built steamers have been sent to 



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440 RBNPREWSHIRE. 

Greenock to receive their machinery ; of these are several of Her 
Majesty's steam-frigates. The average weekly rate of wages for 
grown men in this department is ISs., for boys 5s. 

Distinct from the iron*works now mentioned are two chain-cable 
and anchor manu&ctoricf^, employing from 105 to 110 hands, and 
a work for forging iron bars, employing 16 handstand about to be 
enlarged. 

Stiff ar fVarhs^—SugBLT reBning is carried on to a very consider* 
able extent. There are in the town and parish eleven works of 
this description, giving employment to upwards of 350 persons, 
and reBning yearly 14,000 tons of the raw material. All these 
are conducted on Mr Howard's patent for boiling in vacuo. The 
extracting of raw sugar from molasses, and the making of loaf su- 
gar, are the objects of the sugar-refiner. One of them refines 
exclusively for exportation, and with this view the sugar is re- 
ceived in bond, and afterwards exported without draw-back. Su- 
gar refiners work ten hours daily. Their average wages are, for 
men, 16s. ; for boys, 5s. weekly. 

Sail'^th Manufactory, — There is a sail-cloth manufactory, 
giving occupation to about 270 persons, male and female, and 
manufacturing yearly from 500 to 600 tons of the raw material. 
Wages to males, from 86. to L. 1, 4s. ; and to females, from 2s. 6d. 
to 7s. weekly, according to age and skill. They work twelve hours 
per diem. To this manufactory there is attached an extensive 
rope-work, producing a large quantity of cordage; besides which, 
there are other three rope-works, giving employment to upwards 
of 80 persons, and manufacturing yearly from 600 to 700 tons of 
cordage. Wages per week, men, 15s.; boys, 5s. The intro- 
duction of chain-cables has materially aflfected this branch of our 
manufactures. 

Tan'^Works.-^There are four tanning companies, employing in 
all 45 hands, and turning oyer stock to the amount of h* 18,000 
yearly. The largest work is very complete. It was erected and 
fitted up at great expense by a joint stock company some years 
ago* The company became insolvent, and the manufactory has 
not been occupied since to its full power. Operative tanners work 
ten hours daily in summer, and eight in winter ; curriers eleven 
hours. Wages, 16s. weekly. 

PMerieM. — Two potteries give occupation to upwards of 200 
persons, male and female; and manufiicture yearly about 100,000 
potters' doxens of white and printed earthen-ware. Wages for 



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GBEENOCK. 441 

men, from 10s. to L. ) a week, according to age and skill ; women» 
7s. ; boy? and girls, 28. 6d. They work ten hours a-day. 

fVooUen Manufactories* — Besides the woollen manufactories now 
in the course of being erected on the Shaw's Water Aqueduct, 
there is one already in operation for the manufacture of woollen 
yarn, in which tartans and tweelled cloths are also made. About 
25,000 stones of wool are annually converted in this manufactory 
into woollen cloth and yarn. The number of persons employed 
is 22. Wages, males. Ids. ; females, 4s. weekly. 

Straw Hat Manufactory* — A straw hat manufactory (Messrs 
Muir, Connell, and Co.,) gives employment to 70 hands in the 
workshop, and to 150 additional in their own houses. They 
work ten hours a day, and receive of wages, men, about L. 1 ; fe- 
males, working piece-work, may earn 10s. weekly. They manu- 
facture straw hats and bonnets of all sorts. Messrs J. and A. 
Muir, the former partners in this business, received from the High- 
land Society and the Institution for Encouragement of Arts and 
Manufactures, several medals and premiums for specimens of hats 
of rye-straw, grown in Scotland, in imitation of Leghorn. Messrs 
Muir and Connell employ about 1500 persons in the Orkneys in 
the making of straw-plait 

Grain Milk* — There are four grain mills, in which upwards 
of 20 bands are employed, and from 40,000 to 50,000 bolls of 
all kinds of grain are ground annually. One of these was ori- 
ginally built for manufacturing paddy (the Indian name for un- 
shelled rice). It was supposed that rice imported in that state 
would suffer less in the voyage, and would bring a higher price, 
if freed from the husk in this country. But the speculation has 
been found to be an unprofitable one^ in this town at least ; and 
the machinery referred to in this paragraph is employed partly in 
the manufacture of paddy, and partly in chipping dye-wood. 
Wages, 15s. weekly. 

Breweries* — Three breweries afford employment to about 45 
persons, and manufacture L. 80,000 worth of malt liquor for 
home and foreign consumption. Wages for men, 15s. weekly ; 
boys, 48. They work eleven hours daily. 

Distillery. — A distillery affords employment to 20 persons^ 
boys included; pays to the Excise L. 2 1,000 annually, and sells 
about L. 50,000 of malt whisky. A dairy, containing from 40 
to 50 cows is attached to the distillery, which, at the favourable 
season, yields daily from 250 to 300 Scotch pints (600 quarts) 
of milk. Wages to men, 15s. a week. 

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443 RENFREWSHIBE. 

Pap€r-Mani^actory.^^k paper manufaclorj at Overtofi, on 
the Shaw's Water Aqueduct, affords employment to about 40 
persons, male and female. About 300 tons of paeking and co- 
loured papers are manufactured yearly* Wages to men, 166. ; 
to women, 6& weekly. They work eleven hours daily. 

Cooper-Work, — Upwards of 600 men and boys are employed 
in cooper* work. Wages, men, 17s.; boys, 6s. weekly. They 
work the same number of hours as ship-carpenters. 

Gas- Works. — The coal gas-worksi are in the hands of the 
corporation. They were commenced by a joint-stock company, 
which was formed in 1827, and began its operations in 1829. 
In 1836 they were transferred to the corporation, to which they 
bring an ample revenue. They afford occupation to 20 men, of 
whom 12 work six days in the week, and 8 seven alternately, ten 
hours a day. Wages, 13s. weekly. The works produce nearly 
16,000,000 cubic feet of gas per annum. 

Cotton- Work. — To the enumeration which has now been given 
of the manufactories of Greenock, we add the following descrip- 
tion of the splendid cotton-work recently erected on the Shaw's 
Water by a few gentlemen residing in the town, who feel a lively 
interest in promoting its prosperity. 

The mill, measuring inside 263 feet long, 60^ feet broad, is 
divided into three separate apartments^ viz. east end, built of 
fire-proof materials, 36 feet by 60 feet; centre, 191 feet by 60i 
feet ; and west end, 36 -|^ 60 feet. The -first flat is occupied in 
the fire-proof end as a mechanics shop, being contiguous to 
water-wheel and great gearing; the centre part contains about 
14,000 throstle spindles, spinning numbers from 14 s. to 30 s. 
power-loom warps ; the west end, used as a throstle-yarn ware-* 
house and winding-room. The second and third are divided as the 
first. The fire-proof rooms are intended for the blowing ma- 
chines; the centres for preparation machines, viz. carding-en- 
gines, drawing-frames, slobbing fly-frames, and finishing fly- 
frames ; the end apartments for warping and winding. The top 
flat, fire-proof end, is used as a cotton mixing-room, the centre 
will contain 10 pairs of mule jennies, of 1000 spindles each, ail 
working on the self-acting principle, spinning power^^loom warps, 
numbers 40 s. and 60 s. ; the end apartment to he used as a mule 
yarn warehouse and winding-room. Each flat has a proper supply 
of spring water. The height of ceiling in the first flat is 12 feet 6 
inches, and the other three 1 1 feet 6 inches. Each flat has properly 
constructed fans, and ventilators to the top of the house. The mill 

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GREENOCK. 44S 

is heated by steam, and the pipes so constructed, that, in the event 
of fire, they eao be used with the same effect as a fire-engine. There 
are twelve branches in each flat, with hose and pipe attached, at all 
times ready for use if required* The whole mill could be flooded 
in half an hour, by attaching a force-pump to the water-wheel. It 
is expected a considerable saving will be effected on the insurance, 
owing to the blowing and cotton-rooms being fire-proof, and the 
heating apparatus being fitted up as described. The mill is built 
entirely of ashlar. A gas-work and comfortable houses for the 
workers are being erected in its neighbourhood. 

The number of hands required for the, work will amount to 
about 350 or 400 ; the majority females, from 13 to 22 years of 
age; males from 16 and upwards. The amount of wages paid 
yearly will be about L. 6000 Sterling ; and the consumption of 
cotton about 70 bales weekly, principally American and Bombay. 

The water-wheel is at present in course of erection by Mr Smith 
of Deanston, Perthshire. From his known talent and experience 
as a practical mechanic, and his liberality as a contractor, it is 
expected that this magnificent wheel will be constructed, and put 
together in such a manner, as will be satisfactory to the mill- 
owners, and reflect the highest honour on Mr Smith. The wheel 
is 70 feet in diameter, and 12 feet broad within bucket : the axle 
in the centre is 4 feet 6 inches diameter, and weighs 1 1 tons. The 
two centres or flanges, on axle where the arms spring from, are 
1) feet each in diameter, and weigh each 6^ tons. The wheel is 
made of malleable and cast-iron, and when put together will weigh 
about 180 ton& The seat or arke of the wheel is built entirely 
of cube material, each stone measuring from 15 to 130 cubic feet, 
the entire weight of stones being about 4000 tons. 

The advantages possessed and expected by this company in erect- 
ing a work of this description at Greenock are, a cheap and constant 
supply of water at all seasons ; viz. a power equal to 120 horses, at 
the yearly rent of L.1, Is. Sterling per horse power ; a railway con- 
veyance in one hour to Glasgow, the principal market for the.eon«- 
sumption of our yam, and alsaa market for the purchasing of cot- 
ton ; and the power of attending the Liverpool markets, by a sail of 
sixteen or seventeen hours ; to which may be added an abundant 
population for carrying on the work, and an excellent port for im- 
porting cotton, or exporting yarns to the continent or India. 

It is believed that most' of the manufactures above described 
afford a fair remuneration to the capitalists engaged in them. If 



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444 RENFREWSHIRE. 

there be any exception to this remark, it is to be found in the 
sugar refining, which, it is alleged, has suffered materially from 
legif^lative interference, and perhaps has been over done. Two of 
the largest sugar-refineries have ceased working for some time past. 

Tanning and straw-hat making are the only occupations of 
those which have been mentioned which are unfavourable to 
health. Habits of intemperance are not necessarily connected 
with any of them ; although it cannot be doubted that these are 
more frequently to be found in some of our manu&ctories thaa 
in others; and particularly among those workmen who receive 
the highest wages. Ifr is satisfactory, however, to be able to state, 
that intemperance, as the vice of the working-classes, is on the 
decline ; and that many of the masters are exerting themselves, 
with the most praiseworthy activity and perseverance, for the en- 
couragement of sober and industrious habits. * 

Navigatwfu — In the Literary Rambler for October 1832 there 
are some curious excerpts from a manuscript in the Advocates' 
Library, purporting to be a report by Thomas Tucker, one of 
Cromwell's servants, who was appointed to arrange the customs 
and excise in this country ; from which we may form some con- 
ception of the state of commerce in Greenock and the neighbouring 
towns two centuries ago. The report is addressed ** To the Right 
Honourable the Commissioners for Appeals," and^ is dated No- 
vember 20, 1656. After describing Glasgow as " a very neate 
burghe towne," all whose inhabitants except the students were 
traders, *^ some for Ireland, with small smiddy coales in open 
boates from four to ten tonnes .... some for France with plad- 
ding, coales, and hering^' — and some venturing as far as Barba- 
does, but discouraged by the loss they sustained <* by reason of 
their going out and coming home late every year" — the reporter 
proceeds to describe the towns of Port- Glasgow and Greenock in 
the following terms : 

" The number of ports of this district are, \st^ Newarke, (Port- 
Glasgow,) a small place where there are (besides the laird's house 
of the place) some four or five houses, but before them a pretty 
good roade, where all the vessells doe ride, unlade, and send their 
goods up to the river Glasgow in small boats ; and at this place there 

* Several branches of manuflMture have greatly increased since the pfeeedlnj| ae- 
oount was drawn up. The increase has taken place chiefly in ship-building. 'Aere 
are now on the stocks five steamers building for the '^ Royal Mail Steam FaokeC 
Company,** so large and ^batantial as to be able, in addition to carrying guns of 
ordinary dimensions, to mount each four 68 pounders. — September 1840. 



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GREENOCK. 446 

is a wayter constantly attehding. 2<%, Greenock — such another— 
only the inhabitants are more, but all seamen or fishermen, trad* 
ing for Ireland or the isles in open boates* Att which place there 
is a mole or peere, where vessells in stresse of weather may ride 
and shelter themselves before they pass up to Newarke ; and here 
likewise is another wayter." 

Crawfurd wrote his History of Renfrewshire about fifty years 
after the date of the report from which the preceding excerpts 
are taken. During that short period the trade and town of Green- 
ock appear to have made rapid progress. For Crawfurd describes 
it as the chief town upon the coast — well built — and having be- 
longing to it a great many vessels employed in trade to foreign 
parts, and one of the largest harbours in the kingdom. 

The growing prosperity of Greenock at the period to which we 
refer is to be ascribed to the enterprising spirit of its inhabitants, 
and the liberal and enlightened policy of Sir John Shaw, the Lord 
of the Manor. We have seen that, at the beginning of the last cen- 
tury, the population of the whole parish did not exceed 2000 ; yet in 
the year 1700, the inhabitants of the town petitioned the Scottish 
Parliament for a fund to build a harbour, and were refused ; where- 
upon they entered into an agreement with the superior to raise 
the money by a voluntary assessment of Is. 4d. Sterling on each 
sack of malt brewed into ale within the limits of the town. The 
building was commenced in 1707, and the work was completed be- 
fore Crawfurd wrote his history in 1710. The harbour then built 
inclosed ten acres of ground — a large space for that period in the 
commercial history of Scotland; and cost 100,000 merks, or 
L. 5555. A heavy debt was incurred by the erection ; but the 
trade of the port increased so rapidly, that, in the year 1740, the 
whole debt was extinguished, and there remained a surplus of 
27,000 merks, or L.1500. 

The author of the former Statistical Account mentions, that, 
from the union with England, till the beginning of the American 
war, ^^ a very great trade was carried on from Greenock, princi- 
pally by the Glasgow merchants, who were owners of almost all the 
ships sailing from that port.'' The American war, as has been al- 
ready stated, occasioned an almost total stagnation of its trade ; but 
trade again revived, and increased with rapidity till a recent period, 
when it began to be affected by the deepening of the river, and the 
consequent removal of a part of the trade to Glasgow. The mer- 
chants of Greenock haVe for a long time been the principal owners 



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446 



RENFR^WSHIItE. 



of vesaoU sailiog from this port. The fbllawing reports will en* 
able the reader to form some conception of the state of the (rside 
in the years to which they refer. 

The Statistical Account published iu 1791 givc^ from the C|is- 
tom-house books a comparative view of the state of the tonnage of 
this port in the year 1784, the first year after the American w«r, 
and the year 179L 



*' Entered at the Port of Greenqclc, Vessels. 


Tons. 


Total Tons. 


In 1784, Inward British, - 231 


153P 


2626 


Foreign, - 7 


1095 




Outward British, - 196 


14,911 




Foreign, - 2 


478 
39,626 


15,389 




ia,oi5 


In 1791, Inward British, - 406 




Foreign, - 21 


3,778 


48.404 


Outward British, - 301 


31,721 




Foreign, - - 14 


2,390 


• 34,111 


Coasters inward, - 593 


15,434 




outward, - 627 


16,270 


31,704 




109,219** 


To this comparative view Mr Wilson has added the follovi 


r 1806 :t 






Vessels 




Tons. 


Inward foreign trade, 346 




49,256 


coasting do. . . 354 




19,751 


fishing vessels, . 302 




10,120 


Outward foreign trade, . . 326 




47,710 


coasting do. . 545 




25,440 


fishing vessel^ . 238 




8,275 . 



2111 166,552 

The same author gives a still more minute account of tlie trade 
at the Port of Greenock in the seven years ending January 1810, 
with their tonnage and number of men, to which we refer the 
reader, giving only the first and last of these yearSi 

Inwards 1804. 
From foreign parts and Ireland. Coasters. 
Ships. Tons. Men. Ships. Tons. Men. 
406 531,546 3183 384 21,536 1396 
Outwards 1804. 
To foreign parts and Ireland. Coasters. 

Ships. Tons. Men. Ships. Tons. Men. 
352 50,366 3678 739 35,155 2438 
Inwards 1810. 
Firom foreign ports and Ireland. Coasters. 
Ships. Tons. Men. Ships. Tons. 
433 60,936 4008 363 19,168 



Men. 
1220 



Fishing vessels. 

Ships. Tons. Men. 

346 19,996 1751 

Fishing vessels. 

Ships. Tons. Men. 

277 7854 888 

Fishing Twsels. 

Ships. Tons. Men. 

151 5486 521 



* Mr Wilson makes this 21|531, which is probabljr the correct aocpunt 
the total tonnage in 1784 was 38,015. 
t General View, p. 209. 



Ifsc^ 



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GUEENOCK. 447 

Outwarda, 181.0. 

To foreign parts and Ireland. Coasters. Fishing vessels. 

Ships. Tons. Men. Sh^u. Tons. Men. Ships. Tons. Men. 

492 &8,9iS 4927 450 29,062 1869 142 4868 552 

The decline in the coastingi-trade aod lu the fishing vessels, 
which appears fi^oni this comparative view, may be ascribed chiefly 
^o the same cause, namely, the deepening of the river, and the 
Xransference of these branches of trade to Glasgow. The success 
of the river trustees in their improvements has begun to injure the 
foreign trade of Greenock, though not to so great an extent as 
might have been anticipated. There are persons living who have 
forded the Clyde on horseback below the Broomielaw at ebb-tide ; 
now the river steamers can sail at all hours, and some ships of the 
largest class can pass at full tide, and lade and unlade at the port of 
Glasgow.* With such facilities for the transit of goods to Glasgow, 
in consequence of these improvements and the towing of vessels by 
fiteam, it were unreasonable to expect that either the coasting or 
foreign trade of Greenock should continue as great as formerly. 
That the latter has suffered so little, as will appear from a re- 
port from the Custom-House, about to be laid before the reader, 
can only be accounted for by the growing prosperity of the coun- 
try at large, and the encouragement which is thus given to trade 
in all parts of Scotland. 

Before giving this report, we may present another criterion of 
the state of trade at Greenock at different periods : 

In 1788, the revenue from the harbour was . . . L.lll 4 8 

1792, . . . . 812 9 

The average revenue for six years ending. 5th January 1809 was . 8,547 19 8 

For the year ending 5th January 1810, . 4,219 14 5 

„ 6th September 1880, . 9,114 11 10 

„ 8th September 1&35, . . liJOl 18 4 

„ Seirtember 1889, . 12>079 4 

Tlie progressive increase of the harbour revenue is the result 
not only of the increase of the trade, but of the improvements 
which have been made under the authority of successive acts of 
Parliament, particularly of the extension of the harbour, the build- 
ing of new quays and warehouses, and of dry docks for graving 
and repairing vessels. These improvements, suggested by the 
growing conunerce of Greenock, and executed at an immense ex- 

* While this was passmg through the press, a paper was read at the meeting in 
(Biaigow of the British Association by Mr Bald, civil-engineer, stating the mean 
ttae and fsU of the tide in the harbour at Glasgow, at 6 feet 9 inches, while in 1755, 
Smeaton stated the tide to be only sensible at Glasgow Bridge. 

BENFREW. Xig 



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448 



RENFREWSHIRE. 



pense, will, it is hoped, ultimately justify the eipectations, and re* 
ward the zeal and enterprise of the projectors. 

The following additions and improvements have been made to 
the harbour since its first erection, viz. 

1. The taking down, and rebuilding and enlarging the west quay, com- 
meocing in February 1807, and renewing the breasts from thence to 

the Custom House quay, completed in 181 1, at a cost of - L.I4>d20 

2. The new east harbour, commencing December 1806, and 6nished 

in 1811, at an expense of - - . 35,786 O 

3. Erecting sheds, commencing in 1806, increasing the same, and keep- 
ing in repair up till August 1819, at a cost of - - 11,600 

4. The dry or graving dock east, commenced in August 1818, and 
completed in September 1825, at an expense of - - 21,331 

According to Weir, the gross receipts of the customs at the 
port of Greenock were, 



In 1728, 


L.15,231 


4 44 


1745, 


15,831 


3 9i 


1770, 


57,836 


6 104 



Mr Wilson states the* total amount of Custom- House duties to 
have been, 



For the year ending 5th January 1804, 

1805, 
1806, 
1807, 
1808, 
1809, 
1810, 



L.208,490 12 0} 

248,674 17 8 

272,978 4 6i 

369,433 10 11} 

355,095 -^ ■■ 
326,104 
489,275 



11/ I If 

9 m 

17 64 
3 34 



The fluctuations in trade, visible in the immediately foregoing 
statement, are not more remarkable than those which are apparent 
from the first chapter in the following valuable report, obligingly 
communicated to the compiler by the late lamented Mr Saun- 
ders, collector of the customs here, and presenting a full and sa- 
tisfactory account of the present state of Greenock in all its 
branches. 



Account of Gross Receipt of 
Custom Revenues. 



An AooouDt of the number of Ships and Ves- 
sels registered at the Port of Greenock, witb 
the number of Men employed. 











Ships. 


Tons. 


Men. 


In 1829, 


L.432,440 9 





In 1829, 


361 


35,976 


2619 


1890, 


554.972 1 





1830, 


341 


32.668 


2304 


1831, 


592,009 4 


6 


1831, 


346 


34.563 


2328 


1832, 


564,548 5 


6 


1832, 


362 


87,539 


2527 


188^« 


450,425 9 


6 


1833, 


366 


38,740 


2683 


1834, 


482,138 4 





1834, 


367 


40,783 


2658 


1835, 


448,661 11 





la^ 


368 


42,862 


2732 


1836, 


374,467 14 





1836, 


378 


44,719 


2900 


1837, 


380,703 13 





1837, 


386 


47,421 


8089 


18SQ, 


417,673 10 


6 


1838, 


398 


54,683 


3865 



* In this year Glasgow was made a warehousing port for tobacco^ The imports** 
lion of tobacco went accordingly to that port, and affected the revenue of Greenock* 



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GREENOCK. 



449 



Account of the Number and Tonnage of Ships and Vessels en- 
tered Inwards and cleared Outwards to Foreign Ports with 
Cargoes. 





Inwards. 






OUTWAKDS. 




British. 
No. Tons. 


Foreign. 
No. Tons. 


British. 
No. Tons. 


Foreign. 
No. Tons. 


In ]829,« 211 


55,649 


10 


2572 


205 


53,475 


7 2180 


1830, 199 


49,887 


15 


4100 


226 


54,236 


13 3405 


1831, 253 


64,966 


21 


5056 


253 


61,752 


16 4092 


1832, 268 


66,638 


16 


3632 


268 


67,283 


15 3756 


1833, 277 


69,843 


9 


1964 


284 


71,698 


8 2140 


1834, 254 


67.634 


20 


5430 


273 


67,959 


10 3060 


1835, 248 


68,317 


20 


4615 


269 


66,423 


10 3135 


1836, 230 


64,016 


17 


4453 


231 


59,953 


8 2807 


1837, 229 


59,014 


25 


8267 


216 


58,714 


17 6521 


183^ 223 


65,864 


12 


3095 


235 


63,582 


9 8411 


Account of the Number of Vessels, with" their 


Tonnage, entered 


Inwards and cleared Outwards, coastwise. 










iMWAKDf. 




OUTWAKDS. 




No. 




Tons. 


No. 




Tons. 


In 1829, 


684 




67,884 


346 


. 


34,892^ 




1830, 


- 632 




65,072 


300 


. 


244251 




1831, 


- 596 




64,516 


362 


_ 


25,288 




1832, 


- 640 




67,542 


299 


. 


21,344 




1833, 


. 709 




68,045 


272 


. 


19,205 


'• 


1834, 


999 




103J85 


820 


. 


25,179 




1835, 


- 896 




88,468 


315 


. 


24,343 




1836, 


- 981 




113,523 


356 


• 


26,485 




1837, 


- 1011 




118,330 


1354 


• 


169,907' 


all 


1838, 


. 911 




99,430 


1222 


- 


128,017 


ind. 



The following Statement shows the leading articles of Import at 
this Port, with the quantity. 



Sugar, 
Molasses, 


1820. 


1829. 


1830. 


1837. 


1888. 


209,480 cwt. 
2,769 cwt. 


328,995 cwt. 
152,939 cwt. 


298,860 cwt 
58,670 cwt. 


299,312 cwt. 
258,672 cwt. 


301.240 cwt. 
JJ90.741 cwt. 


Coffee and 
oocoa. 


15.667 cwt. 


10,508 cwt. 


8,497 cwt. 


4,747 cwt. 


5,068 cwt. 


Pepper and 
pimento, 
Spirits, 
Wine, 
Tobacco, 
Tea, 
Com, 
Flour, 
Timber, 


589 cwt. 


2,286 cwt. 


446 cwt. 


415 cwt 


695 cwt. 


514,487 galls. 
41,869 galls 
I88,755^1bs. 

13.495 qrs. 
17,344 cwt. 
5,838 loads. 


333,068 galls. 
57,648 galls. 
535,544 lbs. 

5,097 qrs. 

4.216 cwt. 

21,840 loads. 


249,167 galls. 
51,542 galls 
647.410 lbs. 

20.695 qrs. 
10,618 cwt. 
16,716 loads. 


207.099 galls. 

58,084 galls. 

24,451 lbs. 

107, 185 lbs. 

8,508 qrs. 

7,524 cwt. 

20,658 loads. 


248.830 galls. 
53.049 galls. 

1.120 lbs. 

149.858 lbs. 

2.944 qrs. 

16,840 cwt. 

24,301 loads. 


Deals and 
battens, 
Cotton wool 
Mahogany, 
Dye-wood, 

Brimstone, 


127 hundred. 


181 hundred. 


804 hundred. 


820 hundred. 


987 hundred. 


7,494,866 lbs. 

480 tons. 

761 tons. 

1,328 tons. 

10.133 cwt. 


6,858,455 lbs, 

1,583 tons. 

482 tons. 

534 tons. 

22,086 cwt. 


10.411.933 lbs 

819 tons. 

1,017 tons. 

1,190 tons. 

1,971 tons. 


12,136,566 lbs 
982 tons. 
41! tons. 

1,434 tons. 

5,024 cwt. 


1 1,597,653 lbs 

499 tons. 

818 tons. 

1,084 tons. 

13,780 cwt. 



* Ending 5th January 1880. 

t Vessels with part of cargoes having previously cleared outwards at Glasgow ara 
not included in the return from 1829 to 1836. 



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450 



RENVtlEWSHlRE. 



Ati Account showing rtie va!ue of tbe antter-metttioned British 
goods exported froto Greenock in the following years ^ 





]^. 


1829. 


1890. 


1837. 


Idte. 


Woollen Manufact 


L. 31,148 


L. 41,965 


L. 55.267 


L. 45.275 


L. 46,881 


Cotton, Yarn, &c- 


927,187 


875,316 


933,526 


60,6961 


1,021,710 


Linen Manufactures, 


261,456 


112,442 


122,327 


90,385 


7,633 


Silk Manufactures, 


7,644 


2,029 


21,308 


9,740 


6,129 


Hardware, 


4,053 


10,687 


9,032 


9,695 


10,053 


Earthen -ware, 


4,393 


7,967 


7,762 


4.528 


49,35 


Glass, 


8,449 


37,982 


22,537 


19,314 


20,450 


Iron, 


17,848 


44,443 


24,449 


44,461 


45,704 


E^r .• .• 


1,647 

4,448 


3,132 
940 


6,319 
783 


4,657 
306 


4,554 
337 


Tons. 


Tons. 


Tons. 


Tons. 


Tons. 


Coals in Tons, 


12,644 


11,617 


12052 


20,436 


18,598 


Cwt. 


Cwt. 


Cwt. 


Cwt. 


Cwt. . 


Refined Sugar.— cwt. 


28,993 


9,689 


39,529 


39,484 


73.615 



Emigrants embarked at Greenock for the countries undermen- 
tioned : 



in 1821, 
1822, 



1824, 
1825. 
1826, 
1887, 
1828, 
1829, 
1830, 
1831, 
1832, 
1833, 
1834, 
1835^ 
1836, 
1837, 
1838, 



Australia. 




11 







7 

2 


20 
96 

8 
41 
14 
22 
20 
821 
1632 



ti America. 


U. S. of America. 


4348 


282 


1186 


2S2 


853 


244 


512 . 


165 


540 


196 


1256 . 


161 


1781 


716 


2241 


980 


1601 


. 721 


2681 


1371 


8923 


. 1458 


8277 


1676 


1903 


. 1419 


1390 . 


2160 


995 


. 1401 


1321 


1282 


1455 


840 


241 


181 



Before concluding this part of the statistics of Greenock, it may 
be mentioned that, in 1714, it became a custom-house port as a 
branch of Port-Glasgow. More recently it has been in direct 
communication with the Board in London. The business of tbe 
customs, originally transacted in apartments at the west or old 
quay, is now carried on in a spacious building, one of the greatest 
ornaments of the town, erected, at the public expense, on what is 
called the Custom -House Quay, and occupied for the first time in 
May 1818. 

Chamber of Commerce and Mmtufactures. — This association was 
incorporated by Royal charter in the year 1818. Merchants, trad- 



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GRBENOCK. 45l 

ers, and maQufacturers resddiog Id Greenock and its vicioity are 
eligible as members. There are tvelye directors, three of whom 
go out of office annually by rotation. Like other institutions of a 
similar kind, it has for its leading objects the redress of grievances 
affecting any particular branch of trade or manufactureS|| the re- 
moval of all obsitructions to trade, and the pointing out pf new 
sources of wealth and industry and commercial enterprise. With 
these views, the directors maintain a friendly intercourse and cor- 
respondence with the Members of Parliament foif tfee district, and 
the various Government boards, and with the other chambers of 
commerce and manufactures throughout the kingdom. It is also 
part of the duty of the directors to act as arbiters in disputes aris- 
ing among nsembers of the chamber, and to watch over the pro- 
ceedings in Parliament in all questions affecting the interests of 
trade and commerce. 

The proceedings of the chamber appear to have been charac- 
terized by great judgment and energy, and to have been produc- 
tive of the best effects, 

V. — Parochiil Economy. 

Market-Town* — Greenock is the market-town not only to the 
surrounding country within the parish, but also to the neighbour- 
ing parishes of Inverkip and Kilmacolm. Part of the produce of 
the last of these parishes is disposed of in Port- Glasgow, which is 
the nearest market-town to the eastern portion of the parish of 
Kilmalcolm, and to which there is the readiest access by turnpike 
and parish roads. The communication between the middle and 
western portion of that parish and Greenock is by roads made and 
upheld by the respective parishes, in one part of them not yet 
completed. 

Police. — The police establishment of Greenock has long been 
felt to be altogether inadequate to the extent and population of 
the town. Assaults and street robbery are of comparatively rare 
occurrence, and are instantly made the subjects of judicial investi- 
gation. But theft and house-breaking, and depredations on pro- 
perty of various kinds, are often practised with impunity in the town 
as well as in the suburbs, not from any want of vigilance and ac- 
tivity in the public Prosecutor, but from the insufficiency of the 
police force at the disposal of the Sheriff and magistrates. ^Fhe 
subject is at present (in 1839) under consideration ; and it is hoped 
that the truly liberal and enlightened portion of the community 
will unite with the public authorities in the adoption of measures, 



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452 RENFREWSHIttE. 

the expense of which would be more than repaid to the inhabitanCf 
by the protection afforded to persons and property.* 

Greenock has only one post-office, without any receiving- 
houses. Mails for the following places are made up and dispatched 
daily: for Glasgow, 3; for London, 2 ; for the north of Scot- 
land, 2 ; for Edinburgh and the east and south of Scotland, 2 ; 
for different places in Argyleshire and Buteshire, 1 ; for Ayrshire, 
2. There are three deliveries daily, namely, at 8 a. m. at S, 15 
F. M. ; and at 8^ 10 p. m. 

The length of the turnpike-roads within the parish, all of them 
included, is about eight miles ; the whole, excepting a small part 
of one of the roads to Gourock, in excellent repair. The only 
public carriages on these roads are omnibuses to Port-Glasgow 
and Gourock, which in summer ply hourly from 10 o'clock a. v. 
till late in the evening. Steam-boat travelling has long ago put 
a stop to the running of stage-coaches on the Paisley and Largs 
roads from Greenock. 

Glasgow^ Pauley^ and Greenock Railway. — The success of rail-- 
way enterprise in England encouraged the expectation that simi- 
lar undertakings might be followed with similar results in Scot- 
land. Among the railways proposed to be executed in this part 
of the island was one from Glasgow to Greenock, via Paisley and 
Port- Glasgow. When this proposal was first discussed, it was 
plausibly objected, that it was vain to expect that such a mode of 
communication could compete with a navigable river like the 
Clyde, which the improvements of the river trustees had already 
rendered capable of receiving ships of the largest class, as far as 
the port of Glasgow. Such an undertaking, it was imagined, 
could not possibly succeed, and must of necessity be accompanied 
with great pecuniary loss to the shareholders. The capitalists of 
Greenock and Liverpool w^re not deterred by these objections. 
In a very short time after the project began to be entertained, the 
requisite number of shares were subscribed, and an act of Parlia- 
ment' was applied for and obtained. That act was passed in the 
summer of 1837. The work has now made rapid progress, and 
will be completed in the course of next year. The high price of 
the shares, when compared with stock of a similar kind, sufficient- 
ly indicates the confidence whicli the shareholders and the public 
entertain of the ultimate and early success of the undertaking. 

The line sanctioned by the act was selected by Joseph Locke, 

Since this was written, an act has passed the Leffislature, providing, among 
other things, for the introduction of a more extended police. 



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GR£ENOCK. 463 

Thomas Grainger, and J. U. Rastrick^ Esqs. civil-engineers. 
The whole length is 22 miles, 4^ furlongs. The intermediate 
stations for the first-class trains are Port-Glasgow and Paisley.- 

The grounds on which the projectors rest their expectations of 
success are the following : — 

First J It is computed that the greater rapidity of railway tra- 
yelling, and its certainty as to time, will induce a great many pas- 
sengers who now travel by water between Glasgow and Greenock 
to go by land. In the estimate of their probable revenue from 
this source, the railway directors make the computation, that one- 
half will prefer the latter mode of conveyance. Of the passengers 
between Glasgow and places beyond Greenock, they compute that 
one-third will go by the railway. Of the cabin-passengers between 
Glasgow and Paisley by the canal, it is computed that one-half 
will go by railway ; and of the steerage passengers by the canal, 
one-tenth. It is assumed that the number of travellers will be in« 
creased by the opening of the railway. Taking them at a small 
average, the number is doubled as the probable increase. 

Secondly^ The proportion of goods assumed to be carried by 
the railway, is taken in a similar manner. The total quantity of 
goods carried between the above towns being about 352,650 tons, 
144,600 tons are computed to be sent by railway. 

Passengers will be carried between Glasgow and Greenock at 
an average charge of not more than 2s., and from Paisley to 
Greenock, at an average charge of Is. dd. Goods will be carried 
from Glasgow to Greenock at 4s. per ton ; the river charge being 
at present, on an average, about 6s. 6d., and from Glasgow to 
Paisley for 2s. 6d., the canal charge being on an average about 7s. 

The following table, taken from a prospectus published by the 
directors of the railway, shows the amount of income expected 
from the sources which have now been mentioned : 

Description of Traffic. £xpected Income. Proportion. 

Passengers by land, L. 6,379 15 
Passengers by water, 29,416 11 8 

L. 35,796~"8 
Add for inerease, 35,796 6 8 

L. 71,592 13 4 Three-fourths and upwards. 

Goods, - - - 21,918 8 One-fourth nearly. 

The expense of the construction of the railway is considerably 
under L. 18,000 per mile, but including stations, engines, car- 
riages, &c. L. 22,000. After making ample allowance for keep- 
ing the railway and works in repair, the directors anticipate, from 
the sources which have been mentioned, a clear dividend of 12 
per centi 

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454 RENFREWSHIRE. 

It may be Ihe opioion o£ some, diat^ lik« isobI pro|j«ctors> tbe 
shareholders in this railway are too sanguine in their eicpeetattons* 
In a little while the truth of their predictions wiH be^ brought to 
die test One thing orast be obvious — whether the shareholders 
gain or lose, the public at large must benefit by Ih^ seheiire« 
Every addition made to the means 6t communicalion is a boon 
conferred on the districts to wfakk it is applicable^ Paisley and 
Greenocik lire tbe towns which will pr^&t mosi by this spirited en- 
terprise ; for, it can scarcely be docibted, that when tbe railway is 
completed, Greenock will be the chief port of Paisley. If tbedi^ 
BttDUtion of the foreign trade of Greeoock^ by the deepeniog ot 
the river, should be arrested by the coflipletion of the mtlway, the 
port of Glasgow has nothing to dread from, such a competition ; 
and its inhabitants generally will pro&t by an additional and more 
rapid mode of conveyance to the towds and somitier residences on 
the banks of tbe river, and on the ^a coasts Wbea the Edit!*' 
burgh and Glasgow Railway shall be opened, the mimber of tra-* 
vellers will be still more augmented ; the communication between 
the east and west coasts will be more frequent, and all the towns 
on the whole line of railway will profit by this beautiful invention . 
of modern times. 

Ecclesiastical State,*-*-T[ie whole of the parish of Greenock^ as 
has been mentioned in the beginning of this account, was origi- 
nally part of the neighbouring parish of Inverkip* Tbe lands of 
Greenock, Finnart, and SpaUgok, were disjoined from that parish 
about thirty years after the Reformation in Scotland at th^ in^ 
stance of Sir John Shaw, one of the ancestors of that family whoM 
enlightened liberality and patriotism we have had occasion to no- 
tice repeatedly in this Account. A copy of the Royal Charter, 
authorizing this erection, will be found at the end of this Account 
It Is an interesting document^ as an illustration of the spirit of the 
times. The " great river" referred to is the Kipp, a compara- 
tively small stream, near the village of Inverkip, but at that time 
without a bridge, and doubtless frequently swollen by the heavy 
rains, so as to be impassable. This charter bears date 18th No- 
vember 1589. It was ratified by acts of Pariiament in 1599 and 
1594. In the year 1618^ the lands of Easter Greenock and Craw- 
furdsbum, were annexed to Greenock by decree of Court of High 
Commission. In 1650, the CourtofTeinds and Plantation of Kirks 
disjoined the estate of Garvock from the parish of Houston, and 
annexed the lands of Lees, Duras, Darnemes, and Fallow-hills, 



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QRE&NOCK. 455 

being one-halt of said es4ate» to Greenock, and the other half, 
namely, Bodgertown and Wester Garvock, to Inverkip. This 
decree was confirmed by another in 1669. 

2. After that date no change took place in the ecclesiastical 
state of the parish till 1741» ^hen the Court of Teinds disjoined 
the New, or, as it is now generally called, the Middle Parish, from 
the Old. Sir John Shaw, the patron of the latter parish, con- 
senting that the patronage of the New Church and parish should 
be vested in " the bailie of Greenodc, and managers of the 
fund for building and endowing the said chnreb, and the feuars 
and elders for the said new erected parish for the time being ;" 
but with this proviso, that ^* Sir John Shaw of Greenock, and the 
other heritors of the parish of Greenock, their heirs and succes* 
sors in their respective lands and heritages, nor the teinds thereof, 
shall not be liable in the payment of any stipend to the minister 
of the New parish, or for building, upholding, or repairing the 
kirk, manse, or school-house thereof, or any other parochial bur* 
dens whatever.'^ 

The New or Middle parish is entirely burghal, §nd is situate, 
as its new name indicates, in the heart of the town. 

3. The East parish was disjoined from the Old, and erected 
into a separate parish by decree of the Court of Teinds in 1809, 
on nearly the same principles with those which were adopted in 
the erection of the New parish in 1741. The patronage was 
vested, with consent of Sir John Shaw Stewart, patron of the Old 
parish, in the magistrates and town council of Greenock, and a 
committee of seven, to be named by and from the proprietors of 
seats, each individual having a vote, and the eldest magistrate of 
Greenock in case of an equality having the casting vote. 

The East parish is partly burghal, partly landward. Besides a 
large portion of Cartsdyke, it includes all the landward part of the 
parish lying between Cartsdyke and Port- Glasgow, together with 
the farms of Lees, Darnemes, Burnhead, Glenbrae, Stron, Inglis* 
ton. Berry-yards, and Hayfield on the south, and between Greenock 
and Kilmacolm. 

4. and 6. The North and South parishes were erected quoad 
spiritualia under the authority of an act of the General Assembly 
of 1834. The erection was by the presbytery of Greenock, 
which had been in the same year disjoined from the presbyteries 
of Paisley and Irvine, and constituted a separate presbytery. 
Both these parishes were taken from the Old, or, as it is sometimes 
called, the West parish. 

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456 RENFREWSHIRE. 

6. St Andrew's parish was in like manner disjoined from the 
Old parish in the year 1885. 

These three parishes are contiguous and in lines parallel with 
the river ; the North parish being bounded by the river on the 
north, and by the South parish on the south, St Andrews lying to 
the south of both. 

7. St Thomas' parish was erected by the presbytery quoad 
spiritualia in 1839. It was taken partly from the Old and partly 
from the Middle parish, but chiefly from the former. The pres- 
bytery at the same time annexed a part of the Middle parish to 
the Old quoad spiritualia, 

8. In the same year, the parish of Crawfurdsdyke was disjoined 
from the East parish, and erected by the presbytery quoad spirt" 
tualia. It was taken from the centre of the burghal part of that 
parish. 

The population assigned by the presbytery to each of these five 
newly erected parishes was from 2000 to 3000 souls. 

The election of the minister is more or less popular in all of 
them. 

In the North parish church it is vested in the male heads of 
families communicants, the preses of the managers having a deli- 
berative and casting vote. 

In the South parish — ^in the proprietors. 

In St Andrews parish in the male heads of families communi- 
cants, from a leet of three selected by the committee of manage- 
ment, unless four-fifihs of the congregation shall be agreed in fa- 
vour of the candidate first proposed, in which case there shall be 
no competition. 

In St Thomas' parish — in the male heads of families communi- 
cants. 

In Cartsdyke parish — in all the communicants, male and female. 

Having enumerated the parishes into which Greenock is now 
divided, and the date of their erection, we have next to state the 
provision which has been made for them in respect of church ac- 
commodation, stipend to the minister, manses, &c and the names 
of the ministers who have presided over these parishes since their 
erection. 

The present church of the Old parish appears to have been 
built very soon after the granting of the Royal Charter mention- 
ed above; probably in the year 1590 or the year following. It 
was originally built for the accommodation of Sir John ShaVs 



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GttBENOCK. 457 

tenants only ; but Easter Greenock and Cartsbum being afterwards 
annexed to the parish, it was found necessary to add proportion- 
ally to the size of the church. That addition was made accord- 
ingly about the year 1670, since which time the walls remain as 
they stood at that period. Agreeably to ancient practice a certain 
amount of area was all that was provided by the heritors* Each 
heritor and feuar erected his own pew, according to his own taste, 
so that the whole presented a rery motley appearance, till about 
forty years ago, when the seats in the lower part of the church were 
renewed. The church is capable of containing about 850 persons 
at 18 inches to each, but, on sacramental and other occasions, it 
has been made to accommodate considerably more than that 
number. 

Complaints having long been made of the low and unhealthful 
site of this church, the subject was brought under consideration of 
the heritors and presbytery ; and, after a tedious process before 
the presbytery, a decree was granted for the erection of a new 
church, to contain not fewer than 1200 persons. It is now build- 
ing in an elevated part of the town, after a very beautiful {dan by 
Mr David Cousin, architect in Edinburgh, and will accommodate 
1400 persons. 

The stipend from teinds is 18 chalders, half meal and half bar« 
ley, with L. 10 for commimion elements, besides which the minis- 
ter is entitled, under the authority of a decision of the Court of 
Session, to an annuity of L. 25, originally secured by bond volun- 
tarily granted to one of his predecessors by the town of Greenock, 
and now paid out of the funds of the incorporation. The manse 
is in very bad repair. About seven years ago the presbytery de- 
clared it to be insufficient, and ordained it to be rebuilt ; but cir- 
cumstances have hitherto prevented^he decree from being car- 
ried into effect The whole of the glebe is feued, excepting the 
ground occupied by the manse and manse garden. The amount 
of feu-duties payable is L. 424, 8s. 4|d. 

The following are the names of the ministers who have officiated 
in this parish since its erection, so far as this can be ascertained. 

In 1602, John Lang, who appears to have continued minister 
till 162a In 1640, James Taylor. In 1679, Neil Gillies was 
privately called by the parish. In 1688, John Gordon officiated, 
and continued to do so till 169), when he returned to Inverary, 
his former charge. In 1694, John Stirling was transported from 
the parish of Inchinnan to Greenock, but resigned in 1701, on 



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408 RENFREWSHIRE. 

beiag appomfed Prbcipat of the College of Glasgow. He was 
succeeded in 1704 by Andrew Turner, then minister of Er9kiiie» 
who died in 1719, and was succeeded by his son, David Turner, 
who continued minister toll bis death in 1786. He was succeeded 
by Allan M'Aulay. In 1792, Robert Steel was ordained succes- 
sor to Mr M^Aulay. Mr Steel died in 1831, and was succeeded 
by Patrick M< Parian, D. D., the present incumbent, in i886L 

The Middle Church was built in 1757. It cost L. 2388^ 17s. 
8id., of which L. 1058, 5s. 9d. was defrayed by subscriptions, and 
the remainder paid by the corporation. It is capable of aocom- 
modating upwards of 1500. The scairrents are paid to the 
burgh, and amounted,, on an average of five years ending 1835, 
to L. 554, 2s. 0|d. The minister's stipend is L. 275, with 
L. 20 for communion elements. They are paid from the funds 
of the burgh. At the erection of the pariah a manse and garden 
were provided for the minister, at the expense of the liberal- 
minded Sir John Shaw, the lord of the manor. At a later period 
these were sold by the corporation, and a new manse, with a gar- 
den attached, was built by them in a more eligible situation. 

John Shaw was the first minister of the New or Middle parish. 
He was succeeded in 1771 by John Adam, minister of West Kil- 
bride. Dr Scott succeeded him in 179a In 1880, Mr William 
Cunningham, now minister of Trinity College Church, Edinburgh, 
was ordained assistant and successor to Dr Scott. On his removal 
to Edinburgh, James Smith, A. M. minister of Alva, in Stirling- 
nhire, the present incumbent, was admitted assistant and successor 
in 1835. Dr Scott died in March 1836. 

The East Church was built in 1774 as a chapel of ease. It is 
seated to accommodate 976, at 18 inches to each sitter. The 
average of seat-rents paid annually to the burgh is L. 280. When 
converted into a parish church, the property of the building was 
transferred to the corporation, — the magistrates and council be* 
coming chargeable for its maintenance, minister's stipend, and 
other expenses, but acquiring a right to levy an annual ground- 
rent (not exceeding 7s. 6d. per sitting), on the seats reserved by 
the proprietors, and to let the remaining seats at what they may 
bring. The minister's stipend is L. 200, with L. 20 for commu- 
nion elements. An addition of L. 50 was recently given by the 
corporation, but in terms of the grant, it is restricted to the pre- 
sent incumbent He has a manse provided by the community, and 
kept in repair at the expense of the corporation. 



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GREENOCK. 469 

The ministers ki this elunrch were, Mr Peter Miller, Mr Archie- 
bald Reid, Archibald M^Lauchlan, now one of the ministers of 
Dundee, Dr John Gilchrist, now one of the ministers of Canon- 
gate^ Edinburgh, and Mr William Menzies, the present incunobent. 

The South Parish Church was buih as a Gaelic chapel in 1791, 
and cost L. 1300. It is seated to accommodate 1300. The 
stipend of the minister is L. 260. He ims no manse provided for 
him. Mr Kenneth Bain was the first minister of this church. He 
was svcceeded by Mr Angus M^Bean, the present incumbent, in 
1821. The service in the forenoon is in Graelic, and in the after- 
noon in English. 

The North Parish Church was built as a chapel of ease in 1823, 
4)y a joint-stock subscription in 000 shares of L. 5 each, on which a 
farther payment was made of L. 1, 2s. 6d. on each share. The num- 
ber of sittings is 1 1 05. The minister's stipend is L. 200, with L. 20 
for communion elements. He has no manse. Nathaniel Morren, 
A. M., the present incumbent, was the first ordained minister of 
this parish. 

St Andrew's Church was built in 1836 by private subscription, 
aided by the grant of L. 350 from the General Assembly's Church 
Extension Fund. The expense of erection (school-house includ- 
ed) was L..2602, 2s. It is seated to contain 945. The minister^ 
stipend is L. 150. John James Bonar, the present incumbent, was 
the first ordained minister of St Andrew's parisht 

St Thomas's Church was built in 1839 by private subscription, 
-aided by a grant from the Church Extension Fund. It is capable 
of accommodating about 800 fitters. Mr William Laughton, 
the present incumbent, was ordained in July 1839. For the mi- 
nister's stipend L. 80 is secured by bond. The congregation is 
sleadily on the increase. The managers make such additional 
allowahee as the state of the funds and the revenue of the church 
mAy afford. 

Crawfurd's-dike Churoh was originally erected in connection 
^th 4ihe Secession in the year 1745; it was rebuilt on the same 
-site in the ye«hr 4828, and contains 906 sittit^s. The first mi- 
nister was Mr Cock. He was succeeded by Mr Richardson, whose 
ministry was of short duration. Mr William Willis, afterwards 
minister in Stirling, was successor to Mr Richardson. After Mr 
Willis, the late venerable Mr Moscrip was pastor, and at his desth 
Mr James Stark, colleague of Mr Moscrip, the present incumbent, 
received the sole charge of that congregation. A school-house is 



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460 RENFREWSHIRE. 

attached to the ch urch. The church and schooUhouse cost L. 1 052, 
4s. 3id.* 

The stipends of all the recently erected parish churches in 
Greenock are secured either in whole or in part by bond, except- 
ing the last But, much to the honour of the managers of that 
church, it is provided in the constitution, granted by, last Greneral 
Assembly, that, on the occurrence of a vacancy, a bond shall be 
granted to the minister succeeding to the charge. 

When the new church for the old parish shall be completed, 
the total number of sittings in all the places of worship connected 
with the Established Church will be about 9042 — of which at 
present 548 are free or set apart for the poor. It appears from 
the Eighth Report of the Commissioners for Religious Instruction^ 
that, of the whole population of Greenock, 19,493 belong to the 
Established Church, and 2117 are of no denomination of professing 
Christians. Adding these two sums together, they amount to 
21,610, of which about 14,000 belong to the poor and working 
classes. It also appears from the testimony of one of the. minis- 
ters of Greenock, recorded in the same report, that he had ascer- 
tained the number of sittings held by the poor and working classed 
in his parish to be as 1 to 3 nearly ; and by the wealthier 
classes as 1 to 1 J. f Supposing the proportion to be the same in 
the other parishes, then of 9042, the total number of sittings in 
the places of worship connected with the Established Church, 
there are in round numbers 4600 held by the wealthier classes, 
leaving only 4450 to the working classes and the poor — ^a number 
greatly below the legal allowance, though taking into account only 
the population connected with the Established Church to the ex- 
clusion of Dissenters. With the growing population there will, it 
is to be hoped, be an addition to the number of our churches with 
seat-rents so moderate as to be accessible to the poorest persons 
in the community. Nothing can be more gratifying to the church 
extensionist, and, we may add, to every enlightened and liberal- 
minded Christian, than the success of the experiment in this 
town, so far as it has been already made. If the Church Exten* 

* In a precediog part of UiU Account the writer has expressed his doubts of the 
accuracy of the statement in the first Statistical Account, respecting an ancient cbapel 
near the east end of the town, said to have been called St Lawrence's ChipeL ^ On 
more minute inquiry, he finds that the ruins of that chapel did exist near Uie site of 
what is now the East Church. Some of the old men of the last generation, now de» 
ceased, remembered to have seen them. 

t Eighth Report, p. 305. 



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GREENOCK. 461 

sion Committee and other contributors to the building of our new 
churches had no other reward than the increase of the number of 
church-goers in poor but sober and industrious families, that reward 
is a sufficient return to them for the labour and money which they 
have expended in this great and good cause. If they have not 
had all the success which they desired in reclaiming men from 
the irreligious habits into which they had fallen, they have the sa- 
tisfaction of knowing that they have in some measure arrested 
their progress. It is to irreligion, the result, — we may say the ne- 
cessary result, — of inadequate church extension and deBcient pas- 
toral superintendence, that the intemperance and profligacy, and 
wretched condition of many in the working classes is to be as- 
cribed. Nor can it reasonably be expected that the population in 
our large towns should be restored to its once boasted moral ele- 
vation until religious instruction be accessible to all, and our sys- 
tem of pastoral superintendence be brought again to its former 
completeness and efficiency. 

The deficiency to which we have now alluded has long engaged 
the attention of the Christian philanthropists of this place. For 
the seamen, whether strangers or belonging to the port of Green- 
ock, the Seamen's Friend Society long ago provided a small chapel, 
in which there is divine service and sermon twice every Lord's day, 
by a licentiate of the Church of Scotland, which is numerously at- 
tended ; besides which, every Wednesday evening, a sermon is 
preached in rotation by the Protestant ministers of all denomina- 
tions in Greenock and Port-Glasg;ow. An agent is employed by 
the society to inform the seamen in port that they may enjoy this 
privilege, and to invite them to attend. 

There is another class of persons whose destitute condition long 
ago attracted the notice of a merchant in this town,* who is not 
less distinguished for his unwillingness to proclaim his own good- 
ness, or to have it proclaimed by others, than for the number and 
extent of his charities. He had observed very many children 
amusing themselves on the streets and highways on the Sabbath, 
ilI*clothed, and evidently neglected by their parents or guardians. 
He found that a considerable proportion of these were attending 
the charity-school. It occurred to him that they might be induced 
to come to the school-room of that institution, if not to hear ser- 
mon, at least to receive religious instruction in a form as interest- 
ing to them as might be devised. He commenced the experiment 

* Thomas Fairrie, Esq. 



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462 RENFREWSHIRE. 

bittiseflf, 6nd suoeeeded beyond ezpectslioB. Bui finding Ins kidsiy 
dtpength unequal to the exertion Deqiti9ite» he has for the last five 
or six years employed, at his own expeas^ a young oaan, whose 
ofiSce it is to assemble the children on the forenoon oi the Sab- 
bath, and superintend a Sabbath school in the evenkig, and to 
visit the parents or other relatives of the children throng the 
-week, with the view of insuring a regsilar attendance at the fore- 
noon meeting, and in the school. A probationer of the Church 
of Sootland is now engaged in this interesdE^, and, it is hoped, 
useful department, and is regularly attended in the forenoon by 
upwards of ^0 poor children, who would otherwise be wandering 
throt^h the streets or the iields, corrupting one another and pe- 
rishing for lack of knowledge. 

The minister of ibe old parish has for ^x years paat employed 
a pairi^ missionary at his own ^cpense, to aid him in the over- 
whelming duties of that large and populous parish.; and similar 
means have been employed at various times by the congregatieos 
of the Middle and East Churches. 

Divine service at the churches connected with the fiatabliab- 
notent is generally well attended. 

Adding to the returns of conununicants given in to -the Com- 
missioners of Religious Instruction, the communicants iu the new 
Church of St Thomas', the number on the roll of the eight pa* 
rishes is about 4680. The average number actually communicat- 
ing may be stated at 300 or 400 below that sum. 

The following enumeration of the churches of JSvangelical 
Dissenters in Greenock is taken from the Eighth Report of Abe 
Commissioners of Religious Instruction : 

L There are three connected with the United Secession* 

!• Inverkip Street Church, the Rev. Sutherland Sinclair, mi- 
nister. The congregation was first established in 1740. The 
present place >of worship was built in IBOS, and contains .790 ai^ 
ting's, of which 50, provided by the congregation, are set apart far 
the poor. 

2. Nicholson Street Church, the Rev. Robert Wilson, A. M., 
minister. The congregation was established in 1790, and the 
church was built in 1791, and contains 1106 sittings, of which 40 
are set apart for the poor, and 6 are free. The poor are permit- 
ted to occupy them on application to the managers. 

d. Union Street Church, the Rev. Thomas Finlaysoo, minia- 
ter. The congregation was established in 1838, and the church 



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GKEENOCK 463 

erected in 1834. It contains 950 sittings. The unlet sittings are 
free to all who choose to occupy them. 

II. The Relief Church, Sir Michael Street, the Rev. William 
Auld and James Jeffrey, ministers, was erected in 1807, and con- 
tains 1498 sittings. 

IIL The Independent Church, Sir Michael Street, the Rev. 
Alexander Campbell, minister, contains about 600 sittings. A 
new and very elegant church is at present being erected in George 
Square, Kilblain, for the Independent congregation now assem- 
bling in Sir Michael Street.. 

IV. The Baptist congregation, first established about the year 
1809, assembles in a chapel in Tobago Street, built in 18*21, and 
containing 550 sittings. 

V. The Reformed Presbyterian Church, West Stewart, the 
Rev. Andrew Gilmour, minister. The congregation was first esh 
tablished about the year 1824, and assembles in a church built in 
1838. It contains 447 sittings. 

In 1824, a chapel was built in Union Street, for the families 
belonging to the Church of England, containing 400 sittings. 
The Rev. G. T. Mostyn is the present minister. 

The Wesleyan Methodist congregation was established in or 
about 1811, and the present chapel was built in 1814. It contains 
400 sittings. 

There is one Roman Catholic congregation, in which the Rev. 
Dr Andrew Scott and Alexander Smith officiate. The congre- 
gation was established about the year 1809, and the chapel, which 
contains 761 sittings, was built in West Shaw Street in 181 4. 

There is a small congregation of Universalists, of which Mr 
William Scott is deacon ; and an equally small number of persons 
designating themselves ** The Holy Apostolical Congregation," 
but generally known by the name of Irvingites, on account of their 
holding the opinions of the late Mr Edward Irving. 

The Unitarian or Socinian congregation, amounting to about 
200, have a small place of worship in Sir Michael Street. Mr 
James Forrest is the present minister. 

The following is a list of societies for religious and beneficent 
purposes, with the average annual income, as nearly as that can 
be ascertained : 

RENFREW. H h 



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464 RENFREWSHIRE. 

1. The Greenock Bible Society, • . . L. 70 

2. Ditto Bible Association, . 100 

3. Gaelic Schools Society, . . . 70 

4. Female Society for the Conversion of the Jews, . 35 

5. North American Colonial Society, . . .85 

6. Society for Education of Females in India, 70 

7. Seamen's Friend Society, . . . 170 

8. Female Benevolent Society, • . 260 

9. Female Missionary Society, ... 80 

10. IrUh- readers* Society, . . 40 

11. Parochial Associations, . * 835 

L. 1055 

To this sum may be added the annual subscriptions to the Cha- 
rity School and the School of Industry, amounting to L. 161, 
Ids. nearly. 

Some months ago Mrs Fry paid a yisit to Greenock, with the 
view of directing the attention of the ladies and others to the state 
of our prison, and of impressing on them the duty of making per- 
sonal efforts for the instruction of the prisoners. The result of 
this visit was the appointment of a committee for the purpose con- 
templated by Mrs Fry ; and also the formation of a scheme for 
the erection and maintenance of a house of refuge. A conside- 
rable sum has been subscribed, but no fixed plan has been adopt- 
ed for its application. 

According to returns made to the Commissioners of Religious 
Instruction, the average extraordinary collections for religious and 
charitable purposes, of which an account has been kept, amount- 
ed, in the churches of the Establishment, to L. 403, 2s. 10|d., at 
the date of the making up of that report. It is believed that the 
returns now mentioned were exclusive of collections made at meet- 
ings of societies and other public meetings, which, on some occa- 
sions, have been verv liberal. 

The returns of extraordinary collections at the Dissenting 
churches, contained in the same report, do not, in most cases, dis- 
criminate between collections for behoof of the church and cha- 
pel, and for other religious and beneficent purposes. It is due, 
however, to one of these congregations, the United Secession 
church in Inverkip Street, to mention, that the extraordinary col- 
lections ^' for purposes beyond the bounds of the congregation,'* 
rose progressively from L. 1 1, 6s. 4id., which was their amount 
in 1831, to L. 152, 8s. 4id., the amount in 1836. 

Education. — Greenock, though a landward as well as a burgh 
parish, has no parish school. A seminary of this kind appears to 

have existed till towards the middle of last century, when, the 

3 



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OUKENOCK. 465 

grammar school being instituted, the heritors by some agreement, 
of which no record can be found, were released from the burden 
of supporting a parish school; and the education of the youth was 
left to the grammar school teacher or teachers, and to such teach- 
ers of English reading and arithmetic as might venture to com- 
mence an undertaking of that nature at their own risk. 

Since that period the population of Greenock has increased to 
such an amount, as to render the want of a parochial school a se- 
rious evil to the community. The instruction of the children of 
the poor and working-classes being entirely in the hands of adven*- 
ture teachers, it is not surprising that the school-fees were at one 
time so high in all of them as to present a serious obstacle in the 
way of a working-man's obtaining the unspeakable blessing of an 
elementary education to a numerous family. Accordingly, about 
five years ago, it was ascertained that not more than one in thir- 
teen of the whole population was in attendance at the schools of 
every description within the parish,— in other words, the propor- 
tion of young persons receiving education was scarcely one-half of 
the proportion found in our country parishes. 

This growing evil has be^n in some measure palliated by the 
erection of the Highlanders' Academy — a handsome building 
commenced and finished about two years ago in the south-west 
part of the town, having apartments and masters for two schools, 
an infant and a juvenile school, where the ordinary acquirements 
of reading, writing, &c may be had at a comparatively moderate 
rate. This excellent seminary owes its existence to the indefati- 
gable exertions of a few individuals. It was built, partly by 
subscription, and partly by a grant from Government, — the late 
Sir Michael Shaw Stewart generously giving the ground at the 
lowest feu-duty permitted under the deed of entail. No expense 
has been spared in making the establishn)ent as perfect as pos- 
sible. A large space has been enclosed for play-ground, and 
the usual apparatus of infant and juvenile schools, both within 
doors and without, are liberally furnished. The directors have 
been eminently successful in obtaining highly qualified teachers, 
and have thus attracted to the Academy a considerable number of 
the children of families in the middle ranks. It is called the 
^^Highlanders' Academy," because originally intended for the child- 
ren of Highlanders ; and by the rules of the institution a prefe- 
rence is given to these in the event of an overflowing attendance. 

Long before the erection of the Highlanders' Academy^ a 



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466 RENFREWSHIRE. 

.school existed, at first called the " Trades' School," and more re- 
cently the ^^ Seamen's School," because intended for the educa- 
tion of the children of seamen. It was built in 1813, entirely at 
the expense of the late Mr Alan Ker, merchant in Greenock, a 
man of eminent and enlightened piety and beneficence. His ob- 
ject was to provide education at a moderate price for the children 
of tradesmen ; and the school was maintained by him wi^h this 
view at a considerable annual expense* At his death it was lead- 
ed to the Seamen's Friend Society, as a school for the children 
of seamen. It continued in that position till about eighteen 
months ago, when it ceased to be retained by the society ; and 
the family of Mr Ker, from respect to the memory of their father, 
and following out the object which he had originally in view, ge- 
nerously transferred the property of the school-hou^e to the kirk- 
session of the New Parish, as a parochial school. They on their 
part cheerfully accepted the gift, and undertook to provide a 
teacher, and to guarantee his salary. The school has now been 
open on the new footing for more than fifteen months, and educa- 
tion in the elementary branches is communicated to upwards of 
200 children, with great effect, and at a very moderate price. 

We must not omit to mention, that Sir .Michael Shaw Stewart 
and his son, the grandfather and father of the present Sir Michael, 
cordially seconded th^ benevolent intentions of Mr Ker, and de- 
manded no feu-duty for the ground on which the school-chouse is 
built 

It has become common of late years to build school-houses in 
connection with churches. The Relief Church, the Popish Cha-" 
pel, Crawfordsdyke Church, Nicolaon Street Church, (United 
Secession,) St Andrew's Church, and the Independent Chapel, 
have all of them schools attached to them, or built in their imme- 
diate vicinity. The gentlemen who erected St Andrew's School 
have the honour of being the first to introduce efficient teaching 
into Greenock at a cheap rate. 

The establishment and success of these schools, however, and 
of others supported by the charity of private individuals, does not 
supersede the erection of a parish school. An endowed school 
is a privilege secured by law to the inhabitants of all land* 
ward parishes, and seems to be essential as the means of in* 
suring to their children the blessing of a cheap religious educalioiu 
If the population of this town increase as rapidly as it has done 
for some years past, the Highlanders' Academy and New Pa^sh 



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GREENOCK. 467 

school, granting that the directors should continue the. school 
fees at the present moderate rate, will furnish a very inadequate 
supply of the means of cheap education and moral training ; many 
of the children of our working-classes will grow up in ignorance, 
rrreligion, and crime; pauperism will yearly increase, and Green- 
ock, like other overgrown towns, will be noted for its discontent- 
ment, and turbulence, and misery. It is the interest of all, and 
most of all of the heritors superiors, to erect and endow one or 
more parochial schools, or one large school, to be erected in a 
central position above the town, so as to accommodate the inha- 
bitants of the town and of the landward parts of the West and East 
Parislies. 

The general jsessions of Greenock have exerted themselves 
most earnestly to procure this invaluable boon ; and it is hoped 
that the time is not far distant when their efforts shall be crowned 
with success. 

Meanwhile, there are in all seventeen unendowed schools for 
the children of all ranks, in which the reading of English, writing, 
arithmetic, and geography, are taught with different degrees of 
talent and success. In most of them, the modern improvements 
in the arts of teaching and youthful training have been adopted. 
In almost all of them the Bible is used as a school-book ; and in 
many the teachers assiduously endeavour to instil into the minds of 
their pupils the knowledge of the principles and duties of revealed 
religion. 

For orphans there are two schools built at the expense of the 
burgh — the Charity School and the School of Industry ; the first 
for giving an elementary education gratis to orphan children, or 
children neglected by their parents ; and the second for teaching 
girls from the Charity School, needle-work, knitting, and other 
handicraft occupations gratis, preparatory to their going to domestic 
service. The salary of the teacher of the Charity School is raised 
by subscription ; that of the schoolmistress of the School of In- 
dustry arises partly from private subscription, and partly from the 
profits of needle-work done in the school. 

. There are two burgh schools ; one in which Latin, Greek, and 
French are taught ; another, in which instruction is given in writ- 
ing, arithmetic, geography, drawing, and fifiathematics, compre- 
hending Euclid, plane and spherical trigonometry, practical geo- 
metry, and algebra. 

The gr2^mmar*school was established, as we have already men- 



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468 RENFREWSHIRE. 

tioned,. before tbe middle of last century. Mr Robert Arrol^ the 
author of an elegant translation of Cornelius Nepoa, was the first 
master. Under bim tbe celebrated Mr Watt received bis educa- 
tion in tbe classics. Mr John Marr, who lived at tbe same pe- 
riod, was Mr Watt's instructor in mathematics. Mr ArroPs suc- 
cessor, Mr John Woodrow, was nominated in 1751. He was 
succeeded by Mr Bradfute, who continued in office for about four 
years. On )iis removal to tbe Grammar- School of Glasgow, Mr 
John Wilson, author of a poem entitled Clyde, reckoned of so 
great merit as to be republished in 1803, was chosen master. He 
died in June 1789, and was followed by Mr Thomson. Mr Da- 
niel M^Farlane was appointed his successor in 1794, and conti- 
nued to teach with distinguished ability for thirty years. On his 
resignation in 1824, Mr Potter, a young man of singular learning 
and talents, was chosen master, but did not live to perform the 
duties of the office. W. L. Brown, LL. D., is the present mas- 
ter, of whom it is no more than justice to say, that if the late la- 
mented Sir Daniel Sandford, one of tbe most eminent scholars of 
his age, was a competent judge, Dr Brown has few if any equals 
among the teachers of the Greek and Roman classics in the pre^ 
sent day. It is lamentable to observe, that, possessing such a 
teacher, the inhabitants seem to be insensible to the value of a 
literary education. Out of a population of 80,000, tbe number 
of scholars in all Dr Brown's classes seldom exceeds 60. 

The mathematical class is taught with very great ability and 
success by Mr Robert Buchanan, son of tbe late Mr Cohn Bu- 
chanan, for many years a teacher in this town enthusiastic in his 
profession, and justly respected by all who knew him. Mr R. 
Buchanan has a numerously attended school. Some of the young 
ladies under his tuition, much to their honour^ have made consi- 
derable proficiency in geometry and algebra. Mr Colin Lament 
was Mr Buchanan's immediate predecessor. It is believed be was 
the first in Scotland to introduce into public schools the applica- 
tion of modern astronomy to navigation. So early as in the year 
1785, he gave instructions in nautical astronomy, and the use of 
the instruments necessary for ascertaining a ship's place at sea, by 
lunar observations and chronometers. With this view he had a 
place fitted up at his own expense, and provide<f with suitable in- 
struments, — including a 3i feet telescope, astronomical circle, 
clock, &c., for which, so far as we have learned, no remune- 
ration has yet been made to him. He retired some years ago> 



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GREENOCK. 461) 

after having for many years discharged the duties of his office 
with great credit to himself and advantage to the public. 

It is somewhat sin^lar that no school-rooms have been pro- 
vided by the corporation for either of the teachers now mentioned. 
They receive each L. 25 per annum in lieu of school-room rent. 
The magistrates and council ought to be the best judges of the 
propriety of this arrangement. Perhaps looking to the growing 
prosperity of the town, tliey may be of opinion that a grammar- 
school establishment on a larger scale than the present, may be* 
come necessary, and that, on that supposition, it would be unwise 
to expend even the small sum of L. 1000 or L. 1500 in making 
provision for the now existing classes. If the taste for Greek and 
Roman learning should revive amongst us, the corporation judge 
rightly in deferring for a short time the erection of a grammar 
school, or, to speak more correctly, of an academy. If, on the 
other hand, the taste for classical literature shall continue to de- 
crease, a small building, C4)mprising one apartment for the classi- 
cal teacher, and a larger one for the teacher of arithmetic and ma- 
thematics, will suffice for many years for the accommodation of the 
young ladies and gentlemen of this prosperous town.* 

Each of the grammar school teachers receives from the corpo- 
ration L. 80 per annum as salary. School fees for the burgh 
schools are, 12s. 6d. for Latin ; 15s. for Greek ; and 12s. 6d. for 
arithmetic and mathematics : and in the adventure schools for the 
wealthier classes, 10s. 6d. per quarter. In the other schools where 
the teachers have a salary, they vary from 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. per quar- 
ter. Where the teachers have no salary, the fees vary from 3s. 6d. 
to7s. 6d., according to the branches taught. The total number 
of scholars in all the schools above-mentioned is 2450, or some- 
what less than one in twelve of the whole population. This as- 
tounding fact demands the serious attention of every friend to this 
town and to the country at large. 

Literature. — It must not be inferred from the facts which 
have been stated in the preceding section, that the inhabitants 
of Greenock have little or no taste for literature, or, that they 
are more inclined to that unprofitable and often pernicious 
reading commonly called light reading, than to the perusal of 
books fitted to expand the mind, and to cultivate and refine the 

• In making Uiese obserrations the compiler h(»pes that he will not be accused 
of undue severity, or of applying specially.to Greenock, what is perhaps atiil more ap- 
plicable to Glasgow and other mercantile towns. 



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470 RENFREWSHIRE. 

better feeliDgs and affections of the heart. Doubtless there 
are some * amoDgst us \?hose vitiated taste must be fed inces- 
santly with the worse than unsubstantial food of novels and ro- 
mances. But there are, we trust, a still greater number who, 
though not profoundly versed in the learning of antiquity, are 
eager in the pursuit of useful knowledge, and have acquired the 
habit of spending their leisure hours, with satisfaction and enjoyment 
to themselves, without having recourse to the gaming-table or the 
tavern, or to ceaseless feasting and merriment The following facts 
afford presumptive evidence that this is the character of a lai^ 
portion of our population. 

. The public library in this place was commenced about 60 years 
ago, and now consists of upwards of 10,000 volumes. It is under 
the management of the proprietors or shareholders, who meet an- 
nually in the month of January and elect a committee, whose duty 
it is to purchase books, and transact all the other business of the 
library. The members of the committee continue in office for two 
years. The proprietors and others have the privilege of reading 
on payment of the annual sum of Ids. ; subscribers having a double 
privilege, L. 1, Is. Connected with the library, and forming a part, 
though a distinct part of it, is a collection of books in foreign lan- 
guages, to which access may be obtained on payment of a small 
sum additional to the annual subscription. Before the erection of 
the house for the reception of the statue of James Watt, the books 
were kept in a hall in Cathcart Street, belonging to the free-ma- 
sons of Greenock. They are now placed in the building recently 
erected in Union Street, by the son of Mr Watt, for the reception 
of the statue of his venerable and illustrious parent. 

From the constitution of the library, it being in fact to a certain 
extent a circulating library, it is evident that the committee must 
be under temptation to meet the wishes and gratify the taste of 
different classes of readers ; and, consequently, it is not surprising 
that in the 10,000 volumes of which the library consists, there 
should be a considerable infusion of frivolous and ephemeral pro* 
ductions. But that is by no means the character of the library as 
a whole. It contains many of the best standard works in all. the 
languages of Europe ; and little or nothing that can offend the taste 
or poison or pollute the mind of the most cultivated and intelligent 
Christian. It is earnestly to be desired that the present and future 
committee should feel the importance of the trust reposed in them 
in this point of view; and ako, that, considering the magnitude 



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GREENOCK. 4Tl 

of the library, and the literary reputation of the town as involved 
in it, they should lay it down as a rule fixed and unchangeable} 
that they will regard, not so much the nominal price orthe book, 
as its real value ; and will rather be contented with a smaller num* 
ber of books of merit than load their shelves with those which in a 
few months or years will fall into merited oblivion. 

The working-classes here, as in other towns, are treading iast 
on the heels of their rich neighbours. About seven or eight years 
ago, a considerable number of the mechanics formed themselves into 
an association for the establishment of a Mechanics Library. It was 
commenced in 1632, and now contains nearly 2000 volumes. In 
1836, the same persons formed themselves into a society for the 
establishment of a Mechanics' Institution, and have made rapid 
progress in the accomplishment of that object. A handsome build* 
ing, now alinost completed, has been erected by subscription in 
Sir Michael Street. The ground-floor contains apartments for 
the library, apparatus, reading-room, &c. The second floor is en* 
tirely occupied with a hall 62 feet long by 39 broad ; and capa- 
ble of accommodating from 600 to 700 persons. It is estimated 
that the building when completed will cost about L.1300. 

The plan and execution of the whole building reflects no small 
honour on the mechanics, by whose efibrts chiefly it has been 
erected. If they shall succeed in the ulterior parts of their pro- 
ject, namely, in procuring a complete philosophical apparatus, 
and a popular course of lectures on chemistry and mechanics, and 
if the whole institution be pervaded and imbued by the healthful 
spirit of true Christianity, it will not only prove a source of inno- 
cent gratitication, but the means of intellectual and moral improve- 
ment to the mechanics of Greenock and many others in this grow- 
ing community. At the present moment, the great majority of the 
mechanics are, we believe, sound in their religious principles, and 
will not suffer the institution which they have cherished so suc- 
cessfully, to become a tool in the hands of noisy, active, and rest- 
less infidels and anarchists. In some institutions ofa similar kind, 
religion has been unwisely and improperly excluded, on the plau- 
sible ground that men cannot, or will not agree on the subject of 
religion ; Men of no religion are not so tolerant. If they obtain 
the ascendancy, they will show, as they have already done in too 
many instances, that, if Christians will not contend earnestly for 
the faith, the enemies of religion will seize on every means they 
(fan lay hold of for the promotion of infidelity. 



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472 RENFKEWSHIUL^. 

The Mechanics Library, and Institution, though under the 
management of the same persons, are separate foundations with 
distinct and separate funds. It is in contemplation to unite them 
when the building above-mentioned shall be finished, and the 
books removed to the apartment intended for them.* 

The mechanics of Cartsdyke have also a library, consisting of 
1465 volumes. It was the first library of that description in this 
place ; but the books being kept in the Infant School at Carts- 
dyke, and consequently at an inconvenient distance from many of 
the subscribers, a new library was formed, called the " Trades 
Library*' for which the magistrates provided accommodation in 
Cathcart Square. Various efforts were made to unite the two li- 
braries, but in vain; and on the 18th September 1832, the two 
parties came unanimously to a mutual adjustment, in virtue of 
which the « Greenock Mechanics Library," formerly called the 
" Trades Library," and the "Cartsdyke Mechanics Library," were 
finally separated, and have ever since continued disunited. 

The general character of the books contained in the Greenock 
Mechanics Library, may be gathered from the following statement, 
laid before the seventh annual meeting of the subscribers on the 
3d October 1839, and printed under their authority. After stat- 
ing that the library contained at that time about 1650 volumes, 
the president proceeds to say, — " 560, or 35 per cent, of these 
volumes are history and biography ; 430, or 27 per cent, natural 
philosophy; 172 or 11 percent, novels and romances; 124, or 8 
per cent, voyages and travels ; 106, or 6 per cent, periodical litera- 
ture ; 66, or 4 per cent, poetry ; 30 or 2 per cent theology." 

A larger infusion, not of controversial or polemical theology, 
but of books on practical religion, is evidently a desideratum. The 
former does not come within the range of every man's busmess, 
and would be out of place in a public library ; th^ latter unquestion- 
ably does, and ought to form a large portion of every such institu- 
tion ; without it no library can be considered as complete. 

Besides the large public and circulating libraries which have 
been enumerated, there are libraries connected with several of 
the churches in town for the use of the members of the respective 
congregations; and juvenile or class-libraries for the use of the 
young persons attending the Sabbath-evening or week-day even- 
ing schools. These libraries do not consist exclusively of books on 
religion, but of books of all kinds adapted to the minds of ordinary 
readers, and tending to their intellectual and moral improvement. • 

• Tli« books are now remoTcd.— October 1840. 

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GREENOCK* 473 

There are three circulating libraries in Greenock, one contain- 
ing 1500 volumes, another 1000, and the third about 500. 

An association for the study and encouragement of the arts 
and sciences, open to the community at large, especially one for 
the cultivation of astronomy, and other sciences peculiarly in- 
teresting to a maritime town, is much wanted in Greenock. No 
association of this kind at present exists, and it can scarcely 
be otherwise, so long as our only educational establishment 
continues on so narrow a foundation. All men, even in the 
birth-place of Watt, are not self-imbued with mechanical genius 
and a taste for the arts and sciences. The few individuals amongst 
us who have completed the curriculum of u university education 
cannot be expected to inspire a taste for scientific research into the 
rest of the community. Our two burgh schools are quite inade- 
quate to the accomplishment of such an object But. let the 
people of Greenock unite with our civic rulers in extending our 
educational establishment, (why should it not be equal at least to 
the Perth Academy?) and we shall not despair of seeing the town 
of Greenock become as distinguished for its literary and scientific 
acquirements as for its commerce and enterprise.* 

A Medical and Chirurgical Association was instituted in 1818, 
forpromoting professional intercourse and improvement. The mem- 
bers are medical practitioners in Greenock and the neighbouring 
towns. They meet at stated intervals for the purpose of reading 
papers, and holding discussions on professional subjects. 

There are two public-reading-rooms, one in Cathcart Square, 
and another in the Assembly Rooms, Cathcart Street. 

The only periodical work printed and published in Greenock 
is the Advertiser newspaper. Messrs Mennons and Scott are 
uudersteod to be the editors, as well as the publishers of this 
Journal. It has long kept its ground among the provincial pa- 
pers of Scotland, having been commenced in the year 1799, and 
retained its acceptability till the present date. It is conducted 
with very considerable talent ; its politics are moderate, or 

• We must not omit under this bead to notice the " West Renfrewshire Horti- 
cultural Society.** It has existed for fifteen years, and was for some time encouraged 
chiefly by the market-gardeners. Of late it has received more general encourage- 
ment, chiefly in consequence of the exertions of John Gray, Esq. merchant in Green- 
ock, himself a zealous horticulturist His Royal Highness Prince 'Albert has ex- 
pressed his willingness to become patron of the society. The committee have re- 
solved that ofie-haif of the nett proceeds of the exhibitions of fruits and flowers shaU 
be given to the charitable institutions of Greenock. The donations from these sources 
have amounted this year to about L. 50 ; the other half of the proceeds is devoted to 
premiums and the current eipenscs of the society. Tlie children of the various schopls 
are admitted gratis to the exhibitions.— October 1840. 



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474 RENFREWSHIttE. 

Conservative-wliig. Unlike many papers professing to hold these 
opinions, It has, ever since the comniencement of the Non-intru^ 
sion controversy, consistently and ably advocated the popular side 
of that question. It is characterized by a manly and fearless 
independence, by a determined opposition to Radical and revo^ 
lutionary movements, and by its assailing principles and public 
conduct, without indulging in personalities. It is published oh 
Tuesdays and Fridays. 

Some years ago another periodical of the same kind was print- 
ed and published in Greenock, under the name of the " Greenock 
Intelligencer.*' Its principles were non^establishment and Radical. 
But it was carried on with great loss to the proprietors, and, not* 
withstanding the utmost efforts on the part of those who were 
connected with it, it existed for little more than three years.* 

Charitable and other Institutions. — Under this head we have to 
notice, 1. The Greenock Hospital or Infirmary. Dr Walker, a 
respectable medical practitioner in this town, has furnished the 
compiler with a statement of the facts connected with the history 
of this institution, of which the following are the most important* 

Before the erection of an infirmary m Greenock, there was a 
dispensary for the sick poor, '^y its constitution the indigent sick, 
when unable to attend, were visited at their houses by one of the 
medical attendants. It was established in 1801, and continued 
in operation for about eight years, during which period the num- 
ber of poor who availed themselves of this charitable provision 
amounted to 1715. 

The attention of the public in Greenock was first directed to 
the erection of an hospital by the prevalence of an infectious fever 
in 1806, believed to have been introduced by the seamen of a 
Russian prize-vessel brought into the harbour in that year. In 
1807, measures were taken for the accomplishment of the object : 
in 1808 the building was commenced; and on the I4th day of 
June 1809, it was opened for the reception of patients. About 
the same time, the Dispensary was united to the Infirmary, and 
ceased to exist as a separate charitable institution. 

The building thus erected was capable of containing 32 pa- 

* During the present year another attempt has been 'made to obtain circulation 
for a paper of the same opinions in state and church-polities, by the publication of 
the •« Greenock Observer." It is printed at the Chronicle office, Glasgow. Whether 
the saving of expense by that arrangement will enable it to maintain its ground 
longer thnn its predecessor, will soon be ascertained. We do not think that it has any 
chance of success from the progress of Radical politics, which, if they be making pro- 
gress at all, are advancing at a very slow pace. 



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GREENOCK. 475 

tients. It cost, furniture and other expenses included, L.1815, 
18s. 6d. Sir John Shaw Stewart, the Lord of the manor, gave 
40 falls of ground, valued at L. 10, 10s. per fall, for the site of 
the building. The other expenses were defrayed by subscriptions 
obtained, with the exception of L.120 from Port- Glasgow, chiefly 
from persons residing in Greenock. The amount of subscriptions 
was L.2d57, Us. 7d., of which L.500 was set apart for building a 
bridewell. 

The airing-ground being found insufficient. Sir Michael Shaw 
Stewart gave, in 1815, an additional sum of 40 falls of ground, at 
the same valuation as the former. 

From the report of the managers for the year ending May 
18*29, it appears that fever was then so prevalent among the poor, 
that the hospital was incapable of receiving all the applicants for 
admission. The number of fever cases in that year was 487. 
The greatest number in any previous year was 260. To meet 
this emergency a temporary fever-hospital was fitted up ; but the 
insufficiency of the hospital accommodation for fever patients be- 
ing thus pressed upon the attention of the public, a new subscrip- 
tion was immediately commenced for the purpose of making an 
addition to the Infirmary. The suoi of L. 1032, Ids. was thus 
obtained; two wings were built, and in the year 1830 were fit for 
the reception of applicants. The whole building is now capable 
of receiving about 100 patients. 

An abundant supply of water is obtained gratis, through the li- 
berality of the Shaw's Water Company. The Gas Works, with 
equal liberality, afibrd a sufficient quantity of gas for lighting the 
hospital. 

The average annual number of patients admitted for the last 
five years is 585. Fever cases are of most frequent^ occurrence. 
Of these, the average annual number during the last five years is 
402. The average of deaths from fever is 1 in 8. In 1838^ the 
number of fever patients admitted into the Infirmary was greater 
than in any year since its institution. It amounted to 700. The 
injuries of most frequent occurrence are fractures of the extremi- 
ties. The average annual number of out-door, or what may call- 
ed dispensary patients, during the last five years, is 207. 

The average annual expenditure for the same period is about 
L.958. This sum is obtained from annual subscriptions, collec- 
tions at the churches and chapels, and contributions from the 
workmen at several of the manufactories. It is somewhat surpris- 



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476 RENFREWSHIRE. 

ing that legacies to this excellent iDstitution are few in number and 
small in amount 

There are four medical attendants elected by the managers, 
and an apothecary or clerk who resides in the hospital. The me- 
dical attendants hold office for four years. One retires every year ; 
and the managers may either re-elect him or appoint another* 
Two of the surgeons visit the hospital during one-half of thQ year, 
and the other two during the succeeding half. One takes charge 
of the fever wards for the Grst quarter, while his colleague takes 
charge of the surgical department and the other medical cases, 
and at the end of the quarter they exchange. Their services are 
gratuitous. 

To this statement of facts the compiler has to add, that the 
evangelical ministers of all denominations visit the hospital in rota- 
tion, and exhort and pray with the patients, excepting those in the 
fever wards. Each minister undertakes that duty for a month, 
and during that time visits the infirmary sick more or less fre- 
quently, as his other avocations will allow. 

On the whole, we may venture to affirm, that there is no town, 
of the same extent and population in Scotland, possessing an hos- 
pital for the poor, under better regulations than Greenock, or one 
in which the comfort and recovery of the patients are more faith- 
fully attended to by the surgeons and apothecary, and the matron 
of the house. The patients tliemselves bear willing testimony to 
the truth of this statement, and the annual contributions from the 
workmen, though not in general so liberal as they ought to be, 
show the impression which they have of the importance and the 
value of the infirmary to themselves and their families. 

There is no public asylum in Greenock or in the upper ward 
of Renfrewshire for lunatics. The want of such an institution for. 
the poor and working-classes of this district has been long felt, 
and, it is hoped, may be supplied at no distant period. A private 
establishment of this kind has existed for some time at Fancy- 
farm, in the neighbouring parish of Gourock, to which the heritors 
and kirk-session of Greenock engage to send their lunatic paupers 
at a fixed rate of board. This establishment is about to be re- 
moved to Hillend, in the East Parish of Greenock. The fixed 
rate of board for pauper lunatics is L.16 per annum. 

Mason Lodges and Friendly Societies. — About twenty years ago 
masoni7 declined considerably in this town, but has somewhat re- 
vived of late years. Of the four lodges which existed twenty 
years ago, only one is now open, and in the receipt of income from 



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GRKKNOCK. 477 

.entries. Two other branches of higher degrees, formerly unknown 
here, have recently been established, and are increasing. The 
Old Lodge is at present in a prosperous condition. But the com- 
piler is informed, on the authority of a gentleman who has been at 
the head of it directly or as a proxy, for the last five years, that 
there are none who now seek to become members with a view to 
the benefit department, — social intercourse and the gratification of 
curiosity being the chief inducements, — and many sea^faring men 
joining for the sake of the introduction it gives them in foreign 
countries. Our informant adds, that the masons are perhaps less nu- 
merous now than when the town was at half its present population. 
The St John's Lodge paid this year to poor members and wi- 
dows, L.85, 17s. 6d. 

The Independent Order of Odd Fellows, though a private yet 
not a masonic body, is well known iu England by its extensive ra- 
mifications, and the large sums which it distributes amongst it sick 
and indigent members. About two years ago, a branch of this or- 
der was established in Greenock, under the name of the ^^ Banks 
of Clyde Lodge, No. 1586 of the Independent Order of Odd Fel- 
lows, M. U." (Manchester Unity). The members becoming ra- 
pidly very numerous, two other lodges were established, — the one 
designated the " James Watt," the other the " Highland Mary." 
There are in all from 500 to 600 members, and their number is 
increasing weekly. The initiation money is as follows : persons of 
18 and under 30 years of age, L.1, Is. ; 30 and under 35, L.1, 
lis. 6d. ; 35 and under 40, L.2, 2s.; 40 and under 42, L.5, 5s. 
None are admitted under 18 or above 42, except as honorary 
members. The contribution money is 9d. fortnightly, A sick 
brother receives 10s. weekly diiring the first six months of his sick- 
ness, thereafter 6s. A medical adviser is appointed by the lodge, 
who receives 3s. yearly for every eificient member, and attends the 
sick and gives them medicine without farther payment At the 
death of a brother, L.10 is paid to his widow or nearest relative, 
and L.7 on occasion of the death of the wife of a brother. Drunken- 
ness and the striking a brother are visited with severe penalties, 
and members convicted of violating any of the laws of the country 
&re expelled. There are funds set apart for the special purpose 
of affording assistance to poor members travelling from place to 
place. The average number of such persons is four or five week- 
ly. A widow and orphan's fund is about to be established. The 
profits of a quarterly magazine, published by the order, are to be 
devoted to this object. 



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478 



IIENFRBWSHIRE. 



The Rechabites, another society recently established in Greenock, 
resemble the Odd Fellows in every respect, it is believed, except 
that they take the temperance or tee-total pledge, and forfeit 
claims on the funds by breaking it, in the same manner as if they 
failed to pay their entry-money and dues. 

The associations last mentioned, whatsoever may be their pe- 
culiarities in other respects, are virtually and in effect benefit or 
friendly societies. Besides the above, very few friendly societies, 
commonly so called, now exist in Greenock. Some of them were 
dissolved in consequence of miscalculation and inability to make 
good their engagements. The rest do not appear to be transact- 
ing business to any great extent. 

We are informed that the Master Wrights' Society distributed 
this year L. 78, and the Master Coopers' L. 67. The entry- 
money to the former is L. 2, 2s. ; annual payment, Is. Old men 
and widows receive each L. 2 per annum. There are 66 widows 
on the list of pensioners. 

Provident Bank. — This excellent establishment commenced its 
operations in September 1815. The following table will show the 
uniform and rapid progress which it has made since that period. 





age No. 
epositors 
eekly. 


Number oi 


^ Accounts. 


Yearlt 


Amount. 


t §§•§ 1 


Yeer 
ending 










1 

1 Amount d 

1 by Harbo 

Trust at es 

Balance. 


Opened 


Remaining 






Sept. 


5Q ^ 


during the 


open at last 


Deposited. 


Drawn. 




-S'S 


Year. 


Balance. 






1816 


31 


384 


296 


^,535 


^e829 


£1,706 


1817 


26 


120 


292 


1,927 


1,015 


2,618 


1818 


25 


163 


367 


8,168 


1,591 


4,195 


1819 


29 


156 


440 


3,948 


2.817 


5,326 


18-20 


29 


93 


416 


2,483 


2,270 


5,539 


18fil 


34 


183 


515 


4,050 


2,636 


6,958 


1822 


41 


168 


524 


4,288 


3.192 


8,050 


1823 


39 


198 


567 


4,230 


3,475 


8,805 


1824 


46 


198 


643 


4,098 


3.653 


9,250 


1825 


43 


246 


765 


4,625 


3.087 


10,788 


1826 


52 


289 


840 


5,112 
5,351 


4,709 


11,190 


1827 


53 


824 


899 


4,111 


12,430 


1828 


81 


434 


1050 


6,900 


4,250 


15,080 


1829 


90 


547 


1327 


8,703 


6.108 


17,675 


18d0 


97 


465 


1440 


9,193 


6,663 


20,205 


1831 


96 


510 


1643 


10,814 


7,839 


23.180 


isaQ 


104 


669 


1809 


13,721 


9,001 


27,900 


1833 


123 


790 


2026 


14,961 


9,671 


38,190 


1834 


137 


782 


2247 


15,975 


11,530 


37,6,35 


1835 


175 


992 


2663 


19,138 


13,523 


48,250 


1836 


201 


948 


2956 


21,452 


15,692 


49,010 


1837 


181 


968 


8031 


22,125 


21,005 


50,130 


1888 200 


1096 


3315 


24,853 


19.108 


55,880 


ia39 221 


1266 


3586 


28,268 


24,433 


59,715 



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GKE£NOCK. 479 

The money deposited is lent to the three trusts of the town of 
Greenock, from whom interest is received at 4 per cent. 

The balance due by the bank is now so large that the directors 
at one time contemplated placing the institution under the Act of 
Parliament. But the anticipated increase of the trade of Greenock 
rendering additional harbour accommodation necessary, it is pro- 
bable that the bank deposits may be taken up by the Harbour 
Trust for some time to come. 

The regulations of the bank are few and simple, like those of 
other establishments of the same kind ; and the rates of interest 
are so adjusted as to encourage the poorest artisan to deposit his 
smallest savings ; and at the same time to prevent the abuse of the 
institution by the more prosperous portion of the community. The 
rates of interest on deposits are : 

44 per cent, on all sums under L.5 
4 do. do. from L.5 to L.SO 

34 do. do. L.90toL.100 

3 do. do. above L.100 

The annexed statement, laid by the directors before the an- 
nual general meeting on the 26tb October 1839, presents a very 
pleasing aspect of the successful working of this admirable insti- 
tution. 

At last balancei the amount due by the bank to 8315 deposi- 
tors, was . L.55,880 

In the course of the year now ended, 1266 new accounts have 
been opened, and cash has been received in 6938 different 
deposits, amounting to L.26,015 18 4 

Interest received from the different trusts, ^251 15 11 



L.28,267 14 3 
905 persons have closed their accounts, which, 
together with 3594 partial repayments, 
uuike in all 4589 transactions, amounting to L.24,432 1 4 3 

Showing an increase this year on the deposits of L. 3^835 

And making the balance now due to 3566 persons^ L.59,715 



Of these, 1184 have sums under L.5 due to them, amounting to L. 2,432 
619 . above L5 and under L. 10, , 4,439 

722 . . 10 . 20 



504 

354 

171 

32 



m 30 

30 50 

50 100 

above 100 



10,065 

12,263 

12,903 

11,568 

4,408 



It is Stated ferther by the directors in the report from which the 
above excerpt is taken, that the years 1838-39 presented an in- 
crease greater by one-fifth of the whole than has taken place in 
any former year, both in the number and the amount of the trans- 

RENFUEW. 1 i 



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480 llENFREWSHIRE. 

actions, and that the increase has taken place chiefly on that class 
of accounts having balances under L.10 due to depositors.* 

It can scarcely be doubted, that, with growing habits of industry 
and temperance, and a more general acquaintance with the nature 
and advantages of the Provident Bank system, the number of the 
depositors may be greatly augmented. It is evident from the 
statements to which we have referred, that the directors have se- 
cured the confldence of the working-classes, and that this excel- 
lent institution only needs to be universally known to be almost 
universally embraced by those for whose benefit it is intended. 
Next to the diffusion of pure religion and sound moral principle, 
there cannot be conceived a better or a more powerful check to 
the growing pauperism of Scotland, or a more powerful instrument 
of promoting the personal and domestic happiness of the poorer 
classes, and, we may add, of those also who profit by their indus- 
try. He must be a weak-minded alarmist, and little acquainted 

• Since writing the above, the report of the directors for the year 1840 ha« been 
published in the Greenock Advertiser, and contains the following very interesting 
statements : 

The amount due by the bank to 2586 depositors at last balance 

was, . . . . L.50,715 

In the course of the year 1839-40, new accounts have been 
opened, and cash has been received in 7616 different de- 
posits, amounting to . . L.28»d42 117 

Interest due by the town of Greenock at 4 

percent. 2,401 4 4 

L.9D,74d 15 11 
1002 accounts have been closed during the ^year, 
which, with partial repayments in 9671 diffe- 
rent sums, make in all 4673 transactions, 
amounting to . . 24,708 15 11 

Showing an increase this year in the deposits of . L.6,085 

Making the balance now due to 3994 persons. 

Of the above, 2056 deposits have been made in sums under L.1, 
3710 ditto above L.1 and under L 5 
1039 . . 5 . 10 . 



550 . 10 

175 20 

68 90 

15 . 50 



20 
80 
50 
100 



L.65,750 








L.774 








7,420 








6,342 








6^7 








3,795 








2,342 








862 









L.28,342 
Whence it appears, that one-third as to the number of the deposits have been in sums 
under L.1, or, on an average, of 7s. each, — two thirds in sums under L.5, — and nearly 
one-third of the large sum received into the bank this year has been in sums varying 
irom Is. to L.5. Nine-tenths of the number of deposits, and more than the half of 
the amount lodged, has been in transactions under L. 10. Tlie increase on tbe 
whole amount deposited is nearly 10 per cent, beyond that of any tormer year, and 
the number and sum of transactions exceeds nearly in the tiame ratia 



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GREENOCK. 481 

with human nature, who imagines that the accumulation of L. 50 
or L. 100 in a provident bank by a working-man will induce him 
to strike for a rise of wages. We appeal to the working-man 
"himself, when we say that it is felt to have the very opposite effect 
It places him in the position in which, since the repeal of the 
Combination Laws, he ought to stand with reference to his em- 
ployer. If the employer knows, and^there is no reason for keep- 
ingit secret from him, that his workmen have their tens, and twenties, 
and fifties in the Provident Bank, he knows that, however strongly 
inclined, he dare not reduce their wages below the true market- 
price of labour. On the other hand, a workman in his sound mind, 
with money in the Provident Bank, will not strike in order to ob- 
tain more than that price, with the certainty of exhausting in a few 
weeks or months all the little wealth which he has acquired. In 
point of fact, the strikers, or at least the originators of strikes, are, 
perhaps, without any exceptions, the reckless and improvident,^- 
men who have nothing to lose, and who will not think : the sober 
and industrious are seldom or never engaged in these combina- 
tions. The cruel and oppressive system of trades* unions is, it is 
believed, approaching to its dissolution ; and the sooner it is dis- 
solved, the better for the workmen and their families. Let the 
Provident Bank be more generally resorted to, and it will do far 
more for the industrious mechanic than trades' unions have ever 
been able to effect, with this immense advantage, that the me- 
chanic, in his struggle with his employer, will not have the pain 
of looking on the pale and emaciated faces of his wife and chil- 
dren crying to him for bread, whilst he has none to give them. 

The public are deeply indebted to Mr Lament the cashier, and 
the other gentlemen in the direction, for their zeal in promoting 
the interests of the bank, and the cheerfulness with which they 
devote no small portion of time and labour to the transaction of 
its affairs. 

Poor and Parochidl Funds. — In the earlier periods of the his- 
tory of Greenock, the poor who were dependent on parochial aid 
were few in number ; and the revenue from church-door collec- 
tions, proclamation of banns, mortcloth-fees, donations, &c. was 
more than sufficient for the supply of their wants. After a care- 
ful examination of the records of the kirk-session of the old pa- 
rish, it does not appear that any difficulty was experienced in mak- 
ing provision for the poor of that parish from the ordinar}' sour- 
ces of revenue, till about fifty years ago, when the population of the 



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482 BENFREWSHIRE. 

two parishes having risen to 15,000, and the paupers being more na« 
merous in the old than in the new parish, the heritors and kirk* 
session of the former held a special meeting for the purpose of 
devising the means of checking the growth of pauperism, or, if 
necessary, of adding to the permanent revenue for supplying the 
wants of the poor. The account-books of the old parish, previous 
to the year 1807, have been mislaid or destroyed — and a similar 
fate has befallen those of the new parish for a considerable period 
subsequent to 1791. But the compiler has now before him^the 
account books of that parish from its erection in 1741 to the year 
1791 — from which it is evident, that for many years the kirk-se&- 
sion had been adding to stock ; and that at the latest of these pe- 
riods they were able to meet the growing demands upon them out 
of a liberal collection at the church door, and the other ordinary 
soucces, without having recourse to any unusual expedient 

When at length the wants of the poor appeared to the two 
kirk-sessions to be greater than they could provide for by the or- 
dinary means, both they and the heritors seem to have been ex- 
tremely reluctant to have recourse to a legal assessment First of 
all, it was attempted to make up the deficiency by a voluntary or 
self-impossed assessment on heritors, superiors, feuars, and others. 
Afterwards, they had recourse to quarterly collections at the 
church door, and voluntary subscriptions united, which for some 
time produced a very considerable revenue. But both these modes 
of raising the necessary supplies ultimately failed of success, io 
consequence, as was alleged, of the burden being unequally im- 
posed ; and in the year 1812, the kirk-session concuired in re- 
questing the heritors to make provision for the poor by an assess- 
ment in terms of law. In 1814 the system of legal assessment 
came into operation. In 1817, an Act of Parliament was passed, 
uniting the three parishes, (the East parish was then erected) so 
far as respected the management of the poor funds. That Act 
rendered it imperative on the heritors and elders of the said pa- 
rishes, to meet at least twice a year, to receive statements of the 
receipts and disbursements of the several kirk-sessions, and atone 
of these meetings to assess the heritors and other inhabitants of 
the three parishes, and out of the money so. levied, to pay to the 
kirk-treasurer of each parish what the meeting may judge neces- 
8ary> tpgether with the income of the parish from other sources, 
for supplying the wants of the poor. 

The following excerpt from the records of the new parish ses- 



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GREENOCK. /183 

sion is worthy of being recorded, both as giving a distinct state 
ment of the efforts made to ward off what the heritors and elders 
regarded as a last resource, namely, a legal assessment, and as in- 
dicating the causes of the failure of the two expedients of a self- 
imposed assessment and quarterly collections. It is taken from 
a minute of that kirk-session, dated 1st February 1812. 

** On considering the state of the poor, the session find that the 
ordinary funds are deficient about L. 400 ; that the usual modes 
of supplying the deficiency, out of a fund common to the three pa- 
rishes of Greenock have been abandoned. Namely, an assessment 
voluntarily entered into about twenty years ago, was abandoned, on 
account of a misunderstanding between the principal heritors of the 
landward part of the old parish and the smaller heritors and other 
inhabitants of Greenock. Afterwards quarterly collations at the 
church-doors, and latterly voluntary subscriptions, have been dis- 
continued, because the burden of supporting the poor was unequal- 
ly borne, and the measure had sunk into utter inefficacy. And, 
last of all, the again proposed assessment of the heritors and inha- 
bitants according to their means, to be managed as the subscrip- 
tion fund was, has been relinquished, on the alleged ground that 
each parish must assess, and apply its own funds to the main- 
tenance of its own poor. . • . They, therefore, unanimously 
resolve to fulfil the painful but only duty imposed on them by the 
law of the land. In compliance with these laws, the session ap- 
pointed their moderator, on the first Sabbath, to intimate to the 
whole heritors,'' &c. 

Mr Wilson, quoting from a report of the committee for the 
management of the affairs of the poor, gives a statement of the 
receipts and disbursements under the plan of voluntary contribu- 
tion in 1810. 

Revenue. 

«« Ordinary collections at the churches, 

Quarterly do. [at do. . 

Fees OD proclamation for marriage, 

Do. on mortoloths, .... 

Donations, chiefly from fees collected by the Justices of Peace, on affi- 

darits, ... 

InteresU and small fines, .... 

Deduct necessary expenses. 

The sums contributed by subscription were h. 712 13 

Tax or contribution from the heritors, one per cent* up* 
on their income, . . . L. 96 15 



L.4d3 IS 8 

83 19 10 

121 4 

29 5 6 


94 14 
34 


1 
2 


L.796 

84 


17 
5 


3 
3 



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484 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Brought over. 
And from the inhabitants, 7 subacriptions of L. 10 10 

3 do. 8 '^ 

3 do. 7 

4 do. 6 
14 do. 5 
48 do. 4 
34 do. 
90 do. 

188 do. - - 

216 do. from 48. to 20s. 95 10 




L. 1814 3 



Expenditure. 

To 477 ordinary poor, (who have wives, children, and other persons dependent on 
them, 326) with 5 insane paupers at from Is. 6d. to 168. per month, L.1149 18 
To 805 persons relieved by occasional supply, 304 12 6 

To 21 orphan children at from L. I, 10s. to L. 5, per quarter, . 122 5 

Funerals of paupers, GlothiDg,&c.* . 58 11 5 

L. 1630 6 11 

Mr Wilson, writing in 181 !» when the plan ofproviding for the 
poor by voluntary contribution bad not yet failed of success, de* 
clares himself decidedly favourable to this method* 

Let us now attend to the mode of making provision by legal as* 
sessment We shall first of all show its amount in the years af- 
ter the union of the three parishes, when the raising of money by 
assessment was finally established ; after which we shall compare 
the expenditure in[its various items under that system with the ex- 
penditure in 1810 already noticed — requesting the relider to bear 
in mind, that the assessment money is only a part of the revenue, 
and that the managers of the funds for the poor continue to re- 
ceive as before the ordinary Sabbath-day collections, proclama- 
tion-fees, &c It is also necessary to mention, that in 1817 a 
larger sum than usual was required to defray the expense of a pro- 
tracted litigation, in which the heritors were engaged, before the 
passing of the Act of Parliament prescribing the mode of imposing 
the assessment* 

Thepopulation by Goverment census in 1811 was 19,042. The 
three parishes were assessed in the following years in the sum of, 

, In 1817, . L.3100 In 1822, . L.3300 

1818, 2696 1823, . 2800 

1819, 2909 1824, 2750 

1820, . 2925 1825, 2700 
1821,population 22,088, 3155 1826, 1630 

• Wilson's Genera] View, p. 309. 

t The assessment is on the real rental, deducting one-fifth for repairs. For the 
last three years it has been 6^d per pound. 



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GBEEXOCK 




485 


In 1827, 


L.1920 


In 


1834. 


L.2600 


1828, 


220O 




1835, 


2572 


1829, 


2300 




1836, 


2640 


1880, 


2280 




1837, 


3185 


1831, population 27^71, 


2325 




1838, 


3578 


1892, 


2430 




1839, 


3418 


1883, 


2750 




1840, 


aw2 



Id 1838 a return was made by all the parishes in Scotland, to 
certain queries proposed by Her Majesty's Governtnent, with the 
view of obtaining information respecting the state and manage- 
ment of the poor in that part of the island. Referring to the an- 
swers for Greenock, let us now compare the numbers of the poor, 
and the money expended for their relief in 1837, with the num- 
bers and expenditure in 1810. 

In 1810, the population was 19,000, and the total expenditure 
L. 1630, 7s. lid. In 1837, the population was 28,000, expendi- 
ture L. 3668, 15s. lOd. In 1810, the number of poor on the per- 
manent roll was 503, on whom were expended L. 1272, 3s. being 
on an average L. 2, 10s. 6d. to each pauper — dependent on them, 
326. In- 1837, the number of the same class was 1061, on whom 
were expended L. 2993, ids. 9d., being on an average L. 2, 16s. 
5d to each pauper — dependent, 527« In 1810, the number of 
poor receiving occasional relief was 305, on whom was expended 
L. 304, 12s. 6d., being at the rate of L. 1 to each. In 1837, the 
number of persons of the same class was 981, among whom was 
distributed the sum of L. 395, 17s. 5d., being on an average 86. 
to each. In 1810, the number of orphan children was 21. In 1837, 
178. In 1810, the income from ordinary collections at the churches 
was L. 433^ 13s. 8d., and the income from all sources, L. 1814, 
36. In 1837, the income from ordinary collections was L. 323» 36. 
4d., and from all sources, L.3158, lOs., leaving L.509, 19s. lOd., 
the excess of expenditure to be provided for out of the assessment 
of 183a 

We are not at liberty to draw any sweeping conclusions from ex- 
periments in the management of the poor funds in any particular 
town or parish. But the writer of this account, attaching no more 
than their due weight to the facts which have now been stated, 
trusts that he may be permitted to make the following very obvi- 
ous remarks on the comparison which has now been instituted. 

In the first place, the increase of the population between 1810 
and 1837 was about one-third. If, therefore, there was a wise 
and effective administration of the affairs of the poor in the former 
of these periods, the increase of the expenditure and of the num- 



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486 RENFREWSHIRE. 

ber of paupers in the ktter, cateris paribus^ ought to have been ex- 
actly in the same proportion ; whereas both (we speak of the poor 
on the permanent roll) are more than doubled. Nay, if we look 
to the assessment in 1818, and add to it L. ($00 as the income 
from other sources, the expenditure at least appears to have more 
than doubled in eight years. And, if it was right that the expen- 
diture should be doubled in 1818» when the population was 20,000, 
assuredly it ought to have been much more than doubled in 1837, 
when the population had risen to 28»000« The writer of this ar- 
ticle is fully aware that the current of public opinion is running 
strong in ikvour of assessments, and that there are many who would 
plead for a much larger increase of expenditure. He, on the 
other hand, is humbly of opinion that the error is in the assess- 
ment principle. Its tendency is to increase the number of pau- 
pers without adding to the comlbrt of those already on the roll — 
to weaken or extinguish the manly independent spirit which in for- 
mer periods distinguished our Scottish poor — and to substitute for 
the fruit of their honest industry the miserable deceptive allow- 
ances of a parochial assessment. The difference between the 
average atlowance in 1810 and 1837 is only 5s. lid.; or, if we se- 
parate L. 192, the suin expended in 1810 on 5 insane persons and 
21 orphans, and the sum of L. 1174, Ss. Id., expended in the last 
of these years on 1 78 orphans and 24 insane paupers, the average 
allowance to the other poor on the permanent roll was, in the first 
of these years, L. 2 nearly, and in the latter, L. 1, 8s. 2id. 

It is not pretended that any inference can be drawn on either 
side from the extraordinary — may we not say, the monstrous in- 
crease on the number of poor receiving occasional relief, as appa- 
rent from the preceding statements. The error here is in the ad- 
ministration. One of the best parts of the Scottish system is its 
plan of occasional or temporary relief — in other words, the prac- 
tice of giving pecuniary aid to families in time of sickness or other 
emergencies, to enable them to weather a passing storm, with the 
distinct understanding, or the express announcement that the al- 
lowance is to be withdrawn when the occasion of giving it has 
ceased. On this ground, occasional relief, if given at all, ought 
to be given liberally. With all deference to his fellow-workers 
in Greenock, the writer is of opinion that nothing can be more 
absurd than to give to 981 persons in the way of occasional relief, 
pittances so miserable, that the average scarcely exceeds eight shil- 
lings per annum. One thing, however, may be presumed from ibe 



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GHEENOCK. 487 

immense increase on this class of poor, namely, that the assessment 
has created a host of mendicants who would be on the permanent 
roll, if they could, and whom good-natured elders and deacx)ns 
imagine it is necessary to appease with a crust of the large loaf 
which they are employed in dividing among their^ more^ needy 
brethren. 

The next observation on the comparative statement now made 
respects the singular fact, that the assessment in 1826 amounted 
to no more than L. 16G0 — in other words, to less than one-half of 
tlie assessment in 1822. The reduction was occasioned by the 
murmurings of the heritors and other rate^payers at the increase 
of the assessment ; and the consequent reduction of the number 
of pensioners, and the amount of their allowances. About twenty 
years ago, a similar murmuring took place in Glasgow from the 
same cause, and an inspector was appointed, with almost absolute 
power, to diminish the pension-roll and restrain the expenditure. 
But there is nothing in nature so elastic as the assessment princi- 
ple. Press down an assessment as you may, when the pressure 
is removed, it instantly starts back to it former magnitude. In 
two years from 1826, the assessment for Greenock rose nearly 
L. 600, and since that time it has risen gradually to L. 3500. 

The most mournful fact recorded in the preceding statements 
is the immense increase in the number of orphans. If the increase 
had been in proportion to that of the population, the^^number^f 
orphans ought to have been in 1887, about 30, whereas [it was 
178. The writer of this account has acertained that of that number 
50 were deserted children, namely, 22 deserted by their fathers'; 
22 by mothers ;* and 6 by both parents. Of the total excess in 1837 
98 remain to be acccounted for ; and it cannot be doubted that 
these were orphans, who, if there had been no assessment, would 
have been adopted by relatives, or taken up and provided for by 
the charitable and humane. 

Since the year 1837 the number of deserted children in the 
parish, of which the writer of this account is minister, and, he 
believes, in all the parishes of Greenock, has increased to a most 
alarming extent. It is impossible to escape from the inference 
which has so often been drawn from this and similar facts in the 
history of other parishes in Scotland, namely, that assessments 
have the effect, we do not say, of destroying natural affection in 
parents, for that principle cannot previously be strong in those 

* Widows or wires of absent or runaway seamen* 



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488 RENFREWSHIRE. 

who desert their children — ^but of separating parent from child, 
and of existing into the comparatively cold lap of a public provision 
those who ought to be cherished with the warm affection of pa- 
rents, or the enlightened Christian compassion of private persons. 

Increase your provision, says the benevolent Dr Alison ;* lay an 
assessment of L. 800,000 on the whole of Scotland ; give liberal- 
ly ; elevate the poor in the scale of society, and parents will cease 
to be dissolute ; they will not leave their children in despair of 
obtaining subsistence ; the poor will become moral, contented, 
and happy, when you have made adequate provision for them in 
food and raiment. 

This is not the place for replying at length to these proposak 
and arguments. We shall only say, therefore, that a more ex- 
tensive acquaintance with human nature, and the actual working 
of institutions for the, relief of mendicity, will probably induce the 
benevolent author of the ^^ Observations" to change his opinion. 
Increase the allowances to the poor five, six, seven fold ; and 
many who are now ashamed to beg, either from private persons, or 
from the administrators of our public charities, will think it no dis- 
grace to stand on a poor roll, and twice L. 800,000 will not suf- 
fice for the supply of the wants of the Scottish poor. Increase as 
you please the allowances to the poor, and. you will not change 
the dissolute habits of unnatural parents, whilst the effect of an in- 
crease will undoubtedly be to destroy in adult children, the feeling 
of obligation to support their infirm and aged parents, and in every 
Christian man and woman the sense of obligation under which they 
lie to communicate to the relief of the poor and needy around them. 

In Greenock, as elsewhere, a legal assessment has had a power- 
ful effect in diminishing the amount of church-door collections. 
In proof of this, it may be mentioned, that in 1832, the collections 
at the Middle Parish Church — ^the largest in this town — ^amounted 
to L. 151, and in 1837, without any diminution in the number of 
the congregation, they amounted to no more than L. .11 1, 16s. 8d. 

The history of the progress of pauperism in Greenock proves, 
in so far, at least, as the history of one town or district is suffi- 
cient for that purpose, that the neglect of church-extension al- 
most necessarily leads to a departure from the ancient Scottish 
mode of providing for the wants of the poor. Greenock, with a 
population of 15,000, and only three places of worship at which 
collections were made, was able to relieve its own poor without an 

* Obteryations oo the Management of the Poor in Scotland . 

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GREENOCK. -^SO 

assessment, and, we have every reason to believej^placed them in 
a more comfortable condition than they are at present. In pro- 
cess of time, the population and the number of Dissenters increas- 
ed, an assessment was resorted to ; it increased the number of 
paupers, but not the means of subsistence 5 it lessened our church 
door-collections, and our private charity, and last, and worst of all, 
it encouraged parents to turn a deaf ear to the call of instinctive 
parental aflfection, and to desert their own oflFspring. Mr Monypen- 
ny has clearly shown, that the only cure to these evils is to be 
found in an extension of the parochial system, that is, in the sub- 
division of our overgrown parishes, and the providing of a suffi- 
cient amount of pastoral and parochial superintendence.* The vo- 
luntary assumption of the care of their own paupers by the ma- 
nagers of the several congregations of all professing Christians, — 
a plan which has been sometimes talked of, might, in some mea- 
sure, mitigate the evil which the assessment is intended to remedy ; 
but there is no effectual cure but the dissemination of sound reli- 
gious principle, and the creation of moral habits, by a iaithful, af- 
fectionate, and zealous ministry. 

Prisons. — The following abstract is taken from a Report to 
Her Majesty's Government, by the Governor of the Greenock 
Jail, for the year commencing 1st August 1838, and ending 31st 
July 1839 :— 

Received during the year, as above computed, 1062, of whom 
there were 700 males, 362 females. The greatest number of 
criminals in jail at any one time during the year was 75 ; of whom 
there were, 44 males, 31 females. The average number of pri- 
soners during the year was about 46 ; of whom there were 
28^1 J males, 18 females. 

Distinguishing debtors and prisoners for offences against the re- 
venue from other prisoners, the average number of the first two 
classes, was as follows : imprisoned for debt, 5 ; for offences 
against the revenue, 3. 

Excluding these classes, the ages of the total number of pri- 
soners received during the year are shown as under : 

Under 14, - males, 16, females, 13 ; total 29. 

14, and under 17, males, 76, females, 55; total 131. 

17, and under 30, males, 320, females, 139; total 459. 

30, and under 40, males, 133, females, 91 ; total 224. 

40, and under 50, males, 86, females, 39 ; toUl 125. 

50, and under to, males, 35, females, 15; total 50.* 

60, and upwards, males, 7, females, 1 1 ; total 18. 

* The Claims of the Established Church of Scotland, by David Monypenny, Esq, 

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L.55 1 


7 


L..421 6 


5f 


L. 10 14 
i 4 


i* 



490 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Of the last-mentioDed class of prisoners, 71 males and 53 fe- 
males could neither read nor write ; 144 males, and 87 females, 
could either read or write, or could read and write imperfectly , 
119 males and 64 females could read well; but either could not 
write at all, or could write only imperfectly. 

The gross produce of prisoners* work during the year was - L.61 14 1^ 
Portion of earnings paid to prisoners, • - - 6 12 6 

Nett profits, ...... 

Nett expense of the prison daring the year, 

Average 6ost of each prisoner during the year, 

Arerage profit from eoch prisoner, ... 

Nett average cost of each criminal prisoner, • - L.9 4^ 

In addition to his other duties, the chaplain teaches the younger 
prisoners daily. The members of the Greenock Ladies' Associa- 
tion visit and converse with the female prisoners six hours in the 
week. 

It is the opinion of those who have the best opportunities of 
being informed on the subject, that offences against person and 
property are on the increase in this district, owing partly to the 
increase of the native population, and partly to the influx of arti- 
sans and others employed in the manufactories in the town and 
neighbourhood. 

The health of the prisoners seems to be carefully attended to 
in respect of diet and lodging. It is to be regretted, however, 
that the site of the prison is low and x^onfined ; and that the air- 
ing ground is not more extensive. The prison is well secured. 
There is a communication between it and the sheriff-court room 
which is almost immediately adjoining. 

Fai7'8. — There are two feirs yearly, one on the first Thursday 
of July, and the other on the fourth Tuesday of November. 

IniUj Alekousesj Sfc. — There are 31 inns and taverns in Gree- 
nock« and 275 houses for retailing ale and spirituous liquors. 
Taking the last of these separately, and computing the population 
of the whole parish at 30,000, there is a spirit or beer-shop to 
every 25 families, or thereabouts. The total number of licenses 
for inns and alehouses of all descriptions in 1821, was 233; it is 
now 306. The increase, it is satisfactory to think, is not in pro- 
portion to the increase of the population ; yet it cannot be denied 
that the number of spirit and ale-shopS far exceeds the real wants 

of the inhabitants of the district, aAd affords a lamentable, but ob- 

s 



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GRERNOCK. 491 

vious explanation of the disproportionate increase, of the poverty 
and wretchedness of the lower classes. 

Puel — It is almost unnecessary to observe, that coal is the spe- 
cies of fuel universally used in this parish, except in the moorland 
part of it, where peat or turf is in common use. The coal is im- 
ported from Glasgow, Ayrshire, and other places. 

Ml$CELLAN£OUS OBSERVATIONS. 

On a general review of the facts stated in the preceding account, 
it appears that, with the exception of improvement by draining and 
better cultivation on the arable ground, and the erection of more 
commodious farm steadings, very little alteration has taken place 
during the last forty-five years,— the period which has elapsed since 
the writing of the last Statistical Account — on the rural orlandward 
part of this parish. But the increase of the population and wealth 
of the town and suburbs, during the same period, has been immense. 
In 1799, the population was about 14,000 ; it is now more than 
double that amount. It was then confined almost entirely to the 
level ground in the vicinity of the river ; it is now spreading itself 
rapidly over the rising ground above. The harbour revenue was 
then little more than L. 800 per annum ; it is now L. 12,000. 
There was then only one banking establishment in Greenock ; 
now there are six.* The real capital was comparatively small, 
and the principal part of the trade in the hands of merchants in 
Glasgow ; the real capital is quintupled, and our principal ship- 
owners and merchants are resident in Greenock. The writer of 
the last Statistical Account complains that sea-port towns are 
by no means favourable to manufactures, and mentions a rope- 
work, several cordage and sail-cloth manufactories, soap and caudle- 
works, and two sugar-houses, as the only considerable manufactories 
of which Greenock could then boast. Now its manufactories are 
multiplying and increasing to such an extent, as to place it at no 
mean height in the list of the manufacturing towns of Scotland. In 
1 793^ there were two parish-churches and two chapels of ease ; 
including the latter there are now eight churches connected with 
the Establishment. Two commodious places of worship with se- 
veral smaller edifices, have been added during the same period to 

* The Greenock Bank Company, the first native bank, was established in 1785. 
Mr James Millar, afterwards Professor of Mathematics in the University of Glasgow, 
was the-fi.st cashier.. The Renfrewshire Bank began to transact busiuess in 1802. 
The branches of the Glasgow Union bank of Scotland, Royal Bank, and Western 
Bank, have all been opened within the last ten years. It is in contemplation to es- 
tablish another banking establishment under the designation of the Greenock Union. 



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492 RENFREWSHIRE. 

the churches of the Evangelical Dissenters. Schools have been 
erected, and a mechanics' institution house has been built And} 
lastly, the town of Greenock,^ which not long ago had no share of 
the representation in Parliament, has now the privilege of sending 
one Member to the House of Commons. 

If we extend our retrospect to the beginning of last century, 
the progress which this town has made is still more remarkable. 
It was then a small fishing village ; it is now a great commercial 
town. Under a kind and merciful Providence it owes its commer- 
cial prosperity to its local advantages ; to the liberal and enlight- 
ened policy of its barons superior in former and later times ; and, 
above all, to the enterprising spirit of its inhabitants. To what 
elevation it is yet destined to rise in this respect, is known only to 
Him to whom all His works are known from the beginning to the 
end. The improvements which are now making on the means of 
communication are so rapid and extraordinary, that no man can 
presume to calculate what will be the result to the several manu- 
facturing and commercial towns throughout the kingdom. Green- 
ock may decline. Its commerce and manufactures may be injur- 
ed, perhaps annihilated, by the successful competition of other 
places. Like Tyre it may one day become a place for fisher- 
men to spread nets upon : or it may be bereft of its greatness 
without returning to its former simplicity. One thiifig is certain, 
that the continuance and increase of our commercial prosperity 
depend essentially on the causes which gave it birth. The acti- 
vity and enterprise of our merchants and manufacturers must, and, 
we doubt not, will be stimulated and directed by the judicious ar- 
rangements of our civic rulers on the one hand, and the fostering 
care and liberal policy of the Legislature and Her Majesty's Go- 
vernment, and the principal landed proprietors, on the other. 
Enjoying these advantages, Greenock will, we trust, continue 
to hold her place in the mighty competition, which, if it has 
not already commenced, is fast approaching, and will rise to 
still higher eminence than she has yet attained. That this may 
be her lot is the earnest wish of the writer of this Account To 
that wish he would add his fervent prayers for better and more en- 
during blessings. It is a fine sentiment which is embodied in the 
motto of a neighbouring city, " Let Glasgow flourish by the 
preaching of the word." Sound religious and moral principle is 
the only solid foundation on which the prosperity of nations, and 
cities, and families can rest. It is the only pledge which men can 



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GREENOCK. 493 

have for the continuance of national and domestic prosperity. 
Take away from the mass of the community the fear of God, the 
belief of a future judgment, and reverence for the Scriptures of 
truth, and what is proudly called ** the majesty of the law*' will 
prove but a feeble restraint on the fierce and unruly passions of 
the human heart. Diffuse the knowledge of pure religion, let its 
healing virtue descend on the dwellings of the rich, and the 
humbler habitations of the poor, and to the higher spiritual bles- 
sings of which it shall be productive, there shall be added the con- 
tentment, the peacefulness, the temporal prosperity which are its 
natural fruits, and in the good providence of God its gracious and 
blissful reward. 



Copy of Charier referred to in page 414. 
" JAMES Be the grace of god king of Scotts To or collectors 
and vthers vnder ressaveris of the stentis taxationis subsydis and 
impositionis ordiner and extraordinar to be raisit and imposit with- 
in this realme and all or officeris executors of ony or vther Irez to 
be dirict thairvpoun lieges and subdites quhome it efferis quhais 
knawlege thir or Irez sail cnm gretin WIT YE WS being 
movit w^ the emest zeill and grite affection o*^ louit Johnne schaw 
of grenok hes ay had to goddis glorie and propagatioun of the trew 
religioun sen the first professing of the same within o^ realm And 
that he continewing in that godlie mynd and gude intentioun vpoun 
sindrie ressounable considerationis moving him of conscience and 
reuerence be beiris to goddis Name Is willing not onlie on his 
awin coist to Erect and big one parroche kirk vpoun his awin he- 
retage Bot also to appoynt and designne mans and gaird to the 
samyn w« the haill profiitte and comoditie he hes of teind belang- 
ing to the kirk for the help and supporte of the sustentatioun of 
ane minister thairat Sua that the puir pepill duelling vpoun his 
lands and heretage qlkis ar all fischers and of a ressounable nowmer 
duelland four myles fra thair parroche kirk and having ane greit 
river to pas over to the samyn May haif ane ease in winter seasoun 
and better comoditie to convene to goddis sluice on the sabboth 
day and rest according to goddis institutioun Beand weill allowit 
of to proceid in the samyn weirk baith be the generall assemblie 
of the kirk and synodall assemblie of the provine qln he remanis 



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494 RKNPBEWSHlUh. 

And we vnderstanding that the accomplisheing of the said godlie 
and gude wark Will be large coist and expense and grite panes and 
travelHs to the said Johnne and his tenentis THAIRFOIR that 
thai fasche not nor be hinderit thairin hot rather be encourageit 
and haif gude occasioun to performe the samyn WE efter o"^ lauch- 
fuil and perfy te aige of Tuentie ane yers compleit and general! re- 
vocatioun maid in or parliament Haif gevin grantit and comittit 
and be thir o^ Irez gevis grantis and comittis to the said Johnne 
schaw of grenok Oure fiill power speciall libertie fiicultie and li- 
cence To erect and big the said kirk and designne mans and gaird 
thairto In and vpoun ony pairt or place within the bounds of his 
awin lands and heretage quhair he sail think maist comodious and 
convenient quhairat his hail! tenentis salbe haldin to cobvene to 
heir goddis worde and Ressaue the sacramentis in all tyme cum- 
ing and ordanis the samyn to be callit the parroche kirk of gren- 
ok And thairfoir exeme him his airis and teunentis of his lands 
and heretage now had and to be had be him and thame fra all 
keping and convening to their auld parroche kirk in ony tymes 
cuming Bot at thair awin will and ples^ be thir o*^ Irez And de- 
clairis thame to be frie and perpetuallie exonerit and dischairgit of 
all charge and burding of the samyn in stent taxatioun bigging 
beitting or ony vther manner of way in tyme cuming And forder 
vpoun the cause and considerationis foirsaidis we erneistlie willing 
the said Johnnes godlie inteatioun foirsaid and being of gude 
mynd to move him thairto and recompance him for the samyn 
Be the tennor of thir o^ Irez Exemis the said Johnne his airis and 
tennentis pnt and to cum duelling vpoun his proper lands and here- 
tage of grenok fynnartie and spangok with thsiir pertinentis extend- 
ing all to twenty aucht pund xiij s worth of land of auld extent lyand 
within the parochin of Innerkipe and or srefdome of Renfrew ffra 
all payment of ony pairt of ony taxatioun stent subside charge and 
impositioun qtsumeuir to be raisit or imposit within this realme in 
ony tymes heirefter ather ordiner or extraordiner for ony caus or 
occasioun that may happin, &c. &c Gevin vnder o^ privie seill 
AT halyruidhous the auchtene day of Nouember The yeirof god 
Jm yc fourscoir nine yeiris And of or Regnne the twentie thrie 
yeir per signaturam munibus S D N Regis ac cancelarij subscript/' 

December 1840. 



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PARISH OF CATHCART. 

PRESBYTEUY OF GLASGOW, SYNOD OF GLASGOW 4ND AYR. 

THE REV. JAMES SMITH, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Name, Boundaries^ 4*c. — The original name of this parish ap- 
pears to have been Keth or Karihkert, and Carcart is still the 
vulgar pronunciation. The word is of Celtic origin, denoting the 
Castle of the Cart, or fertilizing stream. The parish is of great 
antiquity ; the kirk of Kerthkert, with its pertinents, having been 
appropriated by Walter Lord High Steward of Scotland in 1160, 
to the monastery of Paisley. The larger portion of the parish is 
situated in Renfrewshire, but the extensive estates of Aikenhead 
and Dripps are in the county of Lanark. The lands of the latter 
estate, which lie about a mile apart from the rest of the parish, 
were annexed quoad sacra to the parish of Carmunnock in 1725, 
by an amicable arrangement among the parties interested, to which 
the Lords Commissioners for Plantation of Kirks gave their sanc- 
tion. The reason of this disjunction was the greater proximity of 
Dripps to the parish church of Carmunnock, and a consequent 
regard to the convenience of its inhabitants in the enjoyment of 
church privileges. In the map of Renfrewshire, published by 
Ainslie in 1 796, the lands of Polmadie, which touch the Clyde 
at a point opposite the Flesher's Haugh in the Green of Glasgow, 
are included in the parish of Cathcart There is no doubt in the 
writer's mind, from many circumstances, that they originally be- 
longed to it and do so still, although now annexed quoad sacra to 
the parish of Gorbals, and paying their teind to the College of 
Glasgow. If this be the case, the parish of Cathcart, quoad cm- 
lia^ extends in length from north to south, about five miles, while 
its breadth from east to west averages little more than a mile. It 
is bounded on the east by Rutherglen and Carmunnock : on the 
north, by Gorbals and Govan ; on the west, by Eastwood ; and on 
the south, by Mearns and Eaglesham. 

Topographical Appearances. — The undulating surface is beauti- 

RENFREW. K k 



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49S IlENFREVVSHIRK* 

fully diversified with hill and dale, wood and water. None of the 
hills rise to any considerable height, and all of them are cultivat- 
ed to the summit. Through its rich and fertile fields, the river 
Cart winds its way in romantic beauty, sometimes dashing onwards 
overhung by precipitous and woody banks, sometimes passing 
smoothly through holm lands, whose prolific alluvial soil it former- 
ly enriched. How very different must the present appearance of 
Cathcart be from what it was ages ago, when consisting of wood 
and marsh, as is intimated by the names of places throughout its 
whole extent. There are, for instance, Aikenhead, Hagginshaw, 
Woodside, Williamwood, Woodend, Muirend, Bogton and Moss* 
side. 

Meteoroloffi/j Sfc. — The temperature of the parish is comparative- 
* ly mild, owing, in all probability, to the numerous plantations, which 
give shelter from the storms, and to the system of draining which 
has been generally adopted, by which the rain, instead of lying on 
the surface to evaporate, is immediately carried off to the river. 
The climate is accounted most salubrious, and there are no dis- 
tempers indigenous to the district. Very few infectious diseases 
have beeu known to spread among the inhabitants, with the excep- 
tion of cholera, which visited the northern part of the parish in 18i32, 
and, to a much more alarming extent, the village of New Cath- 
cart in 1834. In that village alone one in seven of the population 
was assailed,- and one in twenty-four was carried off by that oriental 
plague. From the proximity of Cathcart to the densely peopled 
city of Glasgow, where disease is ever revelling, the complaints 
prevalent there are frequently imported, butseldom, even in the case 
of typhus fever, extend themselves in the neighbourhood to which 
they are unhappily introduced. The village of Langside is con- 
sidered to be peculiarly healthy, and although the writer has 
known many instances of fever patients returning to their families 
there, he is not aware that there is any instance of the malady 
being communicated by infection. The most insalubrious wind 
to which the parish is exposed, and during the continuance of 
which disease is most prevalent, blows from the north-east, but a 
westerly wind is much more frequent, as appears from the general 
bend of the trees towards the east 

Hydrography. — The springs are numerous, and may in general 

' be called perennial. In a season of long protracted drought, those 

in the higher grounds usually fail, but there is seldom any reason 

to complain of a plentiful supply of good drinking water. Some 



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CATHCART. 497 

springs which formerly existed have disappeared, more especially 
in the yicinity of coal mines, which in all probability have either 
interfered with their flow or reached their source. The river 
Cart, which rises in the hills above Eaglesham, flows through the 
parish, passing into Eastwood at Pollokshaws, and receiving in its 
course a few small tributary rills, but augmented in a much higher 
proportion by the drains, both open and covered, which the«pro« 
prietors, in the praiseworthy spirit of agricultural improvement, 
have made to pour into it on every side. It is said at one time to 
have abounded with trout, but their number is now very much di- 
minished, and thi:s diminution is attributed partly to the general 
use of lime in husbandry, and partly to the diligence of poachers 
in the faithful prosecution of their calling. The waters contri- 
bute much to the industrial resources of the inhabitants, as they 
keep no less than four public works in constant operation. In the 
former Statistical Account of this parish, mention is made of a 
stream falling into the river a little above the old bridge, and having 
a petrifying power upon vegetable substances. The writer has 
never been able to ascertain its existence, nor even to discover 
any tradition regarding it, 

Geology.^^lt is unnecessary to enter into any minute account 
of the geological character of the parish, which is exactly similar 
to that of those around it. Cathcart covers part of the great coal 
basin, which extends from the trap hills of Campsie on the north 
to those of Gathkin on the south. Mines of coal and lime have 
frequently been worked with success, although there are none at 
present in operation. There is abundance of ironstone of the very 
best quality on the estate of Linn, and probably in other places, 
which is likely ere long to turn to the good account of the pro- 
prietor, in consequence of the number of blast-furnaces which have 
recently been erected in the immediate vicinity of the parish. At 
Crosshill there is a large quarry of excellent freestone, which is 
regularly contributing to the ornament of Glasgow, and to the 
comfort of its inhabitants. Minerals of various kinds are to be 
found in the channel of the Cart, a valuable collection of which, 
made by Lord Greenock in this and the parishes adjoining, has 
been presented by his Lordship to the Hunterian Museum, con- 
nected with the College of Glasgow. 

Zoology^ Botany and SoiL — The parish abounds in hares of a 
very large size; and of late, to the terror of all who wish well to 
agriculture, rabbits have made their appearance. Foxes are too 



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498 RENFREWSHIRE. 

plenty in the neighbourhood, even, it is belicTed, for the taste of the 
sportsman, and their predatory incursions are far from encourag- 
ing the people to increase the number of their poultry. There are 
still a few trout in the river to reward the patient angler, who can 
derive pleasure from an occasional nibble, and those who love the 
gastronomic delicacies of the eel, when subjected to culinary skill, 
cannot complain of insufficient materials for the indulgence of their 
inclination. — This parish has long been a favourite place of re- 
sort to the botanical student, from the great variety of its natural 
vegetable productions. On the banks of the river are to be found 
the finest specimens of the greater number of those wild flowers 
which are indigenous to Scotland. Those botanists who are ac- 
quainted with Sir William Hooker^s Flora Scotica know well how 
frequently reference is made to the borders of the Cart. The 
author of the last Statistical Account of Cathcart complains grie- 
vously of the war waged with the ancient forests of our country, 
and of the consequent scarcity of trees here as in other parts of 
Scotland. In so far as this parish is concerned, the ground of 
former complaint is now removed ; as, besides the venerable re- 
mains of native woods still surviving the general wreck, we have 
very many thriving plantations growing up in every direction, and, 
by their judicious arrangement, adding at once to the ornament of 
the country, the productiveness of the soil, and the comfort of the 
inhabitants. The soil is very various in quality. In the lower 
lands it consists of a deep rich alluvial loam with a gravelly sub- 
soil, and the higher of clay, occasioning a great variety in the fer- 
tility of the several farms within the parish, notwithstanding its li- 
mited extent, and consequently a great disproportion in the value 
of the several estates to their territorial dimensions. In all parts of 
the parish, however, in consequence of those improvements which 
science has suggested being universally adopted, and in conse- 
quence also of its proximity to Glasgow, that great metropolis of 
manure, the soil is rapidly improving ; and acres, forty years ago, 
untouched by the plough, are now giving annually to the people 
the most abundant crops of grain of every kind. 

II. — Civil Histort. 

There is an account of this parish to be found in the History 
of Renfrewshire, published by Crawford in 1710. 

Family of Cathcart — More than 700 years ago, the parish be- 
came the property of a family which is now represented by a noble- 
wan who bearsat once the surname and the title of Cathcart, and who 



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CATUCAIIT 499 

has increased the splendour of a name always illustrious by his deeds 
as a soldier in the Geld of action, as a senator in the House of Peers, 
and as the Ambassador Plenipotentiary of his country on a most mo- 
mentous mission. In the register of Paisley we find Rainaldus de 
Catbcart in 1 179 a witness to the donation of the church of Cath- 
cart, with all its pertinents, to the monastery of that town, by 
Alan, the son of Walter, Dapifer regis Scotiae. In 1447, the fa- 
mily was ennobled by King James II., who declared Sir Alan, 
then the head of the house, to be Nobilis et Magnificus Dominus 
de Catbcart, Dominus ejusdem. In 1546, the ancient family estate 
was alienated by Alan, the third Lord Catbcart, and passed into 
the possession of the noble family of Semple, with whom it conti- 
nued for many generations. The history of this house gives weight 
to the opinion that religious zeal, forensie talent, and military va- 
lour are hereditary. The first great inroad on the property of the 
family, in so far as this parish is concerned, was occasioned by 
their donations to the monastery of Pftisley, and in Paisley Abbey 
the principal pillar, still decorated with the Catbcart arms, was 
wholly built at their expense. Three of the family fell at Flod- 
den in 1513.* Their noble nephew fell at Pinkie in 1547. His 
successor, the fourth Lord Catbcart, was distinguished by his ener- 
getic efforts to promote the reformation of religion in Scotland, 
and by his valorous conduct at the battle of Langside. The 
eighth Lord Catbcart, as Colonel of the Scots Greys, contributed 
to the victory achieved at Sheriffmuir over the army of the rebels, 
atid died commander of the forces in America. The present Earl 
commanded the military forces at the taking of Copenhagen in 
1807, being in that expedition the superior officer of the Duke of 
Wellington, whose name before illustrious in India, then appeared 
for the first time in European warfare, and earned by his services 
not only the gratitude of his country, but new honours from his 
King. The venerable Earl now lives, the repossessor of the castle of 
bis fathers, senior on the list of advocates at the Scottish Bar, and 
of generals of the British empire ; and no less than two of his sons 
enjoy the enviable distinction of having fought the battle of their 
country on the field of Waterloo. 

The more ancient families of the parish have disappeared, 
or are now disappearing, with the exception of the Noble house 
above alluded to, who have returned to the dwelling of their 
fathers after centuries of absence. The Blairs of Bogton, now 
represented by the family of Blair, have no longer any pro- 



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5l00 RENFREWSHIRE. 

perty in the parish. The plough passes annually over the 
foundation of their once formidable castle, the stones of which 
form the garden wall of a retired Glasgow merchant. The 
same may be said of the Maxwells of Williamwood, the traces of 
whose family seat, which appears to have been built in the style of 
Saxon architecture, are now with difficulty to be diecoyered. The 
estate passed into the possession of a gentleman of the name of 
Stewart, and is now the property of his son. The Hamiltons of 
Aikenhead, cadets of the ducal family of that name, were at one 
time very extensive proprietors, holding the lands of Langside, 
Holmhead, and others. The last representative of the family is 
the present Miss Hamilton, with whom the name must terminate, 
and to whom Holmhead is the whole now left of their once 
wide domains in this parish. The largest heritor at the pre- 
sent day is Sir John Maxwell of Pollok, whose residence is, how- 
ever, in Eastwood, so that to the statistical historian of that pa* 
rish belongs the pleasing task of recording the many distinguished 
services rendered to their country by the successive generations of 
that most ancient and honourable house. 

The largest resident heritor is Gordon of Aikenhead, who is 
also the patron. About twenty years ago, a splendid mansion- 
house, highly ornamental to the parish, was erected by the father 
of the present proprietor ; and of late years the estate, extensive 
from the first, has been greatly augmented by the acquisition of 
the very beautiful and romantic property of the Linn. The heri- 
tors of the parish are now about thirty in number, and the princi- 
pal of them are, in addition to those already mentioned, Graham 
of Dripps, Brown of Langside, Thomson of Camphill, Clark of 
Crossbill, the hill on which, there being no natural boundary 
to the parish at that place, the cross, according to the practice in 
Catholic times, was erected to mark the limit 

Parochial Registers. — There is no parochial register of an ear- 
lier date than the year 1707, although it appears from a minute 
of heritors about sixty years ago, when a session-clerk was chosen, 
that there was a more ancient record then in existence consigned 
to his charge, which has unfortunately been lost. The session 
minute-books which remain have been kept in extremely good' or- 
der, and, instead of being deficient, are, perhaps, too abundant in 
their detail of the cases of scandal which were occurring in the pa- 
rish during the last century, with one exception in the case of the 
Rev. Mr Adam, on wh'Ose too true tale is founded the deeply in«- 



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CATHCAHT. 501 

teresting work of fiction which one of the most talented authors of 
the age gave to the public some years ago, under the title of Adam 
Blair. The matter is alluded to in very few words, and simply 
referred to the presbytery — a circumstance which, while it disap- 
points the reader, gives the strongest evidence of the tender regard 
of the elders to their unhappy and erring pastor, who, after a tem- 
porary suspension, during which he gave the most convincing evi- 
dence of sincere repentance, was restored to his charge by the su- 
perior church court, in answer to the earnest and affectionate pe- 
titions of the people, and soon recovered, by increased fidelity and 
diligence in the discharge of his sacred duties, a place in the 
esteem of his parishioners as high as that which he had enjoyed be- 
fore his fall. 

Jniiquities^ — About thirty years ago, on the farm of Overlee, 
which lies on the north bank of the river Cart, in the south-west 
angle of the parish, Mr Watson, the proprietor, on removing the 
earth from a quarry which he wished to open, discovered a great 
many subterraneous houses ranged round the slope of a small swel- 
ling hill. Each house consisted of one apartment, from eight to 
twelve feet square. The sides, which were from four to five feet 
high, were faced with rough undressed stone, and the floors were 
neatly paved with thin flag stones which are found in the neigh- 
bourhood. In the centre of each floor was a hole scooped out as 
a fire-place, in which coal-ashes still remained, and seemed to in* 
dicate that their occupiers had left the place on a sudden. That 
coal and not wood or peat had been employed as fuel, seemed at 
first an argument iigainst the antiquity of the houses, until it was 
remembered that many seams of coal crop out on the steep banks 
of the river in the immediate vicinity, which may have been pick- 
ed out for firing by the aboriginal inhabitants, as is still done to a 
limited extent by a few of the poorer classes in the neighbourhood. 
Near the fire-places were found small heaps of water-worn pebbles, 
from two to three inches in diameter, the use of which it is diffi- 
cult to conjecture. They may have been used as missiles for at- 
tack or defence in the rude warfare of ancient days, or more pro- 
bably they served the purposes of an equally rude system of cook- 
ery, by which meat was prepared for being eaten by heated stones 
placed round it, as is still done in many of the South Sea islands. 
The floors of the houses were covered to the depth of about a foot 
with a rich black vegetable mould, which was in all likelihood the 
decayed remains of the roofs mixed with soil filtered from the sur- 
face. As was gathered from the different appearances of the soilj 



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5(]2 RENFREWSHIRE. 

in and over tbem, the houses were partly excavated from the hill 
alid partly built above ground, and a level approach to the en- 
trances was dug out of the slope. The number discovered 
amounted to forty-two, of which thirty-six formed the arc of a 
lower and larger circle, and the remaining six, also circularly 
ranged, stood a little higher up the hill. The writer is informed 
that the ruins of villages of a similar description have been disco- 
vered in several parts of Scotland ; and there is an account of one 
very much the same as the above, recorded in the third volume of 
the Transactions of the Antiquarian Society of Scotland. About 
twelve querns or small hand-mills were found near the site of these 
houses, and a grave lined with stone containing a rude urn filled with 
ashes. These latter relics, however, may have belonged to a still 
distant but less remote antiquity. The old castle of Lee or Wil- 
liamwood was erected near the place, and it is not improbable that, 
in procuring materials for the building from the freestone, of which 
the hill consists, the soil, which for so many centuries concealed 
the remains of the village, was thrown down upon it. Several 
years ago, the proprietor, in clearing away the old foundations of 
the castle, which interfered with the rectilineal operations of the 
plough, found within the square which they enclosed many hu- 
man bones, which he avers were of almost superhuman magnitude. 
If the natives of the village, described above, deserted their 
homes hastily, as may be conjectured from the fact of the fuel re- 
maining on their hearths, it may have been in terror of the Romans, 
— one division of whose invading army must have passed not far from 
the place. In a direct north-east line from this hill, without any 
intervening eminence, and at the distance of about two miles, there 
are still very distinct traces of a small Roman encampment on the 
summit of a hill, the name of which, from the circumstance, is 
Camp Hill. It must have been the station of some small subdi- 
vision of the Roman army placed there, at once to keep the na- 
tives in check, and to perform the duty of sentinels. For these 
purposes the site was admirably chosen, as it commands an exten- 
sive view, not only of the country for many miles round, but also 
of the counties of Argyleand Dumbarton, over which the power of 
ancient Rome never triumphed. May not our villagers of Overlee, 
in their yearning after liberty, have made some movement to excite 
the special hostility of this garrison, and to occasion their being 
compelled to a hasty flight from their homes by the well-disci- 
plined and experienced troops of the Imperial army. The camp 
is circular, with a diameter of about 100 yards. The vallum, which 



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CATHCART. 503 

is still very perfect, is 7 feet high on the outside, and 4 feet wide 
on the top. There seem to have been three entrances to the 
camp, nearly trisecting the encircling rampart, but of these the ap- 
proach from the north-west was the principal, leading directly to 
the prsetorium or generars tent, the position of which is still 
marked by a slight elevation of the ground on which it was pitched. 
About thirty years ago, a Roman vase, of elegant form and exqui- 
site workmanship, was found by the late minister of the parish, in 
preparing for the foundation of an addition to the house on his 
property at Woodend, and is now in the possession of the Hunterian 
Museum of Glasgow ; but, in so far as the writer has discovered, 
this is the only existing specimen of Italian manufacture left 
by the Roman soldiers during their sojourn in this parish. To 
the south-west of the eminence on which the remains of the Ro- 
man encampment are to be seen, and nearly on the ridge of the 
same long hill, whose other elevated extremity is crowned by 
Langside House, stands the village of Langside, rendered ever me- 
morable in Scottish history, by the fatal day when the lovely but 
ill-starred Mary appeared for the last time as a queen and a free 
woman. A sufficiently accurate detail, to which tradition now can 
add nothing, of the battle fought on that eventful day, the Idth 
of May 1568, fraught with so many real blessings to Scotland, 
— yet even now contemplated with mixed feelings of pleasure and 
of pain by every leal-hearted Scotsman, is given by every writer 
of Scottish history, and the minute discrepancies which appear in 
their several narratives would not probably have existed, had they 
been better acquainted with the localities of the scene of action* 
The writer has no intention to describe the battle, but, as modern 
innovation is ever removing ancient landmarks, it may be well to 
record a short account of the field as it existed when the battle 
was fought, according to his best judgment formed on the spot, 
with the various authors in his hand, elucidated by traditionary 
report of the nature of the old roads leading through the parish, 
and of the general condition of the ground. The' high road from 
Hamilton to Dumbarton either passed through Glasgow, crossing 
the Clyde at a ford n^r Dalmarnock, which was the way the Re- 
gent expected the Queen to take when, on the morning of the 13th, 
he drew up his troops at Barrowfield to meet her; or through Ru- 
therglen, — entering this parish at Hagginshaw, — ^passing along the 
ridge of the hill now known as Mount Floridon, — then coinciding 
with the road from Glasgow to Ayr, which wound round the south 
side of the Clincart Hill, from which, about 100 yards to the 



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504 RENFREWSHIRE. 

west of the present Ayrshire road, it again diverged to the right, 
— ^proceeded along the bank of a morass, by what is now called 
the Bushy- Aik-Lane, and then conducted directly to the village 
of Langside, while the road to Ayr proceeded south, crossing 
the Cart at a bridge near the old castle, which still remains. 
In crossing Mount Floridon, Queen Mary's generals must have 
seen the enemy's forces rapidly forming after their hurried march 
from Barrowfield on the opposite hill, and preparing to dispute their 
further advance. It was determined to give battle, and, on reaching 
the Ayrshire road, the cavalry deployed into line on the northern 
face of the Clincart Hill, there being then no fences to the fields, 
but only native furze to impede the operations of the horsemen. 
The infantry pursued their way with impetuosity by the common 
road already described, while the Queen with her personal staff 
proceeded along the road to Ayr to an elevated position, long 
noted by a thorn, now marked by a small clump of trees, near the 
Castle of Cathcart, whose lord had recently parted with the pos- 
session of it, and was that day fighting in the ranks of her adver- 
saries, but with the usual succesg of the family in military mat- 
ters, on the winning side. A division of Murray's horse drew up 
on the ground where the farm-house of Pathhead now stands, and 
another about half-way between that and Langside, while in the 
latter village were stationed the great body of the iniantry and 
artillery, whose cannon, — ^planted in the village gardens, and 
raking the direct road up which the Queen's infantry had to ad* 
vance, — would^ in the more scientific hands of modern gunners, 
have effectually prevented that close and almost pugilistic fight, 
which, when blades were shiveredj was for some time maintained 
at the entrance to the village, until the Royal troops were assailed 
in flank by the horsemen of the enemy. That the shock of ca- 
valry took place in the hollow between the two hills on which the 
opposing troops were at jBrst drawn up, is probable^ and the more 
so from many relics of the sharp though short conflict having been 
found by the present intelligent occupier of the farm, in opening 
a trench some years ago for the peaceful purposes of agriculture. 
When the unhappy Queen, from her station on the Court Hill of 
Cathcart, which commanded a view of the whole scene of action, saw 
the tide of battle irretrievably turned against her gallant defenders, 
she, with her attendants, galloped off by a lane which joins the road 
to Rutherglen at the Hagginshaw, and which, from the difficulty 
she experienced in bringing her horse through its muddy avenue, 
is still known by the name of Mai's Mire. 



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CATHCAIIT-. 505 

Sir Walter Scott, in one of his magnificent semi*hisloricaI works 
of fiction, which will be read by ten for one of those who study 
true history, has placed Mary as a witness of the fight at Cruik- 
ston Castle, to which she could not have come without passing 
through the opposing army, from which also flight would have been 
impossible, and at which no part of the field of Langside is to be 
seen, — an error to which the writer would not have alluded, as it 
heightens the interest of the novel, were it not again repeated in 
the Tales of a Grandfather, which are deservedly admitted as au- 
thentic history, — and few there are in .Scotland who are not wilK 
ing to receive, without cavil, any national narrative whatever upon 
the mere authority of that illustrious man !* 

Small earthen pots filled with foreign silver coin of the seven- 
teenth century have, from time to time, been dug up, chiefly 
on the farm of Newlands. For what reason, and by what per- 
son, they were buried in the earth, it is impossible to say, and 
no local tradition throws any light upon the matter* It is not im- 
probable that some cavalier of fortune, some Dugald Dalgetty, 
returning from service on the Continent, and taking part in the 
struggle which then agitated his native country, had sought in this 
manner to secure by concealment his mercenary gain, till a peace 
should be restored which he did not live tp witness. 

III. — Population. 
The population of this parish can scarcely be considered on the 
increase. The new village of Cathcart owed its existence to a 
new line of road into Ayrshire, formed about forty years ago, and 
crossing the river by a bridge built in 1800, about 300 yards be- 
low the old one, over what was formerly a ford, on the road from 
Carmunnock to Pollokshaws : and the inhabitants were increased 
in number by the opening of a coal mine, which gave employment 
to many families. The working of the mine has been disconti- 
nued for some years, and is not likely to recommence ; and the 
new high road from Glasgow to Ayr, opened six years since, pas- 
ses to the north of the parish, only touching it at one point. The 
direct tendency of removing, in a great* measure, this crowded 
thoroughfare, is to interfere with the callings of many whose pros- 
perity was connected with its continuance, and thus to diminish 

* In a note to the last edition of the Abbot, published under correction of Sir 
"Walter, the mistake pointed out to him by Mr M*Vean of Glasgow is acknowledg- 
ed. In the same note there is given from an ancient writer a short and spirited ac- 
count of the battle. In the sentence which concludes the note, however, the word 
Rutherglen must be substituted for Renfrew. 



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Sl)6 RENFREWSHIRE. 

the number of residenters. Although, therefore, the general cen- 
sus, lately taken, shows an apparent increase of the population 
within the last ten years, that increase would have appeared much 
more considerable had the list of the inhabitants been made out 
five years ago. The writer uses the word " apparent," as the late 
census was made at a season of the year when many families, usu- 
ally resident in Glasgow, take houses in this parish for the benefit 
of country air. 

1841. 

Ist District. 0]d Cathcart, with the country Families. Males. Females. Total. 

around it, . . 72 167 173 340 

2d do. New Cathcart, &c. . 89 193 212 405 

dd do. Clarkstone Toll, &c. . 63 166 164 330 

4th do. Lang8ide,&c. . . 93 237 242 479 

5th do. We8tfield,&c. . . 124 283 304 587 

In the Renfrewshire portion of the — -^— ■ 

pariah, there is a total of 441 1046 1095 2141 

6th do. Estate of Dripps, 16 59 46 105 

7th do. Estate of Aikenhead, 18 49 54 108 

In Lanarkshire - 34 106 ToO 208 
In both counties exclusive of Pol- 

madie, included in the Govan 

census, . . 475 1154 1195 2349 

Population in 1821, . - - 2()56 

Population in 1831, - 441 1145 1137 2282 

Habits and Character of the People. — The proximity of this pa- 
rish to Glasgow^and the diversified nature of the pursuits in which 
its inhabitants are engaged, chiefly, however, agricultural and ma- 
nufacturing, render it extremely difficult to form a correct estimate 
of their general character. It must be admitted, however, that, in 
point of morality and attention to religious duty, the inhabitants 
of the parish may well bear comparison with any of the people in 
the surrounding country. Comparing the session record of the 
present day with that of the last century, there is a very marked 
improvement in the morals of t|ie parishioners. 
IV. — Industry. 

Agricultural Economy. — The number of acres in the parish is 
2950 imperial measure, almost the whole of which are under a re- 
gular rotation of tillage. There may be about sixty acres laid out 
as lawn in permanent pasture around the houses of some of the 
principal heritors, but these may at any time be, and occasionally 
are, cropped to advantage. There may also be about ninety acres 
covered with thriving wood ; but there is almost no land in the pa- 
rish that can be called uncultivated, although, not forty years ago, 
there was not one fiirm within its bounds which did not contain 
more or less of waste ground — which successful cultivation has now 
caused to disappear. About twenty of the acres of growing wood 



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CATHCART. 507 

are natural copse on the estate of Langside, and the rest consists 
of plantations, including ornamental belts of every description. 
Upwards of twenty acres of the above number occupy the farm of 
Merrilee, the property of Sir John Maxwell, and the only portion 
of the parish unfit, from its rocky nature, for profitable cultivation* 
The ground' was planted with firs by the proprietor about forty 
years ago, a part of which has recently been cleared, yielding a 
fair return upon the original outlay, and is again replanted. The 
average rental of the lands of the whole parish is L. 2, Os. lO^d per 
imperial acre, and the total rental amounts to L.6013, 14s. dd. 
There is a very great variety, however, in the value of the several 
farms, according to the quality of the soil and the relative advan- 
tages of the locality for manure and markets. Very great im- 
provements have taken place since the commencement of the pre- 
sent century, in the mode of cultivating the soil, resulting from 
the rapid progress of agricultural science. A regular rotation of 
cropping, completed in four years, is generally practised with much 
success. Oats, potatoes, wheat, and hay, follow each other suc- 
cessively, the potato crop being always well manured. The 
greater proportion of the lands which required it have, within 
these few years, been thoroughly furrow-drained, either with tiles 
or stones, and thus made capable of producing potatoes of good 
quality and fair crop in despite of untoward seasons. At the date 
of the last Statistical Account, there were scarcely thirty acres fit 
for the produce of this most valuable, root. There are now about 
300. Many acres also of rich alluvial soil have been reclaimed 
within the above period from a state of utter worthlessness by deep 
open sewers, brought to a lower level, and carrying off to the 
river the superfluous water which had formerly flooded them 
throughout the whole course of the seasons. Very little of the 
land is kept by the farmers in pasturage, and in the few instances 
where it is so, it is again broken up by a five instead of a four 
year's rotation. Upon the whole, this parish will bear a compa- 
rison to its honour with any part of Scotland, in local improve- 
meDt5 industrial management, and the diligent promotion of every 
scheme which science can suggest and practice can accomplish for 
the prosperity of agriculture. It is perhaps more the consequence 
than the cause of this happy state of matters, that a Farmer's So- 
ciety has recently been instituted, for the purpose of awarding 
prizes at an annual competition to those who approve themselves 
the most skilful in those practical operations, on which the success 
of husbandry so much depends. 

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508 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Manufactures, — There are upwards of 100 families in the 
parish whose subsistence depends on hand-loom weaving; but 
as there is no public establishment for the manufacture of cloth, 
the webs, partly for plain, partly for harness-work, are (iiVnished 
by the warehouses of Glasgow and Paisley. At Netherlee, on 
the Cart, there is a very extensive printBeld, cap'kble of giv- 
ing employment to 300 persons, including children, to which 
very large additions were built about two years ago ; but from the 
stagnation of trade, the work is at present discontinued, and the 
property is now in the market A little farther down the river, at 
Milholm, is a paper mill in full operation. The manufacture of 
paper was introduced into this parish about the year 1690, by Ni- 
cholas de Shan, a Frenchman, and one of those Protestant refu- 
gees, who, by the impolitic and unjust revocation of the edict of 
Nantes in 1685, were driven into foreign countries, and carried 
with them the arts which might have enriched their own. A part 
of the original building, enlarged from time to time, is supposed 
still to remain^ and from its origin, until now, with very few and 
short interruptions, the work has been continued. Lower down, 
and at the end of the old bridge, is a mill for the manufacture of 
snuff, which affords employment to several families. On the river 
at its lowest point in Cathcart, and just before it enters the parish 
of Eastwood, there is an extensive bleachfield at Newlands, but 
the workers, who are very numerous, are, with a few excep- 
tions, resident in the adjoining town of PoUokshaws. To the 
resources of the same stream, the inhabitants are indebted for an 
excellent corn mill, as they also are for another at its upper extre- 
mity on the estate of Dripps. Those mills are principally sup- 
ported by a considerable sum which the tenants are obliged to pay 
annually under name of multure. The erection of a cotton mill 
on the Cart, whose machinery might be propelled by its waters, 
has occasionally been contemplated; but the idea seems, of late, to 
be abandoned, very much to the gratification of the writer, who has 
cause to congratulate himself that none of the public works now 
existing has been the means of introducing that sort of promis- 
cuous and floating population which is so apt, from its irresponsible 
character, to demoralize a neighbourhood. 

v.— Parochial Economy. 
The distance of the most remote part of the parish from Glas- 
gow is not more than five miles and a-half, and the facility, there- 



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CATHCART. 509 

fore, enjoyed by the inhabitants of choosing their market in that 
great city, accounts for the fact that butchers'-meat has never been 
sold in the parish, and baking only attempted on a very small 
scale. An omnibus starts every morning from Clarkstone toll, 
the most distant point, for Glasgow, and returns in the evening. 

Ecclesiastical iS'to^^.— The old parish church, a miserable build- 
ing, erected in 1707, and capable of containing, with comfort, not 
more than 150 sitters, was taken down in 1831, and a new one 
built of very elegant structure at a cost to the heritors of L. 2500, 
and seated to accommodate with ease about 1000 persons, which 
is very nearly the l^al allowance of seat-room for the whole popu* 
lation. The sittings are allocated to the heritors according to 
their several valuations ; but no seat*rent is charged from those 
who occupy them. A new and most commodious manse was built 
in 1818^ and is in good repair, together with the offices, which 
were repaired and enlarged a few years ago. The garden ground 
around the manse amounts to about one acre and a-half, and the 
glebe, which is let at a rent of L. 16, 10s., consists of three acres 
and a rood. A very fair average of the annual value of the living 
is given in the report of the Parliamentary Commissioners, who 
state it to be L. 276, consisting partly of surrendered teind, and 
partly of oatmeal and barley, payable in money at the highest Bar 
price. There is no Dissenting meeting-house in the parish, but 
a considerable number of Dissenters, who have no difficulty in find- 
ing accommodation for public worship in the chapels of Pollok- 
shaws, Mearns, Rutherglen, and Glasgow* A majority of the 
inhabitants are connected with the Established Church. The 
average number of the congregation, which varies very consider- 
ably at different seasons of the year, may be about 500 ; and the 
number of communicants on the roll is about 100 less. About 
thirty young persons have, for some years past, been admitted 
annually to the communion-table for the first time. 

Education. — There is an admirably-conducted school near 
Clarkstone, but, from its situation, it is of more benefit to the 
populous village of Busby in Mearns than to this parish. There 
is also one in the new village of Cathcart, well taught and well 
attended ; and till of late, there was one in Crossmyloof, but, the 
teacher's merits having procured him promotion, it is now closed. 
These three schools were each on the masters' own adventure. 
It may be worth while to mention that some years ago, when the 
regular teacher in the last-mentioned village fell into a decline, 



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5J0 RENFREWSHIRE. 

and the place became vacant for upwards of two years, the more 
respectable of the inhabitants, who are mostly weavers, formed 
themselves into an educational society, to be managed by twelve 
directors, under the presidency of the minister. A certain number of 
the more intelligent of the villagers who were willing to undertake 
the task of teachers, were selected ; a room was hired for the pur- 
pose, and a school opened from eight to ten o'clock at night, in 
which the teachers, two by two, in monthly turn, gave gratuitous 
instruction to whatever children were committed to their charge. 
The duty of the directors was principally to visit the school, and 
to wait upon careless parents to urge upon them the propriety of 
securing^ their children the advantages which it offered. The 
plan was attended with the greatest success, and continued in ac- 
tive operation until rendered unnecessary by the arrival of a regular 
teacher. An excellent parish school and schoolmaster's house 
were erected in the year 1830, at an expense approaching L. 5.0(K 
It is thinly attended, and the parochial schoolmaster has stated to 
the writer that, in his opinion, the cause of this may be its proxi- 
mity to the river ! 'The salary is about L. 31 ; and the office, con- 
nected as it is with that of session-clerk, affords a very comfortable 
competency. 

SocieHeSf 4^. — There is in the parish a Ladies' Society for cloth- 
ing the children of the poor, and other purposes. By them a 
girl's school, formed very n^uch on the model of the schools of 
industry, has been instituted. A salary is given to the teacher — 
appointed by them, who is bound to receive and instruct gratui- 
tously a limited number of girls recommended by the society, 
while she is allowed to receive the fees of those who are voluntarily 
placed by their parents under her tuition. The same ladies pro- 
vided last year for the complete clothing of no less than fifty-two 
poor children, and are this year still further extending their gene- 
rosity, in the exercise of which, they are handsomely supported 
by the wealthier classes of the parishioners. Under the same 
friendly auspices, a Sunday-school has been instituted, over which 
the minister presides, and in the management of which he is ably 
assisted by twelve of his congregation. For the use both of the 
girl's school and of the Sunday-schojol, the old parish school-room 
has been kindly appropriated by the heritors ; and through the 
liberality of one of their number, it has beeti placed in such a state 
of repair as to be inferior to few school-rooms in Scotland, either 
in point of accommodation or comfort. The number of children 

3 



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CATHCAllTi 511 

attending on Sundays is about 120. There is a Cathcart club 
which dines once a year in Glasgow ; when, immediately after din- 
ner, a hat is passed round from hand to hand under the table to 
receive charitable contributions, in such a manner that no man can 
tell what sum is given by his neighbours. The party consists 
generally of about twenty, and the sum received averages about 
L. 25, which is distributed among respectable families, which, al- 
though poor, are not in the receipt of regular parochial relief. 
There are also two Friendly Societies in the parish, which, in the 
writer's estimation, are founded on sound principles, and at present 
in a flourishing condition. The writer has much reason to be 
thankful that in every season of manufacturing distress he can rely 
on the prompt liberality of many among his parishioners to provide 
relief for the destitute, by aflbrding them employment in works of 
public utility, and thus to preserve the honest workman above the 
abject spirit of pauperism, which money given without value re- 
ceived is too apt to engender. 

Poor, — The number, of regular paupers on the poor-roll 
is about 30, and the average allowance is little more than five 
shillings per month. To meet this expenditure, there are the 
collections made at the church-door, which amount to about 
L.45 per annum ; and a voluntary assessment imposed upon 
themselves by the heritors, in proportion to their valued rent, to 
make up the deficiency. There are many poor people in the pa- 
rish well entitled, by the indigence of their circumstances, to 
parochial aid, who, being animated by the independent spirit which 
was once a characteristic of the Scottish peasant, although now 
too rapidly disappearing, refuse tj receive parochial assistance by 
having their names placed upon the poor-roll. There is no 
savings' bank or public library in the. parish, although attempts 
have been repeatedly made to establish both with evanescent 
success. Perhaps the proximity of Cathcart to Glasgow accounts 
for the failure, and renders it less a matter of regret. We 
have neither inns nor fares, but great abundance of both within 
easy reach. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

Since the date of the last Statistical Account of this parish, the 
face of the country has undergone a very marked improvement. 
Few new mansion-houses have indeed been erected ; but there is 
from the soil more than a quadruple produce to minister to the 
wants of the people, and to supply the superabundant population of 
the neighbouring city. 

RENFREW. L 1 ^ i 

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PARISH OF MEARNS.* 

PRESBYTERY OF PAISLEY, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. DONALD MACKELLAR, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name, — The name of this parish first appears in authentic form 
in the Chartulary of Glasgow, and in Prynne, as far back as the 
year 1296, the eventful period when Edward L of England made 
bis celebrated attempt to wrest from the hands of Scotsmen their 
rights and privileges, and to annex Scotland's ancient crown and 
sceptre permanently to the throne of England. The power of 
Edward's arms was felt and acknowledged throughout the better 
portion of the Lowlands of Scotland, and many a wealthy eccle- 
siastic and proud noble, were constrained to bow the neck and to 
swear fealty to the common enemy. Among the many victims 
to the power of England, John Petit of the Meirnes is mentioned 
in the records of the times as one of the Barons of the day who 
swore fealty to Edward I. The spelling of the name of this 
parish, like all other ancient names, varies exceedingly, according 
to the prevailing fashion at the several periods when the various 
MSS. were written, or according to the tastes and opinions of 
the scribes who wrote them. ^ The oldest form is Meirnes, as 
above, but it is also frequently styled Memes, Meamis, Memesj 
and Morness. O'Brien in. his " Word- Book" derives the modern 
name Mearns from the British Maeronjis — a name exactly de- 
scriptive of this parish, which, in ancient times, and in some 
measure at the present day, as far as one of its peculiar features 
is concerned, is still a ^' district inhabited by herdsmen." From 
the time of Camden, down to Crawford, the Historiographer of 
Scotland for Queen Anne, and the late minister, Dr Macletchie, 
this parish has ever been distinguished as a district for pasturage ; 
and at the present day the produce of the dairy, including chiefly 
butter and butter-milk, obtains a ready and favourite market 
in the neighbouring city of Glasgow. A continuation of the 
same sort of pasturage runs into Stewarton and Dunlop ; which 

• Drawn up by the Rev. "William Patrick, Haioilton. 



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MEARNS. 513 

last place gives its name to the best sort of cheese manufactured 
in the west of Scotland. Perhaps, originally the name was not 
applied to any particular place, but was a general appellation 
applicable to an indefinite extent of pastoral country, which, in 
later times, took the names of the Kirk Towns, or more con- 
spicuous villages with which the several places composing it were 
respectively connected. That somewhat extensive district lying 
between the rivers Dee and North Esk, now better known by 
the name of Kincardineshire, was anciently, and is still occasionally 
known by the appellation of " the Mearns." This parish, with East- 
wood and Eaglesham, and part of Cathcart, constitute the south- 
eastern district of the county of Renfrew. 

Extent and Boundaries, — The parish of Mearns has, upon the 
whole, an excellent eastern exposure ; indeed the general rise of 
the parish is decidedly from east to west. This, from the nume- 
rous swells and irregularities of which its surface is generally com* 
posed, may not be observed everywhere; but if we take the sur- 
face on the great scale, we shall find that it dips eastward to La- 
narkshire, and rises to the west in the direction of the Atlantic 
Ocean. This sort of ascent is not in general favourable for cuU 
tivation in this part of Scotland, as it shows that the land is rising 
to its maximum height above the level banks of the Clyde on the 
one hand, and the dat and sandy shores of the ocean on the other. 
We shall presently see, however, that the richness of the pasture 
lands is dependent not so much ou climate and exposure, as upon 
soil and subsoil. The geological features of the district injure 
a warm, dry, and porous soil, which here carries off the surface 
moisture, and. in this almost constantly weeping and dripping cli- 
mate, also the superfluous rains. The greatest length of the pa- 
rish, from its eastern to its^ western extremity, is about seven miles 
and one-quarter ; and it is about three miles and a quarter in 
breadth. There are five pajishes in the county which are larger ; 
but none superior to it in the properties already described. The 
parish of Mearns is bounded on the west by Neilston ; on the north 
by Eastwood ; on the east by EaglesHam and Carmunnock, in the 
county of Lanark ; on the south by Fenwick ; and on the south- 
west by Stewarton, — the two last in the county of Ayr. 

Meteorology. — The meteorological features of this parish are the 
meteorological features of most other parishes in the west of Scot- 
land. It derives some advantages certainly from its relative posi- 
tion, its peculiar exposure, and rock formation ; but at the same 
time, has to contend with the inequalities of climate, and the cold 

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614 RENFREWSHIRE. 

raw humid atmosphere, which is too often suspended over the 
bleak and austere landscape lying within the sea-bound shores of a 
country situated io this far northern latitude. The gradual swells 
and inequalities of surface, including an endless succession of 
beights and hollows, are no doubt favourable for shelter, and we 
accordingly find that, although sonae of the principal dwellingsr in 
the parish are seen glittering in crested pride, and rearing their 
proud battlements on the summit of what is occasionally a sunny 
bill or eminence; yet by far the greater number court the lowly 
shade or sheltered valley, more anxious to shun the hurricane of 
the west, than to court the only occasional glimpses even of the 
summer's sun. A few statistical facts in the shape of a journal, 
kept by an aged man in the neighbourhood, now dead, will, how- 
ever, afford more information as to the general aspect of the wea- 
ther at different seasons of the'year, than could be elicited by a more 
general description, however well conceived or happily expressed. 
We shall take a few months at different seasons of the year, dur- 
ing the first twenty years of this century, and these are selected so 
as to show the average state of the weather. We begin with Ja- 
nuary 1800. 1. Keen frost, dark, like snow. 2. Great fall of snow, 
high tremendous wind with drift. 3. Thaw, great rain, earth ex- 
tremely wet above. 4. Thaw still. 6. Good fresh day. 6. Dark 
rdiny day. 7. Frost. 8. Ditto, dark, like snow. 9. Fresh mild 
day. 10. Frosty dark day. 11. Keen frost, cold, and like snow. 
12. Rain and sleet. 13. Frost and some thaw. 14. Fresh mild day. 
15. Snow and sleet. 16. Snowy morning, fresh day. 17. Dark 
day and frost. 18. Keen frost. 19. and 20. Ditto. 21. Keen 
frost, sunny. 22. Snowy dark day. 28. Thaw, tremendous rain, 
wind, snow, and sleet. 24. Good mild fresh day. 25, 26, and 
27. Fresh agreeable days. 28. Day wet. 29. Do. 30. Snow 
and sleet. 31. Frost. 

Owing to the great wetness of the previous harvest months, 
meal rose to 2s. and 2s. 6d. per peck; potatoes, Is. 4d. per peck; 
hay Is. 4d. per stone. 

For seed-time we select April 1804-— giving also the directions 
of the wind* 

1. Fine fresh sunny day and warm ; planted potatoes. W. *i. 
Dry forenoon, wet afternoon. S. 3. Wet dirty day. S. 4. Snow, 
rain, and hail, ground very wet. Variable wind. 5. Snow, sleet 
and rain, dirty weather. Wind variable. 6. Fresh dry day; oat- 
meal Is. 4d. per peck; no field-work done this week. S- 7. Good 



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MEARN8. 515 

fresh day. W. 8 and 9. Soft fresh days, S.W. 10, 11, and K. 
Seed-time again begun, fresh, but little drought W. 18. Show- 
ery morning, dry day; sowed onions. E, 14, Dry sunny day, 
troubled atmosphere like a storm. £. 15 and 16. Good dry days. 
E. 17. Fine growing fresh day. E. 18. Warm sunny day. W. 
19. Ditto ditto. W. 20. Warm mild showers. W. 21. Mild 
dark day. E. 22. Warm and sunny. E. 23. Warm sunny day, 
cold night E. 24. Cold blowy day like snow. E. 25. Very cold 
blowy winter-like day. E. 26. More mild, great drought, cold 
night E. 27. Very cold rainy day. E. 28, 29, 80. Severe frost, 
hail and snow showers. N. wind. 

The succeeding May was also a cold bad month, and also part 
of June ; but after some mild warm showers about the 20th, the 
oats were looking well, notwithstanding the cold. 

As a specimen of summer weather we may take July 1812-— 
giving also the direction of the winds. 

1. Very wet day. E. 2. Wet morning, dry day. E. 3. Dry 
and warm. W. 4, 5, and 6. Dry. W. 7, 8, 9. Exceeding warm. W. 
10. Frosty morning, warm day — also the 1 1th and 12th. W. From 
Idth to 17th, inclusive, warm and dry fine summer weather. W. 18. 
Very warm fine showers. W. From 19th to 22d, inclusive, fine 
growing weather. Variable winds. 28, 24, and 25. Ditto, ditto. 
W. 26 and 27. High winds and cold blue sky. N.W. 28 and 
29. Mild warm weather. W. 80 and 81. Ditto, ditto. W. 

The crops were far behind, but looked well. At the end of 
August, meal was 8s. 4d. per peck ; potatoes lOd. to Is. per stone. 
A great crop, but late. 

We select for a harvest month Sejptember 1818— -giving also 
the winds. 

1. Dark cloudy day, rainy afternoon. S. 2. Dry sunny good 
day. W. 8. Mild warm day; began to cut oats this day, forty 
days earlier than last year; a fine crop. S.W. 4. Dark soft day. 
S.W. 5. Dry cloudy day. W. 6. Do. do. some showers. W. 
7. Frosty morning, sunny and showers. W. 8. Good warm har- 
vest day. W. 9. Dark cloudy day, and showers. S.E. 10, 11, 
and 12. Agreeable harvest weather; harvest far advanced. W. 
18, Dry good day, wet at night. W. 14. Very wet day. S. 15. 
Stormy, rain and sunshine, hail, equinoctial blast ; full moon. W. 
16. Frosty, morning, sunny day. W. 17. Do. do. good harvest 
day. W. 18 Dark soft day; finished harvest. S. 19. Very wet 
forenoon, dry afternoon. S. 20. Wet disagreeable day. E. 21* 



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516 RENFREWSHIRE. 

Frosty shining morning, rainy dark day. £• 22. Tremendoos 
gusts of wind and rain ; dry afternoon ; carting in corn in good or* 
den Variable wind. 23. Fine dry sunny day ; much corn car- 
ried in; high wind and rain at night. S.E. 24. High wind, great 
drought; harvest home. S.E. 25. Good harvest day. S.E. 26. 
Wet morning, dry day. W. From 27 to 30, inclusive, good wea- 
ther. Wind variable. 

There is no well authenticated record of the average annual 
quantity of rain falling in the parish. Indeed, from the way in 
which water-guages are usually kept, they are but uncertain in- 
dices by which to ascertain the real or even comparative dryness 
or moisture of a climate. Their results depend to a great amount 
on situation, altitude, exposure, and a variety of other causes^ 
which frequently render them at best but lying chroniclers. There 
are no authentic parochial registers either of the thermometer or 
barometer. 

Hydrography. — This parish, in the strictest sense of the term, 
constitutes an *< inland district." * It is not within sight, by many 
miles, of the sea shore, and is watered by no great or stately river. 
The White Cart, here little more than a mountain-stream, al- 
though it swells to something like a river at Paisley, divides Meams 
from the parish of Carmunnock. The Earn is also a brattling 
brisk stream, from 10 to 15 feet broad, passing between this pa- 
rish and the parish of Eaglesham. There are, besides, several in- 
considerable streamlets, scarcely worth mentioning. There are 
four lochs of inconsiderable size. The chief is the Brother Locb» 
and also the Little Loch and Black Loch; besides which there 
is also the White Loch, a small sheet of water in the lands of 
Pollock. The fish in these small lakes are excellent, particularly 
the trout The Salmo sahelinus has been long a denizen of the 
lakes of Mearns. This is the Tarrag-heal of the Highlanders. 
It is a very excellent and savoury fish, distinguished by the first 
rays of the ventral and anal fins being white. It is of a black pur- 
plish-blue colour, passing into silvery yellow and scarlet on the 
scales and belly, with red spots. The flesh is red, and the fish is 
generally about a foot long. Upwards of a century ago, Anne 
Duchess of Hamilton caused a number of live trout of this sort 
to be taken out of the lakes at Mearns, and put into the Avon at 
Strathavon, where she then resided. The breed is still extant, 
and goes by the name of the Duchess Anne trout. The Salmo 
Jixrioj or common trout of our rivers, is a distinct species. The 

4 

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MEARNS. 517 

former occurs chiefly in the alpine lakes of Wales and Scotland* 
It spawns in January. 

Geology and Mineraloffy, — We have nearly exhausted this sub- 
ject in our Account of the parish of Eaglesham, the geological 
features of which are nearly identical with those of Mearns. That 
district in the south-east of Renfrewshire, from near the village of 
Neilston to the south-east extremity of Eaglesham, is entirely com- 
posed of igneous rocks. To the north of Mearns in the parish of 
Eastwood, the coal measures come in, an arm of which dips south- 
wards by Neilston*; and a mile and a half to the south-west at 
Head of Side, the Ayrshire coal-field almost meets that of Ren- 
frewshire, the intervening space being part of the trap rocks which 
run throughout the greater part of this county. The junction be- 
tween the trap and the coal formations occur immediately to the 
north of Mearns, but is nowhere seen owing to the thick coverings 
of alluvial and diluvial matter. The trap itself is mostly of that 
description, known in this country by the name of ^* rotten whin."' 
To afibrd some sort of idea of the effect which this mouldering 
and readily decomposing rock may have, in reference to the for- 
mation of the soil, it is only necessary to remark, that, in various 
proportions, and under considerable modifications, we find for the 
most part that it consists of a large proportion of silica with a lesser 
proportion of alumina and oxide of iron, and sometimes a sprink- 
ling of lime, or magnesia, or of oxide of manganese and soda. 
These various matters, under favourable auspices, crumbling down 
and suffering a continual diminution and subdivision of parts and 
particles under the chemical influences of air, light, and moisture, 
soon form a peculiar soil, and, in favourable circumstances, are of 
considerable depth and fertility. In Mearns the soil is chiefly of 
what the late minister termed a ^^ light quick kind," lying on rot- 
ten rock, except in some small tracts in the lower portions of the 
parish, which lie on a bottom of clay. It is worthy of remark, that 
the clay bottom is chiefly found in those quarters where the lower 
members of the coal measures approach the trap. The traps 
themselves are chiefly greenstone, trap-tuff, wacke, and claystone; 
and we saw the roads made in one part with a sort of porphyritic 
greenstone. The medium elevation of this quarter of the county^ 
of Renfrew may be estimated from 500 to 600 feet To the east 
the land is much higher. As the average quantity of rain through- 
out the county, for many years, was only 29.65, less is to be feared 
rem the quantity, than from its frequency. But this last tendency 



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51& RENFKEWSHIUE. 

of the air to deposit moisture from the clouds, is in some measure 
counteracted by the absorbing nature of the soil, and the porous- 
ness of the subsoiL ^ 

Zoology, — As to the quadrupeds or mammalia race of animals, 
none are to be found here except such as are common and univer- 
sally known in the west of Scotland. The same remark is appli- 
cable to the birds, with the exception of one or two of the hawk 
species mentioned in the account of Eaglesham. There is scarcely 
a doubt, however, that, by careful research, many discoveries or 
novelties might be found among the molluscous tribe of animals, 
particularly in the department Pulmonifera, including both the 
Terricola and Aquatica. The warm grassy slopes, moist mea- 
dows, ditches, and pools seem to swarm with these animals. Tlie 
Arion and Limaxof both sorts are well-conditioned and active here, 
considering the family to which they belong. The Helix erice^ 
forum in fine weather comforts itself on many a sunny bank; and 
on turning up a stone, or along with a handful of moss, we often 
meet with H. rufescens. To these there might be added the fit- 
tida^ rotundatOy costata^ and also nemoralis and hortensis* The 
beautiful Vitrina peliucida is also common, and also several species 
of Pupa* In the waters, lakes, and stagnant pools we noticed se- 
veral species of Limnea. The Physafontinalis may also frequently 
be seen slowly moving on the face of the waters, with the surface 
of its shell delicately folded up in its transparent robe. 

Botany. — In the higher and moister places of the parish we 
have Narthecium osnfragum^ some species of Polygonum, theErio- 
phorum, and various Carices, but very little of the blue or star- 
grass {Carex panicea), so common in the higher clay lands of 
Clydesdale. The common varieties and species of Scirpus, Jun- 
eus, and of the Sphagnums, &c occur abundantly. There are, 
however, no species of plants so rare as to attract the attention of 
the curious in these matters ; and to repeat the names of common 
species, is only to retail the most unfavourable and least attractive 
portion of the science of botany, — its harsh and unmusical nomen- 
clature. 

The soil here is well adapted for the Scots fir and spruce, and 
particularly for the larch. 

IL — Civil History. 
The old chronologers, Crawford and others, generally carry back 
the history of this parish, and of the principal persons who have 
figured in it, to the time of Alexander II. or about 1214. ChaU 

3 

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MEARNS. 510 

mers states somewhere in his learned work, that he has invariably 
found the local recorders of the past confounding the reign of 
Alexander IIL with that of Alexander 11. . Crawford, in his His* 
tory of Renfrewshire, has evidently fallen into the same mistake as 
Ure in his " History of Rutherglen and East Kilbride," so that 
for 1214 we may read 1240 ; about five years bisfore the dreadful 
interregnum in 1245. It is stated, that, before the last of the above 
dates, the barony of Mearns came by marriage with an heiress, 
named Macgeachin, to one of the Maxwells of Caerlaverock- This 
may be so, although there is no authentic records of the Maxwells 
of Caerlaverock, at a date so early in history. The family came 
into notice only about 1455, on the downfal of the Douglasses in 
the time of James II. Their chief sphere of action was not in 
the parish of Mearns, but in the border counties, particularly in 
Dumfries-shire. They acquired the estates of Eskdale, and seve- 
ral other great possessions in the south, where, about 1529, with 
James V., one of the same Maxwells, with Johnstone, was busily 
engaged, according to Ramsay in his Evergreen, in fitting 

*' cordis, baith greit and lang, 
Qubilk hangit Johnie Armstrang P* 

It is evident, however, that this great family had estates in this 
quarter, for we find the King (James VI.) commanding Lord Max- 
well to live in Clydesdale, and not to come within Dumfries- shire. 
But, probably finding his castle at Mearns a cold place, he return- 
ed home in summer 1601, it is believed, plotting the death of his 
rival Johnston. Maxwell was attainted in Parliament, S4th June 
1609, as may be seen from the printed acts now in Paisley Li- 
brary, when his estate here would no doubt change hands. The 
history of that family now resolves into that of the Maxwells of 
Pollock. What relationship Rolandus de Mearnes was of to the 
Maxwell family, or if any, is not known. He flourishes at an 
early period as a witness in that donation which Escbina de Mol- 
la, wife of Walter High Stewart of Scotland, founder of the mo- 
nastery of Paisley, gave to the monks of that abbey. After that 
period, it is chiefly to the chartulary of Paisley that we are to look 
for any brief glimpses which we obtain of the civil or ecclesiasti- 
cal condition of this parish. That document goes as far back as 
1165, telling us that William confirmed the monks of Paisley ii> 
the church of Mearnes, which was granted by Helias of Perthie,. 
with consent of his brother, Peter of Pollock. Shortly after 
1306, Herbert Maxwell granted to the same monks 8] acres and 
28 perches of land in Newton of Mearnes. One Alan was then 

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520 



RENFREWSHIRE. 



perpetual Vicar of Mearns. In 1227, the vicar bad 100 shillings 
yearly, or the altarage, and some lands near the church. The 
church lands here passed into lay hands after the Reformation. 
Chalmers says this barony only came into the hands of the Max- 
wells in the time of Robert I. ; and that in 1670 Sir Archibald 
Stewart of Blackball obtained a charter of the barony of Meams, 
with the burgh of barony of Newton of Meams, the church lands, 
the right of patronage, with the parsonage and vicarage tithes. 

The principal proprietors in the parish, with the respective va« 
luations of their properties in Scots money, is as follows : 



Sir R. C. Pollock, 


L. 1409 5 10 


Sir M. S. Stewart, 


493 5 6 


Mr Cunningham of Southfield, 


205 15 10 


Mr« Brown, Caplerig, 


182 6 8 


Mr Gilmour, Hasleden, 


. 212 10 8 


Mr Hamilton, Greenbank, 


165 5 8 


Mr Harvie, Hazleden, 


. 112 17 8 


Mr Pollock, Newfarm, 


187 5 8 


Messrs Pollock and Brown, Roadenhead, 


66 


Miss Henderson, Middleton, 


Idl 6 


Mr Pollock, Faside. 


25 


Mr Gilmour, Watten, 


137 1 8 


Mr Pollock, Blackhouse, 


97 7 8 


Mr Pollock, Titwood, 


- 87 5 


Mr Harvie, Burnhouse, 


40 14 8 


Mr Mather, Waterfoot, 


. 33 6 8 


Mr Herbertson, Shaw, 


78 10 8 


Mr Herbertson, Crook, 


- 53 12 6 


Mr Herbertson, Stewartfield, 


25 


Mr Graham, Robshill, 


75 8 


Mr Speirs, Fingleton, 


90 


Messrs Herbertson, Townbead, 


72 


Mr Carslaw, Humbie, 


57 8 4 


Mr Faulds, firoadlees, 


- 58 13 4 


Mr Watson, KirkbiU, . . 


51 12 


Mr Pollock, Walton, 


- 43 15 


Mr Allison, Maleuhaugfa, 


43 13 4 


Mr Muir, Cartsbridge, 


- 42 17 4 


Mr Carsewell, Dunearnocb, 


42 17 2 


CapUin Harvie, Maletshaugb, 


35 15 


Mr Craig, Broom, 


56 3 8 


Mr Allison, Coatbridge, 


85 6 8 


AMr Russell, Craigton, 


29 3 4 


Mr William Russell, Do. 


- 27 3 4 


Mr Lithgow, Broom, 


27 


Mr Gilmour, Hillhcad, 


- 26 13 4 


Mr Clark, KirkhiJl, 


25 4 


Mr Valance, Cairn, 


12 10 


Mr Hanrie, Do. 


12 10 


Mr Faulds, Hillhouse, 


25 


Mr Douglas, Maidenhill, 


20 


Mr Craig, Flook, 


18 15 


Mr Pollock, Kirkhill, 


15 


Mr Kippen, Bony house, 
Mr Stirling, Newton, 


12 


12 


Mr £verart. Busby, 


11 


Mr Harvie, Greenkw, 


8 




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MEARNS. 521 

There are in all abouf 47 heritors in the parish, yielding a va- 
luation of L. 4725) 6s. 6d. Scots money. The real valuation is 
about L. 5000. The heritors are mostly resident. The princi- 
pal properties are, Pollock, Southfield, Caplerig, -Greenbank, 
Fingleton, Netherhouse, &c. Many of the richer heritors have 
excellent modern mansion-houses. The principal proprietor is 
Sir R. C. Pollock, Bart. Upper Pollock is the chief messuage 
of that barony. The house stands on a rising-ground, with a good 
exposure, and commanding an extensive view of the country 
around. His family are said to be descended from Peter, the son 
of Falbert, who lived in the time of Malcolm IV., and is mentioned 
in ancient records as an early donator to the monastery of Pais- 
ley. In former times, a chapel stood at Upper Pollock, which 
disappeared after the Reformation. Southfield is a very pleasant 
residence, and is well sheltered with wood and plantations. This 
property was purchased by Mr Urie in 1680 from the Stewarts of 
filackhall, afterwards by Mr Gilchrist in 1750, and by Alexander 
Hutchison, Esq. of Jamaica in 1771. It is now the property of 
Mr Cunningham. The Kirk rivulet rises a little to the west of 
this. Caplerig was an ancient seat of the Knights Templars ; it 
now belongs to a family of the name of Brown. An ancient square 
tower is still pointed out, which passes under the name of the Old 
Castle of Meams. This was formerly the chief seat of the Max- 
wells. It has lately been roofed in, and is surmounted with a flag- 
staff. The roof is so contrived, that, being invisible from without, 
it does not in the least disfigure the building. On a late occasion, 
the ancient echoes of this antique warlike fortalice were awaked 
after a sleep of centuries to the voice of music, and the nimble 
cadences of the ^^ light fantastic toe." 

1 1 1. — Population. 

The first authentic account which we find of the population of 
this parish is that taken by Dr Webster about 17^, when it 
was only 886. In 1841, 3188, — giving an increase, in eighty- 
six years, of no less than 2202 souls. The population since the 
above'period may be stated thus : 



In 1755, 




886 


• 




1791, 




1480 






1801. 




1714 






1811, 




1941 






1821, 




2295 






18dl, 




2814 






1841, 




9088 






Number of families in 1831, 




. 




456 


chiefly engaged in 


agriculture, 




- 


149 


in 


trade, manufactures, 


or handicraft, 


234 








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522 RENFREWSHIRE. 

During the period from 1755 till the present date, the increase 
has been somewhat more than 25 per annum. In the thirty-six 
years that elapsed between 1755 and 1791, the total increase was 
544, or nearly at the rate of 16 per annum. In the ten years be- 
tween 1791 and 1801, the total increase was 274, or at the rate 
of 27 per annum. In the ten years between 1801 and 1811,. the 
population increased by 227 souls, or at the rate of 22 per annum. 
From 1811 to 1821, the increase was 354, which gives the in- 
crease at the rate ofSSper annum. Sincel821 the increaseupto this 
date has been 805, which is within a little of the total population in 
1755. The increase in this last period is at the rate of 40 per 
annum. The number of births in the parish for the last seven 
years is about 80, — of which 40 are recorded by the parish teacher. 
The deaths are about 62, and the marriages 26. . No regular re* 
gister except that of births is kept in the parish. The procla- 
mations are scarcely a proper test for the marriages that take place 
in the course of a year. The number of children to a family is 
about 4^. The parish contains an unusually large number of 
wealthy and respectable. individuals, and of families of independent 
fortune. These will be seen by referring to the list of proprietors 
with their properties, and the valuation of each attached. About 
90 might be named as having upwards of L. 50 per annum. As 
this is strictly a rural district, the people are characterized, to a 
certain extent, by simplicity of manners, and by an absence of 
' many of the vices that are more common and more fashionable in 
populous manufacturing districts. They are nearly surrounded 
on all hands with a manufacturing population, which is attended 
with the advantage of affording them a ready and sure market for 
all sorts of agricultural produce. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture, — The soil, as already hinted, is of a light dry qua- 
lity, quick and stimulating, and lies mostly on a porous, much 
fractured » and rapidly decomposing foundation of trap, gene- 
rally termed in the west of Scotland rotten whin. There 
are only a few exceptions, and these apply to some of the low- 
er tracts of laiid in the parish, which rest chiefly on a hard till 
or clay. Owing to the vicinity of the parish to the two great trad- 
ing marts of the district, Glasgow and Paisley, there is a ready 
market for all sorts of agricultural produce ; and the manufactur- 
ing districts again, in their turn, yield the chief material for agri- 
cultural purposes, in abundance of manure, of which the farmer is 
enabled to avail hiriiself from the comparatively small distances at 



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MBARNS. 623 

which It may be procured, and the excellence of the roads. Mr 
Wilson in his " View of the Agriculture of Renfrewshire," some* 
what artificially divides its soil and surface into high, middle, and 
low. If we adhere to his division, we must place the Mearns in 
the high district, which lies on gravel and rock, and contains in 
all about 101,578 English acres. Except when the soil is very 
alpine, there is everywhere a thick covering of excellent herbage 
mixed with Trifolium repens^ and other rich and valuable accom- 
paniments of good pasture. But the farmers here are also well 
skilled in the higher and more scientific branches of the agri- 
culturist's art, in levelling, straightening, and laying out the crook- 
ed ridges into more profitable shapes, and more sightly forms, and 
also in draining and manuring. Formerly the farmers in this dis- 
trict began their operations at or about a stated period, and that 
period was in general too late in the season. The late Mr War- 
ner of Kilbarchan had the merit of first pointing out the mistake, 
and now it is very generally remedied. The dairy cows are all of 
the Ayrshire breed, are finely formed, and of the best sort. But- 
ter and butter-milk are here manufactured in a style not surpassed 
in any other district in the west of Scotland. The Mearns but- 
ter is farmed in Glasgow and Paisley, and families are anxious to 
lay in their winter butter, the veritable produce of the celebrated 
dairies of the Mearns. In the farming operations, summer-fallow- 
ing is not much practised. Instead of this, the ground has long, 
been better prepared by planting it with potatoes or green crops. 
The potatoes thrive excellently here, yielding often 200 stones to 
an acre, or 260 or 280 for a succession of years. Turnips are not 
so much cultivated as they might be. The grain chiefly raised is 
oats and bear ; some little barley, and also wheat, beans and peas. 
The latter are now not so much sown as formerly, especially since 
the introduction of ryegrass and pulse, which some suppose to be 
unfavourable to the cultivation of pulse. The average rent of 
land is L. 1, 6s. per acre, although some properties rent as high 
as L. 2, 4s. and even much higher. 

Manvfactures. — There are pretty extensive cotton works at Bus- 
by, which were first erected there in 1780. There are also a 
printfield and bleachfield at Wellmeadow, and a printfield at Ne- 
ther Place. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
The principal village in the parish is Newtown, situated about 
half-a-mile north-west from the parish church. It is a burgh of 



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524 RENFREWSHIRE. 

barony, and has the right of holding a weekly market^ and two 
annual fairs. It contains about 500 or 600 inhabitants, and is 
formed chiefly of two rows of houses on the Glasgow and Ayrshire 
road, with a good inn. The centre of the {)arish is about eight 
miles both from Glasgow and Paisley. This district was long 
destitute of good roads. Even so late as 1770, lime, coals, grain, 
and other bulky articles were generally conveyed on horses' backs. 
It is only since 1792 that good roads began to be known here. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church contains about 600 
sittings, is in good repair, and is ceutrically enough situated. The 
glebe contains about 4 acres. A new manse is at present being 
built. The expense will be about L. 1300. About L.165d, 7s. 
was raised by assessment on L. 4725, 6s. 6d. Scots money — the 
additional sum going for repairs on the parish schooUhouse. There 
is what was formerly termed an Antiburgher-meeting house at New- 
ton. It was first built in 1743, but has lately been completely re- 
erected. It has a glebe of five acres. 

Education.— The parish school-room is one of the largest and 
airiest of any in the west of Scotland. Mr Jackson, the very able 
and excellent teacher, has long laboured with much success in his 
very important and useful sphere as parochial teacher. Accord- 
ing to the last official returns, the number of children attending 
the parish school was 103 — attending other schools, 150. The 
branches taught in the parish school are, Latin, geography, arith- 
metic, English grammar, reading and writing. The salary of the 
parochial teacher is L.34, 4s., school-fees L,63, with L.4 annual- 
ly from other sources. There is a school at Busby, and a small 
country school besides. There are few, if any, natives above fif- 
teen years of age who cannot read the Scriptures, and who have 
not been taught to write. 

Poor. — There is no parochial assessment. At one period An- 
drew Sim, heritor, left 1000 merks to the poor of the parish. At 
present they are chiefly supported by donations and collections at 
the church door. 

Alehouses. — There are a few of these in the parish, principally 
connected with the thoroughfares and the public works. 

Fuel. — This essential article is obtained in abundance from the 
adjacent coal districts, at a moderate rate. 

January 1842. 

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PARISH OF INNERKIP.* 

PHESBYTERT OP GREENOCK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. 

THE REV. THOMAS BROWN, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Namef Extent^ Sfc. — The name of the parish denotes its posi- 
tion at the mouth of the River Kip. It is bounded by the Clyde 
on the north and west. It it is about seven miles in length and 
six in breadth. About two centuries ago, it comprehended the 
parishes of Greenock. The surface of the country, in general, is 
no less pleasing to the eye, than the situation is conducive to health. 
From the shore to the south-east there is a gradual ascent, 
beautifully varied with plains, gentle declivities, and eminences 
clothed with furze and broom, intersected by small rivers or burns, 
which are sometimes lost in deep glens, shaded with wood, and 
sometimes water rich and fertile meadows. On one side, the pa- 
rish is surrounded with lofty mountains, covered with heath ; on 
the other, washed by the Frith of Clyde, constantly crowded with 
the foreign and coasting trade to and from Greenock : and the 
towering summits of the Isle of Arran terminate the view to the 
south-west 

Soil and Agriculture. — The soil upon the shore is light, sandy, 
and of quick vegetation ; farther in the country, it is a little wetter, 
and more inclined to a red gravel. The moor-grounds are covered 
with heath, and in some places afford moss of a considerable depth. 
More than one-half of the parish is moor, and a great part of that 
a common undivided; a considerable part natural meadow, and the 
remainder arable. From the appearance of the country, it may 
be supposed that more land was in tillage fifty years ago than at 
present. (Old Stat. Account.) 

Geology, — The geology of the parish is, in every respect, the 
same with that of the neighbouring parish of Greenock. These 
stratified rocks belong to the old red sandstone series, which 
are met and overtopped at a height of from 50 to 100 feet above 

* From notes furnLshcd by the Ilev. Donald M'Lccdi Minister of Gourock. 

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526 RENFREWSHIRE. 

the sea, by the secondary trap, of which all of the eminences in this 
district of Renfrewshire are coniposed. They are in many places, 
particularly in the neighbourhood of Wemyss Bay, intersected 
and upheaved by narrow dikes of the trap rock. In the immedi- 
ate neighbourhood of these dikes, the sandstone is hardened to a 
remarkable degree, and partially discoloured, incontrovertible evi- 
dences that the trap which composes them was originally injected 
in a fluid state. The rocks in this parish have been quarried to 
a very considerable extent The most abundant stratiBed rock 
is conglomerate, but there is a finer kind of sandstone in the upper 
part of the parish, which is well adapted for building. Many of 
the trap dikes supply metal for the roads of excellent quality. 

II. — Civil History. 

Land-owners. — Sir Michael Robert Shaw Stewart; Robert 
Wallace of Kelly, Esq.; and William M*Fie, Esq. of Langhouse; 
and in the Gourock district. Lieutenant- General Darroch, the 
valuation of whose property is L.600, — are the chief land-owners. 

Mansion-Chouses. — The mansion-houses are, 1. Ardgowan, the seat 
of Sir M. R. Shaw Stewart; 2. Kelly, the seat of Robert Wallace, 
Esq. ; 3. Langhouse, the seat of William Macfie, Esq. ; and 4. 
Gourock House, the residence of General Darroch; 5. Fancy Farm 
House, at present unoccupied ; 6. Ashburn, the residence of An- 
drew Ranken, Esq. ; 7. Gourock Castle, the seat of J. F. Zollar, 
Esq. ; 8. Leven House, belonging to Mrs M^Inroy ; and Leven, 
the seat of Mr Crooks. 

Jntiguities, — There is an old tower, the venerable rentinant of 
the ancient mansion-house of Ardgowan : also, a very old and vene- 
rable looking bridge lying across the Dunrod burn, a stream flow- 
ing down to Innerkip. These are both curious relics, and well 
worthy of preservation. 

III. — Population. 



Amount of population in IBOl, 


1367 


181], 


1632 


182J, 


2344 


1831, 


208S 


1B4I, 


3403 



The village of Gourock, including Ashton, contains a popula- 
tion of 1200. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agricatture. — In the Gourock district of the parish, the num- 
ber of acres cultivated or in tillage, and on the Gourock estate, is 
about 2000; uncultivated, about 1500; capable of cultivation* 



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INNRRKIP. *499 

about 1000; in undivided common, about 200; under wood, about 
30, 

In the same district, the average rent of land is about L.I per 
acre. The real rental of the quoad sacra parish of Gourock is 
L.2500. 

The land on all the estates in Innerkip has been considerably 
improved during the last forty years. Furrow-draining has been 
carried on with great spirit; and the late Sir Michael S. Stewart 
and Mr Wallace of Kelly have given liberal encouragement to that 
and other improvements on land. The Shaw's water aqueduct, of 
which a description is given in the Account of Greenock, passes 
through the parish, and a part of the reservoir is in it. But the 
principal improvement since the beginning of the century, has been 
the making of the new turnpike road from Greenock to Innerkip. • 

Mamifactares. — There is a rope^work in the parish belonging 
to the Gourock Rope Work Company. 180 tons of cordage are 
here manufactured yearly ; value of a ton, L.42. 23 spinners, 3 
apprentices, and 9 boys are employed at this work. » 

FUhinffs. — The produce of the Gshings of salmon, trout, ling, 
ood, haddocks, whitings, &c. in Gourock parish, may amount to 
about L.300 per annum. 

Naviffotion. — Two sloops and a few small herring wherries be- 
long to the village of Gourock. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

EcdesiatHcal State. — The amount of the stipend of the minister^ 
of Innerkip is L.278b The district of Gourock has been erected 
into a separate parish quoad sacra ; and the minister's stipend is 
Lb 160 per annum. He has neither manse nor glebe. 

There is a parish library connected with the church at Gourock, 
containing nearly 600 volumes. 

Education. — There are two schools in the parish ; salary of the 
parochial teacher, L.30, 15s.; amount of his fees, about L.26 per 
annum. In Gourock parish, there is a school endowed by George 
Rainy, Esq. with the handsome sum of L.500. 

Paor.-^In the Gourock quoad sacra parish, there are 12 regu- 
lar paupers, besides 20 who receive occasional aid of from L. 1, 16s. 
to L.4 par annum. The poor in this place have great advantages 
from the strangers who resort to it for sea-bathing quarters, who 
are very kind to them. The total amount distributed among the 
poor is about L.60 per annum ; of which about L.30 is from church . 
collections, and the like sum from alms and legacies. 

January 1842. 

RENFREW. *K k 

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PARISH OF ERSKINE. 

PRESBYTERY OF 6RBENOCK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AKD AYR. 

THE REV, ROBERT WALTER STEWART, A.M., MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural Histort. 

Name.'^TuTBi name Erskioe was in earlier times written Irskyn, 
and seems to claim a Celtic origin, being compounded of the 
words Eris'Skyne^ which signifies ^ana kntfe.** Tradition tells that 
the founder of the ancient family of Erskine of that Ilk, now Ers* 
kine of Mar, having slain in the battle of Murthill, Enrique, one 
of the Danish generals, and having presented the bleeding head 
upon his dagger to King Malcolm IL, with the exclamation *< Eris- 
skyne,'' was, on account of his valour, immediately sirnamed Ers- 
kine by that monarch. Whether the castle and the lands derived 
their name from the surname thus imposed upon their proprietor, 
or whether, as other antiquarians seem to suppose, the proprietor 
derived his surname from his estates, is a matter of little conse* 
quenoe for the present purpose, as there seems no doubt that the 
church and parish derived their name from the Castle of Erskine, 
which stood on the south margin of the river Clyde, on the same 
site which the old mansion-house of Erskine now occupies. 

Extent and Baundaries. — The parish stretches from east to 
west, inclining southward, in the form of an irregular oblong, the 
eastern being considerably broader than the western extremity* 
Its length, between the extreme points, is about 8}, and its ave- 
rage breadth fn>« 2 to S miles ; and it is believed to contain aboat 
20 square miles of sur&ce. 

^ It is bounded on the north, by the river Clyde ; on the west, 
by the parish of Kilmalcolm, into which, indeed, its western ex«* 
tremity juts so far as to reach within a mile of the parish church ; 
on the south, by the united parishes of Houstoun and KilaUan» 
and a narrow stripe of the pairsh of Kilbarchan ; and on the east» 
bjjr the parish of Inchinaan. 

Topographical Jppearances.^^The surface io the east end of 



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ER8KINE. *50l 

the parish, towards the Clyde, presents much the same appear- 
ance, from its numerous dthivial rising grounds, as the neighbour- 
ing parish of Inchiunan. Between the new mansion-house at £rs* 
kine, and the West Ferry, opposite Dumbarton rock, along the 
banks of the Clyde, there is a considerable quantity of low-lying 
alluvial land, which has eytdenily been gained, in former times, from 
the river, by successive depositions of loam and mud left by the 
stream, and by means of dikes and jetties, which have been con^ 
structed for deepening and rendering navigable the Clyde,->*-a si« 
roilar formation of alluvial land is now slowly going on. At the 
west end of the parish, however, there seems io have been little 
alluvial soil gained, the ground rises rapidly from the banks of 
he river until it joins that chain of hills which intersects the pa- 
rishes of Kilmalcolm and Lochwinnoch* 

The coup d'oeil presented to a passenger sailing down the 
Clyde, between Erskine and Old Kilpatriek, has been very well 
described by the Rev. Mr Barclay in his account of the latter 
parish, to which the reader is referred. There are in this 
parish two points on the eld post-road between Groenock and 
Glasgow, from which may be bad most enchanting views of the 
far-famed lake and mountain scenery of the west of Scotland* 
From Crossbill, above Bishoptoo House, there is a view westward, 
down the Frith of Clyde, as far ae the mouth of the Holy Loch, 
^ich is bounded by the chain of hills called from their peculiar 
shi^, ^ the Farrel of Cakea^** rising beyond Dunoon and Kilman, 
towards Loch Echt In the foreground lies Dumbarton Castle, 
and further distant, on either side of the river, the towns of Port 
Glasgow, Greenock, and Gourock, the village of Cardross, and 
the town of Helensburgh, the view in the direction of the latter 
being bounded by that high and rug^d chain of hills which rises 
abruptly from the shores of Loch Long and Loch Goil, and ends 
in Ben Ann, ot^ &u Cobbler^^ as it is most usuaUy called* The 
view from this spot northward is, however, the more interesting 
of the two. The beautiful and classic vale of Leven lies straight 
before the spectator, studded with the towns of Dumbarton, Alex- 
andria, (where SmoUet the historian was born), and Bonfaill, and 
with villas innumerable; at the upper end of it, the waters of 
Lochiomond, from which the Leven takes its rise, are visible on 
a clear day, and the King of the Scottish bills, .Benlomond, is - 
^Ustinctly seen surrounded by his humbler satellites.* 

* At the spoi firom which thia beautiful panorama is seen, stoed ibroierly the iiin. 



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602* RBNFBEWSHIUE. 

The view from another point further west, called Undercraig^ 
is still more eztensire, because it not only embraces the mountains 
Ben Lomond, Ben Ledi, and Ben More, on the north, and the 
hills above Holy Loch and Loch Long on the west, but also a 
splendid view of Loch Gare and the peninsula of Roseneatb, ^* the 
Holy Iskf^* as it was formerly called. On a summer evening, the 
sunset viewed from this point is most lovely and imposing ; Camp- 
saile Bay and the Gare Loch present the appearance of molten 
gold, until the sun sinks behind the horizon, when the long dark 
shadows of the neighbouring mountains become immediately visible 
on their placid waters. 

Climate and IHteases. — The climate, as in the neighbouring pa^ 
rishes, is moist, but on the whole salubrious, for though rain falls 
in considerable quantity, it is immediately absorbed by the gravel^ 
ly subsoil, and there are no marshes or stagnant pools in the pa- 
rish to contaminate the air. It must, however, be confessed that, 
from the quantity of rain that falls, and more especially from the 
clouds of vapour which rise constantly from the Clyde, the atmo- 
sphere is not so light and elastic as it is further inland, and rheu- 
matism is, consequently, of not unfrequent occurrence. There is 
no disease that can be called endemic. Typhus fever seldom makes 
its appearance, and when it does, from the immediate removal of 
the patient to the nearest hospital, it rarely spreads* The natu- 
ral small-pox has more than once appeared in the parish, but last 
year, on account of the crowded state of the houses,* it prevailed 
to a great extent among persons of all ages. When vaccination 
had previously taken place, it was uniformly mild, but to infant 
children, and unvaccinated persons, it proved very fatal. Con- 
sumption is a very common disease, arising from neglect of colds, 
brought on by exposure to the weather, in following agricultural 
pursuits. When Asiatic cholera visited our country some years ago, 
there were two cases in this parish, both of which proved fatal* « 

Sprinffs and Rivers. — There are abundance of strong and ex- 
cellent springs in this parish ; some of these in the western part- 
are entirely devoid of any mineral taint ; but the wells are gene- 
called the Half-way House, at which, about forty years ago, travellers who left 
Greenock in the moroing by coach were in the habh of dinrng, as they nerer reached 
Glasgow till late in the evening, twelve hours being the time allowed for twenty-four 
miles. Travellers now accomplish that distance by railway in less than one hour. 

* The workmen on the Glasgow, Paisley, and Greenock Railway> to tlte amount 
of 1500, were lodged in the parish, much to the detriment of deanlincss and good 
morals. 



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ERSKINE. ^-^03 

rally more or less chalybeate, and there is one particularly on the 
farm of Drumcross, the mineral qualities of which are very strong* 
^ The Clyde, opposite the mansion-house at Erskine, still retains 
its original appearance and beauty, whilst everywhere else it has 
been changed and narrowed by the walls, and embankments which 
the river trustees have made, under the advice of eminent engi- 
neers, for deepening the channel. What changes the Clyde Bill, 
now passing through Parliament, may make on the appearance of 
the river, and consequently on the amenity of Lord Blantyre's 
park and pleasure-grounds, it is impossible at present to say ; but 
it is a fact worthy a pldoe in such an account as the present, that 
the Bill has been rendered necessary by ^.complete change in the 
opinion of the engineers of the present day, with regard to the 
best manner of deepening the channel. For nearly a century past, 
but particularly for the last thirty years, the plan which the engi** 
neers recommended, and the trustees followed, was to narrow and 
deepen the channel, in the hope that the body of water at ebb- 
tide would effectually scour it, — ^jetties being, at the same time, 
run out from the shore, at convenient distances, to intercept the 
sand thus brought down ; and all who recollect the former navi- 
gation of the Clyde can bear ample testimony to the success of 
this plan, from the certainty and rapidity with which the passage 
up or down the river can now be made. The engineers of the pre- 
sent day, however, have given their opinion very decidedly on the 
advantage to be derived from widening the river, and cutting off 
as much as possible the angles, or turnings on the banks, as well 
as deepening the channel, under the idea, that the greater the 
body of water, conjoined with the fewer resistances it has to contend 
with, will make the ebb-tide scour much more effectual. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The geology of this parish very much 
resembles that of the neighbouring parishes of Inchinnan and Old 
Kilpatrick. The diluvium is in many places found extending to 
the depth of six feet, consisting chiefly of loose gravel, though 
sometimes containing a considerable quantity of clay. It is inter- 
spersed with immense boulders of granite, graywacke, &c, which 
seem to have had their original habitat to the north-west, in the 
Aigyleshire hills. The strata in the south-eastern part of the pa- 
rish generally seem to belong to those rocks of the secondary kind 
which are known as carboniferous, or the coal formation. Some 
&ne specimens of fossil plants and trees were, found in them a few 



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504* henfrewshire. 

years ago on Lord Blantyre's property, while quarrying the ma^* 
riel for building the new mansion-house at Erskine. Towards the 
west end of the parish, these strata are superimposed by bills wholly 
composed of trap rock, of a porphyritic and araygdaloidal charac- 
ter, containing crystals of felspar, and amygdaloidal portions of 
calcareous spar, green . earth, &c While the workmen employed 
on the Glasgow and Greenock Railway were engaged in cutting 
Ihrotigh the West Ferry Hill, opposite Dumbarton Castle^ they 
opened up some splendid basaltic columns, very regular in shape, 
and of immense size, which have since gratified the curiosity of 
many visitors* Many of the minerals of the zeolitic &mily have 
been found in the trap rocks on this side the Clyde, as well as in 
the Kilpatrick hills, which have long been £imed for them. The 
species PrehnUtj ThomiomU, Meiotype^ and Cubeeiie^ have all been 
found, — the first mentioned, in great abundance and remarkable 
beauty. Some of the specimens of mesotype, 4Uo, were exceed- 
ingly rich and beautiful, but their texture was so friable and deli- 
cate that few of the finest could be preserved. There have alsa 
been found some fine specimens of amethystine quarts, — a thin^ 
but pure vein of dendritic native copper,'— some nodules of fortifi- 
cation agate of inferior value, and great quantities of common 
calc-spar. 

But the most interesting feature, under this head, is a new mi- 
neral, which has been discovered only a few months since by Lord 
Greenock, in the Bishoptoun ridge of porphyritic trap, and which, 
in honour of him, has been called GreenockUe. It has been as- 
certained, by chemical examination,, to be a protosulphuret of 
cadmium, and is therefore a species of a new genus, which stands 
next in order to the zinc blendes. The specimens which have 
hitherto been discovered are so small, that it b very diflScnIt fo 
ascertain its characters so correctly as one could desire. In the 
fifty- sixth number of the Edinburgh New Philosophical JQunuJ, 
for April 1840, Professor Jameson describes the Greenockite as 
prismatic in form ; but the following extract from a letter received 
from Lord Greenock, shows, that further experiments and exami- 
^ nation have led to the conclusion that its form is rhnniahedraL 
^* The only addition it may be neoesssary for me to uwke to Pro- 
fessor Jameson^s description is, to state, that Professor Forbes has 
since satisfactorily ascertained by his experiments, that the sul- 
phuret of cadmium is a crystal with one axis, and therefore its 
primitive form is rhombohedral and not prismatic, as some persons 



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ERSKINE. *50b 

had previously been led to suppose.^ Its colour is between honey 
and orange yellow, rarely inclining towards brown, and the colour 
of the streak reddish orange. Its lustre is shining resinous, some- 
what inclining to adamantine. It varies from semitransparent to 
semitranslucenL Its hardness is about 3.5 ; its specific gravity 
4.842,-*-and, so far as is Hnown, it is the only separate ore of 
cadmium hitherto discovered. 

SoiL — The soil in this parish may be classified under the four 
following heads : 

1. A light friable damp soil, inciunbent on till, or hard stoney 
clay. 

2. A light sharp dry soil, incumbent on whitestone rock or trap. 
a. A wet heavy soil, incumbent on clay. 

4. A peaty or vegetable soil. 

Of these the two former are by faf the most prevalent, and may 
occupy about lAfeths of the whole surface in about equal portions ; 
the third class may occupy about a i^h part ; and the fourth 
class rhuih part of the surface of the parish. 

Zoology. — The fox, the hare, and the mole are the three great- 
est enemies the farmer has to contend with here, they are so 
abundant ; and the rabbits have been increasing in number rapidly 
of late years. Pheasants are preserved by several of the landed 
proprietors, and are very plentiful The roe*deer, from the Kil- 
patrick hills, have been known to swim across the Clyde to the 
park at Erskine; but they will not settle there^ preferring the high 
grounds further inland. The grouse and woodcock are found oc^ 
casionally in the parish ; but the partridge, snipe, wild-duck, wid- 
geon, water-hen, and plover are tolerably abundant In the woods 
at Erskine, which overhang the Clyde, opposite the old BomaR 
fortress of Dunglass, there is a large heronry, which has existed 
there for a great length of time, and which is the more interesting, 
as it is alleged, there are only one or two more to be found in 
Scotland. It is a fine sight to observe these noble birds fishing 
in the river at ebb-tide, and their success may be estimated from 
the fact, that the walks under their nests are often strewed with 
flounders and other fish, which they have not been able to use. 
There are also two large rookeries in the parish. Tlie owl and 
the starling are found haunting about old mansion-houses and 
ruins, and the common varieties of singing-birds, from the black- 
bird to the wren, frequent the gardens in most destructive abund* 
auce. 



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506* RENPREWSHIRiS. 

Botany.— There are no plants which are indigenous, or if there 
ever were, they have disappeared as cultiyation extended itself 
over the parish. The following herbs are ccymmonly niet witli : 
Myrrhis odorata^ GnaphaKum dioicum^ Menyanihe$ trifoKaiay Art^ 
naria peploides^ Statice armeria, SUene maritinuu 

In the gardens at Erskine, vines, mulberry and fig trees may be 
seen growing on the open wall, and the fruit of the former, both 
as regards quality and size, is far superior to that which grows in 
the hot-houses. When this garden was made, about twelve years 
ago, the gardener, adopting Sir James Stuart of Allanton's phiD 
for transplanting full-grown trees, removed with the most perfect 
success all the most valuable fruit-trees from the old garden, and 
one of these, a Mayduke cherry, is not only the pride of the gar- 
dener, but likewise the admiration of every visitor. The first ripe 
fruit is gathered from it about the second week of April, and it 
yields with annual regularity large supplies till the end of July^ 
producing in the market an income from L. 20 to L. 25 yearly. 
In the pleasure-grounds, about the new house at Erskioe, there are 
found growing in the richest profusion, not only the rhododendroii, 
and other common evergreens, but also many valuable exotics^ 
which need no protection even in the depth of winter. Among 
these is a tree of the Maynolia tripeialay which has been mention* 
ed by Loudon in his Arbortttan Briiannicum as the lai^st ape* 
cimen he had seen in Scotland,— ^the Calmia laii/iliaj the (AiJL 
mia glaueoy and the Calmia cmgustifbliaj the Pamjkra ecandea 
or pasion-flower, the Acaeia ajffinuj the Gum eiihtSj the arbutus^ 
and the tulip. 

There are about 500 acres of land covered with woods and plaB«* 
tations, which consist chiefly of oak, elm, beech, ash, larch, Scotch, 
spruce and silver firs, and horse-chestnuts, though there are also 
in the woods near Erskine some fine old walnut and sweet-chest- 
nut trees, the latter producing in dry and favourable seasons fruit 
which may vie in quality, if not in sixe, with the famed chestnuts 
of Spain. In the immediate neighbourhood of Daigavel House, 
there stands a yew tree, which, from its size and circumference, 
seems to have been planted by some ancient representative of the 
ikmily of Maxwell, and which is confessedly one of the greatest 
ornaments and antiquities of the parish. 

II. — Civil History. 
HiUorical Notices. — This parish does not appear to have been 
at any time tho scene of actions or events sufficiently memorable 



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ERSKINE. •507 

to call for a sefxirate history, if only we except the proceedings of 
the witches in the end of the seventeenth century, at Bargarran 
Hoiise, which have been published along with a narrative of their 
trial in a small duodecimo volume, entitled ^^ The Witches of 
Renfrewshire." As the event refered to forms one of the only 
interesting antiquities connected with the parish, the leading par- 
ticulars may be shortly mentioned, although they have been al- 
luded to in the former Statistical Account. John Shaw of Bar- 
garran had a daughter called Christian Shaw, who appears, from 
her earliest youth, to have been a person of a veiy delicate con- 
stitution, which naturally led to a state of irksome weakness and 
ill health, and as these did not readily give way to the common re- 
medies, it was concluded in these times, when the mind was still 
considerably under the influence of superstition, that she was be- 
witched. The suspicion of bewitching her unhappily fell upon 
three men and four women who lived in the neighbourhood, one 
of whom, Margaret Lang, or ^' pinched Maggie,"* as she was 
called, lived at a hamlet called Cartimp*en, the site of which is 
still marked out by three trees growing in a field next to the pa- 
rish school-house, on the north side of the Greenock road. These 
unhappy creatures, (who seem by their own confession to have 
borne no good character,) were brought to trial at Paisley in the 
year 1697, and after a solemn inquest, they were found guilty of 
the crime of witchcraft, and sentenced to be burnt alive, which 
sentence was carried into effect at the Gallow Green of Paisley on 
Thursday the 10th. June 1697, in the following manner : They 
were first hanged for a few minutes, and then cut down and put 
into a fire prepared for them, into which a barrel of tar was put, in 
order to consume them more rapidly. 

Miss Shawns case excited very general attention, and produced a . 
deep sensation, more particularly in the vicinity of the place where 
she lived. Several ministers were sent for in succession to converse 
and pray with her ; and the most influential persons in the county 
were either directed by government, or were invited to pay atten- 
tion to the case. '* A particular account, or journal," says Dr 

* From a pinch said to have been administered by the devil to each of them, as 
they gave themselves up to his service, called in the course of the''trial his *•* invisible 
Doark." Her arm chair with initials is now in possession of the governor of the Glas- 
gow jail, and stands in the entrance to the court-house. 

The thread-mill and pirns used by Christian Shaw were preserved at Bargarran for 
upwards of a century,' and have only fkllen into complete decay within the last six 
years, and some bedstesds marked with the initials J. &» 1640| the last memorials 
of that fiuaUy, were set up to the hammer last spring. 



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508* RENFREWSHIRE. 

Young, *^ of the eztraordiDary circomstanoes of tbis case, was 
drawn up at the time it happened, every paragraph of which b 
affirmed to have been originally subscribed by witnesses, aidoiig 
whom we find the names of almost all the noblemen and gentle- 
men, and many of the ministers of the neighbourhood/' 

Miss Shaw is also celebrated as being the fir^t person that in* 
troduced the manufacture of fine linen thread into this country. 
*^ Having acquired a remarkable dexterity in spinning fine yarn, 
she conceived the idea of manufacturing it into thread. Her first 
attempts in this way were necessarily on a small scale. She exe- 
cuted almost every part of the process with her own hands, and 
bleached her materials on a large skte in one of the windows 
of the house. She succeeded so well, however, in these essays, as 
to have sufficient encouragement to go on, and to take the assist- 
ance of her younger sisters and neighbours. The then Lady Blan- 
tyre carried a parcel of her thread to Bath, and disposed of it advan- 
tageously to some manuCacturers of lace, and this was probably 
the first thread made in Scotland that had crossed the Tweed. 
About this time, a person who was connected with the family, 
happening to be in Holland, found means to learn the secrets of 
the thread manufacture, which was carried on to a great extent in 
that country, particularly the art of sorting and numbering the 
threads of different sizes, and packing them up for sale, and the 
construction and management of the twisting and twining ma- 
chines. This knowledge he communicated, on his return, to his 
friends in Bai^arran, and by means of it they were enabled to 
conduct their manufacture with more regularity and to a greater 
extent. The young women in the neighbourhood were taught 
to spin fine yam, twining-mills were erected, correspondences were 
. established, and a profitable business was carried on. Bargarran 
thread became extenavely known, and, being ascertained by a 
stamp, bore a good price. From the instructions of the family of 
Bai^rran,afew &milies in the same neighbourhood engaged in the 
business, and continued in it for a number of years. It was not 
to be expected, however, that a manufacture of that kind could be 
confined to so small a district, or would be allowed to remain in 
so few hands for a great length of time. The secrets of the busi- 
ness were gradually divulged by apprentices and assistants. A Mr 
Pollock in Paisley availed himself of these communications, and 
laid the foundation of the well established and extensive manii- 

£Bu:ture .of thread, which has ever since been carried on in that 

a 



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ERSKINE. *509 

iQwn."* Miss Shaw was afterwards marridd to Mr Millert the 
minister of Kiliiiaurs» about the year 17 18, but died at Bargarran, 
and was interred in the church*yard here, though it is to be re* 
gretted that no monument has been erected to indicate the precise 
locality* 

Mr Maxwell) younger of Dargavel, has kindly furnished^ from 
documents in possession of the family, the particulars of the last 
pass of arms which took place in the parish, arising from a quar- 
rel between the lairds of Dargavel and Orbistoun. Dargavel, ac- 
cording to immemorial usage, claimed right to door, seat, and bu« 
rial-place withm the old church of Erskine ; to this, Hamilton of 
Orbisto'un, then laird of Erskine, objected. In 1692, the matter 
seems to have been referred to Sir John Maxwell of Pollock, who 
decided it in favour of Dargavel, and he accordingly employed 
workmen to strike out a door. Orbistoun then resorted to force, 
in consequence of which he was served with a criminal complaint 
by Sir William Lockhart, Solicitor-General, which, after stating 
the crime of invading a man's property in a military manner with 
armed men, drums, and trumpets, thus proceeds, '^ Nevertheless, 
it «is of verity that Dargavel, oaving a good and unquestionable 
right to ane door, and seatt, and a buriall-place in the east end of 
the kirk of Arskine, and whereof they and their predecessors had 
been in peacable possession past all memory of man, and since the 
first reform from Popery, by building, repairing, and sitting in the 
seatts, and by hurraing the dead of their fiunily in that place of 
the kirk, yet true it is that William Hamiltoune of Orbistoun ; 
George Maxwell, baillie of Kilpatrick ; Mr Adam Wilsone^ clerk ; 
Robert Lang, miller in Duntocher; Shaw of Bargarron; Walk- 
ingshaw of that Ilk, (and a long list of other names,) shaking off all 
fear of God, respect to us, our authority and lawes, have presum- 
ed to comitt, and are guilty of the foresaid crymes, in so far as on 
the fi5th day of Apryle last» or ane or oyer of the dayes of the said 
month, they did in a most treasonable manner, convocate them- 
selves and several oyer their accomplices, to the number of ane 
hundred persons, all armed with guns, pistoUs, swords, baganets, 
and oyer weapons, and having appointed George Maxwell, Or- 
bistoun's oun baillie depute, to be their commander, and march 
upon their head, as their captain, they did come, marching in mi- 
litary manner, with drams beating and trumpets sounding, (and 
which can admit of no oyer codstraction than a downright defiance 
of our authority aud lawes,) to the parish kirk of Erskiu^e, and in a 

* Former Statistical Aocouat, article *' Erskine.*^ 



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^^10 RENFREWSHIRE. 

most iosolent and violent manner, did, at their own hand, and with- 
out any order of law, remove and take away Dargavell's seat and 
dask in the church, whereof he and his predecessors had been in 
immemorial possession, as said is, and did sacraligiously remove 
and carry away stones that were lying upon the graves of his pre- 
decessors, and did strike and wound severall of his servants.*' 
The matter was ultimately settled in Dargavel's favour* 

Parochicd Regiatersn — The parish registers extend no farther 
back than the year 1703, and they are tolerably well kept, but 
those prior to this period are supposed to have been lost through 
decay, which is the more to be regretted, as many curious ex- 
tmcts might no doubt have been made from them, tending to 
throw light on the character of the witches and other suspected 
persons* 

Lamd^rnxmen with their respective valuations. — 

The Lord Blantyre, - - L.2897 18 4 

Lieutenant- General Darroch of Drums, 821 13 4 

W. C. C. Graham of Gartmore, - 833 6 8 

Mrs Aytoun of Inchdamie, - - 248 6 8 

William Maxwell of Dargarel, - 286 13 4 

The Lord Douglas, . - - 183 6 8 

Matthew Rodger of Wester Rossland, 94 

Messrs Orr, Alison, and Wood, . 46 4 

Captain King of Millbank, - . 30 16 

John Holms, of Little Crosshill, . 14 



L.4451 
Family Descent-^-^The paternal ancestor of the family of Blan- 
tyre was Sir Thomas Stuart of Minto, in Roxburghshire, one of 
the younger sons of Sir William Stuart of Dalswinton and Garlics', 
'(ancestor of the Earl of Galloway), in the reign of King James 
III. Lord Blantyre is representative of the Stuarts of Minto, 
which family failed in the direct line in the person of Sir John 
Stuart of Minto, who died in the expedition to Darien, about the 
year 1669. 

His Lordship derives his title from the priory of Blantyre, in 
Lanarkshire, which was about the year 1580, bestowed *^ in com- 
mendam," by King James VI., upon Walter Stuart, son of Sir 
John Stuart of Minto, by Margaret, his wife, daughter of James 
Stuart of Cardonald, and was afterwards erected into a temporal 
barony. 

This Walter Stuart was, in 15B2, appointed one of the Privy- 
Council to King James VL, and keeper of the privy-seal, and 
subsequently an extraordinary Lord of Session, and one of the 
eight Commissioners of the Treasury and -Exchequer, called from 



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£USKINE« *51I 

their number Octavians. He was afterwards promoted to the of- 
fice of Lord High Treasurer, and was one of the commissioners 
for a treaty of union with England in 1604, (which did not take 
effect), and in 1606 was created a Peer of Parliament by the title 
of Lord Blantyre. He was grandfather of Frances Teresa Stuart, 
wife of Charles, Duke of Richmond and Lennox, (the last male 
descendant of the ancient Dukes of that title), and also of Sophia, 
Stuart, who, by her husband, the Honourable Henry Bulkeley, 
(fourth son of Thomas Viscount Bulkeley), was mother of Anne, 
second wife of James, Duke of Berwick, from whom, by this lady, 
is descended the Ducal house of Fitzjames in France. The Du* 
chess of Richmond and Lenno;t survived her husband, and, dying 
in 1702, bequeathed her fortune to Walter, eldest son of Alexanr 
der fifth Lord Blantyre, under an injunction that the lands to be 
bought with it should be called " Lennoxlove," which was accord- 
ingly carried into effect with respect to the lands and castle of 
Lethington (or Leddington), in the county of Haddington, which 
formerly belonged to the Lauderdale family* 

The late Robert Walter, Lord Blantyre, was accidentally shot 
during the Revolution at Brussels, in September 1830. He in^as 
Major-General in the British army, and served in Egypt, and in 
the expeditions to Holland and Copenhagen, and commanded the 
second battalion of the 42d Regiment for several years, during the 
campaigns in Portugal and Spain, under the Duke of Wellington, 
He was Lord Lieutenant of Renfrewshire, and was so highly es- 
teemed by the gentlemen of that county, that, shortly after his 
death, they erected, on a conspicuous situation on his estate of 
Erskine, an elegant column in the form of an obelisk, as a tribute 
of respect to his memory. 

His son, Charles, the present Lord Blantyre, has lately come 
of age ; and, after having served for a few years in the Grenadier 
Guards, has retired from the army, and is residing upon his 
estate. 

Lieutenant- General Darroch of Drums is representative of the 
family of Darrochs of Gourock, whose early patronymic was M41i- 
riach. When the estate of Drums was offered for sale on the 
death of the late Thomas King, Esq. of Millbank and Drums, it 
was bought for the father of the present proprietor, and immedi- 
ately entailed, as was also the estate of Barscube, formerly belong- 
ing to Mrs Aytoun of Inchdarnie. The mansion-house at Drums. 



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512* RENFRBW8HIRR. 

is in good repair, and is occupied by Captain Darroch, his eldest 
SOD, and next heir to the estates of Gourock and Drums. 

Mr Cuninghame Graham of Gartmore is now proprietor of 
the estates of the ancient Earls of Glencairo, (originally CSuning^ 
faames of Kilmaurs), being their lineal descendant and represeo«> 
tative. Mr Bontioe of Ardocb, his eldest son, occasionally resides 
at Finlavstone. 

The present mansion-house is of modern date, but is built on 
the site of the ancient castle of Finlaystone, where, under the par 
tronage of Alexander, Earl of Glencairn, the &mous John Knox 
administered, for the first time, the sacrament of the .Lord's Sup- 
per after the Reformation* The cups which were used on that 
occasion were carefully kept by the family, and were lent on sa- 
cramental occasions for the celebration of the Lord's Supper in 
the parish church of Kilmalcolm. Whether these valuable relics 
are still extant, and if so, in whose possession they now are, is not 
well-known ; report, however, says, that the last Lady Glencairn 
on leaving Scotland took them with her to England. 

Mrs Aytoun of Inchdarnie, only daughter of Dr James Jeffray, 
Professor of Anatomy in the University of Glasgow, and Mary 
Brisbane, his first wife, is the representative of the family of Pa- 
tersons of Craigton, having succeeded to the property in 1817, on 
the death of her aunt. Miss Anne Paterson, at the advanced age 
of ninety-seven. . 

Mr Maxwell of Dargavel is the representative of two very ancient 
families in Renfrewshire, the Maxwells of Dai^vel, and the Halls 
of Fulbar. The family of Hall obtained possession of Fulbar by 
charter, from James, High Steward of Scotland, the grandfather 
of King Robert IL, which was confirmed by a corroborative char- 
ter from Robert IL in 1370; and one of its descendants followed 
King James IV. to the ill-fated battle of Flodden, and fell there. 
The family of Maxwell was a cadet, but now represents the house 
of Newark. The eldest son of Patrick Maxwell of Newark, by 
his second wife, obtained a charter of the lands of Dargavel, along 
with those of Rashilee and Haltonridge, in the neighbouring pa- 
rishes of Inchinnan and Kilmalcolm, from his father in 1516. 
One of his descendants was slain, in the desperate conflict 
which took place at Lockerby, between the rival clans of Max- 
well and Johnstone. John Maxwell, the proprietor of Dargavel, 
at the beginning of Inst century, entailed that estate, but, as both 
he and his brother, William Maxwell of Freeland, died without 



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ERSKINB, *5V6 

issue, the next heir of entail, John Hall, second son of Robert 
Hall of Fulbar, and Margaret Maxwell, his wife, the sister of the 
entailer, succeeded under the title of Maxwell of Dargayel, and 
eventually he became, by the death of his elder brother, the pro* 
prietor and male representative of the house of Fulbar. The pre* 
sent proprietor married the eldest daughter of John Campbell, 
]Bsq. of Fossil, Dumbartonshire, by whom he has a numerous fa- 
mily. 

The present house of Dargavel was built in the year 1584, as 
appears from a stone in the front wall bearing that date, with the 
name and arms of the family. It is an excellent specimen of the 
style of French architectnre, which was introduced into Scotland 
in the reign of Queen Mary, by which the old square keep was 
supplanted ; and having undergone little alteration, it affords a 
good idea of the dwellings of the Scottish gentry towards the end 
of the sixteenth century. The lower storey is strongly vaulted, and 
the flanking towers are loop-holed for musketry, so as to command 
a range both of the sides and gables. 

Lord Douglas is the descendant and representative of the house 
of Douglas, so well known and highly famed in Scottish history. 
His Lordship has no mansion-house on his property in this parish. 

Mr Rodger of Wester Rossland is the representative of a family 
of that name, which obtained a charter or title to the property of 
Wester Ro9sland, or Fergushill's Rossland, so far back as the 
year 1599, and which also, about a hundred years since, increased 
it considerably by the purchase of the lands of Hay Hill, Long 
Meadows, and Gladstone, formerly belonging to the Brisbanes of 
Bishoptoun. On this property there was discovered accidentally, 
a few years ago, a shilling of the reign of Philip and Mary, coined 
in 1553^ but no other relics have since been discovered which 
could in any way account for its being there. 

Captain King of Millbank is the son of the late Thomas King, 
Esq. of Millbank and Drums, at whose decease the property of 
Drum^ being unentailed, was sold, leaving only the entailed es- 
state of Millbank in possession of the family. Ci^tain King is not 
a resident heritor, being at present with his regiment in England. 

The family of Sempill claims also a passing notice under this 
head as having been at no very remote period possessed of con- 
siderable property in this parish, viz. a large portion of the estate 
of Northbarr, and the entire estate of Bishoptoun, the latter of 
which. Miss Dunlopi heiress of that property, and mother of Hugh, 



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514"^ RENFREWSHIRE. 

thirteenth Ijord Sempill, brought into that family. That noble- 
man sold both these properties, and left the family of which he 
was the representative, once the most powerful in Renfrewshire, 
without a rood of land in it. This Hugh Lord Sempill is repre- 
sented, in the account of Lochwinnoch, as the last of the family* 
This statement, however, is incorrect, as Hugh Lord Sempill, 
who sold Castle Sempill, was succeeded by his eldest and only 
surviving son, Selkirk, Bfteentb Lord Sempill, who died on the 
4th of May 1835, when the title devolved upon his eldest sister, 
Maria Janet, present Baroness Sempill, who married Edwanl 
Candler, Esq. of Morton Pinkney, in Northamptonshire, Deputy- 
Lieutenant of that county, son of Henry Candler, Esq., who was 
paternally descended from the Irish family of Candler of Callan 
Castle, in the county of Kilkenny, and maternally from the emi« 
nent Yorkshire family of Vavasour, now extinct in the male line. 

Eminent Men. — The two last incumbents of Erskine have both 
acquired considerable celebrity, though in different ways. Dr Wal- 
ter Young was famed as the most splendid private musician of his 
day ; he performed with equal grace and effect on the piano, the 
violin, and the flute, and it is said that the Church of Scotland is 
indebted to him for the arrangement of some of its most beautiful 
Psalm tunes. Dr Andrew Stewart is famed as being the author 
of the bracing, or antiphlogistic mode of treatment in puhnonary 
and consumptive complaints, which is known by his name, and is 
now almost universally adopted, as the most successful in diseases 
of the breast, though it was keenly opposed by the leading medical 
practitioners, both in Scotland and England, at the beginning of 
this century. 

Modem BuUdinffs. — Happily for the peace and morality of the 
people, no mills nor manufactories can be numbered among the 
modern erections. The chief of these are, the church, a hand* 
some modem Gothic building, erected in 181*% which has since 
served as a model for several new churches in different parts of 
the country ; — a new parish school, built in 1839, which is larger 
and more commodious than any yet built in this county, and bears 
testimony at once to the liberality of the heritors, in increasing 
the schoolmaster^s accommodation, and to their regard for the 
health and comfort, as well as the education of the children of 
the lower orders ; — and a column, in form of an obelisk, 80 feet 
high, already referred to,, as raised by the gentlemen of the county, 
in memory of the late Lord Blantyre, about the year 1833L 



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ER8K1NK. *5l5 - 

But the most attractive building of which the parish can boast 
if the new mansiori-house of Erskine, erected by the late Lord 
Blantyre, from a plan furnished by Sir Robert Smirke of London. 
** This building/' says a modem publication, *^ is erected in the 
manorial or domestic Gothic of Queen Elizabeth's reign, with 
perpendicular windows, many of them large, and of great beauty. 
The splendid irregularity of this style of building has been seldom 
displayed, in modern times, to greater advantage than at Erskine 
House, and particularly when seen from the water, its effect is 
rich and striking. The house is of great sice, extending in front 
185 feet in length, besides its kitchen, court, and nursery wing ; 
the principal part rising in height to two storeys, is terminated by 
rich cornices atxl, decorated pinnacles. The internal arrangements 
are exceedingly magnificent The house contains upwards of 
seventy-five rooms, of which seven are public rooms of large size 
and beautiful proportions. The picture gallery is 118 feet in 
length. The vestibule, hall, and gallery open from one into the 
other with folding doors ; and the whole of their extent can be 
seen at once from the grand entrance, presenting a splendid per* 
spective of 196 feet'' 

III. — Population. 

Tn 1750, the parish is said to have oonteined . 82P 

J 771. ... 870 
I7d2, when the last Statistical Account was wHtten, 806 

1801, . . . -847 

1811, ... 963 

1821, . »73 

1831, . . 973 

It is a curious circumstance, and one well worthy of remark, that 
this parish is the only one in Scotland in which the number of in- 
habitants has undergone no change between the census of 1821 
and that of 1831. The census of 1841 will probably show a very 
great increase in the population of this parish, as the Glasgow and 
Greenock Railway, which has brought an immense iniSux of la- 
bourers into it, will not, in all probability, be finished before that 
time.* 

The following table will show the average an^ount of births, 
marriages, and deaths, which annually occur here : 

Average number of births for the last seren ymn, • 20 

marriages, 11 

deaths, . . 15 

The register of births, however, is not absolutely correct, owing 

* By the census of 1841 9 the population was found to amount to 1407. 



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516* RENFREWSHIRE. 

to the occasional neg^lect of parents in registering them ; the above- 
mentioned number, therefore, may be reckoned a little below the 
truth. A register of deaths seems never to have been kept in tiiis 
parish, and the number mentioned has been supplied by the sex- 
ton. 

The average number of persons below the specified ages are^ as 
nearly as can be ascertained, the following : 

Number below the age of 15» SOO 

betireen the age of 15 and aO, 286 

fiO and 50, 258 

50 and 70, 9$ 

above the age of 70, * 22 

The average number of families in the parish is 195, of which 
there are 38 resident in the small villages of Blackstoun and Ross- 
land, and 157 in the country districts, living at considerable dis- 
tances from one another. 

The average number of children in each family ia . .3 

unmarried men, both widowers and bachelors, above 50. 21 

Ibmales above 45^ 90 

Number of fatuous persons, . .1 

houses inhabited, . 170 

uninhabited, .... 

The excess of families above the number of houses is easily ac- 
counted for, from the circumstance, that one house often accom- 
modates two, and even three femilies. 

Cliaracter of the People^ Customs and Habits^ 4^c. — There is no- 
thing remarkable in the character of the people, except it may be 
the preservation of their simple, kindly, and respectfiil manners, 
notwithstanding their proximity to the lai*ge manufacturing towns 
of iPaisley and Johnstotte. They are very regular in llieir atten- 
dance on divine ordinances, and are, for the most pari, ^teniy and 
sober. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture aiid Rural Economy : — 

The extent of the parish in standard imperial acres, is 
Number of acres arable land, . 

waste hind, pasture, moss, &c. 

wood, - ^ 

There are only a few acres of natural copse-wood, which, though 
picturesque in appearance, is of little value. Great attention is 
paid by all the proprietors to the management of their woods, both 
in the way of pruning and thinning them. 

There is Yiot much land Still in a waste and un[$1^dactive state, 
if we except about 200 acres of moss land, which the proprietors, 



A. 


u. 


r. 


7108 


3 


39 


5121 


2 


24 


1431 


1 


2R 


554 





27 



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ERSKINB. *5l7 

Lord Douglas and Mr Maxwell of Daiigavel, are gradually clear- 
ing away, and about 400 acres of shore ground on Liord Blan* 
tyre's and General Darroch's estates. 

Rent of Land. — Grain rents are stiil common in the parish, and 
these are regulated by the fiar prices ; but money rents have also 
been introduced, and seem to be preferred both by tenant and 
landlord as more certain. The average rent of arable land is 
about L.1, Ids. per Scotch, or L.1, per imperial acre. 

Rent of Grazing. — The average rent charged for grazing is as 
follows — for a cow, summer-gracing, L. 4, winter do. L. 6, 10s. ; 
per annum, L.10, 10s. Black-faced sheep per annum, 10s. 6d.; 
white-faced pets per do. L.1, 7s. 

Bate cf Wages. — The rate of w(^s for labourers, plough- 
men, 8cc., is the same as in the parish of Inchinnan. Ploughmen 
with bed, board and washing, per half year, L.9; married do. with 
a house and garden per half year, Li 12, 10s. ; female servants per 
do. L.4 to L.5 ; labourers per week, 10s. to lis. ; women. Is. per 
day, but in harvest from Is. 6d. to 28. ; per week, 6s. to 12s. ; 
fuarriers per week, 13s. ; wrights per do., 16s.; masons per do,, 
18s. ; but at present, owing to the demand for masons on the rail- 
way, their wages are as high as L.1 per week. Mason-work, how- 
ever, is more frequently executed by contract at the following 
prices — ruble- work per rood, L.7, 10s.; coursed- work per da, 
L.11 ; ashlar-work per do., L.16. Many of the youD/2^ women are 
kept in constant employment by sewii^ muslins and embroidering 
crape shawls for manufacturers in Paisley, by which they make 
from lOd. to Is. ;3d. per day, according to the demand for the fol- 
lowing articles : Victoria stitch upon cotton muslin, averaging per 
day Is. 3d. ; French opening stitch on do. Is. 3d. ; French vein* 
ing on da Is. ; sewed silk shawls with satin boards. Is. ; Thibet 
wool shawls sewed with twined silk. Is. 

HuMbandry. — The first innovations on the old system of farm- 
ing in this parish were made about the year 1775, by Alexander 
the tenth Lord Blantyre, and have been very accurately described 
by Dr Young in the former Statistical Account. The system of 
a potation in crops, introduced by that nobleman, was in particu- 
lar, a source of great annoyance to the fiirmers, who could not 
at first appreciate the value of such a change. Now, however, that 
system is observed, not only on* Lord Blantyre's property, but 
likewise by the tenants on the other estates. The following is 
the rotation of crops which is followed on the best managed farius : 



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618* RENFREWSHIRE. 

1st year, oats after lea ; 2. potatoes or turnips; 3. wheat, barley, 
or oats ; 4. hay ; 5. and 6. pasture : and lately, on some of Lord 
Blantyre's forms, an eight-shift course, as it is called, adding two 
years more of pasture, has been adopted, with every prospect of 
success. The nature of the soil will not admit of repeated crop- 
ping without a falling off in the produce, and a considerable rest 
in grass seems requisite, in order to preserve fertility, except 
on the heavy land, which forms too small a proportion of the whole 
parish to affect its general features. The propriety of persisting 
in making wheat a general crop seems very doubtful, — neither the 
soil nor the climate being adapted for bringing this valuable article 
to maturity ; in addition to which the wheat crop seems to be by 
no means a good nurse for the young grasses sown down with it 
Barley is not a general crop, but might take the place of wheat 
with advantage, as it is much better adapted to the soil and cli- 
mate, and produces no bad effects upon the young grasses sown 
down with it. 

The greatest improvement introduced into the parish, of late 
years, is the tile-draining on the parallel or furrow system ; and, 
as all the soils of the first, second, and fourth classes, above-men- 
tioned, require to be freed from superfluous moisture attendant on 
an impervious subsoil, much yet remains to be done in this depart- 
ment From the interest taken, both by landlord and tenant, in 
this system, it is to be expected that a great change will have 
taken place in the course of ten or twelve years, both in the aspect 
and produce of the parish. On the Erskine estate the landlord 
provides the tiles, and is at the expense of draining in the first in- 
stance, the tenants paying five per cent, interest on the outlay dur- 
ing the continuance of their leases, and the same plan has been 
adopted by the other proprietors. Two tile-works have been 
lately erected in the parish, — one by Lord Blantyre on the lands 
of Glenshinnoch, and the other by Mr Rodger on the lands of 
Gledestane, on both of which there is found abundance of excel- 
lent clay for the manufacture of tiles. The subsoil plough, which 
has been introduced into East Lothian with great success for the 
purpose of turning up the subsoil, and mixing it with the surface 
soil, is to be introduced, during the course of this year, into this 
parish for the same purpose ; and, meanwhile, deep ploughing af- 
ter draining has been successfully practised, vrith that end in view. 

The leases of farms vary from fifteen to nineteen years, a num- 
ber of the more recent being of the former period. There are 

4 



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eUSKINB. 519* 

also some farms let on a lease of seven years. A lease of fifteen 
or nineteen years must, in general, be reckoned favourable to the 
occupier, except where the farm has been taken at too high a rate, 
and where there is a deficiency of capital on the part of the tenant ; 
but, in such cases, it is neither the interest nor inclination of land- 
lords to keep a tenant against his will. A lease is beneficial both 
to landlord and. tenant, — the former is not exposed to the risk of 
losing a good tenant on every occasion, and the tenant has a some- 
what permanent interest in this farm which stimulates his exertions 
to improve it, and certainly, without leases, one-half of the im- 
provements lately effected would not have been undertaken. 

The farm-houses are, for the most part, commodious and good, 
and the few uncomfortable old-fashioned structures which still re- 
main, are gradually giving place to neat and comfortable dwellings. 
The enclosures are generally formed by hedges of hawthorn, pri- 
vet, or beech, or by dry-stone walls of five feet in height. 

Live-stock. — There are not many horses reared in the parish, 
and those employed in agricultural labour are generally of the 
Clydesdale breed. The average number of farm-horses is 135, 
The cows are generally of the Ayrshire breed, though some of the 
farmers prefer a cross breed between the Guernsey and the Ayr- 
shire, as securing the good qualities of both. The average num- 
ber of milk cows usually kept in the parish is 355, in addition to 
which there are of young cows and black-faced cattle about 445. 

Produce. — Tho produce of the parish may be estimated annual- 
ly as follows : 



Grain of all kinds, 

PoUtoes, turnips, &c. 

Hay, 

Dairy produce. 

Pasturage, 

Tile manufacture. 


L.7596 
6862 
3165 
6074 
2500 
lOOO 


Thinnings of wood. 
Peats, 


500 
100 



L.27,797 
If this estimate of produce is compared with that which is given 
by Mr Lockhart in his account of Inchinnan, it will be found that 
there is a considerable difference in the proportion of grain to 
green crop and pasture in these contiguous districts ; but it must 
be remembered, that Inchinnan is much more a corn-growing pa- 
rish than Erskine, the latter being chiefly devoted to green crops 
and pasture. 

Quarries, — There are two freestone quarries about a mile east 



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520* RENFREWSHrtlF. 

from the church, on Lord Blantyre's property, which have afford- 
ed bDilding materials fer the new mansion-house at Erskine, for 
the church, and an addition made to the manse in 1816. There 
is also R freestone quarry on Mr Rodger's property, and several 
whinstone quarries throughout the parish, which are chiefly wrought 
to obtain metal for the parish roads. 

Fisfieries. — There are two or three salmon^fieheries on the 
banks of the Clyde, as it passes along this parish, bat they are 
not taken by any of the inhabitants; indeed, the produce of tbeae 
is so small as scarcely to repay the expense of the necessary fish- 
ing apparatus. The right of all the salmon-fishings on the Clyde 
belongs by ancient royal charter to the town of Renfrew ; and the 
magistrates of that burgh, or friends authorized by them, occa- 
sionally amuse themftelves by a day's fishing at the different stft- 
tions. Spirlings or smelts are now very rarety found, and the 
large red trout and shrimps, which Dr Young mentions as being 
formerly caught here, are now unknown. The salmon when 
caught is sent to the Glasgow market, and sells from 6d. to Is. ild. 
per pound. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Markets. — The nearest market-town is Paisley, which lies about 

• six mites distant from the east end of the parish. The tohabitaDts 

of the west end usually frequent the markets of Port- Glasgow or 

Greenock, which are respectively three and six miles distant from 

them. 

Villages. — There are only two villages in the parish, both of 
them on the Rossland estate, one called Blackstown, in honour of 
the mother of the present proprietor, and the other called Easter 
Rossland, which scarcely, indeed, deserves the name of a village, as 
it consists of five houses, containing in all twelve families. They 
are both situated on the line of the new Greenock road. 

Means of Communication. — At the post-office of Bishoptoun 
there are three arrivals and three departures of mails daily, viz. arri- 
vals, from Glasgow, 6 morning, Paisley, 2 p. m., Greenock, 3 P. m.; 
departures, to Greenock, 6 p. u., Glasgow, 6 p. m., Pauley, 8 p. m. 
In addition to this post-office, Lord Blantyre and his &ctor, the 
minister, and several of the inhabitants tn the eastern part of the 
parish, get their letters at the post-office at Old Kilpatrick, on the 
north side of the Clyde, as this arrangement in many respects 
proves most convenient to them. The mail is conveyed by gigs. 



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ERSKINE. ♦521 

The public road from Glasgow to Greenock passes through the 
whole length of the parish, and there are other parish roads kept 
in good, repair by the statute labour trust, which lead to Inchin- 
uan, Houston, and Kilmaloolm. The communication with Glas- 
gow and Greenock is now carried on chiefly by the steam-boats, 
which put out and take in passengers at Erskine Ferry, every half 
hour, in their passage up and down the river, and no week passes 
without some of the farmers taking advantage of this mode 
of conveyance on their way to market. The steam-boats have 
long since put an end to posting and running of coaches between 
Glasgow and Greenock, and in all probability they will in a great 
measure be superseded in their turn by the Glasgow, Greenock, and 
Paisley Railway. The determination lately come to by the directors 
of that Railway to prevent all travelling along it on Sabbath, is such 
as warmly to recommend it to the patronage of all connected with 
this parish, which, frpm its beauty, and its vicinity to Glasgow 
and Paisley) would, but for that determination, have been overrun 
every Sabbath with visitors little likely to improve either the tem- 
poral or spiritual interests of the people.* 

There are two ferries in the parish, both belonging to Lord 
Blantyre ; the one called Erskine Ferry forms the mean of com- 
munication with the parish and village of Old Kilpatrick ; the one 
called the West Ferry, affords a communication with the castle 
And town of .Dumbarton. The former is under the management 
of an excellent and careful tenant, and the inn connected with it 
has, from its neatness and comfort, become a favourite resort for 
dinner parties from Glasgow. At present, this is the lowest ferry 
on the river at which carriages and horses can cross from Ren- 
frewshire to Dumbartonshire and the Western Highlands, and, on 
that account, there is always a considerable traflSc gging on. 
The following is a table of the freights charged : — A four-wheeled 
chaise, with two horses, 2s. 6d. ; a gig, with one horse. Is. 6d. ; 
a cart going and returning with one load. Is. 2d. ; a horse, 4d. ; 
a cow, 2d.; sheep per score. Is.; passengers crossing, Id.; pas- 
sengers going on board steamers, 2d. The West Ferry has hitherto 
been ill kept and little used ; but the Glasgow and Greenock Railway 
Covpany have recently been empowered to purchase it from Lord 
Blantyre, and have got an act of Parliament for erecting quays and 
other works, in order ^o make a communication with Dumbarton, the 

* The rates for luggage on tbe Railway are to moderate, that the farmers now gc. 
ueraUy prefior it to any other mode of coureyance for heavy goods. 1842. 



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522* RBNFRBW8H1RE. 

public works on the river Leven, and the Highlands generaity, by 
means of a steam ferry-boat« As this will afford a passage for 
carriages six miles further down the river than the Erskine Ferry, 
it must diminish considerably the traffic now carried on there, 
though it will prove a great convenience to the public gefieraliy. 

Ecclesiastical State. — There can be no doubt that Erskine was 
originally erected into a separate parish in the days of Popery, as 
we find mention made of the Popish vicars and parsons who held 
the living, such as ^^ Robert Sempill, Vicar of Erskine,'' mentioned 
in Hamilton's History of Renfrewshire, and '< David Stewart, par- 
son of Erskine," naentioned by M^Lure in his History of Glasgow, 
published in K739. In this treatise, which is a very curious one^ 
the author informs us, that *^ the incumbent of Erskine, previous 
to the Reformation, was one of the thirty-two prebendaries who 
constituted the chapter of the archbishopric of Glasgow, whose 
office it was to be electors of the archbishops and council for the 
administration of the offices of their function, both with respect to 
the temporality and spirituality thereof, for the prebendaries of 
the Episcopal see had a vote in the chapter, and a stall in the 
choir, and had vicars under them, who served the cure in their 
several parsonages and paroch churches, or parsons who had their 
full tithes/' Bishop Cameron, who was appointed to the see of 
Glasgow in 1426, compelled the thirty-two canons of the metro- 
politan church to build manors in the vicinity of his own ca$tle» 
and it is in giving an account of these that we find the author al- 
ready mentioned adding, ^' The prebend of Erskine had his house 
at the foot of the Rotten Row, which belonged afterwards to 
James Fleming by purchase of Mr David Stewart, parson of Ers- 
kine, before the Reformation, The lands of BIythswood belonged 
to the parsons of Erskine, as a charter still extant bears, granted 
by Queen Mary to David Stewart, parson of Erskine, and sold 
to George Elphinstone, son of a burgess in Glasgow of the same 
name, and to this day the minister of Erskine receives the feu- 
duty of the lands, though the proprietor be a vassal of the Crown*" 
This feu-duty, amounting to the annual sum of 5s. Sterling, was 
paid at stated intervals to Dr Young, the incumbent before the 
last, till about the year 1799; and the late incumbent having al- 
lowed upwards of twenty years to pass after his induction here 
without claiming it, during which time, the persons employed by 
Dr Young to collect it died, the proprietor of BIythswood, through 
his agent, has lately, refused to. acknowledge the claim of the mi- 



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ERSKINB. *5V0 

nister to draw this feu-duty. The sum, indeed, is suflSciently 
trifling, yet, it is to be regretted, that any thing belonging to the 
cure, and tending to establish its antiquity, should, through care- 
lessness, have been lost. The stipend paid to the minister, pre- 
vious to 1881, was 15 chalders, half meal, half barley; at that 
time, however, it was raised to 17 chalders, with L.8, 6s. 8d. for 
communion elements. 

There has been no regular register kept of the incumbents 
of Erskine, and it is therefore impossible to say whether the 
following list includes all who have served the cure since 
1600 : ^* Robert Sempill, vicar of Erskine, deceist in the 
moneth of December in the zier of God 1600." He seems to 
have been succeeded in 1602 by William Brisbane, parson of Ers- 
kine, a son of John Brisbane, laird of Bishopton, the first Protest- 
ant minister. In 1642, he was succeeded by his son, Matthew 
Brisbane, a man of great worth and abilities. In 1649, Thomas 
Hall, from Ireland, was appointed minister, and after him William 
Thomson, though in what year is uncertain. William Houston 
was appointed in 1660, and was ejected two years afterwards in 
1662. In 1692, William Turner was appointed; but was trans- 
lated to Greenock in 1704. Walter Menzies succeeded in 1705, 
and died in 1741. In 1742, James Lundie was presented, and 
in 1772, he was succeeded by Walter Young, D.D., who died iu 
3814. His place was supplied by Andrew Stewart, M. D., who 
was translated from Bolton in 1815, and died in December 18da 
The present incumbent was ordained assistant and successor to 
his father on the 16th March 1837. 

The old church, which was supposed to have been built in Pop- 
ish times, having become ruinous, was pulled down in 1813, and 
the benetieTf which held the holy water at the principal entrance, is 
still to be seen lying in the church*yard. It was situated in the 
middle of the church-yard ; but the new one has been built at a 
little distance from it, on a site granted by Lord Blantyre. It is 
to be re^fretted, that, when a new church was about to be built, 
the heritors had not fixed on a more central situation for it, and 
one which would have proved more convenient to the majority of 
the parishioners,-— for, situated as it is, at a distance of one mile 
from the eastern, and seven from the western extremity of thepa*- 
risb, the inhabitants of the last-mentioned quarter cannot usually 
attend their own parish church in winter, and have to seek accom- 
modation in the parish church and Cameronian chapel at Kilmal- 



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524* RBNPREWSHTRE. 

colin. The number of sittings in the ohurch is 500, and the sit- 
tings at the communion table are appropriated to the poor. No 
seat-rents are exacted either by the herilors er kirk-setsioo. 

There are twelve elders at present in the kirk-sessMMi, to each 
of whom a separate dbtrict has been allotted, which he statedly 
visits twice a year, and reports diligence to the session. The 
number of communicants is about 820 ; and the roll of male heads 
of families, made up in terms of the regulations of the veto act, 
contains 98w The average amount of collections for the poor an- 
nually is L.3$, 14s. 9d., in addition to which the collections for 
the Assembly's schemes amount annually to the average sum of 
L.20. The relative number of persons belonging to the Esta- 
blishment and to the different bodies of Dissenters is as follows : 
Establishment, 057 ; Cameronians, 9 ; United Secession, 3 ; Re- 
lief, 4 ; Episcopalians, 3 ; Papists, 4. 

The manse was built about sixty years ago ; but a laige addi- 
tion was made to it by the heritors on the appointment of the last 
incumbent in 1815, and some small additions were also made to 
it lately,$which render it a commodious dwelling. The glebe is 
small, containing only five acres of arable land. 

Education. — There are two schools in this parish, the parochi- 
al school, a handsome building, which has only been a few months 
completed, and a subscription school, which was built about thirtv 
years ago, in the western district of the parish, but which, being 
now>uinous,''is about to be replaced immediately by a larger and 
more comfortable ediBce.- The parochial schoolmaster has a 
good house, containing six apartments, and the legal amount of 
ground for a garden, but he only receives the medium rate of sa- 
lary, amounting to L. 80 a year, which is too small a remuneration 
for an efficient teacher such as this parish at present happily en* 
joys. In addition to the ordinary branches, he is qualified to 
teach Liatin, Greek, and practical mathematics, and the fees vary 
from 86. to 7s. per quarter, according to the branches taught. As 
the people generally seem alive to the great importance of educa- 
tion, there are no children above nine or ten years old unable to 
read, and, generally speaking, all can write. The children of the 
poor are educated gratis. The two last pisirochial schoolmasters 
here are now clergymen in the Church of Scotland, viz. the Rev, 
Archibald Macooecby of Buiikle, in East Lothian, and the Rev. 
James Allan of Paramatta^ New South Wales. There is also a 



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BRSKINE. ^525 

Sabbath school in the parish taught by the minister, schoolmas- 
ter and elders. 

Library. — A parochial library was instituted about four years 
ago by the late incumbent, which already contains between 300 
and 400 Yolumes. The inhabitants of the parish become mem- 
bers by paying 2s. 6d. at entrance, and an annual subscription of 
Is. thereafter. The interest in it seems unfortunately already in 
great measure to have died away. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons at present 
on the poor's roll is six, but the average may be taken at eight. 
The allowance given to each pauper varies according to circum- 
stances ; the highest rate now paid is 148. a month, and the low* 
est 4& The funds requisite fbr the support of the poor are pro* 
vided partly by the collections at the church door, which amount 
on an average to L. 85, 14s. dd. yearly, and partly by a volun-^ 
tary contribution, to which the heritors agree, the minister and 
heritors being alike opposed to a legal assessment, the invariable 
tendency of which is to increase the number of paupers, and to ba- 
nish that spirit of independence for which the Scotch were once 
so remarkable. 

Friendly Societies. — A Friendly Society was instituted in the pa- 
rish about twelve years ago, for the purpose of assisting those mem- 
bers who should be unable from illness to support themselves, with- 
out having recourse to parochial aid. The number of members is 
limited to sixty, each of whom pays 6s. as entrance money, and Is. 
6d. every quarter. The amount of charity bestowed is as follows : 
58. a week, provided the invalid member be confined to bed, and if 
not, ds. a week. This society has been of considerable use in im- 
parting well-timed pecuniary assistance, and deserves the encourage- 
ment and support both of the heritors and people. 

Savings Banks. — One of these useful institutions, in connection 
with the Paisley Nationhl Security Savings Bank, was begun in 
May 1838, and the result has proved more successful than could 
have been imagined, considering the population of the parish. It 
were an act of injustice not to mention, that much of its suoeess is 
attributable to the kind attention of Mr Duflf, the schoolmaster, 
who acts as secretary and treasurer, and willingly receives depo- 
sitors at any time they are disposed to come, instead of fixing them 
down to particular days and hours. There are 38 depositors at 
present, eight of whom only are strangers connected with the rail- 
way. The amount deposited is as follows : 



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526* RENFBEWSHIRE. 

From Maj 1888 to May 1839, . . L. d25 15 

Do. 1889 do. 1840, . . 802 

Do. 1840 to Julj 1840, . . <52 16 



L.680 11 
Amount withdrawn from May 1888 to July 1840, 170 



Leaving in the bank, . L.510 1 1 

^/e-A4)t£fe««— There is a Dice inn in the parish^ kept by the fer- 
ryman at Erskine ferry, and, in addition, there are no less than 
fire public-houses in the parish, one or two of which are by no 
means well oonducted. In a country parish such as this, the prac- 
tice of licensing any one who applies to the quarter sessions, with 
a certificate from a justice of peace, without requiring from the 
kirk-session a certificate of moral character, is felt to be an into- 
lerable nuisance. 

FuffL — The fuel chiefly used is coal and peat. The latter is 
cut in this and the neighbouring parish of Inchinnan, in the moss 
belonging to Messrs Maxwell of Dargavel, and Alexander of 
Southbar, and is partially used both by cottars and others ; but 
coal is also used in every house, however poor, and is sold at 9d. 
per cwt. There is no coal fit for use to be had nearer than 
Paisley, but, as the Glasgow coal is equally cheap and of a better 
quality, it is generally preferred. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Since the last Statistical Account was written, there has been 
a decrease in the number of public- houses to the amount of three, 
and there is certainly much less drinking now among the inhabi- 
tants than formerly. Since then, however, it is matter of deep re- 
gret, that family worship, formerly almost universal in the parish, 
has been very much neglected, or discontinued, and that the num- 
ber of illegitimate births has been on the increase, while the pledge 
of marriage usually given in such cases is rarely redeemed. The 
scenes of drunkenness. Sabbath profanation, and horrid blasphe- 
my, with which an unsophisticated country population has been fa- 
miliarized, by a residence among them of the very worst descrip- 
tion of English, Irish, and Highlanders, to the amount of 1500 or 
2000 persons employed on the railway, for the last two years, have 
been productive of the most blighting and pernicious effects, both 
on old and young, which it is to be feared, in many cases, will never 
be fully eradicated. 

August 1840. 
Rtvined April 1642. 



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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 



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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

ON THE COUNTY OF RENFREW.^ 



Geography^ §"c. — This county, with Strathclyde, Ayr, and Stir- 
ling, was, at the time of the Roamn dominion, possessed by a Celtic 
race, termed by their conquerors the Damnii, their chief town here 
being Vanduaria, which some suppose to have been near the site 
of Paisley, while Camden in Ptolemy's Randvara, thinks he sees 
the Renfrew of modem times clearly indicated. The whole was 
within the Roman province of Valentia. The angular point of 
land at Renfield, formed by the junction of the rivers Clyde and 
Cart, seems, in the descriptive language of the Celts, to have given 
name to the town in its neighbourhood, and the town ultimate- 
ly to the whole county. The word rin or ren signifies a neck-land, 
as O'Brien in his " Word- Book" has so clearly shown. Our rinns 
of Galloway is an example in point. The freu or frau signifies 
a flux or flow of tide. The Rinn of Renfrew, now Renfield, has a 
double flux, one up the Cart and another up the Clyde, and in 
good modern English may be termed the ^^ tidal cape or peninsu- 
la." In a charter of David L, preserved in the chartulary of Kelso, 
No. 1, the spelling is Renfru. In the Rotuli Scotorum^ a printed 
copy of which is in the Paisley Library, the name occurs for the 
first time in 1311, and is rendered Reynfreu — in other charters 
connected with the early history of the Stewarts, the spelling is 
Renfreu, Reinfreu, and Ranfreu. Should Rhon be interpreted a 
division or portion, as it sometimes is, Ronfreu will signify the por- 
tion connected with the flow of the tide — still pointing to the land 
near the junction of the Clyde and Cart. Some render the name 
Rein Froachy or the north-easterly division. That district bound- 
ed on the east by the Black Cart, and comprehending the country 
lying westward to the Clyde, was formerly termed Stragryfe, being 
watered by the Gryfe ; and Chalmers seems to think the Lever- 
nani of Hailes's Annals, i. 78, who fought at the battle of the Stan- 
dard, were the men of Levernside, the sons of the noisy stream^ 



* Drawn up liy Rev. William Patrick, Hamilton. 



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OBSERVATIONS ON THE COUNTY OP RENFREW. 529 

(for such is the meaning of Levern,) who mustered round the Pad. 
Renfrewshire, by way of pre-eminence, is often termed the B o- 
ny of Renfrew, because, being the ancient inheritance of the fa- 
mily of Stuart, it gives the title of Baron to the heir apparent of 
the Crown. The greatest length of the county from Drumduffin 
Eaglesham to the Clocb, is about 31^ miles. The extreme breadth, 
from a bridge near Kilbirnie Loch to Erskine House, is 18^ miles 
I^narkshire bounds it on the east and north-east ; Ayrshire on the 
south ; and the Frith of Clyde, separates it from Dumbarton, on the 
north, and frqm Argjieshire on the west. This important district 
lies between 55° 40' 40", and 55° 58' 10'' north latitude, and be- 
tween 4° 1 5' and 4P 52' 30" longitude west of Greenwich. The 
county town is 50 miles west of Edinburgh. The area of this shire 
is 241 square miles, or 154,240 English acres. It is entirely si- 
tuated on the southern side of the river Clyde, with the exception 
of the King's Inch near the town of Renfrew, amounting to about 
1294 acres, which lies on the northern side of the river. It appears, 
from the late Dr Burns's accoimt of the parish of Renfrew, that, 
in the course of last century, the Clyde left its usual bed, nearly 
opposite to Scotstoun, took a semicircular direction, leaving the 
King^s Inch upon the north side, and running along by the bottom 
of the garden belonging to the manse, came into its present direc- 
tion, near to the place where the ferry now is. A much more in- 
convenient addenda to' the county of Renfrew consisted in the an- 
cient attachment of the lands in the parish of Bathgate in West Lo- 
thian, to the jurisdiction of the sheriffdom of this county. This 
jurisdiction continued till about 1 530 : and so completely was Bath- 
gate, afker that disjunction, isolated from other counties in Scot- 
land, that it continued a separate sheriffdom till the abolition of 
heritable jurisdictions in 1 748, when it was united to Linlithgow. 
This county was probably very early divided into wards or districts, 
like Lanarkshire. In 1616, William Cunningham of Craigans 
was served heir to the office of coroner and mayor of fee, in the 
west ward of Stragryffe, and in the upper ward of Renfrew, as ap- 
pears from the Inquisitw Specialii now in Paisley Library, 38. In 
1815, when a Sheriffs'- Court was first appointed to be held at Green- 
ock, the judicial district assigned to him, consisting of Greenock, 
Port- Glasgow, and Innerkip, was termed the Lower W^ard of Ren- 
frewshire ; and that which is under the jurisdiction of the sheriff 
at Paisley was termed the Upper Ward. The Sheriff Court has 
been held at Paisley since the reign of James VI. 



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630 GfiNEUAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

The general declination of the surface of Renfrewshire, taken 
on the great scale, is towards the Frith of the Clyde, and the 
trough or outlet of nearly all its waters centres in a point at Indi- 
innan. There are only one or two remarkable exceptions, which* 
like some other exceptions,- ser?e to confirm the general rule. 
When the Frith of the Clyde takes its noble sweep southwards by 
Gourock and Innerkip, presenting an easterly flow of wave towards 
the shore, the little water of Kipp, (hence Inver-Kipp,) and Hous- 
ton Burn, with the usual devotion of the smaller to the greater 
streams, run directly west to add to the Clyde the tribute of their 
diminutive waters, these being almost the only streams of the smal- 
lest note in Renfrewshire, with an exception to be afterwards not- 
ed, which do not find their way directly or indirectly to Inchinnan 
Bridge. The most elevated lands are in the south-west and south- 
east There is nothing in the whole shire approaching the moun- 
tainous. The chief range of hills is at the west — stretching along 
the coast at various angles, from Greenock to Ardrossan. The 
greatest elevation of this ridge, which seems as if set down near to 
the shore, as the great barrier between sea and land, are at Misty 
Law and the Hill of Staik, in the parish of Lochwinnoch, or upon 
its borders. The Misty Law is generally supposed to be about 
1260 feet high, and the Hill of Staik is probably still more ele- 
vated. But these points of dispute here and elsewhere will be 
speedily set at rest by the publication of the Trigonometrical Sur- 
vey of Scotland, now going on by the appointment of Government, 
The other considerable elevations are on the south-east of the 
county, in the parish of Eaglesham, such as Balageich^ Danwan> 
Mires, 8ic. Towards the centre, the general features are striking 
and picturesque, in many places being well-wooded, and varied by 
fine undulations, knolls, and rising-grounds. Some of these knolls,, 
although of no great elevation, command extensive views. The 
whole of the less elevated district is, in short, a sort of table-land, 
full of irregularities, but all cultivated or capable of cultivation. 
There is, besides the above, a considerably elevated tract of land 
passing from Paisley' along by the eastern parts of Lochwinnoch, 
and running on towards the western coast The vallies in this 
county are extensive and beautiful, and lying as they do in the 
centre of a manufacturing district^ they are still more valuable thau 
seemly. The great vale of Renfrewshire is unquestionably Strath- 
gryffe. Connected with this is another vale which runs through 
Kilbarchan, Lochwinnoch, and along by Kilbirnie and Dairy 



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COUNTY OP RENFREW. 531 

I'here are, besides, many other small but delightful vales amidst 
the hills, and by the courses of the smaller streams. The side vale 
going by Kilbarchan and Lochwinnoch, is the site of the principal 
inland lakes in the county, viz. Barrand Castle- Semple, lochs in. 
eluding Kilbirnie. At one period, this valley seems to have been 
very extensively covered with water. 

Meteorology, — The county of Renfrew may be regarded as the 
counter-part of Lanarkshire, the one lying on the north, and the 
other on both sides of the upper Clyde. Renfrewshire being nearer 
to, and more under the influence of the Western Ocean and Frith 
of Clyde, is certainty more moist than Clydesdale. In several of the 
New Statistical Accounts of the parishes of Renfrewshire, figures 
and tables are employed by their authors to show that the climate is 
not so rainy as is generally supposed. This is certainly a meteorologi- 
cal fact worth ascertaining, even independent of the apparent desire 
, to screen themselves, at the expense of their neighbours, by at- 
tempting to prove that there are moister skies not far off than 
that which hangs over the shire of Renfrew. Certainly in a me- 
teorological point of view, the atmosphere and climate of this part 
of Scotland are shrouded in as little mystery as any other dis- 
trict in the whole island. On either side of the county we have 
the very accurate, comprehensive, and scientific tables kept at 
Glasgow, both during the late and present centuries, besides those 
of Sir Thomas Brisbane at Largs, both places, to use a vulgar 
but expressive phrase, but a " cock*stride" from the north-eastern 
and south-western extremities of the shire — exactly corresponding, 
in this respect, with the grand geological directions, by which the 
more active phenomena of nature in former times were exercised, 
in giving shape and form to the present structure and surface of 
the globe. A very careful and important meteorological journal 
seems to have been kept for many years past at Castle Semp]p, in 
the parish of Ix>chwinnoch, giving the results of the barometrical 
and thermometrical movements, and differences in that quarter, 
for a definite portion of time, together with the conflicting results 
of two rain-gauges, kept in the gardens at the same place. In the 
account of the parish of Greenock, and also in the account of 
Paisley, some extracts and calculations are given from registers of 
the state of the weather, kept by Mr Mackinlay> the apothecary 
and clerk of the Infirmary at Greenock, and Dr Rodman of 
Paisley. In the Greenock account, and in the account of the pa- 
rish of Lochvvinnoch, all the statistical facts respecting the climate 



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532 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

of this district, worth depending upon, may be obtained. The 
difference between the Greenock and Lochwinnoch pluviometers 
is very remarkable. The years of observation are unfortunately 
not the same ; but we repeat them as follows, for the sake of a few 
observations to be engrafted upon them. 

Greenock. Lochvinuocb. 

I83G, - 41.89 18-28, • • 54.9^ 

1807, - 82.39 1829, - 89-85 

1838, - 81.75 1880, - 65M 

The pluviometers of Lochwinnoch are said to yield between 
themselves very different results; and at Greenock, Mr James 
Leitch, merchant, is stated to have remarked that a pluviometer 
placed on the roof of the Infirmary, and one in the garden, behind 
it, showed in 1836 the one 41.89, and the other 6!2.10, and in 
1837, the one 32.89, and the other 49.15. When afterwards 
placed on the roof beside each other, they nearly corresponded* 
In reference to the above statements, it is only necessary to re^ 
mark, that it has been long known as an established fact in me- 
teorology, that if a rain-gauge be placed on the ground, and an- 
other at some height perpendicularly above it, more rain will be 
collected into the lower tluin into the upper; a proof that the 
quantity of rain increases as it descends, owing, perhaps, to the 
drops attracting vapour during their passage through the lower 
strata of the atmosphere, where the greatest quantity resides. 
Although Dr M^Farlane very justly concludes, that the above dis- 
crepancies throw " a great. degree of uncertainty over the conclu- 
sions drawn from a comparison of the quantities of rain alleged to 
have fallen in different districts of the country," it is proper, by way 
of caveat, to remark, that the results are not always such as above 
stated. Long ago, Mr Copland of Dumfries showed elearly that 
the quantity of rain collected in a higher and lower guage, was 
regulated by a law, and in particular, that when the quantity of 
rain collected in the lower guage was greatest, the rain commonly 
continued for some time ; and that the greatest quantity was col« 
lected in the higher guage only, either at the end of great rains, 
or during rains which did not last long. .These are important con- 
siderations. It is not said whether the greater quantity of rain 
was collected in the upper or under pluviometer at Greenock — it 
was probably the under, and that because of the continued mois- 
ture of the under strata of the atmosphere. To make observa- 
tions aright, two pluviometers ought to be kept, at least, the one 
much higher than the other; the average struck between both will 



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COUNTY OF RENFREW. 633 

come near the truth. The average annual fall of rain at Greenock 
is said to be 35.34, and here a comparison is made between West- 
morlandy Cumberland, and Manchester. As the tables referred 
to in England are now some of them verj old, and as the mode of 
conducting these things formerly was different from that adopted 
at present, less reliance can be placed upon them. 

Very accurate tables were published in the Manchester Tran- 
sactions, Vol. iv. including observations made at Chatsworth, 
27.865; Liverpool, 34.40; Lancaster, 40.3 ; Kendal, 6L2'23 ; 
Dumfries, 36.127; Manchester itself being 43 1. As the rains 
of the west are so much celebrated, it has been thought worth 
while to dwell somewhat at length on the subject. The other 
meteorological phenomena will be found in the accounts of the 
several parishes. Dr Fleming of Neilston's " poplar-leaf" is not a 
bad thermometer, or rather index to the weather. 

Hydrography. — First in importance under this head is the 
frith or arm of the sea which bounds so considerable a portion of 
Renfrew. The Clyde, in its upper course, is not a large river, 
and only sends its tide up to Rutherglen, a short way above Glas- 
gow. Although, on its first approach to the shores of Renfrew, 
it is not picturesque in itself, yet it soon becomes so as soon as it 
begins to swell into a frith. At first the shores are flat and some- 
what marshy, but are beautifully studded, both near and at a dis- 
tance, with thriving villages, villas, and gentlemen's seats. At 
length the hills of Dumbarton and Argyleshire appear, rendered 
more interesting in their blue and misty distance, as yet but im- 
perfectly defined to the eye. As the breadth of the frith expands, 
a curious isolated rock with a mitred summit springs up like the 
presiding genius of the Leven and the Clyde. Here they both 
cease to be rivers. This curiously formed and obtrusive rock 
bursting upon the sight all at once with an effect so piquant io the 
imagination, is the rock of Dumbarton ; Port- Glasgow and Green- 
ock soon appear upon the Renfrew shore ; and at length the frith, 
DOW a small sea, breaks into numerous arms or lochs, the main 
branch turning southward along the western shore of this county, 
on its way to the Ayrshire and Irish coasts, the North Channel, 
and the Atlantic Ocean. Renfrewshire runs with a sort of elbow 
into the Clyde at Greenock and Gourock. This noble frith, like 
all the seas either surrounding or intersecting this island, seems to 
have been subject (and still is so,) to great and progressing changes. 
Mr Montgomery, in his very excellent account of the geology of 



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534 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

Renfrewshire, when treating of this subject, remarks, that " it is al- 
most impossible for the most heedless observer to travel along that 
part of the coast (composed of old red sandstone) without being for- 
cibly struck by the marks which it affords of the former higher level 
of the sea.*' Mr Montgomery does not pretend to say whether 
the water has receded, or the land has been elevated, but sup- 
poses the water had once extended to cliffs thirty or forty feet 
above the present level of the sea. There are. abundance of 
rounded bpulders of primitive and transition rocks at the foot of 
these cliffs, and the level land which intervenes between them and 
the frith is ^^ full of shells exactly similar to those which are stiU 
plentiful on the adjacent shores ;" or, as is very graphically stated 
in the account of Greenock parish, where no theory was in view, 
when speaking of the soil, it is affirmed that, *^ on the shore, it con- 
sists chiefly of clay, mingled with sea shells and gravel/' Nu- 
merous holes,formerly occupied by the plwlaSf are also seen in the 
rocks far above the present level of that animal's habitations, Mr 
Stevenson, in a paper read before the Wernerian Society in 1816, 
takes a somewhat different view of this subject, apd is at great 
pains to illustrate, in that and a subsequent paper, the *^ wasting of 
the land by the encroachment of the sea," instead of its recession. 
He remarks that ^' all along the coast of Galloway, and shores of 
the shires of Ayr, Renfrew, and Bute, the wasting effects of the 
sea are equally remarkable." At the town of Stranraer, the houses 
along the shore had formerly gardens between tl)em at high-water- 
mark, but, of late y^rs, the inhabitants have been under the ne- 
cessity of greeting bulwarks to secure the waljs and approaches to 
' their houses. At the village of Kirkholm, a neck of land called 
Scar-Ridge, extended into the loch about half-a-mile, on which 
cattle, used formerly to be grazed, is now nearly washed away, and 
in high tides is laid wholly under water. Observations of a similar 
nature occur on various parts of the Frith of Clyde, which do not 
exactly agree with the theory of a former high level, or the pre- 
sent recession of the waters of the ocean from our coasts. Mr 
Stevenson attributes the process of waste and decay going on along 
the shores of our friths and seas to the impulse and action of the 
sea, and this, he supposes, is, in a great measure, owing to the im- 
mense quantity of debris accumulated, and accumulating, at least, 
to a certain depth, in the bottom of the sea. This theory is in 
some measure con(irmed,by the fact of a submarine island hav- 
ing been formed in the neck of the Frith, after losing the cliarac- 



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COUNTY OF RENFREW. 535 

ter of a river or running stream, at Port-Glasgow and Greenock. 
This bank, divided into two by a ^^ through-let/' is supposed still 
to be increasingi and so anxious are the merchants and magistrates 
of Greenock on this point, on account of the commerce of the 
Clyde, that they have instituted m^ans for ascertaining whetii^r 
or not this detrital ban^ be on the increase, and if so, we may soon 
expect to liear farther accounts of ^^ wars with the sea." Probably 
both theories are partly correct. Mr Montgomery, following in the 
walk of many eminent geologists, endeavours to trace out marks of 
the '^ former higher level of the sea." As to time, no person can 
say how long it may have been since this subsidence took place ; 
the data of geology are only relative. Mr Stevenson, as a civil-en- 
gineer, had occasion to observe causes and their present effects, and 
had to employ means for meeting or remedying them — so both parties 
are partly in the right. But of this more in another place. Perhaps 
there is no Frith in the world so completely land-lbcked,.and so fully 
sheltered from the full swell of the ocean tide, as the Frith of Clyde. 
The consequence is, that the tides are so languid, as to rise only 
from nine to eleven feet perpendicular, while the corresponding 
tides on the eastern coast of Great Britain, rise from fourteen to 
sixteen feet. The channel of the frith, with its extensive and wide 
spread arms, its angular evolutions, and its great natural break- 
waters Arran, Bute, and the Cumbrae isles,'^is quite the reverse 
of funnel-shaped ; a form most favourable to the flow of tides, and 
remarkable for that peculiar phenomenon the bore. The Clyde 
at Port-Glasgow is about two miles broad, and at Greenock it 
varies from three to five miles. Afterwards it expands greatly. 
In the account of the parish of Renfrew, there are some interest- 
ing remarks on the deepening of the river, and the appearance 
which it exhibited in the middle of the seventeenth century, as de- 
duced from the details of a map published at Amsterdam in }Q34. 
In the west or sea-coast of Renfrewshire, sea and land seem to run 
much into that peculiar form termed bays. The principal towns, 
Port-Glasgow, Greenock, and Goprock, are all situated on the 
chores of bays. Port- Glasgow is separated from Greenock by the 
Garvald Point, and Greenpck from Gourock by Kempoch Point. 
Fairley road or rade, extending beyond the limits of the county, 
still preserves the character of the coast. It could contain any 
number of ships, likely to seek for shelter in it, free from every 
storm, and having firm anchoring ground. The united bay of 
Greenock and Crawfordsdyke was formerly termed the bay of St 
Lawrence. Greenock harbour was first built in 1707, by a tax on 



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bSG GENERAL OBSBIIVATIONS ON THE 

malt. A peep at the frith from CoHie, the highest ground in the 
parish of Greenock, as given by the Rev. Mr Reid, once one of the 
ministers of Greenock, and afiterwards of Mauchline, is at once 
piquant, graphic, and striking. ^' From this height, those who 
are fond'of the varying scenery of nature," says he, ^* will some- 
times observe the smooth surface of the frith beginning to be ruf- 
fled with the wind, which here and there seems to pour down up- 
on it, moving the water in all directions. At other times they 
will mark the shadow of thick stationary clouds, which appear as 
so many islands ; and at times a light fleecy vapour, frequently 
mentioned in Gaelic poetry, suspended over, or by a gentle breeze 
slowly moving in the direction of the Clyde." This smooth and 
placid surface, it must be recollected, seems to be at the feet of 
the spectator, its arms stretching in difierent directions far into 
the Highlands, and besides the county of Renfrew, includes Bute, 
Arran, and Argyle, with the striking and majestic accompaniments 
of the western part of the Scottish Alps, the Grampian mountains 
of Perth, Stirling, Clydesdale, and Ayr. Sometimes, also during 
a severe frosty a very thick fog overhangs the trough of the Clyde 
from above Glasgow far beyond Greenock. This fog seldom rises 
more than 400 or 500 feet above the level of the sea, and to a per- 
son perched on the summit of Corlie, which is much higher, the 
scene is peculiar, and to those who crawl through life in the lower 
regions of the atmosphere, is not a little instructive. The mist 
keeping a certain well defined level, covers all the hollows on both 
sides of the frith. While people in the low grounds, all bespatter- 
red with hoar frost, pass a dark and disagreeable day, a serene sky 
may be enjoyed on the neighbouring heights, without the least 
speck of a cloud. The surface of the vast mass of vapour on 
which you look down, is so exactly defined, and seems so compact 
and firm, that one might think they could, from the brow of the 
hill, step upon it, and safely walk over to the hills on the opposite 
side of the river. These waves of vapour exhibit the swellings of 
the waves of the sea without their motion ; and, according to their 
situation, form, and density, are variously tinged with the rays of 
the sun ; while a breath of wind now and then detaching the top 
of a wave, spreads it on the azure sky, to assume whatever shapes 
the fancy of the beholder leads him to suppose. 

It has already been stated, that the waters of Renfrewshire* with 
trifling exceptions, have nearly their entire outlet by the Cart be- 
low Inchinnan Bridge. The whole shire, indeed, seems to have 



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COUNTY OF RENFREW. 637 

been set off at first not so much by 'artificial and well-defined boun- 
daries, as by the water-courses, all the burns, rivulets, streams, 
and the drainage of the fields finding their way by some route or 
other to Inchinnan Bridge. The only exceptions worth mention- 
ing are the Kipp, already alluded to, and Lugton Water, which 
last, ungratefully forsaking the bosom of Loch Libo, the gem of 
lochs in the west of Scotland, leaves the county which gives it 
birth, and falls into the Garnock a little below Kilwinning. It 
has been justly remarked, that rivers are the channels which moun- 
tain streams would maintain, and these in time sensibly extend the 
land by their deposits, and raise the level of the sea on all other 
coasts. The Greenock-bank, or submarine isle, at the mouth of 
Clyde, is equivalent to the deltas formed by the mud at the 
debauches of mightier and more formidable rivers. The carses or 
valleys of Renfrewshire, great and small, are evidently the tribute 
of its waters, as the cultivated soil is all evidently either transport- 
ed or deposited ; and unless a person were specially directing his 
attention to the subject, it is impossible to conceive how much the 
** soil grows" in a few years. The lakes in the valley of Loch- 
winnoch and Kilbirnie, now three in number, are said formerly to 
have been one. This is not merely a fact, but it is likely to be 
so. The mastery of the land over the water, now so apparent, 
may arise from two causes, drainage, and the accumulation of de- 
trital matter, which ultimately becomes soil, and in time, how 
long it is iufipossible to say, the soil may supplant the water alto- 
gether. The principal streams of Renfrewshire have their sources 
in its lakes or its hilly ridges. The parish of Eaglesham stretches 
far to the south, between Ayrshire and Lanarkshire, yet if included 
in the water- runs of the district, is a faithful and integral part of 
Renfrewshire. It is here that the White Cart first springs into 
existence. At Millhouse in Lanarkshire, Tor-burn and Thriep- 
land-burn meet, amid formidable rocks of great height and thick- 
ness. These are all of Osmond-stone. The Tbriepland-burn 
comes from the west. It is the junction of these two burns that 
forms the White Cart. After receiving the Reoch-bum, the 
Earn, and a host of smaller tributaries, the Cart hastens with all 
convenient speed to the lower country, where it is greeted on its 
way by the Levern, and several other streams of importance, and 
is ultimately hurried on towards Inchinnan Bridge, deepened and 
fitted for the navigation of small craft, at an expense which has 
almost ruined the town of Paisley. The Gryfe, a stream of very 



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538 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

considerable note and importance, has its sources in the moors and 
high lands situated between Kihnalcolm and the Largs. It receives 
the chief body of its waters by a combination of various streams at 
Duchal House. At first, its course is rapid, sprightly, and impe- 
tuous, rushing heedlessly over precipices, or hastening on in foam- 
ing rapids. In other places, it appears as a clear and picturesque 
stream, flowing between lofty banks and stately enclosures. It 
receives the Black Cart at Moss Walkinshaw, and as it winds 
through the rich and highly cultivated vale of Renfrewshire, it 
seems only anxious how to prolong its journey by its numerous and 
fantastic windings, and at length sweeping past the church of 
Inchinnan, it readies what may be termed the ^' spout of Ren- 
frewshire" at Inchinnan Bridge, and under the name of Cart 
quietly falls into the Clyde. The Calder rises on the borders of 
Ayrshire, and, pursuing a winding circuitous route in a south-eastern 
direction, falls into Castlesemple Loch, keeping up, it is asserted, 
^' a constant current through it, ^nd maintaining its salubrity." 
Its name, however, is lost in the lake, and when it again issues 
from it, the new stream becomes the Black Cart, dividing the 
shire nearly into two halves. It of course hastens on, (like most 
lake streams,) in a dark, level, slow-running current, to Inchinnan 
Bridge. The Dubbs is the ^low meadow-stream flowing from Kil- 
birnie Loch to Lochwinnoch or Castlesemple Loch. Tha Auld* 
house-burn and Brockburn are feeders of the White Cart* The 
latter flows from the Brother Loch in Meams. The Levern is 
also a feeder of the White Cart. It has its source in the Long 
Loch, in Neilston parish. Its direction is first north, thep north- 
east, and finally from Croflhead to the east It enters the 
Abbey parish, after leaving Neilston, a little west of Hurlet, and 
finally falls, as before stated, into White Cart. The Leverp is a 
rivulet of considerable breadth and flow, and in many parts of its 
course from the south-east, exhibits scenes of '' sequestered and 
even romantic beauty.'** In the lower and mercantile districts, like 
all the principal waters in Renfrewshire, it becomes the drudge of 
machinery. Dovecothall, and a host of auxiliaries, which may all 
be termed Levemani, such as Gateside, Broadlie, Arthurlie, and 
Crofthead Mills are dependent on its waters. The Gryfe 
has its Gryfe Grove-Mill, Gryfe-Mill, and Crosslie-Mill, with 
several other works on the Houston-burn. Johnstone is iden- 
tified with the Black Cart, and Paisley with the White Cart. 
Various streams, such as Espedair and Alt* Patrick, proceed 
from the braes south of Paisley, and lose themselves in the lar- 



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COUNTY OF RENFREW. 539 

ger currents. The lakes are of two sorts, natural and arti&cial. 
Castlesemple Loch or Lochwinnoch is a fine sheet of water, 
beautifully situated and ornately embellished by the exteusive and 
tasteful scenery, natural and artificial, connected with the gardens 
and pleasure-grounds of Castlesemple. The Bar Loch is now 
nearly drained, and in dry warm summers bears excellent crops of 
oats and hay. In moist wet seasons, and after heavy rains, it is, 
however, still apt to be flooded. Long Loch, in Neilston, besides 
giving birth to the celebrated Levern, is the feeder also of the re- 
servoirs at Comare and Hairlaw. Cawpla Loch depends as much 
upon the accidental supplies it receives from the clouds, as from 
its native springs and other external resources — overflowing in 
winter and wet seasons, but shrinking in its dimensions in the 
droughts of summer. Loch Libo is a small sheet of water, of an 
oval form, encompassed with lofty hills, with ancient forests nod- 
ding to the water's edge. The lakes in Mearns are by no means 
picturesque. The artificial sheets of water in this county form a 
striking and peculiar feature. The most remarkable of these is 
the Shaws Water-works, so fully described in the account of the pa-« 
rish of Greenock. The source of this great reservoir is the Shaws 
Water, a small streamlet, eschewing Inchinnan Bridge, uniting 
with other streams used to fall into the sea between Ardgowan 
House and the town of Innerkip. For a complete account of 
this great and difficult undertaking, resulting- in converting a tiny 
stream pursuing an idle and useless career into an enormous water* 
power, we again refer to the very full and satisfactory account fur- 
nished in this work by Dr Macfarlane. The following are some of 
the principal artificial reservoirs in Renfrewshire, with the num- 
ber of acres covered by each ; 

Sbaws Water, 
Neilston, 

Eaglesham, 

(_ Binend Lodhi 

699 
Besides the above, several large dams, leads, and smaller re- 
servoirs, &c. cover about 200 acres more. The country almost 
everywhere Abounds with excellent springs of water, except in 
some places towards the sea shore, where it is brackish. The 
^' Aboon the Brae," in Neilston, is a remarkable spring, yielding 



( Great reservoir, 
I CoiDpensation do. 


295 imperial acres. 


40 


i Hairlaw do. 


72 


• Ci>inare do. 


16 


( Kirkton, Walton, &c. 


40 


r Picketlaw and Kirkton, 


26 


J Dunwan, Greenfield, ^kc. 


64 


i Dunwan. Blackwood, &c. 


96 


(_ Binend Lodh, 


50 



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540 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

about 22, 146,200 'imperial gallons per annum. In the glebe at 
Eastwood, there is also a spring which discharges about 1 i impe- 
rial pints per minute. There is a remarkably strong spring in a 
bank, a little west .from Barr Castle, Lochwinnoch. When first 
hit upon, in some mining operations, it sprung like a vein when 
touched by a lancet, and rose several feet into the air. It is now 
subjected to the control of a water*pump. There is a saline spring 
at Candren, near Linwood village, on the right banks of the Cart, 
of a saline nature, which Dr Lyall endeavoured to write into re* 
pute. At present, however, it is held in small estimation. There 
is a spring strongly impregnated with the carbonate and sulphate 
of lime, on the banks of the Liocher in Kilbarchan, which yields 
beautiful petrifactions, or incrustations of vegetables with lime. 
The two mineral springs in Eaglesham, the one at Menzie Hill, 
the other at Bonninton,have long been famous, but in the opinions 
of the best judges much overrated. There are numerous cas* 
cades among the hills, but none of them deserving particular no- 
tice. The fall of the White Cart, above Seedhill Bridge, is loo 
urban to be picturesque. 

Geology and Mineralogy, — This is a large subject in such a 
county as Renfrewshire, but it is one of great moment Having 
lately drawn up the account of the geology of Lanarkshire for the 
Highland and Agxicultural Society of Scotland, and having also 
paid some attention to the geology of Dumbartonshire and Stir- 
lingshire, we may take the experience acquired in these analogous, 
and yet in some respects very different and diversified fields of re- 
search as a key to the geology of the county of Renfrew. 
That we may be enabled to throw as much light as possible on 
this very dark and intricate branch of inquiry, we will try it first 
on the large scale, and in connection with the geology of the 
neighbouring districts, and then we shall be prepared to master 
more effectually its details. The relative position of the county 
of Renfrew, in the geological map of Scotland, is the north-west 
corner of the great coal-field of Scotland, which runs from north- 
east to south-west from the Frith oT Forth to the Frith of Clyde. 
The trap or whin connected with it runs through Lanarkshire, 
Ayrshire, and in a thin line along by Stirling to St Abb's Head. 
It is needless, therefore, to consider Renfrewshire as an isolated 
field. It is a part of a great whole, and is united to Chat whole by 
many links and connections, seen and unseen. Dr Fleming, in a 
paper on the " Mineralogy of the Redhead" in Angusshire, iu the 

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COUNTY OF RENFREW. 64 1 

Wernerian Transactions, read February 1816, has these remarks: 
" The fact of the red sandstone being the fundamental rock of the 
coal-field of the Forth was first pointed out to me by Mr Bald." 
From researches in Lanarkshire, Dumbartonshire, and Renfrew- 
shire, it appears also to be a demonstrable fact, that the old red- 
stone is the foundation of the coal-field both of Renfrewshire and 
Lanarkshire, and, moreover, these coal-fields,. although in diOer-^ 
ent counties, are one. Of this red sandstone or foundation rock 
there are two formations, one, the oldest, rests immediately on grey- 
•wacke or. granitic rocks, the other on mountain limestone. There is 
no mountain limestone in Clydesdale or Renfrewshire; but whether 
they might or might not have been there, are questions not so easily 
answered. The limestone above alluded to of both sorts may be ab- 
sent, and then the two sandstone formations will come to rest on each 
other, or the newer or the older formations may be wanting, and 
from those and other circumstances it may be difficult to distinguish 
the one from the other. The red sandstone here is unques- 
tionably of the older formation, or that which rests on the older 
rocks, chiefly greywacke. The great coal field between the two 
friths is flanked with it completely on the northern boundary, 
and in the south, although it only appears in continuous patches, 
yet we have sufilcient proof that it is there, and that it is the 
foundation rock of our coalfields. But there is no need of trust- 
ing to general principles to establish particular facts. From ocu- 
lar demonstration we can show, that the Lanarkshire and Renfrew- 
shire coal-basins are one, and that this great field, which may be 
termed independent, rests in its lower members on the old red 
sandstone. This latter formation in this district begins at Largs 
in Ayrshire, runs directly north along that coast and the sea coast 
of Renfrew to Port Glasgow, where it is cut off by the presence of 
the whin or trap rocks. At Ardrossan, however, it comes imme- 
diately into contact with the south-western extremity of the great 
coalfield of Ayrshire, and here there is a junction of the two for- 
mations first noticed by Dr Fleming of Aberdeen in 1807. The 
old red sandstone strata here stretch nearly north and south, and 
dip to the east at an angle of about ^0^ Over these strata of red 
sandstone are deposited beds of white coloured sandstone, slate-cIay, 
limestone, slate, coal, clay-ironstone, and greenstone, or, in other 
words, the lower members of the independent coal formation. 
These are unconformable as they stretch from east to west and dip 
to the south. The Doctor observed, that <^ near the line of 



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54.2 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

junction, fhd newer strata are much inclined, but tbey sip- 
proach nearer to the horizontal position as they recede frotti 
the red sandstone/' This is a precious disclosure, and such 
as very seldom occurs to gratify the inquisitiTe researches of the 
geological inquirer. In connejcion ^ith this district, but com*- 
pletely at the opposite side of its coal measures, in the south-east, 
,we find the independent coal formation lying often in the hollows 
of what the Wernerians term the transition rocks, as at Sanquhar 
and Chapel-hill neat Moffat, and in various places besides. Ad- 
hering still in our inquiries to the foundation rocks in Lanark- 
shire, we may state that the old red sandstone is cut off from im- 
mediate apparent contact with the coal fields, by immense ridges 
of porphyry, which run from the Clyde at Carfio through Lesma- 
hagow to Auchrobert. This porphyry and the old red sandstone 
often come into contact and even alternate. This renders it ex** 
tremely difficult to observe the point of contact between the lower 
members of the coal measures and the old red sandi^tone* Iti 
Renfrewshire, there is an immense interval between the bottom of 
the coal measures and the old red sandstone, and this interval is 
entirely filled up by igneous rocks of various sorts. The porphyry 
here chiefly forms the highest hills, such as Misty Law, Hill of 
Staike, and Queenside Hill. The outskirt of the porphyry here 
is much intersected by dikes of greenstone, and is occasionally 
also intersected by veins of the sulphate of barytes, as in Lanark- 
shire. The porphyry and whin, as connected with and cutting off 
the coal measures from the old red sandstone here, have their 
counterparts very strikingly developed in the county of Lanark. 
These preliminaries being settled and set aside, we now come to 
the coal measures. With regard to the coalfield of Renfrewshire, 
there can be no doubt but that it forms the lowest member or mem- 
bers of the great coal field stretching between the old red sandstone 
at Lanark and Douglas, and the old red sandstone with its barrier 
of porphyry along the Frith of the Clyde in Renfrew. In this wide 
compass there are twodistinct coal fields, the one lying on the top of 
the other. The higher coal field has for its basis the first band of lime* 
stone rock. The lower coal is that which alternates with numerous 
bands of limestone, till both limestone and coal are found lying od 
the transition or older rocks* The upper coal is confined entire* 
ly to Lanarkshire, or if it enters Renfrewshire at all, it is for a 
short distance about Cathcart and Langside, or with an apex near 
to Strabungo. The Lanarkshire coal-field to the south, and that 

6 



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COUNTY OF RENFREW. 643 

in Ayrshire at Muirkirk, in all respects resemble the Renfrewshire 
coal-field. No person who has paid attention to the coals in the bot- 
tom or among the lower members of the limestone formation at Pon- 
feich, Glespin, Auchenbeg, and Brokley, can fail to identify them 
with the coal-fieMs at Hurlet, How-wood, and Bridge of Weir. It 
is true no limestone is found at Quarrelton, Garpel, Kerse,and some 
other places where coal is found in Renfrewshire. But this proves 
nothing. As well might we assert, that because the ten principal 
seams of coal in the upper coal-field are not found eyery where 
in the middle ward of Lanarkshire, that there the upper coals 
are not all to be found. Members which, taken as a whole, are 
necessary for completing the integrity of a particular formation, 
are not found in all places in that formation. The absence of 
limestone in some instances seems to have greatly staggered the opir 
nions of Mr Montgomery, but unnecessarily ; and certainly there 
is no ground for the remark, ^< Although that part of Scotland 
where coal is found is often called from that circumstance, the 
coal-field of Scotland, yet the name is in one sense ill applied ; 
for it is apt to convey an erroneous impression of its being one 
continuous coal-field ; whereas in reality it is composed of nume- 
rous coal-fields, lying within a certain tract or zone.'' This is part- 
ly true, and partly not. Almost every coal-field has some pecu- 
liarity, some member or members superfluous, and some deficient. 
But, notwithstanding, there is a connection between distant Gelds. 
To give the general theory here, we may remark, that, supposing 
we were to bore in the centre of the upper coal-field, we would, af- 
ter piercing through the coal metals in the upper formation, come to 
the coals connected with the limestone; and were we to penetrate to 
the bottom of that lowei' formation, we would reach the field of 
which the Renfrewshire coals are a continuation on the one hand, 
and those of the upper ward of Lanarkshire, a regular and continu* 
ous extension on the other. It is where the whole of these coal me- 
tals are cropping out, that we come into contact with them at Pon- 
feich and Hurlet. Having established the relative positions of the 
coals of Renfrewshire, it may save much idle research and super- 
fluous ejcpense, to assure the landlords and proprietors of property 
in that county, that it is in vain to attempt to find the upper La- 
narkshire seams of coal in Renfrewshire. They are all run out be- 
fore reaching them. Wherever posts of limestone are found, we are 
quite in another field. The coal-field of Renfrewshire extends 
from near Bishopton, along the Clyde, till beyond Glasgow ; a dis- 

RENFREW. N U 



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541 GENERAL OBSBBVATIONS OTi THE 

tance of about sixteen miles. It is cut oflF entirely from the Ayrshire 
field by the whin which extends from Beith to Stanley, but fonnstwo 
very narrow stripes or necks at Castle Semple and How-wood, and 
the village of Neilston and Head of Side, From these two points 
the coal-6eld is about ten miles broad, and in the middle between 
Stanley and the Clyde only six or seven. To give a general idea 
of its extent and limits, it extends from near Bishopton till near 
the source of the Black Cart, and from thence in an undulating 
line till a point a little north of Mearns Kirk, and then keeps 
•the boundaries of the shire northward to the Clyde. Beyond these 
limits, there is no coal in Renfrewshire. There is one peculiarity 
in the coal-fields of this extensive district, viz. in the trap-beds 
which in many instances overlie the coals, especially towards the 
south-western wing of the coal-field. This peculiarity is more appa- 
rent here than in most other districts, particularly in the Johnstone 
coal-field. This has not escaped the notice of MM. Defrenoy and 
Elie de Beaumont in the ** Voyage Metallurgiqueen Angleterre.'* 
Mr Bald, in the " Memoirs of the Wernerian Natural History So- 
ciety," Vol. iii* p. 187, says, " We can only remark here, that in the 
Johnstone coal-field the upper stratum of rock is compact green- 
stone, above 100 feet in thickness, not in conforming position with 
the coals, but over-lying ; then a few fathoms of soft sandstone and 
slate-clay, alternating and uncommonly soft." Under this in one 
place there are no fewer than two beds of coal lying immediately the 
one above the other. There are also ten beds of coal at the bottom 
of the limestone series at Ponfeich in Clydesdale ; a strong proof 
that these are the same coals edging out at the north and south 
sides of the same great coal-field. Mr Bald gives two sections of 
the Quarrelton coal in the work above cjuoted, to which we refer, 
and also two vertical sections of the same field. The occurrence 
of greenstone in the coal-measures was some forty years ago look- 
ed upon as an extraordinary circumstance, so much so that some 
geologists were inclined, from an appearance so unexpected, to in- 
clude the whole series of strata that accompanied these beds under 
the floetx-trap formation of Werner. At the kirk of Shotts, 
coal is found below trap; it is plentifully mixed up with the 
coal measures in some parts of the New Monkland coal-field ; and 
limestone is wrought below it near Kilmarnock. The descriptions 
of the various collieries in this county will be found under the ac- 
counts of the several parishes. We particularly r^r to the ar- 
ticle Paisley, for some very interesting and valuable information on 
this subject. 



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COUKTT Olf BBNFREW. 545 

RoekSf 4^.-— The coal measures occupy all the north-eastern di- 
vision of the county ; the old red sandstone girdles it on the sea- 
shore from Kelly bridge to Port- Glasgow; all the rest are traps 
or igneous rocks of Tartous descriptions. If a line be drawn 
from the Clocb Lighthouse to the extremity of £aglesham» a dis- 
tance of about thirty- one miles, the whole is of the whin formation. 
The thickest part of the old red sandstone is between Kelly bridge 
and the Ck>ch. Between the sea shore at Inoerkip and the 
Shaws-waier reservoirs it is about five miles broad ; but from Kern- 
poch Point to Port-Glasgow, it is a mere stripe. Dunrod hill and 
the heights behind Gourock, are of trap, but much surrounded by 
the old red sandstone^ A very good description is given of this 
sandstone in the old account of Greenock, which, from its simpli- 
city and truth, we cannot refrain from quoting : *' Along the coast^ 
freestone, mostly of a red colour, ^nd sometimes beautifully varie- 
gated with regular spots of a light-gray colour, occasionally inter- 
mixed with a great variety of what is called sea-pebble, (conglo- 
merate )« of different shapes and hues, is most common. The stra- 
ta of this stone on the shore, and a great way above it, as if the 
vaults of caverns below them had some time failed, are very irre- 
gular, scarcely ever horizontal, but dipping or inclining at different 
angles in every direction, and chiefly towards the south/' Perhaps 
the whole formation which, in this treatise, we term old red sandstone, 
might as well be termed conglomerate, although the term is gene- 
rally applied to that sort which Mr Reid, with no pretensions to 
science, describes very graphically as ** occasionally intermixed with 
a great variety of what is called sea-pebble of different shapes and 
hues." The entire formation is in fact a conglomerate, either 
granular or rolled. The fine granular is composed of quartz, 
felspar, and mica minutely aggregated, in some varieties without 
a base, and in others with a cement of clay. The rolled conglo- 
merate is a fragmentary rock, containing angular pieces and rolled 
masses of quartz, felspar, greywacke, clay-slate, jasper, flint-slate, 
&C. The rolled conglomerate is seen to great advantage in the 
parish of West Kilbride, in those remarkable eminences composed 
of porphyry flanked by conglomerate, termed the Three Sisters, 
The fine granular is the most common, but, if carefully examined, 
it will be found everywhere to contain large quartz balls, smooth 
and rounded like ^* sea-pebble«," showing it to be all one forma- 
tion. Indeed, the old red sandstone and its adjuncts are emi- 
nently Iregmentary. Even the limestone which is occasionally 



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546 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

found in its cliffs and flanks at Innerkip and Gourock, is hot 
so much a calcareous tuffa as a limestone conglomerate. A 
deposit resembling that at Innerkip, occurs near the Rumbling 
Bridge, in the county of Perth. It was mentioned long ago by 
a competent authority, that in the steep banks of some of the 
numerous rivulets from the hills along the Renfrewshire coast, 
and in a thick bed of schistus, there appears a ^^ thin seam of 
limestone, divided into pieces about the siEe of a man's head, and of 
excellent quality." These as they fall (for the expense of ground 
and labour would far exceed their value) are carefully collected, 
and used with good effect by the attentive farmer. The old red 
sandstone or conglomerate is penetrated almost everywhere by 
dikes, consisting of greenstone, often highly crystalline, amygdaloid, 
wacke, porphyry, and trap-tuff. A particular description of that 
sort of wacke termed osmond-stone will be found in the account 
of Eaglesham. From Clune Brae till near Bishopton, the shore 
of the Clyde is of trap rocks. The highest hills in the county 
are, however, of porphyry, such as Misty Law, Statk Hill, and 
Queenside Hill. In this last hill, there is a vein of the sulphate 
of barytes, as before stated, and, according to Mr Montgomery, a 
^< well-de6ned dike of a peculiar kind of porphyry passes through 
the common porphyry." The porphyry is mostly flanked with 
greenstone. Generally speaking, the highest lands in the most 
hilly districts of Renfrewshire are composed of igneous rocks, in- 
cluding the parishes of Lochwinnoch, Innerkip, Greenock, Kil- 
malcolm, Houston, and Kilbarchan. Werner long ago observed 
that trap hills are well calculated, by reason of their naked sur- 
faces and compact texture, to attract and condense vapour, and 
from their numerous perpendicular rents, and the bed of clay on 
which they usually rest, to conduct the condensed vapour to form 
springs. In many parts of this county, the whin lies on the tran* 
sition and other rocks in the form of mountain caps. Workmen 
in Lanarkshire term this '< floating whin." At Dunrod hill the 
old red sandstone is covered with trap; this is frequently the case 
about Greenock, and in some places dikes of greenstone spread 
over the same formation. Trap covers the coal formations in the 
north of New Monkland, and here it is observed that the rains 
penetrate the trap, and the springs all burst from the freestone 
rocks below. This is perhaps one of the causes why Renfrew- 
shire is so well replenished everywhere with lakes, rivers, streams, 
and springs of water. Some time ago, a good deal of money was 



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COUNTY OF RENFREW. - 547 

spent about Greenock in a vain attempt to procure coal. There 
is certainly no coal nearer Greenock than Garpel in Lochwinnocb, 
which forms the north-west wing of the Ayrshire coal-field, and 
is entirely separated from the Renfrewshire field by the trap, and 
the nearest point of the carboniferous group in the county is the 
Bridge of Weir. All the country to the west of Bisbopton» 
Bridge of Weir, the villages of Kilbarchan and How-wood, is 
trap, with the exception of Garpel, as above stated. There is 
certainly a mistake in treating the trap as a sedimentary or strati- 
fied rock, and in representing it lying as jf stratified above and 
below the coal. measures. It appears pretty obvious that the trap 
is newer than all the coal measures ; that is to say, the great body 
of the common whin of the coal-fields in Ayr, Lanark, and Ren- 
frew shires. If any person doubts this, he may have his scruples 
removed and his doubts dissipated at Dechmont-hill, near Cam- 
buslang, where he will see that enormous mass of igneous rock 
tearing up the carboniferous strata of the newest sort on the north 
and south, the rocks on both of these sides of the hill dipping 
away from it, contrary to their natural dip at a high angle. The 
trap rocks at Ballageich and Dunwan in Eaglesham reach an 
elevation of 1000 feet; the porphyry at Misty. Law 1200; but the 
greatest elevation of the coal measures at High Craig, near John- 
stone, is scarcely 240 feet. The dip of the conglomerate is gene- 
rally to the north, but often north-east, and occasionally south 
and south-east* 

OreSf (J-c.'-^The green carbonate of copper or mountain-green 
of Schmeiser and Kirwan, has been found in the red sandstone 
near to Gourock, in small granular particles dispersed through th^ 
stone. It was wrought for some time, but without, the least pro- 
spect of success, and after some money was expended, was aban- 
doned. A carbonate of copper has also been noticed at Kaime in 
greenstone. Ironstone is chiefly found about Kilbarchan, Houston, 
and Johnstone, and along the White Cart and Levern, and at 
Blackball, near Paisley. It is, however, an entirely different for- 
mation from that which is found among the upper coals, in the 
Lanarkshire fields. The Dalkeith coal-Geld, for example, is 
nearly destitute of iron, and so is that of Newcastle. The iron 
found here is that alternating with lime ; and from the above 
authority, such is the position in which its principal beds are 
found. 

The geological position of Renfrewshire is so far favourable ; but 



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548 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

where are her blast furnaces ? Perhaps the new iron-works of Dairy 
will test both the extent and quality of iron that are to be found 
in the neighbouring fields. Notwithstanding occasional boastings 
about the extent of the Renfrewshire supply of iron, it seems pro* 
bable that this country will never be notable for its manufactures 
in iron ; and even its coal is not of the very best quality, although 
in many respects excellent. 

Simple Minerals found in Rocks. — In the parishes of Paisley, 
Neilston, and Lochwinnoch, there is an amygdaloidal porphyry, 
forming a sort of table-land, eight or nine square miles in extent, 
very rich in zeolites. The same sort of rock occurs in the upper 
ward of Lanarkshire, about Edmiston and other places, chiefly 
to the west. The simple minerals found in Renfrewshire are 
most abundant about Hartfield, near Paisley. These are most- 
ly ^* calcareous spar, aragonite, stilbite, chabasite, &c. and occa- 
sionally large cavities occur lined with prehnite in reniform and 
botryoidal forms, of a green or straw colour, sometimes smooth, 
and in other instances crystallized on the surface. Preh- 
nite, too, is frequently found imbedded in, or constituting an 
integral part of the rock." Some remarks on the prehnite of 
Hartfield moss will be found in the account of Neilston. The 
very able writer of that account, however, makes one remark 
which must be corrected, where he says, ^ prehnite is not found 
in any other parish in the west of Scotland known to iis." For the 
accuracy of this work, it is but right to say that it occurs plentiful- 
ly on the Kilpatrick hills. A white prehnite is found in Loch- 
winnoch ; it also occurs in Abbey parish. Paisley. We refer to 
the table of minerals found in Lochwinnoch parish as at once cu- 
rious and valuable. The red foliated stilbite at Clovenstane in 
that parish, and several others, are very interesting. The {larish 
of Kilmalcolm is famous for its chabasite and yellow stilbite. 
Needlestone, analcime, and other similar minerals, also extend to 
the parish of Erskine. In the light-blue-coloured por|>byry forming 
Kempoch point, there is found brown-siiar, fluor-spar^ the oxide 
of manganese, and small rock crystals. Near the village of Kil- 
barchan, specimens of white carnelian were found in claystone, con- 
nected with a remarkable rock consisting of pieces of chalcedony 
united by an argillaceous cement 

Zoology, — The following is a list of the principal whales and 
fishes found in the Clyde, and its frith or estuary. 



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COUNTY OF RENFREW. 



549 



CxtACBA. 

Halsnoptera musculus 
Uelphinus orca 

,.-^ melas 

... , Phocoena 

Physeter microps 

Cartilaginous Fishes. 
PetrooiyaoQ marinuR 
........ «.«»..„ fiuviatilis 

Squalue mazimue 
Mustelus licvis 
Spinax acanthias 
Raia clayata « 

batis 

Acipenaer sturio 

Osseous Fishes. 
Syngnathus actis 
.-^ .,.,^»^,^, typble 

MALAcomaTOious Fishxs. 

Salmo salar 



Salmo &rio 
Osmerus eperlanus 
Coregonus lavaretus 
Clupea harengus 

.■..-. alosa? 

£wx lucius 
Leuciscus rutilus 

„.».. ■>, phoxinus 

Gobitis barbatula 
Liparia vulgaris 
Cyclopteras lumpus 
Morbua vulgaris 

* aegiefinus 

MoWa vulgaris 
' Gadus tricirratus 
Merlangus vulgaris 

> pollacbius 

I ..».., carbonarius 

Pleoronectes maxitnus 

I., ■ rbombus 

Platessa vulgaris 
»««..flesus 



Platesaa microctphalus 
Uippoglossus vulgaris 
Anguilla vulgaris 

conger 

Ammodytes tobianus 

Ac A NTiiorrxaYGious 
Fishes. 
Pbolis laevia 
Gunnclus vulgaris 
>,..^., ..,..■.. viviparus 
CailionyiDUS lyra 
Crenilabrus tinea 
Pagrus vulgaris 
Perca fluviatilia 
Cataphractus Schoneveldii 
Cottus scorpimis 
Mugil cepbalus 
Atherina hepsetus 
Scomber vulgaris 
......,...,..., thynnus 

Gasterostcus pungitius 



The molluscous or shell-fish animals are too numerous to be 
repeated. The principal fisheries are the Gadusidae^ including 
cod^ ling, and haddock ; Salmonidae^ including chiefly salmon and 
sea-trout ; ClupeadtBy the most prolific of all, including chiefly 
herring ; ScomberoidcBf including mackerel, only in particular 
places ; Raiadm^ including rays and skates, only occasional or ac« 
cidental ; AnguilladiB — the eel and conger — scarcely made use of 
in this district of country. Mr Wallace of Kelly has done much 
for the salmon-fisheries of the Clyde. 

Botany* — Under this head, it will only be necessary to mentioa 
a few of the rarer plants, with their habitats. 

Hippuris vulgaris, Locbxvinnoch Loch CEnantb« pimpinelloidcs, shores of tlie 

' - - - ' Frith 

Polygonum Bistorts, below Greenock 
Paris quadrifulia, Cathcart Idill 
Andromeda polifoIi<i, Paisley Moss 
Cotyledon umbilicus, Renfrewshire Coast 



Sherardia arvensis, Cathcart Castle 
Radiola mUlegraua, Rarr Loch 
Convolvulus arvensis, Cathcart 
Campanula hederacea, Greenock 
Verbascum Thapsus, Clyde below Elen- 

frew 
Hyoscyamus niger, Cathcart 
Atropa BelladoDa, On White Cart 
Samolus valeraiidi» Renfrewshire Coast 
SiKon verticillatum, about Greenock 
CEnanthe fistulosa, shores of the Frith 



Rubus suberectus, between Govan and 

Renfrew 
Rubus saxstilis, about Greenock 
Nymphaea alt>a, fresh -water locha 
Bartsia viscosa, Greenock Battery 
Lathraea Squamarin, Cathcart Castle. 

Civil History. — This shire was separated from Lanark by Robert 
III. who died 1406. The early authentic history of Renfrewshire is 
intimately connected in all its principal features and leading eventSt 
with the history of the descendants of the first of the Stewarts, 
Walter, the son of Allan, who fled from Shropshire in England, 
into Scotland, in the troublous times of Maud and Stephen. 
Chalmers, with bis usual industry and accuracy, has traced the 



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550 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

early history of that high and fortunate family, and has established 
it, as in the case of the Douglasses, on the *^ evidence of charters." 
Much information will also be collected on this subject in Craw«- 
furd's History of Renfrewshire, and in Andrew Stewart's General 
History of the Stewarts. It appears that, up to the era of David L 
in the twelfth century, this district was chiefly inhabited by 
Celts, from whom, according to the chartulary of Glasgow, the 
King obtained an annual kane of swine, and other animals ; a Celtic 
tax, payable to the sovereign or the superior, by the occupiers of 
land. Next to the arrival and planting of the sons of Allan in the 
district of Renfrew and Stragryffe, was the settlement by Walter, 
in 1164, of a colony of Cluniac monks from Wenlock in Shrop- 
shire, who became the founders of the Abbey of Paisley ; and car- 
ried with them from the south into these regions of Celtic rude- 
ness and barbarity, the light of knowledge, and the influences of 
religion and morality. One of the earliest monuments of these 
times was a mount or tumulus, between Renfrew and Paisley, sur-» 
rounded by a fosse at the base, and having an upright stone on its 
summit, said to be the spot where Somerled fell, a ruthless sea- 
king, who arrived in the Clyde in the same year as the monks, and 
landing at Renfrew, fought, and fell by the hands of the heroes of 
Stragryffe. It is probable that the people of this district had a 
task to perform, not less formidable, and equally hazardous, when 
in 1263, under the banners of Alexander, the Steward of Scotland, 
they marcbed against the Norwegians under their leader, Haco, 
at the Largs, and gallantly drove the haughty invaders back into 
the sea. In 1296, when Edward L of England attempted, partly 
by intrigue, and partly by force of arms, to deprive Scotland of her 
regal independence, a great many individuals in the barony of 
Renfrew swore fealty to him ; but the noble and distinguished 
family of Stewart always adhered to the Bruce. From the par- 
liamentary records, it appears that property was so much depre«> 
ciated by the troublous and unsettled state of the country, that 
Renfrew '< per verum valorem" was then only estimated at L.5d5, 
9s. 8d* Among those who swore fealty to Edward were ^* John 
Hunter of the forest of Paisley ; Hugh the Hunter of Stragryffe; 
Richard the Hunter of Stragryffe; Thomas the Brewster of the 
forest of Paisley ; Thomas the Wright of the Blackball ; John 
Petit of Mearns; and William Knightesson of EgHsham." The 
lords of the barony of Renfrew in 1371 gave a king to Scotland 
ia the persoo of Robert II. His successor, Robert III. erected 



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COUNTY OF RENFllEW. 551 

the barouy into a principality in 1405, which, with some other 
lands, was granted in free regality during the life of his son. The 
tenures of land in this county were only changed from ward to 
blench after the 25th of March 1748. The battle of Langside 
in 1568 was another trying period for the people of Renfrewshire, 
who naturally felt an interest in the cause of the Stewarts, of 
whom Defoe in his Caledonia thus sings, > 

Stewart, ancient as the hills from which they sprung ; 
The mountains still do to the name belong i 
Fromlience they branch to every high degree, 
And foreign oouits embrace the progeny. 

The Castle of Crookstone in this county is intimately connected 
with the history and fate of Mary Queen of Scots. Wilson in 
his Clyde thus happily groups some of the most striking circum- 
stances connected with that royal lady's first and last abode in her 
ancestorial domains in the west. The passage is so beautiful and 
striking, and the poem being somewhat scarce, we the more rea* 
dily submit it to the perusal of the reader. 

*' By Crookstone Castle waves the still green yew. 
The 6r8t that met the Royal Mary's view. 
Where, bright in charms, the youthful Princess led 
The graceful Darnley to her throne and bed : 
Embossed in silver, now, its branches green 
Transcend the myrtle of the Paphian queen. 

But dark Langside, from Crookstone viewed afar, 
Still seems to range in pomp the rebel war. 
Here, when the moon rides dimly through the sky, 
The peasant sees broad dancing standards fly. 
And one bright female form, with sword and crown, 
Still grieves to view her banners beaten down.*' 

During the reign of Mary's son, the inhabitants of the barony, in 
common wiUi many, or perhaps all of the western counties, partook 
of the insecurity and inconveniences connected with these turbulent 
and unsettled times. In the printed Acts of Parliament, we find 
that, on the 29th June 1598^ the inhabitants of Renfrew, Bute, 
Dumbarton, and Carrick, were summoned by proclamation to 
meet at the town of Dumbarton, concerning <* the disobedience of 
the inhabitants of Kyntyre and uthris partis of lies and Heelan- 
dis of this realme, committing vyie and beestlie murthur, slaugh- 
teris, reifi^, thift, open herschipps, oppressionis and depredationis, 
upon the hail inhabitantis of countries next adjacent.'* And, as if 
their personal services and bodily presence at Dumbarton had 
not been enough, all having an yearly rent of 300 merks in heri- 
tage, or annual rent, if residing within the above districts, are or- 
dered to furniftb the King with ^< feir of weir, with schippis, cre« 



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552 GENEBAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

avis, boittis, and all utberis veschellts and provisioun requisite for 
transporting them to saidis Heelandis/' In 1617, the lairds of 
Pollock Maxwell, and Cast lem ilk were commissioners to Parlia- 
ment for the barony, and William Somerville for the burgh of 
Renfi-ew. In 16d«3, in the reign of Charles L, domestic troubles, 
and popular complaints, seem to form the predominating features 
of the times. In a curious paper, where the inhabitants of Dun* 
dee complain of the great extortion used in ** exacting a ladell full 
of all kynd of victuall, grund and ungrund, presented to the mer- 
cat, Dundie having no definite measure or quantUie^ whilk is ane 
heavie oppressioun," and where Maister David Wedderbourne, 
*^ Maister of the Grammar Skole Aberdeine,'^ desires that his 
<* short and facile grammar may be ordained to be taught through 
Scotland," a band of genuine corn-law repealers frf»m Renfrewshire 
came into the field of action with as much confidence, and nearly the 
same sort of arguments used by their genuine descendants to the 
same localities at the present day. The repealers of 1633 came 
to Parliament with a petition and complaint, in which they sug- 
gest that ^* All actes and impositiones maid and imposit for re- 
straining and inbringing of victual may be dischairged, it being 
without example in any part of the world, and soe much the more 
that the haille scberifiTdomes of Dumbartoune, Renfreu, &c. are not 
able to enterteine thamselfles in the most plenteful zeirs that ever 
fell out without supplie from foraine parts. And seeing victual is 
become the greatest comoditie now in Europe, that it may be de- 
claired lawful to merchands to import the samyne frielie within this 
kingdom at all times without any imposition." About the same 
period, the fisheries of Renfrew seem to have been i<pportant, as 
we find them mentioned and designated among the ^^ loches, 
frithes, and bayes," reserved to the natives for fishing. So early 
as 1641, the people of the burgh of Renfrew began to look with 
a jealous eye on the rival pretensions of the town of Greenock. 
In the above year, the provost, bailies, council, and community of 
Renfrew, understanding that John Shaw of Greenock is to obtain 
in this Parliament a ratification of his iufeftment for erecting Green- 
ock into a burgh of barony, ** doe protest that any ratificatione 
be grantit."' The protestation was taken by John Spruill, com- 
missioner to Parliament for Renfrew. Renfrewshire suffered con- 
siderably during the covenanting times. In 1662, Mr John Nor- 
ry, and Alexander Dunlop, minister of Paisley, were banished. 
A few years after, the clergy began to inveigh publickly against 



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COUNTY OP RENFREW. 563 

the king in their sermons and prayers, and the people often met 
at conventicles. About the end of the year 1676, a memorable 
event befell Renfrewshire in common with the other western dis- 
tricts of Scotland, when the Highland Host was let loose among 
them to live at free quarter. Cleland in his poems forcibly de- 
scribes the all-devouring rapacity of this famous Celtic Host, so 
well represented by the Pandours and Cossacks of more modern 
times. He says, 

They durk our tenants, shame our wives, 

And we're in hazard of our lives ; 

They plunder horse, and them they loaden 

With coverings, blankets, sheets, and plaiden, 

With hoodcn gray, and worsted stuff; 

They sell our tongs for locks orsnuflf: 

They take our cultors and our soaks. 

And from our doors they pull the locks : 

They leave us neither shools nor spades, 

And takes away our iron in laids ; 

They break our ploughs even when they're working ; 

We dare not hinder them for durking. 

My lords-! they so harass and wrong us 

There's scarce a pair of shoes among us ; 

And for blue bonnets they leave non 

That they can get their clauts upon. 

If any dare refuse to give them, 

They durk them, strips them, and so leaves them. 

They ripe for arms, but all they find. 

Is arms wiih them, leaves nought behind. 

The Presbyterians, on the other hand, had their poetical foes, 
who inveighed with abundant virulence against what they termed 
the <^ Souterkin of Reformation." In the Bellum Bothwellianum 
it is asserted that during the engagement 

Faraa refert, stolidi captum vertigine coetum 

Sublimem eriiissc crucem, de sorte futurU 

Non dubium, qua hostes posaet suspendere captos. 

Mr Andrew Guild, Colvile, and Meston, were the most promi- 
nent of the poets who were hostile to the cause of the Covenant. 
Mr Leyden somewhere remarks, that *^ it must have been a great 
satisfaction to a Presbyterian of the old school, to see so much 
virulence expressed in such bad language." In 1682, Mr Andrew 
Aitchison was appointed Sheriff of this county, for the express pur- 
pose of suppressing the Covenanters ; and in the following year 
several inhabitants and proprietors of some consequence were pro* 
secuted, fined, and brought into great trouble. About the end 
of the seventeenth century, this county was agitated and disgraced 
by the celebrated ** Impostor of Bargarran," the notorious Christ^ 
ian Shaw, daughter of John Shaw of Bargarran, who was the di- 



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554 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

rect cause or accessary to the legal murder of three men and four 
women,'who were tried, convicted, and executed, for the crime of 
witchcraft The people of Renfrewshire cordially fell in with the 
Revolution of 1688 ; but were hostile to the Union, the greatest 
blessing ever conferred on Scotland. Since that period, Renfrew- 
shire has been chiefly remarkable for the rapid strides she has 
made in arts and manufactures, in her foreign and domestic trade, 
her turnpikes, railways, her'harbours and shipping. Under these 
and other favourable combinations of causes and circumstances, the 
descendants of the ancient Celts, who, on the arrival of Walter, 
the son of Allan, among them had neither churches, castles, or 
charters for their lands, have now scarcely their equals any where 
for industry, skill, and the application of capital to trading and 
mercantile pursuits. At the present moment, however, a sad 
blight has come over Paisley and some of her most busy and en- 
terprising neighbours, such as Barrhead and Kilbarchan. In these 
three places alone the number of the unemployed amounts to not less 
than I4,ld& The individuals who feel the distress most are those 
connected with the shawl trade, and weavers of all descriptions. 
In Paisley 12,703 are entirely without employment ; in Kilbarchan 
976 ; and in Barrhead, 456. Many of the most respectable and 
influential houses in the manufacturing line in Paisley have stop- 
ped payment. Munificent donations from all parts of the country 
are pouring in for the relief of the present distress ; the latest is 
L. 1000, the product of a lady's bazar in Glasgow. To add to 
the distress, two bubble banks, termed savings banks, planned and 
puffed into repute by the present magistrates of Paisley, are now 
at a stand, by which the poor and industrious of the town and 
neighbourhood are in danger of losing about L. 19,000. The 
corporation of Paisley itself has become bankrupt. The debt at 
last balance was L. 43,086, 14s. 9d. ; and as matters now 
stand, the expenditure exceeds the income of the burgh by about 
L. 500 per annum. This does not include the last defalcations. 
In Paisley, out of twenty-seven respectable firms twenty failed ; 
and out of fifty-two houses, with but one head, thirty-six have 
failed, in all fifty-six failures. 

Population. — As few of the parochial accounts contain 4he po- 
pulation of the several parishes and principal towns, as taken up 
at the periodic census of 1841, the following tables will prove in- 
teresting : — 



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COUNTY OF RENFREW* 



555 



1791. 1801. 1811. 1821. 1881. 1841. 



Beith (part of,) 

Cathcart (part of,) - 

Dunlop (part of,) 

Eaglesham, 

Eastwood, - 

Erskine, . . - 

Goran (part of,) - 

Greenock, 

Houftton and Killellan, 

Incliinnan, 

Inncrkip, . - - 

Kilbarchan, 

Kilmalcolm. 

Loch win noch, 

Mearns, - - - 

Neilston, 

Paisley, - - - 

Paisley (Abbey,) - 

Port- Glasgow, 

Renfrew, 









67 


65 


45 


697 


1050 


1449 


1885 


2082 


2141 








68 


56 


76 


1000 


1176 


1424 


1927 


2872 


2428 


2642 


3375 


4845 


5676 


6854 


7965 


806 


847 


963 


973 


973 


1144 








550 


710 


1528 


15000 


17458 


19042 


22088 


27571 


38846 


1034 


1891 


2044 


2317 


2745 


2817 


306 


462 


641 


582 


642 


678 


1280 


1367 


1632 


2344 


2088 


3399 


2506 


3751 


3563 


4213 


4806 


5595 


951 


1130 


1474 


1600 


1618 


1616 


2613 


2955 


3514 


4130 


4515 


4706 


1430 


1714 


1941 


2295 


2814 


3088 


2330 


3796 


4949 


6549 


8046 


10577 


1:5800 


17026 


19987 


26428 


31460 


32f)82 


10792 


14146 


16785 


20575 


26206 


28381 


4036 


3865 


5116 


5262 


5192 


7377 


1628 


2031 


2305 


2648 


2a33 


3076 



62858 78056 92596 112175 133493 156075 
The population in 1841, of portions of Renfrewshire^ situated 
in the parish of Govan, not accurately ascertained, is given on the 
authority of a very respectable and able statist, John Wilson, Esq. 
of Thornly. The total population, according to the same autho« 
rity, is as above 158,075. It is proper, however, to remark, that 
according to another statement, which seems to be upon authority, 
the general population of the county in 1841 stands as follows : 
males, 72,725 ; females, 82,030 ; total, 154,755. Thus, taking 
the population in 1831 at 133,443, there is an increase in ten 
years of 15.9 per cent In Lanarkshire the increase during the 
same period was 34.8; in Dumbarton, 33.3; Clackmannan, 29.7; 
Forfar, 22; Wigton, 21.5; Selkirk, 16.9 per cent, so that Ren- 
frewshire is only seventh rate^ In Argyle, Dumfries, Hadding- 
ton, Kinross, Peebles, Perth, and Sunderland, there has been a 
small decrease in the number of inhabitants. Out of the above 
population, there were committed, during the year 1840, to prison 
for trial or bailed, 653^ of whom 440 were tried, 53 by the Cir- 
cuit Court of Justiciary at Glasgow ; 64 by sheriffs with a jury ; 
97 by sheriffs without a jury ; 158 by burgh magistrates ; 68 by 
Justices or other Courts ; convicted, outlawed, or insane, 394. 
There was no person executed belonging to the county during 
the above period. The total committals in Lanarkshire during 
the year 1840, was only 529, and in Edinburghshire 604. Indeed 
no other county in Scotland except the above rivals Renfrewshire in' 
this painful sort of pre*eniinence by many hundreds. The in- 



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556 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 



habited houses in 1841 were 24,626, and the parliamentary con- 
stituency 2336. 

The following will show the amount of population of four par- 
liamentary burghs within the county of Renfrew, viz. 



Houses, 



Pertont. 



In/tabited. Uninhab. Bnilding, Males, Femalet. 



Paisley, 
Greenock, , 
Port Glasgow, , 
Renfrew, . 



10183 

7052 

1384 

445 

19014 



671 

226 

51 

20 

"968 



9 

67 

8 

1 

80 



22064 

17440 

3184 

945 

48583 



26061 

18481 

8804 

1064 

49410 



Totals. 

48125 
35921 



2018 
62897 



The above tables include the population only within each par- 
liamentary boundary in 1841. Paisley and Greenock send each 
a representative to Parliament, and Port-Glasgow and Renfrew, 
with Kilmarnock, Rutherglen, and Dumbarton, send another. 

The following tables will show the amount of the population io 
the most active and stirring districts of this county according to 
last census, irrespective of parliamentary limits. 













Increase 




Fatnillet, 


Males. 
28098 


Females. 


Totals. 


inlOyeara. 


Paisley, 


. 12359 


dJ865 


60963 


8497 


Greenock, 


7330 


19502 


19344 


88846 


11278 


Port- Glasgow, 


. 1883 


8556 


3821 


7377 


2IR5 


Renfrew, . 


633 


1501 


1575 


8076 


243 


Neilston, 


. 1989 


4784 


5793 


10577 


2531 


Eastwood or PoUockshaws, 1506 


8737 


4228 


7965 


1111 


The following farther particulars may not prove uninteresting: 




Nnnihers in 










Average to 1000 ofb(4h sexes. 


Rath per cent Inhalntanis to 




a family. Males 


Females, 
539 


for ten yet 
6 per cc 


jrs. the 


sqwa'X mile. 


Paisley, 


4.93 461 


'Ot 


2415 


Greenock, 


. 5.16 502 


498 


41 do. 




8904 


Port- Glasgow, 


5.83 482 


518 


20 do. 




5588 


Renfrew, 


. 4.86 488 


512 


8.6 do. 




521 


Neilston, 


5.81 452 


548 


81.4 do. 




541 


Eastwood or 
I'ullockshaws, 


1 5.28 469 


531 


16 do. 




985 



Paisley has increased during the last fifty years, 36,351, or 147 
per cent. : Greenock in the same period, 23,846, or 159 per oeoL ; 
Port-Glasgow, 3341, or 82.7 per cent. ; Renfrew, 1448^ or 89 per 
cent. ; Neilston, 8247, or 354 per cent. ; Eastwood or Pollock- 
shaws,.8247, or 354 per cent. In these estimates, we must recol- 
lect that, previous to 1841, the population lists contained neither 



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COUNTY OF RENFREW. 557 

soldiers in the army or militia, nor seamen either in the navy or 
merchant ships. 

Agriculture^ Spe. — The county of Renfrew contains about 
154,240 acres, of which about 100,000 are cultivated ; 20,000 un- 
cultivated; and 34,240 unproGtable. The valued rent in 1674 
was L. 69,172 Scots ; the annual value of real property as assess* 
ed in 1815 was L. 265,534 Sterling. 'It is well known (hat this 
shire at one period constituted a part of Lanarkshire. Indeed, 
from its position on the north bank of the Clyde, it may still be 
regarded as part of Clydesdale. In soil and climate they much 
resemble each other. Mr Wilson, in his account of this shire, di* 
vides it into the high, middle, and lower districts, thus describing 
themt 

EngiUh Acre^ 
The high district, lying chiefly on gravel or rock, contains . 101,595 

Middle do. mostly of thin earth, gravel, or stiff clay, . . 40,595 

Lower da mostly of a rich loam or day, • . 12,067 

154,240 

The high district above designated, is chiefly noted for its ex- 
cellent pasture, and its extensive and well -managed dairy establish* 
ments. It bears no resemblance whatsoever to the upper ward of 
Lanarkshire, the soil of which lies upon greywacke, but the soil 
here lies chiefly on what the farmers term whin, or rotten whin. 
In some places, this upper region is chill and damp, but it also af- 
fords in several parishes excellent pasture. The middle district is 
not so famous for its pasture, but, owing to its vicinity to so many 
populous and busy marts of trade, the farmers here receive great 
encouragement to exert themselves in the culture of their land ; 
and the abundance of manure yielded by the towns in return en- 
ables them to rear all sorts of crops with the best advantage. The 
same remarks apply to the low, flat, or carse lands, which are farm- 
ed with great skill and success. In deference to the very excel- 
lent work of Mr Wilson, entitled " A General View of the Agri- 
culture of Renfrewshire," published in 1812, the usual division of 
soils is given as above, but this division is very artificial, and is 
scarcely correct. Perhaps we may distinguish them as follows : 
Diluvial, or mixed transported soil, abounds chiefly in valleys and 
by the sides of the rivers and streams. It is of various depth, from 
a few inches to many feet. It is composed of almost all sorts of 
rocks, with an admixture of vegetable matter. That connected 
with the river Clyde contains shells, and in inland places trees, and 
sometimes the horns of the stag, and various other animal remains. 



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558 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

The diluvium abounds in the coal district, which is included chiefly 
in the valleys of the Black Cart and Levern, with their expansions. 
It is a strong heterogeneous mass, termed by the farmers till, and 
is composed of particles of all the rocks found in the coalfields. 
Mr Bald, we believe, was the first to remark, that " these frag- 
ments of sandstone, slate, and coal, have sharp angles, and have 
not in any degree suffered from attrition, though comparatively 
very soft." It is also remarkable, that it contains no traces of ani* 
mal or vegetable remains. The soil approaching the alluvial and 
carse clay in fertility, is that produced from the decomposition of 
trap-rocks. It abounds chiefly in the parishes of Eaglesham, 
Mearns, Lochwinnoch, Innerkip, Greenock, Kilmalcolm, Hous- 
ton, and Kilbarchan. This sort of soil in favourable positions pro- 
duces excellent pasture, but it is in general found in a mixed state 
with clay and other sorts of soil. The soil produced by the de- 
composition of porphyry is also favourable for yielding good grass. 
It has been cultivated with success about Hartfield near Paisley, 
and at Muir8hields,in the parish of Lochwinnoch. But this sort 
of rock affects in general lofty situations, such as Misty Law, 
Queenside, and the Hill of Stake, where it is exposed to wasting 
rains and inclement skies, very unfavourable for the accumulation 
of soil and growth of vegetables, so essential for the practice of 
the agriculturist's art The worst sort of soil is that situated on 
the conglomerate of the coast, including more particularly the tract 
of country between Innerkip and the Shaws Water reservoirs. As 
these rocks, however, contain lime conglomerate, calcareous tuff, 
and limestone, the task of reclaiming the soil reposing on them is 
anything but hopeless. These calcareous deposits form a peculiar 
feature in the character of these rocks, in which they differ widely 
from those in Clydesdale. The farms in Renfrewshire are gene- 
rally let on leases of nineteen years. The average value of land 
is about L. 1, 15s. Some acres, however, of cultivated land, and 
of land in pasture, are not worth lOs. per annum, and others worth 
L. 10 and L.1 1 Sterling. In the lower district of the county there 
are four great mosses, including about 1900 acres. Much of it 
lies on good carse clay, and might be profitably removed. There 
are also extensive mosses in the south-east and middle districts of 
the county. A good deal of information on agricultural subjects 
in general, very accurately given, will be found in the various pa- 
rochial Accounts. 

Trade and Means of Communication. — In the excellent account 



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COUNTY OF RENFREW. 559 

of Paisley by Dr Burns, and in the accounts of the parishes of 
Greenock, Port-Glasgow, Renfrew, Kilbarchan, &c. there will be 
found very full, accurate, and interesting information, respecting 
the trade, merchandise, and commerce of this extensive and opu- 
lent county. About a century ago, the chief manufacture of the 
district was linen, which in 1828 amounted to 85,527 yards, of 
the value of L. 6352, 14s. 9d. Sterling. In 1784, it increased to 
1,922,020, valued at L. 164,386 Sterling. When the cotton trade 
came to be more generally cultivated, the produce of the linen trade 
in 1821 had fallen to 50,162 yards. The cotton-mills now form 
a striking feature in the manufactures of Paisley. Mr Robert 
Frame, in his Considerations on the Interest of the County of La- 
nark, published in 1769, says, ** when there was lately a proposal 
to allow the importation of French laton and cambrics^ what a cry 
did it not justly raise in the country. We ail then foresaw the ruin 
of our infant manufactures established at Paisley. Will not Pais- 
ley in a few years be able to dispute the market with any people 
in Europe?" At the present moment, she still experiences a for- 
midable rival in France. Mr Frame, in following up the above re- 
marks, concludes : ^^ Is not the case quite the same as to subsist* 
ence, at a time when our agriculture is in its infancy ? Is not the 
raising of grain a manufacture to all intents and purposes, as well 
as weaving ?' At the early stage of our manufactures, when our 
commercial and trading towns first began to feel their importance, 
there was a great outcry against the high prices of food, and the 
rise in wages. Stewart of Coltness, the political economist, who 
wrote about the same time, alludes to the unreasonable outcry of 
the selfish and conceited artisans, who were then just springing 
from " the dunghill and rising into prosperity !" ** Nothing," says 
he^ ^^ is more hurtful to trade, than transient years of extraordi- 
nary plenty and low prices of subsistence. If manufacturers do 
then continue diligent, the high profits upon their industry en- 
gage them to a better way of living, and when high prices of sub- 
sistence returns again, they complain as much as if they were de- 
prived of the necessaries of life." This is the key to much of the 
noise which we hear at the present day about high prices for food« 
Let these people look back to the condition of their forefathers, 
not a hundred years ago. A writer who knew these times well, 
thus alludes to them : ^^ What a change must it be to the whole 
class of labourers, who used to live their year out, they did not 
well know how ; to be receiving four shillvigs a-week for their 

RENFREW. O O 



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560 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS Off THE 

daily labour. Had you asked them formerly how they lived, they 
would ha?e told you < by the providence of God' The answer 
was good and proper, llieir industry was then so misoeUaneonsy 
the employment they found so precarious and uncertirin, that they 
could not give it a name ; now they know the fund they have to 
depend upon, and they know what they can afford to pay for their 
peck of meal." What will the labourers, workmen, and artisans, 
of various sorts now gaining three or four shillings a»day, say to 
this ? Even our weavers with their 8s. or 10s. a-week, and our 
labourers with 10s. or 12s., are much better off than those who re- 
joiced in four shittinffSj and looked back to shudder at former 
times. The people were never so miserable as when the oatmeal 
was 8s. or 10s. per boll. Trade at all times has been subject to 
great fluctuations. Then, as now, it was a sort of cant phrase that 
the << manufacturers, not the country labourers, are the first made 
to feel the distress of high prices." That they are first heard to 
complain, is certain, but that they are those who first auffir is ques- 
tionable. They are assembled in bodies, they reside in consider- 
able towns, where every individual, whether he' be in want or not, 
joins them in the cry for cheap provisions. The sorrows and com- 
plaints of the poor half-starving day-labourer cannot be heard, 
buried as he is in his miserable cottage, and surrounded by those 
who have an immediate interest in stopping his mouth. In a ^< Six 
weeks', Tour through part of England," published in 1768^ the truth 
of this position b fiilly substantiated, where it is asserted, that ^^all 
riot and revolt on account of high prices has constantly broken 
out among the higher classes of the industrious, whose wages far 
exceed what is found necessary for the lower labouring and manu- 
facturing classes. They do not cry for want, but becaUse they 
wish to live at a cheaper rate than the farmers can afford to sup- 
ply them." Considering the great privileges with which the people 
of this country have been blessed, the success with which their ex- 
ertions have been crowned, and the superior luxuries and com- 
forts which they in general enjoy, it is astonishing that we do not 
oftener hear the voice of thanksgiving, and less of popular mur- 
muring and complaint. We are certainly at the present moment 
the most ungrateful people on record, — the greatest murmurers 
under Heaven. The Israelites murmured in the barren waste and 
howling wilderness ; but we murmur in the land of Goshen. This 
vile temper will sooner or later work its own punishment or its own 
cure. The manufacturing classes, like the rest of their fellow men, 



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COUNTY OF U£NFRHW. 561 

would they always be comfortable must ** make hay when the sun 
shines !'' and thus be prepared for the day of adversityi when it 
arrives, and submit like those — 

-«« qui Dw 

Muneribus upicntur uti. 
Duramque eallct pauperiein pstL" 

ifeani of Conveyance^ S^c. — The first decided improvement of 
the roads in this county took place after the passing of two acts of 
Parliament in 1793, the one for converting the statute labour, the 
other for making certain new roads. According to Mr Wilson's 
estimate, upwards of L. 100,000 had been laid out in this county 
upon roads before 1812. The sum is much greater now. As far 
back as 1753, a turnpike act was passed to facilitate the commu- 
nication with Glasgow. Afterwards Inchinnan Bridge, an import- 
ant undertaking, was built, and the Kilmarnock and Greenock 
roads were formed. These remained in an indifferent state of re- 
pair till after the above period, 1792. The magistrates of Green- 
ock laid out upwards of L. 12,000 in forming the road along the 
shore between that town and Kelly Bridge on the confines of Ayr- 
shire. But her turnpike roads, once the boast of Renfrewshire, 
are about to be eclipsed by her railways. Of these, there are five 
within the county, or immediately connected with it, viz. 

1. The Pollock and Govan Railway was authorized by two acts 
passed in 1830 and 1831, with a capital of L. 26,000. Part of 
it extends to Rutherglen, and another terminus is at the quay at 
Glasgow. It was intended to connect the coal-fields in the south- 
east of Glasgow with that city. 

2. The Paisley and Renfrew Railway was authorized by an Act 
passed in 1835, with a capital of L. 23,000. It forms a direct 
communication between Paisley and the River Clyde at Renfrew 
Ferry. It is only three miles and a quarter in length. It was 
opened in May 1837. 

3. The Glasgow, Paisley, and Greenock Railway was autho- 
rized by an Act passed in 1837, with a capital of L. 533,333. It 
is twenty-two miles and a half in length, from the north end of 
Glasgow Bridge to the harbour at Greenock. It passes through 
Paisley and has a branch to Port-Glasgow. It was o|)ened 31st 
March 1841. The joint railway between Glasgow and Paisley, 
common with the Glasgow and Ayr Railway, was opened on the 
14th of July 1840. The capital has been raised to L. 666,666, 
for making new branches and other improvements, and erecting a 
pier opposite Dumbarton* 



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562 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS OX THE 

4. The Glasgow, Paisley, Kilmarnock, and Ayr Railway was 
authorized by an Act of Parliament passed in 1837, and has been 
executed at an expense of L. 812, 137, 15s. 6d. It extends forty 
miles, and the branch to Kilmarnock eleven miles. Near Dairy 
the line parts into two branches, the one running to Kilmarnock 
as above, the other passing on to Kilwinning, where it joins the 
Ardrossan Railway. The whole line was opened on 12th Au- 
gust 1840. New branches are projected. 

5. The Ardrossan and Johnstone Railway was authorized by 
an Act passed in 1840, which separated it from the management 
of the proprietors of the Glasgow, Paisley, and Johnstone Canal. 
The capital is L. 80,000. A junction has beenr effected with the 
Ayrshire Railway at Kilmarnock. Passengers go by this line to 
Ardrossan, and from thence by steam-boats to Ireland, Liverpool, 
and Fleetwood, on the direct railway line to London 

Since the opening of the Glasgow and Greenock Railway, a 
reduction of more than fifty per cent, has taken place in the fares 
of steam-boats on the Clyde. According to the report of the di- 
rectors of the above railway for the half-year ending 30th No- 
vember 1841, the receipts for that period have been to the amount 
of L. 25,205, 10s. 6d. being at the rate of L.969» 6s. lOd.per 
week. The disbursements on account of revenue within the half- 
year were L. 13,273, 9s. 2d. The cost of locomotive power has 
been 12.84d. per mile, being a reduction of eleven per cent oo 
the same item in the preceding half-year's accounts. The greatest 
number of passengers carried in one day h^s been 8510, and the 
average during the summer season, carried down to the watering- 
places on Saturday, and brought back on Monday, about 4000. 
The total number carried in the half-year was 402,241. The 
numbers travelling on the railway amount to forty-seven per cent* 
more than were computed in the Parliamentary tables. Should 
the railway from Dumbarton up the Leven valley be completed, 
it will add to the traffic of the railway. Already several saw-mills 
have been erected adjoining the line, and the lai^e cotton-mill 
and other works on the Shaws Water, having now commenced 
operations, will much benefit the line. All the lines here have 
suffered much from the late failures .and stagnation in trade. It 
is well known that an increase of thirty per cent, and upwards has 
taken place almost universally, on English railways between the 
first and second years of their o()ening, but, from the above cause, 
the whole numbers travelling by canal and on the joint railway, 
between Glasgow and Paisley, are now three per cent, less than 



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COUNTY OF UEKFUEVV. 663 

during the corresponding period of 1840. The passengers who 
travelled oi the Ayr line during the year preceding dOth August 
1641, were upwards of 900,000. 
There are three canals connected with this county. 

1. The Glasgow, Paisley, and Johnstone Canal, es tending be- 
tween Glasgow and Johnstone, about eleven miles. It was at first pro- 
posed to carry the cut as far as Ardrossan. It was opened in 181 L 
By the application of lightly constructed passage boats, dragged at 
a rapid rate by horses, the revenue of this canal has been greatly 
increased ; the number of passengers conveyed during the year 
ending 80th September 1840, was no less than 396,248, besides 
76,393 tons of various sorts of goods. 

2. The Forth and Cart Junction Canal, was suggested by Dr 
Boog in the last Statistical Account of Paisley, Vol. vii. p. 78. 
It is one mile and a half in length, forming a branch from the^ 
Forth and Clyde Canal to the Clyde, terminating nearly opposite 
the mouth of the Cart. The company was incorporated by an 
Act passed in 1836, with a capital of L. 10,000. The canal is 
now completed, and is now chiefly used for the transport of coals, 
ironstone, and miscellaneous goods, from districts connected with 
the great canal to Paisley. 

3. A canal, particularly mentioned in the^former Statistical Ac- 
count of Paisley, was cut to avoid the shallows of Inchinnan 
Bridge. It was finished at an expense of L.4000. The tonnage 
in 1835 brought L.260 per annum. 

Improvements have of late years been carrying on to a conside- 
rable extent in the river Cart In the account of Paisley, it is 
said, " these,' when finished, will greatly increase the revenue aris- 
ing from it, as well as improve the commercial interests of the 
place." Unfortunately, these generous anticipations have' not been 
realised. The affairs of the river Cart are now a complete wreck, 
and, like the revenues of the corporation of Paisley, are verging to 
insolvency. In the last report of the income and expenditure of 
the river Cart Trust it appears that, while the expenditure in the 
year 1841 was L. 1667, lis. 9d. the revenue was only L.937, 6s. 
8d. being an excess of expenditure over income, amounting to 
L.730, 58. Id. One of the most melancholy features in the case 
is the item of debentures, L.9296, due sundries, for savings banks. 
This, with an equal sum, at least, raised in the same way, upon 
the credit of the town's funds, comes entirely out of the pockets 
of the industrious and working-classes. We cannot believe the ^ 
surmise that these bubble banks were set up in the spirit of extreme 

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564 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

reform, by which the majority of electors in Paisley have long 
signalized themselves, merely out of spite to the Government sa- 
vings banks. If so, — ^if they have been accused of entertaining high 
opinions in politics, — they have paid a high price for them. The 
present magistrates of Paisley are, John Henderson, Provost ; Da- 
vid Murray, Robert Paton, James fiarr, John Smith, Bailies. 
But, notwithstanding their present depressing circumstances, let 
the community of Paisley take courage from the circumstances in 
which the people of Greenock were placed at the beginning of the 
eighteenth century. Their harbour was first erected, as formerly 
hinted at, by a tax of Is. 4d. Sterling, upon every sack of malt 
brewed into ale ; but the expense amounting to upwards of 1 00,000 
merks, the magistrates became alarmed at the greatness of the 
debt incurred ; and we are told that ** on Sir John Shaw's agreeing 
to take it upon him, they resigned to him the harbour and assess- 
ment above mentioned." In 1 740, there was a surplus of 27,000 
merks, the foundation of the present town's funds. Thus did the 
people of Greenock drink themselves into wealth and importance. 
We trust that prudence, and the avoiding of extreme measures, 
may yet bring a sister corporation out of all her present diflSculties, 
not by a malt-tax, but by the force of honourable pursuits and 
honest industry. 

A great deal of information will be found respecting this shire in 
Mr Wilson's work, before alluded to ; in Crawfurd's Renfrewshire, 
with its continuation by Robertson ; also in Hamilton of Wishaw's 
MS.; and Principal Dunlop's " Description of Renfrewshire." 
In ancient Scottish story, it stands forth prominent as the ancient 
residence of the Stewarts, and the birth-place of Wallace. 

Here Wallace ahone, a race of matohleas might, 
GenUe io peace, but terrible in fight ! 
The fiune of Wallace never can eipire. 
While Scottish breasts heroic deeds admire. 
And friendship hither Roes from England drew 
The royal BniGe*s fortune to pursue : 
And hence the fiuthful race ot Brskine springs, 
Marr's lords, the guardians of our jouthftil kings ; 
To whom an ancient nation dared intrust 
Their Aiture hopes, and erer found them just. 

We have abstained from offering any remarks respecting the na 
vigation of the river Clyde, referring to the statistics of Greenock, 
Port- Glasgow, Renfrew, and Glasgow. We may here only state 
that it has been ascertained from custom-house returns, and other 
sources, that upwards of 200,000 tons of coal and timber alone 
passed up and down the Clyde last year, and that about 100,000 



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COUNTY OF RENFREW. 565 

tons of coal are consumed annually at Port^Olasgow and Greenock. 
Thejurisdictionof the "River Trust" terminates at Toward-point. 
At Cloch-point, on the brow of the rock, stands the Cloch light- 
bouse, a circular tower 80 feet high, with a stationary stellate 
light It bears N. E. four miles from the point of Wemyss, and 
six miles N. E. by E. from Toward-point. 

Table L — Showing the number of persons committed for trial 
or bailed in the county of Renfrew in the year 1840: 

Offences agaioat penona, 116 

property, with Tiolence, . 60 

property, iHtboot Yiolenoe, 960 

Malicioiu offences against property, 8 

Forgery, and oflenoes against the earrency* • 16 

Other ol&ncesy . . 94 

Toul, 7^ 



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INDEX. 



Abbey of Paudey, *i06— pftrish, 225 
Abbots of Ptiisley, tbe, 210 
** Aboon the brae'* spring, the, 539 
Alexander, W. M. Esq. 18 
Agricultund Society, Renfrewshire, 260 
Agricultural and rural economy, 20, 39, 

50, 59. 126, 255, dd3» 373, 397, 431, 

5J2, 525, •516, 527 
Antiquities, 17, 94, 123, 193, 328, 365, 

395^501,506,526 
Ardgowan Mansion house, 526 
Ashbum house, 526 
Aucbinbathie Wallace, 87 — tower, 95 
Auldhouse, water of, 34— bleaching-field, 

40 
Ayr and Renfrewshire Friendly Society 

of Weavers, 44 
Bagimont*8 RolU 13! 
Bakgich hill, 364 
Banks, Provident — the Port- Glasgow, 

72— the Paisley, 294 — the Greenock, 

478— the Erskine, ^525 
Black Book of Paisley, the, 165 
BUck Cart river, the, 47 
BUckhaU house, 194 
Black loch, the, 516 
Blackstoun house, 362 
Bhickstoun, village of, *520 
BUckwood hill, 384 
Blaotyre, family of, *510 
BUwerthill, 7 
Bleachfields, 24, 35, 51, 52, 102, 281, 

317,^35 
Blythswood house, 19 
Bonninton Spring. 385 
Botany, 9, 47, 85, 117, 160, 322, 361, 

390, 411, 497, 518, •506, 549 
Bredieland, 197 
Bridewell, Paisley, 297 
Bridgend, the bridge of, 96 
Bridge of Weir vUlage, 378 
Brig o* Johnston, the, 202 
Brock burn, 34 — driver, the, 316 
Brother loch, the, 34^ 516 
Buck Inch, the, 5 
Calder river, the, 82 
Camp hill, 502 
Canal, the Glasgow, Pai^ey, and Ardros- 

8an,277 
Candren spring, 355 
Castle hill, the, 10 

RENFREW^ 



Castle Semple house, 77^och, 81 
Cathcart, parish of, 495— civil history of, 

498— family of, 498— character of its 

inhabitants, 506 — miscellaneous obser- 
vations on, 51 1 
Cawpla Rill, 316 
Cbamberof Commerce and Manufacture, 

450 
Charleston, 200 
Churches and chapels — Established, see 

Ecclesiastical statistics — Dissenting, 

see Dissenters 
Climate and meteorology, 3. 63, 77, 114, 

140, 310, 356, 384, 407, 496, 513, 

•502,531 
Ciippens house, 370 
Ciochoderick stone, the, 367 
Clyde, the river, 4, 63, 115, 409, 533 
Cockle hill, 7 
Collieries, 36, 359 
Communication,- means of, 26, 41, 104, 

128, 276, 339, 378, 451, •5*20, 558 
Corkindale-kw, the, 309 
Cotton^miUs, 103> 273, 336, 377, 442 
Cowglen collierv, 36 — friendly socictv^ 

44 
Crawfurdsdyke, village of, 413 
Crockston castle, 193, 351 
Crosslie mill, 51 

Cuninghame of Craigeods, family of, 369 
Daxgavel House, •513-.*4U]d Orbistoun, 

feud between, •509 
Damley bleachfield, 35 
Darnley bridge, 35 

Darroch, Lieut-General, family of, *51I 
Dissenters and Dissenting chapels, 42, 

60, 71, 106, 227, 845, 379, 462, 50d 
Distillery, Greenock, 441 
Dog Row, the, 12 
Dovecothall, 20O 
Douglas, Lord, 18 
Duchall water, 57 

Dunlup, James, Esq. of Lin wood, 326 
Dunwan hill, 384 
Eaglesham, parish of, 383— civil history 

of, 391 
Earn river, the, 516 
Easter Rosshuid, village of, •520 
Eastwood or Pollock, parish of, 33-^ 

civil history of> 36— oniscellaiicoui ob* 

scrvtitions on, 45 



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568 



RENFREWSHIRE. 



Ecclesiastical statistics, 27, 41, 52, 60 

70, 105, 128, 203, 341, 378, 408, 454, 
509, 524, •499, •522 

Education, statistics of, 29, 43, 53» 60, 

71, 107, 133, 244, 346, 380, 404, 464, 
509,524, •499,*524 

Eldersly, house of, 5— village of, 201 

Elliston Castle, 95 

Erskiiie, parish of, *500~its civil his- 
tory, ^506 — ^land-owners in, "510 — 
house, ^515 — ferry, •521 

Espedair bum, 281 

Fairs, 32, 45, 54,61, 111, 128,275, 349, 
404,490 

Fancy iann- bouse, 526 

Female union society, 292 

Ferguslie, 197— castle of,' 198 

Finlayston house, 58 

FUhes, 10, 57, 115, 146, 321, 360, 516, 
•499, •520 

Fleming of Barrocban, family of, 48 

Florist and agricultural societies, 260 

Founderies, iron and brass, 274 

Fulbar lands, 197 

Funeral friendly society, 44 

Garscadden seat, 8 

Gas company, the Paisley, 282 

Gas-works, Greenock, 442 

Geology and mineralogy, 6, 34, 47, 57, 
82, 1 16, 147, 317, 358, 385, 410, 497, 
517, 525, *503, 540 

Giffnoek quarry, 85 

Glasgow, Paisley, and Greenock RaiU 
way, 452 

Glen of Barr, family of, 92 

Gieniffer, the braes of, 140 

Gleutyan house, 370 

Gourock rope-work manufiu^ry, 67 — 
house, 526 

Grahame of Gartmore, family of, ^512 

Greenbenk dye-work, 40 

Greenock, parish of, 405— civil history, 
412— town of, 413— town-hall, 425— 
character of its inhabitants, 428 --mis- 
cellaneous observations on, 491 

Greenockite, the mineral, ^504 

Grove mill, 51 

Gryfe river, the, 46 

Hawkhead, house of, 12, 194 

Herring yair, the, 8 

High Church, Paisley, 225 

Hope Temple Museum, 294 

Hospital, the Pdsley, 286 

Hooaehill, 198 

Houston and Killallan, parishes of, 46— 
dvil history of, 48— character of inha- 
bitants, 50 — miscellaneous observa- 
tions on, 54 

Houston cotton .mill, 52 

Inchinnan, parish of, 113 — dvil history 
of, 118— church of, 124— chaiaeter of 



its inhabitants, 125— miscellaneous ob- 
servations, 134 
Infirmary, Greenock, 474 
Innerkip, parish of, 525— dvil history 

of, 526 
Inns and alehouses, and thdr effects, 32, 
45, 54, 61, 110, 134, 190, 349, 404, 
490, 524, ^526 

Iron-works, Greenock, 439 
Johnstone castle, 198 
Johnston village, 201 
Jordan, hill of, 2— house of, 19 

Kelly mansion-house, 526 

Kenmure, hill of, 76 

Kevoch bum, 385 

Kilbarchan, parish of, 352 — dvil his- 
tory of, 362— village of,.362— chaiac 
ter of its inhabitants, 372 

Kilbiraie loch, 75 

KiUockglen, the, 317 

Kilmalcolm, parish of, 56— dvil history 
of, 57— library, 61— friendly sodety, 
61 — miscellaneous obsermtions, 61 

King^ Inch, 5— meadow, 12 

Kirkton village, 378 

Knock hill, 2 

Umd, rent of, 21, 39, 50, 59, 100, 126, 
256, 333, 374, 431 

Lang, Maigaret, execution of, for witch- 
craft, •507 

Langhouse, 526 

Langside village, 503 

Leven house, 526 

Levera, water of, 34, 147, 316^miU, 329 

Libraries and literature, 81, 44, 53, 61, 
72, 108, 133, 299, 348, 404, 469 

Linen thread, first manufactory of, in 
Scotland, ^508 

Little loch, the, 516 

Locher spring, 355 

Loch-Hbo, 316 

Lochwinnoch, parish of. 74 — dvil his- 
toiy of, 86 — village of, 97— tract so- 
dety, 107 — mlacelhuieous observations 
on. Ill 

Long Loch, the, 316 

Lonwood village, 878 

Mars mire, 504 

Manulactures, 23, 40. 67, 101,261,264, 
335, 376, 401, 438, 506, 523, '499 

Markets, see Fairs 

Marlin ford, 5 

Masonic lodges, Greenock, 476 

Maxwell of Dargavel, family of, •512 

Maxwellton, 200 

Mearns, parish of, 512-dvil history of, 
518 

Medical faculty, the Paisley, 299 

Meteorology, seg Climate 

Milliken mansion-house, 370 

Millerston, 200 



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INDEX. 



509 



Minerals, manufacture of, 157 
Mineralogy, se* Geology 
Mires hiU, 384 
Misty law hill, 75 
Monteath, George, M. D. 3*25 
MuDsde hill spring, 385 
Muslin weaving, 23 
Muirdykes, battle of, 86 
Napier of Milliken, fiunily of, dC8 
Neilston, parish of, 307 — civil history of, 
322 — character of its inhabitants, 331 
— agricultural society, 333— miscella- 
neous observations on, 349 
Newspapers and periodicals, 299, 473 
Newton estate, 197— village, 523 
NitshiU vUlage, 200 
Orbiston and Dargavel, feud between the 

families of, •509 
Overton village, 201 — reservoir, 434 
PadhUl, the, 309 

Paisley, town and parishes of, 135, 199, 
225 — civil history of, 165 — ancient re- 
oonds of, 181 — ^police establishment, 
186 — county buildings, 199 — charac- 
ter of the inhabitants, 251 — water com- 
pany, 280 — gas company, 282-^dis- 
pensary, 292— miscellaneous observa- 
tions on, 300 
Paper manufactory, Overton, 442 
Parochial registers, 18, 38, 49, 58, 121, 

240, 328, 370» 395, 412. 500 
Plantations and pLinting, 20, 38, 47,99, 

117,162,361,506 
Pollock, femily of, 392 
PoUockshaws cotton- work, 40 — town of, 

41— jail of, 45 
Pulnoon, the castle of, 395 
Population returns, 19, 38,49, 58, 65, 97, 
124, 248, 830, 371, 396, 426, 505, 
521, •515, 554 
Porterfield farm, 8 

Port-Glasgow, parish of, 62 — civil his- 
tory of, 64— town of, 64 — revenue of, 
65— character of its inhabitants, 66 — 
harbours of, 69 — miscellaneous obser- 
vations on, 74 
Potteries, Greenock, 440 
Prisons, 297, 425, 489 
Produce, average annual, 59, 101, 127, 

258, 335, 401 
Puddough, the, 5 
Quarrel ton, colliery of, 151 — village of, 

201 
Quarries, 35, 101, 127, 376. 432 
Queen Blearie's stane, 14 — tomb, 219 
Queenside loch, 82 
Railways, 279, 561 

Rebellions of 1715 and 1745, the, 179 
Renfrew, parish of, 1 — civil history of, 
10— miscellaneous observations on, 32 



— general ob6er\'ation6 on the county 
of, *528 

Rising in 1819, the, 323 

Rivers and waters, 5, 34, 47, 57, 75, 315, 
357, 385, 516 

Robertson, Mr John, the inventor, 326 

Ross, Sir John of Hawkhead, 13 

Row island, the, 5 

Rossland, village of, •520 

Sail-cloth manufactory, the Greenock, 
440 

Sailor's library, the Port-Glasgow, 71 

Sailor^s society, the, 31 

Sand Inch, the, 5 

Seropill, family of, 88 

Shaw, Christian, ^507 

Shawl manufacture, 264 

Shaw's water, 433 

Shipping, 25, 67, 278, 439, 444, 527 

Societies, 28, 31, 44, 61, 71, 106, 108. 
248, 260, 289, 296, 346, 381, 404, 
510, •525 

Speirs, Alexander, Esq. of EldcrKly, 18 

Staik hill, 75 

Stanelie casde, 194 

Stead stone cross, the, 196 

Stewart, family of, 10 

Stewart, Dr Andrew, *514 

Stewart, Walter, Esq. of Pardovan, 37 

Stewart's Raise tower, 193 

St Bride's burn, 354— chapel, 366 

St George's church. Paisley, 226 

St Minn's Aisle, 217 

Strathdyde, kingdom of, 98 

Sugar-works, Greenock, 440 

Tan-works, the Greenock, 440 

Thorn village, 201 

Thomliebauk calico-piinting establish- 
ment, 40 

Towns and villages. 41, 52, 59, 97, 104, 
128, 200, 378, 413, 503 

Trust establishment, the river Clyde, 25 

Vale of Tempe, the, 76 

Wages, rates of, 21, 23, 24, 36, 39, 52, 
67, 126, 159,256, 331, 374,432, 441, 
•517 

Walkinshaw house, 19 

Wallace, Sir WUliam, 87 

Water company, the Paisley, 280 

Water works, the Shaw's, 432 

Watt, James, 4 IS— Statue of, 423 

Wellmeadow print and bleachfield, 523 

White Cart river, the, 34, 145 

White loch, the, 516 

Widow and Orphan Society, the, 296 

Witches of Renfrewshire, the, «507 

Williamsburgh village, 200 

Wilson, Alexander, the American Orni- 
thologist, 93- 

Woodrow, Mr, 37 



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570 RENFREWSmUE. 

Woodsidc, 197 
Woollen manufactories, < 
Young, Dr Walter, *&! 4 



Woodsidc, 197 1 7.oology, 9, 47. 820, 360, 

Woollen manufactories. Greenock, 441 I 389, 497, 518, "dOb. 548 



>^RINTED BY JOHN STABX, 
OLD AfBEMBIrY CL0ȣ, EOlNBURaif. 



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ARGYLE. 



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CONTENTS. 



ARDCIIATTAN, 


PAGE 468 


ARDNAHL'RCHAN, 


117 


CAMPBBLTON, 


453 


CRAIOMSH, 


45 


DUKOON AND KILMUN, . 


567 


6IGHA AND CARA, 


394 


GLASSARY, 


675 


GLENURCHY AND INISHAIL, . 


82 


INVBRARY, 


1 


INYBRCHAOLAIN 


108 


JURA, 


534 


KILBRANDON AND KILCHATTAN, 


71 


KILCALMONELL AND KILBERKY, 


408 


KILCHOMAN, 


644 


KILCHRBNAN AND DALAYICH, 


372 


KILD ALTON, 


659 


KILFINAN, 


359 


KILFINICHEN AND KILVICBUEN, 


296 


KILLAROW AND KILUBNY, 


668 


KILLEAN AND KILCHENZIE, 


376 


ICILMADAN, 


672 


KILMARTIN, 


547 


KILMORB AND KILBRIDE, 


522 


KILNINIAN AND KILMORE, 


339 


KILNINVER AND KILMBLFORD, 


61 


KNAPDALB, NORTH, 


631 


KNAPDALE, SOUTH, 


257 


LI8UORE AND APPIN, 


223 


LOGHOOILREAD AND KILMORICH, 


701 


MORYBRN, 


163 


MUCKAIRN, 


509 


NORTH KNAPDALE, 


631 


SADDELL AND SKIPN£!)S, 


436 


SOUTHEND, 


413 


SOUTH KNAPDALE, 


257 


STRACUUR AND STRALACHLAN, 


103 


TIREE AND COLL, 


195 


TOROSAY, 


277 



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PARISH OF INVERAHY.* 

PRESBYTERY OF INVSRARY, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. COLIN SMITH, ) Minui^rM 

REV. DUNCAN CAMPBELL,/ ^•«"'^'''- 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The parish of Inverary was at one period called Kil- 
milieu, and also Glenaray ; or probably these names were applied 
to districts which formed distinct and separate parishes, now unit* 
ed. Kilmilieu is now applied to the burying ground only, and 
Glenaray to the north-east portion of the parish. The records of 
the synod of Argyle, and of the presbytery of Inverary, as well 
as those of the kirk-session, mention Glenaray and Inveraray as 
united parishes ; but as there is no territorial division corresponding 
to these names, Inverary, when spoken of as a parish, includes the 
whole district placed under the spiritual superintendence of the 
two collegiate ministers. 

The parish takes its name from the river Aray. The old town of 
Inverary was situated upon its banks, at its junction with the sea, 
and as the plain formed by the deposition of mud and sand at the 
mouth of a river is called in the Gaelic language In-aor or Inver^ 
the burgh took its name from its site, and was called Inverary, or 
in Gaelic Inaaretara. Different opinions may be formed of the 
etymology of the word Aray or Aork. The two principal streams 
or rivers in the parish are the Aora and Shira, and the contrast 
in their character and course is supposed to have suggested their 
names. The waters of the Aray or Aor^ rush rapidly over a rug- 
ged and rocky bed, while those of the Shira flow gently, for the 
most part, on a pebbly channel, and, therefore, some, among whom 
was Dr Fraser, the writer of the last Statistical Account of this 
parish, think that the Aray or Aora means ao-reidh^ not smooth, 
and the Shira, sigr-reidh^ always smooth. 

Extent J <$-c. — The parish is from 15 to 16 miles in length, 
and from 3 to 6 miles in breadth. It is bounded on the south- 



* DraWn up by the Rev. Colin Smith, minihtcr of the parish. 
ARGYLB. A 



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2 ARGVLESHIRK. 

west by the parish of Kilmichael Glassary; on the south and 
south*east^ by Lochfyne ; on the east, by Lochfyne and the pa- 
rish of Kilmorie ; on the north and north-east, by the parish of 
Inisail ; and on the north west and west, by the parishes of Kil- 
chrenan and Dalavich. It stretches along lochfyne for about ten 
miles, presenting an undulating outline of projecting rocks and re- 
tiring bays. Its form appears that of a crescent, constituted by 
mountains based by plains of greater or less declination, and cleft 
by two valleys running along its whole length, which meet and 
bisect each other at the burgh of Inverary. These valleys are 
formed on the north east end of the parish by Glensbira and Glen- 
aray, and the eye may easily trace the continuation of these to 
the south-west, by each side of the hill which divided that district 
into two parts. 

The parish has not been surveyed and measured, but it is said* 
to consist of 52 square miles, or 26,000 Scotch acres, which there 
is reason to believe is much short of its real extent. It is divided 
into 1 16 merk lands. 

Topographical Appearances. — The general appearance of the 
parish is mountainous, presenting that diversity of form which is aU 
ways the result of the meeting and mingling together of two dif- 
ferent mountain rocks. Here a mountain of micaceous schistus 
may be seen rising upwards to the height of 2000 or 3000 
feet, a huge and isolated mass; or ^stretching along in uniform 
height and unbroken surface, with its sloping sides clothed with 
heath and verdure ; and there, collected around the base of their 
prouder and older brethren, ridges of porphyry are grouped, some- 
times in masses of naked rock, 700 or 800 feet high, and some- 
times in low and gentle hillocks, mantled with trees or covered 
with soft succulent herbage. The result of the whole is an out- 
line so diversified, so waving, and so beautiful, as is of itself snfii- 
cient to delight the eye, and to give noble and characteristic fea- 
tures to the scenery of the parish. 

Benbui is the mast lofty of the mountains, being about '2800 
feet high ; and Dunchuait'h with Duntorvil, which rise perpendi- 
cularly in front of the Duke of Argyle's Castle to the height of 
700 and 800 feet, are the most remarkable of the porphyritic ele- 
vations. 

The roast is for the most part sandy and flat, excepting the 

• tjaiitis View of thi AgMculturc ot Argvleshire. 



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INVEUARY. 3 

southern portion, which is high and rocky. There are two he;i(l- 
lands remarkable for the^view which they command of the parish, 
the one called Kenmor, the other Stronshira. 

Climate. — The climate of the country may be described as va- 
riable. Heavy rains, hail, and snow alternate with frost and warm 
sunshine sometimes in the course of the same day. Tho generally 
moist state of the atmosphere implies a climate rather mild ihiUi 
severe, and accordingly frosts are for the most part of short dura- 
tion ; the snow seldom continues upon the plains above two, or, 
at most, three days, and melts off from the greater number of our 
mountains without doing much injury to the sheep. The undulat- 
ing outline formed by height and hollow with the woods which are 
spread everywhere, affords protection from every blast, and some- 
times evaporation is so slow that the straw with which the cott«)oes 
are thatched, rots much sooner than in more exposed situ uions. 
For the same reason, every tree and shrub is overgrown with luure- 
rous mosses and lichens, which clothe the stem with tlieir ever- 
green leaves, or hang in festoons from the highest branches. 

The following is a table of the weather, as taken from a record 
kept at Inverary, from 1st January 1833 to ht January 1 836. The 
pressure of the atmosphere was ascertained hv means of Adie's syrn- 
piesometer ; an instrument exceedingly delicate, but so nearly ac- 
cordant with a good wheel barometer \\hich stood l^eside it, that 
the whole difference between them consisted in the quicker indi- 
cations of the former. Both stood about 25 feet above the level 
of the sea. 'I'he thermometer was placed at a window with a noi ih- 
west aspect, and as much removed from radiation, as possible. The 
observations on both were taken at 9 o'clock a. m., at 2 r. m., and 
at 9 p. M. The rain-gage used was also of Mr Adie's const nict ion, 
and was placed in the Duke of A rgyle's garden, by permission, on 
the top of a wall about twenty feet high. It was removed in Ja- 
nuary 18^34, to Glenaray, about 300 feet above the level of the 
«ea. Both situations were carefully chosen, with a view to ren- 
der the observations as accurate as pos^sille. 

1833. 

Sympicsometer. Thermometer. Ruin. 

Morn. Noon. Even. Morn. Noon. Even. 

Jan. o0 31 o0.31 bO.ai 3+.3 39. 35.4 1.76 

F«b. SJ.'il 29.46 '^\}.\7 ;jf).l 43 40.8 G.CM) 

March, 30.05 30.04 rsO.OI 40.8 40.4 38.3 1.55 

April, 5^9 78 2X76 2'J.17 47.5 51.5 43 7' 3.55 



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♦ 



ARGYLESHIUE. 



May, 30.09 

June, 29-76 

July, 30 03 

Aug. 29.96 

Sept 29.88 

Oct 29.76 

Nov. 29.74 

Dec 29.46 



Sympiesometer. 

Morn. Noon. Even. 

30.08 30.11 

29.75 29.73 

30.03 30.03 

29.96 29.96 

29.87 29 88 

29.75 2a73 

29.71 29.73 

29.45 29.46 



Thermometer. 



Morn^ 

57.7 

69.3 

52.4 

59.3 

54.7 

49.5 

42.7 

40.3 



Noon* 
62.4 
62.8 
67. 
63.9 
59.2 
535 
456 
44.6 



Even. 
53.2 
53.8 
58.5 
54.1 
51.6 
48.1 
42.1 
39.5 



Rain. 

2.75 
7.65 
4.50 
4.40 
6.30 
9.65 
6.40 
950 



• 














64.90 








1884. 














Sympieaometer. 


Thermometer. 


Rain 




Morn. 


Noon. 


Even. 


Mom. 


Noon. 


Even. 




Jan. 


29.50 


29.51 


29.50 


42.6 


43.6 


41.2 


10.80 


Feb. 


29.94 


29.93 


29.91 


40.7 


4a8 


39.6 


6.80 


March, 30.03 


30.01 


3ao4 


42.1 


47.6 


41.1 


6.30 


^: 


30.19 


30.17 


30.17 


4a2 


53.7 


45.5 


1.50 


29.92 


29.91 


29.92 


55.9 


61.6 


52.1 


3.55 


1 Jane, 


29.79 


29.79 


2a79 


59.2 


63.2 


65.2 


3iO 


July, 


29.82 


29.86 


29.86 


64.2 


70.3 


61 


6. 


Aug 


29.70 


29.69 


29.70 


60.9 


66.2 


57.5 


2.40 


Sept 


29.91 


29.89 


29.91 


57. 


62 


522 


3.15 


Ck;t 


29.82 


29.86 


89.84 


49.4 


52.8 


47.1 


6.30 


Nov. 


29.78 


29.76 


29.77 


43.7 


46.5 


42.3 


7. 


Dec. 


30.08 


30.08 


30.09 

1835. 


43. 


45.2 


42.9 


5.20 
64. 






Sympiesometer. 


Thermometer. 


Rain 




Morn. 


Noon. 


Even. 


Mom. 


Noon. 


Even. 




Jan. 


29.85 


29.83 


2&84 


38.4 


40.3 


38.2 


3.90 


Feb. 


29.44 


29.42 


29.40 


40.2 


43. 


40.8 


12.79 


March, 29.71 


29.71 


29.71 


42.5 


46.2 


40.1 


8.14 


^ 


29.93 


29.92 


29 90 


48. 


51.1 


47.2 


5.79 


29.63 


29.61 


29.62 


52.2 


56.2 


48.1 


8.73 


Junoi, 


29.83 


29.81 


29.85 


6a2 


66.9 


56.1 


3.30 


July, 


29.70 


29.67 


29.72 


61.1 


65.1 


57.1 


5.11 


Aug. 


29.71 


29.70 


29.71 


61.2 


66.3 


58.1 


4.30 


Sept 


29.33 


29.30 


29.33 


55. 


59. 


51. 


10.37 


Oct. 


29.46 


29.45 


29.47 


45.1 


50.2 


44.1 


5.04 


Nov. 


29.60 


. 29.49 


29.59 


43.1 


45.2 


42.2 


5.99 


Dec. 


29.85 


29.80 


29.86 


38.1 


41.1 


39.1 


7.09 



80.55 

It will be seen from the preceding table that the quantity of 
rain which falls in this parish is prodigious. 

Thunder storms are frequent but seldom injurious. The quan- 
tity of solar light is small, and the sun is often obscured by clouds 
for days together. 

Catarrh, haemoptysis^ phthisis, rheumatism, diarrhoea, dyspepsia^ 
dyspnoea, ophthalmia, inflammatory fevers gradually assuming a low 
and nervous, or more frequently a typhoid or putrid form, with scro* 
fula, suppression of urine, paralysis, dropsy, flow of blood to the 



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INVEKARY. 6 

head, with the phlegmasiae in general, are the most usual com- 
plaiuts among the inhabiti^nts of this parish. 

Hydrography. — Lochfyne, which forms the south and east 
boundary of this parish for several miles, constitutes its principal 
feature in a hydrographical point of view. It is one of those nu- 
merous arms of the sea by which this county is so peculiarly in- 
tersected, and by which it enjoys such remarkable maritime ad- 
vantages. Its waters receive those of innumerable mountain 
streams, by which they are rendered brackish ; and its colour 
varies from bright sea-green to black. Its luminousness is 
small ; and, surroHnded by mountains, it is protected in a great 
measure from the storms which agitate the ocean. The tide rises 
to the height of 16 feet on ordinary occasions, but subject, of 
course, to variations on account of the weather. That portion of 
it which bounds this parish is generally free of rocks and sand- 
banks, with one exception, which occurs opposite the western end 
of the burgh of Inverary ; and the force of the tides is at no time 
great. The breadth of the loch varies from 2 to 9^ miles ; and the 
depth corresponds in some measure to the character of the coast, 
being, at the head of the loch, about 14 fathoms; and at Dun- 
deraw, 18 do.; near Stronshira, 40 do. ; between St Catherine's 
and Inverary, 60 do. ; at Inverary pier, 60 do. ; opposite Cromalt 
and Dalchenoa, 73 do. ; opposite Cromalt and Dalcbenna, near 
the shore, 6 do. ; between Strachur and Creggans, 84 do. ; from 
Creggans to Kenmore, 32 do. ; from Creggans to Kenmore, near 
the shore, 19 do. ; opposite Kenmore, 70 do. ; opposite Penny- 
more, 52 do. ; opposite Furnace, 44 do. 

The general character of the shore is smooth ; but towards the 
southern extremity of the parish, the rocks rise from the water's 
edge to a considerable height, and give the coast a bold and rug- 
ged appearance. Bays, varying in size and character, occur at 
short distances, forming such an undulated shore as greatly en- 
hances the beauty of the scenery. 

The principal lake in the parish is the Douloch or black lake, 
so named from its deep and dark-coloured waters. It is situated 
to the N. E. of the burgh in Glenshira, about one-fourth part of 
a mile from Lochfyne, and elevated only a few feet above it. 
Though this lake is so near the sea there is no appearance from 
which it can be inferred that the latter recently extended into the 
valley, and receded, leaving the former in possession of its bed. The 



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C AitGYLESHIUK. 

soil of the intervening field is, indeed, gravelly, and such asditliel* 
the river or the sea might form ; butif, at any former period, thes^en 
entered into the basin which the Douloch occupies, it must have been 
remote ; and the trees, which were planted near 200 years ago, from 
one beach to the ot her, jihow that there have been no recent changes. 
The river, wliich communicates between this lake and Lochfyne, 
is called Gearamhuinn, or short river, and is the channel of fresh 
and snit water alternately, regulated by the flowing and ebbing of 
the tide. It is tenanted by abundance of salmon, trout, white 6sb, 
&c. ; and the common crab, with other sea fish, have been fre- 
quently found in it. Salmon- trout, herring, cod, and flouoders, 
&c. are often tiiken hero in the same net. There are also many 
mountain lakes in the prish, which abound in fish. The most 
remarkable of these are in the hill of Killian, and their banks are 
generally clothed with the white water-lily. 

The two princi|)al streams which flow into Lochfyne in this pa- 
rish issue from the two valleys of Glenshira and Glenaray. The 
former of these, called the Shira, rises in Eenbni, Stranmore, and 
the mountains bounding the parish on the east, about nine miles 
from its confluence with the sea. During the first five miles of 
its course, it, as well as its tributary streams, make their way 
through narrow passes, and over rocks of great height, cutting 
deep into the soft s(:hi>tiis, through which they may be half seen 
from their steep and wooded banks, rushing along in fonming 
torrents and falls, often of great height and beauty. The 
father of the present Duke of Argyle made a carriage-road to 
some of the most remarkable of these. In the latter part of its 
course, the Shira is peaceful, winding its way gently through the 
valley until it editors the Douloch, to be immediately discharged 
into the sea if it be ebb- tide, or to be stemmed for a time in its 
course if it be near high water. The tide afiects the river two 
miles from tiie sea ; and in wet weather, much injury is done to 
the surrounding crops by the waters thus stemmed overflowing 
their banks. 

The Aray is the other stream. It gives its own name to tlie 
glen through which it runs, as well cis to the parish. It rises in 
the mountains above Lochawe, and, after a course of eight miles 
through a picturesque and beautifid valley, enters the sea near the 
burgh. Its bed is rugged, and broken by several falls, two of 
which are of considerable height One of these is a mile and a« 



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INVKRAUY. 7 

half from the burgh ; the other, which is three miles distant, is 
the most remarkable. The water rushes towards the precipice 
through a narrow and broken aperture in the rock, then dashing 
from ledge to ledge, sometimes in an unbroken, sometimes in an. 
interrupted course, down a height of about sixty feet, it collects 
below into a circular basin, where it curls and eddies for some 
time before it finds its way down the narrow and fringed opening 
through which it is again hurried. In. this pool, salmon and grilse 
collect in numbers, and they may often be seen struggling in vain 
to surmount the fall, lashing the stream with their whole might, 
and gaining the first ledge only to be thrown back by the force of 
the overwhelming mass of waters. Trees and shrubs of various 
kinds and sizes surround and overhang both the fall and the basin 
below ; and a rustic bridge has been cast across the rocks imme- 
diately above, which shows how nrt may contribute to enliven and 
beautify the magnificence of nature. After passing the lower fall, 
the character of the river changes, and it glides rapidly along ar- 
tificial cascades, with wooded and verdant banks, through the |)o- 
licics and past the castle of the Duke of Argyle. Two wooden 
and three stone bridges are cast across the Aray. The smaller 
fitreams are very abundant in this as in every mountainous coun- 
try. The most considerable of these streams are, the Douglas, 
the Kilblaan burn, and others in Gleti^hira, all of which are worthy 
of being visited. 

Springs are numerous, pouring forth their waters perennially at 
a thousand different places. Several of these are slightly chaly- 
beate, and considered salutary by many. Their temperature is 
various. 

Geoloffy^, — The district generally is composed of mica^slate, 
which is nearly intersected by porphyry, and throughout it are in- 
terspersed roof-slate, limestone, chlorite rock, and greenstone. 
With quartz, iron pyrites, common schorl, &c. The mica-slate 
towards the top of the mountains is harder and heavier, containing 
the quartz in more abundance than in the valleys. In the former 
situations, accordingly, the rocks abound with garnet, especially 
in Glenaray, and occasionally with felspar; while in the latter, as 
in Glenshira, they exhibit more of the fine slaty structure bor- 
dering on clay-slate, and are so soft and friable that, not only do 
the little rills cut their way deep into the mountain, but the trail- 
ing fibres of the Rhizomorphon penetrate with ease, and extend 



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8 AllGYLESHIRE. 

for several yards throughout them. The direction of the strata 
is N. W. and S. E. ; the dip is N. E., and the inclination varies. 
The mica-slate formation would, if alone, give the form of the 
letter y to the arable portion or valleys in the parish, by the meet- 
ing of Glenaray and Glenshira near the burgh ; but about four 
miles N. N. E. of the town, Glenaray is suddenly contracted by 
a mass of rock, which appears overlaying the mica-slate, and thus 
changes the character of the valley, giving it that waving and 
varying outline of height and hollow which distinguishes a por- 
phyrittc district. This rock is red felspar porphyry, and it stretches 
along through the whole extent of the parish to the S. W«, some* 
times disappearing, sometimes jutting up far above the schistns. 
The consequence is, that the form of the parish is changed, — that 
the porphyry forms a valley on each side of it, and divides the in- 
habited portion of the parish into the form of the letter X. 

The junction of the porphyry with the mica-slate may be seen 
at many points. Sometimes, as on the east side of the mass of 
porphyry which overhangs the village called the Furoace, they 
appear together, the mica-slate changed in colour from grey to 
yellowish-brown, and, in consistency, from firmness to friableness 
and brokenness of aspect; while at other times, as two miles above 
the burgh of Inveraray, in the channel of the river, immediately 
above the third stone bridge over the Aray, the porphyry appears 
through the mica-slate, leaving the latter unchanged in colour and 
unaltered in position. At the latter place, masses of the mica- 
slate seem enclosed in porphyry. 

The porphyry varies in character. Sometimes it is composed 
wholly of felspar, with only a few crystals of quartz or lighter-co- 
loured felspar; at other times it is found with hornblende, quartz, 
and small portions of mica. Sometimes also, it is of a red, and 
at others of a grey colour. The limestone occurs frequently in 
beds in the mica-slate. It is also found interposing with mica-slate. 
A remarkable instance of this occurs in the channel of the Water 
of Douglas, above the high-road, where a section of the mountain, 
of about 100 feet in height, is exposed, consisting entirely of al- 
ternate strata of limestone and mica-slate, the strata varying in 
thickness from five inches to as many feet. A variety occurs at 
the foot of Dunqhuaich, which is used as a marble. Veins of 
greenstone also traverse the porphyry and mica-slate, but scarcely 
appearing through them. 



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INVBtlARY. 



Chlorite rock occurs frequently ; maitses of it are strewa over 
tbe mountains, and it is found in beds of great extent. Sometimes 
it appears very soft, so as to yield to tbe tools of the carpenter, and 
feels soapy, showing that it is passing into talc slate. Beds of this 
description are frequent, and the Duke of Argyle's Castle is built 
of it. As a building stone, its only fault seems to be its liabi« 
lity to crack* It is not otherwise affected by the weather, and oil 
prevents this defect from amounting to any serious eril. 

The soil near the shore consists, for the most part, of a thin 
light loam on a gravelly bottom ; at the base of the mountains 
in the valleys, and especially in Glenshira, it is a deep and dark 
loam on a sandy or clayey bottom ; and much of it is moss with 
a small quantity of earth washed down from tbe higher soils, oc- 
casionally mingled with it near the surface. The plants which 
these soils yield, depend much upon their elevation above the sea, 
but in general, the first may be said to yield species of Anemone, 
Hyacinthus, Cynosurus, Phleum, Leontodon, Rhinanthus, &c. ; 
(he second, species of Trifolium, Plantago, Bellis, Alopecurus, 
Poa, &C. ; and the third, species of Scirpus, Carex, Juneus, Vac- 
cinium, Eriophorum, &c. 

Zoology* — The following animals from among the mammalia, 
are here common. Lepu$ variabilisj or mountain hare ; Musiela 
Martesj pine martin ; M. Putorivsj or polecat ; M. erminea^ or 
ermine, but it is considered as a state only - of the Af. tmlgarisj or 
weasel ; Ursus Meks^ or badger ; Felts Caius, or wild cat ; Cer- 
VU9 damQi or fallow-deer ; C. capreolusj or roebuck ; Phoca vitU" 
/2iia,seal; Lutra vulgaris^ oiieri BalcBna MuscubtSf or Lochfyne 
whale ; Delphinus Phocana, or porpesse ; Z>. Orcoy or gram« 
pus. 

In ornithology the parish may be considered rich. The follow- 
ing is a list of the birds which either inhabit or have occasionally 
been killed in it. 



Falco ossifragua 

fulvua 

Albicilla 

.,^...,^ chrysaetos 
^.....^ Milvus 
Buteo 



. QBrUglDOSUS 

, peregrinus 
. cyaneus 

rinQanculus 



.Tin 



Falco Sabbuteo 
..^...^ Nisns 
Strix otiis 
.,>«-.>*. flammea 
^..^^^^ atridnla 
....^.■.. alula 

' .^,.,^,. brachyotos 
Lanioa excuDitor 
Picas viridia 
........^ major 

,,,.»„^ minor 



Yunx torquila 
Sitta Earopoea 
Alcodo iapida 
Certhia fiimiliaria 
Corvua Corax 

,. Corone 

^^^....^^^ frngilegua 
.,„,..■„„ Cornix 
,.„..,.^.. Monedttla 
,....^.».. glandarius 
Pica 



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ARC>YLESHIRF« 



(!urtilii»i cnnorus 
Ahiuda arvensis 

.^..^ piateiiais 

arborea 

> turn us ciDclus 
Turd us pilaris 

musicns 

,., uicnila 

.„ ^. torquatus 

AiDpelis garrnlus 
Loxia pyrrhula 

-^ cbloris 

.— » enucleator 

i^mberiza nivalis 

citrinella 

-^ .^„ schflenidut 

., , ■■■. , miliaria 

FriiigUla Ccelebs 

,^..^^. Montifrin^illa 

., ..„„ Cardoelis 

............^.^ Linota 

. ^ — Linaria 

..^ domestica 

».,.. ^ Montiam 

Muttclcapa grisola 
Motuci'lk modularis 

^ hippolais 

....,..*.......^ sabiciiriu 

»>■.>>, sylvifi 

alba 

flava 

— — «— .w-^ Rubetra 

^.n.. , (cnanthe 

rubicola 

atricapilla 

• — rubecula 



^lOtacil]n tt'O^lmlytes 

. regulutt 

■■■■. lr<K;ljilus 

Panis cff*rulenH 

w ». ater 

.— ...^ major 
.......^^ caudatuB 

fiirundo rustica 
,— ^.-...-^ riparia 
urbica 



Sterna blrnndo 
Colymbus minor 

^..■, truil« ' 

. septeDtrio- 



nalis 



. ateUatus 
,. Immer 
. cristatua 
.auritua 
.arcticns 



.■.„.,»^ apus 

CHprimuIgua Europnus 
rolumba palurobus 
Tetrao Tetiix 

M If f Lagopus 

attaffen 

......^..^ perciix 

Ardea major 
^...^ — steilaris 
Scolopax arquata 

».,....,.,. rustfcola 

^ guUinago 

»>,.. gallinuTa 

,..,.,. liroosa 

Tringa vauellus 

hypoleucos 

......M..^ morinella 

............ interpres 

— ......^ alpina 

Charadrius Hiaticula 

,>,,...., Morinellus 

Haeniutopus ostralcgiis 
Falica chloropan 

■^...1 ...^ atra 

Uallus crex 

. ^,^.„, aquaticus 



Laras trodactylns 
..^...^ hyberDDs 

caniui 

^,.,»^. cinerariua 

fuscus 

.......^ ridibuudua 

Pelecanus carlH> 
.^.^„».^.,*> Bassanus 

graculua 

Procellaria polagUm 

«■ paibnua 

Anu5 Cygrius 
-.-^ Olor 
«.— ..^ Tadorna 
— .•--^ An«cr 
—- — Segetum 
>^.-...«. erytbropua 

«^ „, Ciani^uia 

Penelope 

Crecca 

....«.«^ Hoschas 
Mergus Merganser 

Serrator 

aJbellutt 

Aica arctica 
..■■,.,... torda 



Reptiles and Serpents, — 
Rana Bufo Lacerta agilis Coluber berua 

„^ temporaria vulgaris Angais fragilis 

Lacerta aquatica 

Fishes, — Fishes are so important in an economical point of view, 
either as food or creatures of prey, that it is difficult to omit any 
of the following, the existence of several of which in this parish 
is stated upon the authority of Mr Drew, a gentleman who has 
paid much attention to this subject. 
CARTILAGINOUS Squalus AcanthiaA 

FISHES. "^ ' 

Petromyzon Marinns 



. fluviatilis . 
> brancbialis 



Haia Batia 

Oxyrinchus 

.......^ davBta 



Canicula 

Catulua 

.....^.....^ maxim us 
,.^,^»^.^ Mustelus 

^ ^ lelanonias 

...........^ piscatorius 

Acipenser atnrio* 



SyngnHtbusAcus 

Typhle 

Ophidion 

Cyclopterus lumpus 
...................^ Montigui 

OSSEOUS FISHES. 
L Apodes. 



• Tliere ta a tradition that ihcrc was a regular tturgcon fishery on Lochfyne at 
•na period. 



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INVEIUKY* 



11 



Munena angniUa 

.,,..^.> conger 

Anarlilchas Lupusi 
Amrooclytefi Tobianus 
Xi}>hia« gladias 

2. Ji;8ULARRS. 

('a]UonyiDQ9 lyra 



3- TnoBAcici. 
(lobius niger 

. ». niintitu!) 

Cottu.^ cataph rectus 
^^,.^^.. scorpius 

Z«>us tai>er 
.•..^.^ I una 



Gasterosteus pungitius 
Scomber aoomber 
... .^^.,>..^ thyDnua 
Trigla gornardus 

niniDdo 

^ cacatiia 



4- Ai 



I KALES. 



Gadus .Sglefinos 
^,'..^..^ Morrhua 

^^^^^ ]U8CU8 

„....,.,.., > erlaitgus 
...^^...^ Carbonari us 

Poilachius 

.--.^...^^ virens 

Mclva 

^^ tricirratus 

.,... .\ierlucius 

. Mustela 



dracuuculus i^leuronectes bvpoglossuaCobitis bMiMt««ia 



Blennius Ouunellus 
...-,.,-«-.— ^ viviparus 
Phoiia 



. plattfssa 
, nesus 
..,.,.^ limanda 
. solca 
. maximus 
. rhombua 
6pttru3 aaratua 

Rail 

Labrus Tinea 

^.^ ^ bimaculatua 

, — ....,,,. trimaculatus 
Perca fluviatilis 
Gasterosteus aculeatus 
,^.„^s.^. ^., j^pinachia 



Sal mo salar 

- truttik 

faiip 

lavaretua 

..........^ £perlanu8 . 

.........^ Hlpinua 

Ebox luoiua 
.......^ Bel one 

Argeotiq^ sphyrapjia 
Atherina bepaetua 
Mugil cephalutt 
Clupea barengUH 

— > sprattus 

..^..^.^ alosa 



Among the Crustacean, the Carcinus moenas^ or partan ; the Canr^ 
cer depuratory C. araneusy C. serratusy or prawn ; A^aaa gammamM^ 
or lobster ; and Crangon vulgaris^ or shrimp^ are frequently found. 
The most remarkable among the Testaceae^ as well as the most es« 
teemed, is Ostrea edulis^ or common oyster, which is found towards 
the southern end of the parish. The most common are, Lepas 
anaiifera^ Cardium edule, or cockle ; Mytilus edulia^ or common 
mussel ; Cyprea pediculis^ Bulla Jontinalis, Helix nemoralis, pa» 
lustrisj &c«; Buccinium lapilius, Patella vuigataf Sabella alveo* 
lata^ &c. &c. 

The entomologist may be richly rewarded here for his toils. 
Every stone gives shelter to some tiny inhabitant ; every shrujb and 
flower has its own gay visitant ; the sun shines at noon on swarms 
of Papiliot iu full splendour of costume ; the evening is welcomed 
by the silent soft gliding of the PhalceruB ; and the Lampyrus noc' 
tiiucusy (or glowworm,) avails herself of the darkness of night to set 
forth the attractions of a phosphoric garb. Among numerous in- 
sects which have been found here by Mr Drew, the following 
may be mentioned as rare in Scotland : 



Carabus eaten ulatus 
.......v...,^ clatbratus 

>.,,.,..^,,>, nitens 
.......^..•..^ arvensU 

Uarpalus obscurus 

.„., femigineua 

Blethisa multipunctata 



Poecilus cupreus 
Broscus cephalotes 
1 >romiua rufescens 
Geotrupes vemalis 
Cetonia aurata 
Apoderus coryli 
Clytus arietis 



Leptura giiadrifaclata 
Chrysoniela cariaria 

graminis 

.^ margin ella 



Clytbra quadripunctata 
Melitsea Euphrosyne 
Saturnia pavonia 



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12 



AUGYLeSHlllE. 



Botany, — This parish is not distinguished for a great variety of 
cotyledonous plants, neither is it remarkable for many rare alpine 
species. Of dicotyledonous plants, the following are worthy of 
notice, as occurring more or less abundantly. 



Azalea procumbens 
Convolvulus sepiam 
Jasione montana 
Atropa Belladonna 
Lobellia Dortmanna 
Lig^usticom meum 
Viburnum opulus 
Epilobium an^nstifoliui] 
p alsini folium 
, alpinum 



Polygonum Bistorta 
Saximiga stellaris 

,»^ oppoflitifolia 

nivalis 

Vaccinium Mvrtillus 

, »,.^^ Uliginosum 

»,..^>»^^,>,^ uva-ursi 

I ^ Vitis Idfloa 

Arbutus Uva Urei 
Lychnis Flos Cuculi 



Rubus snberectus 
........^ Sazatilis 

Kuphar lutea 
Anemone nemorosa 
Stacbys ambififua 
Uieraclum alpinum 

sylvaticum 

Rhodiola rosea 
Juniperus communis 



The following moncotyledonous plants also occur : 

Scirpus lacustris Hyacinth us non-scriptns Listera Nidus- A vis 

Allium ursinum Tofieldia palustris Uabenaria viridis 

In acotyledonous plants the parish is rich. Several species of 
Lycopodium are found abundantly. The Osmunda regalis^ Ophio^ 
glossum vulgatumf HymenaphyUam T\Lnbridgen8e^ Aspidium Icbatum^ 
&C. are very frequent. 

The^ constant rains, deep fissures, shady banks, and aged trees 
are favourable to the growth of Musci^ which accordingly abound. 
It would serve no purpose to mention them all ; but the following 
list will be interesting to the muscologist. 



Andrea alpina Tetraphis Browniana 

,^^»,.^. rupestrb Conostomum boreal e 

Gymno3tomum viridissi-Tortula gracilis 

mum Encal^pta streptocarpa 
>,^.,,»,..„^,... Donia* Weiss la Templetoni 

num Dicranum fulvellum 



Neckera pumila 
Hookeria lucens 
Hypnum rufescens 

Crista castren- 

sis 
Bryum julaceum 



Adipodium GriffithianumZygodon conoideum 

The Jungermannise are also abundant, such as J, julacea^ J. 
jnniperinai J, bicuspidata^ c7. complanatuy &c. 

Lichens cling to every aged tree and moltle every stone and rock 
with grey. This did not escape the notice of the first and great- 
est of Gaelic poets, whose remembrance of the past was awaken- 
ed by the graves of the dead marked by " four grey stones," 
'* with their heads of moss.'' (Ossian.) The following, with many 
others, are found here. 



Lecidea mycrophylla 

„,. luteola 

Solon na crocea 
Variolaria anaara 
Lecanora erythrella 

^ tartarea 

Parmelia glomulifera 



Parmelia plumbea 

, rubiginosa 

ompnalodes 

Cetraria fallax 

,> ^„. Islandica 

Sticta pulmonaria 
.^.....M.^ sylvatica 



Sticta fuliginosa 
Peltidea scutata 
Nephroma resupinata 
Usnea florida 
Collema Burgessii 



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, INVEBARY. ^3 

Algae. — The most common are^ 

Scytonema atrovirena Ceramiam tomentosum Facos vesiculosus 

Zygnema quininum Hutchinsea festigiata serratus 

Conferva ericetoram Ulva Lioga Delesseria sanguinea 

.,.M.^,..>..,. rivularia intestinalis 

Ceramiam rubrum Faciis nodosus 

Fungu — The fungi abound in the woods, covering every rotten 
stump, and mottling the ground. The following may be mention- 
ed as of frequent occurrence : 

^ Sphseria maltiformU Agaricus elephantinus Thelephora ]aciniata 

>■, .,.,, pugiformis adul- squarrosus Polyporas sqiiamosus 

ta •.««.....,...^ lacteus sulphureus 

...^ coociaea ,>,^^>^^,^, acris .m...............,..^ fomentarius 

Bovista nigrescens Boletus bovinua igniarius 

Lycoperdon giganteum ............^ edulis .„».„, .,. perennis 

Agaricus campestris Hydnum paradoxnm Cantbarellus cibarius 

Woods. — In an economical point of view, the woods form a very 
important feature in this parish. They are extensive and valuable, 
covering almost all the subalpine district. The number of acres 
enclosed cannot be ascertained with perfect accuracy ; but it is be- 
lieved that they cannot be fewer than 9000 acres. Perhaps 12,000 
may be a nearer approximation to the truth. Much of the ground 
enclosed, however, has either never been planted or has ceased to 
yield trees of any kind ; much of it is covered with brushwood, 
heath, Vaccinium myrtittm^ V. uliginosum^ &c. Much has also 
been injudiciously managed, so that from the acres enclosed, a 
great number must be subtracted as unproductive. 

The earliest plantations are said to have been made by the Mar- 
quis of Ai^le and the Earl, his son, who, in laying the founda* 
tion of the plan for improving and beautifying this property, have 
left evidence of the enlarged minds and cultivated taste they pos- 
sessed. The portions planted by them are said to be Dunchuaich, 
the heights above the castle, the lawn, and the beech avenue at 
the entrance to Glenshira. The trees planted were principally 
oak, Scotch fir, ash, beech, and plane. The wages of the labour- 
ers employed, as seeii by a jotting of the operations then carried on, 
which is dated 1674, were *^ 4d. or one peck of oatmeal per day.'* 

The *next extensive plantation is supposed to have been of 
Leachdan Mor, Dalcbenna, &c by Archibald Duke of Argyle, 
who, in 1746, sowed and raised from seed the noble trees which 
grow on these farms. There is an individual now livyig in Glen- 
aray who remembers that event, and points out a Scotch fir at the 
west end of the Foal's Bridge, or Drochaig an tshearraich, as the 



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U ARGYLKSHIRE. 

only remaining tree of a long avenue of tbesame kind which extend- 
ed towards the Duke's office-houses, and which was also supiiOs«d 
to be planted by the Marquis of Argyle. 

In I77I9 another great addition was made to the plantalious. 
John Duke of Argyle (father of the kte and present Duke) plant- 
ed in 1805 the hill above the Douloch, on the north-west. The 
late Duke in 1807 and 1808 planted the whole of that hill called 
Stron-shira, an important and valuable addition to the woods. 
From that period till 1831,- rhe woods were less atrended to, but 
at that date draining was begun as a preparative to further plant- 
ing, and since, they have been rapidly increasing in extent, beau- 
ty, and quality. The vacancies which lime or former partial 
planting caused in the enclosures are now in the course of being 
filled up, and it was proposed by the late Duke to go over the 
whole in about twenty years. The course of improvement was be- 
gun in the spring of 183*2, and was carried on annually* at the 



Total planted for 5 years, 108,000 94,000 76,000 78,000 59,100 
The plan is still carried on, and its completion will add much to 
the value and beauty of the parish. 

The lands on which these were planted were formerly enclosed 
and supplied with many seedlings and stoob. For the most part 
also, they were heathy moor soil, more or less precipitous and 
rocky, being peat moss incumbent on clay, or a sandy loam, or a 
light gravelly siliceous earth. 

The only preparation of which such soils are capable, are fen- 
cing and draining. They receive both. The plants chosen are 

* Under the management of Mr Robert Campbell, to wbom I am indebted for al* 
ramt aJl the facu connected with this tubjcct. 



Tre«9 planted. 


18.32. 


1833. 


183*. 


1835. 


1836. 


Oak, ... . 


OJ.XIO 


o?,00l> 


:;o,ooo 


35,000 


15,0J0 


lArcb, 


12,000 


15,000 


20.000 


ir^.oco 


17.000 


8cotcb fir, • . • 


18,000 


12,000 


13,000 


10,000 


10,000 


Norway spruce, 


5,000 


5,000 








White American spruce, 


5,000 


10,000 


8,000 


10,000 


2,000 


Black American spruce. 


5,000 


5,000 




5,000 


10,000 


.Silver fir, . . . 


3,000 


5.000 






5/)U0 


Plane, 


2,000 


2,000 


5,000 


2,000 




Turkey oak, . • . 


2,000 


2,000 




500 




Oriental audoccidcutal planes, 1,000 


500 








Laburnum, 




500 




5,000 




Scarlet oak. 










50 


Lime, 










50 



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INVIittARV. 15 

at different ages, according to circumstances. Oaks for planting 
among long herbage are taken from the nursery, at three years old 
transplanted ; if the herbage be shorter, at two years transplanted. 
Firs are generally taken after one year transplanted. 

Nursery plants are chosen as a cheaper and surer plan, than 
raising fcam seeds on the timber site, on such soils as are found here. 

Siit planting is that pursued for firs, as being the most simple 
and practicable on soil in its natural state. Oaks and all hard 
woods are pitted in by holing. The boles are dug about eighteen 
inches square, and the trees are set immediately while the earth is 
fresh, because it has been found by experience, that when the 
holes are long open, or exposed to the influence of the weather 
during the winter, they fill with water, become encrusted with 
clay or other earth, which retains so much moisture as to prove pre* 
judicial to the tender fibres of the plants. 

The plants are set at the rate of t3500 in the acre, or four feet 
apart. After nine years, they get the first thinning, and at from 
fifteen to eighteen years they are thinned out to nine feet apart or 
676 in the acre. Mixed planting is preferred as the most profit- 
able a8 well as the most ornamental. 

Oaks are also raised by selecting the straightest and strongest 
shoots of coppice stools, as are also ash, elm, and others posses- 
sing a reproductive power. These coppices are thinned at the age 
of eight years, about which time the brushwood growing among 
the plantations is also cut down. These thinnings are all either 
employed on the estate for fences or sent to market, and the pro- 
duce defrays the expense of keeping the woods clean. Owing to 
the number of standards left at former cuttings, nineteen years are 
considered sufficient to render the copsewood again fit for cutting, 
though standards have not recently been kept to become timber 
trees, except in situations where it was necessary to consider what 
was ornamenUil rnlher than what might be useful. 

When the woods are cut and the trees barked, the bark is dried 
on what is termed lofts, being forked stakes driven into the ground 
in two rows, and from two to three feet in height, and by laying 
bars across on these forked bearers, floors are made on which the 
bark is laid ; that of the branches and youngest wood being placed 
beneath, and the broader pidces of the larger timber over them. 
After remaining in this state for some time, it is stored in bark 
barns, formed of the straightest and smallest of the trees, so placed 



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16 ARGYLBSHIRE. 

as to admit the air freely and to support a thatched roof. The 
quantity of bark produced here by an acre of coppice varies with 
the age and crop of the trees, but generally it takes from 100 to 
160 feet of oak timber to yield one ton of bark. The larch is not 
barked. 

The timber is conveyed to the shore or saw-pit at an expense of 
2^d. per cubic foot. Much of it is used for various purposes on 
the estate, and much is also sent to market, where it commands a 
ready sale. The closeness of its Gbrous texture may be estimated 
by its weight, according to the following table : 





Cubic feet Ton. 


Cubic feet. Ton 


Oak, . 


25 1 


Scotch fir, . 26 I 


Ash, 


30 1 


Larch, . . 30 I 


Beecb, 


20 1 




Elm, 


26 1 


Black do. • 23 I 


Alder, 


32 to 33 1 


Birch, . . 28 1 



The climate, though variable, is favourable to the growth of 
trees,* and when the nature of the soil in which they are planted 
is considered, their increase must be deemed rapid. When the 
summer is cold, the sap must flow in a diminished quantity, and 
the circular lines exhibited on the transverse section of the trees 
is a sure indication of the season in which it became wood. 
The following table exhibits the growth of a few of the trees 
planted in 1674 or afterwards, Grst from that period to 1798,^ and 
again, from 1798 to this date, and manifests the rate of their in- 
crease. The table exhibits their circumference Gve feet above the 
ground. 

Planted in 

1674. 
Oak, '. 
Plane, 
Scotch fir. 
Beech, 
Ash, 

Spanish chestnut, 
Larch, 
Silver fir, 
Enf^lish elm. 

The tallest of these trees has a stem of sixty feet ; the others are 
all lofty. 

The following table exhibits an average of the circumference of 
four trees, measured from clumps planted in 1771, 1805, and 1808. 

* In the neighbouring parish, Glenurchy, and on the farm of Aehalsder, there 
was, some years ago, a decaying oak of great length, which, after it had lost both the 
bark and white woody was 16 feet in circumference. 

+ See Dr Smithes Agricuhural Report of Argyleshire. 



Meas. in 


Meas. in 


Meas. in 


Meas. in 


1798. 


1833. 


1835. 


1836. 


9*4 feet 


10-10^ feet. 


10-11 feet. 


101 H feet. 


94 


12-5 


12-7 





10- 


10'7J 


10-9 


10-9i 


14- 


16- 


— 


16-4 


10-10 


.... 


-.- 


12-5 


12-6 


160i 


16-3J 


16-5 


6-6 


9-4 


— 


^-. 


90 





— 


n-8A 


80 


— 


— 


10-44 



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INVERARY. 17 

These trees were taken, not as the largest, but as the most con* 
venient, on entering the several clumps. They are marked as the 
above in feet and inches. They were measured in ]836. 

Planted in 1771, larch, 8.o|feet; Scotch fir, 5.5^; spruce, 
6.2^; beech, 6.2; oak, 5.6; laburnum, 5.1. Planted in 1808, 
larch, 3.1 H feet ; Scotch fir, 2.6 ; silver fir, 3.8f ; spruce, 2. 1 IJ ; 
beech, 2.4| ; ash, 3.d| ; oak, 2.2^ ; laburnum, 2.8 ; alder, 2.9^. 

The above plantations are fair specimens of the increase or 
growth of trees in this parish. 

There are several avenues of great beauty, the principal of which 
are, a lime avenue, which leads from the castle to Essachosan ; a 
beech avenue leading to Glenshira, and another of the same kind 
behind and parallel with the burgh. 

There are also many trees worthy of notice on account of their 
great size and beauty* There is a lime growing near Essachosan 
called the marriage tree, on account of the union of its branches, 
which is often visited by travellers. From a bole of considerable 
size, it throws out two principal branches a little above the ground, 
which are firmly knit together at about twenty feet above the point 
of separation, by a bar or branch formed of a process issuing from 
one, or probably from both. It appears like a cross bar for hold- 
ing the two branches together, and is a provision of nature against 
the destruction of such trees as grow in this forked manner, which 
is by no means uncommon. It may be seen on numberless npniritu^, 
firs which frequently grow in this form, and which, with their long 
stems, heavy tops, and ever-green foliage, present a large surface 
to the winter storms. 

It is worthy of remark, that wherever the Wych elm grows, it 
stretches its principal branches towards the prevailing wind, and 
even when growing on the shore, that it seems to court and luxu* 
riate in the breeze, thus pointing out the means of planting those 
bleak shore lands where every other tree perishes. It may at least 
be worthy of trial in such situations. 

II. — Civil History. 
Th^ early history of this parish may be presumed to correspond 
in a great measure with that of other Highland districts, which 
were, like it, possessed by many small proprietors. We can only 
conjecture from imperfect traditions what were the social habits of 
its early inhabitants ; but every account would lead us to consider 
them warlike and turbulent, yet faithful, friendly, and hospitable, 

ARGYLB. B 



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18 ARGYLKSHIRE. 

mingling generosity with implacability of temper, and superstition 
with piety. 

It was not till the fourteenth century that the family of Argyle 
settled in this parish, and since then it has been principally dis- 
tinguished as their residence. By what right, whether of purchase 
or the sword, or by grant from the sovereign, they first obtained 
their possessions here, is uncertain ; but it was not till a recent 
date that the whole parish became their property, by that gradual 
and natural process by which talent, intelligence, and power extend 
their influence. 

As the names of the early possessors of the soil may soon sink 
into oblivion, it may not be improper to record them here in so far 
as they can be traced. 

The Maclvers held part of the lawn on which the castle is built, 
and a large stone standing erect there is said to have been in part 
the boundary between them and the Mac Vicars, who held the 
other portion of the lawn, with Kilmilieu, Stronmagachan, Upper 
Kenchreggan, Leachd-nam-ban, Kilmun, Salachary, Achnabreck^ 
Dalchenna, and Achnagol. 

The MacNaughtens held all the east side of Glenshira, con« 
fiisting of Kilblane, Ellerig, and Benbhui ; also Tullich in Glen* 
aray. They sold Kilblane, or granted it to the MacKellars. 

The MacNicols held Elerig M^r and Elerig Beag. 

The Clerks possessed Braleckan, Craleckan, Claonary, and, it 
is supposed, Kenmore, and Pennymor. 

The MacKellars, — Maam, Lower Kenchreggan, and Kilblaan 
and Stuchdasgardan. 

The Munros, — Stuchdaghavi. 

The Turners, — Drimlee. 

The -Fletchers, — Drimfearn. 

Of the above faunlies, the M'Naughtens, who were by much 
the most powerful, with the Fletchers and Movers, have now no 
descendants in the parish. The Turners, MacNicols, MacKel* 
lars, and Clerks possessed their lands till towards the middle or 
end of the last century. 

Little is known of the history of this parish during the four* 
teenth, fifteenth, and sixteenth centuries; but we may suppose 
that the feuds by which many other portions of the Highlands 
were torn could not exist here along with the unrivalled power of 
the family of Argyle ; and, as the practice of that fiunily was to 
extend their authority by policy rather than by violence, their in- 



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INVERARY. 19 

fluence would be felt less degrading, and their arbitration accept- 
ed with less reluctance. Their frequent residence here must also 
have modified the views and softened the manners of their depend- 
ents; and probably also the military operations, in which they 
were frequently engaged, might be the means of diffusing among 
their retainers and followers an acquaintance with the habits of 
their southern and more civilized countrymen. But, whatever the 
reason may be, so it is that we have no accounts of petty warfares, 
and jealous chieftains, and cruel oppressions connected with this 
parish. 

Any movements here seem to have arisen rather from religious 
than civil causes. Archibald, the fourth Earl of Argyle, succeed- 
ed to the estate and titles of his father in 1542,* and embraced 
the principles of Protestantism at an early period of the Reforma- 
tion. His influence and example, it is believed, kindled the war 
of opinion speedily amon^ the people, and, on his death-bed, he 
bequeathed to his son Archibald, the fifth Earl of Argyle, those 
principles which he himself valued so dear. 

The son possessed the wisdom, and followed the councils of 
bis father, giving thereby steadiness to the impulse which the 
cause of truth had here received. 

About this time, also, Mr John M' Vicar, a native of this pa- 
rish, and proprietor of Stronmagachan, renounced Popery. He 
was educated at Rome, and received orders from the Popish 
church, but, embracing the principles of the Reformation, he mi- 
nistered in this parish, seemingly with the charity and the wisdom 
that are so proper and so valuable during times in which the views 
of men are undergoing any great transition. A man of command- 
ing talents and devoted piety, surrounded by many family connec- 
tions, and with strong convictions in his own mind, the parson of 
Kilmilieu, as he is still femiliarly called, feared not to avow his 
views of truth, and to maintain them in the face of rank and power ; 
while, by being all things to all men, Roman Catholics and Pro- 
testants vied with each other in their respect for him. The writer 
has obtained a large stone, about thirteen inches in height, and 
two feet in diameter, cut into an octagonal form, with a font above 
and below, once the property of Mr M^ Vicar, and which he used 
in the baptism of Protestants and Roman Catholics, by turning 
either side, for u)ater or hoiy toater^ according to the opinions or 
prejudices of bis people. The fact may instruct us in the religious 

* I.ife of John Duke of Argyle, paj^e 11, 

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20 AUGYLESHIRB. 

condition of the people. His memory is still respected, and his 
sayings deemed oracular. 

In 1644, this, like other portions of Argyleshire, was ravaged 
by a body of Irish, sent by the Marquis of Antrim, under the 
command of Alexander M'Donnel, aided by Montrose, and nei- 
ther age nor sex formed any security against the savage and in* 
discriminate fury with which they butchered. During the short 
time that the Marquis of Argyle was employed in collecting a 
force to repel this sudden incursion, houses and woods were burnt, 
cattle were destroyed, and the sword spared none whom it could 
reach. 

The sufferings of this country at this period were great, per- 
sonal security could not be enjoyed, in the midst of the disturban- 
ces that prevailed. Thus, in October 1644, the synod of Argyle 
could not convene at Inverary or elsewhere, according to appoint- 
ment, nor yet in the month of May following, as was usual. So 
the record of their meeting at Inverary, in 1645, states, " that, 
in regard to the diverse and manifold distractions wherewith it 
pleased God to suffer this province to be troubled thir years by- 
past, it was impossible to keep the dyet appointed by last pro- 
vincial or any else before this present, which was appointed by the 
moderator."* Their next meeting, for the same reason, was not 
till September 1646, when it is said, << All the absents are excus- 
ed, because of the troubles of the country, and of their being scat- 
tered and chased frae their dwellings. The presbytery of Cowal 
having gone for shelter to the Lowlands, the presbytery of Kin- 
tyre being under the power of the rebels, and none being re- 
sident in the presbytery of Argyle and Lorn, but such as were 
sheltered in garrisons, and no ruling elder present.'' 

In 1650, circumstances were so far changed, that many per- 
sons came here from the low country, probably as a place of re- 
fuge, and it became necessary that the English language should 
be preached to them. Accordingly, in November of this year, 
a second minister was appointed for the Lowland congregation, 
when ^* the Marquis of Argyll and Lord Lome were chosen el- 

ders."t 

After the execution of the Marquis of Argyle, in 1661, for his 
Btedfast adherence to the principles of the Reformation, the mi- 
nister of the Lowland congregation was outed by a particular sen*- 

* Recoid of the Syr.od of A i gyle. f Record of kirk-seuion. 

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INVERAUV* 21 

tence of Parliament ; but there remains a small volume of the re- 
cords of the kirk-session of the Highland charge, extending from 
September 1677 to 1683, in the jottings of which, the minister 
of that congregation is represented acting as moderator until 
1679, when the business seems to have been transacted without 
a moderator. 

During the period from 1661 to 1687, the parish, it is sup- 
posed, was placed under a curate named John Lindsay, whose 
presentation to be minister in the kirk of Inverary, signed 
James R., and dated 29 th October 1685, is among the papers of 
the synod of Argyle. After the Revolution, he conformed to 
Presbyterianism, and became minister within the bounds of the 
synod. 

In 1685, when the Earl of Argyle fell, like his father, a sacri- 
fice to his love of his country, this parish became the head quar- 
ters of soldiers, placed here by the order of the Marquis of Athole, 
to whose protection this country was entrusted by his sovereign. 
Among many acts of lawless violence committed during nearly 
three years that they remained here plundering and oppressing, 
they executed, without the form of a trial, seventeen gentlemen 
of the name of Campbell. 

A small but simple and chaste monument of chlorite is erected 
close to the church to commemorate their death. 

In J 687, the synod of Argyle availed itself of the Act of Tole- 
ration passed in July of that year, and met at Kilmichael Glas- 
sary. The melancholy words with which the record begins, re- 
late the state of the counfry during the prevalence of Episcopacy. 
They are these : Sederunt, — " The small remnant of the Presby- 
terian ministers yet extant after the public troubles, and residing 
within the bounds of the synod of Argyle." That remnant was 
six, and three are mentioned as living in Glasgow. The Rev. 
Patrick Cajppbell, minister of the Highland congregation of In- 
verary, was of the former number, and the Rev. Alexander Gor- 
don, of the Lowland congregation, was of the latter. 

From the Revolution to the present time, the history of this 
parish presents few incidents worthy of notice. In the troubles of 
1715 and 1745 the whole population manifested a spirit of loyal- 
ty. With these exceptions, the voice of war has not been heard, 
and the parish has been gradually undergoing those changes which 
peace, a paternal government, and a succession of proprietors who 
have been at all times the friends and patrons of their people 



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22 ARGYLESHIRE. 

with an established system of religious truth, could not fail to prd- 
duce. 

Eminent Men, — The ediinent characters of which this parish can 
boast appear principally in one distinguished family. In the family 
of Argyle, there has been, from time immemorial, a succession of 
men, almost all of whom have been great and dear in the estimation 
of their country. " I know of no family in Europe of this emineo* 
cy," says Wodrow,* " whom the Lord hath honored so much as this 
of Argyll/' Among such men, whose reputation is the property 
of their country, and engraved on every page of her story, the 
martyred Marquis and his martyred son cannot, and ought not, 
in a publication of this nature, to be omitted ; <^ for, to all persons 
of consideration and reflection," says the same historian, " they 
both shine brightly as martyrs for religion and their country, and 
it is beyond contradiction the Lord owned them both, and sealed 
a deep sense of his favour upon their souls." Equally improper 
would it be not to particularize Archibald, the first Duke of Ar* 
gyle, with his two sons, Duke John, and Duke Archibald, who 
were among the most accomplished statesmen and distinguished 
generals of their times. 

The memory of the Rev. John M'Vicar, a native and mi- 
nister of this parish, is cherished by the people, and is worthy of 
being preserved. 

The Rev. George Campbell, Professor of Divinity in the Uni- 
versity of Edinburgh, a man called by Wodrow " singularly mo- 
dest and excellent," was also a native of this parish, and the son 
of George Campbell, the first Writer who settled here, and after- 
wards Sherifl^- substitute. 

The Rev. Claudius Buchanan, so much and justly estimated, 
spent his early years in this parish, his father having been teacher 
of the grammar school. 

The late Major- Generals Charles Turner, Dugald Campbell, 
and Duncan Campbell, were also natives of the parish ; and so is 
Mr William Napier, known throughout the world for his improved 
printing-press, &c 

Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers consist, !«/, of 
the records of baptisms and marriages. Vol. i. extending from 
1661 to July 8^ 1688. ; Vol. ii. from December 1699 to Decem- 
ber 1763; Vol. iii. from January 1764 to January 1790; Vol. iv. 

" History of the Sufferings of the Chureh of Scotland. Fol ed. page 545. 



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INVERAKY. 23 

from July 1790 to December 1817; and Vol. v. from January 
1818 to the present time. There is also a volume in bad order, 
which belonged to the kirk-session of the Highland congregation, 
extending from 1730 to 1735. 

2d^ The records of the kirk-sessions of the Highland and Low* 
land congregations, these being, 1«/, the records of the former in 
one volume, extending from May 1701 to February 1729; and, 
2df the records of the latter. Vol. i. extending from November 
25, 1650, when that congregation 6rst obtained the services of a 
separate minister, to August 29, 1662; Vol. ii. a small 4to, in 
bad order, from 1677 to 1683; Vol. iii. from 1699 to 1724; 
Vol. iv. from 1724 to 1745, is lost 

dcf. The records of the United Sessions of the Highland and 
Lowland Congregations, Vol. i. extending from May 1745 to 
March 1755; Vol. ii. lost; Vol. iii. from August 3, 1777 to 
December 8, 1813; Vol. iv, from 1814 to January 26, 1831 ; 
and Vol. v. from 1831 to the present time. 

The records of the presbytery of Inverary, and of the synod 
of Argyle, though not limited to this parish, may, perhaps with 
propriety, be here stated to be as follow : The records of the 
presbytery of Inverary, before the Revolution, are lost, having 
probably been removed during the troubles of the times, or been 
taken, like those of the synod of Argyle, into the keeping of the 
Bishop of Argyle, though not recovered as the latter were. 
The oldest record, beginning October 13, 1691, is the tenth oher 
the restoration of presbytery, but the minutes of the previous nine 
meetings are torn out. It extends to the 25th February 1 702. 
Vol. ii. begins April 1715, and is complete, 27th September 
1725, when there is a chasm to 7th August 1731, and it ends 
January 15, 1745. Vol. iii. is from March 26, 1745, to 17th 
May 1763; Vol. iv. from April 27, 1769, to I2th September 
1828; Vol. V. from that period to the present time* 

The records of the synod of Argyle are. Vol. i. from April 1639 
to October 1651 ; Vol. ii. from May 1652 to May 1662 ; Vol. iii. 
from September 1687, to October 1700 ; Vol. iv. from 1 Ith June 
1701, to 29th July 1707 ; Vol. v. from 1 2th May 1708, to Au- 
gust 7, 1727; Vol. vi. from 7th August 1728, to 11th August 
1755; Vol. vii. from August 4, 1756, to August 11, 1755; Vol. 
▼ill. from 7th August 1776, to August 3, 1809,- Vol. ix. from 
August 4, 1809, to the present time. The three first volumes 



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24 ARGYLESHIKE. 

have been copied in a more legible form, and in a modern hand, 
and of these the synod possesses duplicates. 

The proceedings of the Committee of Parliament, appointed 
for the valuation of the teinds of Argyleshire, which sat in Inverary 
in 1629 and 1630, once formed a part of the records in posses- 
sion of the synod of Argyle, as did also the report of the Commis- 
sion for Plantation of Churches appointed by an unprinted Act of 
Parliament,* dated January 21, 1649, and which met in Inverary. 
Both were removed to the Teind Office, Edinburgh. It is believed 
that the only papers now in the possession of the synod that re- 
spect the actings of that commission are nine acts, extracted under 
the hand of John Yuill, clerk to the commissioners, dated 17th 
October 1750, continuing the summons raised before them for 
planting, dividing, and dismembering of the parishes of Kilchrenan, 
Clachandysart, and Inishail, Lochgoilhead, Kilmorich, Kilmaglass, 
and Kilmore, Kilmichael and Glassarie, Kilchattane and Kilbran- 
don, Kilmichall, Inverglussay, and Kilmadocharmuk, Kilmaluag, 
and Kilcallmikill, and Kilmore, and Kilbryde. 

The lowland congregation of Inverary was formed into a sepa- 
rate erection or cure by a decreet of modification and locality, pro- 
nounced by the commissioners, dated 26th December 1651. 
The following Presbyterian ministers officiated in Inverary : 
Undivided Congregations. — Donald Macllvory, inducted 168& 
Gaelic Congregation. — Patrick Campbell, inducted 1657, died 
1700; Alexander Campbell, inducted 1701, died 1734; Alex- 
ander Campbell, inducted 1734, translated 1745; Patrick Camp- 
bell, inducted 1745, died 1773; Archibald Campbelli inducted 

1774, died 1805; James M'Gibbon, inducted 1807, died 1830; 
Colin Smith, inducted 1831. 

English Congregation. — Alexander Gordon, inducted 1650, died 
1713; Daniel Mackay, assistant, inducted 1699, translated 1711 ; 
James Getty, assistant and successor, inducted 1711, died 1745 ; 
Alexander Campbell, inducted 1745, died 1764; John M^Aulay, 
inducted 1765, translated 1774; Alexander M^Tavish, inducted 

1775, died 1787 ; Paul Fraser, inducted 1788, died 1827; Angus 
M'Laine, assistant and successor, inducted 1825, translated 1827 ; 
Colin Smith, inducted 1828, translated 1831 ; Duncan Campbell, 
inducted 1832. 

Antiquities. — The only vestiges of ancient buildings in the pa- 

* See former Sttlistical Account of this parish. 
3 



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1NVERAKY. 25 

rish are those of an old fort at Duuchuaich ; those of the castle of 
the Laird of MacNaughten, on the banks of the Douloch, with, 
those of religious houses at Kilbryde and Achantiobairt. At the 
latter place, there were lately several stone crosses of considerable 
size, and in good preservation. Nothing is found there now but 
the fragments of a cross of roof-slate, which fills up a chasm in a 
turf fence. It bears no inscription. It seems to have been a sta- 
tion of some importance. It is elevated above Lochfyne about 500 
feet, and commands an extensive view. At the base of the hill 
oD which it is situated, and close to the present farm-house of 
Pennymore, there was also a few years ngo a curiously construct- 
ed stone stair which, it was supposed, was intended to lead to the 
religious house above« 

There is also a stone cross in the parish, which was probably 
brought from lona, and which was for many years the town cross 
of Inverary. It was removed when the old town was knocked 
down, and lay long neglected, but it is restored now to its former 
office, and stands at the end of the principal street. 

On one of its narrow sides there is an inscription in Lombardic 
characters as follows : ^' Haec est crux nobilium virorum videlicet 
Dondcani M^Eugyllichomghnan Patrici filii ejus et Maelmore 
filii Patrici qui banc crucem fieri faciebat.'' 

In the burial-ground there are also three flags, which are sup- 
posed to have been taken from lona. They were probably remov- 
ed after the act of the convention of estates, in 1561, for demo- 
lishing all the abbeys of monks, &c. On two there* is no impres- 
sion but a two-handed sword. The third is more curiously carved. 
Would it not be right that such relics as these, wherever found, 
should be returned ? 

A large stone, resembling the relics of Druidical times, stands 
in the lawn close to the castle. There is no tradition regarding 
it, farther than that it marked at one point the boundary between 
the lands of the M'lvorsand M* Vicars, as already mentioned. 

There is a round mound of earth between the present burial- 
ground and the river Array, which was the old burial-ground of 
Kilmilieu, consecrated in Popish times. The present site was 
chosen, it is said, by the Protestants after the Reformation, in con- 
sequence of being prevented by the religious prejudices of the 
Roman Catholics, from burying their dead in the same dust A 
few trees are now growing on the top of the mound ; and near to 



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26 AK6TLB8HIRB. 

these, bofies have been found in the meaiory of an individual 
lately living. 

There were in the parish several places of burial in ancient 
times, and in which children and infants were interred in the last 
century. These are Kilmun, (called after St Munde), Glenaray 
Kilblane, (after St Blane), Glenshira, Kilbryde, and Kilian, 
(named in honour of St Bride and Kilian), and Achantiobairt. 

There is a bridge over the water of Douglass, on the road 
which leads to the house of Claonary, three miles and a-balf to 
the west of the burgh, so ancient that the date of its building .is 
unknown. The arch forms a segment of a circle, and it is there- 
fore called the Roman Bridge. The house in which Rob Roy 
M'Gregor received wood and water from the Duke of Argyle 
while he lived at the expense of the Duke of Montrose, still stands 
on the farm of Benbuy, the most remote house in the parish. 

Modem Buildings. — Inverary Castle was begun in 1745, and 
finished a few years after. It stands a few yards to the west of the 
site of the former castle, and is built of chlorite slate passing into 
talc, — a stone which stands the weather well, and the colour of 
which accords with the scenery. It is a square building, three 
stories in height, with a tower at each corner, and a high glazed 
pavilion shooting from the centre. 

There are two churches under one roof, which are divided by 

a wall. It is a long and inelegant structure, with a spire rising from 

the centre of the roof. Itlookswell, however, at a distance, and forms 

a handsome termination to the street, on approaching the town. 

The jail and county house are buiU of the porphyry of the district. 

1 1 1. — Population. 
There are no means of ascertaining what the population of this 
parish was in ancient times. The quantity of land in cultivation was 
indeed greater formerly than at present, and farms were in many 
cases smaller, — facts which, on first consideration, would lead us to 
infer that the population was proportionably n>ore numerous ; but, 
when it is remembered that the outfield and poorer soils formed the 
excess of the cultivation ; that farming was not understood ; that the 
seed was seldom changed ; and that potatoes, as well as the present 
breed of sheep, were unknown, it must be granted that the greater 
quantity of land formerly in tillage forms nojust ground for imagin* 
ing that the population has decreased. Glenshira has, indeed, been 
depopulated by forming large sheep-walks, but the villages have 
increased in number and extent ; and otherwise the noble proprie- 



• 

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492 


621 


258 


1113 


519 


618 


252 


1137 


520 


597 


247 • 


1117 


592 


641 


262 


1233 



INVBRARY. 27 

• 
tors, one after another, have manifested a decided reldctance to 
add to their own wealth by removing the smaller tenants. The 
census in 1755 gave 2751, while that in 1792 gave only 1832; 
but the former was taken during an unusually crowded state of the 
population, and the latter, when, owing to some {bmporary causes, 
it appears to have been below the average. 

The following table shows the state of the population by the 
census of 1811, 1821, 1831, and 1841. 

Population of the landward district Population of the burgh. 

Males. Fern Families. Total. Males. Fern. Families. Total 

1811, 467 481 174 948 

1821, 542 535 195 1077 
1831, 542 474 183 1016 
1841, 345 499 198 1044 

Of the above numbers there live in the village of the Furnace, 
75 ; in the village of Kenmore, 1 37 ; in the village of Achan- 
draine, 76 ; in that of Claonary, 52 ; and in Achnagol, 86, — 
making the total population of the villages, 373. The remain- 
ing are scattered in single families, or nearly so, throughout the 
parish. There is no register of deaths. The average of births 
and marriages is sis follows : 

179O-180O. 
Births, 64t\j 

Marriages, 14^^ 

There are insane or fatuous, 6; blind, 3; deaf and dumb, 1. 

The language generally spoken is the Gaelic. Among the agri- 
cultural labourers it is almost exclusively used ; and as many of 
them, for various reasons, remove from the country into the burgh, 
they naturally continue to speak their mother tongue, and to teach 
it to their children. The English language is, however, gaining 
ground. 

The people are rather shrewd than intellectual, and owe more 
to native sense than to the acquirements of education. They are 
also a moral rather than a religious people. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — Though many of the farms havebeen surveyed, 
yet there is no plan of the whole from which an accurate state- 
ment of the extent of the parish in acres can be made. It has 
been rated at 52 square miles and 26,000 Scotch acres ; but pro- 
bably 65 square miles and 41,600 imperial acres may be a more 
accurate estimate. The proportion of these which is in tillage 
cannot be ascertained ; the number capable of improvement is aU 
so uncertain. In the middle of last century, the land was nearly 
in its original state, cind it was di6Scult to procure tenants who 



1800—10. 


1811-M. 


I8!iO-!8. 


1889-35. 


70* 


77A 


59| 


«2» 


13 


i*i'o 


18» 


15» 



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28 ARGYLESHIIXE. 

would risk their capital in farm produce, or who* possessed suffi- 
cient wealth to stock, or industry to cultivate the soil. John Duke 
of Argyle (father to the present and late Duke) laid out large 
sums on the farms which he held under his own management; but 
still agriculture has not made that progress which could be 
wished or might be expected, and much land that might be cul- 
tivated with advantage remains covered with heath, or yielding 
crops of cotton grass, deer's hair, or rushes. Large sheep farms 
are principally valuable for grazing. Some of them contain very 
little ground capable of being advantageously brought into tillage ; 
and while the tenant naturally directs his attention to the source 
from which he expects to be benefited, he is not led to engage in 
the more laborious and expensive employments from which he may 
not receive due remuneration. 

When farms are divided, as here, among a number of joint te- 
nants who share the land under culture, and feed their sheep and 
cattle in common on the pasture, the inducements to raise as much 
crop as possible for the support of their families has issued in the 
turning up of the poorer dry soils, rather than in the improvement 
of those which are by position more fit for cultivation. On these 
farms, consequently, the old system of ploughing outfields or pas- 
ture lands till they are exhausted, and then leaving them to rest, 
is practised ; while the infield or winter town, consisting of the best 
fields around the dwelling house, is in perpetual tillage, and re- 
ceives the whole manure. In dividing the land the ridges are 
either taken alternately, or portions of a field are allotted. It is 
gratifying to be able to say, that a spirit of improvement has lately 
been infused into the tenantry which promises to banish these evil 
practices. 

It is the general opinion, that the farmer in this country should 
give his attention principally to his hay crop, as that which is most 
suitable for the climate, and of greatest utility in feeding his cat- 
tle during long and incleanent winters. For whatever improve- 
ments may be made in agriculture, pasturing must continue to be 
the support of this district. 

The rearing of cattle is much attended to, and though the breed 
has declined much since the Dukes of Argyle promoted this object 
by farming some of their own lands, it is still considered good. 
The most esteemed is that known by the name of the West High- 
land or Argyleshire breed, which is almost exclusively reared. 
They fatten here to from thirty to forty stone imperial, and when 



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INVKRAttY. ^^ 

removed to l)etter pasture reward the feeder by growing to a great 
size. 

The dairy does not occupy much of the attention, or contribute 
much to the profit of the farmer, as the milk is given to the calves. 
The butter, however, is uniformly rich and good, and when the 
cheeses are made large with sweet milk, they are of excellent 
quality. Prizes have for some years been given in this coun- 
ty by the Highland Society, for the best imitation of Dunlop, Che- 
shire, &c. cheeses — forgetting the fate of imitators in every art. 
Would it not be better to bring the Highland cheese to perfec- 
tion than to attain to mediocrity of imitation ? When the nature 
of the milk is considered, it may safely be affirmed that attention 
and quantity would render the native cheeses different, indeed, in 
character, but inferior to none in relish. 

The black-faced sheep is the only breed in the parish, and great 
attention is paid to their improvement, by purchasing tups of the 
best stamp, keeping none above four years old, and by careful ma- 
nagement otherwise. 

From June 10th to 15th the lambs are cut, and yield ewes clip- 
ped. Early in July the milk ewes are clipped. About the 1st of 
August the Iambs are taken from their dams, and in large flocks 
herded separately from the rest of the flock till January ; but in 
small flocks, after being fed for a week or ten days, on grass pre- 
viously preserved, they are allowed to mingle with the flock. 
About the 20th of October the tups are separated from the flock 
and herded apart till about the 20th of November. They are 
smeared when separated, as are the whole flock afterwards, with 
salve composed of about 10 pints imperial of tar and 28 lbs. but- 
ler imperial* 

The breed of horses is generally mixed, being a cross between 
the native mare and a larger horse from the south. The old High- 
land breed is yet to be found. Prizes have been given also by the 
Highland Society for the improvement of the native horse, 
by bringing entire horses from Clydesdale and other places, 
thus to substitute a larger breed instead of the native ; but the 
slightest consideration is sufficient to convince any person acquaint- 
ed with the pasture, that this mode of improvement must end in 
disappointment The proprietor and large storemaster may, in- 
deed, be thus supplied with large horses, but they will be such as 
cannot live on the short pile of grass which the best heath pas- 



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30 ARGYLESHIRE* 

tures yield ; and in the hands of an ordinary tenant^ who tarns bis 
horse to the 6eld or moor when his work is 6nished, they do, and 
they will become long-legged, hard-boned, and slow, ever hungry, 
ever unseemly, and never fit for labour. No horse can surpass 
the native breed in hardy endurance ; he will be fat where the 
larger horse will perish ; he may be taken from the moor to trot 
ten or even twelve miles an hour, and turned out to grass again 
ungroomed« And he is fit for carrying twelve or thirteen cwt. 
along the Highland roads. Give him more size by better food, 
more beauty by attention to the breed, and for all the purposes of 
the Highland farmer, he will not be surpassed in usefulness by any 
horse in the world. 

The poorer and richer order of tenants rear pigs, and the pre- 
judice against them only esLists among aged persons. 

The farm buildings are, in some instances, of great extent — 
the Duke* of Argyle having built office-houses upon the most 
commodious plan on one farm,-|- and also supplied others where 
they were required. Generally, however, it is only the indepen- 
dent tenant that is provided with a commodious dwelling-house or 
good office-houses. The houses, barns, *&c. of the smaller ten- 
ants are thatched with rushes, which endure two years, or with 
ferns, which endure for seven, — and that, in some instances, whea 
the houses are built on a bed of roof slate. 

In some cases the tenants hold leases of nineteen years; in 
others their right is restricted to nine years ; and very many hold 
their lands from year to year. 

The rents are generally equable and fair. There are three 
ways in which the value of lands in lease is calculated, and by 
which a farmer, on taking the average prices of the past year, is 
guided. The first of these is by an actual survey of the lands 
and an estimate of the value in acres ; the second is by the amount 
of gross returns which may be annually expected, deducting in- 
terest, wages, and expense of management, which are supposed 
equal to one-half of the produce : and the third is the market 
price of grazing a cow or sheep, and one-third of the arable produce. 

Thus to give an example of each of these methods, and first, 
of the value per acre, on the supposition of the accuracy of the 
measurement, let a farm be supposed of 

* Father to the present Duke. 

t For a descripuon of these admirable barns, &c. see Smith'b Agricultural Sunrev, 
or Garnet'k Tour. 



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INVERARY* 31 

A. R. F. 

112 2 5, arable and meadow, averaging 148. per acre, 

equal to, .... L.78 15 5 

1S6 3 24, moor, wood, and moss pasture, averaging dsi, 

equal to, - - - - 28 3 

1091 2 24,hillpasture, averaging. Is. 6d., equal to - 8117 8 



L.188 13 4 

or second, value per gross produce ; suppose the same farina 

holding 

20 cows' produce from butter, at 158. each, 
20 two years old cattle at L.5, 
40 young cattle summered at L.1, 
350 fleeces of woo), at six to the stone, and 88. 
per stone, . - - - 

170 lambs at 48. per head, 

80 draught ewes, at 8s. per head, 

30 acres of oats, three returns, or 90 bolls, 
at 16s., - - - • 

1 acres of green crop, at L.5 per acre. 



Divided by 2, for management, risk, interest, 
and expenses. 

Rent by produce, L.1 83 2 

or third, rent per head of stocL 

350 sheep at 2s. 9d. each, - L.48 2 6 

20 cows at L.2, 10s. each, . 50 

40 young cattle summered, at 12s., 24 

One-third of arable produce, 40 13 4 

L.162 15 10 



L.15 








100 








L.40 








23 


4 





34 








32 








72 








50. 








L..366 


4 






Medium of the three valuations, • L.1 78 3 8 

The above example of the application of the principles by which 
both tenants and proprietors are guided in taking or letting forms 
is not applicable in its details to every case* The value or amount 
must vary with the nature of the soil and the quality of the pasture ; 
but in this parish the estimated rent of a cow varies from Ls, 10s. 

to L,5, and that of a sheep from 2s. to 3s, In some cases the 

grass of a cow may not be worth more than L.l> 10s., nor of a 
sheep more than Is. 6d. 

Waffes.— The rate of labour is as follows: masons per day, 
3s. 6d. ; dry stone masons, 2s. to Ss. 6d. ; carpenters, 3b. ; wheel 
Wrights, 2s. ; tailors, 2s. ; shoemakers, 2s. ; farm labourers, Is. 6i 
to 2s. 2d.; do. female, 9d. to Is. 2d.; men servants, per year, 
L.9 to L.12; maid do., L.5 to L,6; shepherd, victualed, L.9 to 
L.12; married shepherds, L.1 8 to L.20, with cows' grass and 
potato land; married ploughmen, L.16 to L.1 9, with cows' grass 



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32 ARGYLESHIRE. 

and potato land. Labour is not very often performed by piece 
work ; when it is sheep drains cost id. per fall; dry stone walls, 
from 4s. 6d. to 10s. the fall, according to circumstances. 

jPuAtn^.— The fishing forms a source of considerable wealth, 
and though the herring fishing, which affords employment to every 
individual who is disposed to labour, has for some years been un- 
usually unproductive, it has contributed greatly to aid the soil in 
supporting those families who derive part of their sustenance from 
the pursuits of agriculture. It affords a cheerful and exciting oc- 
cupation to the young. 

The herring fishing generally commences about the end of June, 
and continues, if the weather permit, till the beginning of Janu- 
ary. The congregating of a few gulls into one place, or the pro« 
longed visit of ^* the whale,*' as the sail fish is called, sets every 
hand to work to g^t boats and nets into order. The boats used 
vary in size, being from 18 feet keel, and 8 feet beam, to half dec- 
kers of 22 feet long by 9 broad. The former cost about L.20, 
the Tatter L.40. The train used also varies in length, according to 
the size of the boat The ordinary train, however, consists of S6 
nets, each net being formed of smaller nets called breadths or 
dippens of twelve yards in length, and two in breath. The whole 
train is thus 436 yards long when stretched to its full length ; 
but when dropped into the water so that the meshes become ex- 
tended, its breath is 10 yards, and its length is greatly diminished. 
Each dippen costs, at an average, about 2s., and each train L.18. 
The fishermen can seldom afford to purchase the whole. They 
and their children generally manage to net a considerable portion, 
as well as to repair whatever is torn or decayed, and for these pur- 
poses they prefer the twine twisted at a rope work to that spun at 
home. The train is suspended in the sea, by attaching a blad- 
der inflated with air to the end of every net, and a small buoy to 
every fourth net 

In the beginning of the season the herrings swim near the sur- 
face ; but about the end of August they often retire towards the 
bottom, and they are fished for by affixing the buoys to long 
strings which mark the place where the train is set, while the blad- 
ders, when the netis taken down by its weight, sene to keep the whole 
perpendicular. In fishing near the surface, it is customary to remove 
from station to station during the night as occasion requires, and to 
examine the nets lest the herrings, if any, become the prey of other 
fish ; but when the long or ground string is used in deep sea fish- 



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INVERARY. 33 

ing, the time necessary for removing or examining the train is so 
great that it is considered more advisable to leave it till the morn- 
ing. 

The boats employed in fishing herrings in 1835 amounted to 
55, and the general number averages from 50 to 60. In that 
year, the boats, men, boys, coopers, labourers, or gutters, and cur- 
ers, were, according to the following table, from the different parts 
of the parish, and it may form a fair average of the general num- 
bers. The employment of the labourers and curers is only occa- 
sional. 

Districts. Boats. Men. Boys. Labourers. Coopers. Curers. Total. 
Gearan Bridge to 
burgh of Inverary, 23 44 22 60 5 9 138 

From burgh toKen- > 

more, includ. Ach->26 52 SO 40 2 3 120 

nagol & Claonary, ) 
From Kenmore to \ 
the Furnace, in- | 

eluding Acban- ^ 6 12 6 15 3 2 38 

drain and Achan 
tiobairt, 



I 



55 108 54 115 14 10 296 

It is impossible to state with any degree of accuracy the quan-* 
tity of herrings caught. Many are eaten in a fresh state in this 
and the neighbouring parishes; many are also sent fresh to the Glas- 
gow and Greenock markets, and the remainder only are salted. 
It is supposed* that one-third of the herrings caught are not cur- 
ed. The number cured for the last four years was, in 1832, 965 
barrels; 183.% 185H do- ; 1834, 2147; 1835, 1798; 1836, 
1.206. The average of these five years is therefore 1593 barrels 
cured. Two bushels of salt are allowed by law for curing each 
barrel ; but the quantity required varies with the condition of the 
herrings. The poorer herrings are cured with less salt. 

The old and the most intelligent of the fishermen do not con- 
sider that the improvement in the condition of the herring, which 
take place after its entrance into Lochfyne, consists so much in 
greater size or more fat, as in higher flavour. The cause ascribed 
for the entrance of the herring and its advance upwards to the 
head of Lochfyne, is its desire of depositing its span in the mud- 
dy grounds, which frequently form the^ bottom of the loch, and 
that especially near the head. 

* This is the opinion of Mr Sutherland, the fishery officer at Lochgilphead, who 
•uppUed the statement! in the above table, many of vbioh are also consistent with 
the writer's knowled^. 

C 



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34 ARGYLESHTRE. 

There is no regular cod, ling, or hake Bshing, but a few indi- 
viduals endeavour to supply the market of the burgh with these 
and other fishes. 

The shores were let by the late Duke for salmon fishing, at a 

rent of L. 50 per annum, and stake nets were employed ; but they 

are fished now by the servants, and for the use of the present 

. Duke* Few fish of the salmon tribe are caught till the month of 

June. 

V. — Parochiai, Economy. 

Burgk of Inverary. — If Inverary existed prior to the four- 
teenth century, it was probably nothing more than a fishing vil- 
lage. When the family of Argyle fixed their residence here, their 
retainers and friends would naturally arrange their dwellings round 
the castle of their chief, both to give and to receive protection. The 
earliest mention known of it is in the fifteenth century, when, on 
the 8th May 1472, a charter was granted to Colin, first Earl of 
Argyle, erecting Inverary, " Inoureyra" into a burgh of barony. 

It was erected into a royal burgh by charter from Charles L 
in 1648, with a territory extending from the Cromalt burn on the 
south, to the green and yard dikes of the Duke's castle, the lands 
of Kilmilieu, and the burn of Auchareoch respectively on the 
north ; Lochfyne on the east ; and the Duke's park and the com- 
mon moor on the west. 

In 1742, the causes which led to the building of the burgh so 
near the castle having ceased to operate, the old buildings were 
pulled down, and houses were erected by the Duke for the inha- 
bitants, on ground given them at a nominal rent, under lease of 
three nineteen years on the present site, then called Ardrainich. 

By the charter, the council is declared to consist of a provost 
and four bailies, and the inhabitants possessed the right of elect- 
ing the former from a leet of three, and the latter from a leet of 
four, supplied by the Duke of Argyle. By the reform bill, the 
magistrates consist of sixteen councillors, one provost and two 
bailies. 

The magistrates possess both a criminal and civil jurisdiction 
over the boundaries of the burgh ; and whatever police regulations 
are necessary for watching, lighting, cleaning the streets, manage 
ing the supply of water, &c. are framed by them, in council. 

The population of the burgh in 1831 was 1117; in 1841, 1238 ; 
and the number of persons resident within the royalty whose rent 
in property or tenantry amounted to L. 10 or upwards, was 63, 



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INVERARY. 05 

while those whose rent amounted to L. 5, but fell below L, 10, were 
23. Of the former class there were also 5 more resident bevond 
the parliamentary boundary. 

The property of the burgh consists, \st^ of a right of pasturage 
on the contiguous moor of Auchinbreck, conferred by disposition, 
granted by the Duke of Argyle in 1750. 2dj L. 20 per annum, 
conferred by the same disposition, by the Duke, for the necessary 
uses and support of the community, dc^ The right of harbour, 
with anchorage dues, shore dues, and a right to petty customs 
within the burgh. 4^A, The right of ferrying passengers and cat- 
tle across Lochfyne. 

The income of the burgh may be thus stated : rent of the com- 
mon moor, L. 36 ; annuity by the Duke of Argyle, L. 20 ; rent of 
petty customs, L. 80 ; rent of ferry, L. 40 ;* average amount of 
fees for admission of burgesses, L. 5 ; grant by the commissioners 
of supply for the support of the grammar school, L. 5 ; total, 
L. 186. The last sum is given during pleasure only, as is sup- 
posed, and the burgh has no formal right to it. * The annual 
expenditure averages L. 160. 

By the charter, power is given to hold a weekly market on Fri- 
day, with three annual fairs, the first on the 17th day of May, the 
second on the 15th July, and the third on the 16th of September. 
It seems as if the framers of the charter intended that these should 
be fairs for the county, as each of them was to be held for eight 
days, and it is declared that there shall be no other markets or 
fairs in Argyleshire, except in Kintyre, where another royal burgh 
was ordered in the reign of James VI. 

The markets held in the burgh are in May, July, and Novem- 
ber, the first and last for cattle, and the second for wool. 

The burgh has undergone many changes since 1830, and the 
magistrates have from that period made great exertions for the be- 
nefit of the public. Among other things of less importance done 
during the last twelve years, are a common sewer : the extension 
of the pier; water plentifully provided in 1836; and gas light inr 
troduced in 1841. 

The burgh of Inverary, with those of Irvine, Campbelton, 
Rothesay, and Oban return a member to Parliament. 

Means of Communication. — Inverary reaps its full share of the 
progress made in the means of communication, and instead of one 
way of travelling to Glasgow in two days, there are now four 

* See Report on the Municipal Corporations in Scotland in 18Ji5. 

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36 ARGYLESHIRE. 

ways in summer, and the journey may be performed in less than 
seven hours. The first, and at present the most regular and 
speedy of these is by Lochgoil, the second by the Kyles of Bute, 
the third by Cairndow and Lochlomond, and the fourth by Loch- 
eck and Kilmun. The first and second of these continue through- 
out the year. During the summer, there is also a daily coach to 
Oban, and the means of posting are abundantly at command. 

There are also daily posts to and from Inverary, south by 
Cairndow, north by Cladich, and west by Lochgilphead* 

There are no turnpike roads in this parish, or indeed in the 
county. The highways were originally the military roads, and 
these are now maintained and improved at the expense, partly of 
the public, and partly of the county. The Commissioners of Sup- 
ply for the county provide two- thirds of the money required for 
these purposes, and the government one- third. In addition to the 
third paid by government, the expense of superintending and in- 
specting these roads is defrayed, and they are entrusted to com- 
missioners appointed '^ for highland roads and bridges." The 
length of the miltary road thus maintained in this parish is ten 
miles, and the length of another road, not military, and, therefore, 
maintained altogether at the expense of the county, is eight miles. 
The Duke of Argyle has made and maintains many miles of road 
also in all parts of the parish, the length of which, exclusive of 
walks and paths, cannot be less than thirty-six miles. 

The harbour is not suited for ships of heavy burden. Previous 
to 1809 there was no pier worthy of the name; but it was then 
enlarged and improved ; and in 1836, L. 1200 were expended in 
extending it, forming a slip to suit every state of the tide, &c. ; 
L.800 was supplied by the fishery board, and the remainder, 
partly by the Duke of Argyle, and partly by the burgh. 

Ecclesiastical State, — There is reason to believe that this pa- 
rish was, in the days of Popery, provided with places of wor- 
ship at Auchantiobairt, Kilbryde, Kilmilieu, Kilblaan, and Kil- 
mun ; so that no person within the bounds was more than 
two miles from a church. Now there are two parish churches, 
one for the Gaelic, and another for the English congregation in 
the burgh, as the most central site for the population at large. 
Thus, the churches are distant from the north and east end of the 
parish above six miles, and from the south-west extremity eight 
miles. On the north and east ends of the parish, not more than 
five families are situated above five miles from church ; but on the 



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INVERARY. 87 

«outh*west extremity the population is numerous, and, therefore; 
in 1840, the presbytery of Inverary used means for supplying that 
destitute locality, along with a portion of the parish of Kilmichae' 
Glassary, with the means of religious instruction, by endeavouring to 
erect achurch at Camlodden, in the latter parish, but in asituation so 
convenient to that of Inverary, that 350 of the population should be 
within three miles of it, and no family of that portion of this parish 
above four miles, either from the proposed or the parochial churches. 
The Committee of the General Assembly on Church Extension, 
along with the Duke of Argyle and Sir Archibald Campbell, Bart., 
two proprietors whose tenants were to be principally bene6ted, en- 
tered into this plan, and contributed generously for its execution, by 
subscribing thus: the Duke of Argyle, L. 200; Sir Archibald Camp- 
bell, Bart., L. 100 ; the Church Extension Committee, L.225 ; to- 
tal, L.525. The church was erected, accordingly, in 1841, for above 
300 sitters, at an expense of L. 54b, and the presbytery engaged 
Mr Jackson, a probationer, to preach in it, and to visit the surround* 
ing district. His salary, guaranteed by the presbytery, has been 
hitherto paid, by a gratujty of L. 20 from the scheme of the Ge- 
neral Assembly for the employment of probationers; by L. 10 
, annually from Sir Archibald Campbell; and the remainder by con- 
tributions or subscriptions from several individuals connected with 
the presbytery or the district. The population of the district is 
not able to give much for his support, with the exception of a few 
families, who subscribe liberally. The sittings are free. 

The parish churbhes were built in 1794, but were much injured 
in 1837 by lightning. They were repaired in 1838 at great ex- 
pense ; and the English church especially is seated and fitted up 
elegantly and comfortably. The Gaelic church is seated for 470, 
and the English for 450. The sittings in both are free. 

The minister of the landward charge, or Gaelic congregation, 
as the first or oldest charge, has a right to a glebe ; but the only 
church lands being those of Kilmilieu, immediately adjoining the 
Duke of Argyle's castle, the sum of L. 45 has been for many 
years given as an equivalent for a glebe. The minister of the 
lowland congregation has right to a manse and garden, and he has 
L.30 per annum from the Exchequer, as the minister of a 
burgh without a glebe. As in times past, each minister 
had a servitude of grass for two cows and a horse, granted them 
by the Duke of Argyle, and the present Duke disponed to the 
minister of the lowland congregation two acres and a-half of arable 



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38 ARGYLGSHIUE. 

in lieu of his claim. • The manse of the minister of the Gaelic 
congregation is old, small, and not in good repair, situated in the 
burgh ; the manse of the lowland charge was built in 1842, to the 
west of the burgh, and is both a commodious and handsome 
building. 

The amount of the stipends is as follows: 

1. Gaelic or parochial charge^ — 110 bolls 3 Brlots 2 pecks of 
oatmeal, of 140 lbs. per boll ; money stipend, L.1 1, Os. 6d. ; al* 
lowance for glebe, L.40 ; for grassmail and hay, L.5; for com- 
munion elements, L.d, 6s. 8d. ; from Exchequer, L.54, 5s. 4d. 

2. Enffliah or burgh charge^ — 30f bolls oatmeal, of 140 lbs. 
per boll; money stipend, L.1, 10s. 6^§d. ; from Exchequer, 
L.127, 8s. lOd. ; ditto in lieu of glebe, L.d0; communion ele* 
ments, L.d, 6s. 8d. 

The only chapel in the parish is in connection with the United 
Associate Synod, and the minister officiating is supported wholly 
or principally by a congregation of that body in Glasgow. 

The number of individuals in the parish belonging to any class 

* Dr Fraser obtained a small farm from the late Duke and his father At a no- 
minal rent, instead of Bervitude, and the agents of the late Duke, when the writer 
l>ecame minister of the lowland congregation in 1828, informed him of the fact, 
but he declined to apply for it, as be considered it a grant rather than a right. 

t By the original establishment of this charge, it was distinct from the old parlrii* 
and the minister did not preach Gaelic. The stipend, also, was allocated by the Mar* 
quis of Argylc and others, Commissioners for the Plantation of Churches in Argyle- 
shire in 1651, from the revenues of the bishoprics of Lismore and the Isles, to the 
amount of three chalders of victual, two parts meal and one part bear, to be paid out 
of the firfit and readiest of the teinds of the I sle of Bute, and 900 merks to be paid 
out of the Arst and readiest of the surplus teinds of Kilbride, in Lorn, Kileolm.kil], 
Killintag, in Morven, the isles of Mull, Coll, and Tiree, &c These teinds had 
l)een previously granted to the Marquis of Argyle, and thus transferred by bitn. In 
1705, the synod of Argyle obuined a grant of the vacant revenues of the bishoprics 
of Argyle and the Isles for pious uses; and though from 1651 downwards, the mi* 
nister of the second charge held the above modified stipend as a right, the synod seem 
to have considered these teinds granted to them, and to have continued it as a favour 
duwn to 1724, when the Crown granted the teinds of the Isle of Bute to the Earl of 
Bute, but without consent from Parliament. The synod acquiesced, and so did the 
minister thus deprived, till! 770, when a process was brought by the latter for the 
recovery of these three chalders thus granted and withheld. In that process, the 
pursuer maintained that bis stipend was modified by the Commissioners of Parlia- 
ment for Plantation of Churches in 1651, not distinguishing, however, between the 
high commission for that purpose, and the special commissioners, appointed by an 
unprintcd statute for Argyleshire. The High Commission did not sit in 1651, con- 
sequently sentence was given against the pursuer, on the ground that ^' the decreet 
of locality, if not a forgery, w;is a gross imposition.*' The 900 merks are not now 
paid to the minister of the second charge; but, in 1792, it was found that aevenl 
farms in Glenshira, reputed to belong to Locbgoilhead, pertained to Inverary. 
The Duke of Argyle brought a process of modification, craving these teinds for the 
two ministers, though, till then, the first minister alone was considered to have a 
right to the parish teinds. Contrary to the usual practice of the Court of Teinds in 
such cases, an liiterLwutor wus pronounced to that effect in 1792, and adhered to by 
the court in 1704. bv which each miuister received thirty Ik)11s of victual, and L.I5, 
IGs. 8d. Scots. For a history of this case, sec (.'onncl on the Law of Parifthct. 



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INVERARY. 39 

of Dissenters is inconsiderable* There are two Roman Catholic 
families, and other two families in which the heads are of that 
persuasion. There are also two families of Baptists, and two fe« 
males in other two families* Eight families belong to the Seces* 
sion, and several individuals, making their numbers amount to 24 
or 25. All the remaining population belong to the Establishment, 
The numbers attending stated ordinances in the Established 
churches are, on an average, about 700, the members of many 
families, among the population of the country and burgh also, 
going to church on alternate Sabbaths, or to alternate diets. 

The number of communicants in the Established Church varies 
from 600 to 630. 

The Secession chapel is well attended in the evenings by mem- 
bers of the Established Church. ^ 

The collections at the doors of the two parochial churches 
were, for the last four years, thus : 1839, L.86, 2s. ; 1840, L.129, 
ds. Id.; 1841, L.120, 13s.; and 1842, L.101, 15s. 7d. 

The amount collected during the same years for religious and 
charitable purposes was, in 1839, L.21, 13s. 4d.; 1840, L.22; 
1841, L.26, 8s. 5id.; 1842, L.35, 6s. Id. 

Education. — The erection and maintenance of schools were ob- 
jects of careful attention to the early Presbyterian ministers of this 
county, and the records of the synod of Argyle state a unanimous 
resolution come to by that body in 1640, to erect and maintain 
schools at their own expense ; and their plan, when more fully 
developed, was, that there should be one good school in every pa- 
rish ; that the schools placed at the seats of presbyteries should 
be of a higher order, and maintained by the ministers and elders 
composing these presbyteries respectively ; that at Inverary there 
should be a grammar school, to which, as to a provincial seminary 
under the superintendence of a doctor, the youth might resort 
from all parts, within the bounds, for instruction in those branches 
which could not be taught so well in the parish schools. 

To maintain this head school, it was resolved that ^' ilk brother 
shall pay ten merks yearly." Two thousand merks of voluntary 
contribution were given in* 1648, for a foundation to it ; and, in 
1649, the Marquis of Argyle mortified 600 merks yearly for its 
use. Several sums were afterwards mortified for the benefit of 
this school, by Campbell of Stonefield and others, to the amount 

* Records of the Synod of Argyle, Vol i. pages 161 and 199. 



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40 AllGYLESHlRE. 

of L28d, 6s. 8d. Sterling, of which the kirk-sesuon were consli- 
tuted the guardians, together with L. 1 12, 2s. Sterling, being the 
price of teinds in the parish of Appin, purchased from the Duke 
of Argyle by Mr Seaton, then of Appin, and made payable by 
the Duke of Argyle to the burgh, for behoof of the grammar 
school. For many years, also, and until the teinds were evicted 
by a late augmentation of stipend, the tack-duty of the treasury 
teinds of the parish of Lismore were made payable by the Duke 
of Argyle to the town for behoof of the school. From these se- 
veral sources of revenue, the grammar school was supported ; and 
the scholars were so numerous, that, in the eighteenth century, 
application was made for permission to place all the children 
learning the elementary branches under the -charge of a second 
teacher, so that the other teacher might be at liberty to de- 
vote all his time to instruction in the higher departments. Id 
1803, the second school thus formed became the parochial school, 
with the salary appointed by statute, and the teacher retained, 
and has since received the interest of the morti6ed sum of L.283, 
6s. 8d. which were probably allowed him in consideration of the 
labour imposed on him as second teacher. 

The salaries of the two teachers at present are, — 

] . The Grammar School Teacher : — 

1. Granted by the Commissioners of Supply for Argyl«shire, LJi 

2. Interest of L.1 12, 28. as stated above, . 5 11 1 
Si Granted annually by the town-council^ . . .9911 



2. Parochial Teacher : — 

1. Maximum salary, . I»25 IS 4 

2. Interest of L.283, 6s. 8d. 14 3 4 



L50 1 



L.d9 16 8 

£ach of the teachers has a house and garden, and right to the 
pasturage of a cow on the town's common. 

In addition to these two schools, there are also two female 
schools in the burgh ; one of long standing, and supported by 
L.20 a^year from the Duke of Argyle, and L.4 a-year from the 
council; the other, established as a school of industry in 184>1» 
by the present Duchess of Argyle, and supported by a salary to 
the teacher of L.26 per year, with coal, free house, and other 
perquisites. 

There are also five teachers in rural districts. One parochial, 
with the statute salary of L.25, 18s. 4d., a free house, garden, fuel, 
and grass for a cow. His station is three and a*half miles west of the 



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INTBRARY. 41 

bui^h* A second is stationed seyen miles west of the burgh, with a 
salary of L.3 a-year; and a third, five miles south-west of the burgh, 
with a salary of L.8 a-year from the Duke of Ai^gy le. A fourth school 
is placed in Glenaray, four miles north of the burgh, supported by 
a salary of L.15 a-year from the Society for Propagating Christian 
Knowledge, and by a free house, cow's grass, and money to the 
amount of L.15 from the Duke of Argyle. The fifth is a female 
school, four miles south*west of the burgh, supported by a salary 
of L..5 from the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, 
and a free house from the Duke of Argyle. 

Five Sabbath schools are taught in the parish. 

Library, — A parochial library was formed in 1832, but the 
books are little read. The principal Sabbath school has also a 
juvenile library attached to it. 

Savings Bank* — A savings bank was established in 1829, and 
the present amount of the sums deposited is L.232, 19s.29d. 

Poor. — The poor of this parish are principally composed of fe- 
males, who have become unable, through years or ill health, to 
maintain themselves, with occasionally an old man, whom misfortune 
or misconduct has reduced to want Their numbers have ranged 
for many years from 46 to 56, according to the season of the year, 
the price of meal, or the difficulty of procuring labour. The ma- 
jority of these are always found in the burgh, where the system of 
letting or giving a single apartment to a family is favourable to 
their settlement In the rural district, for several years, the num- 
ber of paupers has ranged from 10 to 16, and they are always 
more easily satisfied, and make fewer demands on the session than 
such as live in the burgh. In addition to the collection at the 
church doors already mentioned, several sums of money have been 
at different times left to the poor, and placed at the disposal of 
the kirk-session. Much of the money thus left has been distri- 
buted among the indigent in times of pressing want, or lost Above 
L.260 still remain, bearing interest; and above L.100, lent out 
on personal security, bears no interest, and is either doubtful or 
lost The inhabitants are very charitable to the poor, and much 
money is given in alms, or collected by sales of work and penny* 
a- week subscriptions for their relief; but the principal source of 
their support is the Duke of Argyle, who, as sole heritor, never 
refuses or fails to give whatever is necessary for them. The 
amount given annually by the present Duke, whether in pensions, 
free- houses, meal, coals, soup-kitchen, or in sundry other ways, 



i 



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42 ARQYLESHIRE. 

exceeds L.500. Notwithstanding all these means of supply to 
the poor, and their amount, destitution is frequent, and so also 
are complaints. 

The disposition to ask relief varies with the amount of the relief 
proposed or disposable. 

Pruofii, — The debtors' gaol consists of five apartments, and 
the criminal gaol was made with eight cells and one large hall, 
but was altered in 1841, and formed into ten cells. The expense of 
maintaining the improved management under which it has been pla- 
ced, has also increased from an average of L.60 per annum, the great 
proportion of which was defrayed by the burgh, to L. 180, Os. 9d. for 
1841 ; and L. t2d8, 5s. 6d. for 1 842. It is proposed to make an addi- 
tional prison, to consist of twelve cells, the present number being 
found insufficient 

The average daily number of criminal prisoners for the year 
1841* was 8269; in 1842, 11,663; and for the past four months 
of this year, 19§, or upwards, showing a great increase either of 
crime or of legal vigilance. The average cost of each prisoner 
was, in 1841, L.9, 15s. 4d.; and the average annual earning of 
each, 4.S. 2d.; in 1842, L.9, ds. lid.; and the average annual 
earning of each, L.3, 2s The gross profits arising from such la- 
hour was, in 1841, L.1, Ids. ; and, in 1842, L.25, 2s. 24d. 

The following statement shews the number of prisoners confin- 
ed in the prison of Inverary, and which serves for the whole county, 
with the nature of the crimes with which they were charged, from 
the 1st July 1840 to 1st September 1842. 
Certified return of prisoners confined in the prison of Inverary, 

with their classes and crimes from 1st July 1840 to Ist Sep* 

tember 1842.t 

Number of criminals, 246 ; debtors, 14 ; theft, 50 males, 20 fe* 
males; assault, 118 males, 15 females; vagrancy, 14 males, 12 
females ; hawking, 1 male, 3 females ; murder, 2 males, 2 females ; 
violating sepulchre, 1 male, 2 females ; forgery, 1 male ; contempt 
of court, 1 do. ; crown witness, 1 do. : revenue prisoners, 8 do. 

In 1834, the total number of committals to the several gaols of 
Argyleshire was 66. In 1835, 50. 

It has been ascertained that nineteen out of twenty committals 

have arisen, during the last two years, from indulgence in iutoxicat* 

ing liquors. 

* See Fourth Report of the General Board of Directors of Prisons in Scotland, 
t Return by Malcohn Thomson, keeper of Inverary Prison, 



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INVERART. 43 

Itms^ 8fc. — The number of inns in the parish is two ; of ale- 
houses and dram-shops, or shops licensed to sell spirits, &a, 12, 
all of which are in the burgh. Among these a great quantity of 
spirits is sold ; and the following statement shows the amount of 
gallons sold, exclusive of wine, porter, ales,' &c. in the last quarter 
of 1841 and the 6rst quarter of 1843. These quarters may be 
considered as the maximum and minimum for these years. 

Number of gallons of spirits sold or taken out of stock in Inve- 
rary, from 5th October 1841 to 5th January 1842, and from 5th 
January to 5th April 1843 :* — Last quarter of 1841, home spirits , 
2525 gallons ; brandy, 46 ; foreign gin, 1 1 ; rum, 26 ; cordial, 
96 ; total Tor the quarter, 2704. First quarter of 1843, home 
spirits, 21 56 ; brandy, 21 ; foreign gin, 5 ; rum, 15; total for the 
quarter, 2197. Total for a year, 9802 gallons. 

It is difficult to conceive how such a quantity of spirits is con- 
sumed, or whence the money comes for paying it ; but it requires 
no exercise of credulity to believe that it cannot be used without 
much abuse of time, means, and understanding. 

Fuel. — The fuel used in the burgh is coal brought from Glas- 
gow, Ardrossan, and other places, and sold here at prices varying 
from l*2s. 6d. to 15s. 6d. per ton of 24 cwt. In the rural districts 
coal is also used by the principal farmers and gentlemen ; but turf 
or peat continues to be in general use. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

Time has made its changes, its ravages, and improvements on 
this as on other parts of the country since 1792, when the last 
Statistical Account was written. A few of these may be noticed: 

In 1792. In 1843. 

Three heritors. One heritor. 

M uch of the land farmed by the Duke A few acres. 

of Argyle. 
A woollen manufactory at Claomary. None. 
A blast furnace for smelting iron at No furnace, but a quarry from which 

Furnace. stones are taken for paving streets 

in Glasgow, &c. 
The quay not worthy of the name. The quay is formed into a low water 

pier, and is good. 
No regular market for butcher-meat. The flesh-market well provided. 
The cattle of persons resident in the Stronshira is now an extensive and 

burgh grazed on Stronshira. valuable plantation. 

Yearly wages of men servants, L. 5 L> 9 to L. 12. 

to L. 7 
Do. of women, L. 2 to I^ 3. L. 5 to L. 6 

All the people of the Established A few Baptists, Papists, and Seced- 

Churcn. ers. 

* Return by Duncsn M'Intyre, ofRcer of excise. 



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44 ARQYLESHIRE. 

No chapel. A Seceding Chapel. 

Orowinff disregard to religion Growing regard to religion. 

Burgh ill provided with water, and Well provided with water and gan, 

no gas, &c. &C. 

The following table is found in Smith's Statistical Survey of Ar- 

gyleshire, written in 1798, and which, though it may be consider* 

ed not perfectly accurate, as such returns can scarcely be so, af» 

fords a still further view of the difference between the present and 

past condition of this parish. The table in its later details is only 

to be considered to be as an approximation to the truth. 

^j 1^ Rtei Ig I 2S. fii ^i oj %i 

II || Rent. |a I Pop 6 1 L| dl <5| cj 

L. s.d. L. 1. d. L. s.d. 

1798, lid 874 11 9400 8 43 183S 40 4ff 8S0 1160 7,500 
1843. UG 874 11 3US7 16 7* 1 83 8877 BO 1U8 8 000 1037 13,130 

Though these changes show some improvement in agriculturet 
much remains to be done. The cottages and farm-buildings are 
generally of a very inferior description, formed of stones without 
lime, and thatched with ferns or sprits. The consequence isy 
they only endure for a few years, require constant repairs, occupy 
the time of the tenant at the season in which he ought to be drain- 
ing and preparing his land, and by going into decay, require more 
timber every twenty years from the proprietor than would main- 
tain slated houses for generations. 

The fields are also for the most part undivided, and wrought 
in a slovenly manner, or are undrained and in the state of nature. 
Turnips are little used ; potatoes may be said to be the only green 
crop raised, and sown grasses are cultivated only by the higher 
order of tenantry, it being considered useless to attempt to grow 
such on land which is open and liable to be poached by cattle in 
all states of the weather, or soft and marshy, or so limited in quan- 
tity, that what is dry and healthy must be constantly under po- 
tatoes and corn. To remedy these and any other defects in hus- 
bandry, the surest means are to encourage and to improve the con* 
dition of the tenantry. It is only a few years since, that such en- 
couragement has been given to the tenant to drain or fence his 
lands. Now the proprietor encourages the tenants, by opening 
drains which they close, building dikes the stones of which they 
collect, and generally by paying a share of the work done ; so that, 
if the progress for the next twenty years shall prove equal to the 
improvements for the eight which have elapsed, all parties will be 
benefited, and the face of the country still further beautified. 



* This U delusive of the rents of the houses in town. 

Jufy 1843. 

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PARISH OF CRAIGNISH. 

FRE8BTTERT OF INVERARY, 8TNOD OF ARGTLE. 

THE REV. ARCHIBALD FRANCIS STEWART, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural Historv. 
Name^ Boundaries^ ^c. — This parish had, in ancient times, the 
two names of Kilmhorie and Craignish, which were indiscrimi^ 
nately applied. The principal burial ground,' in the centre of 
which stand the ruins of a Popish chapel, is still called Kilmhorie. 
Kilmhorie signifies a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The 
other, which, in modern times, has become its sole name, is pro- 
nounced by Pinkerton to be Danish. In this, however, he is mis- 
taken, for Craignish is plainly a compound Gaelic word, and, like 
most Celtic names of places, it is descriptive. It denotes a rocky 
peninsula ; and, when one views the appearance of the parish from 
the west, the appropriateness of the appellation will be at once 
admitted. 

The parish lies on the western shore of Argyleshire. It is 
about 26 miles south-west of Inverary, 24 south of the village of 
Oban, and 15 north-north<-west of Lochgilphead. Its length is 11 
miles and half a furlong, and its average breadth about 2 miles. 
On the north, it is bounded by the parish of Mel fort ; on the east, 
by the parishes of Dalavich and Kilmartin, and by Loch Craig- 
nish. On the south and west, it is washed by the Atlantic 

Its figure approaches that of a scalene triangle, — the base ex- 
tending nearly due east and west, and the vertex being south«west. 
The southern half of the parish is peninsular. 

Topographical Appearances. — Its surface is much diversified. 
That part which lies farthest north rises to the elevation of about 
700 feet above the level of the sea. It is rugged, and, for the 
most part, covered with heath. Along the base of this range of 
hills, a flat tract, of somewhat less than a quarter of a mile broad, 
stretches from the shore, on the west, to a river which flows on 
the east, between Craignish and the parish of Kilmartin. Turn- 
ing towards the south-west, on reaching a chain of hills on the left 



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46 AROYLESHIRE. 

of this river, and extendincr for about two miles along its course to 
the head of Loch Craignish, it forms the valley of Barbreck. 
From the appearance of the rising ground on either side, it is ex- 
tremely probable, that, at some remote period, this flat was co- 
vered by the sea. 

The peninsular part of the parish, extending for about six miles 
from the head of Loch Craignish to the south-west, swells on the 
eastern side into numerous verdant eminences, the highest of 
which do not exceed, if they even reach, 300 feet. Close along the 
shore, a narrow strip of level land, jutting into points and winding 
into bays, lies between the base of these eminences and the loch. 
A range of heath-clad hills, of from 400 to 500 feet in height, 
stretch from the flat, already described as on the north of the pa* 
rish, longitudinally along the middle and western side, and dimi- 
nish gradually in elevation as they approach the sea on the south. 
The higher points of this range command extensive and diversified 
prospects. While the whole parish and Loch Craignish, with its 
numerous islets, are stretched close beneath, the mountains of 
Mull and Morven and the lofty summits of Ben Cruachan are 
seen to the north ; and to the south and west appear Loch Crinan, 
the hills of Knapdale, the sound of Jura, the island of that name, 
with its far-famed peaks, 

*' And Scarba*s isle, whose tortured shore 
Stdll riiiffs to Corrievrecken*s roar. 
And lonely Colonsay : — 
Scenes sung by him who sings no more ! 
His bright and brief career is o'er — 
• « « • • 

A distant and a deadly shore 
Has Leyden's cold remains." 

On a summer's evening, when the Atlantic, which is here stud- 
ded with islands, like the Aegean, reflects the glories of the set- 
ting sun, and the azure hues of the distant hills to the east, are 
seen to blend with and lose themselves in the roseate light that 
crowns their summits, — the prospect is one of surpassing beauty 
and magnificence. 

Coast, Islands, 8fc. — The coast, from its numerous indentations, 
cannot be less than sixteen miles in extent. On the east the 
shore, in general, is flat and clayey, with an admixture of sand. 
In some parts it is extremely muddy. It is rocky on the south- 
east, and remarkably so on the south and west. On the westiBrn 
side, there are several little bays, the shores of which are covered 
with a fine light-coloured sand. 

I 



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CRAIGNISH. 47 

No fewer than twenty islets belong to the parish. Of these 
the largest on the east are islets M'Niven and M^Larty. A chain 
of five islets stretches to the south-west, off the southern extre- 
mity of the peninsula* The largest of these is called Garbhreisa, 
and forms, along with the extremity just mentioned, the well 
known passage named Dorus mor, or Great Door. About a mile 
and a quarter to the west of Craignish, between the mainland and 
Jura, lie three small islands, called Reisa-mhicfaidean, Cor-reisa, 
and Reisa-an-tsruth. These are nearly south of each other. The 
two first are separated by a very narrow channel ; the middle and 
most southern are much farther apart. All the islets which belong 
to the parish are covered with verdure, and some of them are of 
considerable value. 

The climate is extremely mild. Intense cold is rarely expe- 
rienced. There is little frost, and snow seldom lies more than 
two days upon the ground. As the parish is situated on the skirts 
of the Atlantic, the climate is, however, very humid. 

Hydrography^ Friths^ Sfc. — Loch Craignish, which divides the 
peninsular part of the parish from Kilmartin, extends into the 
country in a north-easterly direction. It is about six miles long. 
Its breadth varies. At its mouth it approaches three miles ; and at 
a little distance from its head, it is scarcely one. Its average depth 
is 12, and where deepest 16 fathoms. It is adorned with a number of 
beautiftil green islets, a few of which are decorated with trees of fir, 
ash, oak, and birch. They^ie in the form of two nearly parallel 
lines on either side of it. A narrow frith separates them from the 
mainland, and the sound or. channel which extends betwixt either 
parallel line is about half a mile in breadth, and of the average 
depth already specified. On the west of the parish, about a mile 
from the south point of the peninsula, is a creek called little Loch 
Craignish. 

Tides. — The tides to the south and west merit attention, on ac- 
count of their rapidity and danger. The native boatmen are so 
intimately acquainted with them as rarely to incur hazard ; but on 
several occasions, lamentable accidents have occurred in conse- 
quence of the inexperience or temerity of mariners from a distance. 

The tide of flood proceeds in a northerly direction. It sets in 
from the sound of Jura, and divides itself into two great currents. 
Of these, the one proceeds between the coast of North Knapdale 
and the islets which lie to the south of the Point of Craignish ; 
and, while a part of it flows into Loch Craignish, and Loch Cri- 



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46 ABGYLESHIRE. 

nan, the larger portion runs through the Dorus ro6r, spreads as it 
advances, swells the waters of Little Loch Craignish and Loch Mel- 
fort, and ultimately loses itself on either side of the fertile island of 
Luing. The other flows between Jura and Reisa-an-tsruth, and 
rolls its waters, between the northern extremity of Jura and Scarba, 
into the Gulf of Coirebhrecan. The latter current is fully three- 
quarters of an hour later than the former. During spring-tides 
the current in the Dorus m6r runs at the rate of from four to 
flye miles an hour. Its rapidity, however, is considerably affected 
by winds. When the tide is rising, several dangerous whirlpools 
are formed ofl* the east point of the southern extremity of the 
parish ; and when it ebbs, whirlpools of equal danger appear on 
the north side of the islet which lies on tlie south of this strait* 
The danger of the navigation along this current is materially aug- 
mented when a strong breeze of wind opposes its progress. A 
short cross sea then rises, in which an open boat can scarcely live. 
Small boats and steam-vessels, which now frequently ply through 
this strait, generally avail themselves of the eddy tide, on the 
north side of the current, and thus effect a safe and expeditious 
passage, even when it rages with greatest violence. 

It is high water at the Dorus m6r at full and change at a quarter 
before six o'clock a. m. The flux and reflux of the tide begin here 
an hour before there is any sensible change on the waters of Loch 
Craignish. The tides in Loch Crinan and Loch Craignish corre- 
spond. It is high water in Loch Craignish four hours and a 
quarter later than in Loch Gilp. 

A very violent sea rises about a gunshot to the west of the west* 
em part of the southern extremity of the parish. It is occasioned 
by the confluence of the ebb tide which flows between Cor-reisa 
and Reisa-an-tsruth, (islets whose situation is described above^) 
and of that which runs through the Dorus mor. It is confined to 
one spot, and is known to the native boatmen by the name of 
Muinnachoinnich. 

On the coast of the islets, south and west of the parish, there 
are several dangerous sunk rocks. One of these lies about two 
gunshots off the west side of Garbhreisa, the first islet to the 
south, and is called Skeir-na*maoiU Another, named Skeir- 
nodha, lies about one quarter of a mile south of Cor-reisa. Fully 
the same distance west of Reisa-mhic-faidean, is a rock called 
Diarg-skeir; and there are two rocks of peculiar danger east- 
north-east of that islet. 



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CRAIGNISH, 49 

Springs^ Lakes^ <J*c. — There are numerous perenuial springs in 
the parish, some of which, on the east coast, gush out of the solid 
rock. 

There are no fewer than twelve lakes. These are occasioned 
by the numerous inequalities that diversify the surface of the pa- 
rish. There are many rivulets, but only one stream which merits 
the name of river. It divides the upper part of the parish on the 
east from Kilmartin. It takes its rise from a small lake at the 
north«eastem extremity, and, receiving numberless tributary 
streamlets, it flows, with a gradual declivity, and somewhat tor* 
tuous course, to the head of Loch Craignisb. It is called Amhain 
mhor, or the large river, to denote its relative magnitude, fur 
in reality it is of inconsiderable size. 

Geology.-^T\iQ geological structure of the peninsular part of 
the parish is schistose, the predominant rock being clay-slate, in 
many parts sandy, and merging in some places into a very hard 
eompact bastard sandstone. The direction of the strata is about 
south-west, or nearly the same as that of the peninsula, — occksion- 
ally, however, more to the eastward. The dip is towards the 
south-east. 

The slaty strata are in many places shifted by two sets of trap 
rocks. The first of these sets, consisting of a sort of claystone 
porphyry, of which the matrix is sandy, with crystals of felspar and 
black mica; and, secondly, of common whin or greenstone, which 
is found at the highest parts of the hills, in the middle of the pe- 
Binsula, and occasionally elsewhere, appearing between parallel 
strata of slate, and increasing the angle of dip of the superincum- 
bent strata. The second set of trap rocks is interesting, being 
most distinct specimens of basalt and whin dikes. These are at 
right angles to the slaty strata, traversing not only the peninsula 
in all its breadth, but the opposite islets in Loch Craignisb, and 
appearing on its eastern shore. These dikes are so unbroken, 
distinct, and elevated, by the decay of the softer rock, as to form 
the boundaries of adjacent farms ; and, on the western side, 
where the slaty rocks are exposed to the ravages of the weather 
and a tempestuous sea, huge isolated walls of greenstone and ba« 
salt, of the height of 100 feet, are seen standing erect amid the 
ruins of the softer rocks, and extending from the cliffs across the 
narrow intervening strip of flat to the sea. 

The islets belonging to the parish are of a schistose structure. 
There is limestone, in Reisa-an-tsruth. Limestone also occurs iu 

ARGYLB. D 



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50 ARGYI.ESHIRE. 

the northern part of the parish^ particularly in the farms of Kil- 
bride and Turnalt. 

The prevailing soils are an hazel-coloured loam on a graveliy 
bottom, and a darkish mould on a clayey bottom. Tracts of 
sandy soil are to be met with in many parts. The soil of the pa« 
rishy as a whole, may be said to be shallow ; but it is, notwith* 
standing, fertile. 

Zoology. — There is no rare species of animals in the parish. 
Those that are found in it are common to it with the rest of Ar« 
gyleshire. In the latter end of autumn, the widgeon, several va- 
rieties of teal, the fieldfare, and woodcock, arrive from the Bal- 
tic, and remain till the month of April. lu winters of excessive 
severity, a migratory bird, called the velvet duck, has occasionally 
been seen along the shore. Wild geese are frequently observed 
in Little Loch Cr^ignish. Swans ajso visit the parish, though 
rarely. 

Fishes. — Trouts abound in the lakes and rivulets. On one 
lake, char is to be met with ; salmon and grilses are sometimes 
taken at the head of Loch Craignish. In the early part of sum« 
mer, herrings are caught with a rod and white fly in the sea to 
the west. This mode of fishing them was discovered about twenty- 
five years ago. The herrings which are thus takea are regarded 
by some of the natives as a variety of this aquatic tribe. Though 
similar, in external appearance, to the common herrings, they 
maintain that their air-bladder is larger, and that others of their 
intestines are different. During the autumn, the common her* 
rings are occasionally taken, in the usual way, in Loch Craignish* 
There are about twenty boats belonging to the parish employed 
in fishing them ; and, on an average of seven years, the revenue 
derived from this source may be stated as L.150 per annum. 

Gurnet is got in considerable quantities in the sea to the west 
in summer, and the natives have recently beeoaie fond of this 
fish. Oil is extracted from its head and intestines. 

Seathe, of various sizes, is the most common fish, and is especially 
prized on account of the quantity of oil which it yields. Cod^ lythey 
and remarkably large mackerel are also taken, both in Loch 
Craignish and along the western coast and islands. 

Shell'Juh. — Lobsters and crabs are found on the southern and 
western shores. Oysters of laif;e size abound along the shores of 
the islets in Loch Craignish. The shell-fish, which, in an eco- 
Bomical point of view, are of most importance, are, muas9l% 



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CRAIGNISH. 51 

cockles, and spout-fish. The two former are found in great abun- 
dance at the head of Loch Craigntsh, and the latter in a bay on 
the western coast. These are of considerable service to the 
poorer inhabitants 'in spring and summer. 

II. — Civil History. 

The parish belonged for some centuries to two families of the 
name of Campbell. The one to which the larger portion of 
it belonged, was the family of the Campbells of Craignish. 
The other family was that of the Campbells of Barbreck. Of 
the latter, Captain Donald Campbell, who travelled overland 
to India, and published an account of his travels, was a lineal 
descendant. In Wodrow's history of the sufferings of the 
Church of Scotland, from the Restoration to the Revolution, it is 
stated that a gentleman of this family joined the Earl of Argyle 
in 1685, was appointed a Colonel in his forces, accompanied him 
10 his expedition to the low country, and after his leader's death 
underwent a public trial. In a catalogue contained in the same 
work, of the Scottish noblemen and gentlemen^ on whom 6nes 
were imposed after the Restoration, ostensibly on account of their 
submission to the late government, but in reality on account of 
thir suspected attachment to Presbyterianism, the names of Alex- 
ander Campbell, Captain of Craignish, and Donald Campbell of 
Barbreck, occur. The former was fined in L.4000 Scots, and 
the latter in L.266, 13s. 4d. Scots.* 

I'radition relates that a severe engagement took place, in an- 
cient times, between the Danes under Olave or Olaus, the son of 
their monarch, and the natives headed by their king, in the valley 
of Barbreck. The battle began, it is said, on a spot called Drim- 
ree* In the first encounter the natives were obliged to give way 

* Sinee Uie above was written, a printed ** account of the Campbells of Barbreck 
from their firstancestor to thepresent time,** has been kindly forwarded to the writer by 
Fnderiok William Campbell, Esq. the present representative of the iamily, andtheon- 
ly surriTiog son of Captain D. Campbell, the Indian traveller. This account traces 
tbe origin of the fiimily to the fourteenth century, and to the house of Argyle. It ap- 
ptan from it that the result of the public trial, undergone by Colonel Campbell, who 
joined Argyle in 1665, was, that the lands and Barony of Barbreck were gifted to 
Sir James Stewart, Sheriff of Bute, afterwards created Earl of Bute. They were, 
however, never taken poesessioQ of by Sir James. It also appears from it> diat tbe 
embarrassments occasioned by the fine suted above, were ulumately the cause of tbe 
tenity disposing of the estate of Barbreck, nnd fixing their residence OD lands p^r- 
chased in Kintyre. 

A curious relic, consisting of a tablet of ivory, was long preserved in this faniiTy. 

It was calkd '* Barbrcck*s bone,'* and was esteemed a sovereign cure for madness. 

When borrowed, a deposit of L.lOO was exacted to insure its safe return. It is now 

in the possession of the Antiquarian Society of Edinburgh, having been presented to 

. it IB 1929, by Frederick William Campbell, Esq. of Barbreck. 



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f)2 ARQYLESHIRE. 

and retreat up the valley. Opportunely receiving a reinforce^^ 
menty they rallied at a place named Sluggan, and renewed the ac- 
tion with such vigour that the foreigners were in their turn com- 
pelled to give ground. Ulric, a Danish general, was slain here» 
and a grey stone still marks the spot where he fell. The Danes, 
having in some measure recovered themselves, made an unsuccess- 
ful stand where they 6rst joined battle. Olave and the Scottish 
king are here said to have fought in single combat The formef 
was slain, and his remains were interred in a tumulus, since called 
Dunan Aula, about a quarter of a mile from Drimree, where he 
fell. At Drimree, a number of rude monuments were erected in 
honour of the warriors to whom the engagement had proved fatnl 
Of these some still remain. One large grey stone, together with 
others of smaller dimensions which stood in a circular form, were 
removed in order to furnish a proper site for the modern house of 
Barbreck. 

Another engagement between the Danes and the natives is 
said to have taken place on the western shore of the parish. Two 
cairns still mark its scene, and its severity may be argued from the 
name which it bears. It is called Dail-nan-Ceann, that is the 
field of heads* 

During the civil wars in the reign of Charles L, Alexander 
McDonald, (son of Colonel McDonald, commonly styled Col- 
quitto,) who led 1500 Irish to the assistance of Montrose, and ac- 
companied him, in the winter of 1644, into Argyleshire, — is said 
to have entered Craignish for the purpose of laying it waste, put- 
ting its inhabitants to the sword, and driving away its cattle* 
Campbell, the chieftain, informed of his approach, took every ne- 
cessary precatition to defeat his object. All the cattle in the pa- 
rish he caused to be removed to the islets which lie between the 
mainland and Jura, and swelled the garrison of his castle by re- 
ceiving into it all of his clan who were 6t for arms. M'Donald, 
on hiM arrival, immediately began a siege ; but, after spending six 
weeks in vain attempts to take it, found it necessary to abandon 
his purpose. When on the point of retiring, a sortie was made 
from the castle, a number of his men slain, and he himself, toge- 
ther with the remains of his party, compelled to quit the parish 
with precipitation. 

About half a mile to the north-west of the southern point of the 
peninsula, there is a small bay called the Port of the Atholmen. 
This appellation it received from the circumstance of seTeral of 



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CRAIQNISH. 63 

the Marquis of Athole's men having been defeated by the natives 
and drowned in the bay, while endeavouring to escape. This 
nobleman, having been employed in 1685 to suppress Argyle's in- 
surrection, ravaged a great part of Argyleshire, and treated with 
barbarous severity all the families of distinction who adhered to 
the interests of the unfortunate Earl, and more especially those 
who bore the name of Campbell. Craignish, whose principal 
proprietors were of that name, suffered severely from the inflic- 
tions of his followers, and the inhabitants still relate anecdotes, 
handed down by tradition, of their cruelties. 

Land-otDners.-^Of these the chief are, Captain Donald Camp- 
bell, RN. of Barbreck; John M^Dougall, Esq. of Lunga; and 
Colin Campbell, Esq. of Jura. 

Parochial Registers. — These consist of the kirk-session record, 
and the register of births, baptisms, and marriages. The earliest 
date of the kirk-session record is the 5th Febniary 1745; and 
that of the first entry in the register of births, baptisms, and mar- 
riages, is the 7th June 1756. The latter was not regularly kept 
Until 1791. From that period to the present it has been cor- 
rectly kept. 

Antiquities. — Several rude monuments, erected to commemo- 
rate persons of distinction, are observable in many parts of the pa- 
rish. Of these, the principal are the grey stones, already noticed, 
as standing in the valley of Barbreck. Graves of about three and 
a-half feet long, composed of flags nicely adjusted, and covered 
with a massive stone, have often been met with, and upon being 
opened have been found to contain rude terra ciftta vases, in which 
the ashes of the dead were deposited. 

The ruins of two religious houses can still be traced. Of one 
of these, indeed, few vestiges remain. It stood near the shore 
a little to the north-east of the present church, and from its 
being still called by the natives a house of prayer, it seems to 
have been a Popish oratory. On a sloping field a little to the 
west of it, a Popish priest was interred, llie other religious house 
appears to have been the parish chapel. Its walls are still stand- 
ing. It is situated on the eastern side of the parish, and about a 
mile and a half from its southern extremity. Around it lies the 
principal burying ground. 

The vestiges of eleven Danish forts are also to be traced. They 
are, in general, small, biiilt on circular eminences, and adapted to 
the form of their site. Their dimensions, as stated in the former 



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' 5\ ARGYLESHIEE. 

Statistical Account, were 27 feet in diametery and, as nearly as 
can be conjectured, from the stones which lie scattered aroiiod 
them, 12 feet in heighL The thickness of their walls was 7 feet. 

A stronghold, of greater magnitude and more importance, stood 
near the north-western boundary of the parish* It was built on a 
rocky elevation near the shore, the side next the sea being preci- 
pitous. Its walls are tolerably entire, and are 10 feet thick, are 
erected nearly in the form of an oblong square, and enclose a space 
of 260 by 90 feet. The part of the wall still standing is, in height, 
where highest, 6 feet. Within, was a well of 9 by 6 feet wide. 
Having been filled with rubbish, its depth cannot be ascertained. 

Modem Buildinfft. — The house of Barbreck, the seat of 
Captain Campbell, R. N., the principal proprietor, stands oa 
the north-eastern part of the parish. It is a lai^e and commo- 
dious building. Oii the west coast is the house of Dail, the 
residence of John M^Dougall, Esq. of Lunga. In the south* 
ern part of the parish stands Castle Craignish, the mansion of 
Colin Campbell, Esq. of Jura. The lower story of this building is 
very ancient, the upper part modern. It is a square tower, ter* 
minating above in embrasures. The ancient portion of the wall 
is 9 feet in thickness. Within, on the ground story, is a vaulted 
apartment, extending the whole length and breadth of the tower, 
which is said to have been used as a dungeon. In the centre of 
this apartment, an excavation, of 12 feet deep, by 8 in width, was 
made in the solid rock on which the castle stands. The ancient 
oaken door, with a frame-work of iron, still remains. The ram- 
part, which was erected on the eastern side of the green bank oo 
which the castle is situated, has been removed. The moat was 12 
feet broad, and of corresponding depth. A modern house, little 
in unison with the appearance of the tower to which it was attach- 
ed, was many years ago built at the north end of the latter. Its 
present proprietor has removed this building, and erected an 
edifice in better taste, as well as more spacious. 

1 1 1. — Population. 
The amount of the population at the census of 1801. was 904 

1811, 826 
1821, 901 
1881, 892 
1841, 879 
The numbers of fiimilies of independent fortune residing in the parish, 4 
proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and up< 

wards, ..... b 

unmarried men, upwards of 50 years of age, . IS 

wi<lowers upwards of 50 years of Bge, • ( 



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CRAIGNISH. 55 

The number of anmanied women upwards of 45 yeen of age, 5 

families^ . . . . . 180 

The average number of children in eacb family, ... 3 

The numb^ of inhabited houses, • . • . 179 

There is one person liable to occasional insanity. There are 
two blind individuals, one dumb, and one fatuous. 

Language. — The language generally spoken is Gaelic. It has 
lost ground during the last forty years. English vocables are of- 
ten introduced by the natives into their conversation, and some 
Gaelic words have become obsolete. English is commonly un- 
derstood, 

IV. — Industry. 

Number of males employed in agriculture as farmers, - 69 

cottars, - - - - - 50 

males employed in handicraft, • - 41 

professional persons, • . - « 4? 

other males not included in any of the above descriptions, 4 

male servants above 20 years of age, - - .^ 

undergo, ... 21 

• female servants above 20, ... 22 

under 20, - • - 11 

Agrieulture. — No accurate survey having ever been made, it is 
impossible to state the number of acres of cultivated land. With 
safety it may be averred, that a fifth part of the parish might, with 
a profitable application of capital, be reclaimed and cultivated. 
The best land is, in many places, allowed to lie waste. Consisting 
of flat tracts at the base of the rising grounds, it is at once enriched 
and injured by the streamlets which flow down from the adjacent 
eminences, depositing additional soil, and, finding no outlet, con* 
verting it into swamps and quagmires. While the draining of 
these valuable tracts is almost wholly neglected, the major part of 
the farmers, from indolence or want of due encouragement, or 
both, till in monotonous rotation the dry sunny slopes which have 
been cultivated for centuries. 

There are not above 300 acres under wood in the whole parish, 
and that number is the aggregate of scattered clumps of plantation. 
These are chiefly to be seen in the vicinity of gentlemen's seats. 

The system of agriculture which prevails among the, smaller 
farmers, who hold the largest proportion of the parish, is still, 
with, in some instances, slight improvements, what was described 
about forty years ago in the former Statistical Account, as '^ the 
old system," and this fact assuredly exhibits no favourable view 
of it. In a few farms a better system is pursued. Those which 
are in the possession of the proprietors are subdivided and enclos- 
ed; draining has been carried on upon them to a considerable 



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56 ARQYLESUIRE. 

extent; and husbandry is practised according to the most approved 
rules. There are only three farmers in the parish who enjoy 
leases; and this fact, coupled with want of capital on the part of 
the great mass of the tenantry, will go far to account for the 
neglected state of considerable tracts susceptible of high tm^ 
provemeot. 

In about half-a-dozen farms, the buildings are commodious and 
substantial ; in the remainder very inferior. 

The farming implements are good. Iron ploughs were intro- 
duced some years ago, and are now in pretty general use; A cart 
costs about L.6 ; an iron plough, L.4, lOs. ; a wooden plough, L.2. 
There are two corn-mills and one thrashing-mill in the parish. 
The former are moved by water ; the latter is wrought by horses. 

The common breed of cattle is the West Highland. A few 
low country cows are kept for milk by the upper classes. Black- 
faced sheep are those most generally kept. There are also a few 
Leicester and Cheviot sheep. Much attention is paid to the breed 
of horses, and those now used are larger and more powerful than 
those employed about thirty years ago. 

Improvements. — The principal recent improvements have been 
effected on the farms of Barbreck, Dail, Castle Craignish, Ard- 
larach, and Kilbride. These consist chiefly of draining, subdi- 
viding, enclosing, and planting. Improvements of this description 
are now going on to a great extent on the farms of Castle Craig* 
nish and Aird. 

Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce 
raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, are, 

Oats, imperial bushel, 11,750 at Ss. 9<]. per husbd, L.I6I5 12 

Bear, do. 2203 at 3s. 6d. do. 

Flax, 513 lbs. at Is per lb. 

Potatoes, 2784 bolls at 88. per boll, - 

Turnips, 13 acres at L.6 per acre. 

Cultivated hay, 10,000 stones at lOd. per stone, 

Meadow hay, 1 1,610 stones at 7d. per stone. 

Fisheries, - - . . 

Peats, -kjOO carts at is. per cart, 

Sales of live-stock, ... 

Dairy produce, • • * 

Miscellaneous, - - . 

Total yearly value of raw produce. 

The yearly grazing of a cow or full-grown ox is L.2 ; and of a 
sheep or ewe, 3s. 

The valued rent of the parish in Scots money is L.2197, ITs^ 



el, L.I6I5 12 


r> 


385 10 


6 


25 12 





1113 12 





78 





416 13 


4 


338 12 


6 


200 





240 





2270 





700 





74 





- L.7457 12 


10 



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CRAIGNISH. 5t 

•The real rent, exclusive of kain and servitudes, which are in some 
instauees still exacted, is, in Sterling money, L.2646, 10s. 

Manufactwres. — Kelp was, until lately, manufactured in the 
parish. The free importation of barilla has, however, superseded 
this commodity, and entailed a severe loss on the Highlands. The 
annual average loss sustained by the proprietors of this [;parish is 
.L.220. The natives in general experienced little or none, as the 
hands employed in its manufacture were chiefly strangers from the 
adjacent islands. 

Navigation. — One small vessel only belongs to the parish, and is 
chiefly employed in ferrying cattle from Jura to the mainland, on 
their way to the markets of Dumbarton, Doune, and Falkirk. 
The average number ferried annually, (including with^ those of 
Jura, some from Islay and Colonsay,) may be stated at 3000 
sheep, and 1000 heads of black cattle. 

Vessels from Glasgow and Greenock occasionally trade to 
Loch Craignish, bringing cargoes of c^als and carrying off pota- 
toes. In the spring, vessels from Ireland sometimes arrive for 
supplies of seed potatoes* 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
There is no market-town, nor is there any considerable village 
in the parish. Markets are frequently held in some villages in 
ihe neighbourhood, and particularly at Lochgilphead, — a place of 
some importance, where the natives dispose of their raw produce, 
and procure the few luxuries in which they have it in their power 
to indulge. 

Means of Communication. — Lochgilphead is the post-town, and 
a post goes there and returns thrice a week. The road be- 
tween Lochgilphead and Oban passes for two miles through th e 
parish. From this the parish road branches off to the south>west, 
and proceeds, for the most part, along the eastern shore to the 
harbour of Little Loch Craignish. Bridges have beep erected 
where necessary. 

The Crinao Canal affords the means of easy and frequent com* 
oiunication with the low country. Steam-boats plying through it 
between Glasgow and Inverness pass the southern extremity of 
the parish every alternate day, and often land goods and pas« 
sengers. 

Harbours. — There is a safe harbour in Little Loch Craignish, 
whither vessels frequently repair, either for shelter in tempestuous 
weather, or for the purpose of awaiting a favourable state of the tide 



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58 AEGTLESHIRE. 

at the Dorus Mor. The north end of Large Loch Craigmdi toma 
a commodious harbour. The entraoce into it is free from sunk 
rocks, the anchorage is good, and, being almost surrounded with 
hills, its waters rarely experience any violent agitation. 

Ecckriaitical State, — The first Presbyterian church was erected 
in this parish in the year 169a Presbyteriaaism was, howerer, 
established some time before, though the date of its first introduc- 
tion cannot be ascertained. The first resident Presbytman cler- 
gyman appears to have been the Rev. John Darroch, who was 
transported to Craignish from the united parishes of Kilcahnonell 
and Kilberry, and the chapel of Skipness, on the 8th day of June 
169*2, and departed this life on the 6th May 1780. He was sue- 
ceeded by the Rev. Archibald Smith, who was ordained and ad- 
mitted on the 2dd day of April 1785, and died while attending 
the meeting of the General Assembly of 1787. The next mi« 
nister of Craignish was the Rev. Hugh Campbell, who was or- 
dained and admitted on the 26th of September 17d8» and was 
loosed from his charge to be transported to the parish of Rothe* 
say, on the 1 6th of October 1754. The Rev. Lachlan Campbell, 
translated from the parish of Af dnamurchan, was admitted minis- 
ter of Craignish on the 22d of July 1755, and died on the 8th 
of December 1768. 

The Rev. Paul Eraser, D. IX, waa admitted minister of this pa- 
rish on the 17th April 1765, and was loosed from bis charge 
and translated to Inverary on the 17th of June 1789. He was suc- 
ceeded by the Rev. Lachlan Maclachlan, who was ordained and 
admitted minister of Craignish on the 23d September 1789, and 
died in summer 1795. The Rev. Francis Stewart was translated 
from the parish of Kilchrenan and Dalavich, and admitted minis* 
ter of Craignish on the 24 th September 1795, and died on the 
13th day of February 1832. 

The present minister was ordained and admitted as assistaDt 
and successor to the last incumbent on the 1st of September 
1831. 

The present church stands on a little green on the eastern side 
of the parish. It was erected in 1826. It is neat, commodious, 
and conveniently situated. There is only one family more than 
four miles distant from it. It is capable of containing 500 sitters, 
and is, in general, well attended. The average number of com- 
municants is 180. There are two Dissenters in the parish. 

Benefactions. — The sum of L. 50 was bequeathed in trust to 



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CRAIGNISH^ 58 

the Qiioister and elders for pious purposes in 1751, by John Camp* 
bell, Esq., youngest son of George Campbell, Esq. of Craignisb. 
The late Major- General John Campbell of Barbreck left in 1795, 
the sum of L. 60, the interest of which is annually distributed by 
the fcirk-sessioo among the poor on that estate. In 1835, a sum 
of upwards of L. 60 was invested by Colin Campbell, Esq. Jura, 
in a share of the Edinburgh Old Gas Light Company, the pro- 
ceeds of which are to be distributed among the paupers on the 
Castle Craignisb estate, and should there be none on that property, 
among the poor of the parish at large. A right to send a patient 
to the Glasgow Infirmary has also been generously conferred by 
same gentleman on the kirk-session. 

Stipend. — The stipend is 1 18 bolls 3 firlots of oatmeal^ and 
LtalO, 7s. ds. in money, together with Lt48y 6s. 6d. allowed by 
Government out of the bishops' rents. 

The manse stands on a rising-ground a little to the west of the 
church, and is nearly surrounded with trees. Together with offices 
and garden wall, it was built in 1834, and is a comfortable and 
commodious building. 

The glebe is about 15 acres in extent. Having been much 
improved by the last incumbent, it may be valued at L.17 per 
dnnum. 

Education. — There is one parochial schooL It is situated near 
the church. In the north end of the parish there is a small school 
taught on the teacher's own adventure. The branches commonly 
taught in both, are English and Gaelic reading, writing, arith- 
metic, and book-keeping. Latin is occasionally taught in the 
parochial school. The parochial teacher enjoys the legal accom- 
modations. His salary is the minimun), and the average joint 
amount of his salary and school fees is L.53. The amount of 
fees received by the other teacher is LfolO. 

The number of persons above fifteen years of age who are illi- 
terate is now about 60. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid is 15. The annual amount of church col- 
lections for their relief is LI2; from l^acies, fines, &c* L.12. 
The laudable desire of independence was till lately, happily pre- 
valent, and few persons sought parochial relief until compelled by 
imperious necessity. 

Inns. — Tl>ere are three public-houses in the parish ; but they 



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M AR6TLB8HIRB. 

do not appear to exert, to any material extent, a pemicioas influ- 
ence on the morals of the inhabitants. 

FueL — The fuel most commonly used is peats. These are dug 
in the l^lly parts of the parish. Their quality in the peninsula b 
regarded as inferior. Coals from Glasgow are now procured in 
summer at the rate of from 13s. to 1 5s. per waggon, and are chiefly 
used by the upper classes. 

MiSCELLANKOUS OBSERVATIONS. 

Most of the superstitious practices which existed among the 
natives have now disappeared, or, if still observed, are observed 
only as means of entertainment by the youthful portion of the in- 
habitants. 

One pernicious relic of Popery the late venerable clergyman of 
the parish was mainly instrumental in abolishing. At the time of 
his appointment to the beneBce, parents, actuated by a blind and 
superstitious desire for the salvation of their offspring, carried their 
new-born babes, as soon as swaddled^ to the minister to be bap- 
tized ; and this practice, as may be easily conjectured, was, in nu- 
merous instances, attended with fatal consequences. By the ex- 
ercise of firmness, and the assiduous employment, on his part, of 
every means to enlighten the people, it was, however, many years 
ago completely extirpated. Nor was this the only improvement 
effected during his ministry. By the strict exercise of discipline 
the morals of the inhabitants were ameliorated, and, by the force 
of reiterated admonitions, their eyes were opened to the benefits 
of education, and a desire for religious knowledge awakened in 
their bosoms. 

The facilities of communication have been greatly increased 
since the last Statistical Account was published. The public roads 
have undergone material improvement, and the opening of the Cri- 
nan Canal, and, more recently, the frequent intercourse by steamers 
between the Highlands and the towns of the low country, enable 
the natives to turn their raw produce to greater account, and pro- 
cure, at a much cheaper rate than formerly, such necessaries as 
the parish does not itself produce, and such articles of luxury as 
their circumstances will allow them to use. 

Much improvement might be introduced into the mode of let- 
ting land in the parish. Leases ought to be more generally given ; 
and, where there are more tenants than one in a single farm, each 
should be rendered independent of the other, so that a spirit of 
emulation might be excited, or, at least, that the ignorant and in* 



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KILNINVBR AND KILMBLPOUT. 61 

dolent might not have it in his power to obstruct the course of bis. 
iTipre skilful and industrious neighbour. Draining and enclosing 
should be carried on to a much greater extent, and every encou- 
ragement afforded to the cultivation of green crops, to which the 
climate is peculiarly adapted. Plantations of wood should also be 
formed, as there ^re many eminences at present of little value, and 
assuredly of no beauty, which, if planted with oak, ash, and larch, 
the timber in most demand for rural purposes, might, at a mode- 
rate expense, be rendered at once highly productive and extremely 
ornamental. A few slopes there are, throughout the peninsula, in 
which stools of native oak are so numerous, that, if protected by 
enclosures from the browsing of sheep and black-cattle, they would, 
in a brief term of years, be adorned by thriving trees. . 

Revised July 1843. 



PARISH OF 

KILNINVER AND KILMELFORT.^ 

PRESBYTERY OF LORN, SYNOD OF ARGILS. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The name Kilninver is compounded of two Gaelic 
words, viz. At7, a burying-place, and inbher (inver) the foot of the 
river or water ; which is descriptive of the situation of the an« 
cient burying-place or chapel from which the name of the parish 
is derived. Kilnamaolphort, or Kilnameallard, or Kilnameallphort, 
contracted Kilmelfort, signifies either the burying-ground of the 
smooth or round bays, or, according to some, the promontory's 
bay, — there being a high and rocky point of land jutting out into 
the head of LochmeHbrt, forming on each side two round bays. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The united parish is about 12 square 
miles. It is bounded on the east,, by the parishes of Kilmore and 
Kilcbrenan ; on the south, by Dalavich and Craignish ; on the 
west, by Kilbrandon and the sound of Mull ; and on the north, 
by Lochfeuchan, which separates it from the parish of Kilbride, 
or, as it is generally called, Mid Lorn. * Towards the east and 

* Drawn up hj the late Rev. John Ferguson, Assistant Minister of the parish. 

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62 ARGYI.KSHIRE. 

south the ground is high^ and consists of hill and dale. Glen- 
cHichar, so called from a river of that name running through it, 
eitends for about six miles, intersecting the parish of Kilninver 
from east to west The strath or low ground produces good crops 
of corn and potatoes, and the hills, in rainy seasons, yield exeellent 
pasture. The Braes of Lorn, another glen or slnth running pa- 
rallel with Gleneuchar on the south, ia inferior to it in point of 
extent aud tillage, but far superior on account of the richness of 
the pasture, and the abuncbmce of limestone and peat which it 
affords* 

In the west end of the parish, called Nether Lorn, there are 
about three miles of arable land, consisting of clayey soil and 
black loam on sand or slate. It is highly cultivated, and produces 
excellent crops of com, barley, bear, potatoes, turnips, clover, and 
rye grass. 

Except rich pasture and fine perennial springs, there is nothing 
very remarkable, connected with the hills in the parish. The 
highest is Ben-chapull or ^* mares' mountain," towering above all 
the neighbouring hills, and commanding a very extensive and de- 
lightftil view to the west and north. It is about 1500 feet above 
the level of the sea. The other hills extend in four different 
ranges, and terminate on the sea coast On the south side of 
Gleneuchar, there appears to have been a volcanic eruption or the 
shock of an earthquake, whose effects present a grotesque and 
awful appearance. 

Topographical Appearances, — The united parish has about 
fourteen miles of sea coast, with a number of bays and iih- 
lets, which afford a safe and convenient anchorage. From the 
estuary of the river Euchar to the sound of Claehanseil, a dis- 
tance of five miles, there are two promontories, higk and rocky, 
forming an extensive and beautiful bay, having a clayey bottom 
and a smooth and sandy shore. From thence to the sound 
of Clachan, the .coast is very nigged and dangerous to ship-* 
ping. The rocks are composed of sandstone and slate, with 
veins of whbstooe interspersed* The sound above-mentioned, 
which forms the western boundary of Kilninver, is about two miles 
long, and averages about eighty feet broad. It runs smooth ainl' 
straight, with a strong current, and forms a beautiful canal. Though 
it is passable at some places at low water, and a regular ferry al-* 
ways available, yet the inconvenience was generally felt and com* 
plained of. A bridge at length was built, consisting of a single 



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KILNINVER AND KIKMRLFORT. 63 

arch, 72 feet wide and 27 feet above the highest water-mark, and 
admits vessels of about twenty tons burden. At both ends of the 
Sound, which is north and south, there is good and safe anchorage. 
•Viewing the whole from the sea, it exhibits a most delightful and 
picturesque scenery. 

Ix)chmelfort gives a sea coast of upwards of six miles, indented 
with large and beautiful bays. The hill ranges on both sides are 
higher than the coast of Lochfeuchan; but the shore, for the most 
part, is sandy, and well adapted to Bshing stations. 

There is a cave on the north shore, which tradition says aflforded 
shelter to the first settlers, until they procured more comfortable 
accommodation. It is so remote, and so thickly surrounded with 
woods, that detection is scarcely possible. Some years ago, smug- 
glers made it their head-quarters ; and one of them, at least, made 
a large fortune by illicit distillation, and was never discovered. 

Climate^ ^c — The temperature of the atmosphere is remarka- 
bly mild, but the weather is exceedingly changeable. The pre* 
vailing winds are the south, south-west, and west 

During the months of July, August, and September, the wea* 
ther is generally rainy, which, though highly favourable to the 
grazier in the upper parts of the parish, yet proves prejudicial to 
the interests of the agriculturist, whose loss is greater in propor- 
tion to his industry in raising early and heavy crops. During 
this period, and generally throughout the year, when rain is near, 
the mountains of Jura, Scarba, and Mull in the distance, give 
timeous warning of its approach^ by enveloping their summits in 
mist ; and whatever indications of fair weaiher the general aspect 
of the 4^y may present, those more immediately concerned sel- 
dom mistake the prognostications of these splendid and time-set 
barometers. 

In March and October, easterly winds prevail for some weeks. 
The weather is dry, but unhealthy, and is not less injurious to 
vegetation than it is unpleasant to the human frame. 

Moist as the climate is, and variable as the weather generally is, 
to the natives at least it is salubrious } and the most convincing proof 
of this is their longevity. There are at present, living in the parish, 
five individuals, whose united ages amount to 453 years. The only 
distempers which can be attributed to the influence of climate 
are, colds, asthma, and rheumatism, which are rather prevalent 
among old people. It is observed that they are less hardy, and 
more subject to diseases, since the Highlaud dress was laid aside*. 



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64 ARGYLESIliUK. 

Hydrography. — Lochfeuchan, aa already observed, bounds the 
parish for about three miles. The average breadth is about a mile, 
and the depth fifteen falhoms. During the flowing and ebbing 
of spring*tides, it has the appearance of a large and rapid river. • 

Lochnielfort is nearly four miles long, two broad, and thirty-five 
fathoms deep, though both are arms of the great Atlantic Ocean, 
and consequently largely partaking of its quality. Yet, the im* 
mense quantity of fresh water, which constantly flows into them, 
materially affects their saltness, colour, and temperature. 

There are numerous perennial springs in the valleys along the 
hills, and on the shore ; some of them gush from rocks, others are 
filtrated through banks of sand, and a few mineral springs ooze 
through moss. The most of them seem to flow from inexhaustible 
reservoirs in the bowels of the hills. In this country, where rain 
is so frequent, and lakes and rivers so numerous, springs, in ge- 
neral, are little noticed or valued ; but, in dry seasons, or during 
severe winters, their advantage is particularly felt. On such oc- 
casions, when other sources fail, or are inaccessible, these continue 
their supply, and, in the depth of winter, preserve the verdure of 
the encircled herbage as well as their refreshing quality. 

There are about twenty lakes in the parish, the largest of which 
is Lochscaroadale, about two miles long from east to west, half a 
mile broad, and twenty fathoms deep. 

Being surrounded on all sides with hills of considerable height, 
except towards the west, it is abundantly supplied with innumerable 
streams, springs, and mountain torrents. During floods, the noise 
of these pouring over precipitous rocks, arid foaming through deep 
and narrow ravines, is truly tremendous. The scenery, upon the 
whole, is beautiful. 

Lochbrallaig, in the Braes of Lorn, is upwards of a mile long 
and half a mile broad. It extends in a parallel line with Loch- 
scamadale ; a range of hills of 800 feet extend along the north 
side, which form a very grand scenery. At the base of a rock 
many hundred feet high, and within a few yards from the lake, 
stands a schooUhouse, where the children of the district are taught. 
' Line, or String Lake, at the eastern extremity of the pa- 
rish, is about a mile in circumference. The trout in this lake are 
superior to any in this country, in point of size and quali^. 

Lochseil, about a mile east of the Sound of Seil, and only a 
few feet above its level, is nearly two miles in circumference, and 
its average depth is ten fathoms. From its proximity tQ the sea,- 



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KILNINVER AND KILM£LFORT. 65 

and the low and marly nature of the intervening ground, it appears 
to have been at one time an arm of the sea. 

The Parson's Lake, about a mile from the bead of Locbmel- 
fert, is upwards of a mile in circumference, and is remarkable for 
its beauttftti wooded island and ruins. The scenery on the north 
side is extremely wild. 

Rhen.^The river Euchar has its source in Lochscamadale, 
running westward for about two miles, and then takes a northerly 
direction for about the same distance, and falls into the sea at Kit 
ninver. 

Prom the extent and depth of its source, and the number of 
tributary streams which swell it in its course, it is among the lar- 
gest in this part of the country. Its banks are 6nely wooded, and 
about a mile irom the sea the scenery is very grand and beautiful. 
At this place it flows through a deep ravine of solid rock. A 
waterfall of several feet high has formed a very deep pool, which 
is a rendezvous for all the heavy salmon which fail to overcome 
that physical barrier in their course to the lake. Before the law 
respecting fisheries was revised and rigorously enforced, there 
were often caught in this pool from 60 to 100 large salmon. 

On the south bank, and immediately above that romantic spot, 
once stood the mansion of the ancient and brave M'Dougalls of 
Raray. 

The river Oude flows from Lochtrallaig, and is nearly five 
miles in length from north-east to south-west. It runs for about 
two miles through the braes of Lorn, in the parish of Kilninver, and 
joins the sea at an extensive and beautiful bay on the north side of 
the head of Locbmelfort About a mile from its junction with the 
sea, it runs through a district presenting scenery of the grandest de- 
scription. What renders this spot so interesting is, that the great 
public road from Lochgilphead to Oban passes through it. The 
rocks on both sides are several hundred feet high, and in many 
places overhanging the road. The Kirkton water issues from 
the parson's lake, running upwards of a mile south-west, and 
falls into the south bay at the end of Locbmelfort A few yards 
from its source, it forms a very fine cascade, forty feet high. 

The range of hills, as already observed, which bound the united 
parish on the east and south-east, abounds with limestone which, 
in consequence of the facility of procuring peat from the interven- 
ing valleys, is likely, at no distant period, to be turned to a good 

ABGTLE. £ 



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^ ARGYLESIIIBE. 

account, by improving the pasture on the heathy moors, and sup- 
plying the agriculture in the district. 

Along the banks of the rivers, especially where they join the sea, 
there is a quantity of alluvial deposit, over clay or sand* The afv* 
pearance of the banks of the Eachar at Kilninver, and the forma- 
tion of the rocks, show clearly that the whole of that strath was un- 
der the water. Freestone, of a light blue colour, and of excel- 
lent quality, abounds on the coast. Its distance from mai^et, 
however, prevents it from being wrought, otherwise it might yield 
a great revenue to the proprietor, and employment to the poor. 

Zoology. — The number of horses and cattle in the parish may 
be computed as follows: horses, 150; black-cattle, 1200; sheep, 
15,000. Since the old forests have been cut down, many of the 
wild animals which once lived here have disappeared. Red*deer 
are seldom seen, and when they do visit us from the neighbouring 
forests of Glenurchy, they only continue a few days. There are 
still roes, hares, foxes, martins, badgers, polecats, wild-cats, 
otters, weasels. 

Of the feathered kind there are blackcocks, partridges, wood- 
cocks, moorfowls, snipes, pigeons, grey and green plovers, differ- 
ent species of eagles, wild-ducks, and ^ great variety of water- 
fowls, such as is common on the west coast 

Along the whole coast, there is abundance of fish of all kinds, 
8uch« as salmon, herring, ling-fish, mackerel, turbot, saithe, had- 
dock, whiting, lythe, gurnet, red-fish, sword-fish, eel, flounder, 
and skate, &c. 

There is a variety of shell-fish round the shores of Locbfeuchan 
and Lochmelfort, such as oysters, lobsters, crabs, mussels, spout- 
fish, cockles, welks, lampreys. The lakes and rivers abound with 
trout and perches. The time when the salmon come up the river 
to spawn, is from the beginning of October to the end of December. 

IL — Civil History. 
Traditions of battles fought in this parish during the feudal 
times, especially between the Campbells^ and M^Dougalls, might 
easily be obtained ; but though they might furnish materiak for 
the poet or the novellist, yet, at this distance of time, and in 
the absence of any written document, they cannot be depended 
upon as historical facts. It is said, however, that an authentic ac- 
count of these, and of several other important events connected 
with the parish, is to be found in the Duke of Argyle's library 
at Inverary. 

3 



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KILNINVEtt AND KILMELFORT. 67 

One of these is so weH corroborated by other evidences, that it 
deserves to be noticed. The notorious Alexander McDonald, 
better known in the Highlands by the name of Alastair Mac* 
ChoUa, having, in his warlike expedition through Argyle, passed 
through this parish, the men fled at his approach, but women 
and children, to the number of several scores, fled into a barn, 
where they were discovered, and without the least offence or pro- 
vocation, barbarously burnt to ashes. The ruins, where this tra« 
gical deed was perpetrated, are still seen, bearing the name of the 
bones' barn. 

Eminent Men. — About ninety years ago, the Rev. Alexander 
M^Farlane, then minister of the parish, translated the Psalms, and 
Baxter^s Call to the Unconverted, into Gaelic, and though several 
improved editions have since been published, more in accordance 
with the dialect now spoken, still his name deserves to be grate- 
fully remembered for his faithfulness and zeal in supplying his 
countrymen with these In their vernacular language, when so few 
could either read or understand English.. He was latterly minister 
of Arrochar, Dumbartonshire. 

Within the last forty years, Archibald Campbell, son of the late 
Mr Patrick Campbell, q^inister of Kilninver, was one of the most 
eminent mathematicians in his day. He gave early indications of 
genius, and prosecuted his studies with success. He contributed to 
the Edinburgh Encyclopaedia, and also to several periodicals of the 
day* His scientific acquirements may be estimated by the ability 
with which he wrote on Annuities and Acoustics. In the prime 
of life, he fell a victim to intense application to his favourite studies, 
and was buried at Kilninver. 

Admiral Sir Patrick Campbell, K. C. B., and his brother, Sir • 
Colin, lately Governor of Nova Scotia, now of Ceylon, are natives 
of this parish. They have long filled high and honourable situa- 
tions in the army and navy, and in their respective departments 
distinguished themselves in a manner worthy of the brave and 
patriotic family of Melfort, of which they are descended. 

Heritors, — The principal heritors are, the Marquis of Breadal- 
bane, the Duke of Argyle, the Lorn Furnace Company, and John 
Campbell, Esq. of G lenmore. 

Parochial Registers, — The earliest date of the parochial registers 
is 1758. If any were kept previous to that period, they are irreco- 
verably lost. Till within the last twenty years, there was but one 
register for both parishes ; but the distance between the two places 



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6d AnGYLESHlR£. 

r^dered such an arrangement inconvenient ; there is, therefore, 
one kept in each. These are under the immecUate inspection of 
the kirk-session, and from tiooe to time examined by the presby- 
tery of the bounds, and consequently are regularly kept 

Antiquities. — The few antiquities in the parish consbt of cairns, 
tumuli, and large stones standing perpendicular. Some are isolated, 
others placed in a circular position. There was a tumulus of great 
antiquity in the immediate neighbourhood of Kilninver, called Du* 
nanbuiaig, after the name of a Danish princess, named Buiag, or 
yellow-haired. About thirty years ago, some masons, in quest of 
materials for building, barbarously demolished it, and found careful- 
ly preserved in a stone coffin, an urn of great antiquity, which ap- 
peared to have contained the ashes of some illustrious personage. 

Cairn Challein, or Colin's cairn, is erected on a conspicuous 
spot, on the old line of road, between Kilninver and Lochawe, 
where it is said (and other historical events substantiate the fact) 
that M^Callein More, then knight at Lochawe, was treacherously 
slain, while returning victorious at the head of his men from a skir- 
mish against some of the neighbouring clans. Within a mile of this 
cairn, there is a burying place, where those who fell on the occa- 
sion above alluded to, are interred. A little to the south of this 
classic spot, Line lake, with its beautiful island and time-worn ruin, 
are situated. In feudal times, a banditti of freebooters made this 
their head- quarters, and for nearly a century infested not only the 
surrounding district, but made predatory incursions to the adjoin- 
ing counties. 

On a wooded island in the Parson's Lake, there stand the ruins 
of a castle or monastery, with twelve apartments. 

The most ancient of all the ruins in the |iarish, called Dun- 
Mhie Raonaill, or Ronaldson's tower, is situated on a point on the 
coast of the Sound of Mull ; when or by whom built is unknown. 
It appears to have been intended as a beacon or watch tower, for the 
purpose of giving timeous warntog of any hostile invasion. Simi- 
lar towers are numerous along the coast, and were so situated, that 
with corresponding signals, well understood by those concerned, 
intelligence of the approach of an enemy by sea or land might be 
communicated some hundred miles in a few hours. 

III. — Population. 
The population in 1881 was 1072. At present it does not ex« 
iseed 970, which shows a deereaae of upwards of 100 within the 
last ten years. 



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KILNINVER AND KILMELFORT. 69 

*The yearly average of births is . 12 

deaths, . . .10 

marriages, . 7 

The average number of persons under 15 years of age, • 325 

betwixt 15 and 30, . . 184 

30 and 50, . 248 

50 and 70, . 164 

upwards of 70, . . 46 

Number of families of independent fortune residing in the parish, . 2 

arietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, 8 
elor8,fcc. upwards of 50, 28 

unmarried women above 45, ..... 35 

insane or fatuous, . * 6 

Three of these are dumb, and one deaf and dumb ; blind, . 9 

The language generally spoken is Gaelic, which has lost ground 
considerably within the last forty years. 

IV. — Industry. 

There is a considerable extent of ground under wood. The 
indigenous trees are oak, ash, birch, elm, alder, mountain ash, and 
hazel. Those planted are, Scotch fir, larch, spruce, plane tree, 
beech, chestnut, poplar, and lime, which are properly fenced and 
pruned, and thrive well. 

The general character of the husbandry is, as nearly as circum- 
stances will admit, the same as in the south of Scotland. The 
Marquis of Breadalbane, who is proprietor of two-thirds of the pa- 
rish of Kilninver, gives every encouragement to his tenants to im- 
prove their lands. Other proprietors who farm their own estates, 
are not behind in improvements. 

Cattle shows and ploughing matches are annually held in the 
parish, and have a powerful influence in stimulating the tenants to 
industry> 

Leases are generally from seven to nineteen years. 

There are two salmon fisheries, one at the junction of the river 
Euchar with Lochfeuchan, and the other at the foot of the Oude. 
The former pays about L. 40 of rent, and the latter L. 30. 

The herring fishing in Lochmelfort has been very successful for 
several years. It is a source of great benefit, not only to the pa- 
rishioners, but also to the whole district. A great quantity of 
kelp used to be manufactured here, which employed many of the 
labouring classes ; but of late years it has been found a losing spe- 
culation, and has been consequently abandoned. 

There is a large distillery in the parish, where a number of 
people are employed. It is under such excellent management, 
that no bad effects on the morals of the people employed at it are 
visible. 



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70 ARGYLESHIRE. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

The nearest market-town is Oban, which is about eight miles 
distant from Kilninver. 

The length of the public road through the parish is about 
fifteen miles. 

Ecclesiastical State. — There are churches at Kilninver and Kil- 
melfort about eight miles distant from each other, where the mi- 
nister preaches alternately. The church at Kilninver was built 
about fifty years ago, and affords accommodation to 45Q. That at 
Kilmelfort is seated for 250. Both are kept in excellent repair. 

There is no manse in the parish. The sum of L.50 is allowed 
for manse money. The glebe (except about an acre at Kilninver) 
is at Kilmelfort, and is let for L.18. The stipend is the minimum. 

The Duke of Argyle is patron of Kilmelfort, and the Marquis 
of Breadalbane is patron of Kilninver; they present per vices. 

There is no chapel of ease nor Dissenting chapel in the pa- 
rish. There are only a few families of Dissenters in the parish. 
The number of communicants is about 250. The collections for 
the poor amount on an average to L. 12, and the average cdiec- 
tion for religious purposes is L. 10 per annum. 

Education. — There are 4 schools, viz. 2 parochial schools, I As- 
sembly school, and one supported by the tenants^ with some assist- 
ance by the Marquis of Breadalbane. The schoolmaster at Kil- 
ninver has L.34 of salary, with an allowance of L.6, 8s. in lieu of 
dwelling house and garden. The salary at Kilmelfort is L.25, 
with L.4 for house and garden. The Assembly teacher has L.25, 
with an additional allowance for accommodation. There is also a 
sewing, spinning, and knitting-school at Clachanseil, supported by 
the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. 

Poor^s Fund, — The average number of poor is 40w The he- 
ritors give an annual donation, which, with church collections, 
forms the only fund for their maintenance. For several years 
past, wealthy people connected with the parish have given libe- 
rally, and consequently the poor have been well supplied Inde- 
pendently of this source, which may be considered as temporary, 
the most necessitous receive cibout L. 4 a-year, with a free house 
and garden, and some potato ground. 

Fair, — There is a fair held in May and November for the pur- 
pose of hiring servants. 

Inns^ 8cc, — There are two inns and two public houses or dram- 
shops in the parish. One inn is indispensable, the others are a 
nuisance. 

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KILBRANDON AND KILCHATTAN. 71 

Fti^I.— -Gentlemen fanners use coals, but the people in general 
use peat for fuel, of which abundance is found in the hills. 

184a 



PARISHES OF 
KILBRANDON AND KILCHATTAN* 

PRESBTTBRY OF LORN, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 



I. — TOPOGEAPHY AND NATURAL HiSTORY. 

Name. — This parish has received its name from some one of 
those Scottish saints who, no doubt, were celebrated in their own 
times, but of whom very little is now known, except that they 
were companions or followers of the famous St Columba. It ap- 
pears that, before the Reformation, there were four churches or 
chapels within the bounds of the present parish, which were dedi- 
cated respectively to Brenan or Brandon, Cattan, Bride or Brid- 
get, and Coan. The places where these churches once stood^ 
and where the ruins of some of them are still to be seen, are called 
Kilbrandon, Kilchattan, Kilbride, and Kilchoau. When these 
four churches or parishes were united, the last two names were 
dropped, whilst the other two are still retained. The parish is 
generally called Cuan by the country people, from the circum- 
stance that the present church stands near the narrow sound of 
Cuan, (derived from the Gaelic cumharij narrow,) which separates 
Seil from Luing. 

Extent^ Boundaries^ Sfe. — The parish is situated in that district 
of Argyle called Nether Lorn. It consists of a portion of the 
mainland and a group of islands, five of which are inhabited, viz. 
Seil, Luing, Easdale, Torsay, and Shuna. Its greatest length 
from north to south is 10 miles, and its greatest breadth is about 
6 miles from east to west. The district on the mainland belong- 
ing to the parish is about 4 miles long, and two miles broad ; Seil 
4 by 2; Luing 6 by 2; Shuna 2^ by 1^. Each of the other 
islands is less than a'square diile. On the east side, the parish is 
bounded by Kilninver and Kilmelfort, from which it is separated 
on the DQrth-east by the Sound of Clachan, and on the south-east 

* Draim up bj the late incumbent^ the Rev. Finlaj M^Pherson. 



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72 ARGTLESHIRE. 

by Lochmelfort, one of the outlets of which lies between Shuna 
and the parish of Craignish. On the south it is bounded by the 
north end of the Sound of Jura, a branch of which, from I to 2 
miles in breadth, separates Luing on the south*west from Scarba 
and other small islands belonging to the parish of Jura. On the 
north-west, it is bounded by the Sound of Mull, which is here 
about 8 miles in breadth, thus leaving a part of the parish due 
west, of some miles in extent, open to the Atlantic Ocean. 

The islands of Soil and Luing, which constitute the principal 
part of the parish, form one contiguous range, with the exception 
of the narrow sound of Cuan for 10 miles in length. Along the 
east side of these islands, the land is low and indented with bays. 
On the west, the coast is generally high and rocky, particularly 
about £asdale, thus presenting a bold front to the waves of the 
Atlantic, which in stormy weather beat with great violence against 
these shores. 

There are no high mountains in the parish, but there are seve- 
ral ridges of hills rising in some parts to the height of 600 or 800 
feet above the level of (he sea* The island of Seil consists very 
much of undulating low hills, with fertile slopes and valleys. 
Luing is generally more level. The soil in both these islands is 
well adapted for every species of crop, but the climate is so varia- 
ble and moist, that the expectations of the husbandman are often 
disappointed. The district on the mainland consists chiefly of hill 
pasture. 

There are no rivers in this neighbourhood, but their place is 
supplied to a certain extent, by the number of narrow sounds by 
which the parish is so much intersected. The Sounds of Insh and 
Easdale are on the west coast, lying between the islands of the 
same names and Seil. The Sound of Clachan, which separates 
Seil from the mainland, is only a few yards in breadth. It runs 
nearly in a straight line for about two miles, and might be taken 
for an alpine river. A bridge was built across this sound fifty 
years ago, being perhaps the first instance of the kind in Great 
Britain where an island was thus joined to the mainland. This 
bridge is 70 feet wide, and 26 feet above high water mark, so that 
small vessels of twenty tons burden may pass under it. The skiffs 
from the north find a safe passage through Clachan in bad wea* 
ther, when they could not venture with safety round the west 
coast. This sound is very shallow, being dry in some parts at low 
water. The Sound of Cuan is much broader and deeper than that 
of Clachan, and the current here is very strong, running at the 

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KILBRANDON AND KILCHATTAN. 73 

rate of seven or eight miles an ho4ir. The tide here takes a very 
circuitous course round the north end of Torsay> which juts out 
from the north-east end of Luing, and from which it is separated 
by a sound a few feet in breadth, and might easily be shut up al- 
together. The Sound of Shuna lies between the island of that 
name and Luing« 

Bays. — There are several bays and harbours in the parish 
where vessds of any size may safely ride at anchor, and where 
many of those which sail along the west coast run for shelter in 
8tonny weather. The principal bays are, that of Ardmaddy on 
the mainland, Bulvicar in Seil, and Blackmtllbay in Luing. There 
is also a good harbour at Easdale, and another at Toberonochy, on 
the east side of Luing. 

Climate. — It is well known that the weather in winter is much 
milder on the west coast than in the interior of the country,<'^the 
frost is not so intense, and the snow does not continue long on 
the ground. There being no rain-guage in the neighbourhood, 
the quantity of rain that fells cannot be given, but there is seldom 
any complaint of the lack of moisture. From a note taken, some 
time ago, of the prevailing winds, it appears that the wind general- 
ly ranges from south to north-west for two-thirds of the year. The 
north wind generally brings dry weather along with it. Although 
the climate is moist, it is rather salubrious, owing to the sea air, 
which is here very strong and pure. There are very few diseases 
peculiar to the district. Those arising from exposure to cold and 
damp, and from a defective and unwholesome diet, are the most 
prevalent, such as rheumatism, consumption, dropsy, &c. As there 
is always a medical man employed to attend the quarries, the people 
have an opportunity of getting their children vaccinated, which, 
however, is too much neglected till small-pox breaks out amongst 
them. . Typhus fever and small-pox are often conveyed from the 
south country by those young people who go thither in quest of 
employment. Their friends, from motives of mistaken kindness, 
insist on taking them home before they have fully recovered, which 
brings disease amongst the people. For some years past, owing 
chiefly to this cause, cases of fever have been very prevalent in the 
parish. 

II. — Civil History. 
Heritors. — About three-fourths of the parish belong to the 
Marquis of Breadalbane. The other heritors are, the heirs of the 
late John M^Dougall, Esq. of Ardincaple ; Major Campbell of 



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74 



AR6TLE8HIRE. 



Melfort; and the Town- Council of Gla^w, to whom the hlani 

of Shuna was left by the late Yeates, Esq. for the behoof 

of some charitable and literary institutions in that city. 

Mansion Housesj Sfc. — Ardmaddy Castle is one of the seats of 
the Marquis of Breadalbane, where the family have beea in the 
habit of residing for some weeks, during the summer season^ for 
the last few years* It is situated on the mainland at the head of 
a fine bay, and commands an extensive prospect of sea and land. 
The castle^ which is a very old building, stands on an eminence 
of a conical shape^ which has the appearance of an artificial mound. 
It was theresidenceof afamilyof the M^Dougallsi when that clan was 
in possession of the greatest part of Lorn. It was occupied in the 
time of persecution, during the reign of Charles ILandof his brother 
James, by Lord Niel Campbell, a brother of the Earl of Argyle, 
who was put to death in 1685. He made som^ additions to the 
former building. His own initials and those of his Lady (Cathe* 
rine Kerr,) are cut in a stone in one of the gables, N. C, C. E., 
1676. Lord Niel himself was also a sufferer in those times of 
tyranny and blood. There is a small cave in the face of a rock, 
at a short distance from Ardmaddy, where it is said he used to 
conceal himself from his pursuers. In this castle, the late Mar- 
quis of Breadalbane was born in 1762. It was then occupied by 
his fitther Colin Campbell, Esq. of Carwhin, the presumptive 
heir to the title and estates of the Breadalbane family, and whose 
memory is still held in the greatest veneration throughout the 
whole district of Nether Lorn. The only other mansion house 
in the parish, is that built at Ardincaple, by the grandfather of the 
present proprietor about fifty years ago. It is now occupied by 
Dr Archibald Smith, who resided mauy years in Lima, and is 
the author of the able and interesting work entitled '* Peru as 
it is." 

BegiOers^^^There is a volume of session records beginning 
with the year 1 753^ and continued, though not very regularly kept, till 
1798« Owing to some cause not well explained, the following vo« 
lume was lost or destroyed twenty years ago. The parish regis- 
ter has been regularly kept since the induction of Mr Beith in 
1826. 

Antiquities. — The only remains of antiquity in the parish are 
the ruins of some old forts, so common in the Highlands. There 
is one of these on the top of a hill in the Island of Luing. It is 
of a circular form, built of dry stones, and was apparently a place 



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KILBRANDON AND KILCHATTAN. 75 

of great strength, as the wall is about ten feet thick. There is 
another in Torsay, called the Castle of Dogs, and supposed to 
have been a hunting seat of the McDonalds. 

IIL — Population, 
Nothing is known of the ancient state of the population of this 
parish ; but from the number of churches in the times of Popery, 
it must have been very considerable. 

The population in 1755 was 1498 
1772, 1750 
1793, 2060 
1801, 2278 
1811, 2327 
1821, 2644 
1831, 2833 

The increase in the population has been chiefly owing to the 
great number of people who are employed in the slate quarries. 

Character J §t?. of the People. — The people of this parish, who, 
with the exception of a few families, consist entirely of the labour- 
ing classes, are very intelligent and industrious. They are de- 
cidedly superior, in point of knowledge, to the population of most 
of our Highland parishes, and their moral character is in general 
very correct and regular. Those employed in the quarries cannot 
perhaps save much money ; but as they are supplied with a pro* 
vision for themselves and their families, though in debt to the 
Company, they are, upon the wbole^ in somewhat comfortable cir« 
cumstances. 

The Gaelic language is universally spoken by all the natives of 
this district. The people in general can understand and speak 
English tolerably well ; but they have a great predilection for their 
mother tongue. There are scarcely a dozen people in the whole 
parish* who do not understand Gaelic, and these are strangers 
from the south. 

Mr John Whyte, the engineer of the slate works, who is an 
elder in the Established Church, and teaches one of the Sabbath 
schools, has, during the last three winters, delivered a course of 
lectures on mechanics in the Gaelic language. The people in 
general, and especially the young men at Easdale, seem to appro* 
ciate his laudable and gratuitous efforts for imparting to them use* 
ful and interesting knowledge. It is believed that this is the 6rst 
attempt that has been made to communicate such knowledge to 
the Highlanders in their own language. Lord Breadalbane, to 
whose liberality this parish is so much indebted in many respects, 
has lately presented this infant institution with an air-pump, to 



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76 AUGYLESHIttE. 

enable Mr Whyte to illustrate some of his subjects to greater ad- 
vantage. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — The state of husbandry in this part of the coun- 
try has been gneatly improved of late years. A considerable ex- 
tent of waste land has been brought into a state of cultivation, 
and much has been done in rendering what was formerly arable 
more productive. The Marquis of Breadalbane gives great en- 
couragement to his tenants and crofters in improving their lands 
by draining, ditching, and the work is done at the mutual expense 
of landlord and tenants, under the superintendence of an overseer, 
who lines out the drains and sees them properly executed, and 
then values the work done. From one-half to two-thirds is cre- 
dited to the tenants in their rents. The drains are made of va- 
rious dimensions, according to the nature of the ground. In some 
places, they are built and covered with flags, and in others they 
are 6lled entirely with small stones. In tilly and mossy land, they 
are cut according to the thorough draining system, but where 
spring water is found rising at the foot of banks, drains of from 
four to six feet deep are often made, and found to be very eifec- 
tivew 

The general stock consists of black-cattle of the west Highland 
breed, of which there are excellent folds in the parish selected 
and attended to with great care. There are only two or three 
sheep stocks, which are mostly of the black* faced kind, and of me- 
dium quality. 

There was an Agricultural Society established on the lands of 
the Marquis, five years ago, and annual competitions are held for 
black-cattle and sheep, at which premiums are awarded to the 
best. Premiums are also given to the best ploughmen, and for 
the best kept horses and harness, and for the best plots of turnips, 
a crop hitherto much neglected, but which, it is expected, will soon 
be grown more extensively. His Lordship gives prizes also to 
those cottars and small tenants who have the best managed gar- 
dens. The good effects of these encouragements are already very 
evident. 

The arable land rents, according to quality, from L.1 to L*2, 5s. 
per acre, Scots. The average rent of the mere grazing of a cow 
is from L.2 to L.8 ; of a sheep, from Ss. to 4s. The rate of 
w^es is from Is. 4d. to 2s. to day labourers ; and from 2s. to 2s. 



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KILBRANDON AND KILCHATTAN. 77 

6d« to artisans. Hired farm-servants receive from L. 8 to L.12 in 
the year ; women from L.4 to L.6. 

Tiie leases are of various duration upon the larger farms, and 
most of the smaller possessions are held at will from year to year. 
The whole tenantry on Lord Breadalbane's pro|)erty hold their 
lands under regular heads of lease, whether from year to year or 
for a longer period,-— and even those who have their tenants at 
will, have no hesitation in signing these, knowing that so long as 
they conduct themselves properly and pay their rents, no other 
person will get their possessions. A five course rotation is pre- 
scribed for farms, and a four course for crofts, — in targe posses* 
sions a six course rotation is reckoned preferable. 

A rule established by Lord Breadalbane on his property, with 
regard to cottars, has had an excellent effect in protecting them 
from oppression on the part of the tenants, and might be adopted 
with great advantage on other large Highland estates. No ten- 
ant isallowed either to take in or to remove cottars without his Lord- 
ship's permission, and those who are poor hold their houses and 
gardens rent free. As to those cottars who are in circumstances 
to pay rent, a certain sum is fixed by direction of the factor on 
the estate, as the value of the house and garden, beyond which 
the tenant cannot make any demand. And the cottar is not bound 
to work for the tenant a single day, if he prefers to pay cash, which 
leaves him free to find labour, wherever it is most to his advantage. 
The rent of a house and garden is from 15s. to dOs., according to 
the value and the ability of the cottar to pay. This is a complete check 
to that thraldom to which cottars are subjected, whan left to the 
uncontrolled will of a merciless tenant, who would exact from them 
their labour during the greater part of the year, giving them no- 
thing more than a small piece of potato ground in addition to the 
house and garden. 

Quarries and Mines. — The ISasdale slate quarries are the only 
works in the parish of this description. The quality of the rock 
is known to be very superior, and of great durability. The for- 
mation is very similar to that of the Welsh slate works, as de- 
scribed by Professor Sedgwick, so far as regards the distortions 
of the sedimentary bed ; and it is surprising with what accuracy 
the quarriers can trace the different stones, or layers, through 
thin distorted beds, after sinking and again reappearing. 

These quarries have been wrought for nearly two centuries, 
and they are still carried on very extensively. Upwards of 200 



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78 ARGTLBSHIUE. 

men are employed in tfaem^ producing from four to fire millions 
of slate annually. Under the superintendence of the present ma- 
nager, James Robertson, Esq. the improvements made in machin- 
ery have been taken advantage of in these works. The labour, 
formerly done by horses and carts, and wheelbarrows, is now per- 
formed by steam-engines and railroads. 

There are, altogether, four quarries wrought at present, viz. 
the principal one at Easdale, one at Balvicar in Soil, and two in 
Luing. One quarry at Easdale is 120 (set below the level of the 
sea. 

The quarriers are paid for the slates at certain rates per thousand. 
They generally earn from L»dO to L.85 each in the year. The 
men employed in cleaning out the slate rubbish are paid at the 
rate of Is. 3d. to Is. 8d. per day. 

In Luing and Soil, there are appearances of lead ore and zinc, but 
these have not yet been discovered in such quantity as to encourage 
the working. There is also a marble quarry near Ardmaddy, which 
was wrought for some time, but has been discontinued, being found 
unprofitable. 

Fisherieg. — The herring fishing was at one time very productive 
on this coast; but of late years, those who follow this occupation 
have not been very successful. At the south end of Luing, how- 
ever, considerable quantities are taken with the fly in May and 
June, and sell at a high price. Last year. Lord Breadalbane gave 
Knes to about forty of the Luing people, for the purpose of encou- 
raging them to fish for cod and ling. It is hoped their endeavours 
will be successful, as this sort of fishing has been too much ne- 
glected in this quarter. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Marhet^Towfu — The nearest market town is Oban, which is 
sixteen miles to the north. 

ViBageM. — There are five villages in the parish, the largest of 
which is I^dale. This village is built on both sides of the Sound 
of Easdale, and contains a population of about 800 individuals. 
The houses of the quarriers are only one story high, and slated, 
and they all have a neat and comfortable appearance. All the 
steamers which ply between Glasgow and the northern ports pass 
through the Sound of Easdale. There is thus a frequent and 
speedy conveyance both to the north and south. The following 
note was taken in 1826, of all the vessels that entered the Har- 
bour of Easdale in the course of a twelvemonth: 7 brigs, 15 



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KILBRANDON AND KlLCHATTAN. 79 

schooners, 5 galliots, 254 sloops, and 245 steamers, including 
their repeated trips. Here might be seen, some years ago, (1828), 
the engineer of the work plying his little bark across the sound, 
propelled by the Archimedes screw.* This ingenious piece of 
mechanism was his own invention. In this village there is an 
inn, several shops, and a post-office. There is a daily post be« 
tween Easdale and Oban. 

The other villages are, Balvicar in Seil, Toberonochy, Millbay, 
and Colipol in Luing. All these have been built in the vicinity 
of slate quarries ; and, as some of these quarries are not wrought 
to any extent, being found unproductive, many of the inhabitants 
of these villages are often ill supplied with employment. 

Roods. — The parish is well supplied with roads and ferries. 
The public road from Oban enters the parish from the north- 
east, at Clachan Bridge. It passes through the centre of Seil 
and Luing. There are several cross roads, which are kept in 
good repair. 

Eeeknastical State. — The church is situated in the centre of 
the parish, at the south end of the Island of Seil, close to the 
Ferry of Cuan. It was built about one hundred years ago, and ac- 
commodates 600 sitters. No seat rents are exacted. All the people, 
except the inhabitants of Seil, have to cross a ferry, and some of 
them more than one in coming to church, which circumstance, 
in bad weather, prevents their attending regularly. In good 
weather, the church is always crowded. Taking into account the 
lai^e population and the obstructions by ferries, there is scarcely 
a parish in the Highlands or Islands of Scotland, where an addi- 
tional* church is more required. The great body of the people 
belong to the Established Church. The number of communicants 
in about 400. 

The number of Dissenters in the parish, as reported to the 
Church Commissioners in 1836, was 200. They belong chiefly 
to the Covenanters and Independents. There are two persons 
belonging to the Baptists, and one Roman Catholic family. Dis- 
sent in this district has been owing entirely to the abuse of pa- 
tronage in former times. 

The manse is sufficiently large and commodious. It was built 
in 1827. Before that time, there was no manse in the parish. 

* Mr John Wbyte*s claims to this invention are stated in a letter addressed by him 
to the Editor of the Scottish Guardian Newspaper, and inserted in that Journal of 
date the 26th June 1840. 



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dl) ARGYLESmBR. 

The former miDisters used to occupy a large farm at a low rent, 
the farm-house serviog fur a manse, aixU by this means, the old 
glebe, which was of some value, has been lost to the church. 
The present glebe contains very little arable land, except a piece 
of reclaimed moss« Its value may be about L.15 a-year* The 
stipend is the minimum. The sum of L.14» Os. 8d. is annually 
received out of the Exchequer. 

Edacation. — There are generally eight schools in operation in 
this parish during the winter months. These were attended in 
1840 by 6:25 scholars. There are also five Sabbath schools, 
which are all well attended. There are two parochial schoolmas* 
ters. The schoolmaster of Kilbrandon, who resides in Soil, has 
the maximum salary of L.34 a year, with a dwelling-house and 
garden. The other, who resides in Luing, receives L.25 a year, 
with a schooUhouse and garden, but without a dwelling-house ; 
but he rents a croft on which a comfortable house was lately built^ 
partly at his own expense. There are two remote localities where 
the respective proprietors give L.5 a year to enable the people to 
employ a teacher. In the populous island of Easdale, there is a 
school supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Know- 
ledge. The salary is L.15, with L.d for an assistant during win- 
ter. There are three other schools on the teachers' own adven* 
ture. The branches taught in these schools are English and 
Gaelic reading, writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping. The pa- 
rochial schoolmasters teach Latin, navigation, and mathematics 
when required. The school fees are, for reading, ^s. per quarter ,* 
with writing, Ss. ; arithmetic, 4s. ; Latin, ds. The people in 
general make great efforts to give some education to their 
children ; but many of them, from their poverty, are obliged to 
withdraw their children from school before they hare made any 
great progress, and send them to earn something for themselves. 
Owing to the same causey the school fees are not well paid ; so 
that those teachers who are without an endowment cannot be ex- 
pected to be very efficient. Lord Breadalbane gives an annual 
sum for prizes, which are awarded at a public competition of all 
the schools in the parish, and which tends very much to stimulate 
and encourage both teachers and scholars; but, without some 
adequate endowment, there can be no great improvement in many 
of the schools in this district. 

Poor and Parochial Funds* — The number of poor upon the roll 



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KILBRANDON AND KILCHATTAN. 81 

is 108. A few more receive occasional aid. Those on the roll 
have received, for some years past, from 10s. to L.1, 5s. each in 
the year, according to their necessities. The church collections, 
with other dues, amount to about Lfo20 a year. The Marquis of 
Breadalbane gives very liberal donations, which enable the 
kirk-session to give the sums above-mentioned to the poor. 
His Lordship also allows small pensions to some aged and reduced 
tenants. The superannuated quarriers are chiefly supported by a 
' fund of their own, arising from a nominal rent of 5s. annually paid 
for their houses and gardens. The Easdale Slate Company give 
a monthly allowance of meal to disabled quarriers and tl^ir fami- 
lies. \ 

Savings Bank. — Under the patronage of Lord Breadalbane, a 
Savings bank was established at Easdale, two years ago ; but it is 
now merged in the National Security Savings' Bank at Oban. It 
is hoped, when its advantages are better understood, that the 
class of people for whose benefit it has been established, will avail 
themselves of the opportunity thus afforded them of making some 
provision for the time of sickness and old age. 

Pud* — The quarriers at Easdale are all supplied with coals 
from Glasgow at the rate of 18s. per ton. The farmers generally 
use peats, which were, at one time, very plentiful in these islands, 
and easily i^cured ; but are now becoming rather scarce, particu- 
larly in the island of Seil. 

My ld4a 



ARGTLE. 



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PARISH OF GLENURCHY & INISHAIL. 

PRESBYTERY OF LORN, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. DUNCAN MACLEAN, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Names. — The parish of Glennrchy, — so called from the valley 
in which it chiefly lies, and the river which flows through it, — was 
of old known by the nanie of Clachan an disart The valley it- 
self takes its name from the river Urchay, which, issuing from 
a small lake in the braes or upland part of the parish, traverses a 
great part of it ; and, after a run of sixteen miles, empties itself in 
Lochawe, close to the ruins of Caolchurn Castle. The parish stiH 
retains its ancient name in all ecclesiastical deeds and records. 
All the minutes of session are uniformly dated at Clachan an 
disart The name, as stated in the former report, signifies tAe temple 
or sanctuary of the Supreme Being* Tradition alleges, that Dniid- 
ism, of old, occupied the spot on which the church now stands ; 
that her clachan or circle of stones stood, and that her detestable 
mysteries were celebrated, on the hallowed spot whither the mul- 
titudes now go up to worship the God and Father of our Lord 
and Saviour Jesus Christ. 

Inishail, the conjoined parish, derives its appellation from an 
island of the same name in Lochawe, and on which stood the pa- 
rish church, from the Reformation till the year 1736, when it was 
transferred to its present site. The ruins of the old church are still 
visible, as are those of a nunnery said to have been of the Cister- 
tian order. Close by these interesting ruins lies a burying ground, 
on which some of the grave stones furnish beautiful specimens of 
ancient sculpture. Inishail, according to some, signifies the beaufi-; 
fid island^ and is so called on account of its superiority in this re- 
spect to the neighbouring islands. According to others, it signifies 
the Island of St Paul^ because it was, as is supposed, dedicated, 
with the religious establishment that stood upon it, to that distin- 
guished apostle, — in contradistinction to the island of Inishdruinicb, 



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OLBNURCHT AND INISHAIL. 



83 



or the Isle of Druids, in its close neigbbourbood. According to 
others, it signifies the Island of Paul, viz. Paul the Treasurer of 
Scotland, or, as he is called in Gaelic, Paul an Sporain, the found- 
er of the noble house of Argyle, who is said to have been buried 
here ; whilst, according to a fourth party, and in accordance with 
a still current tradition, it signifies the Island of Aillidh, or the 
beautiful, a daughter of a King of Denmark, whose remains are 
said to be interred here. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The extreme length of the parish, 
from the shores of Lochetive at Bunawe, on the west, to the bor- 
ders of Perthshire, near Tyndrum, in Breadalbane, on the east, 
is from 24 to 25 miles. Its breadth is various and unequal, rang- 
ing from 5 to 20 miles. Its average breadth is about 12 miles. 
Number of square miles, about 300. It is bounded on the east, 
by the parish of Killin ; on the west, by the parishes of luverary, 
Kilchrenan, and Muckairn, and for a short space by Lochetive ; 
on the south, by the parishes of Kilmorick,. Inverary, and Arro- 
char ; and on the north-west and north, by the parishes of Ard- 
chattan and Appin ; and on the north-east, near the confines of 
Rannoch, by the parish of Fortingal. 

Topographical Appearances, — The principal range of mountains 
in the parish may be designated the Cruachan range, which 
stretches along the north and north-east side of the parish, rear- 
ing up its gigantic masses, and forming a formidable barrier, 
between Glenurchy and the counterminous parishes of Ardchat- 
tan and Appin. This range embraces several mountains of great 
elevation, such as Beinabhuiridh, or hill of routing; Stob an 
daimh, or the stot'^s peak ; Bein Macmonaidh, or mountain son 
of the hill ; and Bein dourain, or the mountain of ottars, — a moun- 
tain dear to the Highland muse, and rendered immortal by the 
most distinguished of our later Highland bards, the pre-eminently 
poetical, though illiterate Duncan Ban M^Intyre. In the parish 
of Inishail, there are no hills of any great height. The only range 
which occurs, is that which separates it from the parish of Inverary, 
a great part of which comes, with greater propriety, under the 
designation of moor, than either of hill or mountain. This range, 
which stretches away from the westward to the eastern extremity 
of Lochawe, extends along the south side of the vale of the Ur- 
chay, — forming, by its comparative insipidity and tameness, a 
marked and striking contrast to the steep, rugged, and lofty 



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84 ARGYLESHIRE. 

summits of Cruachan, and the lone and lovely green corries and 
valleys which they overhang and overshadow. 

This range of hills, or rather moors, terminate at length at the 
base of Meali nan Tighearnan, viz. the hill of the chiefs^ and 
Beinachleidh, two of the offshoots and buttresses of Beinlaoidb, or 
mountain of fawns, Beinlaoidh is unquestionably the loftiest 
mountain in the parish, (Bein Cruachan being situate in the pa* 
rish of Ardchattan,) and although now denuded and shorn of the 
woods which even at a comparatively recent period clothed and 
adorned its sides, it is one of the most elegant of mountains in a dis- 
trict in which it is no easy matter to adjust the competing claims of 
a host of rivals for this distinction. This constitutes the western 
extremity of a chain of mountains which stretches eastward, form- 
ing the southern boundary of the parish of Killin, including in the 
number the towering and gigantic Bein* More and Bein- Ann* 

The Cruachan chain is occasionally broken and interrupted by 
interjacent corries and valleys. In the number of the latter, we 
may place Glenstrae, at one period the homestead and fastness of 
the chief of the brave but persecuted and proscribed Clan Gregor. 
The valley which gives its name to the parish, is another. The 
former, which lies immediately at the base of the principal off- 
shoot of Cruachan, is separated from the latter by a ridge of hills 
of comparatively low elevation, whilst this, in its turn, is separated 
from Glenlochay, a long winding valley, (through which lies the 
line of communication with Perthshire,) by anoUier range of hills 
of still lower elevation. These three valleys open from the east 
and north-east on that part of Glenurchy which the natives call 
the Strath, or plain. Glenlochay runs nearly eastward, with a 
bend or inclination to the north. Glenurchy proper, which lies 
north of the other, and which inclines in the same way, opens 
up a communication with Inverness-shire, by the Black Mount, 
and the much admired and celebrated Glencoe. The river Ur« 
chay, after receiving the waters of the Lochay, at a point two 
miles east from the church, now swollen into a beautiful river, 
winds its course through the Strath, forming several beautiful 
islands as it advances, amongst others that on which stand the 
church and manse, and which forms the better part of the minis- 
ter's glebe, — until, having received the waters of the Strae, it dis- 
charges itself at length into the magnificent Lochawe, close to 
the base of the ruins of Caolchurn. 

Cavesy 4'c.— 'The only cave of any interest is that in which 



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GLENURCHY AND INISHAIL. 85 

MacFadyen sought refuge after his defeat by Wallace at the pass 
of Brauder, aud where he was dragged out and executed. It is 
still pointed out as MacFadyeu's Cave, in the face of Craig an 
Araidh, as is the stone on which he stood to breathe a little in 
the middle of the Awe after his defeat, and from which, after 
relieving himself of his armour, and, throwing it into tbe river, he 
plunged into the stream, and, amid showers of darts, he gained 
the opposite bank. The stone is still called MacFadyen's stone, 
and as such is pointed out to the stranger. 

The parish has not above three-fourths of a mile of sea coast 
altogether : this is at Bunawe. The character of the shore is sandy. 

Hydrography. — The principal lakes in the parish are Lochawe 
and Lochtolla. The latter is situated in the braes of Glenurchy. 
It is but a small, yet a lovely sheet of water. It is about four miles 
in length, and its average breadth is a mile. On the north side, 
at Ardvrecknish, the Marquis of Breadalbane, sole proprietor of 
Glenurchy, has a shooting-lodge set down in the centre of his vast 
deerrforest of Corichbad. The lodge, with its young thriving 
plantations, contrasts beautifully with the ptne«wood forest of 
Derridarroch on the opposite shore of the lake, and lends, with 
its exciting associations of deer, and hounds, and huntsmen, a 
high, degree of interest to this lone and solitary mountain tarn. 

The parish stretches westward, on both sides of Lochawe, eight 
miles. This, beyond controversy, is one of the noblest and love* 
Kest of Scotland's lakes. Its length is variously estimated. It is 
somewhere between twenty-four and thirty miles. Its breadth is 
very unequal, expanding in some places and contracting in others. 
It may be averaged at a mile, excepting towards its eastern extre- 
mity, where its principal charms and attractions lie, and where it 
expands into a breadth of three miles. Its depth varies in different 
places. It is in some places seventy fathoms deep. It is said to 
be very deep along the base of Cruachan, and at the gorge of the 
magnificent pass by which its waters effect their escape, and urge 
their turbulent and noisy career to Lochetive. This noble sheet of 
water is far from being so generally known, admired, and frequent- 
ed, as its superior claims would justly authorize to expect The 
upper or eastern end, that which lies in this parish, is decided- 
ly, in point of historical interest and scenic beauty, far superior 
to the other. Here, peering above the embowering trees, which 
have succeeded in veiling it partially from the view, Traocheillein 
Castle^ at one time the seat and stronghold of the chief of the clan 



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86 ARGYLESHIRE. 

MacNaughtan, and built by a Sir Gilbert of that name in the reign 
of King Alexander III., solicits the traveller's admiration. Supe* 
rior architectural beauty, and historical recollections and associa* 
tions, may, for other ruins, procure an ampler measure of interest 
and admiration, yet few there are which can, in point of local beau« 
tyi enter into successful competition with Fraocheilein Caade.. 
Based on its own twin, yet tiny rock in the middle of the lake, — 
girdled about with the adjacent islands of Inchchonnain, Inishail, 
and several others, — commanding a view of the lake eastward to 
its termination at Caolchurn, and, beyond it, of the valleys of the 
Urchay and Strae, and westward for a space of eight miles,— -over- 
hung, on the northern shore, by the towering summits of Beio- 
cruachan, having in full prospect the welUwooded shores of Ard- 
teatle and Cladich, — nor less on the opposite banks, the lovely 
plantations, and the elegant mansions and pleasure-grounds of In- 
ishdraonich and New Inverawe, — few indeed are the ruins that can 
enter into successful rivalship with those of Fraocheilein Castle. 
Nor lacks it its own historical and poetical associations. Here stood 
the Hesperides of Ossian ; and here, mortally wounded by the 
monster dragon that guarded the forbidden fruit, perished the 
chivalrous and youthful Traoch, — but not ere his venomous foe pe* 
rished under his powerful arm.*^ It is alleged that the tenure by 
which Sir Gilbert and his heirs held his castle and neighbouring 
possessions from his sovereign, was, that he should give him be6t- 
ting entertainment in the event that he should ever claim it, special 
provision being made that the king should be accommodated with 
a bed of clean straw.f The key of this ancient stronghold, which 
was, for many centuries, the property and residence of Macdhono. 
chie of Inverawe, was picked up among the ruins, not many years 
ago, by a gentleman in the neighbourhood, who recently handed it 
over to Campbell of Monzie, the present proprietor, who has it 
now in his possession. 

Much superior in point of extent, and certainly in nowise infe- 
rior in any other respect, either to this or any other ruin in the 
Highlands of Scotland, and at a distance of about five miles east* 
ward, at the extremity of the lake, stands Caolchurn Castle, now 
in ruins, still the property, and, for centuries, one of the many re* 
sidences and fortresses of the noble family of Breadalbane. This 
magnificent pile is based upon a rock, which is said to have been, 
at the time of its erection, an island. Standing on the moulder- 

* Vid« Former StatuUc»I Report. f Ibid. 



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GLENURCHY AND INISHAIL. 87 

ing battlements, or looking out through its narrow casements, 
you may extend your view westward, (unbroken by the nume- 
rous islands that repose like emeralds on the bosom of the lake,) 
to a distance of nine or ten miles, until at length the lake ap- 
parently terminates at the ferry of Portsonachan. On the north 
side, Bein-cruachan, separated from you by the narrow channel 
of the Urchay, which partly gives the castle its name, and is 
beautifully wooded midway up its summit, rears his lofty brow, 
until it is enveloped amid the clouds of heaven. On the south, 
and separated from you by a narrow bay, rise the beautiful knolls 
of Ardteatle and Kenchraikin, — here skirted with wood, there 
mantled with heath and green breckon, — with their lovely glades 
opening between, the favourite haunt of the hare and the roe. In 
front of the castle opens, towards the north-east, the bleak, dark, 
and frowning Glenstrae ; and, towards the south-east, and in mar- 
vellous and striking contrast, the verdant, soft, and smiling strath 
and vale of Urchay, terminating at the base of the lofty and coni- 
cal Beinlaoidh. In the centre of this beautiful panorama, em- 
bowered in wood, partial glimpses may be obtained of the manse, 
and parish church, and inn, awaking far other emotions from those 
excited by the castellated pile from which the survey is made, apH 
whence the eye roams delighted over the noble and lovely scenes 
that open away on either hand. 

Caolchurn Castle, at once the memorial and chronicler 6f 
the feudal power and grandeur of the noble family which still 
owns it, is said to have been, before it came into its possession, 
the residence and stronghold of MacGregor, Laird of Glenur- 
chy. A tradition exists, that, before it came into the posses- 
sion, either of the Clan Campbell or Clan Gregor, it was the 
residence of an ancient tribe, now no longer existing in the pa«> 
rish, of the name of Paterson ; and that, while in their posses- 
sion, it was designated the White House of Eilaineolain. It 
came, together with the lordship of Glenurchy, into the posses- 
sion of the family of Breadalbane, either in the close of the reign 
of James II. or in the beginning of the reign of his successor. It 
is highly probable that the Clan Gregor, along with the neigh<> 
bouring Clans of M^Nab and M'Naughtan, became involved in 
the wars of Bruce and Baliol, and that their castles and lands be- 
came the reward of the distinguished services of the Knights of 
Lochawe. It was bestowed, with other appendages, as his patri* 



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88 ARGTLESHIBE. 

mony, by Sir Duncan, the twelfth knight, on his second son, Sir 
Colin, Knight of Rhodes, or, as he is called by Highland Shea^ 
nachies, Caiiean dubh na Rdimh^ the founder of the house of 
Breadalbane ; and hence the patronymic designation of this noble 
family is Mac Caillein mhic Dhonoehaidh^ or Colin son of Duncan. 
He partly rebuilt and enlarged the castle. Tradition gi?es his * 
lady credit for the erection of the great tower or donjon of the 
castle. She, it is said, occupied herself thus, during Sir Colin's 
absence in the Holy Land. The date of its erection was 1440. It 
received several additions at different subsequent periods. The 
south side is said to have been built, during the fifteenth century ; 
and the north, which exceeds the rest in spaciousness and ele- 
gance, was built by the first Earl of Breadalbane in the year 16 15.* 
The noble family occasionally occupied it till about a century ago. 
About seventy years ago, in the absence, and without the privity of 
its noble proprietor, and with a view, it is said, to a paltry saving of 
expense, it was unroofed, and its materials used, not, as has been 
alleged,! in the erection of Tayniouth Castle, but of farm-houses 
and offices in the parish. This hastened its decay prematurely. 
It is lovely in its ruins, and intensely interesting from the records 
of other times connected with it. 

The pass of Brandir, whilst its sublime scenery is greatly en- 
hanced in point of interest, by many historical recollections and 
associations,! is, independently of all these, one of the most magni- 
ficent which the Highlands present It is by this mountain pass 
that the waters of Lochawe effect their escape to the sea. The 
north side is formed by the massy, abrupt, and rocky, yet well- 
wooded base of Cruachan, which rises in some places like a per- 
pendicular wall from the water, and which, until the present 
line of road was executed, rendered it impassable to any except 
the sure-footed anci steady-headed mountaineer. Even he had, at 
one place, still known by the name of the ladder rock, to climb up 
by a ladder, as the name would intimate, the face of a bold and 
precipitous rock, which then shot down its masses abrupt to the 
water edge. This formidable barrier has, at length, yielded to hu- 
man might and ingenuity; and its removal has given access to scenes 
nowhere .surpassed, either in point of loveliness or grandeur, and 
rendered the sea at Bunawe accessible to the mountaineer for ex- 
porting his produce to southern markets. The south side of the pass 

• Vide General Stevrart'k History of Highland Regiments, 
t See Bridal of Caolchurn. \ See Blind Harry. 



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GLENURCHY AND INISHAIL; 89 

is formed by the bold, rugged, and overhangiDg rocks of Craigand- 
avuaidh, now completely shorn of its once rich garniture of wood. 
At the gap, or upper part, and only distinguished for a space 
from its parent lake by its narrowed and contracted dimensions, the 
Awe steals slowly and silently along, until at length, as if alive to 
the blessings of freedom, it rushes rapidly, foaming, and thunder* 
ing along its rocky bed, till, after a short but rapid career of four 
miles through its own lovely valley, it empties itself in Lochetive 
at Bunawe. 

The only rivers in the parish worthy of the name, are the 
Urchay and the Awe. The circumstance that the former escapes 
from its reservoir in a lateral direction, is rather a singular and 
anomalous one in the history of rivers. It is believed that it holds 
almost universally true, that their outlet is at the extremity of their 
parent lake, and not, as in this instance, at the side. It is the 
current belief, that the Awe, at a remote period, formed no ex- 
ception to this general rule, that Lochawe discharged its waters 
by its western extremity into the sea at Loch Crinan. The 
foundation on which this belief rests, is partly a faint and dying 
tradition in the country to this effect, and the names of some loca- 
lities in the supposed line of its ancient channel, and the level, 
open nature of the valley that stretches away towards Loch Crinan 
from the western extremity of the lake, together with the anoma • 
lous character of its present outlet. The run of the Awe, as al- 
ready stated, is short, although the volume of its water is great, 
as compared with that of most Highland rivers. Its breadth va- 
ries according to the nature of the bed over which it runs ; from 
two to three hundred feet, may be a fair average. Its direction 
is north-west. It is, generally speaking, a shallow stream; al- 
though pools occasionally occur of considerable depth. Its flow is 
very rapid ; indeed, until it approaches Lochetive, it may be describ- 
ed as a series of small rapids and puny cataracts. The Urchay^ 
whose source, length, and character, have been already in some de- 
gree described, is, like its neighbour, an exceedingly beautiful river,, 
and like it of considerable value on account of its. salmon fishings.* 
It may lay claim to a greater variety of character than its neighbour. 
Its flows from the parent lake for a space of six miles, rapid 
and turbulent ; and at one place, Caitnish, it descends by a suc- 
cession of bounds or leaps of considerable height, to the more level 
part of the valley ; and thereafter, although occasionally assum- 
ing its former character, it meandeni silently along, until at length 



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90 ARGYLESHinF. 

it loses iUelf iu Locliawe* Its breadth may average that of the 
Awe. It is generally shallow, until it approaches the termioatioD 
of its course, when it acquires a much greater depth, and becomes 
slow and sluggish in its motion, as if unwilling to mingle its waters 
with those of the lake. It is a lovely stream, and in exquisite 
keeping with the ever-varying yet ever-beautiful scenery through 
which it flows, and of which it constitutes so very essential an ele- 
ment, and prominent a feature. 

It presents no falls of any great magnitude. Those of Gait* 
nish are chiefly interesting, from the grotesque and fantastic 
shapes into which the incessant action of the water has moulded 
the rock over which it urges its noisy and angry career. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The greatest part of the parish is 
composed of stratified rocks of the primary series. Mica slate 
and gneiss chiefly prevail. Both these rocks change into one an- 
other very gradually, so that it is difficult to decide where the one 
ends and the other begins. The mica slate receives felspar into 
its composition, and if the felspar increases so far as to equal or 
exceed the quartz and mica, gneiss is formed. Gneiss occupies 
the most northern parts of the district, and is most fully developed 
at Bendourain and LochtoUa. The bearing of the strata is fix)m 
north-east to south-west, almost parallel with the direction of the 
Grampians. 

Gneiss and mica slate, especially the latter, include subordin- 
ate strata of talc, chlorite, hornblende slate and clay slate, and lime- 
stone. The limestone, however, is not found in a very pure state, 
but much mixed with mica and quartz, so as to appear as mica 
slate, where the quartz is supplanted by lime. Limestone occurs 
near the manse on the banks of the Urchay, and a bed of it ex- 
tends westward for miles from the farm of Sockoch in Glenorchy, 
along the face of the range of hills that divides the parish from 
Kilchrenan and Inverary. 

Igneous rocks appear on a large scale at Black mount and 
near Lochawe. Granite and porphyry are the chief representa- 
tives of those rocks. Granite occupies a large space at Black* 
mount, Glenetive, and Glenc6. It is highly crystalline; its 
relation to porphyry is remarkable. The porphyry, being imper- 
fectly crystallized granite, is found in veins in the perfect granite, 
and projects also occasionally in fissures in the neighbouring mica 
slate and gneiss. The igneous rocks, granite, and porphyry have 
altered the nearest strata of schist; the mica is found melted, and 



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GLENURCHY AND INISHAIL. 91 

the position, moreover, of the strata is seen to be altered, and their 
dipping is irregular. This change of position of the stratified 
rocks has affected the formation of valleys in the district, more es- 
pecially those occupied by lakes, as Lochtolla and Lochavre, where 
deep rents or fissures have been caused by the disturbance of the 
strata* 

Greenstone and syenite seldomer occur in veins in mica-slate, 
but when they do, they are found partly parallel with the bearing 
of that rock, and partly intersecting it, running from north north- 
east to south south-west* Beautiful syenite is found in the farm 
of Auch on Benbuy, north of Tighandrom. Abundant veins of 
quartz intersect the stratified rocks, carrying often lead glance, 
and that in so abnndant quantity, as to constitute an object of min- 
ing speculation* The bearing of the veins is in general from north 
north*east to south south-west, one vein only with lead runs pa* 
rallel with the strata. This vein occurs near Arivean. Large 
quartz dikes are found parallel with the smaller veins. These 
project above the surface in high walls, and extend for many miles 
in unbroken continuous lines, across hills and valleys* In these 
dikes, the quartz is quite compact, and includes no other mineral, 
— in some instances, however, their continuation becomes of a 
softer nature, and carries lead ore* In cases of this kind, those 
veins are not seen rising above the neighbouring strata. Some 
quartz veins contain pyrites, which mineral is very abundant in the 
layers of quartz belonging to the formation of mica-schist There 
is no great variety of minerals in the district, besides those com- 
posing the rocks ; as quartz, mica^ felspar, talc, chlorite, horn- 
blende and limestone. The following are the extraneous minerals^ 
viz* lead glance, zinc, blende iron, copper pyrites, red iron oxyd, 
chramate of iron in small quantities in talc rock on the south side 
of Benlaoidh, in the farm of Sockoch, plumbago supplanting mica 
in mica-schist, and also found in talc schist, calc and felspar, and 
seldom heavy spar* Perfect crystals of these minerals are very 
rare* 

Zoology. — There are no animals of peculiar rarity in the parish* 
It abounds in deer, roe, and hare, and all kinds of game. The 
deer forest of Black Mount, the greater part of which lies in Glen- 
orchy, is supposed to contain from 2000 to 3000 red-deer. 
The fox is an inhabitant of the parish, despite of every effort made 
to destroy him, as is the pole-cat, martin and weasel, and wild- 
cat* 



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92 ARGYLESHIRE* 

Various kinds of fisb abound in all our lakes, especially in 
Lochawe, viz. salmon, different kinds of trout, some of which, in 
point of size, equal an ordinary-sized salmon, eel, char, now rather 
a scarce 6sh, perch and pike. The pike is only of recent impor* 
tation ; and it is greatly feared, that the character of the lake will 
suffer from the ravages of this active and. voracious fish. The 
small lakes in the braes teem with the fish, though they are, gene- 
rally speaking, of a small size. 

Botany. — At a period, comparatively recent, the greater part 
of our moors and valleys, and the sides of our mountains, midway 
to their summits, were clothed with trees of various kinds. The 
braes of the parish, a district of great extent, and the valleys of the 
Urchay, the Strae and the Lochay, were clothed with a dense and 
magnificent forest, partly of oak, birch, ash, and alder, but chiefly 
of pine. Some scanty remains of these once mighty forests are 
still to be seen in different localities in the parish, viz. Cranich, 
Doiridarroch, Glenfuath, Correhorri, and Coirre Vicar. They 
were leased out, about a century ago, to an Irish company, who 
felled an immense quantity of timber, which they floated down the 
Urchay, when in flood, to the head of Loch Awe, where it was 
hewn into planks, and then floated down Loch Awe in rafb to the 
pass of Brander ; whence it was carted down to the sea, and ship- 
ped at Bunawe. This, it is said, proved a bad speculation for 
all parties concerned. It sealed the fate of those noble forests 
which, for many years, were neglected, and which, consequently, 
hastened to premature decay. The stumps and roots of these 
once magnificent trees are now dug up by the mountain shepherd 
and forester, for the double purpose of supplying him with light 
and fuel. The quality of the timber was very superior. It was 
found, at the time of stripping Caolchu^n castle, that is, after the 
lapse of three centuries, perfectly fresh and free of moth and rot 
It was, in point of quality, equal to the best Baltic timber. The 
last remains of the pine- forest of Glenstrae was cut down thirty- 
five years ago, and employed in the erection of the parish church, 
the timber of which is exceedingly, and justly admired. Some of 
the trees were of an enormous size. Whilst the pine seems to have 
been the prevalent tree, the oak failed not to prefer bis claim to 
sovereignty. There are some oak trunks, of enormous size, to be 
seen in our rivers and mosses. There is one below Achallader, 
which, till of late, when the river, which it spanned, shifted its 
channel, served for a bridge ; and there are trunks of a prodigious 

4 



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GLENURCHY AND INISHAIL. 93 

size, to be seen in the Auchay below the farm of Stroomil chain. 
Large oaks have been recently dug up in the close vicinity of the 
house of New Inverawe ; and trunks of a very large size may, when 
the lake is low, be seen along the shores of Lochawe. Besides 
these valuable kinds of trees, our mountains and valleys were 
clothed, as they are partially still, with oak copice and birch, the 
aspen, the ash, and elm, and the ever-green holly. But these, ge-> 
nerally speaking, are rapidly disappearing ; and our mountains, and 
valleys, and straths have become comparatively naked and bare. 
The vale of the Urchay, though comparatively denuded of its an- 
cient garniture, is, notwithstanding, well-wooded, both with na- 
tural and plantation timber; and every possible attention is paid 
thereto by its noble proprietor. The same remark applies with 
equtfl justice and propriety to the woods of Inverawe, Rookhill, 
and Inishdrynich. 

II. — Civil History. 

The introduction of sheep constitutes an era of great importance 
in the history of this, as of almost every other Highland parish. It 
effected, everywhere in the Highlands, a complete revolution in the 
condition of the population. It snapped the tie which bound the 
occupant to the owner of the soil, and which began to be relaxed 
on the suppression of the Rebellion of 1745, which was attend- 
ed with the complete prostration and extinction of ihe hopes long 
indulged by the majority of the 'Highland chiefs of the elevation 
of the House of Stewart to the throne of their ancestors, and thus 
greatly lowered the vassal in the estimation of his chief. The an- 
ticipated result followed. Vast tracts of our straths and valleys, 
of our moors and mountains, exchanged stock and occupants. The 
deer and the goat gave place to the sheep ; and, in many instan- 
ces, the intelligent, well-educated, well-descended, and hospitable 
Highland tacksman, with his attached devoted cottars and depend- 
ents, gave way to the plodding industrious low country store farmer 
and shepherd. One or other of three alternatives was adopted by 
the unfortunate mountaineer, — that of removing to some of the 
manufacturing towns of the south,^-of emigrating to America, — or 
of contenting himself with a small patch of land, with the keep of 
a few cows, in some assigned locality in his native strath or valley. 

Emineni Men. — Glenorchy gave birth, at a comparatively re- 
cent period, to two highly gifted and distinguished individuals, 
brothers, riz. the late Rev. Dr John Smith of Campbelton, and 



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94 ARGYLESHIRE. 

Donald Smith, M. D. While both excelled in general scholar- 
ship, they were, at the same time, pre-eminent for the extent, 
intimacy, and correctness of their acquaintance with their own 
vernacular tongue, and its cognate branches. Dr John Smith 
was a distinguished and most successful preacher, as well as an 
able scholar and divine. He has placed his countrymen under 
a lasting debt of gratitude by the distinguished share he took 
in translating the Scriptures into Gaelic His translation of 
the Prophecy of Isaiah will be held in admiration, as long as 
the language into which he rendered it endures, and as long as 
there is a Gaelic scholar found alive, who can appreciate its beau* 
ties. At the request of the Synod of Argyle, he published a re- 
vised and corrected version of the Psalms of David, which is de- 
servedly held in high estimation for the simplicity and purity of its 
language, and the easy, graceful, and harmonious flow of its versifi* 
cation. It is that which is in general use in the counties of Perth and 
Argyle. He published several professional works of great merit : 
also an Agricultural Survey of the county of Argyle, drawn up 
at the request, and for the information, of the Board of Agricul- 
ture, which proves him to have been a man of great and varied 
talent and information. He was born at Croft Brackly, and died 
at Campbelton in the year 1807. 

His brother was born at the same place in the year 1756, and 
died in Edinburgh in the year 1805.* 

On the 20th of March 1724, the parish gave birth to one who 
holds a pre-eminent place amongst the Highland bards of mo- 
dem times, Duncan M^Intyre, better known to his admiring 
countrymen by the distinctive appellation of Donacha ban nan 
dran, or fair^haired Duncan of the Lays, He was bom, on 
the farm of Druimliart, in the braes of the parish. His pa- 

* The following tribute to the character of this good man and eminent scholar, 
from the pen of the Convener of the Committee of the Highland Society, tii. Mr 
Henry Mackenzie, the author of the Man of Peeling, in intimating the death of Dr 
Smith to that distinguished body, will satislactorily show the high estimation in which 
he was held. *< It is with infinite concern the Committee has to inform the society of 
the death of its excellent ooac|jutor, Dr D. Smith who died, after a very short illness, 
on the very day— 22d May— when the last of his labours in its service, the concluding 
sheet of this appendix, issued from the press. The Committee has to sympathize with 
every lover of Celtic literature on the loss of a scholar and antiquarian, whose extent 
of knowledge, whose acuteness, and whose industry have seldom been equalled. Its 
acquaintance with him, on occasion of compiling this report, induces the Committee 
to add another praise, not less great, nor less honourable, though of less general coo- 
cern, in its severe regrets for the loss of those many virtues and estimable qualities 
(not less estimable for the simple and unassuming manners that accompanied them,) 
which Dr Smith posseraed as a man.'* 



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GI.ENURCHY AND INISHAIL. 95 

rents were in very humble circumstances. This fact, coupled 
with the great distance of their place of residence from the parish 
school, accounts for his utter ignorance of letters. He passed his 
early youth in agricultural and pastoral pursuits. Fowling and 
fishing, sports in which he excelled, challenged no inconsiderable 
portion of his time. It is clear, from his own writings, that he 
worked as a common farm-servant, and, according to his own ac- 
count, he excelled in this capacity. He bore arms in the year 
1745 in the Ai^le Militia. He was ardently attached to the cause 
and fortunes of the chivalrous and unfortunate Prince Charles 
Edward,— and a staunch supporter of the principle of legitimacy. 
He was present and fought at the battle of Falkirk, of which he has 
given a graphic and somewhat humorous account, and in which 
he, like some other sons of song, left his sword and shield behind 
him. His poem on occasion of this battle is said to have been his 
first essay at poetry. On the suppression of the Rebellion, and 
consequent reduction of the corps in which he served, he returned 
to his native parish, and resumed the more congenial pursuits of 
the arts of peace. At that time, as now, a wide range of country, 
including a considerable part of Glenurchy, and of Glenurchy in 
the parish of KtUin, were under deer. Our poet became one of 
the sub-foresters. While thus employed, he produced the no- 
blest fruits of his genius, — his immortal songs of Beindourain, 
Coi'recheathaich, and Mairi bhan og. He afterwards served in the 
Breadalbane Fencibles from the year 1793 to the period of its re- 
duction in the year 1799. He attained to the great age of eighty- 
nine years. His remains lie interred, without any memorial, in 
the Canongate church-yard. He died in Edinburgh in the year 
1812. 

Land'Ovmers. — The Marquis of Breadalbane is sole proprietor 
of the parish of Glenurchy. The parish of Inishail is divided 
among six proprietors, viz. the Duke of Argyle ; Campbell of Mon^ 
zie, as proprietor of Inverawe ; Campbell of Lochnell ; Campbell 
of Rockhill ; Campbell of New Inverawe ; and Mac Alister of In- 
chdrynich. 

Parochial Registers. — There are two registers kept in the parish, 
one in each division, in which the births and marriages, the distri- 
bution of the poor's fund, and cases of discipline are recorded. The 
oldest is a fragment of the register of baptisms, which has been em- 
bodied in that which constitutes the first volume of the Glenurchy 
register. The earliest entry is dated 1753. On the admission of 



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96 ARGYLESHIRE. 

Dr M^Intyre in the year 1 765, .a suitable volume was provided, in 
which he recorded every parochial event and occurrence which be' 
deemed of any importance. The volume, however, has not been 
kept in the best preservation, nor does it furnish a very correct re- 
cord of baptisms and marriages. It is, notwithstanding, from the 
circumstance already stated, an interesting volume. The recofd 
of Inishail parish dates from the settlement of Dr M^Intyre. 

The kirk-session of Muckairn were, from time immemorial^ till 
of late, in the habit of exercising a pastoral superintendence over 
a district of the parish of Inishail, in the neighbourhood of that 
church and parish, and to which it was annexed quoad sacrc^ dur- 
ing the time of the Commonwealth. All the births, and marriages, 
and cases of discipline, that occurred in that district were insert^ 
ed in the register of Muckairn, as they are still, and its poor were 
admitted to a participation in the funds at the regular distribution, 
on the same footing with the poor of the parish. 

Antiquities. — Besides the castles already described, viz. Caol- 
churn and TraocheiUlein, there are several others in the parish. 
Achallader Castle is situate in the braes of the parish of Glen- 
urchy, and was built either by Sir Colin Campbell of the Castles, 
as he is designated, and Brst Laird of Glenurchy'of that name* or 
by his son, Black Sir Duncan of the Cowl. Sir Colin is said to 
have built no fewer than seven castles, viz. Taymouth, Pinlarig, 
Edinample, and Lochdoehard, in the county of Perth, and Caol- 
churn, Benculdine, and Achallader, in the county of Argyie. 

The exact period of its erection is not known. Its object is 
obvious, — that of preventing the raids and forays of the Lochaber 
clans. It served at the same time as a hunting-lodge, when the 
Noble owner chose to enjoy the pleasures of the chase in the ad- 
jacent forests of Bendourain, Corichbaa, and GlenceiUein. On 
the slope of a hill in the neighbourhood, several cairns, now partly 
overgrown with heath and moss, indicate the spot where a bloody 
conflict was fought, of which some tradition still survives. 

On a height overhanging the water of Teatle, on the farm of 
Duchoille, may be seen the ruins of an old fort or castle. Tra- 
dition does not indicate either the object or period of its erec- 
tion. It was built of dry stone, and resembles those old ruins 
so frequent in the Western Isles, which are called Danish 
forts; Another, apparently of the same description, stood on 
the farm of Barchasttallain, a little to the westward of the inn 
of Dalmally. A different origin, however, has been ascribed it. 



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GLENURCHY AND INTSHAIL. 97 

No mean antiquary, the late Dr Donald Smith, claimed for this 
ruin a very remote antiquity. He considered it one of the resi*- 
dences or castles of the Fingalians. The tradition of the country 
agrees in ascribing the same antiquity to it. On the farm of 
Castles, stood another of these buildings, — to which circum- 
stance the name of the farm may be, with the most absolute cer- 
tainty, attributed. Not a vestige of it now remains. There 
are other localities in the parish which are called duns, on which 
it is alleged forts or castles stood, of old. One of these, Dun^ 
athadii stood on a height, commanding one of the best views of 
Loch Awe and Glenorchy, about two miles west of the inn of 
Dalmally, and where the traveller, journeying to Inverary, obtains 
the first view of that noble sheet of water. There are two places 
pointed out in Stronmilchain, where McGregor of Glenstrae had 
his residence. One of them stood on the slope of the hill above 
Tullich ; the other, which was built of wattles, and said to have 
been surrounded by a moat, and accessible only by a draw-bridge, 
was situate close to the White House in Stronmilchain. The 
only other ruin of this kind in the parish, of which we shall take 
notice, is one situate in an island in the Loch of Balimore, parish 
of Inishail. It was the refuge and sanctuary, in times of danger, 
of the proprietor, Baron M^Corquindale. It was of very paltry 
dimensions. 

There are neither crosses nor obelisks in either parish, with the 
exception of a large stone standing in a moss close by the Lorn 
Furnace Manager's house. The only religious house, so far 
as has been ascertained, that existed in former times in the pa* 
rish, was the nunnery of Inishail, the ruins of which are still dis- 
tinctly visible. The former Report says in reference to it, ** there 
is little on record, and tradition conveys but little information con- 
cemmg this house." It was a house of nuns, memorable for the 
sanctity of their lives and the purity of their manners. At the 
Reformation, when the innocent were involved equally with the 
guilty in the sufferings of the times, this house was suppressed 
and the temporalities granted ,to Hay, Abbot of Inchaffray, who^ 
abjuring his former tenets, embraced the cause of the Reformat' 
tioo. Separated from the mainland by a very narrow channel, a 
little to the eastward of the house of Rockhill, and forming part 
of that farm, lies asmall but well-wooded island, called the Priest's 
Isle, it is beautifully wooded, and in the centre embowered ii 
trees, and, surrounded by a dry stone wall of considerable thicks 

ARGYLE. O 

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9S AR0YLB8H1RE. 

ness, stand the remains of the priest's humble dwelling. It was a 
thatched house and built with dry stone. It is said to have been 
afterwards occupied for some time by the proprietor. It is a 
sweet secluded and romantic spot, 6t place for the exercise of 
meditation and prayer. 

A green spot near the top of Creaggan Chaorach, is pointed out 
as a place where once stood a chapel or oratory. No remains of 
it are to be seen. Tradition alleges, that a bold attempt was 
once made to throw a bridge across Lochawe, a little to the north 
of Cladich. On the south side of the lake, on the farm of Baran- 
dryan, huge blocks of stone may, fn a clear and calm day, be traced 
into the lake to a considerable distance, placed, it is said, at regu- 
lar distances. These stones and cairns, the foundation on which the 
intended bridge was to have rested, constitute the sole remains and 
monument of this formidable undertaking. These remains are 
called the Druid's bridge. 

A cairn of stones was opened, some years ago, on the farm of 
Stranmilchan, in which was found a stone coffin containing an urn. 

Modern Buildings, — The modern buildings in the parish of 
Glenurcby are the church and manse, the miln and kiln ; and in 
Inishail parish, the family mansions of Rockhill, Inishdrynieb, 
and New Inverawe. 

III. — Population. 

The census taken by Dr Webster in 1755, and by Dr M*Io- 
tyre forty years later, differ exceedingly little, if the former, like- 
the latter, excluded the district of Ichrachan from his census, there 
is only a difference of 60 between them. 

A great and rapid decrease has, however, taken place sinee. 
This decrease is mainly attributable to the introduction of sbeep^ 
and the absorption of small into large tenements. The abori- 
ginal population of the parish of Glenurchy (not of Inishail) 
has been nearly supplanted by adventurers from tlie neighbouring 
district of Breadalbane, who now occupy the far largest share of 
the parish. There are a few, and only a few shoots, from the 
fttetns that supplied the ancient population. Some clans, who 
were rather numerous and powerful, have disappeared altoge- 
ther ; others, viz. the Downies, M'Nabs, M'Nicols, and Fletchers, 
have nearly ceased to exist. The McGregors, at one time lords of 
the soil, have totally disappeared ; not one of the name is to be 
found among the population. The MMntyres, at one time ex- 
tremely numerous, are likewise greatly reduced. 



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GLBNU»CHY AND INtSHAIL. 99 

Gaelic is almost universally spoken ; the English is uftquestioo-^ 
ably gaining ground. 

The people are deeide.lly cleanly in their habits. Their cot* 
tages, although stiperior to those occupied by their forefathers, 
certainly are not, in most instances, favourable to habits of clean- 
liness. 

They are a people of a superior intellectual cast, — acute, 
shrewd, and intelligent They may also be considered a moral 
people. 

IV. — Industry. 
> It is believed that very few acres, in the parish, indeed, could 
be reclaimed with a profitable application of capital. 

Litfe-Siock. — Black-faced are the only sheep reared by our 
graxiers. A few Cheviots, Leicesters, and, in one instance, a smalt 
parcel of South Downs, may be seen in the policies of some of our 
proprietors. Every attention is paid to the cultivation or im* 
provement of sheep stock. The graziers are an intelligent class 
of men, and grudge no outlay in improving their stocks. 

The Argyleshire is the most common breed of cattle. There 
is only one fold of Ayrshire cows in the parish, although a few of 
tbem are to be seen in every direction. Highland cattle are found 
to pay better. Young cattle pay better than butter and cheese. 

The river Urcbay, which, by overflowing its banks when in 
flood, was wont to do a great deal of damage, is in course of being 
embanked for a space of two miles at least. This embankment, 
which is nearly finished, has done a great deal of good. The 
only place where irrigation is resorted to, is at Bunawe, and by the 
Lorn Furnace Company. This is not, in any proper sense of the 
lerm, an agricultural country ; and it is found that capital thus laid 
out gives but a poor return. The bed of the river Awe, where it 
flows out from the lake, was considerably lowered, and an im- 
mense mass of stones, the accumulation of centuries, was removed^ 
allowing the water to escape with greater rapidity. This drainage 
bat done a great deal of good in different places along both sides 
of the lake, but more especially to the low grounds along the banks 
of the Urcbay. The Urchay is in the course of being embanked 
almost exclusively at the Expense of the Noble proprietor, the te- 
nants, by whom it is executed, being allowed a certain rate of 
wages, when thus employed. 

Leases, for some years back, have seldom exceeded nine years' 
duration^ The superior class of tenants aregeneraily comforta- 



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100 ARGYLESHIRB. 

bly lodged, their dwellings being, for the most part, built with 
stone and lime, and slated. Their offices, generally speaking, 
are of an infericf descriptioja, being for the most part built with 
dry stone, and thatched either with straw, fern, or rushes. There 
is a deficiency of enclosures. A great deal, however, in this way 
has been done of late throughout the parish, particular counte* 
nance being given to this species of improvement by the Noble 
proprietor of Glenurchy. 

Several important improvements have taken place in the parish 
since the former Statistical Report was drawn up. It was subsequent 
to that period, that the present church, manse, and schoolhouse, 
mill and kiln, were erected. Since then, the inn of Dalmally has 
been considerably enlarged. A very comfortable and respectably- 
kept inn has been built at Cladicb, and another on the south side 
of the ferry of Portsonachan. The whole of these places of enter- 
tainment are provided with excellent accommodations, and kept, 
it is believed, in a manner highly satisfactory to the public Our 
high roads, of which there are several lines, are maintained in aa 
excellent state of repair. Facilities for travelling have greatly mul- 
tiplied. Conveyances of every description, from the seated cart to 
the gay and dashing barouche, and post-horses are kept at all our 
inns, more especially at Dalmally. 

FisJieries. — Salmon and trout are the only fishings. They 
yield about L.800 Sterling per annum. 

Produce* — 
Produce of grain of all kinds, probably L.2350 

potatoes and turnips, . 2000 

fisheries, river and lake, . 500 

Total, . L. 4650 

It is impossible to ascertain the return from cattle and sheep ; 

but it must be great 

Manufactures, — The only branch of manufacture in the parish 

is a pig-iron manu&ctory at Bunawe. It gives employment, at 

some seasons of the year, to near 600 hands. 

There is an agricultural Association in the parish of Glenurcbyf 

and confined to it exclusively. It is only of very recent origin, 

but its benefits are already felt 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

EcclesiasHeal State. — A better locality could not in aiiy respect 

have been chosen for the parish church of Glenurchy, than the 

spot on which it stands. It is in the centre of the population. 

This church was built in the year 161 1, after a design by James 



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GLENUBCHY AND IMSIIAIL. 101 

Elliot of Edinburgh, and executed by Allan Johnstone, architect 
of Taymouth Castle* It is exceedingly admired, and constitutes 
one of the most interesting features in a landscape, not surpassed in 
beauty and loveliness by any in the Highlands. It is kept in excel- 
lent repair. The church of Inishail is a paltry building, erected 
about seventy years ago. It is, all things considered, set down in as 
suitable a place as could have been selected, yet it is, notwithstand- 
ing, both distant and difficult of access to a large body of the pari* 
shioners. Lochawe, which intervenes, constitutes a serious obstacle 
to their attendance on public worship. 

Several benefactions, though small in amount, have been 
made at several periods to the parish of Glenurchy, none to 
the parish of Inishail. The largest of these was a sum of 
L. 100, bequeathed by Colin Campbell of Carwhin, great grand* 
uncle to the present Marquis of Breadalbane. The benefit is 
limited to the widows of tacksmen in reduced circumstances. 
This bequest, together with a sum of equal amount, made up of 
several small bene&ctions, left by several individuals, whose names 
are recorded in the session records, is placed in the hands of the 
Marquis of Breadalbane, for which he gives a handsome interest. 
The number of sittings in both churches inclusive, amounts to 750, 
(Glenurchy church 500, Inishail 250.) All the sittings are free. 
The manse was built in 1805. It underwent some repairs, and 
had some additions made to it about twelve years ago. Glebe, 
extent 22 acres, value L. 22. There is, besides, summer keep 
allowed for eight cows, being a servitude of two cows on each of 
four farms in the neighbourhood. An equivalent in pasture is 
given in one locality, in consequence of a private arrangement en- 
tered into with the proprietor. This enhances the value of the 
glebe L. 1 more. To the incumbent the value of both may be 
equal to about L. 40 a year. 

The stipend is twelve chalders meal, and L. 26 Sterling yearly 
teind. The teinds are all exhausted. 

There is what was a Chapel of Ease, until the Assembly Chapel 
Act was passed, giving the Chapels of Ease the status of quoad sa^ 
era parishes. It is one of the two places of worship in the quoad 
taera parish of Strathfillan. This chapel is situated in the braes 
of the parish. Public worship is celebrated here every third Sab- 
bath, the public ministrations of the clergymen being confined on 
the other two to the more populous district of Strathfillan. The 
two churches are placed six miles from each other. This parish, 



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103 ARGYLE8H1RR. 

original a mission, was endowed by the good Lady Glenor* 
chy. The stipend is L. 60, including, it is beiie?ed, allowance 
for communion elements. Whilst the manse and manse of* 
(ices, and church of Strathfillan are upheld by the Society in Scoi^ 
land for Promoting Religious Knowledge, in wh«m the patronage 
is vested, the chm'ch at the bridge of Urcbay is upheld by the 
Marquis of Breadalbane, who has provided the minister with « 
good glebe and pasture for four or five milk eow^ and a horse and 
some sbeep. 

Education, — Number of schools, 6 ; parochial 3, endowed 6, op* 
held by Societies 2. Glenurchy school salary, 400 merks, Inis- 
hail, 600 merks, equally divided between the two schoolmasters. 
Bunawe school, salary L. 16, lately withdrawn* Sewing school, 
Glenurchy, 1^.8. Average amonnt of schooUfees in aU the sehools^ 
exclusive of sewing school, from L#10 to L.lt2^ 

There are few under fifty or sixty years of age in the parish who 
cannot read. There is not a Latin scholar in Glenurchy school, 
where some twenty years ago there used to be a goodly number. 
The Glemirchy school ranked very high for a long period of time, 
for the amount of its attendance, and the success wiih which it was 
taught. It was resorted to from all the surrounding districts, 
and could boast of scholars from the south, and even the West 
Indies. It sent forth scholars who rose to distinction in several 
professions, — for instance the Smiths, of whom mention has already 
been made, and the late General Sir Alexander Campbell of 
Achallader, some time Governor of Madras. 

Ldteratiire. — There is one parochial library in Glenurchy pa- 
rish, containing from 200 to 300 volumes. There is a small col- 
lection of books attached to the Sabbath school, presented by the 
Marchioness of Breadalbane, who has been pleased to take it 
under her patronage. 

Poor and Parochial Fundi. — The average number who receive pa- 
rochial aid is 32; average annual allowance, about L.2, 10s. Annual 
donation by the Marquis of Breadalbane, L.40 ; value of clothes 
distributed by the Marchioness of Breadalbane, L. 7 ; gratuities 
given by the Marqtn's of Breadalbane, at an axerage for three last 
years paid through kirk-session, L.d ; paid through other channels, 
L.6; church collections last three years' average, L. 13; proclama- 
tion and mortcloth dues, average for the same period, L.I, 8s.} 
total, L.75, 8s. Nine individuals are in the receipt of pensions 
from the Marquis of Breadalbane, who would require, if not thus 



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STRACHUB AND STRALACHLAN. 103 

provided for, parochial relief, the average rate of pensions being 
L.4» 10s. each ; sum total, L.1LS 8s^ 

In the parish of Inishail the funds are wholly dependent on 
church collections and proclamation dues. The number of pau- 
perst average 8; total amount expended on them, L.7. 

Fair»* — There are two, St Andrews and St Connan. The 
former holds on the fourth Tuesday of November ; the latter on 
the third Wednesday of March. 

Inns. — There are inns, and two small dram-houses in the pa- 
rish. 

Fuel — Turf or peat is almost universally used* 

AuguU 1843. 



UNITED PARISHES OF 

STRACHUR AND STRALACHLAN. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUNOON, SYNOD OF AR6YLE. 

THE REV. JAMES FERGUSON, MINISTER. 



I.^-TOPOGRAPHY AND NaTURAL HiSTORY. 

Prior to the year 16M, the parishes, now named as above, 
were annexed to the neighbouring parishes of Lochgoilhead and 
Invercbaolain, — Strachur to the former and Stralachlan to thelattec* 

Name* — The ancient name of Strachur was Kilmaglass^ sig- 
nifying the burying ground of Maglass, {Macffhlaisy) or Grey's 
son, who was the saint honoured with the religious devotions of 
the inha|i)itants of this locality. Stralachlan means the Strath of 
Lachlan, and derived its name, as is said, from that of tlie princi- 
pal heritor of that district, — Maclachlan, or Lachlan's son. The 
remains of a castle of some antiquity still exist. Stralachlan waa 
formerly called Kilmorrie, from Kil and Muire, the Virgin Mary. 

Extent^ jfc — The parish as such lies longitudinally from north- 
east and south-west Its length is 19 miles:, its breadth varies 
from 6 miles to about 3» Its boundaries on the east and north- 
east are the united parishes of Lochgoilhead and Kilmun ; on the 
south, those of Kilmun and Dunoon,, and the parish of Kilmodan ; 
on the west and north-west^ Loch fine. 



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104 ARGVLESHIRBV 

Topographical Appearances. — The general aspect of ibe parish 
is highly, interesting. The hills are numerous, faatastieally m^et* 
ing and intersecting each other. The elevation of some of them 
above the level of the sea may be from 2000 to dOOO feet. With 
the exception of the Strath of Strachur and that of Stralacfalao, 
the arable land is inconsiderable ; the fotmer is the more exten- 
sive, and under pretty fair tillage* The Strachur hills are con* 
sidered first-rate pasture for sheep and black-cattle, and present 
a soft and rich verdure. 

Hydrography. — Lochfine bounds the parish on the north and 
ivest, embracing its whole length of nineteen miles, from north<*east 
to south-west Its depth is unequal, varying from thirty to eighty 
fathoms. 

Locheck is the only lake in the parish. It lies to the south by 
east from Lochfine, is six miles in length, and half a-mile in 
breadth ; it extends three miles within the limits of the parish. 
Its depth is very considerable, in some places equal to sixty and 
seventy fathoms. The river Hachaig, being the channel of com* 
munication between it and the Clyde at Kilmun, introduces into it 
some salmon and salmon-trout of good quality. The fresh water 
herring in it (an insipid kind of fish) are not found in any other 
lake on the .west coast, except in Loehlomond. The Cur is the 
only river deserving notice. It originates in the mountains bor- 
dering on Lochgoilhead, and extends miles in an irregular course. 
For a few miles, it flows with rapidity, in a south-western di- 
rection, until it arrives at the Strachur plains, when it flow^ 
smoothly on in a south by east direction. 

SdL — llie general character of the soils, is loamy, sandy, thin, 
and clayey. The Strachur Strath contains some hundred acres of 
good level land. It is supposed that some mines of coal and ore 
might be discovered, which would prove of great advantage to 
this district. 

Zoology. — The eagle pays occasional, visits, and some years ago 
one of that species carried off, killed, and devoured a child about 
three years old. 

Salmon and salmon-trout are found in Locheck, and some trout 
in the rivers. But the most important species, in an economical 
point of view, are the herrings found in Lochfine, generally ac- 
knowledged to be of superior quality. 

Botany. — The forests and plantations consist of oak, larclu 

a 



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8TRACHUR AND STiiALACHLAN. 106 

beecb, ashy hazel, alder, birch, 6r, elm, and mountain ash. Thb 

oak, fir, beech, ash, and hazel appear most congenial to the soil. 

II. — CiTiL History. 

Lond^owners. — The chief land-owners are, John Campbell, Esq. 
of Strachur ; and Robert M^Lachlan, Esq. of Stralachlan* 

Parochial Reffitten. — There are no parochial registers in exist* 
ence bearing date prior to the year 1758. Daring the succeeding 
twenty-eight years, they were not punctually attended to. Since 
then, however, they have been regularly kept 

Jntiquitiei. — Within the bounds of the parish, and towards that 
of Glendaruel, there is a stone remarkable for its locality, the emi* 
nence on which it is situated, commanding an extensive prospect. 
It is called Caillich-Vearor Vera, or the Old Wife of Thunder. 
Beir, being the Celtic word for thunder, and which, from cus« 
tom or convenience, was transformed to Vera or Vear. Marvel* 
lous properties were ascribed by the superstitious inhabitants to 
this thundering lady ; it was said that she could, with ease and incre- 
dible agility, transfer herself firom one hill to another, command ter- 
rific thunder and desolating deluges at pleasure; and hence the 
dreadful apprehensions of incurring her ire that generally prevailed. 

A hill in Stralaohlan, rising in a curious conical shape, is seen 
at some distance, towering above the neighbouring ones. It is 
called Siene Sluagh^ the residence of the fairy people. 

Mannon Homes* — Several of these have been erected since last 
Statistical Account was published, viz. Glenshellis, Ballimore, 
Glenbrantir, Strachurmore houses, all built and finished with stone 
and lime, with slate and the best of timber. A good mill has also 
been built with the same materials. Strachur Park is presently 
occupied by I^ord Murray, whose benevolence and exemplary coo- 
duct, and that of Lady Murray, exert a beneficial influence around 
them* Their temporary residence here is no ordinary acquisition 
to the parish. 

IIL— Population* 



Amoimt of population in 1801. 


1097 


1811, . 


1120 


1821, 


1204 


1831, 


1083 


1841, . 


1086 



Gaelic is the language generally spoken ; but almost the whole 
of the rising generation speak English. 

IV. — Industry. 
Affricukurcm — The cultivated Is^id amounts to from lOOO to 



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406 AttOTLESniRK. 

1500 acres imperhrl : eonstantty waste or pasture lands, which 
have never been in cuUivatioO) to about 36,000. There may be 
from 1600 to 2000 acres under wood of all descriptions. 

The black-faced sheep and Highland cattle are the commoo 
breeds,^ and to their improvement much attention has of late been 
paid by the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland, and 
by an Association of proprietors and formers connected with the 
Cowal district. 

There are several excellent farm-bnildings occupied by the laige 
tenants, such as pay from L»100 to L.dOOof rent; yet all of that 
class are not comfortably lodged; but such as* pay from 1*50 to 
Li 100 are suitably accommodated. The houses of the crofters 
and cottars are, in many cases, very indifferent. David Napier, 
Esq. of Glenshellis, some years ago, built a house and offices, 
and planted and enclosed, to the extent of L.4000 at^ least. 

Considerable improvements have been made by Patrick For- 
bes, Esq. of St Cathrine's, where there is a comfortable inn, and 
many other conveniences for travellers. 

There is limestone in the parish, which is quarried, prepared, 
and sold at the rate of Is. 2d. per boll. 

The only 6shing systematically carried on is that of herring. 

Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in 
the parish may be as follows ;— 

Grain of aU kindmppropriAted todomwtie'Qcotioiiiy, . 14.1788 

Potatoes, . . , . . B54 10 

Turnips, < . . . IM) 

Hay, both mcfldow and euHiTated* , 896 
Lands in pasture, rating the graiing of a full grown oi at L.2, and 
that of a ewe or full grown sheep at 4«. for the year ; young cattle 

at L«l, lOs. each fur the year — amounting in whole to • 4677 

Periodical felling and annual thinning of woods, &c. average about . 200 
Fisheries on Loch fine, rating each boat*8 success at U25 yearly, 

taking the average of three years, . . 1050 

Total yearly ralue of raw produce railed, L.91 U 10 

Navigation. — There is only one sloop belonging to Strachur. 
The vessels which occasionally come to Strachur Bay with boats, 
and to take away wool and potatoes, belong to other ports. The 
number of Bshing boats belonging to the parish may amount to 
about 42. 

V. — Parochial Econobit. 
Means of Communieatian. — The Glasgow steamers to Inverary 
convey passengers to and from the low country in a safe» cheap, and 
expeditious manner. The Government road to Ardentinny af- 
fords daily intercoursie^ through the Locbgoil steamer, with the 



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STRACHCB AND STRALACHLAN. 107 

towns upon the Clyde; and the coach establishment between St 
Cathrine's and Lochgoilbead aflfords the opportunity of comfort* 
able and speedy conveyance* 

Strachur Bay, although upon a small scale, affords good and 
safe anchorage to vessels when the wind is from the north-east 
and south-east. 

Ecclenasiical State. — The churches are situated as favourably 
as possible to the greater proportion of the population, the dis- 
tance between them being six miles, and from each extremity of 
the parish about the same. The church of Strachur was built in 
the year 1 789, and is in need of repair. It accommodates about 400 
sitters. The late Miss Janet Campbell of Strachur left a legacy 
of L.20 Sterling to the poor of the parish of Strachur, about four 
years ago. The manse was built in the year 1779, and repaired 
different times since that period. Number of families attending, 
107. Average amount of church collections during the year, 
L.12, 10s. 

The parish church in Stralachlan was built in the year 1792, 
and is undergoing repairs, which are not yet finished. 

The parish church accommodates about 150. The number of 
families attending church is 190. Average amount of church 
collections during the }ear, L.5, 10s. 6d. 

The sittings in both churches are all free. 

The extent of the glebe is about fifteen acres of very bad 
ground, and was never valued. The stipend is the minimum, and 
a small sum is paid by the Exchequer to advance it to L.150 
per annum. All the parishioners, with the exception of one Ra^ 
man Catholic family, belong to the Established Church, Divine 
service is generally well attended, and the communicants average 
about 260. 

Educatiofu — The number of schools in the parish is 3; paro^ 
cbial school, 1. The other two are side schools, and receive a 
part of the salary of the parochial one. The salary of the paro^ 
chial teacher is L.26, 10s., and the school. fees amount to L.14. 
The parochial teacher has the legal accommodation. - 

Number of schools in Stralachlan parish, three ; parochial 
schools, one. The other two are side schools, and are upheld 
by subscription. Salary of parochial teacher, L.10. School fees 
yearly, L.8. The teacher pays rent for bis house and croft. Ge* 
neral expense of education for each scholar yearly, 88. Tbera 
are three schools, and in these the children can all attend. 



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108 ARGYLESHIRB. 

Library. — There is one circulatiug library at Strachur, under 
the charge of the kirk-session. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — Paupers reoeifing parochial re* 
lief in Strachur, 14. Average sum allotted to each yearly* L.l» 
5s. Annual amount of church coUectionsi L.12, lOs., and L.10 
from the heritors of the parish. 

Number of poor receiving parochial aid in Stralachlan parish, 
5; average sum allotted to each yearly, L.1 ; annual amount of 
church collections, L.5, 10s. 6d. 

Fairs. — There are two held at Strachur, in the months of May 
and October, for selling and purchasing black-cattle, and they 
are attended with much advantage to the district. 

Inns. — Three inns are upheld in the parish ; two of them very 
comfortable. 

Jvly 1843. 



PARISH OF INVERCHAOLAIN. 

PRESBYTBRY of DUNOON, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. A M'TAVISH, MINISTER. 



I.— ToPOORAPHY AND NaTURAL H18TORY. 

Name. — Inverchaolain is the ancient and modern name of 
this parish ; it is derived from the GaeliC) and signiBes ike plain 
er lands JU for tillage on the small stream^ which is descriptive 
enough of the situation of the manse and the adjoining farm. 

SituaHoUf Boundaries^ ffc. — This parish is situated in the dis- 
trict of Cowall, the south-eastern division of the county of Argyle. 
It is bounded on the south-east by the parish of Dunoon ; on ihe 
north and north-west, by the parishes of Kilmun and Olendaruel ; 
west and south-west, by Loch Riddan and the east Kyles of Bute. 
Its greatest length is about 15 miles, and greatest breadth 8 miles, 
including Loch Striven, which intersects it. 

Topographical Appearance and Clvnate. — The general surface 
of the parbh is hilly and rugged — a range of hills running along 
both sides of Loch Striven, but toward the south-eastern part, it 
becomes more level. 

The climate is, in general, very mild though moist. There is 



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1NVERCHAOLAIN. 109 

no disease that may be said to be peculiarly prevalent in the parbh. 
Typhus and other epidemics occur occasionally, brought from the 
low country, but are of short continuance. The snow rarely ever 
lies more than two days, on the low grounds near the shore* Wes* 
terly winds prevail, which bring frequent showers upon us from 
the Atlantic, but our heaviest rains are with southerly winds; and 
when the lofty hills of Arran are enveloped with clouds, we are sure 
to have a fall The people are generally healthy, and many live to a 
great age. The soil nearest the sea is generally light and sandy, 
with a mixture of moss in some parts, but there is a considerable 
variety, from its great extent : a large portion of it is of a very ted 
colour. 

Hydrography. — The parish is intersected by an arm of the sea 
called Loch Striven, signifying the loch of notes or pomU. It 
is upwards of nine miles long, and about two miles broad at the 
mouth, getting narrower as it enters the country. It varies in 
depth from 20 to 55 fitthoms in the centre, generally shelving 
gradually from the shore without any rocks or shoals ; in one or two 
parts the depth is so sudden that you might step on the land from 
a line of battle ship. There are several beautiful sandy beaches 
for bathing. The water is clear and very salt^ except when there 
are great floods of rain swelling the mountain torrents, which dis- 
charge themselves into it The luminous phosphoric appearance 
of the water at night is very marked, particularly during the autum* 
nal months, sometimes giving the loch the appearance of being 
on fire ; the waters of the East Kyles of Bute and Loch Riddan 
are much of the same character. There is in all, a sea shore of 
between thirty and forty miles. 

There is little current in Loch Striven, except what is occasion- 
ed by the rise and fall of the tide The tide is much more rapid 
in the Kyles of Bute, particulariy about the burnt islands near 
the entrance to Loch Riddan, and the flood tide coming from 
the firth of Clyde, (between Bogany point in Bute and To- 
ward Point in Cowall,) meets the flood tide coming in the West 
Kyles at a point about half-a mile west of South hall, and from 
this, point the ebb tide returns in the same way as it flowed. 
There is no stream in the parish deserving, the name of a river. 
It abounds in springs of the finest water. The only ones deserv<4 
ing of notice are two diat discharge themselves from the opposite 
sides of a large hill about the same level, with a rushing noise, net 
ver seeming to vary. in. quantity, and not^ freezing. There are 



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no ARGYLKSHIRE. 

many beautiful small cascades, but the only one worthy of re« 
mark is on a farm belonging to Archibald Campbell, Esq. of 
Glendaniel, where the water pours over a perpendicular rock with 
such force (when there is a flood in the stream) that it forms a 
beautiful arch, and the only way of getting from one side to the 
other of the stream when so flooded, is by going under the arch. 

Geology. — It principally consists of mica-slate and many hard 
rocks lying in beds. Several whinstone dikes appear in different 
parts of it, which can be traced in a direct line for a great distance, 
far beyond the bounds of the parish. Limestone has been wrought, 
but it is of a hard quality, and the purchasing of Irish lime in shell 
has been found less expensive. 

Zoology. — It is not remarkable for any rare animals. The laige 
greyhound fox has become very numerous of late years, and 
most destructive to the sheep stock. Ottars are frequently found 
along the sea-coast; badgers are now seldom seen; roe-deer are 
plentiful ; hares very numerous and of a large size, but the white 
or alpine hare are now seldom met with ; white and browawMvels 
are common ; wild-cats were numerous some years ago, but are 
not so now. Rats, mice, and moles abound ; but there are 
not many adders or lizards seen. All the common birds na* 
tural to this part of the country are found here ; crows are so 
much encouraged, that tliey are prodigiously destructive, parU* 
eularly to the newly sown flelds and iu the harvest time ; grouse 
are to be found on our mountains, and a few partridges iu our flelds ; 
the blackcock has become most plentiful of late years, and phea- 
sants are to be seen in all quarters since their introduction into 
the country by the late Kirkman Finlay, Esq. of Castletoward ; 
ptarmigan used to be found on two of our highest mountains, but 
were said to have been extirpated some years ago by the game* 
keeper of a neighbouring proprietor ; wood<*cocks, snipe, land 
and water*rails, green, golden, and grey plover are common io 
their season; herons are very numerous. In severe weather we 
are visited by wild geese, but they do not breed in the pariah ; 
swans are seen passing over us going south ; Iand*baniac)e some* 
times alight in our fields in the harvest season ; sea-ibwls of every 
kind are numerous on our waters, and a variety of divers, parti* 
eularly in the winter ; also, widgeon, teal, and other ducks. 

Loch Striven and the Kyles of Bute abound in fish of every 
kind common on the west coast. The most abundant are, the 
whiting, haddock, cod, ling, flounder, skate, mackerel, seath, or 



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INVfiRCHAOLAlN. Ill 

eoaUfisb, rock-fisb or sea-perch, salfnon, and Irout Sometimes 
there are great takes of herring, which are a blessing to the peo« 
pie. The most of them keep nets to embrace every favourable 
opportunity of catching them. The conger eel are numerous and 
of a large size, and though they are very troublesome to the 
herring-fishers, (from running along their nets and picking out 
the herrings,) yet they are fished in great quantities for the 
Liverpool market Shoals of grey mullet occasionally come into 
our loch, but few of them are caught ; sole are not abundant ; 
turbot and hallibut have sometimes been taken ; also that much 
prized fish, the John Doree ; the ink or cuttle-fish are to be found ; 
the ketfaick or ground-shark are often thrown on our shores by 
the storms ; the Portbeagle shark and dog-fish are common ; the 
porpoise or pelloch and whale follow the herrings ; seals are fre* 
quently seen ; lobsters, crabs, and shrimps are also prevalent ; 
there are a variety of shelUfish on our shores; oysters and muscles 
were at one time very plentiful, but are now scarce ; par and sal- 
mon-trout were abundant in our streams, but are yearly becoming 
less numerous. 

II.— Civil History. 

Heritors. — There are seven in the parish : John Campbell, 
Esq. of Southhall ; Alexander Lamont, Esq. of Knockdow ; Alex- 
ander Finlay, Esq. of Castletoward ; Sir John Fife of Gortan ; 
John Campbell, Esq. of Dunoon ; Archibald Campbell, Esq. of 
Glendaruel ; and Mrs Harkness of Garrachoren. 

ResidaU Heritors. — These are, John Campbell, Esq. of South- 
hall, whose place is beautifully situated neartheentrance to the East 
Kyles of Bute, commanding a prospect of the Firth of Clyde, as 
described in the former Statistical Account of this parish ; Alex- 
ander Lamont, Esq. of Knockdow ; and Sir John Fife, a gentleman 
from the north of JSngland, who has purchased property on both 
sides of Loch Striven within the last twenty years. He has built a 
most commodious cottage, delightfully situated on the east side of 
the loch, commanding a ^iew of Rothsay Bay, with Ayrshire and 
Arran in the distance^ He has planted nearly 100 acres about 
his place, and done much to ornament and improve the low 
grounds and hill-pasture. Also, Mrs Harkness, heretrix of Gar- 
rachoren. 

Antiquities. — The only thing particularly worthy of being noticed 
under this head, is the ruins of the old Castle of Ellandheirrig, on A 
Miall island in Loch Riddan, about a hundred yards from the main 



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11*2 AKOYLB8HIRR* 

land, fortified by Archibald Earl of Argyle, when be nuuk bi» 
unfortunate descent upon Scotland in 1685. The castle was taken 
by his enemies and blown up ; but a small portion of it is still 
standing, and is seen from the steam-boats passing through the 
Kyles of Bute. This island and adjacent property at that time 
belonged to the ancient family of Ellandheirrig, who posses* 
sed a large estate in this part of the country, and were celebrated 
as warriors in Gaelic song. They are now extinct. The island 
DOW belongs to John Campbell, Esq. of Southhall, whose grand- 
oncle purchased it, along with what then remained of the property, 
from Sir Neil Campbell of Ellandhetrrig, the last of that house. 
There are tumuli in different parts of the parish. Several of them 
hare been opened. In some, stone coffins containing human bones 
were found ; in others, earthen urns with black ashes. Stone cof- 
fins containing human bones have been turned up in different parts 
of the parish. In digging the foundation of the present church in 
1612, several dozens of human skulls were found, and near diem 
a few bones of a very large size. There is a large stone ten 
or twelve feet high in the middle of a field at the head of Loch 
Striven, but nothing is known about it 

III. — Population, &c. 
The return made to Dr Webster in 1755 was d44 

^ho^S^ Families. Males. Females. TotaL 

According to census in 161 1» 103 105 300 S88 - 588 

1821, 106 115 318 333 • 65t 

1831, 105 100 801 895-506 

Taken by myself in 1835» • * • 50S 

Census taken in 1841, 583. Extra people working at Oak woods 

at the time, 1 16, total, - - 699 

The register of births commencefi in 1737, but is in an imper- 
fect state; of marriages from 1761, equally imperfect; but accu* 
rately kept of both from 1771. There is no register of deaths; 
average of births, 16; of marriages, 5. Gaelic is the language 
of the natives, both old and young, but all of them can read and 
apeak English. English is gaining ground, and all are anxious 
to. acquire it. 

IV.— Industby. 

Agriculture. — The parish may be considered as entirely pastoral 
and agricultural. It contains upwards of 40,000 iicrea, of which 
IdOO are arable, 1500 low pasture, 440 of thriving plantation of 
various ages, consisting principally of larch, Scotch spruce, and 



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INVKRCHAOLAIN. ^3 

silver fir, oak^ ash, and birch. There are]|1000 acres of oa k cop- 
pice woods generally cut every twenty or twenty-one years^^ielding 
a handsome return to the proprietors. All the rest is hill pasture. 
The only remarkable trees are two hollies or great size, the largest 
near the mansion house of Southhall, the other|| near the^ farm- 
steading of Inverchaolain. 

Little advancement in agriculturei has* been made in the parish 
on the whole, and few improvements have taken place upon the lands 
of the old proprietors, except in the immediate neighbourhood of 
their own residences. There^is no regular rotation of cropping ; 
two or three, and even four*white crops are taken,UilPsometimes 
it hardly returns the seed sown, notwithstanding the^ forcing it 
with sea-weed ; thus the natural grasses are destroyed, and the land 
becomes covered with weeds, consequently many of the hill sides, 
once cultivated and left out in this state, have become overrun with 
heath* The lands in the immediate neighbourhood of the manse 
do not yield, by a third or even a half, what they are said to have 
done fifty years ago. There are no proper ring fences, not even 
the old ones kept up which separate the hill pasture from the home 
farm or arable land. The parish principally consists of sheep farms, 
containing a portion of arable land, and generally let for a period 
of nine years, (many of them rack-rented,) which is considered 
too short. However, Mr Finlay has a few arable farms in the pa- 
rish highly cultivated, drained, and subdivided, though the lands 
are principally very sandy and light, a great portion of them be- 
ing reclaimed from barren heath, by the late Archibald Younger, 
Esq. a former proprietor. The leases on these lands extend to 
nineteen years, and the farmers have comfortable houses. 

Live-StoeL — There are about 10,800 sheep in the parish, all 
of them of the black-faced breed, with the exception of nearly 100 
Leicester, fed on the low grounds by two of the proprietors, and 
a few pets. About 150 slack ewes are wintered on the low pas- 
ture, and sold, with their lambs, to the butchers in summer. There 
are some very good sheep-stocks, and well attended to in every 
respeet. The hill pasture is generally good, and surface-draining 
in some instances practised : but, upon the whole, we do not consi- 
der the sheep-stocks improving of late years. There are upwards 
of 250 cows, 7 bulls, and 240 young cattle fed during the summer 
months, and nearly 200 calves reared annually. They are princi- 

AROTLE^ H 



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114 ARGTLESHIRK. 

j^ally of the Argyleshire breed. There are about 40 of the Ayr- 
shire short-horned breed kept for their milk. There are 71 
horses in the parish, principally a cross between the Highland and 
Clydesdale. The sheep are readily sold to the Greenock, Glas- 
gow, Rothesay, or Dunoon fleshers at fair prices. Young cattle 
are purchased by drovers for the different low country markets. 
V. — Parochial EcoNOBiir* 

There is no village in the parish. 

Means of Communication. — There are about thirty miles of made 
road. The scenery is bold and romantic: from the mansioii- 
house of Southhall to the head of Loch Riddan it is truly beauti- 
ful. It is considered to surpass the celebrated entrance to the 
Trossachs at the foot of Loch Caterine* The road from South 
Hall to Glendaruel is kept in the best order. I cannot say much 
in commendation of the way in woich the other roads in the pa- 
rish are attended to. They are chiefly made and repaired by 
statute labour. 

Ecclesiastical State. — There are two places of worship, the pa- 
rish church and a chapel built by subscription, and a contribution 
from the General Assembly's Church Extension fund. The lat- 
ter was opened for public worship by the parish minister on the 
23d of August 1 840. The parish church is situated on a rising 
ground immediately behind the manse, surrounded by a beautiful 
burying-ground. It was built in 1812, and might be made very 
comfortable if it was strapped and lathed and properly attended 
to, and is the third church on the same site. The 6rst was built 
by a man who said that he dreamt that he would find a treasure 
concealed in a certain spot in the parish, (which is still pointed 
out,) and was commanded to build a church with it on ** Croch* 
dan in airy," but his funds became exhausted, and a part of it 
remained unslated for many years. There was another church 
built close to this old one in 1745, which was pulled down when 
the late Mr Campbell of Southhall, the principal heritor, iaaist- 
ed on building the present church, to the great annoyance of some 
of the other heritors. The old Roman Catholic place of worship 
and burying*ground were situated on an eminence about 2(M) yanb 
above the present one, on the side of tlie hill. The chapel is 
most comfortable in every way, and situated on the east Kyles 
of Bute. The manse was built in 1807 by order of the Court 
of Session, but the then incumbent accepted of one inferior to 



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INVBRCHAOLAIN. HS 

the plan given by Mr Gillespie Graham, the architect appoint- 
ed by the Court of Session, and was built by contract given to the 
lowest bidder, who absconded before it was finished; the minister 
was in consequence put to a considerable expense iu endeavour** 
ing to make it -somewhat comfortable* It got a sort of repair 
in 1832; but the present incumbent has been necessitated to ex- 
pend a considerable sum of money upon it for the comfort and 
health of his family since that time. The office houses are pretty 
good, the principal line of them being roofed, and several of them 
entirely built at the minister's own expense. 

The glebe consists of about four acres of arable, and three 
roods of pasture and unimprovable ground. Several encroach- 
ments are said to have been made upon it during vacancies ; be- 
sides, there is a servitude of eight cows upon the surrounding 
church lands of Strondharaig ; but, from the overstocked and 
wretched system of cropping the land, the servitude is of little va^ 
lue. There is no doubt but the minister was entitled to followers 
to those C4>W8, according to the original universal custom of the 
country ; and the minister was always, even of late years, in the 
habit of keeping one or two calves, till, about three years ago, they 
were driven off by the present proprietor of the lands. 

The stipend, decreeted for in 1775, is 100 bolk 3 firlote of oat- 
meal, and 158 Scots money of vicarage. What this is short of 
L.150 Sterling, is made up by Her Majesty's Exchequer. There are 
lands in the parish rented at upwards of L.200 per annum unvalued. 
There is little vacant teind. 

The valued rent of the parish is L.204, 8s. 5d. Sterling: the 
real rental is L.34i00, 15s. Sterling, exclusive of the lands in pos- 
session of the resident heritors, and the returns for woods and 
plantations. 

Education. — There are only two schools in the parish. The 
schoolmaster's accommodation is miserable, and the schoolmaster, 
who died a few months ago, was in poverty, although a most meri- 
torious man. 

There was a good school-house built a few years ago for the 
side school, which is inefficiently tAught, the teacher being old« 
I had a small school taught at the head of Loch Striven for some 
seasons, which did much good. There are two Sunday schools 
kept in the parish that are superintended by the minister. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 



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116 



ARGYLESHIKE. 



OD the roll is from twelve to thirteen, besides others who receive 
occasional assistance. There still remains a capital of L. 60 
Sterling, saved many years ago from the collections at the church 
door; a legacy of L.100 Sterling, received two years ago; col' 
lections at church door, about L. 20 per annum. The heritors 
have been prevailed upon, of late years, to assess themselves 
from L. 12, 17s. to L. 13^ 178. per annum; and from these 
sources, and receiving occasional small donations and legacies, 
we have hitherto supplied the necessities of the poor, giving 
them from L.2 to L.8 per year, according to their necessities, 
so that there is not a beggar in the parish. The people in general 
are very kind to the poor, and there has not been, for a great many 
years, any who went beyond the bounds of the parish to seek 
alms, except two who were weak in the mind, and could not be 
prevented from wandering. There is generally a great aversion 
on the part of the poor to seek parochial aid. 

Friendly Society. — There is a Friendly Society whicb has exist- 
ed for upwards of half a century, and does much good. 

FairSi jfc.-^ There is but one fair held in the parish. There are 
four public-houses. 

Fuel — Coals are principally used, and cost from ISs. to 158. per 
ton, conveyed by water ; peats are also used, but it i» difficult to 
procure them. 

July 1843. 



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PARISH OF ARDNAMURCHAN.* 

PRESBYTBRY OF MULL, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. ARCHIBALD CLERK, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Names. — Before the ReformatioD, three parishes were com- 
prised in the portion of country now known as the parish of Ard- 
nainurchan. At the establishment of the Protestant Church, 
these appear to have fallen under the care of one minister ; but 
the united parishes, according to a practice not unfrequent, re- 
ceived as a common name, not that of all or any of the three pa- 
rishes, but that of the chief of five districts within its bounds. 
This was Ardnamurchan, naturally the most fertile, and conse- 
quently, before the resources of the less arable, though now per- 
haps not less valuable districts, were discovered, by far the most 
populous, — a precedence which it still holds to a considerable eit- 
tenU Some consequence farther accrued to it from the castle and 
residence of the ancient Lords of Ardnamurchan and Sunart be- 
ing situated at its western extremity, as are also, since the Re- 
formation, the parish church and dwelling of the minister. 

The ancient and perhaps poetical name of Ardnamurchan was 
** Riochd na Sorcha," (the kingdom ofSorcha^) an appellation for 
certain districts not singular in the Highlands, and. which would 
claim for it in remote antiquity certainly not less extent than in 
modern times it possesses as a parish. Its present name is un- 
derstood to signify the " Promontory or heights of the great seas^** 
(Aird nam Mor Chuan,) though some may fancy it to be 
" Aird nam Mur Chumhan," the ** promontory of the narrow seas** 
Certainly both are strictly significant of its character and position, 
for to the westward it throws a bold and striking headland of ste- 
rile rock far into the sea, so as to form a remarkable boundary be- 

• Drawn up by the Rev. Angus M*I.can, late minister of the parish of Ardna- 
murchan. 



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IIB ARGTLESHIUE. 

twixt the open ocean and the many narrow straits and lochs to 
which the Sound of Mull is, from the west, the inlet. 

Situation and Extent. — Two districts, Ardnamurchan and Su- 
nart, are in Argyleshire ; the other three, Moidart, Arasaig, and 
South Morir are in the county of Inverness. The measurement 
of the former is 87,753 acres Scotch, that of the latter the irriter 
has in vain tried to procure. It is in all probability a good deal 
more than that of the Ai^yleshire portion of the parish. The ex* 
tent of the whole is estimated in the last Statistical Account at 
200,000 acres, a moderate computation. 

Boundaries. — The parish is bounded on the south -west by the 
northern end of the Sound of Mull ; on the south, by Loch Su- 
nart, which winds eastward betwixt it and Morren. At the upper 
end of this loch, both parishes are conterminous for a mile or so. 
On the east, it is bounded by the district of Kingerloch, in the 
parish of Lismore ; on the east and north*east, by those of Ard« 
gower, Lochiet, and Locharkaig, in the parish of Kilmalie, tbe 
boundary line passing, it is said in the old Statistical Account, 
** over a range of ten mountains, by as many alternate ascents and 
descents ;" certainly over a country rugged and mountainous in 
the extreme. On the north, it is bounded by Lochmorir and the 
river issuing from it, which divide it from Northmorir, in the pa- 
rish of Glenelg ; and on the north-west and west, by that part of 
the Atlantic which washes the opposite shores of Skye and the 
Small Isles. 

Topography. — It is difficult to take a connected view, or to com- 
municate a general idea, of a parish of such vast extent and di- 
versified conformation. It may, however be described as a broad 
stretch of rugged mainland, branching into the sea in several 
points and promontories, the most 'southern of which the noted 
headland of Ardnamurchan, is by far the most prominent. 

In attempting a particular description, it may assist imagination 
to follow the immemorial division into districts, which appears to 
have been determind at some remote period, according to great 
natural landmarks. The peninsula or district of Ardnamurchan, 
properly so called, consists of a range of rather low hills, running 
from the well-known point in an easterly direction to the distance 
of about twenty-four miles, nowhere less than four and a-hal^ nof 
exceeding seven miles in breadth. For ten or twelve miles from 
the point, the hills are of the secondary or transition series, and in 
some places afford pasture of the finest quality. A large portioUf 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. 



UD 



comparatively, of the coast, coDsists of productive arable and se» 
veral well-cultivated farms, while little wood is to be seen. Be- 
yond this, the country assumes the bolder and more precipitous 
aspect of the gneiss or mica slate formation ; the pastures become 
coarser ; woods of oak, birch, and hazel, especially on the south, 
through which scanty patches of cultivated land are seen at distant 
intervals, clothe the nakedness of the rocks, and cover the lower 
part of the hills down to the waters of Loch Sunart. At its junc- 
tion with Sunart, Ardnamurchan slopes gradually on the south 
into a low neck of land, across which the line of demarcation ex- 
tends for three miles, from the beautiful Creek of Salen on Loch 
Sunart to the west end of LochshieL On the north, its eastern 
extremity is a moss flat of great extent, upon which the hills 
abruptly descend, and which is bounded by the river Sbiel, the 
boundary betwixt this district and Moidart. 

Sunart. — In some old records, it is written Swynefort or Swynr- 
ford. Hard by its western extremity, but in Ardnamurchan, there 
is a creek where boats or galleys might be drawn up or moored, 
called Swinefort, which in Gaelic means the port or landing-place 
of Swin, Swen, or Sweno; in the tenth century, a king of Denmark, 
an apostate from Christianity, having been driven from his king- 
dom took refuge in Scotland, where, during his exile, he again em- 
braced the true faith. If this Prince landed at Swinefort, or re- 
sided in the district, both may have been named from that circum- 
stance. At any rate ** Suain Mac High Lochlunn," ^* Swin Prince 
of Denmark," is a name well known ia Highland tradition, and 
it appears certain that Sunart is compounded of ^* Suain" and 
^* Aird, height or eminences." Suaine, however, also, in Gaelic, 
means rest or sleep. The exceeding stillness of the land-locked 
waters of Loch Sunart may have suggested the name given to 
secure and tranquil Suain and also to the district This dis- 
trict is a continuation of Ardnamurchan, and is in mean breadth 
not less than 10, nor in length than 25 miles. The character of 
its rocks and soil is the same with that of the contiguous poition of 
the latter ; but its mountains rise to a greater height ; its valleys 
are wider and deeper ; its scenery altogether cast in a grander 
mould ; and its declivities more amply wooded. For a few miles, it 
presents the aspect of one mountainous ridge, which, as we pro- 
ceed eastward, expands. The coast on the south trends to the 
south-east, and on the north for a much greater distance to the 
north-east, so as to give a far greater breadth at its eastern than 



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120 AR6TLBSHIRE. 

western extremity; and while an unbroken range of high idood* 
tains may be traced overlooking Loch Suoart on the one hand* 
and Lochshiel on the other, the intermediate country, especially 
as we approach the boundary^ consists of an irregitlar assemblage 
of huge hills, circular valleys and glens. 

Moidartf pronounced in Gaelic Muidard, ('* Mud," an old Gaelic 
word for sea spray, and *' Aird," heights, literally the heights of 
sea spray, a most descriptive designation,) about 25 miles long, 
with a breadth all along probably of 10 or 12. It lies parallel to 
Sunart along the whole extent of Lochshiel, and to Ardnamur- 
chan, for a few miles west from that lake, jutting out in several bold 
and craggy headlands in that direction into the ocean. Washed 
on the west and north by the sea, and on the south by Lochshiel, 
and the river which constitutes the western outlet of that lake, it 
is, like Ardnamurchan and Sunart, bounded on all sides by water 
except on the eastern end, which rests partly on Arasaig and the 
parish of Kilmalie. Both sides present a nearly unbroken chain 
of mountains, but the space between baffles description, consist* 
ing of 

'* Crags, rocks, and hills confuiedly hurl'd, 
The fragments of some former world.** 

These, all resting on a high mountain range, are covered with 
scanty grass and heath, the uniform brown of which bleak pastur- 
age is varied only by the gray and often precipitous rocks, the 
shadows of some dark ravines, and the grayish -green of hollows 
where the accumulated washings of the rocky masses form a 
deeper and less barren soil. There are, however, valuable plains 
and valleys in this interesting district, which shall yet be noticed. 

Arasaig and South Morir. — Aras^ place or dwelling-place; aiffj 
a harbour or bay, the place of the harbour ; tnarir^ mor^ ^^^ > 
and thir^ pronounced Air, land, the great or mainland. The 
first is descriptive of the best known and most fertile part of Ara- 
saig ; the second would naturally have been conferred on the dis- 
trict by the islanders, being, as it still is, a common resort for 
island craft. 

These districts being divided by no well-defined natural demar- 
cation, may be described as one. They constitute together a por- 
tion of country twenty-four miles long by fifteen broad, the west- 
ern parts of which, like those of Moidart, project seaward, in seve* 
ral rocky points and headlands. The hills on the sea coast are 
generally rather low, though rugged and sterile. Farther back, 
without losing,but rather gaining, with respect to the latter cha- 



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ATIDNAMURCHAN. 121 

mcteristic, they rise to a great height ; and the whole of the re- 
tnaining country is composed of immense mountain ranges, whose 
sidesy jagged with huge rocks, or broken into precipices, oversha- 
dow deep and dark Valleys which wind between. This, which lies 
northward of all the other districts of the parish, exceeds all in 
the wild and savage grandeur of its scenery. It, however, con- 
tains some extensive and good sheep pastures, and some green 
fields and cultivated land on the coast, which delight the eye, as 
well as woods, chiefly of birch, which give beauty and shelter to 
the shores of Loch Morir and Lochoranua. 

Hydrography, — Loch Sunart, an arm of the 8ea> about twenty- 
five miles long, bounding the parish on the south, is an offset of 
the Sound of Mull, at its junction with which it is about six miles 
in breadth, and becomes gradually narrower until, six or seven 
miles inland, it appears to terminate at the group of islands formed 
by Carna, Risga, and Oransay. Between these, the tide rushes 
with great velocity into a land-locked and generally smooth ex- 
panse, constituting the greatest portion of the length of the loch, 
varying from half a mile to two miles in breadth, and much from 
the straight line, in consequence of the points of Dungallan in 
Ardnamurchan and Airderinish in Morvern projecting in opposite 
directions. The water here has generally the brown colour of 
the many mountain streams which flow into it^ and has all the ap- 
pearance of a fresh water lake enclosed by high and rocky moun- 
tains, abrupt rocks, and wooded promontories, without any visible 
traces of the parent sea except the ebb and flow of the tide, the sea- 
v^eed laid bare at low- water, and an occasional porpoise or smaller 
fishes pursuing their prey. At about six miles from its head, it 
again contracts into a narrow strait of no great length, and again 
expands, retaining a breadth varying from a quarter to half a mile 
until it terminates. There is a very correct chart of this arm of 
the sea, in the possession of Sir James Miles Riddell, Bart. 

Loch Moidart runs into the district of that name for about four 
miles from west to east Its depth does not appear to be great ; 
and great part of its bottom is laid bare at low water. The sea 
enters by narrow channels on each side of the island Shana in its 
mouth. Steep and lofty mountains, whose scathed and naked 
peaks are generally enveloped in clouds, embosom the innermost 
and greatest sheet of water,, which, almost always calm, even when 
the open sea is most wildly agitated, reflects from its placid sur- 



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122 AHGTLK8H1RB. 

face tall and fiuitasticalljosbaped rocks, wood^crowoed beigfau^ 
and all the most striking features of Highland scenery ; while» as 
if to contrast human mutability and grandeur passed away with 
the Tast and unchangeable creations of Almighty power, the high 
gray turrets of Castle Tyrim, a stronghold of the Clanranald, now 
in ruins, are seen from many different positions, — a memorial of the 
times when the shout of armed clans and the clang of the conflict 
disturbed the silence of these still waters, and now peaceful so- 
litudes. 

Loch- nan- Uamh, an open unsheltered arm of the sea, is situated 
betwixt Moidart and Arasaig. It is about four miles in mean 
breadth, for about the same distance of its length, untiU at the 
headland of Ardnish, it becomes narrower, and terminates, three 
or four miles farther on, in a small bay beyond Barradale. Loch- 
atnart, five or six miles long, generally less than a quarter of a mile 
broad, winds betwixt Ardnish and Moidart, and terminates at Kin* 
chr^an in Arasaig. It is a branch of Loch*nan-Uamb. The 
course of both is from west to east 

Loch-na-Reaull, immediately north of the point of Arasaig, is 
in length about three miles or upwards, being from north-west to 
south-east : it is a shallow expanse of about one and a«half or two 
miles in breadth. 

Loch ShieL — Of the inland lakes, which abound in all parts of 
the parish, this is, in every respect, the most important It fills 
the lower part of the entire valley which divides Sunart and Moi- 
dart, is computed at twenty-five to twenty-seven miles in length, 
varies from 200 yards to three-quarters of a mile in breadth, but 
in the greater part from a quarter to half a-mile. At its west end, 
it is shallower, and reposes on a bed of fine sand (as do the great 
moss flats contiguous,) similar to that of the sea-shore, about two 
miles distant About six miles to the eastward, it becomes deep, 
and, from the character of the country, retains, it is probable^ 
great depth on to its eastern end* Its water has the usual dark- 
brown colour of lakes similarly situated, but is clear and pellucid 
in a glass vessel, pure and pleasant to the taste. Its elevation 
above the sea cannot be great, for the river by which it flows into 
the Western Ocean is navigable, except during great drought, for 
open boats. From its eastern end, it discharges its waters, in con- 
siderable volume, by a stream a few miles long, through the parish 
of Kihnalie into Locheil, a branch of the Linne Hiloch. 

3 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. 123 

The circumstance of this lake almost coDnectiog the arm 
of the sea into which the Caledonian Canal opens to the west 
with the western ocean, by a short and direct line, (whereby the 
long and nearly circular route through the Linne Hiloch, the Sound 
of Mull, and round the formidable point of Ardnamuchan, would 
be saved,) attracted the notice of Mr Telford, and is noticed in his 
report regarding the Caledonian CanaL The opening of this line of 
communication ou the same scale would evidently greatly increase 
the benefit of that canal. Even the deepening of the river Shiel, 
and a canal, however unezpensive, connecting the lake with the 
sea on the east, would prove, not only locally, but generally use- 
ful. Open boats from tho. Western Isles are in the practice of 
entering the lake by the river, and taking away ladings of the tim- 
ber on its banks. Fishermen from the east have pulled their boats 
overland from Lochshiel into the lake, and, finding their way on its 
waters into the western sea, have taken a fiiU cargo of fish before 
companions, who took the more circuitous route, arrived at the 
fishing-station. The scenery of this lake at its west end is, for 
several miles, rather sombre, consisting chiefly of brown low hills, 
flats of brown moss, through which the lake winds itself. The 
ever-green island of St Finnan, about six miles eastward, ap- 
pears an oasis in the desert Beyond this, the lake plunges 
into the midst of high mountains, whose sides, generally nearly 
precipitous, are streaked with the foam of falling streams, or 
seamed with rugged ravines. Woods of oak, ash, and birch, 
thrive vigorously among the cliffs and promontories. The hills 
are occasionally green, rounded, and swelling, for many miles, 
but their prevailing character is stern and grand ; the visitor 
feels a sense of loneliness, seldom broken by the sight of a human 
habitation, or enlivened by any sound but the dash of waterfalls 
or the scream of some bird of prey. 

Loch Morir extends from west to east Its wide expanse of 
water lies betwixt South Morir, in the parish of Ardnamurchan, and 
North Morir, in that of Glenelg, for a length exceeding twenty 
miles, and with a breadth varying from one to probably three 
mil^s. Its depth is unknown, but is probably considerable. Its 
elevation is considerably above that of Lochshiel ; its colour much 
the same. Like Lochshiel, it fills the lower part of an extensive 
valley, bounded by high and steep hills, but without any great 
flats on its shores. Some arable grounds on the gentler slopes 
are seen at a distance, and woods thriving vigorously at frequent 



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124 AnoVLESHinK. 

intervals ; and though the mountains present the bleak and speck- 
led aspect of patches of rock and heather contending for the mas- 
tery, their huge bulk saves them from the charge of tameness, 
and some excellent sheep grazing from that of utter barrenness. 
The scenery of the west end is well-wooded and interesting, and 
from thence the lake lies open to et^stward for about fifteen miles, 
a wild, dreary, yet magnificent prospect. 

Loch Beoraig, situated east of the arable part of Meoble, in the 
glen of that name, is from two to three miles long. Loch Eilt, 
about the same length, is the largest of a chain of small lakes in 
the great glen, which extends from Locbainart towards Glenfinnan. 
There is also a lake of considerable size in the valley of Glenhui- 
ricb in Sunart. Of lakes of all sizes there are said, in the old 
Statistical Account, to be 300 in the parish, the correctness of 
which statement there is no reason to doubt. 

Rivers. — Of these the most important, in every respect, are 
those flowing from Loch Shiel and Loch Morir. That from the 
east end of the former flows into the parish of Kilmalie ; that from 
the west end, about two miles long, having the broadest channel, 
and probably the greatest volume of water, flows into the Western 
•Ocean, into which Lochmorir also pours its waters in a fine stream, 
apparently of much the same volume and length. I'he river 
Mioble, flowing into Morir, and of Pollock, flowing into Loch 
Shiel, are also considerable streams. 

Mountains. — The only hills of which, so far as the writer could 
ascertain, the altitude has been taken, are those in Sunart, men- 
tioned in the last Statistical Account, viz. Ben Husepol, 2661 
feet; Scur Dhoniel, 2730 feet; Scour Choinich, 2364; Creach 
bhunn, 2439; Glaschoiren hill, 1920. The mountain ranges, 
of which it may be remarked, that they generally, if not al- 
ways, run in an eastern direction from the sea coast, require a 
more particular examination and a more scientific description than 
it was in the writer's power to bestow. 

Valleys. — Near the eastern extremity of Sunart, the beautiful 
and fertile valley of Strontian opens to the south, upon the arm 
of the sea which bears the name of that district, and retires inland 
for about five or six miles; first, in a westerly and then in a northerly 
direction, where, on one side, it is covered with some fine natural 
oaks. At its opening, the prominent objects are the flourishing plan- 
tations, the tasteful grounds and picturesque residence of the pro« 
prietor, and so far forward, as to be situated on the shores of Loch 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. 125 

Sunart, a neat and comfortable inn. Farther back, on the same 
or east side of the yalley, are seen the well*managed farm and ex- 
cellent farm-house and offices of Drimantarran, an extensive flat 
of improYed and productive moss ; and, on the other, far up the 
lower slopes of the hills, to the upper extremity of the glen, the 
dwellings and welUcultivated crofts of numerous cottagers. Close 
by the quiet stream which divides the valley, and tolerably centri- 
cally situated, stands the Government church, and at some dis* 
tance northward, overlooking the place of worship, and the most 
populous part of the glen, on a sheltered yet elevated situation, 
the low-roofed manse of the minister. The level part, which is 
not many yards above the level of the sea, is nowhere above a few 
hundred yards broad ; but the tops of the bounding hills are seve- 
ral miles distant, so that they do not overhang but shelter the vaU 
ley, which is consequently warm, sunny, and cheerful. Opening 
in the opposite direction upon Loch Shiel, immediately on the 
other side of a high mountain range, and little, if at all, above the 
same level, is another valley of some miles extent from north to 
south. The hill sides are here precipitous, and overshadow the 
strath below, and there is a wild and sombre grandeur in the sce- 
nery, well and beautifully relieved by some acres of level and good 
land, and the neat little arable enclosures and farm-house of Pol- 
lock, situated where the hills, whose cliffs are there adorned with 
partial coverings of birch, expand, and receive into their bosom a 
magnificent bay of Loch Shiel. 

Glenaheurich is a valley in Sunart of some note, containing a 
lake of considerable size, a good farm-house, and remarkably fine 
sheep pasture. It is situated a few miles north of Slrontian. To 
the same district also pertain about two miles of the great glen, 
which runs from the bead of Loch Sunart to the shores of the 
Linne Hiloch, and which connects the peninsula composed of 
Morven and Kingerloch with the mainland. 

Gfeiui/actafe.— About six or seven miles east of Pollock, a val- 
ley of this name in Moidart opens to the south upon Loch Shiel, 
the flat or strath being about 300 yards broad, but little above the 
level of the lake, and consisting of some tolerable arable and im- 
provable pasture. The hills which confine it are towards Loch 
Shiel, green, rounded, and swelling. It is about two miles long, 
running from south to north. 

Kifdochmoidart. — At the head of Lochmoidart, which indents 
the western extremity of this district^ the high bounding ranges 



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126 ARGYLESHIRR. 

which inclose the lake continue to run tDtand, and form the first 
part or opening of a valley, about seyen or eight miles long. The 
level land here is about 200 acres in extent, (the soil moss about 
two feet thick on a bed of clay,) extending about three-quar* 
ters of a mile along the head of the loch, and about the same dis- 
tance back into the glen, with a quarter of a mile in mean breadth* 
It is all good and productive arable, though still capable of much 
improvement, to which the greatest obstacle is its slight elevation 
above the level of the sea. Some fine old sycamores and other 
trees around the embowered and sequestered residence of the 
proprietor, attest the maturity and great size to which forest trees 
are there capable of arriving. Groves of vigorous larches and 
firs, and woods of oak, birch, and ash, profitably adorn the lesser 
eminences and the slopes of the high mountains. Where the 
plain of Kinlochmoidart terminates on the east, the valley takes 
a north-easterly direction, and we come upon the farm of Locbans, 
and a small lake not more probably than ten or fifteen feet above 
the level of the sea, the flat land being about 150 yards broad, 
chiefly swampy, yet improvable ground. After this, the valley, 
under the name of Glenforslan, contracts, until, at about a mile 
from its upper extremity, beyond a farm-house of that name, the 
level ground ceases, and the stream fills the entire bottom. This 
last is not the least valuable part of the glen. The hills, though 
steep, are covered with a depth of soil uncommon in such situa- 
tions, and of course with grass of superior quality. 

Gibsti^.— About six miles from Kinlochmoidart, a valley of 
this name runs for about two miles from Lochnanua to the south, 
requiring no particular description. 

Glenmeuble, — This is a long deep and dreary valley, aitfiated 
in the wildest and central parts of Arasaig, extending from Lock- 
morir on the north-west, towards Glenfinnan on the south-east, 
for at least ten miles. The only habitable portion is the fiirm of 
Meoble, situated at its north-eastern extremity, where there are 
some acres of tolerable arable and considerable plain. South-east 
from this, its lower part is for three miles occupied by the waters 
of Loch Brosaig, a lake about a quarter of a. mile broad, beyond 
which the windings of the glen are soon lost in the misty recesses 
of precipitous and overhanging hills. 

It would be interminable and bootless labour even te allude to 
all the valleys in a parish of such vast extent, consistiog, as it does, 
almost altogether of hill and glen ; but one more may be men- 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. 127 

tioned, as connected with the general structure of the country. 
It extends from GlenBnnan, at the east end of Lochshiel, in a 
north-eastern direction for some niiles> when it is intercepted by 
a mound, or lower mountainous range, connecting the higher 
ranges on each side. Beyond this, the valley meets with no si- 
milar interruption, until it terminates at the head of Lochaylort, 
distant ten miles from Glenfinnan. This is the neck which joins 
the whole of Moidard and part of Arasaig to the mainland. 

Mot8 Flats* — At the west end of Lochshiel, and in close 
neighbourhood, there are three extensive flats of this description. 

The Moss of Kinkaw, extending from the west end of that 
lake to the sea shore, and along the eastern bank of the river 
Shiel, is, according to an old survey of Sir Alexander Murray 
of Stanhope, fully seven square miles in area. Another, the moss 
of Acbaneilein, with a mean breadth apparently of about three- 
fourths of a mile, stretches along the south side of Lochshiel for 
opwards of five miles from near the eastern boundary of the first. 
The greater part of both is a perfect quagmire, or quaking moss 
of unknown depth, through which progress can only be made by 
leaping from one tuft of stunted heather and coarse grass to ano- 
ther ; but many hundred acres of both, especially along the max* 
gin of the lake and the sea shore, are highly improvable ; the 
moss, onl} two or three feet deep, reposing upon a bed of sand« 
Right opposite to the Moss of Achaneilein, on the north or Moi- 
Azxi side of Lochshiel, is situated the Moss of Langal, a plain of 
679 acres, all capable, at a moderate expense, of being converted 
into highly productive arable soil. The moss rarely exceeds three 
or four feet in depth ; the substratum is sand, which^ when brought 
to the surface in trenching, soon decomposes the peat With the 
help of a marly shell sand, found in considerable quantities in the 
bed of the river Shiel, at the western end of this moss, and some 
Boa ware, good crops of potatoes have been raised, although the 
ground was not broke up until the previous winter. On the hill 
elopes to the eastward, there are 400 acres of the same deserip- 
tion, equally susceptible of improvement 

At Inveraylort, in Arasaig, there is a considerable iat of im:- 
provable moss, not unlike that of Langal in quality, but not pro- 
bably exceeding fifty acres in extent 

Betwixt the west end of Lochmorir and sea shore of Arasaig, 
there is another great moss flat of many hundred acres, a great 
proportion of which, it may be presumed, from the success with 



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19A 

AUGYLESHIRB. 

which a few patches have been cultivated, is improvable, and may 
yet, with the other great mosses of the parish, should the resources 
of the Highlands come into notice, attract a small share of the 
enterprize and capital so lavishly expended on distant colonies 
and foreign lands. The moss last mentioned, it will be noticed, 
is situated similarly to that of Kintra, in so far as to lie betwixt 
a great lake and the sea, but with this difference, that it is sepa* 
rated from both by low hills. There are many other mosses of 
considerable size in the parish. 

Caves. — On the north coast of Ardnamurchan there are several 
qaves, which are sometimes thought worthy of a visit ; as also, 
on the shores of Lochnanua, '^ the Loch of Caves," in Arasaig. 
Three of these the writer has entered. One about 300 feet long 
or upwards, enters on the land side of a precipitous mass of rock, 
on the farm of Giendrian, in Ardnamurchan, and so nearly ap- 
proaches the sea on the other, that the rise and fall of the waves, 
as they tumble and boil without, is heard distinctly at its inner 
extremity, which is coated with spar. It is generally extremely 
narrow ; the sides, which rise to a great height, are far inclined 
from the perpendicular, and correspond with the dip of the mica 
slate rocks, out of which it seems cleft. Another, not far to the 
eastward, much of the same description, terminates in a small 
chamber about ten feet high, and about ten feet by four in length 
and breadth, coated with white spar slightly tinged with brown. 
The numerous projections on the sides and root are translucent, 
and appear, when lighted, somewhat of an amber colour. The 
sea enters at high water, and access is diflScult. On its 6r8t dis- 
covery, not a great many years ago by some boys in pursuit of 
goats, many stalactites, thick as a man's arm, and several feet 
long, hung like icicles from its roof and sides. Unfortunately, 
the exciseman of the district happened to be a man of taste, and, 
impelled by that love so common to tourists, of appropriating 
objects, the value of which, any where else but where they are 
found, it is difficult to discover. Accordingly, he broke and took 
away all the stalactites. Another cave, in Suerdale Charrach, 
also on the north shores of the same district, nowise remarkable 
in itself, was, in past times* visited by sick people for the recovery 
of health. A shallow cavity, in the interior, contains about a 
quart of water, which, though completely removed, soon forms 
again in a manner supposed to be miraculous, by oozing through 
the moist rock. Of this the visitor drank, and left» as an offering. 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. 129 

a smalt piece of ifioDey, or any article of little value. A few years 
ago, some pins, needles, metal buttons, and an old halfpenny^ 
might be seen there, the last tribute to expiring superstition. At 
Baradale, in Arasaig, a cave is shown as one of those rude fast* 
nesses which gave shelter to Prbce Charles Stuart after his de- 
feat at Culloden, a purpose for which it is well adapted. It is in 
a rock of mica slate, and within expands into an apartment of 
considerable size, floored with jagged and uneven stones. Yet 
here, in damp and utter darkrless, the unfortunate Prince took re« 
foge for three- days. There is another cave, on Locbnanua, not 
now well known, where he also concealed himself. Another, in 
Ocal, in Ardnamurchan, is said, on its own account, to be well 
wnrtb a visit Of course, in a parish of such extent, there are 
many clefts and fissures running into the rocks, which it would be 
tedious to mention. All are on the sea shores, and many the 
haunts of wild pigeons. 

CoasL^^The coast, the extent of which, considering how deeply 
and frequently the land is indented by lochs, cannot be estimated 
at less than several hundred miles, is, so far as can be seen fr9m 
shipboard, generally bold and rocky, especially the headland of 
Ardnamurchan, which, from its position, is thrown much in the 
course of mariners. When the wind is high, and blows from the 
open sea, as it generally does on one part or other of this iron- 
bound promontory, its aspect is very formidable. The sea rises 
with the abrupt and irregular motion occasioned by strong tides, 
so very dangerous to open boats ; breaks in huge masses of boil- 
ing foam and showers of spray against the rugged barrier of na- 
ked rock, while no creek or landing-place, where even life could 
be saved, though there are in fact several, is visible. 

North of the point of Ardnamurchan, the coast inclines sud- 
denly inward and eastward, so as to form, with the point of Ara- 
saig bearing east north-east from the former, a deep and wide 
bay, the shores of which, presenting all around a seaward frontier 
of rock^ high ranges, and rocky headlands, seem everywhere in- 
accessible. At the point of Arasaig, where the land again juts 
considerably to the westward, the coast, though rocky, is compa- 
rativei]i low. Here, however, ledges of low and numberless sunk 
rocks extend to the northern boundary of the parish, guarding 
the mouth of Lochoakeaull and the sandy shores of Lochmorir, 
with a barrier line of breakers advanced about three-quarters of 
a mile inin the sea. 

ABGYLt:. I 



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^^^ AR0YLE8HIRE. 

Headlands and Islands. — The headland of Ardoamurchan is 
not only the most noted in the parish, but on the whole line of 
coast betwixt Cape Wrathand the Mull of Cantire, being the 
westernmost part of the mainland of Britain. From the era of 
Somerled to the reign of James VI^ it constituted a geographical 
boundary between the Western Isles, which were denominated 
Northern or Southern, according to their position in respect to 
this promontory. As might be expected, vessels are not unfre- 
quently cast on shore in some of its indentations, or dashed to a 
thousand fragments on its rocks. At a creek on the extreme 
point, as wild and desolate a spot as can well be conceived, a few 
green mounds, among the brown and withered herbage, indicate 
where the mutilated bodies of shipwrecked seamen rest below. 
The advantage of erecting a light-house here will, it is believed, 
not be denied by any one. The only other headland, of more 
than local notoriety, is Rheu Arasaig, or the Point of Arasaig, 
which projects considerably to the westward, and is a place of call 
for the steamers plying from Glasgow to Skye and the Long 
Island. ♦ 

The only island worth noticing is Island Shona, which nearly 
blocks up the mouth, and occupies great part of Lochmoidart. 
It is about three or four miles long, by about one and a-balf 
broad, mostly composed of masses of rock, rather scantily covered 
with heath and wood, but exhibiting here and there spots of great 
verdure and fertility. The dwelling-house and surrounding sce-^ 
nery of the residence of a respectable family on this bland, are 
very beautiful. 

Sands. — Wherever sandy beaches are found, they seem to be 
formed in great part, sometimes, though rarely, entirely of de- 
composed particles of the adjacent rocks. This, however, is ge- 
nerally largely mixed with minutely broken shells, often with clay, 
and more or less according as the situation is exposed to, or shel' 
tered from the violence of the sea, with mud, the residue of de- 
cayed sea-weed, and the vegetable deposits of streams* Two 
kinds of shell sand, in .high repute as manure, are found in banks 
above, or beds under the surface. One seems to be a collection, 
pure and unmixed, of common shells, minutely broken by the 

* Tbe other headlands most noted are, Ardnish, in Arasaig ; Smirapary, in Moi- 
dnrt : Ardriminish, Sunna, Sron CUoinn GbiUeain, Hatha Ghlinn Borodail, Don- 
j^allan, in Ardnamurchan. 



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audnamurchan. 131 

force of the waves. Of this there is a bank at Ardtoe, in Ard- 
DamurchaD. The other, and the most valued, is formed of small 
coral like pieces, having often several branches similar to that 
substance, and mariy matter, and is found in layers about a foot 
thick under six or seven inches of common sand at Kilchoan and 
Ardtoe, in Ardnamurchan. At the latter place, it has been found 
to answer on being well worked with a trowel, without any admix- 
t<ire, as a tolerable plaster for the dry stone cottages of the in- 
Iiabitants. The chief deposit of this sand is an inexhaustible 
bank at the ledge of rocks which run across the mouth of Loch- 
nakeaul, in Arasaig, whence it is conveyed to the distance of fifty 
and sixty miles. There is also a bed of marly shell sand, totally 
different from either of those just mentioned, found at the west 
end of LochshieU 

Sands ofKintra. — West of the great moss flat of Kintra, situ- 
ated betwixt the sea and Locbshiel, and bounding the flat in that 
direction, extends the beach or sands of Kintra. This is an ex- 
panse not less than two miles square, nearly circular in form, 
over which the sea flows only at high water, and to no great depth, 
consisting of fine light-coloured sand, the debris of primitive rocks, 
mixed with large proportions of shell sand, decomposed land and 
marine plants, sonoe day, and doubtlessly a great quantity of ani- 
mal matter derived from the mussels, cockles, and other shell-fish 
with which it abounds. The sea being admitted by a narrow in- 
let, seems very capable of exclusion by an embankment; the 
streams from inland are equally susceptible of being collected in- 
to a canal for conveyance of materials to and from the very mar- 
gin of the great moss. The substance of the moss and the sands 
affording the best manure for each other, seem placed by nature 
in juxtaposition for mutual improvement, and present an inviting 
field for the investiture of great capital At the head of Loch 
Moidart, there is also an extent of beach exposed, at low water, 
about one and a-half mile long and a-half broad. It is chiefly 
composed of deep soft clay, mingled with the substances just 
mentioned, as component parts of the sands of Kintra. There 
is also a beach of considerable extent at the head of Loch A inert ; 
one of white srlicious sand on the coast of Loch Morir ; and an- 
other of the 6an>e description at Bnnna, near the point of Ardna^ 
morchan. 

Meteorology. — No meteorological record has been kept in the 



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1*32 AROYLESHIRE. 

parish, except observations with the thernioineter and t>aroineter, 
(from which the following has been obtained,) kept by Colonel Ro- 
bertson Macdonald of Kinloehmoidart. 



1634. 


1885. 


1836. 


1887. 


1886. 


Meuof 


Mean of 


Mean of 


Mean of 


Mean of 


Thn. Bar. 


Ther. Bar. 


Ther. 


Bar. 


Tber. Bar. 


Ther. Bar. 


Jtn 


87 29.9i 


864 


aBL94 


... ... 


854 ^^ 


Feb 


434 2a9 


87 


29.8 





32 29.4 


Marob 


44 99.24 


St 


2aft 


... 


44 29.8 


April, 


48 29.44 


29.4 ^ 


... 


45 j29^4 


May, 57 29.8 


504 ^'^ 


56 


29.6, 





534 29.54 


June, 02 29.8 


68 29.8 


674 


286 


60 29 


... 


July, 68} 29.4 


64 29.3 


56 


29.2 


61 29l14 


«.« «.. 


Aug. 61 29.2 


624 ^-^i 


56 


29.3 


59 29.8 




Sept. 59k 29.4i 


554 29.1 


524 


29.1 


544 29 




Oct. 47 29.4 


464 28.8 




... 


474 29.8 




KoT. ... 29.4 


40 29.74 


... 




48 29.04 




Dee. 44 29.8 


894 39-94 


... 


... 


404 29.2 






The climate is undoubtedly temperate, though exceedingly va- 
riable. Snow, which scarcely ever falls heavily, seldom lasts longer 
than twenty-four hours on the low grounds, though on the higher 
hills it may continue for months. Frost is generally not severe 
nor of long duration. The great drawback of the climate is 
frequent and violent gales of wind, which greatly interrupt, and 
render perilous travelling by sea, a common mode of communication ; 
sometimes they do much damage to stoidingcrops, and, it is believed, 
destroy winter grass and foggage more than the cold of that season. 
Providing shelter from the wind could be obtained, it ifl the opi* 
nion of competent judges, that any plants or flowers grown in 
South Britain might be raised. Sometimes, however, frost, dur- 
ing night, blights the blosom of iruit trees in the end of April 
and begimiing of May, 

Diuaats. — The prevailing complaints are, oommoa colds, in- 
fluenza, erysipelas, and diseases of the stomacfau Pulmonary con- 
sumption was, for some years, rather prevalent in the valley of 
Strontian, and scrofula in the Inverness shire districts^ The last 
has been accounted for by intermarriages with persons constitu- 
tionally liable to that disease, to which it is said the people have 
no reluctance ; but as there is no ground for the supposition that 
they were at any former period more scrupulous, it may with more 
probability be attributed to the moist and variaUe cUtnate, operas 
ing on constitutions relaxed by scanty and innutritive diet. Rheu- 
matism and inflammatory ailments, tJkough attributable in 80in» 
degree to the climate, are not so frequent as might be expectedk 
Infectious fevers are of frequent^ in truth of annual occurrence ; 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. 



\sb 



but in every case, at least for the last ten years, have been im- 
ported from the great towns of the south, generally by home sick 
convalescent patients, to whom the steamers now afford every fa- 
cility^ to return to their homes. Experience of their fatal effects 
has happily taught the people such caution, that these diseases 
now seldom spread beyond the family a£3icted. Upon the whole, 
the climate with all its inconveniences, is very healthy. 

Geology. — So far as the writer can ascertain, there has been no geo- 
logical survey of the parish. About ten miles of Ardnamurchan, 
east from the headland or point, appears to be of the trap series ; 
in this it accords with the opposite coast of Morvern, and that of 
Mull on the sound of that island. The prevailing rocks are whin- 
stone. 

With these are interspersed extensive beds of limestone of a 
fine-grained slaty rock, of light greyish blue colour, and some hard 
sandstone. The west face of the headland is in many parts pene- 
trated by numberless whin dikes, or veins of basalt, intersecting 
each other in all directions, of one striking instance of which, a 
correct plate is given in Dr Macculloch's third volume on the He- 
brides. The rock, however, is not limestone, as there represented, ' 
but hard sandstone of a similar colour. Organic remains in the 
fossil state are contained in great quantities in a rock at the point 
of Ormsaig Big, on the south side of this headland. In a neigh* 
bouring hill, pitchstone is found, and glance coal in the hill of 
Bensheand. Iron and copper ores are said in Sir Alexander Mur- 
ray's Survey, to exist in the same neighbourhood. The founda- 
tion of the older or primitive rocks, on which the foundations above- 
mentioned rest, protrude in many instances on the sea shores, and 
are distinctly traceable on the north coast especially, for miles^ 
from a place not far from the point. To this series belongs the 
whole wide extent of the parish, with the exception, perhaps, of a 
few small superincumbent masses of crumbling rock near Lochna^ 
keaul, the country being composed of gneiss, mica-slate, a fine- 
grained kind of the latter, which quarries into broad, tolerably 
smooth flags, and at Strontian of granite. Here, as is well 
known, lead ore abounds, as well as Strontium, so named on 
account of its being there first discovered. Traces of- lead 
ore are also found in the hills of Dallella, and Lachans in Moi- 
darl; 

SotVs. — These where arable, with the exception of some parts of 



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134 AUGYLE8H1BB. 

Ardnamiirchfttt, are light aud friable^ consistiag of decomposed 
mineral and vegetable particles^ washed from the mountaios by the 
rains or streams, or of reclaimed mess. In some cases^ they are 
gravelly and stony to a degree betokening utter barrenaess; bill 
these yield by no means the worst crops. 

Mines.-^Though traces of lead are found in many parts of Si»* 
nart, only the mines of Strontian have been worked. These de* 
serve a more scientific and particular description than can here be 
given. They consist of two veins ; one, termed steel ore, on accouni 
of its hardness and iron grey colour, is said to be rich in silver ; 
but is difficult to smelt, though producing excellent lead. The 
direction of this vein is from south-^ast to north-west, with a slight 
dip to the north. The working or vein is about eight feet wide* 
the wails granite, and an opening havrng been made on the slope 
of the hill in which it is situated, it is entered by a level passage 
through this without a shaft. On the other vein, there are several 
openings or shafts, some of which are 100 fathoms deep. This 
vein is at one spot thirty feet wide ; its bearing a few points more 
to east and west than that of the former, aud its dip slightly to the 
* south. It is crossed from north to south by a whin dike^ nineteen 
feet wide, besides others of less size. The walls are granite or 
gneiss. There are various riders, as the miners term them, of 
quartz, apart from the walls, rising abruptly in the very centre of 
the vein, and splitting into parts for several yards, and terminating 
at once. These are left by the miner, but the blue stone or calc 
spar, in which the galena is imbedded, is totally removed, and the 
ore afterwards separated before smelting. 

II. — Civil History. 
There appears to be no doubt that the entire parish fornaed part 
of the possessions of Somerled, the celebrated Thane or Regulus 
of Argyle, whose mainland conquests, moreover, are supposed, 
with great probability, to have been the dominions of his ances- 
tors. After his death in 1 164, it would seem that the superiority 
of these lands had been wrested, by the efforts of successive ijcot- 
tish Kings, from the descendants of that warlike and able chief. 
At any rate, the first authentic notices of them are grants of Alex- 
ander III. in 12B3, of Ardnamurclian and Maruin to Angus Mar 
of Isla, and of the lordship of Garmoran to Allan MacRuariy 
both heads of powerful houses descended from Somerled. Moi- 
dart, Arasaig, and South Morir, with adjacent districts to the north, 
had by this time been formed into the lordship above-mentioned, 



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AnDVAMURCHAN. 135 

tv'hile it would appear that Ardnamurchan and Sui>art were in- 
cluded in the province of Bngadia or Argyle, an arrangement 
which was retained, when with the extension of the royal authori- 
ty, the whole kingdom was divided into sheriffdoms. According 
to tradition,^ Ardnamurchan was the possession of ^* Muchdragan 
Mac Ri Lochlunn/' a tyrannical and licentious Norwegian Prince, 
who claimed an abominable privilege, against the toleration of 
which in Scotland there is conclusive evidence adduced by Lord 
Hailes, which the following narrative corroborates : A man named 
♦* Evun Cleireach,** " Evun Clerk," the celebrated beauty of whose 
wife had attracted the notice of Muchdragan, having received 
intimation of an intended visit from the latter, well knowing the 
infamous consequences, prepared, by a singularly bold and ingeni- 
ous expedient, to maintain the honour of his family, and avenge the 
insult On the day appointed, be alone met the Lord of Ardna- 
murchan and his retinue, on the northern side^of Benhianda hill, 
at the foot of which he resided, armed solely with his *^ Tuaghairm*' 
or battle axe, and dressed in a cassock or long shirt, sown so loose- 
ly in its different parts as merely to retain its shape. «As they 
rested conversing on different sides of the path, Evun suddenly, by 
a dexterous cast, sunk his battle-axe in the skull of the unsuspect* 
ing Norseman, and fled up a hollow which led to the summit of 
Benheand, pursued by Muchdragan's followers. His loose sown 
robe did him noble service. When near the summit the foremost 
pursuer seized it, but the piece, as was intended, coming away with 
him, he fell back on those immediately behind, and tumbled with 
them down the hill. One or more met the same fate, and Evun, 
though in a state of nudity, escaped to the southern foot of Ben- 
heand where, during the previous night, he had concealed his wife 
and family in a six-oared boat, and plied oars and sails, without 
once casting anchor, until he arrived in Islay. The hollow up 
which Evun ran is still called ** Glac na Coiridb,'^ the hollow of 
the race or pursuit, the hiU itself, '* Bean na hurchrach," the hill 
of the cast or throw. The cairn erected on the spot where the 
Norse leader was slain, is still known under the name of << Carn 
Mhuckdragain,"^ Muchdragan's cairn, and the rock at which Evun 
embarked, under that of ** Sgair cbuV Eilhin," the rock of the nook 
of Evun. Evun having taken refuge with the larl Islach, Lord of 
kla, the latter was induced, by his representations* to send his soq 
John with an armament to take possession of Ardnamurchan ; from 
which John or Ian are descended the clan Ian, so long the pro- 



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136 ARGYLESHIRE. 

prietors of Ardnamurchan and Sunart. History confirms the Oc- 
eupancy of this district by John, the son of Angus Mor, on whom 
tradition bestows the designation of larl or Earl of Islay, as well as 
the fact of the former being the progenitor of the clan Ian of Ardna* 
murchan. The grant of 1283 marks, though not with the preei* 
sion of modem charters, the date of the passing of Ardnamurchan 
into the possession of John of Isla, for that event may have pre- 
ceded, or followed it in times when royal charters were often 
merely the confirmation of rights already assumed, or a means of 
obtaining them along with the more powerful agency of the swofd* 
The somewhat remarkable tradition of a Norse noble being in 
possession about this period, is not invalidated by the fact of the 
predominance of the native race having been completely establish- 
ed on the mainland districts by the valour and talents of Somerled 
about a century previously, or the cession of the kingdom of the 
Isles itself to the. Scottish king in 1366. Ardnamurchan, po* 
jecting so far into the. open sea, was in the direct course of every 
Norse invasion, and the centre of the Norwegian principality of 
the lsle&; and being, moreover, connected with the mainlandooly by a 
narrow isthmus or tarburt, over which boats were not unfrequently 
drawn from sea to sea, — (a circumstance which suggested to Magnus 
Barefoot the stratagem by which the more valuable and extensive 
peninsula of Kintyre was made part of that principality,) may have 
anciently been held as part of the Norwegian territories. At any 
rate, Muchdragan may have held of the king or some great Gaelic 
chief. The district may, therefore, with all probability, be consi- 
dered as the last footing of the once victorious Norwegians on the 
west continent of Scotland, while in the deed of Evun we behoM 
the final blow to the relics of their power. Angus Og, son of An* 
gus Mor above-mentioned, the faithful adherent of Briice^ was con* 
firmed in the possession of the district by that monarch. Of him 
his brother continued to hold the lands, and transmitted them to 
bis descendants, who possessed them as holdings from the Lord of 
the Isles, with their other domains, until the forfeiture of the laU 
ter in 1493^ when the clan Ian became vassals of the crown. 

There seems to be no doubt that the district of Sunart was, from 
the time of their accession to Ardnamurchan, in the posaessioo of 
this family ; its position, in the absence of any documents showing 
it to have been held by any other, warrants the assertion. About 
1493, claims to it were asserted by another branch of the house of 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. 137 

Somerled) at which period the right of M^laoi the actual pos- 
sessor, was established by royal charter. 

The high rank of this family in the Highlands and Isles was 
maintained by no mean share of ability. When James IV. visited 
the Highlands to quell the insurgent nobles of the forfeited lord- 
ship of the Isles, M^Ian, whose castle in Ardnamurchan the King 
bad selected to receive the homage of the island chiefs, displayed 
uncomoaon zeal and intrepidity in support of the authority of the 
Crown, and, singularly enough, against the head of bis own house, 
Sir John of Islay, and Sir Alexander of Lochalsh, the heir of the 
Lord of. the Isles. The first he apprehended in Islay, with his 
three sons, and took to Edinburgh, where they were executed* 
He was concerned in the assassination of the latter. His unscru- 
pulous loyalty procured him high favour and rich rewards from 
the King, but drew upon him the fierce vengeance of the houses 
of Isla and Lochalsh, who, after the death of James IV., united 
their forces, wasted his lands with fire and sword, sacked his castle, 
and slew himself and his two sons in battle, some time before 1519. 

Moriada, his grand*daughter aud heiress, resigned, (it is not 
known for what cause,) with consent or her husband, Robertson of 
Strowan, the superiority of Ardnamurchan and Suinart to Archi- 
bald, Earl of Argyle. For about sixty years thereafter, the heirs- 
male retained possession, in complete independence of the Earl, 
either on the plea of their Crown charters, or, more probably, 
on consuetudinal right and Gaelic rules of succession. 

Feuds, however, arose among the leading men of the clan. 
<< Angus mor mac vie EAn^'* uncle of the chief Donald Cooallach, 
endeavoured to hold possession of Suinart on his own account. 
A reconciliation having apparently been efiected, the latter passed 
through Suinart to visit Allan nan Creach, << Allen the forayer,'* 
Lord of liochiel, to whose daughter he was betrothed ; and on his 
return, with only an ordinary retinue, was laid wait for and foully 
murdered by his savage unde at a pass in the north of Ardnamur* 
chan, still named ** Faothil Dhonuil Chonallaich." It is said that 
Lochiel, on seeing his daughter weep, exclaimed, ^^ For every tear 
you shed, I will give cause for ten." It is certain that Angus Mor 
was soon after met by this chief in Morven, and there was slain by 
an archer in his train, who nailed his hand to his forehead as he 
raised his visor to take a better view of the enemy.* This took 

* The death of thn ferodous warrior* m rehted by ftradition^ was ehanclerittie. 
As be lay dyini^) he requested Loebiel to receive his sword» being unwilling to yield 



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138 ARGYLESHine. 

place ia 1596, and while the elan Ian were tbus weakened by in- 
testine broils, the occasion was seized by Argyle to enforce the 
not forgotten deed of Moriada. A negotiation appears to have 
been commenced, of which it was the basis. The title-deeds of 
the heir of Macvic Eoin came into the possession of Argyle, tra- 
dition says, by his having found them with a burgess of Edinburgh, 
with whom M'^Ian left them as a pledge for a debt incurred in 
educating his son. In 1602, M^Ian became, by a special agree- 
ment, vassal of Argyle, and in a few years it would seem that the 
superior acquired the righto of actual proprietor. The clan were, as 
might be expected from their ignorance of feudal rights, refractory. 
Mr Donald Campbell of Basleriek,afterws^rds Sir Donald of Ardna- 
murchan, a man of uncommon depth of policy and inflexible resolution, 
was appointed by Argyle, his commissioner, to reduce them to obedi- 
ence. Campbell, by a combination of cruelty and insult, soon goaded 
the clansmen to violence, and, in 1624, twenty-two years after 
the contract with Argyle, we find them driven to absolute despe- 
ration, and above 100 of their fighting men, in an English ship 
which they had seized, carrying terror as pirates throughoot the 
north-western coasts of Scotland. The close of their history fol- 
lowed speedily. They fell under the vengeance of Government 
and chiefs whose lands they had plundered, and were either ex- 
tirpated by the sword, or driven mto exile with an unsparing se^ 
verity which left not even their name behind. Sir Donald Camp- 
bell became proprietor of Ardnamurchan, and the race of Ian 
were no more seen in the roll of Highland clans. The lands 
being thus most effectually quieted, they were repeopled by Sir 
Donald with the clan Ian, and clan Henry, or Hendersons of 
Glencoe with their followers, who came in a body to take posses* 
sion of Ardnamurchan, while Sunart appears to have been reple>- 
nished by families of the clan Cameron. If we add to these a 
sept of M'Kenzies, introduced afterwards by Campbell of Loch" 
nell, we have the clans most prevalent to this day in both districts. 
In 1644, the celebrated Alexander McDonald, son of Coll Ci- 
toch, or the left-handed, commander of Montrose's Irish troops, 
landed in Ardnamurchan, ravaged the country with fire and sword,. 

it to one of inferior station. As Lochlel approached, he made a blow at him with 
such force as to cut several ant-hills in its sweep, though it missed LochieL The 
armour in which he died was long retained at Aeham in MorTen. His shield is stilt 
preserved at Laudal in that district An old man in Ardnamurchan, still aHhrt, thou^ 
approaching 100 years, has often seen and put on his mail-shirt» 

4l 



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AKDNAMURCHAN. 139 

and retained possession for a considerable time, though bis garri* 
son in the castle were assailed by one of Argyle's most intrepid 
and able partizans. Sir Donald died * without issue, the lands 
consequently reverted to the stiperior, and came soon afterwards 
into the possession, it is believed by purchase, of Campbell of 
Lochnell. While the estate was in possession of this family, the 
inhabitants suffered no violence from without, but were in a state 
of great internal disorganization, the arm of legal authority being 
weak and ineffectual. In evidence of this, and of the manners of 
the people nearly two centuries ago, two incidents may be worth 
recording. 

The clans located in Ardnamurchan and Sunart felt the tie 
which bound them to the heads of their tribes, little weakened by 
residing on the lands of another proprietor. A widow of the clan 
Cameron having been dispossessed of a farm in Ardnamurchan 
by a tenant belonging to another sept or family of the same clan, 
her husband's brother, a bold and fiery character, applied to his 
chief, Lochiel, for redress ; but failing in this, resolved to effect 
his purpose by open force. With his eldest son, he proceeded 
at once to the residence of the new tenant, who, well knowing 
their object, advanced to meet them with his son, and first fired 
upon the assailants. The elder assailant brought his enemy to 
the ground at the first fire mortally wounded, while the sons en* 
gaged each other with their swords ; but, as be hastily approach- 
ed, bis foot slipped, and be fell forward upon bis prostrated oppo* 
ueut, who received him upon the point of his sword, and, as they 
both lay in their blood, said, with a mixture of feelings it is difii-^ 
cult to analyze, ^' Here are two gallant falcons on one spit.'* 
The son of the assailant alone survived, having slain bis antago- 
nist, and the affair ended by the re-instalment of the widow in her 
farm, which remained in lineal possession of her descendants until 
about six or seven years ago. At this time, it is singular that a 
direct descendant of the other party in the tragedy above-men- 
tioned, managed to obtain possession, and that the occupancy of 
the farm, though decided as such cases now a-days usually are, 
was contested by the parties, chiefly from motives connected with 
the feud of their ancestors, affording a solitary instance, in so 
peaceful a district, of the cherished remembrance of such ancient 
quarrels, embittering the intercourse of private life. 

* There is a portrait of Sir Donald at Airds, the mansion of the inheritor of his 
title and estate*. Sir Jobn Campbell of Ardnamurofaan. 



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140 ARGYLBSHIRE. 

Maclan Ghier^ a notorious thief and robber, resided in Ard* 
liamurehaii. Of bis crafty and nefarious exploits, many stories 
are still told. He stole in one night the cattle of the neighbour- 
ing Isle of Muck, and shot to death the proprietor, a brave and 
strong man, while defending his property. He is said to bafe 
been tried for the crime, and escaped the gallows by the evidence 
of Sir Duncan Campbell of Lochnell, whom he had prepared as 
the unconscious instrument of his exculpation. Sir Duncan swore 
that Maclan Gheir, whose manners were remarkably mild and 
insinuating, was, on the night in question, in Mingary Castk, 
and, at the time, he fell asleep at his bed-side, relating a '^ sqeu? 
lachd'' or tale, and that when he awoke in the morning he was 
there also, when he resumed the thread of the story. This de- 
position was perfectly true, but the deponent was not aware that, 
during the interval, the robbery and murder had been committed, 
a fact not impossible. 

In the beginning of the last century, Ardnamurchan and Sunart 
appear to have come into the possession of Sir Alexander Mur- 
ray of Stanhope, Bart, an extraordinary man, whose sagacity 
readily discovered the chief points of civil and industrial improve- 
ment of which these lands were susceptible ; but whose over*specula- 
tiveand sanguine temperament, transgressing the bounds of sobriety 
and sound sense, rendered his efforts abortive, and were probably 
the cause of his pecuniary embarrassments. By him the vegetable 
and mineral resources of the estate were thoroughly investigated ; 
a minute census of the population and account of the stock taken, 
and preserved in a curious document yet extant; the estate itself 
was subjected to an accurate survey, a chart of Looh Sunart, pub- 
lished by a Lieutenant Bruce, to which notes were appended, evi- 
dently from the pen of Sir Alexander Murray, and plans of har- 
bours and other improvements prepared by the latter. A system 
of draining and irrigation was commenced upon an immense scale, 
of which some useful traces are yet visible ; and the lead mines of 
Strontian were let by him to the York Building Company. These 
mines are well understood to have been worked at a far earlier pe- 
riod, though said by Sir Alexander to have been discovered by 
himself in 1722, and held forth to the public as ** the most won- 
derful discovery of the age." But it is certain that, through his 
instrumentality, operations commenced with great spirit, and on a 
large scale. An English mining settlement, which employed 500 
individuals, was established with all its accessories of buildings, ma- 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. i^i 

chinery, and roads. A village was built, and named New York, 
after the custom of settlers in other remote colonies; and many of the 
arts of peace, hitherto unknown, were introduced among the war- 
like Highlanders* Of all this Sir Alexander Murray had just rea- 
son to feel proud. These mines continued, until about twenty years 
ago, the source of considerable reyenue to the proprietor and the 
company, and of profitable industry to numerous families employ- 
ed by the proprietor until within a few years back, notwithstanding 
chat the ploughshare has long ago obliterated every vestige of 
New York, and the English workmen, unless we except a few of 
their descendants (undisdnguishable except by their Saxon names,) 
supplanted by hardy and industrious natives. Sir Alexander and 
some of his tenants were much harassed by the destruction of their 
eattle, and other annoyances,— a fact accounted for by his zealous 
loyalty to the reigning family* 

In 1715 and 1745, many of the inhabitants of these districts join- 
ed in the insurrections of these periods. On the suppression of 
the last, a ship of war came to lay waste the country, but the mi- 
Bister and factor succeeded, by their representations, in saving the 
inhabitants from the indiscriminate cruelties to which the High- 
landers were at the time subjected. The abolition of heri- 
table jurisdictions at this era does not appear, for some time, to 
have been followed by the better protection of the national laws 
and functionaries. Depredations on cattle were frequent in Ard- 
namurchan and Sunart, the robbers coming principally from dis- 
tricts farther inland. This chiefly arose from the exile and death 
of so many chiefe and gentlemen, who (clan feuds and forays hav- 
ing ceased long before) were the natural and most influential ma- 
gistracy. Themass of the people, however, were, even at this period, 
orderly and docile, to a certain extent industrious, and under the 
influence of their religious instructors ; and the depredators, who 
were never numerous, either died, or soon found that the age of 
their vocation had gone. 

The Inverness-shire districts of the parish appear to have re- 
mained in' the possession of the family of Allan •'Mac Ruari, until 
1987, when they came to be inherited by Amie, the sister of the 
last heir-male* This lady married John of Islay, Lord of the 
Isles, and by this union the race of Somerled was continued in the 
male as well as female line. From Ranald, the son of this John, 
are descended the Clanranald, a bold and resolute clan, who maia^ 
tained, in. many fierce conflicts, tlieir Celtic privileges, and the 



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U2 AUGYLBSHIflE. 

honour of their high descent By them was fought at Loch 
Lochy the celebrated battle of Blar Leine, in which Ranald the 
stranger, the legal heir, but repudiated by the tribe, was slain, and 
his brother, Ian Muidartach, established in his place. In the pos- 
session of the descendants of the last, the whole lands, with the 
exception of a few small portions, remained, until not many years 
ago, when the estates of Moidart and Arasaig were sold by the 
present chief, Ranald George MacDonald of Clanranald. Still 
extensive tracts remain in possession of cadets of that house« In 
1715, the inhabitants of this part of the parish followed their 
chief in the insurrection of that year. His death, at the battle of 
Sheriffmuir, is honourably recorded in Sir Walter Scott*s Tales 
of a Grandfather. AH that is known of this chieftain attaches a 
romantic interest to his character. He is said to have been train* 
ed to arms in the wars of the continent, and once that he lay 
wounded on a field of battle, to have been conveyed thence, and 
carefully attended, until his recovery, by an Italian lady, named 
Penelope, whom he afterwards married, and who accompanied him 
to Moidart. That he was a disinterested, zealous, and gallant ad* 
herent of the Stuart femily, is unquestionable. He stormed and 
retook his castle of Eilein Terim from the troops of the Govern- 
ment, and, rather than it should prove of use to the enemy in sub- 
jugating the country, this ancient stronghold of his race was, by 
his orders, destroyed by fire. The warlike character of the people, 
their well-known attachment to his family, and the almost inacces- 
sible nature of their country, probably induced Prince Charles Ed- 
ward to select it for the commencement of the insurrection whith 
excited such terrific interest in 1745 and 1746. This selection, 
whatever may be thought of the prudence of the undertaking it- 
self, was made with judgment. In truth, the very local scenery 
was appropriate* In the dusky recesses of these mountains, the 
footsteps of the arming clans were unheard ; their mustering un* 
noted. Glenfinnan, where, in a few days after his landing, Charles 
gave his banner to the winds, was of all places the best fitted for 
the purpose. It is a plain at the east end of Lochshiel; encircled 
by rugged mountains. Upon this plain, a<) on a common centre, 
open the mouths of several wild and shadowy glens, through which 
the first squadrons of the Highland army marched to the ren- 
dezvous* Through these glens also, notice of the event was trans- 
mitted to all the tribes of the north ; and those whom prudence 
might yet cause to linger, roused to arms by the stirring announce^ 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. 143 

ment. After the discomfiture of the Highland army at Culloden^ 
these districts were laid waste with fire and sword, and subjected 
to the fullest measure of the vengeance which, although per- 
petrated by the army of civilized Britain, rivalled the savage 
cruelty of the most barbarous age. The only remission was ex- 
perienced by the families of some unfortunate gentlemen, through 
the generous exertions and influence of Campbell of Airds, the 
inheritor of the estates, but neither of the unrelenting disposition 
Dor crooked policy, nor of any of the darker features of character 
.of Sir Donald of Ardnamurchan. 

In all probability, the Reformed religion was introduced into 
the parish, under the protection of the noble family of Argyle, 
whose services to the Protestant faith, and enlightened patriotism, 
far more than counterbalance, though they do not, in any shape, 
palliate their share in the unscrupulous and cruel policy of times of 
confusion and turbulence. In 1639, the record of the synod of 
Argyle begins. In that year we find a minister of the Church of 
Scotland, already established in Ardnamurchan. The Reforma- 
tion, so far as regards the eradication of Popery, was successful in 
Ardnamurchan and Sunart, the districts under Argyle influence. 
One clergyman, however, was all wi^h which the Church of Scot- 
land could supply a parish, where there are twelve places of wor- 
ship. After the final settlement of the Church in 1688, there 
were, in consequence of the extreme paucity of Gaelic preachers, 
long vacancies in the parish, supplied only by occasional deputa- 
tions from the ministers of Lorn and Argyle. Protestant Episco% 
pacy seems to have prevailed for some time before and after the 
Revolution, a minister of that persuasion being stationed in Ard- 
namurchan ; but the members of that sect seem, with few excep- 
tions, soon to have merged in the establishment. By the appoint- 
ment of missionaries on the Royal Bounty, the means of religious 
instruction received a powerful addition, but still the districts in 
Inverness-shire were left; under the care of one assistant minister ; 
and even on the erection of the churches lately built and endowed 
by Government, only a small part comparatively of that wide por- 
tion of the parish could, without undue extension of the bounds of 
the adjoining Government minister, be attached to his church. 
It is, therefore, more matter for wonder, that the parishioners in 
Argyleshire should, from the period of their first conversion, (not- 
withstanding the strenuous and elsewhere successful efforts of the 
Romish priests, continued until the latter part of the last century-, 



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.144 ARGYLESHIRE. 

have been retained in the possession of Protestantism) than that 
the light of the Reformation should not have been extended to 
those in Inverness-shira In that rugged and secluded quarter 
some influential families of old descent, and the whole of the abo- 
riginal inhabitants, are Roman Catholics; of the Protestants^ who 
amount only to a sixth part of the population, very few beads of 
families have been born there* 

There are no maps or plans of the whole parish, but it is believ- 
ed, all the landed proprietors have plans of their estates. In the 
possession of Sir James Milles Riddell» there is a curious collec- 
tion of the works of Sir Alexander Murray of Stanhope, entitled 
^' The true interest of Great Britain displayed," in which there 
are maps, plans, and statements illustrative of the statistics of his 
estate in the parish. In the possession of the same gentleman 
there is also a ^^ plan of Loch Sunart," with a map of Ardna- 
rourchan and Sunart, published by Alexander Bruce in 1733, d^ 
dicated to General Wade, Commander-in-Chief in Scotland; also 
in possession of Mr Campbell of Lerax, near Oban, ^^ The Ana- 
tomy of Ardnamurchan and Sunart," the result of a minute sur- 
vey of these districts taken by Sir Alexander Murray. To these 
two last allusion has already been made. The parochial regis- 
ters extend not back beyond fifty years, and are very defective, be- 
ing irregularly kept, and referring only to portions of the parish* 

Eminent Persons. — The personages connected with the parish 
renowned in Highland chivalry are numerous. Characters dis- 
tinguished by civil eminence are few. Among the hitter, Sir 
Alexander Murray, for his activity and eccentric intelligence, is 
remarkable. Alexander McDonald, or, as he is generally desig- 
nated, ^^ Alaster MacMhaighistin Alaster," from his father, Epi&- 
copal minister of Ardnamurchan, was a native of that district, and 
in the year 1745 parochial schoolmaster and elder of that parish, 
when he embraced the Romish religion, and took arms for the 
Prince. He was a celebrated bard, and left behind him poems of 
exquisite beauty. He has been justly reprehended for the inde- 
cency of some of his productions, but it is due to his memory to 
state, that, for these in his latter days, he was deeply penitent 
Dr Donald Mac Lean, M. D., was also born in Ardnamurchan, 
where he long resided. He inherited from his father, a worthy 
and much respected individual, and an extraordinary humorist and 
wit, no small share of his peculiarities, and was a man of talent 
and information, particularly distinguished by his knowledge of 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. 146 

Highland antiquities. He wrote for the London Literary Gazette 
gome li^ht and amusing sketches of Highland superstitions, 
and was also the author of a treatise on diseases of the nerves. 
Constantly occupied with schemes for the public benefit, some of. 
which he communicated to Government, and for one of which, at 
least, he received the thanks of the late Duke of York, he ne«* 
glected, as too often happens with such persons, his private aflFairs, 
ond at last fell a victim to the use of opium. His humanity hav- 
ing never been appealed to in vain by the poor of the western part 
of Ardnamurchan, where he resided, and his professional skill and 
time always at their disposal ; the inhabitants gratefully contri«- 
buted to his comfort, when an inmate of a lunatic asylum. 

Antiquities. — Of these the most curious are, the vitrified forts, 
of which there are several, the largest and most remarkable being 
situated in Eilein nan Gobhar, in Lochaylort. On this islet, an 
abrupt and irregular mass of fine mica-slate, are two works of this 
description, within a few yards of each other, one of an oblong fi* 
gure, 140 paces in circumference, the other 90 paces and circu« 
lar. The walls which, in some parts, are seven or eight feet high, 
are composed of stones of various sizes heaped confusedly, and ce- 
mented by vitrified matter, nowhere solid or compact At the en- 
trance to the largest, there are the remains of a facing of com- 
mon stone imbedded in cement, which probably extended, at 
one time, all round the fort. Within, the area is not level, but 
a deep hollow like an inverted cone, and strongly resembling the 
extinct crater of a volcano.* 

The Castle of Mingary, the ancient hold of Mac Ian, is $itu«- 
ated on the southern shore of Ardnamurchan, about five or six 
miles from the point. Its shape is rather irregular, being adapted 
to the site ; it is broadest on the land side, on which it is protect- 
ed by a foss, over which there was once a drawbridge, and narrow- 
est towards the sea which it overhangs. On this side the rock 
has been scarped and rendered perpendicular. There is an en- 
trance on the north or land side across the west end of the ditch, 
and another on the south, communicating with the sea by a narrow 
exposed stair hewn out of the rock. On the top, there is a ram- 
part with embrasures all round, and several loop holes in the lower 
parts of the building. The interior consists of a large house of 

* It is a fact which the writer has seen exemplified, that common sod subjected to 
strong beat fuses into a sulxtance similar to the cement of Titrtfied forts. This be> 
ing much more easily effected than the fusion of stone. eorrotx)rates the generally 
I eceived opinion, that these works were buildings of the ancient inhabitants. 
ABGYLE. * K 



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146 ARGTLBSBiaE. 

three stories in the modern style, the broadest part of the old wall 
forming the back, with other buildings on the other sides, an open 
space or court being left in the centre. These were erected, it is 
said, by Campbell of Lochnell, more than a century and a*balf 
ago. The floors, rafters, and boards of the roof are all of mas- 
sive oak, the slates of an extraordinary size, fastened by oaken pins. 
When or by whom this castle was built is unknown. In 1493^ 
James IV. granted a charter from this castle, and in 1495, again 
held his court to receive the submission of the nobles of the for- 
feited lordship of the isles. It is supposed by Gregory to have 
been razed to the ground by Sir Donald of Lochalsh in 1517 ; 
but it is most probable that the greater portion of the outer wall, 
which is of great strength, thickness, and apparent antiquity, was 
left standing on that occasion. In 1588, it was besieged for three 
days by Sir Lachlan Maclean of Duart, one of the most daring 
warriors and ablest leaders of the Highlands, aided by 1(H) 
soldiers of the Florida, a ship of the Spanish Armada, which had 
taken shelter in the adjoining harbour of Tobermory. The 
siege was raised in consequence of the approach of the northern 
clans under the orders of Government. In 1644, the garrison 
of Sir Donald Campbell in this castle were forced to surrender to 
Montrose's general, Alaster Macdonald, by the simple expedient 
of piling the thatch and timber of all the houses in the vicinity 
against the walls and setting them on fire. On this occasion, un- 
wonted guests were brought to this rude hold. Un bis way thither, 
Alaster had captured the vessel in which three Scottish ministers, 
who had been preaching the gospel and spreading the covenant 
in Ireland, were returning to their native country, Messrs Weir, 
Hamilton, and Watson, whom, with the wife of the first, and several 
other respectable passengers, he, on the 15th July, imi>risoned in 
Mingary Castle. Here they seem to have been destitute of all 
comfort but the consolations of religion. Their sufferings were 
terribly aggravated by an unsuccessful attempt of the Marquis of 
Argyle to liberate them. During seven weeks' leaguer by his troops, 
their food was rye bruised between stones, and the green muddy 
water collected on the bartizans of the castle. On the 8d of Sep- 
tember, Mrs Weir was liberated, and on the 23d, all the captives, 
except the three ministers, who were kept close, by Alaster's or- 
ders, with the view of exchanging them for his father and two 
brothers, then prisoners with Argyle. Mr Weir's constitution soon 
gave way under the pressure of hopeless captivity and deficient 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. 147 

accommodation, and on the 16th October, this eminently pious 
and zealous man ^< died in great peace and joy.*" ^< Mr Hamilton 
and his father-in*law, Mr Watson, spent a gloomy winter in that 
secluded and cheerless castle. Mr Watson sunk under his suffer- 
ings and died in the month of March following ; but Mr Hamil- 
ton was graciously preserved until, after many efforts on the part of 
the General Assembly and the Scottish parliament to procure the 
release of this esteemed minister, he was at length, by an exchange 
of prisoners, liberated on the 8d May 1645, after an imprison- 
ment often months." (Orthodox Presbyterian, July 1837.) 

Castle Tirom, the castle of the Clanranald, a building^ 130 
yards in circumference, in shape adapted to the rock on which it 
is built, is situated on an islet in Loch Moidart, named Eilien Ti- 
rom or dry island, being connected with the mainland by a nar- 
row neck, overflowed only at high water. Its tall battlements or 
turrets, with the surrounding scenery, give it an imposing appear- 
ance. Being nev^er repaired since burnt by Clanranald about 
1715, it is a total ruin, only the exterior walls and a few vaulted 
chambers within now remaining. There is a tradition that the 
troops of Cromwell penetrated io this remote fortalice and held it 
for a time. 

At Ormsaig mor in Ardnamurchan, there are some large stones 
so placed as to resemble a rude altar, round which a circle of 
smaller stones may be traced. It is called ^^ Griadal Fhinn," 
FingaPs Griddle. . There are also in different parts a few rude 
obelisks or upright stones, and stone coffins have been found con- 
taining, as usual, coarse earthen urns. At Ormsaig beg there are 
the remains of a very small tower, dignified by the name of ** Cas- 
ual due nan Clior,'' the black Castle of the Minstrels. 

Of ancient places of worship there are numerous vestiges. At 
these, the inhabitants still continue to bury their dead. At Eilien 
Finnan in Lochshiel, the walls of the ancient parish church, dedi- 
cated to that saint, are still standing. It appears to have been a 
small rude edifice, rudeness remarkably characterizing the tombs 
of the common people around. A very sweet-toned, angular, an- 
tique hand bell remains on its stone table or altar; and until with^ 
in a few years since, the alleged skull of the warrior who slew 
Ranald the stranger at Blarliene, by stratagem, marked by deep 
dints from the sword of Ranald, to whom tradition attributes un- 
mastered prowess. At Ardnafuaran in Arasaig, the church of KiU 
maria, dedicated to the virgin Mary, also the church of a parish 



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148 AUOVLESHIRE. 

before the Reformation, still remains though ruinous. It is of 
much more recent date, and larger size than that of Finnan* 

Modem Buildings. — Of these, Arasaig House is the most costly 
and elegant. It is a handsome mansion-house, built by the pre- 
sent chief of Clanranald, of polished freestone, a material import- 
ed at great expense, with interior accommodations beBtting the 
seat of a distinguished family. The present parish church is 
a durable and well constructed edifice, built after a plan by Mr 
Burn of Edinburgh. The stone chiefly used was a micaceous rock, 
brought by sea from primitive rocks about tweWe miles to the 
eastward, — the buttresses, belfry, and sides of windows are of free> 
stone from Glasgow. The farm offices of Drimantorran, near 
Strontian, are worthy of notice for their extent, and admirable 
adaptation to their purpose. The residences of the proprietors 
are generally plain comfortable buildings suited to the climate, 
the more recently erected showing a due regard to ornament 

At Glenfinnon, a tower with apartments attached was erected 
by the late amiable and much lamented Alexander MacDonald of 
Glenaladale, in commemoration of the event which took place 
there in 1745. The inscription, which he did not live to see 
placed, was written by Dr Donald Maclean, already alluded to, 
highly approved by the late Sir Walter Scott, and translated into 
Latin by the late celebrated Dr Gregory of Edinburgh. The re- 
lative and successor of Glenaladale, Angus MacDonald, Esq. has 
of late improved this monument, having removed the buildings . 
annexed, so that the tower stands singly on the plain, and erected 
on the summit a statue of the Prince, to whom the gentlemen of 
his family were ardent adherents from the day of his landing, 
and not more in the hour of his fleeting triumphs than when a 
hunted wanderer in the caves of Arasaig and wilds of Moidart 

III. — Population. 

The population of the Argyleshire districts, as taken by Sir 
'Alexander Murray in 1723, amounted to 278 families, — 408 men, 
444 women, 600 children ; total, 1855. 

In 1 795, according to the last Statistical Account, they amount- 
ed to 470 families,— 1218 males, 1384 females; toUl, 2552. 
Families, numbering 124 individual members, emigrated to Ame* 
rica in 1790 and 1791. Since then, individuals and single fami* 
lies have been constantly emigrating to the low country or the co* 
Innies. In 1837 and 1838» not less than twenty families left 
Ardnamurchan and Suaart chiefly for Australia. Allowing the 
Inverness-shire districts the same proportion as Ardnamurchan 



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AttDNAMURCHAN. 



149 



and Sunart Id 17*23, the population would have been 1056 souls. 
Families, to the number of 572 individuals, emigrated to America 
in 1790 and 1791. Yet the last Statistical Account gives a po- 
pulation of 375 families, — 908 males, 1082 females; total, 1990. 
About five years ago, thirteen families, amounting to about 70 
individuals, emigrated to Canada. In 1837 and 1838, families, 
amounting to about 100 individuals, sailed for Australia. 

The whole population is rural ; there is not even an approach 
to a village^ except at Ardnafuaran, in Arasaig. 

The yearly average of births, for the last seren years, taken from the paroobial re- 
gisters in the Argylesbire or Protestant districts, b . 90f 
Yearly average for da of deaths, ... 44 
Da marriages, .-1^ 
The number of persons under 15 years of age, in the Argylesbire distrieu, no 

return being procured from the other districts, . 1858 

Number of persons betwixt 15 and 90, . 834 

dOandSO, 614 

50 and 70, . .388 

above 70, ... 122 

The number of families of independent fortune residing in the 
parish is nine ; of these, only one, viz. the sole proprietor, re- 
sides in Argylesbire. The number of proprietors of land of 
the yearly value above L.50, is ten. All are considerably above^ 
none under that value. 

The number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50, in the 

Argylesbire dutricts, • . .64 

Number of unmarried women upwards of 45, 104 
men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50, in the 

Inverness-shire districts, . 37 

Number of unmarried women upwards of 45 in do. • 184 

The average number of children in each family is . • ^ 

The number of insane in the Argylesbire diatriets, 5 

fittuous in Do. 7 

blind in Do. 3 

deaf and dumb in Do. . 5 

The number of insane in the Inverness-shire districts, 3 

fatuous in Do. . 2 

blind in Da . . 5 

deaf and dumb in Do. . 6 

IV. — Industry. 
No reports of the surveys of the Inverness districts could be 
procured ; but the following is the result of a survey of Ardna- 
murchan and Sunart, obtained from the proprietor. The acres 
are Scotch : — 



CulUvated, or only occa«onally in ( At.We by U.e plough, 

P-^*- (Pasture, .• * 

Moss flats, . 
Moor, 

Planting, . 
Lochs, 

Total, 



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150 ARGYLRSHIRB. 

It is supposed, by an iqtelligent gentlemap intimately acquainted 
yfiih the parish, that the arable land might be doubled with a pro- 
fitable application of capital. 

No estimate could be procured of the land under natural wood* 
The common indigenous trees are oak, birch, hazel, saucb, ash, 
and alder. Planted, the various kinds of firs, planetree, oak, and 
ash. Both plantations and woods appear ta be well managed, 
though, by several modes, sometimes the young wood is enclosed 
for seven or ten years, the tenant receiving an allowance for the 
loss of the pasture enclosed, which, being always wintering, is very 
considerable. In other c^ses, cattle are estcluded from the woods 
for fifteen or twenty years, and the woodlands then only pastured 
lightly, while, in others, the woodlands are enclosed permanently 
and never pastured at all. The last method is most subservient 
to appearance, that first mentioned to profit ; for, when profit is 
the object^ the sacrifice of so much low land, where wintering is 
so much wanted, is thought bad management The woods are 
thinned periodically. The oak, from the value of its bark, is held 
in most esteem, 

' There is no arable land let separately. Some would estimate 
the proportion of rent applicable to it at L.1, 5s. to L.1, 10s. per 
acre, others at 10s. to 15s. Probably 15s. per acre may approach 
nearest the truth. 

The value of grazings varies according to the nature of the 
soil, situation, and other circumstances, some farms being consi- 
dered fairly rented at the rate of 1^2, 10s. per head of black- 
cattle, and ds. 6d. per sheep yearly, while others are not consi- 
dered profitable at L 1, 10s. for black-cattle, and Is. 6d. for 
sheep. The average rent over the parish is estimated at L.1, 15s. 
per head of black-cattle three years old and upwards, L.1 under 
that age, and fiill-grown sheep, 3sr 6d. 

Sheep and Black-Cattle, — The former are the black-faced, the 
latter chiefly the Argyleshire breed. Considerable improvement 
has been made on the breed of sheep by means of tups from the 
south ; but, it is believed, the sheep stock generally can never, 
owing to the poverty and thinness of the soil, and consequent in- 
feriority of pasture, be made equal to that of some neighbouring 
parishes. A great part of the land is better adapted for black- 
cattle, consequently a great number are kept, and fully more at- 
tention has been paid to their improvement than to that of the 
sheep. 

With regard to the management of stock and the cultivation of 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. 151 

the ground, there is much diversity, in some cases arising from 
the nature of the country, in others, from the circumstances of the 
occupants. In some parts of Ardnamurchan and Moidart, there 
is neither horse nor plough, — the rocky and broken surface pre- 
cluding either. The sharp-pointed spade only is used in turning 
up the soil, and every article, even the sea-ware and other ma- 
nure, carried on the back in creels suited to the age and strength 
of the members of each family. These are by no mean& the 
most destitute of the class of small tenants and cottars. 

In other farms, where the ground is more level, the number of 
horses appears to be extravagant, seven or eight being kept for la- 
bour, which three, if not two, tolerable plough or cart horses could 
accomplish. They are, however, hardy horses or ponies, of 12 or 
13 hands, which are, at all seasons, in the open air, and are sub- 
sbted at not more expense than the smallest number of stable- fed 
work-horses o/ the country, which could be substituted. 

Sometimes land on the steep sides of hills is seen diligently cul- 
tivated by the small tenants, which certainly no capitalist, from 
motives of profit, would crop ; while elsewhere land easily and pro- 
fitably improvable is left waste* In the one case, this arises from 
the crowded state of the population in localities not naturally 
adapted for agriculture, and the necessity, in the absence of bet- 
ter employment, of raising some crop at any rate ; in the other, 
not from any paucity of labour, but from inability to wait for the 
profits of the undertaking if they attempted it, and insufficient as- 
surance of reaping the profits if they did. When the extent of 
their lands admits of it, small tenants, commonly after potatoes, 
sow their land with bear, and then oats, — the soil, after being well 
manured for the first, producing very good bear, and rather infe- 
rior oats, which last, however, constitutes the best provender for 
cattle. When their land is not of sufficient extent to raise the 
three crops above-mentioned, they are compelled, in order to ob- 
tain a greater quantity of food, to confine themselves chiefly to 
potatoes. 

The stock, especially the sheep-stock of this class, is of an ex- 
ceedingly inferior description, and very ill managed. This, so far 
as their poverty permits, they are endeavouring to remedy, as yet 
without much success. In the cultivation of the ground, however, 
they have, in some parts, advanced considerably. 

Ten years ago, there was not one cart in the possession of the 
small tenants in the district of Ardnamurchan, and, in some parts, 



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152 AKGYLESHIRIS. 

four horses, with a man at their heads walking backwards, after 
the ancient fashion, might be seen in the plough. Now, carts are 
not uncommon, several good iron ploughs are in use, additional 
manure is made, and crops are more abundant With all their 
disadvantages, the small tenants have hitherto paid to the full as 
high rents as the large farmers, — the money being procured by 
the joint exertions of the different members of their families* 

On the lands farmed by the proprietors, or let to large tenants 
or tacksmen, the system of management, both as respects tillage 
and stock, is far better ; in some cases, as good as in any part of 
Scotland. With some exceptions, the farm-buildings and enclo- 
sures are d^ective, those of the small tenants miserable. Leases 
run from seven to nineteen years. 

The principal improvements have of late years taken place on 
the estate of Ardnamurchan and Sunart; not to mention two Gh>- 
vemment churches which have been built on this property, to 
which the proprietor has given glebes of six acres each; also 
three Assembly schools, to which he has given crofts, and on the 
accommodations of which he has expended L. 870, — a good deal 
has been done in reclaiming waste land, building, enclosing, and 
other agricultural improvements. At Drimantarran on this pro- 
perty, Mr McDonald, the late enterprising tenant (who contributed 
most of the facts under this head, and thie estimate to be given of 
the gross returns of the parish,) has brought into cultivation and 
enclosed 25 to 30 acres of moss, varying from three to nine feet 
depth. The land was drained, trenched, and limed, at L.13, 5s. 
per English acre, manured with sea-ware, and fenced at an ex- 
pense not included in the above sum ; and being planted with po- 
tatoes, yielded twenty returns. Towards this the proprietor con- 
tributed L. 5 per acre, and half the expense of the stone fences. 
Two piers were, a few years ago, erected by the British Herring 
Fishery Society, one-third of the expense being contributed by 
Sir James Milles Riddell, and the whole of an excellent road 
through th6 moss of Kintra, by which both are connected. One 
of the piers is of some use. The road, already beneficial, bids 
fair to be still more so to the property. The piers being situated 
on the north and south shores of a neck separating Loch Sunart 
and the bay of Kintra, it was lancied that, as the point of Ardna- 
murchan would thereby be avoided, the intercourse betwixt the 
northern isles and the south would be drawn to this line of com- 
munication. About thirty English acres of moss have been In^ught 



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ABDNAMURCHAN. 153 

into an excellent state of cultivation by Mr McDonald of Loch- 
shiel, close by bis residence, at an expense of L.ld per acre; and 
also a considerable extent by General Sir Alexander Cameron of 
Inveraylort. These essays have not been made on the moss the 
best subject for improvement. The greater part of the improv- 
able lands of this description might probably be reclaimed at 
L. 10 or L» 12 per acre* The obstacle to these improvements, 
and the gradual advancement of agriculture and industry gene- 
rally, is chiefly the want of capital. The high rent of land, how- 
ever, renders any expensive undertaking on the part of the tenant 
generally imprudenL To these may be added the injudicious 
distribution of the bulk of the people ; the want of leases on the 
part of the small tenants ; their holding their lanifs in common 
and not in separate lots ; their constant practice of sharing their 
possessions with the married members of their families, to which 
no practical check has yet been given ; the consequent inadequacy 
of the land held by each family for its support; and the miscel- 
laneous nature of the employments by which they eke out a sub^ 
sistence. Dye-works aiid other manufactories, in or near Glas- 
gow, afford as uncongenial employment as could well be imagined 
with the habits of a rural population ; yet on these great numbers 
of the small tenants and cottars, and the members of their families, 
of the district of Ardnamurchan, find their most profitable occu- 
pation ; while the inhabitants of other parts engage in various and 
far-sought employments. This state of matters tends certainly to 
develope the beautiful moral spectacle of the combined efforts of 
relatives cheerfully devoted to the support of their kindred and 
family, but drains away the earnings which would otherwise accu- 
mulate and form little capitals, at the same time that the commix- 
ture of employments prevents the formation of habits of steady 
industry, with the advantages resulting from the constant prosecu- 
tion of a single branch and a permanent residence. 

The remedy seems evidently to lie in such measures as shall 
promote a proper subdivision of labour, such as the enlargement 
of the possessions of small tenants to an extent that will require 
and repay their undivided attention ; the total abrogation of hold- 
ings in common ; the absolute prohibition of farther subdivision 
among their families. To effect this, either such an accession of 
capital to the parish as should sufiice to call forth its latent re- 
sources ; or, as that cannot be calculated on, the emigration at 
the expense of Government of such as have no sufficient employ- 



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154 ARGYLE8H1KE. 

ment at borne, is absolutely necessary. Much may also be done 
by leases, which will insure to enterprise and industry the fruits 
of exertion ; and the improvement of stock by premiums and otber- 
wise« Neither, with the view simply to industrial improvement, 
can more powerful remedies be applied than the increase of the 
means of religious instruction and education* 

Quarries and Mtnes.-^The only quarries worked are those of 
Laga and Strontian. From the former, a fine micacious rock, 
very abundant in the parish, has been carried by sea fully fifty 
miles' distance, to erect piers at Corran ferry on the Linne Hiloch ; 
and from the latter, excellent granite, which has long been used 
by the proprietor, has been conveyed to erect the mansion-house 
of Mr McLean of Coll, near Tobermory, twenty miles distant. 
The lead mines of Strontian, already adverted to, were let previ- 
ous to 1722 to the Duke of Norfolk and Co, About this time 
they were transferred to the York Building Company, and have 
been worked ever since until the conclusion of the last war, when, 
either owing to the fall of the price of lead, or, as some say, the 
withdrawal from busmess of the members of the Company which 
then held them, the work was discontinued. Since then, the 
miners have been occasionally set at work by the proprietor, but 
chiefly with a view to their own subsistence. In 1836, they were 
again let, and operations seemed for some time to be carried on 
with spirit ; but, either from want of capital on the part of the 
lessee, or the unproductiveness of the mines, the attempt miscar- 
ried. The rent paid before the termination of the war was one- 
eighth of the produce, which paid the proprietor L.1000 to L.ldOO 
per annum. , 

Fisheries, — The only salmon fishing worth notice is that of the 
river Shiel, belonging to Sir James Milles Riddell and Alexander 
MacDonald, Esq. of Lochshiel, whose properties the river divides. 
The annual rent is L. 150. Loch Sunart once abounded with 
herring, but for twenty years back, few have been caught there. 
In Loch-nan- Uamh in Arasaig, and Loch Moidart, considerable 
quantities of that fish have been netted of late years. The fish- 
eries of cod and ling, and other fishes caught by the hook, on the 
north coasts of the parish, promise, at some future period, to prove 
a plentiful source of industry. They are, however, at present 
merely in their infancy as branches of traffic, though considerable 
quantities of such fishes are obtained by the inhabitants as food 
for their familiesr 



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ADNAMURGHAN. 155 

Navigation. — There are only two decked vessels, one about 60, 
the other about 20 tons burden ; ten or twelve sailing boats, va- 
rying from 3 to 8 tons ; and innumerable row boats, almost every 
family possessing one. 

Agricultural Association. — An Association for the improvement 
of horses, black-cattle, and sheep, in Ardnamurchan and Sunart, 
and some contiguous districts in Argyleshire, meets annually at 
Strontian, of which Sir James Milles Riddell is preses, and which 
has had much success in promoting its object* 

Produce. — Annual gross return of raw produce, the prices cal- 
culated according to the average of the last twenty-five years pre* 
vious to 18da 

Value pertain- 
ing to Ardaa- Value pertoin- ^ ^ 
murchan and mgtoMoidart, 
Sunart Araiaig, &c. 



I2/)00stoneawooUof241b.® 88.pcr8t 2,000 2,800 4.800 

2^ bolls oats, @ L.1 . 1,900 700 2.000 

700 bolls bear, @L. 1,108. . 750 dOO 1,050 

50,000 barrels potatoes, @ 88. . 5.250 2,250 7,500 

60,000 stones of hay, @10d. 1,666 13 4 838 6 8 2.500 

Pasture of 60,000 8beep,@2BL6d. 8,125 4,875 7,500 

Do. of()000black.catUe,@L.l, lOs. 6,0<K) 8,000 9,000 

Gardens and orchards, 5000 150 0020000 

Woods and plantations, 500 500 1,000 

Fisheries, including herrings, 150 00 150 00 80000 

Mines at present exdnct, 1,500 1,500 

Kelp, 400 2,600 8,000 

Toul, L.22.091 18 4 17,656 6 8 40,850 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Market-Tvwn. — The nearest market-town is the village and 
sea-port of Tobermory, in Mull, about five miles south from the 
harbour of Kilchoan, in Ardnamurchan, and with which there is 
much communication. 

Post-Offices. — There are three post-offices : one at Strontian, 
to which there is a daily post ; another at Arasaig, to which there 
is one three times in tbe week ; and a third at Kilchoan, to whicb 
there is a runner to and from Strontian twice in the week. 

Means of Commwiication,-'-^ Abont sixty miles of good higb 
road have been made ; but this is very far short of what is re« 
quired to complete the public lines, exclusive of the internal com* 
munication of districts and properties. There are two lines of 
communication with the parish by land, viz. the road which runs* 
from Arasaig by Glenfinnan on the north, to Fort- William and 
tlie Oaledonian Canal ; and that from Strontian on tbe east, to 



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156 ARQYLESHIRE. 

Corran Ferry. By these, cattle and sheep are driven to the 
southern markets. The stearn'oommunication is, however, chiefly 
adopted by travellers of all descriptions. By the Glasgow steam- 
ers, to which access is had at Tobermory and the point of Ara- 
saig, some cattle and sheep, and great quantities of eggs, are sent 
to the south, and the greater part of the oatmeal, groceries, hard 
and stone-wares, and other manufactures for the use of the parish 
imported. 

Harbours. — Notwithstanding the rugged aspect of the coast, 
there are several good harbours. The^Bay of Olenmore, on the 
south of Ardnamurchan, about half a mile west from the first 
narrows or group of islands in Loch Sunart, affords excellent an- 
chorage, and, were it noted in charts, would prove of much im- 
portance to vessels unable to beat into Tobermory in a gale, as, 
in every respect, a better resource than that often resorted to, of 
running out to sea. 

The small harbour of Kilchoan, about five or six miles west on 
the same coast, is of great utility, being the principal point of 
communication with Tobermory, and is occasionally the resort of 
craft conveying the cattle of some western islands to the main 
land. A pier, built on the ledge of rock forming its southern 
wing, and a perch on a rock, only visible at low water, at its mouth, 
would not only improve this harbour, so as to render it in a ten- 
fold degree more locally useful, but would confer a public benefit 
Within not many years, a Prussian ship and an English brig, 
whose valuable cargoes were totally lost, of an united tonnage 
amounting to 700 tons, ran ashore there and were wrecked ; but 
had the erection recommended taken place, they would have been 
preserved undamaged. 

At Ardtoe, on the north coast of Ardnamurchan, there is a 
safe small bay, which one of the piers already alluded to was 
meant to improve. 

At Island Shona, in the mouth of Lochmoidart, there is a se« 
cure and excellent anchorage, and many creeks for fishing-boats, 
which are resorted to in the cod-fishing season by several crews 
from the southern Highlands. 

In Loch na Keaull, in Arasaig, there is a good anchorage, 
though not easily accessible even to craft of moderate draught of 
water, in consequence of numerous shoals and sunk rocks. It is, 
however, a good deal frequented by craft from the islands, and 
sloops conveying to market the products of the country; the 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. l57 

mansion-house of Arasaig, the dwellings of se?eral respectable 
families being contiguous, and the' stores which supply the popu- 
lation with imported necessaries, being on its shore. 

At Drimandarach, near Boradale, and in Lochaylort, there are 
said to be good anchorages. 

In Loch Sunart, there are many places where there is good 
holding ground ; but those chiefly frequented are the Harbour of 
Strontian and the Creek of Salin, which last has been much im- 
proved by the pier lately built there. 

These were pkces of call for a steamer, by which, for upwards 
of twelve months, there was, until of late, direct communication 
with Glasgow. 

At the extreme point of Ardnamurchan, there is a small creek 
into which a sloop, caught by a gale, ran some years ago, and 
was preserved undamaged during the winter. From its situation, 
it may be desirable it were belter known. 

Eceleiiaitical State. — The parish, ecclesiastically, is divided 
into five portions ; the district of the parish church, two Govern- 
ment church districts, now parishes quoad sacra^ a district under 
the care of a missionary minister, and a large extent of country 
under that of the assistant. 

1. The parish church district, the western portion of the pe* 
ninsula of Ardnamurchan, contains two places of worship ; one at 
Kilchoan, on the south, about four or five miles from the point ; 
another at Kilmorie, on the opposite or north coast. At these, 
since the Reformation,, the minister has been in the practice of 
preaching alternately. Remains of ancient churches indicate that 
they had been places of public worship for ages prior to that era. 

The principal church has always been that of Kilchoan, at 
which the largest attendance can be given, and of course was 
built with a view to secure that object, and not with reference, 
geographically, to the parish at large. 

In IbSi, this church, having been long in ruins, was built of 
new on another and better site. It is an excellent commodious 
edifice, capable of containing with ease upwards of 600 persons, 
an extent of accommodation, however, which was by no means 
desired at that station, it having been given on the ground that 
the hearers of Kilmorie, who are all from six to ten miles distant, 
could attend there. The church was built by the heritors, under 
protest that it should be considered full legal provision for the 
whole parish of Ardnamurchan, but accepted by the presbytery 



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158 ARGYLE8HIRE* 

only as accommodatioo for the people who can assemble there, 
viz. the congregation of Kilchoan. The Church of Kilmorie was 
anciently of considerable extent ; its foundations only can now 
be traced. The present house was originally built of dry stone* 
at the expense of the last minister ; was pointed inside and out 
with lime, furnished with windows, and other repairs, at the cost 
of the present incumbent, and is supplied with thatch partly by 
him and the hearers. 

The population of this district was, at last census, 1430. 

2. The quoad sacra parish of Aharcle consists chiefly ef the 
eastern portion of Ardnamurchan, adjacent to the district of the 
parish church, but comprises part of Sunart and of Moidart. 
The Government church and manse are situated pretty centrieally 
at the west end of Lochshiel, twenty«^three miles distant from the pa- 
rish church. The minister occasionally preaches on week days at 
Kinlochmoidart, six miles distant from the former. The popola- 
tion is 2026 ; of these nearly 1200 are Roman Catholics. 

S. The mission of Laga is a tract of ten or eleven miles long of 
the coast of Loch Sunart, being partly in the parish church dis« 
trict, and partly in the parish of Aharcle. The missionary rents 
a small farm from the proprietor, and receives L.60 per annum 
from the Committee on the Royal Bounty. The preaching boose, 
built entirely at his ej^pense, is a dry-stone thatched house, situ- 
ated midway between the parish church and that of Aharcle. 

4. The quoad sacra parish of Strontian constitutes the eastern 
and larger portion of Sunart. The church and manse, thirty 
miles distant from the parish church, are situated in the valley of 
Strontian, in the midst of the most populous part of the district ; 
but the minister occasionally preaches at Polloch on Locfaspeil, 
five miles distant. The population amounts to 1154 by last cen« 
sus. 

5. The district of the assistant, consisting of by far the laiKest di- 
vision of the parish, embraces the greater part of Moidart, and the 
whole of Arasaig and South Morir ; and has two places of worship, 
one forty-six, the other fifty-six miles from the parbh church. The 
first, situated at Polnish near Inveraylort, is a tolerable thatched 
house, built by subscription, which, being inadequate, a consider- 
able share of the expense has fallen on the assistant The last is 
a schooUhouse at Ardnafuaran in Arasaig, built by the late pro* 
prietor, Ranald Greorge Macdonald, £sq« of Clanranald. These 
sUtions have been well selected, in order to insure the largest at^^ 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. 159 

tendance. Tbe assistant receiyes, by virtue of a decreet of aug- 
mentation, from the parish minister, L.55, 1 Is. Id., and L.dO from 
the Committee on the Royal Bounty, with L.5 for communion 
elements. Population— Protestants, 200 ; Roman Catholics, 
1834; total, 1534. 

In all districts, public worship is attended by the whole adult 
population, with exception chiefly of the old or infirm of several 
remote hamlets ; but the amount of attendance is considerably af- 
fected by the weather, particularly where there are neither roads 
nor bridges. The average number of communicants throughout 
the parish is 736. 

Catechisti. — A beneficial increase of the means of religious in- 
struction has been, of late years, obtained in the appointment of 
three catechists,— ^one who receives L.8 per annum from the So- 
ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge in Sunart ; another 
paid a like sum by tbe Synod of Argyle in Ardnamurchan ; and 
a third, to whom the Synod gives L»10 per annum, labours among 
the widely scattered Protestants of the Inverness-shire districts. 
These catechists are all crofters or small tenants in the parish, 
who, by means of their small salaries, are enabled to perambulate 
their respective districts during the summer and winter seasons ; 
and, being men of sense and piety, are doing much good. 

The manse was built above fifty years ago by some private ar- 
rangement betwixt the heritors and the incumbent ; but was not 
accepted by the presbytery until 1829, when it was thoroughly 
repaired, and such additions made to it and offices attached as 
rendered it a commodious residence. 

Tlie QXtent of the glebe is probably 27 English acres, of which 
about 6 now are arable. The yearly value will be about L.IO or 
L.12. 

In 1822, the Court augmented the stipend to 304 bolls, half 
meal half bear, L.20 communion elements, and L.55, Us. Id. to 
pay an assistant The heritors prefer paying the whole teinds, 
which amount to 112 bolls 2 firlots meal, and L.196, 5s. Id. Ster- 
ling. Deducting from this L.55, lis. ld«, paid annually to the 
assistant, the minister receives 112 bolls 2 firlots meal, and L.140, 
14s. money. The victual stipend has hitherto been paid by the 
Linlithgow boll and the fiar prices ; but it is not yet ascertained 
whether the minister is not entitled to the measure of the parish, 
a boll of ten stone, the point to be established being whether that 
was the measure by which the teinds were valued. 



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160 . ARGYLESIIIUE. 

Collections for charitable or religious objects have not been 
made yearly in the churches, on account of the poverty of the peo- 
ple. The amount collected for these purposes during the last 
seven years will average about L.4, 10s. per annum. 

In the Argyleshire districts there is one family of Episcopalians, 
besides that of the proprietor. Sir James Milles Riddell ; three 
or four individuals Anabaptists ; and two or three Roman Catho- 
lic families. The profession of the whole remaining population 
is that of the Established Church, the number about d279, ac- 
cording to last census. In the Inverness districts there are only 
two denominations, that of the Church of Scotland, and of Rome. 
The former amount to 300, the latter 205a 

Roman Catholic Chapels and Priests. — There are five Roman 
Catholic chapels, and two oflBciating priests ; under the jurisdic- 
tion, it is believed, of the bishop residing in Glasgow. The 
priests, it is said, receive a small salary from Rome ; but their 
chief pecuniary resource is the fees charged for their administer- 
ing their seven sacraments. 

Education. — In the parish church district, there are the parish 
school at Kilchoan ; an Assembly's school at Kilmorie ; a Gaelic 
school, kept in operation during the winter months at Achnaha, by 
means of L.5 from the Synod of Argyle, and which is meant to itine- 
ri^te among the remote hamlets ; a Gaelic school, supported, for the 
present, at a similar ex))ense, during the same season by a private 
individual ; total, four schools. In the parish of Aharcle, au As- 
sembly school at the church ; another at Kinlochmoidart. In the 
parish of Strontian, an Assembly school, also in the neighbour- 
hood of the church. In the district of the assistant at ^rdiULfu- 
aran, a school of the Society for Propagating Christian Know- 
ledge. 

It appears, therefore, that there are only seven schools on a 
permanent foundation in the parish. Eight additional are required 
to render education accessible to all the inhabitants. Until this 
year, there were generally one or more schools taught in addition 
to those mentioned, granted, however, only for three years at a 
time by benevolent Societies. 

In the Argyleshire districts, the number betwixt six and fifteen 
years who cannot read or write is 246 ; the number above fifteen in 
that predicament, 843. In the Inverness districts the number of 
the former, 416; in do. the number of the latter, 892. 



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ARDNAMURCHAN. Wl 

tjiteraiure. — There are small collections of books, chiefly Gae- 
lic, for the use of the people at the parish church, Arasaig, Ahar- 
cle, and Strontian, — also libraries at the different Assembly schools, 
provided by that venerable body. The people, however, do not 
as yet make as much use of them as might be expected of their 
intelliffence, and it is to be feared, until they enjoy more of the ease 
and comfort of better circumstances, will not speedily acquire a 
relish for the intellectual gratification of reading. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial relief, hitherto has been about 90, in the Ar« 
gyleshire districts. The average yearly allowance, 5s. 6d. from 
the session, and a stone of oatmeal occasionally from the proprie- 
tor. In the Inverness-shire districts, there has not been as yet 
any roll of paupers, the collections at church being a mere trifle 
there ; and in Ardnamurchan and Sunart, with the exception of the 
amount specified, the poor have been entirely supported by private 
charity, by far the greater portion of which is derived from their 
bumble neighbours and relatives ; resident proprietors and other 
respectable families, though charitably disposed, being few. The 
church collections for the poor in Ardnamurchan and Sunart average 
about L.16 annually. To these have been added occasionally fines 
paid to the session, and small sums taken from the parochial funds. 
No other public provision has hitherto been made for the ordinary 
poor ; but insane paupers requiring medical treatment in asylums, 
and safe custckly, have been provided for by a voluntary contribu- 
tion among the heritors, paid according to their valued rent. In 
this way, during the last five years, L 57 has been expended, the 
insane persons being sent to the Inverness Infirmary, or Glasgow 
Lunatic Asylum. In 1839, from the increase of pauperism, and 
the increasing inability of the people to relieve it, it will be neces- 
sary to make provision for the poor by a parochial assessment, un-- 
less the heritors, as there is little reason to doubt, will supply the 
fiinds by a large voluntary contribution. The only parochial fund, 
strictly speaking, is a sum of L.21, the residue of L.25 for several 
generations in the hands of the session, the origin of which is not 
known. There are, however, bequests to particular districts, one 
of L.dO from the late Mr Cameron, Glenboradale, another of 
L.50'from his brother, Mr Allan Cameron, both gentlemen tacks- 
men, natives of Ardnamurchan, who left these sums to the poor of 
Ardnamurchan and Sunart ; also sums amounting to L.56, left by 
Mr and Miss MacDonald of Morar to the Inverness-shire districts 
of the parish, and neighbouring districts in the parish of Glenelg. 

ARGYLS. L 

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162 ARGTLESHIRE. 

The greater part of these bequests has been now expended. Ap- 
plications for parochial relief are seldom, if ever, made, except on 
good ground. 

Fairs. — Of these there are two ; one holds at Strontian in May 
and in October as a market for cattle and sheep, and is attended 
by the people of Morven and Kilmalie, as well as those of the 
parish. Another holds at Arasaig at such times as to correspond 
with, and not to interfere with that of Strontian, and is also a 
she^p and cattle market Formerly there were several small fairs, 
called Fanks in the parish, which the principal cattle-dealers 
never attended, as they frequent those of Strontian and Arasaig. 
The abolition of the small markets has been beneGcial. 

Inns, — There are three good inns situated at Strontian, Ara- 
saig, and GlenGnnan, and four of an inferior description at other 
places. Of most of the latter, the best that can be said is that 
they are necessary evils. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Were .the writer of the last Statistical Account to revisit his pa- 
rish, what, perhaps, would most forcibly arrest his attention in the 
external surface of the cbuntry, would be the plantations of forest 
trees, and improved fields of moss below the range of the sheep 
walks, contrasted with extensive tracts of outfield arable relapsing 
into their original barrenness, in consequence of being included in 
these pastures. He would be not less struck with changes in its 
social aspect, the absence of congenial society for himself, of the 
beneficial influence of superior knowledge and station in the elder- 
ship ; and the snapping of the link which connected the great 
landed proprietors with the mass of the people, arising from the 
almost total disappearance of the gentlemen tacksmen. He would 
be gratified by observing certain improvements in industry and 
agriculture, but would be astonished to find far less command of 
money, and far less of the comforts of life throughout the parish 
at large. He would view with uomingled satisfaction the govern- 
ment churches, the four Assembly schools, the thr^e catechists, 
and the synod schoolmaster, the total transfer from himself of the 
responsibility as well as labour of extensive districts, to ableand 
efficient brethren, the ordinances of the gospel administered in 
churches, instead of, as in his d^y, and long afterwards in the mis- 
sionary districts now parishes, under the shelter of a rock, in a 
l>arn or a hovel ; the successful difi^usion of intellectual and scrip* 
tural e ucation in so many formerly destitute localities. He would 
find religious knowledge more general and correct, the assumption 



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MORVEUN. 163 

of the externals of religion without its substance, more frequent; 
but the people, upon the whole, improved in religion and morality* 
He would from its absolute necessity, and the public attention di- 
rected to Highland population similarly situated, look forward with 
hope to some amelioration in their circumstances, with respect to 
comfort and independence; and in the powerful efforts of the 
church, and the better spirit of the age, he would rely with confi- 
dence for such addition to the means of religious instruction and 
education, as shall long before the next Statistical Account is 
penned, make still further inroads on the sway of ignorance and 
immorality. 

Drawn up ld3& 



PARISH OF MORVERN. 

PRESBYTERY OF MULL, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. JOHN M'LEOD, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — It is somewhat mortifying, at the outset of this Ac- 
count, to forego, in behalf of Morvern, a claim which has tended 
to vest it with no small degree of interest. Morvern, however, is 
not the land of song, as many erroneously suppose, and, though 
no doubt a part, formed no more than a part of the far-famed do- 
minion of Fingal and his heroes. The term Morvern, indeed, is 
one introduced only in days of modern, refinement, and substituted 
for the less poetical, but more graphic appellation of Mhor Earrain^ 
(usually Morvern,) by which, in the uncorrupted language of its 
native inhabitants, the country is still designated. 

At a very remote period, the district seems to have been known, 
though perhaps comprehending under the name a greater extent 
of territory, as Ceann Albitij the promontory or extremity of Albin 
This appellation was then peculiarly applicable as the Linnhe-locb^ 
which bounds Morvern on the south-east, formed the line of se- 
paration between Drim- Albin, the territory of the northern PictF, 
and Dalriada, the southern part of Argyleshire, the territory of the 
Scots. Thus, in an agreement between Edward Baliol, and John 
of the Isles, of date 1335, confirming to the latter certain laod^ 



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^64 ARGYLESHIRE. 

ivhich King Robert Bruce had, in acknowledgment of more disin- 
terested allegiance, conferred on his father, Angus Og, of the Isles^ 
we Gnd among other lands disponed, ^' Insulam de Mulle, Insu- 
lam de Skye, Insulam de Lewis, Terram de Ken^Albdan,* which 
latter term appears from the subsequent parts of this and the tenor 
of other deeds, not only to have included, but to have specially re- 
ferred to the district now in question. Even at that remote pe- 
riod, however, the term Morvern, as it is sometimes written, Mor- 
marne, is more frequently used. Several etymologies of this term 
have been suggested. With deference, the following is submitted* 

It appears that one of the provinces into which Scotland was 
anciently divided, was Garmoran or Garbh-Mor Earraio, in other 
words, the rugged mainland or continent Of this province, as 
originally marked out, Morvern formed a part, and was then in- 
cluded as a portion of the district, still known as the ** Garbh- 
chriochan," or the rugged bounds. A second province of Garmo- 
ran was, at a much later period, marked out of more limited ex- 
tent From this second province Morvern was excluded. It 
seems, however, to have still in part retained the name Mhor Ear- 
rain, the mainland or continent,'»a distinctive appellation which 
its insularfcharacter and appearance rendered the more requisite, 
and of similar import with Morar or Mor-Thir, still applied to 
other parts of the ancient principality of the Isles in the northern 
district of the parish of Ardnamurchan. 

Extent and Boundaries* — The parish is situated in the northern 
district of the county of Argyle. Its greatest length, taken firom 
east to west, has been computed at 20 miles, and its greatest 
breadth at 15 miles. It contains about 85,369 acres, or 133 
square miles, and presents, (exclusive of the two islands of Orao- 
say and Carna, annexed to it,) a sea coast little short of 100 miles 
in extent From the above statement it will appear that the pa- 
rish is on three sides bounded by water. The eastern or land 
boundary is only 12 miles in length. 

Towards the centre of the parish a second peninsula is formed 
by the approximation of Lochalin from the south, and Loch Tea- 
gus, which branches off from Loch Sunart oo the north. These 
lochs approximate within about six miles of each other, while of 
this intervening space, upwards of two miles are occupied by the 
fresh water lakes of Airi Innis and Daoire nam^mart^ — these also 
connected by a considerable stream, and discharging their waters 
into Lochalin. 

IJandM. — The only inhabited islands forming part of thepafish 



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MORVBRN. 165 

are Oransay and Carna, both situated in liOch Sunart, the north* 
ern boundary. The former is a barren, rocky, and narrow island, about 
two. miles in length, and so much intersected by bays and inlets 
as to be in several parts of it nearly intersected by water. It 
curves towards the land at both ends. At the northern extremity, 
it is accessible on foot at certain periods of the tide, while at the 
south end by a deep, clear, though narrow channel, it gives ad- 
mittance to Druimbuy Loch, which separates it from the main- 
land, — a loch now little known or frequented, but which presents 
one of the safest anchorages even on the west coast. 

Carna lies a short way to the north-east of Oransay, at the im- 
mediate entrance of Loch Teagus. It is considerably elevated. 
The summit is rocky and broken ; but this island affords, at thd 
same time, by its verdure and fertility, especially on the east side 
of it, a pleasing contrast to its somewhat forbidding looking asso- 
ciate. 

Mountains^ 4*c.— The highest mountains are Ben-eaddan, Ben- 
na-hua, Si'ain na Rapaich. Ben-eaddan is 2306 feet above 
the level of the sea. Towards the summit it is accessible by a 
singular flight of steps formed by excavations in the rock, known 
to the inhabitants of the country, as Ceumanan-Fhin, or FingaVs 
steps or stair. The north-east side of the hill, though covered 
with verdure in the memory of persons still living, is now completely 
exposed, and presents ample opportunity to the geologist of exa- 
mining the different strata and formations of the mountain. 

C/ti7ta^t'«— The climate of this, as of every other district on the 
west coast, is extremely variable. Upon the whole, however, it is 
characterized by great mildness. In the immediate proximity of 
the Atlantic, the lofty pinnacles of Mull interposing, and the pre- 
vailing winds westerly, the country must obviously have its full 
share of the prevailing moisture of the west coast ; and, accord- 
ii^ly* >n so far as observations have been nyide, the quantity of 
rain here equals, though it is hoped it does not surpass, that which 
falls at Greenock, being, as it is understood, from 30 to 36 inches 
annually. The country, however, is not subject to heavy snows : 
and, though there are occasional falls of considerable depth, yet, 
surrounded and indented as the parish is by water, they are not of 
long continuance. The greatest fall of which there is any record 
look place in the year 1782, still memorable as the year of the 
*' great snow." The fall commenced on the 7tb of March, and sus- 
pended all spring operations. Its long continuance may be judged 
of by the fact, that an individual, who had been interrupted in 

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16C ARGYLESHIRE. 

ploughiog by the commencement of the storm, found, on resum* 
ing his field operations, that a small bird had snugly nestled in the 
folds of a horse collar, which, with a degree of carelessness more 
common than creditable, he had suspended from an adjoining tree. 
In sheep and other stock, heavy losses were sustained ; but, not- 
withstanding the lateness of the seed-time, the crop is said to have 
been abundant and productive. But the climate, though moist, is 
not unhealthy. Frequent instances of longevity occur, and many 
have never, in the course of a protracted lifetime, been known to 
require medical aid. No doubt, under the influence of a climate 
so moist and variable, rheumatism and pulmonary diseases are fre- 
quent ; but the frequency of these, as also of dyspeptic complaints, 
(to which latter the inhabitants are more particularly subject,) is 
to be attributed to the nature of their food and clothing and modes 
of life, more than to the influence of climate. 

Hydrography. — The principal lakes are those of Airi-Innis, 
Daoire-nam-Mart, and Tearnate. That of Airi-Innis is the larg- 
est. In length it is about two miles, by half a mile in breadth. 

The country throughout abounds with streams and torrents, 
which present, in their rambling course, many interesting features. 
There are many cascades worthy of notice. Those of Ardt6mish 
and Kenloch, as also that on the water of Achleck, in other re- 
spects a Tery uninteresting stream, are specially referred to, as 
abounding in all those features that render similar objects so very 
attractive. The falls of Ardtornish occasionally present a very sin- 
gular appearance, sufficient to account satisfactorily for the descrip- 
ive appellation given to their interesting and picturesque locality, 
Ard-Thor-n'eass, or the high cliff of vmtfrfalh. These cliffs over- 
hang the Bay of Ardtornish, which is formed on the one side by the 
low green point, on the extremity of which the ruins of the castle 
are situated. They are of great height, wooded underneath, to^ 
wards the south broken and precipitous, interspersed throughout 
by very curious trap formations, and, in some places, crested by 
basalt of great regularity. Several streams descend from them ; 
but, in ordinary weather, the body of water is not sufficiently great, 
especially from the bold character of the surrounding scenery, to 
produce any very imposing effect. To be seen to advantage, these 
falls must be viewed during the prevalence of south-westerly gale?^ 
and their usual accompaniment, heavy rains. They then, indeed, 
present a most striking and singular appearance, — the two ele* 
ments, as if in envious contest, vying for superiority. From the 
impending eminence, the several streams descend with great rupi- 

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MORVEUN. 167 

dity ; but, just when about to dash in sparkling Tury over the giddy 
precipice, they are interrupted in their course ; uplifted by the 
opposing gale and showered backwards, a dense cloud of foaming 
spray. Again, the wind subsides, but only for a moment, as if to 
display, in another form, its commanding superiority, — for it may 
be, as the descending torrent approaches the base of the rock» the 
white column is seen gradually condensing, till at length the wind, 
gathering all its strength, carries it upwards to the verge of the 
precipice, whence, after a momentary but vain struggle, it is dis- 
persed by the resistless blast, and showered, as if in sportive tri- 
umph, up into the air. 

The largest stream is Gear-Abhain, formed by the confluence 
of several smaller streams, which, issuing from the parallel glens, 
Glen-Dubh and Glen Goal, are received into a valley intersecting 
these glens at right angles at the lower end, and carried onwards 
till joined by the flow of water from the lake of Airi-Innis, when 
they form what is properly termed the Gear, or short river, which, 
after a brief but sparkling career, joins the sea at Lochalin. At 
the last point of junction referred to, a strange phenomenon is oc- 
casionally or rather very frequently exhibited. The principal 
channel is of some breadth, and of very gentle descent, and the 
body of water, on reaching an opposing bank, is divided into two 
portions, one of which turns at an acute angle, and flows into 
Lochalin in a southern direction, while the other flows in the very 
opposite direction into the lake of Airi-Innis, which continues to 
receive it until, by the augmented flow of the other tribuUiry 
streams by which it is replenished, it acquires a sufiicieht elevation 
to repel the current referred to backwards by the very same chan- 
nel, and to force the whole body of water in the same direction 
onward to the sea. There is thus presented the strange pheno- 
menon of a stream flowing, it may be, for several days in one di- 
rection, and again for several successive days in the very opposite. 

In cool and refreshing springs the country everywhere abounds. 
Their average temperature may be taken at 40^ Some of them, 
especially on the south side of Loch Teagus, are very strongly im- 
pregnated with the sulphate of iron, and one, it is saic), with that 
of copper. 

Scenery. — The outline of Morvern, especially as viewed from the 
Sound of Mull, is no way striking, for though several of the moun- 
tains are of considerable height, yet, when viewed in connection 
with the bold ranges of Appin and Mull, they are of a tame and 
undefined character. There are, however, certain portions of the 



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1^8 ARGYLESHIRE. 

scenery, more especially inland, which present very striking fea- 
tures. Sir 'Walter Scott has rendered Ardtornish famed in song, 
—nor has he overlooked 



- dark Mull ! thy mighty Sound 



Where thwarting tides, with mingled roar, 
Part thy swarth hills from MorTern*8 shore. 

The same distinguished writer, in a note appended to his Lord 
of the Isles, has borne testimony to the interesting character of 
the scenery, which he has hallowed by his poetical descriptions. 

".The Sound of Mull," he observes, " which divides that island 
from the continent of Scotland, is one of the most striking scenes 
which the Hebrides afford to the traveller." — " In fine weather," 
he again adds, " a grander or more impressive scene, both from 
its natural beauties and associations with ancient history and tra- 
dition, can hardly be imagined." Nor is the valley of Unimore, 
which intersects the parish, less striking, whether approached by 
theaptly-namedLochalin,orby the yet more interesting]and not less 
beautiful Loch Teagus. It is overhung on the one side by a range 
of bold and precipitous rocks, on the other by the mountains of 
Ben-eaddan and Ben-na-hua, while its lakes, as if conscious of the 
strong protection thus afforded, rest in quiet serenity underneath, 
reflecting the softened and picturesque beauty by which they are 
more immediately surrounded. There are many flowers born " to 
blush unseen," and there are many scenes of loveliness which the 
rambling tourists of modern times have never yet sought out. But 
Unimore has not escaped notice. Its beauties have been depicted 
by one, — the best qualified of living men to appreciate and deli- 
neate the magnificence of Highland scenery, — one whose pen has 
hallowed many a once neglected scene, which, in the course of his 
interesting but too unobtrusive excursions, he has visited.* 

Morvern and morn, and spring and solitude, 
In front is not the scene magnificent ? 
• • # • • 

Look o'er the edge of the bare precipice ! 

Forgotten are the mountains ; and your heart 

Quakes and recoils, as dizzying down and down 

Ventures your eyesight, often shut in fbar. 

Nor daring to become familiar 

With that strange world withdrawing from your g&z«, 

Most awful in its still profundity. 

Nor of this stedfast earth ! Why tremble so ? 

Hold by the rock, lest wild imaginings 

Do tempt you headlong o*er the battlements 

Plumb down to undiscoverable death 

Unto the bottom of that blind abyss. 

What a terrific distance horn the sky ! 

There might the floating eagle's self feel fear. 

But look again, and .with a steadied gaze, 

• Professor Wilson. 



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MORVERrf. 169 



And lo ! the danfferous is the beautiAiU 
The beautiful, indeed, the true sublime, 
What an al>y8S of glorious poetry ! 

• • • • 9 

- beauty nowhere owes to ocean 



A lovelier haunt than this ! Loch Uni-more ! 
A name in its wild sweetness to our ear 
Fitly denoting a dream-world of peace ! 

Geology^ Sfc. — Geologically Morven is divided into two distinct 
portions, — the one of the trap, the other of the primitive forma- 
tion. The former consists of a bold mountain range, commencing 
at Ardtornish on the south, and extending along the Sound of 
Mull to the north«west boundary, in breadth about five milesr. 
The mountains are generally tabular, and, in some parts, very pre- 
cipitous, exhibiting trap columns of great regularity. Inland, 
the country is very distinctly defined, an extensive valley forming 
throughout a line of demarcation, and pointing out the two forma- 
tions from the Linnheloch to Loch Suinart. The prevailing rock in 
the lower portion is trap. Sandstone and limestone of the very best 
quality are found on the shores of Lochalin, and in that neighbour- 
hood very favourable appearances of coal have also been observed. 
On the shores of the glebe, there is a very remarkable and well-de- 
fined vein of pitchstone interspersed with trap ; and a short way on- 
ward, to the north, a very singular trap rock forms a striking ob- 
ject, — the vein of which it forms a part is discernible from the 
shore upwards, a considerable way towards the summit of the ad- 
joining eminence, in some places rising many feet above the sur- 
face. The portion referred to appears to stand quite alone, and, 
though only about three feet in thickness, it extends in length to 
20 yards, and is in height 30 feet, with an opening through one 
end of it of 5 feet in diameter. Highlanders are not much versed 
in geology. The theory held by some of them, " that whin dikes 
constitute the ribs by which the earth has been held together," 
has not sufiiciently accounted, in the present instance, for this 
strange formation ; and, accordingly, in legends of olden times, it 
is said, that a famed lady, of great physical power, had, with a de- 
gree of public spirit worthy of all imitation, contemplated the mag- 
nificent project of connecting Morvern and Mull by a bridge. The 
rock in question was laid or selected as the foundation, and the 
first arch was to rest on the green island directly opposite. She 
proceeded so far with her good undertaking as to burden her broad 
shoulders with an enormous load of stones, when unfortunately the 
pannier in which she carried them gave way, and, thus discouraged 
at the outset, she abandoned an undertaking which, if completed? 



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170 AROYLE'SHIRB. 

would hare saTed the writer, among others, many a buffeting from 
wrod and storm. An old tumulus of very grdat size is still 
pointed out as Carn-na-Caillich, or old wifif» cairn; and is indi- 
cative of the capacity of the pannier, and of the power of this 
famed female architect 

In the interior or upper district, the prevailing rocks are gneiss 
and mica slate. Ben-eaddan, Ben-na-hua, and Ben-na-guirmeag, 
consist of tabular masses of trap, and repose in marked pre-emi- 
nence on, or at least, on the verge, of high ranges of primitive rock, 
ID tbe district of that formation. 

Mines. — At Luig in Glen-Diibh, a glen which runs parallel to 
Loch Suinart, lead-ore of considerable richness is found. The 
ore was first discovered, upwards of a century ago, by Sir Alexan* 
der Murray of Stanhope, who also had the merit of discovering 
the neighbouring mines of Strontian. Having let the latter, of 
which he was himself proprietor, on lease to the Duke of Norfolk, 
who afterwards made them over to the York Building Company, 
he obtained from the Duke of Argyle a lease of the Glen-Dubh 
mines, and caused them to be wrought for some time with con- 
siderable vigour by a company styled *^The Morvern Mining 
Company.*' These mines are referred to, and their position 
marked out, in a very curious chart of Loch Suinart, publbhed in 
Edinburgh upwards of a century ago, bearing the following mag- 
niloquent title, ** A Plan of Loch Suinart, &a, become &mous 
by the greatest national improvement this age has produced; sur- 
veyed by Alexander Bruce, 1733." The chart is accompanied 
by copious explanatory notes, and bears two engraved views ; the 
one, of the establishment at Strontian, and the other of the Mor- 
vern Company's dep6t at Liddesdale. It is dedicated in compli- 
mentary terms to General Wade, and concludes a strange ^^eoroK 
lary of remarks" by the following couplet : 

" Regnat Georgius Secundus, 
Pneficit Georgius Wade." 

At Ternate, on the estate of Ardtomish, copper mines were at 
one time, and, it is believed, at a much earlier period, in operation. 
There are still, in that neighbourhood, favourable appearances of 
this very valuable mineral. 

Quarries. — The freestone quarries of Lochalin and Ardtomish 
have been found to produce stone of the very best quality and ap- 
pearance. Stone from these quarries was used in the construction 
of the Crinan Canal locks ; of late years, in erecting a very hand- 
some and substantial mansion-house for the proprietor of Lochalin; 



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ICORTBRN. 171 

as also in the erection of the Tety contpiouous, and, tt is hoped, very 
useful lighthouse, built on the sotttbernmoet point of Lismbre. 

Zaotogy. — There are no animals found in this parish but suoh 
as are common to the whole district ; nor does it appear that any^ 
formerly existing, have become extinct, unless, indeed, we unwept 
squirrels, with which the woods are said at one time to hav» 
abounded* Red deer pay only occasional visits ; and the blue or 
mountain hare, though not extinct, is rarely seen. The parish is 
not remarkable for breeding any particular species of stock, but, 
in common with the adjoining districts, produces strong and en* 
during ponies, and the very best description of the short-legged, 
straight-backed, and round-bodied West Highland cattle. The 
old and indigenous breed of sheep, small hardy animals, has been 
superseded by the black-faced or Linton breed; and these, of 
late years, have been, in some instances crossed by Cheviots. 
Goats, a proBtless, and (since increased attention has been paid 
to the growing of timber,) a destructive stock, are rarely tolerated, 
though a few still wander in the more inaccessible mountains. 

The parish is much infested by all kinds of ground vermin, from 
the cunning fox down to the nimble weasel; which circumstance, 
along with the general introduction of sheep, in some degree ac- 
counts for the yearly increasing scarcity of game, just in propor> 
tion to the yearly increasing rigour with which the moors are pro- 
tected. From the rugged character of the country, and its proxi- 
mity to the forests of Lochiel, it abounds throughout with foxes, 
insomuch that the parish fox-hunter, whose usefulness, like that of 
more important functionaries, is not a little impaired by the extent 
and character of the territory assigned them, succeeds in killing 
nearly at the rate of thirty annually. They are of the black-leg* 
ged kind, the swiftest and most destructive of the species.. The 
fox, however, is not worse than be is called, and is, no doubt, 
guiltless of many crimes laid to his charge ; for, just as in the 
household, every missing tea-cup is charged against that mysteri- 
ous personage *^ Nobody,** every missing lamb is charged against 
the fox, while there is no mention of the carelessness of the shop* 
herd. And there are other depredators. The eagle does not 
always soar in midway sky. The. prowling cat and the active 
martin tire of game and poultry, and, like other refined epicures, 
make every effort to procure the other delicacies of the season^ 
The former will steal forth with wary tread in the still May morn- 
ing, and, without shaking a dew-drop from the heather, or inter- 



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I71Z ARGYLESHIRB. 

rupting: the' cslt<>\ of a lark, will seize upon the unresisting lamb 
ere he has enjoyeci one sportive gambol iu the morning sunbeam ; 
while the latter, waiting, with keen twinkling eye, his opportunity 
from his ivy-covered crevice, will spring forth, as if on wing, and 
seize upon his unoffending prey before it has exchanged a parting 
bleat with its v^atchful dam. Nor is the honesty of the unpre- 
tending badger fully established. From certain equivocal appear- 
ances in his churlish abode, strong suspicions have been entertained 
against him ; but it is right to bear testimony, — and the testimony 
is borne by one as free from malice as from partial counsel, — that 
the proofs of his sheep-stealing propensities are far from being 
conclusive. 

We are also much infested by moles. The plausible theory, 
that, by a mutual and well-defined understanding as to the division 
of labour, moles and crows co- operate in improving hill pastures, 
is not, here at kast, confirmed by experience. The moles, to do 
them justice, are rigidly attentive to their share of the compact, 
but there is abundant proof of the negligence of their supposed 
associates, who, on repairing here daily from Mull, (for which 
island they exhibit an unaccountable predilection,) are found, in 
place of attending to the useful occupation of spreading mole-hills, 
to misspend their time in the agreeable, and to them, not altoge- 
ther profitless amusement of picking up shelUfish and dropping the 
same on the rocks underneath ; or, in company with more conge- 
nial associates, eagles, hawks, and ravens, enjoying a more sub- 
stantial repast on the carrion of the mountain. There is, how- 
ever, the less cause to.coifiplain of such petty annoyances, as a 
freedom from others of greater magnitude is enjoyed. There are 
few snakes, and these not very venomous ; and, above all, the en- 
viable but somewhat inexplicable exemption referred to in a for- 
mer account is yet enjoyed, for Morvern has at least this advantage 
over districts in other respects more favoured, that it is wholly free 
from those pests of civilized society, rats. Others may exercise 
their ingenuity in accounting for this fact : the long and the unin- 
terrupted enjoyment of the privilege has operated, as in matters of 
heavier responsibility, in rendering us the more unreflecting on the 
subject 

. FisheZi Sfc. — The Sound of Mull is not remarkable either for 
abundance or variety of fish. The usual kinds of fish are caught, 
and occasionally in great plenty, with the exception of haddock 
and whitings, which, strange to say, seldom appear in the Sound 



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MORYERN. 173 

of Mull, though caught in great abundance in the Linnhe Loch 
and Loch Sunart. 

The herring 6shing has of late years Tailed in Loch Sunart fk$ 
elsewhere, though it is believed a greater degree of expertness in 
deep sea fishing would enable the people in that neighbourhood to 
secure a larger supply. The only regular salmon fishing is that 
of Lochalin, which is neither valuable nor productive, being let» 
with reservation of the rod-fishing, at the annual rent of L. 16 
Sterling. 

Attempts have been made, but hitherto with little success, to 
establish salmon-fishings along the sea coasts. At the estuaries of 
the different streams, sea trout and other fish are caught, and along 
the shores the usual variety of shell-fish is found. The C4>a8ts, 
and more especially the lochs, are frequented by seals, and their 
more interesting and less demure looking associates, otters. The 
latter, on descending from the mountain lochs, journey along 
the sea coasts, calling at the accustomed places of resort, (which, 
at stated intervals, are ranged along, with almost as much regula* 
rity as the stages of a turnpike-road,) and may be seen regaling 
themselves at one time on the scaly salmon, at another partaking 
of a less palatable repast in the slimy entwinings of a conger- * 
eel. 

Birds. — Sea-fowls of the migratory and other kinds are not 
wanting ; and while in the woods, the tlu'ush and the linnet strive 
to charm us into a forgetfulness of the ills of life, their allied tribes 
of the deep are seen busily engaged in their own avocations. In 
the calm summer day, the watchful curlew is seen wading in the 
shaHows; the drowsy heron, as if lost in vague contemplation, 
stands perched on the projecting cliff; the sportive diver appears and 
disappears, as if undecided in his choice of elements ; while others 
congregate with shrill triumph in the wake of the tumbling por- 
poise, darting now and again with steady piercing aim on their 
scaly prey underneath. In winter, too, the '* herdsman of the 
deep'' sends forth in hollow accents the forebodings of tem- 
pest ; the sombre "scart" flaps his wings, as if rejoicing at the an- 
nouncement ; while the more aerial tribes soar on high with grace- 
ful evolutions, as if preparing to herald the approaching storm. 

Attempts have occasionally been made to tame and domesticate 
some of the wild animals of the country. The martin, the most 
social of them all, has frequently taken his place with great com- 
posure at the fireside. But he seldom attains to advanced age. 



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171 AROYLESHIUR. 

He loves to wander forth and' to revisit the scenes of' his yk)uth| 
vfh\\e his good intentions of returning are frustrated by the un- 
sparing terriers, whicfa^ regardless of the insignia of distinction by 
which he is usually decorated, think him fair game when found 
on the mountam, with whatever restrained courtesy they may have 
treated him at home. Efforts have also been made to gain upon 
the surly wild cat, but in vain. The 6rst peep of his kitten €ye 
is an averted look of fraud and fierceness, and be remains a surly 
wild cat to the end, making every advance with a seeming reser* 
vation of displaying, when he pleases, his natural ferocity. Of 
all pets, perhaps the otter is the most useful, if not the most in- 
teresting. An old respectable person, who some years ago rent* 
ed the ferry and small inn of Lochalin, had succeeded wonder- 
fully in training a magpie, which repaid the expenses of her edu- 
cation, by not unirequentiy subjecting her preceptor to the very 
unnecessary trouble of paddling to the opposite shore, where, in 
place of the expected passenger, he found his docile pupil perched 
«apon a rock, chuckling with hearty mirth at the success of her 
imitations. The same iudividuai caught an otter, which, ia a 
short time, became the most expert fisher on the coast, reservin^^ 
of course, as is the wont of all fishers, a suflSciency for self-con- 
sumption. Luxury, however, exercised its enfeebling influence 
The otter became unduly fond of comfort, and, upon a certain 
unhappy night, would insist on sharing with a sturdy Barra fish- 
erman, who had taken up his abode in the house, the comforts of 
a Highland blanket. An affray, it is said a desperate one, ensued. 
The otter was not at the time the greatest sufferer, but unfortu- 
nately afterwards forfeited its life to appease the wrath of the of- 
fended Isles' man. * 

* The oountrj abounds in many anecdotes illustrative of the instinct of tlw ahccp 
And terrier dog ; but, under no training, perhaps have these valuable animali eihi- 
bited greater sagacity than under the dascipUne of a poor enthusiastic lover of thdr 
race, well known in the district by the name of Allan-nan-Conn. Allan, in caH^ 
life, bad exhibited dog-stealing and other accompanying propensities ; but, bdbg a 
tall and.active, though a gaunt and peculiar-looking person, he was received as a 
regimental recruit at a time when the only indispensable qualiScation waa, in Higb« 
land phrase, ^* fitness to cover a battle-field and drown a bullet.*' He was conveyed 
to Stirling* and paraded for inspectbn. A Highland officer of some rank, who hap* 
pened to be going the rounds, recognized him as an old acquaintance, but Allui sign^ 
ficaoUy deelmed any farther conference till the muster was over, llie inspecting oC> 
fleer, the late Sir Ralph Abercromby, it is said, took his rounds. Allan, who bad 
got a hint from some of his comrades to look fierce at him as be passed, drew him- 
aelf up to the full height of his stature and soowled fiercely, on which the officer in 
question characterized him as a *^ fine erect looking fellow.** He did not, however, 
long relish the restramts of a military life; and, though not till the impretsioo of hia 
being more VMue than fbol had been somewhat severely tested, he returned home 
irom Liondon, uke many other travellers, not much wiser than when he went abroad. 





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MORTERN. I7S 

Botany, — A knowledge of the very interestiog science of botany 
is not professed ; but there is every reason to conclude that few^ 
if any, of the rarer species of plants are found in Morvern. No 
doubt there are many plants possessing medicinal properties^ 
which, from an ignorance of their nature and efficacy, are unno* 
ticed and disregarded, just as there are on every hand, sustaining 
promises, from which, under a similar unacquaiotance with their 
potency, we fail to derive comfort. To some extent, however, a 
knowledge of the medicinal properties of plants, at one time very 
general, is still possessed in the Highlands ; nor is this surprising, 

On his return, he at once resumed his former and more congenial pursuits. The 
red coat was superseded by garments not overly well adapted to his form ; sometimes 
the shooting jacket of a slender squire, and at other tiroes the cassoek of an eoclen- 
astic. Over these he wore a loose cloak, suspended from his shoulders, while a mi- 
litary &p was perched upon bis unusually shdrp and pointed forehead. Roand his 
waist he fastened a girdle, above which, in most enviable proiimity, one or two 
whelps enjoyed free egress aad ingress, and, perhaps, as lawyers say, all other pri. 
▼ileges, while curs " of all degrees*' followed in the rear. TIiub attired, Allan, with 
the aid of a huge pike staff, moved along with no very measured strides. When or 
where he taught his dogs, no person can well say. He spent much of his time in tba 
iDouotaina. He paid frequent visits to the houses of the resident gentry, presenting 
some who had the good fortune to enjoy his favour, with spars and minerals pickM 
«ip on ills rambles, and giving others, in whom he felt, as in the case of the writer, a 
peculiar interest, the benefit of bis experience and advice. At night, he repaired to 
the houses of the poor, where, as he archly remarked, he received distinctions which 
his wealthier friends denied him, — " a share of the best room in the house, and of 
the best food at the table ;^' but where, not unfrequently, in utter disregard of the 
' proverbial caution against lying down with dogs, he found it necessary to assign to 
«ach of his followers his own place in administering to his nishUy comfort. Thus, 
though we might suppose, not in the most improving society, his dogs became 
** highly accomplished." He addressed them in no unusual accents, but in the ordi- 
nary conversational tone, and yet he secured at aU times their most implicit obeda« 
ence. When about to leave a house, one was sent out to judge of the weather, which, 
if his report was favourable, returned, giving a most significant grin, as if moving a 
departure ; but, if he thought unfiivourably, be erouched under his master's chair. 
When a movement was agreed upon, the followers were marched forth in regular 
array, not presuming, on pain of the pike staff, to pass in front of any one engaginr 
the favour of their master. Such departures were not always of the peaceable kin£ 
Less mannerly dogs sometimes interfered. Allan, on these occasions, allowed his 
train great latitude, with the eiceptioo of one steady determined-looking old fol- 
lower, which, by way of marking a disrespect he was fiir from feeling, he had named 
after the judge ordinary of the diistrict, who had signally overlooked his qualifle»> 
tions as a wo^ officer, to the office of which bis ambition aspired. ** The Sheriff,** 
as the dog was called, was bound to observe strict neutrality, and was never idlowed 
to interfere till the affray became somewhat desperate. On one of these occasions, 
witnessed by the writer, a young whelp, regardless of what was passing, was frolie- 
ing about at some little distance. Allan, on the restoration of order, despatched one 
of his followers to bring, as be said, that " foolish little child** with him. The dog 
set off, but the ^* foolbh little child"* could not be induced to relinquish his amuse- 
ment. The messenger returned, and received the imperative orders, " if he will not 
come, take him.*' He did so, carried the whelp in his mouth, and laid him at bis 
master*s feet, from which degrading position he was immediately transferred to the 
** region beyond the girdle." But pooir Allan has departed. His ruling passion 
was strong even in death. To the last he suffered not his followers to be removed* 
assuring bis humane attendants that he was uncertain whether or not he could again 
return ; but, if ever man did, he would, to punish thoae who had overlooked Idi 
qualifications as a forester. 



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176 ARGYLESHIRE. 

in a country unhappily left^ in such matters, in a great measure 
io nature's unaided resources. 

Highlanders are not much skilled in domestic economy^ and 
few of the indigenous plants are used by them here for culinary pur- 
poses. We m ust, however, except the " tussilago" and " agrimon;,% 
which are often substituted for tea, and followed, perhaps, by as 
innocuous effects as the mixture of the renowned Howka. 

Owing to the high price of wool and other causes, home-made 
cloths are not now so much worn as they formerly were. The 
comfortless fustians and other inferior cloths of the south are sub* 
stituted in place of them ; but in former times, and to some ex* 
tent still, the dyes* used in preparilag the graceful tartan and the 
homely plaiding were extracted from plants and roots of native 
growth. For instance, the top of the heather was used for dyeii^ 
green ; the bark of the alder and root of the bramble and water- 
lily, for black; crotal, or a spongy substance growing on rocks 
and trees, for brown, &c. 

According to tradition, the parish was at one time covered with 
wood, insomuch that, from the line of road leading along the 
coast, only two views of the sea could be obtained. This state- 
ment may be somewhat exaggerated, but not extravagantly. So 
late as the year 1746, in the memory of persons but recently re- 
moved, who, according to their own graphic description, saw the 
country *^ as one red ember ;" great quantities of timber were, 
in enforcing the sad policy pursued at the time, consumed by 6re. 
In all the mosses, the remains of trees are dug up. On the 
mountain sides, huge trunks of oak yet remain, some of which, 
after exposure to the rains and storms of centuries, still measure 
upwards of ten feet in circumference. There are also extensive 
coppices. During the period occupied in cutting the Morvem 
coppice woods, previous to the sale of the Argyle estates^ it was 
computed that from L.8000 to L. 10,000 were expended on the 
various operations connected with the cutting, &c. of them. There 
are yet extensive ranges of valuable oak and ash in strict pre- 
servation ; but, for the benefit of the much-indulged sheep, the 
wood-axe is aimed at almost every other description of timber. 
Along the shores of Loch Sunart, the heights are thickly wooded, 
chiefly with birch ; the sombre hue of which during the gloom 
of winter beautifully contrasts with the deep green of the un- 
changing holly. 

The planting of wood was successfully tried at a very early pe« 

4 



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MORVERN. 177 

riod. There are yet standing, in all the maturity of age, trees, 
with which the Episcopal clergyman, before the introduction of 
the Presbyterian form of worship, adorned his residence ; and 
there is at Ach-a-charn an avenue of trees, of size and height 
sufficient to quiet any desponding fears which the proprietors of 
modern times may entertain as to the fate of the several planta- 
tions by which their respective properties have of late been taste- 
fully ornamented. The avenue referred to, consisting chiefly of 
lime and plane trees, was planted about 150 years ago by Mr Ca- 
meron of Glen Dessary, the then proprietor of this picturesque 
property. He resided at Ach-a-charn, and occupied a house of 
very peculiar construction ; formed of oak beams placed at regular 
distances ; the intervening spaces being closely interwoven with 
wicker-work. The outside was wholly covered with heath, and 
the interior was divided into several apartments, and finished in a 
style of taste and elegance corresponding with the enlightened 
refinement of the occupants. 

The trees seemingly best adapted to the soil and climate ap- 
pear to be the plane, larch, ash, and oak. Strange to say, the 
S6otch fir, an indigenous tree, a specimen of which grows on one 
of the loftiest pinnacles overhanging the Linnhe Loch, and which, 
for many years, has afforded protection to an eagle nestling with 
great good taste among its branches, is not found to' thrive. 
Firs, no doubt, have been sometimes injudiciously planted, being 
mixed with quick growing larches ; or, from a mistaken idea of 
their hardihood, placed in situations too exposed for plants so top- 
heavy ; but, to the dry and parching winds of March, the failure 
of this tree is to be mainly attributed. 

On the estate of Drimnin, there is a very peculiar specimen 
of the weeping ash, a description and drawing of which have been 
sent to Mr Loudon, and which have appeared, or are about to 
appear, in one of the interesting publications of that enthusiastic 
arborist. 

11. — Civil History. 

MorVern undoubtedly formed part of the dominions of Somer- 
led, well known in Highland tradition as Somhairle-Machd-Gille- 
Bbride, and in history as Thane of Argyle, and was, it is believed, 
the first portion of the confessedly extensive, but somewhat unde- 
fined possessions of his ancestors, which he regained from the ra- 
pacious Norsemen. 

The circumstances connected with this event are, by tradition, 

AROTLE. M 



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^7^ ARGYLESHIUE. 

handed down with great minuteness, and, with a degree o( accu^ 
racy in their general and more important details, amply conBrmed 
by all the information as to the early life of Somerled, which his- 
tory affords. At the period referred to, early in the twelfth cen- 
tury, the clan M^Innes occupied Monrern, and bad suffered se- 
verely in withstanding the repeated attempts of the marauding 
Norsemen to reduce them to entire subjection. They were now 
menaced with another attack. The Lochalin galleys were moored. 
on their shores, and the more experienced of the clan assembled 
to deliberate on the unhappy position in which they were placed, 
and to determine what course they should pursue in so critical an 
emergency. Various opinions were given, and various plans sug- 
gested, but unanimity when so much required, did not pervade the 
council, whereupon an aged individual addressed them, setting 
forth at detailed length the dangers to which such dissensions ex- 
posed them, and how vain it was, while each contended for supe- 
riority, to encounter a foe united as one man, and obedient to the 
commands of an acknowledged leader, concluding by suggesting, 
that, as Somerled was then taking refuge in their country, they 
should devolve upon him the command, and commit themselves 
implicitly to his guidance. This suggestion was at once agreed 
to, and an embassy was despatched to communicate their deter- 
mination to Somerled, which on proceeding in the direction of 
the not very capacious cave occupied by him and his father on the 
shores of the Linnhe Loch, still known as the cave of Gille- Bride, 
found Somerled engaged in angling in the Gear-Abhain. On 
their first advance, he seemed reluctant to permit a near approach, 
and even when assured of their friendly intentions, received them 
with great though courteous reserve. He appeared thoughtful, if 
not pensive, much as he is described in an incomplete manuscript, 
(supposed to be of great antiquity), which, referring perhaps to this 
very period of his life, states " that Somerled kept musing on the 
low condition to which he and his father had been brought, and 
kept at first very retired." To the proposal of the M4nnes, he 
made for a time no reply. At length, he observed that he was en- 
ticed by a sportive salmon, and, if successful in landing him, he 
would consider it a good omen. The eager messengers stood by, 
the salmon was hooked, and after some bold plunges and struggles, 
was at length safely 'landed on the bank. But Somerled angled not 
for amusement solely. Before agreeing to accompany the M4n- 
nes's, he proceeded under the constraint of a higher duty, to bis 



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MORVERN. 179 

father's cave, there to present the food which he had thus provid* 
ed for his sustenance. On parting, however, he gave directions 
as to a suitable place of muster, and commanded that a great, and, 
as the clansmen supposed, a very unnecessary number of fires 
should be lighted, during the following night, around their encamp- 
ment, adding that he would speedily be at his post He kept his 
word, and at once assumed the command for which his skill and 
valour rendered him so well qualified. 

On surveying, as accurately as he could, the host of the invad- 
ers, Somerled at once perceived the inadequacy of his own force 
in numerical strength, and with prompt decision had recourse to 
the following stratagem : A herd of cattle lay quietly pasturing in 
the adjoining valley, collected there no doubt to insure their safe- 
ty. The cattle he ordered to be slain, and, having made this 
strange preparation, he waited the advance of the enemy. The 
commanding position occupied by him enabled him to observe 
their movements, and, as soon as he saw a portion of them in mo- 
tion, he caused his small force to march several successive times 
round the eminence, descending at each circuit into a small glen 
underneath, which appeared to the foe to lead towards the shore, 
but from which, unseen, the advanced portion regained the sum- 
mit as the others were descending from it, thus exhibiting the ap- 
pearance of a continuous force. After a short interval, he caused 
every man to equip himself with a cow's hide, again practising the 
former movement, and then giving his force a yet more formidable 
appearance, caused them to reverse their savage looking " uni- 
form.'' The stratagem succeeded. The Norsemen, supposing 
that a large and formidable force was descending upon them, fell 
into great confusion, while Somerled and his gallant associates, 
availing themselves of this sudden panic, fell on the more advan- 
ced body with great slaughter. Two of the leaders, Borradill 
and Lundy, were slain in adjoining corries, which still bear their 
names, and another, Stangadill, was so closely pursued, that to es- 
cape the sword he leaped into a boiling linn, which, in comme- 
moration of the event, is still known as Ea$8 Stangadill. This 
achievement, sufficient of itself to inspire the M^nneses with con- 
6dence in their leader, was soon followed up by others of a similar 
description. Somerled in a short time succeeded in expelling the 
marauding Norsemen from Morvem, and thus at length the hum* 
ble occupant of the cave became the powerful Thane of Argyle. 
Morvem, thus recovered by Somerled, continued to form part of his 



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180 ARGYLESHIRC. 

wide dominions down till the period of his death in 1 164, and re* 
mained afterwards, with occasional interruptions, attendant on the 
troubles of the times, in possession of his lineal descendants,the 
Lords of the Isles. In Bruce's varied struggles, Angus Og of the 
Isles took a prominent part, and accordingly we find Morvern 
among other lands, confirmed to him in return for his important 
services. His son, John of the Isles, at a time when circumstan- 
ces rendered the integrity of his motives questionable, joined the 
standard of Edward Baliol, and thus was he in his turn confirmed 
in possessions which mere devoted loyalty had securred to his fa- 
ther. Towards the end of the fourteenth century, the family of 
the Isles became connected with the clan McLean, and by a char- 
ter granted at Ardtornish in 1390, Donald of the Isles conferred 
on the chief of that clan, McLean of Duart, among other lands, 
those of Morvern. By this and other deeds afterwards duly ratifi- 
ed by crown charters, the McLeans, though not without some in- 
terruptions, retained possession of Morvern down to the year 1680^ 
when, from circumstances well known, it came into the hands of 
the dominant tannWy of Argyle. It is said to have been the ex- 
press desire of a member of this illustrious house, that a marked 
distinction should appear in the condition of his, from that of any 
other tenantry, and it was certainly in accordance with this gene- 
rous wish, that the Argyle possessions in Morven appear to have 
been managed. The land was at no period, highly, or even fully, 
rented. In 1731, when the Argyle estates constituted at least 
two-thirds of the extent of the parish, the rental amounted to L.31S 
Sterling only, and though doubtless several augmentations did, at 
successive intervals of time, take place, it seems to have been at 
all times the desire of the successive members of this illustrious 
family to let their extensive possessions with a due regard to the 
comfort and well being of the people, and the right organization of 
society, thus securing for the smaller possessions, a class of intel- 
ligent tenantry, and for the larger, a body of highly educated and 
influential gentlemen. 

In 1819, the Argyle estates in Morvern were exposed to sale, 
and, to the sorrow of a grateful and happy community, passed at 
this period, in all the varied subdivisions of which they now consist, 
into the hands of other proprietors. 

Landowners. — At present there are eleven proprietors. Three 
of these are resident and one partially so. The old tack leases 
have expired, and changes have accordingly taken place, which. 



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BIORVBRN. 181 

as will hereafter appear, have materially altered the state of the 
country, and the condition of its inhabitants. 

The valued rent of the parish amounts to L«256, 19s. lid. Five 
of the proprietors farm their own estates^ and from this circum- 
stance the actual rental cannot be so accurately ascertained. It 
may, however, be rated at or about L. 5700 Sterling per annum. 
The following is a list of the land-owners, accopding to their re- 
spective valuations : John Sinclair, Esq. of Lochalin ; Mrs Beattie^ 
of Glen Morvern ; Alexander Stewart, Esq- of Olen Crebisdale ; 
Sir Charles Gordon of Drimnin; James Alexander, Esq. of Lid- 
desdale ; John Gregorson, Esq. of Ardtornish ; Patrick Sellar of 
Ach-a-charm ; John M^Laine, Esq. of Killuudin ; Dugald Mac- 
Lachlan, Esq. of Laudle ; H. Graham, Esq. of Achrannich ; Char- 
les H. Forbes, Esq. of Kengerlocb. 

His Grace the Duke of Argyle is patron of the parish. 

Parochial Registers. — The parish registers are regularly kept, 
but they do not extend to a very early period, nor are they volu- 
minous. 

Antiquities. — St Cohimba, in the good old times of church ex- 
tension, founded a religious establishment. in Morvern; a circum- 
stance which still gives to its locality the name of Kiel-challum- 
chille. 

The legends of the country to which is is found necessary so 
^ften to refer, affirm that the revered saint and his zealous coadju- 
tor Kilmaluag, had visited Lismore, and they narrate a very strange 
dialogue held by them as to the propriety of forming an establish- 
ment in that island^ interesting only from its fertility. The result 
was, that the undertaking was for the time abandoned, and that 
their attention was directed towards Morvern. They crossed 
Loch Lionhe, and, on gaining the summit of the eminence com- 
manding a view of the Morvern coasts^ St Columba at once paus- 
ed, and planting his foot on a rock on which he left its indelible 
impression, pointed to Kiel, and exclaimed *' There is the place." 
Whether we believe this legend in whole or in part, it appears 
tliat the establishment in question was actually founded by the ve- 
nerable saint, who, if guided by his sense of the beautiful, was in 
this instance successful. It is probable, however, that, while this 
establishment was founded by St Columba, the several buildings, 
the ruins of which, consisting of two very striking arches, are still 
to be seen, were erected at a much later period, contemporaneous, 
it may have been, with those of lona. In immediate proximity to 

4 



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182 ARGYLESHIRE. 

them, there is a very handsome cross still standing in perfect prei 
servation, while the remains of others, curiously carved, are laid 
upon some of the adjoining graves. They are formed of the same 
kind of stone of which the lona crosses are formed, and are said, 
though perhaps on slender authority, to have been carried from 
that famed island. 

The burying ground surrounds the ruins, and the day is not far 
gone when the ancient chroniclers of the country, seated on the 
mouldering slabs, narrated many very interesting legends connect* 
ed with this hallowed spot, where 

Now in peace the ashes mix 
Of Uiose who once were foes. 

The tomb of the renowned Machd-Mhic-Ian is still pointed out* 
The death of this celebrated personage, more famed for personal 
prowess than for more estimable qualities, is recorded in history as 
having taken place in Morvern in 1625, in a skirmish with the Ca* 
merons, to which clan, as the murderer of his uncle, John Og- Mac- 
Ian, the betrothed husband of Lochiel's daughter, he had become 
very obnoxious. In the traditionary narrative of the event, it is 
said that the Camerons and the followers of Mac-Mhic«Ian were 
drawn out and about to engage. One of the clan Cameron, not 
the most powerful of them, observed Mac-Mhic-Ian uplifting his 
enormous helmet, upon which, drawing an arrow from his quiver, 
he remarked to a clansman, ^^ though mighty this will do for him.'' 
*• It is not," was the reply, " by the hand of the feeble that he will 
fall." The bow was instantly bent ; the swift arrow winged its un- 
erring course; and the hand of the warrior, which at that moment 
was passing over his forehead, was pinioned to his skull. He fell ; 
but, for a moment regaining his strength,' he arose, and expressed a 
desire, it is feared a treacherous one, to deliver bis sword to Lochiel. 
But the last spark of life was fast expiring. He clenched the huge 
weapon, and in the ire of death, transfixed it to the hilt in an oppo- 
site bank, and fell on it to rise no more. On his tomb there is the fit* 
ting representation of a mailed warrior, with a ponderous broadsword, 
and his bossy shield remains still in the possession of a gentleman 
residing in the immediate neighbourhood of Leachd-nam-Saighid, 
or the ledge afarrowSi where the tragical event took place* 

Adjoining Mac-Mhic-Ian's tomb, there are several stone coffins, 
to which the Maclnneses,as the descendants of the aborigines of the 
country, still maintain their claim. One of these is said to contain 
the ashes of a Spanish lady of rank, of whom the following account is 



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MOIIVEUN. 



183 



given: Slie is supposed to have perished on boardhof the Florida, 
one of the ill-fated Armada blown up in the bay of Tobermory in 
the reign of Queen Elizabeth. But the historical and authentic ac« 
count of this event proved unsatisfactory to an imaginative people, 
and it has accordingly been blended with tales of fiction and ro- 
mance. Ac<:ording to these, the lady in question, a princess, as 
she is designated, had seen in her midnight dreams a person of 
great elegance, for whom she had formed a strong and devoted at- 
tachment. Having long sought for the reality of this visionary 
personage, but in vain, she at length resolved to fit out an expedi- 
tion, and to extend her search beyond the boundaries of Spain. 
In the course of her interesting excursion, she arrived at Tober- 
mory, on board of the unlucky Florida. Here she saw for the 
first time Lachlan McLean of Duart, recognized him as the ob- 
ject of her search, and avowed for him her cherished attachment. 
This avowal, however complimentary to McLean, was not, as may 
be supposed, equally agreeable to his lady, who, in order to se- 
cure the affections and fidelity of her husband, caused the Florida 
to l>e blown up. The princess was among the sufferers, and her 
remains were conveyed to Kiel-Colum-Kill, and deposited in the 
stone-coffin in question, which is still pointed out, in connection 
with other legends of too detailed a character to be here inserted. 

Along the sea coasts of the parish, there are the remains of se- 
veral small forts or strongholds, no doubt of importance in the 
days of Danish invasion. On a small island in Loch Tearnate, the 
ruins of a stronghold also appear. There are several Druidic^l 
circles. There are also tumuli ; from these urns have occasionally 
been dug, which, from a mistaken idea of their containing trea- 
sure, have been generally destroyed before coming into the pos- 
session of those capable of appreciating their value. Carn-na- 
Caillich, the huge tumulus already referred to, still remains entire. 
It is composed of loose stones, piled upon each other to a very 
considerable height, and measures 81 yards in circumference. 

At Loch Teagus, on an insulated and wooded eminence, there 
are the remains of a vitrified fort involved in all the perplexing 
mysteries which render these objects so interesting. 

The most conspicuous objects of antiquity are the old castles ; 
but it is somewhat strange, that the early history of these once 
important buildings should be involved in very great obscurity. 
It is perhaps difficult to fix upon the precise era in which these 
buildings were erected. The probability is, that they were origi- 



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184 AROYLESHIRE, 

nally built, at a ^ery remote period, by the aborigines of the cohb- 
try, and afterwards enlarged and eiitended by northern invaders, 
and more latterly by feudal chiefs. 

In Morvern the castles are three in number, Ardtornish, Ken- 
lochaline, and Killundine. The castle of Drimmn, as the com- 
paratively unimportant building was termed, has of late years been 
pulled down, in preparing a site for a Roman Catholic chapel, now 
erected on the commanding situation which it occupied. It is 
pardonable to express regret that so very unnecessary a work of 
demolition should have taken place; but it is just to add, that, in 
this expression of regret, the enlightened proprietor of Drimnin 
now fiiHy participates. 

The Castle of Kiljundine, for so the uninteresting building is 
termed, is evidently, from its construction, of comparatively mo- 
dern date. It is said to have been used as a hunting lodge by the 
feudal occupants of the opposite castle of Aross ; and, from this 
circumstance, it is yet known as Caisteal-nan-Conn, or the castW 
of Dogs. 

The Castle of Kenlochaline, consisting of a square tower, And 
built on a very picturesque situation overhanging the estuary of 
Gear Abhain, is supposed to have been erected by Dubh-Chal, 
a lady of the M^Innes tribe, who, according to tradition, paid her 
architect with the very extraordinary remuneration, a quantity 
equal to the full of the castle, of butter. This castle was occu- 
pied by Colonel Kitteach and his detachment of Irish troops, in 
1664, and afterwards set fire to by him, — a proceeding which he 
himself is said to have regretted. 

ArdtornUh.—^^ The ruins of Ardtornish," say Sh- Walter Scott, 
^* are not now very considerable, and consist chiefly of the remains 
of an old keep or tower, with fragments of outward defences. But 
in former days, it was a place of great consequence, being one of the 
principal strongholds which the Lords of the Isles, during the pe- 
riod of their stormy independence, possessed upon the mainland 
of Argyleshire* Here they assembled what popular tradition calls 
their parliaments, n)eaning, I suppose, their * campleniere,' or 
assembly of feudal and ptriarchal vassals and dependents." 

It was here, as history records, that the conference took place 
between the commissioners of Edward IV. and those of John of the 
Isles, 19th October 1641, which terminated in the notable treaty, by 
which the Lord of the Isles acknowledged himself a vassal of the 
Crown of England, and promised to aid the sovereign of that king- 



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ItfORVEBN. 185 

dom, in reducing Scotland to subjection. The site of the spacious 
apartment in which ^^ the Parliament'' met is still pointed out, 
and in the face of the rock, overhanging the bay of Ardtomish, is 
pointed out the precipice over which the tran^ressors of feudal 
laws were thrown, — 9, doom not more enviable, than that of those 
who suffered at the base of the Tarpeian rock« 

III. — Population. 
The population of the Highlands has undergone many fluctua* 
tions. No doubt, in ancient times, the country was populous. 
While the power of the feudal chief was estimated or his posses* 
sions secured by his vassals and retainers, efforts were made to 
augment their numbers. At a later period also, during the pre-* 
valence of war, and the prosperity of kelp manufacture,' similar 
efforts were resorted to ; and, accordingly, almost every spot was 
occupied, not only along the sea coasts, but also in the inland 
glens. The introduction of sheep-farming, and the failure of kelp 
manufacture, have introduced a different system. The tenure of 
land, as held by the poorer classes, is simple in the extreme, and 
their hamlets removable with as great ease, and to others with as 
little detriment, as a temporary encampment, and, accordingly, 
humanity alone has obstructed, in causing the more general recourse 
to the depopulation system, — a system, let it be remembered, held 
at no distant period in such dread, when emigration to America 
seemed to offer to the people themselves so many inducements, — 
Morvern participated to no small extent in these fluctuations. It 
is evident that the population was great, previous to 1755. It 
appears to have come, at and from that period, to the amount at 
which it has, with no inconsiderable variations, continued down to 
the present day, or, at least, to the period of the last census. 



Amount of popnlation in 1755, 


• 


1228 


1795» 


, 


1764 


180I» 


, 


2000 


1831, 


• 


2096 


1841, 


• 


1781 



But while it appears that the population of 1881, which con» 
siderably exceeds that of the present period, is not much more 
than that of 1795, and is not greater than the extent and resour- 
ces of the country are capable of supporting, it is necessary, in 
drawing conclusions from these and the following numerical state- 
ments, to advert to the very different mode in which the inhabi- 
tants of the country are now located. 

The fact is, the two opposite systems of depopulating and over- 



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186 ARGYLESHIttE. 

peopling are here in full operation. To the former there are 
strong inducements. The country, undoubtedly, is, to a great ex- 
tent, a pastoral district, and, of whatever improyements the soil may 
be susceptible, and whatever fertility it may, and, in some districts, 
really does possess, the variable character of the climate renders 
the raising of crop precarious ; and, besides, the price of sheep and 
wool has of late years maintained an entire ascendency over that 
of black*cattle and agricultural produce. Accordingly, on the sale 
of the Argyle estates, and the breaking up of the old tack leases, 
the sheep system came into more general operation. The people^ 
though in some cases partially continued, from motives of com- 
passion, have biit slender holdings. In other cases, they have 
been wholly removed. This process has again facilitated the in* 
troduction of another, in one point of view, certainly the most com- 
mendable, but, on the whole, perhaps not the least pernicious in 
its effects ; for, in place of repairing to the south, in search of 
steady employment, or taking the more decided and advisable 
step of emigrating, the dispossessed tenantry have here and else- 
where become the occupants of small allotments in wretched vil- 
lages, where idleness exercises its unhappy influence over them, 
and lands them in penury and wretchedness. 

These remarks are made, not as advocating either of the sys- 
tems, or reproaching any of the respected individuals by whom 
they are severally practised. Each system has its advantages and 
disadvantages, as judiciously or injudiciously acted on. Both 
are to be condemned, when carried to an undue extremity. The 
evil effects of the allotment system are obvious ; but, in addition 
to its more immediate, but perhaps temporary effects on the con- 
dition of the people, the other system referred to will, in all pro- 
bability, yet be seen to produce evils of great magnitude. It will 
suspend the reclaiming of waste land, and, while the arable now 
or lately in cultivation will soon become overrun, as it has a strong 
tendency to do, with fog, heath, and brushwood, the existing dikes 
and farm-steadings will become dilapidated ; and then, should the 
price of black-cattle, as it is not improbable, regain its former 
amount, will the acknowledgment be more readily given than at 
present, that a system, combining, as formerly, the agricultural 
and the pastoral, is of all the most conducive to the improvement 
of the country, the comfort of the people, and the interest of the 
proprietors. 



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MORVERN. 1^7 

With the above explanations the following details are given : — 

The yearly avenge of births for the last •even yeart) 40 

marriages, 7 

There is no register of deaths kept 

Population of the parish by the census of 183], 20S6 

The average number of persons under 15, 685 

betwixt 15 and 80, 438 

30 and 50, . 495 

50 and 70, . . 368 

upwards of 70, .50 

Number of proprietors of the yearly value of L.50 and upwards, 1 1 

of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers upwards of 50, 54 

women upwards of 50, .156 

of families, . » i .391 

Average number of children in each family, 5|nearly 

Number of insane, &tuou8, deaf, dumb, &c. . * 5 

The language generally spoken in the parish is Gaelic, which 
has not lost ground, though English has made some advances* 
The two languages seem about to form a friendly alliance, and to 
co-esist on the same terms of amity which, here at least, happily^ 
characterize the intercourse of the parties by whom they are se- 
verally spoken. 

There are still, no doubt, many traits of national character ex- 
hibited among the native population ; but these peculiarities are 
fast fading away, and even now are discernible only to those who 
enjoy unrestrained intercourse with them, in the hour of festive 
mirth, and in the season of sorrow and distress. It is only during 
holiday times that any of the popular games, such as shinty, are to 
any extent indulged in, and even then the weight of care seems to* 
impede activity. The year is still ushered in on the 12th January, 
with not a few of the peculiar observances of the olden times. The 
people, in general, are disposed to be cleanly ; but it is to be regret- 
ted, that very frequently the construction of their houses and other 
causes have a counteracting effect. Their ordinary food is simple 
in the extreme, consisting chiefly of milk, fish, &c. and, above all, 
potatoes, in the Highlands, at least, the staff of life. Indeed, there 
are many, it is feared, much in the predicament of a little boy of 
the parish, who, on being asked on a certain occasion of what his 
three daily meals consisted, gave the same unvarying answer, — 
*^ Mashed potatoes;" and on being farther asked by his too in*» 
quisitive inquirer, ^^ What else?" replied, with great artlessness, 
but with evident surprise, ^' A spoon I" The poor people, how- 
ever, are on the whole patient, if not contented. They are not 
remarkable for habits of continued industry, but they are so for 
strict frugality. They are backward in making high professions 



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188 ARGYLESHIRE, 

or religion ; but they are, it is hoped, alive to its importance, and 
influenced by its sacred truths. 

Smuggling, now suppressed, did at one' time exercise a baneful 
influence, though, from the manner in which this nefarious traffic 
was conducted, the same extent of demoralization did not follow 
in its train here as elsewhere. The persons engaged in it seem 
generally to have acquired a speeulative and unsettled cast of 
mind ; but many of them, strange to say, are yet distinguished for 
great sobriety, which, with the exceptions that occur here, as io 
every community, forms a striking feature in the character of the 
whole population. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture^ — From the several statements given of the extent, 
&c« of the parish, it will appear that the arable land bears but a 
small proportion to the pasture, and thus, even in those farms 
in which the greatest quantity of crop is raised, and to* the culti- 
vation of which most attention is paid, there is seldom more corn 
grown than is sufficient for the consumption of the stock maintained. 
In so for, however, as agriculture is attended to, a better system 
of husbandry has been introduced. Greater attention is paid, and 
especially on one, and perhaps the most improved estate in the 
parish, to the subdivision and better cultivation of the land, and 
in securing a more regular rotation of crops. Eflbrts have also been 
made, attended with considerable success, in improving moss and in 
reclaiming other waste lands. The usual crops are oats, barley, and 
potatoes ; and in some farms sown grass and turnips are raised. 
Five of the estates within the bounds of the parish are managed 
by the respective proprietors, three of them exclusively, as sheep 
grazings. There are farms let to persons paying upwards of 
L.100 of rent on leases, in no instance exceeding nineteen years. 
Small tenants, as they are termed, usually hold their possessions 
without any lease. 

The most common breed of sheep, as already stated, is the 
Linton or black-faced, in some instances crossed with Cheviots. 
The cattle are the pure Argyleshire or west Highland breed. 
The average rate of grazing, in accordance with which the follow- 
ing details are given, may be stated at 2s. 6d. per head for each 
sheep, and L.2 for each cow. The usual rate of servants' wages 
is, for ploughmen, single men, from L. 9 to L. 13^ with rations ; 
for house servants, from L.3 to L.4 per annum ; for day labour* 
ers, Is. dd. per day; for masons and carpenters, 2s. per day. 



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MORVeUN. 189 

Number of arable acres, - 4054 

pasture, - - 78,846 

wood, ... 3069 

Produce. — 
29,000 sheep at 28. 6d. per head, . ^ . L.3625 

690 cows at L.2 per head, • - 1380 

Sowing or 512 bolls oats, 3^ returns, at L.I per boll, • 1792 
Planting of 1290 barrels potatoes, 15 returns, at 2s. 6d. per 

barrel, 2418 15 

leOOOstonesof hay, at 8d. per stone, . • 533 6 8 

Produce of woods per annum, ... loo 

Fisheries, say - - .- >- 25 

Miscellaneous produce, - - - 100 

. 9974 1 8 

V. — Parochial £cof70MY. 

Market^Totcn* — The market-town of Morvern is Tobermory, 
distant from the nearest point about four miles. It is considerably 
resorted to, though, from the recent formation of a village at 
Lochalin, neither Tobermory nor yet Oban, which, for some parts 
of the parish, is equally convenient, is not now so much resorted 
to as formerly. 

Means of Communication. — The communication with the pa- 
rish is now comparatively easy by means of steam-vessels. The first 
vessel of this description passed through the Sound of Mull, on 
her way to the east coast, in 1818, some of the old inhabitants 
expressing great surprise, that, during a long residence on the sea- 
coast, they had never seen another vessel of the same wonderful 
construction^ In 1821, a steam-vessel, the Highlander, com- 
menced plying regularly between Glasgow and Tobermory, cal- 
ling at Lochalin, as one of the intermediate ports. Recently an 
attempt has been made to perform this voyage in one day, with 
a degree of success that leads us to hope that it may yet, un- 
der better arrangements, be successful. There is also commu- 
nication with the parish by means of ferries, of which there are 
five statedly fixed on ; three on the Sound of Mull, and two on 
Loch Suinart. During the winter months, the steam communi- 
cation with Tobermory is less frequent ; sometimes it is entirely 
suspended ; and, consequently, during that period, a packet-boat 
plies between Lochalin and Oban. ^ 

Post-Office. — A post-office has, for a considerable period, been 
established in the parish. It is now a sub-office to Oban. Letters 
are despatched and received three times a week, — and such is the 
insular character of the parish, that our mail bag, in its progress 
to and from our mainland, passes through two islands and over 
three ferries. This annoying inconvenience arises solely from the 



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190 ARGYI.ESHIRE. 

want of roads, which renders communication with the parish on 
the east or mainland side almost impracticable. There are no 
roads. The only approximation to a road is along the Sound of 
Mull, and of this line there are not above five continuous miles 
on which even a cart can be driven with safety. The interior is 
pathless. How the country should thus have remained, in so im- 
portant a respect, in the rear of every other, it is unnecessary here 
to mention, further, than to observe that the Government grant^so 
beneficial elsewhere, was not accepted of under the stipulation an- 
nexed to it; and that the county line, as it is termed, does not extend 
to or embrace this parish. Various lines have been surveyed, all of 
them perhaps very good. Since this engineering process com- 
menced, steam navigation has been introduced, and railroads have 
followed. There is, however, the less cause to complain, as the prin« 
cipal streams have of late years been supplied with very substan- 
tial bridges. Even in this respect, however, ** much remains 
to do." 

There are several safe anchorages along the coasts. Ardtor- 
nish bay, wholly free from shoals or rocks, presents, especially with 
north and north-westerly winds, a safe anchorage. The entrance to 
Lochalin is narrow, and forlarge vessels especially, at certain periods 
of the tide, which runs there with great rapidity, somewhat shallow ; 
but the loch must still be classed among the best harbours. Un- 
derneath the village, a substantial pier has been constructed by the 
proprietor. Onwards to the north, there are several safe creeks 
and inlets for small craft, as also bays which, in quarters less fa- 
voured, would be considered very desirable places of resort. 
Perhaps, however, the best harbour in the parish is that formerly 
referred to, Drimbuy loch. It is somewhat out of the ordinary tract, 
but would prove, if well known, a safe retreat to many a tempest- 
tossed vessel, prevented by south-westerly gales from taking the 
bay of Tobermory, or, as has sometimes happened, by these gales, 
blown out of that anchorage, safe and commodious though it con- 
fessedly is. Neither Drimbuy, however, nor yet the other excel- 
lent harbours in the opposite side of Loch Suinart are, it is under- 
stood, laid down in ordinary charts, — a culpable omission (not 
easily accounted for) on the part of those having the charge of 
these useful publications. 

Ecderiastical State, — The parish consists of the two parishes of 
Kilcalumkill and Kilumtaith, united, it is believed, shortly after the 
Reformation. The incumbent officiates alternately at two places 



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MOttVERN. 191 

of worship, wliich are situated on the coast, distaDt from each 
other about nine miles, while he feels himself also called upon 
occasionally to preach at other stations in the interior of the dia* 
trict Three farms, situated at the head of Loch Suinart, have 
been annexed, quoad saera^ to the parliamentary parish of 
Strontian, at one of which a missionary minister, stationed in the 
braes of Morvern and Kingerloch, preaches once a fortnight. 
The missionary is ordained, and is paid by the Commi^e on the 
Royal Bounty, — certain heritors giving the stipulated allowance 
for accommodations. The parish churches were built in 1799 
and 1780. They are both in good repair, affording, especially 
from the present state of the population, ample accommodation. 
The sittings are all free. The glebe is supposed to contain about 
sixty acres, and may be rented at the value of about L.30 annual 
rent. The stipend consists of 127 bolls, 2 firlots, 8 pecks, and 3 
lippies meal, (9 stone weight) ; 15 bolls, 3 firlots, 2 pecks, and 
2 lippies bear; and L.15, 17s. 2d. Sterling in money. The 
manse was built in 1779. There are two catechists, the one paid 
by the Committee on the Royal Bounty, a salary of L. 8 per an- 
num, and the other a like amount by the synod of Argyle. A 
Roman Catholic chapel has been erected within the last few years, 
through the instrumentality of one of the proprietors, within the 
bounds of the parish. In the close neighbourhood of the chapel, 
a clergyman of that persuasion is stationed. An Episcopal clergy- 
man, residing at Fortwilliam, has been in the habit of paying oc« 
casional visits to the parish, to minister to the spiritual wants of 
those who still adhere, in some degree, to that persuasion ; at the 
same time that, with enlightened liberality, they join in the ordi- 
nances as dispensed in the parish church. 

The attendance at the several places of worship may be 
stated as follows : Number of families connected with the £s* 
tablished Church, 370; of Roman Catholic families, 8; of pro- 
fessed Episcopalian families, 2; average number of commu- 
nicants at the Established Church, 450.* On the whole, the 
people seem anxious to wait upon the stated ordinances of reli- 
gion, but various causes, such as distance from church, bad roads, 
and poverty, combine to prevent regular attendance. . 

5cAoob.— -The parochial salary, of which the maximum is given,. 
is divided among three teachers, and thus, from the terms or per- 

* About one-tbird of the parishioners are preTented from attending at the pnxhh 
ohurehcs, owing to distance and other phyafoal obstructions. 



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192 AR0TLB8H1RE. 

haps interpretation of the school act, the heritors are reliered 
from all legal claims as to accommodations ; and accordingly in 
these respects, the teachers are wholly dependent, either on their 
own resources or on the liberality of the proprietors. One of the 
teachers is entirely unaccommodated, and thus his usefulness is 
in a great measure impaired* During the winter and spring 
months, several teachers are usually employed by the people them- 
selves in remote localities. The schools taught by these during 
the last winter are included in the statement about to be submit- 
ted ; but with this explanation, that they have been in operation, as 
is usually the case, only during the winter months, and that the sa- 
lary allowed. has not, as may easily be supposed, been adequate to 
procure the services, in every instance at least, of quali6ed or ef- 
ficient teachers. The fluctuating and unsettled state in which 
the parish has, for a considerable period, been kept, while under- 
going a change of proprietors, attended, as might naturally be ex* 
pected, by a change of system and management, has occasioned 
considerable difficulty in effecting arrangements .for the establish* 
meiit of Assembly and other schools, — ^while with regret it must 
be here also recorded, that the advantages of education do not 
appear in some instances to be so highly appreciated as readily to 
secure the very small sacrifice, if such it can be called, which the 
comfortable establishment of schools requires. Three additional 
schools are yet required. Owing to the scattered state of the po- 
pulation and physical obstructions of the country, it is difficult to 
render schools, however numerous, available, or accessible to all 
localities ; and, no doubt, the ambulatory system, which formed 
part of the well-defined arrangements of the Educational Societies 
of the south, may, in the present state of the country, be resorted 
to with the very best effects, provided its operations are placed, as 
has not always been the case in the iostances referred to^ under 
wise and prudent control. The people, generally speaking, seem 
to perceive the advantages of education, both as qualifying for the 
life that now is and that which is to come. The effects wfaidi 
increased *^ facilities of education" have had upon their nMralsand 
conduct, would lead to a disquisition incompatible with the limits 
here allowed. It is obvious, however, that to the very extent to 
which they are becoming a reading people, Highlanders are mcr 
quiring, along with other useful information, more defined and dis- 
tinct views of the great and peculiar doctrines of the Grospel. In 
former times, religious knowledge waS| in a great measuroi conmiu-^ 



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MORVBKN. 193 

nicated orally, aDd» notwithstanding the exertions of the Establish- 
ed clergy and other authorized instructors, it is not surprising that 
opinions handed down from father to son, among a people ^* re- 
formed," it may be said, more by influence than by argument, 
should be tinged by many errors. These errors are now gradual* 
ly disappearing, as the pure source of Bible iastruetien is more 
generally resorted to, and its blessings are fully appreciated. It 
is to be lamented, however, that improvement in morals does not 
correspond, to the extent that might be expected, with the increase 
of knowledge. 

Number of schools in the parish,-^parochial schools, 3 ; other 
schools as referred to, 4 ; general expense of education per 
month. Is. 6d. ; number betwixt six and fifteen years who can 
neither read nor write, 252; number of persons upwards of fifteen 
who can neither read nor write, dt39. 

The branches of education usually taught are, English and 
Gkielic, reading, writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping. One of 
the teachers is qualified to teach the higher branches. Sabbath 
schools are regularly taught. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid amounts to 45, which number has not va- 
ried very materially, for a considerable period of time. . It is to be 
observed, however, that the circumstances of the poor are now 
greatly altered. 

The poor were not formerly supported by a pecuniary provision. 
They lived under the protection of the old established families, and 
held accommodations and received other acts of kindness from 
the more comfortable class of tenantry, on whom they had other 
claims in addition to those of humanity. Matters are now chang- 
ed. Farms are joined and thrown into large tenements. They 
are occupied, for the most part, by persons previously unconnected 
with the country, and who, however humane and well disposed, 
(and generally they are so,) cannot be expected to minister to the 
wants of the poor as was formerly done, or to retain on their te- 
nements the same number of destitute families. Consequently, 
numbers who, by the former system, were prevented from becom- 
ing, are now, under the present system, necessitated to become, 
paupers. They congregate in villages, and, when health fails or 
employment ceases, they have no alternative but to apply to the 
session, while, from the already*mentioned and other causes, such 
as the non-residence of proprietors, and the removal of the te« 

AROTLE. M 



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194 ARGYLESHIRE. 

nantry, the session funds are decreasing in the ratio of the increase 
of the demands upon them, insomuch that here, after deducting 
the usual charges, the session funds admit only of the almost no- 
minal allowance of ds. for each pauper. In this state of things, 
matters, it is clear, cannot long remain. Doubtless the heritors 
ivill perceive the expediency and bounden obligation of forming, 
by voluntary contributions, a more adequate provision for the wants 
of the poor, otherwise the session must adopt, as they will, though 
with great reluctance, the only remaining alternative from which 
they have hitherto, through the unduly taxed benevolence of somo 
resident families and individuals, been enabled with difficulty to 
abstain. During the prevalence of destitution in )8d7 and 1838^ 
large supplies of food, &c. were here as elsewhere distributed 
among the needy and destitute, through the patriotic and benevo- 
lent exertions of a Christian public. That the provision thus made 
should tend in some degree to abate, if not to extinguish that com- 
mendable reluctance to receive eleemosynary aid, by which the 
people of this country were distinguished, is what might naturally be 
expected ; but it is strange that many on this ground should ques- 
tion the wisdom of a measure which, though attended with partial 
evil, has tended so largely to alleviate humau misery. 

Fairs. — A fair is held in the parish twice a-year, on the days 
preceding the Mull summer and winter markets, for the sale of 
black-cattle, and the hiring of servants, and the transaction of 
district business. 

Ale-houses. — Properly speaking, there are no inns. There are 
three public-houses, comparatively respectable; and there are, 
besides, three places of inferior description where spirits are sold. 

Fuel — The fuel in general use is turf or peats, procured at very 
considerable trouble and expense. Those that can afford to pur- 
chase them, have coals, which here (^n be procured sometimes as 
low as 126. per ton, including freight. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The contrast presented by comparing the present with the for- 
mer condition of Morvern, is not of a character inviting to any 
lengthened detail. From the subdivision of property, the general 
appearance of the country is, to a ceitain extent, improved by in- 
creased attention, in the more cultivated parts, to a more judicious 
system of husbandry, the formation of planted and other enclo- 
sures; but, owing to the depopulation of some, and the over- 
peopling of other districts, and, among other cltuses, the great 

3 



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TIIIEE AND COLL. 195 

augmentation of rents, a corresponding improvement, to say the 
least, has not taken place in the condition of the inhabitants ; nor 
are the disadvantages under which the parish was found to labour, 
to any extent remedied. There are yet no roads, no adequate 
means of religious or moral instruction, no resident medical prac- 
titioner, no regular or steady employment for the people. The 
statement of these disadvantages will at once suggest remedial 
measures. The *^ sheep system," however, operates, and will 
probably continue to do so, as a bar to agricultural and other im« 
provements, and thus, under exbting circumstances, there is little 
prospect of seeing the condition of the people greatly ameliorated. 
The conclusion, therefore, is reluctantly but maturely come to, 
that every facility should be afforded to the poor in this and in 
other parishes similarly circumstanced, of acquiring, in other re- 
gions, the independence and comfort now unhappily denied them 
in their native country. 

Auffusi 1843. 



PARISH OF TIREE AND COLL. 

PRESBYTERY OF MULL, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. N. MACLEAN, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

The etymology of Tiree is somewhat uncertain. In the former 
Statistical Account, the name is said to be derived from *< Tir-i/* or 
the land of lona, commonly called in the Gaelic language ^' /," or 
more agreeably to the sound eif; it being supposed that Tiree was of 
old in the possession of the church, and was used as a granary for 
the religious establishment which flourished in that once celebrat- 
ed island. Others, again, are of opinion that the name is derived 
from Ttr^reidhy (pronounced Tir^re), signifying the fiat or level 
land. Both conjectures se^m probable enough, though I am ra- 
ther disposed to prefer the last as being more significant, and 
indicative of the island's general character and appearance. 

Situation^ Extent j Sfc. — Tiree is situated nearly in latitude 56^^ 
north, about 18 miles distant in a westerly direction from the 



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196 ARGYLESHIRE, 

nearest part of Mull. Its greatest length is about 13 miles from 
north-east to south-west. Its breadth is extremely various, the 
greatest being about six miles, and its 6gure very irregular. Ac- 
cording to the plan I have seen, it contains about 27 square miles, 
or 17,327 imperial acres. 

Topographical Appearances. — About the middle of the island 
lies the plain called Reef, which is believed to have been at one 
time covered by the sea. It contains 1500 imperial acres, and is 
nearly a complete level, with the exception of a small knoll or 
eminence near its western extremity. On the east side of Reef 
there is a small inlet called the ford, or in Gaelic ^' foadhaiL'* A 
small sluggish rivulet, having its origin in a marsh, a mile and a- 
half inland, and forming the eastern boundary of Reef, runs into 
this inlet, and constitutes the two divisions of the island called the 
east and west end. Spring-tides frequently render the passage 
across the ford impracticable at the. usual place, and a small stone 
bridge has been built half a mile farther up, for the convenience 
of travellers. The tide, when swollen and agitated by winter 
storms, has sometimes, though very rarely, been known to rise so 
high and run so far into the land, that the sea from the south and 
from the north has nearly met, and thus almost separated the island 
into two. The division on the west side of the ford, however, is 
the most considerable, and contains at least two-thirds of the whole 
population. 

The surface, in general, is uncommonly low and level, perhaps 
not more than fifty feet above high water-mark. Toward the west 
and south-west side, however, there are two or three hills, which 
are, comparatively speaking, of considerable altitude. Of these, 
the highest is Beinn-Heinish, which is, perhaps, from 400 to 500 
feet above the level of the sea. West from Beinn-Heinish lies 
Ceann-a- Mhara, the lowest of the hills, and not much more, as I 
conjecture, than half the height of the former. It forms the west- 
ern headland of the island, as its name imports, and is chiefly re- 
markable for a number of hideous clefts and chasms facing the 
sea, inhabited by myriads of wild fowl, chiefly of the aquatic kind, 
whose screams and discordant notes, when they are disturbed in 
their residence, form a most Babylonish compound, not at all 
grateful to the organs of those who like the " concord of sweet 
sounds.'" Here the craigsmen were wont of old to exeretse their 
boldness and dexterity in catching wild fowls, and collecting their 



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TJRKE AND COLL, 197 

eggs, — a perilous kind of occupation now happily discontinued, or 
only practised occasionally by a few thoughtless boys. 

Though the island of Tiree lies so low, yet when the atmo- 
sphere is clear, the prospect, even from most of the level ground, 
is very comprehensive, and includes an extent of probably 100 
miles' diameter. To the north and north-west are seen Skye and 
other smaller isles, Uist, and Barra, with its lighthouse sometimes 
distinctly visible at night; to the south appear the islands of Jura, 
Islay, &c. ; and, to the east, the mountains of Ardnamurchan, 
Sunart, Appin, and Lorn, On the west, the view is bounded by 
the Atlantic Ocean and horizon* 

The extent of coast, including the bays and other curvatures, I 
should presume to be near forty miles. It is for the most part 
flat and ^ndy, though in some places rocky and precipitous. 
There are several open bays along this coast, some of which, on 
the south-east side, are occasionally used as anchorages. The 
principal of them is the bay of Kirkapol, not far from the eastern 
extremity of the island, which is about a couple of miles across, and 
runs the same distance inland. It contains several rocks, which, 
however, are rather out of the usual tract of vessels or boats, and 
may be easily avoided. The wat^r deepens very gradually, and the 
bottom is considered excellent, or what seamen term good holdings 
ground. The next is the bay of Heinish, protected on one side 
by the southern headland of the island, where a pier has lately been 
partly built by the Commissioners for Northern Lights, to facili* 
tate the landing and shipping of materials for the proposed light- 
house on Sceir-mhor. Both these bays, however, especially the 
latter, are rather exposed to the south and south-east ; and when 
the wind blows strong from that quarter, it occasions a heavy rol- 
ling sea, which renders them uncomfortable and insecure* They 
are but little frequented by shipping, though vessels with good 
tackling might ride securely enough during the summer half year, 
especially in the bay of Kirkapol, which is reckoned the safest and 
best protected. 

The only island of any consideration connected with llree is 
called Soay, which partly forms the east side of the bay of KirkapoK 
It is separated from the main island by a strait or narrow chauneK 
generally passable at half-tide^ and was chiefly valuable for the 
quantity of kelp which it produced, while that article was in esti- 
mation. 

There are several fine sandy beaches lying along the coast, of 



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198 ARGTLESHIRE. 

a firm hard consistence, and very pleasant for walking or for taking 
equestrian exercise. The chief of these partly surrounds the bay 
of Kirkapoly already noticed, and forms a semicircle of about three 
miles. The beach of Tra-vay, further to the west, which bounds 
the plain of Reef on the south side, is about a mile and a-half 
long. There are several others of the same description, but of 
inferior length, which it would be tedious to specify. 

Round the coast, especially on the west and south-west, there 
lie a number of rocks or ledges of foul ground, some of which ex- 
tend to a distance of several miles from the land, and are extremely 
dangerous, sometimes fatal, to shipping. The most noted of these 
is Sceir-mhor, commonly written Skerry-vore by those unacquainted 
with Gaelic orthography, a large flat rock about twelve miles dis* 
tant from the south-west extremity of Tirie. From the circumstance 
of anchors, cables, and other ponderous fragments of wreck being 
occasionally found on this rock, it is conjectured, with much pro* 
bability, that several vessels have been shipwrecked upon it, of 
which no intelligence was ever received. Here the Commissioners 
for Northern Lights resolved, a few years ago, to erect a light* 
house ; and preparations for the work have been going on for some 
time on a large scale, under the direction of Mr Stevenson, civil- 
engineer. It is likely to prove an arduous and laborious under- 
taking, from the distance and diflSculty of access to the rock ; but 
it is to be hoped it will be finally successful, and fully answer the 
patriotic purpose intended. 

ColL — The island of Coll, of the etymology of which name I am 
unable to trace any account, was of old a separate parish, but an- 
nexed to Tiree in the year 1618. It is situated east-north-east from 
the latter, and separated from it by a channel about two miles wide. 
In this channel, but considerably nearer the Coll shore, lies Gunna, 
a low uninhabited island, capable of grazing fifty head of cattle 
during the year. A very rapid tide runs through this channel, 
rendering the passage across often disagreeable, and at times im- 
practicable. The shore or beach on each side is seldom without 
a violent surf, which makes it no easy task to effect a dry landing ; 
and, not &r from Gunna, there are some sandy banks or shoals, 
always under water, which sometimes shift their situations in tem- 
pestuous weather, and add still further to the difficulty and danger 
of the ferry. The only other islands belonging to Coll are, Ei- 
lean-mor, placed at its north-eastern, and Soay, near its southern 



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TIREE AND COLL. 199 

eitremity, and Oransay on the south-east ; all are uninhabited,. 
and graze a few sheep. 

Coll is about fourteen miles long from north-east to south-* 
west, thus making the whole parish (including the ferry) about 
twenty- nine miles in length. I imagine, its greatest breadth 
may be about three miles. It is much more regular in its figure 
than Tiree. Its general appearance is by no means prepossessing, 
at least in the eye of a stranger. Towards the south-east side, it is 
almost, from end to end, a moorish, barren-looking tract, which 
seems hardly capable of cultivation or improvement Along the 
north-west coast, the soil is light and sandy. The intermediate 
space, though interspersed with numerous ledges of rock, contains 
some fine fields, and many small spots of uncommon fertility. 
Though there is nothing in Coll that can with propriety be called 
a mountain, yet it is much more rugged and uneven in its surface 
than Tiree, from which it differs much in its general aspect. 
None of its hills, I presume, exceed the height of 300 feet above 
the sea. 

The sea coast of Coll is much bolder in its character than that 
of Tiree, being for the most part rocky and precipitous. There 
are no dangerous rocks lying at any considerable distance from 
he land, except those called the ** Cairns of Coll," situated about 
a mile from its north-east extremity, and well-known to coasting 
vessels. On the south side of the island is a bay known by the 
name of Loch-Breacacha, which runs about a mile into the land, 
and affords a tolerable^ anchorage in the summer season. At the 
head of this bay, the principal proprietor's house is situated ; and 
at the mouth of it, lies the small verdant island of Soay, already 
tioticed, separated from the land by a narrow but deep channel, 
where there is always sufficient depth of water for boats of any size 
to pass. A little further to the west lies the bay of Crosspol, 
which is a couple of miles across, but is never used as an anchor^ 
age, being full of sunk rocks, and much exposed to the south and 
south-west. It is bounded on the north by a sandy beach about 
a mile long, which is the only one of the kind worthy of notice in 
Coll. 

Gimatef jfc. — It is sometimes remarked by aged people, that 
within their memory the climate in this quarter has undergone a 
perceptible change, and is more rainy than formerly. Yet it may 
be doubted whether the supposed change has not taken place ra« 
ther in their own constitution than in the weather. Be this as it 



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200 ARGYLESHIHE. 

may, though we have unquestionably less rain liere than hi t&e 
more mountainous islands, such as Mull and Skye, or the mainland 
coast adjacent, still it may be called a moist climate. The quan- 
tity of rain which falls, however, or the temperature and pres^re 
of the atmosphere, cannot be stated with any degree of precision^ 
as there are no observations of this kind made, nor instruments 
for making them. The temperature, upon the whole, may be 
considered mild. Snow seldom lies on the ground above a few 
days, and there is rarely any long continuance of frost: the va* 
pours generally descend in a more liquid form, viz* in cold sleety 
rain. The wintry blasts sweep at times over the island with great 
violence, there being no obstruction sufficient to break the current 
or afford protection ; and the winds are extremely keen and pier- 
cing, especially in the months of February and March. The 
west is the generally prevailing wind, though we have sometimes 
considerable tracts from north-east and south-east, more partici;^ 
larly in winter and spring. 

The weather is frequently so variable as to be almost prover* 
bial, and baffle the most sagacious prognosis. In general, how- 
ever, persons who are in the habit of attentively studying it will 
be able, from the appearance of the sky and other circumstances, 
to predict with tolerable accuracy how the ensuing day is likely 
to turn out The best time for making these observations seems 
to be about sunrise or sunset. *' The evening red and the mom* 
ing grey," isa welKknown observation, which commonly holds true 
in prognosticating fair weather. It is also remarked, that, before 
a regular or heavy fall of rain, the air has a peculiar raw and chill 
feel. Aquatic fowls, and perhaps fowls of every description, are 
seen to prune and arrange their plumage for approaching foul 
weather ; and it has been often noticed, that midges become move 
troublesome and venemous immediately before rain.. Cordage i» 
well known to contract on the approach of moist weather, and 
vice versa.* I am not aware of any remarkable aqueous or atmo« 
spheric phenomena. The most striking are the aurora borealis- 

*' A few jBBn ago a neighbouring gentleman, not resident in this parish, who bad 
a smaU specimen of kelp, prolNibly not more than a couple of pounds in weight, lying 
for a considerable time in the sole of a window, informed me that this indicated the 
state of the weather wJth great precision. On the approach of wet weather, eren be- 
fore actual rain commenced, the kelp became damp, and some moisture oozed out of 
it. When the weather began to incline towards fair, this oozing ceased* and the kdp 
became dry as formerly. What 1 thought somewhat remarkable was, that the piece 
of kelp, although repeatedly weighed, as I was told, was not (bund to undergo any 
sensible alteration or diminution of weight. 



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TIREK AND COLL. 201 

or polar Ughts, frequent in winter. These are often very vivid, 
sometimes of a reddish or purplish colour, and spread ov^r a great 
part of the Grmameot. Thunder and lightning are not uncommon 
both in harvest and winter; but here they are seldom or never at« 
tended with fatal or disastrous consequences. 

Lahesy Sfc — There are eight or ten fresh water lakes in this 
island, none of which are of much extent, the largest being per- 
haps somewhat upwards of a mile in length. The whole probably 
cover from 600 to 700 imperial acres* No kind of fish is found 
in them, except small eels, which are never used as food. In Coll 
there is a greater number of small lakes, supposed to cover about 
227 ac^s* Several of these contain small trout, which are some- 
times caught with the rod, more for amusement, I believe, than 
their utility. There are no rivers worthy of notice in either 
island ; and it is rather unnecessary to add, that there are no cas- 
cades. The springs are all perennial, and the water used for 
drinking in general pretty good. There are three mineral springs 
on the north-west side of this island, which appear to be impreg- 
nated with iron. One of them is called in Gaelic from this cir- 
cumstance ** Tobar an iaruinn" or the iron well ; and the rocks 
in their neighbourhood are believed, from their colour and weight, 
to contain more or less of that metaU 

During the more rainy seasons of the year, a great deal of stag* 
nant water lodges on the surface of the ground, in consequence of 
its level nature, the exhalations from which might readily be sup- 
posed to be prejudicial to health* It does not appear, however, 
that this consequence follows in any remarkable degree ; at least, 
if there be such effects, they are in a great measure neutralized or 
counteracted by the pure and bracing sea air. Nor are the inha- 
bitants, in general, more remarked for brevity of life than their 
neighbours around them. Coughs, colds, asthma, rheumatism, 
and scrofubns complaints are not uncommon, and may perhaps be 
in some measure ascribed to the dampness of the climate. 

Rochs^ Soil^ Sfc. — Not being versed in the study of geology or 
botany, and having no immediate access to any person skilled in 
these sciences, I cannot pretend, nor shall I attempt, to give any 
scientific account of whatever may occur under these heads. The 
kinds of rock generally met with are granite and whinstone. Lime- 
stone has also been found in one place. I understand it was used 
as mortar for building the chamberlain'^s house, about the year 



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202 AROYLESHIRE. 

1748, and the parish church more lately, in 1776; since which 
time, it does not appear to have been turned to any account. 

There is marble, both white and reddish, or rather of a varie- 
gated colour, in the farm of Bailephetrish, situated on the north- 
west side of the island. A quarry was beguu here about the year 
179], by an Association designated (I know not whether seriously 
or in jest) " The Tiree Marble Company," their operations be- 
ing conducted under the management of a foreigner, said to be a 
German. A good deal of marble was carried off, the heaviest 
blocks being sent round by boats, and the lightest conveyed over- 
land, to be shipped on board vessels at the harbour; but the diffi- 
culty of transportation and other attendant expenses were found so 
great, that, at the end of three years, the work was relinquished as 
an unproBtable, if not a losing speculation. Some large blocks 
are still lying at the quarry ; and I understand some pieces were 
wrought for the Duke of Argyle, and are to be seen at his Grace's 
residence at Inverary Castle or Roseneath. 

There are no simple minerals, so far as I can discover, found 
in the rocks ; nor are there any ores or mines on either island, 
except a vein of lead ore in the west end of Coll, which, however, 
was never wrought. Near the manse in Tiree, and in a few other 
places, some of the rocks seem to have a mixture of iron, the wa- 
ter which flows from them being of a reddish rusty colour. 

There are varieties of soil in Tiree ; but for the most part it is 
light and sandy. In some parts of the island, there is a good deal of 
clayey soil, which is very stiff and difficult to work, and is believed 
to rest on a bottom of whinstone rock. The loamy soil is deep and 
wet; but the mossy and gravelly, of both which kinds there is a pro- 
portion to be seen, are not deep in general. In some places, two or 
three strata of different kinds may be found lying over one another, 
but not always disposed in the same order. In the mossy ground, 
the remains of decayed trunks and roots of trees, and nutshells in 
a pretty entire state, have been frequently discovered; — showing 
that, though trees will not now thrive, yet they formerly existed 
here, as well as in many of the other Hebrides, and that some 
great natural change or revolution must have taken place. 

The island of Coll, I believe, admits of the same variety of soil, 
with this difference, however, that the great proportion of it is 
mossy or moorish. 

The common kinds of grass are red, white, and yellow clover, 
and daisy. In the more marshy ground, fiorin is frequently met 



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TIREK AND COLL. 203 

uritb. I am not aware that there are any rare or uncommon plants, 
unless a kind of purple geranium, found in a plain near the middle 
of Coll may be reckoned in that number* 

Zoology. — There are no animals here which can be considered 
rare ; nor are there toads, frogs, serpents, or venomous rep- 
tiles of any kind. Rabbits, it is said, were formerly to be seen iu 
this island, but they have been for some time extinct. They are still 
in considerable numbers in Coll. Hares were introduced about 
eighteen years ago, and were likely to multiply fast, had they not 
been harassed and kept down by the great number of dogs, and 
idle fellows with guns, who were constantly in pursuit of them. 
They are supposed to be 'on the decrease, owing chiefly to 
these causes. There is nothing remarkable in the breed of 
cows. They are commonly of the Argyleshire or West Highland 
breed, in a few cases, with a mixture of Irish, — which kind are 
easily distinguished by being always ring-streaked, and are consi- 
dered rather superior to the Highlanders as milkers. The few 
sheep kept are of a mixed kind, chiefly Cheviot and black-faced. 
Pigs are reared in great numbers ; but there are few or no goats, 
the ground being quite unsuitable. A prodigious number of small 
poneys, distinguished for their symmetry and high mettle, were 
formerly reared in this island, and were grazed during summer on 
the plain of Reef, which was then used as a common. These are 
now totally extirpated. More than thirty years ago, the inha- 
bitants were prevailed upon, I believe, with much reluctance, and 
by the interference of authority, to part with them as an unprq^t- 
able stock quite unfit for agricultural labour; and a stronger kind 
was introduced in their stead. 

A few swans occasionally frequent the lakes in winter. They 
generally arrive in December, and remain a couple of months or 
so. Wild geese appear somewhat earlier in the season, and do 
not depart till the end of March. A few woodcock also are 
sometimes seen in time of snow. When these migratory birds 
make their appearance earlier than usual in the season, it is reck- 
oned a pretty sure indication of an early or severe winter. There 
is a great variety of birds which never migrate, such as wild-duck 
ofdifierentkinds, cranes, curlews, grey and green plover, pigeons, 
snipes, &c. It is observed of most of these, however, that they 
are not now seen in such considerable numbers as of old, proba- 
bly in consequence of the greater number of sportsmen who con- 
stantly scare and molest them. 



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204 ARGYLESHIRE. 

1 have already mentioned that there is no fish fit for use in our 
fresh water lakesr The kinds of fish which are chiefly caught, 
and of most importance in an economical point of view, are, cod, 
ling, skate, lythe, gurnet, saithe, or grey fish, and turbot, which 
last is found but rarely.* The shelUfish most deserving of notice 
are, lobsters, crabs, or partans, cockles, lampets, (a kind of shell- 
fish which adheres very closelV) and seems glued, as it were, to 
the rocks), mussels, and razor- fish. These are found and used 
in considerable quantities ; and during seasons of particular scar- 
city, they have sometimes contributed in a considerable degree 
to the support of life among the poorer classes. The shells of 
some of them are also converted into lime by calcination, and make 
very fine white plaster. 

II.— Civil History. 

Parochial Registers, — The parish register of Tiree extends 
back only to 1775, the earliest entry being dated 16th January 
of that year. It appears, fi*om some written documents, that all 
the parish records previous to that period were sent to Edinburgh, 
in order to ascertain certain disputed dates relative to a legal 
process then carrying on, and were lost, or at least never re- 
turned. They do not seem to have been very regularly kept till 
1814. 

Antiquities. — Tiree was formerly a part of the lands pertaining 
to the clan McLean, having been anciently granted to them, as 
is supposed, by the Lord of the Isles ; and that name is still one 
of«the most common in the island. It fell into the possession of 
the family of Argyle in the year 1674, at which time its annual 
rent was L.ld65, Ids. 4d. Scots money, besides some other bur- 
dens payable in produce, and usual in these days. Since that 
period, the Earl or Duke of Argyle has been the sole proprietor. 
There are some plans or surveys of the island, which are in pos- 
session of his Grace's chamberlain. 

There are several remains of anliquity still to be met 

* There is a kind of fish which was formerly pretty often seen on this oout, but 
seems for the last thirty or forty years to have almost entirely disappeared. I am 
not sure of its proper or scientific name, but it is frequently known by the name of 
the sun-fish or basking shark, from its practice of floating at the surface of the wa> 
ter during warm weather or sunshine. In Gaelic it is termed ** Cearban.** These 
were caught with harpoons and lines to somewhat the same style as the Greenland 
whale, and were valuable for the quantity of oil eitracted from their liver. I recollect, 
when a boy, seeing one of them taken, not reckoned a large one, the liver of wbicb 
filled eight barrels, and might have been estimated at 14.25. Since that period I 
have seen only one of them, (about four or five years ago), which was arousing itself 
during the greater part of a day in the bay opposite to the manse. 



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TIREE AND COLL. 205 

with. I have reckoned up fourteen or fifteen duns or old forts, 
believed to be Danish, and seemingly intended as signal or watch- 
towers ; and it is probable there may have been more of them. 
They were generally situated near the sea coast, and built of a 
circular form, without any cement One of them, placed on the top 
of a small hill, had a well within it. The well was built with stone, 
having several steps descending into it, most of which still remain, 
but no vestige of the Tortress now remains, the stones having been 
all removed for other purposes. There was a fortress of a more 
modern date than these duns, situated in a lake near the centre 
of the island, probably the occasional residence of the proprietor 
or chief, from the ruins of which the chamberlain's house was 
built ; and the communication which formerly existed by means 
of a draw-bridge, has, since then, been supplied by a mound or 
causeway built across. From this circumstance, it still retains the 
name of the ^^ Island House." There are aL<^o several remains 
of chapels or religious houses to be seen ; but a description 
* having been given of these in the former Statistical Account, it 
may suffice here merely to mention them. The truth is, that, 
since that date, many of these monuments of antiquity have dis- 
appeared, and are disappearing from year to year. In some in- 
stances, they have probably been overwhelmed with sand; in 
some, the stones have been appropriated to other purposes, as the 
building of dikes, houses, &c. 

Stone chests or coffins are now and then found, made up 
of four stones, arranged in the form of an oblong square. I was 
induced to get one of these, called ^^ Leac an Fhoimhear," or 
the Giants' Grave, lately opened, — judging from the name, that it 
might perhaps contain something uncommon. Nothing, however, 
was discovered but human bones in a decayed state, thrown toge- 
ther without order, and noways remarkable for their size. 

Two stone crosses, from three to four feet high, (the only 
two now remaining entire,) are still to be seen where some 
of the old chapels formerly stood. They are quite plain, without 
any ornament or inscription, and one of them resting on a stone 
socket. There are two or three upright stones or pillars, six or 
seven feet high, having one end sunk in the ground, and bearing 
no device or engraving whatever. Whether these were erected 
as mere land-marks, or in commemoration of some remarkable 
events, is not now known. 

On the north-west 3ide of this island, and somewhat above oc<- 



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^06 AUGYLESHIKE. 

dinary tide-mark, th«re is one of these pieces of rock, commonlj 
called rififfinff'Stanesj supposed to be about twelve tons weight. 
It is not balanced, or capable of being moved by a small force, as 
these stones sometimes are, being firmly supported by two or three 
small stones interposed between it and the rock beneath ; and, 
when struck by any hard body, it emits a hollow sound like a 
kettle ; heace its name of Clach a Choire, or kettle stone. 

Several old coins, chiefly copper, are reported to have been 
found from time to time, but little or no authentic information 
can be given regarding them. A small silver coin was discovered 
in a sand-bank about fourteen years ago. It was somewhat larger 
than a sixpenny piece, seemed pretty entire, and was inscribed in 
Graelic with the words Righ Callum Ceannmar, or King Malcolm 
Ceannmor, who flourished in the eleventh century, and was con- 
temporary with William the Conqueror. 

About forty years ago, a circular piece of gold, supposed t» 
have been an ornament for the arm, was found by a person while 
digging a stony knoll in a farm near the ford formerly mentioned.* 
He described it as quite circular, at least five inches in diameter, 
about one inch broad, so thin as to be easily flexible, and evidently 
intended to clasp or lock. Some decayed human bones were found 
at the same time, scattered among the earth and stones. This 
ancient relic was soon afterwards sent to Glasgow, and sold there 
for a trifle. 

The middle and principal part of Coll is an ancient possession, 
the charter having been granted to John Garve, first laird of Coll, 
and predecessor to the present family, by King James 11. The 
two extremities of that island, which were acquired by the Ar« 
gyle family at the same time with Tiree, have been latterly sold 
by his Grace, and Coll is now possessed by three proprietors. 

There are many traditionary legends of sanguinary conflicts be- 
tween the McLeans of Coll and the McNeills of Barra, who con* 
tended fiercely and with various success for the possession of that 
island, but the latter, were finally defeated and driven ofi*. Several 
places are still named from these encounters, such as Baugh 
Chlainn Neill^ the Bay of the M'Neills ; Slocltd na dmarh, 
the Pit of Havock or Destruction, a small cave or creek at the 
sea side, to which the remnant of that clan had retired for secu- 
rity, after a bloody and unsuccessful battle. 

Afterwards the Island of Coll was the scene of further bloodyooo- 
tentions. The then chief of McLean, who appears to have been of a 



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TiREB AND COLL. 207 

brave but ambitious and grasping character, formed the design of an- 
nexing that property to his own dominions, and thought the young 
hiird of Coirs minority a favourable opportunity for putting his pro- 
ject into execution. In these views he was opposed by Neil Mor, 
so called from his great strength and stature, who had the manage- 
ment of the property, and acted as guardian to his young nephew 
during his minority. An armed force having been despatched to 
subdue and take possession of the island, Neil Mor marched out 
to encounter them with such followers as he could muster to meet 
the sudden emergency. The contending partiea came to blows 
at a small rivulet, since that period called Sruthan ndn Ceann^ 
and, after a bloody battle, the invaders were overthrown with 
great slaughter* It is supposed the rivulet received its name in 
consequence of the great number of heads struck off in this en- 
gagement. 

Some tiqie afterwards, this brave and disinterested man, who 
had defended the property against all attempts to wrest it from 
the rightful owner, was treacherously surprised and slain under 
night at his residence in Mull, by a party of twenty-four armed 
men, employed by the chief for this purpose. 

In Coll, also, there are several monuments of antiquity. The 
remains of eight duns or Danish forts, and of three religious 
houses, are pointed out, of which nothing now remains but the 
foundations. The old castle at Breacacha, formerly the resi- 
dence of the proprietors, is a very ancient ediGce, having been 
built before the McLeans got possession of the island, probably 
by the Lord of the Isles. It is still in a pretty entire state, and 
the roof standing. It ceased to be inhabited perhaps one hundred 
years ago. . 

There are two upright stones or pillars, about six feet high, 
and tapering upwards, to be seen in a farm towards the west end 
of Coll, which are supposed to be very ancient They are placed 
about fifteen yards asunder, and reported by tradition to mark the 
burying-place of some one of the Fingalian race. A few stone 
coffins have also been met with, containing nothing but decayed 
human bones. 

Some coins have been occasionally discovered. A considerable 
number of silver coins were dug up about twelve years ago, and 
are believed to have been kept by the late proprietor ; but, with 
regard to their date, or any inscription upon them, no information 
has transpired. 



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208 



ARGTLESHIRE. 



There is a parish register likewise kept in ColL The earliest 
entry is dated 1732, but the day and month are onutted. It ap- 
pears to have been pretty regularly kept since that period* 

Modem Buildings. — The only buildings of this description 
entitled to notice, are those connected with the light-house pro- 
posed to be erected on Sceir-Mhor, several of which have been 
already built, or are now in progress, such as houses for the ac* 
commodation of the tradesmen and workmen employed, working 
sheds, coal and boat-houses, smithies, &c. But the most import- 
ant of them is a signal or watch-tower, upwards of thirty feet high, 
now nearly finished, which is intended to communicate by signal 
or telegraph with the light-house, and also to serve as a beacon 
to any vessels or boats coming to the pier under night. These 
are all built of granite and other ordinary materials. 

III. — Population. 
No authentic information can be obtained regarding the amount 
of population previous to the year 1755, at which time the popu- 
lation of Tiree was stated at 1509, and of CoU at 1193; total, 
2702. 

In 1831, the population of Tiree was 4458 

Coll » 1316 





Total, 


, 


5769 




In 1841, the population of Tiree and CoU 


was 5846 






Tiree. 




Coll. 


Total. 


Number under 15 years of age. 


1875 




542 


2417 


from 15 to 30, 


1309 




356 


1665 


30 to 50, 


926 




313 


1239 


50 to 70, 


482 




150 


632 


upwards of 70, 


95 




48 


143 




4687 




1409 


G^ 


Annual average of baptisms. 


143 




44 


187 


marriages, 


241 




6 


S* 


'deaths say, 


94 




28 


122 


Unmarried men above 50 years. 


65 




9 


74 


women above 45, 


101 




21 


128 


Number of insane persons. 


8 




4 


12 


blind, 


. 6 




8 


a 


ded; . 


. . 3 







3 


dumb. 


1 




1 


2 



The average number of children in each family may be estimated in Tiree at 4 
^ ... ... CoU at 34 

There are of proprietors possessing lands of the yearly value 
of L.50 and upwards, four, of whom only one presently resides 
in the parish. 

* It may be proper to state that no register of deaths is kept ; but, by comparing 
the number of baptisms with the rate of increase, and making a small allowance fat a 
few persons who occasionally remove from the parish, a sufficiently accurate estiroattf 
of the number may be formed. 



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TIRKE AND COLL. 



209 



luanguage^ Customs^ Sfc. — Gaelic is the language almost uiii- 
tersally used among the lower orders. If not actually 'losing 
ground, it is certainly a good deal corrupted by a mixture ot Eng- 
lish words and phrases, in consequence of their frequent inter- 
course with the low country. 

With regard to diet or manner of living,^ the people follow 
a pretty low regimen, perhaps as much from necessity as from 
choice. Plei^h meat is seldom used among them, their ordinary 
food being potatoes, barley and oatmeal, milk and fish. Until of 
late years, when poverty laid its iron hand upon them, in common 
with their other countrymen in the Highlands, it might be justly 
said that they were a cheerful, happy, and contented people. 

There is one custom still prevalent, which calls loudly for 
a reformation, — a custom now happily confined to a few remote 
parts of the country : drinking of ardent spirits at funerals. It 
is quite melancholy to consider what sums are worse than thrown 
away in this manner. There are instances of poor families part* 
ingwith their last horse or cow, to furnish an entertainment of this 
kind. They reckon it a point of honour to do so ; and thus what 
might have contributed to their support for a twelvemonth is wasted 
in a day, to keep up a savage and disgusting custom. 

Illicit distillation was formerly carried on here to a considera- 
ble extent ; but has been strictly prohibited and suppressed 
for the last twenty-five or thirty years. Some legal stills were 
afterwards employed to supply a market for the superfluous bar- 
ley of the island ; but the duties being then high, these were 
soon discontinued as an unprofitable concern. A good deal 
of smuggled whisky used also to be. imported formerly from the 
north of Ireland and other places. The pernicious influence of 
this trafiic on the character and morals of any people, wherever it 
has been of long continuance, is universally known and acknow- 



The people in general are intelligent and enterprising. 
They possess much of the spirit of traflBc, and carry on a pretty 
constant trade in country produce with the low -country, espe- 
cially with Glasgow. It cannot be denied, however, that this 
frequent intercourse with the low country has its disadvantages as 
well as advantages. It is apt to infect them with a spirit of ava- 
rice and lucre, not always solicitous about the fittest means of ac- 
quiring money, and to incline them to overreach one another in 
their transactions, as may be inferred from their frequent disputes 

AROYLE. o 



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21^ ARfiYLESHIRE. 

and complaints. It must be confessed, that a tendency towards 
intemperance is still pretty apparent,— the consequence of the 
old custom of smuggling and illegal distillation : yet it may be 
added, that a great change in this respect has already taken place, 
and that there is not, moderately speaking, one-fourth of the quan- 
tity of spirituous liquors now used, which was formerly consumed 
among them. I cannot affirm that they are ve/y exemplary in 
the performance of their religious duties, or punctual in their at- 
tendance on divine ordinances. Some apology, no doubt, may be 
found for many of them. The parish church is inconveniently 
situated, and distant from great numbers. Scantiness of clothing 
also deters many from attending public worship. 

On solemn occasions, such as a communion Sabbath, nothing can 
exceed the propriety and decorum with which they invariably con- 
duct themselves. They are extremely civil and obliging in their 
language and manners, very tractable and easily managed, kind 
and hospitable to strangers, and uncommonly humane and charita- 
ble to the poor. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — Though Tiree has been a good deal noted as an 
agricultural island, and though a considerable quantity of produce 
is annually raised and exported, yet the crops in general are light 
and of inferior quality, the bear seldom exceeding 45 pounds 
weight per bushel. Several circumstances, some of which admit 
of remedy, contribute to this result. The greater part of the soil 
is light and sandy, and scarcely capable of carrying a heavy crop. 
Sea-weed is chiefly used in its simple state, which is not con- 
sidered a good manure, and though it may stimulate the ground 
to produce a crop, by laying it on in abundance, it is not thought 
to enrich or impart much substance to the soil. The possessions 
in many cases are so small,* that nothing like a regular rotation 
Can be observed, and the same spot is necessarily kept in con- 
stant tillage till it is quite out of heart, and becomes unpro- 
ductive. The seed of all kind is sown much thicker than is 
common elsewhere, nor is it changed sufficiently often to 
prevent its degenerating. The sowing season is also late, es- 
pecially of barley, which is not finished till the middle of June. 
The wetness of the ground may indeed be an apology to many 
for adopting the practice of late sowing, but it is not the univer- 
sal cause. It is likely that, in consequence of this, the crops 

* There arc several crofb paying onlj L, 1 rent, and at least one under tbat som. 

4 



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TIHEE AND COLL. 211 

spring up too rapidly during the heat of summer, ripen too fast, 
and do not fill properly. The increase is accordingly small ; the 
average returns from potatoes being 8 seeds, from biear and large 
oats, 4, and from small or black oats from 2 to 8. Of late years, 
the people seem to be more attentive in some of these respects. 
They are getting into the practice of compounding their manure, 
and also of changing their seed more frequently ; the good effect 
of which is beginning to be already visible. Here it may be pro- 
per to notice a great natural disadvantage, to which part of Tiree 
is liable, and which I fear is incurable, viz. the drifting or blowing of 
sand, which commits great devastation from year to year. Some of 
the farms, especially on the west and north-west coast, have been in a 
great measure ruined by this circumstance. When the surface of a 
sand-bank or eminence once gives way or is broken, it never ceases to 
blow till reduced nearly to a level ; and the neighbouring lands are 
sometimes covered by it to a great extent. The clouds of sand 
carried away in this manner have, at a distance, very much the ap- 
pearance of a snow storm. I have been informed by persons now 
living, that they remember cutting down fields of barley, and hay 
in places which are now a barren sandy waste, in consequence of 
this frequent and destructive visitation. 

In Coll, notwithstanding the general rockiness of the ground, 
the crops are much more productive. The inhabitants of that 
island have been always remarked as an industrious, hard-working 
race of people. In many situations, a plough will hardly work, and 
they are in the habit of carrying on a considerable portion of their 
agricultural operations with the spade, which, though a more te- 
dious and laborious process, is found in the end to be more pro- 
fitable. They finish their sowing a month earlier, and their ave- 
rage increase is much more considerable than here. 

When the crofts are small, it is customary in Tiree for two 
neighbouring crofters to join for a plough. The number of 
ploughs altogether employed may be estimated at ddO, and in 
Coll at 64. 



Number of hDp«ri«l acres cultivated in Tiree, 

waste or in pasture, • . • 10,747 

covered wiib water, . . 756 

Total, 17,327 



that might be added to the cultivated land, say, . 300 
in a state of undivided common, . 5645 

Not much has been done in Tiree, in the way of improv- 

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212 ARGYLESHIRE. 

ing the land. The present occupiers do not seem to have 
much skill or experience, io general, in conducting such opera- 
tions, and, in truth, have many serious natural obstacles to 
contend with. In several situations, there is much diflScuity in 
draining off the water, owing to the level nature of the ground. In 
many instances, also, stone for inciosures is very scarce, and can- 
not be obtained without blasting or quarrying at a great expense; 
and it can hardly be expected that tenants possessing little capital 
will willingly lay it out for such purposes. In other cases, where 
sand-blowing is prevalent, they might with reason consider any ex- 
pense of this kind as thrown away, for the work of years might be 
overwhelmed in a few days, or at best would require constant la- 
bour to keep it in a serviceable state. Still, a great deal might 
unquestionably be accomplished in these respects by tenants of 
some capital and experience, having suitable encouragement, 
which need never be expected while the occupier is in a state of 
poverty, and bis tenure uncertain. Tacksmen, or holders of large 
possessions, generally get leases of nineteen years duration ; but 
no leasee have been granted to crofters or small tenantry for the 
last twenty years. It was probably considered expedient to retain 
such a check over them, and to make the tenant's tenure depend 
in a great measure on good behaviour; it being found very diflS- 
cult, in some instances, to get quit of a refractory person holding a 
lease, however irregular or immoral his conduct might be. Under 
liberal humane landlords, such as it has been the lot of this parish 
to enjoy for some generations, this circumstance may not be of so 
much importance, especially if their agents are men of similar 
sentiments, desirous to promote the comfort and welfare of the 
people; but under arbitrary sway, the situation of the tenant can- 
not be reckoned very secure or enviable. 

Farm buildings, more especially enclosures, are accordingly, as 
might be expected, in rather a backward state. Indeed, for four 
or five months in the year, t. e. from the time the crops and pota- 
toes are secured, till the sowing season comes on, the lands appear 
to be almost in common, and the cattle to range backward and 
forward at pleasure, and without molestation. All this may be 
reckoned excellent neighbourhood, but I fear it can i^carcely be 
called good farming. 

Tacksmen get nineteen years lease in Coll, as here. Crofters 
in that island obtain seven years leases. They have certainly 
been very industrious in clearing their ground of stones; and a 



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TIREE AND COLL. 213 

good deal has been done in the way of draining, in closing, and 
otherwise improving waste lands, especially by Mr Campbell, 
tacksman of Breachacha, presently acting as factor to Mr 
MacLean of Coll, who is allowed to be an active and judici- 
ous Highland agriculturist. 

Cattle, ifc — The cattle reared in Tiree are not in general reck- 
oned of very good quality, and, according to the present system of 
management, can hardly be expected to be so. Crofters have no 
winter pasture, and the utmost they can often do is to keep their 
cows from starving, during the winter and spring. Owing to the 
fineness of the grass, and want of heather, they are not so hardy, 
nor do they stand driving to market so well, as many other cattle, 
and are, moreover, liable to certain distempers, which affect their 
value, so that dealers are not fond of purchasing them, except at 
reduced prices. 

The black-cattle in Coll are much superior in quality, and may be 
estimated at L.2 per head higher in value. The price of cows 
there may be reckoned at from L.5 to L.8; in Tiree, from 1 1.3 
to L.6. 

Some sheep stocks have been lately introduced into both islands, 
chiefly of the Cheviot and black-faced breed ; but the experiment 
has not been tried for a sufficient length of time to enable us to 
form an opinion how it may succeed. The annual and ordinary 
rate of grazing is from L.1, 10s. to L.2 per cow, including fodder 
or hand-feeding during the winter and spring; and from 5s. to 8s. 
per sheep. A horse's grass is considered equivalent to that of 
two cows. 

For some years back, a great number of pigs have been reared 
in this parish, and are found to be a very profitable kind of stock. 
They are generally exported alive chiefly to Glasgow and Green- 
ock, where they meet with a ready demand, and fetch tolerable 
prices. Last spring upwards of 500 of them were shipped off 
from this island; and their price at home varies from L.1, 10s. to 
L.2, 10s. or L.a* 

* The prices of country produce not enumerated above, are as follow : Potatoes, 
from Is. 6d. to 4s. per barrel, ordinary price about 2s. 6d. ; bear, from L.1 to L. 1,7s. 
per quarter ; large oats, from L.1, Is. to L.l, 7s. per do. ; wedders, from I2s. to 18s. 
according to kind and quality ; Iambs, from 6a. to 12b. ; eggs, 4d. per down ; pair 
fowls from Is. 6d. to 28. ; pair ducks, the same ; pair geese, os. ; butter, lOd. per lb. ;. 
cheese, from 4d. to 6d. per lb. But it may be observed, that of these latter articles, 
irery little is sold, and that they are not worth specifying in the general amount of 
produce. 



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214 ARGYLESHIRE. 

Annually exported from Tiree. Annually exported from ColL 

Black-cattle, including stirks, 465 Black-cattle, including stirka, 900 

Sheep, . aOO Sheep, . aoo 

Horses, 48 Horses, . . 20 

Pigs, . 500 Pigs, 100 

Rate of WageSi Sfc. — Domestic and farm-servants are hired dur- 
ing the year or half-year ; and the wages given to male servants 
are from L.6 to L.8; to females from L.d to L.3, IDs. or L.4 
per annum. Tradesmen and artisans are generally paid by the 
day, and receive 2s. or 2s. 6d. besides their victuals, which are 
always provided by their employer. 

A great part of the young unmarried population, especially of 
females, are in the habit of resorting every year to the low coun** 
try in quest of harvest employment Hundreds of these set off 
about the middle of August, and are generally absent from six tr> 
eight weeks. I fear it cannot be reckoned a profitable kind of 
service, any wages which they earn being chiefly bestowed on su* 
perfluous finery, not much suited to their means or rank in life. 
They also frequently bring home in iheir train several infectious 
and dangerous disorders, such as smalKpoz, measles, typhas fever, 
&c. which afterwards spread through the country, and occasion 
much mischief. 

QuarrtVf.— There is no quarry wrouglit at present except that 
at Heynish, for building the intended light-house on Sceir-Mhor. 
This quarry has been carried on, for some years back, on a large 
scale. Between tradesmen, quarriers, labourers, &c« upwards of a 
hundred persons are sometimes employed upon it during the sum* 
mer season. The rocks, which are a kind of hard granite, are 
blown chiefly, I believe, by means of gunpowder ; and large blocks, 
some of them weighing a couple of tons and upwards, arc in the 
course of being dressed and prepared. The rock is very solid, and 
difficult to work ; but when dressed looks extremely well. 

Fisheries. — This is undoubtedly a very important branch of in^ 
dustry, although it does not appear to have been hitherto prose* 
cuted with the activity and perseverance which it deserves. With 
plenty of fish in our waters, and industrious hands to take it, we 
need not be very apprehensive about actual starvation among our 
poor people, unless the potato crops should unfortunately fail a9 
in the year 1837. Though almost all are occasional fishers, yet 
few follow it steadily as a profession. Out of 94 fishing skiffs 
which the parish contains, only 10 are regularly employed. 
There are no fishings here which pay rent. Cod and ling 
are the only kinds, which are cured and sent to market. The cod 



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tlREE AND COLL. 215 

fishing is carried on during the year : the iing fishing commences 
towards the end of spring, and ends about mid-summer. Neither 
kind is prosecuted in Coll. The herring-fishing has never been 
practised here. Though shoals of them unquestionably frequent 
the coast at certain seasons, there are no bays or lochs to afford 
Uiem shelter, and the deep sea-fishing is quite unknown. 

During the last twelve or fifteen years this island has been re- 
gularly frequented by fishermen from Aberdeenshire, who come 
to prosecute the ling- fishing. They commence their operations, 
weather permitting, about the beginning of April, and finish about 
the middle of June. The superiority of these enterprizing strangers 
to the native fishers was soon apparent. They have powerful 
boats of 18 tons burden, able to encounter any ordinary weather, 
each accompanied by a small one, and carrying a compliment of 
six men. They choose their fishing ground on the north-west 
side of the island,* and set their lines at a distance of fifteen 
miles from the land. Each boat cures and carries to market 
about ten tons, which is sold at from L.16 to L.20 per ton. 
Taking the average price at L. 18, we have L.180 for each boat, 
— no bad remuneration for little more than a couple of months 
employment. 

The native fishing-boats are but slight cockle-shells compared- 
to these, and take up their fishing-station on the east and south- 
east side, as being less exposed to the turbulence of the Atlantic, 
and more convenient to places of shelter. Five men are common- 
ly concerned about each boat. Their tackling of all kinds may 
be reckoned far inferior ; for few or none of them have means 
at command to purchase good boats, or to fit them out pro- 
perly. In addition to these disadvantages, it is doubtful whe- 
ther they possess the dexterity and perseverance of thieir Aber • 
d eenshire competitors : they might, at all events, take an useful 
lesson from them. 

Each of the country fishing-boats cures from 1^ to *2 tons ling, 
in the season ; which is commonly sold at home at prices varying 
from L.14 to L.16 per ton. 

It may not be improper to notice, that shoals of small whales 
sometimes frequent our bays ; and the people have become very 
expert at driving them ashore with boats. If one is wounded, 

* It is generally admitted that the fish of almost every kind caught on the western 
coast of these islands is much sux>erior in quality to that taken on the opposite or 
eastern side. 



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L.2582 


Do. 


in CoU, L.1250 


4424 




— 1600 


Ki, 215 
ret, 




— 160 

— 15 


2976 




— 1267 
^ 126 


412 




— 



216 ARGYLE8HIRE. 

it makes for the shore of its owd accord, and the rest follow ; 
so that out of a whole shoal, hardly one escapes. They are 
commonly from 15 to 20 feet long, and their blubber yields 
about a barrel of oil, each. For some years, they have discoDti- 
nued their visits. 

Produce. — The average gross amount of produce annually raised 
in the parish, so far as could be ascertained, may be estimated as 
follows : 

Grain of all kinds raised in Tiree, 
Potatoes and other plants, 
Hay, whether meadow or cultivated, 
Flax, or other crops for manufactures, 
Paitture, horses included, 
Wool, 
'Fish cured and sold, 

L. 10,609 L.4418 

Manufactures. — The only article of manufacture entitled to no* 
tice is the kelp, which, however, may now be spoken of as one of 
those things which have been. At one time, about 500 tons of it 
were made in Tiree, which employed at least one*half of the 
adult population during the season. Several farms not only paid 
their rent with kelp, but in some cases even got back considerable 
balances ; for the proprietor was then in the practice of allowing 
the tenants a certain price for their kelp, and sending it himself to 
market. The manufacturing price was from L. 2 to L.2, 10s. per 
ton. The quantity has been gradually diminishing, and since 1837 
none has been made. 

The island of Coll formerly produced about 1 50 tons a-year, and 
employed 140 adults. The manufacturing price varied from L. 2 
to L.3, 10s., according to the ruggedness of the shore, and other 
diflSculties. The quantity last made there amounted to 80 tons ; 
and for the last four or five years, the manufacture of it has 
entirely ceased. 

Shipping. — In Tiree there are 4 decked vessels, carrying from 
twenty to forty tons burden, which are sometimes employed in 
carrying coiintry produce to market, but generally look out for 
employment elsewhere; 20 open, or half-decked boats, of from 
six to twenty tons, which are chiefly engaged in ferrying cattle^ 

* The fish cured by the Aberdeenshire fishermen is included. As to the fish 
annually consumed at home, 1 found it impossible to ascertain the quantity or talue. 
After consulting sereral persons of experience. I am of opinion it will be a Yery mo- 
derate estimate to allow an average of 1..1, ds. for each fiimily in Tiree, s L.960, 
and 15a. for each family in CoU, » L.192, which might bt added to the above. 



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TIREE AND COLL. 217 

and conveying fuel from the neighbouring islands ; and 82 fishing* 
skiffs, of which only 10 are regularly employed. 

In Coll, there are 2 decked vessels from eighteen to twenty- 
five tons ; three open or half-decked boats from six to twenty tons ; 
and 12 fishing-skiffs, of which none is regularly employed. 





Id TIree. 


In Coll. 


Total. 


Decked vessels, 


4 


2 


6 


Half-decked, 


20 


8 


23 


Fisbing.8ki£f8, 


ftJ 


12 


94 



V. — Parochial Economy. 

There is no market-town in the parish, the nearest to which 
that name may be applied being Oban, which is fifty-six miles dis- 
tant. Nor is there any thing to be called a village, if we may ex- 
cept Arinangour in Coll, which contains 171 inhabitants. 

Means of Communication. — There is a sub-post-offi(5^ to To- 
bermory, both in Tiree and Coll ; but there has been no packet in 
either island for some years. Our means of communication are 
accordingly extremely irregular and uncertain,, depending on any 
casual conveyance which may occur. A tolerable packet to To- 
bermory might be kept up for L.45 or L.50 per annum. The 
Duke of Argyle used formerly to allow L.15 to assist for this 
purpose; and it is understood that the General Post- Office was 
willing to allow all the revenue derived from the office here. 

In addition to many inconveniences incident to a remote lo- 
cality, the harbours, — which are of primary importance in all in- 
sular situations — are here but very indifferent ; in consequence of 
which, all the boats in Tiree, great and small, are hauled 
up high and dry during four months in the year, or from the 
end of November to the end of March. During this time, the 
island is nearly locked up from all intercourse with other coun- 
tries, unless it is found necessary to launch a light skiff occasion- 
ally, when a good day occurs. The harbour chiefly frequented, 
and where the cattle and most of the other produce are shipped 
off, is Scarinish, situated on the south-east side of the island. It 
is but a narrow creek, with a rock at its entrance sometimes cover- 
ed with water, which renders the access very difficult, and the 
egress still more so, except with a favourable wind. A pier has 
been long built there, but it is scarcely capable of ever being 
made a secure place. The only other harbour is Accarsaid, 
or " the Harbour," (so called, I suppose, by way of eminence,) 
lying near the eastern extremity. It is reckoned safer than the 
first; but the entrance to it is extremely rocky and intricate, and 
should never be attempted by strangers. I have already noticed. 



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218 ARGYLESHIRE. 

that a new pier has been partly built at Heinish, which, when 
completed, may be of much seryice to that quarter of the island. 
. The only harbour in Coll worthy of notice is at Arinangour, 
about the midle of the island. It has a pier, and is pretty safe ; 
but has also the disadvantage of a rocky entrance. 

As to the means of internal communication, we are indebted to 
nature for some fine sandy beaches, on which horses and carts can 
travel with ease and comfort ; but we have certainly no reason to 
boast of what art has effected in this respect. Some of the roads 
attempted to be made are worse than in a state of nature : it is 
very difficult, in many places, to carry away the water and prevent 
its overflowing them. The line leading from the harbour to the 
mill, one of the most important in the whole island, is in a wretched 
conditionfand, in winter, sometimes quite impassable to carts. A 
great deal might be done under the superintendence of a person 
of experience and skill ; but it does not appear that the labour of 
the people has hitherto been turned to much account, or properly 
directed to these objects. In fact, till there is a chamberlain re- 
siding in the place, it cannot be expected that such matters will 
be duly attended to. 

Markets are held in both islands in May, August, and October, 
solely for the sale of black-cattle. There are no charitable insti- 
tutions in the parish ; nor is there a jail, though such would, at 
times, be very desirable. 

InnSi Ifc — There are two licensed inns in Tiree, and one in Coll; 
but it is to be observed^ that several low illicit tippling^houses, 
which have a very pernicious effect on the morals of the people, 
have been springing up of late in this island, especially on the 
farms contiguous to the Light-house work, as if intended chiefly 
for the persons there employed, who have generally some money 
at command, and might be expected to be profitable customers* 

Fuel,^' Among the natural disadvantages under which Tiree la- 
bours, scarcity of fuel may be considered as one of the most con- 
siderable. The only peat-moss in the island, which is of vefy 
inferior quality, accommodates only a few families in its neigh- 
bourhood, and is now nearly exhausted. The people are conse- 
quently obliged to bring their fuel, with great labour and at a 
heavy expense, some from Mull and some from Coll. I scarcely 
conceive how poor families, who have no boats of their own, can 
afford the hiring of boats for this purpose, and other unavoidable 
expenses attending them. If any value is set on their own labour, 



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TIREE AND COLL. 219 

as should reftzKKiably be done, the average expense to each family 
cannot be reckoned less than L. 4 per annum. Supposing that, 
out of 768 families, 500 import their fuel in this manner, we have 
an annual expense of Lu2000 in the article of fuel alone. Coll is 
more fortunate in this respecL There the people have fuel 
enough and to spare, which costs them nothing but their labour. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is by no means conve- 
niently placed for the greater part of the population, being situat- 
ed in a corner, four and a half miles distant from one extremity of 
the island, and eight and a half from the other. It was built in 
the year 1776; and enlarged in 1786 ; and, though it has under- 
gone several repairs of late years, it cannot be said to be in a suf- 
ficient state. It may accommodate about 500 persons, but was 
never regularly seated. All the seats are free. 

The manse was built in 1632, and, being found insufficiently 
executed, was repaired in 1838. It is still far from being com- 
fortable. The glebe contains about 30 acres, the land being 
mostly of very inferior quality. It is not worth L.5 per annum. 
The stipend amounts to 213 bolls, I firlot, I peck, i lippies bear; 
70 bolls, I firlot, I peck, 1^ lippies meal; and L.395, 17s. Gd* 
Scots money, burdened with an annual tack-duty of L.22, 48. 5d. 
to the Synod of Argyle, and also with a salary to an assistant, as 
will presently be stated. 

There are no Government churches or missionaries in the parish ; 
but there is an assistant residing in Coll, who has a legal provision 
of Lf.580, 2s. 6d. Scots money, 1 1 bolls, 2 firlots bear, and 3 bolls, 
3 firlots, 1 peck, 1^ lippies meal, varying of late years from L.62 
to L.65 per annum. The church there is situated about the mid- 
dle of the island, was built about the year 1802, and is in tolera- 
ble condition. It accommodates about 3.'>0 sitters. I'bere is one 
catechist in the parish connected with the Established Church, 
and having a small salary from the funds of the Synod of Argyle. 
There are no Episcopalians or Cathojics ; but there are some 
Dissenters, chiefly of the Independent persuasion, and a few Bap- 
tists, each sect having a preacher and meeting-house of their own. 
When the last list was made out, they consisted of 13 families, of 
which 3 or 4 were Baptists. Some families have joined them 
since. The Baptist emissary, a self-authorized preacher, is em- 
ployed, as I am informed, by the Baptist Missionary Society at a 
salary of L.20 per annum. The Independent, when inquiry was 
made, declined to give any information as to the means or amount . 



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220 ARGYLESHIRE. 

of his support. There is another station where public worship is 
performed every alternate Sabbath. In the parish church the 
number may be estimated at 400 in summer, and from 150 to 
200 m winter ; at the other station 300 in summer, and 200 in 
winter. The average number of communicants at the parish 
church is about 600, and in Coll near 300. In Coll there are no 
dissenting preachers, and all the families generally attend the Es- 
tablished Church. 

Education. — There was formerly but one parochial school in 
Tiree ; but this being found quite insuflScient, another was 
established about the year 1804 : and it would be wrong 
not to mention that the Noble proprietor, father to the present 
Duke of Argyle, with the liberality becoming bis rank and cha- 
racter, allowed to each of the teachers the maximum salary, toge- 
ther with the accommodation of house and lands, which has 
been since continued. The salary is L.22, 4s., and the amount 
of school fees from L.4 to Im5 per annum to each. A consider- 
able time ago, a school was appointed by the Gaelic School So- 
ciety, in which nothing but the reading of the Gaelic Scriptures 
is taught, with a salary to the master of L.25 and no fees. And 
more lately a school was granted by the Committee of the General 
Assembly, with a salary of L.20, fees amounting to about L.2, 
10s. In addition to the abovp, there are five schools supported 
by the people themselves, with salaries varying from L.10 to 
ill 8^ From some of these much benefit cannot be expected, 
and they might almost as well be suppressed, the teachers be- 
ing inexperienced country lads, some of them very indiflferently 
qualified. Some parts of the island, with a large population, are 
three or four miles distant from the parochial schools ; and whe« 
ther the distance or the numbers are considered, there is certainly 
field enough still for two, if not three, respectable additional 
schools. 

In Coll, there is a school supported by the Committee of the Ge- 
neral Assembly, with a salary of L.25, amount of fees being 1^2, 
10s. ; a school supported by the Society for Propagating Christian 
Knowledge, with a salary of L.16, and fees about L.2; and an* 
other supported by the Glasgow Auxiliary Society, salary L.12, 
and amount of fees Lb6. There was also a Gaelic school in Coll, 
which has been discontinued since May last Part of the popu* 
latiou, probably 120, are distant from three to five miles kom 
any school, and an additional one would be very desirable. 



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TIllEE AND COLL. 221 

Parochial achoola in Tiree, - 2 Do. in CoU, . 

Endowed,* - - 1 - ... - I 

Unendowedf • .5 ...•>- 

Supported by societies, - 1 ... - 2 

Total in Ttree, - 9 Total in Coll, 8 

No. in Tiree between 6 and 15 years who cannot read or write, 426 In Coll, 84 
upwards of 15 who cannot read or write, - 1255 ... 150 

Parochial Funds. — The provision for the poor of the parish is 
but low, there being no assessment for this purpose. They are 
chiefly supported, as formerly observed, by the private charity of 
the inhabitants. 

In Tiree the average No. receiving parochial aid is 58 In Coll, 40 

the an. amount distrib. among them is about L.24 L. 7 

of which the church col. amount at an av. to 3100 3160 

and the av. sum allowed to each per an. is about 8 8 6 

The only source, besides church collections, from which the 
poor derive aid, is a tax on marriages, and fines imposed for cer- 
tain delinquencies. In some urgent cases, a little aid is occasion- 
ally given to persons who are not on the poor's roll. There ap- 
pears to be no reluctance on the part of the poor to apply for pa« 
rochial relief, nor do they seem to think it at all degrading. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

The chief feature which seems to distinguish the present state 
of the parish from that which existed at the date of the last Sta- 
tistical Account, is the great increase of population, and what has 
resulted, in a great measure, as a consequence from it, the greater 
poverty of the people. The great depression which took place in 
the value of produce soon after the conclusion of the last war, and 
the total failure of the kelp manufacture since that period, gave 
a severe blow to many parts of the Highlands and Islands. 
From this last source, many proprietors formerly derived a hand- 
some revenue, and the people found employment for themselves 
and their families, accompanied with a fair remuneration for their 
labour. This resource is now entirely cut off. 

It seems to be now universally admitted, that in the Highlands and 
Islands in general, there is a great superabundance of population,— 
and to no part of the country, so far as my acquaintance ex- 
tends, is the observation more applicable than to this island. The 
present crisis in the state of the population seems to have been acce- 
lerated here by the system of crofting, or dividing the land into mi- 
nute portions, — a system adopted at first with the humane inten- 
tion of accommodating as many poor families as possible, but 
which afforded only a very temporary relief, and I fear has 

* In the number of thoae endowed I reckon the two General Assembly schools. 

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222 AUGYLESHIKE. 

been the means of increasing the evil. It is no uncommon 
practice with such tenants to subdivide their lots of land among 
their families, when they grow up; and thus a croft originally 
designed for the maintenance of one family, and perhaps 
scarcely sufficient for that purpose, is frequently portioned 
among two or three, and the whole are reduced to poverty. It 
would be cruel and unjust to debar a man, when disabled by 
age and infirmities, from employing the services and aid of his fa- 
mily ; but some salutary and restrictive regulations might be en- 
forced. A further cause of the increase of numbers and destitu- 
tion is, the great swarm of cottars' families, or persons without 
any regular holding. I need only mention that this island con- 
tains about 900 such families, who are a dead burden on the te- 
nantry. 

Any permanent means of relief from such evils as these must 
he left chiefly to the discretion and humanity of proprietors them- 
selves. 

Emigration seems to be the great resource ; and the pro- 
prietors must either assist them to accomplish this measure, 
or apply to the Legislature to hold out encouragement and aid. 

It is somewhat singular, that this parish should have been almost 
always destitute of a medical practitioner.' This may be reckoned 
another of our disadvantages; and it is a melancholy consideration, 
that many useful lives may be lost, as undoubtedly they are at 
times, through the want of timely medical aid. Even when such 
aid is called from other countries, at an expense which few can 
think of incurring, the state of the weather may prevent its arriving 
in time to be of service. Several young medical men have, from 
time to time, tried the experiment of practising here, in the expec- 
tation of a certain salary ; but have found the remuneration so un- 
certain and ill' paid, that in a short time they have thrown up the 
situation in disgust • And yet, between the two islands, it might be 
supposed that a respectable salary could be made up for such a 
person without much difficulty, and without being a burden on any 
one, provided it could be duly proportioned among the families 
interested, and collected by the factors along with the rents. This 
seems to be the only practicable plan. 

Drawn up March 1840. 
BevUed Augu9t 184& 



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UNITED PARISH OF 

LISMORE AND APPIN. 

PRESBYTERY OF LORN, SYNOD OF AROYLE. 

THE REV. GREGOR MCGREGOR, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
The united parish of Lismore and Appin was formerly called 
the parish of Kilmaluag, from Saint Malocus, the tutelar saint of 
the parish, who is said by some to have lived in the seventh cen- 
tury, but by others probably about 1 lt>0. We are not informed 
of the place either of his birth or of his death ; but his bones are 
said to have been translated to Lismore, and the spot where they 
were landed is still pointed out, and is called Portmaluag, or Mo- 
locus' landing place. Near this landing place, there are to be 
seen the remains of a building, which tradition says was a 
church built on the spot where the saint's bones first touched Lis- 
more ground. Lismore was a Bishop's see, the seat of the Bishop 
of the Isles, and, at a certain period, of Argyle ; for when that 
county was erected into a diocese, (being separated from that of 
Dunkeld upon a petition presented to the Pope, by John the Eng- 
lishman, Bishop of Dunkeld,) — the bishop of the new diocese fixed 
bis residence here, and the ruins of his castle are still to be seen* 
The upper parts of Appin belonged, at some remote period, to the 
parish of Eleanmunde, or islandof Saint Munde^ who was abbot and 
confessor in Argyle, about the middle of the tenth century. The 
island of St Munde is situated in Lochleven, near the place where 
the river Coe, which runs through the celebrated glen of that 
name, discharges itself into the Loch. It contains the ruins of a 
church, which, from the style of its architecture, does not appear to 
have been of a very ancient date. The parish of Eleanmunde com- 
prehended Glencoe and the adjacent parts of the braes of Appin, 
on the south side of Lochleven, and the districts of Mamore and 



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224 AUOVLESUIRE. 

Onieh, on the north towards Fort- William ; and, accordingly^ al- 
though the inhabitants of Glencoe and Onieh respectively belong 
now to different parishes, as we shall see presently, still they bury 
their dead in the burying-ground of their original parish at Eleaa- 
munde. There the ashes of their fathers rest, and there they 
bury their children. It is well known, that, during the dark ages 
of the church, particularly between the years 900 and 1200, there 
were many parishes united, through the influence of selfish parties, 

« who sought to diminish the number of the clergy, and to apply to 
their own purposes the patrimony of the suppressed parishes; and 
it was probably about that period, that the parish of Eleanmuude 
was dismembered, and Mamore and Onieh attached to Kilmaly, 
and Glencoe, &c. attached to Appin, which, in its turn, was joined 
to Kilmaluag, or Lismore. The modern style of the church of 
Saint Munde would seem to nullify this supposition, but the diffi- 
culty is in a great measure removed by the fact, that, since the 
Reformation, and perhaps before it, until a missionary on the 
Royal Bounty establishment was placed in Glencoe and Glene- 
tive, the minister of Lismore was obliged to officiate four times a 
year in Glencoe, and it is likely enough, that the people would 

. on these occasions resort to their former place of worship to hear 
Divine service, and would therefore keep the church in repair for 
many years, after it ceased to be the principal place of worship 
in the parish. It is not improbable, that, after the Reforma- 
tion, the people, who disclaimed every thing Popish, would pull 
down the Popish church of St Munde, and build on its ruins the 
plain fabrick whose remains are now to be seen, there to meet 
their minister, when he visited them once a quarter. It may be ob* 
served in this place, that the Island of St Munde is the joint pro- 
perty of Sir Duncan Cameron of Fassfern and Callard, on the 
north side of Lochleven, and of Mr McDonald of Glencoe on the 
south side, and that these gentlemen have, within the last few 
years, with very proper spirit, planted it, — which, in a few years 
hence, will give it an interesting and romantic appearance, and 
will add greatly to the beauty of the surrounding scenery. 

Name. — Lismore signiGes a great garden^ being a compound 
of the two Gaelic terms, Lios, a garden^ and Mor, greats pni- 
bably from the exceeding richness of its soil, and its being situ- 
ated, like a garden in a desert, in the centre of a country much 
less fertile than itself, and which it supplies in a great measure 
with the necessary commodities of life. The term Appin is of 



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LI8MORB AND APPIN. 225 

doubtful signification. Some take it to be a contraction of Ap. 
ennine, from the mountainous appearance of the country ; but the 
true signification seems to be Abbot's land, from Abba, Ab- 
batf and fonn, Uxnd^ written Abb-fhon, and pronounced Abb- 
onn, the /A being silent ; and as the vowels o and i are, in the 
Irish language, interchangeable, the word might be written Abb- 
f hin, pronounced Abb-inn, and from this compound the Anglified 
term Appin would be very easily obtained. 

Extent and Tcpographical Appearances. — The island of Lismore 
is 10 miles long, and averages about 1^ mile in breadth; and Kin- 
gerloch, a district of the parish of Lismore, and separated from 
Lismore and Appin by Linne-sheilich, is about 16 miles long and 
4 miles broad. Prom Shian ferry, which is the south-west point 
of Appin, to the King's House at the head of Glencoe, there are 
88 measured miles, and, from thence to the confines of the parish 
and of the county of Argyle at Crnach or Rannoch moor, are 10 
miles more, making the length of Appin, from south-west to north- 
east^ not less than 48 miles ; and the average breadth, according 
to the old Statistical Account, is 10 miles. The upper part of 
this district, however^ is an uninhabited wild, consisting of hill, 
and moss, and moor, serving as pasture, during the summer months, 
to the cattle of the inhabitants of the lower districts. Hence the 
dimensions of the parish are as follows : Lismore, 9600 square 
acres; Kingerloch, 40,960 do.; Appin, 807,200 do.; total, 
857,760 square acres. 

' Boundaries. — The parish is bounded on the east, by the parish 
of Ardchattan, which is separated from it by Lochcreran ; on the 
north*east, by the parish of Fortingal in Perthshire, which it meets 
at Cruach ; on the north, by Lochleven, which separates it from 
the parish of Kilmaly in Inverness-shire ; on the west, by the pa- 
rishes of Morven and Ardnamurchan ; on the south-west, by the 
Sound of Mull and the Atlantic ; and on the south, by the parish 
of Kilmore, separated by the Lynn of Lorn, an arm of the sea 
about three leagues over. Lismore lies in a south-west and north- 
east direction, nearly of an oval form, except at the north-east 
end, where a small headland, jutting into the Linne-sheilich, de-* 
stroys the regularity of the figure. It is exclusively agricultural, 
and its soil and climate are well adapted to all the purposes of the 
farmer. Appin is of a wedge-like form, with the sharp edge thrust 
in between Lochcreran and Linne-sheilich, and consists of the 
districts of Airds, Strath of Appin, Duror, Glencreran, and Glen- 

ARGYLE. P 



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226 ARGYLESHIRE. 

coe. It is a happy mixture of the pastoral and agricultural cha- 
racters, the fiats along the sea shore affording convenient sites for 
farm-houses and steadings, and producing excellent crops of pota* 
toes, barley, and oats ; while the section of the hill belonging to 
each farm forms an excellent sheep-walk, and produces superior 
specimens of those useful animals. The soil of Appin is various. 
Its general character along the sea shore is dry and gravelly, and 
in these localities it readily receives the heat of the sun, and, con* 
sequently, it vegetates quickly and ripens early. Farther bock, it 
is, in many instances, deep and mixed with moss and clay, and, like 
the soil of Lismore, is apt, about the end of spring and beginning 
of summer, to become hard and crusty, so that the tenants are 
frequently heard to complain that vegetation is retarded, not being 
able to force its way through the incrusted surface. The general 
appearance of Appin is far from being tame, for nature has 
distributed over the parish, with a bountiful hand, everything 
that is calculated to form a truly Highland scenery. In the 
low parts of the country, there are fertile meadows and well- 
cultivated fields, with many gentlemen's seats, embosomed in 
woods and surrounded with verdant lawns, fronted by the sea, 
studded with many islands, and backed by lofty mountains, which, 
owing to their difference of altitude and endless variety of form, 
separated by deep glens, and stripped with tumbling cataracts, 
conspire to impart to the whole scene a character at once beau- 
tiful and sublime. 

Mountains. — The mountains of Giencoe are the principal hills 
in the parish, and are objects which, on account of their grandeur 
and sublimity, arrest the attention of the stranger, and inspire bin 
with a degree of reverence mixed with awe. In passing through 
Giencoe, the traveller finds himself led imperceptibly into the 
heart of a vast, capacious, and lengthened gully, not many scores 
of yards in breadth at the bottom, and flanked on either side by 
bold, precipitous, and towering mountains, rising almost perpen* 
dicularly, and to such a height as nearly to exclude the sun from 
the valley, when at his highest elevation in June. These moun- 
tains are of a peculiar appearance. They seem to be formed of a 
compilation of huge rocks or mountains raised upon one another, 
with the top of the lower and the base of tbe one above it not well 
joined, which gives the upper ones the appearance of being in 
danger of falling every moment, and of filling the chasm below 
with their crumbling materials. Tbe highest of these hills is 



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LISMORfi AND APPIN. 227 

about 8000 feet above the level of the sea ; and^ where they are 
accessible to man or beast, they afford no bad pasture for sheep $ 
but in many parts of them, particularly on the south side of the 
valley, no foot of man or beast has ever trode, as they are acces- 
sible only to the eagle and his feathered subjects. Next to these 
ID importance, and certainly not second to them in beauty, are the 
hills of Bailechelish, rising in beautiful pyramidal form immedi- 
ately behind the residence of Charles Stuart, Esq. of Bailechelish. 
These hills, the highest of which may be about 2000 feet above 
the level of the sea, are covered almost to the top with the richest 
verdure, and ornamented with a few venerable trees scattered 
here and there over the surface, the representatives of the ancient 
Caledonian forest, which terminated on the west at this point. 
The highest of the Bailechelish hills is called Beinn-bheithir, t. e. 
the mountain of the thunderbolt^ perhaps from the singed red ap- 
pearance of its two pointed pinnacles. For two-thirds of its height, 
it is covered with fine and luxuriant pasture, but its top is perfectly 
barren, composed of a mixture of granite and whinstone, and co- 
vered with white moss, a fit habitation for the ptarmigan and 
mountain hare. The hills on the opposite coast of Kingerloch in 
the parish of Lismore are nearly of equal height with those already 
mentioned, but more rocky and precipitous, rising from the edge 
of the sea at an angle, perhaps, of 80^, and their sides being much 
broken with rocks and ravines, they present an imposing front ; 
but the uniformity is occasionally broken by some fine retiring 
valleys, upon which the eye can rest with pleasure.* These hills 
contain a few caves of smatl dimensions. In the face of the hill 
of Glensanda, and not hr from its base, there is a small cave 
which, I am told, has lately beeti used as the school-house of the 
district. It is about equidistant from the extremities of an exten- 
sive tract, over which the population are thinly scattered ; and the' 
children lightly clad in kilted garment, without shoes and bonnet, 
but with hearts as light as those of the deer of their mountains, 
met one another and their teacher in this school-house built by 
nature, where they enjoyed the benefit of his instructions free from 
many interruptions, and temptations, and contagions, to which their 
more luxurious, but not more innocent or more happy, southern 
neighbours are exposed. In the hill of Ardsheal in Appin is the 
cave of Ardsheal, also of small dimensions. It is in the side of a 
deep ravine, through which a precipitous stream tombles its rapid 

* Beiiui.ao Bcrioda^ in KlQg«r1ocb was lately £>und to b« 3500 (he% high. 



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228 ARGYLESHIRE. 

eourse, and served for a considerable time, after the tMittle of Cul- 
loden, as a hiding-place for a gentleman of the name of Stewartf 
who served with Prince Charles in 1745. There are several small 
caves in the island of Lismore. On the west side of the island 
the shore is exceedingly bold, the rock rising in many places per- 
pendicular from the water^s edge, and to the height of about 50 
feet In the face of the rock, and about half a-mile from eaeh 
other, there are two caves of a square form, and about 20 feet 
wide. The entrance of each is comparatively small ; and one of 
them is occupied by a boat-builder as a working-shop, and the other 
is tenanted only by wild pigeons, which take shelter in it from the 
storm by day, and make it their home by night. Between the two 
caves already mentioned, there is a smaller one, or what would 
appear to be the mouth of one ; and opposite to it, on the other 
side of the island, there is a similar one ; and tradition says, that 
these caves are the ends of a subterranean passage running across 
the island. 

Coast. — The whole sea coast of the parish is upwards of eighty 
miles. The extent of the coast of Appin, from Shian Ferry, at 
the mouth of Lochcreran on the south, to the head of Lochleven 
on the north, is thirty-eight miles ; and from the mouth of Loch- 
creran to the head of that loch on the east, are eight miles. The 
shore is sandy, and the coast generally high, but not rocky. The 
coast of Kingerloch is about sixteen miles long, and is sandy, bold, 
and rocky. The^coast of Lismore, which is twenty-four miles in 
extent, being the circumference of the island, is toward the north- 
east end low and sandy, and the general character of the rest of 
it is bold, with deep water at the very edge, which, from its dark 
appearance, seems to have a muddy bottom. On the coast of 
Appin, beginning at the south point, the first safe anchorage, for 
vessels of small tonnage, is the mouth of Lochcreran, where coast- 
ers frequently take shelter. The next is the Bay of Airds, close 
to the former, and near Aird's House, the residence of Sir John 
Campbell, Bart of Ardnamurchan. This is a small retired bay, 
which is well sheltered from all winds except the south-west, to 
which it is a little exposed. Here there is frequently an excellent 
take of herring, and the people of Lismore and Appin, and of the 
neighbouring parish of Ardchattan, often secure considerable 
quantities of them. A few miles north from this is the Sound of 
Shuna, a narrow strait that separates the island of that name from 
the mainland of Appin, opposite Appin House, the residence of 



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LISMORE AND APPIN. 220 

Robert Downie, Esq. of Appin. Ships frequently come to anchor 
in the Sound of Shuna, and ride safely in every weather. The 
Bay of Cuil) about five miles north from the Sound of Shuna, is 
of a beautiful semicircular form, the cord being about a mile in 
length. It has a fine sandy beach, and is often frequented by 
large shoals of herrings, whose visits to that quarter are of the 
greatest benefit to the inhabitants along the shore. The Bay of 
Kentailen, still farther north, is a small creek that runs into the 
lands of Ardsheal, and is well sheltered by high lands which are 
covered with wood, and afibrds the safest retreat to small vessels. 
On the coast of Kingerloch is Gerloch, otherwise called Loch« 
chorey. It is from this loch that the district receives its name, 
and it is by far the most commodious harbour in the parish, being 
about a mile in length, and half that extent in breadth, being 
narrower still at the mouth ; and, as the holding ground is exceed- 
ingly good, vessels of any burden may find in it a safe retreat 
from whatever quarter the wind may blow. At the head of this 
loch stands Coineach House, the residence of the proprietor, 
Charles N. Forbes, Esq. The grounds are limited, but the view 
from it is good. Some improvements have lately been made, and 
it is capable of being made a very pretty spot laid down in the 
bosom of mighty hills. On the west coast of Lismore, and near 
the north«east end of it, is the Harbour of Portramsa, large and 
commodious, and considered one of the best anchorages on the 
coast of Argyleshire, being protected by several small islands 
in the offing, which serve as so many breakwaters or protection 
walls, and vessels may enter and depart by three different ways 
through straits between these islands. To strangers entering 
Portramsa, there is some danger, arising from some rocks in the 
neighbourhood, which are scarcely seen even at low water, and 
which disappear entirely at high water. A little to the west of 
Portramsa is the Harbour of Lochoscar, called in the mariners' 
chart Oscar's Bay. Tradition says that this bay received its name 
from the circumstance of a party of Fingalians coming on one 
occasion to enjoy the pleasure of the chase in Lismore, (which, 
in the days of Fingal, is said to have been the habitation of red- 
deer and other wild beasts) and anchoring their vessel in the bay ; 
and, as presumptive proof of this fact, it may be mentioned, that 
the landing-place is called Portnamurlach, t. e. Port-na«mor-laoch, 
or landing-place of the great heroes, and that there is in the im- 
mediate neighbourhood, a ridge or rising ground, where the Fin- 



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230 



ARGYLESUIRE. 



galian ladies are said to have stood to enjoy the tiew of the chaser, 
and which is still called Druim nam ban Fionn, t. e. Ridge of the 
Fingalian Ladies. Portnamurloch is, like Portramsai protected aft 
the mouth by a few islands, the principal of which is called EleiD 
loch Oscair, or Isknd of Oscar^s Bay. The entrance from the 
south side of the islands is clear, but, by the north side, it is dan- 
gerous, and the bay is fit to receive and shelter vessels of any ber* 
then. There are several other harbours of inferior note in Li»- 
more, such as Salen, Killchiaran, and Achnacroish; but these 
are fit to receive only small boats, of which almost every man in 
the island has one« 

Meteorology 4 — The folio whig is a sumnftary of a journal of the 
weather, kept at Bailechelish, in Appin, indicating the tempera- 
ture of the atmosphere, as ascertained daily, monthly, and annu- 
ally, during the years 1837, 1888, and 1839; and also the pres- 
sure of the atmosphere, and the fall of rain in each month, as as- 
certained at the Lismore Light-house, by means ^ the barometer 
and rain-gage, daring the year 1839^ 



IK 


>7. 


183& 1 




Thermometer. 


Fair. 


Rain. 


TbermAmeter. 


Fair. 


Kaiu. 1 












1 




1 










i 




i 




.S 


1 


1 




8^ 


1 

S3 




a 


i 


.S 
§ 






1- 

S3 


1^^ 




S 


2: 


H 


< 


o 


< 


o 


S 


^ 


H 


< 


o 


< 


o 


Jan. 


88 


40 


38 


13 


17 




1 


«.2 


f16.1 


3a2 


19 


10 


2 




Feb. 


86 


89 


36 


9 


4 


3 


12 


29.3 


35.2 


90.5 


25 


8 


,, 


••. 


March, 


32 


42 


35 


10 


7 


••• 


4 


37. 


42.8 


39.1 


U 


13 


8 


4 


April, 


35 


47 


40 


16 


14 


... 


.. 


39.7 


47. 


41.1 


14 


11 


8 


2 


May, 


46 


58 


49 


19 


11 


••■ 


1 


45£ 


56.4 


48.2 


22 


7 


••• 


2 


June, 


54 


63 


56 


19 


11 


*•• 


«•• 


54. 


61.7 


54.6 


7 


17 


1 


5 


July, 


56 


66 


59 


13 


17 


... 


1 


56.3 


63.2 


m.fi 


8 


16 


2 


5 


Aug. 


58 


63 


57 


18 


8 


1 


4 


5a4 


61.1 


5a4 


7 


12 


2 


10 


Sept 


50 


56 


53 


17 


16 




8 


48^ 


57.2 


49.5 


11 


10 


2 


7 


Oct. 


48 


53 


49 


4 


12 


] 


14 


4^5 


50.4 


42.3 


9 


13 


2 


7 


Nov. 


40 


43 


40 


9 


9 




12 


37.6 


42.0 38.8 


11 


17 


••« 


2 


Dec. 


44 


46 


44 


12 


13 


2 


4 


41.1 


4a9 40.8 


7 


17 


1 


6 


44i>, 51., 46. 


3, atrerage temp 


eratu 


re of 


y^r 


4a2, 49.7, 4a9, aver 


. tern 


p. of yearj 



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LISMORE AND APPIN. 



231 



1839. 1 
















Qjuant 


















ram 


Rainy 




Thermometer. 


Barometer. 


Fair. 


Rain. 


fallen. 


days. 












Grt. 




Grt. 














Mom. BveD. 


All 


pt.of 


All 


ptof 








Mom. 


Noon. 


Even. 


at 9. 


at 9. 


day. 


day 


day. 


day. 


Inches. 




Jan. 


da9 


3a4 


36.3 


920.17 


920.77 


6 


8 


5 


13 


2.45 


14 


Feb. 


98.] 


41.8 


39.2 


831.05 


829.57 


7 


2 


3 


15 


2.92 


20 


March, 


34.8 


42.2 


37.7 


919.98 


919.90 


13 


14 


2 


1 


3.21 


12 


April, 


40.9 


49.2 


4a3 


900.85 


899.98 


20 


4 




6 


1.17 


9 


May, 


88.0 


5.^2 


49.8 


92a68 


929.39 


24 


4 


2 


1 


1.62 


8 


June^ 


5&5 


61.4 


57.3 


895.40 


895.16 


27 


... 


1 


I 


2.45 


12 


July, 


56.6 


62.7 


58.3 


917.39 


917.29 


15 


3 


4 


7 


2 91 


15 


Aufr. 


53.5 


68.8 


56.1 


920.85 


922.01 


17 


7 


2 


4 


2.a3 


17 


Sept. 


31.3 


57.6 


533 


881.96 


882L11 


9 


7 


3 


9 


7.31 


21 


Oct. 


47. J 


51^ 


49.1 


927.77 


927.96 


19 


3 


5 


2 


4.29 


16 


Not. 


44.0 


48.9 


48.1 


88a30 


888.13 


14 


7 


3 


5 


1.48 


15 


Dee. 


39.6 


41.6 


40.1 915.50 


915.56 


15 


7 


4 


... 


306 


14 




510.52 


6ia66 






1 














Average dunng the year, 42.54, --^1. 13,-^47. U. 





Climate. — The climate in this district is rather damp, owing to 
the constant falls of rain, which are noticed above ; but at the same 
time that it is damp, it is also mild. The winter months are ge- 
nerally soft and mild, without much snow, except on the high 
grounds ; but there are continued deluges of sleet and rain. The 
climate being so damp has the effect of producing rheumatisms, 
colds, and influenzas, which may be called the preyailing com- 
plaints of the parish. 

Hydrography. — The Coe (Fingalian Cona) and the Creranare 
the principal rivers, — ^the former running through Glencoe, and 
discharging itself into Lochleven at Invercoe, the residence of Mr 
Macdonald of Glencoe ; and the latter, running through Glencre- 
ran, receives the Ure and other tributary streams in its progress, 
and empties itself into the head of Lochcreran below Druimvick, 
the residence of Donald Campbell, Esq. of Baileveolan. On 
each of these rivers, there is excellent salmon fishing. 

Next to these in importance are, the river of Coinich, in Kin- 
gairloch, with those of Duror, Laroch, and Leven, and in each of 
these there is salmon and fine trout in season. The parish 
abounds with beautiful perennial springs. The springs in Lis- 
more are so numerous, that no country is better supplied 
with this important necessary of life. The island is all on 
limestone, and the rock is fiill of fissures and subterranean 
passages that serve as so many reservoirs, which discharge their 



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232 ARGYLESHIRE. 

contents at the foot of almost every knoll ; and, in many iastanoes, 
the discharge is so copious, that one would think it nearly suffi« 
cient to drive a mill. The water, too, is of first-rate quality, for, 
having its residence in the caverns of the lime rock, it is exceed* 
ingly cold, thin, and clear, and is so impregnated with the mineral 
nature of the rock from which it springs, as to render it necessary 
for strangers, who are not accustomed to it, to drink it with cau- 
tion. The climate is mild, the soil is good, and, these blessings 
combined, produce excellent crops, so that the island is strictly a 
grain country ; but, as there is no running water, except the flow 
from the springs above-mentioned, there could be no mills but for 
the three fresh- water lakes which the island contains ; but these 
serve as reservoirs for three mills, and thus the inhabitants are sav- 
ed the inconvenience of being under the necessity of sending their 
grain to other places to be ground. These lakes are all nearly of 
the same dimensions, being about half a mile in length, and a few 
score yards in breadth. '* Two of them contain fine trout, which 
are said to have been carried to them about 90 or 1(M) years ago, 
and which preserve their distinction perfectly clear to this day ; 
that is, their shining silver scales. Their flesh is as red aa that 
of any salmon, and they taste difierently from the yellow trout*" 
The other lake is deep and muddy, and is full of eek. Indeed, 
the waters of all these lakes appear drumly, and of a leaden co- 
lour, owing to their resting upon the deep beds of marl which lie 
at the bottom of the lakes. There is a violent current betwoea 
the west end of Lismore and the Island of Mull, well known to 
seafaring men, at the dangerous rock of Carraig, which is covered 
with the tide at high-water ; but there is now a light-house, which 
was erected about eight years ago on the island, or rather rock, of 
Musdale, in its immediate neighbourhood, and this lighuhouse is 
of much importance in guiding vessels past these dangerous rocks. 
There is also between the west end of LisQM>re and Morven a 
a meeting of three currents, in consequence of contrary tides, 
which, in tempestuous weather, cause a mighty jumbl^ and dan- 
gerous broken seas. This place is called Buinne nam biodag, 
<* the current of dirks ;'' from a tradition that some Lochaber men, 
who were navigating these parts, disagreed about what should be 
the proper mode of managing the vessel under such circumstances, 
when the quarrel ran so high that they appealed to the dirks for 
a decision, and great slaughter ensued. 



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LI8MORB AND APPIN. -233 

2Soo20^.— *Tbere are no animals found in this parish that are 
not common to all the neighbouring parishes. The migratory birds 
are the woodcocky which visits our woods in winter, particularly 
during snow and in frosty weather. The cuckoo, the swallow, 
water-wagtail» corncrake^ and lapwing all appear at their stated 
periods, *^ In severe winters, a few swans visit the lochs in this 
parish, but they do not remain long in this country ; and a few 
wild geese also hatch about the islands of Lismore. Eagles 
abound in Kingairloch, and in the highest parts of Appin, toge- 
ther with ptarmigan, blackcock, and grouse, with abundance of 
common and mountain hares." The former are said to have appear- 
ed in this country not until after roads were made, which opened a 
communication with the low country, and afforded them an easy 
access to the fastnesses of our Highland glen& Among the woods 
of the lower part of Appin, there are roe in great abundance. In 
Lismore, there are neither moles nor foxes ; but there are otters 
and wild cats. Appin and Kingerloch abound with moles, foxes, 
martins, wild cats, and fumarts ; the two last are very destructive 
to poultry. There existed formerly in this parish animals which 
are not now to be seen, such as red-deer, wolves, wild boars, and 
bisons. Two skulls of the latter species were found, some time 
ago, in a peat*moss in Lismore. The following are the dimen- 
sions of the larger skull, as given in the old Statistical Account : 
Extent from the extremities t>f the bend of the horn, 2 feet 1 1 
inches; circumference of the roots of the horns, 1 foot 5 inches ; 
length of horns following the curvature without, 2 feet 8 inches ; 
distance between the eyes, 1 foot | of an inch ; length of skull 
from the snout (not entire) to upper part of head, 2 feet 2 inches ; 
circumference of the eye socket, 10^ inches. 

The Argyleshire cattle are considered to be among the best 
specimens of the Highland breed, and in no part of the country 
are there better specimens to be found than in some parts of this 
parish ; nor do I think that there is in the county any district bet- 
ter adapted to the^ rearing of fine cattle than this district, owing 
to the nature of its soil, and the richness of its pasture ; and a par- 
tial proof of this is found in the circumstance, that drovers visit it 
before other places, to purchase stock for the south country mar- 
kets, and give high prices at the same time. We have also ex- 
. tensive sheep fafkns, and the stock is of superior quality. The 
number of sheep in the parish when the old Statistical Account 



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M4 ARGYLESHIRB. 

was written, is there stated to hate been 26,000| and I believe that 
tbe number has not been much altered since ; but undoubtedly the 
quality must be superior to what it was then, as improvements have 
been made in the mode of managing sheep farms. This was, at 
one time, a country abounding in goats, but they are now become 
scarce, for as these creatures are great enemies to growing wood, 
the proprietors, in order to save their plantations, found necessary 
to proscribe them ; there are, however, a few still to be found in 
Kingerloch. 

Lismore is famous for its grey and dappled horses, and the in- 
habitants are famed for their skill as jockeys, in which occupation 
they are often employed. They traffic much also b pigs, eggs, 
and poultry, of which they export great quantities yearly. The 
fishes which most abound here, and are most important in an eco- 
nomical point of view, are cod, ling, haddock, whiting, rock cod, 
lythe, mackerel, and flounder,* with several other kinds of grey fish. 
Salmon and herring are caught in considerable quantities in their 
season. The salmon fishers seldom dispose of much of their fish 
here, as they generally send it to the south country market, and 
consequently, no accurate quotation of prices can here be given. 
They are caught with stake-nets in Lochchorey in Kingerloch, and 
in several places along the coast of Appin, and in Lochcrerao. 
There are a few beds of oysters in Lochcreran, and the shores all 
around produce abundance of other shelUfish of every descriptkm, 
which is used unsparingly as food by the common people, parti- 
cularly during the summer season. 

JBotony.-^The parish of Lismore and Appin affords the be* 
tanist an ample field for profitable research* This is proved by 
the many botanical discoveries made by the late indefatigable bo- 
tanist. Captain Dugald Carmichael of the 7*2d Regiment of foot, 
who within the last twenty years, discovered on the shores of Lb- 
more and Appin many land and sea plants which were formerly 
unknown in the botanical world. The following list of those 
plants was obligingly supplied by Lieutenant- Colonel Fleming of 
Kinlochlaich in Appin, who is himself a botanist, and was former- 
ly in the enjoyment of Captain Carmichael's friendship ; and for 
further acquaintance with the botany of this parish, the reader is 
referred to Sir W. Jackson Hooker's << British Flora." 

Mtuck Gridiini* maritima Footinalu antipyretica 

Gymnostomuro fiuciculare Entoathodon Tcmpletoni DieraDum flaveaoeoa 

— pyriforme Weissia curviroatra ■ ■ poljearpum 

4 



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M8M0RB AND APPIN. 



235 



FttoarU MtthleubMrgii 
drtboCridHiiii Hutd^insUe 
Anomodon ▼itieakwum 
BaCramu areuAta 
Hypnum cordiiblium 
Bryam •ndragyoam 
i— — - palustre 

FUket. 
Atpidinm lobatnin 
AspleniaiD yriride 
SfM>1«pendriuiD ▼uigart 
OphiogkMRim Tulgatum 
Botrycbium Lunaria 

lAehenea. 
Endoearpon tinaragdiiam 
Leeanora varia 
Squamaria lanugioofa 
Pannelia eyoloadia 
Collema riouatttm 
Peltidea acutata 
Scypbopborm panattisQa 



Polyuplionia CartniAfl*- 




RiTulam Mlearaa 

-granuUfera 

-eruatacea 



Piaom 



Dasyoe coccinea 
Ccramium eiliatum 
GrHBthtia eorallina 
Calithamnion polyspernium 

— granulatum 

■- oorynibofiini 

Rothii 

- meiocarpttm 
" — — — . fpanuni 
— — .— »— ^ leeundatuni 



Bhaphidia aDguloaa 
P>otoo06Piii Dimilia 
Haematoooceua tanguinaiaa 
PalmaUd byalina 



Conferva Taaieata 

— mucoia 

— ulothris 

— perreptana 

— avenoaa 



• cariH^a 



-n)arawus 
- defbrmis 



• arcta 



defbrmis 
Pyonotbalu Papillaria 

^igae imartkitlaiae, Hooker. 
Fucus ▼eaicttlosufl 

termtut 

Himanthalia lorta 
Licbina eonfinit 
Sporocbnut villoaua 



putillut 
Tumeri 



Punetaiia tenuHnuM 
Striaria attenuata 
Pidina deusta 
Polyides rotundas 
Delesseria sinuosa 
Nitophynum punetatum 
Gigartina conferroides 
Pbyllopbora rubens 
Gelideum corneum 
UWa furfbracea 

calopbylla 

Tetraspora lubriea 
Enteromorpba Cornucopia 

erecta 

dathniu 

Bangia ciliaris 

Laminaria 

laeustris 

Bryopsis hypnoides 
VatKberia velutina 



— — riparia 
— — ^ oeramioobi 
Mougeotia ccnruletcens 
Stigonema maDimillosom 
Seytonema minutnm 

— — cirrbosum 

oontezCuro 

Calotbriz luteola 
-^— — — rufoscens 

ioterrupui 

bydnoides 

Lynftbya muralis 

' Carmiebaelii 



speciGsa 

Rosaria leotigera 
Oscillatoria Friesii 
— — ^— - tucifuga 
.»— — cbtbonopbstes 
— ■ littoralia 
contezta 



• rupestru 



Jlgm eoi^ftrvoidemy Hooker. 
Spbacelaria oleraeea 

— velatina 

Ectocarpus erinitus 

— - sphaerophorus 

Polysiphonia frutkulosa 



spiralis 
■ spadieea 

■ alata 

Belonia torulosa 
Cbroolepas ebenea 

- meloenus 
Mesogloia multi6da 
*— — capillaris 

— trireseens 

Batrasobospermum monili« 

forme 
Cbaetopbora lonffcva 

— pelHu 

Coryncpbora marina 
Mynonema punctiforme 
— — — ^— claTatum 
Ritularia botryoides 

— applanata 

i— plicata 



»— — riTQlarls 

pumcfsa 

Nostoc rousoomm 

foliaoeum 

microscopieum 

I I bumifusum 

pruniforme 

— — spbaerieom 
Desmidiuoi Swartsti 

cyKndrfcom 

Fragilaria pectmalit 

aurea 

• Btriatula 

Aeboantbcs brevipes 
— — — Carmiebaelii 
Diatoma unipunctatum 

— striatolnm 

bracbygonum 

— fenestratum 

erystalliniim 

»— fcseicutatum 

SCyllaria cuneata 
Licmopbora Jurgensii 

— splendida 

ilabellata 

Meridion circulare 
Gompbonema ampulUcenm 

_—— i— minutum 

■ paradomm 
Berkeleya fragilia 
Scbiaooeroa quadripuncta- 

tum 

Dillvynif 

— spadioeum 

— -^ obtusum 

— — ^— » Srattbii 
Cymbelhi eymbiformia 

FwigL 
Amanita muscaria 
Agaricus granulosus 
— — — tuberosus 



— — mi( 



Merulius Carmicbaelianua 
Polyporus Armeniacus 
Boletus luridtts 
Hydnuro farinaceum 
Radulum orbiculare 
Pblebia radiata 
Tbelephora avellana 

rainiata 

■ solpburea 

gigantea 

— : viscosa 



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236 



ARGYLESHIRB. 



Thdephon gnbiulofa 

cornigata 

Geoglossum glutinosum 

▼iride 

Leotia lubrica 
Vibrissea trunconim 
Pensa leucoioma 

— ooccinea 

— ▼itellina 
— — calycina 
— ... hispidula 
— — ^ Schwmaoheri 
■ rufo-oUivacea 

■I ccsia 
Ross 



-_ fix«ca 
— . bolaris 
— — Buocina 
-«. ochracea 



-— atravirens 
-— i mduxantha 
••— comprena 

flaxelU 

—— agaricana 
— . sclerotjoides 



-— — r— acicularis 
— — tubtilis 
Patellaria atrata 
Asoobolus ciliatus 

Trifolii 

Tympania uloea 

" frazini 

Cerangiuni Aueupariaa 
Stictis pallida 

— I Sicrostoxna 
Cryptomyces Terrioolor 
TremcUa clavata 
Naematelia encephala 
Agyrium nifum 
Pyrenium lignatile 
Selarotium rubi 
—....- durum 

— ^— — ^ pustula 
Spharria multiformis 

m^ geladnosa 
— i— — • citrioa 



SplMiria atiopurpuiea 
'*-—«-*- serpeos 

■ luteo-virens 
— — — spiculosa 

fimeti 
abietts 

- cinnabirioa 



Diderma Ternieoauin 

- CarmkhaelianuiD 
nitem 



— dioica 

— Trifolii 

— aurantia 

— rosella 
-— aquila 
iM cancfoens 

— strigoea 
-* hitpida 
— -affioia 

•«. mammaeformis 
•.- apermoides 
^- sordaria 

— pilifon 

— cirrhoaa 

— rostellata 

— livida 
— . rudis 

' m clypeata 
-- pinastri 
-> strobilina 
-— obturata 

— pellita 



• Heders 
Diantbi 



• nibiginosa 



Lophium mytilioum 

*elatum 

Spherooaema subulatum 
Dothidea rubra 
Rhyti$ma aalieioum 
Phacidium coronatum 
Hytterium Carmichaelian- 

um 
— — Frazini 

VaccinU 

Rubi 

• — — Pinastri 

— — — .i- foliioolum 
Scleroderma yulgare 
Lycogola Epidendrum 
Reticularia oliTacea 



— ^ cyaneBcena 
■ dieplanatum 
Didymium pertusDin 

■■ cinereum 

— — serpula 
Pbysarum rubl|^iKMum 

byalinum 

Cniterium mutabile 
Dictydium nmbilicatum 
Trichia seratina 
Perichaena ttrobilina 
Myrotbecbium roridum 
Erysiphe ooramunb 

— penicillata 

Stilbum tomentoaum 

bioolor 

■ ■' ■ pellueidum 
Helmintboeporium aubula- 
turn 

■ velotio- 
um 
Botrytia cana 
Oidium mooileoideB 
Sepedonium roceum 
Pusisporium eriseom 

fiivo-virena 

Melanconium spbanroideum 
Ar^ma mucronatttm 
Torulaoylindrlea 
Puccinia Campanulae 
■ ftlandntina 

; Heraclei (Grav. ) 

iBcidium Perielymeni 
>— leuooepermQm 

■ GroMulaiiae 

Pini 

Uredo oblongata 

utrieuloaum 

Primulae 

Polygonorum 

Rbinantbaoearum 

■■■- Vaoeiniorum 
— — Hvpcricomm 

efitisa 



There are large quantities both of natural and planted wood in 
Appin, which serve both for ornament and for use. On all the 
properties in that part of the parish, there are considerable tracts 
of natural grown wood, consisting of oak, ash, birch, hazel, &c. 
and of planted wood, consisting of ash, elm, beech, plane, and 
many varieties of the fir tribe. Throughout the woods of Airds, 
there is a large sprinkling of hollies, which, with their deep*greea 
colour of perpetual duration, add greatly to the beauty of the land- 
scape, especially in winter, as they maintain their summer appear- 
ance during that period, when the other trees around them are 



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L18M0RE AND APPIN. 237 

stripped or their foliage. In Appin all sorts of wood seem to 
flourish ; but the soil in Lismore, from its richness, appears more 
congenial to hard than to soft timber ; and, accordingly, the few 
trees that ornament the island are of hard wood, such as plane^ 
beech, and ash. Formerly, there were in Lismore several small 
proprietors, and around their mansion-houses and gardens were 
planted rows of trees of the above descriptions: these are now be« 
come tall and stately, and being scattered in small clumps here 
and there over the island, they break, in a pleasing manner, the 
continued uniformity of green surface, of little knolls and dells 
which forms the general characteristic of the place. The last in- 
cumbent planted on the glebe a few larch trees, but they appear 
stinted, the rich soil in which they are settled not being suited to 
their nature. Up to about the middle of the last century, the hill 
sides of that district were thickly covered with full-grown natural 
wood, which must have given a splendid appearance to the coun- 
try ; but unfortunately, over these woods the Lismore people had 
a servitude, in virtue of which they were entitled to carry off yearly 
six loads of a felucca or six- oared boat, of any kind of wood they 
pleased, except straight hazel and rowantree. The former would 
probably be preserved on account of its fitness for making hoops 
and fishing-rods, and the latter for its beautiful red berry, which 
was considered as wholesome fruit, or, perhaps, on account of its 
sacredness as a charm against witchcraft, — a virtue which, accord- 
ing to ancient superstition, it was supposed eminently to possess^ 
The reason which dictated this reservation, we cannot now deter- 
mine further than by conjecture ; but one thing is sure, that the 
Lismorians made the best of their privilege, and carried off from 
the woods of Kingerloch their six boat loads yearly, as their legal 
due, and were by no means scrupulous about making further drafts, 
until at length, the forest being unable to withstand the combined 
efforts of time and of spoilers, entirely disappeared, hazel, rowan- 
tree and all; and as the servitude is still in existence, the proprie- 
tor has*^ no encouragement to plant, as he could not prevent his 
best trees from finding their way to Lismore in a six-oared boat.* 

* Since writing the above, I have been informed that the right was constituted in 
the year 1666, under a deed granted by Duncan McLean, younger of Kingerloch, in 
favour of the Earl of Breadalbane, who was then proprietor of lands in Lismore, and 
who in his turn assigned it over to Patrick Campbell of Barcaldine in the year 1734,' 
vrhen the Barrs lands in Lismore were eicambed for certain lands belonging to Bar- 
caldine both in Lorn and in Perthshire. 

The servitude is now redeemed ; the present proprietor of Kingerloch having' 
agreed to pay Barcaldine a sum of money as an equivalent, and to commence plant- 
ing in spring next. 



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238 ARGYLESHIRE. 

IL — Civil History. 

The civil history of this parish is possessed of a oonsideraUe 
degree of interest, both on account of its being the residence 
of powerful opposing clans, and on account of transactions of 
which it had been the scene. The Stewarts of Appin were» for a 
very long period, the proprietore of that part of the parish, and 
firom their power and influence were of no small importance in the 
scale of political rivalsbip. In the commotions which agitated the 
country during the Montrose wars, the Stewarts of Appin were 
conspicuously engaged, and rendered that nobleman no inconside- 
rable assistance at the battle of Inverlochay ; and, like many of 
their countrymen, espoused the cause of Prince Charles Edward 
in 1745. At each of those eventful periods, the Stewarts and the 
cause which they espoused, were opposed by the Campbells, who 
possessed the south side of the parish, and who ranged themselves 
on different sides of politics, both in the religious wars in the 
time of Montrose, and in the civil commotions in the* time of 
Prince Charles. In Strath of Appin there is a small rivulet called 
Ctm ruaghf or red bog, from the swamp through which it runs, 
and this rivulet is still pointed out as the line which separated the 
lands of the supporters and of the opponents of Prince Charles; 
and one cannot help viewing Con ruoffh with interest, when it is 
considered, that, in those days of commotion and strife, a single 
step from either side to the other brought the individual into the 
territory either of a friend or of a foe. Happily these days are 
gone by, and the sound of the warlike trumpet has given place to 
the more peaceful toll of the church bell, and the inhabitants of 
either side of Can ruagh meet on its northern bank, not in hostile 
array, to dispute the proprietorship of an earthly, but in perfect 
amity, to employ the means of obtaining a heavenly crown. In 
1745, some lands in Appin were forfeited, but they were after« 
wards restored. 

The valley of Glencoe and its neighbourhood are rendered 
classic by Ossian, who, with poetic pathos, sung the Voice ofConeu 
From the Palace of Selma, in the parish of Ardchattan, or from 
the Hall of Shells, in Morven, the Fingalian heroes made fre- 
quent excursions to Lismore, to Glencoe, and the braes of Appin 
on hunting expeditions, and thus, in passing and repassing, they 
must have traversed the length and breadth of this parish. The 
massacre of Glencoe, perpetrated under aggravated circumstanjoe^ 



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LISMORB AND APPIN. 239 

is SO well known in history, that it is not necessary here to say 
any thing on the subject. 

Eminent Men. — Among the eminent characters connected with 
this parish, the first that we shall mention is Donald Stewart, 
commonly called Domhnutt nan ord^ Donald of the hammers, who 
was the son of Stewart of Invernahyle, in Appin. Between the 
family of Invernahyle and Catkin Uaine^ t. e. Green Colin, who 
was the Dunstaffnage of the day, there subsisted a feud which led 
to the destruction of the £amily of Invernahyle by that of Dun- 
staffnage, at the time that Donald was a child ; but he escaped 
sharing the fate of his family by the fidelity of his nurse, who fled 
with him to Ardnamurchan, where her husband, who was the 
blacksmith of the district, resided.* He lived some time during 
the beginning of the. seventeenth century, and died an old man at 
Invernahyle. He was buried at the back of the church of Lis- 
more, and his grave is marked by a plain stone, with a two-edged 
sword engraved on it» 

The Right Honourable Thomas Babington Macaulay, M. P. 
for Edinburgh, is grandson of the Rev. John Macaulay, who was 
minister of this parish previous to the year 1766. 

Captain Dugald Carmichael, whose name is mentioned above 
under the head Botany, was a native of Lismore. His knowledge 
of natural history in general was very extensive. After serving for 
a time as surgeon in the 72d Regiment of foot, he accepted a 
commission in the same regiment, where he continued to distin- 
guish himself until the conclusion of the late war. He then re« 
turned to his native parish, and spent the remainder of his life in 

* This bumble mechooic soon bare for Donald an affection equal to that ^ bich he 
bad for any of bis own children, and, having no hope of e?er being able to restore 
liioi to Invernahyle^ reaoWed to bring him up as hia son, to his own trade. Donald 
grew rapidly in stature and in strength ; so much so, that, at sixteen years of sge, 
be could wield a ^edge hammer in each hand, and work at his foster fotber^s anvils 
and, at the same time, displayed a power and magnanimity of mind and sentiment 
jSu superior to any of the class with which he was associated. The blacksmith laid 
up these things In his heart, and from them predicted that his foster son would yet 
arrive at an enunence more suited to his mind and lineage than the hammer and the 
anvil, and resolved to give him all the assistance in his power in a two-edged sword 
which he made for him. When the sword was presented to Donald, he was told of 
his birth and linesge, and of the circumstance which brought him to Ardnamurchan ; 
upon which he burned with rage, and, bidding an affectionate forewell to the man 
whom he always believed to be bis father, he sulied forth from bis obscurity, breath- 
ing revenge agrinst CaUeln Uaine and his kindred, and, taking with him twelve of his 
companions fh>m Ardnamurchan, he reached Corpach in Lochaber, where he forged 
in a smithy a two-edged sword for each of his followers, and with these he proceeded 
to Dunstaffnage, where he slew CaUein Uaine and fifteen of his retainers. After this 
he carried on an exterminating war against the Campbells, and could not be recon* 
Ciled to them till the day of his deatb. 



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240 ARGYLE3HIRE. 

the prosecution of his (avourke studies. He died in Appin, aad 
was buried ia the churchyard of Lismore. 

The Rev. Donald M^Nicol, who was minister of Lismoie before 
the last incumbeDt, was noted in his day for his learning, but paiw 
ticularly on account of his admirable ** Remarks upon Dr John- 
son's Tour through the Hebrides." He was also an excellent 
Gaelic poet, and several of his pieces are preserved and repeated 
here. 

Land-owners. — The landowners in this parish are, Sir John 
Campbell of Ardnamurchan, Bart, who has lands both in Appin 
and Lismore ; Robert Downie, E^q. of Appin ; Messrs Stuart of 
Bailechelish ; Stewart of Ardsheal ; Stewart of Fasnacloich ; Sir 
Duncan Cameron of Fassfern and Callart ; Mr McDonald of 
Glencoe; Colonel Fleming of Kinlochlaich : Colonel Stewart of 
Achnacone ; Mr McDonald of Dalness ; and Mr M'Call of Mine- 
field. The above are proprietors in Appin, and the following are 
proprietors in Lismore, viz. Sir Duncan Campbell of Barcaldine ; 
Mr Campbell of Baileveolan ; Mr Campbell of Lochnell ; Mr 
Cheyne of Kilmaron in Fifeshire, and Mr Levingston of BacbiL 
The whole of these land-owners, both in Lionore and Appin, ex- 
cept the last, have more than L.50 of yearly income. 

Parochial Registers. — The parish registers in this parish are by 
no means voluminous, nor do they seem to have been welUkept. 
The first volume contains sixty pages of foolscap quarto, aewed 
in a cover of brown paper. The first entry ^is dated at Kilmaluagt 
the 2dd day of November 1757, and the volume served exactly 
for ten years. 

Antiquities. — There are in this parish several ruins of ancirat 
castles, but it is much to be regretted that little is known either 
of their dates, their builders, or the purposes for which they were 
erected. The first that we shall mention, is the castle of Island<» 
stalker or rather Elein anstalcaxre, which signifies the Island of the 
falconer. The founder was Duncan Stewart of Appin, who built 
it for the accommodation of James IV. who used to frequent these 
parts on hunting expeditions. Duncan of Appin himself was ap* 
pointed hereditary keeper of this castle, which is a square tower 
built upon a small rock in the Sound that separates Lismore from 
Appin, and is the property of Sir John Campbell of Ardnamurchan, 
his predecessor, Sir Donald Campbell having purchased it from 
Stewart of Appin for a small wherry. It appears to have contain* 
ed three storeys, and has the usual appendage of a prison vault 



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LISMORE AND APPIN. 241 

dug in the rock underneath. It was new^roofed and floored by 
Sir Donald Campbell of Ardnamurchan in 1631 ; but some years 
previous to the Revolution of 1688, Airds (the proprietor) was de- 
prived of it as a^ dangerous person, and it was committed to the cus- 
tody of the tutor of Appin, (Stewart of Ardeheal,) who was after- 
wards reluctantly induced to restore it to the owner. It is pretty 
entire, as the roof was allowed to fall off, only a few years ago* 

Castle Shuna is an ancient ruin situated in the island of that 
name, the property of Mr Downie of Appin. It appears to be 
much older, and is much less entire than the one already men-* 
tioned ; yet J am told that it is by no means of so ancient a date,, 
and that its appearance of antiquity arises from the circumstance 
of its never having been completed^ The prison, in this case, isi 
an arched vault, built above ground, and serves as the foundation 
on which the superstructure is reared. About the door of the 
vault is a circular tower, which must have served at once for a 
lobby and staircase leading up to the second storey, on which were 
the main apartments of the building. 

On the property of Donald Campbell, Esq. of Baileveolan, in 
Lismore, stands Castle Coeffin, a very ancient building, whose 
ivy»covered walls present a singular appearance. From its style, 
it appears to he coeval with Castle Shuna, and the only tradition 
connected with it is, that it was built as a place of defence by 
a Danish Prince, called Coeffin. It is built upon a point jutting 
out into Linne-Sheilich, or Linne Loch, the arm of the sea that 
separates Kingerloch from Lismore, and commanding fully that 
sound. There is nothing remaining of it but broken walls. Right 
opposite, on the Kingerloch coast, is Castle Mearnaig, otherwise^ 
the Castle of Glensanda^ built upon the summit of a conical rock 
close to the shore, and about 150 feet high, and whose top is not 
broader than the base of the castle. This castle, from the style 
of its architecture, seems to be of less ancient date, and is more 
entire than Castle Coeffin. The flight of stairs mounting to the 
second story still remains, as also the fire-place and chimney-r 
stalk of what appears to have been the principal apartment. It i^ 
^u oblong building, 45 feet by 20, and 33 feet in height, and the 
side walls are entire. There is a beautiful echo in this castle. A 
person standing at a particular spot, about 350 yards from tha castle^ 
hears eight syllables distinctly repeated after be has ceased speak-* 
ing. The Castle of Achinduin, in Lismore, on the property of 
Mr Campbell of Lochnell, was one of the places where the Bishop 

ARGYLE. Q 



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242 AROYLBgHIRS. 

of Argyle resided. It is a square building, of which oothing re* 
maiDs but the outward &hell. It has an echO| but it is miich lest 
distinct than the one in the castle of Glensanda. 

The oldest of all these ancient buildings in this parish is the 
castle of Tirefoor, in Lismore, on the property of Sir John Camp- 
bell, as appean from its being built with dry stones without any 
lime or mortar* It is formed of two concentric circles, the 
diameter of the inner one being about 20 feet. The space 
between the two circles is no more than suflSciently lai*ge to ad* 
mit of a man walking through, and is covered with flags plaeed 
across the tops of the walls, but it is now greatly filled up with rub* 
bisb. It was evidently intended for a ** beacon or watch-tower, 
and, accordingly, it is built upon an eminence commanding a most 
extensive view, so as to be seen from neighbouring towers and 
heights/' 

The ruins of religious houses were already described in our at-- 
tempt to give the etymology of the word Appiru They are the 
church of Island muncUUcluiUum^ehUle i Annaid and Clagh'^hM* 
riollon^ 

The obelisks in the parish are only two ; one of them stands on 
the farm of Achar in Duror. It is an erect pillar, thirteen feet 
high, and gives its name to the farm on which it stands, t. e. 4cha^ 
a field, and Carragky a pillar, the field of the pillar. The other 
is on the farm of Inverfolla in Strath of Appin. It is of the same 
size with the stone at Achar, but» having been by some means or 
dther upset, it is now lying on the spot where it once stood. 
There was another on the glebe of Lismore, but it has been broken, 
at the height of three feet from the ground. Near it are the re- 
mains of some ancient walls, and tradition says that they were the 
walls of a sanctuary, whither malefactors of every description fled 
for refuge, during the darkness of past ages. The stone is called 
in Gaelic^ Clach na h*ealaj *^ the stone of the swan/' And it is 
said that the malefactor fleeing to the sanctuary was safe> when 
once he laid his hand upon the horn of the altar, Cladi na ii'eala, 
and after remaining a year and a day within the walls^ he came 
out absolved from all his crimes. The burying-ground of Lismora^ 
which is a small knoll near the church, is commonly called the 
CrvtBi from the circumstance of a stone cross having once stood 
upon its summit, the pedestal of which is still seen) being a square 
block of stonev sunk in the earth until its upper face is level with 
the surface, and having a tenor or square socket dug out of its 

3 



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LISMORE AND APPIN. 243 

centre, into whicb an upright slab was put down and so made to 
stand. It was at this cross, that marriage banns used to be pub* 
Hshed, and the custom was continued until about twenty or thirty 
years ago. The friends of both parties assembled at the cross, 
to the number of perhaps forty or 6fty people, on Sabbath mom^ 
ing, and it did not signify whether there was a sermon in the 
church or not ; the clerk issued the proclamations amid the buz* 
zas of the company, after which they all retired to the public- 
bouse, and spent the remaining part of the day in drinking, and 
frequently concluded the scene with a battle. Happily the last 
incumbent succeeded in abolishing this unseemly practice, and 
the cross of Lismore is now only a name. Near the cross there 
was, at some remote period, a small church or chapel built; and 
close to the place where it stood^ there were dug out of a 
grave, about nine years ago, a pair of brazen candlesticks, of 
plain workmanship, and in good presenration, and as they were 
found by some of Lochnell's tenants, they were carried to Loch* 
Bell House in the parish of Ardchattan. In a piece of new trench* 
ed ground near the church, there were found, within the last few 
weeks, two silver coins ; the one is about the breadth of a four- 
penny piece of the present day, but very thin. On the one side 
there is a cross, formed by lines intersecting one another at right 
angles at the centre, and extending to the rim, and the point of 
intersection is the centre of a circle smaller than the coin, and 
formed, as it were, of a string of beads. On the reverse there is 
a smaller circle enclosing a head wearing a crown, and on the 
space between the circumference of these circles and the edge 
of the coin there are some characters, but so much corroded 
that it is impossible to decypher them. The other coin is 
nearly similar, but larger than a sixpence, and the head on it wears 
a large wig under the crown. There were also found some cop- 
per pins resembling small skewers, and a small copper key, ex- 
ceedingly simple, and of a very rude form, and a stone needle 
about four inches long and four*sided ; the eye is quite entire and 
considerably worn, as it would appear, by the thread. These 
things are now in the minister's posseasion. There were also 
found among the trenches, querns, grindstones, and pieces of red 
deer^s horns, and along a certain line tbefe were spikes of black 
oak about the shape and size of a ploughshare, driven bea<lloDgiitfo 
ihe earth at about three yards distanee from one another. There 



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S44 • AROYLESHIHE. 

were half a dozen of them, and the upper end of each was a foot 
below the surface. 

There are some Druidical cairns or conical heaps of stones in 
several places in this parish. One them, which is of a considera* 
ble size, and of a regular conical shape, stands near the church, on 
the farm of Bachil, the property of Mr Coll Levingstone. It 19 
called Cnoe aingtU ^^ iiery knoll," as tradition, or rather supersti-; 
tion says, that it used to foretell an invasion, by appearing *^ all in a 
lowe." 

There are several of these tumuli on the property of Mr Stuart 
of Bailechelish, who, a few years ago, began to remove one of ihem 
with a view to clear the 6eld in which it stood, of what he believ- 
ed to be merely a heap of stones, but, as the workmen proceeded, 
they found in the centre of the tumulus a rude stone coffin con*, 
taining nothing within it, and instead of removing the whole, as 
was first intended, Mr Stuart, with proper feeling, ordered the sa- 
cred relic to be left undisturbed ; built a wall round the place, 
planted some trees within the enclosure, and reared a stone pillar, 
on which is engraved the time when, and the circumstances un* 
der which, they were found. 

The quern or ancient hand-mill is still in use in some parts of 
this parish. The writer lately saw it in full operation in Kioger- 
loch, grinding corn, and he never tasted better oatmeal than that 
which it produced. It was a very simple apparatus, consisting of 
a nether and an upper stone, and a hand to drive the latter round. 
In the centre of the nether stone, which was about two feet, in dia* 
meter, there was a wooden peg firmly fastened, and through the 
centre of the upper stone there was a hole sufficiently large to re* 
ceive easily the foresaid peg when the stones were laid upon one 
another in working orden The purpose of this peg wa^ to keep 
the upper stone from flying off by its centrifugal force during its 
revolutions. On the upper surface of the upper stone, and near 
its edge, there was another hole bored half through, into which, 
was inserted another stick, which is the hand by which the mill is 
driven. 

IIL — Population. 

The population of this parish has increased considerably, since 

the last Statistical Account was written. The parish at that time 

contained 3526 souls, of whom 1 121 were in Lismore ; but in 1881 

the population was 4366, and of these 1497 were in Lismore. 



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MSMORE AND APPIN. 245: 

Since 1831, however, the population of Lismore has decreased to 
1430 souls, owing to emigration, while the population of Appin 
remained stationary. 

There is no register of burials kept. 

The average number of persons under 15 years of age, » 1600 

between 15 and dO« . 1200 

80 and 50, . . 1008 

50 and 70, . 485 

upwards of 70, .88 

The number of landed proprietors having more than L.50 a- 
year, 16. Average number of children in each family, 6. Num* 
bar of fatuous persons in the parish, 5. 

The language generally spoken is Gaelic, and there are many 
of the natives who understand no other, particularly those who 
are somewhat advanced in years. 

Marriage ceremonies are always performed in the church, par- 
ticularly in Lismore ; and the only music that is used, either at 
weddings or balls, is that of the bagpipe. The violin is used in 
Appin and Kingerloch on such occasions. Baptism is also gene- 
rally administered in the church, but not always on Sabbath, that 
salutary practice being yet only partially introduced. The child is 
brought to the church on week-days; and there is this peculiarity, 
that, whereas in most other places there is only one godfather 
and godmother, in Lismore every person that is present^ when 
it is done on a week-day, stands in that relation to the ctyld. 
•The father goes round the company with the child, dipping it 
upon their arms as he passes along, and then they are aW ffoisHdhSy 
L e. godfathers and godmothers, together. There are 1430 peo«- 
pie in Lismore, and these are so closely connected by blood rela- 
tionship and intermarriage, that they are all near relations to one 
another. A Lismore man seldom takes a wife from any other 
place ; but although, as a body, they are relations and friendly to 
one another, yet there is a remnant of ancient feudalism still lin- 
gering among them. Every sept or clan stands by itself, to sup- 
port one another against any other sept or clan that may wish 
to encounter them; but although they sometimes in this way 
quarrel at home, yet when abroad at markets they are very faithful 
to one another, and woe betide the unfortunate stranger who may 
attempt to insult the least of them. The same customs prevail iu 
Appin as in Lismore. 



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246 ARQTLB8HIRB. 

IV,*— Industry. 

A^cuUure. — The Dumber, of acres standard imperial measure^ 
in the parish, which are either cultivated or occasioDally \n till^ge^ 
may be stated, as iiearly as it can be ascertained, at about 4000, 
which, subtracted from 357,760, being the number of acres in the 
parish, leaves 349,760 acres which never have been cultivated ; 
and it is believed that not more than 250 acres could, with a 
profitable application of capital, be added to the cultivated land b 
the district. It is true, that there are in the parish large tracts of 
waste land that could be brought under the plough, but the ex- 
pense of doing so would be greater than the profit that could rea^ 
sonably be expected to arise from it« The number of acres under 
wood may be reckoned at about 4000, and these woods consist of 
oak, elm, ash, birch, haeel, holly, and the different species of fifs. 
It is difficult to state with accuracy the average rent of the parish 
per acre of arable land, but an approximation to it may be stated 
at about L.I, 2s. Od.^ — bearing, however, in mind, that some landi^ 
particularly in Lismore, where there is no hill pasture, pay at the 
rate, perhaps, of L. I, lOs. per acre of their surface; while some 
farms in Appin and Kingerloch, owing to the vast extent of waste 
land they contain, do not pay more, perhaps, than i& the acre of 
their surihce. The rate of grazing in the parish is about Lbfl 
Sterling a-year per ox or cow graced, and 8s. per ewe or fuil<- 
grown sheep that is pastured for the year« 

.The black-faced Highland sheep are Uie most common in the 
parish, but there are a few Cheviots now beginning to be intro- 
duced. Mr Downie of Appin, and Mr Stuart of BailecheliA, 
have considerable flocks of these; and the former of these gentle- 
men is now experimenting on crossing them with the Leioestor 
tup, in full expectation of improving them materially. 

Various improvements have lately been made in the husbandry 
of the parish by way of reclaiming waste land, draining, enclosing 
and top-dressing. Sir John Campbell of Airds has, within the 
last few years, been at considerable expense in reclaiming waste 
land, and farther operations of the same kind are in pit»gresa. 
Colonel Stewart of AehnacOne is also engaged in the same way, 
and has introduced tile-draining with great effect, and Mr Forbes 
of Kingerloch has, like his neighbours in Appin, added of iate 
a considerable portion to his cultivated lands. Nor aie the Lis- 
more people altogether inactive. Draining and enclosing are 
commenced, and the rotation system is partially introduced* But 



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LISMORE AND APPIK. $47 

although some improvements were made in these raipects, yet 
there is room for a great deal more, and by the application of ca- 
pital in this way, the value of property might be greatly increased. 
FanB'homet and steadiogs were formerly of the most ordinary 
description ; indeed, they were far from being comfortable ; but 
these' are also improved, and in every instance where new ones are 
erected, tbey are constructed on a more comfortable scale. 

Quarries and Mines, — There are several appearances of lead 
mines to be found in Appin, but only one of them on the property 
of Mr M^CoU of Mine6eld was attempted to be wrought, and it 
did not turn out to any advantage. There is also some appearance 
of ittarble in Appin, but no attempt was ever made to work it. 
There is at the foot of Gleocoe, on the £arm of Laroch, the pro- 
perty of Charles Stuart, Esq. of Bailechelish, a slate quarry, which 
has for many years been extensively wrought, and from which large 
quantities of the best slates are yearly manufactured. The fol« 
lowing information relative to the management and manner of 
working the quarry of Bailechelish was obligingly communicated 
by Henry Stuart, Esq. the proprietor's brother. 

*' Some time previous to 1760, the grandfather of the present 
proprietor opened a vein of slate on his property, and wrought it sue- 
cetisfully for many years. Another adjoining to that which was first 
wrought, possessing greater natural facilities for quarrying, having 
been discovered, the works were gradually removed to it, where 
they have been in operation for upwards of fifty years. These veins 
are on opposite sides of a valley, and are of such extent that they 
may be said to be inexhaustible, the one now quarried being the 
lesser of the two. The quality of the slate in both is the same. 
The quarries now wrought are on the side of a high mountain, 
which rises out of an arm of the sea called Loehleven, a branch 
of the Linnhe loch. The vein of slate, which is at an angle of 
about 80^, coounenoes at the shore, and stretches southward along 
the side of the mountain for a short distance, and then runs into 
the centre of it. The lace of the rock is laid open by workings 
fronting the west, the inclination of the vein being towards the 



The workings are conducted in three levels^ rising above each 
other as steps of stairs. All the levels are entered from the north, 
that end of tbe vein which abuts upon the sea. The total height 
of the works from the bottoai of the lowest level to the extreme 
height of the rock, is about 216 feet, and the rock wrought ex- 



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V248 AtlGYLESHIBE. 

tends to about 536 feet in length. The first or lowest lerel enters 
from the high road, which passes between it and the sea, at a 
height of about 28 feet above half-tide mark. A tram road ex- 
tends from along the whole face of the rock to a bank formed 
in the sea by the rubbish of the quarries thrown over. Along this 
road, the whole quarried rock is carried by means of trains of wag- 
gons, and the blocks which contain workable slates are manufac^ 
tured into their various sizes on the bank, and the uuproductive 
part, or rubbish, is tumbled into the sea. 

The second level is 66 feet above the bottom of the first, and 
communicates in the same manner with another bank, also formed 
in the sea by an arch thrown over the high road, where the produce 
is disposed of in the same way as in the first. 

The third level is 74 feet above the bottom of the second, and 
rises to the extreme height of the hill in that part, which is 76 
feet from its bottom. The produce of this third level is conveyed 
down an inclined plane, by means of a fly-wheel, to the same bank 
where the second is emptied. 

It is in contemplation to open a lower level, from the level of 
half-tide mark, to be wrought in succession to those now in opera- 
tion, to reach which it will be necessary to tunnel under the high 
road. It will be observed, that all these levels being above the level 
of the sea, and open to it, no interruption to the work can ever 
arise from an accumulation of water, as it is drawn ofl^ into the sea, 
as it arises. 

The slates are all manufactured by contract, the rock being let 
annually to several parties, consisting generally of four men, each 
party being called a ** crew," and paid at a stipulated rate for 
the number of slates which they make within the period of the 
agreement. The workmen keep up their tools, and pay for the 
powder that is used in blasting the rock, and the miister maintains 
the tram roads, and furnishes waggons. The blocks of rock which 
contain slate are separated from the rubbish within the quarries, 
and are conveyed from thence to sheds on the banks, where they are 
split to the proper thickness, and shaped into the various sizes that 
are made. When the rock is friendly, one man splitting gives full 
employment to the cutter, and a crew is said to do well when two 
men quarrying can keep the other two employed in splitting and 
shaping. The proportion of the whole rock which is convertible 
into roof slate is, on an average, one to seven of refuse or rub- 
bish. 



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LISMOBE AND APPIN. ^^^ 

. The harbour, which is safe and comdnodious, is formed by the 
banks of rubbish projecting into the sea on each side, which com- 
pletely shelter it from all winds. There is an extensive wharf for 
shipping, alongside of which vessels of any size can lie to receive 
their cargoes. The manufactured slates are conveyed for shipment 
from the banks by tram roads on inclined planes, to the vessel's 
side. The distance to the farthest off part of the rock which is 
wrought, to the shipping wharf, is 650 yards. 

The colour of the slate is deep blue, spangled with pyrites cal^ 
led by the workmen '^diamonds," and these gold*coloured drops 
are so firmly incorporated with the slate, that they can never be 
separated from them. The slates are allowed to possess, in a pre<L 
eminent degree, all the qualities of permanence of colour, and du** 
xability of material essential to roof-slate. The various descrip- 
tions of slates manufactured are as follows: Duchesses, 24 in-> 
cbes by 12 inches; Countesses, 20 do. by 10 do. ; sizeable, aver- 
aging 1 4 do. by 8 do.; under size, do. do. The nature of the 
rock does not admit of an extei^sive manufacture of the larger 
sizes, the chief production being the sizeable and under-sized. 
The quantity produced annually of the above-mentioned kinds va- 
ries from about 8000 to 1 1,000 tons ; or in numbers, from five to 
seven millions of slates of all kinds. They are shipped to almost 
all the sea ports in Scotland and Northumberland, from which 
they find their way to most parts of the kingdom. Occasional 
shipments of them are made to America and the West Indian co- 
lonies, — not directly from the quarries, but from ports trading to 
these countries. Besides the various kinds of roof-slates enume- 
rated above, pavement, gravestones, and soles for drain tiles are 
manufactured ; but the production for those purposes is limited, 
and the consumption local. 

The whole number of persons employed in the works is about 
800 of all ages, including blacksmiths, carpenters, and other 
tradesmen. The average rate of wages earned by the quar- 
riers is about 12s. each per week, but this is unequally distri- 
buted among them, as the earning -of each individual depends, 
from the nature of the contract, on the productiveness in slate, of 
the part of the rock in which he works, and very much on the col- 
lective energy of the crew to which he belongs. It frequently hap- 
pens that an able and well-matched crew earn individually L.! per 
-week, and occasionally even more. As the most efficient men find 
employment as quarriers, and the nature of the other work not be- 



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250 ARuYLfiSUIRC. 

iiig labortouff, the wage* of a day-labourer Tary from la. 6d. to Is. 
lOd. per day. A particularly able workmaD, when required, re- 
ceives 2s. and sometiixies 2s. 6d. per day, but tliejiuiiiber employ- 
ed on day's wages at the latter rate is small and occasion^. Ladb 
from fifteen to twenty yeais of age earn Is. to Is. 6d. a*day, and 
boys from ten to fifteen years, 6d. to Is. These rates of wages 
are applicable alike to the •summer and winter seasons. Besides 
those day-labourers employed by the master, crews are frequently 
in the habit of hiring in men and boys to assist them when they 
find it their interest so to do, but all are noder the control of tbe 
master as if directly hired by himself. With a Tery few exceptions, 
the workmen are all the descendants of the original inhabilanta 
of the immiediate neighbourhood of tbe qimrries, such as are noC 
being chiefly frem the adjoining districts; and as employment can 
be obtained at an early age, tbe boys generally follow the* calling 
of their fathers, and a ?ery effective body of workmen is thus kept 
up. Indeed no man can become deaterous in the various depart- 
ments of the manufacture of slates unless he is trained to it from 
his youth, for nothing but experience can enable a man to judge 
of the quality of the rock on which he is engaged, and understand 
the best way of working it ; and it requires early and oootinued 
practice, to become expert at splitting and cutting slates. 

Upwards of three-fourths of tbe men employed in tbe quarrtea 
have their houses on tbe Bailechelish estate, and the houses are built 
with stone and lime, and slated. The acconunodation in each ia 
three apartments, all plastered, with chimnies and grates in the 
principal one, and an open garret above. To most of them a cow- 
house is attached, as almost every man wuh a family has a oow, 
which is pastured on the adjoining hill, and also a piece of ground, 
which produces annually from two to two and a half tons of pota* 
toes, as well as a small vegetable garden. A man occupying a 
house of the best description of those just mentioned, pays of year- 
ly rent for the house, L.2, 5s. ; pasture of cow, L.1, 6s» ; potato 
ground, &c. 15s.; total, L. 4, 6s. It b, perhaps, worthy of re* 
mark, that the land occupied as potato ground has been exclusive-> 
ly planted with that crop ever since its introduction to this country 
upwards of seventy years ago, and that at this.time^ the produce^ 
both in quantity and quality, is equal, if not superior, to that of ad- 
joining lands which undergo a rotation of cropa» The fuel used if 
entirely coals, which are brought in at a moderate freight, by vessels 
coming for slates. 



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LTSMORE AND AfPlN. ^51 

Oo the wbole^ the ocmditioa of the quarriera is, in most respects* 
superior to that of the people io the same atatioo of life \n the sur- 
romiding country* They are sensible of the advantages which they 
enjoy, and are an orderly and generally a well-behaved body of 
men in every respect'' 

V. — Pahochial Economy. 

Market'Town, — The nearest market^town to the parish is 
Oban, which is ten miles by land from Appin, and seven miles by 
sea from Lismore. Here there is a ready market, to a consider- 
able extent, for every kind of produce, and here also can every 
kind of supplies be obtained ; but since steam navigation has been 
established on tlie western coast, the principal trade is with Glas* 
gow and the south. 

FUlagts* — The villages in the parish are Clachan and Port- 
ramsa/in Lismore; Port-Ap|m, Tayribbi, and Portnacroish in 
Appiti, on the slate quarry of Laroch in Glencoe. In each of 
these three small villages there is a public'-house, a shop, and a 
smithy, except Portramsay, which is rather a fishing village ; and 
there are shoemakers, carpenters, and weavere in or in the imme* 
diate neighbourhood of each. The population of the largest of 
these villages does not amount to 100, with the exception of La« 
roch, which contains about 500, and is a growing place, owing to 
its trade in slates. 

Meant of Communication^ ^c. — There is a great improvement 
in the post-oflBce since the old Statistical Account was written* 
It was about that time that the post-office was first established in 
Appin, and the mail came only three times a week from Inverary; 
but now there is a daily post, contributing greatly to the improve- 
ment of the parish ; and there is a penny-post at lismore, to 
which there is a runner twice a week from Appin. There is also 
a penny-post in Kingerloch, to which there is a runner twice a 
week from Strontian. So easy and expeditious is now the com- 
munication with the south, that the newspaper that is published in 
Qlaf^gow io the morning is in Appin that night, and may be, and 
often is, in Lismore next morning. Another easy mode of commu- 
nication is by the steamers, which pass twice a week through the pa* 
riah during summer, and once a week during winter, and to Glas- 
gow, Inverness, Mull, and Skye. By these steamers, passengers 
and goods are conveyed speedily, and at a cheap rate, to and from 
every part of the country. There are no tolls in this parish. The 
rtuids are kept in excellent order, particularly in Appin, by con- 

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252 ARGYLESHIKE. 

verted statute labour. The roads in Lismore are not so good» 
and there are scarcely any roads at all in Kingerlocb> if we except 
two or three miles, which the proprietor made near the mansioD 
house. 

Ecdesiasiiecd State. — The Duke of Argyle is patron, and the 
parish church of Lismore is situated about three miles from the 
east end of the island, and seven miles from the west end. Ac- 
cording to the old Statistical Account, it was the chancel of thtf 
old Popish cathedral, and received its present roof in 1749. The 
fabric is supposed to have been placed so near the Appin end of 
the island, for the purpose of accommodating the Appin people, 
when there was no church in that part of the parish. The church 
of Appin, which is situated in the district of Strath, was built in 
1749. It is conveniently situated, being not farther than three 
miles from the extremities of the district attached to it all round. 
The church of Lismore accommodates 550, and the church of 
Appin 400 sitters. The seats are all free, as is generally the case 
in all country parish churches. The area is apportioned among 
the heritors, according to their valued rents, and the tenants of 
each have a right to free seats in the portion of the church be* 
longing to their landlords. Paupers have an equal right, and 
strangers are never refused admittance into any seat in which there 
is room. 

The manse was repaired about thirty years ago, and is at pre- 
sent receiving further repairs, and a large addition. Both churches 
were repaired during the incumbency of the late minister. 

The extent of the glebe is ten acres, between arable and pas- 
ture, and is valued at L.20 Sterling. The amount of (he stipend 
is 13j chalders of victuals, half meal half barley, paid in money 
according to the fiar prices of the county ; besides this, there is 
also a little money. 

There are no chapels of ease attached to the parish ; but there 
is a Government church at Duror, a district of Appin, situated 
about nine miles from the church of Appin ; and to it are attach- 
ed the districts of Duror and Glencoe, quoad sacra. There are 
two missionaries on the Royal Bounty establishment in the parish. 
One of them is in Kingerloch ; but his services are equally di- 
vided between Kingerloch and Acbaghavil, a district of the pa- 
rish of Morven. He officiates alternately at each station ; but 
there is no church at either. The people of Kingerloch assemble 
in the inn, and those of Acbaghavil in one of the neighbour's 



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LISMORE AND APPIN. 259 

houses. ' The other missionary is placed betiveen Glencoe and 
Glencreran, in the parish of Appin, and Glenetive in the parish 
of Ardchattan. His services are intended to be equally divided 
between the three glens. His charge is exceedingly difficult, ow- 
ing to the great distances over hill and dale, that he has to travel ; 
and it often happens in stormy weather, that he is not able to ob- 
serve the regular rotation. 

There are two Episcopalian chapels in this parish ; one near the 
slate quarry in Glencoe, and the other at Portnacroish, in Strath 
of Appin, and these are served by the same minister who offici- 
ates alternately in each, to respectable congregations. The ma- 
jority of the heritors of Appin are of this persuasion, and I am 
glad to have this opportunity of bearing testimony to their good 
wishes to the Establishment, as well as their kindness to its minis- 
ters. I do not think that there is a parish in Scotland in which 
the Episcopalian heritors deserve at the hands of the Establish- 
ment more honourable mention to be made of their names* 

The Roman Catholic Seminary, which was planted in Lismore 
in 1801, was removed from the island in 1881, and left no vestige of 
that religion behind them; but there is a Catholic chapel and priest's 
house near the slate quarry of Bailechelish. There are fifteen fa^ 
milies of them an that locality, of people who came there origin- 
ally from other places, to work in the quarries, and eventually got 
themselves established there with families. The priest of Fort- 
William visits them frequently and remains among them for a 
short period at a time, and I believe that there is a priest about to 
be, if he is not already, established permanently among them. 
Bishop Scott, otherwise Bishop of Eretria, residing in Glas- 
gow, is their Bishop. Besides these, there are no other Dissen- 
ters or Seceders in the parish, except three or four Anabap- 
tists in Lismore. The number of communicants in the Es- 
tabUshed Church is about 900, and divine service is generally 
well attended. Formerly the sacrament used to be dispensed al- 
ternately in Lismore and Appin, but for the last three years it 
has been dispensed both in Lismore and in Appin yearly. 

Education. — There are eight schools in the parish, and of these 
six are parochial, of which two are in Lismore, the parochial 
stent being divided among them. From the principal school in 
Appin, there emanated three branches, one of them is in Glen** 
creran, one in Glencoe, and the other in Duror, and each of 
the teachers gets a portion of the parochial salary. Besides theses 



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^S4 AR0YLB8HIRE. 

there are two sekoals tanght od tbe teacher's own adventure; 
one in Ltsmore and one in Appin, but these are not of a perma- 
nent character, as the teachers are emplojed from tmie to tune by 
the parents. Tbe branches of education usually tanght in all 
these schools, are Gaelic and English reading, writing, arithmetic, 
and book-keeping, also English Grammar and Latin, and oo» 
casionally the elementary parts of mathematics. 

Sr/u>olmaster^s Salaries, — Principal school ef Lismore, stent, 
Lil7; Queen Anne'& mortification, L.IO9 probable amount of 
school fees, LIO : — Second school of Lismore, stent, L.19 ; pro- 
bable amount of school fees, L12: — First school of Appin, stent, 
L20; Queen Anne's mortification, L.10; probable amount of 
school fees, L. 10:— School of Olencoe, stent, L. 18; probable 
amount of school fees, LS.: — School of Duror, stent, LtS; pit>«> 
bable amount of school fees, L.6 : — School of Glenereran, stent, 
L.6 ; probable amount of school fees, L*5. The expense of edu* 
cation per quarter, ranges from Is. to 2s. 6d. for common branches 
of instruction. For book keeping and mathematics, Ss., and La- 
tin 5s. a quarter. The people are better educated now, than they 
were forty years ago. There are few,, if any, in the parish be* 
tween six and fifteen years who were not at school ; indeed, there 
are few under forty who cannot read and write, but there may be 
IMIO above that age who have got no education whatever. 

Poor. — The number of persons on the permaAent roll is 78; 
and although there is but little money to be divided among them 
yearly, yet they are upon the whole pretty well supported. The 
people are very attentive to their wants, and give them both food 
and raiment where most wanted : a duty which is indispensable, as 
the pittance which they receive in money, being not more than 
about 10s. 6d. for each person yearly, would go but a short way to 
maintain them. This sum arises from collections at the church 
doors; from donations given' by some of tbe heritors at the time 
of dividing the poor's money ^ from benefactions of a few benevo- 
lent people deceased, and from mortcloth dues, and other dues 
levied in tbe parish. The late Mr Stewart of Fasnacloich has 
mortified L. 100 for behoof of tbe poor of Appin, the interest to 
be divided among them yearly, and this is done by the present 
Fasnacloich, who is the donor's grandson. The late Dr Stewart 
of Kil, in Appin, who died about fifteen years ago, bequeathed 
L.100 Sterling to the poor of the parish, with instructions that, 
at all events, the interest, and if need be, part of the capital shoold 



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i 



LISMORB AND APPIN. 2S6 

be given yearly, so long as the legacy lasts. This money is in the 
hands of Mr Downie of Appin, who implements regularly the 
testator's will, and, as drafts are made upon the capital, the money 
is now more than half expended. Besides these there is no other 
mode of providing funds for the benefit of the poor. There is no 
prison iu the parish, and there is but little use for any such ereo» 
tion, for although many of the people are poor, yet they are honesty 
and otherwise well behaved, so that the police is a sinecure and 
the constable only a name. 

Fairs.^-^There is only one fair held annually in Lismore, on 
the last Tuesday of October, but few strangers resort to it. It 
is held for the purpose of selling off any cattle that may remain 
unsold to the drovers who come to the island during the year to 
purchase stock for the south country markets. Such remains of 
stock as may be eihibited at this fair are generally either not sold 
at all, or exchanged among the people themselves, so that the 
Lismore market is but of little consequence. There are two fairs 
held yearly at Duror, in Appin : the one takes place in April, and 
the other in October. There are also cattle markets held in that 
locality, in order that the cattle from the neighbouring districts 
may be brought there to meet the drovers on their way from the 
north to the south country markets. 

Imu. — The public-houses in the parish are numerous, and more 
so than they ought to ba There is an excellent inn at the ferry 
of Bailechelish, on the north ; and there are also inns at Shian 
ferry, on the south ; at the ferry of Fort Appin ; and at the ferry 
of Crigan, on Lochcreran. A few miles north of these, is the inn 
at Portnacroish ; and still farther north, and within five miles of 
the inn of Bailechelish, there is the Duror inn : and there is also 
a small public-house at the farm of Clachaig, in Glencoe, which 
is very useful to people passing through the glen. These seem 
to be necessary, as the most of them are at the ferries ; but there 
are, besides these, several other little dram-shops, which are by no 
means necessary. 

Fuel — The fuel generally used in this parish is peats, and ** the 
process of making them in Lismore is very difficult, as they are 
first tramped and wrought with men's feet, and then formed by 
women's hands, all which is necessary, as the moss or stuff from 
which they are made, contains no fibres to make them cohere or 
stick together. This tedious operation consumes much of the 
farmer^s time, which, in a grain country, might be employed to 



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256 ARQTLESHIUE. 

better advantage in manuring and improving his land." The peats 
are now become scarce in Lismore, and consequently the people 
are under the necessity of going to a great distance for them over 
seas to Kingerlochi and Benderloch, in the parish of Ardchattan, 
so that, from the time, and trouble, and expense which are requir- 
ed to make and bring home the peats, first by boats over the seas, 
and then by carts overland, it would be cheaper for the people to 
burn coals. In Appin and Kingerloch the peats are made at 
much less expense, as they are found near at hand, and, from the 
fibrous and adhesive quality of the moss, are capable of being 
easily cut by an iron instrument made for the purpose. 

M18CBLLANEOUS Observations. 
It appears to me that Lismore is well calculated for a manufac* 
tiiring district, and I have little doubt that an establishment of the 
kind would be very beneficial to the parish, as it would open a 
source of employment and gain to the superabundance of the po* 
pulation. There is a never-failing supply of water to drive any 
machinery ; abundance of excellent and peaceable work people 
would be got in the parish ; and the land, if attended to, would 
produce ample provision for a large establishment, which would 
bring money into the country ; and as steam communication 
is so easy, the raw material might be brought from Olasgow- 
in four-and-twenty hours, and the manufactured goods might 
be landed there in equally short time. Liverpool, too, is within twa 
days' voyage of Lismore, so that, in every point of view, I think- 
that capital in the hands of enterprising parties might be turned 
to good account, at the same time that the country would be be^ 
nefited by the establishment of some manufactory in Lismore. 

1841. 



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PARISH OF SOUTH KNAPDALE* 

PRESBYTERY OF I^VERARYj SYNOD OT AR6YLB. 

THE REV, ALEXANDER MACKENZIE, MINISTER 



i. — Topography anb Natural History. 
, Name. — In Gaelic ^' Knap'' means hill, and '^ Daill'' a plain» 
a field, or a dale^ ** Knapdale/' therefore, signifies a dittrict of 
country compo$ed of kiUt and dales. 

The name is derived trom, and is vei^ descriptive of, the ap« 
pearance of that part of the country of inrhich South Knapdale 
forms a portion. The districjt of Kuapdale is divided into two pa-* 
risbes, the one north, the other south, to distinguish them accords 
iDg t^tbeir relative geographical position. 

Boundaries^ — South Knapdale is bounded on the north by 
North Knapdale ; on the north-east, by Kilmichael Glassery, and 
Lochgilphead ; on the east and south-east, by Loch fine. East Loch 
Tarbeert, the isthnius of Tarbert, and West Loch Tarbert ; on 
the south by the parish of Kilberry ; and on the west, by the 
Sound of Jura. 

Extent. — From Daill on the iiorth*east, to Barnellan on the 
southeast, the length, by following the line of the public road, 
is about 24 miles. From Lochfine to Lochsween, the breadth of 
the parish is about 10 miles, so that the superficial extent may 
be computed at ^40 square miles ; of this surface, however, a 
space of 80 square miles or thereby is occupied by Lochcaolis^ 
port, leaving an area of about 160 square miles. As there has 
been no regular survey of the parish, this is merely an approxima- 
tion to the true extent. 

Topographical Appearances. — The surface of the parish is ex* 
tremely hilly, approaching rather to the mountainous. The hitl 
of Uiabb Goail, which extends from Inverneil) to Barnellan, a 
dbtance of twelve miles, is the highest in the parish. The view 
from its summit is varied, extensive, and interesting. No 



* Drawn up by tho late incMnabentt 4ie Rer. Ouneao Rankin. 
AROYLB. ft 



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258 ARGYLESHIRB. 

smooth or undulating outline meets the eye at any point, but 
all is sharp, rugged, and abrupt. The many lochs and arms of 
the sea giTe a character to the whole, which no inland Tiew cao 
ever posjsess. The mouth of the Clyde, the Kyles of Bute, the 
Sound of Kilbrannan, the North Channel towards Ireland, West 
Loch Tarbert, the Sound of Jura, Lochcaolisport, and Locbfine 
are distinctly risible from the top of Lliabh Gaoil ; and yet so 
completely is the distance occupied by the islands which are in* 
terspersed in every direction, that the Atlantic is nowhere vi- 
sible. 

Turn the eye to any point you choose, and the prospect from 
the top of this hill is most extensive ; Bute with the Cnmbray Isles, 
and the coast of Ayrshire are seen in one direction ; Arran witk 
its splintered peaks is a most conspicuous object ; Kiotyre is risi* 
ble throughout its whole extent ; Ireland with the Isle of Kathlio, 
are so distinctly seen, that few people would believe them to be 
fifty miles distant The northern parts of Ireland appear high, 
and in exact keeping with the other objects around ; Gigha, and 
the little isles at the point of Knap come next ; Isla, as see^ froni 
this hill, has not a striking appearance, but its neighbour. 
Jura, amply makes op for its deficiencies; Scarba appears, what 
it is in reality, a high mountain rising at once from the sea; Midi 
is seen very high, and there is a bolder swell about its moantaios 
than those of- Arran, which gives it a grander appearance. Ben 
Cruachan and Ben Lomond are boldly in relief, as well as many 
of the Perthshire mountains, the tops of which are clearly seen 
ftom Lliabh Gaoil. Other hills of less height and interest run 
parallel with Lliabh Gaoil, and are separated from one another by 
deep and well-sheltered dales. 

The extent of arable land bears but a small proportion to the 
pasture, and is very much intersected by bills and marshy grounds. 
With regard to the pasture in the valleys, it is very good ; but to- 
wards the summits of the hills, it becomes rather coarse and 
scanty. 

. Hydrography. — There are five or six lakes in the parish, most 
of which abound with salmon trout of good quality and flavoor. 
These lakes, however, add very little beauty or interest to tlie 
landscape, as* with the exception of one or two, they are not to be 
seen, except from the summits of the highest hille in the paritb.' 
The parish abounds with rivers and streamlets, all of which are 
fordable in summer. During (he floods of whiter, the larger ones 



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SOUTH KNAPDALE. S59 

in many parts aria impassable, and even the smallest assumes a 
formidable appearance. Most of them afford some amusement 
' to the angler, but the best trouting streams are the Ormsary and 
Locbhead rivers. Such of them as pass in the direction of the 
principal roads, have bridges thrown over them. 

Lochcaolisport is an arm of the Atlantic, which intersects the 
western part of the parish for five or six miles. The western 
shore of the loch is bold, abrupt, and rocky ; the eastern side rises 
gradually from the water's edge ; and both sides are richly clothed 
with copsewood. There are several beautiful hays in the loch, 
which afford safe anchorage. The best anchorage, however, is at 
the head of the loch, within Ellanfada. This island affords shel- 
ter from the heavy swells occasioned by the south«west gales. 
From tlie northern blast, the anchorage is protected by the am- 
phitheatre of hills which surround the head of the loch. The 
water is shallow, and the beach extends a considerable distance 
from high-water mark, and is still receding. This appears from a 
stratum of shell-land, which is met with in the glebe about two feet 
under the surface. The same stratum is distinctly seen on the 
banks of the Locbhead river. By an artificial embankment, a 
considerable addition might be made to the arable lands of Balla* 
gheamhragan, and Clachbreok, the properties of Mr Campbell of 
Ormsary and Mr Campbell of Kilberry respectively. There are 
several islets in the loch and on the coast off the point of Knap,-^ 
EUan-fada, already mentioned, £llan-na-muick, and Lea- Elian. 
Close to the point of Knap there is a rock, on which the McMil- 
lan's charter to the lands of Knap is said to have been engraved 
in Celtic characters. Of this no trace now remains, nor do the 
McMillans possess any part of the lands of Knap. To the south- 
west of the point of Knap, there is a dangerous sunk rock called 
Bow- Knap, the top of which is seen at low- water during spring- 
tides. Near the coast, on the north-west side, is £llan-na-leek. 
All these are the property of Duncan Campbell, Esq. of Ross. 
There are also Elian-more, Ellan-na-gamhna, and Core-Elian, 
the property of Neil Malcolm, Esq. of Pol tal loch. All these 
islands are famed for the quality of the beef and mutton produced 
by them. In this loch, a great variety of fish is caught, viz. sal- 
mon, trout, haddock, whiting, sethe, ling, skate, turbot, hallibut, 
flounders, sole, &c. The John Dory is occasionally caught in it. 
Formerly herrings regularly frequented the loch, but, for some 
years past^ they have mostly deserted it. When they do appear, 



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2^0 ARGYLESHIRE. 

they remain but a very short time, disappointing the hopes of 
the fishermen* For some seasons, there had been a salmon-fish* 
ery at Corie. It was found not to pay, and has been given up. 
The quality of the salmon was excellent. Mussels are found is 
great abundance, but are not of a good quality, and are used only 
for bait. Oysters are found in small quantities. A few cocklesi 
limpets, and spout-fish, are also to be found about the shores of 
the loch. 

fr<W«.^— There is a considerable extent of ground under wood^ 
both natural and planted. The plantations consist of larcfa^ 
Scotch spruce, and silver firs, ash, beech, plane, and willow of 
imany kinds. The natural and indigenous trees are chiefly oak, 
ash, birch, hazel, and holly, &c. The natural wood is both orna- 
mental and useful, — useful for its timber and bark, and also be^ 
cause of the shelter it affords wintering cattle. 

There is a good deal of young plantation put down, which, in 
process of time, will tend much to beautify the landscape, and in- 
crease the value of property. The oldest, largest, and finest trees 
are to be seen at Achindarroch, Inverneill, and Rarmore. The 
young plantations at Ormsary are very extensive, and (except on 
the tops of the hills) very thriving. When Mr Campbell com* 
pletes his plan of continuing them to the shore on the south, and 
laying down some clumps to the north of the house, Ormsary will 
be one of the best sheltered and beautiful places of residence to 
be met with. There is an excellent garden and tasteful shrub* 
bery near the mansion. The old garden, now forming part of 
the shrubbery, was, in the days of yore, from its producUveness» 
called the orchard of Caoliside. 

Botany, — All the principal residences in the parish have their 
gardens, their flower-plots, and shrubberies, in which may be seen 
the ordinary flowers and plants, both indigenous and exotic The 
rarest plants noticed in the parish are the following, viz. 

Nuphar pamila Cotyledon Umbilicus Rumex maritimiit 

Nymphaea alba lK>beIia Dortmanna Samolut Valeraodi 

Epipactis ensifolia Parnassia palustris Droaera Anglica 

LisUsra Nidtia.Avifl Pinguicula Lusitanica rotundifolia 

— — cordata — — vulgaris Saxifraga stellaris 

Corallorhixa ionau Hypericum Androsceroum Chryfospleoam akomife- 

Habenaria bifolia __». quadrangulum lium 

Pyrola media Convolvulus sepium ....«._.. oppositifo- 

Hypericum elodes Circsea lutetiana Hum 

Anagallls tenella Lythnim salicaria Alcbemilta alpioa 

Lyoopus Europaeus Aster tiifolium vulgaris 

Jaaione monuna Crithmum maritimum SaxUraga axoidka 

Zoology. — There is nothing remarkable in the zoolcjgy of this 



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SOUTH KNAPDALE. 2«l 

parish. Roe deer, hares^ and the common sorts of game are 
found in it. Pheasants have been lately introduced, and are in- 
creasing. Immense flocks of widgeons annually visit Locbcaolis- 
port, and remain from the month of October till the month of 
April. In severe winters, a few swans are seen in ihe loch, and 
remain for some time. 

Inseeti. — The rarer insects found in the parish are' the follow- 
ing, vi2. 

Cireamdila campeetris Ototrup«8 syliraticus Helodea Philandrli 



Carabus nitens Phylopertha hortioola Helops pallidua 

- glabratus Celasua aurau Aloptrus triguUi 

• a^ensis Lamia textor Rhagium bi&sciatum 



■ clathratus Elater Heloseiceui Eliosiocampa nuestria 

Tachypus Andrea Lampyris noctiluca Xerene bastata 

Mifiropbagus humator Donacia micans Plycbopoda marginata, &o. 

II. — Civil History. 

The district of Knapdale appears to have been originally in 
possession of two clans, now nearlv extinct in that quarter, the 
MacMillans and the MacNeills. 

Professor Skene, in his work on ihe Highlands of Scotland^ 
states, that the greater part of South Knapdale was possessed 
Jby a branch of the clan Gille Mbaoil, where their chief was 
known by the name of MacMillan of Knap; and though the fa- 
mily is now extinct, many records of their former power are 
still to be found in the district One of the towers of that fine 
ancient edifice, Castle Sween, in North Knapdale, bears the name 
of MacMillan's Tower; and there is a stone cross in the old 
chutchyard of Kilmory Knap, upwards of twelve feet high, richly 
sculptured, which has upon one side the representation of a High- 
land chief engaged iu hunting the deer, with the following inscrip- 
tion in ancient Saxon characters underneath the figure : '* Haec 
est Crux Alexandre MacMillan." 

In later times, the Campbells had possession of the principal 
parts of Knapdale, and were chiefly retainers of the family of 
Argyle. 

Land-owners. — The land-owners of the parish are, Duncan 
Campbell, Esq. of Inverneill and Knap ; Alexander Campbell, 
Esq. of Achjndarroch ; John Graham Campbell, Esq. of Sbirvain ; 
William A. Campbell, Esq. of Ormsary ; John Campbell, Esq. 
.of Stonefield ; Lachlan McNeill Campbell, Esq. of Kintarbert and 
Drimdrissaig; John Campbell, Esq. of Kilberry ; William Camp- 
bell, Esq. of Dunmore ; Keill Malcolm, Esq. of Pohalloch ; the 
heirs of Sir Chacles McDonald Lockhart of Largie; William 



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262 ARGVLESHIBE. 

Furlong, Esq. of Erines. Three of these, viz. Alexander Camp- 
bell, Esq. of Achindarroch, Wtlliatn A. Campbell, Esq. of Onn- 
sary, and William Furlong, Esq. of Erines, are resident, and oc<* 
cupy plain substantial mansions. The house of Achindarrocfa is 
situated on the banks of the Crinan Canal ; the grounds about it 
have been tastefully laid out by John MacNeill, Esq. of OakSeM, 
the former proprietor ; and we have no doubt the beauty of the 
place will be greatly enhanced under the skilful management of 
the present public spirited proprietor. There are good substan- 
tial mansions on the properties of Inverneill, Erines, Ortosary, and 
Drimdrissaig. Mr Campbell of Stonefield has built a large and 
elegant house at Barmore in this parish. 

Parochial Registers. — Registers of births and marriages have 
been kept in the parish since 1771 ; though entries appear to have 
been correctly made, the book containing the registrations has 
not been well taken care of, some of the leaves having been lost, 
and the whole much sullied. Since the appointment of the pre- 
sent incumbent in 1B06, every attention has been paid to them. 

Antiquities, — At one time, there were the remains of seven an- 
cient chapels to be found in this parish ; now there are but three 
to be seen, one in Elian-more- vie- O^Charmaig, one at Kilmory 
Knap, and one at Cove. The chapel in Ellanmore was built by 
MacO^Charmaig, an ancient proprietor of this island ; it is arch* 
ed over and covered with flags, and, notwithstanding its antiquity, 
is in a wonderful state of preservation. Within the chapel in a 
recess in the wall, is a stone coffin, in which the remains of tb^ 
priests are said to have been deposited. The figtire of a naked 
man is cut on the lid of the coffin ; the coffin, also, for ages, served 
' the saint as a treasury, and this, perhaps, might have been the 
purpose for which it was at first intended. Till of late, not a 
stranger set foot on the island, who did not conciliate the fiivour 
of the saint, by dropping a small coin into a chink between the Kd 
of the coffin and its side. On an eminence not far off, is a pedestal, 
with a cross and the figure of a naked man ; and near to the cross is 
a cave, which, as tradition says, at one time produced wonderful 
effects upon such as had the hardihood to enter it It seems now 
to have lost its wonderful properties, as people seem to go into it, 
without dreading any fatal consequences. Saint Cormaig also 
founded the church of Kilvie O^Charmaig, the mother church 
of the two Knapdales ; and after a fife spent in acts of piety 
and devotion, he was buried in his native island. His tomb^ 



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60UTH KNAPDALE. 



S6a 



« little oblong building, ele?ated about ibreo feet above the 
ground, remains uninjured by time. The saint w said to resent 
with the most summary vei^anceany indignity offered to tbis mo- 
oumeot Tbe ehapel of Kilmorie Knap seems to have been the 
most considerable in South Knapdale, Its walls are almost en- 
tire ; a beautiful obelisk or cross stands on the west side of the 
burying ground. 

The cbapel at Cove, built, as tradition says, by Saiut Colum*- 
ba, had, till of late, undergone but little dilapidation. Near this 
chapel, is a consecrated cave, which gives its name to the farm on 
which the chapel is situated. Its altar and font still remain, and 
over the former, a cross is cut on the solid rock by no unmaster- 
ly hand. It was after St Columba left this place, that he sailed 
for lona and built his famous seminary there. 

Among the antiquities of the parish it may be mentioned, that 
at StronchuUin on the coast of Lochfine, and not far from tbe 
church of Invemeill, there is a thatched cottage still standing, 
and in perfect preservation, which is at least two hundred years 
old. The walls are thick and substantial ; the cupples are of oak, 
very massive, and still perfectly sound. This cottage is situated 
at the foot of the hill, over which, at that time, went the road to 
Tarbert. It is said, that when Alastar Macdonald (son of Colla 
Giotacb,) was ravaging Argyleshire in 1643»on his way to Kintyr«, 
he came to this house, &iot with hunger, and that wearied with bis 
journey, he demanded of the landUdy of the house something to 
eat, when the poor woman gave him a drink of milk, the only thing 
perhaps which the house could afford. Alastar received the 
draught very thankfully, and in token of his gratitude, ordered his 
men to spare tbis house where he had been so kindly entertained. 
<« Caomhain,*^ (says Alastar in the language of his country,) 
^* Caomhain am Bothan beag ain buin na beinne^fur an dfhuair 
nd an deoch blutinne^^^ — (spare the little hut at the foot of tbe bill 
where I got tbe drink of milL) 

1 1 1. — Population. 

Tkm fopaUtioQ m 175&» aocordiiig to Dr Webster, was • . 1292 

in 1772, according to Mr Hyodman, it was - - 1600 

By Oo^ernment census in 1821, males, - • MS 

females* 875.-484I 

Da do. 1831, males, - - - 1098 

fcmales, - 1098U-21S7 

Bo. do. 1841, - - .1587 

The population of that district of the parish, which has been 

anoexed to the parish of Lochgilphead was in 1881, between 500 



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264* JRGYlBdHIRK. 

and 600. That o( the district attached to the mission of Tai^ 
bert might be from 600 to 700 souls. 

The Gaelic is the language generally spoken throiighooC 
the parish. Most of the young people understand the EnglUhf 
as greater pains are taken with them in school, and as it is now 
more generally used than formerly. Many of the youth are ia 
the practice of resorting to the low country for serfiee. Divine 
service is always conducted in English and Gadic. 

IV. — Industrv/ 

As the soil of this parish is not very productive, and as the cli<' 
mate is cold and variable from its nearness to the Atlantic Oceaui 
the occupiers of land find it more convenient and profitable, and 
less expensive, to convert some of their inferior arable to sheep 
walks, and pasture for black*cattle ; and consequently the number 
of persons employed in agriculture is comparatively small. The 
possessions are generally so small, that the tenants and their fa« 
milies are able to perform all the labour requisite, without the ne« 
cessity of engaging servants or labourers to assist them. The 
black-cattle are of the West Highland breed, and in the larger 
stocks are of the best quality. At the cattle shows in the district 
of Argyle, prizes have been frequently awarded to proprietors and 
tenants connected with this parish. The sheep are of tlie blacks 
faced kind, which are found to suit the climate and rough pasture 
of this parish, better than the Cheviot or any other breed, and the 
store-masters pay particular attention to improving their stoc*ks. 

The crops usually cultivated are, oats, bear or barley, peasoi 
beans, turnip, and potatoes* Clover and rye-grass are sown vrilh 
barley and oats after potatoes. The culture of potatoes is well 
understood, and much attended to. It was found impossible to 
obtain such returns of the quantities sown or planted, as could be 
of any use in a statistical point of view. The returns are, oats, 3 i 
bear or barley, 6; potatoes, 10; in a few instances they have 
been equal to 20. A considerable quantity of this vahiable root 
is annually exported, from the price of which the tenants pay a 
part of their rents. In winter, there are great quantities of tangle 
cast ashore all along the coast of Lochcaoltsport, which is care- 
fully collected for land intended for potatoes and bear. 

There are belonging to the parish between forty and fifiy boatif 
employed in the herring fishery on Lochfine. Each ImmU is man* 
ned by three of a crew, and may be worth, nets and all, about 
L. 60 or L. 70 each. Some of the new boats, which are partially 



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60UTH RNAPDALB, M^ 

decked^ dnd larger than the old ones, cost L. 120 Sterling before 
they are fully equipped with masts» sails, anchors, nets, and oord« 
age. In favourable fishing seasons, they make at an average 
L.70 Sterling; but^ from their innprovident habits, and occasional 
failures in the fishings^ and expense of keeping their boats and 
tackling in repair, the 6shernien are generally very poor. In 
many instances, they are very indolent; and when the fishing fails 
they are quite unfit and disinclined to engage in any other kind 
of labour. 

Sent — The average rent of land per acre may be stated at Is. 
The avenige rate of grazing a cow per year may be estimated at 
L. 2, and of a sheep, 4s. on the hill pasture. 'I'he average rent 
per acre may be thought very low, but it will be recollected thai 
the proportion of moor pasture in this parish is much greater than 
in any of the surrounding parishes ; at the low rate of Is. per acre, 
the parish would yield a rental of L. 5371 Sterling or thereby. 

DweliiTiff' houses of Tenants. — On some of the larger properties^ 
the houses of the tenantry have been much improved, and sub- 
stantial farm-steadings erected for them. At Lochhead, the 
property of Mr Campbell of Shirvain, there is an excellent dwel- 
ling-house, with a new and complete set of slated offices, and a 
thrashing-mill, worked by water (the only one in the parish). At 
Ballyheamhragan, the property of Mr Campbell of Ormsary, 
there is a slated dwelling-house and offices, built by the proprietor. 
He and Mr Campbell of Kintarbert have built several comfortable 
cottages, which have separate sleeping apartments ; an accommo- 
dation which the old cot houses do not afford. It is a vast irn* 
provement, and conduces to the health, comfort, delicacy, and 
morals of the people. It is hoped that this example will be fol- 
lowed. 

V. — Parochial EconobIt^ 
Crinan Canal* — The Crinan Canal was undertaken ^nd com* 
inenced under the auspices of John Duke of Argyle, (in which, I 
think, Breadalbane acquiesced,) who obtained reports, surveys, and 
estimates from the late Sir John Rennie, civil-engineer, favour«> 
able to the execution of the work, in connection with nautical re^ 
ports from Captain Joseph Huddart ; the result of which was the 
formation of a Company under an Act passed in 1793, authoriz- 
ing the formation of the canal, and which accordingly was com- 
fDenced that year. 

' rhU part of the Account furnished by Will Urn Tho:Ti8on» Esq. Ardrissaig. 

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2Sd AROTLB8HIUe. 

The eoime of the caoal from where it unites with the tea in 
the Loebgilp branch of Loehfine, passes for about two and a-half 
miles about due norths for the most part along the shore of South 
Knapdale on Lochgilp» and from tbenoe it continues to skirt Uie 
parish in a nortIi«west direction for two and a half miles fiutber, 
passing through the vale of Dail, which forms the summit leviel of 
the canal ; and where it forms the march between Sooth Knapdale 
and Glassary parish, the remaining four miles of the canal passea 
along, and for the most part forms the north boundary of North 
Knapdale along the shore of Inner Loch Crinan, till it enters the 
sea at Criaan. The whole extent is nine miles. The lochs are 
fifteen in number, eight of eight feet rise, ascending from Loch^ 
gilp to the summit of the canal, and seven on the west side of the 
summit of nine feet rise, falling down to Loch Crinan. The twe 
lochs at the Crinan entrance are 108 feet long by 27 feet wide^ 
all the others are 96 feet long by 24 feet wide, the increased di« 
meosioBs of the former being with the view of admitting vessels to 
a projected graving dock never carried into eSecL Depth of wa- 
ter in the eanal is only required and maintained at 10 feet, but 
13 feet might be carried. 

The canal is principally supplied with water by two small reseiw 
voirs, of about six acres each, in the parish of North Knapdaloi 
and by six principal reservoirs, all marching between the parishes 
of North and South Knapdale — ^varying in depth from eight to 
twenty*ive (set, and in extent from fifteen to forty*five acres each; 
and the whole so arranged by natural and artificial means, that the 
water is directed to waste from the one to the other, until all are 
full, and ultimately to send the overplus water to Loch Sweeo ia 
the Sound of Jura, which formerly found its way to Lochfine and 
Loch Crinan. The rise and fall of tide at Ardrissaig is eight to 
nine feet during neaps, and from ten to twelve feet during.springs. 
At Crinan, the rise and fall during neap-tides is only four to six 
feet, and during springs, six to eight feet* The level of high water 
at Crinan is three to four feet higher than the level of high water 
at Ardrissaig. High water at Ardrissaig at full and change ef the 
asoon takes place at twelve noon, and at Crinan four hours lateiw 

The more immediate object of the Crinan Caoal was to enable 
the coasting and fishing trade of the West Highlands and the 
Qyde to avoid the dangerous and circuitous route by the Mull of 
Kintyre, in their mutual intercourse ; a matter of no small imports 
ance, not only as regards the preservation of life and property, but 



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SOUTH KNAPDALC. 267 

in fiicilitating the jntercouree between a inanufiicturing and mer*- 
oantile eomimintty, ^tb a great extent of isolated coast and ootin« 
try in the West Highlands, much to their mutual bene6t. Had the 
execution of the canal been limited to these views, it would not 
only have realized all that at the time ought to have been 
anticipated from it, but in all probability would have produced • 
at least some part of that pecuniary benefit to the subscribers, to 
which they were entitled ; but in place of limiting the dimensions 
and consequent expense of the canal to the above legitimate ob- 
ject, it entered into the speculation of a number of those who em- 
barked in it, to form the canal sufficiently capacious, to admit the 
Baltic and West India trade, — a view that was begun to be acted 
on, and subsequently departed firom, but in a degree that, while 
it produced a canal inadequate to the enlarged view, a canal was 
at same time produced, larger than necessary for the local and 
more legitimate objects of the undertaking, and which, from the 
imperfect or incomplete execution of some parts, could not he taken 
full advantage of, even had the trade required it ; and this conse- 
quently led to an expense which has (Hirdened and embarrassed 
the canal ever since, an embarrassment, no doubt, much increased 
by natural difficulties in the execution of the work, leaving nothing 
to the subscribers but the merit of conferring an important public 
benefit at their individual and private expense. 

The stock of the Company was intended to consbt of ^409 
shares of L* 50 each, creating a stock of L. 190,000, which was 
subscribed for to the extent of 1963 shares^ equal L. 108^150; 
but ultimately, from the withdrawal and forfeiture of shares, they 
settled down to a capital of Li 92,550, in 1851 shares of L. 50 
each, a great part of which were obtained within the county and 
other places in the west of Scotland, and the remainder were fill* 
ed up from England. Many of the former may be considered to 
have derived some benefit in return for their subscriptions in the 
improved value of property adjacent to, and to the westward of 
the canal ; but to all others their subscriptions have produced no* 
thing. After experiencing difficulties from natnral causes imped* 
ing and increasing the expense of the work so as to lead to pecu«' 
niary difficulties, which probably again affected the due and pro* 
per execution of the work, the canal was opened for the passage 
of vessels, incomplete as it then was, in the month of July 1601, 
to effect which a loan was obtained in 1799 from the Barons of 
Exchequer in Rcotland, of L.25,000, on an assignment of the tolls 



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^^68 ARGTl EBHtRF. 

of the canat in security. And in the same year in which it was 
opened (1801,) a farther loan of L.9810 was raised among a num- 
ber of the original subscribers on transferable securities, bearing 
interest at the rate of five per cent, per annum^ on none of which 
has the interest been paid or the capital liquidated. 

In January 1805, an accident occurred creating an interruptioD 
to the canal, and leading to an expense in repair, by the pressure 
of water in the canal blowing up a part of the canal embankment 
passing through a moss on the estate of Oakfield, which led to an 
application to Government for a further loan of L. 25,000; which 
wasobtained from the Exchequer in England that same year, and was 
expended in repairing this damage, or rather in altering the course 
ot the canal for about a quarter of a mile into firmer grounds,— 
forming a freestone pier at Ardrissaig, the eastern entrance to 
;the canal, — strengthening and otherwise securing an embankment 
at Bellanach I^y, in the west tract of the canal, which, from the 
.soft, silty foundation on which it is formed, had greatly subsided, — 
securing an increased supply of water with which the canal had 
previously been very inadequately supplied, — and on otherimprove- 
ments which the work stood in need of. In January 1811, an* 
other serious accident occurred by the breaking down of the em- 
bankment of a recently formed reservoir, which occasioned serious 
damage to the lock-gates, embankments, and other works on the 
canal adjoining the summit level, which was flooded and injured 
to a great extent, and for the repair of which L*5000 was applied 
for and obtained from government ; but this proving inadequate, and 
all other sources having failed, a credit of L.2000 to L.^)00 was 
obtained from bankers in Glasgow, on the private security of the 
Duke of Argyle and his late brother, who, with the disinterested li« 
berality inherent in that noble family, came forward on this occasion 
to secure the benefit of the former expenditure to the public, and 
which loan, it is inferred, has been paid by and remains a debt due 
to the Argyle family. 

The above presents a view of the state and pecuniary circumstan- 
ces of the Crinan Canal, down to 1814, when the Company was bur* 
dened with a debt of L.67,810, exclusive of interest. It was under 
these circumstances that the writer's connection with the canal in 
1814 took place; and shortly after, he took an opportunity to 
draw up a Report for the governor and directors, which detailed 
the state of the canal, and pointed out the repairs and improve- 
ments that appeared to be required to render it more secure, efll- 



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SOUTH KKAPDALK. 269 

cienty and better adapted to the trade than it had hitherto proved. 
This led to a renewed application to Government for farther Vid, 
and to an Act in 1816, empowering the Barons of Exchequer in 
Scotland to advance the sum of L. 19,300, to repair and improve' 
the state of the canal ; but which sum Government saw proper to 
direct to be expended, under the management of the Commission* 
ers for the Caledonian Canal. Previous to the expenditure of 
this sum, means were, in 1815 and 1816, adopted to renew the em- 
bankment of Glen Clachaig, which had occasioned the damage in 
1811, and to enlarge other reservoir embankments, so as to increase 
the supply of water, previously very inadequate. The expenditure 
of the grant of L. 19,300 took place in 1817, under the direction 
of the late Thomas Telford, Esq. ci^il-engineer, principally by 
contract; and included an extensive repair and renewal of lock- 
gates, cutting down acute rocky bends, and straightening portions 
of the banks, new bridges of cast iron, with a breakwater to en- 
large and increase the shelter and extent of harbour at Ardrissaig, 
&c. Afterwards, by order of the Treasury, the pecuniary affairs 
of the canal were placed under control of the Barons of Exchequer 
at Edinburgh, to whom all accounts and vouchers are statedly for- 
warded, — while the management of the canal is by the same au- 
thority confided to the Commissioners for the Caledonian Canal, 
to whom stated monthly and all other reports are made and in- 
structions received, regarding the work and the management of 
the canal. 

After the above repair, the annual revenue of the canal has 
been sufficient for its support, and for improvements and renewal 
of works ; still the canal requires and admits of improvement, 
which, under the pecuniary circumstances in which it is seen to 
be placed, can only be effected at the public expense. The ave- 
rage annual outlay en the canal for ten years preceding 1839, in 
salaries and wages of officers, lock-keepers, and others, and in 
furnishings and labour for ordinary repairs, is L.1254, 12s. Id.; 
and for extraordinary works, being improvements and important 
renewals of decayed works, L.570, Os« 6d.; besides which, up- 
wards of L.2000 of previous reserved revenue was expended in 
extraordinary repairs in 1835, and upwards of L.1000 in 1837 for 
a new steam-boat pier and slip in the harbour of Ardrissai^ 

The canal was originally formed of larger dimensions than the 
trade which could be reasonably expected to take advantage of it; 
required ; but the change which has since taken place in A^ 



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270 ARQYLB8HIBJB. 

OfMMtiiig trade of the country by the iotrodoction of steam na- 
vigatioD, renders it now much too small; and when the trade 
between Clyde and the north-east of Scotland through the Cale- 
donian Canalf which pasees through the Crinao Canal, is Tiewed 
in connection with the trade of the Crinan Canal between Clyde 
and the extensive range of coast and country, islands, ftc of the 
West Highlands, an enlargement of the Crinan Canal on public 
grounds is certainly much called for. The number of passengers 
conveyed through the Crinan Canal by steam- packets has in* 
creased from 2400 in 1820, to 21,406 in 1837, notwithstanding 
the impediments which stand in the way of this trade, and which 
have been partially removed during the past season, by the intro* 
duction of a passage-boat on the canal, which greatly promotes 
the speed of the passage between Greenock and Oban, and In- 
verness. 

The local benefit which has accrued from this canal is also 
deserving of notice. At the harbour of Ardrissaig, a village 
of respectable appearance, and containing a population of about 
400, has grown up since the canal commenced ; the reaideot 
(euars and other inhabitants of which, attracted by the canal and 
the harbour, are supported principally by the Lochfine herring 
fishing, and by the general resort of travellers by steam-packets 
frequenting this harbour from the Clyde. During the fishing sea- 
son, there are at times upwards of 100 fishiog-boats frequenting 
the harbour, and in summer there are usually two, sometimes three 
steam-b<>ats daily from Glasgow, conveying goods and passengers 
to and from the adjacent country, with a daily boat, and fkequeot- 
ly two during winter. The number of passengers who are land- 
ed and shipped at Ardrissaig throughout the year, exclusive of 
those passing through the canal, is estimated fi*om pretty conreet 
data to be at present about 24,000 ; and the cattle, sheep, and 
lambs shipped here are also considerable. Both Ardrissaig and 
Loohgilphead owe their rise and present circumstances to the 
fostering care and interest which John McNeill, Esq., late of 
Oakfield, with his late father (whose property these villages 
were) took in prompting the interests of individuals, and of the 
communities of these places. 

Th^ average annual amount of revenue derived from the Crioan 
Canal from 1st January 1802, to 3 1st December 1816, inclusive, 
is L.999, Us. 4id. ; and from 1st January 1818»to9l8t Decem- 
ber 1838^ inclusive, L,1770, 178. l^d.; and as it may be inte* 



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80UTH KNAPDALE. 271 

resting to obsenretbe number and tonnage, && of vessels passing, 
and the sources of revenue derived from the canal^ there is sub^ 
joined a statement exhibiting these particulars on an average of 
seventeen years, down to aist December 1838. 

From the year 182*2 to the year 1838^ both inclusive, seventeen 
jears; number of boats, 840 ; vessels, 1006 ; tonnage, S3|M5w 

DiiM from tktcs, 



fishing tmde, 
Igoodi, 



fST" 



ReDU, 



■team-boat*, 
▼csaelt ID ballast, 
harbour and wbtaf, 



L.2e9 13 lU 


216 9 


H 


195 16 


n 


102 12 10' 


170 n 


Hi 


ae 4 


4 


21 10 


1 


999 19 


1 


142 7 


7 


111 11 


87 17 


5 


L.1764 2 10 



Total, 

EedemaMxil State. — The ancient name of the parishes of North 
jind South Knapdale when united, was Ktlvicocharmaig. They 
were disjoined about the year 1730. By the deed of disjunction 
4he mkibter of this parish was appointed to preach alternately at 
Achoish and Inverneill, and every sixth Sunday at TarberL 
About the year 1775, a mission was established at Tarbert by the 
•Committee for the management of the Royal Bounty, comprehend, 
iog the south part of South Knapdale, and the north part of the 
parish of Kilcalmooell. A church was then built at Tarbert, and a 
missionary appointed to preach there every Sabbath. Thus (ex- 
eepl during vacancies) the minister of South Knapdale was relieved 
from preaching at that station. But in terms of the deed of dbjuno- 
tion, he continued to officiate alternately at Inverneill and Acbeish 
-until the year 1829, when, in consequence of the annexation of the 
north part of the parish to the quoad mcra parish of Lochgilphead, 
jmd the smallness of the congregation that was to attend pub* 
lie worship at Inverneill, be was directed and authorised by the 
Presbytery to preach there every third Sabbath, and at Achoish 
two Sabbaths successively. 

There are two churches in the parish, the one at Achoish near 
•the manse, the other at Inverneill, six miles distant. The road 
between the two churches is excessively hilly, ill lined, and not 
kept in good repair. Both churches were built about the same 
time, in the year 1775. A few years ago, they were seated, and 
are in tolerable repair. Including the communion table seats, they 
-pontain 250 sitters eiMh« In the church at Achoish, there are no 



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272 ARGYLE8HIRB. 

galleries. A gallery \u the west end would be a great accommoda- 
tion, for though on ordinary occasions there is suflScient room for 
the congregation, yet in summer the church is sometimes crowd- 
ed, and the hearers feel uncomfortable* The expense of erecting 
a gallery would be but trifling. 

In the church of Inverneill, therq is room enough and to sparer 
In the year 1828, a government church was built at Lochgilphead, 
and a district of this parish including Ardrissaig, and the farm.s to 
the north of it, were aunezed to that quoad sacra parish* The 
inhabitants of that district now attend public worship at I^chgilp- 
head. There are about thirty families within a reasonable dis- 
tance of loverneill. On the west side of Inverneill hill, there are 
about 180 communicants, and on the east €ide attached to Invert 
neill district, about 20. Within that section of the parish annexed 
to the mission of Tarbert, there are about 120 communicants. 

The manse, offices, and garden wall were built in the year 1 808^ 
soon after the admission of the present incumbent* Having been 
built by contract, and no person appointed to superintend the 
work while in progress, the walls of the manse were found to ad- 
mit damp during the winter season; they have lately undergone 
a repair ; but the evil has not been remedied. The minister is att« 
thorized by the heritors to give any partial repair that may be oc- 
casionally require4 for the manse, offices, and churches. 

The glebe is about fourteen acres in extent By draining and 
clearing away brushwood, nearly the whole is rendered arable* 
The soil is partly mossy and partly sandy. During the stonne of 
winter, it is liable to be flooded by the high tides, and the over- 
flowing of the river, which forms the southern boundary. By these 
inundations, the parts that had been under green crops (potatoes 
or turnips) the preceding season are much injured. To make the 
stipend L.150, with L.^ 6s. 8d. Sterling for communion elements, 
the minister draws 1^18, 6s. lOd. Sterling from Exchequer. The 
crown is patron, and the incumbents who have officiated in the pa* 
rish since its disjunction from North Knapdale, have been, 1. Mr 
Patrick Pollock ; 2. Mr Hugh Campbell ; a Mr Daniel Hynd- 
man ; 4. Mr Duncan Rankin, who was admitted on the 26th No- 
vember 1806; 5. Mr Alexander Mackenzie, the present ineuiii* 
bent. 

Education. — There are 6ve permanent schools in the parish, 
four of which are parochial, and one on the General Assembly's 
Scheme. Besides these, there are occasionally, 4uring the winter 



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SOUTH KNAPDALE. *273 

season, some side schools taught by young men who are both paid 
and maintained by the parents of such children as may attend 
them. At present, there are about 300 attending the different 
3chools. The branches taught are, English and Gaelic, reading, 
writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping. At two of the schools, 
Latin, geography, and navigation are taught. At all the schools 
the Scriptures are daily read, and the children are taught to trans- 
late portions of them from Gaelic to English, and vice ver^a. 
They are also taught the Shorter Catechism. 

As the maximum salary is allowed and divided among the four 
parochial teachers, the heritors do not consider themselves bound 
to provide either dwelling-house or school-house for any of them. 
Two of the teachers have no accommodation whatever. Of the 
other two, one has a school-house ; and for his dwelling-house 
and cow's grass, and small patch of ground which yields him po- 
tatoes and meal for his family, and fodder for his cow, he pays a 
moderate rent. Tlie other has a school*house ; but the dwelling- 
house he occupies he was obliged to build at his own expense. 

The teacher employed by the General Assembly's Committee 
has a good dwelling-house, school- house, croft, and cow's grass, 
barn and byre provided for him by Mrs Campbell of Ormsary,— 
a lady who pays the greatest attention to the temporal and spiri- 
tual wants of the poor. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of poor on the 
roll is about 20. This is exclusive of those residing in the district 
of the parish annexed quoad sacra to Lochgilphead. The annual 
amount of contributions for their relief is from L.20 to L.25 
Sterling, arising from collections in the church, and fines for de- 
linquencies. This sum, minus salaries for session, presbytery, and 
synod clerks, is divided among the poor twice a year. One dis- 
tribution is made annually after the communion, and the other 
about the beginning of January. The funeral expenses of the 
poor are paid out of this fund ; occasional aid is afforded to such as 
from bad health or any otiier misfortune may stand in need of re- 
lief, though they are not on the roll. From the failure of the po- 
tato crop in 1837, and scarcity of 1839, the heritors voluntarily 
contributed in each of these years L.25 for the relief of the poor. 

/iofl(/*.— The road from Daill, the north-eastern extremity of 
the parish, to Barnelian, on the south, is excellent, and always 
kept in the best possible state of repair. This road for the distance 
of ten or twelve miles is called the Lliabh Gaoil road, from its 

AROYLE. S 



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•274 AHGYLKSHIRE. 

leading along th^ eastern base of the range of hills \?hich occupies 
the space between LochBne and Lochcaolisport, and is known by 
the name of the forest, or hill of Lliabh Gaoil. Before the open- 
ing of this road, the district of Kintyre was quite insulated from 
the rest of Argyleshire. The only path by which any communi- 
cation between the two places could be maintained, was almost 
quite impassable. It ran along hills and dales, which were inter* 
sected by water courses without any bridges. In summer, these 
waters were fordable, but in winter the attempt to cross them was 
both difficult and dangerous. 

The Lliabh Gaoil road, which was so useful before the intro- 
duction of steam, and conferred such a boon on the country ge- 
nerally, and on Kintyre particularly, was obtained through the in- 
strumentality of Sheriff Campbell, one of the ancestors of the 
present family of Stonefield. The line was surveyed by an Eng- 
lish engineer. It is said that he attempted to travel over the 
ground ; but the rocks were so precipitous, the ferns so gigantic, 
the Englishman so unwieldy, and so unaccustomed to travel such 
rough grounds, that, after much tumbling and scrambling, he was 
obliged to betake himself to his boat, and finish his survey by row- 
ing along the shore. On arriving at Barmore House, the resi- 
dence of Sheriff Campbell, he remarked to the Sheriff, that it 
was quite a hopeless thing to attempt opening a road along the 
projected line, that it was au undertaking fit for the Empress Ca- 
therine of Russia, and not fit for private individuals. The Sheriff 
ordered his clerk or treasurer to pay the English surveyor for his 
trouble, and, with that determination and resolution which so 
much characterized that gentleman, the Sheriff set about the 
mighty task of opening the Lliabh Gaoil road, and persevered till 
it was finished. It is one of the best lined roads in the county; 
and, whether for the purpose of pleasure or of utility, it is one of 
the most interesting roads imaginable. Since the introduction of 
steam, it is now much less frequented than formerly ; but still, it is 
extremely serviceable, as forming the only inland channel of com- 
munication between the peninsula of Kintyre and the other parts 
of Argyleshire. 

Market' TowiL — There are no market-towns in the parish. At 
Ardrissaig, the eastern entrance of the Crinan Canal, there is a 
village of considerable size. The village of Tarbert is partly si- 
tuated within the parish* In this village, the inhabitants of the 
south end of the parish can be supplied with such articles as they 



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SOUTH KNAPDALE. 275 

require to purchase. Here, also, they find a ready market for 
any thing they have to dispose of, partly to supply the wants of 
the villagers, and partly for exportation to Glasgow. It is to 
Lochgilphead, a large village in the parish of Kilmichael Glassary, 
that the inhabitants of the north end of the parish repair for dis- 
posing of fowls, eggs, butter, &Cm and for purchasing tea, sugar, 
dye stuffs, &c. 

Means of Communication. — In summer, no less than three 
steam-vessels arrive and depart daily to and from Glasgow and 
the intermediate ports on the Clyde, During winter, there is a 
daily arrival and departure of at least one steamer. The com* 
munication with Oban, Fort- William, and Inverness, as well as 
Tobermory, Strontian, and the Isle of Skye; also from West 
Lochtarbert to Jura and Islay, is regular, cheap, and convenient. 

To and from Lochgilphead, the post-town nearest to the north 
and west districts of the parish, the post arrives and departs daily 
to and from Inverary. Shortly after the arrival of the mail from 
Inverary at Lochgilphead, it was, till lately, despatched by 
land to Tarbert, the post-town most convenient for the in- 
habitants of the south end of the parish. NoMf, the mail is 
forwarded by steam from Ardrissaig to Tarbert, and vice versa. 
Thus, a link is struck out of the chain of communication by land, 
— a circumstance which occasions much inconvenience to many in ' 
the parish, not only to those near the line of road from Ardrissaig 
to Tarbert, but also to all residing at the western side of the pa- 
rish, nor is there any saving to the revenue. It is expected, how- 
ever, that, upon a representation being made to the proper quar- 
ter, this anomaly will be remedied, and that the mail will be for- 
warded as formerly by land, between the offices of Tarbert and 
Lochgilphead, and vice versa. 

Inns. — On the western side of this parish, along Lochcaolisport, 
there is but one public-house, which is all that is necessary. On 
the eastern side, at Ardrissaig, and that part of the mission of 
Tarbert connected with this parish, the number is much greater. 

Fuel — The fuel chieBy used is peat. On the eastern side of 
the parish, coals are very generally used. They are procured 
from Glasgow and Ardrossan, and the general price is about 14s. 
per ton. 

Savings Bank. — By the exertions of Mr Campb^M of Achin- 
darroch. Sir John P. Orde of Kilmory, and other gentlemen 
connected with the district, a Savings bank was established at 



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276 AROVLESHIBE. 

Lochgilphead in August last, for the benefit of that village and 
country adjacent Deposits to the amount of several hundred 
pounds have already been made, but it is much to be regretted 
that those for whom the bank was intended, should be so tardy b 
availing themselves of its provisions and advantages. 

Miscellaneous Observations, 
Since 1794, the date of the last Statistical Account, the value 
of lands has increased very much in this parish, owing principally 
to the high price that is obtained for black^cattle, sheep, and wool. 
The rental in 1972, was L.100d Sterling ; in 1796, it was L.2d:)5 
Sterling; in 1840, it was considerably above 1*4000 Sterling. 
The lands have been much improved during that period by drain- 
ing, enclosing and clearing away brushwood ; but a great deal of 
land still remains in a state of nature, which is capable of great 
improvement, and on which capital might be profitably laid out. 

The non-residence of heritors is a great bar to the improve- 
ment of this parish ; of eleven there are at present only three re- 
sident heritors. 

It would be a great improvement, and an incalculable advantage 
to the people, to have the church at Inverneill removed to Ardris- 
saig, and that section of the parish erected into a separate parish, 
with a suitable endowment ; or, if this cannot be speedily ob- 
tained, to have it erected into a mission station, and placed 
under the superintendence of an ordained missionary. The 
erection of the district of Knap, and the portion of the parish 
of North Knapdale thereunto contiguous, into a parish, with 
the suitable machinery, would also be a most desirable object. It 
is much to be regretted that the lower orders enjoy the comforts 
of life in so scanty a measure. Pauperism is daily increasing. 
This may be ascribed in a great degree to early and impnideat 
marriages. Such marriages are greatly encouraged by the prac- 
tice of giving a house, and the planting of a couple of barrels of 
potatoes, free of any pecuniary rent, but exacting services from 
the cottar, every day, and at any season of the year when it mmj 
be required. The system of subsetting land is not yet discou- 
iinued. 

Drawn up 1810. « 



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PARISH OF TOROSAY. 

PRESBYTERY OF MULL, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. DUNCAN CLERK, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The derivation of Torosay, or, as it is sometimes writ- 
ten, Torasay, cannot be given with any certainty. Perhaps it is 
compounded of these three Gaelic words Tor^ agus^ (contracted a*8y) 
and a. Tor signifies a hill or mountain of a conical form^ Jfftu 
or a*s is the copulative conjunction, and a is an obsolete word sig- 
nifying water.* Torosay in this view may signify a district diver^ 
si^d with kills of a conical form^ and lakeSf either of fresh or salt 
water. This diversification is certainly a characteristic feature of 
the parish at large, for the hills, which are numerous, almost all 
acuminate at different elevations to as many peaks; and, besides 
the picturesque indentation of the country by several arms of the 
sea, it is studded with many fresh water lakes, forming the sources 
of some considerable streams. 

Extent and Boundaries.'^The length of the parish from south- 
east to north-west^ is 20 miles ; and its breadth from north-east 
to south-west, is 12 miles. It contains aboiit 160 square miles^ of 
dry land. 

It is bounded on the north, on the east, and on the south, by 
the Sound of Mull ; on the west, by the parish of Kilfinichen ; and 
on the north-west, by the parish of Kilninian. 

Topographical Appearances. — It is of an oblong figure, having 
its sides in some places projecting into headlands of various shapes, 
some rounded, some acutely angular, and in other places as irre- 
gularly indented. 

A chain of peaked mountains runs along its whole length, hav- 
ing a common base, with the exception of Benmore, {the great 
mountain^) and Bentealluidh, {Prospect mountain,) which rise se- 
verally from very low ground, and are of considerable height Ben. 
more, the highest mountain in the island, is about 3000 feet above 

* See the Higblmid Soc-7efy*s Gaelic Dictionary, p. ?. 

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278 ARGVLESHIUE. 

the level of the sea, and commands an e&tensive view of the most 
of the Hebridean islands. Bentealluidh is about 2800 feet high. 
This mountain, with its perfectly conical shape, elevating itself to 
such a height from nearly the level of the sea, and in a pass which 
forms so singular an interruption of the chain of mountains in the 
same line, presents itself as a most magnificent object to voyagers 
making the Sound of Mull from the north. On nearing it, the 
idea of grandeur in the mind of the beholder is agreeably blended 
with that of beauty, from its verdant appearance even to the summit, 
where none of that excoriation of surface by avalanches is seen, 
which so often inflict deforming gashes in the sides of mountains 
not nearly so high. 

Besides this chain, there are several others running nearly paral- 
lel to each other, in a transverse direction. These also have bases 
in common, with the exception of Benmaigh, which is isolated. This 
is a splendid mountain at the head of Lochbuy. It is much about 
the same height as Beptealluidh. Its name is evidently derived 
from Ben, a mountain^ and Magh, a plain. There is an extensive 
plain at its base, giving the distinctive name of Magh to the farm 
on which Lochbuy House is built. Hence Benmhaigh, tke moun' 
tain of tke plain. 

The interior of the parish is so hilly as to contain very little flat 
ground ; but, though the bases of the mountains approximate the 
sea, still, owing to the great length of sea coast, there is a good 
deal of low-lying land in the parish. 

There are three valleys, bearing the names of Glenmore, Glea- 
forsa, and Glencainail. The first derives its appellation from its 
length, which is about ten miles. The mountains on either side 
seem, in general, to dispute every inch of its breadth, so that it is 
only a long pass winding its tortuous way, where best it can, in the 
narrow defile left by the opposing mountains as neutral ground. 
The bottom of the valley, where it is highest, is about 300 feet 
above the level of the sea. Its sides have an acclivity ranging 
from 40 degrees to nearly the zenith point. Though the princi- 
pal outlet for the inhabitants of the populous parish of Kilfinichen 
to other parts of the country was through this glen, yet, till within 
these few years back, there was no road in it. Through the pub- 
lie spirit of the proprietors of the island, aided by the rest of this 
county, this great want is now supplied, there being a tolerably 
good road formed to join the principal line between Tobermory 
and the Jerry of Auchenacraig. This new road will prove of the 



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TOROSAY. 279 

Utmost benefit to the inhabitants of Kilfinichen, as it facilitates 
their communication not only with the parish of Torosay, wherein 
the principal fairs of the island are held, but also with the main- 
land by the above-mentioned ferry. There is a prospect of this 
line being soon carried forward through Ross to the Sound of lona. 
When it is finished, it is more than probable that many of those who 
come from a distance to visit the interesting ruins of lona, will 
prefer taking this route to encountering the risk of sea sickness, 
from the heavy swell of the Atlantic on the west side of Mull. 
The voyage is practicable by steamers only from the beginning of 
June to the autumnal equinox, whereas, by going through Glen- 
more, the tourist's curiosity could be gratified at any season of the 
yean 

Glenforsa is about five miles long, and three-quarters of a mile 
broad. The average height of the bottom of the valley is about 
160 feet above the level of the sea. Its direction is north-east 
and south-west. The hills which form its sides rise with an accli- 
vity of about 30 degrees, and are covered with grass, bent, and 
heath. It commences on the coast of Mull, near Salen, and ter- 
minates in Glenmore, at the base of Bentealluidh. 

Glencainail, situated three miles farther west, runs parallel to 
it, and is of the same breadth ; but it is about two miles shorter. 
Its south-eastern side is formed by the hill which separates it from 
Glenforsa. Its north-western side is a part of Benmore, whove 
base, taking a sweeping curve to the south-east, terminates^ it. 
The character of the interior part of it is similar to that of Glen- 
forsa ; but the lower part of it embosoms a fresh-water lake of con- 
siderable extent. 

On the south side of Lochbuy, at the extremity of Laggan 
Point, there is a spacious cave, evidently an excavation in the rock 
by the action of the Atlantic waves. It is 300 feet in length. Its 
breadth, for the first hundred feet from its mouth, is 20, and its 
height 40 feet. It widens then abruptly to 45, and its height be- 
comes 1*20 feet. These dimensions it retains to its termination. 
At the expansion point, there is a narrow and difficult descent to 
another cave, branching off, in the direction of the sea, at an anglo 
of 30 degrees. It is 150 feet in length, 12 in breadth, and 24 in 
height Its termination is nearly parallel to the entrance of the 
main cave. At its extreme point, there is every appearance of its 
having had a separate entrance, which was shut up by the detritus 
of the rock that contains it. The whole cavity is called Odin's 



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280 



AHOYLESHIBB. 



cave, — a name given to it probably by the Dftiies when they bad 
possession of the Hebrides. Its spaciousness might lead them sn- 
perstitiously to regard it as one of the abodes of their principal 
deitv. The floor of the inner cave is covered with nibbish. in 
which the bones of terrestrial animals abound. They bear no 
marksy however, of having been gnawed, so that it is probable the 
animals to which they belonged, particularly as they are of exist- 
ing and indigenous genera, were devoured by outlaws or banditti 
living in the cave. 

Meteorology. — The climate in this parish, like that of the rest 
of the island, is mild in the habitable parts of it, which are chiefly 
situated on the coast The summits of the mountains, however, 
owing to their great altitude^ are seldom free of snow, from the 
beginning of November till the middle of ApriK The mean tem- 
perature is 47° of Fahrenheit. The mean pressure of the atmo- 
sphere is 29.75 inches. The prevailing winds are the south-west, 
the west, and the north-west ; and very often, during a hard ga)e, 
it blows successively from all these points in the order above-staled. 
Rainy weather may be prognosticated, with a good deal of cer- 
tainty, when the tops of the mountains become enveloped with 
thick clouds in motion. On the other hand, fair weather may be 
expected, when thin and broken fleeces of white, mist appear 
slowly ascending from the sides of the mountains, and when the 
summits are but partially covered. 

Where so many high mountains intercept the vapour wafted by 
the prevailing wind from the face of the ocean, a considerable 
quantity of rain, as might be expected, falls, but not more than 
the nature of the soil requires. 

Monthly state of the rain-gago, at Achnacroish, near the centre 
of the parish, for 1835, 1836, and 1837. 



1B35. 



January, 


6.1 Inches. 


Janutry* 


February, . 


9.7 


February, 


March, 


6.5 


March, 


AprU, 


78 


April, 


May, 


10. 


•VJay, 


June, 


1.2 


June, 


July, 


8.1 


July, 


August, . 


7. 


August, 


September, . 


123 


September, 


Oetober, 


9.4 


October, 


NoTember, . 


6.9 


November, 


December, . 


6.2 





1837. 



18;3G. 

9.1 Inches. 

11.2 

9.2 

6w7 

A 

9.T 
7.8 
9.6 

ai 

10.9 
11.9 

90.7 iooi 67. 

In winter, strong gales and storms are often preceded, twenty- 



.Fanuary, 


5^IdcIm 


February, . 


4JB 


March, 


2.6 


April, 


a4 


May, 


2L9 


June, 


4.r 


July, 


2L4 


August, 


4A 




AA 


October, . 


11.9 


November, . 


12.1 


Deeemb^, • 


7.5 



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TOROSAY. 281 

four hours before they come on, by a brilliant appearance of au- 
rora borealis in the northern regions of the heavens. The cli- 
mate seems not lo l)e rendered unhealthy by the great quantity 
of rain which falls ; for, as the soil, in general, is very porous^ 
little of it remains in a stagnant state. There is no particular 
distemper prevalent in the parish. Cases of typhus fever occa- 
sionally occur ; but, in general, tliey can be traced to infection 
imported from the low country. 

Hydroffraphy.^^Besides being washed on two sides of it by the 
Sound of Mull, the parish is indented by several lochs and bays. 
These are, Loehbuy, Lochspelve, Lochdon, the Bay of Diiart, 
Craigouire Bay, MacAlisler's Bay, and Corinahenchar Bay. 
Loehbuy is three miles loi:\g and two broad ; Lochspelve is six 
miles in length and one and a-half in breadth ; Lochdon is four 
miles long. At its mouth, near the ferry of Auchenacraig, it is 
half a mile in breadth, but it contracts itself immediately to a few 
yards, and juts itself, in this state, windingly to its termination. 
MacAlister^s Bay is about two miles broad. The other three 
bays are each about a mile in breadth. There are many fresh 
water lakes; ihe principal are, Lochstranamban, near Loehbuy 
House; Lochba, near Jarviesfield House ; and the chain of lakes 
near the line of road through Glenmore. Lochstranamban is 6ve 
miles in circumference : Lochba is seven ; but each of the three 
in the chain of lakes is of much smaller extent. The steepness 
of the banks of Lochstranamban, producing much acuteness in 
the angles of incidence, causes every object upon them to be re- 
flected ; and their height, excluding much of the atmospheric 
glare, favours the distinctness of the vision, so that nearly equal 
in vividness to the grandeur of the surrounding scenery, is the 
picture of it reflected from the bosom of the lake when it is un- 
disturbed by the breeze. 

The rivers are, the Lussa, the Forsa, and the Ba. The Lussa 
issues from the chain of lakes already noticed. For the first two 
miles, it runs in a north-easterly direction, afterwards it bends to- 
wards the south-east, and, after a rapid course of six miles, it falls 
into the sea at the east end of LochspeWe, where it is thirty yards 
broad. The Forsa, which is four miles in length, takes its rise 
at the base of Bentealluidh, and, after receiving all the rain which 
falls in Glenibrsa, it discharges itself in the Sound of Mull, at 
Pennygown, where it is twenty-two yards in breadth. The Ba 
issues from Lochba, and, after a course of two miles, it falls into 



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2ft2 ARGYLB8H1RE. 

an arm of the sea called Lochnaoceal, on the west side of Mull. 
It discharges as much water as the Forsa. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The general direction of the strata 
of rocks is north-west to south-east. Their dip, for the most 
part, is 10^ north. In many places, the strata are deranged by 
▼eins or dikes, which have a dip of 45° north. The rocks are prin- 
cipally trap, sandstone, and a coarse kind of limestone. These 
all enter into the composition of the hills, and they are also to be 
met with in plains of any extent. Granite is found, but it occurs 
only in blocks near the shore. Whence these have been trans* 
ported, and by what agency, are subjects, regarding which it would 
be difficult to form a conjecture. 

The fossil organic remains which are found, are of the testaceous 
order. They occur in limestone. The minerals found in the 
rocks are, rock-crystal, calospar, and fluor-spar. The alluvial de- 
posits are rolled blocks mixed with gravel, sand, clay, and peat. 

The various soils, in low situations, seem to have been trans- 
ported from the neighbouring hills. There appears to have been 
no affinity in any of the soils, in their deposition, for any particular 
kind of rock as a substratum ; for, whether they be gravelly, sandy, 
clayey, or loamy, they located themselves on all the kinds of rock 
indiscriminately. Though there is a considerable quantity of 
loamy soil throughout the parish, gravelly soil and peat abound 
most In alluvial depositions of loam and peat in other parts of 
the country, the loamy soil is deposited, in general, near the 
shore ; and behind it, with a higher elevation, is found the peat ; 
but in this parish, frequent instances of a deviation from this order 
occur. The loamy soil oft^n appears at a distance from the sea, 
and on an elevated bed ; whereas the peat often forms the mar- 
gin of the sea, being separated from it only by a narrow dike of 
trap or coarse limestone. 

Zoology* — Though red deer are not so plentiful in the parish 
as they were fifty years ago, still there is a good number of them. 
As an end has been put to deer stalking, and as all the proprietors 
have shown a desire of late to prevent their extermination, they 
are at present rapidly on the increase. During the rutting season, 
which is about the middle of September, the hart lays aside his 
native shyness, and assumes a fierceness which renders it unsafe to 
approach him. A few years ago a young man, in going through a 
copse wood on the Lochbuy estate, was met by a hart, which chased 
him. Fortunately a strong tree or standard was near him which 



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T0R08AY. 283 

be climbed; but for a whole hoar he was detained iu this 
unpleasant situation, the animal laying siege to bim at the root of 
the tree, and defying all the efforts of a coiley dog to drive him 
away, till he was inclined himself to walk off. The deer in Mull 
are not so large as those to be met with on the mainland. Their 
insular situation preventing the crossing of the breed, is suppos- 
ed to be the cause of their degeneracy. 

When the former Statistical Account was drawn up there were 
foxes in the parish, but now there is not one, neither is there any 
other kind of ground vermin. So late as fifty years ago, there 
were no moles in the island. They first made their appearance 
much about that time in the parish of Kilninian, having been im- 
ported into it from Morven, by a vessel that discharged an earth- 
en ballast near Tobermory. They are now spread over the 
whole island. 

It is rather singular that there should be no partridges in this 
or in any other of the parishes of the island, though they are nu- 
merous enough in Morven, which, at the narrowest part of the 
Sound, is not distant more than a mile and a-half from Mull. 

Ichthyology. — The sound of Mull, with its lochs and bays, 
abounds, at all seasons, in cod, ling, whiting, plaice, Bounders, 
skate, and lythe ; and, periodically, in herring, mackerel, and gur- 
net There are native trouts, of a small size, in all the fresh wa- 
ter lakes. In all the rivers, salmon grilse and sea trout abound. 
They come up to spawn in October, and return to the sea in the 
end of November. When rivers have their sources in accessible 
lakes, the fish remain in these lakes till the end of spring, they 
then revisit the sea, and about midsummer they return in good 
condition to the fresh water again. In Lochspelve there are oys- 
ter and muscle banks. My<B truncatm abound in Duart and 
Craignuire bays, where also the Mya arenaria devastans is to be 
met with. This shell fish is as large as an ordinary sized oyster, 
quite circular, and not so deep, in proportion to its diameter, as 
the common cockle. It is smooth and covered over with a hard 
varnish of a brownish colour ; hence its Gaelic name, donnag. 
Like the hose or razor-fish, it is only to be found at very low wa- 
ter. Though one would be apt to consider it not very digestible, 
it is eaten with relish by the natives. In all parts of the coast 
there is abundance of welks, {Turbines littorei^) which in some 
places are found lying in heaps. There is little or no use made 
of them, except in seasons of great scarcity. 



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284 AUGYLESHIRK. 

Botany. — The greater part of the parish must at one time have 
been under wood, as in all the peat bogs, large trunks and bran- 
ches of trees occur. There is a good deal of copse still in exis- 
tence, consisting of oak, ash, mountain ash, holly, hazel, and 
birch. 

The rarer plants that are found in the parish, according to N!r 
Middleton at Achnacroish, who is considered a good botanist, are 
the f4)llowing 7 

Osmunda regfllb Solanum Dulcamara Suzifiraga graaulau 

Adoza moacbatellina Arenariamaritima Soldanella alpina 

Aster var. Selenum palostre Stellaria 3 Tar. 

Airena ntr. Giaux maritima Trientalia Euro|MM 

BrizaTar. Nympbat var. Lytbruro salicaria 

TXf^uMB alba Pyrola uniflora Cardamine pratensis 

Draba aiaodei .,« ■..>■■■.. rotundirolia 

Erica alba Sazifraga birtuta 

II. — Civil History. 

Family of Madean.^^lt is said that, about the middle of the four- 
teenth century, two young men of the name of Maclean, who were 
brothers, came from Ireland on a visit to the Lord of the Isles, whose 
principal residence was at Aros, in the neighbouring parish of KiU 
oinian. In process of time, they became his sons-in-law, and obtain- 
ed from him, besides other possessions, all the lands in the parish of 
Torosay, with the exception of that part of it that is adjacent to 
Lochbuy, a territory which belonged to a native chief of the name of 
Macfadyean. While one of the brothers 6xed his residence at 
Duart, the other obtained permission from Macfadyean to build a 
fortalice or keep at the head of Lochbuy, on a rock close to the 
sea. Availing himself of the advantage which this position gave 
him, he was soon able to wrest ail his lands from Macfadyean and 
to add them to his own. In a succeeding age, the families sprung 
from the two brothers, regardless of their consanguinity, were 
very often engaged in mutual feuds ; but neither of them obtain- 
ed any considerable advantage over the other, till it happened that 
a chief of Lochbuy died, leaving his estates to his only son, at the 
time an infant. . Maclean of Duart, judging this to be a favourable 
opportunity for anutoing the lands of Lochbuy to his own, invad* 
ed the territory of his young kinsman, and accomplished bis object, 
but was disappointed of seizing his person, he liaving been conveyed 
in safety to Ireland, and placed under the protection of his maternal 
uncle, the £arl of Antrim. After attaining to manhood, he re- 
turned, attended by a few resolute followers, with the view of re- 
covering his paternal possessions* Landing near Lochbuy, Mur^ 



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TOR08AY. 285 

ragh Gear, for so was he designated from bis low stature, set out 
alone to reconnoitre. Oberving a woman engaged in milking cows 
not far from the keep, he went to her, and requested a little milk 
to quench his thirst In the meantime, the cow that was in the 
act of being milked, started, which made the woman utter an eK- 
clamation, in which she made use of the name MurragL Maclaine 
— for such is the onhography of the name adopted by this branch 
— asked her re.ison for uttering that name. She told him that 
she had been nurse to the young heir of Lochbuy, and that such 
was her affection for him, that she at times, without being aware 
of it, repeated his name. Would you know him yet, were you to 
see him? asked Murragh Gear. Her reply was, that, from a mark 
on his breast, she would have no difficulty in recognizing him* 
He bared the mark, when she embraced him with all the affection 
of a mother. After telling her of his design upon the keep, she 
recommended to him to place his men in ambuscade near it, how 
soon the shades of night would conceal their approach, at the same 
time to send one of his followers to the inclosure where the calves 
were kept, and to drive them to their dams. When the low- 
ing of the cattle — which in these circumstances usually takes 
place — should be heard in the keep, she having the charge of them, 
would cause her husband, who was door-keeper, to open the gate, 
and would call some of the guard to her assistance; then is 
your time, says she, to rush in and to put the remainder to the 
sword. But how, asked Maclaine, can I do this consistently with 
the preservation of my foster father? As to that, replied bis nurse, 
" Leig an tearbuU leis a cbraicionn" — (let the tail go with the 
hide.) The stratagem succeeded, and Murragh Gear soon reeo* 
vered, along with the fort, his estates, which have ever since con- 
tinued in the family. The present representative is Murdoch 
Maclaine, Esq. who is the principal heritor of the parbb* The 
representative of the Macleans of Duart is Lieutenant«General 
Sir Fitzroy Grafton Maclean of Morvaren, Bart. It is not known 
which of the founders of these two families was the elder brother, 
consequently the representatives of both always claimed the dis* 
tinction of being regarded exclusively as the bead of the whole 
clan. 

The two brothers were sons of an Irish chief, called Gillean- 
na-Tuaidh, from his ordinary weapon a battle-axe, which to this 
day, his posterity bear as their crest, betwixt a laurel and a cypress 
branch, with the motto, *^ vincere aut mori*" Gilleau-na^Tuadh 



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266 AUOYLBSHIRE. 

was descended from Aonghus King of Ireland, who ascended the 
throne in the consulship of Cicero and Caius Antonius. 

Mr John Beaton, the last of the Highland Senachies, and a 
man profoundly skilled in Irish antiquities, gives a catalogue of 
forty-seven names between Gillean-na-Tuaidh and King Aon- 
ghus, but as these names abound in consonants, I will not, by re* 
cording them here, subject them to the risk of being mispro- 
nounced. 

Other Landed Proprietors^ — The estates of the chief of Duart 
were long ago forfeited to the crown, and given to the noble fami- 
ly of Argyle, as a reward of services performed by them. The 
present Duke sold the lands of Torosay proper to the late Colo- 
nel Macquarie of Ulva, who, in his turn, disposed of them to the 
present proprietor. Colonel Campbell of Possil and Torosay, who 
ranks as the second heritor. The remaining heritors in the order 
of their valued rent are, Lrfichlan Macquarie, Esq. of Glenforsa ; 
His Grrace George William Campbell, Duke of Argyle; and 
Duncan M^Intyre, Esq. of Burg. 

Parochial Registers. — These do not go far back. The 6rst 
entry in the register of baptisms was in the year 1 793, and the 
first in the register of marriages in 1807. They are not of course 
voluminous ; but since their commencement, they have been very 
regularly kept 

Antiquities* — On the promontory of Duart, the most easterly 
point of the island, stands in majestic ruin its ivy mantled castle. 
— It consists of a strong tower at the north end of it, with a long 
projection of buildings overhanging a precipitous rock, which ren- 
ders it inaccessible on the side next the sea. At the end of this 
projection, and at right angles with it, another building forms the 
south side of the castle, and where this terminates, a high wall 
connects it on the west side with the tower, inclosing a large square 
in the centre. The entrance was from the west, through a pos- 
tern gate, with portcullis, and defended by a barbican. The 
tower is evidently much more ancient than the rest of the build- 
ing. It corresponds in character with the architecture of the 
thirteenth century. Its walls on two sides are 1 4 feet thick, and 
on the other sides 10 feet. The stair, which is still entire, winds 
up through the wall which separates it from the centre square. In 
this wall, along the course of the stair, are crenells opening upon 
the square. The tower consisted of two tiers of apartments, sup- 
ported by beams resting on corbels. The windows are deep re- 



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TOROSAY. 2S7 

cesses, forming acute angles towards the entrance of the light, and 
on either side of each window is a long flat stone or flag, raised by 
rubble work to the height of a chair or sofa, the purposes of which, 
it is probable, it was intended to serve. The interior of the tower 
is 44 by 22 feet The rest of the building is comparatively of a 
modern date. On the lintel of one of the doors is engraved the 
crest of the Macleans, and the year 1663. The whole building 
on the exterior measures 75 by 72 feet. This castle was the 
residence of the heroine in Miss Baillie's drama of the Family 
Legend. 

As mentioned in a preceding part of ^this Account, there is a 
tower or keep at the head of Lochbuy. Though bearing marks, 
in the lower part of the building, of nearly as high antiquity as 
the tower at Duart, it is in a more perfect state of preservation, 
owing to the attention that had been bestowed in keeping the 
roof always entire. It is a square tower built upon a low rock 
near the sea. This circumstance deprives it of much of the pro* 
minency and bold aspect of Duart Castle, though, estimating from 
the foundation of each, it is much higher. It has three tiers of 
apartments, of which the two lower ones are arched. On the east 
or land side is the gateway, near which a fosse, drawn in the form 
of the segment of a circle, having its centre in the tower, can still 
be traced. In the middle of the ground flat, a spring of excellent 
water issues from the solid rock. A bason four feet deep was ex- 
cavated for it, which it never overflows, but which it takes no time, 
after being emptied, to replenish. About a century ago, the keep 
was discontinued as the family residence. 

At Killean and at Laggan, there are ruins of two small chapels 
built before the Reformation. In the burying-grounds adjacent 
to them, are a few richly-carved tombstones, taken, it is supposed, 
from lona. 

Near the small village of Salen are the ruins of a cell which 
belonged to the monastery of lona. A rivulet which runs past 
it, is called the Preacher^s Burn, Ald^an-isearmaiiiche ; and tradi- 
tion affirms, that it got this name from the circumstance of St Co- 
lumba's coming there occasionally to preach. It is said that the 
want of good water alone prevented his settling there. The vil- 
lage is called SaleU'dubh-Challum chille^ ue, Malcolm of the cell's 
black bay. 

There have been, within the last ten years, stone coffins fouud 
in different parts of the parish, where excavations have been made 



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^dd AIIUYLESUIRE. 

fdr buildiog or for road-oiakitig. Some of them cootaiiied a few 
boneS} some ashes, and some a small quantity of black mould. 

Three years ago, some road-makers found, at the depth of a 
foot under the surface, an old leathern purse containing three 
silver coins. One of them is a Spanish dollar. On one side of 
it is this inscription, Phil. IIIL D. G. Hisp. et Indiar. Rex, 
1647. On the reverse side, A. R. C. * * * Dux. Burg. 
Domitor. Anotlier is a shilling of Queen Elizabeth, and its in* 
scription is, £iizab. D. G. Aog. Fr. et Hib. R. It has on the 
reverse side, Deus est mens adjutor, 1595. Both of these 
coins are much worn. The third, which is about the size of a 
franc, is a coin of Charles IL, as entire as when it came out of 
the mint. 

Modern Buildittgs. — Since the last Statistical Account was 
written, the father of the present Laird of Lochbuy built a large, 
commodious, and handsome house, at the head of Lochbuy, about 
200 yards from the tower. It commands a fine view of the sce- 
nery on both sides of the loch, and also of the island of Colonsaj 
in the Atlantic, bearing from it south by west, and distant four- 
teen miles. 

Colonel Campbell of Fossil has, within these few years, made 
a considerable addition to Achnacroish House. He has also built 
a fine set of offices. The stone used is blue gneisbache, found on 
the spot; but, owing to its extreme hardness, the cutting of it was 
attended with more expense than ashlar work would have cost 

A few years ago, there was a large corn-mill erected on the es- 
tate of Torosay. It has two pair of millstones. From the strength 
of the machinery, and the abundant supply of water, it might ma- 
nufacture all the grain grown in the island. But though, in the 
meantime, it is more than adequate to the district thirled to it, 
there is every probability that, owing to the progress which hus- 
bandry is making in the district, there will be soon much more 
corn to grind than at present. 

1 1 L — PoPOUlTl ON. 

The population of this parish in 1755, was 1012; iu 1790 it 
was 1733; at present it is ld89. 

Of the five heritors, only two are at present resident in the 
parish. 

Lcangtiagt. — The language spoken in the parish is Gaelic. 
Though English is beginning to be pretty generally understood, 
the natives seldom use it, when conversing witdh one another. They 



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TOROSAY. 289 

reserve any knowledge they may haye of it, till tbey have occasioa 
to address those who do not understand Gaelic. So far, there- 
fore, as they are concerned, the language has neither gained nor 
lost ground, for the last forty years. How long It may remain in 
this stationary condition is uncertain, especially as there are seve- 
ral iamilies from the lowlands of late settled in the parish. These, 
having no inducement to study the Gaelic, as they find themselves 
generally imderstood in English, may, through time, habituate the 
natives to speak this language, even among themselves. At school, 
children are taught to read in both languages. Though the teach- 
ing of them thus to read Gaelic would seem' to tend to its perma- 
nency, the contrary effect, in all probability, will ensue. By being 
able to compare both versions of the Scriptures, they daily add to 
their vocabulary of English words, so that the Gaelic in this man- 
ner forms to them a key for the acquisition of the English. So 
long as the native Highlanders understand Gaelic better than 
English, religious instruction must be communicated to them in 
that language, even if this circumstance should have the effect of 
postponing the day when English shall be the universal language 
of the empire. For, however desirable that event may be, it would 
be making too great a sacrifice to attempt to expedite It by suffer* 
ing, in the meantime, even one soul to perish for lack of that 
knowledge which maketh wise unto salvation. 

The people are remarkably quick in apprehension ; and a great 
improvement has lately taken place in their moral and religious cha- 
racter. An illegitimate birth is now a matter of rare occurrence, and, 
when it does take place, it is rather remarkable, that, for the last 
eight years, one or other of the parties happens to be a stranger. 
Poaching and smuggling have entirely ceased. 

IV. — Industry. 
Affriculture.-^The number of acres standard imperial measure 
which are in tillage may be computed at about 7500. To 
the cultivated land of the parish there might, with a profitable ap- 
plication of capital, be added 5000 acres more ; but, instead of 
keeping this addition to the cultivated land in occasional tillage, it 
would be* more profitable to allow it to lie out in permanent pas- 
ture. In such a climate at this, and having but an/inferior soil to 
work upon, cropping must be but a secondary consideration with 
the agriculturist. As his chief dependence is upon grazing, any 

AUGYLE. T 



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S90 ARGYLESHIIIE. 

improvements that he makes ought to be done with the view of 
meliorating his pasture. 

Plantations, — These are of recent formation in this parish. They 
chiefly consist of larches, spruce, Scotch and silver firs, elms, alders, 
beeches, and planes. Planes seem to reconcile themselves best to 
the disadvantages of unfavourable soil and climate. At Fishinisb, in 
a very exposed situation, on that part of the Lochbuy estate which 
lies on the Sound of Mull, a few large planes are in a thriving 
state, while there is not a vestige of any other kind of tree, or even 
shrub, seen making its appearance in the surrounding landscape. 

Rent of Land. — It is impossible to ascertain the average rent of 
an acre of arable land in this parish, as the farms are all let as 
grazing farms. 

The grazing of a full-grown cow or ox is L.2 for the year, and 
for a ewe or full-grown sheep, 2s. 

Wages, — The wages of men-servants are from L.7 to L.10 per 
annum with board ; of women servants, from L.d to L.4 for the 
same period. The wages of a shepherd who lives in his master's 
house, are between L.8 and]Lil2, or an equivalent in grazing. If 
he have a house of his own, his wages consist of the grazing of 
two cows, a horse, and twenty sheep, with potato land, and 
ground for raising as much crop as will fodder his cattle. Day 
labourers, occasionally employed, receive Is. 3d. in summer, and 
Is. in winter. A mason gets 2s. a day ; a carpenter, 2s. 6d.; and 
a tailor, Is. 6d. Smiths do not contract for work* The price of 
a set of horse shoes is ds. Other work is in proportion. 

Husbandry. -^The rotation of crops, on land possessed by pro- 
prietors or tacksmen that have their arable subdivided, is gene^ 
rally as follows : 1. oats ; 2. a green crop, either of potatoes or 
turnip ; 3. oats or bear, sown down with grass seeds ; 4. bay ; 5. 
second crop of hay^ 6. pasture. 

The arable possessed by crofters or small tenants, paying a rent 
of between L.10 and L.30, is in constant tillage. Two white 
crops and a potato crop have long succeeded each other on their 
patches of ground, without intermission. 

Improvements.'^lAwiAi has been done of late in the parish in 
the way of reclaiming waste land, straightening the channels of 
rivulets, and draining wet, arable, and hill pasture ; but these im- 
provements have been chiefly executed by proprietors. 

The tacksmen are beginning to follow, on a small scale, the 
good example thus set before them ; buf the s^hortness of their 



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T0R08AY. 



291 



leases, which do not exceed nine years, does not hold out a suffi* 
eieot iDduoemeDt to tbem to apply much capital in this way. If 
short leases are thus unfaTourable to iiDprovements, the giving of 
no leases at all is much more so. This class having no certainty 
one year that they shall be in occupation the next, endeavour to 
make the most of their crofts with the least possible labour and 
expense. Hence the constant poaching of the same piece of 
ground that is already brought to their hand, and the constant 
application, in its pure state, of the scorching stimulant of sea- 
ware to it, in order to force it to yield all its fertility in the pro- 
duction of the present crop, as being possibly the last which they 
shall be permitted to grow upon it, instead of manuring it proper- 
ly, and giving it occasional rest, so as to insure future crops. 

£rive-5^cN:A.— The stocks of sheep are of the black-faced kind, 
and much pains are taken to improve them by the annual impor- 
tation of tups from the southern counties of the kingdom. Some 
farmers import, also, a certain number of ewe lambs every year, 
either from stocks of high character on the mainland of Argyle- 
shire, or from the south. 

The black-cattle are of the West Highland breed, and from a 
lately formed Association of the gentlemen of the district for en- 
couraging their improvement, much good is expected to result 

The Mull ponies were for a long time famed for their metal. 
Their superiority in this respect, it is said, had been owing to a 
few entire horses of the Aodalusian breed, landed from one of 
the ships of the Spanish Armada, that had put into Tobermory 
in distress. Of late years, the breed has been improved in si^e ; 
but what it has gained in this respect, it has lost in point of har- 
diness. 

Farm-Bvildings. — On farms let to tacksmen, suitable dwelling 
houses and offices have in many instances been lately built ; but 
the crofters, as yet, are but poorly accommodated in this respect. 
With the exception of the farms in the hands of proprietors, the 
instances of other farms having enclosures or subdivisions are very 
rare. 

Fisheries. — The various kinds of these carried on are for salmon, 
cod, ling, herrings, and mackerel. The salmon fisheries are let 
at a rent of L.55 for the season. 

Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce 
raised in the parish Annually, as nearly as can be ascertained, may 
be thus stated : — 



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2912 ARUYLESHIRG* 

Produce of grain of all kinds, . . L.5500 
poutoei, turnip* and beet* • 4360 
hay, . * 670 
gardens, .... 150 
anuuAl thinningSj and periodical felling of woods and plan- 
tations, .... 250 
asberies of all kinds, . . . 256 
land in pasture, rating it at L.2 per cow or full-grown ox grax- 

ed, and at 2s. per ewe pastured for a year, 4270 

wool, 5260 stones at 8s. 2104 



L.17,560 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

There is no nmrkettown in this parish. The nearest to it is 
Oban, separated from it by the Sound of MuH, and distant ten 
miles. 

Means of Communicatimu — These are, Xst^ The post-oflSce at 
Auchenacraig, where the arrivals and departures of (he mail are 
three times a week. *2d^ The district road between the ferry of 
Auchenacraig and Tobermory, which passes seventeen miles 
through the parish, and the road to KilOnichen, which passes 
eighteen miles through it. d(/. In summer one or more steam* 
boats ply almost daily through the Sound of Mull, taking on board 
and landing passengers and goods at different points of the coast 
of the parish. 4fA, The bridges are numerous, and are all in good 
condition. All the bays in the parish, with the exception of that 
of Pennygown, are frequented by vessels, as being safe harbours. 
bthi^ There are three ferrying stations, one for ferrying to Mor- 
ven, one to Nether Lorn, and one to Kerrara. The last station 
is the principal channel of communication with the mainland. 
The Sound between Auchenacraig and Kerrara is about four 
miles and a half broad. When the former Statistical Account 
was written, there were more black-cattle ferried at Auchenacraig 
than now. At that time, the Coll and Tyrie cattle were landed 
at the back of Mull, and driven to this ferry; but now the smacks 
that take them first on board, proceed with them direct to the main- 
land. 

Eecksiahtieal State. — The parish church is conveniently situ- 
ated. Its distance from the extremities of the district remaining 
attached to it quoad sacroy is only six miles on either hand. It 
was built sixty years ago. In 1828, it underwent a thorough re- 
pair; but new repairs were rendered necessary in 1832, in conse- 
quence of its having been struck by lightning. It is at present in 
good condition. It contains sittings only for 280 people, and 
these sittings are all free. 



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TOROSAY. 29s 

The late Mrs Maclaine of Loch buy, mother to the present 
laird, presented the parish, about forty years ago, with two hand- 
some communion cups. In 1829, Colonel Campbell of Possil 
made a present to it of a church belU 

Prior to 1831, the incumbents had manse money in lieu of the 
legal accommodations. In that year a manse was built at Craig- 
Durie ; but, not being water-proof, it stood in need of considerable 
repairs two years thereafter. These repairs it received, and the 
evil that rendered them necessary, was completely checked by the 
harling of the walls with Arden lime. 

The glebe is 27^ acres in extent, and if let might draw about 
L.U of rent. The stipends are permanently fixed at L.172, 
19s. 4A,d. 

Prior to 1828, the minister preached alternately in the parish 
church, which is at Craignuire, and at Kinlochspelve, which is 
twelve miles from Craignuire. A missionary officiated at Salen, 
the other extremity of the parish. In the course of that year, a 
Parliamentary manse was built there, and the church, which had 
been erected about sixty years ago, for the use of the Mull mis- 
sion, was given over by the heritors to the Parliamentary commis- 
sioners, when it was enlarged, and a minister appointed to it. An* 
other Parliamentary church and manse were built atKinloch- 
spelve, and a minister was inducted there that year also. 

Each of them has a glebe of about two acres in extent, and 
L. 1 20 of stipends, payable out of the Exchequer. 

Of the population of the parish about 1000 are attached, quoad 
Moeroj to the two Government churches, and to the parish of Kil* 
finichen. 

All the families in the parish, with the exception of five, attend 
the churches of the Establishment. Of these, two are Roman 
Catholics, and three Anabaptists. With the exception of one, 
they are not natives of the island. A few years ago, two families 
of Dissenters, from the low country, came to reside in the parish. 
One was in connection 'with the Associate Synod, the other with 
the Relief body. They both joined the Establishment. 

Educatioru — The number of schools in the parish is seven. Of 
these four are parochial, one an Assembly's school, one is sup- 
ported by the Glasgow Auxiliary Gaelic School Society, and one 
is a subscription school. Three of the parochial teachers have 
each a salary of L.15, 88. lO^d. The fourth, who only teaches 
a branch of the parochial schools in a sequestered glen, has only 



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294 ARGYLESHIRB. 

L.5. The teachers of the Assembly's school and of the Gaelic 
Auxiliary School have each about L.20 of a salary. The teacher 
of the subscription school is boarded by the parents of the scholars in 
rotation, and receives a few pounds of money as wages. None of 
the teachers realizes more than L. 5 per annum by the quarter 
fees. These fees, in the parochial schools, which regulate the 
others, are as follows : for reading, Is. 6d. per quarter ; for writ- 
ing, 2s. ; and for arithmetic, 2s. 6d. 

As the maximum salary is given and divided among several 
teachers, the Schoolmaster's Act, as it is at present interpreted, 
renders it not compulsory on the heritors to give any accommo- 
dations, or even to build schooUhouses. The consequence is, 
that there is not a proper parochial school-house in the whole pa- 
rish. The children in the depth of winter are often up to the 
ancles in water, and frequently the teaching of them is interrupts 
ed altogether, when the ill-thatched hovels allotted to them as 
school-houses are stripped bare by high winds. This shows a de- 
fect in the Act which loudly calls for its revision. If advantage 
continue to be taken of the 11th clause of the Act, which ex- 
empts the heritors, in those parishes where the salary is divided, 
from building even school-houses, it would be more for the inte- 
rest of education to have them assessed in the minimum salary only. 
For one teacher, having a proper school-house, would surely do 
more good in a parish than any number without places to teach 
in. The legal accommodations with the whole parochial stent 
would secure the services of a well qualified persou. Boys of 
promising parts would be sent from the remotest parts of the parish 
to attend the school, and an opportunity would thus be afforded 
them of receiving that measure of education which would enable 
them to emerge from obscurity. Whereas at present the bright- 
est genius may remain undiscovered for want of the means of bring- 
ing it to light. The part of the parish in which the school would 
be placed would undoubtedly have the chief benefit of it ; but it 
would not absorb it all. The school would emit a beneficial influ- 
ence that would reach to the farthest off corner of the parish. Un- 
der a proper schoolmaster, so many good scholars would be formed 
in the school, that the parents of children, in the remote parts of the 
parish, could easily find boys, with higher qualifications than the 
present teachers, who would be ready to engage as teachers to 
their children for little mor» than they receive at present for act- 
ing as herds. It is to be hoped that some of the heritors who 



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TOROSAY. 295 

are at present availing themselves of the exemption alluded to, 
will soon take into consideration the good that might be effected 
with the stent, which they are in the meantime paying to no pur-» 
pose ; and that they will of their own accord apply to the Legislature 
for a revision of the Act with a view to its amendment. 

Poor and Phrochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid, within the district attached to the parish 
church, calculated for the last six years, is 27. The average sum 
allotted to each is 12s. per annum. The average amount of the 
church collections, calculated for the same period, is L.I7. From 
this statement, it is obvious that the paupers derive their chief 
support from the source of private charity, which, to the credit of 
the parish, pervades all ranks of people in it, not excepting even 
those bordering upon pauperism themselves. This benevolent 
spirit has hitherto rendered unnecessary the adoption of a com- 
pulsory mode of assessment. 

Fairs. — There are three annual fairs held on the farm of Fish- 
inish, which is about eleven miles from Auchenacraig Ferry. 
Two of them are for black*cattle, viz. on Tuesday before the se- 
cond last Wednesday of May, and on Tuesday before the second 
last Wednesday of October, and one is for horses, viz. on the first 
Friday after the 20th of August, or on the 20th if Friday. 

Inns. — There are four licensed public- houses. Being situated 
at equal but considerable distances from each other, their existence 
is necessary as places of refreshment. As few resort to them for 
the mere purpose of drinking, they exercise no unfavourable in- 
fluence on the morals of the people. 

iuee/.— The fuel chiefly used in the parish is peats, and, as 
every family makes a sufiicient quantity for their own use, peats are 
not a saleable article. Coals, before the late sudden rise in the 
price of them, could be procured, from vessels passing through the 
Sound of Mull, at 128. per ton. 

MiSCELLANBOUS OBSERVATIONS. 

Since the fqrmer Statistical Account was written, a great change 
has taken place in the parish with regard to farming utensils. At 
that time, there was not a cart in it ; but now, there is not a croft 
without one. Then, the ploughs used were extremely rude in 
their materials and construction ; but now, they are of the most 
approved kinds. At that time, the harrows had only wooden 
teeth ; but now, they are all toothed with iron. The consequence 
is, that a much greater productivenes is effected on the same ex- 



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296 AROYLESHIRE. 

tent of ground tilled. So far the change is to the better. But 
we have now, in conclusion, to advert to a change to the worse. 
The manufacture of kelp was carried on fornierly to a consider- 
able extent, and gave employment to many hands for a great part 
of the summer months ; but it declined much, when the duty on 
barilla was taken off; and it has now ceased altogether, as it is 
found not to afford a fair remuneration. The class of people who 
were thus supported at home, are forced to seek emplo^fment 
wherever they can find it. 

Juffust 1843. 



PARISH OF 

KILFINICHEN AND KILVICEUEN.* 

COMPREHENDING TUE QUOAD SACRA PARISH OF lONA, IN THE 
ISLAND OF MULL. 

PRESBYTERY OF MULL, SYNOD OF ARGYLB. 

THE REV, DONALD CAMPBELL, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — This parish derived its name from two places of pub- 
lic worship ; the one in the district of Airdmeanach, called KilB- 
nichen ; the other in the district of Ross, named Kilviceiien. 
The numerous parishes into which the Island of Mull was divided 
in the days of Papal ascendency, were, at the Reformation, united 
into one, under the destination of the Parish of Mull, and, at that 
era, this large parish of Mull formed a part of the presbytery of 
Lorn. In 1688, or thereby, all that part of Mull to the north of 
the isthmus where this large island is almost cut into two equal 
parts towards Arps, by an estuary from the Atlantic named Loch- 
nan gaul, was erected into a parish called the United Parish of 
Kilninian and Kilmore, and for forty years thereafter, the rest of 
the Island of Mull continued to be one parish, under the deno- 
mination of the Parish of Ross, when another parish was erected, 
called the Parish of Torosay. Tbe remainder, still a very ex- 
tensives tract of country, obtained the name of the Parish of Kil- 

• Drawn up by Frai)ci» M'illiam Clark, Esq. of UJra. 



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KILFINICHRN AND KILVICEUEN. 297 

finicben and Kilviceiien, from the two places of worship before 
alluded to, although, in the country, it is more generally known 
by the name of the Parish of Ross. In the year 1828, the Par- 
liamentary Commissioners, under the Act 4 and 5 George IV., 
built a Government church and manse in the Island of lona, and 
a quoad sacra parish was thereto attached. 

Extentj Boundaries^ §'c. — Exclusive of the Islands of Icolmkill, 
Inniskenneth, and Eorsa, which belong to it, the extent is very 
great. Situated in the south-western part of the Island of Mull, 
it is bounded on the east and north-easl by a ridge of mountains 
which separates it from the parish of Torosay ; on the south, an 
arm of the Atlantic, running up towards Oban, separates it from 
the Islands of Colonsay, Jura, and Isla, and the main land of Ar- 
gyleshire ; on the west, by the Atlantic ; and, on the north, an 
estnary from that ocean, called Loch-nan -gaul, separates it from 
the parishes of Uiva, and Kilninian, and Kilmore. The Islands 
of Inniskenneth and Eorsa, belonging to the parish, lie in this 
estuary. From the confines of the parish of Torosay, to the 
Sound of Icolmkill, which is its extreme length, exclusive of the 
Island of I or Icolmkill, in a straight line, it may measure about 
24 miles. Its greatest breadth is where it meets the parish of 
Torosay, and may be about 13 miles. Exclusive of its islands, 
the parish, quoad cimlia^ may be set down about 170 to 180 
square miles. The parish, quoad civilian is divided into four di- 
visions or districts, namely, Icolmkill, Ross, Brolas, and Aird- 
meanach. The three first lie to the south of Lochscridain, an 
arm of the Atlantic that runs twelve miles from west to east into 
the parish. Airdmeanach, the fourth district, lies north of loch- 
scridain, and parallel to Ross and Brolas. The Island of I lies 
in the Atlantic, and is separated from Ross by a narrow channel 
called the Sound of I. This latter district will be described at 
greater length in the sequel.. The districts of Brolas and Ross 
are nearly of equal extent, and separated from one another by a 
ridge of hills of no great height. From the Sound of I to the 
parish of Torosay, these two districts extend to about 24 miles, 
which, as already mentioned, is the greatest length of the parish, 
and their breadth may be from 3^ to 7 miles. Airdmeanach 
joins Brolas at the head of Lochscridain, and may be about Id 
miles in length, and from 3 to 6 in breadth. 

Ross signifies in Gaelic a point of land jutting out into the sea, 
or a peninsula; Brolas, a grey ridge, or a rugged ridge; and 



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298 ARGYLESHIRE. 

Airdmeanach, the middle point or middle quarter, and received 
this name from its lying in the middle between the points of Ross 
and Tresnisfa. 

Topographical Appeara'nces.^^TiBkmg the parish in general, 
it presents but a barren appearance, although, on a more nar- 
row inspection, much fertile land and kindly and sweet pasture 
agreeably surprise the inquirer. The greatest part is hilly, and 
adapted rather for grazing than for raising crops. Part is low 
and flat, consisting of heath, green pasture, rocks, and arable 
ground. Ross in particular is flat, excepting where it marches 
with Brolas, and the greatest part of its surface is moss and heath. 
Its arable land is formed of clayey and sandy soils ; but where it 
marches with Brolas, the soil is thin and light. The grass is 
in general soft and good, and even the heath of this district is con- 
sidered good feeding for cattle. The arable land is very fertile. 
Brolas, rising in a gentle ascent from Lochscridain, has a north- 
ern exposure. The greatest parts of the surface consist of heath 
and rocks, and the soil light, dry, and rather barren ; but that part 
of this district which faces the south, and is called Carsaig and 
Inimore, is more fertile, and produces good soft grass for pasture. 
Airdmeanach, facing the south, rises to a considerable height from 
Lochscridain, and iu surface and soil similar to that of Brolas. 

Mountain Ranges^ S^c, — The only mountains are. those which 
divide the parish from that of Torosay. The most remarkable of 
these is Benmore, reaching to an altitude of 8097 feet above the 
level of the sea, and is the highest land in Mull or the adjacent 
islands. This is a beautifully formed mountain, and of a conical 
flgure. According to St Fond, it resembles much the famous 
volcanic mountain Vesuvius. Its summit presents all the appear- 
ance of a crater, and richly repays the traveller whose curiosity 
has led him to toil up the ascent The writer of this narrative 
has been on the top on a fine day^ with a serene sky, and the at- 
mosphere uncommonly clear. The emotions and feelings in the 
mind of a beholder arising from the grandeur of this scene, cannot 
be excited by any description. As far as the eye can reach, there 
is a prospect of laud and sea. Here, spread out as it were at 
the beholder's feet, he sees Staifa, lona, the Treshnisb Isles, Coll 
and Tirie, Monk, Rum, Skye, &c. and the headland of Ardna- 
murchan ; and nearer, Ulva, Gometra, Colonsa, Eon», and 
other objects, beautifully diversifying the broad face of the west- 
ern sea, distinct as in a map. While, to the eastward and south- 



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ItlLFlNICHEN AND KILVICEUEN. 299 

ward, be sees the whole alpine country of Argyleshire, (the an- 
cient Albion,) with its thousand hills ; together with Scarba, 
Islay, and Jura, with the smaller isles of the Argyleshire coast ; 
and, in the extreme distance, Ireland. 

The bold headland of Burg rises to a considerable height from 
the sea* All the mountains and hills in the parish are covered 
with heath. Basaltic columns, similar to those of StafTa, but not 
so large, regular, nor elegant, are to be found in the headland of 
Burg, in the farm of Ardtun, in Ross, and in many parts of Bro- 
las, and more particularly in Inimore, facing the south channel. 
In this last place, the rocks rise almost perpendicular from the sea, 
and to a great height ; and in the face of these rocks the columns 
in some parts of four ranges, and in others of five, present them- 
selves with strata of rock between each range ; but the pillars are 
small, and the ranges irregular, and seams of coal appear in some 
places. As a whole, the appearances are very picturesque, par- 
ticularly in storms, when the sea rages beneath, and numberless 
cascades tumble down the precipices and broken rocks above. 

Caves — Caverns. — Among the many caves in Airdmeanach, 
there are two deserving of particular notice. One is called the 
Ladder Cave, to which there is a passage of about 80 feet, open 
at the top, and affording space for two men to walk a breast. At 
the entrance of the cave, there is a small breastwork, by way of 
defence, and to this was placed a ladder for the people to get over ; 
and hence its name. Within, there is a space for about eighty 
armed men. Here is a large flagstone, said to have been used as 
a table, and. some other conveniences ; and tradition says the 
country people took shelter here in troublous times. The other 
cave is in Gribun, in Aicdmeanach, and much more capacious than 
the Ladder Cave. It is called Mackinnon's Cave, from a tradi- 
tion that a gentleman of that name, whose curiosity had been ex« 
cited by various reports of its amazing extent, went in to explore 
it, and was never again heard of. As the place has been investi- 
gated with better success in latter times, the conclusion is, that he 
must have been killed by persons who had taken shelter there, and 
who considered him as a spy or intruder. In the autumn of 1773, 
Dr Johnson, accompanied by his faithful Boswell, visited this cave. 
The great lexicographer on that occasion seemed not to be in so 
snarling a humour as was his wont, with Scots and Scotland. 
This cave is considered by the people to extend across the coun* 
try, and it is said that Mackinnon, before alluded to, when 



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dOO ARGYLRSHIRE. 

going in search of its end or bottom, had bewildered himself 
in its mazes, and was lost Some people might have found it 
their interest to propagate this story, and impress upon the 
vulgar mind a frightful idea of the cave, there being little 
doubt of its being repeatedly used for safety and shelter in times 
of trouble. It«( formation has arisen in all probability from the 
wasting of a trap vein. The mouth is fortified by vast fragments 
of stones, which render it rather difficult of access, and the bot- 
tom, as far as the tide beats in, is covered with shingle and quan* 
tities of cast ware or sea- weed. Farther in, it is spread over with 
smooth sand* The breadth at the entrance may be about 45 feet, 
andthe roof, rising almost in a regular arch, is so high and lofty, 
that the torches and lights used are insufficient to show it distinct- 
ly ; and, from its general depth or length, it is not very possible 
to form a notion of its dimensions from any point of view* Pass* 
ing inwards from the sea to a great depth on the right hand side, 
is a narrow passage, about six feet wide, obstructed by large 
stones, over which, having passed, there is a second cave of about 
25 feet in breadth ; and here is a square stone, called Fingal's 
table. Onwards still the cave leads, until tokens of a feculent or 
corrupted atmosphere beginning to affect the lights, warn the tra- 
veller as to the propriety of returning. This cave is much visited 
by tourists. 

In Inimore, there is a cave called the Nuns' cave, and consi- 
dered to have been the habitation of Nuns. Tradition is silent as 
to the time when they resided here ; but most probably, it was 
subsequent to the demolition and dissolution of the nunnery at 
lona, that they sheltered themselves in this sequestered place* 
Several crosses are cut in the sides of .the cave, and there are 
many initials of names ; but these last seem modern. 

Islands. — Passing over lona, which will be treated of afterwards, 
there are two islands attached to the parish, and both in the es- 
tuary of Loch-nan*gaul. These are Inniskenneth and Eorsa, the 
former a very fertile little island, separated from Gribun by a 
sound of half a mile. This island is about a mile long, and less 
than half a mile broad, and supposed to take its name from Ken- 
neth, a friend of St Columba, whom he is said to have rescued by 
prayer from drowning during a storm *^ in unlosis Ckarybdis Bre^ 
cant" This Kenneth is supposed to have died abbot of Achabo, 
in Ireland, in 600. According to Donald Monro, Deao of the 
Isles, and who visited this, amongst other islands, in 1549, Innis- 



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KILFINICIIKN AND KILVICEIEN. 301 

kenneth at that time belonged to the prioress of lona. Thus he 
proceeds, as related in Macfarlane's MS., Advocates' Library : 
** On the north and north- north-eist of Colmkill lyes an lyle be 
12 myles of sea, till within the entres of Locheseaford foresaid, 
callit Inchekenzie, half ane myle in lenthe, and not fully half a 
myle in breadthe, a fair He, fertile and fruitfuU, inhabit and man- 
nurit, full of cunnings about the shores of it, with a paroch kirk, 
the maist parochin being upon the main shoar of Mull, being onlie 
an half myle distant from the said He, and the haill parochin of 
it pertains to the Prioress of Colmkill." 

The ruins of this parish church, or it may be chapel, are still 
very entire; they stand about 60 feet in length by 30 in breadth. 
Near to the ruins are the remains of a cross. The cemetery 
around the chapel is covered with tombstones of chieftains and 
other personages, and still continues to be used as a place of sepul- 
ture. The remains of Sir Allan Maclean's cottage, where, with 
his two daughters, he so hospitably entertained Dr Johnson and 
his friends, are yet to be seen. The description which their 
learned guest has given of his visit is one of the most interesting 
and pleasing passages in his narrative. The ashes of Sir Allan 
rest near the spot where he related to the Doctor his American 
campaign ; but the estate has long since gone from the family. It 
is now the property of Colonel Robert Macdonald, who has built 
a mansion house on the island ; and, like Sir Allan, resides there 
in agreeable retirement, after having fought and bled in the cause 
of his country. Close to Inniskenneth is the small islet of Sandi- 
land, visited likewise by the Doctor, and capable of grazing a few 
sheep. 

Farther up Loch*ua-gaul is Eorsa, which is thus described by 
Dean Munro in 1549, in the MS. before alluded to: ^< Within 
this lyle of Inch Kenzie, in the said Loche of Seafort, be an myle 
of sea, lyes an ile callit Eorsay, ane fertile ile, full of come and 
grassing, mair than a myle lange, pertaining to the Prioress of 
Colmkill.*' There are no inhabitants here now, and no crops of 
any kind raised, it being used solely for feeding sheep, and it be- 
longs in property to the Duke of Argyle. 

Sea Coasty ^c. — In a parish so very extensive, almost surround- 
ed by the sea, and indented by its arms, it is no exaggeration to 
say that, including its islands, the whole sea coast may be comput- 
ed to be nearly one hundred and twenty miles. The shores are 
bold and rocky, presenting an iron bound appearance throughout 



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302 ARGVLESHIUK. 

almost their whole extent. Upon the south side of the parish, there 
is only one creek or anchorage ground, and that in Ross, called 
Portuisgen, where a vessel of 30 tons naay anchor, but not in safe- 
ty, if the weather be stormy. Upon the Ross side of the sound of 
lona, there are two creeks, the one called the Barachan, and the 
other Poltairve or the bull pond, where vessels of considerable 
burden may anchor in great safety, with proper pilots. In the 
sound of lona, there is a sand bank almost in the middle of the 
channel, so that vessels passing through it, must keep within one- 
third channel of lona. Lochlahich lies east of the sound of lona, 
at the distance of about three miles ; an island or rock at the en- 
trance must be kept by the vessel entering the loch upon the star- 
board quarter, but wi^ a leading wind a vessel may safely enter 
between this small island and the Rossland on the west, as this 
channel, although narrow, is deep and free of rocks. After enter- 
ing the loch, a small island at the bottom of it must be kept upon 
the larboard. Between this island and the mainland, vessels in 
general anchor, but there is no danger in anchoring in any part of 
the loch. This loch runs about two miles from north to sqjjth 
into Ro^s, and is considered very safe anchorage. A small arm of 
it runs westward, and is called Lochcaol, but is too shallow for 
any vessel to anchor in. The whole of Loch Scridain may be 
called a road, but the best anchorage ground is at Kilfinichen 
and another place at the head of the loch, called the Narrows, 
where vessels may ride in safety from all storms. The headland 
of Burg in Airdmeanach, and the whole north coast of that dis- 
trict, is exceedingly dangerous, the coast being bold, full of rocks, 
and no harbour. 

Meteorology. — The climate of the parish is temperate, but ra- 
ther moist, arising either from its being surrounded by the Atlan- 
tic, or the high hills which separate it from the parish of Torosay. 
The prevailing gales are from the west and south-west The in- 
habitants are healthy, and attain to great age. Even in Ross, 
where it is low and marshy, the inhabitants are healthy and long- 
lived, for the gales from the mountains purify the air, and contri- 
bute much to the health of the inhabitants. Few diseases are 
known except fevers, which are generally brought from the low 
country by labourers returning from the harvest and other works 
they are employed in> during the summer and harvest. 

Hydrography, — The only lakes in the parish are three incon^ 
siderable ones in Ross j the largest of them is not above a mile 



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KILFINICHEN AND KILVICEUEN. 308 

and a half in length, and about half a mile in breadth. In Bra- 
las and Airdmeanachy there are six rivers, but having no lakes for 
their source, and the run short, they are not considerable except 
in time of rain, and then a great quantity of water is rolled down 
the sides of the hills with prodigious force, the banks become over- 
flown, when it is dangerous for travellers to attempt crossing them 
either on foot or on horseback, and frequently they cannot be cross- 
ed either way. Besides these, there are a number of rivulets 
which swell in time of rain, and cannot be crossed. During rain 
storms, a thousand streams fall down the rocks of Burg and Gri- 
bun, and those of Inimore and Carsaig. Burg forms a circuit of 
several miles facing the Atlantic to the west, and Inimore and 
Carsaig a continued ridge of rocks of five or six miles in length 
facing the south channel. The rocks of these being in some 
places perpendicular, and in all places nearly so, and some hun- 
dred feet in height, the streams rushing from their tops form 
very magnificent cascades ; and should a high wind be olowmg 
against them, the water is whirled up in <;olumns like smoke to- 
ward the skies, and presents a scene of uncommon sublimity. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — A portion of the parish is com|)osed of 
rocksof the trap and oolite formations,and they evenform part of many 
of the high hills. The primary strata are to be found in Ross, and in 
a small patch on the shores of Loch Scridain. Professor St Fond 
says that Benmore is composed of lava, and Jameson agrees pretty 
nearly with his observations. The lofty crags of the whole shores 
are composed of basalt and wacken strata, traversed by basaltic 
veins which run in very different directions, and contain much zeo- 
lite. The island of Inniskenneth is composed of red-coloured 
sandstone and limestone, and on the shores of Gribun opposite, 
are to be found argillaceous sandstone and sandstone breccia. 
The same appearances are presented at Carsaig, where there is 
limestone, and where freestone is quarried of good quality. Ja- 
meson found the granite of Ross disposed in beds, and that it 
would split into rhombs, and, what is more uncommon, into co- 
lumns not unlike basalt. Dr Walker, many years previous, ob- 
served the same disposition of the granite not only in Mull, but in 
many other parts of Scotland. The whole south side of Ross is 
formed of granite and micac-eous schist us, until it arrives upon a 
line with Bunessan, where the basaltic rock commences. Of this 
granite the Sceryvore light-house is being erected. 

Mines. — There are several appearances of brown coal upon the 



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30^ AUGYLESHIRE. 

coast, but the most remarkable is that upon the hill called Bein-an* 
Innie. Thishilliscomposedof horizontalstrataofbasaltand wackeot 
which alterDate and rise to the top of the hill, like great natural 
terraces. The coal appears in the bed of a rivulet upon the side 
of the mountain, and is about three feet thick, and immediately 
covered by basalt. Jameson thinks it one of the greatest beds of 
coal that has as yet been discovered in the western Highlands, 
and as such worthy of particular attention. Several trials have 
been made with a view to the working of it, but of a nature so 
trifling, that they only deserve notice as showing how little the 
importance of the subject has been understood. Sir David Mur- 
ray of Stanhope, about 120 years ago, was the Brst gentleman who 
seems to haVe been aware of its consequence, for he then pur- 
chased the hill solely on account of the coal ; he proposed to open 
the bed in a very extensive manner, and to work it until he 
should be satisfied whether it was practicable to continue it to ad* 
vantage. This scheme was unfortunately frustrated by a failure 
in his affairs, and the working was stopped a short time after he be* 
gan. Since theni the property changed hands, and several at- 
tempts have been made to work it ; but the business appears to 
have been committed to persons who were satisfied with oriaking 
very superficial and unsatisfactory trials. Sir James Riddel of 
Ardnamurchan, about fifty years ago," then the proprietor, made 
a trial ; but after some coals were dug, he also gave up the work. 
The quality of the coals is said to be good. 

A seam of about eighteen inches thick appears on the sea 
coast of Ross, the property of the Duke of Argyle. Coals also 
appear in Brolas and in Gribun, and Mr Maclean of Pennycross 
is presently boring ftfr coal in his lands of Carsaig with every 
prospect of success. 

Zoology. — In the lakes and rivers, are to be found trout, and 
in the former pike. Great shoals of various kinds of fish surround 
all the coasts of the parish ; such as herring, cod, ling, mackerel, 
laith, codling, seth, gurnot, rock fish, &c« Of the flat fish, there 
are flounders, plaice, soles, turbot, skate, &c. The shell fish are, 
oysters, clams, cockles, muscles, welks, crabs, lobsters, and vari* 
ous others. Seals frequent the coast, porpoises often ; and some* 
times whales come after the hemngs. The wild quadrupeds in 
the parish are deer, rabbits, and hares ; the deer during harvest 
frequently leave the mountains, to eat the com in the low grounds 



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KILPINICHEN AND KILVICEUEN. 805 

of Ross and Brolas. All the varieties of land birds are to be found 
in this parish which are generally met with in the Highlands, 
such as eagles, hawks, kites, wildgeese, pigeons, moor-fowl, black- 
cock, ptarmigan, &c The sea-fowls are as numerous as the kinds 
are various ; such as cormorants, scarts, teals, shieldrakes, ducks 
of various kinds, &c* The migratory are, swans, swallows, lap- 
wing, woodcock, plovers, solan geese, curlews, wigeons, &c. 

Botany. — Along the shores, the Pulmanaria maritima^ or sea 
bugloss, is to be found. Tn the marshy grounds, the Mtnyanthes 
trifoliatumy or marsh trefoil, appears : and the JtmiperuB cammunisj 
or juniper tree, is common on most of the hills. 

Woods and Plantations. — The only plantations in the parish 
are' those about Kilfinichen and Pennycross, and these not to 
any extent. In the district of Airdmeanach, are to be found oak, 
ash, and birch, all natural, but not attaining to any thing of size 
or dimensions. 

II. — Civil Historv. 

Land'Owners. — The chief landholder in the parish is the Duke 
of Argyle ; the others are Dugald Maclachlan, Esq. of Killimore ; 
Colonel Robert Macdonald of Inniskenneth ; Murdoch Maclaine, 
Esq. of Lochbuy ; Archibald J. Campbell, Esq. of Kilpatrick ; 
John Auljoe, Esq. of Pennyghail; Alexander Maclean, Esq. of 
Carsaig ; and Donald Maclean, Esq. of Kinloch. 

The valued rent of the whole parish amounts to L.207, 6s. 5d, 
Sterling. It contains 37^ penny lands, and is thus divided among 
the proprietors : 

The Dttka of Argyle, 
Dugald Maclachlan, £sq. of KUliraore, 
Colooel Robert Macdonald of Inniskenneth, 
Murdoch Maclaine, Eaq. of Lochbuy, 
Archibald J. Campbell. Eaq of KUpatrick, 
John Auljoe, Esq. of Pennyghail, \ 

Alexander Maclean, Esq. of Carsaig, \ 
Donald Maclean, Esq. of Kinloch, ) 

Sterling money, L.207 6 ^ 

Antiquities. — A monastery is said to have been in the island of 
Inniskenneth, but no traces of the building are now to be seen. 
The ruins of a small church, said by Buchanan to be a parish 
church, and referred to by Dean Munro, and before alluded to, 
are pretty entire. 

In the parish there are many of the round towers of Norwegian 
or Danish origin ; these are all upon the sea-coast and in sight of 

AROYLE. u 



L.lld 


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16 


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30^ ABGTLE8&IRB. 

one another ; they are supposed to have been watch towers to 
gi?e notice of an enemy's approach, which was done rrom the bat- 
tlement by a smoke in the day time, and a fire at night. They 
are small ; most of Ihem would not contain twenty men. 

There are, in many parts of the parish, long stones standing on 
end. The country people call them Carray which signifies friend* 
ship, and they seem to be set up at the head of the graves of emi« 
nent men ; or as memorials of some remarkable transaction carried 
on in these places. 

Since the Reformation, the parish has produced none eminent 
for learning, excepting the Betons of Pennycross, who were cele- 
brated medical men. The family has been long since extinct, but they 
are still spoken of in the country with admiration for their skill 
in physic. Tradition says, that, on the occasion of one of them 
being sent to attend on a king of Scotland, the country people 
flocked around him for advice as to their health during his absence^ 
when he give them this short rule, *' Bhi gu sitgach geanmmadh 
mochaireachj* t. e. ^^ To be cheerful, temperate, and early risers," 

The Druids are said to have had a temple at the head of Loch* 
scridain, in a farm called Rossal, which in Gaelic signifies jwig^ 
ment or jzLstice^ and here they held their courts. This temple is 
but small, and several of the stones have fallen down. 

Parochial Registers. — There was no register of any kind kept 
in the parish until the year 1780, when the then incumbent com- 
menced one, but that only extended to marriages and baptisms. 
Yhere being no less than thirteen burial places in the parish, and 
at a great distance from each other, and from the incumbent's re- 
sidence, deaths were not recorded. 

Mamion^Houses. — These are, Kilfinichen House, the property 
of Dugald Maclachlan, Esq.'of Killiemore, who resides there; 
Pennycross House, belonging to John Auljoe, Esq. of Penny- 
ghail, and occupied by Alexander Maclean^ Esq. of Carsaig ; and 
Colonel Macdonald's residence in Inniskennetb. These are 
neat modem buildings, suitable to the estates and the nature of 
the country and climate. 

HL — Population. 
There are no certain data by which a comparison can be drawn 
between the ancient and present state of the population of the pa- 
rish ; for, as already said, no register of any kind was kept until 
the year 17S0. Some- suppose the population of the parish, in 
ancient times, to have been much greater than now ; and it is put 



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KILPINICHEN AND KILVICEUEN. 907 

forward, as one amongBt other facts, that seven score flien from the 
two districts of Ross and Icolmkill were at the battle of Inver- 
keithing. The destruction occasioned by the civil wars in the 
days of Charles L and Cromwelli and a famine and pestilence dur- 
ing the reign of William and Mary, almost depopulated the whole 
parish. In King William's time, people died for want upon the 
high road, and were buried where they lay down,~-their few sur- 
viving relatives having neither strength nor means to carry the 
bodies to the common burying places. Upon the whole coast of 
Brolas, it is said only two families survived, and very many parts 
of the other districts were, by the same causes, desolated. 

The return made to Dr Webster in 1755, including lona, was 
1685. In the month of February 1791, Mr Dugald Campbell, 
the then incumbent, numbered the whole parish, and a return was 
given of 8002 ; thus nearly doubling the population in forty-six 
years. 

Amount of population in 1811 • 3205 

]821. 3967 

I831» 3819 

1841, 4102 

Language. — The Gaelic language is chiefly spoken, and pre- 
vails in the parish, although there are not many who cannot speak 
or understand the English. Within the last forty years, a bet- 
ter knowledge of the English tongue prevails, from its being 
taught in the schools, and from the greater intercourse opened up 
with the low country by means of steam-boats. The Gaelic of 
this parish is considered very pure, supposed to arise from its con- 
nection with the learned characters who flourished in lona. 

Character, of the People^ jfc — The inhabitants in general are 
quiet, sober, humane, kindly towards each other, and religiously 
inclined. They are healthy, and capable of undergoing much fa- 
tigue ; but the habits of many of them are not over-industrious, 
which is to be regretted, as something more of this kind infused 
into their general character would be much to their advantage. 
A dash of superstition is mixed up with their feelings, and may 
be traced to some opinions handed down by their ancestors, per- 
haps from the time of the Druids. Among these, it is, by some 
of the common people, believed, that the spirit of the last person 
who was buried, watches round the burying-ground until another 
body is interred, to the spirit of which he delivers up the charge 
f f watching, and so on ad infinitum. 



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308 argyLeshibb. 

They make expert and hardy seamen, being accustomed to the 
sea from tlieir infancy ; and they make no less efficient soldiers* 
When his Grace the Duke of Argyle, in 1793, raised the Ar- 
gyleshire Fencibles, commanded by the Marquis of Lorn, very 
many of the youth of the parish joined these ; and many of them 
enlisted in the 74th Regiment, then under his Orace's patronage. 
During the continuance of the late war, many of them were found 
in the line ; and they made no mean appearance in the volunteer 
corps, sustaining at all times^ and under the most trying circum- 
stances, the exalted character of the Highland soldier. 

IV. — Industry. 

Several individuals pay rents of L.70 or thereby ; but the bulk 
of the population, consisting of crofters possessing small patches 
of land, agricultural labourers, cottars, and &shermen, pay rents 
from L.4 to L.12 annually. These have no leases, occupying 
only from year to year. The large tenants have leases, varying 
in duration according to agreement. 

Agriculture. — The different kinds of manure made use of are 
shell sand, which is found in Ross, dung from the housed cattle, 
and sea ware, with which every part of the coast abounds. The 
plough is made use of where the nature of the ground will admit 
of it ; but where the ground is broken and full of stones, and in 
soft and mossy parts, the old Hjghland spade is used ; the crops 
which places so worked by the spade produce, seem, in a great 
measure, to compensate the toil. 

Small tenants or crofters plant their potatoes in the lazy b^d 
way. Those raised by sea- ware in this mode are not so dry as 
these planted or dibbled in the same kind of beds, and are ma- 
nured with dung. Others in tha parish drill their potatoes, where 
the ground is accessible to the plough. 

The other crops raised are oats, and bear or Scots barley. 
The former is made into meal, or used in the straw, during winter 
and spring, for feeding the cattle ; the latter obtains a ready sale 
at the Tobermory and Oban distilleries. Turnip on the large 
farms is being grown, and clover and rye grass are not unfrequently 
sown. The parish does not produce so much meal and potatoes 
as to support the inhabitants. The meal imported comes gene- 
rally from the Clyde ; and the parish of Ulva supplies to those 
requiring it the quantity of potatoes awanting. The sowing be- 
gins generally about the 20th of March, and is Bnished about the 



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KILPINICHEN AND KILVICEUEN. SOfl 

middle of May. lo good years, the crop is cut down in Septem- 
ber ; in bad seasons, some of the crop has not been cut down un- 
til November, 

Live-Stock. — This parish, as well as the whole of Mull, is dis^ 
tinguished for a hardy breed of black cattle, that can be easily 
fattened, and whose flesh is fine-grained, juicy, and well tasted. 
The larger farmers keep a few low country cows for furnishing 
milk ; but to this use alone are they confined. The horses are 
hardy and full of mettle, and sure-footed upon the roughest roads. 
There formerly were goats ; but about fifty years ago, they were 
banished from the Duke of Argyle's property, and only a very 
few now are to be seen in other parts of the parish. The sheep, 
until within the last forty years, were of the small Highland breed; 
but now the hills are covered with Cheviots and low country 
sheep. 

Kelp. — This manufacture has entirely disappeared, with the 
Exception of a very little made at Inuiskenneth and Gribun. Be- 
fore barilla was allowed to enter our market duty free, and thereby 
exclude the kelp, there were no less than 150 tons annually ma* 
nufactured in this parish, and of course it, in common with the 
Highlands in general, have felt, and do still feel, the loss ; for 
kelp cannot now be sold so as to bring the wages of the workers* 
as the former consumers of kelp prefer, to work from barilla and 
other substances admitted duty free. In previous years, this ma- 
nufacture employed and gave bread to many thousands in the 
Highlands and islands, and the price it drew brought money to 
the country, and this being again circulated through the kingdom 
at large kept that money at home, which now goes to enrich the 
foreigner at the poor Highlander's expense ; a measure of policy 
which cannot be too strongly condemned, — for whether it arose 
from ignorance on the part of Goviernment, or from any other 
cause, the Highlands have, since the admission, duty free, of ba- 
rilla and other substances, presented scenes of much distress, 
bankruptcy, and poverty. 

FuAerm.— To render beneficial to the natives the bounty which 
Providence freely offered them at their doors, the Duke of Ar- 
gyle, about fifty years ago, divided a farm in Ross* convenient for 
^he white fishing, into a number of crofts. His Grace planted fa- 
milies there, and sent people to instruct them in the proper modes 
of curing and fishing. They likewise were provided with boats and 



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310 AROYLESHIRE. 

lines gratis, and had every encouragement and indulgence given. 
But, after every exertion, his Grace's benevolent and patriotic in* 
tentions were frustrated* The fishing answered not the idea en* 
tertained of its success, and, after much money sunk by his Grace, 
it was abandoned ; and those who now follow the pursuit merely^ 
do so as a bye job, and when they cannot otherwise be employed. 
In Lochscridain and Lochlahaich, herring are to be found. 
Lochscridain abounds with herring of the most excellent quality ; 
that of Lochlahaich is not' so good, and no great quantity of them 
to be had at a time ; but the fishing in Lochscridain is in general 
favourable, and, in 184fO, the success met with was very g^reat. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Market" Town. — There is no market-town in the parish. 

Village. — The village of Bonessan contains about 250 souls. 
In this village, there are no less than five merchants or shop-keep* 
ers, who may be termed general dealers. 

Mean$ of Communication. — Arcs, in the parish of Kilninian and 
Kilmore, is the head post-office for this parish ; but there is a 
sub-office at Bonessan, and a receiving-house at Gribuo, and re* 
gular foot-runners convey the mail bags. This parish, therefore^ 
now enjoys the same advantage with any other place in Mull of hav- 
ing three dispatches and three arrivals of the mails weekly, — an ad* 
vantage which it did not enjoy in former years, for the inhabitants 
were then under the necessity of going to Aros, a distance of about 
twenty-four miles from the point of Ross* 

There are no turnpike roads in this parish, or in Mall, nor 
any Government roads, as in Skye and other parts of the High* 
lands. Communication, however, is much facilitated to and from 
the low country by steam-boats, especially in summer and au- 
tumn, when clouds of tourists and visitors come to view Sta£Ea 
and lona. 

Ecclenastieal State.^^There are two churches in the parish- 
one at Bonessan in Ross, and the other at Kilfinichen, both built 
in 1 804, and repaired in 1 828. The former church contains about 
350 sittings, and the latter 300. Public worship is performed on 
two out of every three Sabbaths at Bonessan, on the third at Kil- 
finichen, and once a quarter at Torran, in Brolas, where there 
is no church. There is no manse, but the incumbent receives^ 
and accepts in lieu thereof from the heritors, L.42 annually. Tb* 
glebe has not been measured, but is supposed to contain from se» 



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KILFINICHEN AND KILVICEUfiN. 311 

venty to eighty Scots acres, and its annual value, as land lets in 
Mull, may be about L.15. The stipend is L.180, 10s. (^^d Ster* 
ling. All the parishioners are of the Established Church, with the 
exception of forty, who are Baptists and Indepedents. About two- 
thirds of the gross population are in the habit of attending the 
churches, although difficulty of access prevents many of all ages 
from attending regularly. There are 374 communicants connect'- 
ed with the church of Kilfinichen, and 514 with that at Bonessan. 
The Duke of Argyle is patron of the parish. 

Education. — About fifty years ago, there were only two schools 
in the whole parish, including a charity school at lona. Now 
there are two parochial schools, one with a salary of L.80, and the 
other with a salary of L.2], 6s. 6d. There are besides an As- 
sembly school, two charity schools, two Gaelic schools, and two 
female schools. The schools are well attended, for the people 
are in general much alive to the benefit of education. All the 
male teachers keep Sabbath schools. 

Poor. — The ordinary collections for the poor at both churches, 
ti^faenput t<^ether, may average L.11 annually; this and occasional 
fines for immoralities imposed by the kirk-session are the only 
funds available to the poor. They otherwise depend entirely upon 
the humanity of the people. 

Fatrs.*— There are two fairs held at Bonessan in the year; one 
in the month of May, on the Friday before the May Mull market ; 
and the other in the month of October, on the Friday before the 
Mull market in that month. At both fairs, black-cattle are brought 
for sale. 

i^iie/.— The only fuel in common use is peat, and at times 
heather. The gentlemen and better class of farmers burn coal 
which, in general, comes from the Clyde, and the price varies from 
14s. to 17s. per ton. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

With the exception of the loss which the parish annually sus- 
tains by the discontinuance of the manufacture of kelp, the parish 
does not seem to have undergone much change since the year 
1792, when the former Statistical Account was written. An im- 
provement since then in black-cattle stock and the introduction 
of Cheviot sheep, and of husbandry, by draining and rais- 
ing of green crops, has no doubt taken place. The facilities of 
egress to the low country by steam-boats have been a great ad van- 



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312 ARGTLESHIRB. 

tage; and a considerable trade, in une shape or other, is nowcara* 
ried on between this parish and Glasgow, where the people send 
many articles to be disposed of, and from whence, in return, they 
are supplied in many of their wants. About twenty years ago 
there was only one shopkeeper in Ross ; at present, there are not 
less than five in the small i^illage of Bonessan alone ; besides 
others in the districts of Ross and lona, who sell good& 
There are now at least a dozen of boats trading between this part 
of the country and Glasgow, but most of these are small, open, and 
Yery insufficient, in which goods are frequently injured, and at 
times completely damaged or totally lost. A tolerably sized 
packet or vessel that would go regularly at stated periods, — say 
once a month or six weeks, wich a proper person in charge, would 
benefit not only this parish and lona, but the surrounding district; 
and, from the traffic now carried on, there is every reason to be« 
lieve there would be a sufficiency of employment* 

Ion A 
includes the whole island of that name, and the following five 
farms in the district of Ross, viz. Fidden, Knockvolagan, Po« 
tee, Creich, and Caitchionn. These farms, however, as being in 
the district of Ross, and so included in the description of the quoad 
civilia parish, have been already spoken to. 

Name^ ffc. — This island has received various denominations. 
By Bede, who died in 76*2, it is named Hii or Hy, for the punc- 
tuation of vowels had not then been introduced. In the annaU of 
Ulster, written at a later date, it is put down L Hi, Ice, and Aoi. 
According to Toland, I signifies in Irish an island^ and is often 
written Hii, li, Hu, to avoid making a word of one letter. But 
Hu, Dr Jamieson suspects, must, in the first instance, have been 
merely an inaccuracy, in consequence of the double t being mistaken 
by some transcriber for u. In the Transactions of the Antiquarian 
Society, published in 1792, the Earl of Buchan names it Aemona ; 
and Pennant tells us that lona derives its name from a Hebrew 
word, signifying a dove^ in allusion to the name of Columba; he 
seems to have followed Keith, who, in his Catalogue of the Scots 
Bishops, while treatingof thesee of the Isles says, ^'as the Cathedral 
church of Icolmkill owes its name to a Greek word, so that island it* 
self, called also Hy, Y, lona, lonah, derives that last name from the 
word lonah which, in Hebrew signifies a pigeon; and is so called. 



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KILPINtCHEN AND KILVICBUBN. ^^^ 

Yfom St Colum, the founder of the monastery here, whose Gallic 
or Celtic name CoAcm, and Latin name Cohanba^ are both of the 
same signification, Sanctus Adamnanus Abbas de Hy^ in vita Saneti 
Columb(Bj* Martin gives the etymon of the word Hii, from a tra- 
ditionary account among the natives, that one of Columba's fol-> 
lowers in their voyage thither, having espied the isle at a distance, 
cried joyfully to him in the Irish language, ^^ Chi mi i** — / see her ; 
and that the saint answered, it should from henceforth be called Y. 
Pinkerton calls it Hyona in all parts of his History of Scotland where 
be has occasion to speak of it. Some etymologists say that, as in 
Irish, I-thon signifies the island ofwaves^ which is very characte- 
ristic of it in times of storm, and as the *Hh*' of that word, in pro- 
nouncing it, is not sounded, the monks readily Latinized it lona and 
Hyona. By some of the old Irish and Danish writers, it is called 
the Insula Sancta or Holy Island. In the records of Scotland 
down to the middle of the sixteenth century, and in inscriptions stilt 
to be seen upon the island, and contemporary with that period, it 
is simply called Y or I. It appears to admit of no doubt that its 
ancient Latin name was lona, for it is so termed by Adomnan, the 
most early writer we have concerning it. 

To the Highlanders of the present day, lona is known as ** In- 
nis<rnan-Druidhneach," or the Island of the Druids — as *' li-cholum- 
chille," or the Island of Coluniy of the Cell^ or Cemetery^ from 
whence the English word Icolymkill is derived ; and, par excellence^ 
by I, or the island pronotuiced by the sound o{ ec in English, and 
which is the most general name it goes by, in the parish and sur- 
rounding neighbourhood,^ 

* In Macfarlane's MS., Advocates* Library, there is a description of this island 
by Dean Monro, who travelled through the Western Iftles in 1549. 

** Co'mXriyi.— Narrest this be twa in>les of sea, layes the Isle the Erischecall it 
I. colmkill, that is, Sanct Colni*s Isle, ane faire mayne Ide of twa myle lange, and 
maire and ane myle braid, fertill and fruitfull of corn and store, and guid for fishing. 
Within this ile there is a monastery of Mouokes and ane uther of nuns, with a pa- 
roche kirke, and sundrie other chapells dotat of auld, be the kings of Scotland, and 
be Clandonald of the lyles. Tliis abbay forsaid wes the cathedral! kirk of the Bischops 
of the lyles sen the tyme they were expulsed out of the lyle of Man by the English- 
men ; for within the lyle of Man wes the cathedrall kirke, and living of auld, as I 
have already said in the description of that ile. Wifhin this ile of Colmkill, there 
is ane sanctuary also, or kirkaird, callit in Erische Rcligoram, quhilk is a verey fair 
kirkzairdy and weill biggit about with staine and lyme. Into this sanctuary ther is 
three tombes of staine formit like litle chapels with ane braid gray marble or quhin 
staine in the gavile of ilk ane of the tombes. In the staine of the torab there is writ- 
ten in Litin letters TuAiuius Regum Scotitt^ that is, the tomb ore grave of the Scotta 
kingea. Within this tombe, according to our Scotta and Erische Cronickles, ther 
layes forty-eight crowned Scotta kings, throughe the quhilk this ile hes betne richlie 
dotat be the Scota kiuges, as we have said. The tombe on the south syde foresaid has 



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314 ARGYLESHIKE. 

Extent, jpc.— looa is situated in 56^ 59^ of north latttude^ and 
divided from the Ross of Mull by the Sound of I on its eastern 

this inscription, THtnulu* Hcgum HyhemUt, that is, the Tombeof Ireland Kinges; for 
we have in our auld Eriahe cronickella that there wes four Irland kinges eirdit in 
tbe said tombe. Upon the north syde of our Sootts toinbe, the inseription beares Tu* 
mului Regum Norwegian that is, the Tombe of the Kings of Norrowaj ; in the 
quhilk tombe, as we find in our ancient Erishe Croniekelb, ther lays eight kings of 
Korrowaj ; and als we find in our Erische Cronickells that Coelus, King of Norro- 
way, commandit his uobils to toke his bodey and burey it in Icolmkill, if it chancit 
him to die in the iles. Bot he was so disoomfitit, that ther remained not so manney 
of his armey as wold burey him ther : Therefor be was eirdit in Kyle ai^er he stroke 
ane field against the Scotts, and wes yanquisht be them. Within this sanctuary also 
lies the maist pairt of the Lords of the lies with ther lynage, Tuo clan Lyncs with 
their lynage, M<Kynnon and M'Guare, with ther lineages, with sundrie uthers in- 
habitanu of the hail iles, because this sanctuary wes wont to be the sepulture of the 
best men of all the iles ; and als of our kings as we have said; because it wes tb« 
maist honorable and anciend place that was in Scotland in thair days, as we reid.** 

In the same manuscript, there is another description of lona, but anonymous, 
bearing date 1698, and is as fi^Ilows : 

*^ This lie lyes straucht in lenth to the south south-west two myles in lentb, one 
in breadth, full of litle hillocks, pleasant and healtbfbll, with a store of common me- 
dicinall hearbs naturally growing ; and some monks tiftnsplanted thither from other 
places both esculent and medicinal. The lie is fruitftill, and hes plaine arable ground 
in gnd measure interlyned betwixt the little green hills thereof. The product and 
efaeif oommoditie is barley. Its seveared from the south end of Mull by a narrow 
sound, 8 part of a le^, which makes it verie commodious for fishing, and all water 
and sea foules. This ile hes been famous, first, by Columbus his dwelling there ; 2do, 
by the large and curious church, abbacie, and nunerie founded there* A consider- 
able citie vas in the ile of old, called Sodora, tbe vestiges whereof is yett visible by 
tbe port and streets thereof. It lay in the midst of the ile, upon the east cost, weel 
stored with naturall fonunis in great abundance, great many gardens, yett vi- 
sible, and many chapells, of whose particular uses (state that they served for Divine 
worship) we can give little account. One of these was dedicated to the Saint Oranus, 
oommooly called Gran. It is situate neer the great church and abbacie, vith a par- 
ticular precinct, in which many of our kings, and the kings of Irland and Danemark, 
lyes buried, vith several! other tombs of the heads of clans. Stio, By Columbus 
his buriall there, in a litle chapel be himself, though the Irish alledge be is buried 
with them. Their cradulative ftneie is founded on a verse forged by aome fl a tt e ring 
priest: 

* Hi tres sunt una, tumulo tumulantur in uno 
Brigida, Patricius atque Colomba pius.* 

But I bave seen his life extracted out of the Pope*s Hbrarie, and translated in Irish by « 
priest verbatim as it vas in Latin in the said librarie, shewing he died and vas buried at 
L The priest vas Caal 0*Horan. Ther hes been nurny inscriptions upon the tombs 
and pillars. The most is obliterat. Many curious knotto of mosaick vork yeU to be 
seen, though many is overgrown and covered with earth. The burial-places of the 
nuns is about tlie nunerie. No women is yett toleratt to be buried neer the greet 
church or where the men are buried. This is alledged to be bv CoUumbtu* speeiall 
order. In this ile was a sreat many crosses, to the number of 960, which vas all de- 
stroyed by one provincialT assembly, holden on the place a little after Reformation. 
Ther fundations is yett etant ; and two notable ons, of a considerable height and 
excellent work, untouched. In this iland is marble enouch, whereof the late Earle 
of Argyle caused polish a piece at London, abundantly beautifbll. In a particular 
place of tbe iland, neer the sea, ebbing and flowing thereinto, is found transparent 
stones of all coUoura, but more ordinarily green, much resembling agatts. They 
yeild to the file and toole, and I have severall sadls of them. In this ile vas a socio- 
tie of the Druids when Columbus came there; but it seems they were non of tbe 
beat, for he banished them aU. Here is yett a few people upon the ile called OstlarQ, 
fW>m their office al^ut the temple, who is observed never to exceed 8 in number, 
which is said to be fortold by Columbus to be their judgenoent for some atrO- 



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KILPINICHBN AND KILVICEUEN. ' 315 

coast. This sound is about half a-mile broad, and has already 
been spoken of, in regard to its navigation. On all other sides, lona 
is washed by the Atlantic The island is about three miles in 
extreme length, by one and a-half in breadth, and may contain a 
super6cial area of 2000 imperial acres. Dr Walker guessed its 
superficies at 3840 English statute acres; but this seems evidently 
a mistake. Of its supposed number of 2000 imperial acres, 600 
are in occasional cultivation, the remainder being hill pasture^ 
morass, or rocks. The surface is unequal, rising into eminences 
or small hills; but the most elevated part, called Dun-ii, does not 
exceed 400 feet above the level of the sea ; and the boldest shore 
lies upon the south-west side. The ridges of these hills run in the 
direction of the length of the island, and shoot out at its extremities 

ctous fault committed by their progeniter. The registers and records of this ile was 
all written on parchmen, but all destroyed by that assembly that destroyed the 



Immediately following that description in the foresaid manuscript, is one by John 
Fraser, Dean of the Isles,— the same Praser who, in 1688, gave SacfaevereU, Governof 
of Mann, yariouA particulars regarding lona when the Governor, in that year, Tisited 
the idand. The paper in the manuscript is thus described : *^ Ane Answer to Sir 
Robert Syball^ Queries for the lyls of Tirry, Ounna, Co)le,and Icolmkill, all lying 
within the Sherydome of Ar^ll and the Bishopwrick of the Ivlls ; marked on the 
back, ' A Description of Tyrie, Gonna, CoUa, and Icolmkill,' given into me by the 
Bishop of the Isles.** 

After describing the islands of Tir^, Gunna, and Coll, Fraaer proceeds thus with 
lona: 

'< Icdllumkill, antiently called lona, layes from Colle to the soutb and south-east 
about 86 mailas of sea, and is distant from the south end of Mull about 1 maill of 
ses. It is 2 miles in lenth, and almost from east to west ; and 1 mile in breadth. It 
is very fertile ; commodious for fishing and fowling. It has two firesb- water lochs; 
guid springs and medicinal herbs. Here the sea casteth up in ane place a number 
of smidl stones of divers oollours and transparente, verij fair to looke upon. They 
realy are peculiar to the place, for the longer they lay upon the shoar, they reapen 
and turns more lively in their ooulors. Tney yield to the file, and admits of gouid 
polishing and engraving. Marble also of divers ooUours and with beautyfull vaina 
IS found in this i^nd. It has bein counted renouned, pairtly for the gouid discipline 
of Columbus, who is buried in it, and partly for tlie monuments of the place. In it 
is two monastrves, one of monks, another of nans ; a church of conaiderable dimen- 
sions, dedicated to Columbus. This has been the oathedrall of the Bishops of the 
Ills since Sodora in the III of Man came into the Inglisbe*s hands. In this illand 
are many other small chapells. The vestiges of a citie is sit Tisible in it, which, as 
sum old manuscript testi6es^ was called Sodora. Many of the kings of ScoUand, 
some of the kings of Irland and Noroway was buryit beer. Many tombs, appropriat 
to the families of the Ulanders, as their inscriptions, though now almost obliterate, do 
testify. Heer the famous Columbus himself was also interred. The coast round 
about lona is very bade, full of rocks and violent tyds. The whole lUand is church- 
land; so Is also a gouid part of Tyrie, the ile of Gonna wholly, and the two ends of 
CoUe. It is remarkable that there is in lona a fow people called to this day Ostiar\}, 
from their office about the church in Columbus* tyme. This people never exceeds 
the number of 8 persons in perfyte age. This is found to had true ; and there is a 
tradition, that, for some miscarriage of their predecessors in Collumbus* tyme, this 
malediction was led tbefti. The inhabitants of all the said illands is naturallv dvill 
and boontifull, right capable of all gouid instructions. All thir illands has bem po*- 
1 be M^Leane and the oadette of his family.*' 



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3l^ AUGTLE8HIRB* 

into many small rocky heads, which form a number of rugged IH'^ 
accessible creeks. The coast, however, along the two sides of the 
island, lies more in a straight line, and forms in most places a low 
sandy beach ; and, where it is interrupted with rock, the rocks do 
not shoot out into the sea, as at the extremities of the island, but 
run along shore. 

Harbours. — lona cannot boast of the hospitality of its shores^ 
or of anything done by nature or art to facilitate foreign inter* 
course with it. Properly speaking, there is no harbour belonging 
to the island ; but, in a small sandy bay below the ancient abbey, 
anchorage ground in five-fathoms water, within two cable-lengths 
of the shore, is to be found. There i«< another landing place for 
boats, but a very dangerous one, except in good weather, upon the 
south*west part of the island. This is a creek lined with perpen- 
dicular rocks of serpentine marble, and exposed to the western 
swell of the Atlantic ; it is called Port-na-Curaehj or the harbour 
of the boat, by way of distinction, it being here that Saint Columba 
landed, when he arrived from Ireland. The word cicrach signifies 
that sort of boat which the ancient Irish and Caledonians con- 
structed with ribs of wood and covered with hides, and which is 
to be seen on some of the rivers of Wales, at the present day. Oa 
one side of this harbour, is an oblong heap of earth, the supposed 
size of Columba's curach, presenting the form of a boat with the 
keel up.* 

A vast tract near this harbour is covered with heaps of stoneti 
of unequal sizes, and these, it is said, were the penances of monks, 
who were to raise heaps, of dimensions equal to their crimes; '* and 
to judge by some of these heaps,'' Pennant says, ^^ it is no breach 
of charity to think, there were among them enormous sinners." 

Climate. — Sheltered by the island of Mull from the cold east- 
erly winds, and surrounded by the ocean, lona enjoys a very tem- 
perate climate, remote from the extremes of heat and cold. It is 
seldom that, in winter, the freezing degree takes place ; and if 

* In Uie Wodrow MS., Advocates* Library, under date 1701, the foUowing appears 
relative to this: ** In I Callimkill (alias Ionia) there is a harbour, a mile distant* 
westward from the btdldino of the place, where stones msy be found, as clear many 
of them as some glasses. This harbour is called Pori-a-churrich^ from the ship that 
« Calimkill and his associats came upon from Ireland to that place. The length of 
this curaclian or ship i» obvious to any who goes to the place, it being marked up aft 
the head of the harbour upon the grass, between two little pillars of stoos, set up to 
show forth ye samain, between which pilUrs there is three score of foots in length, 
which was the exact length uf the curachan or ship." 



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KILFINICHEN AND KILYICEUEN. 317 

there happens to be a little snow, it is by the lownesa of the land, 
the warmth of the sea and of the sandy soil, quickly dissolved 
There is, however, a great dealof broken weather, even in the midst 
of summer. On the whole, the mildness of the climate is more 
evident in winter than in summer ; but such is the heat of the 
summer and the warm nature of the soil, that lona produces more 
early crops than most parts of Great Britain ; for although the 
inhabitants do not conclude their barley-sowing until after the 
middle of June, they have harvest in August.* 

Springs. — The island is supplied in abundance with the finest 
springs. They are very small; yet a number of them collected 
form a rivulet that runs past the ruins of the ancient nunnery* 
There is no lake of any consequence ; but on a plain adjoining 
the gardens of the abbey, and surrounded by small hills, there ard 
vestiges of a large piece of artificial water, which has consisted of 
several acres, and been contrived both for pleasure and utility. 
Its banks have been formed by art into walks, and though now a 
morass, the remains are to be seen of a broad green terrace passing 
through the middle of it, which has been raised considerably abovo 
the water. At the place where it had been dammed up, and where 
there are the marks of a sluice, the ruins of a mill are still to be 
seen^ which served the inhabitants for grinding their com. 

Mineralogy. — Dr Garnet remarks, that the greater part of lona 
is formed of limestone, and that the strata are all of secondary 
formation. Jameson is not inclined to be of that opinion ; and the 
investigations and experiments made by him bear him out in this. 
Jameson is also supported in his views by Professor Walker's obr 
iservations. The rocks opposite Ross appear to be composed of 
quartz pretty intimately combined with chlorite and hornblende. 
It is, however, subject to much variety ; passing, on the one hand, 
to hornblende rock and clay slate ; and, on the other, into a silice* 
ous talcaceous slate. The rocks are traversed by veins of the 
Granites yarbenbergensis of Linnceus. These strata continue to 

* Adomnan, in his Vit. Columb. Lib. ii. cap. 2, relates, that Columba having 
ordered a quantity of barley to be giTen to some penon, in compensation for a damage 
which be had sustained, desired him at the same time to sow it, though it was then 
about midflummer» assuring him, contrary to his expectation, that he would* the same 
aeaeon, reap a plentiful harvest. In obedience to this mandate, the man committed 
the seed to the ground on the 12th of June (which now answers to our 24tb of that 
month,) and he reaped a crop from it in the beginning of August. Although this 
fiu^t ia regarded by Adomnan with admiration, and recorded by him 9M one of Co« 
lumba'a miracles, yet it is not surprising that it hi^spened in lona, considering the 
nature of its climate and soil. 



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318 AEOTLESHIRR. 

the Dorth-east extremity of the islandy when they give place (o 
itornblende slate^ sieoitei and horobleode rock^ having much the 
appearance of serpentine. These rocks alternate with each other, 
and are to be observed traversed by basalt and granite veins. To- 
wards Dun-ii, the hornblende and sienite strata continue forming) 
upon some parts of the coast, cliffs of considerable height. This 
hill is composed of primitive rock, and principally of hornblende 
slate. 

Marble Quarry* — Fine white marble, of that species now called 
dolomite, semi-pellucid when reduced to a thin plate, exists in 
strata of about forty feet wide, running N. N. W. and S. S. E., 
and bounded by nearly vertical strata of a rock which, in some 
parts, is of the nature of talc, or passing to chlorite slate. 
This marble, as it approaches the other strata, is more or 
less mixed with talc, which causes it to become scaly or fibrous^ 
with a yellowish-green colour, thus assimilating with talcaceous 
alate. This marble cuts f^ly, receives a good polish, and» 
except for the loss of colour, which is converted into a yellowish 
cast, resists the action of time. The quarry was opened about 
fifty years ago, under the Duke of Argyle's patronage, and a con* 
aiderable quantity of marble quarried and sent to Leith and Lon- 
don ; but after much money laid out, the working of it was abao- 
doned and never afterwards resumed. 

There are extensive rocks of sienite on the south-west sbore» 
which afford blocks of any dimensions of vivid colour, extreme^ 
-ly hard and susceptible of a high polish. Of this substance 
dl the remnants of antiquity upon the island are constructed* 
Rocks of beautiful serpentine also stretch along the southern ex* 
tremity of considerable hardness, an agreeable green clouded with 
other colours, and suitable for slabs or sculptures. Its quality has 
been compared to that of the ancient serpentine, but although mas* 
ses of large dimensions might be procured, it would not be without 
much labour on account of the solidity of the rocks. In Port-na»cu- 
rach, there are cliffs of considerable height, composed of horn- 
blende rock, having much the appearance of serpentine and sienite ; 
here there are found nodules of nephriticus from the size of a pea to 
that of an apple ; these are of a green colour, of a smooth soft ap* 
pearance whenpolished, and they aremade up into trinketsof various 
kinds. Many are worn as amulets, sometimes set in silver. The 
children of the island collect and dispose of them to the nume* 



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KILFINICHEN AND KILVICBUEN. 319 

rous strangers and tourists whom the steam-boats bring to lona, 
and who readily give a penny or twopence to the little urchins 
for a handful of them as remembrances of their visit. The shore 
is otherwise bare and rugged, and the strata do not differ from 
those already described. At a short distance, there are several 
islets and recks entirely composed of red granite, which circum- 
stance renders it probable that the island was formerly joined with 
the granite coast of Ross Mull 

SaiL — A light sandy soil, but very fertile, prevails over the whole 
island, except where cultivation and abundance of manure have 
converted it into a black loam. Upon the shores, there are some 
small plains exceedingly pleasant, that afford good crops of bear 
and oats. The hills are covered in spring, summer, and autumn 
with a fine verdure, and their pasture is famed over all the dis- 
trict Some of the hills are arable to the top, but those on the 
south eiid of the island are overrun with heath ; yet the small 
valleys interspersed among them, are filled with grass of the finest 
({tiality. 

Zoology and Botany. — For the former, reference is made to the 
description given previously in the quoad civilia parish, which is 
quite applicable to lona ; and as to the latter,— on the north 
shore, between Port-na-curach and the hill of Angels, is found in 
great plenty the Fulmonaria maritimaf or sea bugloss, a beauti- 
ful plant, the blossoms of which are pink before they expand, but 
immediately change into a fine blue : the Eryngium maritimumf 
or sea holly, occurs here in equal abundance ; and the fatal Bella^ 
donna is also to be found. Among the ruins in almost every part, 
both of the nunnery and cathedral, grows the Cotyledon umbilicuSf 
or navel- wort ; the Menyanthes trifoliatum^ or marsh trefoil, one 
of the most beautiful of our native flowers, and distinguished by 
its woolly petals, grows in great plenty in the pond above the ca« 
thedral. A considerable part of the skirts of Dun-ii is covered with 
the JnagalKs tenetta^ or purple-flowered money-wort. The JunU 
penu communis^ or juniper tree, is common on most of the hills, 
though of a dwarfish size. The Salix lapponunif or Lapland wil- 
low, a very scarce shrub, grows not far from the marble quarry. 
Small quantities of a fine kind of sponge are produced here, and 
some rare shells are cast up on the shore. Several Fuci of rare 
species are found in the surrounding sea. 

There are no trees nor plantations of any kind in the island. 



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S20 AR6YLE8HIRB. 

11. — Civil. HlSTOKY. 

It is said that the Druids had possession of lona before the birth 
of our Saviour, — that they had there a college or school of theolo- 
gy, and continued to flourish until their expulsion by Columba* 

The most authentic history of Columba is that written by 
Adomnan, who was preceptor to Eugenius VI., and was likewise 
Abbot of lona in 665, being the fourth abbot in succession from 
Columba, and that only sixty-seven years after his death. His 
history was first published by Canisius from a manuscript pre- 
served in a monastery in Bavaria, and since republished by Bas- 
hage. He is likewise mentioned by Bede, and allowed to be au- 
thentic by Usher. 

Columba was certainly a man of much piety and goodness of 
heart ; and his ms^nners, although austere, were well calculated 
for the people of the age in which he lived. He had been the 
disciple of St Patrick ; was of royal extraction, being the son of 
Felim, the son of Fergus, who was grandson to the celebrated 
Niall of the nine hostages, supreme monarch of Ireland. His 
mother was Aithne, the daughter of Macnave, and he was nearly 
related to Conal, King of the Dalriad Scots, who, by some, is 
styled the fifth King of Argyle. From this, and from the autho- 
rity of his character, he possessed great power and influence in 
both kingdoms. He was bom in Ireland in 521, and educated 
under Finian, Bishop of Clonard, Fenbar, Gemman of Leinster, 
and the far-famed St Ciaran ; and, when he was about twenty- 
eight years of age, he founded the monastery of Dairmeagh, ia 
Ireland. 

This remarkable man, in the forty-second year of his age, left 
Ireland in or about the year 563, with the noble and generous 
intention of dissipating the ignorance which then covered the He- 
brides, and was accompanied by twelve followers, whose oanaes 
are given by various authors. 

According to the annals of Ulster and of Tighemac, lona was 
given to Columba by Conal, or Conval, son of Comgaly King of 
the Dalriad Scots or Picts. But there ought to be some very 
powerful reason for rejecting the express testimony of Bede^ who 
was so well versed in the history of this monastery, especially as 
Adomnan nowhere asserts that this island was the gift of the DaU 
riadic Prince. Dr Jamieson, however, supposes, that, as it lay 
in the confines of both kingdoms, it might possibly be claimed by 
both ; and what the one sovereign had given, the other might 
pretend to confirm. 

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KILFINICHEN AND KII.VICEUEN. 821 

Coiumba and his companions made first the Island of Oronsay» 
and thereafter arri?ed at lona upon the eve of Pentecost.* The 
distinguished sanctity of his manners, in so remote an age, would 
necessarily be corroborated by the imputation of. miraculous power. 
Kings listened with reverence to his admonitions ; armies, when 
r^ady to engage, stopped at his command ; and he maintained not 
only much influence in the councils of the kingdom where he 
lived, but among the Irish and Saxons.f As his worth and fame 
increased, his institution accordingly became richly endowed ; 
and the poor huts and church of slight materials gave place to 
ediflces of more durable composition. It soon became the first, 
as it was for several ages, the only university in Great Britain ; 
and so much famed was it for the philosophy and theology of the 
times, and for the severe manners and discipline of its founder, 
which were long kept up, that it became a general place of 
education, not only for the Scots, but for the British and Irish 
churches. :|; 

Soon after his settlement in lona, he made a journey into the 
Pictish territories, being some parts of Invern^ess-shire, and preach- 
ed to them the gospel, to which they had hitherto been entire 
strangers. Adomnan calls them gentiles barbaric barbarian hea- 
thens, but that upon seeing Columba's works, they glorified the 
God of the Christians.- He likewise observes that Coiumba preach- 

* They laboured during two years erecting ^huts and a church of very slight ma- 
terials. For several yeais af^er his settlement here he would suffer no females to re- 
side on the island, and so great was his caution that be even prohibited cattle, and 
would not allow a cow to be kept, for, according to his syllogutic adage, *' where 
there is a cow there must be a woman ; and where there is a woman there must be 
mischief." Martin says, ** that all the tradesmen who wrought in it were obliged to 
keep their wives and daughters in the opposite little isle, called on that account Wo- 
men's Isle.*' 

* t He is the first on record who bad the &culty of second-sight, for he is said to 
^ve told the victory of Aidan over the PicU and Saxons on the very instant it hap- 
pened. 

X When Coiumba first attempted to build on lona, the walls, it is said, by the ope- 
ration of some evil spirit, fell down as fast as they were erected. Coiumba received 
supernatural information that they would never stand unless a human victim was 
buried alive. According to one account, the lot fell on Oran, the companion of the 
saint, as the victim that was demanded for the success of the undertaking. Others 
pretend that Oran voluntarily devoted himself, and was interred accordingly. At 
the end of three days Coiumba had the curiosity to take a farewell look at his old 
friend, and caused the earth to be removed. Oran raised his swimming eyes, and 
■aid, ** There is no wonder in death, and beU is not as it is reported." The saint 
was so shocked at this impiety that he instantly ordered the earth to be flung in again, 
uttering the words, Uir ! uir I air beal Orain ma*n labbair e tui)e oomh'raidb,'* that 
is. Earth ! earth I on the mouth of Oran that he may blab no more. Tbu passed 
into a proverb, and is in use in the Highlands at the present day. 

It is not improbable but this story was invented by some of Columba's Druidioal 
enemies, in order to expose him and the Chrutian doctrine to ridicule ; especially as 
the savage rite imputed to him was only practised by the heathens. 
ARGYLE. X 



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322 ARGYLESHIKC. 

ed to tbem by an interpreter, which is a ourioas fact with respect 
to the dubious origin of that memorable people. It u^es their 
language to have been different from the ancient British, which 
was the language of Columba, and they themselves of some other 
original. Usher supposes the Picts and Caledonians to have been 
the same people. Cambden, and other great antiquaries of the 
present, as well as of former times, consider the Picts only as the 
remote part of the uncivilized, unreduced Britons ; but Bishop 
Stillingfleet seems rather to be (according to Dr Walker) better 
founded in thinking them a separate nation. 

All the inhabitants of Scotland are said to have been converted 
during the life of Columba ; and, according to Spottiswoode, hm 
founded 100 monasteries and 365 churches, and ordanedSOOO 
priests or monks. This is asserted by Jocelin and other writers. 
It is certain that the greatest respect was paid to him at the Na* 
tional Council or Parliament of Drumceat, iu Ireland, where he 
appeared as the representative of the clergy of North Britain. 

Aidanus, the lineal heir of the Crown of Scotland, was brought 
out of Ireland by Columba, in the reign of Kinatellus, at whose 
death he was by Columba installed King of Scots in the Island 
of lona. Full of years and of honour, this great man died in 
lona upon Sabbath night, on the fifth day of the Ides of June 
596, in the thirty* fifth year of his ministry, and seventy-sixth of 
his age, and was there buried. Here, too, are buried the remains 
of forty-eight Scottish kings, four _kings of Ireland, eight Nor- 
wegian kings, and one king of France ; most of the Lords of the 
Isles and other chieftains of note ; so that a sepulchre in it be- 
came generally coveted by the great families in Scotland, and the 
grandees of Norway and Ireland. lona being thus viewed as con* 
secrated ground, it became as one vast cemetery, to which the 
Illustrious characters of ancient times were carried for inhumatioD 
by their own desire, or the pious wish of surviving relatives,* 

Among the honours bestowed by the kings of Scotland on lona, 

* This preference given to lona, fli a place of Royal sepulture, may W aofKmntcd 
for generally by its early reputation for sanctity, and to an ancient Gaelic prophecy^ 
vbicb has been translated and paraphrased by Ur Smith of CainpbeUoo> thus«~. 



Seven years before that awful day> 

When time shall be no more, 
A watery deluge will o^ersweep 

Hibernia*s mossy shore. 
The green clad Isia, too, shall sink ; 

While, with the sreat and goods 
Coluinba*s hai>py i^e will rear 

Her towers above the fiood. 



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KILPINICHBH AND KILVICBUEN. 323 

we EDd the origin of a custom which has continued in other places 
ever since, namely, the dedication of the trophies of war ^ orna- 
ments, though Tory strange ones surely to Christian churches. 
After the signal victory which Aidanus, installed by Columba be* 
fore-mentioned, gained over the Picts and Scots, he sent the ban- 
ners of hb vanquished enemies to Columba, to be preserved in 
his abbey ; the Victory obtained by Aidanus being at the time en- 
tirely ascribed to the prayers of Columba. Kenneth Macalpine, 
also, after the 6nal overthrow of the Picts, devoted the sword and 
armour of Dunstrenus, the Pictish monarch, to the church of lona. 

In 632, Oswald, King of Northumberland, applied here for a 
bishop who might teach the Northumbrians Christianity, and he 
received a monk from the establishment, who was followed from 
it by several others. In the year 765, Neil Prasacb, King of 
Ireland, abdicated his sovereignty and retired to lona, where he 
died ; and, in 777, we read that Asglal, the son of Cutald, King 
of Connaught, became a monk of lona, where he died also ; and 
that Aulaf, King of Dublin, died during a pilgrimage to this island 
in 980« Here, too, the young princes of Scotland and North- 
umberland were sent to obtain the necessary rudiments of educa* 
tion ; and the island received frequent visits from the neighbouring 
potentates of ancient times. 

For several centuries, the inhabitants of the monastery continued 
under the absolute authority of their provost or abbot, exclusive 
of any other ; not subjected to vows, but governed alone by the 
laws of Columba. This code of laws was denominated BiaghaiU 
liy that is, the Role of lona, composed by him, and founded upon 
the government and discipline of the apostolic churches. During 
this period, they were what is called Culdees ; and all accounts 
agree in their being renowned for their learning, their high con- 
templative piety, and austerity of life. When afterwards the 
Papal power was established in lona, a great alteration took place ; 
and monachism having found its way there and into the rest of 
Scotland, they became an abbey of Benedictines, which was of 
the most baneful consequence both to their learning and virtue. 
The doctrine of the Culdees, so far as we may judge from that 
of Columba, was at least comparatively pure. As ho was himself 
given much to the study of the Holy Scriptures, he taught his 
disciples to confirm their doctrines by testimonies brought from 
tbid unpolluted fountam, and declared that only to be the divine 



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324 ARGYLESHIRE. 

counsel which he found there. His followers, as we learn from 
Bede, would receive those things only which are contained in the 
writings of the prophets, evangelists, and apostles, diligently ob- 
serving the works of piety and purity. Hence it has been said 
that, ^' for several generations, with the errors which at that time 
prevailed in the Church of Rome, they seem not to have been in 
the least tainted." Vide Smith's Life of Columba, p. 114. After 
the example of the fathers, Bede says they lived by the labour of 
their hands, and, after the usage of the eastern churches, had 
wives ; and^ so far were they from reckoning the connubial relation 
inconsistent with their character, that it seems to have been held 
in honour. 

In each college of the Culdees, there were twelve brethren, and 
one who was their provost or abbot, and they chose their abbot or 
president from themselves. 

Among the many extensive privileges granted to the abbey of 
lona, the jurisdiction of its abbot was remarkable. Bede says, 
that in his time lona had a sort of supreme government over all 
the other monasteries in Britain and Ireland, which had been pro- 
pagated from that seminary. And though never more than a pres* - 
bytery had, notwithstanding a jurisdiction of the whole province, 
to which even the Bishops themselves were subjected after an un- 
usual order, ^^ of dine inusitato^^'* as he expresses it. 

The northern pirates were accustomed to ravage the island, 
and commit many cruelties on the defenceless monks. By them 
the monastery was burned in 797 ; and in 801 they killed sixty- 
eight of the ecclesiastics. Besides other calamities, it was rifled 
in 985, and the abbot, together with fifteen of bis learned asso- 
ciates, put to death. Tighernac writes, that the monks of lona 
were expelled beyond Drumalbin, by Nectan, King of the Picts, 
in 716 or 718 ; and in 1069, the monastery was destroyed by fire* 
Historians relate that Magnus Nudipes, the Norwegian conque- 
ror of the Hebrides, notwithstanding all the cruelties of his incur- 
sions in the year 1098» moved by the reputed sanctity of the place, 
spared lona and its inhabitants from the devastations that, in all 
other parts, attended his progress. Yet it was afterwards plun- 
dered by a fleet of twelve sail of Norwegian pirates, which com- 
' mitted many depredations in the Hebrides. 

Between the years 1172 and 1180, William the Lion (its im- 
portance then probably declining) took away a number of churches 



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KILFINICHEN AND KiLViCEUEN. 825 

nx\d chapels in Galloway, with large estates annexed, and granted 
them to the canons of Holyrood House.* 

The first Papal Legate visited Scotland iu 1126; but it does 
not appear that any material change in the institution of lona 
took place until 1203, down to which period there continued to be 
monks and abbots. But in that year Ceallach built in lona a 
monastery, " in opposition to the learned of the place,** which was 
afterwards demolished and suppressed by a synod of the Irish 
clergy. 

The power and influence of lona appears to have declined after 
the last Danish invasion, when the island came under the domi^ 
nion of these conquerors ; and this event must have been accele* 
rated by the loss of its extensive revenues in Galloway, which were 
taken away and granted to the canons of Holyrood House, as be- 
fore noticed. 

During the time of the Norwegian reign, which lasted near 
two hundred years, the bishops were chosen without respect to 
country, for we find French, Norwegian, English, and Scotch 
among the prelates. After the cession of the Hebrides by Mag- 
nus to Scotland, the patronage of the Bishoprick of lona was, ac- 
cording to Sir David Dalrymple's Annals, reserved by treaty to 
the Archbishop of Drontheim. 

While the Hebrides were under the Norwegian domination, 
they divided these islands into two districts, called Nordureys and 
Sudereys, the first embracing all the islands to the north, and the 
other all those which lie to the south of the promontory of Ard- 
namurchan.* But the whole two divisions of islands belonged to 
the diocese of the Bishop of Ebude, and his cathedral and resi- 
dence being in the Island of Man, one of the Sudereys, he was 
from thence styled Episcopus Sodorensis ; hence the origin of the 
title Sodor ; and when the Isle of Man was, in the reign of Ed- 
ward L of England, reduced under the English Government, the 
bishoprick of Sodor was preserved, but its limits being circum- 
scribed to that single island, its bishops assumed and bore the 
united title of Sodor and Man. All the other Western Islands 
remaining under the Government of Scotland, were then erected 
into a separate diocese, called the Bishoprick of the Isles. The 

* If apace permitted, xre might here give excerpts from the Irish annaJs of 
Tighernae, Innisfallen, Buellan, and Ulster, relative to lona^ commencing with the 
birth of Columba, and ending with the twelfth century. 



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836 ARGYLESHIRE. 

bishops usually resided in lona, and the great church belonging to 
the abbey served as the cathedral of the diocese. There has 
been great diversity of opinion concerning the ancient Sodor from 
which the bishops of the Isle of Man still derive their title, some 
supposing that it was the name of a town there so late as the fif* 
teenth century, and others that the town in lona was the ancient 
Sodon It is now generally conceded that the foregoing account 
is correct, according to Torffaeus, the Danish historian, and n^ 
plained by Dr Macpherson. 

In the year 1507, John, Bishop of the Isles, and who was a 
privy-councillor to King James IV., obtained the annexation of 
the abbey of lona to his see. 

We now come down to the Reformation. In 1561, the Con^f 
ventiou of Estates passed an act, at the desire of the Church, 
** for demolishing all the abbeys of monks and fnars, and for sup- 
pressing whatsoever monuments of idolatrie were remaining in the 
realm,*' the e^iecution whereof in the west was committed to the 
Earls of Arran, Argyle, and Glencairn. The learning of ages 
which had been treasured up in lona, the records of nations, and 
the valuable archives of remote antiquity, which had been safe there 
under the fury of barbarians, now fell at once a sacrifice. Author 
rized by this, and by an ill-judged decree of the synod of Argyle, 
the zealous mob fell upon lona, as the most valuable and venerat- 
ed seat of the Popish clergy, and nothing escaped destruction, but 
such parts of the building and such solid monuments as were proof 
against the hands of rage. Of three hundred and sixty croeaea 
said to have been standing, only three were left. •Some were 
thrown into the sea, many carried away, and to this day some are 
to be seen as gravestones in every churchyard in Mull and the 
surrounding islands. Pennant says, that the cross at Campbleton 
was transported there from lona. Spottiswoode writes^ that ^* the 
very sepulchres of the dead were not spared, but digged, ript up, 
and sacrilegiously violated. Bibliothecks were destroyed, the volumes 
of the fathers, counsells, and other books of human learning, 
with the registers of the church, cast into the streets, afterwards 
gathered in heaps and consumed with fire.*'* 

* Not a little bat been written with respect to the library at lona. Penaaat lays, 
the public was greatly ioterested in the presenration of the buildings at lona^ being 
tbe repository of most of the ancient Scotch records ; and that the library must 
haTe been inTahiable. According to Bselhius, Fergus II, assisting Alario tbe Goth 
in the sacking of Rone, brought away, as share of the plunder, a chest of books, 
wbich he presented to tbe monastery of lona. And Acneaa Sylvias (afterwards 



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KILFINIOHEM AND KILVICEUEN. 827 

- Torffnus says that in the year 1210, a squadron of piratical 
ships to the number of twelve, under Birkibein and Bagli, taking 
advantage of the intestine divisions of the Princes of the Hebri* 
des committed many depredations, and plundered the Holy Island, 
or that of St Columba* 

Bishop Nicolson, speaking of the library at lona, says, ^< our 
King Edward the First, having claimed the sovereignty of Scot- 
land, made a most miserable havock of the histories and laws of 
that kingdom, hoping that in a short time nothing should be found 
in all that country but what carried an English name and face;'' 
and, according to the bishop's mode of enumeration, " the second 
great loss of the Scottish records happened upon the mighty turn 
of the Reformation ; when the monks, flying to Rome, carried 
with them the register books, and other ancient treasures of their 
respective mon«isteries.'' 

Pope Pius II.) intended, when he was in Scotland, to have visited the lona library 
in search of the lost books of Livy, but was prevented by the death of King James I. 
And farther, a small parcel of them were, in I52a, brought to Aberdeen and 
great pains taken to unfold them, but through age and the tenderness of the parch, 
ment, little could be read ; however, from what the learned were able to make out, 
the work appeared by the style to have rather been a fragment of Sallust than of 
Livy. 

Dr Jamieeon doubu this statement of BcHhius :— the Doctor writes, ^< Fergus must 
have made his donation to the monastery of lona about 160 years before the founda- 
tion ttooe of it was laid. For Boece says that Alaric sacked Rome ▲. Dw 412. Now 
Columba did not land in lona till the year 563 or, as some say, 565. 

While Archbishop Usher scouts the idea of their being brought from Rome by 
Fergus^ be admits the narrative of Bceoe oa fiir as it regards the fragments ; and 
Gibbon in his Decline and Fall, has no hesitation in saying that lona was distin- 
guished by a classic library which afforded some hope of an entire Livy.** Abdom- 
oan tells us that Columba spent much of his time in writing, that he employed his 
disciples in the same manner, and was at pains that they should transcribe with the 
createst accuracy ; and Dr Smith, speaking of his successors, says, how well they stu* 
died the languages appears from the excellent Latin of Cumin and of Adomnan, who 
discovers also his knowledge of Greek and Hebrew, and wrote a Geography of the 
Holy Land $ and this work Bede not only ascribes to Adomnan, but highly com- 
mends. Many works both in Latin and Irish are said to have been written by Co- 
lumba himself and among these the life of the patron saint of Ireland. Colunnbals 
life was also written in Irisfa-metre» by Baithen his cousin, disciple, and successor. 
To Abbot Cumin several writings are ascribed, besides bis life of Columba. Of all 
these, together with the writings of Adomnan and other abbots who succeeded him, 
there is every reason to believe that copies would be carefully preserved in the mo- 
nastery ; and men who were so much devoted to writing would strain every nerve 
to increase the number of their books. Dr Jamieson, therefore, asks '* what* then, baa 
become of this library? How can it be accounted for that it should entirely disap- 
pear ?" The learned and acute Doctor answers this by ascribing it to the inroads of 
the Danes, which were so frequent and fktal ; they burned the monastery in 797 ; a 
second time in 801 ; and in 1069 it was asain destroyed by fire ; in 805, the pirates 
of the same nation destroyed sixty>dght of the family of lona ; and in 985 they rifl* 
ed the monastery, killing the abbot and fifteen of his disciples. According to the in- 
formation of Pennant, it would appear that while the Norwegian princes were sove- 
reigns, they might judge it proper to carry some of the more valuable MSS to a 
place of security in their own country, for he says, ^* I am informed that numbers of 
the records of the Hebrides were preserved at Drontheim, till they were destroyed by 
the- great fire which happened in that city.** 



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828 ARGYLE8H1RE. 

Tradition says that, at the visitation of the synod of Argyle be- 
fore referred to^ the monks and inmates of lona made their escape 
the best way they could, carrying with them the most precious and 
portable relics, MSS. and chartularies, which were deposited to 
the colleges of Douay and Ratisbon. From the opinions of Scots- 
men resident or trained at the Scottish colleges on the continent^ 
it would appear that there is far less ground for this assertion than 
has been generally imagined, and Dr Jamieson is inclined to 
think that, ^Mf an accurate search were made by such travellers as 
really possessed a literary character, and took an interest in the 
ancient history of our country, more, perhaps, might be discover- 
ed among the treasures of the Vatican than anywhere else/' 

In the last Statistical Account, the writer says, *' that some of 
the MSS. were carried to Inverary, and that a Duke of Montague 
found some of them in the shops there, used as snuff-paper. If 
any of them were in the library of the family of Argyle, the per- 
secution that family underwent in the time of Charles II. accounts 
for none being there now." What is here said receives consider- 
able support from a circumstance mentioned by Governor Sache- 
verell, who visited lona in 1688, in relation to a book which had 
certainly been brought from lona, " The Dean of the Isles, Mr 
John Fraser, an honest Episcopal minister, told me his father who 
had been Dean of the Isles, left him a book with above 300 inscrip- 
tions, (taken from the monuments of lona,) which he had lent 
to the Earl of Argyle, a man of incomparable sense and great 
curiosity, and doubts they are all lost by that great man's aflSic- 
tions." 

In this monastery, particular attention seems to have been paid 
to the science of medicine. " The Olla Ileach, and Ola Mui- 
leach," says Dr Smith, " the ancient and famous line of physi- 
cians in lay and Mull, must, no doubt, have derived their first 
knowledge from this seminary." Dr Smith received from Major 
Maclachlan of the Island of Luing, a MS. in the Irish character 
and language, on the subject of medicine and surgery, which he 
thinks was written by some of the learned men of lona. 

Mr MacNicol says, ^^ of what has been written at lona," there 
is a translation of St Augustine De civitate Dei^ and a treatise on 
Physic. This last is to be seen in the Advocates' Library. A full 
account of this manuscript is given by Dr Jamieson, who mentions 
that this folio bears the following mark of property, '* Leabhar 
GioUa Coluiui Meigbeathadh," and also ^^ Liber Malcolmi Be-* 



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K1L1?1N1CHKN AND kiLVlCEDEN. 829 

» 
tfaune,'' showing that the MS. was once the property of one of 

these Betons of Pennycross, the celebrated physicians formerly 

mentioned. The MS. contains eighty-six folios in vellum, of a 

quarto size, besides some slips inserted, and thirty-six folios in pa-> 

per. The first three folios in vellum are part of a Gaelic MS; 

on astronomy, with figures of the signs of the zodiac. The other 

tellum MS. seems to be mostly on physjc, and is in Gaelic or 

Irish character, with many contractions. There is part of an 

obituary, consisting of two folios in vellum, beginning with 1360, 

and carried on to 1402. 

Many copies of the life of Columba appear to have been dis- 
persed through the islands in the vernacular tongue. One copy 
was found in Barra, and another in Benbicula. Dr Macphersoit 
says, we are informed by Lloyd in his Catalogue of Irish Manu^ 
scripts, *^ that there is still in the Bodleian library at Oxford, an 
Irish manuscript entitled, — The Works of Columbcille in Verse, 
containing some account of the Author's Life, together with hi^ 
Prophecies and Exhortations to Princes." 

The same industrious writer observes, that there is in the li-* 
brary of Trinity College at Dublin, some most curious and won- 
derful ancient MSS., containing the four gospels and a variety of 
other matter. The MS. is ^^ called the Book of Columbcille," and 
thought to have been written by Columba's own hand. Flann^ 
King of Ireland, ordered a very costly cover to be given this book. 
On a silver cross, which makes a part of that cover, is still to be 
seen an Irish inscription, of which the literal meaning is, '^ the 
prayer and blessing of Columbcille to Flann, the son of Mail- 
sheachnail, King of Ireland, who made this cover." 

After lona was shorn of the fairest portions of her revenues by 
William the Lion, as before noticed, she still held many extensive 
possessions. Dean Monro says she had thirteen islands, and he 
gives the names of seven, which he calls Soa, Naban, Moroan^ 
Reringe, Inch Kenzie, Eorsay, and Kannay ; three of these seven 
have changed their appellations, so that it is now impossible to 
guess at them.* 

* Canna, Soa, Eorsa, and Inchlcenneth are the other four ; and from the internal 
evidence afforded by the remains of cells or other establishments, MacCuUoch thinks 
there may be added the three Shiant Isles, the three Garveloch Isles, and the Isles off 
St Cormac, which, with Rasay, will nearly make up the number ; of which latter 
island the Dean says it belonged to lona by heritage, but was then ^< perteining" ta< 
MacGilliechallum " by the sword.** It is probable the Treshnish Isles and Colonsa 
belonged also to lona, and it is beliered that Tirie at one time did, as well as the 
two ends of CoU. 



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680 AE6TLE8HIEE. 

Snoe MacCulloch wrote in 1824, considerable light ha9 beeii 
thrown upon the revenues of lona by the transactions of the lona 
Club, instituted im 188a This club, in their Collectanea de Re- 
bus Albanicis, have published the " Rentale of the Bishoprick d 
the Ills and Abbacie of Ecolmkill," which interesting documeot 
was discovered in the charter-chest of Sir John Campbell, Bart, 
of Airds and Ardoamurchan, in 1834^; and, although there is no 
Biarking to that effect, it appears to have been a copy made in the 
reign of James VL from the certified rental drawn up in IMU 
which, by some omission, was never registered. The club have^ 
in the same work, also published a precept, under the privy seal 
of James V L, of a royal charter of novodamus, with augmentatioo 
of the rental to Hector Maclean of Dowart, son and apparent heir 
of Lachlan Maclean of Dowart, of the *^ Island of lona and many 
ether lands formerly belonging to the Abbot of lona, 1687--6&'' 
The club have also published a Report by Thomas Knox, Bishop 
of the Isles, of the state of his diocese in 1626. 

At the Reformation, the Island of lona and the prindpal lands 
belonging to the monastery, fell into the hands of LaueUan Mao» 
lean of Dowart, the most powerful chief in the neighbourhood» 
and his son Hector, as we have already shown, was confirmed 
therein by the charter of novodamus, granted by King James VL 
in bis favour in 1587-8& 

In 1567, John Carswell was Bishop of the Isles, as we find 
from a renunciation, by Lauchlan Maclean, in hb &vour thereof 
and of the Abbacie of lona. 

In 1678^ John Campbell was Bishop, as appears from an obli* 
gation by Roderick Macleod of the Lewis in his favour. 

In 1609, Andrew Knox, then Bishop of the Isles, (he was af* 
terwards succeeded by his son Thomas in the Bishoprick), held a 
court at lona, which was attended by the principal men of the 
Isles, whereat two statutes were enacted for forwarding religion, 
morality, and education among the isUnders. 

In 1617, King James VL annexed the Abbey of lona to Ae 
Bishoprick of the Isles. In the same year, an act of ParliaoieDt 
was passed nominating a chapter for the Bishoprick of the Isles. 

In 1631, Charles L writes the Lord Advocate regarding cer* 

tain actions depending before the Court of Session for restoration 

of the temporalities of the Bishoprick. 

In 1992, Charles L writes to the Treasurer-Depate of Scot- 

8 



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KILFINICHEN AND KlLVICBUEN. 861 

hmd regarding the pajmeot of a pension formerly granted to the 
Bisbep of the Isles. 

bk 168S^ Charles L writes to the Dean and Chapter of the 
Isles reoommending Mr Neil Campbell to be eleeted as Bishop. 

In 1634, Charles L writes to the Lords of Session to hasten 
their decision in a law-suit between the late and the present Bi* 
shop of the Isles. 

In 1685, Charles I. writes to Sir Lauchlan Maclean of Dowart 
and Morrern, Knight, Baronet, desiring him to restore the Island 
of Icolmkill to the Bishop of the Isles. In the same year, his 
Majesty writes to the Court of Session in favour of the Bishop of 
Ae Isles, and particularly regarding the tithe fishes of the Isles. ' 
In that year, his Majesty farther writes" to the liords of Ekche*^ 
quer directing the payment of a grant of L.400 Sterling to the 
Bishop of the Isles, for repairing the cathedral church of Icolm* 
kill. 

AH these documents are published at length by the lona Club 
in their Collectanea de Rebus Albanicis. 

In 1686^ Governor Sackeverell visited lona, and from him we 
find that the cathedral church and other buildings were then in 
rains, from which it may reasonably be inferred, the L.400 refer* 
red to above was never expended in their repair. 

Then we have the Statistical Account of lona in the Macfar- 
lane MS., before given as in 1698 ; thus carrying the history of 
the island down to that period, at or about which time lona came 
into the hands of the Dukes of Ar^yle, in whose family it has 
since continued. His Grace is likewise proprietor of the whole 
quoad sacra parish. 

Antiquities. — We will begin with the cathedral or church of St 
Mary, as being the most conspicuous object amongst the ruins ; 
and, although inferior to many other Gothic cathedrals and ab- 
beys of a more recent date in Scotland, it has been very magnificent 
for the remote period in which it was built Boece says that it 
was built by Malduinus in the seventh century. It is extremely 
remarkable for the materials of which it is constructed, being 
built of sienite or red granite, brought from the opposite coast of 
Mull. There the stone is procured in abundance and of the best 
quality, equal, indeed, to the famous red granite which the Romans 
brought firom Upper Egypt, with which they erected their most 
superb moouments. It is nowhere polished in any part of the 
building, but painfully formed, by hammering, to a plain surfece ; 



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332. ARGYLBSHIRB. 

and there are many fine blocks of it, fi?e or six feet long, both in 
the walls and in the rubbish. The labour of quarrying and form- 
ing such a quantity of this stone as so great a building required, 
is, Dr Walker says, ** a piece of work like the Egyptian obelisks, 
whose execution must strike with surprise the people of modem 
times.-' The rock is solid, the stone of almost impenetrable 
hardness. The windows, doors, cornices, arches, pillars, and 
other monuments of the church, many of which have ^been ex- 
quisitely carved, are all of a fine gray freestone, brought from 
quarries in another part of Mull at a considerable distance^ 
The cement of the building, like that of other ancient structures, 
* is so strong, that it is easier to break^the stones than to force them 
asunder. It is of lime that has been calcined from sea shells, and 
formed into a very gross mortar, with coarse gravel in a large pro- 
portion, and a great quantity of the fragments of white coral, 
which abounds upon the shores of the island.* 

Monastery, — Along the north side of the cathedral, and imme- 
diately adjoining it, is the ihonastery, consisting of a number of 
buildings of different sizes, and evidently built at different times. 
Boece gives this monastery a very early antiquity. He says, that 
after the defeat of the Scots at the batfle of Munda, a. d. 379, 
the survivors, with all the religious, fled to this island, and were 
the original founders of the monastery. But the account given by 
Bede seems much more probable, that Columba was the original 
founder, as has been before related. In the monastery were the 
cells and apartments of the religious, but now s6 perfectly ruinous 
that they convey no distinct appearance. 

* We must here again regret that space does not allow a particular description of 
this cathedral, See, Vide MS. in retenUt. 

It is said that there were in the cathedral, a fine peal of bells, which were re- 
moved to Glasgow at the time of the Reformation ; but by a letter from King Charles 
J. to the Bishop of Ilapho in SecreUry Stirling'd MS. Register, it would appear that 
one of lona'b own bishops gave a helping hand in plundering the cathedral, and that 
he had removed two of the principal bells and placed them in some of the Rapho 
churches, where, in all probability, they still arc. The letter is in these terms :— 
** Reverend Father in God «— 'Whereas we ar informed that Andro late Bischop of 
Rapho at his transportatioun from the Bishoprick of Yles did, without just cause or 
aney warrant frome our late royall father or us, carie with him two of the principal 
bells that were in Icolmkill, and place them in some of the churches of Rapho; to 
which purpois we doe remember that at the tyme of yowr being Bischop of Yles you 
were a suttor to as for effectuating that thing at your predicessour the Bischop of 
Raphoe*s hands, which we now requyre of yow. Therefor, and in regard we have 
gevin ordour to the present Bischop of Yles for repairing the cathedrall church of 
that Bischoprick, and that it is fit that such things as do properlie belong thereunto be 
restored ; it is our pleasour that you cause delyver unto the said Bischop these two 
belles for the use of the said cathedrall church with such tymlie convenience as may 
be ; which we will acknowlcdiie as acceptable service done unto us. — Whythall, 14 
March 1635. 



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KILFINICHBN AND KLIVICEUEN. 333 

Among the ruins of the monastery were the sacred black stones* 
They are no longer to be found ; but the spot where they were is 
pointed out. On these the ancient Highland and island chieftains, 
when they made contracts and alliances, used to make oath, which 
was considered more sacred than any other obligation, and not to 
be violated without incurring the greatest infamy. 

Bishop* 8 House. — Uponjthe north side of the monastery, stand 
the remains of the house which was the habitation of the Bishop 
of the Isles, after the Isle of Man was separated from them. This 
event, as already mentioned, happened in the time of Edward I. 
of England. On the arrival of the bishops in lona, the abbots 
allowed them the use of the abbey church, for they had there no 
cathedral of their own. 

Reilig Ourain^ or the burying-place of Oran, a vast enclosure, 
and the great place of ioteiment not only for the monarchs 
whose remains were deposited here, but for the chiefs and poten* 
tates of every isle and their lineage, who were all ambitious of lying 
in this holy spot. This place is, in a manner, filled with grave 
and monumental stones, either covered with weeds and moss, or 
half-buried in rubbish. The lona Club, in 1833, by permission 
of the President, his Grace the Duke of Argyle, made some search- 
es in this ancient cemetery, for such tomb-stones as might have 
been concealed by the accumulation of rubbish ; and the result 
of their operations was, that a considerable number of finely 
carved tomb-stones were brought to view, which none of the in- 
habitants had ever before seen. These were placed upon the 
surface of the cemetery. Several of them bear inscriptions, which, 
although not at present very legible, may ultimately be decipher- 
ed and give some useful imformation. 

OrarCs Chapel — The Chapel of St Oran stands at a little dis- 
tance from the Cathedral, and to the south-west of the building, 
which is said to have been the first building attempted by Colum- 
ba. It is 60 feet long and 22 broad within the walls, and 
JBIled with monumental stones. This was the burial-place of 
the Macdonalds, Kings of the Isles and Lords of Isia, of the Mac- 
kenzies, Macquaries, Macleans, Macleods, and other great fami- 
lies.* 

* There is here one monument stiU entire hayins a ship upon it with hoisted sails, 
« standard, and four lions with the followins simple inscription ** Hie jacet Corpus 
Angeusii Filii Domini Angusii MacDonuil de Yle,*' i. e. Here lies the corpse of An- 
gus, the son of Angus MacDonald Lord of Islaj. This is probably the monument of 
that Angus who was Lord of Islay in the reign of 'Robert the Bruce, and the steady 



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834 AaGtLBSUlRR. 

Tbe Septtlcbre of the Kings diffiears from all the other monu- 
nents in this cemetery, by being built, the rest beiog all single 
atonesir In this shrine^ as described by Dean Monro in the ear* 
lier part of this narratiye (and in which he is followed by Bu* 
ehanan and Martin) there were three little efaapels; b the one 
inscribed *^ Tkumtbu Begum SooHat* were deposited the remains 
of forty-eight Scottish monarchs, beginning, as Boece says, with 
Fergus IL, and ending with the famous Macbeth; his sue* 
cesser, Malcolm Canmore, having decreed that for tbe future 
DunfiBrmline should be the place of royal sepulture. Of the 
Scottish monarchs interred in lona, sixteen are said to be of the 
race of Alpin. Fergus is supposed to hare been the founder of 
this mausoleum. 

The next was inscribed Tumvlui Befftan HibemuBf and con- 
tains four Irish monarchs* According to tbe Annals of Ulster 
in A. D. 765, Beatus Nial, King of Ireland, who had abdicated his 
kingdom, and had been for eight years in lona, died there ; and 
B« Artgall M'Catheld, King of Connaught, who likewise abdi* 
cated, died at lona in 786 ; and according to Dr Keatmg in his 
NoHtia Hybemictj Cormac M'Aird, one of the kings of Ireland, 
was buried here* 

Tbe third little chapel was inscribed Tumulus Begum Nonoegieef 
and contained eight Norwegian Princes, of whom the aonak of 
Ulster tell us, that in 980, Amulabh or Aulay, son of Stirick, 
Prince of the Normen of Dublin, after his defeat in the battle of 
Tarab, took refuge in lona, where he died. The Chronicles of 
Man say, that in 1 187, on the 4th of the ides of November, GkMt- 
red. King of the Isles, departed this life ; and tbe smnmer foU 
lowing, his body was conveyed to tbe island of Hy,-**a»d in 1228^ 
according to tbe same chronicle, Haco-Uspac, King of the Sodo* 
rian Islands, was killed with a stone in the taking of a castle m 
Bute^ and was burieRl in lona. 

fKend of that roonarcb in hb greatest misfortanet. This monument is without any 
date, it not being eustomarr ever to add a date even to a charter, tiff the days of 
King Robert the Bruce. In another place lies the gnwe-atone of tbe oelelmted 
Ailean*nan-8op, whose history is given under the Statistical Account of Kilninian 
Mid Kiknore, as bead and founder of that branch of tbe fittmily of M«c)eaa no^ fc*- 
presented by Mrs Clephanc Maclean of Torloisk. Tliis stone is ornamented with « 
carving and a ship. A Macquarie of Ulva also appears ; a Maclean of Coll ; a Mae^ 
lean of Dowart ; and a Maclean of Lochboy ; a Mackende of KinUil ; and Madeod 
of Madeod. A considerable space of gtound is covervd with the monumental stones 
€t the cbieA and principal AnniHes in the Highlandls. £aeb stono lies flat opoa tbt 
gromd, and is seldom larger than the dimensions of Ut« grave it Mvert. It tfSithe 
ancient custom, as it still is in some places, to bury tbe whole fiunily, or at kast rlia 
heads of it, utidef the same stone. 



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KILFINICHBN AND KILVICEUEN. §86 

This building, like all other monttments orer the graves in this, 
place, faces the east, — ^its walls are about four feet higfay very 
rudely but strongly built. It is yet entire, except at one comer 
where the roof has fallen in, but there is now do vestige of an in« 
scription upon any part of it. 

The remains of so many kings, and some of them* very great 
ones, reduced to such a span — the dost of Achaius, of the Don- 
alds, of the Constantinesy of Kenneth II., and Gregory the Great, 
each of then the conqueror of a kingdom, all confin^ within the 
walk of this narrow house, in the solitary island of lona,— -is such 
a curiosity, as is perhaps nowhere else to be met with in the 
worid ; and to a contemplative mind, the most melancholy spec* 
tacle of human greatness. 

About seventy feet south of the chapel, is a red unpoitsiied 
slone, beneath which lies a king of France. Both history and 
tradition are silent as to who this king was. 

Near the tomb of the kings is an inscription upon a stone, writ* 
ten, it would appear, before the use of surnames, and in a eharao^ 
ter more ancient than that of the others, — thus, Or daman JRsw 
Airtc, or the tomb of Patrick. Not far from this, there is an- 
other inscription, written in a similar character, upon a stone half 
sunk in the earth, Coramac U^hada hie. This is said to be one 
of the Irish kings before referred to. 

Upon the west side of the church, there is the foUowfaig in- 
scription, ** Hie jacet Johannes Betonus Madenorum familiiB medi^^ 
cu$f qui mortuus estf 19 Novembris 1657, at. 63. Danaldus Be^ 
tonuM fecit 1674. Ecce cadet jaculo vietricis mortis iniques; qui to» 
lies alios soherat ipse malis. Soli Deo Gloria.** This is one of 
the celebrated Mull physicians referred to in the earlier part of this 
narrative. 

Oojiei.— -In afield upon the west side of the church) there is a 
cross which appears to be of very ancient date. It is of one stone^ 
liear eight feet high and twenty inches broad, set on a pedestal of 
granite. It is of the hardest whin rock, and though it has the ap- 
pearance of great age^ it is bat little impaired, except at the top 
where a part of it has been broken oiT by violence. Adommn 
seeobs to inean this stone, when he ioforms-us that in Columba's 
time, there was. a cross which stood midway between the monas- 
tery and the granary, and which was afterwards, he says,, fix^ on 
a pedestal. Thb is- the precise situation of the cross we describe, 
for there is a very ancient ruin of the granary about the same dis^ 



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336 ARQYLB8HIRE. 

tance west from it that the church is distant from it to the e&st 
This cross is of a different form, and apparently of a different em 
from any others to be seen in the Hebrides or Highlands ; and no 
wonder, as it appears to be contemporary with Columba and the 
oldest monument extant in the Island of lona, and probably the 
most ancient Christian monument in Scotland. 

At a little distance from this cross to the south, there stands 
another of a much larger size, and more entire. It is also one 
solid column of the hardest whin rock, 14 feet high, and yet 
only 18 inches broad, and six inches thick. It is fixed in a 
pedestal of one stone, which is about three feet high, and hewn 
quite round into three steps. Though very probably posterior to 
the former, it appears to be very ancient. The labour and art of 
quarrying such a column, of transporting it to the island, and of 
polishing and erecting it when it was brought, are circumstances 
really astonishing, when one considers how inadequate the powers 
and skill of that part of the country would be at present to the exe« 
cution of such a work. The Hebrides, and this part of them in 
particular, must have at some former epoch been possessed of re« 
sources, wealth, power, and civilization totally incompatible with 
the ideas usually adopted in regard to their ancient history* 

From this cross to another ancient building which was a nun* 
nery, there runs a causeway about 300 paces in length, and about 
15 feet broad. It is joined by two others, one of them called 
the Royal Street, and the other Martyr Street, leading to the bay 
of Martyrs. 

Nunnery. — The successors of Columba did not, it would ap» 
pear, adhere to his strict prohibition for the exclusion of females 
from the Island. We are sure there were no monastic establish- 
ments for females during the times of Columba's discipline, nor 
under the Culdees. The proper monastic establishments of lona 
belong to the age of the Romish influence. Indeed, there were no 
nunneries in Scotland until the introduction of the regular Popisk 
clergy, and, therefore, the date of this building is brought down 
to a period later at least than 1200. The architecture is purely 
Norman. 

The chapel has been a very neat building, and is said to have 
been the burial-place for ladies of high rank, as St Mary's chureb 
and Grants chapel were for men. 

At the eastern end of the chapel is the tomb of the last prioress, 
which is now much defaced* 



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KILFINICHEN AND KILVICEUEN. 337 

There are some other monuments on the floor, but they are so 
de&ced as to be almost undistioguishable. 

This nunnery is said to have been liberally . endowed ; besides 
the islands of Inniskenneth and Eorsa formerly mentioned as be- 
longing to the prioress, there were lands in Mull which it enjoyed, 
and some of which go by the name of the Nuns' lands to the pre- 
sent day. 

The precincts of the tombs in lona were held sacred, for, ac- 
cording to Fordun, they enjoyed the privilege of girth or sanctu- 
ary. But these privileges did not, by the ancient Scotch law, in- 
discriminately shelter every offender. All atrocious criminals were 
excluded, and only the unfortunate delinquent, or the penitent 
sinner could here deprecate the rigour of justice. They were re- 
quired to make restoration of any property they had stolen, jand to 
make oath that they would steal no more. The manslayer was 
enjoined, on pain of banishment, to surrender himself to the law^ 
in order that it might be decided whether the slaughter commit- 
ted amounted to murder. Penalties were enacted, to defend those 
refugees entitled to sanctuary, from all molestation during their 
retreat 

The Bay of Martyrs takes its name, according to tradition, as 
being the place where the bodies of those who were to be inter- 
red in the holy ground, were received during the period of Ro- 
mish superstition. 

mU ofAngeUy or Cnoc-nan-Aingeal, is a little hill with a small 
circle of stones, and a little cairn in the middle, considered by Pen- 
nant as Druidical. Here, it is said Columba, after his arrival, 
had a conference with angels, from which tradition it derived 
the name. 

Clack'na-briUh. — This Druidical talisman is said to have con- 
sisted originally of three globes of white marble, placed in three 
basins, but these, like the crosses, were destroyed at the Reforma- 
tion. There is still a single stone pointed out, and which the 
boys of the village take care to preserve, so as to make it serve 
the same purpose. 

lona has been called the Rome of Scotland and Ireland ; but 
the comparison does not render justice to lona, she being, while 
under the discipline of Columba's laws, in the hand of the Cul- 
dees, the seat of a far purer Christianity ; for lona preserved the 
opinions and practices of the oriental church in comparative sim- 
plicity, and preached the gospel with purity long after the cor- 

ABGYLE, Y 



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388 AUGYLESHIRE. 

ruptions of Rome had diffused themselves like a leprosy over the 
Biirrounding countries; and while under the Caldees, she vigorous- 
ly opposed the errors, and resisted the encroachments of the Ro- 
mish interest, 

III. — Population. 

In 1688, Sacheverell found the number of families in lona to 
be about 80. In 1755, there was a return made to Dr Webster 
of 277 souls. In 1791, the census taken by the then minister of 
Ross gave 323. In 1808, according to Macdonald, they amounted 
to 386. In 1824, MacCulIoch found them to be 450. In the 
present year, 1842, the population of the island has advanced to 
500. 

The population of those parts of Ross Mull, joined quoad sacra 
to lona, give 620, which, added to that of the island, makes the 
whole population of the parish to be 1120 souls. This popula- 
tion consists of agriculturists and fishers. The whole belong to 
the Established Church, with the exception of 4, two of which are 
Roman Catholics and the other two Baptists. 

Kelp was manufactured here, but discontinued for the same 
causes which, as described in the quoad civilia parish, compelled 
its being given up there, much to the loss of the population. 

The village consists of about 40 houses, none of them slated. 
The remaining part of the population is scattered over the island 
on the croft system. When Pennant visited lona, he found this 
village or town to consist of about 50 houses ; but the whole po- 
pulation of the island, at that time, was clustered there. 

IV. — Parochial Economt. 

As already mentioned, there is a Government church and 
manse. The minister's stipend, including allowance for commu- 
nion elements, is L. 120. There is a glebe, which is valued at 
L.1, 10s. yearly ; and he has a privilege of cutting peats. The 
communicants upon the roll are about 200. A Government 
school has been built by the present Duke of Argyle, who takes a 
lively interest in all things connected with this island and district 
There are likewise, in this quoad sacra parish, a charity school, a 
Gaelic school, and two female schools. The teachers keep Sab- 
bath schools. 

There is no peat in lona, but the inhabitants obtain their fuel 
from peat-mosses set apart for them on his Grace's property iti 
Mull, opposite to lona. 

The poor are supported by the charity of their neighbours, and 



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XILNINIAN AND KILMORE. 839 

the collections made at the churcb*door, which average yearly from 
L.8 to L.4. 

During the summer and harvest months, steam-boats come 
regularly with crowds of strangers and tourists from almost every 
country and clime, to visit this celebrated island. The antiqua- 
rian, the historian, the tourist, and even the fashionable, are to be 
found among the number, — some to explore or examine, and others 
to behold and admire ; for here they find themselves surrounded 
by the graves of those who were royal, and noble, and holy, in Cale- 
donia and Hibernia a thousand years ago ; while the thick walls, 
the massive arches, and the finely-wrought columns of the various 
sacred edifices, which in remote ages flourished in this sanctified 
isle, supply the deepest reflections, and awaken the most Solemn 
feelings. 

Drawn up 1842. 
Revised September 184a 



UNITED PARISH OF 
KILNINIAN AND KILMORE.* 

COMPREHENDING THE QUOAD SACRA PARISHES OF ULVA, 
TOBERMORY, AND PART OF SALEN, IN THE DISTRICT OF MULL. 

PRESBYTERY OF MULL, SYNOD OF ARGVLB. 

THE REV. D. M^ARTHUR, D.D., MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — This united parish is supposed to have derived its name 
from a reputed saint called Ninian, but of whom there is now no 
tradition remaining in the place, but who was probably the famous 
St Ninian or Ringan, who is said by Bede to have converted the 
southern Picts to Christianity. There are still places and parishes 
in Scotland which, to this day, bear his name. 

Extenty Boundaries^ ^c. — Exclusive of its numerous islands, it 
is of great extent, and forms a broad peninsula, lying north-west 
from the isthmus where the large island of Mull is almost cut into 
two equal parts, by a deep bay or estuary from the Atlantic named 
Loch-nan-gaul. In the mouth of Loch-nan-gaul lie the islands 

* Drawn up by Francis William Clark, Esq. of Ulva. 



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3^^ AR6YLESHIRB. 

of Ulva, Gometra, Little Colonsa, and Staffa, which belong to 
the united parish. Beyond these, to the westward, and likewise 
appertaining to the parish, are the Treshinish Isles, consisting of 
Fladda, Linga, Bach or the Dutchman's Cap, and the two Cairn- 
burghs. Exclusive of these various islands, the united parish may 
be about 150 to 160 square miles, and is surrounded on all side» 
by the sea, excepting at the isthmus already mentioned, which, 
together with Loch-nan-gaul, divides it from the parishes of To* 
rosay and Kilfinichen on the south. To the south of StaSa iS' 
lona or Icolmkill ; and to the west of the Treshinish Isles, are the 
islands of Tiree and Coll. At a greater distance to the north are 
seen the isles of Canna, Rum, Eigg, and Muck ; and, nearer, is 
to be seen the point or headland of Ardnamurchan, the westmost 
extremity of the mainland of Scotland. To the east, the Sound 
of Mull divides the united parish from that of Morven. The pa- 
rish lies about 171 miles W. N. W. of Edinburgh, 62 N. W. of 
Inverary, and 30 N. W. of Oban. 

Topographical Appearances. — The general appearance of the 
land is billy, and the hills are, for the most part, covered with 
heath. The arable land lies generally near the shore. The more 
inland parts are good pasture intermixed with moss and heath. 
The state of agriculture would be much farther advanced, were 
the roads in better order. There is great want of proper roads 
in this parish. 

Meteorology. — The climate may be characterized as very healthy. 
Many persons live to the patriarchal age of between eighty and nine- 
ty, and a few have exceeded ninety years. There is at present in the 
island of Ulvaa woman who has attained to 100, with her faculties 
entire. An impression has prevailed, that rain falls here to a greater 
extent than in the low country; there is reason to doubt the accu- 
racy of this, especially in the Ulva parish, judging from a regis- 
ter of the weather kept by Mr Clark at Ulva House for the last 
seven years. The prevailing gales are from the west and south- 
west The winters are much more temperate and mild than in 
the inland parts of Scotland, the grouods being seldom covered 
with snow, and the frosts never of long continuance. 

Geologyy Soil^ 6^c* — Athough the appearance of the land is 
hilly, yet there are no mountains of remarkable height The basalt 
and wacken strata, traversed with basaltic veins, seem to pervade 
the whole. The wacke affords many beautiful specimens of zeo- 
lite, and also the rarer fossil prehnite. The zeolite is frequently 



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KILNINIAN AND KILMORE. 341 

Gbrousy and sometimes appears passing to chalcedony. The soil 
is commonly of a h'ght-reddish earth, or a mixture of moss with 
little depth, and, in some places, much under water. 

Zoology^ — There are five lakes in the parish, all of them 
abounding with excellent trout and pike. The streams likewise 
furnish trout, and, at the mouth of them, salmon. The game 
consists of grouse, blackcock, snipe, and plover. Rabbits and 
hares are abundant ; and deer are to be found. The salt water 
fish, shell-fish, and sea-fowl, &c are particularized under the 
quoad sacra Ulva parish. 

II. — Civil History. 
There are eleven landed proprietors, whose names and valued 
rents in Sterling money are as under : 

Hugh Maclean, Esq. of Coll, . . L.82 14 11 

Mrs Clephane Maclean of Torloisk, 

Francis William Clark, Esq. of Ulva, . 

Hugh MacAskill, Esq of Calgarry, 

F. W. Caldwell, Esq. of Tobermory, and John Stewart, ] 

Achadashenaig, for MisbnUb, 
John Stewart, Esq. of Achadashenaig, 
Lachlan Macquarie, Esq. of Glenforsa, 
British Society, , 

Misses Macdonald, 
John Forman, Esq. W.S. of Stafia, 
Kenneth Campbell, Esq. of Ardow, 

Total valued rent, . L.d29 3 

Before the Reformation, there were no less than eight places 
of worship in this parish, the ruins of which are still to be seen, 
although, after the Reformation, and down to the year 1S27, only 
one clergyman was left to serve the cure ; a lamentable want of 
spiritual instruction, therefore, necessarily existed, as, from the 
great extent of the parish, and its numerous islands, it became im« 
possible for the parishioners to attend, with anything like regula- 
rity, the parish church ; and to any one clergyman, however zea- 
lous, serving the cure of a charge so extensive and divided, the 
duty became more than physical strength could perform. In the 
year 1827, the Parliamentary Commissioners, acting under the exe- 
cution of the Act 4 and 5 George IV., erected two parishes quoad 
sacra in this parish, and planted a church in each. A part of the 
united parish was likewise cut off, and added to the new Government 
chai^ of the parish of Salen. Government, by these wise arrange- 
ments, have conferred a lasting and truly valuable boon on the 
numerous inhabitants of this populous district; and if to each Go- 
vernment church be added, as is in contemplation, a school, the 
boon will become a double blessing. 

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59 4 


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49 5 


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. 83 16 11 


6 16 


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27 15 


2 


10 2 


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13 16 


8 


2 9 


2 


2 17 


3 



342 ARGTLBSUIBE. 

As the united parish is thus now divided into three distinct pa- 
rishes, viz. KilniniaU) Uiva, and Tobermory, having separate and 
defined charges, with a church, manse, and clergyman for each, 
the purpose of this narrative will be best attained by taking up 
these parishes in detail* 

KiLMINIAN. 

Extent — It extends, quoad iacra^ to from 60 to 70 square miles, 
as from the line which separates it from the parish of Tobermory on 
the north to the shore of Torloisk, the southern boundary, the dis- 
tance is not less than ten miles; and from the south-west extremity to 
Esse-forse, the distance will be from six to seven miles ; or, taking 
the line on the north side, from the shore of Benalbanoch to the east 
march of the farm of Letirmore, which separates it from the parish 
of Salen in that direction, the distance will be about seven miles. 
On the north, the parish is bounded by that of Tobermory ; on 
the north-east, by the parish of Salen ; on the east, by the pa- 
rishes of Salen and Ulva ; and on the south and west, by the At- 
lantic The Treshinish isles are attached to this parish, but not 
included in the foregoing measurement. 

Antiquities. — On the height above Kilmore, there are five 
large stones disposed in a kind of circular form, and supposed to 
have been a place of worship in the times of Druidism. Cairn- 
burgh or Cairnbulg, one of Treshinish isles, was anciently consi- 
dered a place of great strength^ and supposed to have been fortified 
in Norwegian times. It is a high rock, of some considerable ex- 
tent on the top, and inaccessible on all sides excepting by one 
narrow pass. In 1715, it was garrisoned by the Macleans, and 
was taken and retaken more than once during the rebellion of 
that year. It was attacked and taken by Cromwell's troops in the 
days of the Commonwealth ; and here, it is fancied, were the res- 
cued books of lona burned. Little Cairnburgh is a smaller rock 
near it, and separated by a narrow sound, to which the same de- 
scription applies. These rocks are said to have been the boun- 
dary of the two governments into which the Hebrides were divided 
when subject to the Crown of Denmark, called the Nodorees and 
Sodorees, or northern and southern isles ; and tradition bears, that 
the two governments not unfrequently contended for the possession 
of this stronghold. 

Mansion Houses. — Calgarry Castle, the seat of Hugh Mac- 
Caskill, Esq., is a neat modern building, and appears to considera- 



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RILNINIAN AND RILMORE. 349 

ble advantage from the sea. Torioisk, the beautiful seat of the 
late Mrs Clephaue Maclean, is situated amongst thriving planta- 
ttoDSy and commands a &ne view of the Ulva north loch, and the 
Treshinish islands.* 

* The origin of Uie founder of this distinguished bnmch of the olan Maelcan is 
thus given in traditionary story : Maclean of Dusrt having had an intrigue with a 
beautiful young woman of his own clan, she bore to him a son. The child being 
bom in a barn received the name of AUan-a-sop, or JUan of the ttrvw, Allan being 
a natural son had no inheritance to look to, saving what be might win for himself 
Maclean of Torloisk afterwards married the boy^i mother, and took her to reside 
with him at his castle of Torloisk* Allan paid his mother frequent visits at her new 
reudence, which were by no means acceptable to her husband. The lady one mom- 
ing looking from the window saw her son wandering down the hill, and hastened to 
put a cake on the fire for his breakfast. Her husband noticins this, snatched the 
cake from the girdle, and, thrusting it into his step-son^s hands, forcibly closed them 
on the scalding bread,' saying, '< Here is a cake, Allan, which your mother has pre- 
pared for your breakiast*^ Allans hands were severely burnt, and, resenting this 
mark of his step-&ther*s ill will, he came not again to Torloisk. 

At this time the western seas were covered with piratical vessels sent out by the 
Danes. Allan entered as a mariner on board one of these, and, having attained to the 
command first of one galley, and then of a flotilla, he made his name both feared and 
fiimous in the western seas. At length thinking of his mother, he proposed paying 
her a visit, and, setting sail for this purpose, anchored one morning in the Ulva north 
loch, and in front of the house of Torloisk. His mother was by this time dead ; but 
his step-fiuher hastened to the shore to receive his now formidable son- in-law with 
great apparent kindness. The crafty old man succeeded so well, as he thought, in 
aeeuring AUan^s friendship, that he began to think it possible to employ Allan in exe- 
cuting his private revenge on Macquarie of Ulva, one of his neighbours, with whom 
he had some feud. With this purpose he says to Allan, ** You have now wandered 
on the seas long enough ; it is time you should have a footing on land, a castle to 
protect yourself in winter, a village and cattle for your men, and a harbour to lay up 
your galleys; Now here is the Island of Ulva lying ready for your reception, and it 
will cost you no trouble, H^ve that of putting to death the present laird, a useless old 
carl, who has cumbered the world long enough." 

Allan, acting on so happy a suggestion, set sail next morning to put it in execu- 
tion, and, appearing before Macquarie*s house, the old chief of Ulva was much 
alarmed at the menacing apparition of so many galleys. Having no effectual means 
of resistance, Macquarie, who was a shrewd man, saw no alternative but to receive 
the invaders, whatever might be their purpose, with all outward demonstrations of 
joy and satisfaction. He caused a banquet to be prepared as splendid as circumstan* 
oea admitted, hastened to the sound to meet the rover, and welcomed him to Ulva 
with such an appearance of sincerity, that the pirate found no pretence for picking a 
quarrel. 

They feasted together the whole day, and, in the evening, Allan, being about to 
retire to his ships, thanked the chief for his entertainment ; but remarked with a sigh 
that it had cost him very dear. *' How can that be," said Macquarie, ^< when I be- 
stowed this entertainment upon you in free good will ?*' <* It is true, my friend,** 
said the pirate, ** but then it has quite disarranged the purpose for which I came hi- 
ther, which was, to put you to death, seise your castle and island, and settle myself 
in the world. This island would have been most convenient for me ; but your hos- 
pitable reception renders it impossible for me to execute my purpose. I, therefiire, 
must be a wanderer on the seas a sliort time longer.**—'* My Dear Allan,** replied 
Macquarie, *' I am sure this never arose from your own generous nature, but from 
your father-in-law, old Torloisk, who made an indifferent husband to your good mo- 
ther, and an unfriendly step-father to you. Consider this matUr better, Allan, and 
you will see that the estate and harbour of Torloisk lie as conveniently for you as 
those of Ulva, and, if you most make a settlement by force, it is much better you do 
so at the expense of the old churl who never showed you kindneis* than of a friend 
like me who always loved and honoured you.** 



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844 ARGTLKSHIRE. 

III. — Population. 

By a priyate census taken in 1837, the population was 1920. 
Adults, about two-thirds. 

The number of males and females nearly equal. Number of 
iamilies, 328. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture, — In agriculture, considerable improvement has 
been made since the last Statistical survey, and there is a greater 
quantity of crop now produced, arising from the different system 
of management which now prevails, especially on farms of any ex- 
tent. Besides, there has been of late years, in different parts of 
the parbh, a considerable quantity of waste ground brought under 
eultiyation ; and the cultivation of turnips and clover, formerly 
unknown in this corner, is now making rapid progress. The Che- 
viot breed of sheep were, some years ago, introduced by Mr Ca- 
meron, one of Mr MacCaskilFs tenants, and they are thriving be- 
yond all expectation. 

Formerly, kelp used to be manufactured on the different pro- 
perties in this parish, which contributed considerably to the sup- 
port of the population ; but, of late years, this source has entirely 
failed, as no kelp is now made. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical State, — There are two churches, one at Kiininian, 
and the other at Kilmore, at the distance of about seven miles from 
each other. Both these churches were built in 1754, and are 
kept in tolerable repair. Last year they underwent a thorough 
repair. 

There are 6ve schools in the parish ; one the parochial school, 
another the General Assembly's, a third supported by the So- 
ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge, a fourth by the Gae- 
lic School Society, and the fifth by the Glasgow Auxiliary. On 

Allan-a-iop being struck with the justice of this reasoning, and the old offence of 
his scalded fingers being suddenly recalled to bis mind, said, *^ I have not forgot what 
a hot breakfast my father-in-law treated me to one morning. Farewell for the pre. 
sent ; you shall soon hear news of me from the other side of the sound.** Having said 
this much, the rover went on board, unmoored the galleys, sailed back to Torloisk,and 
|irepared to land in arms. His fioher-in-law hastened to meet him, in the eipeou- 
tion of bearing of the death of his enemy, Macquarie. But Allan greeted him in a 
▼ery different way from what he expected : ^ You hoary old traitor,* said be, ** you 
instigated me to murder a better man than yourself ;--4iave you forgotten how you 
scorched my fingers, twenty years ago, with a burning cake ? The £y is come that 
that breakfilst must be paid for ;** so saying he raised his battle axe, cut down his fa- 
ther- in-Uw, took possession of the castle and property, and established there that 
branch of the clan Maclean now represented by Mr Clephane Maclean. 



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ULVA. 345 

the north side of the parish, are the creeks of Laorin, Lockiriin- 
gary, Pollach, Croig, and Bay of Calgarry, which last opens to- 
wards Tiree. 

Parish op Ulva. 

According to Dr MacCuIloch, animals were a frequent source 
of the names given to many of the Hebridean islands, and, amongst 
others, he gives, as an example, '^ Ulva^' as of Scandinavian ety- 
mology, taking its derivation from the Scandinavian word Uljffur, 
the Isle of Wolves. 

This parish consists of the Islands of Ulva, Grometra, Little 
Colonsa, Staffa, and a portion of the mainland of Mull, and ex- 
tends to about 60 square miles, exclusive of those parts occupied 
by sea. The Island of Ulva, occupying 18 square miles, is se- 
parated from the mainland of Mull by a narrow channel of about 
100 yards, called the Sound of Ulva. To the west of Ulva is 
Gometra, and to the south and south-west of Ulva, Colonsa and 
Staffa. 

Dr MacCuUoch, in treating of the basaltic columns of Ulva, 
says, *^ they are often as regular as those of Staffa, although on a 
much less scale, and pass gradually from that regularity of form 
into the most shapeless masses. In many places they afford ele- 
gant and picturesque compositions, which, although passed every 
day by the crowds who visit Staffa, appear to have been unnoticed. 
If either their numbers, extent, or picturesque appearance be con- 
sidered, they are more deserving of admiration than even those of 
the Giants' Causeway ; and had they been the only basaltic co- 
lumns on this coast, they might have acquired the fame they merit. 
But Ulva is eclipsed by the superior lustre of Staffa ; and while 
the mass of mankind is content to follow the individual who first 
led the way, its beauties will probably be still consigned to neglect'' 

On the south side of Ulva, and near a place called the Castles, 
being a colleclion of columns resembling fortalices, is the farm of 
Cove, so named from an extensive cave about a quarter of a mile 
from the shore. In the face of an abrupt rock, rising perpendi- 
cularly to a height of 90 or 100 feet, is the entrance of this cave, 
presenting the appearance of an arch, having a span of 37 feet ; 
from the mouth of the cave to its extremity, the length is 60 feet, 
the breadth 58, and the height at an average 30 feet ; the roof 
and interior exhibiting as much the appearance of art as nature ; 
the bottom of the cave being covered with dry earth, and no water 



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346 ARGTLESHIBE. 

entering from the top. It occupies an area of about 3480 square 
feet, and the cattle grazing on this farm use it as a place of shelter 
from the inclemency of the weather in the winter^ and the heat 
of the noon-day sun in smnaEier* 

Amongst the numerous islets and rocks which skirt the Ulva 
shores, many covered with verdure, and tenanted by sheep or 
black- cattle, are to be seen not far from this cave, and on the shores 
ofOrmaifff ^^Sceair Carisiinaf" or Chirsty's Rock, regarded by the 
people of Ulva with peculiar feelings, as being in olden times the 
scene of a melancholy drama. It would appear that a ^cusiono 
prevailed in this country, even so recently as forty years ago, of 
the inhabitants setting off to the hills with their flocks at the be- 
ginning of summer, and bivouacking in the vicinity of the best 
upland pastures, and where all the families of the district took up 
their residence till it became necessary to descend to the low 
grounds in the month of August, when the hill pasture became 
bare, and when their crops required attendance. Frequently has 
the writer of this listened with delight to the tales of pastoral life 
led by the people on these occasions, — when free from care, they 
tended their flocks among the pastures of the upland common. 
The men occasionally visited the low grounds to attend their simple 
husbandry then in use, or to procure some of the delicious fish 
which abound along the coast ; some engaged in the chase, or 
followed the game ; and richly did they deem themselves rewarded 
for their toil. When returning to the family circle, the produce of 
the flocks and dairy were put before them, and the feast enlivened 
by the pure essence of mountain dew, joined to the heart-stirring 
strains of the bagpipe. Nor iu this pastoral encampment were 
the women idle ; much of their time was occupied in the labours 
of the dairy, in preparing an abundant stock of butter and cheese 
for winter. When ^* baughting time" was over, the females used 
the distaff and spindle, and, congregating on the sunniest bank, 
enlivened the task of providing the tartan clothing for the family, 
by the simple yet innocent strains of their mountain songs.* 

* Travelling one day among the Ulva hills, one of these pastoral encampments 
was pointed out to me, known by the name of Ari-chreag-nah-ighinn, the .Shieling 
of the Maiden^ Rock. A countryman, who accompanied me, seemed to regard it 
with peculiar interest, and remarked that it was once the scene of a tragic tale. An 
industrious woman, visiting her dairy one day, missed a kebbock, one of tbe fiiirest 
and best. Suspecting a young girl, she accused her of the theft. Tbe maiden de- 
nied the charge, and pled innocent ; but the gudcwife, chagrined at her loss, and, 
in order to extort a confession, seised the girl, and, wrapping a ^ tonag** or pUid^ 
found her neck, dragged her to a kroall rock near tbe encampment, and let her dova 



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ULVA. 847 

Stretching up Loch- nan* Gaul, and giving name to the grounds 
where the Ulva mansion-house is situated, is the promontory of 
Ardnacallich, or old wife's point. This appearance of the rock 
forming the termination of the promontory in the very extraordi^ 
nary 6gure of the bust of an old woman, is only to be seen from 
a certain point sailing out of the Sound of Ulva towards Inch- 
kenneth or Gribon. The point being past, the resemblance is 
lost At the point, a more perfect and wellndefined figure of an 
old woman's head and face, with all the features distinct, cannot 
well be conceived, standing forth, in strong alto relievo^ as the 
guardian genius of the strand. 

Arduacallich Bay and the Sound of Ulva are safe and com. 
modious anchorage ground. On the north side of the island, the 
bay of Soribi, and on the south side, that of Crakaig, are like- 
wise considered good anchorage for vessels, particularly that of 
Soribi, for shipping of any tonnage. Glackingdaline bay, in the 
sound separating Ulva from Gometra, is another harbour for 
shipping. 

The soil of Ulva is superior, of a sharp but fertile nature, pro- 
ducing the best crops, and the grazing rich and wholesome for 
cattle. The shores around the island furnish lime-shell sand in 
abundance, and which, being applied to the land, produces a very 
rich manure. Sea-weed or wreck is likewise used for manure. 
The fineness of the climate, and the earliness of the harvest, in- 
duced Mr Clark, the proprietor, in the spring of 1837, to try 
wheat and peas by way of experiment. They both succeeded' to 
admiration. Seven bolls of fine wheat were raised, a sample of 
which, as considered the first wheat raised in the Hebrides, being 
sent to the Highland Society, has been by the Society transmit- 
ted to their Agricultural Museum, under the charge of Messrs 
Lawson and Son, for the inspection of the curious. In this mu- 

from the verge, with the view of extorting a confession, or deterring her from com- 
mitting like depredations in future. Unfortunately, the tonag tightened, and stran- 
gulation took place, and the scene which followed may be more easily imagined than 
described. The gudewife became inconsolable, for the girl was a near relative of the 
family, and could scarcely believe the vital spark had fled, while her neighbours col- 
lecting to the fatal spot, regarded her, with the utmost abhorrence, as a murderess. 
In these days, the administration of justice was summary, and investigation took up 
little time. Nothing she could urge in extenuation would avail, and an awful ex- 
ample was left to fiiture ages of her punishment, and the detestation in which her 
conduct was regarded. No formal trial took place to restrain the popular indigna- 
tion. They bound her in a large sack, amid the execrations of her people, carried 
her to the Ormaig shore, and there placed on a rock covered by the sea at high wa- 
ter, she slowW terminated existence by the rising tide. The rock still bears her 
name, and is toe Scair Caristina before noticed. 

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048 AROTLESHIRE. 

seum are likewise to be seen three potatoes, raised this season in 
a field on the Uiva Home farm, weighing when dug up about two 
pounds each. In this field, Mr Clark had nearly 900 barrels of 
potatoes. Turnips are found to answer well, and attain a great size. 

The farms in the island are divided and fenced with stone- 
dikes ; each man's possession, however small, is defined and pro- 
tected. Near the shores the arable land generally lies ; more in- 
land, the pasture; and beyond that again, separated by a stone- 
dike running round the island, is the sheep-walk, or hill grounds 
where the tenants' sheep and horses are grazed, each tenant, ac- 
•cording to the extent of his holding, being entitled to place in the 
sheep-walk a certain number of these. 

About 100 tons of kelp are annually manufactured in the island, 
and the kelp, from its strength and manufacture, is allowed to be the 
best in the Western Highlands, and always commands the highest 
price in the market. Some years ago, it carried the Highland 
Society's premium. The other produce of the island are, pota- 
toes, oats, and bear or Scots barley. The tenantry sell consi- 
derable quantities of potatoes, and find a ready market at the To- 
bermory distillery for their barley. Ulva is considered admirably 
adapted for the rearing of black-cattle and horses, and this forms 
another branch of the products of the island. 

Formerly, the tenants held their possessions from year to year 
on tacit relocation, but the present proprietor has introduced 
leases, and gives an allowance for every acre of waste ground 
brought under cultivation. The tenantry are beginning to see the 
advantage of this ; and draining, clearing of stones, and laying on 
of lime shell sand, are going forward. 

By a private census taken in 1837, the island contained a po- 
pulation of 604 souls. In this population there are shoemakers, 
square-wrights, boat-carpenters, tailors, weavers, blacksmiths, dry- 
stone masons, and two merchants, all more or less engaged in agricul- 
ture. Each tenant has a boat, some two, this being as necessary an 
accompaniment of an island farm, as the cart to a low country farm : 
the boat is in never-ending requisition, the using it for fish- 
ing being only one of the many purposes it serves. In seed time, 
it collects the wreck and manure, and in harvest time, takes home 
the grain, potatoes, and peats ; — in a word, next to his horse it be- 
comes, in the management of his farm, the islander's right hand. 

Around the Ulva shores, shell-fish of every description are to be 



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LLVA. 349 

found, including the oyster and clam, lobsters, crabs, spoutfish, 
limpets, welks, &c« Skate, flounder, lythe, plaice, soles, turbot, 
seath, perch, mackerel, and dog- fish, &c. are abundant; herring, 
cod, ling, girnot, &c. and large quantities of salmon have been 
found in Soribi, and the Ulva North Loch. There are also otters, 
seals, porpoises, and most of the sea-fowl that are common on the 
west of Scotland, whether as natives of this district, or birds of 
passage, such as cormorants, scarts, teals, scale drakes, ducks of 
various kinds, &c« ; and the migratory are swans, swallows, cue* 
koos, lapwings, woodcocks, solan geese, curlews, wigeons, &c. Be- 
sides these, eagles, hawks, kites, and geese, wild pigeons, ptarmi- 
gan. Blackcock, grouse, plover, and snipes are to be found, and 
rabbits and hares are abundant. Were Government to restore 
the bounty formerly allowed, ling, cod, and herrings would be Gsh* 
ed to much profit, and Ulva, from its centrality and good har- 
bours, would become a station where a fishery might be advantage- 
ously planted. 

When the celebrated Dr Johnson visited this island, no plan- 
tations were to be seen. Wood, young trees, and planting are 
now making great progress, and the room where the Doctor spent 
the night in Ulva, indulging his bile against the then unclothed 
appearance of the landscape, is yet to be seen in the old Mac- 
quarie mansion house. 

At Kilviceuen, the ordinary burying-ground of the island, which, 
as the name imports, was a place of worship during the domina- 
tion of the Roman Church, there were, some years ago, found 
in the ruins, the bell of the chapel. In Glackingdaline Bay, and 
upon a high and steep rock are the ruins of Glackingdaline Castle, 
but whether of Norwegian or Danish origin cannot be determined* 
The outward works are yet very entire, and the mounds and walls 
on the summit, although covered with a rich sward of grass, can 
be* plainly traced. At high water, the sea surrounds the rock ; 
but at low tide, it can be reached on foot from the Ulva shore, where 
the remains of a pier or causeway, leading from the castle to Ulva, 
are distinctly visible. Several large stones, supposed to be relics 
of Druidism, are to be seen in the island, two at Crakaig, and 
others at Achacharra. 

The only mansion-house in the parish is the seat of Mr Clark^ 

in the island of Ulva. It is a large modern building, and placed 

in an extensive park, about 400 yards distant from the old man- 

8 



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^5^ ARQTLESHIRE. 

sioD-house of the ancieDt Macquaries, the earlier proprietors of 
thesie estates; the natural beauties of the grounds interspersed 
with thriving plantations; the splendid panoramic view of Ben More, 
and the other Mull mountains ; and the Sound, with its green 
islands, — all tend to create in the scenery around the mansion 
house, beauties of a peculiar and very high order. From the 
drawing-room windows of the mansion, looking towards Mrs Cle« 
phane Maclean's, and Mr Clark's property in Mull, and about 
two miles to the north, is to be seen, on Laggan Ulva, the sin- 
gular cataract of Esse-forse. A stream collected in the mountains 
seems to make way with impetuosity down the hill side, and de- 
scribing in its tumbling course two minor waterfalls, it descends 
in one unbroken sheet from a precipice, 90 feet high, into the 
Ulva North Loch. 

The Ulva garden, containbg about two acres, is well stock- 
ed with every kind and variety of fruit, and so early are the 
productions, that strawberries are ripe here as soon as that fruit 
appears in the Edinburgh market 

The Ulva church and manse, two neat .and fine-looking build- 
ings, erected in 1827, are distant about five minutes walk to the 
north of the mansion. Towards the Sound, and beside the Ferry, 
are the Ulva Inn, smithy, merchant's shop, ferryman's and other 
houses. The inn, during last year, was put by Mr Clark in an ef* 
ficient state of repair, and a new innkeeper having taken the esta- 
blishment, every accommodation can now be given to parties on 
pleasure-trips coming to visit Staffa, and the scenery around,— boats 
and men being at all times in readiness. 

The usage, or fine known by the name of ** Mercheia muliemm^'^ 
it is said, lately existed in Ulva, and Doctor Johnson having re- 
peated the tale, it has attracted somewhat more notice than it me- 
rits, and has become a favourite source of debate with tourists and 
antiquarians. Johnson says, *^ Enquiring after the relics of for- 
mer manners, I found that in Ulva, and I think nowhere else, is 
continued the payment of the Mercheia mulierum; a fine in old 
times due to the laird at the marriage of a virgin. This payment, 
like others, was, for want of money, made anciently in the produce 
of the land. Macquarie was used to demand a sheep, for which he 
now takes a orown." The same is told of Sark,' where a similar 
fine was said to be claimed and paid. Macolm IIL is supposed to 
have abolished it. Craig maintains it was imported from France 



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ULVA. 851 

with the feudal law, and Blackstone denies that the Gavel kind 
tenure originated in such a practice* The Irish maintain that 
the Danes introduced the practice into this country, and the High- 
landers allege that it was a power actually exerted by the Lords of 
the Isles. 

* The smaller island of Gometra, separated from Ulva by a very 
narrow channel, contained, by the annexed census taken in 1887, 
168 souls, the soil and character of its products being nearly the 
same as those of Ulva. It has two harbours, the one facing the 
south, and the other the north. 

The still less island of CoUonsa has only a population of six 
souls, and the soil is not so fertile as either that of Ulva or Go- 
metra* 

StafTa is uninhabited, and is about one mile long, and a quarter 
of a mile broad ; but to give a minute detail of the natural beauties 
which attract the annual crowds of strangers from every quarter of 
the globe to view this isle of columns and caves, would occupy 
larger space than these limits permit. Referring, therefore, to 
the many publications and works by men of science and know- 
ledge on this very interesting subject, which are already in the 
hands of the public, it may be only necessary to mention here 
that its Scandinavian name means ** the Island of columns." Its 
highest point is 144 feet above the level of the sea. Westward, 
the cliffs are generally low, rude, and without much beauty; but in 
the north-east quarter, there are five small caves, remarkable for 
the loud reports they give, when the tide enters, resembling the 
distant discharge of heavy ordnance. The northernmost point 
is columnar, and nearly level with the water. The highest 
point of the great face is 112 feet from high-water mark, and be- 
comes lower as it proceeds towards the west ; the greatest height 
above Mackinnon's cave being 84 feet. The same takes place at 
the Clamshell cave, where the vertical cliffs disappear, and are 
replaced by an irregular declivity of a columnar structure, beneath 
which the landing-place is situated. Here the columns are placed 
in irregular directions, being oblique, erect, horizontal, and some- 
times curved : where they reach the grassy surface of the island, 
they gradually disappear, but are sometimes laid bare, presenting 
the appearance of a geometrical pavement, where their ends are 
seen, and in other places displaying portions of their parallel sides. 

At the Clamshell cave, the columns on one side are bent, form- 



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952 ARGTLE8HIRE. 

ing a series of ribs not UDlike an inside view of the timbers of a 
ship ; the opposite wall is formed by the ends of columns bearing 
a general resemblance to the surface of a honeycomb. This caTe 
b 130 feet long, 30 feet high, at the entrance 18 feet broad, and 
the lateral dimensions gradually contracting to its termination. 
The noted rock Buachailie, or the herdsman, is a conoidal pi]e 
of columns, about 30 feet high, lying on a bed of curved horizon- 
tal ones, visible only at low water. The average diameter of the 
jointed columns here, and in Fingal's cave, is about two feet, bat 
sometimes they attain to four ; hexagonal and pentagonal are pre- 
dominant, although they are intermixed with figures of three, four^ 
and more sides, extending even to eight or nine, but rarely reach** 
ing ten. 

The Cormorant, or Mackinnon's Cave, is easy of access, and 
terminates in a gravelly beach, where a boat can be drawn up. 
The height of the entrance is 50 feet, the breadth 48, and the 
length, 224 feet. 

The Boat Cave is accessible only by sea. Its height, about 16 
feet; breadth, 12 feet; and length, 150. 

Fingal's Cave is perpendicular at the sides, and terminates in a 
contracted arch. The height from the top of the arch to that of 
the cliff above is 30 feet ; and from the top of the arch to the sur- 
face of the water at low tide, 66 feet. The pillars by which it is 
bounded on the western side are 36 feet high ; while at the east- 
em, they are only 18. Towards the west, the height of the co- 
lumns gradually increases, as they recede from the cave to the 
altitude of 54 feet. The breadth of the cave at the entrance is 
42 feet, and this continues to within a small distance of the inner 
extremity, when it is reduced to 22. The total length is 227 
feet 

With the morning sun only can the great face of Staffa be seen 
in perfection. Instead of the short space of one hour, which the 
steam-boats can afford to the crowds of strangers who come to 
visit it, many hours and days would be required. And even after 
the accomplished traveller has surveyed it to satiety, he may re- 
turn again and again ; and, at every new visit, this extraordinary 
scenery will rise in his estimation, thus presenting the strongest 
proof of merit which can exist, either in the works of art or nature. 
To make up for the short time steam-boats give travellers, an op- 
portunity is afforded them of remaining behind, and, after having 



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ULVA. 353 

at leisure examined the island, they may proceed in the evening to 
the Ulva inn in any of the Gometra or Ulva boats, which at all 
times attend the steamers ; and next day they may either return 
to Staffa and again embark, or proceed by land to Tobermory, 
passing by the cataract of Esse-forse before noticed ; or, varying 
the route, they may proceed by land or water up Loch-nan-gaul 
coast towards the village of Saleu, where the steam-boats touch. 

III. —Population. 
The following census of the population of the parish of Ulva 
was taken in ]837 with great care, and its accuracy can be de- 
pended on : 

Island of Ulva* 



Total souls. 
Families, . 
Mal^» 
Females, . 
Under 5 years, 


604 
116 

. 296 
908 

. 108 


From 5 to 10, 
10 to 20, . 
20 to 40, 
40 to 70, . 

Above 70, 


73 

. 120 

140 

. 144 

22 




Mainland 


of MM. 




Total souls, 
Families, 
Males, 
Females, 
Under 5 years, 


222 

. 40 
113 

. 109 
32 


From 5 to 10, . 
10 to 20, 
20 to 40. . 
40 to 70, 

Above 70, 


. 35 
33 

. 56 
54 

. 12 




Gometra, 




Total souls, 
Families, 
Males, 
Famales, 
Under 5 years, 


168 
. 26 

87 

. 81 

25 


From 5 to 10, . 
10 to 20, 
20 to 40, . 
40 to 70, . 

Above 70, . 


. 26 
42 
41 

. 31 
3 




Colonsa. 




Total souls (one 


famUy,) 


. 


6 



Total souls in {larish, • 1000 

The people of the Ulva parish are very healthy, and capable of 
undergoing much fatigue. The language chiefly spoken is Gaelic, 
although there are few, if any, but can speak or understand the En- 
glish. The habits of many of the people are not over industrious. 
Their ordinary food is porridge and milk, potatoes and fish, some- 
times varied with a little mutton or beef. Too much snuff and 
tobacco are used ; and the females have of late been indulging in 
tea» which they readily get in exchange from the merchants for 
eggs. Very few instances occur of habitual inebriation. Taking 
them in mass, their general character as a people may be stated 
as shrewd and calculating; they are also peaceably disposed, and 
religiously inclined. All attend the parish church. There are four 
Dissenters in the parish, and one Roman Catholic. 

ARGYLE. Z 

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354 AHGYLESiriHE. 

There are three schools in the parish, one on the mainland of 
Mull, and two in the island of Ulva. One of these is supported 
by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge ; the other 
two are branches of the parish school. There is a post-office in 
Ulva, at which the letters received and dispatched for the last year 
amounted to upwards of 2600, and 340 newspapers. 
Parish of Tobermory. 

Name^ 8fc. — Tobermory, or " the Well of Mary," takes its 
name from a well hard by the village, called after the virgin. 
This parish extends to about six miles in length and nearly two 
in breadth, and may contain fully twelve square miles. It stretches 
along the Sound of Mull, by which it is separated from Morvern 
on the east, and from Ardnamurchan on the north. Kilmore pa- 
rish bounds it upon the west, and Salen on the south. 

The .town of Tobermory, which is a thriving sea-port, encircles 
the extremity of a fine sheltered bay, and is one of the safest har- 
bours among the western isles, being protected from the Sound of 
Mull by the small isle of Calve, which stretches nearly across the 
entrance, but leaves ample room at its northern point for the 
largest vessels to enter the harbour, though none but small craft 
can effect this at the south-east point, even at high water. The 
British Society for extending the Fisheries and improving the Sea 
Coast of the Kingdom, commenced the town in 1788; and so well 
has the village prospered-, that at that time there were only two 
houises where, at present, there is a population of nearly 1500. 
The British Society and Frederick William Caldwell, Esq. of 
Mishnish, are the proprietors of the village. The town is «ell 
built, and possesses two good quays. The new quay was begun 
in 1835 by the late Colonel Campbell, and now nearly com- 
pleted, which gives four feet of depth at low water, being two feet 
deeper than the old quay. The former is a little to the north of 
the latter, and nearer to the entrance of the bay. The town has 
increased considerably on Mr Caldwell's side, of late years; 
and the harbour is much frequented, both by steamers and sailing 
vessels. The church, which was erected in 1827-28, stands in a 
fine prominent situation behind the principal part of the town, and 
overlooks the bay. There are at present two schools in operation 
in the village, one a Government or Parliamentary school, and at- 
tended, in the winter season, by about 100 scholars; and the other 
a school of industry foryoung females, attended by about 90 scho- 
lars, supported chiefly by the bounty of Her Majesty Queen Ade- 



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TOBERMORY. 355 

laide. A Sabbath school is likewise kept, where about 200 boys 
and girls receive religious instruction. There is likewise a pub- 
lic news-room. 

In the immediate neighbourhood of the village is a beautiful 
loch called Mary's Lake, situated between two finely wooded hills, 
extremely precipitous in their descent. This pleasing spot be- 
longs to Hugh Maclean, Esq. of Coll, who has improved it in a 
manner highly creditable to his taste and judgment, and erect- 
ed the elegant mansion of Drumfin, on the banks of the lake. 

Tobermory is the only village in Mull or the neighbouring 
islands of any consequence. Its trade is chiefly domestic, with a 
tolerably good herring fishery. Here the Sheriff-substitute holds 
a court,' and it is the polling place at county elections for all elec^ 
tors residing in the islands of Mull, Ulva, lona, Tiree and Coll, 
and in Morvern. A branch of the Western Bank is established 
here. 

In the sixteenth century, during the northern retreat of some 
ships forming part of the Spanish Armada, the Florida, one of 
these vessels, was blown up and destroyed off the harbour of To- 
bermory» a plot for that purpose having been planned and executed 
under the direction of Maclean of Dowart, for which he obtained 
a remission under the Privy Seal, as the records thereof bear, 
dated 20th March 1588-89. The timbers of the Florida are still 
occasionally brought up. Part of the wood of this vessel was pre- 
sented by Sir Walter Scott to his Majesty George IV., on his visit 
to Edinburgh. Several attempts were made to recover the sunk 
treasure : one in 1688, by Sacheverel, Governor of Man, who fit- 
ted up diving-bells, and tried them with success at the depth of 
ten fathoms. The report of the country goes, that he got up and 
recovered much treasure. Another attempt was made in 1740, 
by Sir Archibald Grant and Captain Roe, to weigh her by means 
of divers and machinery. This attempt was unsuccessful, but 
some guns were brought up.' In this harbour, the good but 
unfortunate Earl of Argyle may be said to have wrecked both 
life and fortune, in the year 1686;. for,- at this place, he made 
the first landing with his followers, in their fatal invasion, in con- 
cert with the unhappy Duke of Monmouth. On the west side 
of the town, are the remains of an ancient chapel, dedicated to the 
Virgin, and of a fortalice of a circular form, understood to be of 
Norwegian order. About two miles north from Tobermory is 



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356 



ARQYLESHIRE* 



Bloody Bay, so named from a great sea fight about the year 148(^ 
betwixt the then two powerful contending factions in the isles, in 
which the adherents of John were routed with great loss by his 
brother Angus and his followers. 

The population of this parish in 1837, was 1520, and they all 
belong to the Established Church, with the exception of thirteen 
individuals connected with the Anabaptist denomination, who have 
bad a preacher stationed in Tobermory for the last twenty years, 
. There are also twelve Roman Catholics, and one Independent. 
There are in the village two writers, one banker, three surgeons, 
two agents for insurance offices, one distiller, thirteen grocers, of 
which five are spirit-dealers, ten woollen and linen drapers, four mer- 
chants and general dealers, one nursery and seedsman, seven inn* 
keepers, two joiners and cabinet-makers, four tailors, five boot and 
shoemakers, two bakers, besides smiths, plasterers, and masons. 

The great majority of the population consist of the poor and 
working- classes., The original settlers in the village were pretty 
comfortable, as they possessed as much land, at a very low rent, 
as was sufficient to maintain their families for the whole year, if 
properly cultivated ; but, owing to some late arrangements, and 
the increase of population, the original allotments have been sub- 
divided, so that very few of the villagers at present can procure 
from their lands a subsistence for their families, beyond eight or 
nine months of the year. The population are in general of an 
industrious disposition ; but the want of regular employment is 
too favourable for indulging in indolent habits, and to this may 
be ascribed much of the misery to which they are often subject* 
As they cannot get employment at home, many of the young 
people go to the south country, and a few of them are engaged in 
the herring fishery. 

Notwithstanding the diflferent descriptions of character that 
take up their residence in the village, when turned out of their te- 
nements in other parts of the country, it is very seldom that any 
gross crimes are committed ; and as an evidence of this, it may be 
mentioned, that although there is a lock-up-house or jail in To- 
bermory, yet none of the inhabitants of the parish have been con- 
fined there for the last four years, and the upper flat of that jail is 
occupied by the school of industry before noticed. 

There is a considerable proportion of arable land in the parish, 
which in general yields a tolerably good crop of oats and pota- 



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iilALBN. 



357 



toes, and much waste land has beeo brought into a state of culti- 
vation by the Tobermory settlers, since the formation of the vil- 
lage. There are thriving plantations on the estates of Hugh 
M'Lean, Esq. of Coll, and Mr Caldwell of Mishnish in, the 
immediate neighbourhood of the village. 

Part op the Parish op Salen. 

That part of the united parish of Kilninian and Kilmore which 
was cut off to be annexed to the government parish of Salen, con- 
tains a population of about 300 souls, and is bounded nearly as fol- 
lows, by the Salen burn as far as the bridge on. the new line of 
road leading to Knock ; and an imaginary line drawn from the said 
bridge to the head of Loch-nan -gaul, separates Salen from Kil- 
ninian and Kilmore ; and then taking Salen for the centre, and 
with a radius of four miles, describing a segment of a circle from 
Ardnacross, on the Sound of Mull, to Kellan Mill, on Loch-nan- 
gaul, we have the extent of that part of the united parish of Kil- 
ninian and Kilmore, which, quoad spiritualia^ is attached to, and 
forms a part of, this Government parish of Salen. 

The Bay of Aros is by no means deficient in beauty, though 
of a wild character ; and the valley, like the bay, derives an in- 
terest from its castle, pitched in a very picturesque manner on 
the summit of a rocky hill, and said to have been built by Mac- 
Donald, Lord of the Isles, who lived and kept court there. It 
bears the evident traces of being a place of strength, built upon 
a steep rock towards the sea, and looks as if it had been secured 
on the land side by a moat and drawbridge. On the rising 
ground, and overlooking the bay, is the house of Mr Stewart of 
Achadashenaig. 



Having given, seriatim^ detailed accounts of the three parishes, 
and part of a fourth, the observations and remarks following apply 
to the whole. 

Summing up the population of each parish, from a priyate census taken in 

1637, there appears in Kilninian and Kilmore, . . 1920 

Ulva, 1000 

Tobermory, . , 1520 

Part of Salen, 300 

ToUl souls, 4740 

According to Dr Webster *8 account, the population In 1755, was only 2590 

Making since then an increase of 215Q 

And at the period when the last Sutistical Account was framed, vis. 1792-3, 
by a ceusus then uken, the population amounted to . 3281 



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858 ARGYLESHIRE. 

Brought over, . S2&1 

Which, when deducted from this yearns census, . 4740 

Exhibits an increase of 1459 

Population of Kilninian in 1841, • 1794 

Tobermory, . 1971 

Ulva, ... 858 

The whole teinds of the united parish are valued, and exhaust- 
ed, and drawD by tlie present incumbent, the same being modified 
to him by the Court of Teinds on 23d May 1827, amounting to 
L.2d0, 19s. 3i\d. Sterling. Besides this, he receives from the 
heritors a sum of money annually in lieu of manse and glebe. 
The Duke of Argyle is patron. 

The language commonly spoken is Gaelic, although almost all 
understand or speak the English. 

The exports are, kelp, black-cattle, horses, pigs, sheep, and 
wool ; potatoes, bear, and eggs ; and the imports, oatftieal, seed, 
corn, leather, salt, end a variety of merchant goods. 

The roads are extremely bad, and the improvement of them 
proceeds but slowly ; the funds allowed are so disproportionate to 
the extent and surface, and to the expense requisite, that, unless 
aid from Government is obtained to assist proprietors in their 
laudable exertions to benefit the community, in opening up new 
lines and repairing old, there is no hope of any thing like an im- 
provement being made for many years to come. However much 
proprietors may be disposed to come forward, such is the extent 
of the evil, that their individual and unaided efforts are, by the 
magnitude of the lines, and extent of accommodation required, 
completely paralysed. It is humbly thought a little of the public 
money might be advantageously and profitably employed, even in 
a national point of view, in forwarding this very desirable object 

From what has already been said of the soil, agriculture, and 
population, it will be readily believed, that many of the people are 
poor, and the only common fund they have to look to for assist- 
ance, is what is collected for them at the respective churches on 
Sabbaths, together with occasional fines exacted for immoralities ; 
yet such is their spirit of independence, that very few indeed will 
apply for relief to this source, unless under the pressure of actual 
want. 

Wages. — The wages of a man servant for a year may average 
L.6, and a maid servant's LA ; labourers, is. to Is. 3d. per day ; 
and tradesmen, is. 6d. to 2 s. 

There has been a decided change for the better, on this part 



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KILPINAN. 3o9 

of the country, since the preparation of the last Statistical Ac- 
count ; then, the writer thereof prophesied, '^ there seems to be 
little ground to hope for a speedy increase of its population ok* 
prosperity, but rather the reverse." By the census before noticed, 
this prediction will be seen not to have been realized ; and the rent- 
als of estates have been in some instances doubled, nay even aU 
most tripled since then. Much of this is no doubt to be ascribed to 
steam navigation, and the facilities thereby afforded of intercourse 
with all parts in the low countries ; and were the necessary lines 
of road made, and bridges built, low country capital and enter- 
prise would find their way more readily than they have been doing, 
into this district ; the face of the country would undergo a tho- 
rough and beneficial change ; and this portion of the empire, 
hitherto so much neglected, would assume and hold that position 
which the capabilities of its soil, sea coast, and climate so justly 
entitle it to. 

September 1843. 



PARISH OF KILFINAN. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUNOON, SYNOD OF ARGVLE. 

THE REV. JOSEPH STARK, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — Kilfinan is one of the parishes comprehended in the 
district of Cowal. Its name is derived from St Pinan, an eccle- 
siastic of the seventh century, and a disciple of St Columba ; it 
signifies the church or burying^place of St Finatu It is also well 
known in the district by the name of Kerry, or Ceathramh, which 
is a Gaelic word, signifying the fourth part of any thing ; but why 
this name was given to it, I have not been able to learn. 

Extent^ Sfc. — The parish is about 17 miles in length, and va- 
ries from 3 to 5 or 6 miles in breadth. It stretches from south to 
north, — its southern extremity being Aird Lament, or the pro- 
montory of Lament, so called because it forms part of the estate 
of Lament of Lament, whose mansion house is also in the imme- 



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860 ARGYLESHIRE. 

diate vicinity. This southern point is bounded by the sea, which 
separates it from the Island of Arran, the distance being between 
three and four leagues. On the west and north-west, it is bound- 
ed by Loch6ne ; on the north and north-east, by the parishes of 
Stralachlan and Kilmodan ; and on the east, by Loch Riddon and 
part of the Kyles of Bute. 

Topographical Appearances. — The hills in the parish, though 
numerous, are not remarkable for height. The highest are 
those which form the boundary between this and the adjoining 
parish of Kilmodan or Glendaruel. From the summit of this 
ridge of hills, a beautiful view can be obtained, not only of the 
scenery along the Kyles of Bute and the lower part of LochBne, 
but also of several of the Hebrides, rearing their dark mountain- 
ous heads out of the western ocean. The hills generally run in 
a direction from north to south, and are interspersed with valleys 
containing low and arable lands. 

The parish being bounded on the west, south, and east by wa- 
ter, has a great extent of coast, parts of which are steep and rocky 
towards the water ; and other parts consist of low lands or gradual 
declivities, which are mostly arable. Along the coast, there are 
several beautiful bays, though not of great extent, the principal of 
which are the following, viz. Kiltinan Bay, immediately below the 
plac where the church is situated ; Achalick Bay, about three 
miles farther south ; and Kilbride Bay, near the southern extre- 
mity of the parish. There are also several headlands by which 
these bays are embraced. The most notable of these is Airdla- 
mont, or the promontory of Lament, previously mentioned. Near 
the north end of the parish, there is a very remarkable and beau- 
tiful sand-bank, which juts out in a serpentine form almost into 
the middle of Lochfine. This bank is said to be about 1800 yards 
in length, from the shore to its extremity at low water. It goes 
out in an oblique direction, forming with the land on its south side 
an acute angle, and with that on its north side an obtuse 
angle. In spring-tides, it is entirely covered at high water, and 
at three hours after the turn of the tide till low water, it is 
wholly uncovered to within a few yards of its extremity. It seems 
to have been formed by the force of the ebbing tide, which has a 
straight run of ten or twelve miles before it strikes the projecting 
land which forms the root of this bank,'when it naturally sweeps 
along and around the little promontory, carrying with it quantities 



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KILPINAN. 



361 



of sand and gravel, with which the shore abounds, and depositing 
these, in its course, till the bank has thus been extended in the 
form above described. This theory is supported by the fact, thatj 
close along the north or upper side, the water is very deep, while 
on the south or under side it is very shallow, and the ebb is con- 
sequently great, especially at the time of spring tides. As the 
word, in the Gaelic language, descriptive of a projecting ridge or 
bank in the sea, is Oitir^ hence the origin of the name, Otter, 
given to an adjoining estate, and also the title of the family to 
which it belongs, — Campbell of Otter. 

Climate. — The climate is generally mild. In winter the frost 
is seldom severe ; and the snow soon disappears from the low 
grounds, as it does also from the higher lands in the vicinity of the 
loch. 

Quantity of rain which fell at Ballimore, by Thorn's gage. 

1833. 1834. 1835. ' 1836. 1837. 1838. 1839. 



January, 


•70 


9-30 


2-85 


8^50 


3-40 


160 


4-40 


February, . 


6-40 


3-50 


7-20 


310 


6-40 


MO 


5-10 


March, 


1-20 


4-30 


4-65 


6-90 


1-30 


410 


5-50 


April, 


2-40 


•40 


1-90 


3-8 


1-80 


25 


2-20 


May, . . 


3- 


2-80 


7- 


•20 


2-40 


MO 


240 


June, 


5- 


3-80 


1-60 


4. 


2-80 


5-50 


280 


July, 


2-30 


2-80 


4-50 


6-30 


810 


5-60 


4-90 


August, . • . 


8-5 


4-45 


6-10 


3-60 


3-30 


5-90 


5- 


September, 


7-5 


3-60 


6-50 


7-50 


3- 


4-50 


8-50 


October, 


6- 


6-50 


5- 


510 


7- 


7- 


6-70 


November, 


8- 


7-30 


7^25 


6-50 


7-30 


5- 


4-30 


December, 


10-30 


4- 


3-45 


5-70 


4^90 


5-60 


4-90 


Total each year, 


55-40 


52-75 


58. 


60-48 


46-70 


49- 


56-70 


At Greenodcy . 


49-35 


52-50 


6210 


62-10 









Highest 
1837. 



Thermometer. 

Lowest Highest Lowest 



January, 
Febniary, 
March, 
June, . 
July, . 
August, 



45 
49 
45 
69 
72 
70 



1837. 

26 
32 
29 
35 
45 
39 
30 



1838. 



1838. 



48 


19 


40 


19 


56 


24 


64 


35 


73 


46 


63 


41 


50 


30 



Highest 
1839. 

49 
49 
54 
72 
66 
64 
48 



Lowest 
1829. 

25 
26 
25 
40 
46 
39 
31 



December, 50 

The weather is very changeable. Rains are frequent, and 
sometimes heavy. This may be owing, in some measure, to the 
high hills in the surrounding districts, viz. those of Arran on the 
south, and those of Sliabh Ghoil, on the west side of Loch* 
fine, which attract the clouds, and c<iuse them to discharge their 



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362 AEGYLESHIRE. 

contents abundantly on all the adjacent country. Rains come 
most frequently with a south or south-west wind. A west wind 
sometimes brings heavy and frequent showers^ but seldom conti- 
nued rain. The weather is usually cold and dry with a wind from 
the north or east ; and if rain commences from the east, it gene- 
rally continues for five or six hours without intermission. Changes 
of the wind are frequent, particularly from south to west and 
north-west; and these are usually accompanied with changes of 
weather. The prevailing wind is from the south, as are also the 
severest gales which are experienced in this part of the country ; 
but sometimes, very high and hurtful winds come both from the 
west and east 

Hydrography. — There are two small fresh water lochs or lakes 
of nearly equal size in the inland part of the parish. They are 
under half a mile in length, by 200 or SCO yards in breadth. The 
one is three and the other six miles south from Kilfinan. In both of 
them, there is abundance of ^common yellow trout of moderate size. 
There are four streams or burns, besides several smaller rivulets. 
The largest is that which runs from east to west into Lochfine, at 
Kilfinan Bay. In dry weather, there is but little water in it ; but 
with heavy rains, it swells to a considerable height, and rushes 
from the hills with great rapidity. This is also the character of 
all the other streams, one of which joins the loch about four miles 
above Kilfinan, towards the north. The remaining two are south 
from the church, and enter Lochfine at the bays -formerly men- 
tioned. 

Geology, — The rocks throughout the parish are almost all of 
one character. They consist chiefly of the mica*slate rock, in* 
termixed with white quartz, regular veins of which are to be met 
with in the rocks along the coast. The whin or trap rock is scarce, 
being only found in two or three places; but limestone rocks 
of secondary formation abound in the north end of the parish. 
The lime is of good quality, and is suitable both for land and for 
building, though hitherto it has been but little used for either pur- 
pose, except by Mr Campbell of Ballimore, and one or two of 
the farmers in his neighbourhood* It is to be hoped, however, 
that it will soon be more generally used for both purposes, as new 
and comfortable houses for the tenants are much required, and 
without these there cannot be much improvement made in the 
cultivation of the land. 



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KILFINAN. 3^ 

iSoi/.— *There is a considerable variety in the quality of the soil 
throughout the parish, according to the different situations of the 
land. In low and level ground near the sea, there is generally] a 
fine light sharp soil, lying on a subsoil of pure gravel. This 
soil, though not deep, produces good crops; and, when pro- 
perly laid down, it yields excellent grass. There are in several 
places of higher situation, and farther removed from the sea, 
pretty extensive tracts of a kind of mossy soil, parts of which are 
already cultivated, and all of which are capable of being made 
good land by draining and labour, with the addition of a suitable 
quantity of lime. Improvements of this nature have, for several 
years, been carried on to a considerable extent on the estate of 
Mungo N* Campbell, Esq. of Ballimore; and though these are 
attended at first with no small expense, they promise to repay it 
abundantly. 

Zoology. — In all the streams and lakes, there is abundance of 
the common small trout. The streams, however, are not sufii- 
ciently large to admit of sea trout going up for spawning ; though 
it is said, that, in former times, salmon of considerable size 
were much more frequently seen in the pools near the mouth of 
Kilfinan burn, than they have been for many years past. On the 
south side of the Otter sand bank, noticed above, and towards the 
extremity of it, there is an excellent oyster bed, whence are ob- 
tained considerable quantities of oysters of superior quality, which 
are known by the name of Otter oysters. Besides herrings, the 
loch abounds with the commoq kinds of white fish, such as whit- 
ings and cod ; but these are very little sought after, as the her- 
ring-fishers do not think this kind of fishing worth their trouble, 
even when not employed at the herrings. 

Botany, — Under this head there is scarcely any thing worthy 
of notice, the plants in this parish being such as are common in 
almost every part of the Highlands. Among the rarer specimens 
may be mentioned the white foxglove {Digitalis alba.) Nor is 
there any thing remarkable in reference to the woods. In seve- 
ral places, there are enclosures of oak coppice, which are sold and 
cut every twenty years. These are generally on rough grounds, 
and Qp the sides of hills which could not be brought under culti- 
vation. Formerly these woods were valuable to the proprietors as 
a source of income, but of late years bark has fallen to about one- 
half only of what it used to bring. Mixed with the oak there are 



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364 AROYLESHIRE. 

also considerable quantities of ash, birch, and hazel. In other 
places, birch coppice abounds ; but this, being reckoned of little 
or no value, has never been enclosed and protected, and conse- 
quently has not attained to any size. There are also numerous 
plantations throughout the parish, some of which are of older 
growth, and others more lately planted. They consist chiefly of 
larch, silver-fir, oak, ash, and other usual kinds, all of which seem 
to thrive well where they have soil of sufficient depth, without be- 
ing mossy or wet 

11. — Civil History. 

Land-owners, — The number of heritors or. land-owners is ten. 
. Of these the chief are the following, viz. Archibald James La- 
mont of Lament, patron, whose property comprehends above one- 
third of the parish ; Mungo Nutter Campbell of Ballimore ; Mrs 
Ann Campbell of Otter ; John M'lver of Ardmarnock ; and 
Alexander M^Alester of Loup* 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers are not of very 
old date, and they were not, in former times, carefully kept 
They consist of different volumes, containing the minutes of ordi- 
nary meetings of session, register of births and baptisms, and re- 
gister of proclamations and marriages. They have been pretty 
regularly kept since June 1742 till the present year, with the 
exception of the marriage register, which commences in March 
1779. 

Antiquities. — On the margin of the largest of the lakes, or 
lochs already mentioned in the southern division of the parish, 
stand the ruins of an ancient castle, part of the walls of which is 
still pretty entire. It is situated on the estate of Lament, and 
was formerly the residence of a cadet of that ancient family. It 
was destroyed by order of the Marquis of Argyle, in the reign of 
Charles II., as was also the castle, which at that time was the seat 
of the family of Lament, on the point of Toward, opposite Rothe- 
say ; because Sir James Lament of Lament supported the cause 
of that unfortunate monarch. The taking and destroying of these 
castles formed part of the indictment upon which the Marquis was 
afterwards tried and convicted, as appears from the State Trials. 

In this parish there are several of those ancient duns which are 
common in many parts of Argyleshire. These are composed of 
a row of large stones, generally placed in a circular form on some 
hill or eminence. They are supposed to have been places 

4 



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KILFiNAN* 865 

where fires were kindled iu former times for the purpose of warn- 
ing the country and summoning the people to assemble for the 
common defence, on the sudden appearance of an enemy. There 
are also to be seen the remains of what are called borradhs or 
cairns. These were composed of lai-ge piles or heaps of stones, 
in the heart of which were a great number of tall broad stones set 
on end in two rows, and covered above with a roof of other flag- 
stones. The largest of these borradhs, which was about two 
miles north from the church, is thus described. It was near forty 
yards long, and of considerable breadth and depth. At the bot- 
tom, from the one end to the other, there were several small 
apartments, or cells, end to end, each made up of five or seven 
large flags. Each cell was about six feet long by four feet broad, 
and about five feet high. One broad flag made up each side, and 
another covered it above, as a roof, so as to support the stones 
which were heaped above the whole. The cells were not always 
in a straight line from end to end of the borradh. The pile of 
stones has long ago been completely removed for the purpose of 
building dikes ; but a considerable number of the flags are still 
standing, showing distinctly the covered way above described. 
I am not aware that any bones or relics of any kind were 
fottnd when the stones were removed. The remains of another 
of similar construction, but smaller in its dimensions, are to 
be seen about three miles south from the church. It is not 
known with certainty for what purpose they were constructed, or 
to what use they were applied. It has been said by some, that 
they were places where public worship was performed. In several 
places are to be seen large stones standing in a perpendicular po- 
sition. These are sunk to a considerable depth in the ground, 
and are sometimes six or seven feet above it. Perhaps they were 
designed originally to commemorate some important action or 
event which had taken place near to the spot where they are 
erected. In some places, there are to be seen rings or circles of 
stones of a similar description, which are supposed to have been 
Druidical temples or places where worship was performed. 

Mansion Houses, — The principal mansion houses are the fol- 
lowing : Aird Lamont House, the seat of Archibald James La- 
ment of Lament, Esq. near the southern extremity of the parish ; 
Ballimore House, the residence of Mungo Nutter Campbell,' Esq. 
of Ballimore, a chaste and elegant mansion, built about eleven 



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366 ARGYLBSHIRE. 

years ago, and situated near the shore of LochBoe, three miles 
north from the church ; Otter House, the residence of Mrs Ann 
Campbell of Otter, about half a mile below the church on the 
bay of Kilfinan ; and Ardmamock House, belonging to John 
M^ver, Esq. of Ardmamock, near Lochfine, about four miles 
south-west from Kilfinan* These are all commodious and com- 
fortable houses, having been erected (with the exception of Otter 
House) within the last twenty-five years. The church of Kilfi- 
nan, which is presently in a very uncomfortable state, is a plain 
building, long, low, and narrow, according to the ancient mode of 
constructing churches. It is in no respect an ornament to the pa- 
rish. An additional church, neat, comfortable, and commodious, 
has been erected within the last two years, in the south end of the 
parish, on the property of Lament. This church is eight miles 
distant from the church of Kilfinan. It was built by private sub* 
scriptions from heritors and others connected with the parish ; by 
contributions from friends to the cause of Church Extension in 
Rothesay, Greenock, Glasgow, and Paisley ; and by a grant of 
L.174, lOs. from the General Assembly's Church Extension 
Committee. It contains 330 sittings, and its erection has cost up** 
wards of L.600. For some years past, a missionary has been em- 
ployed to labour in that populous district of the parish ; and this 
arrangement, together with the comfortable accommodation pro- 
vided for public worship in the new church, promises, by the bles- 
sing of God, to be highly beneficial to the best interests of the 
population. In the parish there are three corn mills. The only 
manufactory is that of gunpowder. During the course of last 
year, a company in Glasgow erected suitable buildings and ma** 
chinery for this purpose, at a place about six miles south from Kil- 
finan, not far from the Kyles of Bute. The.manufectory has been 
in full operation since the end of the year 1839. 
ni. — Population. 

It appears that the population of this pariah in 1755 waa 1798 

1798, 1417 

1821, 1889 

1881. 2004 

1841, 1816 

No register has hitherto been kept of deaths in the parish. 

Number of persons of both sexes under 7 years of age, 428 

under 12, . 587 

• families in the parish, . , 880 

Proprietors of land of the yearly value of L.50 and upwards, 10 

Gaelic is the language generally spoken, though it may be 



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KILFINAN. 367 

considered as having lost ground in some measure during the last 
forty years, in consequence of increased facilities of intercourse 
with people of the low country, and also in consequence of a con« 
siderable number of families from the low country having of late 
settled in the parish. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — By far the greater part of the parish is billy 
ground, unfit for cultivation, and only adapted for the feeding of 
sheep and cattle.* On each farm there is generally as much ara- 
ble land as supplies the tenant or tenants with food for their fami* 
lies, and with provender for their cattle during winter. Few of 
the tenants understand or practice the improved methods of cul- 
tivating the ground, so as to raise good crops of any thing but po- 
tatoes. They are slow in adopting the modern improvements in 
husbandry, and, indeed, the greater number of them want the 
means of domg it. ' By a proper system of cultivation much bet- 
ter crops might be produced; and had they the necessary means 
of draining and enclosing, much land that has hitherto been un- 
cultivated might be rendered available for crops. 

The average rent for grazing a cow or ox during the year may 
be stated at L.2, and for a ewe or sheep, ds. 

Wagesy Sfc. — The rate of wages for common labourers is, in 
summer. Is. 6d. per day, and in winter. Is. 3d. The fees of farm- 
servants, exclusive of lodging and victuals, are from L. 5 to L. 7 
per half yean Those of female servants are about L. 3 per half- 
year. The duration of leases, which generally does not exceed 
nine years, is too short for inducing tenants with capital to layout 
much of it in improving their farms. Another hinderance to im- 
provement is the want of enclosures to protect the arable lands 
from the cattle, both during summer and winter ; as without enclo- 
sures and subdivision of fields, there can be no proper adherence 
to a rotation of crops. Indeed little attention has hitherto been 
given to the cultivation of crops, the chief dependence of the 
larger tenants being on the prosperity of their sheep and cattle, 
while others who have smaller farms depend chiefly on the pro- 
duce of the herring- fishing, in which they engage during summer. 
Extensive improvements, however, are in course of being made on 
the estate of Mr Campbell of Ballimore in regard to draining, in- 
closing, and planting ; and it is probable that the other proprie- 

* It is computed to contain an area of about G4 square miles, or 40.963 imperial 
acres, one- twelfth of which, at least, may be considered arable. 



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388 ARGYLESHIRE. 

tors, imitating his example, will soon commence and encourages!' 
miiar improvements on their several estates. To have improve- 
ments carried on, it is necessary that each farm be let to one re- 
spectable tenant only, and that for a period of nineteen years, in* 
stead of the old system, still generally followed, of letting a farm 
to two or three tenants jointly for a period of seven or nine years. 
It is necessary that suitable iarm-buildings be erected instead of 
the old black huts which are now on the farms ; — and that due en- 
couragement and assistance be given by the proprietors to their 
tenants in draining and enclosing the arable land. The sheep 
reared in this part of the country are mostly the black-faced breed ; 
and they are in general of a small size, owing to the pasture on 
the hills not being of the best description. Of late years, sheep 
drains have been introduced on some farms for the purpose of im- 
proving pasture, and considerable attention has also been paid to 
the means of improving both sheep and cattle stock. 

Fisheries, — The principal 6shery connected with the parish is 
the herring-fishing in Lochfine, which furnishes employment to 
the greater part of the people during the summer, and is the chief 
employment on which they depend for subsistence. There are 
111 fishing-boats belonging to the parish, each of them requiring 
three men to manage it. The original cost of each boat or wherry 
is about L.40 or L.50, and the full quantity of nets costs nearly 
as much, so that it requires a capital of L. )00 to furnish a boat 
properly for this fishing. A considerable annual outlay is also ne- 
cessary to keep the boats and nets in repair, in consequence of the 
tear and wear to which they are exposed. For upwards of twenty 
years, with the exception of an occasional year, the fishing has not 
been so abundant, and consequently not so productive as it for- 
merly was, so that the greater number of tho^e depending on it 
have been reduced to poverty. The average produce of each 
boat during the above period may be estimated at from L. 50 to 
L. 60 per annum, which, being divided into three shares, affords 
but a small sum for the maintenance of a family, and for providing 
an outfit for another season. And with regard to many boats, the 
sum to be divided is much smaller than what has been stated 
above. 

In the lower end of the parish, in the Kyles of Bute, salmon- 
fishing with bag-nets has been tried for some years past, and vrith 
considerable success. Those caught are usually of good size and 
quality. This fishing has been under the management of one 



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i 



KILFINAN. 369 

man and his family who came from the low country, and who pro* 
secutes this kind of fishing only. The nets used are said to cos 
about L.10 each, and it is generally necessary to provide new ones 
every season. 

V. — Parochial EcoifoM7. 

There is no market^town, and, strictly speaking, no village in 
the parish — the only kind of villages, being the clachans on the se- 
veral farms inhabited by the farmers and their cottiers. Some-* 
times, however, these clachans contain twelve or fifteen families, 
including a population of fifty souls and upwards. There is a 
post-office at Kilfinan, which was established about three years 
ago. It is a sub-office to Cairndow, from which place it is dis- 
tant about thirty miles. Two runners, paid by Government, are 
employed to convey the mail bags from Cairndow to Kilfinan; 
which they do three times a-week. In this part of the country, 
and indeed throughout Argyleshire, there are no turnpike roads* 
The roads are commonly called county roads, which are made and 
kept up by statute labour ; but they are neither well-made nor 
kept in good repair. They are much injured by the heavy rains 
which fall during winter. Suitable and sufficient bridges are built 
where they cross any of the streams above-mentioned. There 
are no quays nor harbours in the parish, except a small pier at 
Otter Ferry. This pier seems to have been built previous to the 
introduction of steam-boats for the convenience of the ferry-boats^ 
as this was the principal ferry for the people of the Knapdale dis- 
trict of Argyleshire when going to the low country* Since thein^ 
troduction of steam-boats, however, travelling by the ferries has 
entirely ceased. 

Ecdesiastical State. — The pariiih church is beautifully situated 
at a little distance from the head of Kilfinan bay. It commands 
a pretty extensive view of Lochfine which, at this place^ is at least 
five or six miles broad. Its situation is as convenient as it could 
be for the majority of the people, though there are but few com- 
paratively within two miles of it. The northern or upper end of 
the parish contains a population of 1000 and upwards. These are 
scattered on each sidp of the church to the distance of between 
five and six miles. The southern or lower end contains a popu- 
lation of 800 and upwards. For the accommodation of these, 
some of whom are as far as eleven miles from Kilfinan, the addi« 
tional church formerly mentioned was built. The parish church 
is a long, low, narrow building, according to the old plan of con- 

ARGYLE. A a 



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•370 AUGYLESHIRB. 

-structing churches. On si corner of the burial aisle belonging to 
the family of Lament, and which is attached to the church, there 
is a stone bearing date 1633. The church was repaired, however, 
or almost wholly rebuilt in the year 1759. It is again in a very 
uncomfortable state, and stands greatly in need of extensive re* 
pieiirs. But as no repairs can ever make it a comfortable church, 
it is to be hoped that, at no distant period, it will be taken down, 
-and a new one erected. It affords accommodation for upwards of 
400 persons : and all the sittings are free. The manse was built 
about forty years ago, and is a good substantial house. It was re- 
paired in the year 1832 on the admission of the present in- 
cumbent; but it is again in want of other repairs. The glebe 
consists of four acres of arable land, together with a servitude on 
the adjoining farm, of grass for two cows and a horse in common 
with the other cattle. The stipend, as localled and modified in 
the year 1837, is \35 bolls, 2 stones, 5 pounds, meal ; 64 quarters, 
3 bushels, 3 pecks, 2^ qts. bear, at the annual fiar prices of the 
county; and L. 10, 3, l/^^* ^^^ teinds are exhausted, — the 
whole being granted by the court when the stipend was modified 
as above in 1837. 

Besides the parish church, the only other place of worship is 
the new church, formerly alluded to as having been erected lately 
in the south end of the parish. It was opened in May 1839. It 
is supplied at present by a missionary, who is supported by contri- 
butions from heritors and parishioners, together with a sum of 
from L.IO to L. 15 granted by the synod of Argyle from their funds. 
A missionary has been employed in that district of the parish for 
above four years ; and, as it has hitherto been found impracticable 
to raise a salary adequate to secure the whole services of said mis- 
sionary for this {)ari$h, he has officiated on alternate weeks here, 
and in a similar situation, on the other weeks, in the district of 
Toward, parish of Dunoon. The whole population belongs to the 
Established Church. There are no Dissenters of any denomina- 
tion in the parish. When the weather is good. Divine service is 
in general well attended, though the majority of the people labour 
under many disadvantages in regard to regular attendance. The 
number of communicants is 305. There is an annual contribution 
for behoof of the General Assembly's five schemes, which will 
average from L.10 to L. 15. There are also occasional collections 
for other charitable and religious objects. 

Education. — There are six schools in the parish, three in the 



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KILPINAN. S71 

upper, and three in the lower end. The branches taught in thein 
are English and Gaelic reading — writing, arithmetic, and some- 
times book-keeping. One of the above is the parochial school, 
which is close by the church of Kilfinan. The salary granted by 
the heritors is the maximum ; but L. 6 of it are allocated to two 
of the branch schools, viz. L.3 to each. Hence the salary received 
by the parochial schoolmaster is L.28, 4s. 4^d. In addition to 
which) he receives the interest of L. 95, 10s., being a sum be- 
queathed by one of the Lament family about a hundred years ago, 
for behoof of the teacher of the parish school. Of this money 
the kirk- session are trustees. The teacher has the other legal ac- 
commodations. He is also session clerk, kirk treasurer, and pre- 
centor, for which a small salary is allowed. The highest rate of 
school-fees is 3s., second rate 2s. 6d., and the lowest rate 2s. per 
quarter. Including several other small sources of emolument, the 
income of the parochial teacher may be estimated at about I^ 50 
per annum. 

All the schools in the lower end of the parish are unendowed, 
except that one of them, which formerly was on the scheme of the 
Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, has an excellent 
croft attached to it, sufficient to keep a cow during summer and 
winter. This is granted by Mr Lament of Lament It is hoped 
that this school, which numbers seventy or eighty scholars during the 
winter and spring quarters, will shortly be admitted on the list of 
schools endowed by the General Assembly. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons regularly 
receiving parochial aid is 34. The funds are distributed half- 
yearly. Sums are allotted to each, according to their circum- 
stances, varying 'from 8s. to L.I : average about 158. The ave- 
rage annual amount of church collections for the poor is from L.25 
to L. 30. The other funds are interest of L. 275, mortcloth 
dues, and marriage money. The sum divided each half-year 
usually amounts to L.2d and upwards. There has hitherto been 
no occasion for procuring funds by any other means. The people 
in general are in poor circumstances; so that, when disease or old 
age comes upon them, they not unfrequently require parochial aid. 
It is chiefly to the aged who have no near relatives able to main- 
tain them, thai such aid is given. They do not apply for it till 
need compels them, and they receive with thankfulness whatever 
sum is granted to them. 

Market.-^There are no fairs held in the parish : except that 



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872 ABGTLBSH1RE. 

twice a-year, viz. about the end of May and October, there is 8 
small cattle market held at Otter Ferry. 

Ifigi$, — At present there are five public-houses in the parish. 
Three of these are such as may be called inns, viz. at Otter Ferry, 
which is four miles north of Kilfinan : at Ktlfinan, and at Millhousey 
which is six miles south of Kilfinan. The two others are ferry 
houses on the Kyles of Bute. 

FtuL — The fuel most commonly "Used by the farmers and their 
cottars, is peats, which are generally to be got on the several iarm& 

April \S^^ 



UNITED PARISHES OF 
KILCHRENAN AND DALAVICH. 

. PRESBYTERY OF LORK, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. WILLIAM ERASER, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Names. — The names Kilcbrenan and Dalavich are of Celtic 
etymology ; the former signifying ** the burying place of Chrenany'' 
the tutelary saint of the parish, according to ancient tradition ; the 
latter signifying ** the 6eld of Avich,** m allusion to a tract of level 
ground lying in the vicinity of a river called the Avich, and near 
one eiLtremity of which flat the parish church is situated. 

The parish is entirely inland, touching in no point upon the 
sea. It stretches' along both sides of the welUknown lake Loch- 
awe, which, with its numerous creeks and wooded islands, to- 
gether with the mountain scenery around it, forms a landscape 
which probably exhibits as rich a combination of beauty and 
grandeur as is to be met with in the Highlands of Scotland. 
The land rises by a gradual ascent on the east side of the 
lake, four miles to the summit of a range of hills, called the 
Muir of Leckan ; and on the west side by a similar ascent, four 
miles to the summit of another range, called the Mid*Muir« 
The Muir of Leckan is 24 miles in length, and lies in the divi- 
sion of Argyle. The Mid-Muir, also 24 miles long) lies in the 



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KILCHRENAN AND DALAVIGH. 373 

district of Lorn. The length of the parish is 15 miles, and the 
medium breadth 8. 

The surface is much diversified with heights and hollows, in- 
tersected by numerous streams, all flowing into Lochawe. Near 
the shore of the lake, there is good natural pasture, much valua- 
ble wood, and some improvable moss. 

II. — Civil History. 

Antiquities. — Opposite to, and in sight of, the parish church of 
Dalavich, lies the beautiful island of Inish-Chonnel, on which 
stands a majestic ruin of great antiquity, covered over with ivy, 
and which was for several centuries the chief residence of the fa- 
mily of Argyle. Near Inish-Cbonnel lies Inish-errich. In this 
isle are the ruins of a chapel, together with an ancient burying- 
ground, still used as such. Not far from this is Eilean 'n tagart 
or Priest's Isle, so called from having been the residence of the priest 
Lochavich, anciently called Lochluina, and which discharges it- 
self into Lochawe by the stream or water of Avich already noticed, 
is a beautiful sheet of water, of a triangular form, about eight 
miles in circumference, full of trout, having one castle and se- 
veral islands, the resort of gulls, cranes, water-eagles, and wild- 
ducks. Near this lake lay the scene of an ancient Celtic poem, 
translated by Dr Smith of Campbeltown, called Cathluina, or the 
conflict of Luina ; and in the lake is an island, the scene of an- 
other poem, called Laoi Fraoich, or the Death of Fraoch. Many 
places in this neighbourhood are still called after the names of 
some of Ossian's heroes. 

Parochial JUffisters. — The session records or minute books are 
from 1707 to 1731, and from 1755 to 1843. Register of births, 
from 1710 to 1723, and from 1751 to 1843. Registers of mar- 
riages, from 1707 to 1723, and from 1755 to 184a Poor's roll 
book, from 1803 to I84a Cash book, from 1788 to 184a They 
have all been regularly kept since 1803. 

Principal Land'-awners. — These, with their valuations, are as 
follows : 

The Marquis of Bretdalbane, L 51 7 6 

Neill Malcolm, Esq. of PokaUoeh, . 7D 2 9 

Robert Campbell, Esq. of Sonachan, . 25 l7 11 

Alexander Campbell, Evq. of Monzie, . 15 5 

N. B. The whole valued rent of both parishes, 230 18 9 

Mamum Houses* — These are, Eridine House, the seat of Mal- 
colm of Poltalloch ; and Sonachan House, the seat of Campbell 
of Sonachan. 



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374 AIIGYLESHIRB^ 

III. — Population. 

Amount of population in 1801, . 1052 

1811, . 1093 

182U . 1071 

1831, 1096 

1841, 894 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture, — Draining has been lately carried on to some extent 

Manufactures. — Tliere is in the parish a work for the manufao 
tiire of pyroligneous acid, in connection with an extensive secret 
work, at Camlachie, in the suburbs of Glasgow. The work is 
conducted by Stewart TurnbuU, Esq. Bonhill Place, Dumbarton- 
shire, and is erected on the property of Mr Campbell of Sonach- 
an, from whom Mr TurnbuU has a lease of the ground on which 
it stands. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Ecclesiastical Stofe.— *The whole population belongs to the Es- 
tablished Church, with the exception of one family, consisting of 
two or three individuals. Teinds or victual stipend, 131 bolls, 1 
firlot, oatmeal. Vicarage or money stipend, L.I8, Ids. 7-|\d. 

The glebe is about 10 acres in extent ; value, as returned in 
1836, to the Religious Instruction Commissioners, about L. 11. 

The manse was built in 1 802. It is very damp, and falling 
much into decay. 

Education, — There are three parochial schools, and at present 
two private ones. One additional school is required. Salary of 
Kilchrenan parochial schoolmaster, L.17, 2s. ; salaries of the two 
Dalavicb parochial teachers, L.17, 48. O^d. ; L.17, 10s. Kilchre- 
nan school-fees, L.d; Dalavich school-fees, L.10; L.7. The 
Kilchrenan parochial teacher has, besides the above, Lbll, 10s., 
L.IO of which sum is the interest of mortified money for whicW 
he is bound to teach as many of the poorest of the children upon 
the Marquis of Breadalbane's property, as it will educate. The 
Dalavich parochial' teachers have, besides the above, L. 1, 15s.; 
and L. 1 respectively. 

P470r.— The average number of persons receiving parochial aid 
is 20. They receive on an average 12s« per annum. The average 
annual amount of contributions for their relief is L. 15, whereof 
L. 5 is from church collections, and L. 10 is the interest of morti- 
fied money. 

Inns. — There are three inns. Their effects on the morals of 
the people are most injurious. 

Libraries, — Two parochial libraries, one in each of the united 



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KILCURENAN AND DALAVICH. '375 

parishes, and consisting entirely of theological works, were esta-i 
blisbed in 1832. The one consists wholly of Gaelic publications; 
the other contains both Gaelic and English works. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

The practice of illicit distillation prevailed at one time to a 
very great extent. The present incumbent used every endeavour 
to put a stop to it^ both by private and public remonstrance, and 
by the exercise of church discipline ; but all his efforts proving 
fruitless, he had no alternative but to represent the matter to the 
Board of Excise, who effectually put it down in 1829. It Jbas, 
however, of late, (but to a very slight extent) been resumed. 
He has always found it not merely to have a most demoralizing 
effect upon the parishioners — being the fruitful source of drun- 
kenness. Sabbath desecration, and other vices, but to be most 
ruinous to the temporal interests of those engaged in it. 

There are two churches, upwards of nine miles distant from 
each other, whereof the one was erected about seventy-two years 
ago, and the other a year thereafter. Both are in good repair, 
and comfortable. In each there is service every alternate Sab- 
bath. Thus, all of the parishioners, (with the exception of a very 
small portion of them, who reside about half-way between the two 
churches, and who, although not legally entitled to sittings in 
both of them, yet in general avail themselves of the opportunity of 
attending both, which their local situation affords them,) — are de- 
prived of the means of public worship and religious instruction to 
an extent which operates most injuriously on their moral and spi- 
ritual interests. The present incumbent occasionally preaches in 
both parishes on the same day ; but from the distance, and the 
state of the roads, can do so but seldom. 

The manse is situated between the two churches, being a mile 
distant from the one, and about eight miles from the other. It 
stands in a sweet and sequestered spot upon the summit of a slope 
close by the lake, embosomed in wood, the planting of the father 
and immediate predecessor of the present minister. 

From a list of the parishes of Scotland, arranged under the 
beads of the presbyteries to which at the time they respectively 
belonged, appended to Dundas of Philipstown's Abridgement of 
the Acts of the General Assembly, it appears that the parish of 
Innishail, which borders upon that of Kilchrenan, was then annex- 
ed to it and Dalavich, and included along with them under the 
pastoral superintendence of one clergyman ; and, moreover, that 



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376 ARQYLESHIRE. 

all the three, with the parish of Clachan Dysart, generally and 
better known by its modern appellation Olenorcbay, lay witluo 
the bounds of the Presbytery of Inverary. At what period Is- 
nishail was disunited from Kilchrenan and Dalavich, and conjoin- 
ed with Clachan Dysart into one parochial chaige; and at what 
period all of them were detached from the Presbytery of Inverary, 
and transferred to that of Lorn, the writer of this has not the 
means of ascertaining. 

April 184a 



UNITED PARISH OF 
KILLEAN AND KILCHENZIE. 

PRESBYTERY OF KtNTYRE, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. D. MACDONALD, MINISTER. 



L— Topography and Natural Histobv. 

Etjfmology. — Killean probably derives its name from St KU* 
UaUy who, in the latter end of the seventh century, travelled from 
Scotland, the place of his nativity, and preached the gospel with 
such success among the eastern Franks, that he converted vast 
numbers of them from Paganism to Christianity.* The denomi- 
nation of the parish is also very descriptive of the local situation 
of the old parish church, whose walls, of a crucial form, are still 
entire,— the name being, in this view, compounded of Ct/and Ab- 
hainuj a river, and signifying river churchyard A small river or 
rivulet forms the northern boundary, which, together with a 
tributary stream, surrounds the site of the church and burial 
ground. 

Kilchenzie, in Gaelic Kilchaoinicfij is evidently derived from 
St Kenneth, to whom the church must have been dedicated 
as its tutelar patron. Of his history I have no knowledge, 
there being neither oral tradition nor any written records in the 
parish to throw light upon the subject. He must, howevert 
have been a saint of considerable celebrity, as there is a small 

* See Mosheim'b EocleaiasUcal History, Vol. iL Part 1. 

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KII.LEAN AND KILCHENZIE. S77 

island upon the coast of Mull, called Kenneth's Isle, with a ruin- 
ous chapel, where^ it is said, lie lies buried. In this event, he 
must have been one of those zealous missionaries who issued from 
the celebrated monastery of lona to propagate the gospel through 
Scotland and its adjacent isles. 

Boundaries^ Extent^ 4^. — The united parish lies on the west- 
ern coast of the peninsula of Kintyre, and contains the most valu- 
able and improvable proportion of the soil on the west side of the 
district from Tarbert to the southern extremity of the parish. 

Its length, by the measurement of the only high road in the 
parish, which leads from Tarbet to Campbelton, is 18 miles, and 
its breadth may be safely computed at A^ miles. The parish con- 
tains an areaof 81 square miles, or 51,840 acres, of which it is 
calculated 5000 or 6000 acres are arable, and occasionally sub- 
jected to the operations of the plough. 

The general aspect of the parish is rather tame and uninterest- 
ing, with very little variety of scenery, destitute of woods and in- 
closures, gradually rising from the level of the sea to the height 
of 700 or 800 feet, — diversi6ed and intersected by some heights 
and hollows, three narrow glens, and various streams. The lower 
part of the hills sloping towards the shore, occasionally half-a-mile 
in ascent, is uniformly cultivated, and produces plentiful crops 
of oats, bear, potatoes, pease^ and beans. The higher ground 
beyond the region of cultivation is naked, bleak, and sterile, 
covered with stinted heath, generally interspersed with detach- 
ed spots of coarse grass, sheep fescue sprits, rushes, and gall, 
a species of alpine myrtle. The hills range from north to 
south, and are pretty uniform in height, with the exception of 
Beinn-an-tuirc, or Wild Boar's Mountain, at the head of Glen 
Barr, which elevates its heath-covered summit 2170 feet above 
' the level of the sea, being 906 feet lower than the Paps of Jura, 
which lie to the north-west The gradual ascent of Beinn-an-tuirc 
makes it appear, at a distance, less conspicuous than other hills of 
the same altittide, which rise abruptly from their base. 

In the northern extremity of the parish, Runahaorine point, a 
narrow neck of mossy land, highly improvable, projects one mile 
into the sea, immediately opposite to the north end of the Island 
of Gigha, which, together with an adjacent promontory in the op- 
posite parish of Kiiberry, forms the entrance into West Loch TaN 
bet from the Atlantic Ocean. As the coast gradually stretches 



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^78 ARGYLESHIRB. 

to the south, it occasionally exhibits to the view saody bays 
and low rocky headlands, the latter of which are frequently 
composed of red sandstone, alternating with puddingstone, mica 
imbedded with veins of quartz, veins of basalt, and a few detached 
blocks of the same scattered along the shoTe,-*whinstone, alter- 
nating with basalt, sandstone, and red shiver. 

Towards the southern extremity of the parish, at the termina- 
tion of Bealochintie bay, andjwhich comprehends nearly a circuit 
of two miles, the coast begins to assume a more bold and rugged 
aspect. A promontory of detached rocks and loose stones of im- 
mense magnitude project into the sea, which seem, since the crea- 
tion, to have set the utmost efforts of the waves at defiance. 

It may be generally observed, that, wherever the coast is most 
exposed to the billows of the ocean, nature has opposed the 
strongest barrier. Thus, in as far as protected by the adjacent 
islands of Gigha, Cara, Jura and Islay, the coast is low, and the 
sea, by a gentle undulation, gradually exhausts its violence on a 
sandy beach, or dashes its sprays against low rocky headlands. 
But, beyond the reach of such protection, nature has opposed a 
more bold and elevated front 

In the immediate vicinity of the sea, and throughout the whole 
extent of the parish, a narrow stripe of low alluvial land, edged by 
an indented declivity, bears evident traces of having been at one 
period occupied by the sea. The general belief among the 
aged inhabitants is, that the sea is gradually retiring from the 
land. In confirmation of this belief, the bank or sloping declivity 
which forms the boundary of the level land occasionally assumes 
a shelving appearance, and in such places as the sea has encoun- 
tered obstruction from projecting precipitous rocks, they have 
formed an irresistible barrier against any encroachment of the 
ocean ; but where no such interruption occurs, the waves seem to 
have forced a passage farther inland. 

Along the shore, the remains of some rude circular inclosures 
are still visible, which, from their appearance and position, must 
have been at one period surrounded by the sea. 

In the centre of the parish, and in the immediate neighbour- 
hood of the sea, an aggregate of pyramidical rocks occur, from 
which the ocean has evidently receded. In the fissures of these 
rocks, several acres beyond the sea-mark, quarriers have fre- 
quently dug out fossil bivalved shell fish, of a species not now to 



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KILLEAN AND KILGHSNZIE. 9T9 

be found along the coast of the parish, but abundant in Loch 
Tarbet, and the eastern shores of the peninsula. 

A few caves are to be met with along the shore, but do not me« 
rit any particular description* Bealochachaochean, one of the 
largest, contains a spring of excellent water, without any visible 
outlet. 

As no division of the parish is indented or intersected by an arm 
of the sea, neither harbour nor safe anchorage is to be found along 
its coast, particularly when the wind, as it frequently does, blows 
from the west In this event such vessels as venture upon the 
coast in the spring and summer seasons to land coals, and ship 
potatoes for the English and Irish markets, are abruptly obliged 
to weigh anchor and sail to the opposite island of Gigha, where 
they lie in security till such time as the wind blows from a more 
favourable direction. 

The sound between the mainland and the adjacent islands of 
Gigha and Cara abounds with sunk rocks and shelves which some- 
times prove fatal to vessels* 

Climate^ 8fc. — The climate, owing to the proximity of the parish 
to the Atlantic Ocean, is rather humid, but less so than the north<« 
em and mountainous districts of the county, which are sometimes, 
during the spring and autumn seasons, deluged with torrents of 
rain. From the want of shelter, however, the western peninsula 
of Kintyre is more subject to stormy weather, and sudden changes 
of climate. During the winter season, and the vernal and autum«* 
nal equinoxes, a mild day is frequently succeeded by furious and 
tremendous tempests of north or north-west winds. 

The sudden changes of the weather affect the constitutions of 
the natives with various diseases, such as inflammations, pulmo*v 
nary affections, and rheumatism. Typhous fever and other epi* 
demic diseases are becoming prevalent, which, it is believed, have 
been introduced into the parish by Irrsh vagrants who are conveyed 
by steam-boats to Campbelton, and itinerate though the parish, 
begging their way from house to house. 

It is universally admitted that the natives were much more 
healthy» thirty years ago, than at present, and that many of 
them are attacked with diseases which were then only known by 
name. However, a few instances of longevity occasionally occur. 
One woman died, three years ago, at the advanced age of 103 
years ; and five venerable old men are just now in life whose unit-* 
ed ages amount to 435. 



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880 ARGYLE8HIRE. 

Hydrography. — The moors abound with lochs or lakes, but 
none of any extent or celebrity ; and the few riyers in the pa- 
rish, which collect in the hills, and issue from ravines and tribu- 
tary streams, ought properly to be denominated rimlets. The 
largest, which runs through Glenbarr for a course of three miles, 
and falls into the Atlantic, abounds with small salpon and grilse. 

Mineralogy. — No mines of any description have hitherto been 
discovered in the parish ; but it is supposed, from the appearance 
of the soil, that it contams coaL A discovery of this nature 
would prove a great blessing to the natives, as peats or turf, the 
only fuel, are scarce, and at a great distance. 

Veins of limestone frequently occur both in the hills and along 
the shore, of a bluish granular texture, sometimes reposing upon 
a bed of granite. 

Zoology. — It cannot be said that the parish of Killean is re* 
ftiarkable for breeding any species of cattle of peculiar quality, 
size, or value* The black-cattle uniformly consist of an ill*sbap- 
ed, small-boned breed of the Highland species, always housed at 
night, and of course not in such repute for the market as those 
outliers reared* in the upper districts of the county. They are, 
however, easily supported, and, when well fed, very profitable for 
the dairy. 

The small breed of the old white-faced Highland sheep, whose 
6esh was considered so tender and delicate, and wool so superior 
in quality, is now extinct, and the prevailing stock consists of a 
black-faced breed, said to be originally imported from Moffat 

Very few hogs are reared in the jiarish, and such as the far- 
mers fatten for the use of their families setem to have been origi- 
nally imported from Ireland, and are more distinguished for sixe 
than any peculiar shape or quality. 

The formers have been, within the last twenty years, very inde- 
fatigable in improving their breed of horses, by introducing into 
the parish heavy low country stallions, and have succeeded well in 
rearing powerful and large draught horses well adapted for farming 
operations. 

The wild quadrupeds of the parish are, hares, badgers, wild- 
cats, martens, polecats, otters, weasels, small white ermine shnilar 
to the weasel in shape and habits, but of a lesser size. 

The mole has not as yet made its appearance in the parish ; but 
havings several years ago, passed the narrow isthmus of Tarbet, it 



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KILLRAN AND KILCHENZIB. 



3S1 



is gradually progressing to the south, and will, in all probability, 
ere long overrun the whole peninsula of Kintyre. 

Although a few roes are to be seen in the woods of West Ijoch 
Tarbet, yet none of them have found their way farther south, at 
least, on the west coast of Kintyre.* 

Ornithology. — Vast flocks of granivorous birds congregate, in 
the winter season, from' the northern and woody districts of the 
county, to pick up such wild seeds as nature has liberally j^rovided 
for their sustenance, — a wise provision of the All-bountiful Creator, 
not only to feed the fowls of the air, but perhaps to prevent the 
increase of noxious weeds. 

Many migratory birds and some indigenous to Scotland do not 
frequent the district, which may be attributed in a great measure 
•o the scarcity of wood. — The following catalogue comprehends 
all the variety of this beautiful part of the creation which visit the 
parish, and may serve as a specimen for all Kintyre. 



Roek-eAgle 
Osprey or sea-eagle 
Goshawk 
Sparrow-hawk 
Gentil faleon 
Buxzard 
Kite or glede ' 
Merlin 
Gray owl 
RaYen 

Carrion crow 
Hooded crow 
Jackdaw 

Cornish chough or red- 
lesiced crow 



Maffpie 

Cudccoo 

Landrail 

Partridge 

Blackcock 

Moor grouse or red-cock 

Golden plover 

Lapwing 

Woodcock 

Cooimon snipe 

Jack snipe 

Curlew 

Whimbrel 

Sanderling 

Sandpiper 

Rock-pigeoB 

Wood-pigeon 



Fieldfare 

Blackbird 

Song thrush 

Throstle or missel thrush 

Red-wing throstle 

Ring-ouzel 

Waterouael 

Baldcoot 

Snow flake 

SkyeUrk 

Titldfk 

Rock-lark 

Goldflnch 

Chaffinch 

Greenfinch 

Grey linnet 

Larger redpole 

Lesser redpole 

Twite or moor linnet 

Yellow hammer 

Mountain finch 

Bunting 

Hedge sparrow 

House sparrow 

Cock of the north 

Common wren 

Golden-crested wren 

Yellow or willow wren 

Tom tit 

Long-tailed titmouse 

White or pied wagtail 

YeHow wagtail 

Gray wagtail 



Sedge warbler 

Pettychapa 

Whinchat 

Wheatear 

Reedsparrow 

Blackcap 

Bullfinch 

Chimney swallow 

Martin swallow 

Swift swallow 

Sand 8walk>w 

Swan 

Wild-goon 

Barnacle 

Solan gooae 

Tufted duck 

Long-tailed duck 

Mallard 

Teal 

Wii 



Heron 

Shieldrake 

Contionuit . 

Shag 

Gulls oftarious sorts 

Puffin 

Stormy petrel 

Auks, as puffin, rasor-bill, 

guillemot 
Scaup duck 
Gold«ii-eye dnck 
Sea-parrot 



* Since writing the above, the mole has advanced into the parish. It is a very sin- 
gular eircumsUnee in the natural history of the mole, that it travels by the hills, and 
colonises the sterile districta before It attacks cultivated kind. 



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8B2 ARGYLESHIRR. 

Tuftle dove White throat £iderduck Surlhig* 

Three species of serpents occur in the parish, viz. the ringed- 
snake, destitute of poisonous fangs ; the Coluber berus^ adder or 
viper, extremely venomous, and sometimes more than two feet in 
length ; and the AnguU fragiUs^ commonly known as the slow 
worm, but apparently harmless. 

The most destructive and pernicious reptile to young corn, after 
it begins to germinate, is the grubworm, generated by cockchaf- 
fers, particularly after clover lea and a moist spring. Several ex- 
pedients have been attempted to extirpate them, but hitherto with- 
out effect. In some seasons, they commit such ravages as to com- 
pel those who suffer most from their depredations to plough up 
fields that have been sown with bear or oats, and substitute pota- 
toes instead of a culmiferous crop, which disarranges their ordinary 
rotations. 

Ichthyology* — A considerable - variety of trouts abound in 
all the moor lakes, but they furnish no species which are of any 
importance in an economical point of view. Neither charr, pike, 
nor perch, are to be found in any of the Kintyre lochs, rivers, or 
streams. But the sea along the west coast furnishes a great va< 
riety of nutritive fish, such as red rock cod of the largest size, ling, 
tusk, skate, plaice, lythe or white pollock, haddocks, whitings, 
mackerel, seath, coal fish, conger eels, and, to all appearance, 
turbot and soles, were the people acquainted with the particular 
banks which they frequent, and the proper mode of fishing for 
them. Shoals of herring are occasionally observed in the months 
of July and August, passing to the south, pursued by aquatic birds, 
whales, porpoises, and the all-devouring cod. The natives of the 
parish never engage in the herring-fishing, and allege as an excuse 
that the currents are too strong and rapid for nets to remain steady. 
It must, however, be acknowledged, that they are very unskilful 
fishermen; and that the great impediment against prosecuting 
fisheries with any prospect of success, is the poverty of the inha- 
bitants, and want of capital to commence the lucrative business. 

* OceasioDally migrating to the Western Islen 

The nocturnal goatsucker does not occur on the west side of Kintyre, but plen- 
tifullT on the east. The bittern, which old people remember as common forty years 
ago, has utterly forsaken the parish ; a proof that marshy land has been well-drained. 
Wftbin the last three years, a few detached quails have been seen in autumn, proba- 
bly migrating to a milder climate. The pheasant, which was introduced to the woods 
at Largie by the late proprietor, promises to multiply. After a few yesrs^ trial, the 
pheasant is not multiplying. It is supposed that its eggs are destroyed by black game 
and Termin. 



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KTLLEAN AND KILCHENZIE. 383 

Lobsters and crabs of the largest size are numerous, and gene- 
rally used as bait for fishing cod. One family in the parish have 
of late made it their sole business to catch lobsters, and send them 
by steamers to the Irish and Liverpool markets, from which they 
have derived considerable profit With the exception of a few 
large brown mussels adhering to sunken rocks, no bivalved shell- 
fish of any description are to be found along the coast. In shallow 
bays, a few prawns and shrimps occur, and great shoals of sprats 
and herring fry« 

Botany, — No plants are to be found in the parish, but such as 
are occasionally to be met with in every district of the Highlands 
bordering upon the Atlantic Ocean. The botanist will sometimes 
find along the rocks of the shore, Crambe maritima or sea-cale, 
Eringium or marine holly, Epilobitan^ crane-bill geranium, creeping 
convolvulus, scarlet poppy, starworts, rose campions, St John's 
wort, musk roses, bog pimpernel, sea bind-weed, scurvy grass 
maiden -hair, celadine, and many others. 

With the exception of a little brushwood in hollows and glens 
at a distance from the sea, the parish is destitute of natural wood. 
Within the last thirty years, a considerable extent of land has 
been laid down with plantations of larch and other forest trees, 
upon the properties of the late Sir Charles McDonald Lockhart, 
and Mr Macalister of Glenbarr, and are succeeding beyond ex« 
pectation. They are regularly thinned, and kept in good order. 
The thinnings from the plantations at Largie now supply the ten* 
ants of the parish with wood for building houses and some farming 
utensils. 

The soil of the parish is well adapted for the growth of forest 
trees ; but, except in situations such as Largie and Glenbarr, pro- 
tected from the influence of high winds and sea air, the climate is 
very ungracious for raising timber of any description. The want 
of shelter, and the nipping cold which accompany north-west winds 
in the end of spring and beginning of summer, and check early 
vegetation, appear to be more pernicious to the growth of trees 
than sea air. The trees which thrive best are, ash, plane tree, elm, 
beech, mountain ash, alder, and black Italian poplars. In all pro- 
bability, the marine pineaster would suit the climate, because in 
the opposite island of Gigha, which is exposed to every blast that 
blows across the Atlantic, a few which have been planted among 
larches, &c, seem to have retained their foliage, and flourish with 
vigour among other trees of a dwarfish and withered appearance. 



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384 ARGYLESHIRE. 

It is a welUascertained fact, that it is now a vain attempt to 
rear trees, even in places where, at some former period, they had 
come to perfection, and obtained a great growth. Some bogs and 
morasses in the immediate vicinity of the sea still exhibit immense 
trunks of oaks, and fir trees imbedded several feet below the sur- 
face. 

II. — Civil Histobv. 

AfUiquities. — It is believed, and pretty well authenticated by the 
ancient history of Scotland, that the peninsula of Kintyre and ad- 
jacent isles were at one period the property of the Macdonalds, 
Lords of the Isles. 

In the centre of the parish, upon His Grace the Duke of Ar- 
gyle's property, the rude remains of Dundonald, or Macdonald's 
Castle, are still visible, from which, if any credit can be attached to 
a kind of doggerel rhyme in the Celtic language, the potent and 
turbulent proprietor was in the habit of granting charters for land 
to his obsequious Vassals and dependents ; and where tradition 
says he resided, when he annually visited the parish, to collect his 
rents in kind, and administer his arbitrary commands. In the 
neighbourhood there is a projecting cliff, called stae-a chrochaire^ 
or hanfftnanU rockj where, it is said, criminals were suspended by 
the neck with very little ceremony.* 

Such are the traditions which were in circulation through the 
parish, thirty years ago ; but now, as the people are becoming 
more enlightened by education, instead of swallowing with avidity 
legendary tales, their leisure hours are occupied in the rational 
amusement of reading. A few obelisks, of rude unpolished stone, 
and evidently sepulchral monuments, are scattered through the 
parish. The most conspicuous has beea erected in the neigh- 
bourhood of a ruinous building, and measures 16 feet from the 
surface ; a grave at the base of the obelisk, covered with turf, is 
18 feet 7 inches in length, and 4^ in breadth ! 

Barrows or tumuli are sometimes to be found not far from the 
shore. In one or two which have been opened, nothing was dis- 
covered but a few human bones, almost reduced to ashes^ and 

* The great Macdonald^s charters or grants of lands are said to have ran as follows : 
Tha Mise MacDhomhnuil a-M*Shuidfae air Dud Domhnuil a-tabhairt coir dfauit-ee 
air do bhaile o*n diugh gus a'mahrich agus na h*oi]e la na dheigb eo fbad* i^ a bhioa 
Ion agad do MhacDhomhnuil mor nan eileana. 

I, Mao Donald, sitting upon Dundonald, give you a right to your farm frofn ihia 
day UU to-morrow, and every day thereafter, so long as you have food for the gi«a| 
MacUonatd of the Isles. 



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KILLEAN AND KILCHENZIE. 385 

some chips of burned wood, which sanctions the belief that our 
forefathers were in the practice of burning their dead. 

In the recess of a soft freestone rock, not far from the sea, 
where a farmer was lately preparing to erect a cart shade, and had 
commenced to level the bottom, he met with a great collection 
of sea shells, and discovered in the face of the rock several aper- 
tures, or square holes, crammed with human bones. He imme- 
diately desisted from his operations, and left undisturbed the re- 
positories of the dead. 

In the south division of the parish, two circular inclosures, com- 
monly known as Dunfhtnrij or FingaVsfort, and Dun^nafoghmhar 
or Giaiifs forif attract the attention of the traveller. They seem 
to have stood for many ages, and baffle conjecture to account 
for their origin. The vulgar, who are fond of the marvellous, con- 
sider them ancient residences of Fingal and his giants, — and the an- 
tiquary, Druidical places of worship. At this distant period of 
time, without written records to throw any light upon the subject, 
it is very difficult to arrive at any satisfactory conclusion with re- 
gard to their original design. As inclosures of a similar nature 
frequently occur in the Highlands of Scotland, and have been uni- 
formly erected upon elevated situations, it is by no means impro- 
bable that they might have been originally intended as places of 
temporary retreat and security for some of the domestics and cattle 
of the natives, when engaged in battle with their enemies. 
III. — Population. 



Year. 


Males. 


Females. 


Total. 


1801, 


1198 


1322 


2520 


1811, 


1411 


1523 


2984 


1821, 


1689 


1667 


3306 


1831, 


1414 


1452 


2866 


1841, 


. 


. 


2401 



Baptisms have annually averaged 84 for the last three years* 
and marriages 22. Present number of families, 466 ; bachelors 
upwards of forty- five years of age, 6 ; and old maids do. 57. 

The causes of the decrease of population can only be attri- 
buted to emigration and the suppression of smuggling. Emi- 
gration has been partially carrying on since 1821. Prior to 
the year 1821, a majority of cottagers and day-labourers 
supported large families by the profits of smuggled whisky, 
— a trade which, though lucrative in itself, proved very inju- 
rious to their morals. A professed smuggler could clear, free 
of all expenses, 10s. per week, which enabled him to keep a horse 
and an additional cow. The necessary assistance of a wife could 

AR6YLE. 3 b 



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886 ARGYLESHIUE. 

not be dispensed with ; hence, early marriages became general, 
and rapidly increased the population. But, fortunately for the 
morals of the lower orders of the community, the evil has in a 
great measure been remedied, and smuggling almost suppressed, 
by the vigilant exertions of excise officers, aided in the discharge 
of their duty by crews of revenue cutters. 

Cfiaracter of the People^ Sfc. — The natives of the parish are, in 
general, a tall, raw-boned, plodding, persevering, and robust race. 
From constant exposure to a variable climate, rather sallow in 
complexion. In their habits, they are sober, honest, and very in- 
dustrious ; liberal to the poor of the parish as well as itinerant 
beggars. In cases of emergency, when a neighbour has been re* 
duced by untoward circumstances to a state of privation and po- 
verty, they have been often known to contribute, without any so- 
licitation, a sum of money for his relief.* 

The farmers, with a few exceptions, enjoy, in a reasonable de* 
gree, the comforts and advantages of society. They are, upon 
the whole, comfortably enough lodged, and well fed with whole-» , 
some and substantial food. Within the last three years, a few 
have become discontented with their lot and circumstances. They 
complain of high rents, and apparently with some reason. At the 
same time, it is but an act of justice to the landlords to say, 
that the majority of them are disposed to show their tenants every 
indulgence. It may be said that servitude is nearly abolished. 
The residing tenant has the first offer of a lease for an equivalent 
rent, and it is seldom that a case of insolvency occurs. If some 
farms have been set beyond their value, and the fact cannot be 
denied, the tenant himself is more to be blamed than the pro- 
prietor of the land. When the lease of a farm expires, it is a 
common practice to offer a higher rent for a neighbour's farm 
than the produce of the land can afford to pay. Little blame can 
be attached to a landlord for setting his lands to the best advan* 
tage, particularly when a substantial farmer, possessed of capital, 
comes forward with a higher offer of rent. But, when the sea- 
sons are adverse, and markets low, tenants frequently complain of 
oppression, because reductions of rent, which they have often ob- 
tained, are not permanent. 

The most numerous class of the community are cottagers, or 

* Since the unfortunate disruption in the church, a section of the people hare be* 
connc discontented with their lot, and hostile to religious establishineots. 



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KILLBAN AND KILCHBNZIE. 387 

day-labourers, and the fact cannot be concealed, that the privations 
under which they labour are truly deplorable* 

Three or four poor families frequently congregate into one 
farm, live in wretched hovels, rudely constructed without any 
mortar, one division of which is occupied by the family, and the 
other converted into a kind of byre, and often no partition in the. 
hut to separate the human from the brute creation. They hold 
their dwelling-houses from year to year, and the tenants, who are 
their landlords, can dispossess them at pleasure. A rent of L.4 
or L.5 Sterling is exacted for a house kept in bad repair, a small 
kail garden, the scanty pasture of a cow, and some ground for 
planting potatoes, in the outskirts of the farm. Their meagre 
diet consists of potatoes, sour milk, and, when they can afford it, 
a little oat bread and porridge. Animal food is a luxury in which 
they seldom indulge. Such as can salt a little fish occasionally 
use a change of diet. 

Their sole dependence for payment of rent is upon the earnings 
of their children, whom they hire out as servants through the dis- 
trict. For the honour of human nature, it should be recorded, 
that their sons and daughters would conceive themselves deficient 
in gratitude and natural affection, did they not reserve a portion- 
of their wages to pay house rent for their parents. 

For culinary purposes, they sometimes use a species of wild 
leek, which grows among the rocks of the shore ; the juice of 
bogbean for rheumatism, and wild thyme for headaches. They 
also ascribe great virtue to the essence of ground ivy and cen- 
taury. At one period, whisky was considered a sovereign remedy 
for every disease ; but now, after having experienced its fatal ef- 
fects, they have recourse to a physician. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agricvlhtre.-^\i has already been observed that the united pa- 
rish contains an area of 81 square miles ; of which it is supposed 
that'5000 or 6000 acres at least are arable, or subjected to the 
operations of the plough. It must therefore be obvious that the 
arable soil bears but a small proportion to the uncultivated and 
mountainous regions. The elevation of the moorish land, toge- 
ther with its sterility, will for ever set at defiance the utmost ef- 
forts of human industry ; and such detached fields as might be 
cultivated with great labour and expense, are much better adapted 
for pasturage than tillage. 



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388 AROYLESHIRK. 

Although the farmers have been, within ihe last twenty yearsi 
very industrious and indefatigable in improving and draining waste 
land, and clearing fields of rocks and stones, by which they have 
greatly increased the bulk of crops in their stack-yards, yet 
the want of inclosures and subdivisions is a great obstacle to a 
regular rotation of crops, and precludes the possibility of adopting 
that judicious system of husbandry practised in the more cultivate 
ed districts of Scotland. 

Under existing circumstances, the tenants confine their labour 
to the cultivation of oats, bear, potatoes, pease, and beans. Bear 
is cultivated to a great extent, and may be considered as the staple 
culmiferous crop. 

A considerable proportion of bear land is annually laid down 
with clover and rye grass, and cut green for stall-feeding milk 
cows and horses, but seldom seasoned for a hay crop. 

A great extent of land is planted with potatoes, audit may with 
justice be said, that the farmers of Kintyre excel any other divi« 
sion of Scotland in the cultivation of this valuable root It has 
been calculated that, at an average, upwards of 50,000 bolls are 
annually exported from the district of Kintyre. Since a commu- 
nication .has been opened with the English and Irish markets, 
where Kintyre potatoes are in great demand and repute for seed, 
the tenants have for some years back, chiefly depended upon them 
for payment of their rents. But the prices are so fluctuating as 
often to disappoint the most sanguine expectations. 

The following rotation of crops is frequently practised in the 
parish by the most judicious and substantial farmers: 1^, pota- 
toes ; 2dj bear ; 3^, clover and rye-grass ; 4£A, oats without ma- 
nure, or bear well manured with sea-ware; 5^A, potatoes, — and so 
on in succession. ^ 

Outfield land, after lying two years lea, is generally manured 
with a compost of earth and lime, or shell sand, and cropped two 
years in succession with oats. Such fields', as have a poor 
and shallow soil, are often allowed to rest four years, before ihey 
are turned up with the plough. The system of summer fallowing 
has never been attempted, and very few of the tenants pasture 
clover land, or allow it to rest for more than one year. 

In the immediate vicinity of the sea, the soil of the parish is of 
a very sharp and sandy nature, but as it recedes some distance 
from the shore, it assumes a loamy texture of a chocolate colour. 
Upon the whole, it may be said that the west side of Kintyre con- 



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KILLEAN AND RILCHEN2IE. 889 

sists of a great yariety of soil, such as clay, moss, loam, sand and 
gravel. But light loam, with a mixture of gravel, seems to be the 
most prevalent. 

In the near neighbourhood of the sea, such fields as are most 
accessible to sea-ware, have been, time immemorial, without any 
cessation, alternately cultivated with bear and potatoes, i^nd never 
lail, except in seasons of long and continued drought, to yield fair 
returns. The wraic, as it is termed, or Alpa marina, furnishes 
an unlimited fund of excellent manure. But by too frequent ap- 
plication, it acts as a caustic, pulverizes and weakens the soil to 
such a degree as to nourish weeds of diverse sorts, particularly 
wild mustard (provincially scilloc). Noxious weeds will continue 
to multiply till such time as a greater extent of land is laid down 
with grass seeds, and allowed to rest for several years. 

Bear yields at an average 7 seeds, oats 6, beans 8, potatoes 16, 
and sometimes 20 seeds. 

From the difficulty of obtaining accurate information regarding 
the annual return of money to the parish from the sale of grain, 
black*cattle, sheep, horses, potatoes, butter, and cheese, it can 
only be said in general, that the sum of capital floating through 
the parish may at an average amount to L. 20,000 or L. 25,000 
Sterling. 

As there are no mills in the parish for dressing flax, the te* 
nants who clean and manufacture it in their own houses, do not 
consider yarn or linen an object of traffic, and only raise as much 
as is sufficient to supply their own families. 

Oats and bear are sold by imperial weight, eight bushels in the 
boll ; beans and peas 6 do. ; meal, old Kintyre measure, 12^ stone 
per boll ; and potatoes by the old standard of five straked barrels 
in the boll. 

The great defect in the present system of husbandry is, besides 
the want of enclosures and subdivisions, and a more judicious ro- 
tation of leguminous and culmiferous crops, that a great propor- 
tion of the farmers are in the practice of ploughing more land than 
they c^n afford manure to keep it in heart, and do not recruit, by 
pasturing, such fields as have been sown with clover and rye-grass 
seeds. 

In terms of leases, which are generally for nineteen years, the 
majority of landlords bind their tenants to follow a regular rota* 
tion of white and green crops, to sow grass seeds along with bear. 



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d90 ARGTLESHIKE. 

and not to take more than two crops of grain from the same field 
in succession. But, except by such as are in easy circumstances, 
the above system is seldom adopted. A great proportion endea- 
vour to study what they conceive to be their own interest and con- 
veniency, and are very reluctant to lose two successive crops. 
The natural consequence is, that the succeeding tenant finds his 
farm so much exhausted and impoverished, that, in spite of all his 
efforts to improve his lands, his lease has nearly expired before he 
begins to reap the benefit of his expenditures. At the termina- 
tion of the lease, another tenant steps forward and outbids his 
offer; or, should he be permitted to retain possession for an equi- 
valent rent, the great increase discourages him, and holds out no 
temptation to expend more money upon improvements. 

The residing tenant is also bound, in his lease, to pay all pub* 
lie burdens imposed, or to be imposed, over and above the minis- 
ter's teinds in kind, the latter of which is universally reckoned a 
very grievous burden, similar to the oppressive tithe system in a 
neighbouring island. They believe, and with justice, that the he- 
ritors themselves should pay the teinds agreeably to the decree of 
modiGcation and locality, and not burden the poor tenants, who 
can, with difficulty, scrape together their rents. It would, there* 
fore, tend to promote the interest of all concerned, if the he- 
ritors would be liberal enough to pay the stipend of the parish 
in money, conformably to the county fiar prices. This sim- 
ple arrangement, which has been often proposed, but in vain, 
would not only gratify such as are burdened with the ipsa corpora, 
but save the incumbent the disagreeable necessity of becoming a 
grain merchant, to the great loss of his interest, and interference 
with other more solemn and important avocations. 

As no market is held in the parish for the sale of raw produce, 
the farmers are subjected to great trouble and expense, by carting 
the produce of their lands to Campbelton, which is twenty-two 
miles from the north end of the parish. 

At one period, when intimation was given by agents or factors, 
for a collection of rent on a specified day, it frequently happened 
that the poor tenants had not converted a particle of the produce 
of their farms into cash. In this event, their only remedy was, to 
draw upon their customer, as he was usually termed, that is to say, 
a Campbelton maltster, who advanced a sum of money upon promise 
of getting all the bear which the borrower could sell during the 



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KILLEAN AND KILCHBNZIE. 391 

Course of the winter and spring. No fixed price was. stipulated but 
such as was going in town after the ensuing Candlemas, — or, in other 
words, such a price as the purchasers agreed among themselves to 
give the tenants in general. The latter, therefore, had no alterna« 
tive but to accept of such a price as was offered, or otherwise lose 
their customer. 

This was the practice fifteen or sixteen years ago, but now, as 
distilleries have multiplied in the burgh of Campbelton, where the 
price of grain varies according to weight and quality, the farmer 
obtains a fair remunerating price, every Thursday being a market 
day, and the practice of dealing with customers is abolished. 

All the lands in the parish are possessed by ten heritors, and let 
in lease to 111 tenants, — only six of the latter are graziers, who 
solely depend upon the sale of black cattle and sheep for pay-* 
ment of rents. 

The valued rent of the parish is L.453, ids. Id. The present/ 
rent, in Sterling money, L.948d. When the last Statistical Ac- 
count was written, it appears, that the rent-roll did not exceed, irt 
totoy L.3705 Sterling. The subsequent rent-roll, taken down 
from the verbal report of the tenants, cannot be far wrong. 

Duke of Argyle, 
Keith Macalister of Glenbarr, 
Macalister of Loup and GlenUngy, 
Miss Macdonald of Largie^ 
George M^Niel of Ugadale, 
Captain J. Fleming of Muasdale, 
Malcolm M'Niel of Klllean, 
Dugald Campbell of Kildaloig, 
John Campbell of Glenaaddell, 
Mr Faulds of Drummorei 

L.9480 
Owing to the depreciation of grain, and the low price of cattle, 
there is reason to believe that the rents have considerably dimi- 
nished. Only two of the preceding heritors have family seats in 
the parish, viz. Macdonald of Largie, and M^Alisterof Glenbarr, 
— the former occasional visitors, and the latter a constant residenten 
After perusing the preceding rent-roll, and comparing it with 
the rents of the parish forty years ago, it may be reasonably in^ 
ferred, that the mode of cultivating land is not only progressively 
improving, but that a considerable extent of soil, which was for- 
merly waste and useless, has been subjected to the operations of 
the plough. Much slill remains to be done in the way of enclo- 
sures and subdivisions, and adopting a more judicious rotation of 
white and green crops. 



1.^16 








1800 








1278 








1343 








410 








837 








744' 








310 








80 








165 









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892 ARGYLESHlRfi. 

The beriton would not only improve the general appearance of 
the parish, but advance their own interest, were they to encou- 
rage farmers to enclose their fields, either by remunerating the 
tenant at the termination of his lease for improvements and 
expenditures, or by being themselves at the expense of enclosures 
and subdivisions, and charging interest for the money expended 
to accommodate the farmer. 

A few fishing villages established along the coast of a parish which 
abounds with a variety of nutritive fish, and a small croft of land, 
with pasture for a couple of cows and a horse to each family, would 
not only support the superabundant population of cottagers, but 
prevent a spirit of emigration, which is becoming too prevalent 
among the Highland peasantry ; not an individual of whom would 
relinquish their hills and glens, to which they are attached by the 
dearest ties, could any reasonable prospect of employment and 
support be held out to them in their native land. 

Since education has become more generally diffused, the majo- 
rity of the natives can converse a little in the English language, 
but Gaelic is the prevailing dialect, in which all business is trans- 
acted. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Education. — The parishioners have, within the last ten years, 
manifested an ardent desire to give their children a liberal educa- 
tion ; and the advantages resulting from it are beginning to produce 
a perceptible cliange upon their morals. Six-and-thirty years ago, 
scarcely three out of ten could write or sign their names; but now, 
as the old generation are gradually dying away, their descendants 
are rapidly acquiring those branches of education taught in the 
parish schools, such as reading, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, 
English grammar, geography, and sometimes navigation. 

Eight schools are at present taught in the parish, viz. two pa- 
rochial, with the maximum salary divided between two teachers ; 
one supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Know- 
ledge, with a salary of L. 17 Sterling, a free house, and two and 
a-half acres of mortified land ; one endowed by the Committee of 
General Assembly, to which is attached a free house and glebe, 
and a salary of L. 25 Sterling per annum ; and four unendowed 
schools, supported by individual subscriptions. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The united parish is provided with two 
churches, kept in a good state of repair, conveniently enough si- 



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KILLEAN AND KILCHENZIE. S93 

tuAted for the majority of the population, and fit to accommodate 
all the hearers. As there are neither Government churches, nor 
chapels of ease, nor Episcopalians, nor Roman Catholics, nor 
any Dissenting chapels in the parish, public worship is regularly 
and well attended in good weather. 

The number of communicants have annually averaged. 500 for 
the last seven years. 

The minister's manse was built in the year 1803. It is situated 
upon a low projecting headland, in the immediate vicinity of the 
Atlantic Ocean, exposed to every blast that blows. The incumr 
bent is annually involved in very considerable expense for repairing 
the damages it sustains from winter storms ; and as the heritors 
do not consult their own interest by repairing the tear and wear of 
time and weather, it is becoming very ruinous and uncomfort- 
able.* 

The glebe attached to the manse measures 7 acres 3 roods of 
dry sandy soil, which, except in a moist summer, hardly defrays 
the expense of seed and labour. The tides of 1830 swept away 
nearly 1 ^ acre of the glebe. 

The stipend, including communion element money, amounts 
to 7 chalders, 2 firlots, 2 lippiesbear ; 14 bolls, 1 firlot, 3 pecks, 
2 lippies meal, Kintyre measure; and L.25, 1 2s. 7cl. money. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — Over and above such as receive 
temporary supplies, the number of paupers at present upon the 
parish list, and receiving parochial aid, is 67. The yearly collec- 
tion in church for the last three'years has averaged L.29 Sterling, 
chiefly contributed by farmers and cottagers. 

The session have also at their disposal the interest of L.1000 
Sterling, being a legacy bequeathed to the poor of the parish by 
one of the heritors of the parish.f 

Thirty years ago, it was considered degrading to seek parochial 
aid ; but now these laudable feelings of pride are suppressed. 
Paupers conceive themselves entitled to an aliment by the laws 
of the laud ; and, since the Reform Bill passed in Parliament, 

* Since writing the above, the heritors have thoroughly repaired the maose. 

f In the year 1810, Colonel Norman Macaiister of Clachaig, Governor and Com- 
maoder-iD-Chief of Prince of Wales Island, East Indies, and who was drowned on 
bis return home, bequeathed, inter alia, L.1000 Sterling to the poor of the parish, 
to be invested on heritable secuiity, and the principal never to be touched. To com- 
memorate his generosity and their gratitude, the heritors and kirk-session erected a 
handsome marble monument in the parish church, with a suitable inscription. 



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394 ARGYLESHIRE* 

of which the lower orders of the community seem to eDtertain* ft 
Tory erroDeous idea, they have become very troublesome and im* 
portunate in their demands for a livelihood. Notwithstanding 
their unfortunate spirit of discontent, the session have been hitherto 
enabled to support them by weekly and extra collections, and avoid 
any assessment, which, they have every reason to believe, would 
do more harm than good. The poor upon the estate of Largie^ 
now the property of the Honourable Mr Moreton Macdonald, are 
principally supported, fed, and clothed by Lady Macdonald Lock- 
l^art and the other members of that benevolent family, who fre- 
quently extend their charity beyond the bounds of their own pro- 
party. 

FairSf Sfc. — Only one annual fair is held in the parish, where 
very little business is transacted, except hiring servants for the 
harvest quarter. Within the bounds of the parish there are three 
public inns and seven licensed alehouses. As they are seldom 
frequented but by travellers, they have no pernicious tendency 
upon the morals of the people. 

Revised October 1843. 



PARISH OF GIGHA AND CARA. 

PRESBYTERY OF KINTYRE, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. JAMES CURDIE, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name* — In the former Statistical Account, the name of this 
parish is said to be derived from the two Gaelic words, EUean^ 
island, and Dia^ God, written in the Gaelic EUean Dhia^ sig- 
nifying God's Island. It is, however, more likely that the name 
Gigha is derived from the Gaelic word Geodha^ a ** creek," since 
the island abounds in creeks and bays favourable for keeping boats 
in ; whereas the opposite coast of Kintyre, to a great extent, is 
much exposed to the Atlantic, and without any creeks or ports 
where vessels could lie in safety. 

Cara is supposed to signify a monastery. 



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OIOHA AND CARA. d^S 

Extent. — The extreme length of Gigha from north-eaat to 
south-west nearly is seven miles, and its extreme breadth two and 
a half miles. Its coast is very irregular, being much indented by 
the sea. Its contents do not exceed five and a half square miles. 

South of Gigha, at the distance of a mile and a half, lies the 
island of Cara, which is nearly a mile in length, and half a mile 
in breadth. Cara and the neighbouring islet Gigulum contain 
nearly a square mile. 

Topographical Appearances. — Gigha and Cara are both low 
islands, the highest point in the former, which is called <* Creag 
than,** or the white rock, not exceeding 400 feet above the level 
of the sea. 

The coast on the west side is bold and rocky. Near the mid- 
dle of it, there are two caves, called the Great Cave and the Pi- 
geon's Cave. The latter has a coating of calcareous spar, and 
derives its name from the circumstance of its being much frequented 
by wild pigeons. 

On the farm of Leim, at the south-west end of Gigha, there is 
a subterraneous passage, 133 feet long, into which the sea flows. 
About the middle of it, there is an aperture 8 feet long and 2 
broad, and near the end, there is another 20 feet long and 4 broad. 
When there is a surf, a perpetual mist issues froib these apertures, 
accompanied with a great noise, caused by the rolling of large stones, 
which are carried backward and forward by the agitation of the wa- 
ter. A storm from the west causes the sea to rush in with such vio-* 
lence, as to discharge itself with a thundering noise, in the form 
of intermitting jets. Hence its name, ^* Sloe an leim" the squirt- 
ing cave, or literally, the jumping or springing pit. It gives its 
name to the farm on which it is. 

The shore of Cara is high and rocky, except at the north-east 
end. At the south end is a perpendicular rock, 1 17 feet in height, 
called the Maoil or Mull of Cara, which is much frequented by 
sea fowl ; and the real game hawk is said to nestle here. 

Coast. — The coast of Gigha is not less than 25 miles in ex- 
tent, there being many points running out into the sea, and nu- 
merous bays of various extent, which cause the coast to be of a 
very winding character. The greater part of the coast, and espe- 
cially on the west side, is rocky ; but at the two ends, and on the 
east side, there are various sandy bays, which are most favourable 
for sea-bathing. The sand is of a very pure white colour, and at 



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396 AEOYLESHIKE. 

a former period, great quantities of it used to be carried to Dum- 
barton, to be manufactured into glass. 

Between Gigba and Cara lies the uninhabited islet Gigu- 
lum, with a range of breakers running south-west. Between 
Gigha on the north, and Gigulum on the south, there is a sound 
which affords good anchorage for large vessels, and is frequentedby 
Her Majesty's cutters, and by vessels going to and returning from 
the North Highlands, as well as by vessels from England and 
Ireland, which come to take away seed potatoes from this and the 
neighbouring parish of Killean. 

About the middle of Gigha, on the east side, is the Bay of 
Ardminish, which is frequented by vessels taking away the pro- 
duce of the island, or bringing coals, lime, &c. The church and 
manse are at the head of this bay. A little farther north, on the 
same side, is the Bay of Drimyeonbeg, which is of considerable 
extent, and affords good holding ground; and within a mile of the 
north-east end, is the Bay of Tarbert, which, like all the bays in 
the island, affords good holding ground, the bottom consisting 
chiefly of blue clay. Though a great part of the east coast is 
rocky, it is not high in any part. 

The point which extends farthest into the sea is called Ardmi« 
nish point, on the north side of the bay of that name, from the 
Gaelic words Ard, a height, meadhon^ middle, and nes$^ (Danish,) 
a point going out into the sea. There are rocks outside of all the 
above-mentioned bays, so that persons frequenting them would 
require to be well acquainted with their position. 

The principal entrance of the Sound of Gigulum is from the 
east, between Gigulum and Gigha. The passage from the west, 
which is not so easy or so safe to strangers, is between the rocks 
and the Gigha side. 

The prevailing winds are south and south-west. The natives 
prognosticate the state of the weather from the appearance of the 
Mull of Kintyre and the Paps of Jura. If these are capped with 
clouds, rain is expected ; and if the clouds are of a whitish ap- 
pearance, a gale of wind. Sea- fowls, such as gulls, coming about 
the houses and on the arable land, are supposed to indicate very 
stormy weather. 

The climate, though humid, is mild, the sea breeze blowing 
over the parish in every direction. Snow and frost are *but of rare 
occurrence and short duration. Gigha is visited with less rain than 
the neighbouring parishes and islands, owing to there being no 



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GIGHA AND CARA. 397 

high hills in it to attract the clouds, while those of Islay and Jura, 
on the one hand, and of Kintyre on the other, attract the clouds 
to themselves, and conduct them past this low-lying parish, which 
suffers less from a wet than from a very dry season. The in* 
habitants are very healthy, and seldom need medicine or medical 
aid. There is no medical man in the parish. The ailments of 
the people generally arise from exposure to wet or cold on sea or 
land. Pectoral and rheumatic complaints are not unfrequent 
with elderly people. Fevers are rare. 

Hydrography. — The strait between Gigha and Kintyre is three 
and a-half miles in breadth. Between the two shores, a pretty 
strong current runs, especially at, and a day or two after, the new 
and full moon. The average rise of the tide is about four feet* 
It seldom rises above six feet. The stream is an eddy that 
strikes off from the great and more rapid stream which runs be- 
tween the Mull of Kintyre and the Sound of Jura. The sea 
about Gigha is very clear and pure, free from mud or fresh water. 
The island is abundantly supplied with perennial springs of fresh 
water, issuing from hornblende rocks, chlorite, and mica slate. 

Geology and Mineralogy, — The rocks in the parish are all pri- 
mitive, except a few basaltic dikes which are found to traverse the 
other strata in general at right angles. The direction of the 
strata is north-east and south-west, and the dip to the west at an 
angle varying from twenty to forty degrees. The varieties of slate 
seen in Gigha are, mica slate, felspar slate, chlorite slate, and 
hornblende slate or rock. The strata of these, though regular in 
direction, observe no uniform relation to one another, each being 
found several times repeated, after its place has been taken up by 
another rock. 

From the regular direction and dip of the strata, and the great 
extent of outcrop exposed to view, the geologist has here an op- 
portunity, rarely afforded him elsewhere, of tracing the sequence 
and alteration of these strata. But although each of these is se- 
veral times repeated, it may be observed that the mica-slate and 
felspar slate are almost wholly on the east side of the island, while 
the veins of quartz and hornblende are distributed nearly equally 
through the whole parish. 

These rocks exhibit different characters, which impart peculiar 
features to different parts of the island. The mica-slate and fel- 
spar-slate, being friable and easily affected by the ordinary decom- 
posing agents, have been washed down so as to form various fruitful 



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398 ARGYLBSUIUE. 

valleys ; and where the sea has had access to them, it has scooped 
out considerable bays and creeks^ which afford, as has been already 
observed, good anchorage for vessels of any size, and ports in which 
smaller boats can be kept, and, at the same time, a sheltered re- 
treat to the numerous shoals of cuddies or coal fish, seythe, &C 
which frequent the coast almost at all seasons of the year, and 
supply the poor with much sustenance. 

The hornblende rock, which forms great part of the more cen- 
tral parts of the island, is sometimes found of a schistose descrip- 
tion, but oftener of a prismatic; and exhibiting many of the cha- 
racters of an overlying trap; and being of a very hard consistence^ 
it has withstood the action of wind, rain, and waves. On shore, 
it stands up by itself in high relief, forming several ridges and 
hills, varying in height from 50 to 400 feet; and, owing* to the 
same cause, it continues to form numerous reefs, headlands, little 
islands, and half-submerged rocks, which serve as a natural break- 
water round the greatest part of the island. The rocks, which 
stand alone in the sea, are rounded and smoothed on their sum- 
mits by the incessant action-of the sea, and those on shore present 
a great extent of bare surface, which, owing to their elevation above 
the more fertile parts, give the island, viewed from the sea, a bar- 
ren and rocky appearance. These rocks and eminences, how- 
ever, are useful, as they afford shelter to the adjacent lowlands 
and valleys. The chlorite slate is almost exclusively confined to 
the west side of the island, forming a coast of considerable eleva- 
tion, which, presents many fantastic appearances from the une- 
qual decomposition of the rock. Tiie dip of the strata is here 
very considerable ; hence the sea along the greater part of this 
coast is deep enough to permit vessels to sail near the coast* 
Wherever this rock comes in contact either with whin or trap dikes 
or with hornblende rock along the coast, considerable decomposition 
of both is observed to have taken place. The oozing of water 
from above between the rocks, and the action of the sea beneath, 
have scooped out several caves and fissures, whicii are frequented 
by wild pigeons, starlings, and goats. 

On the shore of Leim, a little to the .east of the jetting cave, 
there are some appearances of copper. At the south end of Cara 
there are some appearances of iron ore. 

Soilj jfc. — The soil of Gigha is a rich loam, witha mixturein some 
places of sand, moss, and clay. It is fertile, and &vourable for the 
growth of potatoes, turnips, bear, and oats. Vegetation is quick* 



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OIGHA AND CARA. 309 

Numerous rolled stones of hornblende are found in the ground* 
and near the surface, two and three feet in diameter. The great- 
est part of them could be removed on a sledge by a pair of horses. 
Id general the soil is not deep, though the quality is good, and in 
many situations the rock is so near the surface, that it is not so easy 
to drain the sand as thoroughly as could be wished. The land, which 
rests on felspar, is particularly difficult to drain, the rock being near 
the surface, itself almost impervious to water. Many fields stand 
much in need of draining, though there are abundance of stones 
in the land itself, which are at present cumbering the ground. At 
a former period, much had been done in the island in the way of 
draining, blasting rocks, and building dikes, but a great deal re- 
mains yet to be done, and there is no doubt but the grateful soil 
would make an ample return for any labour and expense that 
might be judiciously bestowed upon it. 

Fishes. — Cod, and ling, and large haddocks are found on the 
banks, two or three miles from the two ends of the island. Mac- 
kerel, sea perch, rock cod, lythe, seythe, and cuddies abound near 
the coast. 

The banks of shells and shell sand which are found in the bays 
show that, at no very remote period, large oysters abounded along 
the coast, but the species is now nearly extinct here. The large 
dog welk, called buckie, is found in vast quantities on the banks 
between the island and the mainland. It is the bait used in the 
cod and ling fishing. This year, twenty boats, having each from 
800 to 1000 hooks, which require to be baited, if possible, every 
day, were engaged in this fishing. Hence it is evident that the 
quantity needed is very great Creels, in form like the wire mouse- 
trap, having heads or entrails of fish in them, are sunk on the 
banks, and are emptied of the buckies which enter them as often 
as may be. 

The e&tensive surface of rock exposed through this island is 
crusted over with various species of lichen, such as the Sphcerophe- 
ron, Sticta Ramalina^ ParmeUoy and Lecanora. The three 
last afford valuable dyes. These lichens, in the course of time, 
form a crust, which affords shelter and sustenance to the roots of 
the juniper and stunted heaths which grow upon the rocks. The 
juniper abounds on the east coast, and bears numerous clusters of 
berries, which become ripe in July and August. When put into 
whisky, the berries give it much of the colour and taste of gin^ 
and they are said to add to its diuretic quality ; and, therefore, 



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400 ARGTLESHIRE. 

such whisky is recommended to persons afflicted with gravel. 
There are no flowering plants here, which are not to be met on the 
neighbouring coast. Moss roses abound on every hillock. Tangle 
is cast on the shores of this island, and is extensively used as ma- 
nure for the land. The other species of fuci or sea-weed, com- 
monly used for making kelp, are also applied to the land as manure* 
since the low price of that article will no. longer pay for the labour 
of making it. The Ulva latissima, which makes a pickle called 
** laver," is found on the coast, as well as the various species of 
Chondria that constitute what is called Carigean moss. 

11. — Civil History. 

Land-owners, — The land*owners of this parish are, Captain 
Alexander M'Neill, younger of Collonsay, and the lady of the 
Honourable A. H. Morton and Miss Macdonald Lockhart, daugh- 
ters of the late Sir Charles Macdonald Lockhart, Bart, of Lee 
and Carnwath. The parish is divided into thirty-one merk-lands. 
Of these, twenty-five belong to the former, and six, of which Cara 
forms one, to the latter, who have also a large and valuable estate 
called Largie in the neighbouring parish of Killcan. 

Parochial Registers. — No register of births, marriages, and 
deaths of an earlier date than 1 793 is to be found. Since that pe- 
riod the register has been kept with tolerable regularity, except in 
the years 18*24 and 1825, in which years the register of births 
is incomplete. There is a separate book for keeping an account 
of money received for the poor, as well as of disbursements ; and 
a third volume for recording the proceedings of the kirk-session in 
matters of discipline. 

Antiquities, — About the middle of Gigha is Dun Chifie, Keefie's 
hill, which appears to have been a strong fortification. Tradition says 
that Keefie, the King of Lochlin's son, who occupied this strong- 
hold, was killed thereby Diarmid, one of Fingal's heroes, with whose 
wife he had run away. At the north end of the island, on the top 
of a hill, there is a circular heap of stones, called ^^ Carn-na«faire," 
or ivateh cairn. As the name implies, it must have been intended 
to give the alarm in case of invasion, for it commands a very ex- 
tensive view of the sea. There is a signal post upon it now to in- 
timate when it is wished that the Islay steamer, when passing either 
way, should come near the island for passengers. 

The walls of the old church, in which there is a stone font, 
stand in the middle of the burying ground, about a mile from 



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OIGHA AND CARA* 40i 

tbe present church ; and the remains of a chapel, with a Gothic 
arched door, still exist in Cara. 

Maniion-liauieB. — There are two mansion-houses in the parish 
which used to be occupied occasionally by the late proprietors, 
but they are now occupied by tenants. 

III. — Population. 

Id 1811, males, 276-.females, 274--5fi0 

1821, 287— 287—574 

• 1881, 2B6~ 248—534 

1841, 2d4^ 256-^50 

The enlarging of farms is the chief cause of the decrease of 
population. Very few have emigrated from Gigha to a foreign 
country. There is no town or village in the parish. 

Yearly average of births for the last seven years, 13 

deaths. Do. . . . . 5f 

marriages, Do. .... d| 

Number of unmarried men, bacfaeloi^ and widowers, above 50 years of age, 1 1 

women upwards of 45, . ^ . . 14 

Average number of children in each family, • • ', ^ 

There is one fatuous man in the parish, and a young man 
from another parish who is boarded here. There are none 
who were born blind, but there are two who lost their eye- 
sight, after they were considerably advanced in years. There 
are two deaf and dumb children, a brother and sister, who are at 
the Deaf and Dumb Institution, Edinburgh, one of them being 
Doaintained there partly by the parents and other benevolent friends, 
and the other by a society of ladies in Edinburgh. 

Gaelic is the language generally spoken ; English, however, 
is much better understood by young and old than it was forty 
years ago, but there are not above ten persons in the parish who 
do not understand and speak Gaelic 

The habits of the people are improving. The limited accom- 
modation in their houses is unfavourable to cleanliness, yet they 
are gradually improving in this respect. 

The ordinary food of the inhabitants is potatoes and oatmeal, 
potatoes and 6sh or milk, generally twice in the day, and oftdn 
three times. Fish being easily got^ there is very little animal lood 
used by the greater part of the population. 

But though they often complain that they have not the food 
and other comforts and conveniences which thej conceive they 
ought to have, such of them as leave the island generally embrace 
tbe first opportunity of returning to it. Here they can bring up 
a fiimily more easily than in most parts of the Highlands or Low- 

AROYLE. c c 



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402 ARGYLESHIRE. 

lands. Sea-weed for manuring potato ground is easily obtained, 
and fish may be had almost all the year round. Upon the whole, 
the inhabitants of Gighaare more favourably situated than the ge- 
nerality of Highlanders. As they go much from home as sailors, 
or farm servants in the low country, they see more of the world 
and its ways, and are in general more intelligent, than a great pro- 
portion of the inhabitants of the Highlands, and even than the 
same class of persons in the low country. The number of indivi- 
duals who cannot read is but small now. The rising generation 
all learn to read, but there are still between twenty and thirty of 
the oldest of the people who unhappily cannot read or write. 

The young men and women leave home for service at an early 
period, and are absent, in many instances, for years, and generally 
for one-half of the year, — a circumstance which is highly unfavour- 
able to their acquiring regular habits of attending Divine ordinances. 
Yet they are infproving in this respect, and are becoming better 
acquainted with the Scriptures. 

They are honest, kind, obliging, and very grateful for any ser- 
vices rendered them. 

There is but little poaching in those islands. 
Illicit distillation of whisky is still carried on occasionally on 
one of the properties, but the principal heritor has, much to his 
credit, effectually suppressed it on his property. Any tenant or 
cottar found guilty of smuggling on his lands forfeits his lease, or 
will be removed from his possession, of whatever kind it may hap- 
pen to be. In this way heritors and their factors might>put an 
end to the pernicious practice of smuggling all over the country. 
Some individuals, who had no license to retail spirits have here* 
tofore been in the practice of retailing whisky, but steps are being 
taken at present by the same excellent heritor above alluded to, 
to prevent this being done in future, at least on his property, that 
there may be only one public-house in the island, and that one 
under proper regulations. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — The parish consists of about 4000 imperial acres, 
more than one-half of which is arable, and of what is in pasture, 
probably one-half might be cultivated with a moderate outlay, so 
as to give a good return, whether it were afterwards to be kept in 
occasional tillage or in permanent pasture. Almost the whole of 
the Island of Cara might be cultivated with advantage, though 
only with the view of improving the pasture. There are about 



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GIGHA AND CARA. 



403 



ten acres of planted wood in the parish, consisting of oak, 
ash, plane, larch, Scotch fir, pineaster, &c. The pineaster is 
less affected by the sea breeze and the prevailing winds, than any 
of the other kinds mentioned. 

Rent of Land. — Average rent of arable land per acre, 16s. 
Average rate of grazing per cow for twelve months, L.2, 10s. 
Average rate of grazing sheep per year, 5s. 

Wages — Rate of wages for a man. Is. 3d., and for a woman, Is. 
without victuals. In autumn, victuals are given in addition, and 
at that season Is. 6d. are given to particularly good hands. House* 
carpenters get 2s. ; boat-carpenters, 2s. 6d. and their board ; ma- 
sons, 2s. 6d. ; shoemakers and tailors. Is. 6d. and their victuals* 
The prices of agricultural produce, as well as of all farming im- 
plements, are much the same as at Campbelton. The average 
rate of wages of farm-servants per half-year, men, L.5, 15s., wo- 
men, L.3 in summer, and L.2, I Os. in winter. 

Live-Stock. — There are but few sheep reared in this parish, 
the limited extent of the farms not admitting of there being many 
in the summer half-year. The few that are reared here are of 
the Cheviot kind. It is found that the parish is particularly well 
adapted for wintering sheep and hogs, and therefore about 1000 
of the latter are annually brought in the end of autumn from 
Jura and the neighbouring parishes, to be wintered here at the 
rate of 2s. 6d. each for five months. 

Of the arable land, the greater part is cropped without inter- 
mission, though the system enjoined on the tenants on the larger 
property is a five years' shift. The soil is particularly well adapted 
for raising turnips ; yet potatoes are preferred, in consequence of 
the demand for them for seed from Ireland ; and the difficulty 
of sending fat cattle or sheep to market, owing chiefly to the 
want of a quay. 

The late most intelligent and spirited proprietor of the principal 
part of this parish, as well as his father before him, did a great 
deal, many years ago, in the way of draining, blasting and removing 
rocks, and building dikes and houses. By having an extensive 
and valuable arable farm in his own hands, and on which he had 
overseers from the lowlands, he was enabled to set an excellent 
example before his tenants; and under his judicious management, 
the island got considerably in advance of a great part of the 
Highlands. He introduced a good breed of Argyleshire cattle, 
suppressed smuggling, and made the inhabitants turn their atten« 



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404 ARGYLE8HIRE. 

tion more to agriculture and Bshing thau they had been accus- 
tomed to do. And the present holder of that property gnres good 
encouragement to his tenants, by aiding them in draiDing and 
enclosing, the materials for which are to be had in abundance 
almost in every field. It will not be his fisiult, if his tenants do 
not keep in advance of their neighbours in this quarter of the 
country. 

There are some leases of seven, ethers of fifteen, and three of 
nineteen years' duration. Short leases are certainly unfavourable 
to the tenant. In t&e greater number of instances, £arm-steadiogs 
are thatched, and of an inferior description. The farms are en- 
closed by march dikes, but subdivisions are still much needed, to 
enable the tenants to preserve the land sown down with grass- 
seeds from being poached by the feet of cattle in the winter. 
The sea air is supposed to be injurious to hedges, yet there are a 
few good hedges in the island which make excellent fences, while 
they afford much shelter to crop and cattle. 

The principal improvements which have been recently made, 
are, a new road to the mill, which cost L. 250, repairing the mill, 
draining the mill dam loch to enable the people to take turf out 
of it for fuel, building two good slated farm-houses and several 
good slated farm-offices. All these improvements were made at 
the sole expense of Captain McNeill. 

Want of capital has been a great obstacle to improvement, and 
is still. The most of the farms, too, were held by the very un- 
certain and unsatisfactory tenure of from year to year, for a cofi' 
siderable period of years, and while that state of things lasted, do 
considerable or expensive improvements were undertaken by ibe 
tenants. 

Fishery. — During three or four months, beginning about Can- 
dlemas, twenty boats, and sometimes more, each having four men 
in it, are employed in the cod and ling fishing, on banks two or 
three miles from the two ends of the island, towards the north* 
west and south-west. The quantity cured and sent to market 
averages about fifty tons, which is sold in Glasgow, Greeoodk, 
and Campbelton at from L. 10 to L. 1 4 per ton. L.IO per maOf 
after paying all expenses, are considered good wages for the Ume 
they are engaged at the fishing. Their families are, at the same 
time, supplied with abundance of fish and oil for their own use. 
At other seasons of the year, these men work their potato grouod, 
make their peats, work at days' wages, or engage in coasting ves- 



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GIG HA AND CAR A. 405 

sels. But this waut of proper subdivision of labour is, as may be 
imagined, very unfavourable to their acquiring habits of regular 
industry. The young men, in general, prefer a seafaring life to 
working on shore. They are excellent seamen. As so many of 
the men are engaged at the fishing in spring, agricultural labour- 
ers are not easily got, at the time they are most wanted ; and those 
that are to be had, demand higher wages than are given in Islay 
and the more northern islands. 

About 400 tons of potatoes, 400 quarters of bear or big, and 
150 quarters of oats are annually exported from Gigha; besides 
black cattle, horses, pigs, and sheep, butter, cheese, and eggs. 

NamgaHofu^^There is one vessel belonging to the island, which 
registers 80 tons, and another 14 tons, which are employed in car- 
rying the produce of the island to market, and bringing coals and 
lime, &C. to it. Besides the fishing boats already mentioned, 
which carry from three to four tons each, there are at least 20 
other smaller boats for fishing small fish near the coast. Large 
vessels come from Ireland, the north of England, and the Clyde 
for potatoes, and occasionally for cod and ling fish. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

MarAet'TotofL — Campbelton is the nearest market-town. 
The produce of the island, however, is carried by water to Islay^ 
Ireland, and the Clyde ; but the price of agricultural produce is 
much the same here as at Campbelton. 

Means of Communication. — A steamer, which plies between 
West Loch Tarbert and Islay, passes the north end of Gigha, 
thrice in the week in summer, and once in winter, and a boat at- 
tends for the purpose of landmg passengers. 

There is a ferry to the mainland from each of the properties. 
The fare of the boat is 28., or 6d. each, if there should happen to 
be more than four passengers. 

There is no post-oflBce nearer than Tarbert, which is eighteen 
miles from Tayinloan, a small village near the ferry on the main* 
land, where there is a receiving house for letters, &c. To Tayin- 
loan there is a post from Tarbert on the one hand, and Camp- 
belton on the other, six times in the week. There is also a car- 
rier between Campbelton and Tayinloan once in the week. 

There is a carriage road made for five miles in Gigha, besides 
two miles of a cross road from it to the corn-mill ; and a further 
extension of the public road to the north end is contemplated. A 



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406 ARGYLESHIRB. 

quay is greatly needed at both ends of the island, and also at Tay- 
inloan on the Kintyre side. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is well situated as to 
distance from the different parts of the parish. With the excep- 
tion of the family in Cara, there are only three families in the pa- 
rish three miles from the church. It was built upwards of sixty 
years ago, accommodates 260, and is in a tolerable state of repair ; 
but, as the floor of it is considerably lower than the ground out- 
side, it is damp and uncomfortable in winter, and at all seasons in 
wet weather. The sittings are all free. 

The manse was built in 1816, was repaired in 1828» and is in 
a habitable state at present 

The glebe contains nine acres (Scotch measure), six of which 
are arable, the rest good hill pasture. The present incumbent 
has increased the value of the glebe considerably by draining, blast- 
ing, and removing rocks, and improving the fences. It is worth 
L.20 of annual rent. There is a money stipend of L.247, 4s. 9d. 
and about 18 bolls of grain. The stipend for crop 1838 was 
L.267, 8s. The teinds are exhausted. 

All the families in the parish attend the parish church. There 
is only one Dissenter in the parish, a Baptist, who came to it from 
a neighbouring parish three years ago. His wife and children be- 
long to the Established Church, and they are regular attendants 
of the church. 

In good weather the church is well attended. The average 
number of communicants is 145. The average amount of church 
collections for charitable purposes is L.6^ 

Education. — The parochial is the only school in the parish. 
The branches taught are Gaelic and English reading, writing, 
arithmetic, book-keeping, geography, and Latin. The salary is 
the minimum, and the school fees amount to about L.12. The 
schoolmaster has the legal accommodations. The school fees are, 
for reading, Is. 6d. ; reading and writing, 2s. ; arithmetic, 2s. 6d.; 
Latin, 5s. per quarter. There are several in the parish between 
six and eight years of age who cannot read, because many of the 
children in this parish, and particularly those who are at some dis- 
tance from school, do not go to school till they are about eight 
years of age ; but there are none between nine and fifteen who 
cannot read, though there are some girls between those ages who 
cannot write. The riumber of persons above fifteen years of age who 
can neither read nor write is between 20 and 30, chiefly old people. 



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GIGHA AND CARA. 407 

Parents wish their children to be taught, yet many of them do not 
send them to school, till they are seven or eight years of age, and 
but irregularly even after that age. Many of the children are en- 
gaged in herding for one-half of the year. 

The average number of persons receiving parochial aid, 9 ; ave- 
rage sum given to each, 18s. per year. The church collections, 
the interest of L.40, and a few fines constitute the fund from 
which the poor are relieved. Only two of the poor on the roll at 
present live in houses, by themselves ; the rest live with their rela- 
tions, and the most needful are assisted in various ways by tenants 
and others resident in the island. None of them ever seek cha- 
rity out of the parish. A few are reluctant to ask parochial aid, 
but the greater number seem to have no such feeling. 

Inns. — At present there is only one inn allowed in the parish. 

Fuel. — The fuel chiefly used is turf, which is becoming scarce, 
therefore many burn coals, which are brought from Ayrshire. The 
carriage of the ton costs ds. besides the price paid for the coals 
in Ayrshire : Ids. per ton here is about the average price. Coals 
of an inferior description are brought from the west coast of the 
parish of Campbelton, which may be had here for 10s. 6d. per 
ton. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
In the course of the last twelve years, the tenants and cottars 
have fallen off greatly in their circumstances, owing to the fall in 
the price of agricultural produce, the failure of the potato crop 
and of the fisheries for several successive years, and the with- 
drawal by Government of the bounty on cod and ling fish. To the 
young men in the parish who are sailors in their tastes and habits, 
the low price of ardent spirits has been injurious. Great progress 
has been made in knowledge and industry within the last forty 
years. Making good roads, and building more dikes on the dif- 
ferent farms, and building one or more quays, would greatly en- 
courage industry. 

October 1843. 



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UNITED PARISH OF 

KILCALMONELL AND KILBERRY. 

PRESBYTERY OF KINTYRE, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. JOHN M'AIITHUR, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — Thb name KilcalmoDell is of Gaelic deriYation, and 
signifies the burying place of Malcolai O'Neill. Kilberry, the 
name of the other division of the parish^ we think, is compound- 
ed of cm a-Mhairij the burying-place of Mary. Kilcalmonell is 
situate in the peninsula of Kintyre, extending from the parish of 
Killean, on the west, to Lochfine, at Tarbert, on the north-easL 

Extent^ ^c, — Its length is about 16 miles, and its breadth 3 
miles. It is bounded, almost along its whole length on the north- 
west, by West Loch Tarbert and the Atlantic Ocean ; and on the 
south-east, by the parish of Saddel and Skipness. Kilberry is situ- 
ate, properly speaking, in the district of Knapdale, is separated 
from Kilcalmonell by West Loch Tarbert, and bounded by the 
sea on all sides excepting on the north-east, where it is met by 
the parish of South Knapdale. The form of it is triangular, and 
nearly equilateral. 

Topographical Appearances. — Kilcalmonell rises sometimes with 
a gentle acclivity, at other times with greater abruptness from the 
sea to its greatest elevation. The general altitude of the range of 
hills in which it terminates on the south-east, does not exceed 
1500 feet, whilst the few valleys by which the uniformity of the ac- 
clivity is disturbed, rise not more than 100 or 150 feet above the 
level of the sea. Kilberry is bisected from west to east by a ridge 
of hill which rises gradually till it is lost in the cloud which fre- 
quently envelopes the lofty Sliobh-ghoil, one of the two bases of 
which extends out into considerable breadth of soil, well fitted to 
reward the labours of the husbandman ; while the other, posses- 
sing equal extension, is of a more moorland character. The 
coast of Kilcalmonell is not remarkable for variety of aspect, ex- 

4 



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KILCALMONELL AND KILBERRT. 409 

cepting along the shore of Loch Tarbert, which is overhung, along 
a considerable portion of it, by the birch, the alder, and the oak, 
growing in careless profusion towards the summit of the abruptly 
ascending hills. The shore is chiefly sandy. The sea coast of 
Kilberry presents a bold front to the billows of the Atlantic. 
The only bay worth noticing in the united parish is Stornoway, 
in the neighbourhood of which is the headland of Ard Patrick, 
where tradition affirms Saint Patrick to have landed on his way 
from Ireland to Icolmkill. 

C7tma<0.— The climate of this parish is very variable. The 
exhalations which are constantly rising from the surface of the 
Atlantic are attracted, when the wind blows from the west, by the 
upland of Kintyre. The prevailing wind is the west, and a sure 
prognostic of rain is afforded by the cloud*capped Paps of Jura. 
When we consider the variableness of our temperature, it may 
be surprising that the climate should be so healthy as it in ge- 
neral is. 

Hydrography. — West Loch Tarbert, a branch of the Atlantic, 
separates the two divisions of the united parish, measuring in its 
length about nine miles, and in its breadth one mile. The depth 
of the water is by no means uniform, varying from three or four 
fathoms to ten or fifteen. There are several fresh water lochs in 
the parish, but, neither in regard to magnitude nor adjacent scenery, 
are they entitled' to any particular notice. 

Geology and Mineralogy, — This parish does not furnish an in* 
teresting field to the investigation of the lovers of those sciences. 
The direction of the strata along the sea is from west to east. 
There are beds of limestone from north-east to south-west (but 
of inconsiderable thickness) to be found in several localities in the 
parish. 

Zoology. — In addition to the ordinary variety of the feathery 
tribe, we have the wigeon in great numbers every winter, taking 
shelter from the northern blasts, on the comparatively smooth sur- 
face of Loch Tarbert. The barnacle comes now and then in- 
to close juxtaposition with them ; and on a clear frosty morning, 
it is not uncommon to hear the wild melody of the swan echoing 
from shore to shore. Some of the Loch Tarbert oysters are of 
great size, and all of good quality. 

II. — Civil History. 
Land'owners. — The principal land-owners are, John Campbell, 



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410 ABGYLESHIRE* 

Esq. of Kilberry ; Jobo Campbell, Esq. of Stone6eld ; aod Miss 
Macdonald, Lorgie. 

Parochial Registera. — Parochial registers do not seem to ba?e 
been kept till tbe year 1780. 

Antiquities. — There are tumuli on the property of John Camp- 
bell, Esq. of Drimnamueklach, in one of which some pieces of a 
rudely adorned helmit were found, in a tolerable state of preser* 
Yation, three years ago. The forts of Dunskeig, mentioned by 
my predecessor, and belonging to a chain of forts built at certain 
distances from each other along the coast of Kintyre, appear to 
have been erected at a very early period in the history of this 
kingdom. The castle of Tarbert, though very ancient, is not 
nearly so much so as is the line of forts already mentioned. Dun- 
skeig is admirably adapted by nature for being a place of defence. 
The view it commands is varied and extensive. It rises almost 
perpendicularly from the level of the sea to the height of 400 feet. 
The remains of the vitrified fort are not very entire, but suffi- 
ciently marked to prove that its magnitude was considerable. 

III. — Population. 

The population has not increased since 1821, owing in a great 
measure to the extent to which emigration to America has been 
carried on within these few years past. Of the whole population of 
the united parish, about 1200 reside in villages, and the remainder 
in the country. Four or five families of independent fortune re- 
side in the parish ; and the number of landed proprietors whose 
properties yield upwards of L.50 per annum, is nine. 

Language^ Sfc. — The Gaelic is the vernacular language of the 
parishioners ; but the English is displacing it, and the sooner it 
overmasters it the better. 

The peasantry endeavour to better their* condition by having 
recourse to smuggling. It is impossible to calculate the amount 
of evil that this unholy and unpatriotic traffic is the cause of. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture* — There are a few very well cultivated farms in this 
parish. Potatoes form the principal article of farm produce ; and, 
in the case of a purely arable'possession, if the holder does not pay 
one-half of his rent by the sale of this root, his lease cannot be 
regarded as a very advantageous one. A large quantity of pota- 
toes is exported annually for the English and Irish markets. 

Kintyre is not distinguished for the excellence of its breed of 
black-cattle. 



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KILGALMONBLL AND KILBERRY. 411 

On some of the estates there are no leases at all, the teoants 
contiDuing from year to year, as tenants at will ; and it is surpris- 
ing how few removals occur within the space to which leases are 
generally extended. Such a system, however, cannot but ope* 
rate as a drawback upon agricultural improvement ; and the fact 
is, that there is but little progress in this department. Mr Camp- 
bell of Stonefield has proved, on his farm of Crear, in Kilberry 
parish, ht>w much the outlay of money can accomplish towards 
beautifying the aspect of a country, and procuring, at the same 
time, a fair remuneration for the expenditure of the capital. 

The landholders of this united parish have lent their sanction, 
for time immemorial, to the establishment of a cottage and vil- 
lage system over their estates.* A farm islet to a tenant at a giv- 
en rent, and he is subjected to no restrictions as to the manage- 
ment. He has cottagers in two or three places on his farm ; each 
of whom engages to pay a rent of from L. 2 to L. 5 per annum. 
But this is accomplished very frequently, by having recourse to il- 
licit distillation, and the evil practices therewith connected. The 
evils again, of the village system, are lamentable in the extreme. 
If the inhabitants can command a meal or two of potatoes per 
diem, their ambition rises no higher. In the parish of Kilcalmo- 
nell alone, exclusive of Tarbet, the burden^ laid upon the heritors 
for the maintenance of the poor is L. 50 this year. But the vices 
engendered directly by this system are still more to be deplored : 
and most earnestly would I beseech all my heritors to annihilate, 
as speedily as the laws of humanity permit, a system so fraught 
with such incalculable evil. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

The village of Tarbert contains a population of 700 or 800 ; 
the inhabitants depending mainly on the herring fishing. This 
village is probably the ancient county town of Argyle ; and is still 
a thriving little place. Tarbert is a post-town, the mail being 
transmitted thereto every lawful day from Glasgow, per one of the 
steamers, from whence it is forwarded, by land, to Campbelton. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The Kilcalmonell church was built about 
eighty years ago ; the Kilberry one in the year 1821. The seats 
are all free, to the extent of 600 in the former, and 700 in the 
latter ; there is also a chapel at Tarbert, supported by the Royal 
Bounty. There is an Independent meeting-house, erected some 
twenty or thirty years ago, where the minister oflSciates every al- 



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412 ABOYLESHIRB. 

ternate Sabbath. The number of members belonging to this 
body may be somewhere about twenty. The stipend of this united 
parish, for the last three years, has been aboat L.170. 

The clamant ecclesiastical destitution in the lowlands is the 
want of churches. We have a sufficiency of the material building, 
but we lack pastors to preach in our churches. In other words, 
we stand in much need of a State provision for additional ministers 
in this parish as in others in the Highlands. 

Education. — In this united parish there are two parochial 
schools, five or six supported by private subscription, and two So- 
ciety schools. The two parish schoolmasters have each about 
L.25 per annum, without the house accommodation. We would 
require, at least, three additional endowed schools to meet the de- 
mands of our people. 

Poor. — The number of paupers on the parish roll may vary 
between 40 and 55, many of them receiving 12s. per annum, whilst 
a few get from L.1 to L.2, lOs. We do not observe any growing 
disinclination on the part of the people to have recourse to paro- 
chial aid : but the contrary. 

Ale-houses. — There may be about twelve public-houses in the 
united parish ; not an unreasonably large number, considering the 
magnitude of its population. 



When the foregoing statement was written a few years ago, agri- 
culture, with the exception mentioned, was, as a science, almost 
unknown in the parish. Since that period, however, a consider- 
able change has taken place, I may say, in all the departments of 
this most useful branch of industry. The old system of cropping 
the same field successively by father, son, and grandson, without 
a pause, has been partially uprooted. Mr Campbell of Kilberry 
is experimenting on the opposite principle, on rather an extensive 
scale. Some of the chemical manures have been introduced. 
The cottage system of ancient times has received a check. And 
Alexander Morison, Esq. the new laird of Balnakill, is about to 
beautiiy the glen of his habitation there. On the estate of Loup 
also, the same improvement is taking place. Within the last few 
years Mr Campbell of Stonefield has planted an immense extent 
of land between Tarbert and Whitehouse. 

October 1843. 



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PARISH OF SOUTHEND* 

PRESBYTERY OF KINTYRB, SYNOD OF ARGYLB. 



I.— Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — This parish lies at the extremity of the peninsula of 
Kintyre, and consists of what were formerly the parishes of KiU 
colmkill and Kilblaan. Kilcolmkill literally signifies M«ce//o/'Cb- 
lum ofilie CellSf or, in other words, the Church of St Columbqythe 
founder of Churches, The remains of the former chapel, Kilblaan, 
the church of St Blaan^ are still visible. No vestige whatever re* 
mains of St Blaan*s chapel. These two parishes of Kilcolmkill 
and Kilblaan are now united, under the modern name of Southend 
or South Kintyre^ which the parish has borne since the Reforma- 
tion. 

Extent^ ^c — The extreme length of the parish is 1 1 miles, and 
greatest breadth 5 ; the whole being about 50 square miles. It 
is bounded on the east and south, by the Frith of Clyde, and the 
North Channel ; on the west, by the Atlantic ; and on the north, 
by the parish of Campbelton. 

Topographical Appearances. — Its figure is polygonal. There are 
no considerable ranges of mountains in this parish. The highest 
mountain, called Knockmoy, (or Hill of the Plain,) is 2036 feet 
above the level of the sea, and is the most remarkable for its height 
in the district of Kintyre ; it is a conspicuous object to all ves- 
sels coming from the westward. 

There are some valleys that intersect the parish with small 
streams running through them, the principal of which are Coni- 
glen and Glenbreckry, and which run at nearly parallel lines with 
each other. 

Caves. — This parish abounds with many caves ; some of these 
situated at Keil,*are of considerable dimensions, and have a very 
striking appearance. There is one of these caves from which, 
according to the tradition among the country people, a subter- 

* Diawn up by late incumbent, the Rev. Daniel Kelly. 



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414 ARGYLESHIRE. 

raneous passage extends six miles from the mouth of the cave to 
the Hill of Killellan. There is also another situated near the 
fort of Dunaverty, which was the resort of that very pious man, 
the Rev. James Boes, and whose memory is still held io very deep 
veneration. He here retired for meditation and prayer, and in 
consequence, it still retains the name of Boes* Cave, although be 
lived as far back as the time of the Revolution. 

Coast — The sea -coast formsa circuitous course of nineteen miles. 
The shore is chiefly sandy towards the east coast, but to the west 
is high and bold, and very rocky, and has a 6ne appearance from 
the sea. The coast is indented with several bays abounding in 
coral banks, and where vessels may occasionally anchor. The 
names are as follows : Dunaverty Bay, Carskey, and Machririoch. 
The principal headland is the Mull of Kintyre, called by the Ro- 
mans Epidium Promontoriumj where nature rears a strong barrier 
to resist the waves of the Atlantic* It is the nearest point of the 
whole island of Great Britain to Ireland, the distance being com« 
puted to be only eleven and a-half miles between the promontory 
and Tor Point, in the county of Antrim. At this place (the 
Mull of Kintyre) the wild and varied magnificence of the rocks 
projecting into the ocean, and exposed to all the fury of the 
waves, and the outrage of tempests, is peculiarly striking to the 
eye of a stranger. The solitude of the place is broken upon only 
by the hoarse murmuring of the waves. From the summit of (he 
adjoining mountain of Knockmoy, an admirer of the sublime in 
nature may delight his imagination with one of the grandest scenes 
in North Britain. The green isle of the ocean is spread in all 
its magnificence before him. The islands of Islay, Ratblin, Jura, 
Gigha, and the distant mountains of Mull are in view. On the 
east, there is a magnificent prospect of the Frith of Clyde, the 
lofty hills of Arrau, the coast of Ayrshire, and the Carrick and 
Galloway mountains. In the extreme horizon, Ailsa forms an ob« 
ject peculiarly striking. 

Island of Sanda. — Southend not only includes the two ancient 
parishes of Kilcolmkill and Kilblaan, but also the Island of Sanda, 
with two very small ones close to it, (Eilean nancaorach), the 
Sheep Isle and Glunamore. The principal island, Sanda, is di* 
vided by a channel of three miles broad, from the south-east 
coast of the parish. It is of an irregular form, and about four 
miles in circumference, forming a single sheep farm, and covered 
with excellent grass. Buchanan, in his History of Scotland, re* 



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SOUTHEND. 415 

fers to its ancient importance as the station of the Scandinavian 
fleets in their excursions to these coasts, and during their contests ' 
for the possession of Kintyre and the neighbouring islands* 

At the time it was Ihe rendezvous of the Danish fleet, it was 
called Avoua Porticosa ; ancT is still called Aven by the High- 
landers. Sanda, however, is the more ancient name, as appears 
from the life of St Columba, written by Adomnan, Abbot of lona, 
in the year 680. The anchorage is still much frequented by the 
smaller classes of vessels that navigate the Frith of Clyde. 

Patersoris Rock. — This is a large flat rock about one-sixth of a 
mile in length, which lies to the east-south-east of Sanda, and, 
from not having been correctly laid down in some of the charts, 
as well as from the rapidity or current of the tide, which flows di- 
rectly over the rock, and thereby causes vessels to deviate from 
their course, — it has occasioned many shipwrecks during the last 
twenty years, attended with the loss of not a few lives. This very 
dangerous rock is always covered at high water ; but at spring* 
tides, when there are, of course, low ebbs, the top of it is per- 
fectly dry. During neap-tides, it is covered with water to the 
depth of four feet. 

Meteorology. — The medium height of the thermometer, taken 
from daily observations, amounts, on an average, to 48 degrees ; 
and the pressure of the atmosphere, as ascertained by daily ob- 
servation by the barometer, is 29.54 inches. The following is 
the quantity of rain which fell in this district in the year 1831 ; 
but it may be mentioned, that the rain-gage by which it was mea- 
sured is situated on the western extremity of the parish, and on 
rather a high level, for which reason it may indicate a sreater fall 
than in some other parts of the parish. That year, 1831, may be 
considered as giving an average fall of rain. 

January, 1*74 August, • 2*93 

February, . 2*63 September, . 3*34 

March, . 5-46 October, . 6-19 

April, . 0*93 November, . 6*61 

May, . 1-40 December, . 4-76 

June, . 2-53 

July, . 2-54 Total inches, 41*06 

Hydrography. — The Frith of Clyde bounds the parish to the 

extent of above fifteen miles. The depth is variable in several 

places. At the distance of three miles from the shore, twelve 

fathoms of water are sometimes found. The tides along the 

coast run, at spring^^tides, at six miles an hour, but at neap-tides 

at the rate of three. Off the Mull of Kintyre, there is a very 



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416 ARGYLBSHIRE. 

great peculiarity in the tide. Within a mile and a-half of the 
promontor}', there runs an eddy tide like a whirlpool, and much 
stronger than that which runs in the channel, as, when the tide 
runs to the westward, this eddy tide runs to the eastward, along 
shore. Vessels have often been driven on shore from ignorance 
of this peculiarity in the tide. 

Riverg, — The two most considerable streams are, Coniglen 
and Breckry, — the latter stream rising from Knockmoy and 
falling into the sea at Carskey bay. The Coniglen is the most 
considerable of the two, and is subject to sudden risings ; its direc- 
tion is about south-east. It joins the Frith of Clyde at Duna- 
verty bay. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — 1. Dip and Direction of Strata. — 
The most general dip of the strata in this parish may be stated 
south and south-east The general direction of the principal 
formation is north-east and south-west The intrusion of trap 
and porphyry causes several derangements in different localities, 
as on the shore below Machririocli, forming the western portion 
of Bailmhuilin bay, in connection with the Arran^Man's Barrels 
and the Otter More. 

Here the strata of the new red sandstone and limestone are 
intercepted and altered in the dip, direction, and actual constitu- 
tion. In fact, the whole of the Pennyland seems to be caused by 
the rising of the trap rock in almost every form and constitution 
through that secondary formation. The general dip of this seems 
to coincide with the general dip of the strata of the district, though 
the angle of inclination is much lower. 

In different parts of the ridge of the Pennyland, the variegated 
red marly limestone, passes into gritty limestone and sandstone. 
The basaltic mass at Dunhian, in passing through this marl and 
sandstone, has altered them into reddish basaltic tufa, containing 
nodules of basalt with the same general tinge. In some places, 
the basalt assumes the columnar concretionary structure, and in 
the lower part of the dun, the altered marl or tufa shows the 
same tendency. There is a very distinct basaltic vein intercepting 
the old red sandstone and conglomerate strata at the shore, near 
the burying-ground at Keil. This does not appear to have al- 
tered or deranged the strata there. 

The rocks comprising the mountain ranges, are not very nu- 
merous. The western portion of the parish is almost entirely 
composed of mica-slate, a portion of the great mica-slate forma- 



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SOUTHEND. ^^' 

tion of the central or Grampian range, passing through the whole 
of the district of Kintyre. This includes Glen Breckry and all 
to the westward. The dip and direction is the same as noticed. 

In the upper part of the valley of Glen Breckry, the mountain- 
sandstone or quartz rock appears subordinate to the mica- slate. 
At Achnaslisaig, it is of the same colour and character as the 
limestone of Askomil, in the neighbourhood of Campbelton, on 
the north side of the loch. 

The Coniglen district is principally in porphyry and the old red 
sandstone formation. The mountain range, forming the division 
between Glen Breckry and Coniglen, is composed principally of 
mica-slate, as already mentioned ; but at different parts of the side 
next Coniglen, there are considerable hills both of claystone por- 
phyry and old red'sandstone (transition). The porphyry of KiU 
irvan, and the old red of Kilblaan and Keil, rest on and form the 
western boundary of the valley of Coniglen. The mica-slate is 
found in a small part at the Blecklate wood, and in the bed of 
the river, near the junction of the Coniglen and Caoran waters. 
At Kerrafuar, it again forms the ridge enclosing the glen on the 
western side. The opposite side of the valley, at Killellan, is formed 
by claystone and claystone-porphyry, which supports a small por* 
tion of the variegated red marly limestone and sandstone forma* 
tion. The porphyry extends from Killellan Hill through Ach- 
naclach. The lower part of the valley, as far as Dunglass Hill 
and Machrimore, is entirely of the old red. At Dunaverty, the 
coarse conglomerate of the old red sandstone appears extending 
from Brunerican. 

Kildavie Glen lies between the old red sandstone range above 
described, which is bounded in this parish on the west by Coni- 
glen ; east, by the sea ; on the north, by the continuation of the 
same formation in the adjoining parish of Campbelton ; and on 
the south, by the Kildavies. The Pennyland forms the opposite 
side of the glen. This is already noticed as composed of basalt 
greenstone in almost an endless variety, and new red sandstone 
formation. 

1 am inclined to think that we have primary transition, se- 
condary and alluvial formation. The mica-slate and subordinate 
varieties with limestone occupy the western portion of the parish^ 
and about three-sevenths of the whole extent 

The old red sandstone formation occupies about three-sevenths 
of the parish in the north-east. From the appearance of the rocks, 

ARGVLE, D d 



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418 ARQTLESHIRF. 

and the high angle of inclination, from 40^ to 50^ all the varieties 
of form usually met with are found here, from the coarsest con- 
glomerate to the finest flag, with a slaty structure. The hardest 
sandstone appears to be finely granular in a clay or wacke basis or 
ground. 

In Kintyre, the beds of mica slate, on its eastern shore, have 
an eastern dip, while those on the opposite side dip to the 
westward. The angles of the strata rise to about 25% and 
are in some places considerably less. A tract of micaceous 
slate succeeds the chlorite series towards the north, and is con- 
tinued in that direction as far as the Mull of Kintyre. At that 
place, it is immediately followed along the shore by the west of 
the Mull up to Ballachantuy and Killean by the red sandstone, 
without any interposed substance, — a fact easily explained by con- 
sidering the unconformable relation of this rock to the primary 
strata and the irregularity of its margin, consequent upon the pe- 
culiar situation which it occupies with respect to these. 

The secondary formation is principally found in the Pennyland 
above described. This forms about one-seventh of the parish. The 
summit of the range is composed of rocks of the trap series, and the 
shoulder at difierent places is formed of the new red or variegated 
marly lime and sandstone. At the eastern side, the trap rocks 
rise into the sea, forming dangerous submarine reefs at the Arran 
Man's Barrels and Rhua Mac Sheanaig, and in this bold head- 
land there is a very extensive cave. But, as far as has been exa- 
mined, there are neither stalactitic nor organic remains. Near the 
entrance, there is a pretty highly raised mound of rolled stones, 
such as are found on the beach. 

The structure of the island of Sanda corresponds very much 
with that of the opposite shore of Kintyre, and, as in many other 
similarsit nations, the geological continuity of the strata between 
the two serves to indicate the alterations which have taken place 
in the sea line, and the encroachments of the ocean on the bor- 
ders of the great estuary of the Clyde. The island of Sanda is 
composed chiefly of sandstone, and the sandstone of which it is 
composed is elevated to the north, the dip being to the southward, 
and varying from 15 to 20 degrees. It thus forms iiills of about 
300 feet in height, which, on some of the shores, are broken into 
clifis of moderate elevation. One of these forms a very picturesque 
object, presenting a natural arch of considerable dimensions. 
The rock is reddish and grey, and is interstratified with slaty clay 



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SOUTHEND. 419, 

of various colours^ but chiefly of a grey hue. It has been largely 
used in the building of the parish church of Southend, and several 
principal houses in the country. 

The catalogue of simple minerals is extremely brief. Quartz 
bein^ universally diffused is to be found in veins and imbedded 
masses in the mica slate formation, and it is sometimes found in 
druses of the porphyry crystallized, and inclining to amethyst. 
Calcspar is also found in the limestone districts. In the amygda- 
loid and basaltic rocks near Ballyshear, we have the cubicite ha 
veins and also steatite, analcime, and allied minerals. 

The alluvial deposits afford a very interesting example of a 
subaqueous deposit of sand and gravel, along the different valleys 
of Glenbreckry, Kildavie, and Machrimore, more especially near 
the sea. As these are generally under cultivation, and have long 
been so, they do not exhibit so very mathematical a coincidence 
as the plains and outlines of Glenrey and other pastoral districts, 
yet it is very easy to trace a level at from 20 to 30 feet above the 
level of the sea. This plain being formed of gravel and sand, has, 
of course, been hollowed out by the courses of the different rivers. 
There are no organic remains in this alluvium. At the Keil rocks 
there are several instances of a small portion of a fragmentary al- 
luvion resting on the small pinnacles of rock as on the margin. 

On all the mountain ranges, both of the primary and transition 
districts, there are extensive peat bogs. These, as usual, contain 
numerous trunks of large trees, imbedded several feet below the 
surface in this mossy ground, showing that this country was once 
under a forest garb, although now almost entirely bare of trees. 
There have been found, at different times, arrow-heads and other 
implements of war, and also querns, &c. 

There is considerable variety of soil, but I think that, on the 
slopes of the hills, the light gravelly soil on a till bottom is the 
most predominant Towards the sea coast on the east, a light 
loam is mixed with sand or gravel. The light and gravelly 
soils, and sometimes clay and an occasional intermixture of mossy 
or peat earth, most frequently occur. The earlier cultivation of 
the soil seems to have occupied solely the higher parts of the 
ridges, and on almost every hill top on the eastern portion, at 
least the furrows and enclosures of fields, are easily traced in the 
old sward. The depths of the furrows plainly indicate that the 
tillage had not been casual, or merely experimental, but frequent 
and successive. 



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420 ARGYLESHIRE. 

Of late yearSf the spirit of agricultural improvement has carried 
the cultivator into the low rich lands of the valleys ; and draiDing^ 
has enabled him to reap the reward of his enterprbe. Still, how- 
ever, there is a great want of a more extended system of perfect 
draining. 

The soil of the pasture ground is no less diversi6ed than the 
arable. Some of it is dry and kindly, and produces a sweet and 
fine pile of grass ; some of it wet and spongy, and covered with 
coai*se grasses and rushes. Some of the flat grounds are marshy 
and some mossy, and a very considerable proportion of what is 
hilly, is covered with heath. Where these lands approach the 
sea, the growth of such plants is checked, and at last destroyed, 
a fine green pasture succeeding, which, under proper management, 
is capable of producing good crops of oats and sometimes bear. 
The shores afibrd striking examples of the fertilizing powers which 
the vicinity of the salt water possesses, and of the influence it exerts 
in preventing the growth of bog plants and the consequent gene- 
ration of peat. The same effects are produced by the application 
of calcareous manures, under which treatment the useless plants 
disappear, and are succeeded by verdant pastures. The gravel 
and boulders along the shore are generally composed of the neigh* 
bouring rocks. Great large sandstones, as they are called, are 
found to consist of a kind of porphyritic granite, to which I know 
none similar in this district. There is another variety with smaller 
crystals of adularia or moonstone, something like specimens I have 
seen from Arran. There are also on the hills considerable blocks 
of mica and chlorite slate, basalt, clay stone porphyry ; and the 
coast-gravel contains all these kinds in small sizes, along with 
quartz nodules, evidently afforded by the conglomerate of the old 
red. All the trap rocks on the shore afford gravel and detached 
blocks close to the beach. There are two or three instances of 
banks formed and forming by drift-sand blowing from the beach 
along the Pennyland, Brunerican, Machribeg, and Strathmore. 
This last is a very interesting barrier between the marine and flu- 
viatile depositaries, and every year the lower part to the westward 
of Strathmore is in some degree altered. The sand and gravel 
thrown up by the powerful tide rolling round the Mull of Kintyre 
into Carskey Bay, forces up an embankment which causes the 
Glen Breckry water abruptly to turn its course to the westward, 
and to run parallel to the sea coast till it reaches another stream 
from the Strong Glen, and their united streams fall into the sea 

3 



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SOUTHEND. 421 

at tbe margin of the mica slate emerging from the surface. It 
sometimes happens that a great fall of rain swells the Glen 
Breckry water, and if this happens at low tide about the end of 
autumn, the river of Glen Breckry forces its way to the sea in the 
middle of Strathmore bay ; and this course it generally retains, at 
least during the rainy and boisterous months of winter. 

There is a bank of fine coral between the farm of Keil and 
Machribeg, which, if made use of by the farmers, would be found 
to be a superior manure to lime for cold clayey soils. This trea-> 
sure has been much neglected, and its value will never be fully or 
properly estimated, until a demand arises for it from other places. 
A great deal has been said of the advantages which have been 
derived from the use of bone as a manure. The quantity of that 
material which can be had in this country, or even imported 
from abroad, is extremely limited ; but corals, to which there is 
scarcely any limit, might be found more valuable than even bones* 
They are both of them animal substances, and consequently con- 
tain much value in a small compass. Tried as a manure, the 
quantities of corals found on the shores of Machribeg and Keil 
has been and would be found highly useful for gardens and outfield 
lands, and cold soil of every description. After being scattered 
on the land, it takes a long time to dissolve; but the good it does 
from year to year is permanent, and nothing is more excellent for 
grass. 

No mines of any value have been discovered in the parish. We 
have excellent quarries of limestone and whinstone for buildhig 
dikes* It is of infinite benefit to the progress of agriculture, that 
the parish abounds with limestone, which .the farmers make use of 
as manure upon ley ground, finding it very profitable in decom* 
posing heath and other vegetable substances upon outfields which 
were never before subjected to the operation of the plough. By 
following this mode of cultivation, the farmers are annually en« 
larging the extent of their cultivated soil, and bulk of stackyards. 

In the neighbourhood of the minister's manse, there is a large 
bank of Fuller's earth, which is exposed to view by the depreda- 
tions of the river during heavy rains, but has never been made use 
of either in an agricultural or commercial point of view. It is found 
in some of the glens, and particularly at Auchnaclach and Lagna* 
craig, partly white, but generally a mixture of white and brown* 
The white, however, is the best. Like the coral mentioned above, 
its value is not sufficiently appreciated, although the kind to be 



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422 ARGTLESHIRE. 

round here is of great use in cleaning oil out of cloth, aod tar oiiC 
of wool. The writer has learned, that, on the Duke of Bedford's 
property, it has been of great value as an article of commerce, and 
considerable quantities have been exported to foreign countries. 

Along the sea shore, there is abundance of cod, ling, aod whiting; 
but although such is the case, their value is far from being appre- 
ciated. 

Botany. — The almost total absence of wood gives the eouotr; 
that air of bleakness and sterility which, to the painter's eye, ii 
never compensated by flowery meadows or fertile fieldft. Tlie 
farm of Keil has assumed a very improved appearance, since it be* 
came the possession of the late Dr M'Larty. When he entered 
into possession of this property about twenty^four years ago, it was 
absolutely in a state of nature. He improved it in every possible 
way by draining and inclosures, planted some thousand of larch, 
poplars, and forest trees about his farm-house and gardens ; de* 
corated the place with a variety of beautiful shrubbery, which has 
rendered it an ornament to this part of the country ; and his rising 
plantations will ultimately prove a most valuable acquisition to his 
property. Mr McMillan of Levenstrath has also improved his 
property in a similar way. Mr McDonald of Ballyshear deserves 
great praise for his exertions in improving and beautifying his pro- 
perty, encouraging his tenantry ; and his exertions have been un- 
remitting ever since he settled in the parish. He has interspersed 
his lands with belts and clumps of planting, inclosed them with 
hedges, built a range of the most splendid office*houses to be seen 
in the country, improved, drained, and limed waste land^ and 
opened up a handsome approach to his elegant mansion-house. 
II. — Civil History. 

The Mull of Kintyre is the place where the Dalriads land- 
ed and settled in 503, under the direction of Lorn, Fergus and 
Angus, sons of Ere Lorn acquired possession of the northern 
division of the county of Argyle, which still retains his name. 
Fergus remained in Kintyre, and Angus is supposed to have colo- 
nized Islay. In 718, one of the descendants of Fergus, named 
Duncan, was styled king of Kintyre. According to Pinkerton, 
the whole ancient territories of this tribe did not exceed the limits 
of the present Argyleshire ; but there is no portion of history so 
obscure as that of the Irish Scoto Kings, from the period of their 
landing in this parish, till their accession to the Pictish throne in 
843. In 1158, Somerled, Lord of Kintyre, married a daughter of 



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SOUTHEND. 423 

the King of Man, and the Chronicles of Man inform us that 
by this Princess he had four sons : — Dugald, of whom came the 
M^Dougalds of Lorn ; Reginaldi the progenitor of all the 
McDonalds, and Other two sons, Angus and Olave, of whose issue 
history has not recorded any thing memorable. After the battle 
of Methven, the illustrious Bruce fled to Kintyre, and was hospita- 
bly entertained by Angus, Lord of Kintyre, at the castle of Saddle, 
and on his way to Ireland he took refuge in the fortress of Duna- 
verty, in this parish, where, according to Archdeacon Barbour, he 
remained for some nights. That fortress, the remains of which 
are still visible, was built on the top of a tremendous precipice, 
hanging over the sea, which nature, assisted by art, rendered im- 
pregnable. The sea nearly surrounds it ; and the fosse cover- 
ed with a drawbridge, (after which two or three walls, one within 
the other,) fortifled the ascent. From this fortress Bruce was sent 
by Angus to the island of Rathlin, distant about twenty miles, and 
there he remained in concealment until afker the death of Edward 
L of England. On the island of' Sanda, distant about three miles 
from Dunaverty, is a hill still known by the name of Prince Ed- 
ward's hill. The only Prince of that name connected with the his- 
tory of Scotland is the brother of Robert Bruce, and the tradi- 
tion in the parish is, that he was placed there to give timeous 
notice to the king of the approach of danger. At the battle 
of Bannockburn, Angus and his followers fought on the right 
flank of the army, and, as a mark of distinction for his gallant con- 
duct on that memorable day, Bruce assigned to him and his de- 
scendants, the same honourable position in the royal army on all 
future occasions. This Angus, who was buried in the monastery 
of Saddle, was, after his death, denominated the Great McDonald ; 
but his grandson John abandoned the interests of David Bruce, 
and espoused the cause of Edward Baliol He afterwards, how- 
ever, returned to his allegiance, and was married to the daughter 
of Robert IL Of this marriage there were four sons, Donald 
Lord of the Isles, John of Antrim, Alexander and Allan. Donald, 
in right of his wife, succeeded to the earldom of Ross, and his 
son Alexander was designed Earl of Ross and Kintyre and Lord 
of the Isles. John, the son of Alexander, died without lawful is- 
sue, when John, the son of Angus, his natural son, claimed his 
estates. The earldom of Ross was taken possession of by the 
Crown, and James IV. held a Parliament in Kintyre in the year 
1493, and emancipated the vassals from their connection with 



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424 ARGYLESHIRE. 

those who claimed to represent the Lords of the Isles^ and grant* 
ed theiDi de novoy charters holding of the Crown ; but the descend* 
ants of John of Antrim claimed Kintyre, and their vassals still 
adhering to the representative of their ancient Lords, James V. 
found it necessary, in 1636, to make an expedition to Kintyre to 
subdue the Macdonalds ; he built the castle of Kilkerran, and 
placed a garrison in it, but James Macdonald, then chieftain of 
the clan, destroyed the garrison, and demolished the walls. His 
son Angus, and McLean of Duart, carried on a savage feud of ex- 
termination against each other, and being prevailed on in 1591, 
to go to court for the purpose of having their differences recondi* 
ed, they were both committed prisoners to the Castle of Edin- 
burgh, but were afterwards released on payment of a small fine* 
Angus, however, continued to display his innate cruelty in acts 
of the most cold-blooded murder. He resided chiefly at the 
Castle of Lochhead (now Campbeltown). He put the forti- 
fication of Dunaverty, in this parish, in a state of repair, as 
it was the principal channel of communication between bim 
and Antrim. He repeatedly resisted and defied the Govern- 
ment, and being complained of by his Protestant neighbours, the 
Earl of Argyle, who was in arms after having suppressed an in* 
surrectlon among the clans in the north, was ordered to march 
against him. On his approach, Angus and his son James, with 
their followers, fled to Ireland, when Argyle obtained quiet pos- 
session of Kintyre. The lands of Macdonald were then forfeited 
to the Crown, and gifted by King James VI. to the Earl of Ar- 
gyle. In the course of a few years thereafter, Angus was par- 
doned for all his crimes, and a pension was bestowed on his son, 
who was knighted, but the lands were never restored. Sir James 
died without issue, when Kintyre was claimed by Coll Macdo- 
nald, commonly called Coll Kittoch, from his being left-handed. 
Some writers say he was a natural son of the Earl of Antrim, and 
a late author of the History of the Highlands and of the High- 
land Clans, calls him a native of lona ; but the tradition in this 
parish is, that he was the nearest and lawful heir of Sir James 
Macdonald. Coll Macdonald, who was noted for his strength 
and prowess, left no means untried to harass Argyle, and recover 
possession of the lost territories of his family. He, with the aid 
of his partizans, took violent possession of the Island of CoUonsay, 
and, aided by his clansmen in Islay, frequently invaded Kintyre 
for the purpose of plunder. His son, Alexander, commanded the 



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SOUTHEND. 425 

nuxiliaries sent by Lord Antrim to assist the royal cause in the 
struggle between Charles I. and his Parliament. Alexander 
served under Montrose as his major-general; and immediately 
after the battle of Inverlochy, where Argyle was defeated on the 
2d of February 1644, his father, Coll, invaded Kintyre, and took 
possession of it as his inheritance. When Montrose was appointed 
Captain-General of Scotland, he conferred the honour of knight- 
hood on his major-general ; and, afbr the battle of Philiphaugh, 
the Earl of Huntly in the north, and Sir Alexander Macdonald 
in the south, were the only chieftains that remained in arms 
against the Covenanters. After subduing Huntly, Lieutenant- 
General Leslie marched south, and being joined by the Earl of 
Argyle at Inverary, they invaded Kintyre, and, after a skirmish 
which took place at Rownaherine, in the parish of Killean, on 
the 25th May 1647, they retreated to Dunaverty. Sir Alexander 
placed his kinsman, Archibald Macdonald of Sanda, a very gal- 
lant and experienced ofiScer, who had also served under Montrose, 
assisted by Archibald Og, or Young, his son, with 300 men in 
the fortress, with a few of the clan Macdonald who had joined 
them, and went himself with his father and the remainder of his 
forces, to Islay. General Leslie having been joined by the Mar- 
quis of Argyle and a vast number of his clan, who collected to 
his standard, as he went along, proceeded to Dunaverty, and re- 
gularly invested the castle, which was for a considerable time 
most gallantly defended against an army ten times the number of 
the garrison. During the month of June, several desperate as- 
saults were made upon it, but the assailants were always repulsed 
with considerable loss. About the 10th of July, however, the 
besiegers discovered that the garrison was supplied with water, 
by means of pipes communicating with a spring without, and a 
well within. These were cut off, and when a party from the 
fortress made an attempt to supply themselves from a stream near 
the base of the rock, they were all slain. The want of water, in 
the dry sultry month of July, drove the besieged to despair ; and, 
as it was impossible to hold out any longer, a flag of truce was 
sent to General Leslie and the Marquis of Argyle, offering to 
surrender on such terms as might be agreed on, and, after seve- 
ral stipulations proposed by Archibald Og Macdonald of Sanda 
had been rejected, the garrison at last surrendered to the mercy 
of the kingdom. General Leslie afterwards made a nice dis* 
tinction, that the besieged had yielded themselves ^o the king- 



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426 ARGYLBSHIRE* 

dom's mercy aad not to his, and, availing himself of this infamous 
ciisuisti*}', be caused as disgraceful, bloody, and iDdiscrimiBate a 
massacre to take place as the pen of history has e?er recorded- 
The whole garrison were put to the sword, except one young 
man of the name of M'Dugald, saved by Sir James Turner, and 
the infant son of Archibald Og Macdonald of Sanda, who was 
carried by stealth out of the fortress by bis nurse, before the mas- 
sacre commenced. 

In the indiscriminate carnage, both Archibald More Macdonald 
of Sanda, and his son, Archibald Og, a young man of great gal- 
lantry, fell, and with them the power of the Macdonalds of Kin- 
tyre and Islay, who, from this period, may be said to be no more 
a clan. After leaving Dunaverty, Coll Kittoch took the command 
of the fortress at Dunniveg, in Islay ; and Sir Alexander pro- 
ceeded with part of his forces to Ireland, and there joined the 
Royal army, where he was soon afterwards killed in a battle fought 
against the Earl of CarUngford. Coll was taken prisoner at the 
siege of Dunniveg, and afterwards hanged at Dunstaffnage. Nei- 
ther Coll nor his son left issue, and Kintyre was never afterwards 
claimed by any of the descendants of the Lords of the Isles. 

Sir Alexander Macdonald's uncle, Archibald Mor Macdonald 
of Sanda, would have succeeded him ; but he, as well as his gal- 
lant son and heir, fell on that day. This Archibald Og was suc- 
ceeded by his only son, Ronald Macdonald of Sanda, then an 
infant at the breast. He and his nurse. Flora M^Cambridge, bad 
been taken to the garrison as a place of safety on the approach 
of the enemy ; and, during the shocking massacre which ensued, 
when the child's father and grandfather were slain, this faithful 
nurse made her escape with her charge naked in her arms to a 
cave in the Moil. 

This Ronald became a person of considerable consequence. 
He married Dame Anne Stewart, sister to the first Earl of Bute, 
thereby strengthened the interest of his family, and obtained char- 
ters to some of his lands from the Bishop of Whitehaven ; it being 
the policy of the Argyle family to prevent the Macdonalds ob- 
taining charters from any others than themselves ; but, at this 
time, the Argyle interest' was low, — the Marquis having suffered 
on the scaffold, a. d. 1661.*^ 

* Archibald Mor Macdonald of Sanda, and his son, Archibald Og> the father of 
Ronald above-mentioned, were interred in the middle of a field on the farm of Ma- 
chribcg, not far from the shore. The place where their remains were deposited, along 



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SOUTHEND. 427 

The peninsula of Kintyre, which we have seen was possessed 
by the Macdonalds for ages, was gifted by James VL to tlie Earl 
of Argyle in 1613; and, when Angus Macdonald and bis son 
James, with their vassals, fled to Ireland, in consequence of the 
overwhelming force which Argyle brought to bear upon them to 
effectuate their expulsion, after Ai^gyle had thus obtained posses- 
sion, he imported a colony of agriculturists and graziers to occupy 
the deserted lands. These people being kindly entertained en- 
couraged others to follow ; and, in the course of a few years. Kin- 
tyre was principally inhabited by strangers. But, on the defeat of 
Argyle by Montrose, 2d February 1644, Macdonald again reco- 
vered possession of the country, when the lowlanders precipitately 
fled to Ayrshire, and soon after swelled the ranks of the Cove- 
nanting army. Coll Macdonald then divided the again deserted 
lands among bis followers ; but, on the total defeat of the Roy- 
alists after the battle of Dunaverty in July 1647, Argyle again 
ultimately recovered possession of the country. In 164B, shortly 
after Arg}'le and Leslie left Kintyre, the plague broke out, and 
depopulated the greatest part of the country. When the plague 
bad subsided, the Marquis of Argyle imported a colony of agri- 
culturists from Ayr and Renfrewshire. 

In 1662, when the Act Recissory was past, and Prelacy restor- 
ed, and the persecution soon thereafter raged with great violence 
in these counties, a number of the inhabitants fled to Kintyre, 
where they were cherished and sheltered by their countrymen and 
relatives who had previously settled in the country. 

The noble family of Argyle, to their immortal honour, gave an 
asylum, during those perilous times which intervened between the 
Restoration and the Revolution, to several Ayrshire and Renfrew- 
shire gentlemen of the Covenant, when cruelly oppressed by the 
Government, — among others to the Laird of Ralston, Maxwell of 
William wood. Maxwell of South Barr, Hamilton of Wishaw, and 
Maxwell of Milnwood, and Dunlop of Garnkirk ; and when these 
gentlemen could return home in safety, their farms remained in the 

with those of another chieftain, it is said, of Largie, is marked by three large flagstones, 
which are now sunk considerably into the earth. Though the field where they lie 
has been regularly ploughed and cultivated for more than a century past, yet, much 
to the honour of the feelings of the people, this spot still remains untouched, and is 
regarded with a solemn respect to the memory of the brave. 

In the year 1822, after an uncommon high tide, accompanied with a gale of wind, 
the sand was diifted from a bank in the farm of Brunerican, which lies in the imme* 
diate neighbourhood of Dunaverty; and there thus became exposed to view an im- 
mense charnel house of human bones, skulls, with the bones of legs, arms, &c. scat- 
tered about in every direction. 



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428 ARGYLESHIBE. 

hands of their followers, who now constitute the lowland class in thi's 
parish, and who still possess peculiarities belonging to the period 
of their removal to Kintyre. Their descendants still occupy a 
number of the best farms in this parish* They are a sober, hard- 
working, industrious class of people, who have very rarely amalga- 
mated themselves by intermarriages with the Highlanders. So 
far, indeed, do they carry this unsocial feeling, that they have a 
place of sepulture for themselves, detached only by a strand from 
that of their Highland brethren. The names of the principal fol- 
lowers of the gentlemen above-mentioned who settled in the coun- 
try, were Ralston, Dunlop, Colville, Reid, and Huie. 

In the latter end of last century, the Lowlanders complained of 
the occasional absence of the parish minister, and as many of them 
did not understand the Gaelic language, they, in the year 1798» 
built a church of their own in connection with the Relief Synod, 
where English alone is preached. The Duke of Argyle, principal 
proprietor and patron of the parish, gave them ground for their 
chapel, and accommodation for their minister. Although they 
joined the Relief body, they do not consider themselves dissenters 
from the Church of Scotland. 

Land'Otoners, — The land-owners of the parish are seven in 
number : 



Names. 


Rental. 




Duke of Argyle, 


L.5000 





William M'Dooald. Esq. of Ballyshear. 


1100 





John McMillan M«NeiU, Esq. of Carakey. 


600 





Donald M'Millan, Esq. of Lepbenstrath, 


600 





George M'Neill, Esq. of Ugadale, 


200 





William McDonald, Esq. of Sanda, 


160 





John M*Larty, Esq. of Keil, 


150 






Total rental of the parish, L.78I0 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial register extends no far- 
ther back than the year 1765. The old registers were unfortu- 
nately destroyed by a iire which accidentally took place in the 
study of the genlSman who was then clergyman of the parish, the 
Rev. David Campbell; but since that period, the register has 
been regularly kept. 

Antiquities. — There are some obelisks in the parish, the erec- 
tion of which tradition assigns to the Picts. Many urns of rude 
manufacture, and filled with boneS) have been dug up a little to 
the east of Machrimore Mill. 

The ruins of a religious house of St Columba near the shore 
of Keil are still pretty entire. The tradition connected with 



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SOUTHEND. ^29 

this is, that St Columba landed here on his way from Ireland to 
the Hebrides. Here also is the pedestal of a large stone cross, 
no doubt dedicated to the memory of the saint, but which has 
been removed from its proper place, and now lies neglected at 
Inveraray. On the lands of Machririoch, near the mansion-house 
of Mr McDonald of Ballyshear, are also the remains of a religious 
edifice called after, and dedicated to, St Coivin. In the island of 
Sanda, are also situated the ruins of a chapel dedicated to S( 
Ninian, together with two crosses of very rude design. In this 
burying-ground, there is a superstitious story, universally be- 
lieved, respecting an alder tree growing over the reputed grave 
of the saint, over which should any one walk, even by chance, he 
is doomed to die before a year expire* Like the former reposi- 
taries of the dead, this burying-ground also shows every mark of 
neglect, being unenclosed ; the grave-stones are broken and de- 
faced, and betoken that want of affection and respect for the dead 
which is cherished by the rudest nations. No vestige remains of 
the parish church of St Blane. Here also neglect is conspicuous. 
The chapel was carried away by the water of Coniglen, which 
passes close by it, as was also the whole of an extensive cemetery 
attached to it, with a very small exception, which now forms the 
bank of the river, and human bones may now be seen bleaching 
in the sun. We must not omit to mention the ruins of St Cathe- 
rine Chapel, situated in a lovely spot on the banks of a stream in 
the secluded pastoral vale of Glenadle, where, close to the cha- 
pel, there is a cemetery and holy well, frequented by diseased per- 
sons to a late date. In this parish are situated the remains of 
what are usually denominated Danish forts. The principal re- 
mains of one of these are situated on the farm of Balemacumra, 
which is near the Mull of Kintyre. The situation is almost inac- 
cessible, being on the head of a perpendicular rock 180 feet in 
height, the base of which is about 100 feet from the sea. The 
fort is surrounded by three walls. The inner is 12 feet in thick- 
ness, the second 6 feet, and the outer wall 3 feet. The space be- 
tween the inner wall and the edge of the precipice is 66 feet in 
length, and its medium width 22 feet. 

Minuters. — Mr Duncan O'May was minister of this parish in 
the year 1631. Mr David Simson was settled in 1655, and outed 
in 1663; afterwards indulged ; in August 1685 banished, by orders 
of Government, to New Jersey, where he died. He was succeed- 
ed by his son, Mr David Simson, who conformed to the Prelatic 



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430 ARCnXESHCRE. 

establishment; but, at the Revolution, recanted, and was minister 
of Killarow, in Islay, where he died. May 1700. Mr Dugald 
Campl)ell was ordained minister of Southend 1 1th May 1696. 
Mr David Campbell, ordained 22d September 1742. Mr Donald 
Campbell, admitted 3d September 1794, and translated to Kilnin- 
ver, in the Presbytery of Lorn, in 1798. Mr John M^Keicb, ad- 
mitted the 8th May 1799; died the 16th June 1815. Mr Da- 
niel Kelly, ordained 12th June 1816, and translated to Campbel- 
town 23d January 1833. Mr Donald Campbell, ordained 9th 
May 183a 

Modem Buildinffs.'^Smce the publication of the last Statistical 
Account, there have been several new mansion-houses built by the 
residing heritors, and particularly those of Mr McDonald of Bal- 
lyshear; Dr M*Larty, Keil; Colonel M*Neill at Carskey; and 
Mr McMillan at Levenstrath. There has also been built a new 
manse and school-house. The most Valuable public building in 
the parish is the light house at the Mull of Kintyre. 

Light House at the MuU of Kintyre. — The Mull of Kintyre 
light-house was begun to be built in 1786, and was finished in the 
year 1788) and is a work of great utility and importance for the 
navigation of the channel between Scotland and Ireland. This 
establishment is one of the extensive range of light-houses erected on 
the coast by the Board of the Commissioners of the Northern Light- 
houses, instituted by Act of Parliament in the year 1786, whose 
jurisdiction extends to the entire coast of Scotland and the Isle of 
Man. The Light-house Commissioners by their first Act were 
authorized to collect small duties upon shipping, and in the first 
instance to erect only four light-houses upon the principal head- 
lands of the coast, of which the Mull of Kintyre was one. The 
site of this building was very inaccessible, both by sea and land, as 
it is perched on a cliff about 280 feet above the level of the sea, 
and near to those rocks, known to mariners by the familiar name of 
^f the Merchants." Towards the sea, a landing is opposed by the 
strength and current of the tides, and the almost continually bois- 
terous state of the waves dashing upon this iron-bound shore, which 
consists of immense masses of mica-slate and quartz. The 
light-house on the opposite side is environed by mountains and 
morasses, and is about five miles from the nearest habitation. The 
buildings were erected by Mr Peter Stuart of Campbelton, but 
the light-room and the reflecting apparatus were brought from 
Edinburgh, and carried chiefly upon men's shoulders over the 



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SOUTHRND. 



481 



mountains. The work having in this arduous manner been com- 
pleted, the light was exhibited for the first time on the night of 
the 1st day of December 1788. 

The new road formed through the mountains of the Mull com- 
menced in 1828, is found to give great facilities in communicat- 
ing with the light-house, and conveying every necessary article. 

The Mull of Kintyre light, according to the description in the 
^^ British Pharos," is known to mariners as a stationary light, 
*^ appearing like a star of the first magnitude at the distance of six 
or seven leagues," but 'it is to be regretted that dense fogs occa- 
sionally rest upon the high land of the Mull, while it is clear be- 
low ; by which the light is at times obscured. 

Mills, — There are two mills in the parish, one on the property 
of the Duke of Argyle, and the other upon the property of Mr 
McDonald of Ballyshear. 

1 1 1. — POPUL ATION. 

In the year 1755, the number of souls in the parish was computed at 1391 

1793, . . . 1300 

1795, ... 1625 

1902, . 1825 

181 1, . 1899 

1821, 2004 

1831, . 2120 

1841, 1598 

There is one village in the parish, situated near the shore ofi* 
Dunaverty, with a population of 98 souls, and which has not much 
increased since its first commencement. 

Number of deaf, 1 ; deaf, dumb, and insane, 1 ; blind, 2; fa- 
tuous, 3 ; total, 7. 

Lcanguage. — The language generally spoken by two-thirds of 
the people is Gaelic ; but, from the establishment of schools and 
the intercourse with Campbelton, and the Lowland districts of Scot- 
land, the English language is beginning to be universally under- 
stood. Families who understand Gaelic best^ :l\0\ do. English 
best, 145. 

IV; — Industet. 

Agriculture. — The parish consists of 25,000 Scotch acres. 
The Duke of Argyle possesses of these 18^625 acres, 10 poles. 

It has been ascertained that the proportion of arable to pas- 
ture is nearly as one to five. The parish consists of 89 merk 
lands. A third might be added to the now cultivated land with 
a profitable application of capital. 

Old valued rent of the parish, L.409, %. 4d. Sterling. 



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432 ARGYLESHIRE. 

From 100 to 150 acres may be under wood, either natural or 
planted. 

Live-Stock, — Throughout Kintyre, in general, and the parish of 
Southend, the principal breed of sheep is the black-faced. It was 
introduced by store-ma^^ters from the south, who brought their 
own sheep, — the Linton along with them. It is much to be regret* 
ted, that the Cheviot had not been introduced in place of the Lin- 
ton. This kind is indeed hardy, and well adapted to a moun- 
tainous region ; but their wool is coarse, loose, and shaggy, and 
they are subject to a very fatal disease, — the braxy, — which, before 
the introduction of these sheep, was totally unknown in this coun* 
try. Several, however, of the more substantial tenants are in 
the practice of rearing English sheep for the use of their fami- 
lies, and allow them to pasture along with their black-cattle. 
Some considerable attention has been paid to the improvement of 
the native sheep of the district by the introduction of black-faced 
tups. The new Leicesters have lately been introduced upon the 
lowlands, and the soil appears to agree admirably with them, 
though, from the dampness of the climate, they must be housed 
during winter. 

In this parish, and throughout Kintyre, the cattle are of an 
inferior description to those in the upper part of the county of 
Argyle, being a cross between the Irish and West Highland, and 
have merely a faint resemblance to the original breed of Highland 
cattle. 

Mr Stewart of Glenbuckie, the Chamberlain of Kintyre, has 
very much improved the breed of cattle by introducing hand- 
some bulls into the district; and he has also established a dairy 
of forty- five low country cows upon one of his own farms, as an 
example to the inhabitants of the district to excite them to pay 
more attention to that breed of cattle. He has been very success- 
ful in the making of imitation English cheese, and obtains for this 
article the highest English price in the Glasgow market. 

The general agricultural management is good. The soil is of 
a light loam and sandy nature along the sea coast ; but produces 
potatoes in great abundance, and yields from sixteen to twenty 
seeds. Turnips grow well when properly managed. Bear or 
big thrives well ; but the soil, particularly in the eastern dis- 
trict of the parish, is considered too light for wheat, barley, or 
beans. But, in many parts of the parish, where there is deep 
loam and strong land, could good enclosures be obtained, wheat 



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SOUTHEND. 433 

would be found to answer well. It is not, however, cultivated ; 
but beans are now raised in great abundance. 

The tenantry have been industrious in draining to a very great 
extent, wJiich, from the nature of the soil, is much required ; and 
their mode of doing so is by cutting the drains three feet across 
and four feet deep, and piping with stones. In this way, within 
the last twelve years, nearly a third has been added to the arable 
land. 

The Duke of Argyle has straightened and embanked the 
water of Coniglen. The undertaking was one of great extent, 
and although attended with the expense of L. 1600, has added 
much to the value of his Grace's property. 

Lecaes. — Leases are generally for nineteen years. 

The tenants generally build their own houses, but the proprie- 
tors in some cases give assistance. The houses of some of the 
inferior tenants are built with clay, and are generally low, 
narrow, and cold. This is the more inexcusable, as stone 
and lime are at no great distance. There has, however, been 
lately a farm-steading erected on the Duke of Argyle's lands of 
Machribeg, which will compete with most in any part of the king- 
dom. 

The farm-houses of nearly all the better class of tenants are ex- 
cellent and substantial. Their roofs are indeed thatched with straw, 
which is a disadvantage ; and were slate roofs introduced, it would 
be of great advantage. 

Quarries and Mines. — There are excellent quarries of lime and 
whinstone; the latter used for farm-buildings and dikes. The 
use of lime as a manure is pretty general, and has been found 
most highly useful for the purposes of agriculture. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

The distance from Campbelton, the nearest market-town, is 
nine miles. There is one village called Newton Argyle. The 
nearest post-town is Campbelton. There are no turnpike roads 
in this parish ; but those we have, owing to the vigilant care of 
Mr Macdonald of Ballyshear, the principal residing heritor, 
have been greatly improved. Several good and substantial bridges 
have been built, and many places straightened and levelled, — in- 
deed, the state of the roads is creditable to the district, consider- 
ing the small means at the disposal of those who have the super- 
intendence of them. 

Ecclesiastical State.^^The church stands on a beautiful bank, ris- 

ARGYLE. E O 



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434 ARGYLBSHIRE. 

iDg gradually from the stream of Coniglen, which flowspast it on the 
south-east. It was built in the year 1774, and is at present in a 
good state of repair. It is capable of accommodating 600 persons. 
The sittings are all free. 

The manse was built in the year 1816. The extent of the 
glebe is 8 acres 1 rood, Scotch measure, and may be Yalued at 
L. 15 Sterling. The amount of the stipend is L. 58^ 9s. 9^d^ 
paid by the heritors, with an allowance of L. 8, 6s. 8d. for com* 
munion elements; and L.91, 10s. 7d. more is allowed from the 
Exchequer. 

There is also, as already stated, a Relief meeting-house, which 
was built in 1798^ when a number of the lowland tenants who did 
not relish sermons in the Gaelic language, applied to the late 
Duke of Argyle for ground to build a place of worship, which he 
was pleased to grant ; but as the bulk of the population are High- 
landers, and as many of the Lowlanders have emigrated to 
America, it is but thinly attended. 

Education. — There are four schools in the parish,— a parochial 
school; one connected with the Society in Scotland for Propa- 
gating Christian Knowledge ; one in the east side of the parish, 
at Glenhervie, to which His Grace the Duke of Argyle gives Lf.4 ; 
and an unendowed school. Parochial schoolmaster^s salary, L.d4, 
4s. 4^d. ; fees, L.30 : total, L.64, 4s. 4^d. Society schoolmas- 
ter, L.16 from the Society; from the Duke of Argyle, L.5; fees, 
L.10 : total, L.31. The parochial schoolmaster has the legal ac- 
commodations.* 

* I beg to mention one well authentieated droumstance, for the purpose of sbow- 
iDg how high our privileges are, compared with those of our forefiithera in this 
country. About one hundred and forty years ago, there appears to have been a great 
scarcity of Bibles in the parish. There was an Irish Bible, the property of the kirk- 
session, the gift or the illustrious Boyle. I find in the old records of the presbytery 
of Kintyre, an urgent application from Mr M*Neill of Tirfergus, a respectable he- 
ritor of the parish, for the use of this Bibfe. The following particulars are extracts 
from the records of presbytery. <* At Campbeltown, Sd August 1692, for as much 
as John McNeill of Tirfergus addressed the presbytery for the loan of the Irish Bible 
gifted by Sir Robert Boyle to the parish of Southend, in Kintyre, for the use of the 
ministers that shall be in the said parish, promising that he wiu hare special care of 
it, and that he shall return it upon demand,— the presbytery oonsidering the pre- 
sent vacancy of Southend, the presbytery condescends that Mr Robert Duncanson 
(in whose custody the said Bible is at present) deliver the same to the said John 
McNeill, he being obliged to return the same in as good order as he now received it 
to the future minister of the said parish, or to any other whom the presbytery of 
Kintyre shall appoint, under the penalty of such a sum as the presbytery shall no- 
minate." 

<* At Campbeltown, the 14th December 1699, ibrasmuch as the presbytery con* 
vened at Campbeltown, the dd day of August 1692, allowed Mr Robert Duncanson 



to be aooountable for the same, 1 

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SOUTHEND. 435 

Poor and Parochial Ptmcb.>— The average number of persons 
receiving palrochial aid is 40, and the yearly average sum allotted 
to each person is 10s. per annum. The annual amount of contri* 
bution for the relief of the poor arisingf rom church collections, 
L.24; hasty marriage money, L.5: total, L.29. 

Inns* — There is one inn in the parish, situated near the village ; 
and four other houses in which spirits are retailed. 

FueL — The operation of manufacturing and carrying home peats 
for fuel is attended with great expense of time and labour. There 
is an inferior kind of coals in the neighbouring parish of Camp« 
belton ; but they are at the distance of ten or twelve miles from 
the most populous districts of the parish. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

In the year 1793^ the rental of the parish was L.3000 : it is now 
nearly L.8000. And nearly double has been added to the arable 
land by draining and cultivation. 

The disadvantages to which the parish is liable are, want of 
timber and want of inclosures, scarcity of fuel, leases too short. 
The culture of wheat, in a certain proportion, ought to be adopted 
into the agriculture of the parish, since, where barley grows, wheat 
may very often be successfully produced. 

Cottagers ought to be more encouraged. The Mull of Kin- 
tyre has been converted into an immense sheep*walk, under one 
Company, and is now occupied by 6000 sheep. This was half-a 
century ago, a great pastoral country, which then reared and sup** 
ported thirty or forty families, whose ancestors had occupied that 
remote and extensive region for ages. 

The erection of a pier or quay at Dunaverty bay would not 
only prove a lasting bene&t to the parish, but also greatly enhance 
the value and sale of the raw produce, by enabling tenants to ship 
their grain, potatoes, &a direct for the Clyde and other places, 
where there is always a ready market, instead of being exposed to 

the said Bible to the said John, and that he received bis obligation for the same, of 
the date the 16th day of November last, which obligation was produced in pretence 
of the presbytery, and appointed to be recorded infitturam rei metnorkttn,* 

Followeth the tenor of the obligation granted by the said John M*Keill for the 
above-mentioned Irish Bible: <* I, John McNeill of Tirfergus, grants me to have 
received firom Mr R. O., minister of Campbeltown, (according to the appointment 
of the presbytery of Kintyre), the church Bible of the Irish character, bntowed bv 
the Honourable Sir Robert Boyle on the parish of Southend of Kintyre, which 
Bible I oblige me to restore sound and entire, and to deliver the same to the mi- 
nister of the said parish or to the presbytery when required, under the penalty of 
. In witness whereof, I have written and subscribed these pre* 
s^nts fit Campbeltown, the liSth November 1092 years. Sic lubseribitur J(x M'NvalIn** 



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436 ARGTLBSHIRB. 

the necessity of tiJiing the produce of their farms to Campbeltoo 
by land carriage, and there often compelled to dispose of it at a 
sacrifice of value. The erection of this pier would also enable 
the parish to be supplied with coals direct from the ports of Ayr 
and the Troon, or from Ballycastle in Ireland. 

November 184a 



THE UNITED 

PARISH OF SADDELL AND SKIPNESS. 

PRESBTTERY OF KtNTYRE, 8TNOD OF ARGTLE. 

THE REV. JOHN MACFARLANE, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — Saddell is found in ancient chartularies written in the 
various forms of Saundle, Sandel, and Sandale, which, in the 
Scandinavian language, signifies eandy plain, Skipness, in the 
same language, signifies ship-pointy and was applied to this locality 
from its having been a central station for the fleets of the NoroieB 
during their struggles for conquest upon this and the neighbour- 
ing coast Saddell, disjoined from the parish of Killean, and Skip- 
ness, from Kilcalmonell, were erected into a united parish in 175& 

Boundaries. — The parish is of an oblong irregular form, mea- 
suring as its extreme length 25 miles, and 3 as the average 
breadth. It is bounded on the east by the Sound of Kilbrannon, 
which separates it from Arran ; on the west, by the parish of KiU 
lean ; on the north, by the parish of Kilcalmonell ; and on the 
south, by Campbelton. 

Topographical Appearances. — In the general aspect of the pa* 
risb, especially when viewed from a distance, the spectator ob- 
serves nothing remarkable. Undulating groups of heath-crowned 
elevations mark the rising ground, whilst the declivities are either 
shaded with patches of straggling coppice wood, or subdued by par- 
tial tillage. A nearer view, however, especially from the south, dis- 
closes a beautiful and imposing landscape, consisting of deep and 
expansive valleys, decked at their entrance near the sea with the 
mansions of the land-owners, whose lawns and enclosures are im- 



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SADDELL AND SKIPNESS^ 437 

proTed with judgment and embellished with taste. Each valley 
has its winding river, copiously supplied by the streams that score 
the mountain sides, and slowly coursing along its green banks and 
pebbled bed towards the sea, as if reluctant to depart from the 
scene ; whilst, in the distance, and on every side, nature rises in 
magnificence and repose as the heights swell into huge and ma- 
jestic proportions ; thus exhibiting at once a rare and varied com- 
bination of much that constitutes the charm of Highland and low- 
land scenery. The highest mountain in the parish is Benintuirk 
(upon the estate of Torrisdale), elevated 2170 feet above the le- 
vel of the sea. From no point of the same altitude in the county 
is the view more grand, extensive, or picturesque. In the fore- 
ground is the Island of Arran, to the south the Frith of Clyde, 
the Craig of Ailsa, and the Irish Channel. From the Point of 
Corsil in Wigtonshire, the eye can range along the intervening 
counties, until arrested by the ^^ lofty Benlomond." Hence the 
transition is easy to Bencruachan, and Benmore in Mull. To the 
north-west is the horizon line of the Atlantic, presenting portions 
of its blue surface through the openings of the different islands 
with which it is indented, from Mull to the Giants' Causeway. 
In this range are embraced portions of seven Scottish and two Irish 
counties, and the circuit is supposed to be little less than 300 
miles. 

Meteorology* — The atmosphere is naturally moist, from being 
impregnated with the floating vapours of the Atlantic, which are 
constantly carried about by the prevailing winds. To these are 
added the humid exhalations which arise from the lochs and 
marshes in the interior. The dry east winds, however, operate as 
a counteracting element in dissipating these vapours, and in re- 
storing the equilibrium of the atmosphere. The climate, though 
changeable, is thus rendered temperate and salubrious, insomuch 
that invalids from a distance have, after a few months sojourn, 
found their health perfectly restored. As a proof of the mildness 
of the climate, many of the most rare and delicate green-house 
shrubs flourish in great profusion in the open air, with no other 
protection than a thin matting during the winter months. 

The prevailing diseases are asthma, influenza, inflammatory sore 
throat, and affections of the chest and lungs. A few formidable 
and fatal cases of cancer have occurred of late years. Fevers are 
almost unknown unless when engendered by infection. This often 
happens from the frequent intercourse of the inhabitants with the 



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430 ARGtLESRtRfi. 

maritime towns upon the opposite coast There is no resident 
medical practitioner in the parish. 

Hydrography. — The parish possesses a considerable extent of 
sea coast, consisting chiefly of low promontories of different forms 
and dimensions ; all jutting towards the south-east The more 
prominent of these are separated by expansive bays flanked at the 
entrance with mural ridges of rock, whilst the 6ne sheet of water 
that intervenes, usually terminates in beaches of brilliant sand. 
The remnant of the coast is composed of numerous indentations, 
forming in miniature those peculiar beauties of creeks, harbours, 
and other inlets of the sea, which refresh and delight the eye up-* 
on a larger scale. The moors abound with lakes whose margin is 
tame and uninteresting. They generally teem with trout. Those 
found in Lochnabreck on the estate of Cour, weigh frpm two to 
four pounds, and are of an exquisite quality. 

The rivers take their rise from lochs or marshes at the distance 
of five or six miles from the sea. They are Skipness, Claonaig, 
Crossaig, Sunadale, Carradale, Torrisdale, and Saddell. Of 
these Carradale is by far the most considerable, affording to the 
angler ample sport, from the par to the fulUgrown salmon. Pe-^ 
rennial springs of pure and delicious water are frequently to be met 
with. Two or three possess chalybeate qualities. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — By far the greater part of Kintyre 
is mica-slate, and in this parish it strikingly predominates. The 
usual dip of the rock is toward the north at an angle of 45% ex- 
cept when disturbed by basaltic trap veins which intersect it* 
Quartz in veins and uodules everywhere abound, which generally 
run parallel to the mica slate, though they occasionally cut it at 
right angles. Several of these dikes contain nodules (apparently 
filled up cavities) of very fine olivine of considerable size. In the 
neighbourhood of these the character of the mica-slate is consi- 
derably altered, partaking of the features of an aggregate rock 
filled with small spheroidal quartzose masses, of a reddi3h colour. 
Of rolled masses the district does not present much variety. 

The most conspicuous deviation from the ordinary geological 
character of the parish is the occurrence of large detached blocks 
of granite, of an extremely hard texture. In a quarry at Carra- 
dale, about two years ago, were found some small but perfect spe« 
cimens of obsidian, a species of volcanic product or lava. In the 
mass it was almost black, but in thin fragments it became semi- 
transparent, and presented the appearance of green bottle glass. 
There are no minerals of the precious order in the parish. 



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SADDBLL AND SKIPNBSS. 439 

SoiVs,— The soil on the upper grounds is light and gravelly. 
Along the banks of the several streams it is alluvial and composed 
of a sort of sandy slime. In the meadows it is generally moss or 
a rich and deep loam incumbent on a bed of clay. The subsoil 
i s usually rock, clay, or gravel, but in the mosses near the sea it 
presents layers of pure white sand. 

Zoology. — The only animal of the deer tribe now found in a 
wild state in this parish is the roe (Cervus capreolns). They 
were formerly nuiperous, as they still are in some parts of the 
country. Agricultural improvements, however, and the conse- 
quent extirpation of natural coppice-wood, have driven them from 
their native haunts, so that only a few stragglers are now to be 
seen among the plantations. Hares (Leptts timidits) are pretty 
numerous. Rabbits have been turned out, but did not succeed. 
The wild cat {Felis catus) may still be met in the wooded glens, 
and among the rocky cairns upon the sea coast But their num- 
bers are fast decreasing, and, in a few years, this animal will pro- 
bably be unknown in this district The badger (Meles vulgaris) 
is found in considerable numbers. The country people have an 
idea that there are two distinct varieties of the badger ; one with 
claws and a nose like a dog, and another with the snout of a hog 
and cloven feet. But, as we have never yet encountered this lat- 
ter prodigy, we can only vouch for the existence of the Meles vuU 
garis. 

Animals of the genus Mustela, or weasel tribe, are numerous, 
and very destructive to game and poultry. Of these we have the 
pine, or yellow-throated martin {Martis vulgariSf) the winter fur 
of which is little inferior to the sable. The polecat or fumart 
{Musiela Putorius) ; the common weasel {Mustela vulgaris) ; and 
the stoat (Mustela Erminea,) which in winter assumes a white 
garb and becomes the ermine, are all numerous. The mole 
{Talpa Europea) had commenced its ravages in the northern 
district of the parish, about twenty-one years ago. It has now, 
however, found its way nearly to its southern extremity. The 
common tradition concerning them is, that, when they have found 
their way to the Mull of Kintyre, they will drive all the Campbells 
out of the country, and take possession of their estates. The 
otter (Lutra vulgaris) is found in considerable numbers along the 
sea coast, and in the moor lakes, where they bring forth their 
young. 

Fishes. — The common seal (Phoca vittdina) is found upon the 
coast, but they are not very numerous. Several varieties of the 



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440 ARGTLE8HIRB. 

order Cetacea or whale tribe frequent the coast during the her- 
ring-fishtng season, but disappear on the approach of winter. Of 
these we tnBy mention the Greenland whale (Bakena MyMicehiMt) 
the grampus {Delphinua Grampui^) the great dolphin (/)• Tursio^) 
from twelve to fifteen feet in length, with a pointed muszle or 
beak; and the common porpoise (D. P/iocmnaj) with a rounded 
muzzle, seldom exceeding six feet in length. In the year 1817, 
a whale was found dead off Portree, and towed to the shore, 
which measured ninety feet in length and fifty^two in circumfe- 
rence. The breadth of the tail was eighteen feet. 

Pishes, — Trout abound in the streams and lakes, and salmon in 
the bays and rivers; and almost every kind of British fish may be 
taken off the coast. Cod, ling, coalfish or stanelock, hake^ 
mackerel, haddock, and whiting are found in shoals upon the 
"banks in every direction. 

Birds, — The birds of prey are, the golden eagle {/tquila Chry* 
saitoSf) the common or white-tailed {A.fulvus;) the peregrine 
falcon {Falco peregrinuSf) the merlin (F. AesaloUj) the kestril (F. 
Tinnuncultis,) the sparrowhawk (F, Nistis^) the kite or fork*tafled 
gled {F, Milvusy) the common buzzard {F. buteo^) the hen-harrier 
(Buteo Ct/aneus^) the harpy or moor buzzard {F. rufus;) the raven 
{Corvus CoraXy) hooded-crow, magpie, &c. 

Of the owl tribe we have two species, the barn owl {Strix 
jlammm^ and the brown owl (S*. Brachyotos^ which is a bird of 
passage. Game birds are, black game, which are numerous ; red 
grouse, which are less abundant since the improvement of the 
moors by burning and draining; partridges are still scarce, 
but rapidly increasing ; golden and green plover, snipe and wood- 
cock, which are abundant in winter. Wild-duck and teal are to be 
found in the moor lakes.^ 

Botany. — There is here a good and varied field for the botanist. 
The Osmunda regalis^ the pride of the British ferns, is scattered 
in frequent patches among the common bracken, more especially 
on the Skipness estate. The Bidens tripartita or bur*marigold, 
which is an uncommon plant, grows abundantly on the mossy 
ground. In the salt marshes, there is the water dropwort ((EnaiMe 
pimpinelloides,) The Sedum a:nglicum grows thickly on the rocks 
fronting the sea. Some of the larger St John's wort (Hypmcum 
Andros(Bmum) is found among the wooded cliffs ; and on the dry 
sand in Carradale bay, above high-water mark, are some plants of 
great beauty and interest. The bright-blue-flowered oyster plant 
{Lithospermummaritimum^) dXiA the Convoholus Soldanellasiretre^ 



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8ADDBLL AND SKIPNES8. ^^^ 

quent on the natural pastures near the sea* The purple loose- 
strife (Lyrimachia thjirsiflora) is common near the ditches and 
streams. The smaller pimpernel (Anagallis tenella) spreads in 
the moist sunny qpots on the hill sides ; and, farther back, in the 
peat-bogs and tarns on the elevated moors, the resort of the wild 
duck and her brood, there is the white water lily in abundance 
(the Nymphcsa alba.) In different parts of the parish, there are 
natural woods of oak, ash, hazel, birch, and alder. On the estate 
of Saddell, there are plantations of remarkably fine old forest trees. 
There are several trees of a similar kind in the glen near Skipness 
Castle. On the estates of Auchnabreck and T6rrisdale^ where 
planting has been extensively carried on, the growth of it has been 
singularly rapid, especially among Scotch fir and larch. Though 
other species progress more slowly, they are generally in a very 
healthy and promising state of vegetation. 

11. — Civil History. 

Eminefit Men. — 1. The ancient history of this parish is involved 
in much obscurity. The first notice taken of it in history is in 1 1 58, 
when Somerled erected his standard as an independent chief, and, 
with a fleet of fifty-three sail, wrested Kintyre and the Western 
Isles firom the crown of Mann., Intoxicated by a series of great 
and decisive victories, he entertained the vain project of subjecting 
all Scotland to his sway. In an encounter, however, with the army 
of Malcolm IV. at Renfrew, he was, along with one of his sons, 
discomfited and slain. His body was, according to the best and 
most authentic traditions, conveyed to Saddell, and there buried 
by Reginald his eldest son. 

In the Chronicle of Melross, to be seen in the College Library 
of Glasgow, the event of his death is recorded thus : ^* Sumerledus 
Regulus Argathelias per duodecem annos contra Regem Scotias 
Malcomum, dominum suom natalem, impic rebellans, cum copio- 
sum de Hibemia et diversis locis exercitum trahens, apud Renfrew 
applicuit: tandem ultione divina cum filio sue ibidem occisus 
MCLXiiii ;*' I. e. " Somerled, Prince of Argyle, wickedly rebel- 
ling for twelve years against Malcolm, King of Scots, his rightful 
lord, bringing with him a numerous army from Ireland and other 
places, arrived at Renfrew, and was there at length, by Divine 
vengeance, killed, together with his son,'' It has been maintain- 
ed, that the High Steward of Scotland, who commanded the king's 
army, bribed one Maurice MacNiel to assassinate our hero, and 
that, by this wicked and cowardly project, he had m'bt with his 
death. ^ 



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442 ARGTLESUIRE. 

2. Reginald succeeded bis fatber under the title of King of the 
Isles, and I^ord of Argyle and Kintyre. He finished and formally 
endowed, as will afterwards appear, the monastery at Saddell, be- 
gun by his father Somerled, and assumed to himself, as perhaps 
he virtually might, the merits and the designation of its founder.* 
This^is established by a charter of confirmation extant in Reg. 
Mag. Sig., 1st January 1507. The charter confirms a deed 
granted to the Bishop of Lismore by Reginald, where he is de« 
signed << Reginaldum filium Sorlett qui se regem insularum domi- 
narum de Ergile et Kintyre dicti monasterii fundatorem.''f The 
historians of Norway (Torfeus and Torfaei Orcades, p. 146,) 
describe him as a warrior of distinguished note. In conformity 
with a common practice among the Scandinavian Sea Kings, he 
is said to have lived for three years without entering under the 
roof of any house where a fire had been kindled, and thus accus- 
tomed himself to every species of privation and hardship. The 
same historian informs us, that, at the request of William the 
Lion, he undertook to recover Caithness out of the hands of Ha- 
rold, Earl of Orkney, and had the good fortune to succeed. Con- 
sidering the tribute exigible by the Crown of Norway too extra- 
vagant, and the lord of his allegiance at too great a distance to 
enforce his claims, he shrewdly subjected his dominions to the 
Pope, who generously claimed a mere nominal tribute of twelve 
merks (Foedera, Anglia, Tom. i. p. 234.) The petty kings of 
Ireland always appealed to him in seasons of difficulty, and his 
very name often suppressed their quarrels. He died after a reign 
of thirty years. 

3. Angus Og, I. e. the youug. He obtained this title in contra- 
distinction to his father, Angus Mor, son to Donald the son of 
Reginald, from whom the Macdonalds adopted their surname. 
His brother and immediate predecessor, Alexander, had, unfor- 
tunately for himself, opposed the claims of Robert Bruce, who, 
after defeating the Lord of Lorn at Lochow, made a second de- 
scent upon Argyleshire, and crossing over the isthmus of Tarbert, 
besieged him at Castle Swen, and, after forcing him to surrender, 
carried him away prisoner to Dundonald Castle, where be died. 
Angus had, from the first, taken a decided part in support of the 
interests of Bruce. When that illustrious prince, after the unfor-* 
tunate battle of Methven and Dairy, was forced to retreat, he 
gladly availed himself of the hospitality of his friend; and, crossing 
over from Arran, he landed at a place called Portree (the King's 

• See DouglM's Peerage, p. 358. f See Chartulary of Pttslej, p. 877. 

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8ADDELL AND 8KIPNESS. 443 

port,) accompanied by Sir Nigel Campbell of Lochaw, Sir James 
Douglas, and Sir Robert Boyd. The party were at 6rst enter^ 
tained at Saddell Castle, and afterwards at Dunaverty, until An- 
gus found means to convey them in safety to bis island of Rathlin 
upon the coast of Ireland. He then set about organizing a body 
of troops, who took a decided part in all the future proceedings of 
the Bruce. In the successful attacks upon Carrick, where ^* the 
Bruce won his fathers' hall,'' Angus and his followers were fore- 
most in the combat. At length, when the whole English army of 
Edward XL assembled at Berwick, composed, according to Bucha^ 
nan, of 200,000 men, — according to Robertson, of half that num- 
ber, — Bruce anxiously awaited the arrival of Angus, whom some 
of the leaders now suspected of treachery. Immediately, however, 
on his arrival at Torwood near Falkirk, where the army stood en- 
camped, Bruce addressed him in a loud tone, and, as a proof of 
his confidence, observed, <^ My hope is constant in thee," which 
is still the motto of the lineal representatives of the Lords of the 
Isles. No stronger proof of the sincerity of this declaration could 
have been given, than the appointment of this fine body, along 
with the men of Carrick, as the reserve, of which the King him- 
self took the command. On the 24th of June 1314, the two armies 
met at Bannockburn. The Scots at first suffered so severely from 
the English archers, that victory was for a time extremely doubt- 
ful, when the brave reserve were summoned into action, and speed- 
ily decided the fate o( a day on which depended the liberty and 
independence of Scotland.* The King generously acknowledged 
his deep sense of these important services, by granting lo Angus 
the extensive territories of the Comyns, together with that of their 
allies, the Lords of Lorn. He granted, besides, the lands of Du- 
rour and Glencoe.f Though in justice he considered him en- 
titled to these tokens- of his consideration, yet, in adding to his 
already too extensive territories, he saw he was strengthening the 
hands of a dangerous and powerful rival. Accordingly, he took 
the precaution to build the Castle of Tarbert, the ruins of which 
still stand near the village of that name on the estate of Stonefield. 
The effects of this arrangement, in the hands of Bruce's successors, 
proved a successful engine to ruin the ascendancy of the Lords of 
the Isles.t 

4. Thomas, Abbot of Saddell, who flourished about the year 
1207. Dempster eulogies him both for his austerity and chas- 

♦ See Abercrombie^s History, Vol. ii. p. 440. 

t See Robcrtion*t Index, p. i, No. 61. f See ChamberUln*8 Roll. 



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444 AUOTLE8H1RE. 

tity. He calls him " Vir magna vitae austeritate et ooDtinentia 
Celebris." The same author informs us that he wrote several 
works, preserved in the Library of St Andreirs ; but, as Keith ob- 
serves, there are none to be found at present penned by his hand. 
5. The Rev. James Gardiner. This eminently godly man 
was minister at Saddell from 1655 to 1662. He had, from his 
learning and piety, been appointed chaplain to the devoted Mar* 
quis of Argyle, who suffered upon the scaffold in June 1661, and 
had thus incurred a suspicion which led to his ruin. A^ 
cordingly, as appears from the register of the Privy Council, he 
was summoned to appear before that tribunal in Edinburgh, along 
with Mr Alexander Gordon, minister at Inverary, and Mr John 
Cameron, minister at Kilfinan, upon the 9th day of December 
1662, to be interrogated. His appearance, pursuant to citationy 
is recorded as having taken place, and upon refusing to satisfy the 
Council, he and Mr John Livingston, minister at Ancrum, had 
sentence of perpetual banishment pronounced against them. His 
^^ Act," as is the title of it in the register, runs thus, ^' I, James 
Gardiner, late minister of Kintyre, oblige me to remove myself 
out of the King's dominions, within the space of a month from 
the date hereof, and not to be seen within the same, under pain 
of death, and that in the meantime, I shall not repair to any place 
within the bounds of the diocese of Glasgow, Galloway, or Argyle. 
Subscribed at Edinburgh, the 11th of December 1662, James 
Gardiner."* 

\ The following account is given of him by Mr Boes, minister of 
Campbelton, in a letter to Wodrow the historian, and lately dis- 
covered by Dr Burns of Paisley. ^^ 1705, Mr James Gardner, 
a steadfast and sincere Christian, was minister in the parish of 
Saddell, banished to Holland at the Restoration, and returning 
privately to Scotland, died in Glasgow. He was very useful to 
exercised Christians, both in preaching and conference." 

6. Campbell, usually called ^< the Captain of Skipness." Ac- 
cording to the spirit of the times, he studied the art of war under 
that powerful monarch Gustavus Adolphus, the terror of Austria, 
and the bulwark of Protestantism in Europe. Devotedly attach- 
ed to the Presbyterian cause, he took a prominent and decided 
part in the sanguinary struggle between Charles L and the Cove- 
nanters. His military genius, which shone in many memorable 
engagements, his firmness and decision in the hour of difficulty 

• Sec Wodrow, Vol. i. pag« 818, Burni&* edition. 



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SADDBLL AND SKIPNESS. 445 

and daDger» together with his high sense of honour, soon raised 
him to the distinction of a formidable leader. He particularly 
distinguished himself in arresting the progress of the forces of 
Montrose, and was actively engaged at Philtphaugb, where they 
were cut to pieces. Under the command of Greneral Lesslie, he 
pursued a body of the Macdonalds, in their retreat to Ireland, as 
far as the Castle of Dunaverty, where he fell on the first day of 
the siege. This so enraged the besiegers, that they soon after- 
wards compelled the Macdonalds to surrender unconditionally 
when they were to a man put to the sword. The mother of the 
captain of Skipness, who was daughter to the chief of the Mac* 
farlanes, hourly expecting her son's arrival, and observing a per- 
son approadi at a quick pace, supposed he might be him, and went 
out to meet him. He proved, however, to be the messenger en- 
trusted with the tidings of her son'sdeath. Upon hearing the mourn- 
ful intelligence announced, she fell into a swoon, from which she 
never recovered. His body was conveyed to Lochend, (now Caro|>- 
belton,) and interred in the old Gaelic church. The stone that 
covers his grave is still to be seen. The inscription which of late 
years is quite obliterated, stood thus : 

** A Captain muoh renowned, 

Whose cause of fight was still Christ's right, 

For which his soul is crowned. 

So breifly then to know the man. 

This stone tells all the storie ; 

On earth his race he ran with grace, 

In HeaYen he reigns in glory.** 

7. Mr Donald Macnicol, an eminent scholar and antiquarian, 
was minister in this parish in 1753, whence he was translated to 
the Island of Lismore. He brought himself into notice by the 
publication of an able and interesting review of Dr Johnson's 
^* Tour to the Hebrides,'' which still retains its popular character. 
When the great moralist saw the work, he is said to have growled 
hideously. But upon perusing it, he observed to a friend " Really 
these Highland tavages write the English language wonderfully 
well 1" 

AntiquUiei — Monastery at SaddeJL — This celebrated monastic 
institution, which was originally organized by Somerled, was car- 
ried on and completed by Reginald, his son and successor. The 
site of the monastery itself is one of surpassing interest. It is a 
sweet and shaded spot, close by a well-wooded stream, near the 
base of one of the mountains that bound a broad and beautiful 
valley. The ruins are embosomed amid the foliage of the elm, 
the ash, and other stately trees which now wave their branches 



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446 ARGYLBSHIRE. 

over the sacred remains. After it had for centuries withstood th« 
violence of the solstitial rains and equinoctial gales,* the hands of 
a modem Goth converted it into a quarry, out of which he took 
materials to build dikes and offices,-*paving some of the tatter 
with the very grave-stones. He did not, however, long survive 
this sacrilegious deed, as he soon afterwards lost his life by a tri- 
fling accident, which the country people still consider a righteous 
retribution, and the estate passed into other hands. 

As to the original building, tradition affirms, that Reginald, af- 
ter his father's death, sent to Rome for a quantity of consecrated 
dust (uir naomhichte na Roimhe), and made the building com- 
mensurate with the extent to which it could be scattered. Be that 
as it may, the fabric was both l&rge and capacious. It was in the 
form of a cross, which lay in an exact position towards the four 
cardinal points. The length from east to west was about 136 feet 
by 24, and of the transept from north to south 78 feet by 24. 
The south end of the transept was extended from the gable to a 
distance of 58 feet, and from this projected another building run- 
ning parallel to the body of the church, which was crossed in its 
turn at the termination westward at right angles by another erec- 
tion ; thus giving the whole the form of a quadrangle or square. 
The body of the church itself, from east to west, measured 60 feet, 
and the height of the side walls 24 feet. 

Order of the Monks. — They were of the Cistertian order, who, 
in 1088, quitted the Abbey of Molesme in France, and took up 
their abode at Citeaux or Cistertium, a remote and desolate loca- 
lity in the diocese of Chalons in Burgundy. They were called 
Monachi AIbi, in contradistinction to the Benedictines, whose ha- 
bit was entirely black, whereas the Cistertians, whilst they wore a 
black coul or scapular, had all their other clothes white, as an 
emblem of their reformation and superior purity. The Chronicle 
of Man, written by the monks of Ruffin, and published by Cam- 
den in his Britannica (Gibson's edition), speaking of Haco's expe- 
dition from Norway in 1260 against Alexander III., thus writes : 
^' During Haco's stay at Gudey (God's island), now Gigha, an 
abbot of a monastery of greyfriars waited on him, begging protec- 
tion for their dwelling and holy church, and this the king granted 
in writing. Friar Simon, one of the priests in Haco's train, had 
lain sick for some time, and died at Gudey. His body was after- 
wards carried up to Kintyre, where the greyfriars buried him in 
their church (undoubtedly Saddell). They spread a fringed pall 
over his grave, and called him a saint.'' The power of the order 



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SADDBLL AND SKIPNESS. 447 

was so increased by St Bernard, that they governed the greatest 
part of Europe for a whole age, both in things spiritual and tem* 
poral ; and one may easily judge of their influence in this country 
when, at one period, they had no less than fourteen convents in 
Scotland. 

Endowments — The monastery of Saddell was richly endowed by 
Reginald and his successors. He granted to it the lands of Glen 
Saddell, the twelve merk lands of Ballibean, in the lordship of Kin- 
tyre — the lands of Cheskin, in Arran, and unuro denarium ex qua* 
libet dome.* Donald, his son, conflrmed the whole of his father's 
grants, and added some of his own, as did also Angus. Pennant 
in his travels informs us that the lands of Kilmorie, Tortin, and 
Benans in Arran were annexed to it, and also Inchmarnock, in the 
county of Bute. Sir Duncan Campbell of Lochow, founder of the 
collegiate church or provostry of Kilmun, who was created Lord 
Campbell in 1445, was a great benefactor to it. He mortified for 
its use the lands of Blarintiobairt, in the shire of Argyle, ^^ pro 
salute animae suae.'' 

Churchyard. — Here are some of the most interesting tombstones 
in the kingdom, with an endless variety of figures and inscriptions. 
One of the most conspicuous is that of the Lord of the Isles him- 
self in the character of a warrior, sculptured upon the stone as 
large as life, with the " claidheamh da laimh" (the two handed-sword) 
lying sheathed by his side. Others of the same kind have a monk 
in miniature beside them, to recommend them, it is thought, to the 
keeper of the keys. The Abbot's tombstone, which lies somewhere 
among the ruins, has been described as a remarkably fine one. 
He is drawn at full length, — ^his head shaven, and his pontifical 
robs reaching to his heels. His hands are closely clasped, raised 
very high, and resting on his breast, as if in the attitude of prayer. 
On the lower part of his breast is the seal of the monastery, re- 
sembling not a little the arms of Canterbury ; the sand-glass and 
the trumpet to represent the lapse of time and the approach of 
judgment. On the lower part is a label filled with Saxon or 
Runic characters, but so effaced, as to be almost illegible. 

Here several persons of distinction from all parts of the country, 
including some of the collateral branches of the Macdonald fa- 
mily, had their sepultures. A grave-stone, close by that of the 
chieftain himself, contains the figure of a warrior, said to repre- 

* Chartulary of Paisley, page d77-»DougW Peerage. 



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44S ARGYLESHIRE. 

sent one Mackay, to whom Robert Bruce made a grant of the 
lands of Ugadale, still retained by his descendants as the reward 
of his hospitality. Here is also the grave of Archibald Campbell 
of Carradale, who was killed at the battle of Inverlochy^ whilst en- 
gaged with the forces of Montrose ; and also the graves of many 
other eminent men, whose fame is passed into oblivion ^^carent quia 
vatesacro." The late learned and pious Dr Smith of Campbelton, 
in a letter to General Button, the antiquarian, written in 1789, 
in giving an account of his visit to this sacred spot, speaks 
with exquisite beauty and touching tenderness of << the melan- 
choly soothing pleasure with which the mind is entertained in 
viewing these monuments of our forefathers* piety." " We," he 
adds, " see, hear, and converse with them, — nay, we feel our 
hearts glow with their devotion, and before we are aware, bear 
a part in. their prayers, psalms, and anthems. Were I to judge 
from my own feelings when I view these sacred scenes, I could so- 
lemnly declare>hat there is such a thing as local sanctity !'* King 
James IV. annexed this monastery to the Bishopric of Argyle in 

1507.* 

Castlegf Sfc. — The castle at Skipness is a venerable and majes- 
tic pile, evidently of great antiquity. It is of a square form, with a 
court within. The outer wall is 86 feet in height, 7 feet thick, and 
450 feet in all. There are two projecting towers, one at the south- 
east end, and the other, called Tur in t*sagairt {the prie$es tower,) 
at the north-east end, which was evidently the keep of the castle. 
The western side is flanked by a small tower about the centre. 
The wall at the entrance projects slightly on the south side, so as 
to form, by means of loop-holes at its junction with that side, a slight 
flanking defence to the east and west. There has been also a 
portcullis to protect the gate. 

The castle at Saddell is a square tower of considerable dimen- 
sions, which is said at one time to have been entirely surrounded 
by water. This, joined to the circumstance of its being flanked 
with a strong range of battlements all round the top, must have 
rendered it an impregnable fortress. From these battlements one 
of the Macdonalds, who had a gun which he facetiously called 
the cuckoo, let her voice be heard to the destruction of any sus- 
picious person who unwarily approached his dwelling. 

Upon several of the headlands near the sea coast, there are ruins 
of small forts, which probably served as watch-towers or stations 
for telegraphic signals. 

* See Spottiswood'j Religious Houses. 



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SADDBLL AND SKIPNESS. 449 

There is one at Aird of Carradale, which must have been of 
some importance. It is built on a high rock fronting the sea, ' 
whence it is inaccessible, and was defended on the land side by a 
broad and deep ditch. It is 240 feet long, by 72 broad. Nothing 
now remains but a portion of the outer wall. About a mile south- 
west from this, on a small peninsula, stand the ruins of a vitrified 
fort, of an ovoidal form, and still in a state of tolerable preserva- 
tion. The peninsula itself is indented with abrupt rocks on all 
sides, and the wall of the fort is adapted to the elliptical form of 
the eminence. Its circumference is about 150 yards, and its 
greater and less diameter 60 and 25 yards respectively. 

There are a few cairns or tumuli in the parish, similar in cha- 
racter to those usually met with in the Highlands. One, at the 
burying- ground at a place called Brackley, is the largest in the 
district. There is at Glenristle, near Claonaig church, a Druidi- 
cal circle, very entire, and of the usual formation. 

Land'Otoners, — There are six land-owners in the parish, viz. 
Captain Walter Campbell of Skipness ; Mr Lauchlan Macniel 
Campbell of Kintarbert ; Mr Richard Campbell of Achnabreck ; 
Mr John Campbell of Stonefield ; Mr Alexander MacAlister of 
Torrisdale ; Mr Keith MacAlister of Glenbarr. Four of these 
are resident, the other two have their seats in the adjoining pa- 
rishes. 

Parochial Registers, — There are two separate parochial registers 
kept in the parish, one for the Skipness and the other for the Sad- 
dell district, generally under the management of two of the school- 
masters. Of late years they have been kept with great accuracy, 
but formerly they were much neglected, and a portion of them 
either lost or destroyed. The date of the Skipness register com- 
mences in the year 1783, and that of Saddell in 1746. 

III. —Population. 

The population in 1755 was 1360 
1792, 14dl 
1801, 1658 
1811, 1985 
1821, 2191 
1831, 2152 
1841, 1798 
The aYerage number of births that have been registered within the last 
seven years, is - - ^Sj 

Do- do. marriages, - • I'iJ 

The number of families in the parish is - 358 

Of these not more than one-fifth are engaged in purely agri- 

ARGYLE. F f 



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450 ARGYLBSHIRB. 

cultural pursuits ; 5*2 are supported by handicraft, and the rem- 
nant live in the double capacity of crofters and fishermen. 

The decrease in the anoonnt of the population of late may be 
accounted for in various ways, such as emigration to America and 
other places; the erection of subdivided farms into one; and in 
some instances it is owing to a system adopted by a few of the 
land-owners, of farming or grazing portions of their own estate. 

Language, — Gaelic is the language universally spoken by the 
natives. Most of them, especially the young, can converse in 
English with tolerable accuracy. 

Character and Habits of the People. — In both the character and 
habits of the people^ there has been a very decided improvement. 
Smuggling, which at one time was the chief employment of the 
crofters and fishermen in winter, is now almost entirely suppressed 
and abandoned. The fierce and daring encounters of the Skipness 
men with the officers of the excise, were long proverbial. It was 
no uncommon exploit with them to overpower a whole crew of 
cuttersmen, then to carry off their oars and tackle, and coolly set 
them adrift in their own boats. 

The stated weekly services of the sanctuary, by the aid of a 
missionary instead of every alternate Sabbath, as formerly ; the 
appointment of an efficient body of elders ; the establishment of 
the Assembly's schools, with their admirable teachers, joined to 
the influence of the resident gentry, have all combined to improve 
the character and morals, not less than to promote the happiness 
and comfort of all classes of the people. 

IV. — Industry. 

Husbandry. — As no general survey or measurement of the pa- 
rish has, for many years, taken place, and as many acres of waste 
land have lately been reclaimed, it is impossible to state with ac- 
curacy the relative quantity of arable and pasture land. The 
mode of tillage, from the mixed employment of the majority of 
the people, has, until lately, been but partial and defective. Within 
the last few years, several of the land-owners have introduced the 
most approved system of manuring, stone and tile^d raining, toge* 
ther with the proper rotation of crops, and the results have been 
such as to convince their tenants of the great capabilities of the 
soil, when under judicious management. 

Fishery, — The herring-fishing has long been the occupation of 
the families]]who reside upon the coast. A great improvement has 
of late years taken place, both in the size of the vessels, and the 



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SADDELL AND 6JKIPNESS. 45l 

quality of the materials employed in it. The train of nets is usual- 
ly made up of six barrels 240 fathoms in length. On board the 
larger class of vessels they have been multiplied in a few instan- 
ces fourfold. 

The number of boats connected with this parish is 65, with a 
crew of three men for each. The quantity of fish caught this 
season has been unusually large, but from the prices being atone 
time so low as Is. 3d. per hundred of 120, the clear profits do not 
exceed the average of former years. 

The salmon-fishing, both at Carradale and Skipness, has been 
successfully followed. In the very few instances of white-fishing, 
cod and ling have been caught in large quantities. Lobsters are 
also numerous, and of the finest quality. 

Rent of Land, — The general extent of the farms in the parish 
is from 250 to 1500 acres. The rent is determined more by the 
soums* the hill pasture will keep, than by the value of the arable 
land, the average rent of which may be taken at 178. 6d. per acre. 
From the variable quality of the hill pasture, it is extremely diffi- 
cult to estimate its value. Whilst some of it in the glens is luxu- 
riant and of great value, other portions are not worth more than 
2& 6d. per acre. 

The original valuation of this parish was L.212, 10s. 8d. Scots, 
but, owing to the quantity of land under the immediate manage- 
ment of the land-owners themselves, the amount of the present 
rental cannot be ascertained. 

The price of meal varies from 13s. to 18s. per boll of 140 lbs. ; 
potatoes, per Kintyre boll of 532 lbs., from 6s. to 16s. ; coals are 
from 12s. to 14s. per ton, of which there is no great consumption, 
the principal fuel being peat or turf. 

Wages. — The wages of a ploughman is from L.14 to L.17 with 
board and lodging; shepherds, from L.12 to L.14, with house, 
garden, and grass for one or two cows ; servant-maids, from L.5 
to L.10. The wages of able-bodied labourers is from Is. 2d. to 
Is. 6d. per day ; of artisans, from Is. 6d. to 3s. per day ; women 
are hired at from 8d. to Is., and children from 6d. to 8d. per day. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Ecclesiaitical State — There are two parish churches, thirteen 
miles apart. That at Carradale is in a state of good repair; that 
at Clonaig requires immediate inspection. The manse is large 

* A souin is the keep of a milk cow, or two heifers, or three stirks, or ten sheep. 



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452 ARQYLESHIRE. 

and commodious. The ^lebe is twenty acres in exteot, and may 
be valued at from L.12 to L.15 a-year. 

The teinds are exhausted, and amount to 49 bolls of bear, 
15 bolls of meal, and L.17 Sterling in money. The Exchequer 
pays L.57, 13s. dd. to make up a minimum stipend. 

Education. — There are two parochial schools, with a salary of 
L.25, Ids. 4d. each, and two Assembly's schools with a salary of 
L.25 each. The Assembly's schools are quite a model of edu- 
cational economy, and have given a tone to all the surrounding 
seminaries. 

Poo7* and Parochial Funds* — The poor are supported partly by 
the collections at the church door, and partly by the voluntary 
contributions of the heritors. The average allowance for each 
pauper is L.I, 5s. annually. The voluntary sums raised last year 
amounted to L.40 Sterling, and the collections at the church door 
to L.46, 6s. Ofd., making in all L.86, 6s. 0|d. There is no le- 
gal assessment. 

The number of paupers on the permanent roll is 58 ; those re- 
ceiving temporary aid amount to 1 1. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
It is a fact worthy of notice, that neither public nor parochial 
school existed in this parish before the year 1821. The only 
instruction given was by very young men, who were but imper- 
fectly acquainted with the elementary branches* of education. 
This, coupled with the want of the stated ordinances of religioa 
on every alternate Sabbath, or during one-half of the year, left 
young and old in a state of great destitution, both religious and 
educational. The parochial economy, with regard to the young, 
is now in a very promising and satisfactory state ; but, in regard 
to the adults, no permanent advantage can be given them, until 
the parish is disunited. Much good has been done by means of 
talented and laborious missionaries ; but this can only be regarded 
as a mere temporary arrangement. 

Nothing can be more plain than that, where there are two pa- 
rishes, two churches, two congregations, a duplicate of session, 
beadles, and precentors, there should also be two ministers. L 
each of the inferior and less difficult departments require the ser- 
vices of two men, so must, afortiorij the more difficult and im- 
portant ; and hence the obvious inference, that, where this neces- 
sary supply is wanted, the work can be overtaken but in part. 
- Should the contemplated act now in the hands of Her Majesty's 



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CAMPBELTON. 453 

Government make no provision for the disunion of unwieldy pa- 
rishes like this by an endowment, the evil will be prolonged, the 
advantage of it enjoyed alone where the teinds are unexhausted, 
and its beneBls withheld from those destitute districts where they 
are most required. If, on the contrary» it embrace and make 
provision for parishes like this, where the population is scattered 
over a surface of wider extent than some of the lowland counties, 
then would the people of the Highlands hail the boon with rapture, 
as calculated to give them permanently those high and holy pri- 
vileges so long recognized as the birthright of the people of Scot- 
land, and the vital source of that ^< righteousness which exalteth 
a nation !'' 

November 1843. 



PARISH OF CAMPBELTON. 

PRESBYTERY OF KINTYRE, SYNOD OF ARGYLB. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name, — Thb ancient name of this parish, which it still retains 
in the language of the count ry, is Ceceannloch chilie Chiarariy the 
head of the loch of Kilkerran. It consists of the ancient pa-> 
rishes of Kilkerran, Kilmichaely Kilkerran and Kilchousland. Soon 
after the Reformation, they were united, and called the parish of 
Lochhead, that being the name of a burgh of barony in the parish 
of Kilkerran. The oldest record extant of the presbytery of Kin- 
tyre commences on the 16th August 1655, and from that date to 
the 6th March 1660, the united parish is there called the parish 
of Lochhead. There is no entry in the record for twenty-seven 
years thereafter^ but from the justiciary books of Argyleshire and 
the isles, it appears that a Circuit Court of Justiciary was held at 
Campbelton in August 1680. This is the earliest period the mo- 
dern name has been found in any writing ; and the first time there- 
after that the presbytery of Kintyre met, it was at Campbelton, 
on the 9th November 1687, and the change in the name of the 
burgh and parish from Lochhead to Campbelton is said to have 
been an act on the part of the people of these days, to mark their 



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454 ARGTLBSaiRE. 

respect and affection for the noble family of Argyle. A Ro>a1 
Charter was granted by King William III., dated 19tU April 
1700, raising the old burgh of barony of Lochhead to the dig* 
nity and privileges of a royal burgh. 

Extent— ^The parish comprehends a large extent of the penin- 
sula of Kintyre. According to a map published by a late land- 
surveyor to the Duke of Argyle, the extreme length of the parish 
from north to south is twelve and a-half miles ; its greatest breadth 
at the north is about six miles ; the whole being eighty-seven and 
a-half square miles. It is bounded on the north, by the parishes 
of Killean and Saddell ; on the south, by the parish of Southend; 
on the east, by the sound of Kilbrandon ; and on the west, by the 
Atlantic Ocean. 

There are no ranges of mountains in this parish ; but it may be 
worthy of remark, in the way of illustration, that there are several 
words in the Gaelic language which express Tarious degrees of 
elevation on the earth's surface. Thus, Cnoc signifies a small 
surface, eminence, or little hill ; Sliabh^ a hill of considerable ex- 
tent and elevation ; and Beann^ a mountain of the largest magni- 
tude. The district of Kintyre abounds in hills of the first of 
these orders ; of the second there are several also ; but to the lat- 
ter appellation there is only one in the Mull of Kintyre, which 
rises to the height of 2036 feet above the level of the sea. Heights, 
however, of considerable elevation, from 800 to 1000 feet, over- 
hang the south and north sides of the bay or loch of Campbel- 
ton. Both ends of the parish to north and south are hilly. The 
low ground consists chiefly of a large plain, four miles in- length, 
by three in breadth, lying between the town of Campbelton and 
bay of Machirhanish, called the Laggan of Kintyre, which has 
some appearance of being alluvial. From the small height, (forty 
feet above the level of the sea,) and the appearance of the soil, it 
is not improbable that the two seas united here at a former very 
remote period. The hill of Beugaillin lies about a mile from the 
town, and is the highest land near it. From the top of this hill 
an admirable view can be obtained of the neighbouring country, 
embracing Islay, Jura, Gigha, to the north-west ; Ireland, with the 
island of Rathlin, to the south-west; with Arran and Bute, Cowal 
and the Frith of Clyde, to the north-east; the lowlands, as far as 
Lochryan, to the south ; with the picturesque rock of Ailsa in the 
foreground. 

Caves, — In Island Devar, at the mouth of the loch, the sea has 



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CAMPBKLTON. 455 

gradually worn its way into many places, and has formed a great 
number of caves, many of which are highly interesting. Commu- 
nications have been formed between some of them, so that the ex- 
plorer comes out at a different place from whence he entered. 
There is a remarkable cave about four miles from Campbelton, by 
Kilkerran and Devar, situated on the shore of Achanatonn, (ihe 
JUld of the waves.) Here, where the waters keep an everlasting 
murmur to the crags and precipices that overhang them, is a wild 
and dreary cavern, hollowed from the rock. 

The coast may be reckoned at twenty miles in extent. The 
shore, towards the north, is chiefly rocky ; on the west, almost 
entirely sandy ; and the south-east it presents a bold and rocky 
appearance. The beach, on both sides of the Bay of Campbelton, 
is sand' intermixed in many places with pebbles, chiefly formed of 
quartz. 

Bags. — The Bay of Campbelton is land-locked, beautifully si* 
tuated, and sheltered on the north and south by lofty hills, and 
on the south-east by the Island of Devar, which is joined to the 
south side by a bar of sand nearly half a mile long, and visible at 
low water, which has the effect of intercepting the violence of the 
waves, and thereby rendering the anchorage peculiarly safe. 
The entrance to the bay is from the north, by a deep and nar- 
row channel. The bay is nearly two miles in length, by one in 
breadth, with a depth of from three to fifteen fathoms water. 
There is a small bay at Ardnacross, distant six miles north-east 
from Campbelton, where vessels may occasionally anchor. The 
only other bay is that of Machirhanish, lying about four miles 
north-west of Campbelton, on the Atlantic Ocean. There are 
few bays in the united kingdom that can compare with this, ex- 
tending, as it does, in a beautiful curve for nearly six miles, while 
the beach is composed of a fine white sand, of great breadth, and 
so firm, that it afibrds a most delightful ride. Each extremity of 
the bay is composed of a huge headland, which projects its dark 
and sable rocks into the sea, over which the waves dash conti- 
nually, even in the calmest weather ; but, when a westerly wind 
prevails, the Atlantic Ocean then rolls in its mighty billows to 
the shore, breaking upon the beach with a loud and stunning noise, 
which is said occasionally to be heard upon the Ayrshire coast, 
a distance of thirty miles. The islands of Islay, Jura, and Gigha 
are distinctly visible from this, and add to the beauty and gran- 



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456 ARGYLESHIftE. 

deur of the scene. These, together with a bouDdless expanse of 
the mighty ocean, form the main features of the landscape. 

Meteorology. — The medium height of the thermometer, taken 
from daily observation, amounts, on an average, to ASP ; and also 
the pressure of the atmosphere, as ascertained by daily observa* 
tions with the barometer, is 2^.54 inches. The medium fall of 
rain, for the last twenty years, has been about four inches every 
month. 

The climate is mild ; but we have frequent rains. Snow lies 
rarely above two or three days at a time upon the sea-coast, nor 
does frost make any long continuance. 

Hydrography, — The Frith of Clyde bounds this parish to the 
extent of twelve miles from north-east to south>east. The stream 
of flood comes from the north-west ; the ebb-tide runs with strong 
easterly winds nine hours to the westward ; but, in moderate wea* 
ther, takes its regular course of six hours. In blowy wet weather, 
with streams running into the sea, it assumes a reddish colour ; 
depth from 16 fathoms to 24 in channel course; the ground sofl 
blue clay. 

Springs. — There is a delightful spring of water from Crossbill, 
situated half a mile above the town of Campbelton, flowing from 
limestone, and by which the inhabitants of Campbelton are al- 
most wholly supplied with water, which is conveyed thence in pipes. 

Lakes. — There are three small lakes, situated two, three, and 
four miles to the north of Campbelton, and one in the hollow of 
the high hill of Bengaillin to tlTe south. 

Rivers. — There are two considerable streams, one flowing into 
the sea at the Bay of Ardnacross, and the other into the Atlantic 
at the Bay of Machirhanish. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The principal rocks are, mica- slate, 
quartz, ironstone, porphyry, sandstone, limestone, greywacke, and 
the trap rock. The dip of the strata may be stated south and 
south-east ; the general direction of the principal formation north- 
east and south-west. Great part of the Sound of Kilbrandon 
seems to be caused by the rising of the trap rock, in almost every 
form and constitution through a secondary formation. Within 
two miles of the harbour of Campbelton, the trap rock forms, 
about a mile and a quarter from the shore, a dangerous marine 
reef, about a mile in length, called Smerby rocks, in a north-ea^it 
and south-west direction, and accidents sometimes, although rarely, 
occur to vessels by striking upon them. There is a fine quarry of 



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CAMPBELTON- 457 

porphyry on the estate of Kilkivan, which is much us^d in the 
erection of buildings in Campbelton and the neighbourhood. 

The Island of Devar produces some beautiful varieties of green 
as well as of brown porphyry, easily wrought, and to be obtained 
of any size, and extremely ornamental when polished, but as yet 
neglected. Far superior in beauty and variety to any in the dis- 
trict, this rock produces not less than ten or twelve different kinds. 
The old red sandstone extends to the estate of Killellan. The 
catalogue of simple minerals is extremely brief. Quartz being 
universally diffused is to be found in veins and imbedded masses 
in the mica-slate formation. It is sometimes found in the druses 
of the porphyry, crystallized, and inclining to amethyst. Calc 
spar is also found in the limestone districts and in the amygdaloidal 
and basalt rocks in the south-east district of the parish. The 
only mineral, however, which has been wrought here is coal, and 
this has been done to a considerable extent. The works are situ- 
ated within three miles of Campbelton, to which a canal has been 
cut for the purpose of carrying the coal. The coal is of an infe- 
rior quality, and, on this account, the distillers import a large por- 
tion of that used by them from the low country. It is supposed 
that thirty tons a day are consumed of this coal in the town of 
Campbelton. The mine was wrought, since its commencement, 
by a Company ; but within the last year has been let at a rent to a 
single tacksman. 

Fishing. — All the white fish formerly taken on the coast were, un- 
til these few years, caught by what are called hand-lines, that is 
single lines lowered into the sea by the hand and pulled into the boat 
when the fish is hooked ; and, were it not for the prolific quality of 
the fishing ground, this never could have remunerated the hardy 
fisherman. But a very superior method has lately been adopted ; 
two families from Morayshire, having lately come to reside in 
Campbelton, introduced the long-line which has proved so very 
successful. This is a line floated by buoys on the surface of the 
water, and from it are suspended from ten to fifteen hundred lines, 
with a baited hook on each, and of such length as to reach 
that certain depth where the fish are known to congregate. The 
fishermen do not require to abide by this line as they did by the 
hand one. Being supplied with two sets, whenever one which has 
been in the water eight or ten hours is drawn they shoot the 
other, and immediately proceed to land the fish This method 
has been adopted by almost all the fishermen of Campbelton and 



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4j8 ARGYLESillUE. 

the fertile banks between the Islands of Devar and Sandahave 
amply rewarded the labours of these enterprizing men. More 
than 500 families derive their support from the produce of this 
fishing. 

PlantationSn-^ThQ mansion-house of Limecraigs is embosomed 
in trees, some of which are upwards of 150 years of age. They con- 
sist of ash and plane-trees. Plantations have also been formed 
within the last twenty years on the estate of Knockrtoch, the pro- 
perty of John L. Stewart, Esq. of Glenbuckie ; on the estate of 
Drummore, the property of D. L. Galbreath, Esq. ; on Oatfield, 
the property of Colin M'Eachran, Esq. ; on Lossit, the property 
of George M^Neal, Esq. of Ugadale ; on Killdalloig, the property 
of John Eyton Campbell, Esq. ; and on Askomil, the property of 
Miss Campbell, heiress of the late Captain Peter Campbell, H. E. 
I. C. S. ; all of which thrive well, and consist of larch, Scotch fir, 
elm, ash, plane tree, spruce fir, mountain-ash, and a variety of 
willows. 

II.— rClVIL HiSTORT. 

The late Dr Smith has given, in the former Statistical Account, 
so full and interesting an account of the Dalrhudinian monarchs, 
who reigned in this country, that we shall do nothing more than 
advert to the subject. The three sons of Ere, called Lome, An- 
gus, and Fergus, who came from Ireland to this parish in 50*i, 
were the founders of this kingdom of the Scots. Of all these 
Dalreudinian Kings, Aidan was the most renowned ; he car- 
ried his victorious arms from Ireland, where he fought many 
battles, to the Isle of Man. He was interred, according to For- 
dun, in Kilkerran in the year 605. After the union of the Scots 
and Picts, when Kenneth had removed the seat of his government 
from the western to the eastern coast of Scotland, this remote and 
deserted corner soon became a prey to foreign invaders, the 
Danes and Norwegians. The visitations of this restless and mer- 
ciless people were looked upon with horror. 

Somerled, a powerful chief in Kintyre, formed a matrimonial 
alliance with King Harold, by marrying his grand-daughter. 
His son, Reginald, was even a more powerful prince, for he 
formed alliances with the kings of England. He was the an- 
cestor of the McDonalds, who, as Lords of the Isles, reigned for 
centuries. Angus McDonald, Lord of the Isles, was the friend 
and protector of the gallant Bruce in his adversity. His grand* 
son, John, at first espoused the cause of Baliol, but returned to 



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CAMPBELTON. 459 

)iis allegiance, and was married to a daughter of Robert II. King of 
Scotland. Of this marriage there were four sons ; Donald, Lord of 
the Isles, John of Antrim, Alexander and Allan. Donald, in right 
of his wife, succeeded to the earldom of Ross. A century after* 
wards, James IV. held a Parliament in Kintyre, where he eman- 
cipated part of the vassals of the McDonalds, and granted them 
de novo charters, holding off the Crown ; and, in 1536, to curb 
the license, and subdue the haughty spirit of the chieftains and 
their vassals, James V. found it necessary to make a voyage to 
the Isles. During this expedition, the King repaired the fortalice 
of Kilkerran, and left in it a garrison to overawe McDonald of 
Kintyre ; but the bold chieftain and his followers were not to be 
thus intimidated. Before the King had got clear of the harbour, 
they added insult to rebellion, took possession of the fortalice, 
and hung the governor from the walls as a signal of their conquest. 

The policy of a weak government was then adopted, — that of 
commissioning one tribe to subdue and chastise the other. With 
this view, the lordship of Kintyre, then in the possession of Sir 
James McDonald, was granted to the family of Argyle. Before 
we conclude this subject, we may observe that the place in which 
the castle of the McDonalds stood is now occupied as a church, 
in which the ministers of Campbelton enjoy the satisfaction of 
preaching that gospel which speaks peace on earth, and good will 
to the sons of men, on the same spot where the Lords of the Isles 
issued their stern and arbitrary mandates ; and it was from this 
castle that the unfortunate Earl of Argyle issued his declaration 
of hostilities, in 1685, against James IL 

From the close connection subsisting between this country and 
Ireland, it is probable that the light of Christianity shone in the 
fifth century on these lands, long before. St Ciran in 536 became 
the Apostle of Kintyre. He took up his bumble residence in a 
cave, situated four miles from Campbelton, which still retains his 
name. In the centre of the cave, is a small circular basin, which 
is always full of fine water, supplied by the continual dropping 
from the roof of the cave. There is also a rudely sculptured 
cross, on a stone, upon which the saint is said to have sat and 
prayed. This St Kiaran was highly esteemed by his contempo- 
rary, St Columba, who wrote a sacred ode upon his death, in 
which he celebrates his virtues. This ode is still extant : it com- 
mences, — " Quantum Christe ! Apostolum Mundo Misisti Ho- 
minem. Lucerna hujus insulae," &c. The Church of Kilkerran, 



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460 ARGTLESHIUE. 

10 this parish, was well endowed and supported by the McDo- 
nalds ; but the nuoiber of its officiating ministers, and the amount 
of its revenues, cannot now be ascertained. Keith, in his Cata- 
logue of Bishops, mentions that, in the year 1261, Laurence, 
Bishop of Argyloi annexed this church to the Abbey of Paisley, 
with the consent undoubtedly of McDonald. The reasons of this 
annexation are unknown, as at that period there had been recently 
erected a monastery at Saddell by the McDonalds. 

Argyle having declared himself on the side of the Covenanters, 
in the General Assembly 1638, instantly set about raising an 
army for their defence. The M'Donalds, the followers of Mon- 
trose, having swept Kintyre, giving many of the inhabitants to 
the sword, and their houses to the devouring flames, were in their 
turn checked, turned back, and, at Dunaverty, defeated by Leslie 
and Argyle, So completely were the estates of Argyle wasted 
by the scourge of war, that a sum of money was voted by the 
Estates of Parliament for the support of himself and family, and 
a collection was ordered throughout all the churches of Scotland 
for the relief of his plundered people. 

Kintyre was left a desert ; its few inhabitants became the prey 
of a fearful pestilence which followed in the train of all their other 
calamities. 

In this wilderness, where a smoking chimney was scarcely to 
be seen, the lowlanders, who had joined the standard of Argyle, 
were encouraged, after the war, to settle. Others came from 
the opposite mainland, and bringing with them their servants 
and dependants, a considerable part of this parish, which admitted 
of being cultivated and ploughed like Ayrshire, was speedily occu- 
pied by a thriving colony of pious and industrious inhabitants. 

Rent and Ltmd^owners. — The average real rent of the landward 
part of the parish has been estimated at twenty times the valued 
rent, and the valuation, according to the cess books of the county, 
in Sterling money, is as follows, viz.— 

The Duke of Argyle, L.466 13 4 

M'Neil of Ugadale, . . . 142 19 6 

Galbreath of Machirchanish, 95 4 9 

Campbell of Askomil . . . 61 9 

Kilpatrick of Chescan, SO 10 10 

Stewart of Glenbuckie, for Knockriocb, &c. . 27 6 1 1 

Campbell of Kildalloig, . . 21 11 2 

M'Tag^art of KilkeTan, ; . 21 4 9 

M*Neil of Ardnacross, . 21 3 1 

Harvey of Killellan, • . 18 7 4 

Carry over, L. 906 9 8 

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CAMPBELTON. 461 

Brought over, L. 906 9 a 
M'Eachranof Oatfield, &c. . 11 15 9 

MackayofEigle, . . 10 5 4 



Total Taluation, L. 928 10 9 

which gives of real rentf L. 18,570 15 
The burgh is not valued in the cess books, and the whole parish being 
assessed for the poor*s rates, on a real rental of L.2d,000, the rental 
of the burgh will therefore be about . 4,429 5 



L.23,000 () 

About two-thirds of the parish is under tillage, and the re- 
mainder green pasture and brown heath. Arable land, in the 
immediate neighbourhood of the town, lets at from L.2 to L.4 ; 
and in the other parts of the parish, at from L.1 to L.3 per acre. 
The summer grass of a milk cow in town is about L.d, and, in the 
country, L.2 on average pasture. 

Parochial Registers, — The date of the earliest entry of pa- 
rochial register is 1682; of the cash-book, 1744; and it has 
been regularly kept since that period. 

Antiquities. — In the centre of the main street of Campbelton, 
an ancient cross forms a principal feature of attraction. It is richly 
ornamented with sculptured foliage. It has on one side this in- 
scription, " Haec : est : crux Domini : yvari : M : K : Eachyrna : 
quondam : Rectoris : de Kyregan : et : Domini : Andre : nati : ejus : 
Rectorb de Kil-coman : qui banc crucem fieri faciebat.'' — "This 
is the cross of Mr Ivar M. K. Eachran, once Rector of Kyre- 
gan; and Master Andrew, his son, Rector of Kilcoman, who 
erected this cross." Gordon, in his " Itinerarium Septentrionale,'' 
mentions, that it is a Danish obelisk ; but Mr Pennant, who visit- 
ed this town in 1770, and who was the first to decipher the in- 
scription, gives it as his opinion that it came from lona. This is 
in accordance with the tradition that has prevailed for ages in the 
place. It is certainly a great ornament to the town, and is as old as 
the twelfth century. Of the four parish churches, the ruins of two 
only exist. There are several small chapels, of which a part of the 
walls are still standing, besides some others, probably of a more an- 
cient date, which having mouldered away into heaps of rubbish over- 
grown with moss, may still be traced, whilst tradition points out 
their locality, and has CJirefully preserved their names. During 
the civil wars to which we have alluded, this country having suifered 
so much from the ravages of Alexander MacDonald, called Alister 
MacCoU, who came over with a party of Irish to assist Montrose, 
the Earl of Antrim was expected at the same time, and a battery, 



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462 ARQYLBSHIRE. 

commonly called the Trench, was raised for bis reception on a 
point, at the entrance to the harbour of Campbelton. 

Ministers before and since the Restoration. — In the first 
charge, Mr Dugald Darroch, Mr John Cameron, Mr Robert 
Duncanson, Mr Lachlan Campbell, Mr Charles Stewart, Mr Wil- 
liam MacLeod, Dr John Smith* and Dr Norman MacLeod, Dr 
Allan MacNaughton, Mr Donald Smith, and Mr Duncan Mac- 
Nab. In the second charge, Mr Edward Keith, Mr James Boes, 
Mr John MacAlpine, Dr George Robertson, Dr Allan Mac« 
Naughton, Mr Donald Smith, Mr John MacDougall, and Mr 
Daniel Kelly. Of these ministers, two, Dr Allan MacNaughton 
and Mr Smith, were translated to the first charge, as also Mr 
Duncan Mac Nab, who was assistant and successor in the second. 

By the fifty-ninth act of the sixth Parliament of James IV., in 
1503, "the Tar-bar of Loch Kilkerran" (Lochhead of Kilker- 
ran) was declared to be the seat of justice for the South Isles. 
Previous to the abolition of the heritable jurisdictions, circuit courts 
of Justiciary sat in the burgh of Campbelton ; but the last held 
there, was on the 16th December 1712, when Donald Campbell 
of Clachaig, Sheriff- substitute, and James Cunnison, Provost of 
Campbelton, sat as commissioners of justiciary, and, after a re* 
gular trial, with an assize, condemned to death the last man exe^ 
cuted in this part of the country. 

At the south corner of the now roofless Loland kirk are interred 
the remains of Elizabeth Tollemache, Duchess of Argyle, mother 
of the great Duke John, and Duke Archibald, and Lady Anne, 
who married the Earl of Bute. She lived for more than twenty 
years at Limecraigs, during the early part of the eighteenth cen- 
tury, having Kintyre as her jointure. 

III. — Population. 

The population of whole parish, according to Dr Webster, in 1775, was 4597 

Dr Smith, in 1795, 8706 

the census in 1821, 9016 

1831, 9472 

1841, 9539 

Average yearly births for seven years preceding 1843, . 236 

marriages, ..... 60 

at which males have married, 27 ; and females, 23. 

There are twelve heritors in the parish, of whom nine are resi- 
dent. The Duke of Argyle, who is the principal heritor, and 
other two, are non-resident. 

• A man of varied and distinguished literary Ulent, as well as a most faithful mi- 
nister. 4 



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CAMPBELTON. 463 

The language generally spoken in the town of Campbelton is 
English ; and Gaelic prevails in certain parts of the landward pa- 
rish ; but the Highlanders, with few exceptions, understand and 
can carry on business in the English language. 

IV. — Industry. 

The number of males employed in agriculture as farmers, cot- 
tars, and servants, is 390 ; masters and workmen employed in ma- 
nufactures and making machinery, shopkeepers, and dealers, 520 ; 
proprietors, wholesale merchants, ship-owners, capitalists, bankers, 
and professional men, 100; artisans, colliers, and miners, 710; 
but the number of sailors, fishermen, and jobbers, cannot be cor- 
rectly ascertained. The average wages of servants hired for farm- 
ing work by the year may be stated as follows : married plough- 
men, from L.8 to L.IO of money, with a cow's grass, 52 stones of 
meal, and 6 bolls of potatoes ; unmarried ploughmen, first class, 
L.14; second class, L.10. Women's wages are from L.4 to L.6, 
with victuals. Average wages of agricultural labourers. Is. 3d. ; 
women, during nine months in the year, Is., and in harvest, Is. 
2d. per day, without victuals. The average wages of colliers, 
blacksmiths, joiners, and cartwrights, I4s. per week; masons, 
shoemakers, and maltmen, 12s., and tailors, 9s. The weekly 
wages of the lowest class of labourers and artisans, who have no 
parochial relief, is 6s. Children are employed in such field labour 
as they can be sent to at 6d. per day ; and boys in the town find 
employment in fishing for the Glasgow and home markets, and 
about distilleries. 

Figheries, — The herring fishing, at one time, employed a num* 
ber of vessels and men belonging to this place ; but, owing to the 
withdrawal of the Government bounty to encourage seamen for 
the navy, the greater part of the capital formerly embarked in that 
trade by the merchants of Campbelton, is now invested in distil- 
leries ; but it is now again prosecuted to a considerable exrtent by 
the fishermen themselves, particularly within the last three years, 
owing to their peculiar success in having adopted a superior de- 
scription of boats and nets, (the latter being manufactured by ma- 
chinery,) and their finding a ready sale for the fish while fresh in 
the Glasgow market, which are easily transported thence by steam- 
ers. During the months of June, July, and August last, J 50 
boats, with crews of four men in each, were employed fishing her- 
rings in the Sound of Kilbrandon, which were carried to Camp- 



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4^4 ARGYLESHIRE. 

beltoD ; and, from the offidal report by the '* CommissioDers for 
the British Fisheries,'' it appears that 1897 barrels were *^ gutted 
and packed within twenty-four hours after being caught." Cod 
and ling are also caught in great quantities, — partly sent fresh to 
the Glasgow markets and partly dried for exportation. 

Distilleries. — The great staple commodity of this place, is the 
distillation of malt whisky. The whisky, which is of excellent qua- 
lity, is sold wholesale, principally, by agents in Glasgow, — there is 
a considerable part of it also sent into the Ayrshire markets, and a 
portion of it sometimes finds its way into England, and to foreign 
parts. The number of distilleries is 25, which, from 1st January 
to 31st December 1842, both days inclusive, consumed 303,711 
bushels of barley, chargeable with a duty of 2s. 7d. per bushel, and 
79,508 bushels of bear, chargeable with a duty of 2s. per busheL 
There were manufactured in the same time, 747,502 gallons of 
whisky, of which there was sent to England 12,978^ at a duty 
of 7s« lOd. per gallon; to Ireland, in bond, 3413 gallons; and 
to foreign parts, duty free, 4346 gallons ; and the remainder, be- 
ing 58,760 gallons, was consumed in Scotland at a duty of ds. 
8d. per gallon. The officers of the establishment are as follows, 
viz. one collector, three supervisors, two clerks, and fifty inferior 
officers. 

Navigation. — There are thirty-three registered sloops and 
schooners belonging to this place, employed in the coasting trade, 
besides a number of fishing-boats. There is also a ship of 515 
tons register, the property of Messrs Nathaniel MacNair and 
Company, employed in carrying timber from Canada. In 1840, 
five ships, and in 1842, two ships from foreign parts landed cargoes 
at Campbelton. In 1842, there were 646 vessels with cargoes in- 
wards, and 365 with cargoes outwards, and, besides these, two 
steam-boats belonging to the port ply regularly between Glasgow 
and Campbelton with goods and passengers. The principal im- 
ports are barley, yeast, coals, timber, iron, and general merchan- 
dise, and the exports are whisky, malt, drafi*, black cattle, sheep, 
and horses, potatoes, turnips, beans, butter, cheese, and fish. The 
quantity of barley and bear imported in 1842, was 41,735 quarters, 
5 bushels. 

v.— Parochial Economv. 
The Burgh. — Campbelton is situated in^longitude 5° 36' west, 
and in latitude 50"" 26' north. It encircles the bay or loch of 
Kilkerran in the form of a crescent, and a number of gentlemen's 



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CAMPBELTON. 465 

villas and cottages are ranged along the north and south shore. 
It is also well protected from the weather, as it lies at the bottom 
of a beautiful salt water lake or inlet of the sea, of about two 
miles long by somewhat less than a mile in breadth. From 
the town the loch appears completely land-locked, by reason of 
the conical island of Devar which lies at the entrance of the bay, 
and intercepts both the view and the violence of the waves. The 
municipal government of the burgh is vested in a provost, two bai- 
lies, dean of guild, and twelve councillors. The magistrates, she- 
riff, and justices hold courts regularly within the town-bouse, which 
is a respectable looking building, with a handsome spire, and con- 
tains, besides the town-council chambers, a large hall, in which the 
courts are held. The custom-house department consists of a col- 
lector, comptroller, and two tide-waiters ; and the excise depart- 
ment, of a collector, two clerks, three supervisors, and fifty officers. 
The population of the burgh within the Parliamentary boundary 
in 1841, was 6797, and the constituency 245. This burgh joins 
Ayr, Irvine, Inverary, and Oban, in returning a Member to Par- 
liament There is a weekly market in the town every Thursday, 
for the sale of grain and other farm produce. The gross amount 
of the revenue of the burgh is Lf.988, ds. 7^d. 

Villages. — The village of Dalintober is included in the Parlia- 
mentary boundaries. There is a small village situated five miles 
from Campbelton, at the southern extremity or headland of 
Salt Pans, Machrihanish Bay. It is composed of a few cottages, 
inhabited chiefly by fishermen ; and is famed for the excellent 
quality of cod-fish caught here. The village is called Salt Pans, 
and takes its name from the neighbourhood of a work established 
here at a remote period for the manufactory of sea-salt, but which 
for many years has been disused. 

Turnpike Roads. — There are no turnpike roads in this parish. 
The roads and bridges are kept in excellent order principally by 
Statute labour. 

Ecclesiastical State. — Campbelton contains two parish churches ; 
in one of which Gaelic is preached, and in the other English ; 
the former was built in IBOd, and the latter in 1780. The Gae- 
lic church is capable of accommodating 2000 sitters, and the 
English, or Castle Church, situated where once stood the castle 
of the Lord of the Isles, contains from 1000 to 1200 sittings. 
The manse of the first or Highland charge was built in 1835, at 
an expense of L. 1300 ; but there is no manse at present for the 

ARGYLE. a g 



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466 ARGYLESIUUK- 

minister of the second charge. The stipend of the minister of the 
first charge is L.150; but he has three glebes, the rents of 
which, including houses in the burgh, amount to L.9S yearly. 
The stipend of the minister of the second charge is also the 
minimum, with a glebe let at L. 25. There are within the 
burgh a Rdlief church, seated for between 1000 and 1100; a 
Secessioi! church, seated for about 600 ; an Independent meeting- 
house, seated for about 300 ; and a Roman Catholic chapel, seated 
for about 200. 

Education. — In the burgh and parochial school, English reading 
and grammar, writing and arithmetic, book*keeping, geography, 
mathematics, navigation, Latin, Greek, and French are taaght. 
The salary of the rector is the maximum, payable by the landward 
heritors, and L.20 from the burgh, with a large school-bouse, and 
commodious dwelling-house for boarders, and a garden, rent free ; 
and the fees paid to him, independent of his boarders, may ave* 
rage from L. 120 to L. 180 yearly, according to the number and 
quality of his scholars ; but he is obliged to keep and pay one, 
and if necessary, two or three qualified assistants, approved of by 
the magistrates and town-council. 

Miss Campbell of Gowan Bank, who died in January 1843) in 
her lifetime built two schools at Dalintober, which is a suburb of 
the town, at an expense of L. 1 150, and by her will she left for 
their endowment to the session of the Established Church, and 
certain other trustees, the sum of L. 4600. One of these schools 
is for the education of poor boys, add the other for the education of 
poor girls. This benevolent lady also left to the female school of 
Industry, the sum of L. 600 ; to aid in supporting a parochial mis- 
sionary, the sum of L. 300 ; for Sabbath schools, L. 300 ; to the 
poor of the parish, I-*. 500 ; to the Female Benevolent Society, 
L. 600. In the landward parts of the parish, there are two schools 
supported by the General Assembly, and one by the Society in 
Scotland for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and in the burgh 
there is another school supported by the same Society. Besides 
these, there are six unendowed schools in the parish, five in the 
town and one in the country. In two divisions of the parish, thinly 
peopled, endowed schools are very much wanted. No fees are 
now charged from poor scholars attending the Dalintober schools. 

There are eleven Sabbath schools in the town attended bv 
above 1000 children. 

Societies. — There are a Parochial Association for education ge« 



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CAMPBBLTON. 467 

nerally ; Tmct Society, which has been in existence for the last 
fifteen years ; Sabbath School Society ; Ladies Clothing Society ; 
Destitute Sick Society. There has been collected for the last three 
years, L.245, 6s. 9d., for the five Schemes of the Church. There 
are also four Friendly Societies, which assist members in distress 
or sickness, and give small pensions to widows. 

Literature. — There are two circulating libraries in the town, 
one belonging to the Relief Society. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — Previous to 1818, the poor of this 
parish was supported by alms, and collections at the church doors ; 
but in that year, typhus fever was very fatal, and it having been 
ascertained that the disease was carried into many houses by beg- 
gars, moderate sums were raised, by voluntary subscription, for 
the purpose of serving the poor at one particular place, so as to 
stop the contagion ; but some of the heritors having subscribed 
inadequately, and others having withdrawn tb^r subscriptions too 
soon, a legal assessment became necessary, which has since been 
continued. During the first two years, the assessment was between 
L.dOO and L.400, and few complained of it, not being more than 
was given in alms; but now it amounts to nearly L.IOOO. 

The legal assessment (or the poor in the year 1842 was - L.d86 13 1 

Collections at church doors, - - - -12519 

Distributed among 286 paupers on permanent roll of 

parish, - . . . 

And among 84 on temporary roll, 
Coffins for paupers, - - 

Medical attendance and medicines, 
Salaries for collecting and distributing, to kirk-treasurer, 
to two beadles ... 



Arrears and cash on hand at the end of the year, - L. 141 7 

The parties relieved, whether on the temporary or permanent 
roll, were as follows, viz. 

'Males. Females. Total. 
Children of widows relicyed with their parents, - 13 20 33 

Wives whose husbands were in prison, - - - — 3 3 

Children of such wives relieved with their parents, 12 3 

Orphans, - - - - 5 8 13 

Foundlings, --..-. 218 

Insane persons confined, .... 3 5 8 

not confined, - - - . 3 5 8 

Persons wholly disabled from work not included in the iibove, 50 160 * 210 
partUUy disabled, - - - . - 14 66 80 

Able-bodied persons relieved on account of temporary sickness, 4 5 9 

Total. - 95 "275 370 * 

The burgh and landward parish are regarded as one parish. 





L.ini 14 10 


L.783 11 

119 8 

10 11 

4 3 

r, 35 

18 


5 
4 
6 




070 \± R 







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468 ARGTLESHIRE. 

and the rates are levied, without reference to distinction of Iowd 
and country, on the real rental of the proprietors, and the means 
of the inhabitants. The magistrates of the burgb, with the 
landward heritors and the kirk-session, lay on the assessment^ and 
appoint a committee to superintend the collection and distributioD 
of the funds. 

Prisons. — There is a prison or jail, with two apartments for 
debtors, and three for criminals, superintended and managed by 
one jailor. There are two police-officers for the district, one paid 
by the county, and the other paid by the county and burgb jointly. 

Fairs. — There are four fairs annually, viz. at Whitsunday, Lam- 
mas, Michaelmas, and Candlemas. 

Jnnss 8fc, — There are 76 public-houses and two excellent inns 
in the town. 

Fuel — Peat is used by the country people ; but coals are used 
by the inhabitants of Campbelton, brought partly from the coal- 
work here, but principally from Glasgow and Ayrshire. 

November 1843. 



PARISH OF ARDCHATTAN.* 

PRESBYTERY OF LORN, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

This parish had, till lately, the district of Muckaim united to 
it ; and the minister serving the cure preached on alternate Sab* 
baths in the church built for each district After the legislative 
enactment for endowing additional places of worship in the High** 
lands, (4th and 5th Geo. IV. c. 79 and 90), Muckaim obtained 
the bene6t of a minister for itself, having, in 1829, been erected 
into a parish qtwad sacra. But the church of Muckairn is at pre* 
sent vacant ; and, besides this^ the two districts are separated by ao 
arm of the sea : it appears more natural, therefore, to describe them 
separately. 

Name. — One of those devoted Christian ministers who accom- 
panied Columba to Scotland, in the year 563^ was Catan,f and 

* Drawn up by the late Incumbent of the parish, the Rev. Hugh Fntfer. 
f See Adomnan*8 Life of Columba. 



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ARDCHATTAN. 4&9 

from him, this parish derives its name, Ard-Chattan^ signifying, in 
the Gaelic language, "the height or promontory of Catan." 

Ardchattan parish was at one time known by the name of the 
parish of Bal-Mhaodan^ that is, the residence of " Maodan" or 
** Modan," some saint of the Popish calendar, in whose honour 
a church was erected in that subdivision of the county of Argyle 
called Cowal, and from which church the parish of Kil-Modan 
derived its name. 

The entire tract of country which forms the parish of Ardchat* 
tan, exclusive of that section of it which commences at the in* 
flux of the river Awe, and stretches to the north-east of Loch- 
etive, is, in common parlance, called ** Benderaloch," or " Ben- 
derloch," a name sufficiently descriptive of its physical aspect, for 
it signifies in Gaelic, (" beinn^eadar-dhd-Ioch**) " the mountain 
range between two arms of the sea^** here called " lochs," These 
lochs are Loch-etive, (from the Gaelic " eite" " wild^'*) towards 
the south ; and Loch-creran towards the north. 

Extent^ (Jr. — The length of the parish from the extremity of 
Glen-etive on (he north-east, to the point of Garvard (^^ garlh* 
drdy**) on the west, is more than 40 miles. In figure it is very ir- 
regular, and from this circumstance it varies much in breadth. 
From the head of Ardmucknish bay to I^ch*creran, the breadth 
at high water is scarcely half a mile, while this breadth increases to 
at least sixteen miles from the river Creran to the point of Dris- 
saig, on Loch Awe. The average breadth of the parish may be 
estimated at 10 miles. 

Ardchattan is bounded on the south and east by'Loch-etive, 
the river Awe, and Loch Awe, till where the mountain-stream 
Molla discharges its waters into that lake. This stream separates 
the parish of Ardchattan from Glenorchy. Loch-creran, and the 
river of that name, form its northern boundary, and divide it from 
the parish of Appin ; while, towards the* west, it is bounded hy 
the Llhinoe-loch. 

Besides several uninhabited islets, consisting generally of un* 
productive rocks, without even a covering of vegetation, there are 
two inhabited islands in the parish, Erisha^ situated at the entrance 
into Loch-creran, and Elan-duimUhy in Loch-etive, opposite to 
Bunawe. The former of these is a well-wooded and interesting 
island, containing, besides some good pasture land, a considerable 
proportion of arable, and forming a compact little farm. Elan- 
duimishy the other, is inhabited only by the ferryman, supports na 



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470 ARGYLESHIRE. 

more than a couple of cows and a few sfaeep, and is connected with 
the mainland by a stone bulwark, along which is conducted the pub- 
lic road} which, beyond the ferry, divei^es to Inveraray and Glen- 
orchy. 

The prevailing features of the parish are most conspicuously 
mountainous. Its aspect, however, .is agreeably diversified by ro- 
mantic valleys, rivers, plains, and wooded hills. Towards its west* 
em extremity, on both sides of the Benderloch range, there is a 
considerable extent of cultivated land, though the south-west side 
still presents a wide waste of unreclaimed moss and moor. With the 
exception of the plain at Glenure, and a few patches besides, the 
arable land commences towards the north, below Barcaldine House; 
stretches thence by Shean ferry, Lochnell- house, and Keil, on- 
wards to Connell ferry, and then from Connell eastward, with par- 
tial interruptions, to the ferry at Elan-duirnisfa. Proceeding up- 
wards from this ferry, along Loch-etive, little cultivation is to be 
seen on either side. Lofty mountains bound there, in all direc- 
tions, a very circumscribed horizon ; and, excepting at Cadderlie 
and Ardmaddy, these high grounds rise so abruptly from the 
margin of the loch, as to leave no level land to be subjected to the 
plough. 

Motmtains. — Ben-cruackan. — This is the highest mountain in 
the county of Argyle. It is said to tower to a height of 3669 
feet. Its base describes a circumference of more than twenty 
miles. Towards the north, from the vale of Glencoe, its acclivity 
is precipitous ; but from the south, behind Inverawe, its ascent is 
more gradual, and, besides lesser eminences, it terminates in two 
conical summits, which command a panorama of surpassing magni- 
ficence. 

Bett'cochailf which is next to Ben-cruachan towards the norths 
would, in most situations, be regarded as a lofty mountain ; but, 
overshadowed as it is by its gigantic neighbonr, it seems to dwindle 
into a moderately sized hill. 

Ben-starive is situated still farther up the loch. It forms a noble 
object in the landscape as the traveller advances, and attains ao 
elevation of at least 2500 feet Its base is of great amplitude, 
but its furrowed sides and rocky summit exhibit indications of total 
sterility. Among the debris on its sides and in the channels of 
its waters, specimens of crystallized quartz, of great size, and sus- 
ceptible of a high polish, are found by the solitary shepherd, and 
these are turned by him occasionally to good account. The Ben- 



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ARDCIIATTAN. 471 

starive crystals are sometimes clear and colourless, at oilier times 
of a dark and yellowish hue ; and by lapidaries, they are consi- 
dered not inferior to those found in the Grampians, and well known 
by the name of Cairngorms. 

Ben^nan-aighean^ or '* the mountain of the heifers/' lies south- 
east of the former, and its swelling sides and peering top are seen 
to most advantage when viewed from near to the Glen-etive chapel. 
Of great height, even among these high mountains, it yields but 
very indifferent pasture ; nor is there a single particle of vegetation 
to be met with after ascending half-way up to its granite peak. 
As in the case of Ben-starive, rock-crystals are found about its 
base, and in the channels of its many streams. 

Benckaarachf or *^ the mountain of the sheep," rises in close 
proximity to Ben-starive. Inferior to the latter in altitude and 
extent, it is yet a nobly-shaped mountain, and, as the name im- 
ports, seems to have been always considered well adapted for pas- 
turing the fleecy race. 

Ben'heilan is situated to the north of Ben-chaorach, exceeds 
it in height and in the beauty of its outline, and, what most prac- 
tical men will be disposed to regard as of at least equal importance, 
excels it also in productive qualities. The Alt-chctlan stream 
forms its boundary on the one hand, and Alt-chaoran on the other. 

We now come to the two most striking of all the masses in this 
wilderness of mountains, those to which the significant names of 
Buachail Etive^ or " the keepers of Eiive," have been given. 
These mountains may be seen in the distance by the traveller, soon 
after he has left Bunawe, but they assume a bolder aspect in pro^ 
portion as they are approached ; and, a little beyond the termina- 
tion of the loch, they aeem to frown in solemn suUenness on the 
puny mortals who venture to encroach on the solitudes over which 
they have forages so patiently kept watch. They are distinguished 
by the names of the greater and the lesser, or Buachail-mor and 
BuachaiUbeg^ not so much from their comparative elevation as 
from their extent; the former stretching eastward for six or seven 
miles till near to ^' King's House," and terminating in that direc- 
tion as precipitously as towards Loch-etive, while the Buachail- 
beg does not extend to more than half that distance. Neither of 
them is supposed to be less than 3000 feet in height. 

Ben-veedan^ distinguished also by the adjunct of '^ Nambian,*' 
or ^' of the deer skins," from the many deer killed there, is sepa- 
rated from Buachail'btg by the ** Idrig^^ or " mountain pass'* of 



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472 ARGYLESHIBE. 

Larig-amltj which opens into Glencoe. It is a stupendous mass ; 
so much SO) indeed, that, by the inhabitants, it is alleged to be not 
inferior in elevation to Ben-cruachan. 

Ben-tredahan is situated directly opposite to Ben-starive, and, on 
the west side of Loch-etive, which washes its base for 6ve miles, or 
nearly as far as the head of the loch. Here Loch*etive is greatly 
narrowed, and the high rugged sides of Ben-treehalan, on the one 
hand, and of Ben-starive, on the other, impart a wild and sombre 
character to the place, rarely parallelled even in mountain scenery. 
There is a formidable array of mountains on the Appin side of 
the parish, and it remains that the names of some of these be 
mentioned. 

Ben-aulay is the highest mountain in this north-east district, and 
is a well-shaped, rounded mountain, which will at once attract at- 
tention. 

Ben-scoullard follows next to the south-west, and is equally cal- 
culated to interest, from its size and its shape. 

Ben-vreck succeeds, a mountain range intervening, of some 
miles in length ; and then follows, 

Ben-molurgan and Ben-vean^ which form the last links in the 
chain which connects the Glen-creran mountains with Ben Duir- 
nish. 

Glejis — Glen-noe. — Formed by the northern side of Ben-crua« 
chan, and the south 'side of Beurcochail, this verdant glen is four 
miles in length by about one in breadth. It is watered through- 
out by a stream, which becomes finely wooded as it approaches the 
sea ; and, as a commodious dwelling-house has been erected near 
the opening of the glen by the respectable tacksman who now 
farms it, a sweeter and more sequestered summer residence can- 
not readily be met with. Glen-noe was, for many generations, 
held in wadset by a family of the name of M^Intyre, the head of 
which was considered in this country as the chieftain of that sept. 
Glenkinglas. — Though but a small portion of this glen can be 
seen from Loch-etive, owing to a curve in the course of the river, 
and the projection of a portion of the neighbouring mountain, its 
length is not less than nine miles, and the general breadth exceeds 
considerably that of Glen-noe. Its north side is bleak and rocky, 
but the south yields pasture of excellent quality. Excepting a few 
alder trees which grow along the river, and brushwood of little 
value, Glenkinglas is now almost bared of wood, though it was 
once adorned with firs equal to 



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AUDCHATTAN. 473 

*' the uUest pine 
Hewn OD Norwegian hills, to be the mast 
Of 9>me great ammiral.^ 

And though the quality of its timber was not inferior to the best 
Memel. But these woods were, almost a hundred years ago, let 
to an Iron Smelting Company from Ireland, who erected a furnace, 
the ruins of which are still visible, near the mouth of the river^ 
levelled a great proportion of the trees to the dust, and converted 
them to charcoal. The axe has since recklessly felled what re- 
mained. 

Glen-ketland opens from the river Etive, opposite to Inver- 
charnan, about three miles beyond the head of the loch, the 
mountain of the same name forming one of its sides. It does 
not exceed two miles in length, partakes of the character of the 
surrounding scenery, and adds considerably to the effect produced 
by the whole. 

Glen-etive exceeds in length any of our other glens ; for, from 
the head of the loch, where this glen commences, to the King's 
House, near to which it terminates, the distance is not less than 
sixteen miles, the tract throughout being marked with the impress 
of sublimity and loneliness. The whole district was once a royal 
forest, and the proprietor of Dalness is said to claim exemption 
from public burdens, on the ground of bis being hereditary fo- 
rester. A part of Glen-etive, and an extensive range contiguous, 
which forms a section of the parish of Glenorchy, has been again 
stocked with red-deer by the Marquis of Breadalbane, and some 
thousands of this noble race of animals now roam among these 
mountains. Mr Campbell of Monzie has likewise laid out a por- 
tion of his property in, Glen-etive for the same purpose. Like its 
neighbour Glenkinglas, Glen-etive, throughout its length and 
breadth, was once clothed with majestic firs and spreading oaks. 

Gfen-ure^ or " the Glen of the yew trees," opens from the 
river Creran, and stretches to the south and east for about 
three miles ; its remote extremity being characterized by sterile 
grandeur* The respectable family of Glenure once resided near 
the opening of this glen ; and the buildings, now falling into a 
dilapidated state, are superior to what would be expected in a 
locality so secluded. The plain in front of the mansion-house, 
though low, is of ample bounds ; and the adjacent farm of Bar^* 
namuck^ ^* or Height of the wild boar," the highest farm in the 
parish in that direction, has always been noted for the excellence 
of its pasture. 



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474 ARGTLESU1RE« 

Glentendali or Glendow^ is seven miles distant from Gienure, 
and nearer by that distance to the Atlantic, It is scarcely three 
miles in length, its direction being from east to west, and its 
lower section is luxuriantly clothed with wood. This glen is te* 
nanted by some hundreds of fallow-deer, which were first brougrht 
thither about eighty years ago, and have since continued within 
the limits of the glen and its near neighbourhood, without either 
an inclosure or a keeper. 

Glenscdloch runs nearly from south to north, is the most ele* 
vated of our glens, and forms the opening betwixt Loch-etive 
and Loch-creran, distant six miles from each other by this route. 
The views presented from this glen, when in sight of either loch, 
are very interesting. 

Coastf Climate. — In consequence of the irregular form of the 
parish, the extent of sea coast is not less than 65 miles. Towards 
the western extremity, the coast is comparatively low, though in- 
terspersed occasionally with rocks and projecting headlands of 
considerable altitude. The shore is sandy, generally over a 
clayey bottom ; and towards the head of Loch-etive, where the 
adjacent mountains are composed of granite rock, the particles of 
sand on the shore are uncommonly large, and are formed of com- 
minuted granite. There are several bays and indentations of 
unequal size, some of them forming fine sweeps. The Bay of 
Ardmucknish, which extends from beyond Lochnell-house to 
Connell Ferry, will at once arrest attention, from its ample range^ 
its finely pebbled beach, and the noble view which it commands. 

In so far as a judgment may be formed from the instances of 
longevity among us, our weeping climate exercises no unfavour- 
able influence on the health of the inhabitants. Many years have 
not elapsed since one man died here who attained the patriarchal 
age of 112 years. More recently, another reached bis 108th 
year. In a cottage within a short distance eastward of the manse, 
an aged sire resides now in his 96th year; while at about the 
same distance in the opposite direction, there live a venerable 
couple, whose united ages amount to 177 years, the husband 
having completed his 90th, and the wife her 87th year. It is 
but a few months since a woman in the next house, and within 
twenty yards of this pair, departed this life in her 98th year. 

Our winters are comparatively mild, and do not usually com* 
mence before the middle of December ; aiid though our moun- 
tain tops are clothed in a snowy mantle for at least five mouths of 

3 



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AUDCHATTAN. 475 

the year, it is not usual for snow to continue on our low grounds 
for more than a few days. 

Hydrography* — Liocb-etive and Loch-creran, the two arms of 
the sea by which so large a proportion of the parish is bounded 
and intersected, have already been noticed. The former branches 
from the Lliunhe loch at Dunstafiuage castle, and, after passing 
Connell and Buuawe, bends towards the north, and stretches into 
the interior among the mountains, till it terminates at Kinloch- 
etive, its entire length being twenty-two miles. In breadth it va- 
ries from less than a quarter of a mile to a mile and a half, and, 
in consequence of the high grounds and projecting points along 
its shores, it seems in several places as if land-locked, and thus 
presents the appearance of so many inland lakes. 

The depth of Loch-etive varies from twenty fathoms, which 
may be given as its medium depth, to upwards of a hundred 
fathoms, that being its depth a little beyond the base of Ben- 
cruachan. The anchorage in its bays is safe and good ; and it 
is regularly navigated by vessels of from sixty to a hundred tons 
register. The saltness of its waters decreases above Connell, in 
consequence of the quantity of fresh water received from the 
many rivers and streams which empty themselves into it; and 
this fact, while it is perceptible to the taste, is indicated also by 
the diminished size of the Algm along its shores. The tide rises 
fourteen feet at Connell, and beyond that, towards the mountains, 
only ten feet. 

At Connell ferry the channel of Loch-etive is narrowed by 
the form of the land and projecting rocks, from a breadth of up- 
wards of a mile, to a space of no more than two hundred yards ; 
while a ledge of rock, the top of which becomes visible at about 
half-tide, runs across two-thirds of this narrow space. The con- 
sequence is, that, at certain times during the ebbing and flowing of 
the tide, a striking marine fall is exhibited. The tide rushes over 
the ledge of rock, and through the narrow channel left, with 
a rapidity which is quite resistless, and with a noise which, dur- 
ing spring-tides, in calm weather and in certain states of the at- 
mosphere, is heard at the distance of several miles. Yet with all 
this, though terri6c to a stranger, Connell is by no means a dan- 
gerous ferry even when the tide is most impetuous, and the roar- 
ing of the stream most deafening; for the boatmen, aware of the 
peculiarities in the current and eddies, manage accordingly, and 
contrive to make what would at 6rst appear to be an insuperable 



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J 



476 AROYLESHIRE. 

obstacle, contribute to the facility of the passage across. The tid« 
continues to flow at (Donnell only about four hours and a half, and 
to ebb upwards of seven hours ; and it is singular, though easily 
accounted for, that the tide begins to flow below the fall an hoar, 
or rather more, before it does so above the fall ; and the strange 
phenomenon is thus exhibited of the tide flowing in one place, and 
ebbing strongly in another, within a few yards, at one and the 
same time.* 

Loch'creran^ like Loch-etive, is connected with the Llhinne- 
loch, from which it separates at the island of Eriska. Its length is 
twelve miles, and its average breadth is one mile and a-half, though 
there is a strait near to Dalchulis, when it narrows to less than 
150 yards ; and then the current becomes rapid, as it does 
likewise at the ferry of Shean. The average depth of Loch-cre« 
ran is 15 fathoms; the rise of the water at spring tides is from 

• Before leaving this arm of the sea it will gratify every reader of taste to peruse 
the account given of [.och-etive and the surrounding scenery, by an author who has 
repeatedly tri>d ite shores, and who is one of the most powerful writers, both in 
poetry and in prose, of the age in which he lives. " Loch-etive," observes Profes. 
sor Wilson, ** between the ferries of Connel and Bunawe, has been seen by almost 
all who have visited the Highlands but very imperfectly ; to know what it is, you 
must row or sail up it, for the banks on both sides are often richly wooded, assume 
many fine forms, and are frequently well embayed ; while the expanse of water is suf- 
iiciently wide to allow you, from iu centre, to command a view of many of the dis- 
tant heighu. But above Bunawe it is not the same loch. For a couple of miles it 
is not wide, and it is so darkened by enormous shadows, that it looks even less like a 
strait than a gulf, huge overhanging rocks on both sides ascending high, and- yet felt 
to belong but to the bases of mountains that, sloping far back, have their summits 
among cloudsof their own in anotherregion of the sky. Yet are they not all horiid, for 
nowhere else is there such lofty heather, — it seems a wild sort of brush-wood ; uU 
trees flourish single or in groves, chiefly birches, and now and then an oak, and they 
are in their youth or their prime, — and even the prodigious trunks, some of which 
have been dead for centuries, are not all dead, but shoot from their knotted rhind, 
symptoms of life unextinguished by time and tempest. Out of this gulf we emerge 
into the upper loch, and its amplitude sustains the majesty of the mountains, all of 
the highest order, and seen from their feet to their crests. Cruachan wears the crown 
and reigns over them all,^king at once of Loch-etive and Loch Awe. But Bu- 
Bohail-edve, though afar off, is still a giant ; and in some lights comes forward, 
bringing with him the Black Mount and its dependents, so that all seem to belong 
to this most magnificent of all Highland lochs. ^ I know not,* says MacCulloch, 
that Loch-etive; could bear an ornament without an infringement on that aspect of 
solitary vastness' which it presents throughout. Nor is there one. The rocks and 
bays, on the shore which might elsewhere attract attention, are here swallowed up in 
the enormous dimensions of the surrounding mountains, and the wide and ample ex- 
panse of the lake. A solitary house, here fearfully solitary, situated far up in Glen, 
etive, is only visible when at the upper extremity ; and if there be a tree, as there 
are in a few places on the shore, it is unseen, extinguished as if it were a humble 
mountain flower by the universal magnitude around.* To feel the full power of 
Glen-etive, you must walk up it till it ceases to be a glen. "Vllien in the middle of 
the moor, you see far off a solitary dwelling indeed, —perhaps the loneliest house in all 
the Highlands^— and the solitude is made profound as you pass by, by the voice of a 
cauract, hidden in an awful chasm, bridged by two or three stems of trees along which 
the red deer might fear to venture, — but we have seen them and the deer-hounds 
glide over it, followed by other fearless feet, when far and wide the forest of Dalneas 
was echoing to the hunters* horn.'^ 



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ARDCHATTAN. 477 

15 to 16 feet ; and, as the bottom is clayey, the anchorage in the 
bays is safe and good. The waters possess more saltness than 
they do in Loch-etive, from causes which have already been 
stated. 

Springs, — The parish abounds, in perennial springs, which afford 
constant supplies of the finest water. Some of these springs, in the 
days of other years, obtained notoriety, and were resorted to by in- 
valids in consequence of the sanative properties which they were 
supposed to possess, though these are now- a-days greatly atdiscount. 
Of this description of springs, it may be mentioned, that there is 
one about midway up the hill behind Achnacree {Aanach-drd^o^ 
heragan^) named tobar bhile'TUx-banna. At this well votive offerings 
were wont to be left, — a practice which did not wholly fall into de« 
suetude till within the last forty years. 

About fifteen years ago, a well was discovered in marshy ground 
near the fa^m-house of Achacha, the waters of which contained, 
in considerable quantity, sulphuretted hydrogen. It disappeared 
not long afterwards. — There are several fresh-water lakes within 
our bounds, but none of them of great extent. One, near to Coa- 
nell, may be mentioned, named lochan-na-btdichf or ''the lake of 
the beast," from some frightful animal said to have been of old 
seen in or near its waters. The banks of this lake, throughout 
its whole extent, are about twelve feet higher than the surface 
of its waters ; and though there is a considerable stream flowing 
in, there is none running out of it, the surplus waters being 
absorbed, and finding their way by some subterraneous passage 
to the sea, which is distant only a short space. Two other lakes, 
of a similar size, or rather larger, are situated in the moor above 
Achnaha'; and a third in the upper or Glen-etive district, called 
Lochan-mSr^Eite. All these lakes are occasionally resorted to 
by the angler, whose pains are rewarded by trouts of a darkish-red 
colour, but of nt> great size. 

Bivtrs. — As Ben-cruachan is the loftiest mountain, so the Awe, 
which washes a section of its base, and forms our south-east boun- 
dary, is the largest river in the county. This noble stream is 
discharged from Lochawe at the strikingly wild and romantic pass 
of Bratndir (braiffh-n^t'^sruih^) and, after a short course westward 
of no more than four miles, it falls into Loch-etive at Bunawe. 
The average breadth of the river Awe is forty. three yards; and 
its average depth at its fords, not calculating the depth of the 
fords, may be given at three and a-half feet. Owing to the de- 



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478 ARQYLESIHRE. 

clivity in J he land, it flows from its outlet till its termination with 
great impetuosity over rocks and granite boulders ; and from the 
rapidity of its course, and the volume of its waters, it is believed 
that few of our Scottish rivers discharge so great a quantity of 
water within the year into the sea. Having Lochawe as its source, 
the flow of the Awe is more equable than that of most other 
streams; for, though greatly enlarged after continued rains, it does 
not rise so rapidly nor fall so suddenly as rivers generally do. Its 
banks, particularly from a little above the bridge of Awe down- 
wards, are richly wooded ; and throughout its interesting course^ 
there are few rivers where the expert angler, who does not object to 
wade as well as to ply his fishing-rod, may calculate on meeting 
with better success. 

The Etive^ next to the Awe, is our largest river. It flows in a 
westerly and south-west direction, and its length, from its source 
near to King's-faouse to the head of Loch-etive, is sixteen miles. 
An inconsiderable rill at its commencement, it receives in its course 
the confluence of numberless tributaries, and thus swells to the 
dimensions of a pretty broad river before it mingles its waters with 
Loch-etive. By competent judges who have tested the fact, the 
Etive is represented as a good fishing stream, though little known 
to anglers; and the tourist, in ascending its banks, will be gratified 
with the view of two fine cascades, the first near to Coinletter, and 
the other, more striking still, close by Dalness. 

The Kififflas is considerably less than the Etive, though after 
rain it becomes a very formidable stream. Its course is south- 
west ; its length about twelve miles ; and, as it flows in a channel 
composed of shelving rocks and granite stones, its waters are per- 
fectly clear, — a remark which holds as to all our rivers. Salmon 
are pretty numerous. The use of stake- nets in Loch-etive has been 
allowed. 

The Liver is less than the Kinglas, and is Situated towards 
the south from that river. Its length is six miles, its direction is 
westerly, and, as the name of that farm imports, it falls into Loch- 
etive at Inverliver. 

The Noe lies south of the Kinglas, and is nearly equal to the 
latter in size. Its direction also is similar ; and throughout its 
course, of four miles, it waters the valley already described under 
the name of Glen-noe, exhibiting, about a mile beyond its conflu- 
ence with Loch-etive, a cascade, the sight of which can scarcely 
fail to gratify, especially if seen when the Noe has been swelled 



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AUDCHATTAN. 479 

after rains by the torrents which are then poured into it from the 
rugged mountains on each side of it^ 

There are other streams of considerable magnitude in this sec- 
lion of the parish, " rivers unknown to song," but which it would 
be improper not to mention. Among these are the Guisachan, 
which, as indicated by the name, falls into the sea at Inverguisa- 
chan ; the Carnan, which meets the riyer Etive at Invercharnan ; 
and, beyond it, the Eolan, another tributary of the same river. 

The Creraiiy which rises between Corra-vein and Bein«Aulay, 
and flows in a westerly direction at least twelve miles. In its syl- 
van course it passes through the beautiful fresh water lake of Fas- 
nacloich, and after having scooped out for itself, a little beyond 
that lake, a channel resembling a natural canal, which is navigable 
by small boats for a short distance, it falls into the sea at the head 
of Loch-creran, having previously attaineil the size of a respect*' 
able river. 

The Ure is not much more than seven miles in length, runs in 
a northern direction, and passing westward of Glenure House, falls 
into the Creran a little below. 

The Bute is not nearly so large, — nor above three miles long. 
The Buie discharges itself into Loch-creran. 

The Tendaly pronounced Ta'il, waters the glen of that name, 
flows in a westerly course for about six miles, and is in several 
places well fitted to command admiration from its picturesque falls, 
its wooded banks, and the splendid and diversified views presented 
wherever a sight of Loch-creran can be obtained from its chan- 
nel or its banks. 

The Dergan* rises in the heights of Glensalloch, and after a 
short northern course, through that glen and the woods above 
Barcalaim-house, it falls into Loch-creran at Inver'ergan. 

There are two other streams of some magnitude, which flow in 
a southerly direction, and empty themselves into Loch-etive, and 
with the mention of these we will conclude the account of our 
rivers. These are the Esragan^mcre and Esragan-beg^ or the 
greater and lesser Esragan, separated by the mountain called Ben- 
vean, and terminating, the larger at Inveresragan, and the other 
below the farm-house of Blarcreen. The length of the Esragan- 
more is not above five miles, that of the other is hardly so much. 

Cascades. — The largest, in so far as relates to the body of wa- 
ter, are the falls of Dalness in Glen- etive, and those of Coinietter 

• Dearg-anlhtiinn, i. e, ** the red river." 



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480 ARGYLESHIRE. 

on the same river. The highest are the cascades formed by the 
streams which rush down the precipitous sides of Buacbail-edve. 
One of these, the cascades of " Vrogie," ** Eas-a-bhroffiehy** situ- 
ated two miles beyond, the house of Dalness, is ?ery remarkable, 
not merely from its elevation, but also from the peculiar character 
of its channel. At about 300 feet from the bottom of this cascade, 
the rock is so formed that there is a natural recess of at least 50 
yards, to which there is a winding access. When arrived at the 
interior of this recess, one is surrounded ou every side by high 
and almost perpendicular rocks, while the light of day can be 
seen only through a narrow vista of more than 600 feet high. 
About a mile onwards, in the same glen, is another lofty cas- 
cade called Eas-an-fhir^mhoir^ or " the cascade of the great one;'* 
— and, at a distance of two miles farther, in the same direction, 
another called ** Eas^a-bhodich^*'' or " the hermit's cascade." 

On Ben-treelachan in Glenetive many falls are to be seen, — 
*' Eas'doire'Dhanachief** or " the fall of the grove of Duncan," be- 
ing the most conspicuous. On the larger Esraganan, two pretty 
falls, though on a comparatively small scale, — and on the lesser 
stream of that name, there are several, among \\hich, one will be 
found to possess considerable boldness and beauty. Some of the 
cascades on Ben-cruachan, are to be seen in travelling the road 
from Glenorchy to Bunawe, and will naturally attract the notice of 
the traveller. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The few following remarks on geology 
are from a paper by DrMacCulloch, on the Geology of Ben Cru- 
achan, published in the Transactions of the Geological Society, 
14th December 1814. ^^ The rocks of which our mountains are 
composed are chiefly the mica-slate, penetrated in various directions 
by veins of quartz, granite or micaceous granular quartz, and por* 
phyry, of which the Buachail Etive mountains consist. The junction 
of the granite with the schistus is seen at the base of Ben Cruach- 
an above Bunawe. Large veins may be seen proceeding from the 
great mass of the mountain, and ramifying into innumerable small 
divisions, penetrating and traversing the schistus in all directions." 

The immense masses of granite along the shores of Loch-etive 
might, it is believed, be turned to some account by the proprie- 
tors. This kind of stone, it is well known, may be dressed so as 
to acquire a good polish. It can now be cut with wedges to any di- 
mensions. When dressed it has a fine appearance, and in dura- 
bility it is surpassed by no other stone* Persons who have seen 



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ARDCHATTAN. 481 

both prefer decidedly the Glen*etive granite to the blocks lately 
shipped at Dalbeattie, in Galloway, (pr building the new docks 
at Liverpool. 

There is lead ore in a part of the hill near to Baleveolan^ 
house, and something was at one time done in the view of open- 
ing a mine there ; but, although appearances were not unpromising, 
the necessary expenditure in mining concerns is great, while the 
speculation is rather a hazardous one, and, on these grounds, ope-^ 
rations wer^ soon discontinued. A bed of marble, it is also said, 
is to be found on the same farm ; but the quality is not considered 
to be superior, and it has been allowed to remain undisturbed. 

The general character of our soil is a light loam on a gravelly 
subsoil. Such a soil, it is well known, soon becomes exhausted 
by cropping, and from its absorbent quality requires the frequent 
application of manure. Clay exists in many places near the sea, 
which is capable of i>eing manufactured into bricks and tiles. 

Zoology. — Under this department it may be stated, that we have 
a goodly share of those animals which are to be found in moun- 
tainous and wooded regions. That the wild boar and the wolf, 
though now exterminated, were once common here, is indicated by 
their names being still incorporated with some of our localities. 
Thus, we have Bar^nam^mucy or, " the wooded eminence of the 
boar ;" Drim*mhuic^ " the boar's ridge ;" Ard-mhaduidh^ " the 
wolf 's promontory ;*' Ard-mhucinniSy "the boar's peninsular height.'' 
Nor is there reason to doubt that the stately capercailzie once re- 
joiced amongst the fir forests of Glen-etive. 

Of quadrupeds there are the following /;r(E naturcBX — Red- 
deer, (Cervus Elaphus) ; fallow-deer, (C. Dama) ; roe-deer, (C. 
Capreolus) ; common hare, {Lepus timidus) ; white or alpine hare, 
(L. variabilii); fox, {Canu Vulpes); otter, (Lutra vulgaris) ; bad- 
ger, {Meles Taxw) ; wild-cat, {Felia Catus) ; marten cat, (Mustela 
Foina) ; polecat, (M. Putorius); weasel, (Af. vulgaris). Though 
the red-deer abound in Glen-etive, they occasionally visit other parts 
of the parish, especially in winter. The fallow-deer confine them- 
selves to the woods in the neighbourhood of Barcaldine. The roe« 
deer are found in considerable numbers, wherever there is cover, 
over the whole parish. The white or alpine hare frequents our 
high grounds, generally the tops of our mountains. Badgers, foxes, 
wild-cats, martens, polecats, though not so frequently to be met 
with as in former times, are considered to be still too numerous. 
Our game are, red grouse, {Lagopus Scoticus) ; partridge, 

ARGYLE. H h 



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48-2 argVleshire. 

{Perdix cinered) ; blackcock, (Tetrao Tetrix) ; ptarmigan, (Laga* 
pus albus) ; with such waders as the following, most of which are 
migratory, ** knowing their appointed times, and observing the 
time of their coming:" — Woodcock, {Scolopaz rusticola) ; jack- 
snipe, (S, gallinuld) ; common snipe, {S, gallinago) ; golden plo- 
ver, (Charadrius pluvialis) ; gray plover, {Squaterola cinerea) ; 
curlew, {Numenim arquata) ; fieldfare, {Turdua pilaris); lap- 
wing, (Vanellus cristatas) ; corncrake, (Ortygomttra crez). 

Of birds of prey we have, the eagle, {Aquila)^ two kinds, hav- 
ing their aeries in the mountains of Loch-etive and Loch-creran, 
viz. the sea eagle, (Aquila Chrysae'ios)^ and the common or brown 
eagle, ( A. albicilla) ; buzzard, ( Buteo vulgaris) ; kite or glead, 
(Mihus vulgaris) ; kestrel, (Falco Tinnunculus) ; sparrow-hawk, 
{Falco nisus) ; peregrine falcon, {Falco peregrinus) ; barn owl^ 
{Strix Jlammea) ; long- eared owl, (Otus vulgaris) ; screech, {Strix 
stridula) ; raven, {Corvus corax) ; jay-pyot, (C. Pica)* 

Besides the common singing birds, which, from the extent of 
our wooded district, are numerous, we have the following land 
birds not yet mentioned: Missel-thrush, {Turdua viscivoms) ; 
green linnet, {Coccothraustes chloris) ; kingfisher, {Alcedo ispida) ; 
goat-sucker, ( Caprimulgus Eurapaus) ; blackbird, ( Turdvs me^ 
rtda*) It is said that a white crow is sometimes foimd in a rook- 
ery, and a white specimen of this last mentioned bird, Hibemiccy 
a white blackbird, was seen at Barcaldine in 1837. 

Of the Waders it may be stated, that the heron, {Ardea ci- 
nerea)i is very common; and also the water- rail, {Rallus aquatic 
cus)i common water-hen, {Gallinida chloropus)^ the whimbril, 
{Numenius P1uEopus)^w^iL the oyster-catcher, {Hamatopus ostra- 
legus)^ are, though more rarely, to be met with. 

The Water-birds, or Swimmers, which frequent our coasts, 
friths, and lakes, are numerous, especially when increased by those 
which come to us about the end of October, and leave us in 
March for colder climes. We have the shag or scart {Phalacro^ 
carax Graculus) ; cormorant {Phalacrocorax Carbo) ; common 
mallard or wild duck {Anas boschas) ; wigeon {Anas penelopt) ; 
teal {Anas crecea) ; golden-eye duck {Anas dangtda) ; the tern 
{Sterna hirundo) ; wild swan, rare, (Cygnus ferus) ; tufted duck 
{Fuligula cristata) ; gray lag, or common wild goose {Anser ferus) ; 
northern diver {Colymbus glaeialis) ; speckled diver (C sepUu'^ 
irionalis) ; dun diver (C. arcticus); little grebe or dobchick (Po- 
diceps minor) ; tippet or crested grebe {P. cristatas) ; razor-bill 



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ARDCHATTAN. 463 

«uk (Atca Torda) ; guillemot {Vria Troth) ; puffin {Fratercula 
arciica) ; tern (Sterna hirundo). There are also several kinds 
of gulls. 

Ichthyology. — The following varieties of fishes are to be found ; 
some of them in abundance in our seas, lakes, and rivers. Cod 
{Morrhua vulgaris) ; ling (Molva vulgaris) ; whiting (Mer- 
langus vulgaris) ; rock cod or red cod ; mackerel (Scomber 
vulgaris) ; dog-fish (Spinax Acanthius) ; gurnard ( Trigla gur-^ 
nardus) ; flounder (Platnsajlesus) ; sole-fish (So&a i^u^am) ; tur- 
bot (Pleuronectes maximus) ; skate (Raiabatis) ; haddock, rare, 
{Morrhua .^lejinus) ; sand-eel (Ammodytes Tobianus) ; cat- 
fish (Anarrhichas lupus) ; John Doree (Zeus Faber) ; minnow 
(^Leuciscus phoxinus) ; stickleback (Gasterosteus aculeatus) ; 
common burn-trout {Salmo fario) in all our rivers. There is a 
large species of trout peculiar to Loch-awe, which sometimes 
weighs thirty pounds and upwards. Pike is also found there. 

There are varieties of shell-fish on the shores of Loch-creran, 
and in Loch-etive, below Connell. Oysters are to be found in 
Loch-creran, but in no great numbers; and there are crabs {Can^t 
cer pagurus) ; lobsters (Cancer grammarus) ; shrimps (^Cancer 
crangon) ; mussels {Mytilus edulus) ; clams (Pecten opercuiaris) ; 
spout- fish (Salen siliqua) ; lady-fish ; limpets (Patella vulgata) ; 
periwinkles (Turbo littoralis) ; cockles {Cardium edule). The 
seal (Phoca vitulina) and welks frequent both our lochs; and the 
grampus and porpoise are sometimes seen. 

Of the reptile tribe, we have the lizard (Tjacerta agilis) ; and 
the common viper or adder ( Vipera communis). The glow-worm 
is not uncommon. 

Botany. — Our parish forms a wide, and, it is believed, an in- 
teresting field for the botanist to explore, especially as regards 
some of the rarer mountain plants. The following are pretty ge- 
neral : — 

Hypericum monunum Geranium inolle Suifraga tridactylites ^ ^ 

pulchrum Drosera rotuudifolia Hirculus 

Jasioiie roontanum Parnassia paiustris TroNius Europnus 

Saponaria officinalis Lyaimachia nemorum 

Veronica fruticulosa Saxifraga hypnoides 

The fresh water lakes produce NympluBa alba^ N. lutea^ and 
other aquatics ; and the Silene maritimai and Verbascum virgatum 
are found along our beaches. 

fVoods and Plantations. — The climate is particularly congenial 
to the growth of trees in all situations where there is depth of 

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484 ARGYLE8HIRE. 

soil ; and it will excite wonder to observe the size which treed 
have attained in some situations, when the shallowness of the soil 
is most evident ; this is to be ascribed in a great measure to the 
humidity of the climate. Our indigenous trees are, oakr {Quercus 
rcbur and sessiliflora) ; ash (Fraxinns excelsior) ; Scotch fir ( PinuM 
sylvestris) ; mountain-ash (Pyrus aucuparia) ; elm {Ulmus mon* 
tana); holly (Ikx Aquifolium) ; yew {Taxus baccata); alder 
{Almis glutinosa) ; hxTc^A (Betula aJba) ; bird-cherry (/'rwMi« Pa* 
dua); hazel (Corylus avellana); hawthorn (Cratcegus oxyacantha ;) 
aspen (Populus tremula) ; and at least threfe kinds of willow (&- 
lix). The plantations in the parish are on the Barcaldine^ 
Lochnell, Ardchattan, and Inverawe estates. They consist chiefly 
of larches {Larix vulgaris) ; spruce 6r {Abies vulgaris) ; silver 
fir {Pinus picea) ; Weymouth pine {Pinus strtAus,) Near the 
mansions of the proprietors are the lime-tree (Tilia Europtea 
grandifolia) ; beech {Fagus sylvatica) ; poplar {Populus alba) ; 
plane or sycamore {Acer pseudo^plantanus) ; laburnum {Cytisus 
laburnum); gean (Prunus avium); Spanish chestnut {Castanea 
vesca) ; horse chestnut {JEsculus hippocastanvm) ; a few walnut 
trees {Juglans regia) ; and golden willow {Salix vitellina). 

The extent of ground covered with wood probably exceeds 
3000 acres. 

At Condallich, near Barcaldine house, are the remains of an 
oak, honoured^ from its antiquity, with the name of Fingal's oak, 
which, though much decayed, measures 23 feet in girth. When 
first measured (1835) the FingaKs oak was 29 feet in circumfe- 
rence, and then not more than half of it appeared to remain. A 
considerable portion fell afterwards, which reduced its girth to 
the size mentioned. 

On the Hill of Invercharnan, and a little above the farm-house, 
there is another oak which has been lying on the ground for ages, 
and the girth of which, twenty feet from the root, is 18 feet 9 
inches ; and another, not far from it, the girth of which, at the 
same distance, is 15 feet 3 inches. The trees, the girth of which 
is given below, are still in vigorous growth, and these dimensions 
were taken three feet from the ground: a silver fir, 13 feet 6 
inches ; larch, 8 feet 1 1 inches ; weeping-birch, 9 feet 6 inches ; 
beech, 10 feet 6 inches ; gean (at Glenure) 8 feet ; do. (at Blar- 
creen) 7 feet 6 inches; ash (Barcaldine; 10 feet 6 inches; do. 
(at Ardchattan) 9 feet 10 inches; elm (Barcaldine) 8 feet 2 



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ARDCHATTAV. 4»6 

itiches; cherry, 7 feet 2 inches; hawthorn (Lochnell) 6 feet; 
walnut, do. 4 feet 8 inches ; Spanish chestnut (Barcaldine) 7 feet 
.2 inches; holly (Kennacraig) 5 feet 7 inches; yew (Blarcreen 
garden) 6 feet 9 inches ; plane or sycanoore (at Ardchattan) 9 
feet 6 inches; cherry (Glenure) 7 feet 2 inches; Carnock pear, 

5 feet 8 inches; green yar pear, 6 feet; tulip tree (Liriodendron 
tnlipifera) 4 feet ; a hawthorn with seven stems growing from one 
root, three of these stems measure 3 feet 9 inches ; other three, 

6 feet 9 inches ; and the last, 1 foot 10 inches ; in all, 17 feet 10 
inches. 

The yew tree appears to have of old grown here luxuriantly, 
and in abundance. Glenure received its designation from the 
yews that adorned, and would still adorn, the sides of that valley, 
were it not stocked with sheep, which devour the young plants 
whenever they appear ; and the yews of Easragain were considered, 
by Celtic warriors, superior to all other for their bows.* 

The garden at Barcaldine contains three acres within the walls, 
and about nine acres within the outer fence, containing orchard, 
shrubbery, and other pleasure ground. The Ggure is a square, 
with the south-east and south-west points cut off, forming six sides 
for the figure,- but not in the proper hexagonal shape. The height 
of the walls is 13 feet 15 inches, 16 feet 3 inches, 18 feet 3 inches, 
and 20 feet. It contains five divisions of Scotch acres, 30 feet 
each. Three of these are occupied by vines and peaches, one 
is used as an orange house, and the other as a camellia house. 
There are 76 feet of glass besides for exotic plants, rearing of 
pine apples, and other ornamental tropical plants. The situation 
for a garden is first-rate, with terrace banks, fish-ponds, and ser- 
pentine walks, ornamented with the stately Pinus picea, and other 
flowering shrubs. It is supplied with a fine stream of water, fal- 
ling from a neighbouring mountain over precipices, and winding 

* This is proved by Gaelic verses, which are still fondly repealed by our old people, 
and which Dr Smith of Campbelton introduced into his Collection of Sean Dana, 
with the following remark : ** Every body knows the bow to have been made of yew. 
Among the Highlanders of latter times, that which grew in the wood of Easragain, 
in Lorn, was esteemed the best The feathers most in vogue for the arrows were 
furnished by the eagles of Loch Treig, the wax for the string by Baill-na-gailrbhinn, 
and the arrow heads by the Smiths of the race of MacPheidearain. This piece of in- 
struction, like all the other knowledge of the Highlanders, was couched in verse : 

** Bogha dh*inghar Easragain, 

Is it«*f)rein Locha Treig, 

Ceir bhuidhe Bhaile-na-gailbhinn, 

Sceann &n cheard MaePheiderain. 



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486 ARGYLESHIRE. 

through a steep romantic glen, along which are walks which lead 
to many interesting scenes. Some of nature's sweetest views are 
discovered from the high ground. 

IL — Civil History. 

Historical EvetUs. — The western extremity of the district ap- 
pears to have been the theatre of sanguinary conflicts betwixt 
the Aborigines and their Scandinavian invaders and plunderers. 
Vague traditions do not constitute our only ground for believing 
this. The names of several of our localities attest it ; our many 
cairns and detached obelisks also attest it, exclusive of the heroic 
' poetry of the son of Fingal and of the songs of many a later bard. 
But, passing over these, there were other occurrences in our 
bounds which come within the range of authentic history. Mac- 
Phaidan, an Irishman, who was serviceable to Edward I. when 
engaged in his attempt to subvert the independence of Scotland, 
and to whom that monarch, in 1297, made a grant for his ser- 
vices of the lordship of Argyle and Lorn, was attacked by Sir 
William Wallace, and defeated, a. d. 1300, at the north-east side 
of Ben-cruachan, near to the pass of Brainder. Wallace, on his 
way to Argyleshire, was met in Glendochart by Sir Niel Camp- 
bell, Knight of Loch Awe, with 300 men. They found Mac- 
Phaidan posted at Ben Cruachan. The onset is said to have 
been keen. Many hundreds of MacPhaidan's followers were 
driven to the lake and drowned; and though he himself, with 
Bfteen men, fled to a neighbouring cave, his retreat was discovered, 
and he was there slain. 

After Robert Bruce was overpowered at Methven by the army 
of Edward L, unikr Aylnier de Valence Earl of Pembroke, he 
set out, with his few remaining followers, for Argyleshire, to join 
his connection. Sir Niel Campbell. In these circumstances, 
Bruce was attacked at Dairy, near Tyndrum, by Alexander Mac- 
dougall Lord of Lorn, who was married to the aunt of Comyn, 
whom Bruce had killed in the Greyfriars' Church at Dumfries* 
As might be expected, Bruce was discomfltted ; but not till be had 
given renewed proofs of personal valour. Two brothers^ adhe- 
rents of Macdougall, vowed if they met Bruce that they would 
either dispatch him or perish in the attempt They were both 
slain by Bruce's own hands. This happened in 1306. 

In 1308j Bruce returned again to Argyleshire, with the view of 
chastising the Lord of Ix)rn. The Macdougalls lay in ambush to 



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ARDCUATTAN. 487 

-surprise him at tliQ pass of Criiachau ; but Bruce used the pre- 
caution of ordering Douglas to make a circuit towards the summit 
of the mountain, — his own troops having Loch Awe on their left, 
and Bencruachan on their right. On entering the pass, Bruce 
was attacked by the men in ambush, which, when Douglas ob- 
served, he rushed down on the assailants sword in hand. The 
event was not doubtful. Lorn's troops, beaded by his son, were 
totally routed. Bruce then made himself master of the whole 
country, took possession of Dunstaffnage Castle, the chief resi- 
dence of the Lord of Lorn, and made a grant of it and of a large 
extent of territory to his relative Stewart, afterwards called Lord 
of Lorn. Macdougall and his son were permitted to retire to 
England, where he soon after died.* 

During tha devastations occasioned by Montrose in the reign of 
Charles L, this part of Argyleshire was ravaged by his barbarous 
Irish auxiliaries, under the command of Alexander Macdouald, 
better known here by his patronymic Alaater MaccolL Macdo- 
uald entered this parish in the winter of 1644-5 by Loch Etive ; 
and visited all who bore the name of Campbell with the pains of 
fire and sword.f 

Eminent Characters. — Colin Campbell, for many years minister 
of Ardchattan, appears to have been one of the most eminent men 
of his age for attainments in mathematics and astronomy. I am in* 
* debted to his respectable descendant, John Gregorson, Esq.of Ard- 
Cornish, for the short account of him which follows : Mr Campbell 
was son of Patrick Campbell, ancestor of the family of Barcaldine, 
then of Inverzeldies, in Perthshire, and of Beatrice or Bethia, 
daughter of Patrick, seventh in the line of the respectable family 
of Ochtertyre. He was born in 1644, studied at St Andrews, and 
afterwards, as Mr Gregorson thinks, at one of the English univer- 
sities, eithei* as companion or tutor to his relative, Robert, after- 
wards Sir Robert Campbell of Glenorchy, one of the ancestors 
of the present Marquis of Breadalbane. 

Mr Campbell is mentioned as an ^^ expectant," in the records of 
the presbytery of Lorn, in 1666; and, in the following year, he 
was admitted minister of Ardchattan and Muckairn. In 1668, he 
was appointed presbytery clerk, which office he held till his death, 
— a period of nearly sixty years, discharging his duties in that ca- 

4 

* Lord Hailes* Aniials. 

t See narrative given in Chamber8'*8 Journal for December 1835. 



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468 ARGYLESHIRE. 

pacity with singular correctness and propriety. Two of the vo* 
lumes of the records, during bis incumbency, bave unfortunately 
been lost, those, namely, which contained the minutes of Presby- 
tery , from 1681 till 1704, and from 1714 till the period of his 
death in 1 726. From his father Mr Campbell inherited the farm 
of Drimvuick, in the upper part of this parish ; but, on being ad- 
mitted to his charge, he exchanged these lands with one of his re- 
lations for the farm of Achnaba, which, though inferior in value, 
lay more contiguous to the great body of his people, and which he 
improved and embellished to an extent, at that time, uncommon in 
this partof the country. Some of the silver firs, lime, and other trees 
which were planted by him still remain, and are of great size and 
beauty. As a minister, Mr Campbell appears to have been laborious. 
" He often travelled," says his descendant, " to Mull, Morven, and • 
Ardnamurchan, in order to preach the" gospel of salvation to 
the inhabitants of these remote parts of the country." *^ Next to 
his professional studies, his chief delight were the mathematics 
and astronomy, though comparatively few of the many manuscripts 
which he left at his death, are now to be found."* 

* *' I saw,** adds Mr Gregorson, '•* an essay, in the haifdwriting of Mr Campbell, 
* On the Being and Attributes of God ;* the argument seeming to be the same as 
that employed by Dr Clarke, though written before Dr Clarke's was published. This 
enay was lent many years ago to a friend now deceawd. It has never heen return* 
ed. Mr Campbell corresponded in Latin with Sir Isaac Newton. Tlie letters 
were taken away from his papers before they came to my possession ; but the late 
Mr Macdougall of Gallanacb, Mr Campbell of Achlian, grandson to Mr Colin* 
Campbell, and the late Rev. Mr M^Micol, minister of Lismore, frequently told me diey 
had seen a number of these letters. I believe many of them were burnt through care- 
lessness, when the papers of the family were removed on the sale of Achnaba. The 
annexed list of papers will show some of Mr CampbelPs literary and scientific corre- 
spondents. Some of the papers I eave to Principal Baird, and they were perused by 
him, Dr Lee, and Professors LesUe and Wallace with much interest. I may state 
that some of Mr CampbelFs correspondents write to him, that, * if it were not for 
his viciotu mcdetttf, he might publish what would make them ashamed of their poor 
productions.** 

" Parcels of letters and of papers belonging to the late Rev. Colin Campbell : 
]. Eight letters from A. Pitcairn, physician in Edinburgh, relative to the scientific 
and ma&ematical publications of the day. One of these letters incloses a MSS. by 
a Mr Campbell, advocate, Edinburgh ; arguing the descent of the British nations 
from the Gauls, from the identity of language. 2. Letter supposed from Dr Gilbert 
Burnet, Bishop of Salisbury. 3. Letters from Professor Simson of Glasgow Univer- 
sity. 4. Letter from Colin M'Laurin,— one of them containing an esssy, ** De Viri. 
bus, &c. 5. Letters from Edward Llhyd. 6. LetteTfromDrCheyne,&c 7. Letter 
from Donald Campbell, son of Mr Colin : Solution of a problem, in the handwriting 
of Mr Colin ; Letter from Lord Murray requesting Mr Campbell to calculate the 
nativity of a remarkable child born in Holland. 8. Paper On the Immortality of the 
Soul ; to which is stitched a disquisition ^* On Meteors i" on '* the Lawfullness of 
Episcopacy ;** " Demonstration of Existence of God ;** *' Theological Treatise on our 
Knowledge,** &c. 9. Scientific papers : on Dialling, Problems, &c 10. A parch- 
ment bound volume of tables and problems, and containing a variety of papers. 



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ARDCHATTAN. 489 

One of Mr Campbeirs sods, Mr Gregorson states, inherited his 
father's taste for mathematical investigations, and was offered the 
chair of Mathematics in one of the English universities, which he 
declined, preferring to pass his days in the retirement of his na« 
live country.* 

In the family burial-ground at Ardchattan a monumental stone 
is erected over the remains of the father of Mr Campbell. The 
inscription is in Latin, and is understood to have been written by 
his son. It is now nearly obliterated, but is as follows : — Around 
the margin of the monument, 

HIC • JACET . PATRICIUS . CAMPBELL • DE . INVERZELDIES . QVt 

OBIIT . VEG . PRIM . DIE . MARTIS . ANNO • DOM . 1678 

ANNO . JET . 86. 

In the centre, and placed betwixt emblematical representations of 
our frail mortality above, and the family armorial bearings below, 
the inscription runs thus : 

Vir probus bic situs est, cautus, proridus, per bonestus, 

Judicio claro promptus et ingenio. In apothymatibus 

Communis sermo fluebat 

Facta suis dictis consona semper erant 

Prole, parente, toro, rebus, yirtute, senecta, 

Justitisi et mentis, Uude, beatus obiit. 

There is no stone to mark the place where Mr CampbelKs own 
remains were laid. 

among wbich are a small MSS. against Popery, copy of a letter to Leibnits. 
Mr Gregorson mentions other papers, in the communication with which he fa- 
▼oured me, and adds, ** These are not the ooe-balf of the papers left by Mr Colin 
Campbell and in my possession ; but the rest are in great confusion ; many were 
loftt and others burnt before the above came into my possession. Many were ab- 
stracted, and among these were the letters from Sir Isaac Newton written in Latin. 
A great many letters fiom the Gregorys of Aberdeen and Cambridge, which are 
now in the hands of Mr Gregory of Kdinburgh, throw light on Mr Campbeirs ardent 
pursuit of knowledge, and prove bis extensive acquaintance with science.*' 

In the third volume of tlie Transactions of the Antiquarians of Scotland are pub- 
fished three letters from Professor Gregorie of St Andrews, afterwards of Edinburgh, 
to Mr Campbell, dated in 1672 and 1673, containing solutions, written in Latin, of 
problems sent to the Professor by Mr Campbell, and in which the Professor speaks 
of Mr Campbell in terms of high respect. The letters are accompanied with notes 
by Professor Wallace. In the same volume of the Transactions, there appears an- 
other letter from Mr Murray, minister of Comrie, to Mr Campbell, dated 2d July 
1717, giving an account of the escape of Rob Roy after his apprehension by the 
Duke of Athole. 

* Contemporary with Mr Colin Campbell was the Rev. Donald or Daniel Camp- 
bell, minister of Kilmichael.Glassary, in Argylesbire, an able and devoted Christian 
minister. This excellent man published a valuable treatise ** On the Lord^ Sup« 
per,** wbich is now exceedingly scarce, but which well deserves to be republished.- 
To the volume is prefixed Latin verses by Mr Colin Campbell. 



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490 ARGYLESHIRE. 

Daniel Corrie^ late Bishop of Madras. — This truly apostolical 
man, whose name is associated with the progress of ChristiaDity 
in India, and whose memory will long be regarded there and 
wherever he was known with love and veneration, was a native of 
this parish, though his ancestors resided in Dumfries-shire. His 
father, w.hen a student of theology, was appointed parochial school- 
master of Ardchattan, and married more than sixty years ago a 
respectable young woman of the parish of the name of Mac Nab, 
by whom he had a family, Daniel being the eldest My inform* 
ants, some of whom were Mr Corrie's scholars, think that Daniel, 
or, as they named him, Donald, was between six and seven years of 
age when the father was induced to leave this place, imd to settle in 
England. He there obtained ordination, and a living in the Eng- 
lish church. While at the University of Cambridge the son 
gave indications of no ordinary piety and talents, and was appointed 
a chaplain in the East India Company's establishment in the pre- 
sidency of Bengal, the duties of which office he discharged with 
singular fidelity, zeal, and success* Corrie was the friend of 
Brown and Buchanan, and Henry Marty n, of Bishops Middle- 
ton, Heber, and Turner, and of the other devoted men whose 
lives and labours in the east shed such a lustre on our sister church, 
and, after having long *^ borne the burden and heat of the day," 
be was, to the credit of all concerned, raised from being Arch- 
deacon of Calcutta to the see of Madras. That high station he 
was permitted to adorn but for a short period, having, soon after 
his consecration, been released from all his labours, and called to 
the enjoyment of that rest which remaineth to the people of God. 

General Campbell of l40cknell established strong claims to ho- 
nourable notice in any enumeration of the eminent characters con- 
nected with this parish. In very early life he succeeded his uncle. 
Sir Duncan Campbell, Knight, seventh in succession of the Loch- 
nell family, a gentleman highly and deservedly esteemed in his 
day, and who long represented in Parliament the county of Ar- 
gyle. After finishing his education, the General, then Mr Camp- 
bell, entered the army, and received, when an officer in the Guards, 
about the year 1793, letters of service for raising a Highland re- 
giment, which he soon completed, a goodly proportion of the men 
being from his own estates. In command of his regiment, now 
numbered the 91st or Argyleshire, he served at the Cape of Good 
Hope ; and on his return to Britain was appointed to the com-* 



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AIlDCHATTAN. 491 

hiand of a district in Ireland. On retiring from active military 
duties, with the rank of Major- General, he sat in two successive 
Parliaments for the burghs of Inverary, Ayr, &c., and for twenty 
years represented the Presbytery of Lorn as their Ruling-elder in 
the General Assembly. The latter years of his life were passed 
by the General at Lochnell- house in this parish; and it can be 
stated with all the conBdence of truth, that he and his lady prov- 
ed, pre-eminently, blessings to this part of the country. Digtin- 
guished for urbanity of manners, they were each equally distin- 
guished for Christian benevolence of heart, and their presence 
served to elevate the tone and character of society among us. 
They were the warm friends of education among their own people 
and elsewhere, and the munificent supporters of those institutions 
which have for their objects the amelioration of the moral and re- 
ligious condition of our race. Esteemed and lamented, General 
Campbell died at Edinburgh a. d. 1837, in the 75th year of his 
age.* 

Thomas Babington Macaulay, M. P. for Edinburgh, will be 
deemed by Highlanders at least, who are said to trace blood re- 
lationships to sixteenth cousins, to be not very remotely connected 
with this parish. His grandmother, the daughter of Mr Camp- 
bell of Inveresragan, in our close vicinity, married the Rev. John 
Macaulay, minister of Lismore and Appin, to which parish he 
was translated from South Uist in 1755. From Lismore, Mr 
Macaulay was, in 1765, translated to Inverary, and afterwards, 
he left Inverary for the parish of Cardross. The properly of In- 
veresragan, which consists only of two farms, was afterwards dis- 
posed of to the proprietor of Ardchattan, otherwise it is believed 
the family of the Rev. Mr Macaulay being the nearest heirs would 
have succeeded to the inheritance. 

James, the last of the Maclntyres of Glenoe, who resided in 

* The miliury profession appears to have for ages possessed powerful attractions 
for our youDg gentlemen ; and it is a singular fact, that there were, a few years 
ago, three general officers, each having a regiment, who were connected with the 
parish. These were. General Alexander Campbell of Monzie and Inverawe, Co- 
lonel of the 32d Foot; General Duncan Campbell of Lochnell, Colonel of the 9Ut 
Foot; and Lieutenant- General Sir Colquhoun Grant, (the son of one of my prede- 
cessors,) who succeeded His Royal Highness the Duke of Cumberland, now King 
of Hanover, as Colonel of the 1 5th Hussars, and who was by competent judges con- 
sidered one of our ablest and most gallant cavalry officers. It may be mentioned 
also, that Lieutenant- General Sir Ilobcrt MacFarlane, Colonel of the 89th Foot, 
passed some of his youthful days here, when he resided with bis uncle, the late Mr 
Campbell of Ardchattan. 



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492 ARGYLESHIRE. 

that valley, was a man of much acuteoess, intelligence, and talent 
His knowledge of the Gaelic language was extensive and accurate, 
and he was engaged^ in conjunction with the Rev. Dr Smilh of 
Campbelton, Dr Donald Smith, bis brother, the Rev. Mr Gamp, 
bell of Kilfinichen in Mull, and other learned Celtic scholars, io 
preparing a dictionary of that language, which, it is to be regret- 
ted, they did not complete and publish, Mr Maclntyre, who died 
about fifty years ago, had a poetical talent, and composed some 
good Gaelic songs, which are still favourites with our amateurs in 
that particular department.* 

Land-owners, — The. parish is divided among six heritors,f pay- 
ing parish rates, and all are of the name Campbell. Arranged in 
the order of their valued rents these are. 

Sir Dancan Campbell of Etarcaldine and G tenure, Bart. 

The Marquis of Breadalbanc, 

Archibald Campbell^ Esq. of Lochnell, 

Robert Campbell, Esq. of Ardchattan, 

Alexander Campbell, Esq. of Monzie and Inverawe, 

Donald Campbell, Esq. of Baleveolan, 

Mr Macdonald, proprietor of the farm of Dalness, claims ex- 
emption from public burdens^ on tfie ground of his being heredi- 
tary keeper of the royal forest 'Mr Campbell of Baleveolati is a 
minor. The proprietors of the Lochnell estates have been connected 
with the parish during a longer period than any of our other land- 
holders. They are descended from Colin, third Earl of Argyle, 
and have uniformly sustained a high character for patriotism and 
worth. About the year 1594) James VL issued a commission to 
the then Earl of Argyle to attack Huntly and the other insui^nt 
Popish Lords. They met at Glenlivat, Argyle having a force of 
10,000 men under his command. The Highlanders, who were 

• But our best poet, in laur times at least, was James Shav, better known as 
Loobnell's bard. Shaw was quite illiterate, and, like many votaries of the lyrie muse, 
thoughtless and improvident to a very culpable degree. But his natural powers 
were of a high order, his imagination was lively, and his kindlier feelings strongi 
though, as a satirist, it was no enviable position for any one to have incurred bis re- 
sentment. His songs and other verses would, if published, form a moderately sized 
volume, and many of them have already found their way into published coUections 
of Gaelic poetry. Shaw died about twenty years ago. His talents, if cultivated, 
could not have fiiiled to obuin for him consideration, and had his deportment bees 
correct, he might have enjoyed independence, and lived in comfort. But his irregular 
habits lost him the favour of those who were able and disposed to befriend him, left 
him an impoverished and degraded object, and brought him at last to an untimelv grave. 

f There are now seven heritors, the property of Glenure having reeentfy been 
purchased by Sir Duncan Cameron of Fassfern, Bart ; and BarcaJdine by IX C 
Cameron, Esq. of Foxhall, (1848.) ' 

4 



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ARDCHATTAN. 



493 



unaccustomed to artillery, became panic struck when some pieces 
of ordnance were brought against them, and fled, leaving Argyle, 
then only eighteen years of age, weeping with indignation at the 
disgrace of his clan. In this engagement, Campbell of Lochnell 
and his brother fell in the act of gallantly encouraging their men.*^ 
The present proprietor of Lochnell is the tenth in succession. 

The first of the Barcaldine family was Patrick Campbell, known 
by the sobriquet of Patrick Dubh-beg, it being customary then, 
as it is in the Highlands to some extent still, to designate individuals 
by other than their own names, in order to distinguish them from 
• those of the clan or family bearing the same name. This Pa- 
trick was descended of one of the Glenorchay family* His suc- 
cessors were, 2. John, 3. Alexander,f (Alastair Maclaimic 
PhdriU}iff)^ 4. Patrick (Paruig-dearg)^ 5, John (landuhh)^ 6. Dun- 
can of Glenure and Barcaldine^ 7. Alexander, and 8. Sir Duncan 
Campbell, Bart, of Glenure and Barcaldine. 

The families of Monzie and Inverawe, and of Baleveolan 
claim kindred also with the Marquis of Breadalbane. 

The Ardchattan family are sprung from Campbell of Calder, 
now Lord Cawdor, a branch of the house of Argyle. They pro- 
cured a grant from the Crown of certain church lands attached to 
the ancient priory here. John Campbell, of the house of Calder, 

* When, long after this, it was determined that, for suppressing insurrection and 
maintaining peace In the Highlands, six independent companies should be raised, to be 
stationed in detachments over the country, and placed under the command of the more 
influential Highland proprietors, one of these companies was given to Sir Duncau 
Campbell of Lochnell. This body, when completed, was known by the name of the 
** Black Watch,** the first company being given to the notorious Simon Fraaer, Lord 
Lovat, who always assigned as a sufficient reason for entering into the Rebellion in 
1745^ that his company was taken from him. They were subsequently formed into 
a regiment, now well known as the 42d or Uoyal Highlanders. 

t The above named Alexander accompanied to Caithness his relative John (Ian 
glas), first created E^arl of Caithness, afterwards of Breadalbane. This Earl John 
was a creditor to a large amount of George Sinclair, sixth Earl of Caithness, who 
died without issue, and who, in 1672, executed a disposition ofbis property and titles 
in his favour. He married also George Earl of Caithness* widow, who was Uie third 
daughter of that enlightened patriot and Christian martyr, Archibald, Marquis of 
Argyle, whose great and good qualities her Ladyship seems to have inherited. 
George Sinclair of Keiss, the nearest collateral heir, opposed the claims of the Camp- 
bells^jland was supported in this by his clan. Earl John, therefore, with his follow- 
ers, proceeded to Caithness to take possession of the lands, orders having been issued 
by the privy-council to General Dalzel, notorious for his cruelties towards the Cove- 
nanters, to assist the Campbells witli a part of his Majesty *s troops. They met, and 
foaght near Wick, when victory declared in favour of the Campbells. This event is 
piously recorded by her Ladyship in one of the blank pages of her Bible, an interest- 
ing antique, published by John Bell and Christopher Barker, anno 1663, and still in 
the possession of the Barcaldine family. 

:^ Vide Douglases Peerage under ** Caithness*' and ^* Breadalbane.** 



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494 ARGYLESHIRE. 

is designed ** Etectus Sodorensiset Prior de Ardchattan" in 1558. 
In 1573 he became bishop of the Isles.* 

Parochial Registers. — The registers of births and marriages do 
not commence at an earlier date than 1758, and, owing to the ne- 
gligence of parents and parties concerned, they ha^e since been 
often irregularly kept* The same observation holds as to the poor's 
roll and poor's funds, and no records of the kirk-session were kept 
prior to 1819, These matters are now better attended to. 

Antiquities. — Nearly half way betwixt Connell and Shean, and 
a little to the west o( the high road which connects these ferries, 
there is a verdant isolated eminence of some extent, the base of 
which is partially washed by the Atlantic. It is known by the 
name of Dun-maC'Sniachan^ that is, *^ the fortified hill of the son 
of Sniachan," — and is accessible from the east by what would ap- 
pear to be an artificial opening made through the rock* It forms 
one of those vitrified forts which have engaged the attention and 
exercised the ingenuity of antiquarians, and, in regard to the 
vitrification of which, the most plausible theory seems to be, that 
it was occasioned by beacon fires lighted there to warn the inhabi- 
tants of the approach of an enemy. The remains of a Druidical 
circle can also be traced on the summit of this eminence, — It has 
been conjectured that near this hill stood the famous city of Bere- 
gon or Bereffonium ; and it is held also that Dun-Mac-Sniachaa 
is the identical Selma of the poet Ossian, and the site of the pa- 
lace of the Fingallian dynasty. Without presuming to dogmatise 
on a subject on which a difference of opinion ought to involve 
nothing heretical, one may be permitted to say that this lo- 
cality may advance claims to the honour in question quite as 
powerful as those of any other in the Highlands. " 5e/mff," (&fl/- 
la'ma\) signifies, in Gaelic, ** the fine view," and certainly a 
nobler and more magnificent prospect than that from the top of 
this hill cannot easily be obtained in any country. The noisy 
Connell, a little to the south, has, with no little verisimilitude, been 
considered as Ossian's " falls of Lora," lara signifying in Gaelic, 
** loud ;" and the adjacent widely extended moss of Achnacree, 

* "^ He dilapidated," says Keitb, in his History of the Scottish Bishops, "^ most 
part of the benefice in favour of his relations." What had been appropriated for 
ages to the support of religion, was thus dishonestly converted into private property, 
a common occurrence at the Reformation in Sootbnd; and a few individuals were 
enriched by that which should, on no principle of justice or of expediency, have be- 
longed to them. These rematks do not, of course, in any degree apply to the present 
respectable proprietor. 

3 



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ARDCHATTAN* 495 

»tudded with ancient cairns, rude Druidical templed, obelisks, and 
other relics of the olden tiilne, has aptly enough been regarded as 
the celebrated " plains of Lora,"* 

Ardckattan Priory will always beregarded by the ecclesiastical an- 
tiquarian as an interesting object, serving, like other buildings of the 
same description, to show the vicissitudes of human affairs, and the 
instability of human institutions. This once celebrated monastic es« 
tablishment is now little better than an ivy-mantled ruin ; and the 
roots of ash and plain trees, which grow profusely on its fragments, 
and which act like so many wedges in separating its component parts, 
must hasten the time when all that remains of it will be levelled 
with the dust. It was founded in 1231, by Duncan M'Coull, sup- 
posed ancestor of the Lords of Lorn ; and belonged to the order 
of Vallis CauKumj a reform of the Cistertians, and the strictest of 
that class of Monks which followed the rules of St Benedict. It 
appears that, by their constitution, none of the inmates^ excepting 
the Prior and Procurator, was permitted, on any pretence, to go 
beyond the precincts of the monastery. The entrance to the pri^ 
ory was from the west, but dilapidated as ttie whole now is, a cor* 
rect judgment can scarcely be formed of the architectural design 
and details, and there are no ancient drawings from which these 
may be learned. The site of the church, or chapel of the order 
can still be distinctly traced. It was 66 feet in length by 28 
feet in breadth within walls ; but the basis of the pillars which 
supported the arches of the aisles on each side of the middle 
avenue, if these at all exist, as it is likely they may, are buried be- 
neath the rubbish. The transept was beyond this, a part of its 
wall being pretty entire, while, at the centre of the cross, and over 
the main entrance to the church from the west, a square tower 
was erected, the double walls at that entrance being 9 feet in 
thickness. The cloisters, the arched outward entrance to which 
is still visible, though built up, were situated to the norths and 
from these there was a private door to the church about the middle 

* The names of localities in this neighbourhood may also be considered corroborative 
of what has thus been alleged : the name of a bay beyond Lochncll House* for in- 
stance, is Camua.NMuiif i. e, <* the bay of Nathos ;'* this Nathos being the son of Us« 
noth, and nephew to Cuchullin, regent of Ireland, celebrated in Ossian's poem of 
** Darthula.*' The name of one of the fiirms in Muckairn is CaHr-NiUhuU,'* t. e. ** the 
wood or forest of Nathos.*^ In Loch Etive, above Bunawe, we have ElfanUuneach^ 
airiy that is, " the island of Usnoth ;** and beyond Dalness, Grianan DearduU, " the 
little plain of Darthula,** while there is a rising ground near Barcaldine Castle, named 
Tom-Otsiart^ **^ the hill of 0»ian,** the tradition bearing that this was a favourite seat 
of the aged bard. 



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496 ARGVLESHIRB. 

of its north wall. At the south-east corner of the church, a taste- 
ful arch in the wall still remains, divided into three compartments, 
two of which seemed as if intended for images or relics. Part of 
the outside tracery of this arch is also yet entire ; and, at its lower 
extremity on the west side, is to be seen one of those grotesque 
figures of animals which were so common on the ornamental works 
of such buildings. The prior's residence was situated to the 
south-west of the monastery, and, after having been fitted up and 
undergone certain necessary changes, has long been, as it still is, 
the dwelling-house of the proprietor. Its walls are very massive, 
the gables being seven feet in thickness, including the scarce- 
ments, which reach to the first floor, and five feet in thickness 
above that. In a recess on the first floor there is a singular apart- 
ment, with a fine groined roof, called the Friar's closet* Behind 
the Prior's house there was a court, extending fifty feet westwards 
from the principal entrance to the monastery ; and the garden, 
which lay to the north, and is now part of an inclosed field, may 
still be distinguished by its black loam when the ground is turn- 
ed up by the plough. The cemetery of the order lay to the south 
of the church, but the more honoured ef the dead appear to have 
been interred within the walls. Indeed, human bones and other 
sepulchral remains have, at no distant period, been dug up in the 
present garden and where the offices are erected ; for when burial 
ground within the cemetery could not be obtained, it was, under 
the reign of Romanism, superstitiously deemed a privilege that 
the dead should be laid as near as possible to their churches and 
convents. It is said that a part of the building of the monastery 
was destroyed some time before the restoration : at all events 
there is no ground for alleging that our reformers, to whose ruth- 
lessness it is deemed convenient to ascribe the demolition of the 
ancient ecclesiastical buildings, ever displaced a single stone here. 
A portioA of the materials of the chapel appear to have been em- 
ployed, -appropriately enough, by the resident heritors, more than 
a century ago, in erecting the parish church : other portions were 
used for building fences and out-houses, the carved freestone 
having, at the same time, been discovered by house-maids to be, in 
a pounded state, admirably suited for their purposes when clean- 
ing their floors and passages. The once handsome and richly 
arched outer doorway has in this manner been rudely and 
thoughtlessly mutilated. 

No precise information can be obtained of the revenues of this 



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ARDCHATTAN. 497 

priorate, though there are reasons for believing that they were 
considerable. The present family were, at one time, titulars of 
theteinds, and held the patronage of several neighbouring parishes; 
those patronages have long since been disposed of. If any valu- 
able historical records or other manuscripts existed here of old, 
they have all perished. In the burial ground, which still continues 
to be used for that purpose, there are several ancient tombstones, 
composed chiefly of blue slate. Most of these have no inscrip- 
tions, but bear the effigies of monks attired in the habits of their 
order, and represented in a devotional attitude. But there are 
others which do bear inscriptions, though it be no easy matter to 
decypher some of them. Of these, there is one about the centre 
of the church, which has been broken longitudinally, and on which 
the following letters appear in the old Saxon characters: — 

*< FUNALLUS SOMHERLE MACDOUGALLUS, PRIOR DB' ARDCHAT- 
TAN Mccccc.'' It was alleged that the inscription on this 
stone was written in the Gaelic language, — ^an allegation which is 
clearly groundless ; nor was it supposed that any thing had been 
cut out on its lower side, — but it has recently been discovered that 
it bears, on that side, representations of wild beasts well executed 
and preserved. It would seem that what remains is but a part of 
the original monument, and that it was intended to be placed in 
an upright position, and probably was so at first. At the south- 
east corner of the church, there is a flat stone, on which the fol- 
lowing inscription is finely cut : — *^ Hic jacet venerandus bt 

EOREGIUS VIR RODERICUS AlEXANDRI, ReCTOR QUONDAM 

FuNNANNi iNSULiE, Qvi OBiiT Anno Dom I ," the date 

not mentioned. The inscription was probably finished before the 
Rector's death, the blanks to be supplied after his interment, and 
this was omitted to be done. Under this monument there is a 
stone coffin. 

The inscription on another tombstone, beyond the church, to the 
south, is written in a character whicli cannot be decyphered : it is 
very ancient: — but the most interesting monument in the cemetery, 
and a finer is not often to be met with, is one which was discover- 
ed, several years ago, under a mass of rubbish, and is situat- 
ed vrithin the church, near the east end of its northern wall. 
The quality of the stone of which the monument is composed is 
excellent, and the representations of two dignified ecclesiastics in 
the monastic costume, and of a warrior in full coat of mail, cut out 
in separate niches on its lower section, and of two weeping nun^, 

ARGYLE. I i 

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498 ARGYLESHIRE# 

between a human skeleton, in- similar compartments on its upper 
section, together with the entire ornamental drapery, are all eze^- 
cuted with much skill and taste* This monument is also placed 
over a stone cofBn. The inscription on its sides and margin is in 
the old Irish characters, and, in so far as it can now be traced, is as 

follows : — " HlC JACENT NATI SoMERLEDI MaCDOUGALL DuNCA- 
KUS £T DUGALLUS, HUJUS MONASTERII SUCCESSIVE PRIORESy 
UNA CUM EORUNDEM PATRE, MATRE, ET FRATRB AlANO, QUO- 
rum dugallus hujus monumenti fabricator, obiit anno 
Domini mcccccii/' 

Church of BaUmaodan, — About ten minutes^ walk from the pri* 
ory, and on the brow of the hill behind it, stand the remains of 
this old parish church ; its site, and particularly an adjoining 
knoll, commanding a view which will amply compensate the toil of 
the ascent Indeed, one striking peculiarity of the West High* 
lands is the diversified character of the scenery, the doubling of 
every headland, the ascent of every eminence, and almost every 
curvature on the road presenting a new picture to the traveller. 
Tradition will have it that the church of Bal-maodan is more an* 
cient than the priory, but tradition is, probably, in this instance not 
correct. It was a very plain building, 54 feet in length, and 22 
feet in breadth, within walls i having two small square recesses at 
the east end, and only two windows, one in each gable, but so 
narrow as to admit only a very dim light. The area of the church, 
and a piece of ground around it, is still used as a burial ground, 
though, from some unaccountable neglect, it has been long unen- 
closed. Modan's* well is in the close vicinity, at the upper end 
of a wild and wooded ravine. 

Kilcolmkilly that is, ^^ the church dedicated to Columba,'' better 
known by its contracted name of Kiel, is situated in the lower end 
of the parish, and a little to the northward of Craignook. The 
vestiges of this building are all that now remain, though the small 
plot of burial-ground around it continues to be used by a few fa- 

* It is not unlikely that this Modan was the same who, in 522, was elected abbot or 
bishop of Kelso, and who was a person of profound piety and derotioual habits. He 
is said to have spent five or six hours of every day in mMlitation and prayer. Ardent 
in the cauf e of the Redeemer, he made frequent incursions into the remoter parts of 
the country, especially to the banks of the Forth and Clyde, preaching with mucb 
elotiuence. He retired at times to a lonely locality near Ounbarton, then Aldnyd, 
where he continued in medtution 90 or 40 days, and where he spent the last of bis 
days. A church was dedicated to him at Roseneath, and he was what wau called 
patron or tutelar saint of tlie high church of Stirling. His name is said to be still 
traditionally remembered about Dunbarton and Falkirk -^^See Mortonls Monastk 
Annak of Teviotdale. 



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ARDCHATTAN. 499 

milies as a place of intermeDU It is ^contiguous to DuQ-mac< 
Suiachan, or the ancient Selma ; but, with the exception of the 
extensive and delightful view from it, there is nothing now about 
it deserving of particular notice. 

It is obvious to remark, that our remote ancestors were more 
zealous and successful in planting churches in the Highlands than 
their successors, though they possess an incomparably purer faith* 
These churches and chapels appear to have been in the ratio of 
more than two to one to those of the present day, while the po- 
pulation is much greater. 

Barcaldine Castle. — This baronial residence is the only remnant 
of feudal times among us ; nor has it much to boast of either as 
regards its design or its architecture. It was built in the latter 
part of the fifteenth century by Sir Duncan Campbell, Knight of 
Glenorchy {Dannachadh dubhy) who is said to have built, or at 
least to have been the possessor, of seven castles, and is therefore 
distinguished by the cognomen of '^ Duncan of the seven castles^ 
{Dannachadh nan seachd CaisteiL) Unlike the other castles in 
the country, which are built on rocks on the margin of our seas or 
inland lakes, Barcaldine Castle stands on a rising ground a short 
distance from the sea, on the neck of land which divides Loch 
Creran from the bay of Ardmucknish, and close by the road which 
leads from Shian Ferry to Connell. The family removed from 
Barcaldine to the present mansion-house more than a century ago, 
and the castle has in consequence been allowed to fall into decay. 
<^ But the views from it and near it," says Dr MacCulloch, '^ are 
magnificent, and it is, with all its deformity, an important and in- 
teresting object in the picture. The scenery here,'' (betwixt Connell 
and Shian,) ** is beautiful ; but everything Is beautiful between 
these two ferries. These are but five miles, but it is a day's jour- 
ney for a wise man. The castle is the only one of this particular 
style which I have seen in the remote Highlands; but, with its 
freshness and its living trees, it carries us back to the habits of 
past times with more vividness than most of those buildings that 
I have met with.*' 

Druidical temples or circles, formed of large granite stones 
placed on end, are found on plains in all parts of the parish, and 
in different states of entireness. In some of these there are two 
or more concentric circles, with an entrance, the stones on each 
side of which are of larger dimensions ; but in many instances the 
stones have been removed to build houses or fences, and the circle 



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500 AROYLESHIRE. 

consequently can be less -distinctly traced. A little to the west of 
the farm*house of Achnacreebeg, there are two small stone circles 
of unequal diameter ; and there are not wanting grounds for sup- 
posing that these were enclosed within a larger circle, the stones 
of which have been removed. On the top of the stones composing 
the smaller circles, large slabs of granite were laid ; and the cause 
of wonder is, how masses so large could, without the aid of machinery, 
be conveyed to the places where they now are, and raised up so 
as to be laid over the stones which form the circles. They pro* 
bably present the remains of Druidical superstition. There are 
also a number of cairns, or artificial collections of stones of various 
sizes, throughout the parish. The largest perhaps in the country 
is in the moss of Achnacree. It was enclosed, more than twenty 
years ago, by General Campbell, and trees have been planted 
around it. Beside it, and within the enclosure, there seem to have 
been two or more Druidical circles, composed of very large stones. 
Stone coffins, as they have been called, are still occasionally found, 
and in situations where no one would expect to meet with them. 
On the farm of Kiel, near Lochnell House, a coffin of this kind 
was lately discovered, some feet below the surface of gravel which 
formed the subsoil of a moss at least four feet in depth. It con- 
tained a rude urn, in which were human bones, and which, though 
they probably lay there for more than a thousand years, were won- 
derfully entire, and resisted the influence of the atmosphere when 
es^posed to it Similar urns have been found in tumuli in other 
places of the same district, one in particular, near to the Loch- 
nell school-house. Among the calcined bones in this urn, some* 
thing was observed of a lighter colour than the other substances 
enclosed. This turned out to be a flint arrow-head, with which, 
probably, the individual whose remains were deposited in the urn 
had been transfixed. The arrow-head is now in the possession of 
Professor Pillans of Edinbargh. Ancient coins have likewise been 
found where few would think of searching for them. In the year 
1829, a party were digging a grave in the burial-ground at Bal* 
maddao, it being no uncommon thing here, when such parties 
come from a distance, that the grave is not prepared till they come 
with tl^ interment. When the diggers had reached a depth of 
more than four feet below the surface, they observed several shin- 
ing substances at their feet, which some said were shells, and 
others maintained to be old buttons, but which turned out to be 
small silver coins of the reign of Edward, and presenting on the 



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ARDCHATTAN. 



501 



reverse the names, London, Cambridge, Oxford, all in good pre- 
servation. What has since become of them has not been ascertain « 
ed. — Among the wilds of Glenetive, near the river, and on the farm 
of Invereolan, there is a large upright stone, to which cattle and their 
keepers often resort, finding that here they can have ^^ in cold a shel- 
ter, and in heat a shade/' To this place, in the year 1830, a shep- 
herd betook himself; and while the tempest was spending its fury 
around him, he thought of amusing himself and beguiling the time 
by striking the point of the walking-stick which he held in bis hand 
in the ground beside him. To his surprise, he threw up something 
which proved to be a silver coin ; and on searching with some care, 
he found about thirty others. These coins were also of the reign 
of Edward, and similar to those picked up at Balmaddan. Some 
of them were given to the late Mr MacDonald of Dalness, and 
others were obligingly offered to the acceptance of the parish mi« 
nister. It is not unlikely that they were deposited in the place 
where they were found, before the owner set out on some predatory 
excursion, from which be never returned. 

Modem Buildings, — The most extensive of these is LochueU 
House. It was originally built by Sir Duncan Campbell, but ad-« 
ditions were made to it by his successor. General Campbell, on 
which he expended upwards of L. 15,000. It is now a spacious 
and handsome building. — Barcaldine House, embowered in woods, 
is, from its recent alterations and additions, rendered a commodi- 
ous residence. — The House of Inverawe is pleasantly situated on 
the banks of the Awe, and at the base of Ben-cruachan, and is 
surrounded with fine old trees ; but as the family lived in Perth- 
shire, the house and garden here have been less attended to than 
they would had the proprietor been resident. — Drimvuick House, 
the residence of Mr Campbell of Baleveolan, though not large, is 
a comfortable dwelling-house. — The church, opened for Divine 
service in 1836, without any pretensions to elegance, is a common* 
dious place of worship. — There are a few good farm-houses ; and 
where school-bouses have lately been built, there is a manifest im« 
provement on the poor concerns which formerly went by that name. 
III. — Population. 

The population of Ardcbattaii in 1B41 amounted to 1452 
Of these there were males, . 725 

females, . 727* 

The population of Ardchattan in 1831 amounted to 1650 
Of these there were males, .851 

females, . 799 



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&(f2 



ARGYLESHIRE. 



The decrease in the population, as above, may be ascribed, in 
some measure, to the uniting of &rms, especially in the upland 
districts of the parish, where sheep-farming prevails ; and to the 
enlarging of the Marquis of Breadalbane's deer forest in that di- 
rection. The non-residence of our heritors, who, with their fami- 
lies and establishments, resided upon their properties in the parish 
when the former census was taken, contributed to the same result. 
With the exception of two, who pass a few months of the year 
on their properties here, the heritors, for some years back, have 
been non-resident ; a circumstance which operates unfavourably on 
the interests of the parish** The Gaelic language is that which 
prevails, and it is spoken with much purity. Mo^e than nine- 
tenths of the people prefer religious instruction in the Gaelic, 
while a majority can receive such instruction through the medium 
of that language only. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture and Rural Economy. — Although a pastoral rather 
than an agricultural district, the extent of ground in the parish 
cultivated or occasionally in tillage is considerable. Minute accu- 
racy of admeasurement is not attainable, but it is believed the 
amount exceeds rather than falls below 1650 standard imperial 
acres. The soil consists chiefly of a light loam, requiring, from 
its absorbent qualities, frequent manuring, but yielding, when jV 
diciously managed, fair crops of oats and bear, with potatoes, at 
once prolific and of superior quality. It seems desirable that tur- 
nip husbandry, which succeeds well, was more generally intro- 
duced ; but this is scarcely to be expected till the arable ground 
is better enclosed and subdivided than at present* Besides an 
extent of pasture and waste land, which cannot with accuracy be 
ascertained, there are large tracts of moss. It is very problema* 
tical whether, provided means could be obtained, tlie reclaim- 
ing of these dreary tracts would prove a profitable application of 
capital, though it would doubtless greatly improve the appear- 
ance of the country. But there is no great likelihood of the thing 
being attempted. — There are fully 2700 imperial acres under wood, 
seven-eighths of the whole, if not more, consisting of oak coppice, 
which is carefully attended to, and cut at the end of every twenty 
or twenty-one years. The plantations consist of Scottish fir, larch, 

* Colonel Campbell of Ardchattan has reoentty beeome a rating heritor^ with his 
son-iD-law and daughter, Mr and Mrs Popham. 

3 



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ARDCHATTAN. 503 

Spruce, ash, beech, elm, and sycamore, all of which are found to 
thrive well. 

It is not easy to say exactly what is the average rent of arable 
land per acre, because a portion of hill-pasture is usually rented 
along with the arable land, and the whole is estimated, not so 
touch by the extent in acres, as by the number of cows, horses, 
or sheep which the place can support* The tiaaintenance of each 
cow throughout the year may be said to range from L.3 to L«4 ; 
and of each sheep, from 2s. 6d. to Ss. Hd. The value of the larger 
farms is often reckoned by the number of cows ^' with their foU 
loweri^ which the farm will support, understanding by this last 
expression all the calves of the fold till they are a year old, or 
stirks, selling one-half of the males at that age, and retaining the 
young cows, for keeping up the stock, till they are heifers of three 
years old. The cows are disposed of to cattle-dealers, or sent to 
market, generally when seven or eight years of age. With the 
exception of some cows of the Ayrshire breed, kept for supplying 
the dairy, the breed of cattle is the true native or Argyleshire, 
justly admired for their symmetry, their aptitude to fatten, and the 
quality oT their beef, especially after they have been fed for a time 
on the pastures of the south. Great attention is paid to rearing. 
The calves are allowed to suckle their dams, and get, in most 
cases, all the milk, and, for the first winter at least, are supplied 
with the best hay the farm produces, care being taken also that 
they are not stinted as to quantity. The small white Scotch sheep 
have been completely superseded by the black-faced, which are 
found to suit the country and the climate, and to remunerate bet- 
ter than any other kind. The Cheviot breed has been introduced 
only partially ; and in regard to sheep and to cattle, the overstock* 
ing of farms is now felt to have been a great, though it was a pre- 
valent error. The breed of horses has been improved as respects 
size, strength, and action, and hence fewer are required, while the 
work is done sooner and better. 

Bate of Wages. — The usual rate of wages to farm- servants, say 
a good ploughman, is frqm L.10 to L.12 a-year, with their food ; 
or if a house and cow's grass are given to married men, there is a 
proportionate deduction in the money wages. Maid-servants re«* 
ceive from L. 5 to L. 6, according to their qualifications. Shep«- 
herds were formerly allowed to keep a certain number of sheep, 
with one or two cows, on the sheep-walk; but that mode of paying 
them is now being given up, and they get from L. 10 or L.il to 



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504 ARGYLESHIRE. 

L. 13 a-year. Labourers employed only occasioDally a)re paid at 
the rate of Is. 3d. per day in summer, and Is. in winter. Masons^ 
carpenters, and slaters, are paid 2s. 6d. per day, wages being mo- 
dified, of course, by the demand, and the character and ezpertoess 
of the artisan. 

The duration of leases extends, in comparatiyely few instances, 
to nineteen, and varies generally from seven to nine years, — a pe- 
riod too short for effecting any material agricultural improvements. 

Though there are farm-houses within the parish which are sub- 
stantial and commodious, and which thus keep pace with the pro- 
gress of improvement in other respects throughout the kingdom, 
it must be confessed that these form the exception, and do not 
constitute the rule. We have tenants who pay hundreds of pounds 
of annual rent, who yet inhabit very mean houses, and whose farm- 
steadings are entirely in keeping with their residences. Slates of 
the best quality might be had at a cheap rate from the neighbour- 
ing island of Easdale, or from Balicheilish, but these dwellbgs 
still continue to be thatched with straw, — an employment which 
occupies much of the tenant's time, consumes the provender which 
would help to feed his cattle, and add, besides, to the quantum of 
his manure. Such houses are in danger of being laid bare by the 
gales that sweep the country in winter. 

Quarries, — We have no freestone quarries in the {>arish, but 
there is abundance of granite boulders, which, when split and 
dressed, form substantial and beautiful materials for building* 
Lord Breadalbane has opened, and is working successfully a gra- 
nite quarry on his farm of Barrs, on the upper shores of Loch 
Etive, where stones of a large size, of very superior quality, and 
susceptible of a high polish, are obtained. For works in which 
firmness and durability are necessary, finer materials can no where 
be found. 

Mines, — Lead ore has been found on the fisirm of Drimvuick, 
in Glencreran, but no mine has been opened there as on the op- 
posite farm of Mynefield, in the parish of Appin. 

Fisheries. — The salmon-fishing at Bunawe is by much the 
most extensive carried on in or near the parish, though, in so Csir 
as the Awe is concerned, that fishery is connected rather with 
the parish of Innishail. There is also a salmon-fishery at Guala- 
challin, near the upper end of Loch Etive, and another on the 
farm of Dalachellish, near the head of Loch Creran, but these^ 
comparatively, are inconsiderable. 



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ABDCUATTAN. 505' 

Produce. — Tbe average gross amount of raw produce annually 
raised cannot be specified with minute accuracy. It is believed 
the gross rental may, in round numberS) be stated to be L.6600. 
Now, if two rents be added to this, we have L. 19,800, which 
may, perhaps, represent the yearly value of the grain, potatoes, 
hay, wool, pasturage of sheep and cows, fisheries, and thinnings 
of wood throughout the parish. 

Live-Stock. — There are 32,000 sheep in the district, 720 cows 
with their followers, and 250 horses of all ages. 

The number of imperial acres under coppice, which consists of 
oak, ash, birch, mountain ash, &c. may be estimated at 2600 
acres. At each hagg or felling, or, at the end of every twenty or 
twenty*one years, these, valuing the oak bark, after deducting 
charges for manufacturing and freight, at L.4 per ton, the char- 
coal at 10s. per dozen bags, and adding to this the value of the 
unmeasurable timber, may produce the sum of L.9000. 

There is no manufacturing establishment within the bounds, 
nor does any part of the population belong to the manufacturing 
classes. 

It may be mentioned, before concluding this section, that our 
proprietors and principal farmers are members of the Lorn Agricul- 
tural Association, — an institution which, as the name imports, has 
for its objects the encouragement of agriculture, and the improve- 
ment of stock of all description. Premiums are adjudged by this 
association for agricultural improvements, and for the best horses, 
cows, and sheep ; and it may confidently be stated that salutary ef- 
fects have resulted, and are likely still to result, from the spirited 
operations of this institution. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

There is in the parish no market-town, the nearest being Oban, 
which is eight miles distant from the parish church, and separated 
from the district of Benderloch by Loch Etive, which is crossed 
at the ferry of Connell. The post-office is at Lorn Furnace, and 
is designated Bonaw. It is also beyond the bounds of the parish, 
and is cut off from it besides by Loch Etive. The course of the 
Fort William post, however, is through a section of the parish, 
and in this way a considerable portion of the population is tolera- 
bly well accommodated. 

There are no turnpike, roads in the district, nor indeed hitherto 
in any part of Argyleshire. It is due to all concerned to say, that 
tbe county roads and the state of the bridges are well attended to«. 



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506 AtlGYLESHlRE. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The present parish church was opened 
for divine service in 1836. A new church having previously been 
found to be necessary, it was erected about three miles from the 
manse and site of the former building, and is now nearer, by that 
distance, to the body of the parishioners, though, in a parish so ex- 
tensive, some of the people must necessarily be inconveniently si* 
tuated in reference to the means of grace. The church may ac-* 
commodate 430 sitters, and is a commodious and well-finished 
place of worship. The sittings are all free, and are divided among 
the heritors in the ratio of their valued rents. The application of 
this law, if it be a law, has been found practically unsuitable, at 
least here, the upper districts of the parish being very thinly peo- 
pled, while the lower comparatively are the reverse. Hence some 
of the heritors have had ten times more church room allocated to 
them than the people on their lands can occupy, while others, on 
the contrary, have a great deal less adjudged to them than the 
population requires. 

Ministers of the Parish. — Some notices of Mr Colin Campbell, 
minister of the united parish of Ardchattan and Muckairn, or, as 
there sometimes designated, Balvaodan and Kilespickerrell, have 
already been given. The names of the incumbents from the Re- 
formation till Mr Campbell's appointment cannot be ascertained, 
Mr Campbell was succeeded, in 1731, by Mr Archibald Banna* 
tyne. Mr James Stevenson succeeded Mr Bannatyne in Fe* 
bruary 1782, and departed this life September 175]. The Rev. 
Ludovick Grant was admitted on the 29th day of April 1756, 
and departed this life in November 1795. The Rev. George 
Campbell was admitted the minister of the united parish, Sep* 
tember 1796, and died at Long Ashton^ near Bristol, whither he 
had gone for the recovery of his health, January 1817. The 
Rev. Hugh Eraser was admitted October 1817, and demitted the 
charge, along with nearly 500 other ministers, in consequence of 
the control claimed by the civil courts in matters spiritual, June 
1843. 

The manse of Ardchattan, which is pleasantly situated on the 
northern margin of Loch Etive, was built in 1772. It received a 
large addition in 1814, besides partial repairs since that time, and 
is now, in point of accommodation, not surpassed by any in this part 
of the country ; the offices attached are equally commodious. In 
commendation of the glebe, much cannot be said. The pasture 
(or milch cows is inferior in quality, and though considerable 



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ARDCUATTAN. 507 

sums have been expended in improving the patch of arable ground^ 
it is a physical impossibility to render it valuable. 

The stipend, as modified in 1816, amounts, as since paid by the 
heritors, to 253 bolls, 1 peck, f ths of a lippie of meal ; 9 bolts of 
barley, estimated by the Linlithgow measure ; 6 stones of cheese, 
and L.37, 9s« lOd. of money, including L. 8, 6s. 8d* for commu- 
nion elements. The patronage of the church belongs to Camp- 
bell of Lochnell. The number of communicants is above 300. 
Till the late disruption there were not above ten Dissenters from 
the Established Church throughout the whole parish. 

A parish missionary association was established nearly twenty 
years ago, when there were several resident heritors, and the an- 
nual contributions amounted to between L.30 and L.85 a year. 
That association has since merged into the collections in support 
of the five Assembly's schemes for the spread of the gospel at 
home and abroad ; but owing to the absence of the heritors, and 
the increased poverty of the people, the yearly sum collected now 
does not amount to one-half of that sum. What is thus collected 
is, of course, irrespective of the ordinary Sabbath-day collections, 
which, on an average of the three last years, 1840, 1841, 1842, 
amounted to L.13, 18s. A place of worship in connection with 
the Free Church of Scotland is now being built about sin miles 
distant from the parish church, and is nearly roofed in. When 
completed, it will accommodate 354 sitters. 

Education. — There are three schools in the parish, one the pa- 
rochial, and the other two on the scheme of the General Assem- 
bly. There is also a sewing mistress, who has a small salary 
from the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. The 
benefits of education are generally appreciated by the people, and 
the consequence is, that there is a desire to avail themselves of 
these, since the . Assembly's scheme was set on foot, to an extent 
previously unknown. The efiects on their conduct and morals 
are decidedly beneficial. The salary of the parochial teacher is 
the minimum^ together with L. 4, 3s. 4d. interest of mortified 
money, payable by Mr Campbell of Ardchattan. The upper 
district of the parish is unfavourably situate in reference to 
education, from the distance at which the comparatively few 
families there reside from one another. By the late Dr M^In- 
tyre, surgeon, 53d Regiment, who bequeathed several sums for 
promoting benevolent objects, L.200 were appropriated, the 
interest of which was to be laid out in educating the poorer 



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508 ARGYLESaiRB. 

children in " the Mission of the Glens/' This money could 
not be laid out in the manner specified by that excellent man, 
in a codicil to his latter will, and the amount, after deducting' 
legacy duty and other charges, is, meanwhile, ve&ted in herita- 
ble security. The end contemplated by Dr M^Intyre will pro- 
bably be best attained by setting up an ambulatory school in the 
district 

Poor and Parochial FunA.— The number of persons on the 
poor's roll at present is 49, who receive at the half-yearly distribu- 
tion of the funds from 10s. to L.1, 5s. per annum,^-a sum now very 
inadequate to their necessities, even though aid is given occasionally 
to the more necessitous during the intervals between each distri- 
bution. Till within the last eight or ten years, when five out of 
seven heritors might be regarded as resident, the church collec- 
tions were not only sufficient, but more than sufficient, for the 
supply of the wants of the parish poor. This arose, not so much 
from the amount of the church collections, though that was com- 
paratively liberal, as from the kindly attentions of the landholders 
and their families to the poor on their properties, with whose cir- 
cumstances they made themselves minutely acquainted, and whose 
necessities they failed not to relieve. The inadequacy of the 
church collections has rendered voluntary contributions on the part 
of the heritors more than ever necessary of late years; and, how- 
ever much to be deprecated, will, in all probability, soon render 
compulsory assessments indispensable. This presents a greatly 
altered state of affairs from what recently existed, when, besides 
supplying the wants of the indigent, a sum amounting to L.120 
was accumulated under the management of the kirk-session, and 
which is now laid out at interest for the payment of the parish 
beadle and precentor, that the parish collections might, without 
these deductions, be divided among the poor. 

Inns. — There are five inns, or houses for the retail of ardent 
spirits in the parish. With one exception, all these are ferry- 
houses; and, on this ground, it has been alleged that spirits 
should be sold in them. The distance between two of these fer- 
ries, Connell and Shean, is less than five miles; and, on each 
side of these ferries, there are inns ; yet, a house where whisky 
is retailed invites the traveller and the neighbouring population 
about midway. The effects of all this on the morals and the 
means of the community are the reverse of beneficial* 



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MUCKAIRNr 509 

Fuel — The fu^l commonly used is peats, supplemented in 
some parts by brushwood. By the higher classes, coals are 
used. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Little remains to be stated under this head additional to what 
has already been noticed. Though a good deal has been done, 
much remains still to be done, in the way of opening the internal 
communication. In particular, roads are required on both sides 
of Loch«etive, and to be carried on from the bead of that arm of the 
sea to King's House, to unite there with the great road from Fort- 
William to Stirling and Edinburgh. Another line is much wanted 
along the south side of Loch-creran, already formed partially as 
far as Crigan ferry, that road to be connected also with the 
great Edinburgh line. — The law of entail has operated unfavour- 
ably, in so far as relates to the improvement of the country ; and 
though its evils have of late been mitigated, it must continue in 
some measure so to operate. High rents, and still declining 
prices for our staple commodities, press heavily on many among 
us ; and if relief be not obtained by a deduction of rents, or a rise 
in prices, serious consequences may be anticipated. But, let it 
never be forgotten that the master remedy for the thousand ills 
that flesh is heir to is, that all classes of the community be 
brought under the influence of the faith and the hope of the gospel. 



MUCKAIRK, ANNEXED qVQAB CIVILIA TO ARDCHATTAN.* 

(a PARLIAMENTARY CHURCH PARISH, PRESBYTERY OF LORN, 

SYNOD OP ARGYLE.) 

THE REV. LACHLAN MCKENZIE, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography AND Natural History. 
The Statistical Account of the district and Parliamentary 
church of Muckairn, as connected with Ardchattan, may aptly be 
introduced by inserting a description of that district copied from a 
MSS. probably a century and a half old, which was furnished to 
the writer of these notes by the late General Campbell of Loch* 
nell. The name of the writer of the manuscript is not known ; 

* From notes furnished by the Rev. Hugh Fraser, A. M., minister of the Free 
Church, Ardchattan. 



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510 AROYLESHIRE. 

and his derivation of Muckairn^ with some other immaterial re«* 
marks made by him afterwards, mast be received with some grains 
of allowance. But, with these abatements, the account given of 
the locality, its history, and its products, is correct and graphic ; 
and, altogether, the contents of the venerable document are too 
interesting not to obtain a place here. 

^^ The country of Muckarn got its name, as is storied, thus : One 
of our queens of old being long without children, desires the 
public prayers of the Church to Almighty God for obtaining the 
blessing of the fruit of the womb ; and, some time after these 
means were used, having born a son named Evarn or Edgar, in 
testimony of her thankfulness for such a blessing, doted this coun- 
try to the Church, calling it maodh^Edharan, that is, the valley or 
field of Edgar ; whence, through tract of time, it came corruptly 
to be called Meuceam or Mucham^ and to be kirkland. 

<^ It is situated about the middle of Lorn, which is one of, 
if not the largest of the lordships of this kingdom, having one arm 
of the Deucaledonian sea, called Loch Etive, on its north side, 
which divideth it from Benderloch, Appin, Duror, and Glenco ; 
on the east and south-east side, by the water or river of Neaunnt, 
which falleth into Loch Etive near the foot of the river Awe and 
Lochneaunnt, out of which that river Neaunnt floweth. It is 
divided from part of that which is called by a special name the 
division of Argyll, which part cometh up betwixt Lochow and 
Lochneaunnt, till it comes to Lochetive at the foot of both these 
rivers. On the south side, it is limited partly by a rivulet that 
runs into the west end of Lochneaunnt, and partly by hills, till 
the marches of it fall into the water Lonan betwixt Cliffoamacrie 
and Strontvilleir, not far from the east end of Lochnell; and from 
thence, on the west side, by the wood called Gasgan and the wa- 
ter of Lusragan, it is divided from that which is specially called 
Mid Lorn ; so that its length from Neaunnt water to Lusragan 
water is five miles, according to the ordinary estimation, but some 
more than six good metrical miles, of 1000 paces to the mile, and 
five English foot to the pace, and its breadth much about the 
same measure. 

^* This country lleth leaning to the north, whence the soil is not 
altogether so fertile in grain nor the gra'ss so kindly as the rest of 
Mid Lorn marching with it, except in some tenements that lie 
near the shore side ; yet it hath such plenty of grain as not only 

3 



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MUCKAIRiN. 511 

to suffice itself, but also some every year to sell to the neighbour- 
ing glens above it. But its chief increase is in cattle, with which 
it is furnished plentifully of all sorts, cows» horses, sheep, and 
goats, and hath this singular advantage, that every rown or farm 
a part hath woods, moss for fuel, grass, corn, and barley land 
commodiously mixed, so that every singular tenement hath all 
conveniency within itself. The woods, whereof it hath as yet great 
plenty, are oak, birch, and alder, are much impaired, especially 
the oak, which is generally old stocks, so knotty and cross-grained, 
that it is of little use but to shelter cattle in bad weather, and to 
entertain some scores of roes that frequent them* In the lower 
places of the country, are good store of hares, and everywhere nrare 
than is wished of foxes, which can hardly be destroyed for woods 
and so many rocky dens as they have to defend them. There is 
also plenty of badgers or brocks in many places of this country ; 
particularly, there are two places in Sandy Hills so haunted by 
them, that the ground is all undermined by them, and above forty 
or fifty entries in each place, all having communication under 
ground, so that a terrier or little dog trained to hunt them may 
enter at one end of these hills and come out at another, and these 
are impregnable strength to defend them; for in case they be hard 
besieged either by terriers or by digging, they work so with their 
feet, throwing the sand behind them, and so closing the passage^ 
that they elude the labour of their pursuers. But the surer way 
of hunting them, is to watch them in the moonlight nights about 
Michaelmas, for then they use to frequent fields on which the 
folds of cattle used to lie through summer and harvest, whereby 
the place so manured and fattened yields against that time of the 
year a rank soft kind of grass, which the badgers, as is alleged, 
gather and carry to their holes, and feed on in winter ; but it is 
more probable, that they feed on the worms and roots of the grass 
on the fields, and carry some of the grass alongst to their holes, 
with which they make warm couches whereon they sleep for the 
most part all winter over. 

*< In this country, there are few of these moorfowls called red cocks 
and their hens, but great plenty of blackcocks and heath hens. 
Of old there were here in the woods these fowls called capper- 
coillies, which was a large fowl about the bigness of a turkey hen, 
of a grayish mixt colour and round body, much of the shape of 
the blackcock, but bigger, of good taste ; fiuch of them as fre- 
quented the birch woods, tasted better than those that haunted the 



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512 ARGTLBSHIRB. 

fir woods ; but there hath none of them been seen in this country 
these sixty or seventy years bypast 

^^ Besides the greater rivers or waters, Neaunnt, Lonan, Luach- 
ragan, Lusragan, there are a great many small rivulets or brooks, 
all replenished with small trouts at all times, and betwixt Michael- 
mas and Hallowmas with greater trouts, of the bigness of herrtng, 
or rather larger, which come in from the sea to spawn ; and on 
these greater rivers, there come in good store of salmon fish, some 
of the largest sort, but most of the smaHer, which are grilses. 
The otters frequently haunt these rivers and brooks, and follow 
them to their very original, near to the tops of hills. 

*< There is no considerable take of sea-fish here, only at the Con- 
nel, and the little island near it called Glash Island, there is good 
store of young scathes, codlings, and other small fish, caught with 
rods all summer oven 

** This country is designed by the name of Baronry of Kilmaro- 
nag, from a village in it of that name, signifying, in the Irish lan- 
guage, the cell of the Holy Cross, where as yet remain the walls of 
an old church. This, it seems, of old, was esteemed the chief 
place of the country, for here were the courts held ; but, shortly 
before the Reformation, there was another church built in Kiie- 
spiheriU now called Kirk Town, which now is the parochial 
church. In the place where it stands, there was of old (and still 
as yet used) a burial-place, and hard by it a standing cross, with 
a crucifix. The stone is yet extant, without any inscription, ex- 
cept the image of Christ extended, and it lieth in a grave instead 
of a tomb. It seems there was a cell or chapel here of old, be- 
fore the building of the church, denominated by or dedicated to 
Bishop Cyrillus, or rather the old Scottish saint Coriolanus, whence 
it retaineth the name of KUespikeriL 

<< There is one single roum of land, or plough of land, in this 
country, called Achnacloich, with the adjacent small isle Elina* 
nabb, or Abbot's Isle, which is not within the said baronry, but is 
holden of the abbot of InshafiVey of Stratheam, belonging of a 
long time by-past to the Laird of Lochnell, Campbell, and now 
to a cadet 6f that family. Of old, because of the frequent incur- 
sions of the English into this kingdom, and other commottonst 
it was usual that meir of quality, whose interest lay in the low 
countries, did purchase some small parcel of lands in the High- 
lands, into which, in time of these public calamities, they used to 
withdraw for a while, when they could not, without hazard, reside 



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MUCKAIRN. 513 

at home; and it seems that this room was^ for that use, kept by 
the Abbot of Inshaffrey« All the rest of the country^ being 
twenty- five ploughs of land, are a regality by themselves, and 
have the privileges and immunities usually belonging to regalities, 
appertaining in property to the Right Honourable the Knights of 
Calder, CaqfipbeHs, for the space of 200 years ago, and came to 
be theirs in heritage after the manner following : — 

" This country, after it was doted to the Church by King Mal- 
com Kenroore, and his religious Queen, Margaret, in testimony of 
her thankfulness for the prayers of the Church, by which she ob« 
tained from the Lord her son Edgar, so named after her brother 
Edgar, King of England, who was expelled by King William 
the Conqueror, whence it got the denomination of Maodh-edgarn, 
or Meucam corruptly, — it belonged to the Bishops of the Isles; 
and one of these bishops called Ferquhard, sett the same in tack 
to MacDougall of Lorn, who was at that time very powerful in thir 
countries. MacDougall, for some considerable time, paid his tack 
duly to the bishops in victuals, which was received at a place on 
the shore side, near Kilmochronag, called Cregan-a-Mhail to this 
day ; but MacDougall, either through insolence, or some private 
cliscontent, became an undutiful vassal, and an ill payer of his 
<lues, till, in the end, he refused to pay any thing at all 

'< At this time Sir John Campbell, Knight of Calder, and second 
son to the Earl of Argyll, a valiant, witty, and active man, by the 
instigation and unwearied endeavours and mediation of one Priest 
MacPhail, his foster father, (a relation at that time among the 
Highlandmen no less obliging than that of blood,) did obtain from 
the Bishop of the Isles a right to this barony and regality of 
Kilmaronag, or country of Muckairn, which the said priest did 
carefully manage, both in assisting the advance of the money that 
was given for it to the bishop, and in obtaining the Pope's confir* 
mation to the right, which was done by bis legate, Sylvester 
Darius, the last legate from the Pope in this kingdonu Thus, 
liaving obtained a legal right, MacDougall, as he * 

the bishop out of it, thought also to do the same to the 
knight, and by force to retain the possession of the country in his 
own hand, many of his kindly men and followers inhabiting the 
same, and himself very powerful in these bounds. After several 
civil messages to MacDougall to no purpose, the knight, being 
clothed with legal right and authority, is necessitated to possess 
himself by force, and, having gathered a considerable party of 

* lUegible in the original manuscript. 

ARGYLE* Kk nr^r^n]o 

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5^14 



ARGYLESHIRE. 



men, was met, in his entry to the country, by a numerous party 
under the command of MacDougall's son, and, both parties en- 
gaging, MacDougall's son and some of his adherents were slain, 
and the rest pursued till the night and woods did separate them. 
There are yet cairns or some heaps of stones remaining, which were 
made in the places where the dead were found, denominated from 
the persons killed. Thus the knight got possession. Not loi^ 
after this, MacDougall, hearing that the knight had sent a few 
men to take up the rents in the country, sent a party to surprise 
them, and cut them off; but they, getting intelligence hereof, 
were in readiness to receive them, and repelled them with the loss 
of two of MacDougall's men. A third encounter they had, but 
without blood ; for, the knight on the one side, and MacDougall 
on the other, both well appointed, and accompanied with their foU 
lowers, as they were ready to 6ght, fell on a treaty, and by mes* 
sage betwixt them they were reconciled : MacDougall yielding up 
and passing from all his pretensions, desiring only as a favour that 
the knight would be kind to his clansmen and followers dwell- 
ing in these lands, which his successors performed to that degree, 
that, within a short time, they forsook their dependence on Mac- 
Dougall, and depended absolutely on the Knight of Calder, of 
whom there are several branches yet remaining in the country, as 
the MacCalmans, MacNackands, MacAndeoras, and others. 

*^ Ever since it hath been peaceably possessed by the Knights of 
Calder as their proper heritage, without any intermission, and go* 
verned by their baillies and chamberlains in their own absence, 
who always were cadets of their own family. 

'* This country being a parish by itself, although it lies in the 
midst of the diocess of Argyle, sind, by an act of Parliament, in the 
^ear 1637, annexed to be one charge, together with the parish of 
Ardchattan or Baillevaodain, on the other side of Loch Etive ; yet 
was a part of the diocess of Dunkell, and the Bishop of Dunkell, 
titular of the whole tithes, parsonage and vicarage, within th^ 
same, and patron of Killesbuigkerill, it being one of his mensal 
kirks; but the knights of Calder were always tacksmen of the 
tithes, and paid a certain feu-duty to the bishop, besides the mi« 
Bister's stipend. The knights of Calder have other lands adjoin* 
ing to this country, for besides the lands of Ichrachan, Baraiailf 
and Tayinluin, which are disjoined from it only by the river Ne- 
ftunnt, and are a part of the estate which the 6rst knight got from 
the £arl of Argyle, the rest of it lying on Lochowside ; the 9upe« 



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MUCKAIKN. # 51* 

riority and feu thereof they still retain. They have the lands in 
Benderloch called the priory lands of the monastery of Ard* 
chattan, all contiguous, lying by the shore side over against Muc* 
kearn, from Ardachy to Dailchaderly inclusive, holden in feu of 
them by two cadets of their own family, whose titles are Ardchat-* 
tan and Inveresragan, whereof Ardchattan has the lands of Ard* 
chattan, Inion, Ardachy, Craig, and Caidderlies, and Inveresra- 
gan, the lands of Inveresragan, Blarcreen, and Kiqnacraig, only 
the monastery and what is contained within the precincts thereof, 
which is not above five or six acres of ground, Ardchattan holdeth 
of the king. 

^^ This monastery was founded about the year 1231, by M'Cul* 
\a, a race of people who once had a great part of Benderloch ; 
but now there are few of them in that country. The Monks here 
were of the order called Vallis Caulium, or Vallis Umbrosa ; — they 
were a branch of the Cistertians, and were kept in great strict-* 
ness, being wholly intent on their devotions, and confined within 
the walls of the monastery, so that it was only lawful for the prior 
and' one of the order to go abroad upon necessary occasions. 
They were duly employed in dressing of orchards for fruit, and 
gardens for herbs, for the use of the monastery. Not long before 
the Reformation, there were some of the Mac Dougalls priors here, 
whose tomb is yet extant, with an inscription in old characters." 

To the information communicated in the above document, it is 
not necessary to make many additions. The following observa- 
tions may su£Sce. 

Name. — It is not unlikely that the name Muckaim is derived 
from the Gaelic Muc^ " the wild hog or boar," and Cairn, 
" dens," the compound signifying ** the wild hogs' dens/' The 
names of other localities in the neighbourhood indicate that these 
formidable animals were at one time numerous in the country, as 
the Gaelic reader will at once infer, from the following names of 
farms in the parish of Ardchattan, ** Bar«na-intie,'' ^^ Ard-mhuc- 
innis." The whole race, it is superfluous to add, has many years 
ago been extirpated* 

Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is about 9 miles long 
from its eastern to its western extremity, of an irregular figure, 
with a medium breadth of from 5 to 6 miles. Its western section 
from Achnachloich, now Stonefield, onwards, is distinguished by 
the name of the strathf* and its eastern, as the heights of Muck" 
aim ;f and the whole is bounded on the north by Loch Etive ; on 

* Mucairn-an-tsrath. f BTiigh-Mhucairn. 

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5i6 « AKGYLESHIRE. 

the west, by the small river Lusragan, which divides it from the 
parish of Kilmore ; on the south, by the parish of Kilmore ; and 
on the east, by the river Nauntan and the lake of that name, which 
separate it from the parishes of Innishail and Kilchrenan. 

Topographical Appearances. — The Mallore (Cdtici MaoU 
odhar) range, stretching from north-east to south-west, is the only 
chain of mountains in the parish, and none of the eminences there, 
it is believed, .attain an elevation greater than 1100 feet. Exclu- 
sive of that range, the mountain Deechoid is the highest in the pa- 
rish,— a distinction which has been embodied in a Gaelic couplet, 
often in requisition when that mountain is referred to, " Dichoine- 
head, — Siorchoimhead Mhucairn*'' From Mallore northward, 
the surface, with occasional elevations, slopes gradually, forming 
sequestered vales and corries, with finely wooded high grounds, 
till it reaches the sea. The coast, which is generally low, in some 
parts rocky, extends, including windings, to a distance of nine 
miles* 'It is indented with creeks and headlands, and there are 
two fine bays, the bay of Stonefield, and Aird's-bay, with its ample 
sweep. In the former of these, snugly sheltered, is situated the 
Abbot's Isle, robed in its mantle of green, and exhibiting still a 
few aged sycamores, the relicts of the days of the years that are 
past. Both the bay of Stonefield and Salen-ru6, a little fiiirther 
on, furnish secure and commodious anchorages. 

Hydrography. — The principal river is the Naunt, and along 
the source of this stream there are more than one waterfall, which, 
with the luxuriant coppice woods adorning its lofty banks on either 
side, will for many a mile attract the attention and excite the ad- 
miration of the tourist, as he wends his way from port Sonachan 
to Taynuilt. Though the river Naunt be so near to the Awe, 
fishermen and anglers allege that there is a marked difference 
in the temperature of these two streams, the water of the Naunt 
being sensibly colder than that of the Awe. The writer of these 
notes had no opportunity, or failed to avail himself of it, for test- 
ing scientifically the correctness of this observation. 

Next in size to the Naunt is the Lonan. After pursuing the 
noisy tenor of its way from east to west for a few miles, and wa- 
tering in its course the meadowy glen, from which, perhaps, it de- 
rives its name, * this stream discharges itself into that beautiful 
expanse of water in the parish of Kilmore, the lake of Lochnell, 
noted as having given its title to that ancient family. Lochoell 

• Glen-lonan, i. e, '• the glen of meadows.*' 



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MUCKAIRN. 617 

signifies ** the lake of swans/' and hence, in the armorial bearings 
of the family, a swan formsi appropriately enough, one of the sup- 
porters. 

The Liiacbragah and Lusragan, the one so called, as the names 
in Gaelic import, from the profusion of rushes, the other from the 
herbage on their banks respectively, are next in dimensions to the 
Lonan. I'he Luachragan intersects a good part of the parish ; 
and both flow from south to north, the one falling into the sea 
about the centre of the parish, and the other at its western bound- 
ary, a little above Connall. On what earthly ground, mere cour- 
tesy apart, either of these insignificant streams should be dignified 
with the name of river, ordinary ingenuity must be at a loss to dis- 
cover. 

The principal lakes are the Lochandow to the west, — a chain of 
lakes not less than two miles in length, abounding in reeds, but 
well stocked with trout; and Loch Naunt to the east, scarcely half 
the extent of the other. 

IL — Civil Histoky. 

Exclusive of the MSS. already referred to, there are no ancient 
or modern accounts of the history of the parish, nor have there 
been any historical events of importance within the memory of 
man. With the exception of the farm of Achnacloich or Stone- 
field, part of the estate of Campbell of Braegleen, in the parish 
of Kilninver, the whole of the district of Muckairn is the property 
of Campbell of Lochnell, having nearly a century ago been pur- 
chased by that family from Campbell of Calder. 

Parochial Registers. — The earliest ! entry is in 1760. These 
registers have been kept irregularly during the greater part of that 
time ; more recently there has been an improvement in this respect. 

Antiquities, — There are not many objects here which claim the 
attention of the antiquarian. During the reign of popery, there 
were several religious buildings within the district, more than 
enough, indeed, to put' to shame that cold and criminal indiffer- 
ence as to the worship of God and divine things generally, which 
has characterized later times, though it is to be hoped a better 
day begins to dawn. Near the western boundary of the parish, we 
have Kilvariey t. e. the burial ground or church of Marie^ or the 
Virgin Mary. About a mile north-east of this is Kilmaronagj " the 
church dedicated to Maronag^^ selected also as the patron saint of 
another church in Dumbartonshire, which gives its designation to 
the parish there of that name ; and we have, besides, near the east- 



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&Id ARQYLESHIRfi. 

ern boundaryi KUespicherilly " the church or burial ground iedU 
cated to Bishop Cyril," or KeriU. At the two last-bentioned 
of these localities, particularly at Kilmaronag, the ruins of the 
ecclesiastical buildings may still be traced. As in most otber dis- 
tricts of the country, there are several Druidical circles, more or 
less perfect, but none deserving of special notice. On a plain 
near the rising ground on which the present church is built, there 
was a detached obelisk, erected probably before the introduction 
of Christianity into the country, to commemorate some remarka- 
ble event. On the arrival of the intelligence of the victory obtained 
by Lord Nelson over the French fleet at Aboukir, the workmen 
at the Lorn Furnace, not in the best possible taste, removed this 
obelisk to the neighbouring hill, where it yet remains, — having 
been the first monument probably raised in commemoration of 
that victory^* 

Eminent Men. — There do not appear to have been any distin- 
guished characters connected with this districtf 

* There is an eminence near Kilmaronag named ^* CnoC'na-^michofnhairk,^ that is, 
*' the hill of the untonrard conference,** a name, tradition states, given to it for the 
reason which follows : — Two hostile bodies, tradition has failed to tell who they were, 
met on a neighbouring plain, and were on the point of giving battle, when the leader 
of one of the parties proposed a friend ij conference to his opponent, in order to pre* 
vent the shedding of blood. That proposal was acceded to, and they agreed to settle 
their differences, if possible, on an adjoining hill, leaving their followers on the phun 
l)elow. Before retiring to this hill, it was agreed, that, if the two chiefe could not 
come to an amicable understanding, they should, on the hill, attack each other,— and 
this was to be the signal to their followers that their differences had not been adjusted, 
and the two bodies were then to engage on the plain. The chie& met accordingly, 
—came to an understanding, and were just returning to their men, when a large ser- 
pent made its appearance out of a busb beside them. Both leaders at once drew their 
swords to destroy the serpent. Their followers regarding this as a signal for them 
to attack each other, did so most furiously,— 4ind the two chiefs, accusing one another 
of treachery, followed the example of the parties engaged, in battle, till both were 
mortalljr wounded, with the great majority of their followers. Hence, it is said, the 
appropriate name of that hill till this day, Cnoc-na-michomhairle, 

-)- Unless we except a native poet, more noted for his wit than for his gallantry. 
There is one production of his, quite of a local character, which is yet occasionally tt- 
peated, though the author has, many years ago, been numbered with the dead. To un> 
dersund its point, it will be remembered that the Mallore mountains are the highest in 
the parish, the river Lonan washing their base for some miles. At a short distance 
is situated Strontoiller, a large farm, forming part of tlTe Lochnell property, occupied 
of old, as it still is, by several tenants with their cottars, and having the mountain 
Toamnamone in its close vicinity. These remarks will serve to explain the jiu tTet^ 
prit, which, in the original, is as follows : 

'Sionuidh sneaahd th*air a Mhaol-odhar, 
^Siomadh sruth tha ruith do Lonnan, 
^Siomadh Ceo th'air Toamnamone, 
*Siomadh oUeach ih*an Srondoillar.** 
Attempted to be done into English thus ; 

Full many the snow-flakes that fall on Mallore, 

And many the streams that run, Lonan, to thee ; 

Around Toamnamone*s sides many thick vapours lour, 

So — many great ghkcs in Strontoiller there be. 



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MUCKAIRN. 



51d. 



III. — Population. 

There are no accouDts of the population on record here previ- 
ous to the year 180L 

In 1801, the population was' - 883 

1811, - - 878 

1821, - - 881 

1881, . - 770 

1841, - - 812 

When the last census was taken, the number of males was 386, 
and of females, 426; but, besides these, there were about 50 
males absent from the parish when the census was taken, thus 
making the actual population 860. The increase since ]d3l may, 
arise from more workmen being wanted for employment in the 
woods, and at the Lorn Furnace Company. 

The average of births for the last seven years, as appears from 
the records, is 14^, and of marriages, 4\. No register of deaths 
is kept. 

The aycrage number of persons under 15 years of age in 1881 was, 800 

15 to 80, - - 174 

30 10 50, - - 142 

50 to 70, - 120 

upwards of 70, - - 34 

770 

There are no resident noblemen, or families of independent for- 
tune, residing in the parish, and but two proprietors of land of the 
yearly value of L.50. 

There were, in 1831, 13 males unmarried, and 20 women un- 
married who were upwards of forty-five years of age, and three in- 
sane persons. 

The social condition of the parish is not, to any very marked ex- 
tent, inferior to that of the neighbouring districts, and the same ob- 
servation applies, perhaps, to their religious and moral state. It 
should be mentioned, however, that, so far back as the year 1753 
and 1757, a great part of the district of Muckairn was let in lease 
to an English Company for the sake chiefly of its woods, which 
are manufactured into charcoal, used in making pig-iron. The 
ore is imported from Lancashire, smelted with the charcoal, and 
the iron thus obtained is considered equal in quality to any made 
in the kingdom* But the employment of a great proportion of the 
population during a considerable portion of the year at the smelt'- 
ing furnace, and, in the case of both sexes, in the woods, is the 
reverse of favourable to the observance of the Sabbath, to purity 
of morals, or to due attendance to religious instruction and religi- 
ous duties. The expiration of the lease will take place in 1863L 



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k20 ARGTLFSHIRE. 

IV. — Industry- 

It has already been stated that the great bod; of the people are 
employed in works connected with the smelting furRace at Bunaw. 
As the operations there are carried on with charcoal, the growth 
of wood isy as might be anticipated, carefully encouraged, and this 
circumstance exerts an unfavourable influence on the cultivation of 
the land. But still agricultural improvements in the district are 
progressing rather than retrograding, both on the Company's lands, 
which generally are laid out in small patches for their workmen, 
and on the other 6ne farms in the parish, which are not included 
in the Company's lease* 

There are about 350 acres of arable land in the parish, with 
about a fourth part more of meadow land, while the extent of land 
under coppice wood, consisting chiefly of oak, birch, and moun- 
tain ash, is not less than 1900 acres. 

Live-stock. — The number of sheep in the district rather exceeds 
3000. There are 280 cows and their followers, with 220 head of 
cattle besides, and from 50 to 60 horses. 

The great obstacles to improvement are, the short duration of 
the leases, the want of capital on the part of the people, and the 
little encouragement given for building accommodations, and for 
enclosing, draining, and improving the lands. 

Rent — The gross rental of the parish is not below L.2000, 
though the actual rent paid by the Lorn Furnace Company to the 
proprietor for their lands in the district, including the valuable 
farm of Icrachan, on which they have erected the iron-works, and 
which is situated in the parish of Innishail, does not amount to 
L.440. The value of each hagg or cutting of the woods (once say 
in twenty-four years), and calculated, as stated in the Account of the 
parish of Ardchattan, amounts to L.8260. 

Manufactures. — The charring of wood excepted, which is ef- 
fected in the usual way, there are no manufactures in the parish, 
nor are the moral consequences which result from the getting up 
of that article, such as would justify us in wishing that there were 
any more. 

There is a tolerably regular intercourse maintained between 
Lorn Furnace and Ulverstone, — vessels from the latter port being 
employed in conveying ore for the furnace, and carrying back the 
iron in the form of bars. 

V. — Parochial Economv. 
JfarAeMoii?».— There is no market-town in the i>artsh, the 

2 



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MUCKAIRN. 521 

nearest being Oban, which is twelve miles distant from the 
church. 

Means of Commwiicatioa. — The line of the great county road 
from Oban and the western isles to Inverary is conducted through 
the parish, a distance of eight miles ; but it is to be regretted, 
that, with this exception, there are no other roads which deserve 
the name. The nearest post-office is Bonaw ; and a coach plies 
betwixt Inverary and Oban daily during the summer months, and 
on alternate days, Sundays excepted, in winter and spring. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The church, which is situated near the 
eastern extreipiity of the parish, and inconveniently for a consider- 
able portion of the people, was built in 1829, after the passing of 
the enactment for endowing additional churches in the Highlands, 
the manse and offices being built by Government It is a plain 
but commodious place of worship^ capable of accommodating 350 
sitters, and having, in terms of the Act of Parliament, a portion 
of the seats let at a low rent, in order to uphold the manse and 
offices. The incumbent has also, as the act requires, a piece of 
land for garden ground, with a salary from Government of L.I20 
per annum. Till the late disruption of the Church, there were not 
half a-dozen of Dissenters in tha district ; but that event occa- 
sioned a very material change. 

Education, — There are two schools in the parish, the one paro- 
chial, and^ having attached to it the minimum salary allowed by 
act of Parliament. The other school, situated at Auchlevan, m 
the west end of the district, is unendowed, though there was till of 
late a salary of L.I7 per annum allowed by the Society in Scotland 
for Propagating Christian Knowledge. A handsome school-house, 
capable of accommodating 130 scholars, with superior accommoda- 
tions, was erected for the parochial teacher in 1836, by the lady of 
Greneral Campbell of Lochnell, while the General himself built a 
neat and commodious school-house, besides giving a house and 
piece of ground, for the other teacher. It is due to the present 
proprietor of Lochnell to mention, that, in consequence of the with- 
drawal of the salary by the Society, he has himself, for the last 
two years, given L.12 per annum to the Auchlevan schoolmaster. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number on poor's roll is 26. 
Till the vacancy in 1837, the collections and mort cloth dues were 
found insufficient for the poor, besides enabling the kirk-session, 
with the aid of a sum of L.30 bequeathed for the purpose, to lay 
up more than L.00 of [a fund for such emergencies as might oc- 



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522 ARGYLESHIRE. 

cur. Since that vacancy the whole of this sum of L.60 has beeor 
called up and distributed among the poor, while the collections now 
are totally inadequate to their wants ; nor it is easy to see how 
compulsatory assessments can be avoided* 

Inns. — There are two inns in the parish, one of which is neces- 
sary, while the other, it is believed, might, without any inconveni- 
ence, be dispensed wilfa. 

February 1844. 



UNITED PARISH OF 
KILMORE AND KILBRIDE. 

PRESBYTERY OF LORN, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. DUGALD N. CAMPBELL, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Name^ Boundaries^ 8fc. — Kilmore is derived from the Gaelic 
words, Kilj signifying a burying-place, and mor^ large, or Kil and 
Muirey a burying-place dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Kilbride 
dignifies a burying-place dedicated to St Bridget 

Kilmore and Kilbride are supposed to have been united sooir 
after the Reformation ; the former was a parsonage and the latter 
^ vicarage. Kilmore is the presbytery seat. 

The united parish is bounded on the east, by the parishes of 
Kilchrenan and Muckairn ; on the north and west, by Lochetive 
and the Sound of Mull ; and on the south, by Locbfeochan and 
the parish of Kilninver. Its extent from east to west is about 12 
miles, and from north to south 9 miles. The island of Kerrera, 
which forms part of the parish, is situated to the north-west, and 
separated from the mainland by a narrow sound. Its length is 3 
miles and breadth nearly 2. 

Topographical Appearances. — The general appearance of the 
parish is hilly ; the hills, however, are not high, and the valleys 
between them are cultivated and fertile. The soil is in general 
light and sandy, A considerable extent of moss remains still un- 
improved ; part of it might be cultivated with advantage. 



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RILMORE AND KILBRIDE. 523 

The pasture is good for black-cattle or sheep. The coast is 
indented with bays, and on the west presents a bold and rocky ap- 
pearance. 

II. — Civil History. 

Alexander II. of Scotland died in the island of Kerrera. << An« 
gus of Argyle had been wont to do homage to the King of Norway 
for certain islands. Alexander requested that homage to be done 
to himself, and it being denied he resolved to force it. While 
engaged io this enterprise he was seized with fever and died in 
the island of Kerrera, near the Sound of Mull, 8th July 1249, iii 
the 57th year of his age and 35th of his reign." 

Tradition says that Alexander died in a field in Kerrera called 
Dalree^ or the King's field, near the Horse shoe harbour, where his 
fleet lay at the time. 

Castles. — Dunstaffnage — " If romantic and magnificent scenery* 
if the pleasing interchange of mountain and valley, of wood and 
water, of sea and land, of island and continent — conjoined with 
all those recollections borrowed from the earliest ages of our his* 
t'ory, which are most gratifying to national feeling, — be viewed as 
inducements in selecting the site of a royal residence, it may well 
be questioned if Britain could present one more desirable than the 
vicinity of Dunstaffnage. 

<*. This ancient palace is seated on a rock washed by the waves of 
the Atlantic. It is skirted on the right by that beautiful arm of 
the sea called Loch Etive, which runs far inward, and which must 
be distinctly remembered by all who have crossed it at Connal 
ferry, so appalling to strangers, where the body of water is so much 
confined by the narrowness of the sound, that at particular times 
of the tide, it forces its way through with great noise, like an im- 
petuous river over a rocky bed, forming a great variety of small 
whirlpools. 

" The form of the name of this seat of royalty has been consi- 
derably varied by different writers. There has not been less va- 
riety in regard to the etymon given of the name. Dunstaffnage 
has been rendered by those best acquainted with the Gaelic lan- 
guage. Dun Qffus (pronounced) ta tnishy as signifying ^^ the for- 
tified hill with the two islands," descriptive of the local situation, 
the place having been denominated from the two islands which lie 
north of the castle." 

•* The builder of this castle," says Grose, "and time of its con- 
struction are unknown. It is certainly of great antiquity, and was 



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524 . ARGYLESHfRE. 

once the scat of the Pictish and Scottish princes ; here for a long 
time was preserved the famous stone, the palladium of Scotland, 
brought, as the legend has it, from Spain* It was afterwards re- 
moved by Kenneth the Second to Scone, and is now in West- 
minster Abbey, brought thither by King Edward I." 

The castle is of a square form, 87 feet within the walls, having 
round towers at three of the angles. The average height of the 
walls is 66 feet ; 9 in thickness. The external measurement of 
the walls amounts to 270 feet The circumference of the rock on 
which it stands is 300 feet It has its entrance from the sea by a 
staircase, but it is supposed that in former ages this was by means 
of a drawbridge. Only part of the building is habitable, the rest 
of it being in ruins* The masonry is considered as very ancient 
At the distance of about 400 feet from the castle are the remains 
of a chapel, formerly appropriated to the religious services of its 
inmates. This in length is 78 feet, in height 14, and in breadth 
26 feet 

It is said that some of the ancient regalia were preserved here. 
Pennant has given a drawing of a small ivory figure found here, 
which, he thinks, " was certainly cut in memory of the celebrated 
chair, and appears to have been an inauguration sculpture : a crown- 
ed monarch is represented sitting in it with a book, ' rather a 
scroll,' in one hand, as if going to take the coronation oath." 

About the year 843 Kenneth M< Alpine transferred the seat of 
government to the palace of Forteviot in Perthshire. We lose 
sight of Dunstaffnage for several centuries, till it again rises up to 
view, during the eventful reign of Robert Bruce. It was then 
possessed by Alexander of Argyle, father of John, ** the Lord of 
Lorn."* 

From the evidence of old charters, the castle and lands of Dun* 
stafihage were, a. d. 1436, granted to Dugald, son of Colin, Knight 
of Lochaw, the direct ancestor of the family in whose possession, 
as '^ Captains of Dunstaflfnage," it has remained to the present 
day. Dunstaffnage continued to be carefully maintained as the 
principal stronghold of the clan Campbell in this part of Argyle- 
shire, as a defence against the incursions of the warlike and hostile 
clans in the Isles and the north, down to the Rebellions in 1715 
and 1745, when it was garrisoned by the royal forces. Among 
the various interesting relics of antiquity now at Dunstaffnage, may 
be mentioned the ivory image, and battle axe described by Penoaut, 
and the spurs and stirrups of Robert Bruce. 

* Fide Browne*8 Views of the Rojal Palaces of Scotland. 



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KILMORE AND KILBRIDE. 525 

DunoUy^ Gylen. — Neither history nor tradition say when 
the Castle of Dunolly was built. Somerled, Thane or Prince 
of Herigadiel, who flourished in the beginning of the twelfth 
century, divided his great territories betwixt his sons Dugal and 
Reginald. Dugal he placed over those on the mainland, then 
erected into a principality, and named Argadia, or Ergadia, with 
the chiefs seat at DunoUa, now Dunolly. Dugal's successors as- 
sumed and are known by the patronymic appellation of M'Dougall. 
Allaster M^Dougall, or, as he is called in the writings of the times, 
Allaster de Argadia, married the third daughter of John, called the 
Red Comyn, who was slain by Bruce. Hence Allaster became the 
mortal enemy of that prince, and defeated him in battle at Dalree 
near Tyndrum. The vanquished prince retreated, leaving his brooch 
and plaid, as memorials of victory, in the hands of his conqueror. 
When Bruce obtained an ascendancy in Scotland, he amply re- 
venged his defeat at Dalree, at the pass of Awe in Argyleshire, 
where the M'Dougalls under John, son of Allaster, were routed 
with great slaughter. Bruce thereupon laid waste Argyle, and 
laid siege to, and took the Castle of Dunstaffnage. From this 
period, the representatives of Somerled are no longer styled de 
Argadia. Their title thereafter is Lords of Lorn, and the Castle 
of Dunolly, with its dependencies, was the principal part of what 
remained to them. These they continued to enjoy until the year 
17LS when the representative incurred the penalty of forfeiture 
for his accession to the insurrection of that period ; — " thus," as 
Sir Walter Scott says, ^^ losing] the remains of their inheritance, 
to replace upon the throne the descendants of those princes whose 
accession their ancestors had opposed at the expense of their feu- 
dal grandeur." 

The estate was afterwards restored to Alexander, grandfather 
of the present proprietor, John M'Dougall of M*Dougall, Cap- 
tain in Her Majesty's navy. 

A better picture of the site of the house of Lorn cannot be 
presented than that drawn by the pen of the great bard himself, 
who visited the ruins of Dunolly in 1814. " Nothing," says Sir 
Walter, " can be more wildly beautiful than the situation of Dun- 
olly. The ruins are situated upon a bold and precipitous promon- 
tory, overhanging Loch Etive, and distant about a mile from the 
village and port of Oban. The principal part which remains is 
the donjon or keep ; but fragments of other buildings, overgrown 
with ivy, attest that it had been once a place of importance, 



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&26 ARGYLESHIRB. 

as large apparently as Ardtornish or Dunstaffnage. These frag* 
ments inclose a courUyard, of which the keep formed probably 
one side ; the entrance being by a steep ascent from the neck of the 
isthmus, formerly cut across by a moat, and defended, doubtless, 
by outworks and a drawbridge. Beneath the castle stands the 
present mansion of the family, having on one hand Loch Etive, 
with its islands and mountains, on the other two romantic emi* 
nences tufted with copsewood. There are other accompaDi- 
ments suited to the scene ; in particular, a huge upright pillar 
or detached fragment of the sort of rock called piumpuddiog* 
stone, upon the shore, about a quarter of a mile from the castla 
It is called Clachna'CaUy or the Dog's Pillar, because Fingal is 
said to have used it as a stake to which he bound his celebrated 
dog Bran. Others say, that, when the Lord of the Isles came up- 
on a visit to the Lord of Lorn, the dogs brought for his sport were 
kept beside this pillar. Upon the whole, a more delightful spot 
can scarce be conceived ; and it receives a moral interest firom the 
considerations attached to the residence of a family once power- 
ful enough to confiroDt and defeat Robert Bruce, and now sunk 
into the shade of private life. It is at present possessed by Pa* 
trick M'Dougall, Esq. the lineal and undisputed representative 
of the ancient Lords of Lorn. The heir of Duoolly fell lately in 
Spain, fighting under the Duke of Wellington, — a death well be- 
coming his ancestry."* 

Robert Bruce's brooch, better known in song as " the Brooch 
of Lorn," carefully preserved by the M^Dougalls, did not, how- 
ever, escape all the vicissitudes of the family. At the period of 
the civil wars, in the beginning of the seventeenth century, Gylen 
Castle, a stronghold of the M^Dougalls, romantically situated upoo 
a rocky promontory in the Island of Kerrera, was beleaguered and 
taken by a detachment from the main army despatched into Ar- 
gyleshire, in 1647, under General Leslie. Robert Bruce*s brooch 
happened at this period to be deposited in Gylen Castle, and be- 
came the spoil of Campbell of Inverawe, then serving in the de- 
tachment sent to Lorn under Colonel Montgomery, the captor of 
Gylen Castle. By the descendants of Inverawe, the brooch was 
carefully preserved down to 1826, when it was purchased from 
the representatives of that family by the late General Duncan 
Campbell of Lochnell, who, with a generosity which much dis- 
tinguished him« restored the long lost brooch to the present pro- 

• Note to the Lord of the Isles. 



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KILMORE AND KlLBRlDE. 527 

prietor of Dunolly. A few other relics of olden times are still 
preserved in the family : — a Bnely executed bronze equestrian 
figure of Eian Bacach, or lame John, who was defeated by Ro- 
bert Bruce at the Pass of Awe ; a brass gun, presented by 
James VI I. to Allan M'Dougall of Dunolly ; a medal given to 
John, the son of Allan, by the Chevalier St George, for whom 
John led his clan to the unfortunate field of Sheriffmuir ; and, 
what was once perhaps more highly estimated than all these, a 
pair of transparent crystal balls, about the size of pigeon's eggs, 
and which reflect light in all the hues of the rainbow. Tradition 
says, a Lord of Lorn, who joined the Crusaders, brought these 
stones from the Holy Land. They were for centuries supposed 
to possess great healing virtues, particularly in curing diseases of 
cattle, when it is said they were dipped in water which the cattle 
received to drink. It is not a century since they were sent for by 
express, a distance of forty miles, to stay the ravages of an epi- 
demic. These stones used to be regarded with reverential awe ; 
but, since the schoolmaster came abroad, they are less sought after. 

Land'Owners.'^The land-owners are. Captain M^Dougall of 
M'Dougall ; Archibald Campbell, Esq. of Lochnell ; the Most 
Noble the Marquis of Breadalbane ; Sir Donald Campbell of 
Dunstafi'nage, Bart; Dugald M'Dougall, Esq. of Gallanach; Ro- 
bert Campbell, Esq. of Sonachan ; Miss Campbell of Glenfeochan; 
Dr Campbell of Lerags ; James Forsyth, Esq. of Dunach, and 
Hugh Munro, Esq. of Soraba. 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial register commenced in 
October 1783, and has since been regularly kept. 

IIL-^POPULATION. 

By Dr Wcb8ter*8 Account in 1755, the population was 1200 

In 1791, there were in the landward parish, • IdOO 

in Oban, ... 586 

-— F886 
In 1811, . . . 2729 

In 1821, there were in the landward parish, 1881 

in Oban, . . . 1359 

2740 

In 1881, there were in the landward parish, . 1856 

in Oban, . 1480 

2836 

In 1841, ..... 4327 

In 1831, the number of families in the parish (including Oban,) 

was • . . Q22 

Of these were employed in agriculture, 160 

varions trades, . 150 

The aTerage number of births for the last seTen years (including 

OiMn,) has been annually 60 

The arerage number of marriages, . . 16 



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^28 ARGYLESHIUE. 

In the landward part of the parish, there have been three iHe- 
gitimate births within the last three years. 

It appears from the preceding statement, that a considerable in* 
crease has taken place in the population of Oban for some time 
past, while in the same period the population of the landward pa* 
rish has decreased. This decrease may be attributed to the system 
recently adopted by some of the proprietors, of letting to one, 
farms that were formerly occupied by several tenants. 

The prevailing language is Gaelic, but English is generally un* 
derstood and gaining ground. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture* — Of late considerable improvement has been made 
in agriculture. A rotation of crops is encouraged, and in some 
cases insisted upon by the proprietors. Draining of land is carried 
on to some extent, partly at the expense of the landlord, and 
partly at the expense of the tenant. Leases varying from seven to 
nineteen years are usually granted. This practice is productive 
of beneficial effects. The certainty of having possession for a de- 
finite period frequently encourages the tenant to undertake and 
execute improvements which afford himself immediate profit, and 
render the land more valuable for the proprietor, 

Rentof Landj Sfc — The average rent of arable land per acre 
may be estimated at about L.1, 10s. yearly. The rent of grazing 
a cow, L.2, 15s. ; a sheep, 3s. The valued rent of the parish is 
L.868» 15s. 6d. Sterling. The real rent of the* landward part is, 
L.6750 ; of Oban, L.2200; total, L.8950 Sterling. 

Barley, oats, potatoes, and turnips, form the crop usually pro- 
duced. Black -cattle of the West Highland breed, and black- 
faced sheep are the principal stock reared. They are thought 
best adapted to the climate and soil. Ayrshire cows are kept by 
41 few individuals. One of the proprietors lately stocked part of 
hid land with South Down sheep. 

Rate of Wages.'-^k ploughman receives from L. 9 to L. 12 a 
year with victuals ; a maid servant from L.4 to L. 6 a year with 
victuals ; a day-labourer, Is. in winter, and Is. 6d. in summer^ 
without victuals. Wrights and masons receive from 2s. to Ss. per 
day. 

Quarries. — There is a slate and freestone quarry on the pro- 
perty of Mr Macdougall of Gallanach. The freestone is of a su- 
perior quality. 

Fisheries. — There are several saImon*fishing stations in the pa- 



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KILMORB AND KILBRIDE* 529 

risk Lochnell, the largest lake in the parish, and also the riter 
running from it, afford salmon and trout-fishing. The sea along 
the north and west of the parish abounds with a variety of fish. 
Herrings are frequently caught in Lochfeochan and Lochetive. 
Different kinds of shell-fish are found on the shores. 

Navigation. — Thirteen vessels, whose united burthen is 360 tons, 
belong to the port of Oban. 

Last year there was an Association formed for the improvement 
of stock, and the encouragement of agriculture. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Markets. — The principal market in the parish is held at Oban, 
in May and October for black-cattle, and in March and Novem- 
ber for horses. There is also a fair held four times a year at Kil- 
more; but there is now very little business transacted at it. 

Harbours. — The Bay of Oban is a spacious and commodious 
harbour for vessels of considerable burthen. The Horseshoe, in 
the Sound of Kerrera, and the Bay of Dunstaffnage also afford 
safe and excellent anchorage for vessels of large size. 

Ecdesiastical State of the Parish (exclusive of Oian/— -There 
are two parish churches, — one at Kilmore, and the other at Kil- 
bride, in each of which divine service is performed on alternate 
Sundays, always in Gaelic, and generally in English also. 

The church of Kilmore was built about 350 years ago. It was 
lately repaired, and now affords comfortable accommodation to 
above 350 pensons. The church of Kilbride, which was erected 
at a later date, is about to be repaired, and will then contain above 
300 sittings. 

The attendance in both these churches is usually good, consi- 
dering that the population is scattered over a wide extent of coun- 
try. The average number of communicants is about 200. There 
are about 15 Dissenters, who are either Baptists or Independents, 
and attend the places of worship belonging to these sects in Oban. 
The manse, which is large and commodious, was built in 1828. 
The extent of the glebe may be computed at 35 acres. The sti- 
pends are eight chalders of meal, and eight chalders of barley, 
with the usual allowance of L.8, 6s« 8d. for communion elements. 
•The Duke of Argyle is patron. 

Education. — In addition to two parochial schools there is one 
for girls, which is supported by the lady of one of the proprietors, 
who erected a comfortable school-house and dwelling-house for 
the school mistress. 

ARGYLE. L 1 



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5S0 ARGTLESHIRE. 

The salary of one of the parochial schoolmasters is Lfe25 Ster- 
ling. His other emoluments, arising from school fees» and from 
bis office as session-clerk, amount to L.12. The salary of the 
other is L.21 Sterling, with about Lj6 of school fees. Both have 
a dwelling-house and schooUhouse provided tor them by the he- 
ritors. It is in contemplation to establLA a third parocfaiid school, 
which is much required. There are three Sabbath schools. 

Quoad Sacra parish of Oban. — The quoad tacra parish of Oban 
comprehends the town of Oban, and a smaU landward district, 
extending in one direction about two miles, and in another about 
two miles and a half from the town. The whole population, as 
ascertained by a census taken within the last four years, is 1C20 
souls, of whom about 1400 reside in the town, and the remainder 
in the landward part of the parish. 

The quoad sacra parish of. Oban was erected in 1834, in 
accordance with the General Assen^ly's Act respecting cha- 
pels of ease. The present church is the first that was erect- 
ed in the parish in connection with* the Establishment, and was 
built in 1821. Prior to its erection, Divine worship used to 
be conducted, for a number of years, by ministers of the Esta* 
blished Church, in a small and inconvenient building now occu* 
pied as a school-room. The church affords accommodation for 
530. Though this, compared with the population, is apparently 
inadequate to the wants of the parish, it is not really so, in conse- 
quence of the number of inhabitants who do not understand the 
Gaelic language, or who prefer English. These attend public 
worship in the afternoon of Sabbath, — -the service being then con- 
ducted in the English language, while that part of the inhabitants 
who understand and prefer Gaelic attend in the forenoon ; so that 
there being two almost entirely distinct congregations, the church 
accommodation is in effect greatly increased. 

The minister's stipend is L.100 per annum^ which sum is raised 
by means of the seat rents, assisted by an annual grant of L.20 
from the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. 

At present no catechist is employed in the pari^. Pot several 
months of the year 1839, there was one in the employment of the 
United Secession body. 

* Dissenting Chapels. — ]«/, One connected with the United Se« 
cession. It was built about five years ago. The minister's sti« 
pend is believed to be L.90 per annum, which is guaranteed to 
him by the United Secession Congregation in Glasgow, of which 



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KILMOBE ADD KILBRIDE. 531 

the Rev. Mr King is minister ; the congregation in Oban being re- 
quired to hand over to it the seat rents and collections they receive. 
2^, One Independent or Congregational Chape), erected about 
the year 1820. The minister receives no fixed stipend from his 
congregation ; but the members contribute to his support as they 
may be able apd disposed, and the collections are chiefly applied « 
to his use. The Congregational Union give him a sum of L.20 
or JL.25 per annum. 

There are a few Baptists, who have no chapel, but meet for 
worship tn each others bouses. Their minister is chiefly employ- 
ed in itinerating throughout the surrounding district He receives 
a salary of L.40 per annum from a Baptist Society in Edinburgh. 

The Episcopalians number from 9 to 12, and consist principally 
of pfllcers of Excise and their families from England. 

There are about 15 Roman Catholics in the parish. 

The average number of communicants in the parish is 287. 

£(ftfca/to?L-^ There are five schools in the parish, three of them 
for males and females indiscriminately, and two for females alone. 
of the former class, the best attended js the school connected 
with the United Secession Chapel. It was opened four or five 
years agOj and has been taught almost exclusively by young men 
preparing for the ministry in connection with that denomination. 
Besides the ordinary branches of an English education, Latin and 
geography are taught in it. 

Another of this class is taught in a school-house built by sub- 
scription many years ago, on a lease granted by the late Duke of 
Argyle, and which has been occupied for several years by the 
present teacher, without payment of rent 

The third school of this class is taught in a room rented by the 
teacher. 

One of the female schools is a lady's boarding and day school. 
The ordinary English branches, geography, French, music, and 
drawing are taught in it The attendance is 30. 

The other female school is for the children of the labouring 
classes. It was established towards the end of 1831, chiefly by 
the exertions of a benevolent lady, for the purpose of training the 
female children of the labouring classes in habits of industry, be- 
sides imparting to them the elementary branches of a useful Eng- 
lish education. The average attendance is from 35 to 40. The 
teacher has a salary of L.20 per annuni, besides a free house and 
coals. The fees are applied to the payment of the teacher's sa- 
lary, and of the rent of the dwelling-house and school-rooaa, and 

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^32 ARGYLESfllRS. 

to the purchase of coals. As they are inadequate for these pof* 
poses, the deficiency is supplied by means of a sum of L.5 grant- 
ed annually to the school by the Society for Propagating Christ* 
ian Knowledge, and the interest of L.lOO collected for the pur- 
pose of erecting a building for the institution. The fees are, for 
reading alune, 2d. per week, and for reading, writing, and aritb^ 
metic, 3d. per week, payable in advance. 

In common with many other towns throughout Scotland of re- 
cent origin, and at some distance from the parish churches, Oban 
has been but indifferently favoured as to the means of education^ 
The whole sum appropriated by the heritors of the parish of Kil- 
bride, in which it is situated quoad civilia^ (o the purposes of educa- 
tion io it, is L.89 6s. 8d. per annum, and even this is not enjoyed by 
any of the present teachers. There is, however, a favourable prospect 
of the deficiency being supplied. A grant of L.150 has been pro- 
mised by Government towards the erection of a schooUhouse, and 
subscriptions to the amount of L.dlO have been received, by means 
of which, and additional subscriptionis that are expected, it is pro- 
posed to build a superior school-house and dwelling-house for a 
teacher. The Marquis of Breadalbane has liberally countenanced 
the undertaking, by promising a handsome subscription, and ground 
for the site of the building. 

Village of Oban. — This village is situated on the north-west 
shore of the parish. Its neat and picturesque appearance cannot 
fail to please the traveller, whether he approaches it by sea or 
land. The view, from the bay, of the town and surronnding coun- 
try is peculiarly striking. Oban is the property of the Most No- 
ble the Marquis of Breadalbane, and of Robert Campbell, Esq. 
of Sonachan. It is indebted for its present appearance to the en- 
couragement afforded by its present and late proprietors to house- 
building, by giving stances on payment of a small feu-duty ; also 
to the enterprising spirit of two brothers named Stevenson, who 
settled there about the year 1778, and engaged in ship-build- 
ing and various branches of trade. At that time there were few 
slated houses in the village ; now there are streets of good and 
commodious houses. 

Owing to its centrical situation in the Highlands, its safe and 
commodious harbour, and good quays, it is visited almost daily in 
summer by steamers with passengers to and from Glasgow, Inver- 
ness, lona, Staffa, and Skye. There is also, at that season, a 
daily coach running to and from Inverary, a distance of thirty- two 



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RILMORB AND KILBRIDE. ^'"33 

miles. The scenery along the road by which the coach travels is 
seldom surpassed for grandeur and romantic beauty. 

A good hotel and several boarding-houses afford comfortable 
accommodation to the numerous travellers who visit Oban. 

Post-Office. — There is a post-office, where a mail arrives and Is 
despatched daily« 

Banks. — A branch of the National Bank of Scotland has been 
in operation here for about 6fteen years, and a savings' bank has 
been established for two years. The deposits in the latter in 
1840 amounted to L.415, of which was withdrawn L.58^ 2s. 6d. 
In 1841, the sum deposited amounted to L.1193, 6s. 3d., of which 
L.199, 15s. 6d. was withdrawn. 

Oban is a parliamentary burgh, and, along with Ayr, Inrine, 
Campbelton, and Inverary, returns a Member to Parliament. 

There is a Sheriff-court for small debts, held quarterly, and a 
Justice of Peace court monthly. 

Peor and Purochial Funds. — The number of paupers in the 
whole parish (including Oban) on the roll is about 60, who re- 
ceive at an average about L.I, 10s. yearly from the collections 
4nade in the parish churches and chapel of Oban, and from do- 
nations by the heritors. They are principally supported by beg- 
ging through the parish. The heritors at present support three 
pauper lunatics, one of whom is in the Royal Lunatic Asylum, 
Glasgow ; another in the Town Hospital, Paisley ; and a third 
in the parish. 

Inns. — In the landward parish there are four inns, which do 
not seem to have, to any extent, an injurious effect on the morals 
of the people. 

In Oban, in addition to the principal hotel, which is well and 
regularly kept, there is a number of public-houses, some of which 
afford too many facilities for indulging in the use of ardent spirits. 

Fiul, — Coals, brought from Glasgow and the coast of Ayr, at 
an expense of about 13s. per ton, and peats found almost on every 
farm, afford a sufficient supply of fuel. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

Since the last Statistical Account of this parish was written, 
land has been much improved ; a better system of cultivation 
adopted; and a considerable extent of ground planted. The 
rental of the parish is now more than double what it then was. 
The mansion-houses of the proprietors are enlarged and more 
commodious, and the people in general are more comfortably 
lodged than formerly. 

January 1848, Digitized by CiOOglc 



PARISH OF JURA. 

PRESBYTBRY OF ISLAY AND JURA, SYNOD OF AROYLK. 

THE REV. ALEXANDER KENNEDY, MINISTER. 



I. — ToPOaRAPHT AND NaTCJRAL HiSTORT. 

Name. — The origiaal designation of the parbh was Kilearna- 
dale and Kilchattan, names of burying-grounds in Jura and Co- 
lonsay. It comprehends seven inhabited islands, viz. Jara, Co- 
lonsay, Oronsay, Scarba, Lunga, Belnahoa, Ganrelloch, or Holy 
Islands. The islands of Gigha and Cara were disjoined from this 
parish about 100 years ago, and the disjunctibn of Colonsay and 
Oronsay was at the same time in contemplation ; a committee of 
the presbytery of Kintyre^ including several gentlemen acquainted 
with the localitiesi having been appointed to give in a report to the 
presbytery. This was done, but no ulterior steps were taken to- 
wards the disjunction of these islands from the. parish of Jura. 
Jura signifies the island of Red Deer, from DeerOf a red deer, and 
/, an island. It still retains its ancient character, its deer being 
inferior In point of size and other qualities to none in Scotland. 
The number at present on the island is from 400 to 500. 

Extent. — The island of Jura from Freughilein below Jura Houses 
to Breacan's Cave in Kenuachdrach, is 36 miles in length ; its 
mean breadth is 7 miles. A sound, 1| miles in breadth, called the 
Gulf of Corryvrecan, separates it from the islandof Scarba, which 
lies to the north of Jura. Scarba is 3 miles in length, and nearly 
the same in breadth, containing a surface of about 8 miles square. 
The island of Lunga, separated from Scarba by an estuary named 
** Bealach a Chumhainn Ghlais," contains a surfiu^ of about three 
miles square. The Garvelloch, or Holy Islands, are remarkable 
for having been once the residence of the monks of lona. The 
remains of what appears to have been a dwelling»house and cha- 
pel, with a cemetery or burying-ground attached, are still extant. 
Here also is a marble quarry, which had been wrought at some 
distant period : a specimen of the quality of the marble may be 
seen at Inverary Castle. These islands are now valuable solely 



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JURA. 535 

on account of the excellence of their pasture, and the sheher they 
afford for sheep and black-cattle. They yield an annual rent of 
L.150 Sterling to Mr Campbell of Jura. 

Belnahua, about one mile in circumference, is almost a barren 
rock, valuable on account of its slate quarry. It contains a popu- 
lation of 150 souls, and is the property of Mr John Stevenson, 
Oban. 

.Tapoffraphieal Appearances. — The island of Jura presents to 
the eye a rough and rugged appearance : its conical mountains, 
called the Paps of Jura, are seen from a great distance, and f^m 
conspicuous land-marks to mariners. These mountains are three 
in number ; their names are '^ Beinn a Chaolais, Beinn an Oir, 
and Beinn Shianta ;" their difference in height above the level of 
the sea is trifling. Beinn an Oir, considered to be the highest, 
is about 2700 feet high. The whole population, with but few 
exceptions, reside on the east side of the island, where consider- 
able agricultural improvements have lately been made, the west 
side presenting in its whole length a bold, rocky, and rugged as- 
pect Upon this side of the island, there are at least fifty of the 
most magnificent caves which can be met with in any part of 
Scotland, the least of them capable of furnishing comfortable and 
dry lodging to the traveller. 

The largest of these, Uaghlamaich, is, at its opening facing the 
Atlantic Ocean, 33 feet in height, and contains an area of 1312 
square yards ; its beautifully arched roof scarcely admits a drop of 
water. Its floor is level and dry ; amid the raging of the highest 
tempest, scarcely a breath of wind stirs within it. The opening of 
this splendid cave is about 38 feet about the level of the sea. 
There are other caves spacious in their dimensions, and comfort- 
able in their accommodation : two of them are called corpachs, i. e. 
places where the inhabitants of Jura and other countries, on their 
way to Oransay and lona to bury their dead, were in the habit 
of depositing the corpses of their friends, until a favourable oppor- 
tunity of prosecuting their voyage to lona and Oransay occurred. 
One of these corpachs is in Rhuintalen, opposite to Colonsay : the 
other, called the corpach of I Columkill, is several miles to the 
north-east, along the coast 

The island of Jura has ever been proverbial for the longevity of 
its inhabitants. Instances are on record of many who attained the 
advanced age of 100 years, in the full possession of their faculties 
until the last. 



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536 ARGYLESHIRE. 

Hydrography. — The number of moor lochs in this island has 
never been, 1 believe, ascertained : such of them as the writer has 
seen^ abound with trout of excellent quality and flavour. The 
streams which issue from these lochsi form, in their progress to 
the sea, rivers of considerable depth and volume, the whole of 
them well stocked with trout and salmon. The principal rivers 
in Jura, are, first, the Knockbreck river, where Mr Campbell of 
Jura, the proprietor, has established a salmon fishery. The nqxt 
in point of depth and volume is Avin Lussa, passing through the 
property of Captain McNeill, younger of Colonsay, which also 
abounds with trout and salmon. 

Corran river, about two miles. from the manse of Jura, takes its 
rise from the countless clear springs that issue from the conical 
mountains of Jura. It receives in its progress the streams of 
Loch an Debe, Loch na Cloiche, &c. and empties itself into the 
sea below Corran House. In addition to these there is a variety 
of streams bearing the same character, in reference to trout and 
salmon : they fall, with the exception of one or two, into the sea 
on the east side of Jura. 

Coryvrechan. — Betwixt the north point of Jura i^d the island 
of Scarba is the-famous whirlpool of Coryvrechan.* There are 
also in the neighbourhood many smaller and dangerous whirlpools, 
and rapid currents. The following account of Coryvrechan is 
taken from MacCulloch's Highlands and Western Isles. 

*' The hazards of the Coryvrechan are of the same nature as 
those of the other narrow channels of the Western Islands, as well 

* According to a tradition still believed in the Hebrides, Corryvreachkan, or the Cal- 
dron of Breacbkan, received its name from a Scandinavian Prince, who* durinit a vi- 
sit to Scotland, became enamoured of a Princess of the Isles, and sought her for his 
bride. Her wily father, dreading the consequences of the connection, but fearful to 
offend the King of Loehlin, gave his consent to their marriage, on oonditioa that 
fireachkan should prove his skill and prowess bv anchoring his bark for three days 
and three nights in the whirlpool. Too fond or too proud to shrink from the 
danger, he proceeded to Lochlin to make preparations for the enterprise. Having 
consulted the sages of his native land, he was directed to provide himself with three 
cables, one of hemp,«one of wool, and one of woman^s hair. The first two were easily 
procured ; and the beauty of his person, his renown as a warrior, and the coorterr 
of his manners had so endeared him to the damsels of his country, that they cut on 
their own hair to make the third, on which his safety was ultimately to depend; for 
the purity of female innocence gave it power to resist even the force of the waves. 
Thus provided, the Prince set sail from Lochlin and anchored in the gulf. The 
first day the hempen cable broke ; the second day the woollen cable parted. There 
still remained the sift of the daughters of Lochlin. The third day came ; the time 
had nearly ezpired; his hopes were high ; his triumph was almost achieved ; but 
some frail fair one had contributed her flaxen locks ; the last hope failed, and the 
bark was overwhelmed. The Princess body was dragged ashore by a fiiithful dog, 
and carried to a cave that still bears bis name, in which the old men point out a littks 
cftim, where tradition says the body of Breaehkan was interred. From that time, as 
the legend tells, the whirlpool was called Corrivreachkan. 



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JURA. 537 

as of the Pentland Firth ; and if greater, they may still be avoid- 
ed, with similar precautions. But as this passage is seldom used 
by boats, and never by vessels, it has received, in addition to the 
exaggeration, the further ill character which attends all untried 
dangers. Had it been as necessary a channel as the Kyle Rich 
or Hoy Mouth, we should have heard far less of its horrors. Like 
those of the Mahlstrbm, they shrink before the boldness of a fair 
examination. The les^ding cause of the turbulence of the sea 
here, is the narrowness of this passage, with the constraint thus 
produced in the tide-wave. To this must be added a pyramidal rock 
rising with a rapid acclivity from the bottom, which is about a 
hundred fathoms deep, to within fifteen of the surface. The 
Mahlstrom is indebted for its whirlpools, to a rock precisely simi- 
lar^ at twenty fathoms. The course of the tide-stream is thus di- 
verted, so as to assume numerous intricate directions, as in the 
Pentland Firth ; while a counter-current or eddy being also pro- 
duced, chiefly on the Scarba side, the return of this into the main 
stream, produces those gyrations, resembling the wells of Swona 
and Stroma, which romance has magnified into a whirlpool cai5a* 
ble of swallowing ships. One of these appears more conspicuous 
than the others ; but, in smooth water, the whole stream is full of 
those whirling eddies so common in all similar tide-straits. 

" When there are wind and sea both, and more particularly 
when the former is opposed to the swell, or to the tide, or to both 
the danger then becomes real, as the water then breaks high and 
short in every direction, and with frightful violence. It is this 
short, breaking sea which might swallow up a vessel, unless every 
thing were well secured on deck ; not the whirlpools, which only 
impede the steerage. One vessel only, a foreigner, is remem- 
bered to have passed inadvertently through it at an improper time. 
From the alarm of the crew, she lost steerage, and became un- 
manageable ; but was thrown out into the eddy, and carried away, 
unharmed, along the Jura shore. I have seen both Hoy Mouth 
and Coryvrechan in gales of wind of equal violence : and, if I 
mistake not, the former was fully as terrific an object as the latter. 
The flood-tide runs through this gulph from the eastward ; and 
though the rapidity cannot be twelve miles in an hour, as it has 
been computed, it must be very considerable. The violence of 
the sea is also greatest with the flood, because of the general op- 
position of the western swell. In neap-tides, there is an hour or 
more of repose at the change ; and, in springs, about half as much. 



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598 ARGYLKSHIBE. 

At those times, and in moderate weather, even small boats may 
pas^ through without difficulty." 

Geology* — The prevailing rocks belong to the primitive ehss. 
The formations are mica^slate and quartz*roek, occanonaUy tra- 
versed by veins of trap or wbinsione and quartz. 

Zoo/(]yy*— -Game^ in all its varieties, abounds ia Jura from 
the stately red deer to the hmnble snipe* The bills abomid 
with red grouse, ptarmigan, green and grey plover, Uack* 
cock) and woodcock, in their season* Hares are numerous; 
pheasants and coveys of partridges, which have been lately intnn 
duced, are occasionally seen. Teal and wild ducks of every kind 
and name known to the writer, including the large Scotdi and 
eider-duck, frequent our bays and our lakes. There are sevenl 
flocks of wild-geese which haunt about Loch Tarbert. There 
are two kinds of eagles, the sea and the golden eagle. Martins^ 
polecats, badgers, and foxes, ei hoc genus omnei if they ever did 
exist, are now extinct in this paris^ Otters are numerous about 
the small Isles of Jura and the unfrequented shores of Tarbert. 

IL — Civil History. 

Land-owners and Heritors. — Colin Campbell, Esq. of Jura, is 
proprietor of all the island, excepting the property of Ardlussa, in 
the northern part of the island, which belongs to Captain McNeill, 
younger of Colonsay. 

Parochial Roisters, — The earliest entry in these registers is 
dated January I B 1 0. Those prior to that date were lost The poor's 
funds register bears the same date. From that period they have 
been regularly kept, with an addition since the year 1825, of an 
obituary and register of discipline, in which the proceedings of the 
kirk-session are recorded. The register of births and marriages 
in Colonsay bears an older date. 

Antiquities. — It were an endless task to enumerate the tumufi 
or cairns which are to be met with in this parish, by each of which 
*^ hangs a tale.'' Stones of immense magnitude, requiring the 
united efforts of such a number of men as could gather about 
them, to raise and place them in the perpendteular position in which 
they are now found, meet the eye, even in the most remote and 
unfrequented parts of the parish. The greatest number, however, 
are near the shore, and in the neighbourhood of safe landing 
places. The account given of them by the inhabitants is, that 
they are commemorative of feuds and battles between rival clans ; 
but these traditions are often so much at variance with each other, 



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JURA. 539 

that, without any written record to guide bitn, the writer finds 
the attempt would be fruitless to remove the obscurity in which 
they are involved. 

In digging the foundation of Lagg Inn some years ago, several 
stone-coffins were discovered, each containing calcined or half- 
burnt bones. In forming the line of road from Lagg to Feolin 
Ferry, many urns were met with by the workmen, each of them 
containing what appeared to be ashes. About 6fty years ago, a 
number of silver coins, T>f the reign of Charles I., was discovered 
on the farm of Sannaig in Jura. The value of this hoard, deposited 
only eighteen inches below thesurikce, could never be ascertained, 
the strictest secrecy having been maintained by the fortunate 
finder, who lost notinoe in converting it into modern currency. 
Specimens df these coins may now, or might lately be seen at Jura 
House. 

A few years ago, there was found in a peat moss on the farm 
of Ardfarnal, (five feet below the surface,) a complete specimen 
of the Caledonian Club, or Backuill — {Latine Baculum.) From 
its form and shape, it must have been a very formidable weapon, 
a powerful argummtum baculinum^ when wielded by an offended 
Highlander. 

The ruins of many chapels are still extant in this island ; their 
names, Kilmorie, Kilchianaig, Kilchattan, and Killearnadale, fur- 
nish indications of their having been built at a period, when the 
saints in the Romish calendar were held in higher repute than 
they are, at the present time, in the parish of Jura and Colonsay* 
III. — Population. 

Amount in ]8ai, 9007 

1811, . 1943 

1821, 2228 

1881, 2205 

1841, 2299 

The population of this parish is scattered over an immense sur- 
face. The people are separated from each other by gulfs, broad 
ferries, and dangerous 'estuaries, including the Linne Tharsing, 
Gulfs of Corivreckan and Bealach a Chumhainn Ghlais, dividing 
Scarba from the Island of Lunga. It is an amiable feature in the 
character of the parishioners, that, throughout the length and 
breadth of a parish of such extent, the minister, in his do- 
miciliary visits, is hailed and welcomed in every family with the 
utmost cordiality; that his diets of visiting, catechizing, and 
preaching have been regularly attended ; that even in the remotest 
districts and islands, his appeal on behalf of the moral and religi- 
ous instruction of their children has been readily responded to, by 

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540 ARGTLBSHIBE. 

tlie parents themselves, in poor circumstances, hiring teachers for 
the winter and spring months. 

By a census taken in 1835, the bland of 

Jura contained, malesi 596 ; females, 630 ; total, 122B 
Searba, . . 25 . 28 . 48 

Lunga, 10 . 14 . 24 

Belnahua, . 77 . 74 . 151 

Colonsay and Orooaay, • 899 

GarTelloch or Holy Island, . . 7 

Total, . . 2297 

IV. — Imduotrt. 

ImprovemeTits and Modem Buildings* — Since the publicatioQ 
of the former Statistical Account, much has been done in the way 
of turning waste and pasture lands to the very best advantage. 
Considerable sums of money have been expended in making sheep 
drains in hill and dale, by which means several extensive tracts of 
land, where nothing but stunted heath, sprits, and underwood was 
to be seen, now present an improved surface clothed with a ver- 
dant covering. Bridges have been constructed, comfortable farm- 
steadings erected ; and throughout the whole extent of the parish, 
sunk fences with whin, black and hazel thorn hedges, substantial 
and well built stone dikes, judiciously laid out, now intersect 
the Island of Jura* Judging from the progress already 
made, and from the zeal displayed by the principal proprie- 
tors in this work, it may not be too much to expect that, in a 
short time, the yearly value of the lands may be much enhanced, 
and the landlords amply remunerated for their outlays. Among 
the recently erected buildings in this parish, may be reckoned the 
additions made to the mansion-house of Jura,^»a complete set of 
offices and coach-houses, and a splendid mausoleum in the church* 
yard of Killearnadale, all designed and executed by Mr Bum, 
architect, of Edinburgh. On the property of Ardlussa in Jura, 
wliich belongs to Captam McNeill, an elegant and comfortable man- 
sion, with offices, has been built by his brother, the Right Hon. 
Duncan McNeill, Lord Advocate of Scotland, in a situation of 
great beauty, adorned by banks of natural wood, extending seve- 
ral miles, and by recent plantations of forest trees. A great deal 
has been done by the proprietor towards improving the property, 
not only at Ardlussa House, but by a lai^ extent of hilUdraining. 

Live 'Stock. — Horses, though generally small in size, are exceed- 
ingly hardy and active. The breed of black cattle, the staple com- 
modity of the country, is considered to be superior : it is rear- 
ed solely for the market, at which it meets a ready sale; 
much attention is therefore paid by landlord and tenant to the 



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JURA. 641 

icdproveineDt of it| the payment of their rents being made to de- 
))end upon the produce of their cattle ; but few of the tenants send 
corn to the mill, the produce of their harvest, (bear and potatoes 
excepted,) being for the most part expended upon their stock, dur- 
ing the months of winter and spring. There are from 1000 to 
1200 head of black-cattle annually sold out of the Island of Jura, 
one^half of these by the tenants ; average value, L. 5 Sterling. 
The other half consists of four-year-old stots and heifers, sold by 
Mr Campbell of Jura, and Captain McNeill, yoiinger of Colonsay ; 
average value at the present prices, L.10 Sterling. Previous 
to the year 1800, the Island of Jura was stocked with the small 
white-faced Highland breed of sheep, which was highly valued on 
account of the flavour of the mutton, and the superior quality of 
the wool; at that time, the black-faced breed was introduced, 
which in its turn is likely to give place to Cheviots, now prosper- 
ing in the extensive tenement of Tarbert 
. The quantity of grain annually sown in Jura may fluctuate be- 
tween 400 and 500 bolls of oats, and from 80 to 100 bolls of bear. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Harbour%. — There are two good road steads in the Island of 
Jura. DaiUghall in Jura, or Lowlandman's Bay, is a capacious 
basin, two and a-half miles in circumference ; its depth of water 
from five to six fathoms ; its entrance, which is at the south end, 
is in breadth above 570 yards. The other harbour in Jura is 
formed by four islands, and has thence obtained the appellation 
of Small Isles Harbour ; it is considered safe and convenient ; 
depth of water from four to six fathoms ; it is furnished with a sub- 
stantial quay. Besides these, there are several inferior road-steads. 

Villages. — Miltown, including Craighouse, is the only place 
possessing the character of a village in Jura« There is a corn- 
mill and smithy. Weavers, shoemakers, and other tradesmen, 
have of late years taken up their abode in it. Craighouse inn 
was rebuilt and enlarged about nine years ago ; and a distillery, 
capable of producing 720 gallons of whisky per week, was erected 
by Mr Campbell of Jura about the same time. 

Ecclesiastical State. — There are two parish churches, one in 
Jura and the other in Colonsay. The parish church of Jura, 
built about sixty-three years ago, was at first roofed in, furnished 
with doors and windows, seated in part, but never fully finished. 
For many years during the writer's incumbency, it was allowed to 
fall into a miserable state of disrepair. It is now otherwise, con- 



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542 ARGTLE8HIRE. 

siderable sums of money haying beeo expended upon it in the 
course of the last year. A spacious vestry^ a gallery and eomfort- 
able apartment for the accommodation c( the Jura fiunily, were 
Turnished, chiefly at the expense of Mr Campbell of Jura. The 
passages were paved with freestone slabs from the quarry of Air- 
dantallio near Oban. The interior of the church in Jura now ex* 
hibits such an air of comfort and elegance, as is surpassed by no ' 
other in the islands of Argyle* The aitdngs b both churehes 
are free. 

A new manse and office-bouses, with garden wall, were built 
last year, and are now occupied by the minister. 

The extent of the glebe is about nine acres Scotch measure. 
The soil, though poor, is not unproductiTe, the crops being forced 
by means of enormous quantities of sea* ware annually heaped upon 
it. Calculating by the average value of land in its neighbourhood, 
its value may be stated at L.10 per annum. 

The stipend is L, 200, burdened with the payment of L.50. 
yearly for an assistant in the island of Colonsay. The teinds are 
understood to be exhausted. The stipends are paid in money, — 
L.69 by the. Exchequer, the remainder by the heritors. Divine 
service in the church is generally well attended, many coming 
from distances of ten, twelve, and sixteen miles. 

Education. — The maximum salary is divided among three pa« 
rochial teachers^ two in Jura and one in Colonsay. The defect 
in the act 1803 anent parochial schoolmasters is, in this parish, 
amply provided against by the liberality of the prindpal heritor, 
Mr Campbell of Jura, who has expended a large sum of money 
in the erection of two commodious school-rooms, with aocomaioda- 
tion for the teachers and their families. He has also allotted to 
each a garden and a small pendicle of land, sufficient to maintain 
a cow and to grow potatoes to serve their families. There are 
besides, two schools upon the establishment of the Society for Pro- 
pagating Christian Knowledge, one in Colonsay, and the other 
in Jura. There are also three unendowed schools in the parish. 
Average income of the teachers, L. 12 per annum. The number 
of scholars attending all the schools, 347. 

Poor and Parochial Fundi. — The number at present upon the 
poor's roll is 22. They are divided into three classes, and relief 
proportioned to their necessities is afforded them. The amount 
collected at the church, for the last four years, varies from L.I2 
to L.14 Sterling. 



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JURA. 543 

Mr Campbell of Jurat aboiU four years ago, acted in itbe most 
Hberal and exemplary maoaer towards the poor reskieot upon 
hk pro])erty in tlius parish. At tliat tioae, lie idvested the sum 
of L.260 io the purchase of shares in the Edbburgh Gas Light 
G>mpaQy (old stock,) which yields at present a yearly dif idend of 
JmIj 10s. He has also, by liberal donations to the Royal' Infir- 
mary and Asylum of Glasgow, made these benevolent institutions . 
accessible to every poor and distressed patient residing on his pro- 
perty. Whatever additional sum is given for the support of the 
poor is supplied by voluntary contribution. 

Time was, and the period is not far distant, when a noble spirit 
of independence pervfMded even the lowest and the mo3t indigent 
class of the inhabitants of this parish ; when application for pa- 
rochial relief was considered by poor individuals as degrading. 
The writer is sorry to say, that this spirit seems to be &st dying 
away. 

Means of Communicatum, — There are three established ferries 
in the Island of Jura, each of them fornished with cpiays, and 
what is usually denominated slips, to facilitate the shipping and 
landing of cattle. Two of these communicate with the mainland. 
There is the ferry at Kenuachdrach, to Craignish ; the ferry of 
iiagg, to North Knapdale ; the ferry of Feolin, at the Sound of 
Islay, situated at the south end of Jura, and directly opposite 
to Portaskaig, in Isky. From Feolin Ferry to that of La^g, (a 
distance of seventeen miles) there is a Government road, which 
is kept in the best state of repair, and is of incalculable advantage 
to the island. Of late years, the attention of Mr Campbell of 
Jura has been directed to the advantages resulting from the erec- 
tion of bridges, and the construction of roads leading to the prin- 
cipal farms on his property; and good substantial roads, equal- 
ling the Grovernroent road, are either now finished or in pro- 
gress. 

The mail from Edinburgh, Glasgow, and other places is con- 
veyed over the Sound of Jura, and landed at Lagg, thence by a 
runner to Feolin Ferry, at the Sound of Islay. Letters from 
London arrive here in the short space of four days. There is a 
sub-oflBce or receiving-house for letters at Lagg. 

Inns cmd Public- Houses. — There are two licensed public-houses 
in Jura. Only a small pro)x>rtion of the means of the parish- 
ioners is now expended in the deleterious practice of dram-drink- 
ing^ and in spirituous liquors. Weddings, funerals, and pub- 



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^^^ ABGVLESHIUE. 

lie meetings, which at one period exhibited scenes of revel- 
ry and drunkenness in this parish, are now conducted in such a 
way, as to show a decided improvement in the habits of the people. 
Illicit distillation of whisky and other kinds of smuggling, which 
at one time were carried on to an alarming extent, are now all but 
suppressed. 

October 184a 



COLOMSAT AND OrANSAY. 

L— Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — These islands form one island when the tide retires, 
but are separated at flood-tide by an arm of the sea a mile broad, 
where it is usually crossed. At the point where they approach 
nearest, the islands are not above 100 yards apart. By the 
Highlanders, the name of Eilean tarsuing is given to the whole 
island, and it is so called with reference to its apparent position 
to the eye of the mariner, (tarsuing meaning irf Gaelic oblique) ; 
but the two islands are generally known under the names of 
Colonsay and Oransay. These names are evidently Scandi- 
navian, and signify the islands of St Coluinba and St Oran» 
a companion of St Columba's, well-known to tradition. Pre- 
viously to the occupation of the Western Islands by the Scan- 
dinavians, the larger island, (if not both,) seems to have 
been called Hymba. There b an old tradition, that St 
Columba had an establishment in Colonsay before he went to 
lona ; and as Adomnan, in his life of St Columba, frequently 
mentions Hymba as the name of an island in which the saint 
resided before he went to lona, and that Emanus, the Oran of 
tradition, was the first Abbot of the monastery he established 
there ; and as the smaller island is called the island of St Oran, 
and the old church in Colonsay was called Killoran, or Church 
of Oran, there seems little doubt of the identity. Colonsay may 
therefore boast of being the first of the Western Islands in which 
the Christian church was established. 

Extent — The Islands of Colonsay and Oransay are from the 
southern end of Oransay to the northern of Colonsay, about 12 
miles long and tfom 1 to 3 broad; the superficial contents are 
about 9000 Scotch acres, of which one-third are meadow or ara- 
ble ground. 



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COLONSAY AND ORANSAY. 545 

II. — Civil History. 

Land^otmers^^^John McNeill, Esq. of Colonsay, is proprietor 
of both islands. The McNeills have oow been in possession of 
these islands for nearly 160 years, — Doual McNeill, the 6rstpro* 
prietor of that name, having received them from the Duke of Ar- 
gyle in exchange for property in South Knapdale. The old pos- 
sessors were the M ^Duffies or M^Phies of Colonsay, who possess- 
ed it under the Lords of the Isles. The last of them, viz. Mal- 
colm M^Duffy of Colonsay, was put to death by Gillespie- M^Do- 
oaldy commonly called Colkitto, whose family possessed the island 
for two generations. 

Maniion'kouses.^^Theve are two mansion*houses. That of 
Killoran, in Colonsay, was built in 1722, on the site of the old 
Culdee estabUshment there : the present laird of Colonsay has 
added two wings, making a most comfortable house for the ac- 
commodation of a large iamily. The mansion-house at Oransay 
was built in 1772, and is a commodious dwelling-house. 

Antiquities. — There is in these islands one of the most exten-* 
sive and interesting remains of the monastic establishments in the 
Western Isles, viz. the ruins of the priory of Oransay. There 
was a Culdee establishment in the island, and, as we have reason 
to think, the first founded by St Columba. The priory of Oran- 
say was founded by the Lord of the Isles, and filled with regular 
canons brought from the Abbey of Holyrood, upon which abbey 
it was dependent. With the exception of those at lona, these are 
by far the finest of the ecclesiastical remains in the West High- 
lands. There is a church in which the tombstones of the ancient 
possessors of the islands are to be seen, considerable remains of 
the cloisters and of the monastic buildings usually attached to it, 
and near tlie church an ancient cross, part of the inscription oti 
which is still legible, and contains the words, ^^ Haec est Crux 
Colini Prior. Orisoi obiit m.dx. : : :*' The ruins are close to the 
mansion-house, and form a venerable and interesting feature in .a 
scene of wild and solitary beauty. 

In .a loch in Colonsay, there are the ruins of an old castle or fort 
upon an island in the middle of it, and to this stronghold the lairds 
of Colonsay used to retire, when threatened with danger. 
III.^ — Population. 

By the census Uken in 18d5 the population amounted to 839. 

IV. — Industry. 
Improvements.-'^ThQTe are, perhaps, few estates in Scotland on 

ARGYLE. M m 



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546 ARGYLESHIRB. 

which so much has been done in improvement, (and that by the 
exertions of one individual alone,) as the estate of Colonsay. The 
present proprietor, Mr M'Neill of Colonsay, (who retains the 
greater portion of the island in his own hands,) has not only turned 
the land formerly in tillage to the best account, but be has also re- 
claimed a vast e&tent of n^oors, hills, and peat mosses from a state of 
absolute waste to that of productive soil. He has introduced the im- 
proved system of husbandry, in the utmost latitude of theespression» 
into Colonsay, and his crops are among the best in the West of 
Scotland. Of late years he has drained a great extent of meadow 
land, and every year more of the barren land has been brought 
into cultivation, and several thousand roods of stone dikes have 
been built. 

No roads were made in Colonsay till the present proprietor 
commenced them, and the island is now intersected by an excel- 
lent road, made entirely at his expense, with the aid of the statute 
labour. Mr McNeill has thus, by judicious, persevering, and 
well-directed efforts, not only brought his estate into a high con- 
dition of cultivation and productiveness, but he has likewise much 
improved the condition of the small crofters, and afforded constant 
pccupation to a numerous and comfortable population. 

In addition to this, Mr McNeill has much improved his stock 
of black-cattle, and brought them to a degree of excellence which 
has never been surpassed. By good management and great at- 
tention to breeding, his stock are now the best in the market The 
bulls bear a very high value for breeding, and have sold for L.200. 
He breeds about 200 calves yearly, and winters about 1000. head 
of black-cattle. The principal exports, besides cattle, are bear 
and potatoes. Of the latter, Mr McNeill raises about 1000 bolla 
(4000 sacks) annually. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Harbours. — There is an excellent harbour in Colonsay, called 
Portnafeamin, where a substantial quay has been built by the 
proprietor, and Trom which a good road leads into the island. 
Rise and fall of tide fits it for repairing vessels of considerable 
burthen, and it is considered the best harbour for this purpose in 
the Hebrides. There are also two good road-steads ; one called 
Stursanaic and the other Coulismore, Cod-fishing is carried on 
to a considerable extent by the people of the island, and its banks 
are frequented by the fishing boats of Islay, Gigha, and Kintire. 
The flat fish on the banks nearer the shore is also abundant and 
of the best quality. 



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KILMARTIN* 547 

Mr McNeill has planted a considerable extent of ground; and 
the forest trees, especially the elno, ash, and sycamore, are in a 
very thriving condition. The alder trees about the garden at 
Colonsay House have attained a size unequalled in any of the 
neighbouring islands. 

Ecdesiastical State. — The islands of Colonsay aod Oransay 
have not been ecclesiastically separated from the rest of the pa- 
rish, but there is a permanent assistant at Colonsay, who was 
placed there by the exertions of the present proprietor in 1833. 
There is a good church, and the proprietor furnishes the assistant 
with a house and garden and other accommodations. 

InnSf <$*c. — Near the harbour is a small but neat inn ; and, at 
a short distance, the smithy. 

February 1844. 



PARISH OF KILMARTIN. 

PRESBYTERY OF INVERA.RY, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. DONALD MacCALMAN, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name* — The name of this parish is derived from Kill, which, in 
the Gaelic language, signiBes a buriaUplace^ and Martin, or St 
Martin, the patron saint to whom it was dedicated. 

This parish is situated about the centre of the district of Ar- 
gyle proper, and is nearly co-extensive with the ancient barony of 
Jriskeodnishf'^B. name signifying a shealing and sheltered vaMey 
wiih good pasture. The river which flows through the valley of 
Kilmartin, is still named the river of Skeodnish. 

In a direct line, Kilmartin is about 18 miles south-west of In- 
verary. The high road from Lochgilphead to Oban passes 
through the parish. It is 8 miles north-north-west of the former, 
and 29 south of the latter place. 

Extent and Boundaries^ Sfc. — The form of the parish is oblong, 
extending in length, from north-east to south-west, about 12 miles, 
and in breadth, about 3^ miles. It is bounded on the south- 
west by Loch Crinan, the northern entrance into the Crinan 
Canal ; on the north-west, by Loch Craignish and the parish of 



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548 ARGYLESHIBE. 

Craignish ; on the north-east, by the parish of Dalavich ; and on 
the south- east, by Lochawe and the parish of Glassary. 

Topographical Appearances. — The upper or north-east end of 
the parish stretches, for about five miles, along the north bank of 
Lochawe, and is much diversified by hill and dale. The land 
rises abruptly from the margin of the lake to the elevation of about 
1000 feet, and the descent is equally steep on the other side, 
vehere it marches with the parish of Craignish. Along the base 
of this range of hills, there is a thriving belt of copsewood, con- 
sisting of oak, ash, birch, hazel, &c, which, together with the 
projecting headlands, and rich^ verdure reaching to the very sum- 
mit, presents to the eye of the spectator a strikingly bold and 
beautiful outline, particularly in sailing along Lochawe. The 
same continuous ridge of hills — bounded by Craignish and Loch 
Craignish on the one side, and by the valley of Kilmartin on the 
other — extends westward about seven miles, until it terminates 
at Duntroon, near the entrance to Loch Crinan. 

Most of the higher eminences in this parish command remark- 
ably beautiful and extensive views, particularly Craiginterave^ or the 
Bull rock, about a mile west of the Ford of Lochawe — Benvan^ 
adjoining the hill of Kilmartin, which is 1200 feet above the level 
of the sea, commanding a view of Ben Cruachan, Benloi, hills of 
Glencrow^ Cowall, the coasts of Ayr and Kintyre, and the Island of 
Arran — the Cairn of Ducharoy on the property of Mr Campbell of 
Glenmore, which commands a view of the whole western coast, for 
about sixty miles. But undoubtedly the finest prospect which this 
district affords, is from the hill above Poltalloch, the ancient seat 
of the Malcolms of Poltalloch, on the south-eastern shore of Loch 
Craignish. The view from this point extends from the Island of 
Islay to the mountains of Mull, Morven, Kingarloch, and Appin. 
But it is not so much its extent, as the variety and picturesque 
forms of the objects seen within it, and especially the very happy 
manner in which they are grouped and placed before the eye, that 
constitutes the great charm of this splendid panorama. The coast 
is singularly indented with long peninsular ridges, and islands run« 
ning in the same north-easterly direction; thus forming a succes- 
sion of narrow inlets that give a peculiarly picturesque character 
to the scenery. One of the most remarkable of these, Loch 
Craignish, lies in all its length, immediately beneath the spectator. 
Its southern shore is steep and rocky, and for several miles is 
clothed with luxuriant woods, interspersed with full-grown trees. 



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KILMARTIN. 549 

and rocky cones, crowding upon each other, and presenting an 
endless variety of forms. The opposite coast being flatter, exhi- 
bits here and there smiling corn fields ; and is terminated by the 
plantations that enclose Craignish Castle, the seat of Mr Camp- 
bell of Jura. Parallel with the shores of Loch Craignish, lie se- 
veral islands, the two principal of which, Island Righ and Island 
Macasken^ both belonging to this parish, are pleasantly diversified 
with broken knolls and scattered woods, divided by little dells of 
the richest verdure. Numerous other islands and islet rocks, with 
creeks between, gleaming in the sun, occupy the centre of the 
picture; beyond which, in front of the spectator, rises the huge 
rounded mass of Scarba, separated from the sister island of Jura, by 
the far-famed gulf or whirlpool of Cotyvreckan, From this place, 
too, may be seen, along the extended line of coast, every variety 
of sea craft, from the stately ship under a cloud of canvass, to the 
slender skiff, floating like a sea-gull on the surface of the ocean, 
— each pursuing its devious course, or safely moored in some shel- 
tered bay, as wind and tide, or the will of the mariners, may de- 
termine. 

Indeed it is hardly possible to fancy a spot more suited to 
awaken the associations so forcibly expressed by the bard of Hope, 
who is said to have spent some of his early years in this immediate 
neighbourhood. — 

^* But who is he a dearer land 

Remembers, over the hills and far away ? 

Green Albin, what though he no more survey 

Thy ships at anchor on the quiet bay. 

Thy Pellockt* rolling from the mountain bay, 

Thy lone sepulchral cairn upon the moor, 

And distant isles that bear tiie loud Coryvreckan roar." 

Gertrude of Wyoming, V. 

Far to seaward, the low islands of Colonsay and Oransay appear 
across the gulf, and the view is closed to the left by the lofty 
and picturesque cones, named the Paps of Jura. To the right, a 
large portion of the Mull is seen, rising behind a multitude of 
smaller islands, such as Lunga, Shuna, Luing, Soil, Easdale, 
Garvallach, and Elachanove. Its very noble and well-shaped 
mountains form, perhaps, the most striking feature in the scene ; 
and the bold promontory with which its southern coast abruptly 
terminates, the Ross of Mull, is particularly striking. In the 
extreme distance to the north, a few blue summits mark the moun- 
tains of Morven, Appin and Glencreran. 

* The Gaelic appellation fur the porpoises. 

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650 ARGYLESHIRE. 

Such is a meagre detail of the principal objects seen from above 
Poltalloch ; but it is scarcely possible to convey an adequate idea 
of the picturesque forms, — the happy combinations and contrasts, 
— the beautiful play of tints and colours, which this view presents. 
The atmospheric changes, and the consequent variety of lights 
and shades over so vast a picture in so changeable a climate, in- 
vests it with a new charm, each time it is enjoyed. But at no time» 
perhaps, does it look more magnificent than in the depth of win- 
ter, when the mountains of Mull are covered far down their sides 
with a dazzlingly brilliant mantle of snow, giving to them an al- 
most Alpine appearance. 

Were this view better known, or if it lay more in the usual track 
of tourists, there can be little doubt it would be classed among 
the finest panoramas of its kind, that our Scottish Highlands can 
boast* 

The valley of Kilmartin may be traced from Loch Ederline^ 
about a mile from the west end of Lochawe. For the space of 
three miles westward to the village of Kilmartin, it is confined 
within a very narrow space, by two side long ranges of hills, rising 
in some places almost perpendicular from the base ; and, notwith- 
standing of several windings, maintaining their relative distance 
and elevation with singular exactness. At Kilmartin, it gradually 
widens into a level plain of from 5000 to 6000 acres, including 
the moss of Crinan, a considerable part of which lies in the ad- 
joining parish of Glassary. 

The rising ground on both sides of the valley of Kilmartin is 
tastefully ornamented with thriving plantations intermixed with 
open glades and green knolls, giving to the whole the appearance 
as well as the reality of a clothed and cultivated country. 

Geology, — The district in which the parish of Kilmartin is si- 
tuated, belongs geologically to the mica slate formation, and has 
been usually classed, (according to Dr M^CuIloch,) in that divi- 
sion of this extensive and intricate group of rocks, which is named 
chlorite slate. Chlorite slate is found in considerable abun* 
dance ; but associating and alternating with it are a number of 
rocks of very different texture and hardness, from the softest ar- 
gillaceous shale to the hardest hornblende slate. Occasionally, mica 
slate occurs ; but much more frequently the rock has a granular 
silicious character, and sometimes becomes purely quartzose* In 
short, the rocks, even within the confined district of this parish, 
offer examples of most of the varieties common to the mica slate 



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tClLMARTlN. 651 

family, while no order of succession, calculated to throw light oh 
this obscure class of rocks, is apparent. The hard hornblende 
slate, where found, is easily split into large slabs for building, &c. 
and no doubt rooBng slate might be obtained from the chlorite 
slate ; indeed a similar rock has lately been quarried with suc- 
cess on the banks of the Crinan Canal, just beyond the limits of 
the parish* As usual in the mica slate formation, limited beds 
.of crystalline limestone are met with in many parts, interstra- 
tified somewhat irregularly, within the slaty beds. They afford 
Ho trace of organic remains, but frequently seem to bear evidence 
of igneous action. The rock has sometimes quite a calcined ap- 
pearance, and fragments of the limestone are often observed lying 
some distance within the adjoining schist, as also fragments of the 
slate within the limestone. These calcareous beds occasionally 
contain more or less siles, but the purer varieties are extensively 
burned for building and agricultural purposes. 

The strata within this district are highly inclined, seldom less 
than at an angle of 45% much more frequently nearly vertical, as 
may be seen along the road near Kilmartin, also on the western 
shores of Lochawe and elsewhere. The dip is generally to the 
south-east; the strike^ with little variation, is north-east and south-^ 
west, or east-north-east and west-south-west. It may be con- 
cluded that this elevation of the strata is due to the action of the 
trap, which shows itself in many parts of the parish, as well as of 
the adjoining district. This intrusive rock sometimes appears in 
the form of vertical dikes twelve or fourteen feet in width, running 
often at nearly right angles to the strike of the sedimentary beds ; 
at other times, it is found in roundish irregular masses, and not 
infrequently is split in horizontal fractures, displaying an imper- 
fectly columnar structure. Whenever the neighbouring rock can 
be observed, it is almost always found to be much indurated near 
the trap, while occasionally the traces of stratification are so en- 
tirely obliterated, as to require a well-practised eye to decide whe- 
ther it belongs to hornblende slate, for instance, or basalt. . In 
conclusion, it may be observed, that the rocks in this parish pre- 
sent most of the varieties and phenomena common to the mica 
slate series elsewhere, while the area is too small to afford much 
opportunity of elucidating any of the difficulties that confessedly 
attach to this little known formation, which still requires the at- 
tentive study of our best geologists. These rocks, though appa- 
rently so hard, seem to decompose readily by the action of the 



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552 ARGYLKSHIRB. 

atmosphere, in consequence, probably, of the oxidation of the iron 
they so abundantly contain. The result is> that even the highest 
hills are covered with a deep rich friable soil, affording fine herb- 
age for the cattle and sheep, for which this district is so celebrated* 
Iron is not only found disseminated through the rooks, but occa* 
sionally also in the condition of a rich dark red ore, though not 
in sufficient quantities to authorize its being worked* The only 
mine within the parish that is known to have been opened, is one 
of copper, on the side of a hill, about a mile above Poltalioch* 
No very certain account of it can be obtained, but it is believed 
lo have been discontinued about a century ago.. Several of the 
shafts, adits, &c. still remain open, and from an examination lately 
made, it appears that the miners followed a vein of remarkably 
rich ore, (judging from the specimens picked up on the spot,) un- 
til it worked out at no great distance from the surface. Several 
thread-like veins of copper may still be traced along the walls of 
the passages, but they are too trifling to encourage the proprietor 
to incur the certain expense of ascertaining whether they may 
possibly lead to beds of more productive ore. 

There remain two comparatively modern deposits of too consi- 
derable interest to be passed over without notice ; although one 
of them (the peat*moss of Crinan) lies partly in the adjoining 
parish of Kilmicbael-Glassary. It is computed to extend over 
5000 acres, of which 8000 are in the parish of Kilmartin. This 
extensive peat-moss has been, for many years, under a course of 
drainage by its proprietor, — Mr Malcolm of Poltalloch, — so that 
its depth and composition are pretty well ascertained. It may be 
reckoned from 2 to 17 feet deep; average about 5 feet. A con* 
siderable part of it consists of what is called ^lo moss^ and has 
sunk, by draining, from 3 to 8 feet. Large roots of trees, princi- 
pally oak, alder, birch, and hazel, are not unfrequently found se- 
veral feet beneath the surface.. Below this mass of vegetable 
matter is found a bed of usually 6ne gravel, from 2 feet to 2^ feet 
in depth ; beneath which is a blue tenacious clay, the depth of 
which has never been ascertained. This clay abounds in beds of 
large muscles, cockles, &c., which seem to attest the former pre* 
sence of the sea ; and leave little room for doubt that the salt wa- 
ter must have once extended over this wide flat as far at least as 
Kilmartio, and the entrance of the valley of Kilmichael-Glassary* 

The other comparatively modern deposit, before alluded to, is 
a very remarkable succession of broad and elevated terraces, corn- 



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KILMARTIN. 553 

posed of rounded stones and gravel, and presenting a nearly unU 
foroQ level, which occupy the upper part of the valley of Kilmar- 
tin on both sides, but principally on the western. The village of 
Kilmartin itself is built on one of them. They may be traced for 
about seven or eight miles from the Castle of Carnassary down to^ 
wards the Bay of Crinan ; and, though they have here and there 
been partially washed away by lateral streams from the hills, they 
exhibit such general proofs of continuity, and uniformity of level, 
as force the conviction, that they owe their origin and form to the 
action of a large body of water. 

The average height of these singular terraces may be estimated 
at from 50 to 60 feet above the present level of the valley, to* 
wards which they dip at an angle varying from 80 to 45 degrees, 
with as much regularity almost as if dressed by art. The widest 
of them, in front of Lergie House, measures about 300 yards, at 
right angles to the valley. Wherever they have been examined, 
they are found to be entirely composed of rounded stones and 
gravel, mixed with a little soil. Many of the boulders are of very 
considerable size and great hardness ; but all are so completely 
rounded, as to prove they must have; been subject to the long-con- 
tinued action of water. The greater number of them perhaps are 
identical with the rocks of the neighbouring valley ; but others 
must evidently have been transported from a distance, especially 
some large blocks of a red syenitic porphyry, which would appear 
to have come most probably from the neighbourhood of Ben- 
cruachan. 

An examination of that part of the valley which extends from 
the ford at the west end of Lochawe to the village of Kilmartin 
affords very strong evidence, that this fine body of water formerly 
emptied itself by this passage into the Bay of Crinan. The bed 
and embankments of a large river may yet be traced in all its 
windings for several miles ; and it is worthy of remark, that, in 
three different places, where a mass of rock obstructed the direct 
course of the .current, a circuitous course has been scooped out for 
its passage in the opposite bank ; while, on the other hand, the 
lateral gorge at the foot of Bencruachan, by which Lochawe now 
discharges its waters into Loch Etive, bears as evident marks of its 
having been violently disrupted by some subsequent convulsion of 
nature. No ether considerable Scottish lake empties itself by a 
lateral channel so near its head or principal feeder ; whereas, the 
alteration of a very few feet of level would even now cause Loch- 



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65^ AROYLESHIRE. 

awe again to escape by its natural channel at the south-weatem 
end, after the manner of all other similar bodies of water. The 
terraces, therefore, above spoken of may surely, with great proba- 
bility, be attributed to the agency of this lake, during the fkr-dis- 
tant period when it passed through this valley into the sea, bring* 
ing along with it, and rounding in its course, fragments of the 
rocks found along its upper shores* The only other solution seems 
to be, either that these terraces are raised sea beaches^ which their 
height above the present sea level and the absence of marine shells 
seems to refute ; or that they may be attributed to the agency of 
primeval glaciers, which, it is supposed, even the most zealous advo- 
cates of that now fashionable theory would hardly assert, were they 
to examine the condition in which they are found on the spot. 

Zoology* — Black game, grouse, partridges, snipes, and wood- 
cocks (in their season) are abundant in the parish. Pheasants 
have lately been introduced, and are now becoming very nume- 
rous. Water-rails, Scotch duck, widgeon, teal, and other ducks, 
together with a variety of divers, and other sea-fowl, are plentiful 
along the coast and in Lochawe. Wild geese and swans occasion- 
ally visit the coast, during severe winter weather. The landrail is 
common in summer and harvest. Roes and hares are very plen- 
tiful, and have abundance of cover in the plantations. Foxes were 
formerly very numerous ; but, of late, their number has been very 
much diminished by trapping. Otters and seals are occasionallyTouod 
along the coast Badgers, wild cats, martens, polecats, and wea- 
sels are sometimes to be met with ; but not so frequently as for- 
merly. Rats, mice, and moles are very numerous. Adders and 
lizards are rarely seen. In the Bay of Crinan and Loch Craig* 
nish, herrings are taken both with nets and the fishing-rod, as 
also all the other kinds of fish common to the west coast. There is 
a very valuable salmon fishing at Crinan ; and the river of Add, 
which flows into Loch Crinan, affords excellent angling for salmon 
and trout. In Loch Ederline, char is very plentiful. Lochawe is 
celebrated for salmon and trout fishing. Oysters, mussels, and 
crabs, are found in Loch Craignish ; but they are now rather 
scarce. Fresh-water mussels, containing pearls of great value, 
have also been found in Loch Ederline. 

Botany. — Few or no rare plants are found in the parish. The 
woods and plantations in the parish cover a space of 1189 acres, 
and consist principally of ash, oak, birch, alder, hazel, Scotch fir, 



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KILMARTIN. ^55 

larch, silver 6r, elm, poplar, beech, plane, lime, and holly. The 
whole is in a very thriving state. 

II. — Civil History. 

The early history of this parish, like that of many of our High- 
land districts, is derived in a great measure from fragments of 
legendary tales, and a few scattered documents, more or less re"> 
lating to the parish, which tend to illustrate the ancient character 
and condition of the people. The old proprietors of the parish 
were the Campbells of Duntroon, the Campbells of Rassly, the 
Campbells of Kilmartin, the Malcolms of Poltalloch, the Mac* 
lachans of Craiginterave, the Campbells of Eleanree, the Camp* 
bells of Ormaig, the Campbells of Auchanellan, the Campbells 
of Barbreck, and the Campbells of Inverliver. With three excep- 
tions, (Malcolm of Poltalloch, Maclachlan of Craiginterave, and 
Campbell of Auchanellan,) all these properties have passed from 
their original owners, — and very few of their descendants are now 
to be found in' the land of their fathers. 

Bishop Carswell, one of the superintendent bishops appointed 
after the Reformation from Popery, and whose name is associated 
with the well-known controversy regarding the authenticity of the 
poemsof Ossian, resided at Carnassar; Castle, (now in ruins,) which 
stands on an eminence at the head of the valley of Kilmartin, an- 
ciently called Strathmore. * It is said that he was a native of 
Argyleshire, and educated at the College of St Andrews about 
the year 1548; that he 6rst obtained a presentation to the Bi* 
shoprick of the Western Lsles, and the Abbacy of Icolmkill, and 
that he was afterwards translated to the Bishoprick of Argyle, com- 
prehending Kintyre, Argyle proper, and Lorn, when he esta- 
blished his residence at Carnassary Qastle. He is reputed to have 
been a man of great piety and learning ; which, together with his 
wealth and official power, has made his name familiar throughout 
the Western Highlands. 

When the Highland Society of London were engaged in the 
controversy regarding the authenticity of the poems of Ossian, 
they sent their librarian, Mr Donald Mcintosh, to the Western 
Highlands in quest of evidence to disprove the assertions of Dr 
Johnson, Mr Hume, Mr Laing, Mr Pinkerton, &c. Mr Mcin- 
tosh found in the Island of Arran a religious Gaelic book, pub- 
lished by Bishop Carswell in 1560, dedicated to the EJarl of Ar- 
gyle. In his dedicatory letter in Gaelic, he introduces the names 

* See Kennedy's Tractit on the Reformation, &c. 



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556 ARGYLE9MIKE. 

of the two leaders who commanded the Fingalian armyj Fionn and 
GolL The former commanded the Irish tribes, the latter the Ca- 
ledonian. In this letter he expresses his sorrow *' that his people 
paid more attention to the idle tales and songs of Fionn MacCu- 
thail and Goll Mac Moirnna than to the word of God/* He 
died at Carnassary Castle in the year 1575, and ordered his re- 
mains to be deposited in the Priory of Ardchattan, about forty 
miles distant from Carnassary. The day of his interment was 
marked by a violent storm, which occasioned much distress to the 
great concourse of people who attended the funeral, carrying the 
bier on their shoulders, according to the custom of the times ; so 
that to this day, when there is a tempest of more than ordinary 
violence, there is a common saying among the people, ** there has 
not been the like since Carswell's funeral day." 

After the death of Bishop Carswelli Carnassary Castle became 
the property and occasional residence of the Campbells of Auch- 
inbreck, one of the most powerful families of their day in the 
whole county. In 1685, Sir Duncan Campbell of Auchinbreck 
joined the Earl of Argyle in the unsuccessful invasion of the Duke 
of Monmouth, when he entertained the Earl and his followers for 
some days at Carnassary Castle. Not long after the failure of 
that unfortunate undertakings Auchinbreck's estates in this and 
the neighbouring parishes were conGscated, and the property be* 
longing to himself, his tenants, friends, and vassals, was plundered 
by some of the neighbouring clans ; as will appear more fully from 
the subjoined curious document, one of the rescinded Acts of the 
Scottish Parliament.* 

* Unto my Lords Commiasionein, bis Gracei and tbe Estates of Parliament, the 
Petition of Sir Duncan Campbell of Auchinbreck, for bimself and his distressed 
friends, tenants, and vassals in Knapdale, Glassarj, and Kelislait; Humbly shew, 
eth, — That your petitioner haying, in anno 1685, taken arms with tbe deceased 
uoblc Earl of Argyll in defence of the Protestant religion, and in opposition to Po- 
perie and arbitrary power ; and your petitioner, by the singular care and providence 
of Almighty God, having, aAer a narrow search made for him, escaped the baods of 
his enemies, he was forfaulted of life and fortune, himself and family put to the great- 
est hardships ; all imaginable cruelty, rapine, violence, and oppression committed 
on his near relations, friends, vassals, and tenants ; and after capitulation and assur- 
ance given, no faith kept ; his friends killed and banged at his gates ; bis bouses 
burnt to ashes, all the goods secured by said assurance, robbed and taken away,— «U 
other unparalleled barbarities committed ; and more particularly, your petitioner hav- 
ing, from tbe sense of tbe justice and necessitie of the said £arl, bis undertaking* 
and for the defence of the countrie, caused man and garrison his castle of Carnasaaryt 
—the same was besieged, and in treatie for surrender, being in dependence, tbe 
deceased LachUne M^Lalne of Torlisk, Lauchlane M*Laine of Coll, M^Laine of Ard* 
gour, M*Laine of Kenlochalin, M'l^ine of Lochbuy, Donald M*NeiI of CoUachie, 
Archibald M*LachIan of Craiginterave, and M'Kechrnie in Kintyre, conlJe aiid 
sea lly, with their barbarous accomplices, did, in tbe first plac^, cause hang Dugakl 



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KILMARTIN. 557 

At the south-west extremity of the parish stands the Castle of 
Diiutroon, the ancient seat of the Campbells of Duntroon. Sir 

Mactavish, fiar of Dunardnrie, at the said Castle of Carnassarie, and iromediatelie 
afVer the surrender thereof, did barbarously murder Alexander Campbell of Strondour, 
the petitioner** uncle,-^and without any regard to any conditions of faith given, they 
did fall upon and wound about twentie of the soldiers of the earrison, plunder and 
Carrie away out of the said house three-score horse, led by goods and plenishing, and 
after all their cruelties and robberies, the said deceased Lauehlane M*Laine of Torlisky 
with his above-named followers and accomplices, did se( fire to the said house of Car- 
nassarie, and burn it to ashes,— and after all, your petitioner's estate being annexed 
to the Crown, the rents thereof were intromitted with, and uplifted hie William 
Stewart of Craigtown, as having commission from the Lord of the Shire, since the 
year 1685 to Martinmas 1669, and the same are yet in bis hands ; and during this 
space the saids friends, tenants, and vassals were, by the arbitrary exactions of the 
deceased Viscount of Strathallan, and Sir John Drumm'ond of Machooie, oppressed, 
leised, and damified in certain great soums of money. Lykeas the said Donald 
McNeil of Callachie and Archibald M'Lachlan of Craiginterave did intromit with, 
and Uke up out of the parochins of Knapdale, Kelislate, Glassrie, and Ariskeod- 
nish,* the number of 2000 kows belonging to the petitioner, his friends and te- 
nants ; and the said M'Rechrnie in Kintyre did seize upon the hail goods and pie- 
Dishing within the petitioner's house of Lochger, wherethrou your petitioner, his 
said friends, tenants, and vassals, are disabled, leased, and damified in the sums of 
money and avails following : viz. by the burning of the said house of Carnassary, in 
the sum of L. 20,000 Scou ; by the uking away of his said goods, as will appear 
by a particular list, in the soum of L. 12,000 money foresaid ; by his laying out of 
hit estates, intromitted with hie the said William Stewart, in the soum of L. 24,000 
money foresaid ; by the said arbitrary exactions of the said Viscount Strathallan 
and Sir John Drummond of Machonie, in the soum of L. 12,000 money foresaid ; and 
by the said Donald McNeill and Archibald M'Lauchlan of Craiginterave, their in- 
tromitting with and taking up of the said 2000 kows, in the soum of L. 40,000t money 
foresaid ; and hie the said M* Kechrnie, bis taking away of the plenishing of the house 
of Lochger, in the soum of L. 2000 money foresaid ; which damages and losses the 
foresaid persons, acters and committers of the cruelties, robberies, and oppressions 
above written, and the representatives of such of them as are dead, ought and should 
repare and restore to your petitioners, and their estates made liable in payment 
thereof; and in regard your petitioners are greatly disabled thereby,-— necesaitie and 
justice calls for speed ie relief. 

May it therefore please your Grace and i^ordsbips to grant warrant to cite the 
foresaid persons, and the representatives of so many of them as are dead, and their 
tutors and curators, if they any have, to compear before this honourable Court of 
Parliament at such dytes as your Grace and Lordships shall think fit ; and in case of 
not sitting, to nominate and appoint some of your Lordships' number, who shall cog- 
Dooe and finallie denounce and determine the said matter, to hear and see the said 
damages proven ; and the^ decerned to make payment thereof in manner above writ- 
ten ; and in regard there is no access to cite them personally, nor at their dwelling- 
places, to grant warrant to cite them at the mercat-cross of Edinburgh, or the shire 
in which they lie ; — and to cite witnesses,— and your petitioners shall ever pray. 

(Signed) ' Duncak Camfbsll. 

Their Majestie's High Commissioners and the Estates of Parliament having beard 
this petition, doe grant warrant-order to messengers, massers, messengers-at-arms, to 
cite the persons condescended on in the petition, and the representatives of such of 
them as are dead, to compear before them within fiAeen days after the charge, with 
coDlinuation of days, to answer to this petition, in case the Parliamient be sitting t— 
or otherwise, before the Commission appointed by an Act of this Parliament, entitled 
** Act for rescinding fines and forfeitures,** to wh^h Commission they remit, to hear 
the parties,«»to take trials and probation upon the poynts of the complaint^— and 
to report to the next session of this or other ensuing Paiffament— and grant warrant 



* Kilmartin. 

t From this it would appear that the price of a cow was then estimated at L«Iy 
Ida. 4d. sterling :— -the average price may now be valued at L.8 sterling* 



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558 ARGYLESHIRE. 

Neil Campbell, late jjrovernor of Sierra Leone, and son of the last 
proprietor, was born at Duntroon* A handsome marble tablet is 
erected to his memory, and another to the memory of his father, 
in the church of Kilmartin, by his surviving brother. Lieutenant" 
Colonel Patrick Campbell, R. A., late British Consul at Egypt. 
This castle withstood the ravages of the celebrated Coll Macdo- 
nell, alias Cotta Cioiach^ t. e. left-handed Coll, and his followers, 
when be invaded Argyleshire. 

The general account given of this desperate and ambitious man 
is, that either his father or grandfather had carried off a daughter 
of the Earl of Argyll, whom he married. Payment of her dowry 
having been refused by Argyll, in consequence of her elopement, 
and her having married a person below her rank, without consent, 
Coll applied to his namesake and chief, the Earl of Antrim, for 
assistance to enforce his claims. Antrim, who bore no good will 
towards Argyll for joining the Covenanters, and on account of 
other private quarrels, aided Macdonell by raising 8000 men in 
Ulster to invade Scotland, but in particular Argyleshire. With 
this force he landed in Kintyre, and proceeded northward, de* 
stroying the residences, and pillaging the property of every Camp- 
bell that lay in his way, with the exception of one, viz. Campbell 
of Auchanellan in the parish of Kilmartin, whom he spared on ac- 
count of his being a minister of the Established Church. From 
Castle Sween he proceeded by sea with his forces towards the Bay 
of Crinan, intending to attack and destroy Duntroon Castle. He 
sent his piper forward by land, in order to procure information. 
The piper was admitted into the castle, when he found, by the 
narrowness of the stair-case, that only one person could enter at a 
time to attack the place, and that it was otherwise sufficiently 
strong to repel the invaders ; and being himself suspected, he was 
confined to one of the upper turrets of the castle, where, seeing 
MacdoneU's forces* approaching, he contrived to warn him of the 
danger of making the attack, by playing on his bagpipes the well- 
known pibroch, 

to meMengers to cite witncflies to the effect foresaid ; and in regard there is no tmimt 
access for citing the persons complained of personallie, or at their own dweOing- 
places, it is hereby declared that a citation at the market-cross of the head bur;^ of 
the 8hire> within which their ordinary is— shall be suflBcient. 

(Signed) CaAWPomo, C 
By a separate list of depftedations given in at the same time, it appears that not 
only the Laird of Auchinbreck, but likewise the fimailies of Inferlivar, Kilmartin, 
Poltalloch, Rassly, and Duntroon, together with a number of others in the ndgfa- 
bouring districts, were suljected to the same wholesale plunder by the aboTe-muned 
parties. 

4 



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KILMARTIN. 559 

A cholla mo run Beach tin ao ttir, seaeh an ab tur, 
A cbolla mo ghaoil seachan an caol seacban an caol» 
Tba mue an laimh ; tha miae an laimb.— i. e. 
Dearest Coll, sbun the Tower, ahun the Tower; 
My beloved Coll, sbun the Sound, shun the Sound ; 
I am in hand, I am in hand, or, I am a prisoner. 

This warDing was understood by Macdooell, who, finding that 
Duntroon Castle was impregnable, left his faithful piper to his 
fate, and with his forces proceeded northward, along the strath of 
Kilmartin towards Athnacra^ near the ford of Lochawe, destroy- 
ing and plundering every thing in his way on the estates of Dun- 
troon, Rassly, and Kilmartin, and carrying away all the cattle, 
with the exception of one dun cow that happened to escape his no- 
tice, being hid in a thicket of birch in a hollow below Kilmartin. 
This cow is still known by the natives by the name of Bo-Mhaol 
oihar Achabhean, i. e, the humel dun cow of Achaven. It was 
this cow, by her lowing for her calf, which had been carried away 
with the rest of the cattle of the Strath, that is said to have 
sounded the first note of lamentation and wailing among the inha* 
bitants, when they ventured from their hiding places in the hills, 
to behold ^he destruction of their dwellings, and the devastation 
of every thing valuable that belonged to them. 

Duntroon Castle has been put into a complete state of repair by 
the proprietor, Mr Malcolm of Poltalloch, so that it is now a com- 
fortable residence, and cannot fail to attract the notice of a stran- 
ger in passing through the Crinan Canal. 

On the bank immediately to the north of the village of Kil- 
martin, stand the ruins of the old castle of Kilmartin, anciently 
the residence of the rectors of Kilmartin. The descendants of 
one of them, the Campbells of Auchanellan, still retain the heredi- 
tary property in the parish, and the ancient Caibeal or burial-place 
of the rectors in the churchyard of Kilmartin ; and the family are 
sometimes called by the natives Slioch an Easbuig^ u e. the de- 
scendants of the Church Superintendent. 

Lajid-oumers. — There are seven land-owners, viz. NeiU Mal- 
colm, Esq. of Poltalloch ; Colin Bell Maclachlan, Esq. of Craigin- 
terave ; Captain Donald Campbell, R. N. of Barbreck ; the Rev. 
Dugald Campbell of Auchanellan ; John Campbell, Esq. of Glen- 
more ; Mrs Campbell of Askenish ; Mrs Johnston of Dunchol- 
lagin. 

Parochial Registers. — The earliest date in the kirk-session rer 
cords is the 25th May 1691. Down to 1751 it is imperfect; 
from that date to the present time, it has been regularly kept 



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560 ARQYLESHIRH. 

The earliest date in the register of baptisms and marriages is 
1747 ; but the record is very imperfect down to 1774. From tbe 
latter date to 1819, there is no record of baptisms and marriages 
extant. From 1819 to the present time, it has been r^[ularly 
kept. 

Antiquities. — Along the valley of Kilmartin, and in some other 
parts of the parish, there are a number of large circular cairns of 
stones. Some of them have been explored and found to contain 
stone coffins about four feet long by two broad, so that tbe body 
must have been doubled up or burned, and the bones and ashes 
deposited in them. The latter supposition is the more likely, as 
urns or earthen vases rudely ornamented, and containing a small 
quantity of red ashes, are generally found at the one end of the 
coffin, and human bones of a larger size than such as are now com- 
monly met with, are deposited in the centre. A few silver coins, 
and one in particular, bearing the name of Ethelredy has been 
found in one of those stone coffins ; and in another a spear head 
about ten inches long, composed of a mixture of brass and iron ; 
as also a polished stone shaped somewhat like a battle-axe, which 
seem to indicate that some of the persons whose remains have been 
there deposited, were men whose ** trade was war" Contiguous 
to these cairns are occasionally to be found open circles of stones 
placed on end, and large single pillars of stone standing upright, 
from nine to twelve, and a few to the height of seventeen or eight- 
een feet above ground. 

Various opinions are entertained regarding the origin of these 
rude monuments of antiquity, which, like the Egyptian pyramids, 
have outlived the names and events they were doubtless designed 
to commemorate. Some think that they have been the work of 
the Druids; while others, with more probability, believe that this 
extensive plain must at some distant period have been tbe scene 
of a succession of bloody contests between the natives and some 
invading tribes, and that these monuments were raised by the 
survivors, to the memory of those who had fallen in battle. Tbe 
name of the district, too, of which the valley of Kilmartin is 
nearly the centre, viz. Aragaidheal^ — i. «., the battle-field, or 
slaughter of the Gael,-^seems to favour the latter supposition. 

At Ardafure, near Duntroon, there is a remarkable ancient 
circular building, enclosing a considerable space of open ground 
within. The wall is of great thickness, having one narrow entrance, 
and apparently a covered way in the centre. It is supposed to 



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KILMARTIN. 561 

have been built as a place of safety for the cattle and other pro- 
perty of the inhabitants, to which they were sent when any danger 
was at hand. 

Modern Buildings. — Kilmartin House, the residence of NeiU 
Malcolm, Esq., of Poltalloch, the principal heritor in the parish, 
is about half a mile to the north-west of Kilmartin. 

The church of Kilmartin was erected in 18d5. It is an ele- 
gant Gothic building, of an oblong form, having a square tower 
at the end, with front and side galleries supported by hewn stone 
pillars, and surmounted with Gothic arches to correspond. The 
internal arrangements are very complete, and afford comfortable 
accommodation. 

The. manse, which is contiguous to the church, was built in 
1789. It is now in a very decayed state. 

The village of Kilmartin has been entirely rebuilt and re- 
modelled within the. last few years. Instead of the rude and ill- 
assorted thatched cottages," all of which are now removed, the 
proprietor has put down substantial slated cottages, having garden 
and shrubbery ground enclosed and railed in for each, the whole 
having an air of neatness and comfort formerly unknown in this 
part of the country. 

A considerable number of similar slated cottages, and some 
commodious farm steadings, have been recently built in other 
parts of the parish, for the accoQimodation of the tenants, trades* 
people, and labourers on the Poltalloch estate. 

III. — POPULATIOK. 

In 1755, according to Dr Webster's account, the population 
amounted to 1150. 





Males. 


Females. 


Total. 




In 1795, 


760 


777 


1537 




1801, 


734 


767 


1501 




1811, 


680 


773 


1458 




1821, 


744 


748 


1492 




. 1831, 


736 


739 


1476 




1841, 


611 


602 


1213 




No. of families. 


• 


, 


. 


220 


Do. under 15 yean 


of age. 


. 


. 


507 


Do. from 15 to 90, 




. 




293 


Do. from 30 to 50, 


, 


. 


• 


239 


Do. from 50 to 70, 


. • • . 


. 


• 


130 


Do. upwards of 70, 


» 


• 
^ • * __ 


J C[ 


44 



Do. ofunmarried men, bachelors and widowers, upwards of 50, 20 
Do. of unmarried women upwards of 4^ • 38 

Abstract of births and marriages for the last seven years : — 

Births. 
Tear. Males. Females. Total. Marriages. 

1837, 16 19 35 18 

1838, .23 29 42 8 
ABGYLE. N n 



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562 





ARGYLBSHIRB. 








Births. 






Year. 


Males. 


Females. 


Total. 


Marriages. 


1830, 


17 


16 


38 


icr 


1840, 


9 


14 


23 


11 


1841, 


16 


15 * 


31 


9 


1842, 


16 


14 


30 


14 


1843, 


11 


14 


25 


8 



Ayerage, 15| 17<^ Slf llf 

Number of illegitimate children bom in the parish during the 
last seven years, 7. 

The decrease of population has been caused, !«/, By emigra- 
tion to North America; 2c4 The joining of two or more posses- 
sions together, and letting the whole to one tenant; Sd, The 
principal heritor in the parish having taken several large farms 
into his own hands, for the purpose of improving the same* 

There are two blind old women, paupers, belonging to the 
parbh, but not residmg in it There are no insane, fatuous, deaf 
or dumb persons in the parish, or belonging to it. 

The Gaelic language is spoken, and preferred by all the natives 
as the medimn of communication ; but from their intermixture with 
strangers, and the facility of intercourse with th« low country, it 
is fast losing ground, particularly among the young people. 

The introduction of new slated cottages, and the prizes given 
by the Highland Society for the neatest and best kept houses and 
gardens, have already effected a eonsiderable improvenaent in pro- 
moting a taste for cleanly habits, and shows how much may be 
done in this respect, if the means and eDcouragement were af- 
forded. Their clothing is {dain, but comfortable ; and in general 
they are intelligent, moral, and religious. Drunkenness and quar- 
relling is now, comparatively speaking, a matter of rare occur- 
rence. Poaching and smuggling have been entirely, or almost 
entirely, suppressed* 

IV. — Industry. 

No. of males employed in agriculture as farmers, • 52 

Do. of farm servants and shepherds 20 yean and upvards, 43 

Do. of do. do. from 15 to 20, 24 

Do. of cottars, 40i— crofters, 9, . . 49 

Agricultural labourers, .... 50 

Tradesmen, 47— apprentices, 6, .52 

Boys employed in herding, ... 28 

Female servants, .39 

AffricuUure, — Great improvements have been made in the 
draining^ cultivating, and subdividing of the arable and pasture 
land in the parish, within the last forty years, as well as in the 
mode of farm management and husbandry, particularly on the 
Poltalloch estate. Tile draining is now practised by Mr Malcolm 



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RILMARTIN. 568 

on a large scale ; and for that purpose a tile»work has been erected 
in the valley of Kilmartin, where suitable clay is found in abun- 
dance. Under the judicious management of Mr Gow, the super- 
intendent of improvements on the Poltalloch estate, about 1500 
acres have already been drained, 700 of which are now under 
cultivation or pasture, and from 700 to 800 more prepared for the 
plough, which, from total, or nearly total unproductiveness, is 
made to yield an average yearly return of L.1, 5s. per acre. I'he 
expense of these improvements may be rated at L.8 to L.9 per 
acre. Two thousand acres more of the same description of waste 
land yet remain to be reclaimed ; but from the systematic and ex- 
tensive operations carried on by the proprietor, the time may not 
be very far distant when the whole of this magnificent flat will be 
prepared for the plough, the sickle, and the scythe. 

Potatoes and turnips are extensively cultivated, for both of 
which the soil and climate seem to be well adapted. Oats, bear, 
and barley are also grown, but for these the climate is not so fa- 
vourable. 

Live-stock. — The common breed of cattle is the West High- 
land, to which much attention is paid. The Ayrshire, Galloway, 
and Durham breeds have been partially introduced, and seem to 
thrive, when proper care is bestowed on them. 

The black-faced Highland sheep is common in the parish, and 
is by much the most hardy breed for enduring the inclemencies 
of the winter, and subsisting on the hill pasture. The Cheviot, 
Leicester, and South Down breeds have been introduced, and 
fatten kindly on good pasture. An Association for encouraging 
the improvement of the different breeds of cattle and sheep, as 
well as for agricultural and horticultural produce, is established in 
the district, and has already been productive of niuch good. 

Produce, — 

Number of acres arable. 
Do. meadow, 

Do. pasture* 

Do. woods and plantations, 

Totol, - 24,629 

Yearly Qrou Returns.'^ 

8600 sheep grazing, valued at 28. 6d. each, • L.1075 

1976 cattle of all ages, averaged at L.2 each, - 9952 
Horses not valued, being used for agricultural work. 

Oats, 17,556 bnsbela, at 28. 3d. . • - 2194 10 

Bear, 276 bushels, at 8s. - - - '^^ ? 2 

Potatoes, 1897 tons, at L.1, 5b. each, - - 1786 5 

Turnips, 700 tons, at 10«. - - 350 

Carryover, L.9d49 3 

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564 AROTLESHIBE. 

Brought OTer, L. 9849 3 

Hay, 26,000 tOM, at 7d. per stone, - - 756 6 8 

Wool, 139S stones, at 6b. per stone, - 417 18 O 



Total, . L. 10,525 7 8 



Real rental, . - - - U5101 O 9 

Valued reuty - - - 027 O 

WageB. — The rates of labour are, viz. farm-labourers, from 8s. 
to 9s. per week in summer, and 7s. in winter ; ploughmen, with 
board, about L.12 a-year; shepherds, with board, from L.IO to 
L.12; maid servants, with board, for house and farm work, about 
L.6 a-year ; tradesmen, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. per day. 
V. — Parochial Economy. 

There are four yearly markets held in the parish, viz. two at 
Kilmartin on the first Thursday. of March and the fourth Thurs- 
day of November, principally for horses, engaging servants, and 
settling, of all country transactions ; and two at the Ford on the 
first Thui^day of August and the first Thursday- of September, 
principally, for .horses; besides which, considerable sales are made 
of lambs, sheep, and wool, though none are exhibited. 

There is a private runner from Kilmartin to the post-ofiBce at 
' Lochgilphead, every day, Sunday excepted, where there is a daily 
arrival and despatch. 

There is also a .regular steam communication between Loch- 
gilphead and Glasgow, and the intermediate ports, once a-day in 
winter, and twice every week-day in summer and autumn. 

The road from Lochgilphead to Kilmartin is kept in excellent 
order, a large outlay having been expended on the improvement 
of it within the last few years. . 

Locbcrinan is a good harbour and affords safe anchorage ; it is 
.much frequented by vessels in stormy weather. 

Ecclesiastical Sto^.-r-The parish church is situated about four 
miles from the south-west extremity of the parish, which is the 
most populous part; and eight miles from the north-east end, 
where there are only a few sheep farms, which are thinly peopled. 
Upon the whole, the situation of the church is the most eligible 
that could be selected. It affords sittings for 520 ; the accommo- 
dation is most comfortable. Gaelic and English are preached 
every Lord's day, and the people generally attend well when the 
weather is moderate. All the sittings are free. The average 
number of communicants for the last seven years is 168. 

There are two families Baptists in the parish, and six families 
Separatists, some of whom occasionally attend the church, but are 
not members of the congregation. 



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. KILMARTIN. 566 

The first Presbyterian minister settled in the parish was Mr 
Donald Campbell in 1639. He was one of the Campbells of 
Aucbanellan. He was succeeded by Mr John Duncanson in 1655. 
— The next incumbent was Mr William M^Lachlan, an Episco^ 
palian, who died about the year 1686. A tablet bearing hi^s name 
and that of some of his family, together with the fore-mentioned 
date^ is still extant in the churchyard of Kilmartin. — Mr Dugald 
Campbell was ordained and admitted minister of Kilmartin by the 
synod of Argyle, on the third of January 1690. — Mr Duncan 
Campbell, transited from the parish of Kilchrenan, was settled at 
Kilmartin on the dd June 1724, and died on the 28th September 
1736. — Mr Archibald Lambie, his successor, was ordained and 
admitted minister of Kilmartin on the i2th July 1738, and died 
in 1767.— On the 9th August 1768, Mr Hugh Campbell, trans- 
lated from the parish of South Knapdale, was. settled minister of 
this parish. He was one of the Campbells of Islandree, and died 
1st February 1803. — His successor, Mr Hugh Dewar, was ad- 
mitted minister of the parish on the 17th April 1804, and died 
19th April 1836. — The present incumbent was ordained and ad- 
mitted on the 28th September 1836. 

The glebe is four and a half acres arable, with the grazing of 
four souras on the farm of Kilmartin, in lieu of which, the pro- 
prietor gives a piece of land contiguous to the glebe. The whole 
may be valued at L.15 Sterling yearly rent. 

The niodified stipend is twelve chalders, half meal, half bear, 
with L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The teinds are not 
exhausted. 

Education. — The parish school is situated at Kilmartin, near 
the church. The schoolhouse and schoolmaster's dwelling-house 
are under one roof, and are very commodious and comfortable. 
The salary is L.34, 4s. 5d. Sterling, with L. 2, 15s. 7^d., being 
the yearly interest of a sum mortified by the late Alexander 
Campbell, Esq. of Kilmartin, in support of the parish school. 
The branches usually taught, are English and Gaelic reading, 
writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping. Geography and naviga- 
tion, as also Latin and Greek, are occasionally taught. There 
are, besides, two schools, one at each extremity of the parish,- for' 
the accommodation of the younger children who are unable, from 
the distance, to attend the parish school. Both the teachers of 
these schools receive a yearly allowance from Mr Malcolm of- 
Poltalloch, in addition to the school fees* 

A girl school of industry has lately been established by Mr 



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566 ARGYLBSHIRE. 

Malcolm of Poltalloch, within a mile of Kilmartin, for the benefit 
of the children of the tenants and people on his estate. The chil- 
dren of some of the people from the neighbouring properties are 
also allowed the benefit of attending. In addition to the ordinary 
elementary branches of education, the children are instructed io 
all the useful varieties of needle-work ; knitting, laundry work, fcc* 
This school, though only in operation for a few years, has already 
proved a great boon and blessing to the children of the district ; 
and promises, from the judicious manner in which it is conducted, 
to afford lasting benefits to the rising generation. The school- 
house has been erected at an expense of from L. 800 to L. 1000 
Sterling ; besides which, Mr Malcolm gives from L. 70 to L. 80 
a-year for education in the parish, in addition to his legal obli* 
gations. 

There is a library about to be formed for the use of the people 
on the Poltalloch estate, in this and the neighbouring parishes. 

A savings bapk has been established in the parish in connec- 
tion with the National Security Savings Branch Bank at Loch- 
gilphead. 

Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid 
is about 26 ; and the average sum allotted to each per year, about 
I<«.1, 10s. All the poor on the Poltalloch estate are allowed a 
monthly supply of meal according to their circumstances ; and all 
who apply for work, such as knitting, spinning, &c. are paid therefor. 

There is one inn and two change-houses m the parish, viz. the 
Inn of Kilmartin, which is well kept, and two public houses at the 
Ford, which are more orderly and better provided than formerly. 

The moss of Crinan affords abundance of turf for fuel. Coals 
are generally used by all who can afford to purchase them, being 
cheaper and more comfortable than peat, according to the present 
rate of labour. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
This parish, in common with the surrounding district, has un- 
dergone a great change in the way of improvement, within the last 
fifty years. Instead of the rude-formed wooden plough drawn by 
four horses all abreast, and the driver with his face to the horses going 
backwards, as there described, the well-modelled and neatly con- 
structed iron plough, drawn by a pair of horses, and easily managed 
by one naan, performs double the work, and doubly better done, in half 
the time. Instead of the stated number of days' work exacted by 
the proprietors from their tenants, crofters, and cottars, as servi- 
ide, in addition to the money rent, which was generally perform- 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 567 

ed in the most slovenly and irregular manneri with implements 
the most unsuitable, and which was generally called for when they 
had most to do at home; day's wages are now paid^ regular 
hours for work are kept, and proper implements employed. The 
old fences, constructed partly of stone and partly of turf, which 
were kept up in a hanging and standing condition, and requirod 
a thorough repair every year, are replaced by substantial stone 
dikes with stone coping. The practice of letting farms to four 
or eight tenants in common, the evils of which are well known, is 
almost entirely discontinued ; and the advantages of subdivisions, 
and a regular rotation of cropping, are fast developing in the im- 
proved condition of the land, and stock fed thereon. The absence 
of middlemen or gentlemen farmers, who would be admissible to 
the society of the landlord, and, at the same time, share in the 
sympathies of the people, is sensibly felt in thb and the adjoining 
districts. Wherever this link between the upper and lower classes 
has been found wanting, ^throughout the Highlands, jealousy, 
distrust, and discontent are almost always found to prevail, what- 
ever other means may be used to promote the well-being of the 
people. 

March 1844. 



UNITED PARISH OF 

DUNOON AND KILMUN.* 

PRESBYTERY OF DUNOOK, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 



I. — TOPOGEAPHY AND NaTUUAI. HisTORY. 

The united parish of Dunoon and Kilmun, in the county of 
Argyle and district of Cowal, lies on the northern side, or, as our 
Lowland neighbours term It, the Highland side of the Frith of 
Clyde. Strictly speaking, its sea-shore boundary forms the north- 
ern coast of that frith only from the point of Strone, in Kilmun 
parish, to the point-of Toward, in Dunoon parish, this range also 
embracing the arm of the sea called the Holy Loch. From the point 
of Strone, the coast line of the parbh runs along and forms the west- 
ern shore of Loch Long, extending nearly to the entrance of 
Lochgoil, where.tbat arm of the sea branches off from Loch Long : 
and from the point of Toward, its coast line, to the parish boundary 
iq that direction trending north-westward, forms the eastern shore 

* ComBunicated by Her. M. Mackay, LL. D., late mioister of the Uoite^ Parisb^ 

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5^8 ARQTLESHIttB. 

of the frith or channel separating the Island of Bute from Argyle^ 
shire. The village of Dunoon lies about 31 miles westrnorth-west 
from Glasgow, and about 10 miles, more directly westward, from 
GreenocL 

Name. — In the Gaelic language, the word Aaidh signifies a 
jtranger or gue$L : its plural is Aoidhea ; and there is no etymolo- 
gical conjecture on the subject perhaps more natural than to sup- 
pose, that the name Dunoon originatisd in its being denominated 
thus in Gaelic, DAn-nan^oidheath or Ddn^awdhean^ the Dud or 
place r^orted to by strangers or guests. Its modern pronunciation 
in Gaelic does not, at least, contradict this theory, which also receives 
.additional confirmation, if it be thought, that, in such ancieDttimes> 
the region of Argyle was considered worthy of being subjected to 
hostile or predatory incursions frotn thd lowland regions opposite ; 
and that in those times, whatever was the fencible force on *Ube High- 
land side'' of the frith would be here assembled, to ward off such 
attacks, or to watch them. It may be also observed, that the ob- 
ligation of maintaining a ferry at this point across the Frith of 
Clyde, forms a part of the feudal tenure by which a neighbouring 
proprietor holds certain of his lands. Another theory on this 
point, and only confirmatory of this one, will be offered when the 
antiquities of the parish come under review. 

As to the name Kilmun; it must be left to controversial etymo* 
legists to determine whether the word Kil be merely the Latin 
CeUa^ or a primitive Celtic term signifying death or Vie grave. 
There is no doubt, that, from an early period, the place now call- 
ed Kilmun had its place of worship and of burial. The writer 
professes no such acquaintance with the Romish calendar of saints 
as would entitle him to deny that a St Mund, Munde, or even 
Mun may have had even here ** a local habitation and a name" long 
before the proprietor of a Glasgow steamer, connected with the 
place, made his vessel to bear the name St Mun. The existence 
of the saint is considered doubtful ; and, should it even be proven, 
it does not by any means follow that his existence, or even his 
merits, can establish the real signification of the name. In Gae- 
lic, it is invariably pronounced CilM-mkuna, Muna^ or Munadh^ 
in that language signifies instruction or teaching, and, by common 
figure of speech, learning; and the word Aftrin, to teach or in- 
struct, is still used in versions of our Gaelic psalmody. Ct7/-a'- 
mAtma, therefore, anglid^ Kilmun, latini^ Cella doctrinarum^ the 
sacred place of learning or instruction, may be considered the real 
signification of this name. 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 569 

llie Dame of the united parish of course dates its application 
from the union of both ecclesiastically. 

Boundaries, — Its 8ea*coast boundary is the Frith of Clyde, as 
stated ; or, more particularly described, that firith from Strone 
point to Toward point ; Loch Long from Strone point to the ex- 
tremity of Kilmun parish, near the entrance of Lochgoil ; and the 
channel dividing Bute from Argyleshire, from Toward point to 
the extremity of Dunoon parish in its sea-coast line, close to the 
stream of Ardyne, to the westward of Castle Toward. Its inland 
boundaries touch more or less all the parishes of the district of 
Cowal, except .Kil6nan, — baring Invercbaolain on the west and 
north-west, takingthe meridian line at Dunoon; touching Kilmodan 
to the northrwest ; and having Strala^hlan and Strachur to the 
north-west and north; and the parish of Locbgoilhead on the north. 

Figure. — This is very irregular, and not easily deGned in ma- 
thematical language, unless it be termed an irregular polygon. 
Its sea-coast line runs direct scarcely to the extent of one mile in 
any one portion, aod its iriland boundary is equally irregular. 

. Extent* — From the extremity of Kilmun parish, near the en- 
trance .of Locbgoil, to that of Dunoon parish, near the stream of 
Ardyne, the sea-coast line, following its several bendings, and in* 
eluding the Holy Loch, extends, between these two points, to up- 
wards of 30 miles. This has not been submitted to regular mea- 
surement. Its inland boundary presents an equal extent fully. 
Any estimate of its contents in square miles, considering the ex- 
treme irregularity of its figure, and its very unequal surface 
throughout, must be a mere approximation to fact But, having 
recourse to the usual methods in such cases, it has been estimated 
about 180 square miles, — the breadth varying from miles to 2, 
and downwards, toward the two extremities. 

Topographical Appearances. — The general aspect of the ter- 
ritory embraced within the boundaries of the united parish, when 
viewed from the Frith of Clyde, or from its opposite coast, pre- 
sents a bold and even grand collocation of hill and valley, with a 
smoother sloping aspect toward the sea coast, along the greater 
part of its extent. Its wild grouping of hills, scarcely in general 
aspiring to belong to the mountain class, as at least compared 
with many other portions of Highland scenery, may be said more 
to possess dignity than grandeur. Taken in detail, its fea- 
tures become more interesting and perhaps singular. These are 
found to be formed, taking the general lineaments, by five separate 
or distinct hilly or mountainous ranges. There is, first, that to 
the north of Glenfinarti running nearly from east to west k-nexU r 

Digitized by VjOOQlC 



570 ABGYLBSHiae. 

the range running almost at right angles with the former, em- 
bracing a considerable portion of Kilmun pansb, diminishiDK 
gradually in height towards, and terminating in, the point of 
Strone, separating Loch Long from the Holy Loch, and present* 
ing its steepest acclivity immediately behind the Tillage of Kit- 
mun, lying on the eastern shore of the Holy Loch. We have, as 
the third of these ranges, Benmore, with its neighbouring bills 
stretching to the north-west and south-west, rising abruptly and 
boldly from the valley of the Eachaig and the place of Benmore^ 
forming in part the steep and wild western banks of Loch Eek^ 
and the northern side of Glenmassan. The fourth range, run- 
ning nearly from east to west, forms the south side of Glenmassan, 
and the northern side of Glenlean* The fifth of these groups 
runs southward from Glenlean, forming the summit range of the 
territory comprising the parish of Dunoon proper, rising to its 
highest elevation towards the centre, westward of the village of 
Dunoon, in the hill denominated the Bishop's Seat, and termi- 
nating abruptly in the striking hill of Buachaitt-iiheanj on the es- 
tate of Castle Toward : both the latter, as well as Benmore^ com- 
manding a magnificent view of the neighbouring counties and the 
Western Islands* The most striking feature of these mountain 
or hilly ranges is their wild and bold irregularity, both ofpositioD 
and appearance. Benmore is considered the highest of the hills 
of Cowal, and has been estimated at 2500 feet above the level of 
the sea ; and BtiaekailUitheanf by measurement, has been found 
1330 feet. The whole of the other ranges in the parish are of 
inferior height to Benmore ; but their steep acclivities, and the 
abrupt and rugged breaks occurring, both separating and inter- 
secting them at numerous points, render their appearance impos- 
ing, and, on more detailed inspection, exceedingly interesting. 
Taking these ranges as the more prominent leading features 
which the parochial territory presents, the corresponding valleys 
present another feature still more diversified and interesting, pre- 
senting in detail local scenery of softer shades and of milder forms 
than could be anticipated from a more distant view of the general 
aspect of the territory, as seen from any point beyond its own li- 
mits. The parochial bounds comprise also five separate valleys 
or glens, corresponding to the five different mountain ranges de- 
scribed. In describing Highland scenery, it may not be imper- 
tinent to state the distinction properly holding between ybn and 
vaUejf. The latter is always supposed and seen to have egress as 
well as entrance, and both equally patent; while the former, 
according to the use of the language whence the wordjs borrowed. 

Digitized by VjOOQIC 



DUNOON AND K1LMUN. 571 

always presents at the termination opposite to its entrance some 
hilly or rocky barrier, rendering egress in that direction either 
difficult, or, in the apparent aspect of the scene, impracticable. 
Of the fi?e valleys or glens now referred to, as embraced within 
this parochial territory, the most important by far, in point of ex- 
tent, diversified appearance, and relative position, is the valley 
of the Eaehaig^ so denominated from the river Eachaig, to be af- 
terwards mentioned. This valley is formed by the space between 
the second and third of the mountain ranges already described. 
Commencing at the inland extremity of the Holy Loch, and bound- 
ed at its commencement there on the western side by the fourth 
mountain range mentioned, and on the other side by the second, 
the Kilmun Hill, and presenting here an expanse of nearly two 
miles in breadth, it stretches till it reaches Loch Eck, a dis- 
tance of about four miles, and narrowing as it approaches that 
lake. Loch Eck forms its continuation for seven mile^ or upwards, 
when the same valley, continuing its progress in a north-western 
direction, pretty uniformly, from the inland extremity of the Holy 
Loch, strikes into Loch Fine at Strachur Park, in the parish of 
Strachur, and at an angle somewhat acute, and on the Cowal side 
of Loch Fine, about five miles nearer the entrance of that arm of 
the sea than the town of Inveraray. Thus viewed, the valley of 
the Eachaig^ with its continuation along Loch Eck and Strachur, 
forms a leading and very interesting feature in the topography of 
the district of Cowal. Its summit level, shewn by Loch Eck, is 
not more than about 18 feet above the level of the sea ; and, while 
geological . phenomena indicate sufficiently, that at some remote 
and unknown period the sea flowed along the whole of this valley, 
forming the portions of Cowal to the westward of it into an island, 
it may be of more importance practically, and in a commercial 
age, to hint that this valley presents by far the shortest, easiest, 
and most agreeable line of communication between Inveraray, the 
county town of Argyleshire, and the southern parts of Scotland, 
the distance between Kilmun and Loch Fine at Strachur not ex- 
ceeding thirteen miles, along a level far from being impracticable 
to the genius of the railway engineer. Prom the inland extremity 
of the Holy Loch to the southern end of Loch Eck, a distance 
of about four miles, this valley presents a very considerable space 
of level surface, ranging between the mountain groups that bound 
it on each side, a space which, were adequate means employed 
to straighten and embank the course of the river Eachaig^ flowing 
from Loch Eck till it falls into the Holy Loch, the valley might 
present, in this portion of its extent; a scene of nc;^ o^rj 



672 ABGYLESHTREt 

scape beauty and interest. At the entrance to Loch Eck, at 
the southern extremity, the boundaries of this valley on either 
side combine to form one of the grandest scenes to be met with 
in the Highlands of Scotland. The rocky and shattered face of 
the mountain range on the eastern side present to the imagina- 
tion the appearance of some huge interminable Babel-like ruin, 
its summit retreating and lost in the distance; while on the west- 
ern side of this entrance, the eye is constrained also to rest in tun 
on the very striking appearance of hill and corriesj forming the 
dark and mysterious recesses of Coire-an-tt, 

Glenfinart may next be mentioned, taking its commencement at 
Ardentinny from the western shore of Loch Long, running in a west- 
erly direction between the 6rst and second mountain ranges already 
described, to the extent of upwards of three miles in length, till met 
by a hill barrier secondary in height to the two side boundaries, — 
this range separating it from Loch Eck and the valley of the Each- 
aiff. This glen is, like the valley last described, well wooded both 
by copsewood and planting, and embraces a considerable space of 
level ground asits ba$e, increasing in width toward the sea-coast, 
and is now undergoing the highest improvement in the hands of 
its present proprietor. Both the valleys now described are in the 
bounds of the parish of Kilmun proper, which also embraces the 
third falling to be mentioned, — Glenmassan. This opens from 
the western side of the valley of the Eachaig, about two miles 
from Kilmun, running almost at right angles with that valley, and 
continuing its course westward, bounded on either side by the 
third and fourth mountain ranges mentioned ; at first narrowing 
into a gorge about two miles from its entrance, and then expand- 
ing its Alpine bosom into a Very uncommon and well-defined level 
flat of arable alluvial soil many acres in extent, it is seen closely bar- 
riered at its upland extremity by the transverse range of the hills of 
Garachra, When thickly wooded on both sides, as this glen ap- 
pears to have been, according to Highland song and tradition, and 
indeed on one side to a comparatively recent date, as is quite appa- 
rent, Glenmassan must have formed a singularly romantic and se- 
cure Highland fastness, the very birth-place of song and romance. 
Towards Dunoon from the glen last mentioned, and separated 
from it by the fourth mountain range mentioned formerly, com- 
mences Glenlean, from the western side of the Holy Loch, at its 
extremity inland, running nearly parallel with Glenmassan, and 
extending nearly six miles from its entrance ; it mingles the dis« 
tinctions between a glen and a valley, and narrowing at its inland 
extremity, brings the traveller along an excellent^oad abruptly 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 



DUNOON AND KILMUN. 673 

into view of the bighly interesting and wild scenery of Loch Striv- 
en, an arm of the sea running inland, in the parish of Inverchao- 
lain. It is a glen of less interest in its features than any of the three, 
formerly mentioned, but sufficiently alpine in its general character. 
The three valleys last enumerated may be said to meet, and to 
blend themselves unitedly into the smoother and extended surface 
surrounding the Holy Loch at its inland extremity, forming there,, 
with the surrounding mountain ranges, when viewed from any spot 
of thelevel, acoii/7 cToeil which may be termed magnificent ; — the 
agricultural iniprovements now for some years in progress here, on 
the estate of Hafton, embracing a large portion of this level terri- 
tory, and bringing into pleasing contrast and connection the native 
ruggedness of these mountain ranges with the cultivated and cheer- 
ful aspect of fields, plantations, and comfortable homesteads at. 
their base. The fiflh leading valley in the parish is at its western 
extremity, where bounded to the westward by the parish of Inver- 
chaolain. Commencing at the embouchure of the stream of Ar- 
dyne, to the westward of Castle Toward, bounded on the eastern 
side by the gentle and well-wooded acclivities o[ BuachailUithean^ 
and on the western side by the lower and well cultivated and 
wooded hills of Ardyne and Knockdow, in the parish of Inverchao- 
]ain, it assumes a north-western direction, narrowing almost into a 
gorge about two miles from the coast, when it again opens up into 
a wide alpine valley, stretching across northward, and presenting 
magnificent mountain scenery, especially on the eastern side, till, 
after a continuation of fully three miles in extent, it is intercepted 
by the hills of Glenlean. 

The general aspect of the lower or sea-coast range is compara- 
tively smooth, presenting more or loss acclivity throughout the 
greater portion of the coast line along the parish. This lower 
range is generally well wooded, showing either the variegated 
shades of natural copse, in which the oak prevails, or the richer 
appearance of planting and enclosures, with well cultivated fields. 
The acclivity from the coast-line is, in general, more steep along 
the coast of Kilmun parish, corresponding with the facts usually 
presented in similar geological territories. Those along the coast 
of Dunoon parish are of a gentler slope. Considerable spaces, 
however, comparatively level, occur at the commencement of the 
several valleys mentioned, near the point of Toward, at the extre- 
mity, inland, of the Holy Loch, and in the vicinity of Dunoon. 
This general appearance is increased in interest, and contrasting 
more strongly with the higher inland and more alpine territory, by 



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574 ARGYLESHIRE* 

the village of Dunoon, stretching, as it does, including the vilks 
in it9 neighbourhood, to an extent of upwards of five miles from 
the entrance of the Holy Loch, on its western side, onwards to- 
wards the point of Toward ; and by the village of Kilmun, on the 
eastern shore of the Holy Loch. The extent of sea coast has been 
mentioned already. Its margin is generally tame, though not flat, 
consisting chiefly of clayey slate, with certain interrnptions. It 
can scarcely be said that any rock occurs, except that which forms 
the hill on which Dunoon Castle stood ; and the frith is remark- 
ably free, near its margin along this coast, from what seamen term 
reefe, the only ones occurring being two, the one near the coast at 
the point formed by the Castle-hill of Dunoon, and the other to 
the eastward of the point of Toward. On both these, beacons 
have been erected of substantial mason-work. The frith gene- 
rally becomes shallow, as it approaches the coast The principal 
bay is the Holy Loch, diverging from the Frith of* Clyde in a 
north-westerly direction, and running inland about two miles 
from its entrance at Strone point. There is scarcely any other 
curvature of the coast-line forming any bay properly so called, 
except on a small scale at Ardentinny, and on both sides to the 
north-east and south-*west of the point formed by the Castle-bill 
of Dunoon. The retpeat of the tide exposes generally along 
the coast a considerable extent of shingly beach and sand, especi- 
ally at the inland extremity of the Holy Loch. The principal 
headlands are the point of Toward and the point of Strone, the 
former opposite the island of Bute, and forming the angle where 
the strait or channel, dividing that island from Argyleshire, di- 
verges from the Frith of Clyde ; the point of Strone abo forming 
the angle where both Loch Long and the Holy Loch commence 
to take their respective names as locally distinguished from the 
Frith of Clyde. On the point of Toward, a light-house, showing 
a revolving light, has been erected, and has contributed greatly 
since its erection to the safety of shipping when working up the frith. 

On the sides of Benmore, there are several very remarkable fis- 
sures or chasms, running parallel with the acclivities of its sides, 
varying in width from ten inches to fifteen feet. The one found 
to be deepest, is about three feet wide« A stone dropped into it 
(striking, of course, against the sides in its descent,) takes fifty- 
eight seconds to reach the bottom. Its last fall is distinctly heard 
to be long, and sounds as if terminating in a body of water. 

Climate. — The mildness of the climate is indicated by the vi- 
gorous healthy growth of evergreen shrubbery, many kinds of 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 



575 



which appear to luxuriate in the open air during the winter, 
and which may be called exotic kinds to most parts of Scotland. 
The Arbuttu ripens its scarlet berries in several places; in well- 
kept pleasure grounds the myrtle is frequently seen in blossom in 
the months of December and January ; and Fusciag not only sur- 
vive the winter in the open air, but may be seed, where special 
attention has been paid to that beautiful deciduous shrub, reared 
into a hedge or garden fence. In the more elevated parts of the 
parish, indeed, along the hilly and mountainous ranges described, 
snow generally makes its appearance early in winter, and is fre- 
quently seen to continue for several months. 

Meteorology. — A very regular and accurate register of meteoro* 
logical observations has been kept at Castle Toward for twenty 
years past by the late Kirkman Finlay Esq., and is still continued 
by the present proprietor, Alexander S. Finlay, Esq. The situa- 
tion where the thermometer, barometer, and rain-gauges are placed, 
is about 120 feet above the level of the sea, and at the distance of 
about half a mile to the north, the hill of BuachaiU-ithean rises to 
the height of 1100 feet above that level. A table of the general 
monthly results for the last three years preceding 1843 is here 
introduced.* 





Atmospheric 


Sute of the wind uken 


Atmospheric 


Extern, therm. 






variations. 


at 9 o'clock A.1I. 


pressure. 


in the shade. 


Fall of 


"d • 






1 


















>.«3 


.•J! 


KO.!i 


>:^\ 


1840. 






1 


1 


;^ 


30 


» 


i 

A 


^ 


Z 


25 


S5 


Month! 

mean. 

o'clock. 


Month] 

mean. 

o'clock. 


Monthi 
O'clock, 


III 


rain. 


Jan. 


2D 


9 


6 


2 


6 





1 


9 


8 


4 


"l 


1 


29.45 


29.40 


384 


41 


76 


Feh. 


10 


16 


7 


8 


13 


3 


3 


4 


2 


2 


2 





29.86 


29.66 


39 


41 


3.2 


March, 


5 


28 


10 





14 


] 








1 


11 


I 


8 


30.26 


30.27 


41 


43 


0.6 


April, 


9 


21 


2 





12 





5 


6 


5 





2 





28.96 


30.04 


49 


«i 


1.2 


May, 


16 


15 








16 





2 


3 


2 


2 


6 





29.86 


29.85 


511 


M 


3.6 


June, 


18 


12 








3 


1 


|] 


8 


5 


4 


2 


1 


29.72 


29.79 


554 


584 


3.6 


July, 


17 


14 








1 





b 


5 


6 


8 


6 





20.75 


29.83 


544 

584 


56i 
584 


8.8 


Aug. 


16 


15 








6 


1 


9 


5 


4 


4 


2 





29.74 


29.67 


3.7 


Sept. 


22 


8 








7 





4 


5 


5 


6 


2 


1 


29.68 


29 64 


514 


54 


7.8 


Oct 


Id 


18 


4 





6 


2 


1 


2 


5 


M) 


5 





29.77 


29.86 


474 


47 


2. 


Nov. 


16 


14 


6 





9 


4 


3 


4 


2 





8 





29.83 


29.53 


43 


lit 


4.2 


Dee. 


11 


19 


9 


1 


9 


4 


4 


8 


1 


5 


4 


1 


29.92 


29.91 


m 


3.3 




173 


liT 


44 


6 


96 


16 


55 


49 


41 


56 


4? 


1 










43.3 



* It may be observed with respect to this table, that the sitoation of Castle Toward, 
being the &W.W. and N. W., with a very large and open expanse around in these 
leveral directions, may in some measure tend to produce results more equable than 
might be found by similar observations in any other locality of the united parish. 
The rain-gauge chiefly used is one of very simple construction by Mr Thom of Ascog, 
in Bute. Mr Finlay, however, to ensure the greater accuracy, employed gauges of 
different constructions, comparing the results. His superintendence of this register 



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576 



ARGTLESHIUE. 

















Table — continued. 










Atmospheric 


SUte of the wiud takenl Atmospheric 
at 9 o'clock A.M. 1 pressure. 


Gztern. therm. 






variations. 




Fall of 








-: 
'5 

43 


















--<• 




.««: 


X^ 9. 




« s 

^2 




>. 


o8 


















•5 "^ 


•5 .M 


-a . ^ 


? ■•jf 


nin. 




.fc 


s 


fi 




£4 




& 




^' 




U 


iU 


III 


ill 


ill 




1841. 


i?« 


£ 


i, 


c 


U 


-/5 


c» 


CO 


i^" 


2i 


25 


25 


se-b 


29.64 


5E-0 


SE'S 




Jan. 


9 


9'8 


6 


4 


1 


1 


4 


4 


4 


9 


4 


29.75 


85i 


864 


ao 


Feb. 


12 


16 


7 


4 


18 





10 


1 


01 1 


2 


1 


29.83 


29.80 


361 


874 


a^ 


March, 


17 


26 








5 


3 


13 


1 


5 


4 


2 





29.75 


29.79 


43 


424 


a2 


April, 


2() 


21 


3 





6 


I 


7| 1 


4 


8 


3 





29.84 


29.75 


46 


494 


SL8 


May, 


11 


15 


1 





9 


1 


8 


9 


2 


2 





29.72 


29.77 


504 


55 


&6 


June, 


13 


12 








9 


1 


4 1 


4 


8 


3 





29.92 


29 94 


56i 


58 


18 


July, 


16 


14 








8 


i 


^ ' 


1 


19 


2 





29.92 


29.85 


55 


564 


ae 


Aug. 


14 


15 








2 


2 


5 2 


5 


12 


2 


1 


29.89 


29.82 


.564 


57 


w 


Sept. 


16 


8 








14 


3 


Si 1 


1 


8 








29.56 


29.89 


554 


62 


4.1 


Oct. 


15 


18 





1 


11 





10 


8 


2 


7 


1 


29.59 


29.60 


45 


47 


5A 


Nov. 


14 


14 


6 


1 


9 


3 


12 


6 





8 


1 


29.55 


29.57 


414 


43 


a2 


Dec. 


28 


19 


8 





8 


1 


3, 7 


2 


b 


6 


I 


29.60 


29.59 


38| 


891 


5i4 


1842. 


180 


173 |28 


12 


88 


V7 


65 


■21 


49 


71 


44 


9 










46.4 












— 
























Jan. 


18 


9 


8 


2 


10 


2 


7 


C 


1 


2 


8 


1 


29.74 


29.99 


364 


38 


4Ji 


Feb. 


13 


16 


8 


2 


3 


2 


12 


6 


3 


1 


1 





29.74 


29.63 


384 


384 


5. 


March, 


21 


26 


2 


3 





2 


5 


6 


5 


8 


4 


1 


29.75 


29.78 


42| 


43 


6. 


April, 





21 


6 


1 


19 





2 








5 


4 





30.30 


30.38 


48 


52 


0. 


May, 


17 


15 


0| 


11 


2 


13 





2 


8 








29.74 


29.69 


514 


58 


2.71 


June, 


11 


12 








13 





7 


2 





S 








29.99 


30.01 


59 


62 


aa9 


July, 


13 


14 








10 


•0 


4 


5 





11 


] 





29.96 


29.87 


57 


61 


0. 


Aug. 


14 


15 








6 





4 


4 


1 


8 


5 


I 


30.05 


80.03 


604 


614 


4.71 


Sept 


13 


8 








12 


1 


4 





6 


2 


5 





29.96 


29.97 


55 


534 


2.76 


Oct. 


10 


18 


6 





4 








2 


6 


7 


12 





29.69 


29.70 


444 


^ 


IM 


Nov. 


9 


14 


5 


1 


17 





4 





2 


i' 


7 





29.69 


29.65 


42l 
441 


45 


2L96 


Dec. 


21 


19 





1 


4 


1 


7 
76 


9 
34 


4 


5 
35 


1 
48 




1 


29.90 


29.94 


424 


«57 


1.55 200 

1 


25 


10 


109* 


10 








89.37 



While the above table distinctly enough shows, that, according 
to the number of days throughout the year on which it occurs, 
the east is the prevailing wind, yet it must be also considered that, 
throughout the greater part of the year, the winds are exceedingly 
variable, and the south-west is by far that most experienced, asbring- 
ing both rain and heavy gales. During the winter and spring 
months, till towards the end of March, it may be said that the 
south-west, varying to west and north-west, prevails ; and during 
the month of April, sometimes commencing earlier, onwards to 
the middle and frequently till the end of May, easterly winds pre- 
vail, when the winds again become very variable till the coin- 
was unwearied and constant, and its accuracy may be most fully relied upon. Tbe 
register itself is a daily one; and the average results of each month, as exhibited io the 
tablet have been very carefully drawn out and coUated. The term "frosty* is to be 
understood as indicating a day on which there was any frost» the thennometrical ob* 
•ervation of the day showing the degree of it 

4 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 577 

uenoement of the winter season. The east wind, though not ac- 
companied herewith the same depression of atmospheric tempera- 
ture as it brings on the east coast of Scotland, is, notwithstanding, 
keenly felt : and the months of March, April, and frequently a 
considerable portion of the month of May, may be said to be the 
coldest period of the year. 

Judging from results, both in ordinary and extraordinary cir- 
oumstatices, the climate of this parish may be considered highly 
conducive to health. 

Hydroffraphy.'-^The Frith of Clyde, immediately opposite 
Dunoon, is about three miles across to the opposite shore. There 
is a regular ferry, now, indeed, not so much in demand since the 
introductioD of steam navigation. The landing place of the ferry 
on the opposite coast of Renfrewshire, is at about a quarter of a 
mile toward Gourock, from the Cloch Light-house. This is the 
narrowest part of the frith to the westward of Gourock, expand- 
ing as it does from the point of Gourock northward into more 
spacious width, as it sends off the branches of Loch Long and the 
Holy Loch ; and ' widening, again beyond Dunoon, the coasts of 
Renfrewshire and Ayrshire trending pretty rapidly sofithward, 
and that of Argyleshire on the northern side, maintaining its direc-^ 
tion westward to the point of Toward, trending slightly north- 
ward. Opposite Dunoon, the depth of the frith in the centre, 
and increasing towards the Renfrewshire coast, till approaching 
close to the coast, is about sixty fathoms. From the point of 
Strone, a bank is raised, and extending to a considerable distance 
across the frith in the same direction as the point, and occasioned 
by the tides flowing into and from Loch Long and the Holy Loch, 
on which the depth, in ordinary tides, is only sixteen fathoms, and 
suddenly increasing to thirty-two and upwards on either side. The 
current in the portion of the frith opposite Dunoon runs, in neap 
tides, at the rate of f knots an hour, and in spring tides, about 
1^ knots, — increased here no doubt by receiving th^ branch 
currents from Loch Long and the Holy Loch in ebb tides, and 
supplying those arms in flood tide. The tide at Dunoon rises 
and falls, in spring tides, about fourteen feet perpendicular, and in 
neap tides, from) nine to ten feet. The highest and lowest tides 
generally occur at the period of the vernal equinox. 

A very extensive and highly picturesque view of the frith is pre* 
seated from almost any part of the coast in the neighbourhood of 
Dunoon ; but from the Castle-hill, Dunoon, it is particularly in 

ARGYLB* U O 



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578 ARGYLESHIRE. 

teresting and extensive, ranging from Helensburgh in Dumbarton-* 
shire, and extending, seaward to Ailsa Craig, that object being 
from this spot clearly discernible by the naked eye in a clear state 
of the atmosphere, the same view embracing the islands of Cum- 
brae, and portions of Bute and Arran. At any point of considerable 
elevation above the coast, near Dunoon, the same view of the frith 
is prolonged inland to Dumbarton Castle. The Holy Locli is 
the only 'arm of the sea that intersects the united parish* From 
where it branches off from the frith at the point of Strone, it runs 
inland a distance of about two miles direct, and is about a mile 
broad at its entrance, narrowing at the village of Kilmun, oppo- 
site which, the currents both of the frith and of the streams 
emptying themselves into the loch have thrown up an extended 
shingly bank on both sides ; — beyond this, inland, it again widens^ 
and maintains its breadth to its inland termination. It divides in its 
length the parishes proper of Dunoon and Kilmun. The Holy 
Loch affords convenient and accessible shelter to the coasting 
trade of the Clyde, and not unfrequently to its foreign shipping. It 
has good anchorage in from fifteen to seventeen fathoms water, 
with good holding ground, the most secure being beyond the nar« 
rowest part inland, where again the loch expands. 

The only fresh water lake of any extent is Loch Eck, and of 
it this united parish claims not the whole extent, nearly one»half 
of it lying within the parish of Strachur. Loch Eck is about 
seven miles in length, its general breadth being pretty unifogn, 
and about half a mile. It extends southward and northward 
nearly. Its depth varies ; toward the banks on each side it is 
shallow, but increases suddenly in depth toward the middle ; 
and toward the place of Bernice, lying on its western bank, 
its depth is about siicty fathoms. Its scenery is interesting, pre- 
senting precipitous and well-wooded banks on the western side, 
from its northern extremity nearly to its southern, and embrac- 
ing on that side the picturesque and beautiful spot of Bernice, the 
property of Mr Fletcher, where the landscape is softened by thriT- 
ing plantations of larch, and well cultivated fields, — a picture of 
cultivated Highland retirement and seclusion. Its eastern bank 
is mora tame and level, but varied in appearance«and interest by 
copse, planting, and sections of arable land, with their humble re- 
sidences. 

The only stream in the united parish which can aspire to tlie 
name of river, is the Eachaig, which issuing from Loch Eck at its 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 579 

southern extremity, and runniDg a course of nearly four miles 
along the valley bearing its own name, empties itself into the 
Holy Loch. It is joined in its short course by its two tributary 
streams, the Massan, which, issuing from the glen of that name, 
joins the £achaig near the place of Benmore, and the stream call* 
ed the Little Eachaig, issuing from Glenlean, which joins the 
Eachaig immediately before its junction with the sea at the inland 
extremity of the Holy Loch. 

The parish abounds, as may be supposed from its central, hilly 
and mountainous aspect, with minor streams and rivulets, all sub- 
ject to sudden rises in rainy weather, and many of them, when 
flooded, forming cascades, though none of these can be termed 
peipetual ones ; except where the Massan, passing through the 
gorge of that glen, and over a ledge of rock, has worn out for it- 
self a rugged and diversified course, where, especially when flood- 
ed, this stream presents a very picturesque and impetuous fall. 

There are no springs in the parish meriting any particular no- 
tice, though excellent spring water abounds in every part of it. 

GeoIoffy.^The whole parish consists of the mica-slate and clay- 
slate system, which stretches across the breadth of Scotland, from 
Kincardineshire on the east, to Argyleshire, Bute, and Arran, on 
the west The oldest and most extensive formation in the parish 
is mica-slate. With the exception of the southern part of the Kil- 
mun hill, from the old mansion-house on Mr Campbell of Monzie's 
lands, near the church of Kilmun, to the point of Strone, the 
whole of Kilmun parish, extending from near the entrance of 
Lochgoil, including Glenfinart, the bold and rugged sides of Loch 
£ck, Glenmassan, and Glenlean, consists of this rock. The mi- 
ca-slate is highly indurated, contorted into curves and every va- 
riety of form, and is traversed by veins of compact quartz. It 
ranges generally from north-north-east to south-south-west, and 
dips south at various angles from 85°, or nearly vertical, as at In- 
verchapuil, near the entrance to Loch Eck, and at Benmore, to 70^ 
and 45^ The mica-slate passes into clay-slate, which forms the 
southern portion of the Kilmun hill, and by far the greater por- 
tion of the parish of Dunoon. The transition from mica to clay- 
slate is well marked by the aspect of the territory ; the former 
forming the bold, broken, precipitous, and highly picturesque 
outlines of Loch Eck, Glenfinart, and Glenmassan hills, and the 
latter, the more even and regular outline of the hills behind Dun- 
oon, The clay-slate is greenish, grayish, and blubh in colour, — 



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wo ARGTLESHIRE. • 

sometimes it occurs finely laminated and firmly grained. It dips 
south, and mostly at an angle of 459* It has been quarried and 
used as roofing slates, both on the estate of Toward and in the 
vicinity of Dunoon, and is still occasionally used, or has recently 
been, at the latter place. Builders, however, have considered it 
inferior to Balachulish and Easdale slate ; and the latter are al- 
most always preferred. 

The clay-slate, again, passes into greywack^ at the point of 
Strone, and at Toward. The gfeywack6 is coarse-grained, and 
alternates, at the junction, with the clay-slate in inconsiderable 
strata. 

The old red sandstone skirts the shore from the farm of Ine- 
land, five miles and a*half to the west of Dunoon, to within a mile 
or upwards of Toward Castle* The whole of Toward point be- 
longs to this formation, excepting where, on the west side of the 
point, a considerable bed of limestone occurs. The red sand- 
stone lies inconformably to the primary rocks below. Its lower 
strata consist of a coarse conglomerate, mad6 up of the fragments 
of the adjacent schists, and its upper strata are of a deep-red co- 
lour, and not very firmly granulated. Its position is nearly hori<- 
zontal, or dips to the north at very low angles. The red sand- 
stone has been quarried at different periods, more or less, and used 
in building. The old castle of Toward appears to have been 
built mostly of this stone; but it is found to be somewhat porous, 
aud not of such firm consistency and adaptation to building pur- 
poses as that occurring abundantly on the opposite shore of the 
Frith of Clyde, in Renfrewshire. 

- A narrow bed of limestone, as noticed already, occurs near the 
Light* house at the point of Toward, superimposed upon jBuid con- 
formed, as far as can be seen, to the red sandstone. The woric- 
ing of this limestone wias begun, several years ago, by a former 
proprietor of lands in the neighbourhood, but was abandoned as 
an unprofitable speculation, the mineral proving impure, and loose- 
ly aggregated. Another limestone bed occurs on the face of the 
hill rising westward of the point, on the lands of Castle Toward, 
which has been occasionally. wrought for &rming purposes, and 
the quality found sufficiently good. Certain provisions of statute, 
or in the navigation code of the country, prohibiting the use 
of lime-kilns within certain distances, or within view of Light- 
houses, this quarry has ceased to be wrought since the erection of 
the Light«house on Toward point. Limestone again occurs od the 



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. DUNOON AND KILMUN. • 58l 

lands of Castle Toward toward the boundary of the parish to th^ 
westward. This bed has not been closely examined in detail; 
but has been pronounced by competent judges to approach to the 
consistency of good marble. 

Igneous rocks are of frequent occurrence throughout the united 
parish, but nowhere in great mass. The Castle-hill, Dunoon, is 
formed of a very dark greenstone, and a section is laid bare oh the 
shore, beneath which there is exhibited, even to the unscientific 
observer, a very interesting junction, — the protrusion of the igne^ 
ous rock through th^ clay-slate, and the manifest disturbance, dis^ 
colouring, and crystallization of the latter by the forgier at the 
point of contact. The Oantocks, a partially sunk rock, a few 
hundred yards, here, distant from the shore, is also of the same 
igneous origin. 

Dikes of porphyry and other trap traverse the red sandstone 
ki the neighbourhood of Toward point, upraising and discolouring 
it, and at several points they cross each other. 

No kinds of the more valuable minerals or ores have been found 
to occur. Coal was at one time supposed to exist below the flat 
or basin portion of land occurring between Toward point and the 
more elevated rising banks in its neighbourhood. Attempts made 
towards its discovery by a former proprietor of those lands, failed 
of success. Serpentine, susceptible of high polish, occurs in con- 
siderable quantity at the coast, about four miles westward of 
Dunoon. 

The soil of the parish generally is a light, and, for the most part,, 
rather shallow, sandy loam, lying upon the kind of bed that has 
been already described. Where depressions of the surface occur, 
beds of sandy gravel are found to occupy them beneath the cover- 
ing of soil ; and either these or moss, more or less deep, in the 
smoother or more level parts of the parish. In portions, indeed^ 
of the several valleys which form the local features of the terri- 
tory, the soil is deeper, and favourable to the purposes of farm hus- 
bandry. ~ What in agricultural language is denominated a " hanging 
soil," where not cultivated, is generally found covered with copse, 
the oak, birch, hazel, and ash prevailing, the first chiefly; and 
where cultivation has been promoted, or enclosures formed, the 
ordinary crops and plantations thrive successfully. 

Botany. — The geological structure, which is known so well to 
exert a considerable influence on vegetation, being but little varied 
throughout the parish as a whole, its botany may be supposed to 



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682 augtlbshirb. 

have no very great diversity. The hiUs» diough rising to a heigbc 
approaching to 3000 feet above the level of the sea, are not suflS- 
ciently lofty to produce the rarer species of Scottish alpine plants, yet 
several plants do occur which are highly interesting to the botanist 
The sea shore affords two plants that cannot fail to strike the 
attention of one who walks upon the sandy or shingly portion of 
the beach between Dunoon and Toward. The first is the yel- 
low-horned poppy {Chelidanium majus)^ with its large yellow blos- 
soms, and singular seed-vessels ; the other, a plant indeed peculiar 
to northern coasts, is the sea-side Gromwell {Lithospervmm mart" 
timum). It sends forth from a perennial central root a number of 
procumbent stems, clothed with bright, purplish, blue flowers, and 
fleshy leaves of a sea-green colour, observed to possess a flavour, 
when eaten fresh, exactly similar to that of oysters. The scurvy- 
grass {Cochlearia officinalis)^ and the grass wrack {ZosUra marina) 
so much employed in the Hebrides, Orkneys, and Iceland, for 
stuffing beds, are also common on the beach. Moist and marshy 
grounds present us with the pale butterwort {Pinffuicula lusiianica)^ 
a species first found in Portugal, whence its specific name, and which 
has since been ascertained to be a native of the western side of 
England, Wales, and Scotland ; while, strange to say, it grows no- 
where in the inferior of our island, nor can it be discovered on the 
eastern coast. It yields in beauty to the common butterwort {P. 
vulgaris), but its rarity recommends it to the plant collector. In 
the same kind of localities is found the Gipsey wort (Lycopus Etann 
pcBus) ; the black bog rush (Sch<Bnus nigricans) ; the curious and 
minute thyme-leaved flax-seed (Radiola millegrana)^ which latter 
grows at Toward Point ; Myosotis palusbis, with its turquoise-co- 
loured blossoms, which is the true *^ forget me not;" brook-weed 
{Samohs Valerandi) ; marsh-violet {Fiola paltutris) ; the grass of 
Parnassus {Pamassia palnstris), affording a beautiful example of 
nectaries, or honey-bearing glands in a flower ; the long-leaved sun- 
dew {Drosera longifolia) ; the great bilberry, or bog whortleberry 
(Vaccinium uliginosum), of which the fruit is laige and esculent^ 
and the foliage used by the Icelanders, mixed with the alpine club 
moss, to produce a yellow dye for woollen stuffs; the yellow moun* 
tain saxifrage {Saxijraga aizoides) ; and higher up the hills the 
starry saxifrage (i^. stellaris) ; the large-flowered bitter-cress 
{Cardamine amara), in the glen near Mr Malcolm's beautiful 
villa in the vicinity of Dunoon; the marsh dandelion {Leanio* 
don palustre). Also, among orchideous plants, the early purple 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 6Q3 

orchis {Orchis mascula); marsh orchis (O. laiifolia) ; and spotted 
orchis (O. maculata) ; and butterfly habenaria {Habenaria hifolia)^ 
with its deliciously scented flowers, which, with many other cream- 
coloured, of pale greenish-white blossoms, become much more 
fragrant on the approach of evening ; and lastly, as pre-eminently 
indicating a moist and boggy soil, may be mentioned the sweet 
gale or Dutch myrtle (Afynca GaU)y the badge of the clan Camp- 
bell, a shrub remarkable for the aromatic fragrance of its foliage, 
which, together with the elasticity of its young twigs, recommend* 
ed it for beds among the population of the Highlands-— 

« Gale from the bog shall waft Arabian balm/* 

Fresh water pools and minor lakes in the parish yield the marsh 
and water speedwells ( VeronicaKUteUata and couigdllis). There, too. 

The water-Iily to the light. 

Her chalice rears of silver bright ; 

and nowhere, perhaps, in greater profusion and loveliness than in 
the loch of Dunloskin, on the Hafton estate, near Dunoon. Its 
roots are used in different parts of Scotland, for producing a black 
or deep purple dye : the bladderwort ( Utrkularia vulgaris), its 
leaves furnished with little vesicles or bladders. These, by a beau- 
tiful provision of nature, are filled with air during the summer 
season, when the plant rises to the surface of the water, and ex- 
pands its flowers in the free atmosphere. Afterwards the air es- 
capes from these vesicles, and the plant, by its own specific gra- 
vity, then sinks to the bottom of the water, there to ripen its seeds. 
This interesting and beautiful production is found in pools near 
the Bull-wood, westward of the village of Dunoon. The water 
lobelia (Lobelia Dartmanna) abounds in Loch Eck. Its leaves are 
constantly submerged. If these leaves are cut through transverse- 
ly, they will be seen to be each of them composed of two parallel 
tubes, like a double-barrelled gun, — a structure not known to exist in 
any other plant. In the same lake, and always near the shore, may 
be seen in profusion the plantain shore-weed {Litorella lacustris), 
matting the edge of the water with its velvety green tufts. 

Dry and open banks and fields are adorned with the poor man's 
weather-glass. {Anagallis arvensis) ; the common centaury (^ry- 
ihraa Centaurium), and field gentian {Gentiana campestris), both 
which are remarkable for their powerfully bitter principle, and may 
be safely used as stomachics; the bistort or snake-weed {Polygon 
ftttm historta), and viviparous alpine bistort (P. viviparum), in 
more mountainous situations; the awl-shaped spurrey (Spergula 



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584 AROyLESHIBE. 

subulata); the smooth field pepper- weed {Lepidium SmiMi); the 
trailing and upright St John's wort {Hypericum humifiuum and 
pulchrum) ; the charming sweet-scented gyttmadenia (Gymnadenia 
conapsea) ; the green and the white habenaria (Habhuxria viridtM 
and aibida) ; and, finally, the common and the beart-leayed tway- 
blade {Listera ovata and cordata*) 

Stone walls afford suflScient nourishment for the pellitory of the 
wall (Parietaria officinalis)^ especially at AchenwHlin, and at the 
old Castle of Toward. The stamens of this plant are of a rooBt 
curious structure, jointed and elastic, so that in fine warm weather 
they may be seen, as the buds expand, to unroll themselves with 
a jerk, and scatter little clouds of pollen or fertilizing dust to i 
considerable distance. The wall pennywort fCafyledon UnAiH- 
cusj is nourished in the same situations* 

Woods and coppices, especially if moist, produce the commoD 
and alpine enchanter's nightshade (CirecsaLutetianaAnd alpma); 
the daffodil (Narcissus Pseudo^narcissusjj is seen on banks near 
Dunoon, apparently wild ; and the lesser winter gum (Pyrola 
minorjj and the tutsan (Hypericum AndroscBmumJj grow at KiU 
mun and Ardentinny. 

In rocky places are observed, the northern bedstraw (Qolium 
borealejf Qxiij among the hills, the mountain sorrel (Oxyria reii>- 
formis)j whose leaves have an agreeable acid taste ; also the stone 
bramble (Rvbus saxatilisj. The higher mountains of the parish, 
such as Benmore, not being of sufficient elevation to hold out the 
prospect of a rich harvest of alpine plants to the botanist^ have not 
been examined with the attention which they perhaps deserve 
But the following alpine productions may be mentioned : the dwarf 
cornel (Comus suecieaj ; procumbent Sibbaldia (Sibbaldia pro* 
cumbensjj which is named in honour of Robert Sibbald, who wrote a 
natural history of Scotland so early as the closing part of the se« 
venteenth century, and who then published a figure of this plant ; 
spiked mountain woodrush (Luzula spicataj ; the purple moun- 
tain saxifrage (Saxifrdga oppositifoliajj a ^lovely flower, well 
adapted for adorning artificial rock^work ; the alpine rasp or cloud- 
berry (Rubus ChamtBmorusJj which bears a beautiful and finely 
flavoured large orange berry ; the alpine meadow-rue (nuMUdnan 
alpinumj ; the rose-root (Rhodiola rosea) ; and, lastly, the least 
alpine willow (Salix herbaceajj a genus of which many of the 
kinds possess an arborescent character, while the present minia- 
ture species, of which little forests, if they may be so called, are 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 585 

seen clothing considerable patches of the otherwise bare grounds 
on the highest summit of Benmore, only attains the height of one 
or two inches, yet bears its leaves^ its catkins, and its flowers as 
perfect as those of its brethren in the willow tribe, which, on our 
plains and valleys, constitute real trees. 

The nature of the soil, the moist rocks, and shady glens of the 
parish are highly favourable to the growth of cryptogamic plants, 
particularly of ferns, which, in the form and structure and colour 
of the foliage, far exceed the flowering plants. Not fewer than 
four species of dub-moss have been found : the common cIuIh 
moss (Lyeopodium davcOum)^ of which the excessively minute 
dust-like seeds, being highly inflammable, are used to produce ar-* 
tificial lightning on the stage ; the fir club*moss (L. Selago)^ and 
lesser alpine club-moss (L. sehffinoides), and upon the higher 
mountains the savin-leaved dub-moss (Z. alpinum). We must 
be permitted to point particular attention to the noble fern, the 
Osmund royal {Osmunda regalU)^ which abounds among moist 
copsewood in several situations in the parish, and especially near 
the road, from Ineland to Toward Chapel, and in the Bull wood, 
near Dunoon ; the moon*fem {Botrychium lunaria) : this is found 
on dry grassy banks above Mr Malcolm's residence, near Dunoon ; 
the pale mountain and the three-branched polypody {Polypodium 
Pheffopteris and cakareum)^ in woods near Dunoon ; the close-leav- 
ed, prickly shield-fern, and heath shield fern (Aspidium labatum and 
Oreapieris); the brittle bladder fern (CistapterU fraffilis) ; the 
green and the wall rue spleen-wort {Aspleniutn viride and Ruta-'mU" 
raria) ; the hart's tongue {Scohpendbrium vulgare), which grows 
among the woods at Ardentinny ; the curled rock-brake (Crypto^ 
gramma erispa) ; whilst among the smallest, but certainly the most 
delicately beautiful of the fern tribe, are the Tonbridge and the 
Scottish filmy ferns {HymenaphyUum Tunbridgense and WiUoni). 
The latter is a recent discovery in Britain, and was first detected in 
Scotland, growing in the same spot with the former species, in the 
beautiful grounds of Professor Buchanan at ArdfiUan, in the Bull- 
wood. It has since been found, in great abundance, in this and other 
parishes, but nowhere, perhaps, growing more luxuriantly than in the 
singular rents and chasms of Benmore^ the picturesque property 
of George R. Wilsone Esq.* 

We cannot dismiss the subject of the vegetation of the parish, wit b- 

* Obligingly communicated to Dr Mackay by Sir William J. Hooker. 



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586 ABGYLESHIRE. 

out remarking how admirably a great extent of it is calculated for the 
growing of timber, not only of the fir kind, but of oak and other Iciinls 
of hard-wood. The extensive and beautiful plantations of Archi- 
bald Douglas Esq. of Glenfinart, James Hunter Esq. of Hafton, 
George R. Wilsone Esq. of Benmore, and, on a still more exten- 
sive scale, those of Alexander S. Finlay Esq. of Castle Toward, 
amply attest this fact, as do many individual older trees here aod 
there throughout the parish. An avenue of limes near the churdi 
of Kihnun contains specimens of a very superior order; and must 
be, it is supposed, upwards of 200 years old, and all of them still 
showing perfect vigour and healthiness. Among the beautiful 
native trees which grace the district, the holly must not be passed 
without notice. Perhaps in no part of Scotland are the uupro- 
tected groups of this handsome and hardy evergreen seen larger 
in size, or more perfect in form, than on the farm of Orchard oo 
the Hafton estate b this parish^-^-some single specimens near the 
farm-house there showing a trunk of about three and a half feet 
in circumference, and a height of more than 23 feet 
. ' Plantations. — In the united parish, the plantations cover 2167 
imperial acres. Larch and Scotch fir are in these by far the pre- 
vailing kinds of timber, and all of them may be said to be in a 
most thriving condition. The oldest larch is on the lands of 
Glenfinart ; and around the house of Glenfinart, and in the lawn, 
there are oak, sycamore, and beech trees of great age and sae, 
which form a fine contrast to the bold and rugged scenery arouod. 
The most extensive of those plantations, taken separately, are 
those on the estates of Castle Toward and Glenfinart On 
the estate of Castle Toward, the plantations were begun by the 
late Kirkman Finlay Esq. on his purchasing those lands in the 
year 1318. Down from that period till 1841, there were planted 
by him nearly 5,000,000 of trees, now covering about 900 impe- 
rial acres in this parish, besides about 30 acres in the parish of 
Inverchaolain, into which the. lands of the Castle Toward estate 
extend. The planting here, though begun chiefly with larch, ex- 
cept on the pleasure-grounds, where every variety of tree and 
shrub suited to the climate has been introduced, was intended, 
by a judicious arrangement of hard* wood intermingled, eq>ecially 
oak, to be brought ultimately to contain, in most parts of the 
extent, the oak and other hard-woods exclusively* This inten- 
tion is in course of being followed out, and the oak and other hard 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 587 

woods seem to vie with the larch in vigorous and healthy growth. 
Some of the other plantations mentioned have rather suffered from 
want of attention to early thinning ; but they have all of them 
been, for several years past, attended to with great care, and the 
favourable results are very manifest. It would, indeed, be dif- 
ficult to say to which of the kinds of timber planted the soil and 
climate appear to be most adapted, where all kinds may be said 
to thrive so prosperously. The comparative value of the different 
kinds in the market must vary with circumstances, over which land- 
owners locally can have no control. But there can be no ques^ 
tion, that the soil and climate are adapted to the rearing and 
growth of the oak, — the royal timber of Great Britain, for which 
timber its markets will always afford demand, while it continues to 
be the great maritime power of the civilized world. But little of 
the parochial territory adapted to planting as much as the parts 
of it planted already, has yet been turned to that use. Of the 
ornament and shelter, not to speak of profitable returns which 
planting affords, the lands of Castle Toward, Glenfinart, and Haf- 
ton, in this united parish, are very striking instances. The late 
Mr Finlay of Castle Toward pursued the system throughout of 
planting the arable soils of inferior quality, while he improved, by 
liberal and judicious expenditure, the richer portions, bringing 
these into the highest state of cultivation by systematic farm hus* 
bandry. 

Zoology. — There are none of the rarer species of animals found 
in the parish ; and the zoology is generally the same with that of 
all other portions of the west of Scotland. Among quadrupeds, 
the mountain red deer may be said to have become extinct, both 
in this parish and in the whole district of Cowal ; though, down 
to a very recent period, the parish of Kilmun embraced a deer 
forest, CotV-on-Tt, on Benmore. The system of sheep farming 
has no doubt conduced to this, causing the hills in the district to 
be more frequented than formerly, both by men and dogs, distur- 
bances which that noble animal brooks not. The late Kirkman 
Finlay Esq. of Castle Toward, among his many improvements, 
introduced a species of American deer into his grounds at Castle 
Toward, where they thrive prosperously. It is an animal growing 
apparently to the size and weight of an ordinary red deer, or 
nearly, and is of a lighter colour, but not possessing (and what 
anima) does?) the noble symmetrical form and bearing of the red 



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568 AROYLESHIRE. 

deer; and seems to have predilectioo for park shelter and pasturage* 
Hares are very numerous; and the alpine hare has also been 
frequently found in the higher grounds. Foxes, martens, pole- 
cats and wild cats, otters, and weasels are also frequent The roe is 
common, though not very numerous, in the plantations and copse- 
woods throughout the united parish. 

Of domestic and agricultural zoology, there is no uncommon 
species or kind to be noted. The parish sustains an equal charac- 
ter with the other districts of Argyleshire and the west Highlands, 
for rearing the particular kind of black-cattle, denominated in the 
markets, <* West Highlanders,'' the qualities and appearance of 
which are suflBciently known. This breed, indeed, has, within the 
last twenty years or upwards, in this parish, yielded very much to 
the Ayrshire breed,— -dairy produce having become more an ob- 
ject of attention, as forming a part of systematic agricultural pur- 
suit. There is no doubt, however, that the West Highland breed 
claim stronger alliance to the climate and soil ; and it appears a 
question among experienced farmers, whether these might not, in 
the whole district, upon the whole, form a more profitable stocL 
The black-faced sheep, of which there are several and considera- 
ble flocks, is almost the only species reared. Cheviots were con- 
sidered for a long time to yield better returns in Scotland to the 
sheep farmer; and both from the nature of the pasture and com* 
parative mildness of the climate, one would suppose this district 
much more adapted to the rearing of that breeid of sheep, than 
the more northerly and mountainous parts of Scotland, whence 
the largest flocks of them are now annually driven to the mariLOts 
of the south ; but the humidity incident to the western coast is 
judged to be unfavourable to them, inducing disease. There is 
no particular breed of horses. The native Highland pony may 
be said to have disappeared, and to have given way to the more 
profitable working animal, this of course varying in value and 
quality, according to the circumstances of the owner, and the de- 
gree of system with which, on the different properties in the parish, 
agricultural pursuits are conducted. On several of the farms, 
cattle of this kind are to be seen equal to any that can be met 
with in the most highly cultivated districts of Scotland. Two 
small flocks of goats are still kept in the parish. 

OmUhohgy. — There are no rare or uncommon species of birds. 
The common birds of prey are not very numerous ; the attention 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 589 

paid to the rearing of sheep-stock has diminished the number of 
the more powerful of these, though the eagle may still be seen 
claiming its right to the fastnesses presented in the uplands, and 
especially along the south-eastern side of Loch Eck. The minor 
kinds are also diminished in number, by the attention paid to th& 
preservation of game. Of game, partridges, grouse, and black- 
game are pretty numerous ; the last-mentioned said to be increas* 
ing. Ptarmigan are found on the highest hills in the parish, 
though their number is but small, and their race thought to 
be almost extinct. Pheasants were introduced several years ago, 
and have become pretty numerous in the several plantations 
and pleasure grounds. The snipe, the gray and green plover, 
the woodcock, and the landrail, in their season are numerous. 
Of birds of passage, the two last-mentioned and the cuckoo^ the 
common swallow, the lapwing, the water-wagtail, are numerously 
seen. The heron is frequent along the coast ; it haunts the 
marshy grounds in the parish, and frequently nestles. Not many 
years since, they formed a regular heronry in a clump of Scotch 
firs, not far from Hafton House, but they have latterly again 
abandoned it The curlew is very frequent, and may be seen al- 
most daily in considerable numbers, especially at the inland ex* 
tremity, and along the shores of the Holy Loch. It does not ap- 
pear to be considered as game ; nor is it nor the heron, in this 
part of Scotland, considered as fit for the table, while, in other 
parts of the country, both are highly esteemed. The kinds of 
aquatic birds frequenting the coast are not very numerous. With 
respect to the sea-coast, indeed, the constant traffic and passing 
of steamers is more than sufficient to scare such tribes. Large 
numbers of aquatic fowls during the winter are frequently seen to 
frequent the Holy Loch, at its inland extremity, but seldom 
are allowed to remain long unmolested. On the small loch at 
Dunloskin, the water-hen or water-coot may be frequently observ- 
ed, interesting in its apparent love of solitude, and of solitary play- 
fulness ; but it is still more remarkable for its architectural skill, 
and is said to build its nest on the water, floating and moveable. 
From the season of the year at which it is seen frequenting this 
lake, it most probably builds, though neither its young, nor any 
specimen of its nest have been discovered. The ordinary species 
of smaller birds are common and numerous ; while the thrush, the 
blackbird, and the robin contribute their share, with the sky-lark 



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590 AttGYLBSHIBB. 

and the cuckoo, to the music of the gladsome seasons of the year. 
The blackbird levies tribute, which horticulturists consider oppres- 
sive in the fruit season ; and the spurious breed of it, described by 
the author of ^' the Manse Garden,'' has, of late years, become 
so abundant, as to be considered a positive annoyance. The com- 
mon rooky though not inhabiting the parish, frequents it, in the 
seasons of spring and harvest particularly, in great numbers, and to 
such a degree as to render its visits scarcely welcome to the agri- 
culturist. 

/fuec^— There are no species particularly destructive to vege- 
tation or cultivated crops, except the caterpillar, to small fruit and 
other kinds of garden produce. Midges, during the earlier autumn 
months, are considered to be both numerous and offensive, espe- 
cially in the more wooded and sheltered localities along the coast. 
The glow-worm is frequently seen in the autumn evenings, fre- 
quenting sheltered banks along the public roads, and appears to 
have predilection for soft herbage, as its retreats are in the neigh- 
bourhood of marshy grounds. Bees are cultivated^ but not very 
generally, throughout the parish ; and though, in some seasons, 
they prosper abundantly, the general humidity of the atmosphere 
seems to prevent their regular prosperity. 

RqoiUes.'^The common vi|>er is sometimes seen, but is by no 
means frequent The common lizard is also a native of the dis- 
trict, but is far from being numerous. 

lehihyeloffy. — The fresh water species in this department are 
generally those common to all parts of the country. Salmon has 
free access to Loch Eck, along the river Eachaig, from the Holy 
Loch, and does not ascend that stream in any number till a com- 
paratively late season of the year, towards the end of June, in 
July, and August The fishing of this river is owned by Mr 
Campbell of Monzie, and that of Loch Eck by the respective pro- 
prietors along its banks. The resort of salmon to this stream 
and lake must be considerable. The fishing at the entrance of 
the river into the sea, at Kilmun, is usually let to a tenant ; and 
the unhappy river itself is sadly punished, day by day, during the 
open season at least, by innumerable aspirants to the triumphs of 
this species of sport, not all certainly of the Isaac Walton school ; 
and yet considerable numbers of the noble fish, braving, no doubt, 
many a fright on their way to the lake, fall there to the drag«net 
and the rod. Grilse and sea-trout are taken on the Eachaig at 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 5^1 

an earlier period of the year than salmon. Pike occurs on the 
small lake at Dunlosktn, and only there in the parish. Loch Eck 
abounds with the small fish commonly called the fresh water her- 
ring, (the Gtoyniad of Pennant, and Salmo Lavareius of Lin*, 
nseus,) and by the country people the powan. Its resemblance to 
the proper herring, in shape, colour, and, so far as an eye not 
specially skilled in ichthyology can detect, in scales and fins, appears 
perfect. Its size is smaller, seldom exceeding six or eight inches 
in length. Its fish tastes difierently also from that of the real her- 
ring, and IS considered rather insipid. Another small fish is also 
taken on Loch Eck, though not frequently, or in any numbers, 
called by the country people the Goldie^ which is said to be 
uncommon. It is in length not more than four or five inches, 
and of a beautiful golden hue when taken out of the water, and 
changes its hues of colour in interesting and beautiful yariety. 
When held up by the hand, it appears almost transparent, and 
seems a creature of peculiarly delicate structure. No specimen 
of it has happened to be seen by the writer ; but it is supposed ta 
have become a tenant of this lake under the auspices of the eccle- 
siastics, in former times holding considerable possessions at Kil* 
mun and along the Eachaig. Another minute fish abounds in 
Loch Eck, not exceeding in size a common minnow, called by the 
country people the stickleback. Its peculiarities, as distinguishing 
it from the minnow, are long thorny prickles on both sides of the 
bead, and also in its dorsal fins, which it has the power of raising 
erect when pursued or threatened, and thus it protects itself from its 
more powerful neighbours. Flounders and eels are also common 
in Loch Eck ; and the lamprey eel is also taken, but not frequently. 
The ordinary kinds of common trout are numerous in the minor 
streams in the parish, seldom exceeding a pound in weight, and 
not very commonly found at that size.* 

The salt water kinds of fish are also the common ones. Had- 
dock, cod (the species of the last commonly called rock-cod,) skate, 
flounder, eels, the conger eel, frequently of very large size ; the 
cole fish, at a certain stage df its growth popularly called seathe 
along the west coast, in great abundance during tiie summer and 
autumn ; whiting, sea perch, mackerel, gurnet, and sole, — are all. 
taken, the last mentioned not frequently, though they are known 

* A considerable number of gold and silver-fisbcs have been, within the last few 
yean, introduced into Loch Eck by Mr Wilsone of Benmore. The species is found 
to thrive i|i ponds, in pleasure grounds near Dunoon. They may probably do so 
in Loch Eck ; and their origin there merits to be recorded. 



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592 ARGYLE8H1RB. 

to inhabit the Frith of Clyde in abundance* Scarcely any syste* 
matic pursuit of this important branch of industry is followed in 
the parish* It may be said, that scarcely any of the population 
are fishermen by trade, except a few who confine their attention 
to the herring fishing in its season ; and the few persons resorting 
to the occupation of fishing doing so rather from necessity than 
from choice or habit, and with but indifferent findings, and only 
in the more sheltered parts of the frith. The quality of the fish 
caught is but inferior generally, and the market in Dunoon but 
indifferently supplied. Salmon fishing along the sea coast, with 
a kind of net recently introduced, called a bag-net, has been fol- 
lowed for the last few years, and with considerable success, by 
an enterprising respectable family in the neighbouring parish of 
Kilfinan, the Messrs Scoular. The shoals of herring annually 
resorting to Loch Fine and the neighbouring arms of the sea, 
seldom visit the coast of this parish or the Holy Loch. For the 
last eleyen years, no considerable take of them has occurred but 
once. Individual herrings, sometimes to the number of a few 
dozens, in the early part of summer, are frequently taken by the 
rod, and with the ordinary fly bait used for the seathe. The her- 
rings thus taken are considered inferior in quality, — apparently 
stragglers from the aquatic camp of the great bodies of that rather 
mysterious fish. 

Shdl'JUh. — Lobsters and crabs are found frequently, but not in 
great numbers, the fishing of the former not being systematically 
pursued, though there is no portion of the coast of Scotland more 
likely to yield a good return to that special department of fishing 
occupation, and within such easy access to the Glasgow market 
There are no beds of oysters meriting notice, though they are 
found mostly along the whole coast of the parish, but thinly scat- 
tered, and considered to be of excellent quality. In the Holy- 
Loch, towards its inland extremity, and the bay of Ardentinny, 
there are mussel scalps of natural growth and of very considerable 
extent. In the former place they are now begun to be preserved 
by the proprietor, Mr Hunter of Hafton ; and, by careful preser- 
vation, may speedily be extended over a surface of many acres. 
Along the sands in the same place, laid bare at every tide, the 
common cockle abounds. It is not considered here as an article 
of food, and scarcely so used at all ; while, in certain parts of 
Scotland, it is considered a delicacy, and is found of considerable 
importance as an article of food. It is quite certain that this de* 



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DUNOON AND KiLMUN. 69S 

Ifcate shell-fish is capable of being cultivated ; the more the sand 
which it inhabits is turned up in searching for it, giving it in pro- 
cess of time a consistency and degree of hardness which seems to 
favour the growth and increase of the cockle. Considerable quan- 
tities might, even now, at every tide be gathered ; and it might 
afford profitable occupation to many a humble individual, were but 
local prejudices surmounted* At spring-tides, and especially those 
occurring about the time of the vernal equinox, when the greatest 
extent of sea-sand along the coast is laid bare, spout-fish, or razor^'' 
fish, are found in great numbers. The ordinary minor tribes of 
shellfish abound along the coast 

11. — Civil History. 
No ancient history of this district is known to exist. But there 
are not entirely wanting notices and references, in writings of un* 
doubted antiquity, indicating that, in the earlier centuries, there 
was close and constant intercourse between Ireland and the dis*> 
trict of Cowal. The tradition of the Laments being the posses- 
sors of the whole district of Cowal is still, universal among the 
native inhabitants. And whatever may have been the fact, as to 
whether that clan sprung from the Dalriadic colony, or whether 
they were the descendants of a still earlier race of occupants, it is 
obvious, so far as tradition can go to establish it, that the La- 
ments assumed the superiority of this district at a very early period. 
Mr Skene, in his very valuable work, " The Highlanders of Scot- 
land,'* remarks, ** there are few traditions more universally believed 
in the Highlands, or which -can be traced back to an earlier period, 
than that the Laments were the ancient possessors of Cowal. And 
it is abundantly clear, from historical notices connected with the 
district, that they continued to be the possessors of the district, 
and their name the prevailing one, down to a period comparatively 
late, — the middle of the seventeenth century." Our notices on this 
head must be necessarily brief. The general result of inquiries 
directed to this subject is, that the extension of the power and 
rights of the Scottish monarchy evidently operated as a disturbing 
force on the more ancient order of things in this district, issuing 
in the event, too frequently still the concomitant both of conquest 
and colonization,— the dislodging of the native inhabitants, and 
the rapid obscuration of their actual history. It appears that 
Crown charters were unknown in Cowal down to the time of 
Alexander II. The first of the Stewart family is admitted to 
have been Walter^tt/^ Alaniy who had the island of Bute given 

ARGYLE. r p 



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594 ARGYLESHIRE. 

bim by David !.» a. d. 1135, and was created High Steward cX 
Scotland by Malcolm IV.; and il farther appears as if he had ob- 
tained the lordship of Cowal, not by royal charter in the first in- 
stance, but by marriage with an heiress of the Lamont clan. 
And while the events of Scottish history which first placed 
the Stewart dynasty on the throne, form so important a portion of 
that history in general, it is pretty obvious that those events were 
the means of extending over the greater part at least of the district 
of Cowal the sway of the ancestors of the house of Ai^le,— the 
Campbells of Lochawe, who were among the first and the most 
active supporters of *' Robert the Steward." Their services were 
requited by grants: and while it may be considered capable of his- 
torical demonstration that the first royal grants affecting the supe- 
riority or lordship of Cowal did not immediately tend to the up> 
rooting of the more ancient possessors, the Lamonts, the same 
cannot be said of the superiority acquired by the Campbells. Va- 
rious portions of the district of Cowal and of this united parish 
are traced, in times almost immediately subsequent, into the pos- 
session of individuals and families of the name of Campbell, the 
allies and the relatives of the house of I^ochawe and Argyle. 
This later subdivision of the territory of the greater portion of 
Cowal under the sway of the Campbells has continued, partially, 
down to present times. And in times, more strictly speaking, re- 
cent, the tenure of property in this united parish has undergone 
more of transference than perhaps has occurred, within the like 
period, in any other portion of the Highlands,— issuing into the 
$ubsisting result, from aggregate causes, of landed property in this 
parish commanding as high a market price as in any district of 
Scotland at large. And modern improvements, liberally con- 
ducted, promise, with the operation of the same causes, to main- 
tain the value of land at the same rate. The revolution may be 
said, here, to be completed, of the age and times commonly called 
feudal having passed away, and the commercial age, bringing its 
own benefits doubtless, having been established in its stead. 

Antiquities, — Conjmencing the brief notices of these which our 
assigned limits permit, it is felt due to the tnemory of a period 
unknown, or at least not fully ascertained, to notice the frequency 
of what are commonly called, " stone coffins," which are found 
generally not far from the sea shore. No striking rude obe- 
lisks or pillars anywhere in the parish mark the scenes of bat- 
tles and slaughters, and the fall of leaders and chiefs. Rut the 



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DUNOON AND EILMUN. 595 

frequent occurrence of these depositories of the dead indicate that 
Che times of old were not always times of peace to the ancient in- 
habitants. Within the space now occupied 1>y the villages of 
Dunoon and Kilmun, and on the lands of Castle Toward and 
other localities, and where no indications whatever occur of those 
spots having been dedicated exclusively to the use of ordinary se- 
pulture, these resting-places of a race unknown are found to be 
very numerous. The stone coflSn is formed of three rude slabs of 
the native schistose slate, one laid flat forming the bottom of the 
coflBn, the other two placed over this at an angle to make them 
meet at top, and no other security appears to have been sought. 
The earth is levelled around, and the coffin not much more than 
.barely covered by the shingly soil, where they are most frequently 
found to occur. The skeleton is generally found entire. The 
writer regrets not having had personal opportunity of examining 
many of these interesting depositories, proclaiming as they do the 
passing nature of this world's history. There is reason, however, 
to believe, that they are found showing that no special position of 
•the body was studied, the extremities lying towards the east, west, 
south, or north) as convenience appeared to dictate. On opening 
one of these graves lately, the skeleton was found beautifully ** laid 
out," every bone, to the smallest, occupying its natural anatomjcal 
place ; the tibial bones indicating a person five feet ten inches high, 
or thereabout. The skeleton is found reposing upon gravel or 
sea^beach shingle, clean and pure as if washed by the last sea- 
tide, while evidently no disturbing force had ever visited *^ the nar- 
row house." Whether this effect may have been produced by the 
ordinary process of percolation of moisture from the surface, or 
whether, indeed, as does appear the more probable conjecture, the 
grave being situated not more than fifteen feet above the present 
level of the sea, that this level may have both risen and again 
fallen since the period of inhumation, is not easily decided. The 
writer feels inclined to adopt the latter theory, and thus a very re- 
inote' period must be assigned to this mode of sepulture. The 
bones are found perfectly entire, tinged of a pretty deep brownish 
hue, but friable almost to the touch. 

What appears evidently to have once been a Druidical altar, 
or Crom4eaCj occurs on the farm of Ardnadam, on the Hafton es- 
tate. Popular story had elevated it to the rank of a royal grave, 
and of royalty bearing the name most illustrious of all' for anti- 
quity, — Adam I but a diligent search at the foundation, proven 



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596 ABOYLESHIRE. 

by the result not to be sacrilegious, has negatiyed the popular 
story, — ^Do disturbance of the subsoil manifestly having ever before 
taken place. The top-stone of the cromAeac is seen still oo- 
cupying its proper place; and the pillars indicate a place of 
highly respectable order in its day; and the native oak still* 
amidst all vicissitudes, continuing to claim alliance with the 
soil, points out that this spot, not improbably, formed the 
grove of the district, where Druidic priesthood and worship- 
pers had once their resort and their orgies* 

On the farm of Ardinslat, on the Hafton estate, there is presented, 
what no one, who has had occasion to see and mark any number of 
such acknowledged remains, can doubt for a moment to be Roman. 
It now presents itself as a green mound, an oblong square, about 
90 feet in length, by about 73 in breadth, raised about ten fi^t 
above the surrounding level ; the fossa clearly traceable around 
it, as well as the entrance, though the latter has been partly obli- 
terated by the erection of some modern enclosures. The sides 
of the mound are seen bearing, as indeed the whole of it does, 
that compacted smoothness and finish which is always found mark- 
ing the labour of the Roman soldier, and the same slope on all 
the sides, which is always seen characterizing their military labours 
of the same description. That Agricola, on one occasion, ran 
his* fleet up Loch Fine, to the westward of the district of Cowal, 
Is well known. Traces of the soldiery having landed at the place 
of Otter, on the side of Loch Fine, have been discovered, thougb 
there is no evidence of their having formed any regular encamp- 
ment there. And whether any division of that army penetrated ac- 
ross the district of Cowal to the Frith of Clyde, is not certain. In 
such a march, indeed, exceeding twenty-five miles by modem coid> 
putation, it may be supposed they would have marked it by some 
other military works, less or more distinct, had they crossed this 
territory. None such, we believe, has been noticed along any route 
by which they could have marched. And the most probable con- 
jecture to be formed regarding this mark of their operations is» 
that, while engaged in the important labour of erecting their wall 
from Abercorn to Dunglass, on the Clyde, they would station an 
outpost here, to communicate with the main body by signal, giving 
alarm of any danger approaching seaward. The spot selected for 
the statiorij for such it may be called, appears at once particularly 
well chosen for such a purpose, situated at the foot of a consider- 
able eminence, the summit of which could be gained from the 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 597 

Station in two minutes, and whence a clear and extensive view of 
the frith is commanded,. both seaward from its entrance, and in- 
wards uninterruptedly to the rock of Dumbarton. The spot cho* 
sen would thus have suited the purposes of a modern military 
picquet&r better than Dunoon Castle, which, though commanding 
the best seaward view of the frith, does not command the inland 
view so far as to Dumbarton Castle. 

Dunoon Castle, — There .is ample evidence on record of this castle 
having been in existence in the twelfth century, when the influence 
and power of the Scottish monarchy, properly so called, began to be 
practically exercised in this portion of the Scottish dominions. But 
we are inclined to ascribe to it an origin by many centuries earlier 
than that period. Were we to follow conjecture, or to form a 
theory founded upon tradition, language, and local usages, — not 
always in inquiries of this kind without their value, we would assign 
to this fortalice, as the probable Idttest date of its foundation, the 
period of the Dalriadic colony obtaining possession or sovereignty 
in Cowal in the sixth century. * 

* The uses of the word Diin, in the native language of Scotland, are sufficiently 
well known. Nor can it be qaeBtioned, whaterer may haye been the origin of the 
building or its remote date, the native language would so designate any defensive 
erection as well as the rock itself. One theory of the etymology of Dunoon has been 
already offered. But it may now be ventured, on grounds to be suted immediately, 
to fix a particular signification to the word « adidheanC here, i. e, strangers. With- 
out any prejudice to the theory already submitted, it is considered that foundation 
exists for supposing that *^ addheau" strangers, of a particular class, did at one time 
obtain possession or mastery over this DQn. They have fixed, in local history and 
usage, traces of themselves. While in the Scottish dialect of the Gaelic language, a 
stronghold of this kind is called Dikn ; in the Irish dialect, the word Mikr, or Miiir« 
has the same signification. Both the terms, no doubt, occur in ancient writings, 
unquestionably Irish ; but it in sufficiently known that the term Mikr, for a fortress, 
was never, so far as known, the appellative popularly used in Scotland. Another 
word constantly occurring in Irish writings, and never, so fkr as known to us, in 
the popular Scottish dialect of the Gaelic, is kmn^ signifying in the Irish dialect 
any inclosure, such as a garden or field. And we cannot doubt but the term bord" 
land^ or borde-land, occurring in several charters connected with Dunoon, is derived 
.from, or rather is a corruption of the Celtic mitrJann^ the labial consonants m and b 
continually interchanging even in the same language. This term bord-laud, is found 
in charters, designating certain lands around Dunoon Castle, as in the charter 
under the Great Seal, granted January 18, 1472, ** to Colin Earl of Argyll, Lome, 
and Campbell, Master of our Household, granting him the keeping of our Castle of 
Dunoon, with power to appoint constables, janitors, jailors, and other officers for the 
keeping of the said castlei'* and granting and conceding ** the lands of Borde-land and 
their pertinents, extending to twenty-seven merks current coin of our realm.'* This 
term appears to have pussled certain of our Scottish antiquarian etymokigists not a 
little ; whereas its meaning in Gaelic, or at least in the Irish dialect of that language, 
is perfectly oh^io^iBf^Mur-hnn^ t. e, the enclosures or fields attached to the casde, 
or apprY>priated to its more immediate uses. It also appears by similar evidence of 
charters, that the same term was extended to designate a still wider range of lan^ 
in and near Dunoon, than those meant in the particular charter cited. These lands 
being held of the castle or its occupants, the occupiers of the lands would naturally 
fall to be considered vassals. And what decides, to our apprehension, both the eiy 



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598 ARGYLESHIBB. 

The small portions of the walls still exposed do not iodicate a 
period earlier than the fourteenth or fifteenth century* The castle 
shared in the tumultuary events of its country's history. It was be* 
sieged and taken by Baliol in 1333, and again retaken by ^' Robert 
the Steward" in 1 334, and it may be supposed to ha?e been first raised 
to the rank of a palace when he ascended the throne. The royal 
charter already quoted proves the Argyle family to have acquired 
the lordship of it in 1472, as they'most probably did indeed a consi- 
derable time before that date, both of this castle and of most of the 
lands in the district, denominated '< King's Cowal," or *< Steward's 
Cowal," excluding, it is believed, the district of Kerry (now the 
parish of Kilfinan), and Stralachlan and Strachur. The castle 
was again besieged by the Earl of Lennox, in his descent on the 
west of Scotland in 1554, when the Earl of Argyle was obliged 
to abandon it with considerable loss. Most probably, the more 
modern masonry, which portions of the walls disclose, may have 
been executed subsequently to that event by the Argyle family, 
and previously to 1563, when it was visited by Queen Mary. 
Charters are extant, granted by Queen Mary, on occasion of thb 
visit. It appears to have continued to be a residence of the Ar- 
gyle family, till the earlier part of the seventeenth century. The 
political convulsions of that period, in which that noble family 
shared and suffered so deeply, appear to have caused, with other 
effects to them, their ceasing to reside in Dunoon Castle ; and the 
last public event connected with its history occurred in connection 
with their interests in 1646, when deeds of barbarous atrocity were 

mology and iu origin, is a usage of the district and of its dialect, now almost Ibr- 
gotten. The inhabitants of the riUage of Dunoon, as it fonnerly existed, and oTa 
certain space around it, were styled by their neighbours in Cowal, Mur-lanmoich^ i e 
the men or the race of the Mur-lann, the castle ** pertinents,**— the term bang nasd 
as a kind of jocose uunt, implying against them some r^roach of vassalage or ser* 
rility. And however groundlenly applied in more modem times, the inhabitants of 
this particular locality being equal in all respectt of good ikme to their neigbbonrs 
using the uunt, yet its application indicated the origin of the appellathre. And 
though this may appear to some but slender foundation Ibr a historical theory, yet, 
when considered with the ordinary local usage and speech, the term, in its eompo* 
nent parts, being foreign to the native dialect, and manifestly Irish, together with the 
popular idea attached to it, amounts, in our apprehenuon, to no mean historical avi- 
dence, that this castle had its remote period of Irish, or rather Oalriadic away ; 
and that that colony very probably were the ttrangen after all, who gave to Dunoon 
its preaent eiisting name, l^he raal signification of the term M^r-ktmmkh appears, 
more recently at least, to have become unknown to those emplOTing it, while still ha 
usage continued to prevail, showing both the antiquity and uie foreignness of ha 
origin. It IS indeed but natural to suppose, Uiat a conquering colony would have 
their attention directed to such a spot, and that one of their first measurea would be 
to put it in proper defensive condition ; and hence» most probably, it bad beoome • 
place of importance in the district, several centuries prerious to the period whca w* 
find it gifted to the High Steward of Scotland. 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 599 

eominitted by certain leaders of the Campbells, in the viciDity of 
the castle. The statement of those atrocities, as exhibited in the 
indictment against the Marquis of Argyle, may fairly be consid- 
ered as not at least underrated. The public prosecutor of the 
day has recourse even to popular superstitions to aid in vilifying 
the character of the accused party. But, making all allowances 
for exaggeration, it is too abundantly certain, while the noble de- 
fendant pleads his having been no party to these atrocities, that 
they were of no ordinary type ; and, whatever may have been the 
innocency of the Marquis of Argyle personally in this most infa- 
mous transaction, it is but too evident, that the leaders of his clan 
took advantage of existing turmoils to wage a war of extermination 
against the clan Lament The indictment of the Marquis of Argyle 
bears, that certain of his elan having besieged and forced to a 
surrender the houses of Toward and Escog, then the property 
of Sir James Lament, having violated the terms of the capi- 
tulation on which the surrender was made, <^ did most treacher- 
ously, perBdiously, and traitorously fetter and bind the hands of 
near 200 persons of the said Sir James's friends and followers, 
who were comprehended within the said capitulation, detaining 
them prisoners with a guards their hands being bound behind their 
backs like thieves, within the said Sir James's house and y^rds of 
Towart, for the space of several days, in great torment and misery ;" 
and, *< in pursuance of their farther villany, afber plundering and 
robbing all that was within and about the said house, they most 
barbarously, cruelly, and inhumanly murdered several, young and 
old, yea, sucking children, some of them not one month old." And 
again, ^' The said persons, defendants, or one or others of them, 
contrary to the foresaid capitulations, our laws, and acts of Par- 
liament, upon the day of June 1646, most traitorously and 

perBdiously did carry the whole people who were in the said houses 
of Eicog and Towart^ in the said boats, to the village of 'Dunoone, 
and there most cruelly, traitorously, and perfidiously cause hang 
upon one tree near the number of thirty-six persons, most of them 
being special gentlemen of the name of Lamontf and vassals to the 
said Sir James." And, after enumerating these persons, the in- 
dictment proceeds to enumerate others, who were likewise *^ bar- 
barously, inhumanly, and uuchristianly murdered with dirks, and 
cut down with swords and pistols ;'* and *^ John Jamison, then 
Provost of Rothesay, who, being shot thrice through the body, 



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600 ARGTLESHIRE, 

findiug some life in him, (they) did thrust several durks and skenes 
in him, and at last did cut his throat with a long durk." — *^ And 
to manifest their further cruelty, they did cast some of the afore- 
said persons into holes made for them, who were spurning and 
wrestling, whilst. they were suffocated with earth ; having denied 
to them any time to recommend themselves to C^od, albeit ear- 
nestly desired and begged by the said murdered persons. Inso- 
much that the Lord from heaven did declare His wrath and dis- 
pleasure against the foresaid inhuman cruelty, by striking the tree 
whereon they were hanged in the said month of June, being a 
lively, fresh growing ash-tree nt the kirk-yard of Denoone^ among 
many other fresh trees with leaves, — the Lord struck the said tree 
immediately thereafter ; so that the whole leaves fell from it, and 
the tree withered, never bearing leaves thereafter, remaining so 
for the space of two years, which, being cut down, there sprang 
out of the very heart of the root thereof a spring like unto bloody 
popling up, running in several streams all over the root, and that 
for several years thereafter, till the said murderersi or their fa- 
vourers, perceiving that it was remarked by persons (^ all ranks 
(resorting there to see the miracle), they did cause howk out the 
root, covering the whole with earth, which was full of the said 
matter like blood." That such a document as this, especially in 
the times, and in the circumstances in which it was drawn up, 
should exaggerate, cannot be doubted. But it is evident that too 
much of it must have been matter of fact, and is to be viewed, and 
happily, as the last outbreak of fierce misrule, occasioned perhaps 
by a long course of mutual provocations between a party, the La^ 
monts, who considered themselves the original possessors of the 
territory, and another party, the Campbells, who, it is historically 
evident, had been obtaining the ascendency in the district, ever 
since the transference of its lordship from the hands of the Stew- 
ards to those of the house of Argyle. It does not appear that 
Dunoon Castle was ever inhabited after this period, but was al* 
lowed to fall into decay. 

The old Castle of Toward, the residence of the chief of the 
Laments, or at least of some principal cadet of the family, desig- 
nated in the indictment now cited as the house of Sir James 
Lamond, is a ruin, apparently of no earlier date, as a building, 
than the fourteenth or fifteenth century, of the style common to that 
age. It does not appear to have been inhabited at any time sub« 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 601 

setiuent to the period when it was the scene of the cruelties set 
forth in this indictment. 

In ecclesiastical antiquities the parish is not particularly rich* 
Besides the churches of Dunoon and Kilmun, there was but one 
chapelry, of which any traces remain. This was dedicated to the 
Virgin, and situated on the farm of Toward*an'^iit72^,* 

The ecclesiastical establishment of Dunoon appears to have 
b«en but an ordinary parochial one ; though popular tradition 
places an Episcopal residence there. There is no evidence extant, 
so far as known to the writer, that any of the bishops of the olden 
time had their residence here. Certain graves are pointed out in 
the burying-ground as those of bishops, and the fact is not im- 
probable. They appear but of comparatively late date, and the 

* There is a special interest traditionally connected with its place of sepulture 
(now scarcely discernible), from its containing the graye of MacGregor of Glenstme, 
whose burial occurring here is connected with a storj of the times, indicating ihat, 
as they were periods of anarchy and blood, neither were they without their manifes- 
tations of a natural generosity. The Lamont of the day occupying the Castle of 
Toward, had gone, during hb early life, on a hunting cicursion, and to visit 
MacGregor of Glenstrae. The only son and child of this MacGregor, a youth of 
Lamont^ own age, was his companion in the forest during the visit, and, accom- 
panied by the necessary number of MacGregor's retainers, they had occasion to spend 
a winter*s night in some cave or shelter, no uncommon practice among Highlanders 
of the time when following the chase. During the night, unhappUy, the two had a 
quarrel, when the young, MacGregor fell, mortally wounded, under the sword or the 
dirk of Lamont. Lamont, as may be supposed, betook himself to flight, to evade the 
immediate vengeance of MacGregor's retainers. Wandering in the dark, and a 
stranger in the bounds where he wandered, espying a light, he made for it, and did 
Bot, in his perturbation, perceive till he had entered the house, that It was the house 
of the father whose only son had fallen, but a few hours before,— >the victim of his 
unhappy anger. The old MacGregor intuitively perceived, by the perturbation of 
lamont, what it was that had happened. To his honour he commanded his feel- 
ings, and said to Lamont, *•* Here, this night, shall you be safe.*^ On the retainers 
arriving, Lamont was protected from their fury by the bereaved and heart-stricken, 
but manly and generous father. During the nisht he accosted Lamont, and address- 
ing hidiself to a journey, commands Lamont to follow him, and conducting him from 
his residence of Glenstrae, near Glenorchy, across hill and mountain, till they arrived 
at the place of Dun-da-rkmh on Lochfine ; — MacGregor secures a boat and oars for 
Lamont to ferry him across to Cowal — " Go," said he, ** flee for jour life — land in 
your own country, and there shall we pursue you — save yourself if you can." For 
many years, Lamont, having escaped the vengeance of the bereaved father and clan, 
was safe in his castle at Toward. Events of a different kind pursued the bereaved 
MacGregor of Glenstrae. By rapacious and more powerful neighbours, he was not 
only stripped of his lands, but pursued as a culprit under show of offended justice,— 
the common stratagem of the times on the part of powerful and unprincipled oppres- 
sors. MacGregor made for Cowal and for the Castle of Toward, and, arriving there, 
forsaken and scathed by the world, he sought protection and refuge from Lamont. This 
was most cordially and heartily granted. TJie venerable and bereaved MacGregor of 
Glenstrae lived for years the guest of Lamont, — the one forgiving, the other joyful 
not only in the forgiveness received, but in the power of shielding and cherishing his 
venerable deliverer. The aged man breathed his last in pence under the roof of La- 
znont, and was buried, as tradition reports, with all the honour due to his rank, and 
bis grave is still pointed out in this burying- ground, or very recently was, by the 
aged inhabitants of the district. 



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602 ARGYLESHIHB. 

exposure of the burying-groiind for several years without inclo* 
sure, led to the defacing of any ioscriptioD which might have 
marked these graves. It is most likely that certain of those whose 
designation has been fixed* in history as Tulchan Bishops, and 
others perhaps of an earlier day despoiled of their revenues, may 
have found shelter and protection here, under the sway of the Ar- 
gyle family, and ended their days in personal comfort The re- 
mains of a house are pointed out, to which the name has been i^* 
signed of the bishop's palace. There is, however, nought belong* 
ing to such an establishment pointed out iti history as having ex- 
isted in Dunoon, — and most probably the residence so denomi- 
nated might be a dwelling-house, assigned by the Argyle family, 
after the Reformation, to individuals of the orden Neither is 
there any trace to be discovered, to show that any nunnery ever 
existed in Dunoon, — ^the story of its existence being merely found- 
ed, apparently, on the assumption, that the name Dunoon musi 
signify some connection with a nunnery I The ancient parish 
church, replaced by the present so late as the year 1816, appears 
to have been built in a style superior to most of the parish 
churches of the same period, — a fact easily accounted for by its 
proximity to the castle, and that being possessed for such a period 
of time by a noble family, disposed to liberality toward the ex- 
isting establishment of their day. 

The place of Kilmun is, ecclesiastically, of higher repute than 
Dunoon. Tradition ascribes the origin of a church in that place to 
the circumstance of a ship bearing a precious cargo of consecrat- 
ed earth from the Holy Land, or Jerusalem, having been stranded 
in the Holy Loch, and the cargo having been discharged, that the 
church of Kilmun was erected on the spot where this earth had been 
deposited, or the portion of it saved from the wreck. The ship, 
tradition bears, had been destined for Glasgow, and its cargo in- 
tended for the purpose of erecting upon it some ecclesiastical edi- 
fice of more than ordinary sanctity. Tradition ascribes this event 
to the times of St Kentigern, and points out the Cathedral of 
Glasgow, as the building for consecrating the foundation of which 
this earth from Jerusalem was intended ; and that the catastrophe 
gave its name to the Holy Loch. For the latter of these tradi- 
tional assertions there is some apparent foundation in the Gaelic 
name by which this arm of the sea is designated, — ^* an Loch j^bi- 
to,'' the charmed loch ; and while it certainly does not appear in 



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DUNOON AND RILMUN. 60S 

what the virtue of the charm consisted, there can be little doubt^ 
that thd name must have arisen from some specific event, to which 
the spirit of the times would ascribe some mysterious influence. 
It does not appear that any ecclesiastical relation subsisted at any 
period, so far as elucidated in the history of religious houses, be- 
tween Kilmun and the Archiepiscopal see of Glasgow. But will* 
ing to save the credit of traditional story, it may not be uninter- 
esting to observe, that the chartulary of Glasgow, recently pub- 
lished by the Maitland Club, as the donation of Mr Ewing of Le- 
venside, records the fact of John, bishop of Glasgow, about the 
year 1 122, having gone to the Holy Land ;* but the neit year, by 
order of the Pope, that he returned to his see. His procuring a 
gift of such supposed value, to be carried to Scotland, has nothing 
improbable, at^east, to discountenance the belief, that such an 
event might even have occurred as this precious consignment 
having been subjected to the catastrophe which this tradition re- 
cords. It is certain that the first, or at least a preceding church 
to that of which we shall presently notice the foundation, stood, 
not upon the spot where the more recent erections have stood^ but 
close to the sea-shore, on the site now occupied by the villa and 
grounds of William Graham Esq. at Kilmun. A collegiate 
church for a provost and six prebendaries was founded at Kilmun, 
by Sir Duncan Campbell of Lochawe, who was also afterwards 
the first of that family who assumed the title of Argyle. His 
grant is dated 4th August 1442, and this munificent gift to the 
church, stated to be *' pro salute animae quondam Marjori» con- 
jugis meae, et modernae consortis meae, et quondam Celestini filii 
mei primogeniti." Other grants of land to the church of Kilmun 
by the family of Argyle, are found recorded in the chartulary of 
Paisley, to which abbey Kilmun appears to have been ecclesiasti- 
cally attached or subject. The foundation thus granted to the 
church of Kilmun appears to have raised it to some rank of im- 
portance in the vicinity. The tower of the church, indicating it, by 
the style of its architecture, to have been erected about or subse- 
quently to the period of the grant constituting it a collegiate church, 
still stands almost entire ; the plan, form, and size of the body of 
the church itself have been obliterated by more recent erections ; 
but, so far as can be traced, the church formed a building of pretty 

• «( Sed cum episcopus : eognita infelicis populi ferociUte et abhominabili vitiorum 
multiplicitate : uptote perterritus Jerusalem proficisci disposuisset.'' 



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604 ARGYLE8HIRE* 

extensive diineDsion8,and to correspond with the portion of it extant, 
the tower, the style of its architecture must have been respectable. 
The tower is square, and stands about forty feet in height, and 
contains within a stair of peculiar construction, built on geometri* 
cal principles, of which it is thought there are but very few speci- 
mens to be found in the architecture of the period. It is partly ef- 
faced by the gradual decay of the masonry. The place of Kil- 
mun is also known as the place of sepulture of the Argyle family. 
According to Douglas, in his peerage of Scotland, Sir Duncan 
Campbell, afterwards Lord Campbell, and grandfather of Colin, 
the first Earl of Argyle, is stated as the first of the family in- 
terred at Kilmun. But even from the terms of the grant found- 
ing the collegiate church, there is ground to believe that it had 
been the family's place of burial prior to the date of this grant in 
1442. There is evidence of Sir Gillespick or Archibald Camp- 
bell of Lochow having obtained a grant of the lands of Kilmun, 
prior to 1343; and his son. Sir Colin Campbell of Lochow, ap- 
pears to have received *^ from King Robert XL a charter of se- 
veral* lands in Cowal, which had pertained to John Stewart of 
Auchingown, his Majesty's natural son, dated 20th June 1404. 
He had also from Robert, Duke of Albany, a charter of the lands 
of Strathachy, (evidently Strath-eachaiff, forming the greater part 
of the parish of Kilmun, according to designation in popular local 
usage,) within the barony of Cowal Stewart." While these proofs 
evince the time and manner of the Argyle family obtaining pos- 
sessions in this district, popular tradition ascribes the commence- 
ment of the family's sepulture at Kilmun to a still earlier period, 
while yet the Laments held the territorial ascendency of Cowal 
undisturbed. A rude verse, in Gaelic, uttered on the occasion 
of this right of sepulture being granted by Lament to the family 
pf Lochawe, is still repeated by the Seanachies of the district. 
In this verse, Lament describes himself as '^ the great I^amont of 
all Cowal," and the right is granted ^^ to the knight of Lochawe- 
side," in consideration of present necessity, for the interment of 
the knight's son, who is reported, by the same traditionary evi- 
dence, to have died in the low country ; and his remains having 
been carried by sea to Kilmun, and a continued snow storm hav- 
ing rendered its conveyance to the family burying-ground at home 
impracticable, this grant was sought by the knight of Loch- 
awe, and conceded by " the great Lamont of all Cowal." This 
tradition receives some countenance in the fact of the family of 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 605 

Argyle, after having receifed Dunoon CasUe, and making it, at 
least one, if not the principal residence occupied by them for the 
time, showing preference of Kilmun as their place of family se* 
pulture, and bestowing more liberally on the ecclesiastical foun- 
dation there. The place of interment was within the ancient 
church ; and the access to it continued to be through the body of 
the parish church till the year 1793 or 1794, when the cemetery 
now standing was erected. It is a simple square building, payi- 
lion roofed, without any architectural ornament, and the family of 
Argyle still continue to use it as their place of sepulture. 

The hill of Benmore was long appropriated to the purposes pf 
a deer forest; and traditions are not wanting of the family of 
Argyle having particularly prized it, as affording the exercise of 
that sport, and their having and exercising certain servitudes over 
places at a considerable distance, the holders of which were, by 
their tenure, bound to assist in the battue^ when the members of 
the family visited this forest The remains of mounds erected for 
the purpose of driving the deer into certain passes, are still visible 
on this hill, and it continued to be preserved as a forest till near 
the close of the last century. In this forest a cave is shown where 
some of the charters and papers of the Marquis of Argyle lay con- 
cealed, while he was under the ban of his persecutors of the day ; 
and the cave has since been designated and known by the title of 
the Paper cave. An inhabitant of the parish, within the last 
twenty years, had in his possession some staves of one of the casks 
in which these papers were held in the cave. The introduction of 
sheep- farming into the district soon banished the deer from this 
forest, as it has done from the whole district of Cowal, and the 
hill forms a part of the property of George R, Wilsone, Esq. of 
Benmore. 

The last occurrence connected with political events^which dis- 
turbed the peace of this district, was the invasion of it, as well as 
of those in its vicinity in Argyleshire, by " the Athol men," upon 
the execution of the Earl of Argyle, in 1685. The Marquis of 
Athol, who had obtained the royal authority " to protect* Argyle- 
shire, appears to have entrusted the exercise of his protectorate 
to hirelings or vassals, who distinguished themselves and their 
noble employer by the most lawless and cowardly treatment of 
the inhabitants. The events characterizing this invasion, (for 
by no other name can it be properly designed,) are still borne 
in memory by the descendants of those who suffered at the time. 



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M6 ABQTLESHIRE* 

in their property and effects, if not in their persons. A printed 
record of the losses sustained by the several proprietors of the dis* 
trict, has many interesting notices indicative of the usages and 
habits of the people at that period, and. demonstrative of the 
change that has since taken place. The violences of the Camp* 
bells toward the Laments appear in this visitation of the Athol 
men to have met with retributive visitation. Fixing their head- 
quarters at Inverary, they seem to have taken into their own hands 
the powers of '^ pit and gallows,'' and no inconsiderable number 
of the Clan Campbell perished by iheir hands. While ravaging this 
parish, they were not permitted altogether to go unmolested. A na- 
tive inhabitant, of the name of Archibald Whyte, is recorded in 
story, as the daring and brave head of a kind ofgueritta party, 
who hung upon the rear of the Athol men, whithersoever they 
went ; and he is stated, on more occasions than one, to have di- 
minished the number of the lawless invaders. 

No events of any special public importance appear to have cha- 
racterized the civil history of the parish, from the latter part of the. 
seventeenth century down to the beginning of the present. The 
introduction of the system of sheep-farming, about seventy years 
since, began gradually to work changes on the condition of the 
rural inhabitants, larger sections of the soil coming to be appro- 
priated to that pursuit, and the people to be driven into smaller 
holdings, bordering on the cottar system, to some extent 

The application of steam to the practical purposes of naviga- 
tion. It is sufficiently known, began on the River and Frith of 
Clyde, and no portion of Scotland perhaps, certainly none of the 
Highlands of Scotland, has more witnessed or experienced the 
manifold results traceable to that triuinph of scientific and mechan* 
ical genius and skill. It has tended, within the last twenty-five 
years, to change, it may be said, wholly, the physical aspect of this 
territory ; and in many respects, far from being immaterial, moral 
consequences have also resulted from the same immediate operating 
cause. In the year 1B22, the village of Dunoon presented but 
the appearance usual in Highland clachans: there were not more 
than three or four slated houses, besides the parish church and 
manse. As the power of steam became subservient to the pur- 
poses of navigation, and the first steamers built begun to venture 
beyond Greenock, and to dare the dangers of crossing the frith, — 
esteemed no ordinary measure of boldness at that time,-- indivi- 
duals, and a few families . from Glasgow, began to resort to 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 607 

•Dunoon as a summer residence. The number was but small, in- 
deed, who could find any accommodations to suit -them. In 
the year mentioned, James Ewing Esq., then of Glasgow, and now 
of Levenside, in Dumbartonshire, commenced building the ma- 
rine villa called,, since, the Castle House, on the grounds imme- 
diately adjoining Dunoon Castle. The taste displayed in the erec- 
tion of his villa, and in the laying out of the grounds around it, 
pointed out to others the advantages of the locality, of which several 
individuals o( respectability soon availed themselves ; and the vil- 
lage has since gone on in ere asing. 

About the same period, but a few years earlier, the pur- 
chase of the estate of AuchavuUin, and other neighbouring 
lands now forming the estate of Toward, by the late Kirkman 
Finlay Esq., formed an era in the agricultural history of the pa- 
rish, and in all its rural economy* Not more successful and dis- 
tinguished as a British merchant was Mr Finlay in his commercial 
pursuits, than he became here as an agriculturist^ atid an improver 
of lands presenting no particular attractions nor promise of easy 
conquest, when he became their proprietor. With many local dis- 
advantages and local prejudices to combat, Mr Finlay had been 
but a few years the proprietor of those lands, when, in the several 
departments of inclosing, draining, planting, tillage, and systema- 
tic husbandry, not to speak of ornamental landscape improvements, 
more strictly so termed, his estate became a pattern, the benefits 
of which, it may be affirmed, without prejudice to the claims of 
other proprietors to the like merits, were felt and appreciated, and 
his example followed throughout the whole district. In the de- 
partment of planting, indeed, within the bounds of the united pa- 
rish, a good deal had been previously done on the estate of Glen- 
finart by the late Earl of Dunmore. But success had scarcely yet 
been demonstrated, when Mr Finlay commenced his operations on 
the Toward estate. About the same period, also, the late James 
Hunter Esq. of Hafton became proprietor of that estate in the neigh- 
bourhood of Dunoon, and, in building, planting, and other im- 
provements, set the same beneficial example, which has since been 
still more extensively followed up by his son, James Hunter Esq. 
the present proprietor of the same estate, now considerably enlarged. 

The picturesque village of Kilmun on the Holy Loch was be- 
gun about the year 1829, by David Napier Esq. of Glasgow pur- 
chasing an extensive feu of lands running along the eastern shore 
of that arm of the sea, from the late Qeneral Campbell of Mon- 



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608 AUGyi.ESHIRE. 

zie. This village has also risen rapidly into considerable extent ; 
and though its appearance, and the disposal of the houses of which 
it is now composed; might have been much more advantageously 
arranged had the whole been done under the eye of a proprietor 
owning the whole of the lands adjacent, as well as the space now 
feued, still the village of Kilmun forms a favourite summer resort, 
and is rapidly increasing. While the territorial aspect of the 
united parish has thus undergone, both by the erection of villages 
and by agricultural improvements, a very remarkable change, 
during so brief a period as little more than twenty years, the 
whole must be attributed to the wonderful powers of the steam- 
engine applied to the purposes of navigation. Previously to the 
era of this discovery (not of steam power, but of steam navigation,) 
the access from this parish and from the neighbouring districts to 
the low country and towns on the Clyde was tedious, uncertain, 
and sometimes dangerous.* 

The passage by steam from Dunoon to Glasgow is now made 
on average in three hours. And the same marvellous power of 
steam now applied to inland travelling, the transit from Dunoon to 
Glasgow is accomplished in two hours, and to Edinburgh in four. 

Parochial Registers. — These consist of several manuscript vo- 
lumes and scattered fasciculi of scrolls and portions of minutes and 
registers, irregularly kept, down to a comparatively modem date. 
The session book of the parish of Dunoon commences December 
6, 1692, and, while designated as the session record of the parish 
of Dunoon proper, some of its sedenmts show the heritors of the 
parish of Kilmun to have been also present, indicating that KiU 

* The contrast in facility of intercourse between the two periods may be best il- 
lustrated by an instance or two. The late minister of the parish of Rothsay men. 
tioned to the writer, his having, in the summer season, not longer ago than twenty* 
four years, been three days nearly in making good a passage from Rothsay to Green* 
ock. A gentleman resident in Glasgow has also mentioned, that, about thirty-two 
years ago, desiring to convey his family for summer residence to the village of Goo- 
rock, three miles beyond Greenock, on the Clyde, they set out from Glasgow in tfaa 
morning in one of the passage-boats at that time plying on the river, and denomi- 
nated, not very appropriately, " Flies.** The whole of that day they were occupied 
in making good their way the length of Bowling Bay, not nearly half-way from Glas- 
gow to Greenock, and there came to anchor for the night. Weighing next momiDg 
and proceeding to tea^ the wind being contrary, after spending the whole day in buf- 
feting the ^aves of the Clyde, they were forced to put bark, returning the second 
night to Bowling Bay. llie third day they made the next attempt and sueoeeded 
in making Port-Glasgow, in the afternoon, where he took post-horses, leaving tbejiy 
in disgust ; and having seen his family lioused in Gourock, he returned by land «m 
the fourth day to Glasgow, weary, sick, and exhausted ; the voyage and jouney, be ad- 
ded, costing him L.7, 14s. At present, any modem steamer makes the passage from 
Rothsay to Greenock in two hours ; and the passage is made from Glasgow to Gon- 
rock in a quarter more than two hours, in any weather not absolutely tempestuous ; 
and the expense of either passage Is not more than one thUUitg. 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 609 

muD bad not then any separate ecclesiastical standing. Another 
session record of the united parishes of Dunoon and Kilmun com* 
mences anno Domini 1695. This appears to be regularly kept till 
1699* A hiatus then occurs from that period down to 1753^ from 
which last date these records have been regularly kept. The register 
of births commences with the date of 1754, and appears during the 
earlier years after that date to be but irregularly kept, and is consi^ 
derably mutilated. The register of marriages commences in 1742, 
and appears kept but imperfectly till 1754, and pretty regularly 
from that date till 1800, from' which date both these registers are 
kept with perfect regularity. Interesting local notices occur in 
the earlier minutes of the kirk-session, and of the meetings of that 
body and the heritors jointly. Among other notices, there is one 
of the proposed endowment of a grammar school at DunOon so early 
as the year 1697. The endowment is stated to be made up of a cer<- 
tain stent upon the bishop's rents in several parishes of Argyleshire, 
not confined to the district of CowaL The minute does not bear 
upon what authority this arrangement had been made; and, what 
b of greater moment, it does not appear to have taken e£fect, while 
it demonstrates, at the same time, the necessity felt of having one 
of the schola illtutres established in Dunoon, as the leading place 
of the district of CowaU 

Land'Hwmers.'^The principal land-owners in the united parish, 
and in the order of their respective valued rents, are, Alexander 
S. F\nlay Esq. of Castle Toward ; James Hunter Esq. of Haf- 
ton ; John Campbell Esq. of Dunoon ; Archibald Douglas Esq. 
ofGlenfinart; John MacArthur Moir Esq. of Milton; Alexan- 
der Campbell Esq. of Monzie ; William R. Campbell Esq. of 
Ballochyle; Alexander Lament Esq. of Knockdow; Donald 
Fletcher Esq. of Bernice ; and George R. Wilsone Esq. of Ben- 
more. The valued rent of the united parish is L.420, Is. lOd..; 
and the real rent at present is above L.9000, exclusive of feu- 
duties. 

Modem Buildinffs.-^Ot these, all classes united, there is no 
inconsiderable number. In the class of mansion-houses may be 
ranked first Castle Toward, built by the late Kirkman Finlay 
Esq. It is considered by competent judges that there are few 
specimens of the modern Gothic more happily conceived, and 
more adapted to the circumstances of situation. If, when criti- 
cally examined, it be judged deficient in massive grandeur, its 
lighter and more ornate features harmonize with the surrounding 

AROYLB. Q q 



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610 ARGYLESHIRE. 

scenery. The design is by the late David Hamilton Esq. ; and 
there was none of that talented architect's plans which he himself 
considered more satisfactory. Hafton House, o£ the mixed mo- 
dern Gothic, is equal in size to Castle Toward ; and its situation 
on the western shore of the Holy Loch, adds a pleasing feature to 
the coast view ; while, from its low and sheltered situation, and its 
extensive park attached, it commands an extensive inland view of 
the Frith of Clyde. Glenfinart House, built by the present pro- 
prietor, Archibald Douglas Esq., in the mixed English manor- 
house style, is beautifully situated in the glen by which it is 
named, and occupies the site of the former mansion-house for 
many years occupied by the late Earl of Dunmore. The 
mansion-house of Benmore, the residence of George R« Wil- 
sone Esq., situated at the foot of the lofty hill whose naaie 
this property bears, presents an interesting feature in the al« 
most alpine scene around it, and its well arranged and finished 
grounds surrounding it, both please and surprise as the grounds 
are entered, presenting so perfect a contrast to the ruder features 
of the scenery which the eye had been resting upon, while ascend* 
ing the valley of the Eachaig, on the verge of which it is situated. 
The villas around and in the neighbourhood of Dunoon present 
a very pleasing and cheerful appearance, and among them it might 
be deemed almost invidious to male any distinctions. The Castle 
House, already mentioned, now the property and summer residence 
of Robert Eglinton Esq., is, in point of situation and interest, 
.closely allied to the old Castle of Dunoon, and graces the village; 
while the house itself, as if sprung from the ruins ef the scarce 
discernible walls of the ancient fortalice, presents an emblem of the 
change that has passed over our fiither-land. 

The parish church of Dunoon is a modem erection, from a 
design by Mr Gillespie Graham : it was erected in 1816. Its 
order is Gothic, and there are perhaps few modern parish 
churches occupying so commanding a position, or more success* 
fully designed. It has been recently enlarged, by a consider- 
able addition to it in length, under the superintendence of the late 
David Hamilton Esq., in 1834. In 1839, farther additions ireie 
made. Subscriptions having been entered into for procuriog a 
proper clock and bell, suited to the altered state of the village 
and neighbourhood, the tower was raised eight feet, which brought 
it properly to correspond with the increased length of the build- 
ing* hy the recent addition 'made to it. The clock was presented 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 611 

by William Campbell Esq. of TuUicbeweB, at that time the 
proprietor of the Castle House, and is recorded in the minutes of 
the meetings of heritors, as having been presented by Mr Camp- 
Mi, '^ to the parish and village for the public use of the inhabi* 
tanU.** 

The present church of Kilmun was erected in 1841 , from a design 
by Thomas Burns Esq. architect, Glasgow. It is in all respects 
«a excellent building, and its appearance not unpleasiog nor un- 
suitable to the surrounding scenery. More ambitious in the e1e« 
vation of its tower than its aged neighboar, the ancient tower of 
the collegiate church of Kilmun, which still stands in tbeimmedi* 
ate vicinity, it may, to the taste of some, present a contcast more 
abrupt than satbfying. The church, however, corresponds with 
the modern village in its vicinity ; and only betokens the change 
which the old tower itself silently but impressively proclaims, as 
having passed on the affairs and prospects of men, since the more 
ancient days of its own erection. 

Two chapels have been erected in the united parish within the 
last few years, one near the point of Toward, and the other at Ar« 
dentinny in Glenfinart, partly by subscriptions, and partly by the 
funds of the Church Extension Scheme. They are both substan- 
tially and not inelegantly built and finished, and while supplying 
needful accommodation for dirine worship to those two portions 
of the parish population, situated remote as they are from the 
parish churches, they present a feature in the parish scenery, not 
detracting, at least, from the interest which its other features 
awaken. 

A dissenting chapel in connection with the Associate Synod was 
erected in Dunoon in 1829, and is a building of highly respecta* 
ble appearance and style. 

Among modem buildings in the united parish may be classed 
a Lazaretto, connected with the quarantine station in the Holy 
Loch, erected by Government, on the Dunoon side of the Holy 
Loch, about forty years ago* The buildings consist of an ex- 
tensive and complete range of stores, suited to receive infected 
goods of every description. The buildings are surrounded by a 
high wall ; and close to them is erected a range of houses for 
the use of the superintendant of the quarantine, and the men em- 
ployed in its service. The general opinion prevails of this qua- 
rantine station not having served its purpose ; or rather, it has 
been proven that it had no adequate purpose to serve ; and it is 



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618 ARGYLBSHIRE. 

believed that Government intend to discontinue the establishmeat 
wholly. 

. The only manufactory in the parish, if it may be properly so 
designated, is a gunpowder mill, or works, erected a few years since 
in the parish of Kilmun, at Glenlean, by Robert Sheriff Esq. 
These works are carried on with spirit, on a limited scale, and the 
quality of gunpoivder manufactured is said to be equal to any pro* 
duced in any other similar works in Scotland or England. The 
trade is said to be profitable, and employs about thirty persons or 
upwards. Their charcoal is made from alder, and the erection of 
these w6rks has enhanced the value in the district of a species of 
timber otherwise mostly of no value at all, nor the tree one of the 
ornamental kind. The quantity of this timber required, in propor- 
tion to the quantity of gunpowder produced, is very large. Other 
two works of the same kind have since been erected in the county ; 
and it is worthy of notice, that alder wood from Norway is now 
offered to be supplied by contract to one of these works, at a lower 
price than it can be purchased in the immediate vicinity. 

Some years ago, there were erected within the bounds of the 
parish not fewer than three distilleries for the production of whisky. 
They have been all abandoned as unprofitable speculations; and 
were the abandonment of places for the sale of whisky to follow, 
the moral benefit would be the more complete. 

IIL — Population. 
- Perhaps in no parish in Scotland is the population more vari- 
able, comparing one year with another. By this is meant the 
more permanent population, exclusively of the numerous families 
who are visitors during the summer and autumn months. While 
building and other improvements proceed actively, numerous £i- 
milies of tradesmen from the towns on the Clyde, and labourers, 
reside for a year or two, and again remove. Families ako some- 
times reside during the. winter months in villas or houses, either 
their own property, or occupied for the time. The residence of 
such is made of course to suit convenience and taste ; and trans- 
fers in such kinds of house property are of frequent occurrence; 
and altogether, there may be $aid to be an irregular and varying 
^ndition of the population as to actual amount. In the following 
enumeration, the families are not included who reside in houses 
of their own within the parish during the summer and autumn 
months only, although legally they might be considered parish* 
ioners. 



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DUNOON AND KJLMUN. 61 3 

Population of the united pariab, - • 2853 

Of thete, there rende in the vUlage of Dunoon and immediate viciuity, 1296 

Kilmun and immediate vicinity, 215 

The popuktioD of the parish of Dunoon proper, • 2136 

Kilmun proper, - - 717 

Population redding in the country, parish of Dunoon proper, 940 

KilmuD proper, - 502 

Average yearly number of births for the last seven yean, . 58 

marriages for the last seven years, • 201^ 

Average number of persons above 80, - - « 27 

In the aboYe statements, it may be remarked that the village 
of Dunoon is reckoned as embracing the whole population from 
Hunter's Quay at the one extremity, to the place of Buthkolidar 
at the other ; and the village of Kilmun is reckoned as embracing 
the whole population from the point of Strone to the bridge across 
the Eachaig. During the summer and autumn roonthsi the po- 
pulation of both these villages is considerably more than doubled. 
It is also proper to record that there are 

In the parish of Dunoon proper, speaking the Gaelic language, 850 
Kilmun proper, - - 526 

It is also necessary to remark, with respect to the average num- 
ber of births, that Dissenters are not in the habit generally of re- 
cording their baptisms in the parochial register. There is.no 
register of burials kept. 

The number of families of independent fortune, permanently 
residing in the united parish, does not exceed six or seven, though 
several such families having villas in the vicinity of Dunoon, and 
in the villages of Dunoon and Kilmun, make these places gene- 
rally their summer residence. 

The number of proprietors at present is 13 of L.50 and up- 
wards of income, derived from lands in the united parish. 

Number of houses in the village of Dunoon, reckoned as above, and counted as 

separate buildings, some inhabited by more than one family, is - 342 

Number of houses in the village of Kilmun, - - 56 

The rental of houses in the village of Dunoon, deducting feu- 
duty, has been estimated at L.3525. The price of feus varies 
from L.4 to L.30 per imperial acre, according to situation and 
circumstances. The average rate of feuing at Dunoon may be 
stated at L.12 per acre, annual feu-duty, and from L.10 to L.12 , 
at Kilmun. There are ten houses in the village of Dunoon in 
progress of erection this year, and three at Kilmun. Building 
has not increased so rapidly for the last four or five years in these 
villages as previously. The depression experienced during the 
last two years in manufacture and commerce in Glasgow and the 
other towns on the Clyde has evidently produced this effect, and 
both these villages being now, from facility of intercourse, and the 



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614 ARGTLESHIRE. 

nature of circumstances causing their erection and increase^ it may 
be said, suburbs of Glasgow and tbe other neighbouring towns, 
causes affecting the prosperity of those places will naturally alfect 
the villages on the coast. 

The number of families in the united parish b 520, perma- 
nently residing. It has been found that the average number in a 
family is 5^ members. 

The number of insane, fatuous, blind, deaf and dumb^ amounts 
at present to 6. 

The people enjoy, on the whole, in a reasonable degree, the 
ordinary comforts of life ; and tHeir standard of comfort^ as to 
dwellings and diet, is much above that to which many other por- 
tions of the population of the Highlands have, by hard necessity, 
(alien. Tbe peasantry are here spoken of. And, so fisur as en- 
couraged or permitted to live in the habits proper to a well-condi- 
tioned rural peasantry, or encouraged to improve that condition^ 
contentment with their situation and circumstances is a virtue pe- 
culiarly exhibited in their character. 

The denooralizing business of smuggling has entirely ceased in 
the parish, and, it is believed, entirely throughout the district of 
Cowal. There are instances of poaching in game, though not 
numerous. There is no public pawnbroking. 

IV. — Industry. 
AgrieuUure.^^By estimate carefully made, though without ac- 
tual survey, the number of imperial acres in the united parish, 
either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, amounts to 12743. Of 
these, 1356 are in the parish of Dunoon proper, and 1387 in the - 
parish of Kilmun. The number of acres which have never been 
cultivated is what remains of the estimated superficial contents of 
the united parish, supposed to be about 180 square miles, deduct- 
ing the number of imperial acres stated above, and, perhaps, one- 
third part of what has been devoted to planting within recent years. 
In judging of the extent to which tillage might be still carried in 
such soil, climate, and circumstances as the euvbce of this parish 
presents, much skill and practical judgment are demanded in form- 
ing any opinion to which weight might be justly attached. But 
grounding our opinion on the testimony of experienced persons 
acquainted with the localities, it is thought, that, with a profitable 
application of capital, nearly as many acres more as are now in til- 
lage might be added to that number, which might at least yield 
more profitable returns than now, by occasional tillage, and by 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 615 

being devoted more usually to the purposes of pasture. There is 
no portion of the parish in a state of undivided common, the boun- 
daries of each property being ascertained. The number of acres 
under timber has been already stated under the general head of na- 
tural history. The extent of copsewood in the parish amounts to 
as many acres as there are of planting. Both planting and copse 
are carefully tended with respect to yearly thinning, periodical 
felling, and pruning. The oak is unquestionably the prevailing 
native tree, with other kinds already specified. Larch and Scotch 
fir prevail in most of the plantations. 

Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per imperial 
acre may be stated at L.1, 4s. in the parish of Kilmun proper, and 
at L.1, 16s. in the parish of Dunoon. The difiference in these 
two average rates arises firom capital having been more liberally 
applied to the improvement of land in the latter than in the for- 
mer parish, of late years. This difference, it is not improbable, 
may soon cease, improvements of this kind being in progress now 
in the parish of Kilmun, which promise to be successful. 

The average rate of grazing may be stated at L.3 per ox or 
cow grazed for the year 9 and of sheep, at from 2s. 6d. to ds. per 
head. 

Rate of Waffes. — The rates of labour may be stated as under : 
farm-servants, with board and lodging, L.7; female house-servants, 
do. L. 3, 10s. to L. 4 per half-year; farm day-labourers, per day, 
without board or lodging. Is. 8d. ; country artisans, 2s. to 2s. 6d, ; 
journeymen tradesmen, 2s. 6d. to 8s. 

Live-stock. — Of sheep, except where Leicesters, South Downs, 
and other kinds are reared in limited numbers on gentlemen's 
grounds and enclosures, the black-faced is that universally reared as 
farming stock. With respect to black-cattle, as has been stated al- 
ready under the head Zoology, the Ayrshire breed has come to 
prevail, while it is questioned by farmers of experience whether 
the West Highland breed might not make better returns. 

Husbandiy.'^The proportion of the parochial territory, strictly 
speaking, devoted to agricultural purposes, has been stated already, 
the whole of the territory besides, except what is occupied by en- 
closures and planting, being devoted to the rearing of sheep stock, 
or rather, indeed, chiefly to that purpose, and partially to the rear- 
ing of cattle. The agricultural system pursued on grain farms 
has come to be regulated, as it always ought to be, by terms of 
lease, in each particular case. The system generally pursued on 



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616 ARGYLE8HIRB. 

these farms is that denominated a seren years' shift, varying, how- 
ever, in particular instances. Ley ground, on bemg broken up, i* 
sown with oats; the year following, with green crop; it is then sown 
down with grass seeds, together with barley or oats; one or two 
crops of hay in successive years follow, according to soil and cir- 
cumstances ; and two, three^ or four years of pasturage, when the 
ley is agun broken up to undergo the same rotation of cropping. 
The principal crops raised are oats, potatoes, turnips, and hay^ 
Barley is not now so much cultivated as some years ago» it being 
found that oats yield a better return. Wheat was tried, and cul- 
tivated to a considerable extent* on the better farms in the parish 
some years since ; but its cultivation has been abandoned, the soil 
being found not of sufficient strength to withstand this species of 
crop ; and while the farms on which it was raised, yielded beautiful 
crops in favourable seasons, the climate was found, from its humi« 
dity, unfavourable to the securing of it in perfect condition. Oo 
the estates of the resident proprietors, the state of farm husbandry 
may be mentioned now as approaching that of the best cultivated 
districts of the lowlands of Scotland. On the estates of Castle 
Toward, Hafton, and Glenfinart, especially, this statement may be 
safely ventured. On the first, indeed, the agricultural improvements 
of which it is susceptible may be said to have been brought to their 
full bearing several years ago. On the two latter, improvements, 
liberally conducted, are every year making progress successfully, 
in the reclaiming of waste land and draining, as well as in the im- 
portant matters of farm-buildings and enclosures. Furrow and 
tilc'draining are systematically pursued. The late Mr Finlay of 
Castle Toward first introduced the practice of furrow-draining, and 
is said to have been among its first promoters in Scotland. There 
were strong prejudices against it in the minds of practical agricul- 
turists, but its manifest benefits soon dispelled those prejudices, 
and either that or tile-draining may now be said to be universally 
adopted on the lands of all proprietors in the district who deem 
agricultural improvements an object deserving of their attention. 
Indeed, this system of draining, with that of regular enclosures, 
are the improvements which have the first place in changing the 
appearance and in advancing the value of any lands susceptible of 
being improved at all ; and, in this parish, they have of late years 
been greatly advanced* A striking and not pleasing contrast is 
now exhibited between the lands of heritors permanently residing 
upon them, and those of heritors who entrust the management of 



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DUNOON AND klLMUN. 6l7 

their lands to law agents rejoicing in the name of Factor. Farm- 
buildings present the same contrast* The duration of leases 
varies; but, on improving leases, is generally understood to be 
nineteen years ; and, with the resident heritors, they are considered 
to be on terms, generally^ favourable to the occupier. The greatest 
obstacle to improvement is with proprietors themselves, who dele* 
gate their duties to, and throw their responsibilities upon others. 
• Quarrie8.-^There are quarries suflSciently fit for purposes of 
ruble work building in the neighbourhood of Dunoon and Kilmun^ 
those in the former vicinity being owned by Mr M^ Arthur Moir of 
Milton, and Mr Hunter of Haftoi), both of whom are liberal in 
granting the use of them. Those in the vicinity of Kilmun are owned 
by Mr Campbell of Monzie. There are both slate and freestone 
quarries, but they have not been much wrought of late, or rather 
have been abandoned, it being found that those building mate- 
rials can be procured elsewhere of better quality and at no higher 
expense. There are no mines of any kind in the parish. 

Fisheries. — There are no fisheries, except one salmon fishing 
on the Eachaig at Kilmun, and that carried on along the coast, as 
already described, under the head of Ichthyology. A few of the 
inhabitants pursue the herring fishing on Loch Fine during the 
sumpaer and autumn months. There are eight boats usually en- 
gaged in this occupation belonging to the united parish, each em* 
ploying during the season four men. Its profits are precarious, 
and its effects, morally, not beneficial, unless when those engaged 
in it have Christian principles to restrain them from the dissipation 
and excesses too lamentably common among those following that 
pursuiL 

Itaw Produce. — It is considered unnecessary to present in any 
tabular view the average gross amount of produce raised in 
the parish, nor is it easily ascertained, so as to secure accuracy, 
without which, any such statement would be destitute of value. 
To ascertain it accurately involves a system of personal question- 
ing, not pleasing to eithe^ party. The quantity of land under 
cultivation has been stated, and, it is hoped, with a pretty close ap- 
proximation to fact ; and the value of all kinds of farm and dairy 
produce, as already stated, command fully or nearly the value of 
the most public Scottish markets. The average sheep stock reared 
in the united parish has been estimated, by competent judges, at 
20,000 ; black cattle at 1 130 ; horses employed in agriculture and 
other uses, 200« Sheep for the butcher market have of late been 



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618 AROYLB8HIUE. 

frequently shipped at DuDoon for Liverpool, where they arrive id 
fifteen or eighteen hours. 

There are no maoufactureB of any kind conducted in the pa* 
rish. 

^av^oft'cn.— Neither Dunoon nor Kilmun has hitherto been 
known as a shipping port. As an instance of parochial enterpnae^ 
and the first of its kind locally on record^ it is not unworthy of 
notioe, that this year a schooner of upwards of 80 tons burthen 
was built, rigged, and launched at Dunoon^ by Messrs Dugald» 
Malcolm, and Daniel M^Larty of this place, and is now employed 
in foreign trade, ranking as a firstndass vessel at Lloyd's, appro- 
priately named the Spokesman, the English signification of her 
builders' surname. IJoder this head too, though not strictly be- 
longing to it, it may be noticed, that to obviate the inconvenience 
of landing from steamers in open boats, a private joint^stock Com* 
pany was entered into in the year 1885, for the object of erect- 
ing a pier or jetty, at which steamers might touch at all states 
of the tide. The object has thoroughly succeeded. The jetty 
e&tends 180 yards from the shore into about 4^ £ithoms water, 
and has seven feet water at its extremity at the lowest tide. A 
pontage of one penny is levied on every passenger landing or 
embarking, and proportional rates upon goods, furniture, && 
Though requiring pretty extensive repairs annually, it is under- 
stood to yield a good return for the capital invested. It is an im- 
mense accommodation and benefit to the village and parish. A 
more substantial quay, of solid masonry, has been erected by Mr 
Napier at Kilmun, rendering the landing there easy and comfort- 
able at every state of the tide. 

Asiociatums. — There is an Association for tlie encouragement of 
cottage gardening, established for the last five or six years. It 
is countenanced and encouraged by the landed gentlemen of 
the neighbourhood,— annual exhibitions of flowers and veget- 
ables are held ; and the same Association also contemplates the 
improvement of dairy produce and system of management. It has 
had already very beneficial effects, in promoting the neat appearance 
of cottages in the village and neighbourhood. A Farmers* Society 
has been also established for many years past, in the district of the 
parish of Dunoon commonly termed Nether Cowal, and embracing 
a portion of the neighbouring parish of Inverchaolain. Its object 
is the relief of members fallen into indigent circumstances ; and 
with limited funds, it has been, on many occasions, found benefit 

d 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 619 

oial. A Pisharaiati's Society also existed in Dunoon for many years 
past, but has recently been dissolved) there being but few of the 
inhabitants, scapcely indeed any, following that occupation excht- 
sively. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

There is no market^town, properly so called ; and the two vil- 
lages supplying their place to every practical purpose, have been 
already described. 

With respect to meatis of communication, the parish enjoys 
them abundantly. There are three post-offices in the united 
parish, — Dunoon, Kilmun, and Ardentinny. At Dunoon there 
are, in the winter season, two arrivals and despatches of mail 
daily, and in summer three a-day. The other two post-offices 
have one daily receipt and despatch. Properly speaking, there 
are no turnpike roads, there being no turnpikes or tolls within the 
county of Argyle hitherto. The length of roads in the parish is 
reckoned at forty- nine miles. A road now runs along its whole coast 
from one extremity to the other; the portion of this road extend- 
ing from near Strone point, to the boundary on that side of the 
Glenfinart estate, having been executed last year by private sub* 
scription, and affording much benefit to the parish at large^ espe- 
cially to its visitors in the summer season, to whom this road 
opens up a most interesting and extensive drive. Another road 
from the southern extremity of Loch Eck to the place of Whistle* 
field on that lake, was also executed a few years ago by private 
subscription, and opens up a direct Ibe of communication with 
Strachur, Inveraray, and the western parts of Argyleshire. On 
the road from Kilmun to Loch Eck, was run the first steam car- 
riage on a common road, it is believed, in Scotland. It was an 
enterprise of Mr Napier; and though no catastrophe, happily, 
marked its operation, the enterprise was abandoned, as was a 
steamer on Loch Eck, to the great deliverance Irom scandal of 
that peaceful and interesting Highland scene. Substantial wooden 
bridges have been recently erected on the Eachaig, the Little 
Eachaig, and the Massan, and afford much-needed accommoda- 
tion, making the lines of communication throughout the parish 
complete. The roads are generally kept in good order and re- 
pair. The exactions of statute-labour money under the present 
Act of Parliament are accounted burdensome, and pressing 
too unequally both on residents for a time merely, and on the 
poorer classes. The provisions of an Act about to be passed 



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620 AUGYLESHIRE. 

during the present session of Parliament} are expected to bear 
more lightly. and equally on the inhabitants. 

The Holy Loch is the only harbour or good anchorage along 
the coast of the parish. While the internal communication 
in the parish is complete by good roads and bridges, the com- 
munication by sea, and by steam navigation with Glasgow, 
Greenock, and the other towns on the Clyde, is, it may CTen 
be said, superabundant, both irom Dunoon and Kilmun, but 
especially the former. The passage to Greenock from Kil- 
mun or Dunoon is scarcely an hour in ordinary weather, and 
three hours to Glasgow. There is daily communication during 
the winter season between Glasgow and Kilmun, onCe a-day, and 
in summer at least twice. From Dunoon there are, in the winter 
season, generally four opportunities of conveyance by steam to 
and from Greenock and Glasgow, as well as to and from Roth- 
say, and once daily to and from the western parts of Argyleshire. 
During the summer season, the opportunities of conveyance by 
steam in most of these directions amount at least to sixteen daily. 

Ecclesiastical State. — Dunoon and Kilmun being a united 
parish, it may be proper to remark, that there is no distinct or 
separate management or adiAinistration of the affairs of each, 
either quoad civilia or quoad sacra.* The parish churches both 

* There u a singular uncertainty as to the date of the annexation of Kilmun to 
Dunoon. A graye-stone in the churchyard of Kilmun bears the name of ''John 
Campbell, minister of Kilmun, who departed this life 20th December 1600," and 
yet, in the presbytery records there are indications, as well as in minutes of session, 
that the annexation must have taken place many years previous to that period. In 
1659 it appears, from the presbytery records^ that the presbytery had to perambulate 
the bounds of each parish, so as to ascertain them, with a view to a proposal then 
made by the Marquis of Argyll, « to separatenhe said parishes in two distinct cures, 
and settling a stipend for them.^ , This proposal seems not to have been carried 
Into effect, for on the 19th March 1660, **the presbytery appoint ane letter to be 
written to the parishioners of Dunoune and Kilmoune, to press them to be diligent 
and active in dealing with my Lord Marquis, and in backing the presbytery's lettre 
sent to my lord anent the settlement of the stipends of the said parishes.** On 18th 
April of the same year, the presbytery refuse to translate the minister of RilSnan to 
Dunoon, '* because" (for Dunoon) ** there is no localitie of ane thousand merks 
•mortified out of the bishop's rent, neither gleib designed, neither is tber ane manae 
builded.** In June, the year following, 1661, the presbytery record thus^*^ Jamea 
Frissell having exercised his gifu amongst us this year bypast, and the parishioners 
of Dunoone and Kilmune having given him ane call to be their minister, the prcs- 
bytery did admit the said Mr James minister at the said kirk, according to the sud 
call.** In September of the same year it is suted, '* that Mr James Praser (formerly 
.Prissel), present minister of DuMOone and Kiimund, wants the Irish, and, with eon. 
sent of the heritors and elders, gets ane assistant to help him at Kilmund two Sab- 
baths, and each third Sabbath at Dunoone, in Irish.'* <* The presbvtery declaring 
this to be in the interim, till it be kpown in due time how these kirks may be eon- 
stantlie served for the future, whether by divisoune in two distinct charges, or 
oyrwise." The *< interim" has, unfortunately, proved a long one. The glebe was 
designed at Dunoon, with reference to the two parisbesi and the manse built. 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 621 

of DiinooD and Kilmun are pretty centrically.situated, as to ter- 
ritorial bounds, respectively ; but the distance of each from the 
further extremity of each parish, is too great to admit of the 
attendance from those parochial districts being regular or general ; 
the distance of the church of Dunoon from the further boundary 
of the parish to the westwards being upwards of ten miles ; and 
that of Kilmun fully eight miles from the boundary of tliat parish 
to the northward. In each of these districts, the nearest of them 
situated beyond four miles from the parish church, is a population 
of upwards considerably of three hundred and two hundred re- 
spectively. The present church of Dunoon was built, as already 
stated, in 1816, and is a very handsome edifice in the modern 
Gothic style, with a tower, and is strikingly situated on the 
highest ground in the village, the castle-hill excepted. It is at 
present in a vei^ thorough state of repair, comfortable, and hand- 
somely finished within. There are no important bene&ctions on 
record ; but by the judicious management of small benefactions,- 
and from other sources, an accumulation of poor^s funds took place, 
during the incumbency of the last minister of the parish, Dr John 
Campbell, amounting to upwards of L.700. At the date of its 
erection, the church was considered to afford ample accommodation 
to the parishioners, being seated for 500. The rapid increase of the 
village of Dunoon, and the accession to the population, especially 
in the summer months, rendered it insufficient to accommodate 
the resident population ; and to obviate this inconvenience, while 
the state of the law prevented additional accommodation being 
demanded or granted in the circumstances, it was judged, as the 
most expedient and safe plan, that the accumulated poor's fund 
should be invested in building an addition to the church, and that 
seat-rents should be levied on those additional sittings, to replace 
the capital thus invested, and its interest while so invested. It 
was further considered, that the additional amount of weekly col^ 
lections arising from increased accommodation, would in the 
meanwhile more materially benefit the parochial poor, than any 
interest which could be expected from any safe investment of this 
aocumulated fund. The accumulated fund, amounting at that 
time (1834), to L.607, 5s. 6d., was accordingly lent by the heri- 
tors and kirk-session to two of the heritors on their personal secu* 
rity^-i-the late Kirkman Finlay Esq., of Castle Toward, and 
James Hunter Esq., of Hafton, — they volunfarily and gene- 
rously agreeing to take the risk of repayment; und that the 



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622 AROYLBSHIRB. 

mon^ thus inyested for the public aeoommodation and religious 
benefit of the oommuDity, as well as for the adTanoement of the 
interests of the parochial poor^ should be forthcoming en any 
emergency which might occur in course of Providence to render 
its immediate application needful for the relief of existing pauper* 
isoL The changes which had been occurring in the parochial 
economy for some years prior to this period, had increased the 
pauperism of the parish, with certain of those changes haTiog 
their tendency to raise the demands of pauperism. The addition 
to the church was accordingly built, needed church accommoda* 
tion supplied to the extent of 278 sittings; and hitherto the 
scheme has fully justified the expectations of those interested in 
its success. From fifty to sixty pounds, the proceeds of letting 
those seats, go annually to replace the capital, besides paying the 
interest of the inrestment ; and the collections for behotrf of 
the poor, meanwhile, have so increased, as beyond doubt to 
exceed any amount of interest which could be safely realized firom 
the fund by any other mode of investment. As a landward parish, 
the whole sittings allocated to the heritors are firee, and occupied 
by the landward population. The sudden rise of the village has 
created, however, a class of parishioners who have no claim on 
heritors for such accommodation; and the heritors whose alio* 
cations of sittings more than supply the occupiers of their own 
lands, are in the habit of letting the surplus sittings at a rea« 
eonable rate, the proceeds being generally applied by them to re* 
ligious and charitable uses. Further accommodation, to the 
amount of sixty sittings, has been more recently still provided, by 
an alteration in one of the galleries, so that the accommodation 
provided is now about 838 sittings. 

The .present church of Kilmun was built in 184 L It pro* 
vides ample accommodation, being seated for 450^ and capable 
of admitting galleries should they yet be required. The manse 
and offices of the united parish, situated near the village of 
Dunoon, were erected in 1808. > They underwent a thorough 
repair, and an addition was made to the manse, in 1838. The 
glebe extends to about twelve imperial acres, with an addi* 
lional small pendicle situated in the village, where the manee^ 
offices, and garden formerly stood before the erection of the 
present. The glebe has been valued at L.18 annual rentak 
The pendicle of glebe land in the village, with the old manse^ and 
a servitude on the Castle Hill, let at L.2, 2s., make an addition 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 623 

to the Stipend of about L.12 or L.14 anntially. The stipend of 
the united parish consists of 258 bolls^ 8 firlots oat-mea!, Linlith- 
gow measure, and 2 bolls, 2 firlots bear, at the county fiars prices, 
and L-Sl, 4s. 7^d« vicarage dues, all payable in money. The 
teinds are exhausted. The Duke of Argyle is patron.* 

Two chapels of ease, or preaching stations, have been recently 
erected in the united parish, as already stated. Probationers of 
the church, acting as parochial missionaries, officiate at those sta- 
tions ; on alternate Sabbaths at Toward chapel, and each Sabbath 
throughout the year at the Ardentinny cbapeL The missionaries 
are paid by an annual collection, made on that behalf, at each of 
the stations, and in each of the parish churches. The annual ex- 
pense for thus supplying religious ordinances to a portion of the 
population, otherwise almost in point. of iact excluded from that 
privilege, and from many others of the same kind, is L.90, with 
certain allowances for travelling expenses. The Sabbath collec- 
tions at each of those chapels are appropriated to the use of the 
parochial poor, and have formed a considerable source of that re- 
venue since the commencement of those missions, averaging from 
L.25 to L.dl annually, from both together, while it has not been 
found, that the erection of those much«>needed places of worship 
has diminished, by any means, the ordinary Sabbath collections at 
the parish churches. Jt is but just to state, that the heritors more 
immediately interested in those portions of the parochial territory 
have manifested liberality in supporting these preaching stations. 

In addition to the two missionaries thus parochially employed^ 
the minister of the parish officiating alternate Sabbaths at Kilmun 
and Dunoon during the summer and autumn half-year, and during 
the winter and spring half-year, two Sabbaths at Dunoon, and 
every third at Kilmun, — another missionary or assistant, hidierto 
unordained, is employed, 4o alternate with the parish minister at 
Dunoon and Kilmun, and to take the more active weekly superin« 
tendence of the population of Kilmun parish. He resides at Kil- 
mun. His salary is guaranteed by the parish minister to the 
amount of L.70 per annum. This salary is made up by voluntary 
oontributioos from the parishioners, and many of our sununer visi- 
tors contributing liberally to this object, as to all other charitable 

* By act of the Scottish Parluunent, passed 8th day of Noyember 1641, a roorti- 
fieMion of 1200 merks by the King to the minister of Dunoon is ratified ; but undcfr 
the burden of 200 merks Scots money, ** to ane achoolemaster wbo shall remane at 
the said kirke of Donoone.** The mortification is ** out of the reddiest of the teindis, 
tttnd duties^ and rpt. rentii of the biahopriok of Argyle/* 



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^24 ARGTLBSHIRE. 

and religious objects conDected with the parish. The assistant's 
salary hitherto has never been under L.70, and has been rather in- 
creasing annually than diminishing, — amounting the last two years 
to L.90, L.100, and upwards. 

There is one Dissenting chapel in the united parish, situated in 
Dunoon, in connection with the Associate Synod. This is the 
only Dissenting place of worship. Within the last year, a manse 
has been built for the minister of this congregation. 

The whole of the femilies in the parish, with the exception of 
those adhering to the Dissenting congregation, are in the habit of 
attending the Established Church ; and excepting also a few in- 
dividuals and families in the two Tillages, either fugitives from dis- 
cipline, or not professing to belong to any religious denomination. 
The average attendance of persons of all ages attending the Es- 
tablished Church varies, as in the statement following, from the 
circumstance of the villages being watering-places of considerable 
resort during the summer and autumn months : average attend- 
ance at Dunoon during the winter and spring, 450 ; at Kilmun, 
220 ; at Dunoon during summer and autumn, 860 ; at Kilmun, 
SSO; at Toward chapel, alternate Sabbaths, 180; at Ardentinny 
^hapel throughout the year, 80. 

There are four or five families. Episcopalians, permanently re- 
sident at present in the parish. Respectable persons of that com- 
munion generally attend the services of the Established Church, 
whether permanently resident or resorting to it as visitors in sum- 
mer and autumn, and probably some also the Dissenting chapeL 
Frequently fugitives from discipline, here as elsewhere, profess 
to belong to that communion. There are at present, so far 
as known, only three Roman Catholics resident in the united 
parish. The attendance upon Divine service at the different 
places ^of worship connected with the Establishment through- 
out the parish may be called good ; but is less so in the village of 
Dunoon than it might be. It is believed that the attendance at 
the Dissenting chapel is equally good in proportion to the num- 
ber adhering to that communion. 

The average number of communicants in the united parish is 
€27. 

There are no societies for religious purposes established in the 
parish : the annual contributions to the schemest)f the Church are 
made parochially. The united parish has, in this manner, con- 
tributed to the several schemes of the Church, during the last four 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 625 

years,— 1839, L.205, 5s. 6d.; 1840, L.126, 14s. 6d. ; 1841, 
L.112, 19s. 2d.; and 1842, L.70, 8s. Od. 

EdttcatioTU'^TheTe are, in the united parish, three parochial 
schools, — one at Dunoon, one at Toward, and one at Kilmun. 
There are also two schools on the scheme of the General Assem* 
bly's Education Committee, — one at Dalilongard, in the parish of 
Dunoon, the other at Ardentinny, in the parish of Kilmuq. 
There is a school taught also in connection with the Dissenting 
congregation in Dunoon. Within the last few years also, a fe- 
male school of industry has been set on foot in Dunoon, with the 
object of instructing the rising female generation in the necessary 
and useful departments of knowledge. It owes its commencement 
and support to an Association of ladies resident in the parish, and 
usually resorting to Dunoon in the summer season. It has been 
attended with very gratifying success, is well conducted by a com- 
mittee of ladies annually chosen, and is very efficiently taught 
This sen^inHry promises to be a very great benefit and blessing to 
the female youth of the village and its neighbourhood. 

Of the three parochial schools, I^atin is taught only in that at 
Dunoon, and the higher branches of education at none of them. 
These are, however, taught at the General Assembly schools men- 
tioned. The parochial teachers have the full legal accommoda- 
tions. The school-house and teacher's accommodations at Toward 
have been liberally granted and erected at the sole e&pense of the 
late Kirkman Finlay Esq. ; and, at Ardentinny, a house for the 
teacher has been provided by Mr Douglas, and adjoining to it, 
a neat and comfortable school-house has been erected at the sole 
expense of Mrs Douglas of Glenfinart. The accommodations 
are fully equal to the average of parochial schools, and^ a mere 
nominal rent is charged. The rates of school fees are as follow : . 
in the parochial and Assembly schools per quarter, — beginners, 
2s. ; reading and writing, 8s. ; arithmetic, 4s. 6d. ; Latin, 5s« { 
book-keeping, 10s.; Greek, French, geography, mathematics, 
and navigation, (where taught,) 10s. 

The salaries of the several teachers are as follow : Dunoon, 
L.30 ; Toward, L.22 ; Kilmun, L.25, and L.2, ^s. allowance in 
lieu of garden i Assembly school at Dalilongard, L.25 ; Assembly 
school at Ardentinny, L.25 ; salary of teacher of Female School 
of Industry, Dunoon, L.dO, with house and garden ; salary of 
teacher of school connected with Dissenting chapel, not knbwn* 
The amount of school fees received by each, it would be difficult 
to state with accuracy; but, generally speaking, such fees are 

ARGYLE. Rr Digitized by Google 



620 ARGYLESHIRE. 

well paid, and thej afford, it must be acknowledged^ but very in- 
adequate compensation for the amount and the importance of the 
labour bestowed. 

It may be stated that there are scarcely any of the young within 
the parish) excepting in cases of culpable neglect on the part of 
parents, and these, happily, are but few, who are not able to read 
and write, between the ages of six and fifteen, or who are not un- 
der instruction* The people are certainly becoming more aliTe 
to the benefits of education. With the schools that have been men- 
tioned, as now instituted and maintained in the united parish, 
there cannot be said to be any parts of the parish, containing a 
population adequate to justify the establishment of additional 
schools, so distant from school as necessarily to prevent attend- 
ance. In the more upland portions of the parish, indeed, indivi- 
dual families are so situated, as to exclude their children from at- 
tendance on school, and the parents, in such cases, generally ma- 
nifest a laudable desire to supply this, by employing young men 
to instruct their children. An aid school, during the winter 
months, for the benefit of the younger children, might be advan- 
tageou3ly placed in one or two situations. 

The number of schools in the united parish, as has been now 
stated, is seven. The average attendance on the whole of them, 
by comparison of lists furnished at the annual examinations for 
the last four years, may be stated at S90 or 300. It is to be regret- 
ted, that, taking recent improvements as the standard in the quality 
of the instruction communicated, it is not such in the parochial 
schools generally as is to be desired. The teachers of these show, 
most of them, diligence and faithfulness in the exercise of their im- 
port^t trust, according to their ability ; but there is assuredly need 
that the standard should be raised. 

The beneficial effects of educational facilities are certainly be- 
gun to be seen and felt, and, it .is to be hoped, will increase. 
Sabbath schools are taught in connection with the several schools 
mentioned. 

Literature. — There is a parochial library instituted within the 
last two years, its property vested in the majority of the annual 
subscribers. The rates of contribution are, Is, of entry^mooey, 
and Id. per month. It already consists of about 800 volumes, 
and promises to be beneficial. Visitors to the place during the 
summer sea^ton are admitted on the same terms as permanently 
residing parishioners to the use of this library. There is also a 
library for the use of the Sabbath schools, and small libraries are 

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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 627 

supplied by the General Assembly's Education Committee for 
the benefit of the youth attending them. 

Savings? Bank. — One of these most beneficial institutions, being 
a branch of the Glasgow National Security Savings' Bank, was 
established in Dunoon in October 1839. Its success has fully 
justified the anticipations of its promoters, and it promises to be 
of essential benefit to the labouring classes. The amount depo- 
sited the first year was L.248, 9s. Id. ; second year, L.250 ; 
third year, L.177, lis.; and the fourth year, L.581, 9s. It is 
superintended by a committee of management, and certain of the 
gentlemen interested in its success, guarantee the safety of the 
deposits, in their transmission to and from the head institution in 
Glasgow. The whole sum deposited till December 1843, is 
L.1257, 19s. Id. Of this sum there has been drawn L.489, lis. 
dd., leaving a balance in favour of depositors of L,768» 7s. 5d* 
Another branch of a Savings' bank has been commenced at Ar- 
dentinny. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid for the last seven years, is 68^, not includ- 
ing the children in families receiving this aid. Of this number, 
some are not permanently placed on the poor's roll, but receive 
occasional aid. The altered circumstances of the parish, chang- 
ing as it has done, within the last twenty years, from being compa* 
ratively a retired and rural one, to a state bordering so much on 
the circumstances and habits of town life, has, no doubt, with be- 
nefits, produced the evil of an increased parochial pauperism ; and 
has had its manifest tendency, as might be anticipated, to increase 
the demands of pauperism ; the feelings and views of individuals 
being influenced by the local current of the times; and many in- 
dividuals formerly resident in towns, obtaining settlement in the 
parish, and not influenced by the feelings peculiar to a rural and 
Highland peasantry. The highest rate per week given to single 
paupers is 2s. 6d., with frequently house rent besides, and occa- 
sionally some supply of clothing. The highest rate to widows 
with children, varying of course according to the number and age 
of the children, is 4s. per week, and generally house rent, with as- 
sistance for clothing. 

The annual amount of contributions for their relief from church 
collections during the last seVen years, (1842 inclusive,) is as 
follows: 1836, L. 116, 19s. 3|d.; 1837, L. 129, 19s.; 1838, 
L.llO, 17s. lOfd, ; 1839, L.l 18, 9s. 6|d. ; 1840, L.109, 3s. 6d.; 
1841, L. 124, 19s. 6id.; 1842, L. 128, 8s. 6id. The other 



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628 ARQYLESHIRB. 

sources whence contributions are derived, are the interest on ac- 
cumulated fund, invested (as noticed) in erecting the addition to 
the Dunoon church, mortcloth dues, and dues on procUnna- 
tions of bans for marriage, with occasional donations from heritors 
and benevolent individuals ; and during the seven years mentioDed 
above, there have been distributed from these sources cumula- 
tively,— in 1836, L.46, 88. G^d.; 1837, L.aS, 12s. 7id.; 1838, 
L.88, 7s. 7id.; 1839, L.34, 18s. 7id.; 1840, L.31, 14s. 3id.; 

1841, L.28, 14s. 7id.; 18^^^ L.30, 8s. l^d. The highest 
amount of annual church-door collections at Dunoon has been, in 

1842, L.101, 86. 9^d., — and at Kilmun church, the highest has 
been, in 1841, L. 31, Is. O^d. 

The sums here stated have been found barely adequate to sup- 
ply the wants of the existing pauperism ; and during the period 
mentioned, it has been found necessary, on two occasions, to draw 
to a small amount upon the accumulated fund. The amount 
of pauperism varies from year to year ; but its tendency has un- 
doubtedly been, during the period now under review, to increase. 
There is no other mode used in procuring funds for the poor besides 
that of church-door collections and the other means mentioned. 
The disposition to refrain from seeking parochial relief is very 
swiftly passing away ; instances of it are met with, and in the rural 
parts of the parish they are more frequent ; but among those ac- 
customed to compulsory modes of relief in towns, no such feeling 
can be expected to exist : and their example here must i»e ex- 
pected to have its effect. The facility of obtaining parochial set- 
tlement is felt to be a special grievance, not beneficial to the 
poor at large, and highly injurious, even oppressive, to individual 
parishes ; and in a country like Scotland, where local changes are 
continually progressive, an extension of the period necessary to 
make good parochial settlement, from three to seven years at least, 
would assuredly be an improvement in this difficult branch of na- 
tional legislation, — and would unquestionably be conducive to the 
interests of morality among the poor themselves. 

Prisons and Police. — There is no jail nor place of confinement 
in Dunoon, or the united parish. It has been in contemplation 
for some time past to erect a lock-up house at Dunoon. The ru- 
ral police established in the county has been found beneficial here, 
in suppressing vagrancy, and in checking petty delinquencies. 
There are no fairs or markets of any general resort held within 
the parish. 

JnnSf 8fc — Under this name may be classed, two in Dunoon, one 



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DUNOON AND KILMUN. 629 

at KilmuD, and one at Ardentinny* But it is not the most pleas- 
ing task to record that there are not fewer than eighteen places 
besides, within the united parish, licensed for the sale of spirituous 
liquors. In the year 1841, the amount of spirits imported into 
the united parish for consumpt in those places, amounted to 
2958 gallons. It is obvious that so many places of resort, for the 
consuming of ardent spirits, is altogether out of proportion to the 
population of the parish. 

FueL — The fuel now almost universally used is coal, procured 
generally at Glasgow, and sometimes from mines on the Ayrshire 
coast. The general cost is from lis. to 14s. per 24 cwt. Peats 
are still used by the inhabitants in the more upland parts of the 
parish ; but even in such situations coals are preferred. 

Presbytery. — Dunoon being the seat of the Presbytery bearing 
that name, it may be proper to remark, that the presbytery em- 
braces the six parishes in the district of Cowal, viz. Dunoon and 
Kilmun, Inverchaolain, Kilmodan or Glendaruel, Kilfinan, Stra- 
chur and Stralachlan, and Lochgoilhead and Kilmorich or Cairn- 
dow, with the two parishes in the island of Bute, Rothsay and 
Kingarth. To these are added the quoad sacra parishes of 
New Parish, Rothsay, and North Bute. 

The presbytery records consist of eleven volumes, including the 
separate register. The first volume begins 1st 1639, 

and ends on first Wednesday of May, 1686. This volume be- 
coming decayed, and the writing in danger of being obliterated, 
has been transcribed at the expense of the members, and contains 
'many interesting notices of the manners and events of the period. 
The second volume begins 26th November 1689, and ends 24th 
March 1707. The third volume begins 20th May 1707, and ends 
12th October 1716. The fourth volume has been recently re- 
covered by the presbytery, and consists of minutes in scroll, com- 
mencing 4th December 1716, and ends 5th October 1731. The 
fifth volume begins Ist February 1737, and ends 30th March 1761 ; 
down from which period the records are regular and complete. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The variations betwixt the present state of the parish and that 
which existed at the time of the last Statistical Account, are cer- 
tainly striking and great. The rise, progress, and advancement 
of the villages of Dunoon and Kilmun, are in themselves changes 
of local importance, and their progress has been unusually rapid. 
The one fact of steam communication with the Lowlands and towns 



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630 



ARGYLBSHIRE. 



of Scotland, having brought this portion of the Highland national 
territory to be but virtually a rural adjunct of those towns, espe- 
cially of Glasgow and the towns on the Clyde, is a change singu- 
lar enough in itself; and the conjoint influence of the two facts 
DOW mentioned must necessarily have had an effect upon the 
manners and habits of the native and resident population. Land- 
ed property also has undergone several transfers since the period 
of the last Statistical Account. It is believed that there are only 
two estates in the parish similarly situated as at that period, all 
the others having undergone transfer, diminution, or change. 
Landed property has also undergone very great and material 
improvements within the same period, in the greater portion of 
it embraced by the united parish. This also has tended so far 
to influence the habits and manners of the population. The 
rural portion of the population has decreased in number, while 
what now, in every practical sense, may be called the town popu- 
lation, has greatly increased. The general effect, morally and rs- 
ligiously considered, it is not perhaps easy to estimate. It must 
be so far matter of opinion ; nor, in these respects, would it be- 
come the writer to institute any comparison between the two pe- 
riods, not having been acquainted with the former of the two, and 
having witnessed only a few years of the change which may still 
be said to be in progress. The progress is one which has its ten- 
dency to assimilate the population more to the standard of their 
lowland neighbourhoods in habits and manners, and also to the 
town population of those districts of Scotland. The villages in the 
parish may be said to have locally the same influence as towns 
have upon the population of the territory around. The change 
produced and in progress still, must fall under the general problem 
which perhaps has too largely been solved, that such circum- 
stances are more unfavourable than otherwise to an advance and 
improvement in morality, and the desirable ascendency of vital and 
practical religion among the bulk of a population. The state of 
this parish, too, falls in with that generally of our country at large 
in a period of progressive physical improvement, or at least change, 
— calling for and demanding additional and enlarged appliances of 
those means which, by the Divine blessing, conduce to the nur- 
ture and establishment of sound moral and religious principles, 
which alone can conduce to the true happiness of any coomiunity 
or country. It may be borne as a testimony to the population in 
general, that they avail themselves of such means, in the measure 



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NOUTH KNAPDALE. 631 

in which they are placed within their reach ; that there is a gene* 
ral desire of improvement, and, it is to be hoped, a degree of it 
manifested* 



PARISH OF NORTH KNAPDALE. 

PRESBYTERY OF INVERARV, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. D. MACLACHLAN, iMINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name^ §*c. — The whole district of Knapdale formed originally 
one parish, called Cil mhic O cfutrmaiff, the burying-ground of the 
son of CVCarmaig. This O'Carmaig is said to have been an 
Irish saint, who founded the first church in Knapdale. In 1734, 
the district of Knapdale was divided into two parishes, called 
North and South Knapdale. 

Knapdale is compounded of two Gaelic words, Cnapi a hill or 
an eminence, and DaUl, a dale or field. The name is very de- 
scriptive of the local aspect of the parish, which is beautifully di- 
versified by plains and valleys separated by hills, and watered 
by a multitude of small rivulets. 

Extent and Boundaries. — It is about 13^ miles in length from 
north-east to south-west, and about 6 miles in breadth, including 
a narrow arm of the sea, which divides the parish into two nearly 
equal parts. From the extreme irregularity of its surface, it is 
difficult to specify its precise extent ; but we are not perhaps far 
from the truth in estimating it at 76 square miles. It is bounded 
on the south and south-east by the parish of South Knapdale ; on 
the east and north-east, by the Crinan Canal and Loch Crinan ; 
on the west and south-west, by the Sound of Jura, which separates 
that island from the mainland. 

Topographical Appearances. — It is of an oblong form. Its ap- 
pearance is diversified by an agreeable variety of hill and dale, 
and thriving plantations, by numerous lakes, and by Lochswen, 
an inlet from the Atlantic. This arm of the sea is about ten miles 
in length, bearing north-east from its entrance. Its breadth at 
the entrance is about a mile, but towards its northern extremity it 
widens to nearly three miles, and then divides into three parallel 



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^®* ARGYLE8H1RE. 

branches, which continue their course in a north-easterly direction 
two and a-half miles farther. The average depth of the Frith is 
twelve fathoms. The extent of coast washed by the sea, includ- 
ing all the indentations of Lochswen, cannot be less than fifty miles. 
The coast from the point of Ardnoe, near the harbour of Crinan, 
to the promontory of Keills, is bold and rocky, in many places ris- 
ing precipitously to the height of 300 feet ; on the west side of 
lochswen it consists principally of low rocky ledges, and on the 
east side it subsides into a sandy beach. From Castle Swen to Id- 
verlussay the ground rises with a gentle slope from the water, for 
the distance of nearly half a mile. It is then succeeded by gentle 
acclivities, forming the slopes of hills of moderate height, which 
are themselves the flanks of a chain of hills running north-east and 
south-west The highest of these hills is called Cruachlusach. 
It is 2004 feet above the level of the sea. Next to Cruaehlu* 
sach, the hills of greatest note in the parish are those of Dunar- 
dary, Duntaynish, Ervary, and Arichonan ; the last of these is 
about 1200 feet above the level of the sea. From the summit of 
Cruachlusach, which commands a most extensive prospect, are 
seen the Cowal and Arran hills, the peninsula of Kintyre, and the 
north of Ireland ,- towards the west, the islands of Isla, Jura, Scarba, 
and Mull ; towards the north, Bencruachan, and a large number of 
rugged and dusky mountains, — altogether presenting a scene unsur- 
passed perhaps in any other part of the Highlands. But to be seen 
to advantage, it must be viewed from the rising ground near the 
southern extremity of Lochanfad, or from the hill of Ervary. From 
either of these points, you behold a succession of delightful pro- 
spects breakingat iutervgils on the eye, over sea, and lakes, and dales, 
and hills. The rocky and towering mountains of Jura in the dis- 
tance,— the brightgreen islands of Ellanmore and Dannaattheex- 
tremity of the parish, — woods scattered here and there decorating 
the sides of grassy hills and the margin of the shore, and the waters 
of Lochswen, now hid, now revealed to the eye, — exhibit a scene 
seldom surpassed in variety, novelty, and grandeur. 

In Dr MacCulIoch's Letters to Sir Walter Scott the following 
description is given of the scenery of Lochswen : " Lochswen it- 
self is a very deep, though narrow inlet, utterly different in cha- 
racter from any thing that I have seen in Scotland, and as pictu- 
resque as it is singular. The shores are very deeply and remark- 
ably indented in many parts, while, on both sides, they are covered 
with fine wood ,- being thus productive of much beauty as well as 



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NORTH KNAPDALE. ^83 

unexpected variety. But, towards the upper extremity, the bills 
become abrupt and rocky, while they are, at the same time, richly 
wooded e?en to the water's edge, and high up along their acclivi- 
ties. Id many parts, also, they descend in steep rocky precipices, 
divided by ravines and enlivened by cascacfes, the trees springing 
out of the rocks in a manner as wild and romantic as it is oma- 
mentaU The land here is also dispersed in narrow and projecting 
promontories, separated by deep and equally narrow bays, inter- 
mingled in a manner that no words can describe, and productive 
of the most extraordinary scenery. Loch Katrine may convey a 
faint idea of this spot ; nor is it less romantic than many parts of 
that beautifnl lake." 

Winds — Climate. — The previuling winds are south-west and 
west; and the climate, though humid, is mild and salubrious. 
The people now enjoy much better health than formerly, and ge- 
nerally attain a greater age. Since 1840, there have died three 
individuals, whose united ages amounted to 285 years ; and about 
ten years ago, a female died at the very advanced age of 107 years. 

iSoiL — There is a great variety of soil in the parish. In se» 
veral places close to the shore it is sandy, in others it is of a gra- 
velly loam, in others mossy. At the south-western extremity of 
the parish it is rich and friable, and very productive. 

Springs — Lakes. — The parish possesses many excellent springs 
of water, some of them strongly impregnated with lime. The 
Dunrostan, Auchnamara, and Kilmichael waters are the streams 
of most importance in the parish. The last of these is the most 
considerable. It rises in Kilmichael Moor, about a quarter of a 
mile to the north-east of Cruachlusach. It. runs principally in a 
north-westerly direction, and pursues a very winding course. 
About 300 yards before it falls into the sea, it forms a beautiful 
cascade at the bridge of Kilmichael Inverlussay. The parish 
contains twenty-one water lakes, all of them abounding in fine 
trout. The largest of these lakes is about a mile and a quarter 
in length, and upwards of a quarter of a mile in breadth. 

Zoology and Botany. — No rare animals occur in the parish. 
Roes are found in considerable numbers in the plantations on the 
Poltalloch and Ross properties. Hares are numerous. We have, 
besides, foxes, badgers, otters, martens, wild cats, weasels, moles^ 
and rats. 

Birds. — The thrush, blackbird, bulUfinch, robin red-breast, 
and other warblers exist in great abundance. The game con- 



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634 AUQYLBSHIRIS. 

sists of red-grouse, partridge, snipe, black-cock, wood-cock, wild 
duck, and the water-ben. Of migratory birds, the wild-goose, 
the swallow, the land-rail, and the cuckoo pay us ao annual 
visit. During the winter months, immense quantities of wid- 
geons frequent Lochswen, and in severe winters, swans also visit 
the parish. 

Fishes. — The Sound of Jura abounds with fish of various kinds, 
such as seathe or cole fish, cod, haddock, mackerel, gurnard, gray 
mullet, lythe or pollack, skate, and flounder. The shore, from 
Dunie to Castle Swen, abounds likewise with crabs and lobsters. 
Oysters of large size and excellent quality are found in abundance 
on the eastern and western shores of Lochswen, and there is an 
extensive bed of mussels on the shore of Inverlussay. 

Botany. — The botany of this parish has little to distinguish it 
from that of the neighbouring parishes. Among its rarer plants 
the following occur : 

PiDguieula vulgoris Convolvulus sepiuin Agrimonia Eupaioria 

Hypericum elodes Aster Tripolium Lycopus europipus 

Jasione montana Crithmum xnaritimum Mymphaea alba 

Cocyledon Umbilicus Drotera angliea Nuphar minima 

Lobelia Dortmanna Alcbemllla alpina Epipactis ensifblia 

The following plants exist in great abundance : 

Rubus frutiooBus Juniperus communis Nasturtium arapbiinum 

Fragraria elatior LoniceraTaprirolium Ranunculus Flammula 

Glecboma hederacea Prunus spinosa Agarieus campettris 

Tussilago Farfara Vaccinium Myrtillus 

IL — Civil History. 

Parochial Registers. — The earliest date of the parochial register 
of births is 1775; the earliest date of the register of proclama^ 
tion of marriages is 1784; but both registers are exceedingly de- 
fective. From 1816 they have been regularly kept down to the 
present time. 

Eminent Men. — Of persons connected with the parish who at«- 
taioed eminence, is the late Major- General Sir Archibald Camp- 
bell, K.B. Sir Archibald, aftef studying at the universities of 
Glasgow and Edinburgh, where he greatly distinguished himself 
by his proficiency in the various branches of erudition to which he 
directed his attention, was sent to the Royal Academy at Wool- 
wich, where bis abilities became so conspicuous that he was soon 
appointed an engineer; and in 1757 he served upon three expedi- 
tions on thecoast of France; in all of which services he proved him- 
self an able and gallant officer. The India Company having received 
favourable accounts of Sir Archibald's merits as an engineer, ap- 

6 



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NORTH KNAPDALE. 635 

pointed him their chief engineer to Bengal, where he acquired 
fresh reputation by the very masterly designs he gaTe in for the 
works of Fort- William, and for reducing the expense of erecting 
that immense fortress to a sum half a million of money less than 
to what had been originally intended. He was subsequently 
employed in the American war; and his judicious and gallant con- 
duct in that expedition was duly appreciated by his sovereign, who 
appointed him Governor of Jamaica. And while he held the go- 
vemorsbip of that island, he stood conspicuous for his enlarged 
and statesmanlike views, the strength and decision of his mind, 
and courage in the most critical and arduous circumstances. On 
his return to Enghind, the India C!ompany appointed him their 
Governor for Madras, and the King honoured him with a red 
riband. He died in 1791, regretted and admired for his eminent 
civil and military services to his country. He was possessed of 
distinguished endowments of mind, inflexible integrity, with every 
social and amiable virtue. 

Antiquities. — At Keills, near the south-western extremity of 
the parish, stands the ruin of the chapel of St C^R'maig. The 
walls are 40 feet in length by 20 feet in breadth, and 12 feet in 
height Close to the chapel stands a cross of remote antiquity : 
it is 9 feet high, 1 foot broad, and 6 inches thick. On Drimna- 
creige, near the church of Inverlut^sa;, are seen the ruins of an- 
other religious house; and at Kilmahunaig, about a furlong north- 
west from the banks of the Crinan canal, there was a richly-en- 
dowed chapel, of which no vestiges now remain. Near to the 
site of this chapel, which is indicated by the burying-ground with 
which it was surrounded, there is a conical eminence 120 yards in 
circumference at the base, and about ^ feet in height. This 
mound is called Dun Domhnul (Dundonald,) on which, according 
to tradition, the Lord of the Isles used to hold courts of justice, 
and inflict severe and summary punishment on those whom he ad- 
judged guilty. A culprit, who was arraigned and condemned to 
death at this dread tribunal, contrived to efiect his escape while 
the officers of court were making preparations to put the sentence 
into execution. The Lord of the Isles, who was greatly exaspe- 
rated at the escape of the criminal, ordered one of his vassals, who 
was in attendance, and who was remarkable for strength, prowess, 
and swiftness of foot, to pursue the culprit, and bring him back, 
either dead or alive. He was hotly pursued, and soon overtaken, 
and, after a short though desperate struggle, was carried b»ek to 



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I 
636 ARGYLESHIRK. 

tbe place of execution, where he suffered a cruel and ignominious 
death. The Lord of the Isles, to mark his approbation of the 
promptitude and bravery which his vassal displayed in capturing 
and carrying back the fugitive from punishment, gave him, as tra* 
diUon asserts, a charter of the lands of Kilmabunaig in the follow- 
ing words, which indicate that he was no admirer of prolixity io 
conveyancing : — 

** Miae Dombnul nan Dombnul 
A'm shuidh air Diin Dombnul 
*Toirt coir do Mbac Aoidb air Kilmabunaig 
0*n duigb gus am miireaob 
*S gu \k LbnUb mar sin." 

r. e, — I, Donald, chieftain of the Clan-donald, sitting on Dundo- 
nald, give a right to Mackay to Kilmabunaig, from this day till 
to-morrow, and so on for ever. 

Forts, — On a small green hill near the mansion-house of Ard- 
nackaig) there are some remains of a fort or watch-tower. It is 
about fifty yards in circumference, and the remains of the surround- 
ing wall are twelve feet in thickness. About two miles to the 
south-east, on the hill of Barmore, there is another watch-tower 
of the same form and dimensions. And on a hill near the church 
of Tayvallich, there are the remains of a fortification called Dim 
a bheallicliy or the fort of the pass. This fort was probably intend- 
ed to secure the pass leading from the bay of Carsaig to tbe bay 
of Tayvallich. There are several others in this parish, all in ele- 
vated and conspicuous situations. But by far the most interesting 
monument of antiquity in the parish is Castle Swen, which stands 
on a rock close to the sea, and commands a very extensive view of 
the surrounding country. The date of its erection is not known ; 
but it is evidently tbe work of different ages. The walls display 
great strength of masonry. They are about 7 feet in thickness, 
35 feet in height, and, including Macmillan's tower, 105 feet in 
length. Probably Macmillan's tower was built much later, as its 
walls are considerably thinner. In Macmillan's chamber there are 
traces of windows, and two vents. Immemorial tradition bears 
that the castle was built by Suine Mac righ Locklan^ — Swein or 
Sweno, Prince of Denmark, — towards the beginning of the eleventh 
century ; and if this be correct, it must have been the residence 
of successive races of warrior chiefs, during the eventful struggles 
between the Scandinavians and the Scots, and the not less bloody 
conflicts between the Scottish Kings and the Lords of the Isles. 
Thi» fortress commanded the entrance to Lochswen, and was re- 



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NORTH KNAPDALE. 637 

garded as the key of the districts of Knapdale and Glassary, and 
as such ii was deemed a position of the greatest importance. ** In 
the end of the thirteenth century, Knapdale appears in the posses* 
sion of a certain Swenus de Ergadia, known in tradition as Swen 
Euadhj or Swen the red, Thane of Glassary and Knapdale, and 
from him it is said the castle took its name ; and there are strong 
grounds for thinking that he was ancestor of the Macneills. John 
his son took an active part with Baliol, and was forfeited by Bruce." 
Swenus de Ergadia appears to have been a descendant of the house 
of Lorn, which was intimately connected by marriage with the 
Comyn and Baliol party, which not only strenuously opposed the 
claims of Robert L to the Scottish throne, but, on more than one 
occasion, was the means of reducing him to great straits. When 
the Bruce obtained possession of the crown, he found himself threat- 
ened by the strength of the descendants of Somerled, as by that 
of an enemy who had gradually grown up into the possession of a 
power which frequently defied royal authority, and which had 
more than once shaken the stability of the Crown under Somer- 
led. He therefore determined to proceed in person into Argyle- 
shire for the purpose of crushing the power of the Lord of Lorn, 
which he soon effected. After the defeat of the Lord of Lorn at 
Lochawe, King Robert besieged Alexander of the Isles in Cas- 
tle Swen, his usual residence. Alexander, for some days, de- 
fended himself with the most determined bravery, but was obliged 
to surrender himself to the King, who forthwith imprisoned him 
in Dundonald Castle, where he died. *^ Bruce granted Knap* 
dale to John de Menteth, recorder to the Earl of Menteth, from 
whom it descended to his eldest son. Sir John Menteth, Lord of 
Arran and Knapdale. Sir John disponed the greater part of 
South Knapdale to the Earl of Argyle in 1853, and, on his death 
in 1360, the rest of Knapdale fell to the Crown, by whom it was 
granted, in 1372, to John Lord of the Isles, and remained in that 
family until the forfeiture of the last Lord of the Isles in 1476, 
when it again came to the Crown, and was granted in 1480, with 
the keeping of Castle Swen, to the Earl of Argyle. Although 
Swenus de Ergadia and his descendants were deprived of Knap- 
dale, they seem to have retained actual though not feudal posses- 
sion ; for, in 1472, we find Hector Mactorquil Macneill in pos- 
session of the greater part of North Knapdale, and heritable 
keeper of Castle Swen. This passed, with an heiress, to Mac- 



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638 AEIOYLESHIRE. 

millan of Knap."* The family of Argyle retained possession of 
Castle Swen from 1480 to 1644^ when it was besieged and burnt 
by Sir Alexander Macdonald, better known in the Highlands by 
the name of AUutair MacChoUa, who ravaged the whole district 
of Knapdale with fire and sword* 

III. — Population. 



Amount of population in 1755, 


laee 




1009 


By the census of 1801, 


2401 


1811, 


2184 


1821, 


2654 


1831, - . - 


2563 


1841, - - - 


2170 



From this table it appears that between 1755 and 1792, the 
population bad decreased 360. This decrease seems to have 
been occasioned by the uniting of several small farms into one. 
In the last Statistical Account, it is stated that ** there are single 
men who occupy some eight and some ten tenements, upon each 
of which there is only one herd." The large increase of the po« 
pulation, in 1801, is easily accounted for. The Crinan Canal, 
which bounds the north-eastern extremity of the parish, was be* 
gun in 1793^ and completed in 1801. Strangers were attracted 
from distant parts of the country in quest of employment, and 
many of these settled in the parish, and were included in the cen- 
sus of 1801. One of the principal causes of the gradual decrease 
from 1821 to 1841, has been emigration. A large number of 
families emigrated to Upper Canada, while many others have 
settled in Glasgow, Greenock, and Paisley. 

The number of persons residing in Tillages is : — 

Males. Females. ToUl. 

In Bellanoch Tillage, . . 50 62 112 

In TayTalUch and Kintallin, . . 93 97 190 

Total in villages, 902 

Residing in the country, . 925 943 1868 

The yearly average of births for the last seven years is 51^ 

marriages, . 15^ 

The average number of permns under 15 years of age is 804 

between 15 and 30, 644 

SO and 50, 403 

50 and 70, 245 

upwards of 70, . 74 

Toul population, 2170 

The number of unmarried men above 50 years of age is • 23 

females above 45 years of age is .21 

widows, . • . ^® 

Tliere arc no insane, fatuous, blind, deaf, or dumb persons in the parish. 

» MS. in possession of Neill Malcolm, Esq. of Poltalloch. 

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L.281 


3 11 


183 


3 


4 


12 


2 


5 


7 


3 


2 


i, 5 


3 


4 


d 





3 


L.441 


IT 


5 



NOUTII KNAPDAl.E. 639 

Proprietors^ <S-c. — The proprietors of the parish, with their va- 
lued rents, are the following : — 

NeiU Maloolm, Esq. of Poltallooh, 

James A. Campbell, Esq. of InTerneill and Rom, 

Colonel J. D. B. Elpbinstone of Carsaig, 

James lUmken, Esq. of Ardnackaig, 

The Honourable Mrs Moreton and Miss M'Oonald, 

Miss M'Kay of Blarintibert, 



Language, — The language of the common people is Gaelic, 
but almost all the young, and most of the old inhabitants, under- 
stand English* The Gaelic is evidently losing ground. 

Character and Habits of the People. — The people for the most 
part are decent, orderly, and industrious in their habits; the 
greater part of them apply themselves to husbandry, or to a sea- 
faring life. Their ordinary food consists chiefly of potatoes and 
fish, oatmeal and niilk. Poaching in game or salmon is very 
rare, and the degrading and demoralizing practice of smuggling 
is totally unknown among them. 

IV. INDUSTRY. 

Agriculture. — The number of standard imperial acres in the 
parish, which are either cultivated or are occasionally in tillage, 
is about 3400. The. number of acres which have never been 
cultivated, and which are in pasture, is 22,126. The number of 
acres under natural or copse wood is 1925, and there are about 
256 acres under planted timber. The common indigenous trees 
are, oak, ash, mountain-ash, willow, birch, alder, hazel, and holly. 
The trees usually planted are, oak, ash, spruce, larch, Scotch 
fir, silver fir, elm, and beech. The plantations are skilfully ma- 
naged, and in a very thriving condition. 

EentofLandy 8cc. — The average rent of arable land is about 
Ids. per imperial acre. The average rent of grazing a cow or 
full-grown ox is L.2 for the year, and of a sheep, 2s. 6d. 

Wages. — Labourers engaged by the day receive in summer Is. 
4d. to Is. 8d., and in winter, from Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. daily, the la- 
bourers furnishing their own victuals. Farm-servants are hired at 
from L.4, 10s. to L.6 in the half-year, with bed and board, and 
females from L.2, 5s. to L.3, 10s. The common wages for ma- 
sons, carpenters, and slaters are from ds, to 3s. 6d. per day, with- 
out victuals. 

Agriculture^ <S*c. — In a parish having a surface so very varied, 
and principally pasture, less attention is bestowed on agriculture 



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640 ARGYLLSHIRE. 

than on the management of live-stock. Although the low pas^ 
ture is much encumbered with brushwood, yet it and the bill grac- 
ing are sound and healthy ; but both would be much improved 
by surface drains. The sheep reared are all of the black- 
faced kind. The cattle are of the pure West Highland breed, 
and, in point of size and symmetry, are considered equal 
to the best that are exhibited at the local markets. Many of 
the farms are let to three or four tenants, and as the land is cul- 
tivated according to what is called the runrig system, it is scarcely 
possible to obtain unity of purpose, or exertion to prosecute those 
measures by which improvements are effected. There are, how- 
ever, many instances, where draining, liming, and most approved 
measures of improvement are prosecuted, and a regular rotation 
of cropping observed, by which grain and green crops of good 
quality are raised. The several possessions are generally sur* 
rounded by stone dikes ; but, although a few of the farms, which 
are under regular management, have their arable ground pro* 
perly subdivided with stone fences, yet, in very many cases, these 
subdivisions are temporary erections to preserve the crops for a 
single season from trespass. 

Raw Produce, — The average gross amount of raw produce 
raised in the parish is estimated as follows : 

6,000 bolls oats and bear, at 168. per boil, . L.4d00 O 

4,500 tons potatoes, Bt L. I per ton, 
90,000 stones hay, at 7d. per stone, 
Grazing for 940 cows, at L.2 each, 

DoL 1220 head of young stock, at L.I, ds. each> 
Pasture for 9600 sheep, at 2$. 6d. each, . 
Wool, 

Annual thinning and periodical felling of woods, plantations, and copse, 200 
Fisheries, 
Dairy produce, 
Miscellaneous, 



4500 O 

875 O 

1880 

1525 

450 

210 

200 

lOO 

900 Q 

150 

Total yearly value of raw produce raised, . • L.1 4,990 

Rent of Land, — 

The annual value of the real property of this parish, in the year 1815, as asaessed for 

the property tax, was ... . L 4797 

The annual rental at present is 5446 

The number of tenanu qualified to vote at the election of a Member of Parliament 

for the county is 20. 

'Navigation, — There are five decked vessels, averaging about 
thirty tons' burden. They are chiefly employed in trading to 
Greenock, Liverpool, and the coast of Ireland. 
V. — Parochial Economy. 

Market'Toum. — There is no market-town in this parish. The 
nearest to it is Lochgilphead, which is at the distance of eight and 



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NORTH KNAPDALE. 641 

eleven miles respectively from the churches of Kilmichael Inver- 
lussay and Tayvallich. 

Means of Communication. — There is a sub-post-office to Loch- 
gilphead, in the village of Bellanoch, from which letters are de- 
spatched and received three times a week. The road between 
Lochgilphead and Keills, where there is a ferry to the Island of 
Jura, passes for fifteen miles through the parish, sending off a 
branch at the farm of Barinluasgan to the church of Kilmichael 
Inverlussay. There is a new line of road in progress from Inver- 
lussay to Castle Swen, which, when completed, will be of essential 
benefit to the whole of the east side of the parish, and to the dis« 
trict of Knap in the parish of South Knapdale. The communi- 
cation with this parish is easy by means of steam-boats, which, in 
summer, ply daily between Glasgow and Inverness, passing 
through the Crinan Canal, which bounds the parish at its north- 
eastern extremity for four miles. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The following is a list of the ministers of 
Knapdale as far back as I have been able to trace them : In 1639, 
the Rev. Dugald Campbell was minister of Knapdale ; in De- 
cember 165B, the Synod ordered him to transport himself to 
Lochaber, which was his first charge before he went to Knapdale. 
In May 1661, he was allowed, at his own request, to return to 
Knapdale. To him succeeded, in September 1687, the Rev. 
Duncan Campbell, who died in March 1711. The Rev. John 
M'Gilchrist was ordained and admitted minister of Knapdale 
on the 12th April 1715, and, as the parish was so extensive, 
on the 20th of the same year, the Rev. Patrick Pollick was 
ordained and admitted second minister of the parish. The 
former died on the 7th February 1723 ; the latter was appoint- 
ed to South Knapdale in 1734. Mr Patrick Campbell was or- 
dained and admitted minister of North Knapdale on the 2dth 
September 1725, and was translated to Inverary on the 27th No- 
vember 1745. On the 10th June 1746, the Rev. Neill Campbell 
was presented by Sir James Campbell of Auchnambreck, but was 
rejected by a majority of the heritors and people. The Rev. Da- 
niel Campbell was admitted on the 14th June 1748, and was 
translated to Ardnamurchan on the 19th July 1756. He was 
succeeded by the Rev. Archibald Campbell, senior, who was or- 
dained and admitted on the 3d October 1 759, and was translated 
to Inverary on the 9th June 1774. To him succeeded the Rev, 

ARGYLE. S S 



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642 AUGYLESHIBE. 

Archibald Campbell, junior, who was ordained and admitted on 
the 14th July 1778^ and died on the 27th April 1810. The 
Rev. John Campbell was translated from the parish of Kilfi- 
nan, and was admitted on the 9th May ISll, and died on the 7th 
May 1815. The Rev. Colin Campbell was ordained and ad- 
mitted on the 2d May 1816, and died on the 27th February 1834. 
The present incumbent was translated from Berriedale, and ad- 
mitted minister of this parish on the 27th September 1836. 

There are two churches in the parish, — the one at Kilmicbael 
Inverlussay, near the manse ; the other at Tayvallich, three miles 
distant by sea, and ten miles by land. The church of Kilmicbael 
was built in 1 820, and is capable of accommodating 450 sitters ; 
the church of Tayvallich was built in 1827, and contains 700 sit- 
ters. Both churches are kept in excellent repair. The sittings 
are all free. The manse was built in 1820, and is in good repair. 
The garden is very productive. It is well stocked with apple» 
pear, cherry, plum, and peach trees, and with an abundance of 
gooseberry and currant bushes. The glebe, which is at the dis- 
tance of a mile and a half from the manse, contains about ten or 
twelve acres arable land, with pasture for twelve 6ows, twelve 
sheep, and four horses. The amount of the stipend, including 
L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements, is 223 bolls, ^ peck oat- 
meal, of 140 lbs. per boll, and 56.9314 imperial quarters of bear; 
money stipend, L.18^ 13s. 4d. The last augmentation took place 
in the year 1822. The teinds are exhausted. 

Education. — There are nine schools, — three of them parochial, 
and six on the teachers' own adventure. There are about 420 
children in attendance upon these schools from the 12th Novem- 
ber to the 1st March. The three parochial schools are this year 
attended by 204, and the six side schools by 215. In the paro- 
chial schools the usual branches of education are taught, includ* 
ing Liatin, geograpliy, and practical mathematics ; in the others, 
Gaelic and English reading, writing, and arithmetic The pare* 
chial teachers have each a salary of L.I 7, 2s. 2d. ; but, as the 
maximum salary is given and divided, the heritors are relieved, 
according to the construction put on the Schoolmasters' Act, from 
any obligation to provide school-houses or dwellings. The fees 
for the different branches of instruction are not the same in all the 
schools, but vary from Is. 6d. to 5s. per quarter. The school fees 
are seldom well paid, so that the teachers do not realize more than 
L.10 each from this source. There is no child above nine years 



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NORTH KNAPDALE. 643 

of age unable to read; above fifteen, there are 113 who cannot 
read or write. 

PocT and Parochial Fwids. — The average number of paupers 
receiving regular aid is 42. The sums allowed to each vary 
from 10s. to L.2, 5s. per annum. Besides those admitted 
on the poor's roll, there are other persons to whom occasional aid, 
during sickness or distress, is administered. The annual amount 
of collections, from the year 1837, to 1 843, averages L.20, 6s. ; and 
the deficiency during the above period has been supplied by the 
voluntary contributions of the heritors, who cheerfully concur in 
every measure calculated to increase the comfort, and improve- 
ment of the poor in the parish. It is with regret the writer ob- 
serves that the old Scottish spirit of independence, inducing a re- 
luctance to ask relief from the parish, is fast giving way in this 
part of the country. 

Inns and Alehouses. — There are six of these, of which at least 
two might, with advantage, be abolished. 

Fuel. — The fuel chiefly used is peats, procured at a very great 
expense from mosses, in some places two or three miles distant. 
Wood is also not unfrequently used for fuel by the poorer classes ; 
hut coals, which can be procured from ISs. 6d. to 13s. 6d. a ton, 
are now generally used by such as can afford to purchase them. 

MiSCEIrLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. 

There is a striking difference between the present state of the 
parish and that which existed when the former Statistical Account 
was drawn up, in respect of papulation, — the number of the inha- 
bitants since that time having more than doubled. Their houses 
are generally better built and better furnished, and the comfort 
of the people has undergone a similar beneficial change. The 
establishment of schools for the education of youth, the forma- 
tion of upwards of twenty miles of public roads, the opening of 
the Crinan Canal, whereby facilities are incalculably increased for 
exporting or importing produce, have all contributed to excite 
emulation and industry, to enlighten the minds of the inhabitants, 
and. to render their situation, in many respects, more comfortable. 

April 1844. 



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ISLAND OF ISLAY, 
PARISH OF KILCHOMAN* 

PRESBYTERY OF ISLAY, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
. Name. — According to tradition, Kilchoman has obtaiDed its 
name from being the burying-place of Chomanus, who is supposed 
to have come from the monastery of lona to establish the Gospel 
in Islay. The parish is situated on the west side of the island of 
Islay. 

Extent — Boundaries. — Its length is 20 miles. It averages 
about 5 miles in bread th, and contains about 100 square miles* 
At a former period^ it was an island, and it is still nearly surrounded 
by the sea, there being only a space of about one mile between 
the high-water mark of Lochindaal, and that of Lochgniinard. 
7bese arms, with the intervening space, formed, till two farms 
were annexed to it, the boundary on the south, south-east, and 
east sides. From the north-east point to the south-west extremity, 
it presents a line of coast, extending thirty miles, to the unob- 
structed swell of the Atlantic Ocean. Each end of the parish 
terminates in a point ; and at each point, there is a small island, 
separated from the mainland by a narrow channel. 

Near to the south-west point, an undulating ridge of hills rises, 
which runs in a north-eastern direction until it terminates with a 
gentle slope in the level ground below Sunderland House. To the 
berth of this flat it again rises, but with a somewhat lower elevation, 
and may be traced until it dips into the sea at Ardnave. The 
highest hill of this ridge does not exceed 500 feet* With an 
elevation so small, there can be no deep valleys ; and the flats are 
either covered with moss or formed into lakes, some of which.are 
within the range of a former level of the ocean. 

A great part of the coast is bold and precipitous. The east side 
abounds with creeks, yet the general feature of the shore is rocky. 
From the point of the Rinns to the point of Ardnave, the coast is 

* Communicated by the Rev. Alex. Cameron, late minister of the pariifa. 

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KILCHOMAN. 643 

rugged, in many places with high perpendicular cliffs, and with a 
few bays, where 6shing-boats are kept ; but, from the incessant 
heaving of the Atlantic, they must be hapled above the high- water 
mark. The largest bay is that of Kilchoman. It is about a mile 
in length, with a south- western aspect ; but, being without head- 
lands, it offers little or no shelter. 

Lochgruinard, on the north-east side, runs inland about four 
miles. A great part of it is dry at low-water, and is a place of 
safety for small vessels. There is a bar, but with sufficient depth 
in the channel, which is rather intricate. 

Lochindaal, which forms the eastern boundary, is of consider- 
able extent. At its entrance, between the point of the Rinns and 
the Mull of Oa, it is eight miles broad ; and it is twelve miles in 
length. It forms a good roadstead, and is much frequented by 
shipping during the stormy season. 

Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere is mild. 
Neither the extreme heat of summer nor the intense cold of win- 
ter is felt here. The prevailing winds are west and south-west. 
The heajiest rains fall with the wind at south-east, south, and 
south-west. Whenever it veers round to the west and north-west, 
the weather becomes showery, and clears up. 

The climate is mild, but may be called damp. The chief 
difficulty which the agriculturist has to contend with arises from 
the heavy gales of autumn. In places not exposed to their in- 
fluence, luxuriant crops may be grown, and delicate plants suc- 
cessfully cultivated. The climate is also favourable to the duration 
of human life. Persons who lived temperately have attained to a 
good old age ; yet, as illicit distillation prevailed so generally, few 
men have pa^ed the meridian of life without contracting diseases 
incident to free indulgence in ardent spirits, many of whom are 
cut off suddenly by inflammatory diseases ; but, from the suppres- 
sion of smuggling, these diseases are abating in intensity. 

Hydrography. — The only frith that needs be mentioned is the 
one that separates Isle-Orsay from the point of the Kinns. It is 
less than half a mile in breadth. At certain states of the tide the 
current, which runs northward for ten hours and a-half, is very 
rapid; for an hour and a-half*it runs in the contrary direction; 
while, outside the island, the set and run of the tide are regular. 

At the village of Portnahaven there is a strong chalybeate 
spring. There are several lakes. The largest is Lochgorum, 
which covers 600 acres. Its depth is from five to seven feet. It 



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646 ARGYLESHIBE. 

abounds in small trout ; and, from the extent of surface which it 
exposes to atmospheric influence, and from the smallness of the 
streams flowing into it, its water is nearly as light and pure as dis* 
tilled water. 

The only stream approaching in size to a river, flowed into Loch- 
gruinard. But the late proprietor, Mr Campbell of Shawfield, 
conceived the idea of embanking a large portion of the head of 
this estuary, which made it necessary to cut a channel of about a 
mile and a-half in extent for this river, and thereby turn its 
course into LochindaaL From that time, it ceased to be a sal- 
mon stream ; and the few sea-trout which frequent it, ascend only 
in the end of autumn. 

Geology, — The prevailing rock is clay slate al temating with 
greywacke and thin beds of quartz rock. The inclination is to 
the east, and the dip varies considerably in difierent places, from 
the almost horizontal to the vertical. The strata are occasionally 
intersected by beds of basalt, greenstone, and porphyry. 

At Sanaig, on the north-west coast, the clay slate is seen to al- 
ternate with fine-grained greywacke slate in a bed of upwards of 
100 feet in depth, and over this is placed a thick bed of quartz 
rock. Here a series of cliffs, nearly perpendicular, occurs, extend- 
ing a distance of above two miles : it is full of deep fissures and 
cavernsy which afford every facility for obtaining a satis&ctory view 
of the stratification. 

At Octofad, on the south-east side, the clay slate alternates with 
gneiss. This stratification may be traced for several miles, and 
round the point of the Rinns northwards, on the western side, till 
beyond the farm of Lossit. Both rocks are well defined, and do 
not appear in any instance to pass into one anoth^. The clay 
slate retains its strongly-marked blue colour,* while the gneiss is 
of a dingy red or brown colour. In several parts of the west coast, 
where the rocks assume a precipitous form, they show great de- 
rangement in their stratification ; the strata generally retain an al- ' 
most horizontal position, yet many masses have been so far dis- 
placed as to exhibit a perpendicular stratification. No limestone 
has been discovered ; but, as if to compensate the agriculturist for 
this want, every creek and bay contains inexhaustible beds of bro* 
ken shells, intermixed with particles of clay slate and quartz. 

Every description of soil may be found in this extensive parish. 
From the point of the Rinns, on the west shore of LochindaaU 
there is a succession of low rock and rich alluvial landi terminat- 

3 



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KILCHOMAN. 647 

ing in the mossy flat below Sunderland House. This tract, ex- 
tending twelve miles, has a south-eastern aspect, with a gentle 
slope, and being in a great measure sheltered by the rising ground 
to the west, is very fertile and safe for any kind of crop. In many 
parts it has been partially drained ; but, being chiefly in the hands 
of tenants, who do not possess skill enough to avail themselves of 
their facilities, the land, from exhaustion, and the non-observance 
of rotation in cropping, is comparatively unproductive. The west- 
ern side presents a less favourable aspect, and a less productive 
soil. The arable land is generally at a higher elevation, forming a 
sort of table land on the top of a high rocky coast. From the 
frequent, and heavy gales, crops raised here are more uncertain ; 
but the land is well adapted for pasture. 

Slate of a good colour and quality are made at Kilchiaran. The 
quarry is now wrought to a great extent. 

The parish is divided into two unequal parts by a flat, which 
consists of several hundred acres, narrow in the middle, but ex- 
panding at each end. At the east end, it extends to the head of 
Lochgruinard in one direction, and to Lochindaal in another, at 
an elevation little above the high-water mark. At the west end it 
communicates with the Atlantic in the bays of Kilchoman, Saligo, 
and Sanaig, having the high lands of Coull, Smaal, and Sanaig 
between them. Through this valley the sea must have made a 
full sweep, at some period beyond the era of authentic history. It 
is now covered with moss, varying in depth from three to nine feet. 
Below this is a bed of gravel and sand, containing such marine shells 
as are still to be found on the shores of the adjacent bays. Un- 
derneath this stratum lies a bed of strong blue clay, in which no 
animal remains have been discovered. Where the bed of gravel ' 
is of moderate thickness, and partially mixed with clay, large trees 
are exposed to view, lying in various directions ; and where the 
moss has been removed, many roots may be seen in situy giving 
rise to the supposition, that the trees were broken over at the for- 
mer surface of the ground. 

To the north of this valley the land is less elevated. It undu- 
lates without rising high, or forming valleys, until it terminates 
at the point of Ardnave. The west side of this point is compa- 
ratively unproductive, from want of drainage. Nevertheless, the 
soil in certain localities is good, consisting of a thin bed of moss, 
interspersed with clay and sand, lying on a bed of claystone rock. 
The east side of this point is well adapted for cultivation or pas- 



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648 ARGYLESHIRB. 

ture. Locbgruinardy^which forms the boundary of this point, ca^ 
vered more land at a former period than it does now, and the pro- 
cess of Blling up seems to be progressing. We have already alluded 
to the reclaiming of a portion of the head of the loch by the late 
proprietor. This he partly effected, by raising an embankment to 
keep off the tide, and partly by directing the course of the river 
which discharged its waters into it, by a new channel into Lochin* 
daaU Drains of sufficient depth and extent were formed to re- 
ceive the surface water, and to contain the streamlets which fall 
from the^'ground adjacent, during the period of full tide. The 
outlet of these drains is secured with a sluice, which opens and shuts 
by the pressure of the water. Several hundred acres of rich loam, 
incumbent on a bed of shells and clay, yielding abundant crops, 
have been by these means redeemed. The part of this basin that 
was above the reach of the tide, and farthest removed from the 
bank of the river, is deeply covered with moss. 

Zoology. — The Dean Munro, in his account of the Hebrides, 
has noticed that Lochgruinard abounded with seals. In the sum- 
mer and autumn, a few may still be seen, though their number is 
evidently decreasing. Otters are found about the lakes and shores, 
and the whole coast abounds with various kinds of fish. Cod, 
ling, coal-fish, turbot, soles, and plaice, are in their season caught 
on the different banks. Shoals of herrings are annually seen on 
the coast, and at times some enter Lochindaal, but do not remain 
so long as to become a source of profit to the fishermen who live 
on its shores. Oysters, mussels, buckies, cockles, limpets, lob* 
sters, and crabs, are to be had on various parts of the coast. In 
ihe months'of May, June, and July, the people use mussels and 
cockles to a considerable extent as articles of food ; the crabs and 
limpets, with a species of worm found in the bays, are sought after 
by the fishermen for baiting their hooks. 

The insects most destructive to vegetation are, a small fly that 
attacks the young shoots of the turnip ; a caterpillar, that feeds 
on the gooseberry and white currant bushes ; and a small aphis, 
that fastens on the fruit-trees and hedges. A strong infusion of 
hellebore sprinkled on the bushes, arrests the progress of the ca- 
terpillar^ and a weak solution of soap is equally fatal to the aphis. 

Flock^^of wild geese, barnacles, teal, and widgeon, with wood- 
cock and swans, take up their abode in the marshes and open wa- 
ters during the winter months. In summer, the lapwing, the 



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KILCHOMAN. 649 

liwallow, the landrail^ and the cuckoo, form the chief birds of pas- 



The native birds are, the heron, grouse, black-game, snipe^ 
plover, various species of the bunting and finches, the thrush, 
blackbird, and the starling. The Cornish chuff, and myriads of 
wild pigeons' occupy the rocks and the caverns along the shore. 
The birds of prey are, the raven, the hooded crow, and the hawk ; 
eagles are seen at times, but they have ceased to breed here. Of 
sea birds, there are various species of the gull, Scotch duck, and 
cormorants. Hares are numerous, and the sandy downs abound 
with rabbits. 

Botany. — The variety of plants is not numerous. A great pro- 
portion of the highest land is covered with short heath and coarse 
herbage. Red and white clover, with the common grasses, cover 
the finer pastures. The marshes contain the water lily, buckbean, 
and hemlock, and the lakes are generally fringed with bulrushes. 
Sea-kale grows on the islands of Ardnave. The buckbean and 
hemlock are used medicinally. From the appearance of the 
marshes, it is obvious that, at some remote period, trees grew 
abundantly, notwithstanding their being exposed to the unbroken 
force of the Atlantic gales. Man does not seem to have done 
much to promote the growth of timber, though soil and climate 
concdr to favour it, in every spot sheltered from the prevailing 
winds. The interior of the island contains a few plantations of 
recent formation, to which the present proprietor is adding exten« 
sively. About Sunderland House, the plantations are promising 
in situations naturally unfavourable. The growth is always vigo- 
rous ; and were a sufficient breadth planted, and well inclosed, 
wood might be made to grow both for ornament, and for use. 

n. — Civil History, 
The writer is not aware that any written record of the civil 
transactions of this parish is extant - But, from a fort, or place 
of defence being found almost on every promontory, or rock diffi- 
cult of access, and on the islands of the several lakes, one may 
safely conjecture that, at some period of its history, it formed the 
theatre of many a sharp conflict. It was long in the hands of the 
Danes and Norwegians, and many places still retain their Scan- 
dinavian names. In more recent times, it formed part of the pos- 
sessions of the Macdonalds, Lords of the Isles, the site of whose 
palace is now occupied by the manse and garden. Their right 
was challenged in the year 15dd. A hostile party of the Macleans 



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650 ARGTLESHIRE, 

from Mull, who effected a landing, were met by the Macdonalds 
on the side of Lochgruinard, when a bloody, and to the Macleans, 
a disastrous, battle was fought Their leader fell in the action, 
his followers gave way, a party of whom took refuge in the church 
of Kilnave, at a little distance from the 6eld of battle. To this 
asylum they were pursued by the victorious Macdonalds, who, 
setting fire to the church, and at the same time preventing the 
escape of the Macleans, effected their destruction with the build- 
ing, which stands to this day a roofless monument of the event. 
Maclean's body was buried in the church of Kilchoman ; but, by 
a partial change in the site of the new church, his grave-stone is 
outside, and close by the south-east corner. 

Land-owners. — Walter F. Campbell of Islay, M. P. ; Walter 
Campbell of Sunderland ; Colin Campbell of Balinaby. 

Parochial Registers. — These have been kept in this parish only 
since 1822. For several years a register of marriages and bap- 
tisms was regularly kept ; but since the Parliamentary churches, 
with the districts annexed, were erected into parishes quoad saera^ 
the minister at Portnahaven baptizes and marries without having 
the names of parties entered in the parish register. 

Antiquities. — A very handsome cross stands in the churchyard. 
On one side is a representation of the Saviour on the cross, with 
an illegible inscription underneath. On the other is a beautifully 
cut Runic knot. Its history is unknown. 

There are five churches in ruins in the parish; to each of these 
a burying-grouod is attached, some of which are used as such ta 
this day. At one or two of them there is a cross, and the fonts 
are in their original position. One of these ruins is on Island-nave, 
at the north point of the parish, and distant from it about one 
mile. To this a very extensive burying-ground is attached. The 
grave stones are made of clay slate, handsomely formed, many of 
them beautifully cut, and several with figures in relief. These 
mark the resting-place of persons of some note in their day, but 
of whom no other memorial is known. 

There are also several obelisks. The one on the hill near Ba- 
linaby house is the largest; it bears no mark of sculpture; it is 
18 feet above the surface. Above forty years ago. Captain Bur- 
gess of the Savage Sloop of War, with a party of his crew, dug up 
part of the sand-hill near it, where they found one or two swords, 
a pike-head, and many human bones. The arms they carried 
away : the ground has since lain undisturbed. 



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KILCHOMAN. 651 

There are several points along the coast detached by deep ra- 
vines and Gssures, which render them almost inaccessible. To ap- 
proach them by water. was a perilous undertaking, and where access 
CD the land side could be conceived possible, they were fortified 
by walls strongly built of stones, laid regularly, but without mortar. 

Buildings of the same description are found on the different 
lakes and on the top of several conical hills. In one instance, on 
the farm of Smaal, a mound and ditch formed the means of de- 
fence. Tradition has assigned these to the period when the Danes 
had partial possession of the island. 

Two gold ornaments of a singular description were found lately 
near to Sunderland House, under a large stone, which evidently 
at one time stood erect, but had fallen down, and which, in the 
process of levelling and trenching for agricultural purposes, was 
blasted and removed. In the black mould which it covered, were 
found a broad fluted ring of the size of an armlet, and a bar or 
rod, bent in a semicircular form, the ends of which are rounded 
out into a cup-like hollow. It would appear by a paper publish- 
ed lately by Sir William Betham, that they are some of the gold 
ring money of the Celts, and that similar ones have frequently been 
found in Ireland. Mr Campbell carried them to London, where 
it was ascertained that they were very pure gold. They weighed 
22 i sovereigns. They are now in his possession. 

During the last ten years, several stone coflBns were discovered 
in the conical hills below Sunderland Farm : they were in length 
from 2^ to 3 feet, from 20 inches to 2 feet wide, and from 16 to IB 
inches deep. They were formed of slabs of the clay slate of the 
district. Some contained one or two urns of rudely formed un- 
baked clay ; others contained skulls, and other human bones. 

Aiodem Buildings. — The mansion-house of Mr Campbell of 
Sunderland was built about twenty years ago, when he retired 
from the E.I.C. service. The situation is an elevated declivity, 
a mile distant from the shore of Lochindaal. The place chosen 
was covered with strong heath, and the low ground was an unpro* 
ductive marsh. The heath has given place to thriving plantations 
and luxuriant crops, and thorough drainage has converted the 
morass into good pasture land. 

The Commissioners of the Northern Lights erected, in J 824, 
a lighthouse on Isle Orsay, at the point of the Rinns. This erec- 
tion, and the houses and offices for the keepers, have been built 
in a substantial and commodious manner. 



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652 ARGYLESHIRE. 

A Parliamentary church and manse have been built at Portna- 
haven; an entire village at Port Charlotte, with an extensive 
distillery. Port Wymss, another village in the neighbourhood of 
Portnahaven, has recently sprung into existence. Within the same 
period, several substantial farm-houses, with suitable oflBces, have 
been erected by the proprietors. 

III. — Population. 
The state of the'population is as follows : — 



In 1801, 


2050 


1811, . 


. 3131 


1821, 


3966 


J831, . 


. 4822 


1841, . 


4505 



Gaelic is the language universally spoken by the natives in 
their intercourse with one another. The English language is 
very generally understood ; and from the number of families and 
individuals from the low country settled in the parish, it is much 
spoken. In proportion as the natives are becoming more enlight^ 
ened by education, the Gaelic is decidedly losing ground.' 

The custom which obtained of assembling neighbours and kin- 
dred, to attend at funerals, marriages, and baptisms, led to many, 
and grievous irregularities. This of late years has been giving 
place to a more orderly, and decorous mode of conducting fune- 
rals. At marriages, it is nearly discontinued, and at christenings 
entirely so. 

In their personal and domestic habits the people are not cleanly. 
In many instances, the cattle occupy the same apartment with the 
family ; and though fond of dress, and of appearing well attired 
when they go abroad, at home they are slovenly. Their ordinary 
food is potatoes, with milk and 6sh. During a great part of the 
year, very little oatmeal is consumed. In their culinary arrange- 
ments, there is great want of economy. They are improvident in 
the use of their food, and wasteful of their clothing. 

As a people, they are shrewd, fond of gossip and story-telling; 
there is amongst them a strong bias to cunning, and a want of truth- 
fulness. Of the grown-up population the majority are unable to read; 
— their minds are, therefore, comparatively uninformed, — and it 
cannot be said that they are either a moral, or a religious people ; 
and from the influence which their confirmed habits are producing 
on the rising generation, who are receiving a moral and religious 
education, a very immediate and decided change is scarcely to be 
expected. Till of late years, illicit distillation was universal ; this 



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KILCHOMAN. 653 

led to the neglect of field labour, and to the destruction of the 
social virtues. 

IV. — Industry. 

Extent of Kilchoman parish in imperial standard acres, as nearly as it has been 
ascertained, is . , . ^ . ^,000 

Cultivated, . . 4,500 

That may be cultivated, . 20,000 

Wood, , ... 20 

In pasture, . . . 25,480 

50,000 

The average rent of arable land is about 1 Is. per acre ; grazing 
of a cow for the year, 40s. ; and of a sheep, ds. 

Male farm-servants are paid at from L.8 to L.10, with food and 
lodging; or, in lieu of these, an allowance in meal^ potatoes, milk, 
or the keep of a cow, and a house and fuel. Female servants are 
paid at from L.d to L.6 per annum. 

In springs summer, and autumn, day-labourers are paid from 
Is. 2d. to Is. 4d., in winter, Is. In winter, work is generally done 
by contract, and at prices which enable an expert labourer to 
earn from Is. dd. to Is. 6d. Carpenters and masons are paid 
from 2s. to 2s. 6d. 

Lwe-Stoch. — The cattle are chiefly of the West Highland 
breed. Great attention has been paid to this description of stock 
by the proprietors, and by several of the tenants. Various means 
are being used for effecting this purpose, such as selecting the 
best bulls, raising green food for winter keep, and improving the 
herbage on the pastures by draining, ditching, and inclosing. A. 
good deal has been done in these respects ; but in comparison of 
what may be done, such improvements may be said to be only in 
their infancy. So far as draining and fencing have been carried 
into effect, the produce has, in many instances, been more than 
doubled ; and where the lapd is generally so wet, and in so humid 
a climate, a vast extent of moss and of unproductive marshes may 
be made available for feeding stock. The stock in the possession 
of the small tenants is of a very inferior description. It has 
greatly deteriorated of late years, — the partial failure of the pota- 
toes had greatly diminished the quantity and quality of their food 
in winter, and the limited sales which they were able to make 
during the low rate of the markets, compelled them to dispose of 
the best of their young stock to meet their augmented rental; 
this produced a pernicious effect upon their stock, and a ruinous 
one upon their means. 
• The sheep kept, with the exception of one or two lots of the 



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654 ARGYLE8HIRB. 

black-faced breed, are of a very ordinary kind, — ^being chiefiy id 
the hands of small tenants, who keep them as an overstock, and 
they are so badly managed as not to prove a source of profit 

Husbandry. — The duration of leases is for nineteen years. To 
such tenants as know the value of land, and are in possession of 
capital and enterprise, it may be said, that the conditions of the 
leases are decidedly favourable. 

The farms are generally let to a number of tenants who live to- 
^ether on one spot, cultivating the arable on the runrig system, 
grazing the pasture land in common. A change in this system is 
being effected, though it still obtains to a considerable extent, and 
must continue tq endure till the end of the current leases, where all 
the parties do not concur in making a regular subdivision. The 
obstacles which this mode of holding land presents to persons of 
skill and industry, in clearing and improving their lauds, need not 
be detailed here ; — to say that the system obtains is enough to sug- 
gest them to every enlightened, and intelligent mind* 

Farm-Buildings^ — The feroHbuildings^ and stone dikes are for 
the most part the property of the tenants occupying the fanxi& 
In some instances, they are kept in a state of thorough repair, 
though generally this corresponds with the means possessed by 
the occupants, and with their ideas of order, comfort, and eco* 
nomy. 

The principal improvements which have recently been made, have 
been effected by Mr Campbell of Sunderland, whose place of rest- 
dence and landed property are situated in this parish. He considers 
that, within the last twenty years, by enclosing, draining, and otbe^ 
wise improving waste land, he has more than tripled the original 
▼alue of his property. In cultivating moss, he has the water taken off 
by open and wedge drains ; the surface is then delved and levelled; 
shell-sand is spread on it at the rate of eight tons the imperial 
acre, and it is then manured for potatoes, or sown down with oats 
and grass seeds. What, previous to these operations, produced only 
heather, or very . coarse herbage, has now become a close green 
sward. Many hundred acres have* been improved after this man- 
ner, and the operation is still* in regular progress. The pasture 
land he has had surfece-drained and sanded at the rate of eight 
tons per acre. 

The increased value obtained from drainage on crop and pas- 
ture land appears to be pretty generally understood by the ten- 
antry, some of whom have been exerting themselves to render 



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KILCUOMAN. 655 

their farms more productive ; but on the whole, there is great lack 
of capital, industry, and enterprise among them. One spirited 
young man from Ayrshire entered lately into an extensive farm, 
and has commenced with the most promising and encouraging 
results, — furrow draining the strong clay land, which constitutes 
the chief part of his arable. 

Fisheries. — During the summer and autumn, the people of Port* 
nahaven occupy themselves in fishing cod, ling, and coal-fish, 
which they cure and dispose of at a high rate, in the Irish market. 
As every farm has its creek an its boats, a great quantity of fish 
is taken for supporting their families ; but, except at Portnahaven, 
they do not fish for the market, nor even for the maintenance of 
their own families, to the extent to which it might be carried. Be- 
ing partly fishers and partly agriculturists, they pursue neither vo- 
cation with proper energy. 

Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce 
yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as 
follows : 

4] 16 qoarten barley, at 268., 

4802 do. oaU,at 18s., 
50,880 barrels of potatoes, at 2s., 
40,000 stones rye grass bay, at 6d., 
]2»000 do. meadow bay, at 4d., 

2,500 tons turnips, at 8s., 
Peas and beans, 

2,058 cows kept, at 40s. , 

2,744 sbeep, at Ss., 

Fisb, . . . 

L.23,428 4 
There is an extensive distillery at Port* Charlotte, which, from 
having passed through a number of hands for the last few years, 
has not been kept in regular operation. 

. The people manufacture cloth for their own use, though, from 
the high price of wool, and the difiiculty of procuring it, much 
use is made of cotton fabrics by the working classes. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Villages. — There are three villages in the parish, — Portnaha* 
ven, Port-Wymss, and Port- Charlotte. The first two are partly 
fishing and partly agricultural villages ; the latter is entirely agri- 
cultural. 

Means of CommufiicaHon.'-^TheTe are twelve miles of a Parlia- 
mentary line of road in the parish, and thirty-four miles of statute 
labour road, all kept in a state of good repair. With three excep- 
tions, the public road passes through every farm in the parish. 



T...5aW 16 





4321 16 





5888 





iOOO 





200 





1000 





150 





4106 





411 12 





1000 






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656 ARGYLESHIRE. 

Bowmore, the nearest market- town, is twelve miles distant 
The post-office is at Bridgend^ nine miles distant. The letters 
are brought thence by a private runner. The mail is received and 
despatched four times weekly, — twice by a steam packet, and twice 
through Jura by the ferries, 

Portnahaven is the only place where a vessel of iany draught of 
water can be kept, and even there only during settled weather. Id 
stormy weather, the swell of the ocean breaks in with such tremen* 
dous force and violence, that no vessel can ride with safety, and 
the fishing«boats, which are of tlie size and description used at 
Newhaven, must be hauled up on the beach. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The church is built in a central situation, 
being about nine miles from the most distant part of the t>opula- 
tion. It is, however, inconveniently situated for the great part of 
the parishioners who are located near to each extremity, and, on 
the east side, at a distance of five miles from the church. In win- 
ter the attendance is necessarily limited ; but, in favourable wea- 
ther, the number who attend is considerable. The church affords 
accommodation for about 700. The sittings are all free. 

The church and manse were built in the years 1825 and 1826. 
They are handsome and commodious, substantially built, well fi- 
nished, and are kept in a state of good repair. The glebe con- 
sists of 26 acres, and may be worth from L.12 to L.15. Tbe 
stipend is the minimum. 

There is a Parliamentary church at Portnahaven. Two addi- 
tional churches are much wanted, — one at Port- Charlotte, with a 
population of about 800 within two miles of it, and all above five 
from the parish church ; another at the head of Lochgruinard, 
where the population is about 900, and all within three miles of 
the proposed site, and all above five miles from the parish church. 
A church here would accommodate a part of the population of 
Killarrow and Kilmeny, who are from seven to nine miles distant 
from their respective churches, and would be. within three miles 
of a church at Gruinard. 

The average number of communicants is about 240. There 
are eleven elders in the parish. There is an Independent chapel 
at Port- Charlotte ; but, there being only ten families of Dissenters 
in the parish, the congregation is small. 

The church collections for religious and charitable purposes 
average from L.12 to L.15 per annum. 

Education. — Besides the parochial school, which is very ineffi- 



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KILCHOMAN. 657 

ciently taught, there are two schools on the General Assembly's 
Scheme, — ooe supported by the Society for Propafrating Christian 
Knowledge,— one by the Edinburgh Gaelic School Society, — and 
six schools taught by persons on their own adventure. During the 
winter half-year, these schools are numerously attended. The 
branches taught are of the most ordinary description. None of 
the teachers received a classical education. The rates of pay- 
ment per quarter are Is. 6d., 28., 2s. 6d.p and ds. 6d. The young 
people are all toiight to read, >— the boys to write and figure. 
The salary of parochial teacher is L.25, with house and allowance 
Cor garden. There are six Sunday schools, which are well at> 
tended. Of the grown-up part of the population, above one-half 
are unable to read. They are, however, alive to the benefits of 
education, and make considerable exertions to get the children 
instructed. The change produced by the more general diffusion 
of education is perceptible in the conduct ef the younger part of 
the population, which contrasts strongly, in some respects, with 
that of persons of middle age* . 

Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial re- 
lief, including regular and occasional poor, is about 25. The sum 
paid to each per annum varies from 5s. to L.1, 10s. The funds 
for their support arise from collections in the church — from part 
of the fee paid on publication of bans — from mortcloth dues — from 
interest of a small sum in stock — and from fines recovered by the 
kirk-session from delinquents. The applicants for relief are in* 
firm aged persons, whose means of support have failed, and 
whose relations are either dead or in indigent circumstances. Be- 
lief is occasionally afforded to widows having young children. A 
feeling of independence still obtains, and it is considered a degra- 
dation to have one's relatives partially supported by the parish. . 
The wants of the poor are frequently supplied by neighbours. 
The parish finds bedding when necessary ; food and fuel are 
easily procured, and it is rarely any house-rent is exacted. The 
kirk-session have the privilege of recommending patients to the 
Royal Infirmary at Glasgow. 

Irms^-^Theve are seven public houses; three of these are kept 
by respectable persons who are in the habit of lodging travellers. 
The other four being mere tippling houses, are a great public nui- 
sanee, and exercise a pernicious influence on the morals of the peo- 
ple. 

ARGTLE. T t 



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ft58 AnGYLESHlRE. 

Fuel — Peat is the cbief fuel used. Coal is preferred by some,' 
which may be brought from Glasgow at a freight of 5s. per ton. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
At the time the former Statistical Account was written, flax was 
cultivated to some extent ; when prepared, it was spun by the fe- 
males into fine yarn, for the market ; but the superiority of the flax 
imported from the Baltic, with the more general application of 
machinery, has entirely superseded this branch of domestic eco- 
nomy. A great improvement has taken place in the facilities of 
communication. A powerful steam packet plies regularly between 
the island and Tarbert* Districts almost inaccessible are now 
opened up by means of good roads ; but the houses and mode of 
living appear to have undergone no great change. The altera- 
tion in the habits of the people has arisen, it is to be feared, more 
from the compulsory suppression of smuggling, than from their 
own conviction of its evil effects, for were the restraints which are 
imposed by law removed, it would in all probability become as 
prevalent as at any former period. One class of tenants were from 
the extent of land occupied by them, and from their better educa- 
tion, at that time very influential, but are now nearly extinct 
They held extensive tracts of the best pasture on very reason- 
able terms, which, during war, when prices were high, placed 
them in comparative affluence ; but unfortunately their prosperity 
became the cause of their ruin. They adopted the style and ex* 
pensive habits of landed proprietors ; and when, after the peace, 
the markets fell, they did not alter their habits to meet the change 
in their circumstances, and they have been since compelled to 
give place to strangers, and to a class of tenants of more economi- 
cal habits. A dislike to continuous labour prevails extensively 
among the working-classes. The inquiry, then, b. How is this to 
be changed ? As their natural wants do not seem to be sufficiently 
stimulating to produce a change, a more efficient moral influence, 
by means of the force of education on the female mind, must be 
brought to bear on the general character. 

In the year 1 825, only I in every 22^ of the females above six- 
teen years of age knew the letters of the alphabet. As the feel- 
ings and habits of the young are necessarily formed to a great de^ 
gree by females, it is reasonable to suppose that the impressions 
which they communicate, modify the character of the fiitureman. 
When their mind is so totally unenlightened with the knowledge 



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KILDALTON. 659 

of Divine thiBgs, they cannot convey correct ideas of moral obli- 
gation, or of relative duties, or of the place which personal labour 
holds in the scheme of God's moral government Idly disposed, 
and exhibiting a conduct governed by prejudices handed doWn 
from past generations, they not only do not contribute to the 
means of supporting the family, but they do not use judiciously or 
economically what is committed to their trust, nor easily adopt the 
suggestions of persons who are better informed. It is anticipated, 
that, as these habits and feelings give way to the force of Scrip- 
tural education, the comfort, morals, and happiness of the labour- 
ing classes will be promoted. 

Drawn up in 1839. 
BevUed 1844. 



ISLAND OF ISLAY. 

PARISH OF KILDALTON. 

PRESBYTERY OF I8LAV, SYNOD O'B ARGYLE. 

THE REV. ARCHIBALD MACTAVISH, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

^ofne.-— Tradition says that this parish derives its name from 
a step-son of one of the Macdonalds of the Isles, a young man of 
great prombe, who was killed in early life, and who was buried 
in the parish church. Kildaltan, or Kildalta, signifies the bury- 
iog-place of a step-son or foster-son. 

Extent^ Sfc — The parish extends along the south-east side of the 
Island of Islay. It is about 24 miles in length, and 7 in breadth. 
It is bounded on the north-east by the Sound of Islay, and on the 
south-west, by the Atlantic Ocean. The centre of the parish is 
nearly of an equal breadth, but it becomes considerably narrower 
towards each end. There is a range of hills extending along the 
centre in a parallel course with the sides, which gradually be- 
come higher as they approach the Sound of Islay. Their height, 
as far aa I understand, has never been ascertained. Benvigory 



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660 ABGYtKSHIRE. 

p the highest, and is celebrated for a severe ^ngageonefit wbict 
was fought there by the Macdooalds and Macleans, who^ for se- 
yeral years, disputed the possession of the country. The Mae* 
leans were beaten and pursued to the coast, where a number of 
them were killed by the Macdonakis, and others of them were 
drowned in attempting to reach an adjacent island, separated 
from the main by a narrow channel. This was one of the last 
bloody attempts made by the Macleans to recover the Island 
of Islay from the Macdonalds^ who continued for several years 
afterwards in the undisturbed possession of it. Next iu height to 
Benvigory is M^Arthur's Head, a bold high headland at the od- 
trance of the Sound of Islay. To the east of this hilly range, 
there is a considerable extent of arable and pasture ground, which 
is much intersected with rocky eminences. The valleys are very 
fertile, and yield good crops of oats, barley, and potatoes. Upon 
the north-west side of the hills, there is a considerable extent of 
level land, which is very partially cultivated ; but the present spi- 
rited and enlightened proprietor intends to farm it out in suitable 
divisions, from which we may expect, in the course of a few years, 
to see splendid crops of oats and barley waving where little is now 
to be seen but heath and fern. The valleys, with few exceptions, 
run from east to west. 

Caverns. — There are many places along the coast, where caves 
and fissures of various forms and dimensions are to be seen, but 
none which merits any attention, with the exception of a lai^e 
basin which was formed by some violent convulsion of nature, or 
worn out of the rock by the boisterous waves of the Atlantic 
Ocean. Its circumference is about 300 feet, and its depth from 
150 to 200. The sea flows into it by two openings ; one of them 
a splendid arch of considerable span, the other a narrow deep apea 
cut Directly opposite to the arch, is another cave of considerable 
depth, from which the sui^ is thrown back with such violence, 
that it is carried over the mouth of the basin to a considerable dis- 
tance. The whole outline of this part of the coast is peculiarly 
grand* 

Coa^. — The extent of the coast of this parish is fifty miles, in- 
dependently of the curves which are formed by the inninnerable 
inlets with which the coast is indented. It is in general low and 
rocky. Along the Mull of Oa, it is high and rugged. 

Bays. — The principal bays are, Portellen, Lagamhulin, Loch- 



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KILDALTON. Ml 

knock, Lochintallin^ Ardmore, Kenture, Aross, Claigean, Ard- 
tealla, and Proaig. 

The priDcipal headlands are, the Mall of Oa and M* Arthur's 
Head. 

Islands. — There are several small islands along the coast, but 
the only ones of any consequence are, Texa, Elian nan Caoracb, 
Ellaio, Imersay, the Ardelister Islands, and those off the point of 
Ardmore. 

The temperature all along this coast is mild. There is very 
little frost or snowj but generally a good deal of rain during the 
winter «id spring months, though it rarely happens that the crops 
of active and industrious farmers are much injured by it West* 
erly and southerly winds are the most prevalent The approach 
of southerly wind is known when the Irish coast appears higher, 
nearer, and more distinct than it does at other times, excepting 
when there is north wind and frost. The approach of westerly 
wind is indicated by a deep swell which rolls in from the Atlantic : 
north wind and frost, by the arrival of birds of passage, which 
migrate from the cold and stormy regions of the north to the 
more genial climate of the south. In bard winters, large flocks 
of swans and wild geese, with several varieties of the duck species, 
make their appearance here, and sometimes extend their flight to 
Ireland. The wild fowl which are indigenous, prognosticate the 
approach of severe weather by descending from the high to the 
low grounds, by assembling together in numbers, by approaching 
nearer to dwelling-houses, and by a restlessness which is not ob- 
servable at other times. Sheep and black-cattle also collect to- 
gether when a storm is at hand, and betake themselves to a place 
of shelter. From the variableness of the climate, the inhabitants 
are liable to colds, sore throats, and rheumatic complaints, but 
not more so than the people of the neighbouring islands. There 
are no distempers peculiar to the district ; and there are few places 
in which the people enjoy better health, upon the whole, than in 
this parish. 

Hydrography. — The water in the bays and along the coast is 
salt and luminous, but not deep. The currents are frequent and 
rapid, from the number of islands and rocks which extend along 
the shore. 

. There are many excellent springs in the parish, which never 
dry up. Some of them spring from limestone, and others from 
' granite. 



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662 AEOYLE8HIRE. 

There are several small lakes, in which there are a Dumber erf 
trout, many of which are reported to grow to a large size. Pike 
also abound in some of them* 

Geology. — The rocks are principally composed of granite and 
slate, occasionally intersected with whin dikes, which run ftom 
south-east to north-west. There is a slate quarry near the 
harbour of Portellen. The quality of the slate is very good, and 
there seems to be a considerable body of it Along the centre 
of the parish there is a great mass of excellent limestone, which 
is easily quarried, and is used for manure by those farmers who 
are at a distance from the shore. The limestone rock runs from 
north-east to south-west about six miles in an unbroken lines. 
There are appearances of ironstone in different places. Rock 
crystal is found in many parts of the parish ; some of it is of a deli- 
cate purple hue. The rocks, in general, incline to the west and 
north-west, and are covered with loam, clay, or moss. 

Soil — The soil is various. A considerable portion of it is rich 
loam; but sandy, gravelly, and clayey soils are also frequently to 
be met with. The sea has receded considerably from many parts 
of the coast. There are many fields at present in tillage, which 
were at one period covered with water. 

ifw-S<(H?A.— There are some very good cattle bred in the pa- 
rish ; but they differ in no particular respect from the cattle reared 
in the country. 

Zoology. — The only animals which formerly existed in the pa- 
rish, but are now extinct, are red-deer and foxes. The only spe^ 
cies of shell- fish which is of any importance is the buckie, mxat- 
bers of which 'are fished in spring and summer for bait for cod- 
fishing. There are also lobsters and crabs caught. Pert- 
winkles and limpets are found in many parts of the coast, and 
razor fish in the bays of Ardelister and Ardmore. 

Botany. — The only plants used for culinary purposes are cole- 
wort, cabbage, and wild spinage. The medicinal plants are 
valerian, trefoil, gentian, thyme, maidenhair, coltsfoot, jooiper, 
foxglove, furze, ground ivy, broad and narrow leaved plantain, 
daisy and docken. 

II. — Civil History. 
Land-owner. — Mr Campbell of Islay is sole proprietor. 
' Parochial Registers. — The first registers kept were lost, and 
those now in existence were very irregularly kept, until within the 
last fifty years ; but the present register is regularly kept. 



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KILDALTON. 663 

Antiquities.— There are two crosses near tlie ruins of the 
church of Kildalton; one of them very handsome, with a va- 
riety of ornamental Bgures carved upon it. They are both 
formed of gray granite, and fixed in plain blocks of the same 
stone. The ruins of four places of worship are still to be seen. 
The walls of three of them are still quite entire, though they 
have been unroofed for many years. They were evidently built by 
Roman Catholics. The font, and the remains of the altar, are still 
to be seen in each of them. There are also the ruins of three forts ; 
one at the Mull of Oa, one above Portellen, and another at the 
north-east side of the t>ay of Lagamhulin. The fort at the Mull of 
Oa is said to have been built by the Danes. It was erected up- 
on a high rock, separated by abroad deep chasm from the adjoin- 
ing land, and was inaccessible on all sides, except by means of a 
draw-bridge. From the apparent strength and solidity of the 
building, it might have stood for ages yet to come, had not Camp- 
bell of Calder, who had been sent by Argyle to take the command 
in the island after the McDonalds were dispossessed of it, found 
it necessary to rase it nearly to the ground, as some of the McDo- 
nalds who were disaffected towards him fled to this fort, and kept 
possession of it for some time, from whence they made frequent 
incursions, and harassed the inhabitants in their neighbourhood. 
Calder at last succeeded in dislodging them, and demolished the walls 
and filled up the chasm. The only tradition regarding the ruins 
above Portellen is, that it was a fort built by the Danes. It was 
erected upon one of the highest hills in that neighbourhood, and 
appears to have been very strongly built. The fort at the bay of 
Lagamhulin is called Dun-naomhaig, and is supposed to have been 
built by the McDonalds. It was the last stronghold that power- 
ful clan possessed in Islay. It was so well fortified that the Camp- 
bells were never able to dislodge them from it, until the leaden 
pipe which supplied them with water was cut. The onlv modern 
buildings of any note in the parish, are, a cottage built by Mr 
Campbell of Islay, a Parliamentary church and manse, which 
were insufficiently executed, and a handsome light tower, eighty feet 
high, erected also by Mr Campbell, to the memory of his much 
lamented, and most amiable and respected lady. 

There is a public road in the parish. 

III. — Population. 
The population of the parish has increased considerably. This 
is caused partly by the gradual improvement of the land, by which 



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664 ARGYLBSHIRE. 

a greater supply of food is raised, but principally from a practice 
which was allowed to go on for some years, of parents dividing their 
land with their children, which is fraught with many evils^ is highly 
injurious to the people, and detrimental to the proprietor ; but iu 
all the leases which have been lately granted subletting is strictly 
prohibited. A number of people have also congregated in the 
village of Portellen, which contains at present a population of 67S. 



of population Id 1801, 


1990 


1811, . . 


2269 


1821, 


2427 


1881, 


9065 


1841, 


Sdl5 



The language generally spoken is Gaelic, which does not ap- 
pear to have gained or lost ground for the last forty years, as far 
as can be ascertained. 

The customs and amusements of the people are similar to those 
which generally prevail in the Highlands. 

IV, — Indttstry. 

AgricuUure. — The extent of land in the parish which is under 
cultivation bears but a small proportion to what is waste, and might 
be rendered productive by the judicious application of capital. 
There are a great many acres under brushwood in the north*east 
end of the parish, and a good many have been lately planted by Mr 
Campbell, which are succeeding very well. I'he kinds generally 
planted are, oak, ash, fir, plane, alder, horse chestnut, and beedi. 
Those which are indigenous are, birch, alder, oak, ash, holly, ha- 
zel, and willow. 

There are raised in the parish from 800 to 900 bolls of barley ; 
1300 bolls of potatoes. 

BenU-^The average rent for grazing a cow or ox, is from L. 1 
to L. 1, 10s. a year, and from Is. to 2s. 6d. for a sheep. 

ffcf^^.-— The average rate of wages for farm-servants is from 
L.6 to L.8 per annum, with boarding. The wages of mechanics 
are generally Is. 6d. per day if fed by the employer, if not, 2&, 
A few years back, there were several hundred pounds worth of lint 
.yam sent annually to the low country, but there is little more sown 
now than the people require for their own use. 

Husbandry. — The system of husbandry which is now adopted 
generally over the island, is much the same with that followed in 
the low country. The late proprietor gave every encouragement 
to his tenantry, and set them a very laudable example in his mode 



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KlLDALTa^^• 66b 

of managing the farms which he occupied; and his successor is 
pursuing the same course. As a proof that the country is rapidly 
improving, it may be stated, that formerly there was generally two 
or three thousand pounds worth of meal imported annually into 
the island, but there is now a considerable quantity of oats esi- 
ported. There has been a great extent of waste land reclaimed, 
but there are still many thousand acres which might be rendered 
capable of bearing good crops at a OKMlerate expense. Few coun- 
tries are possessed of such facilities for improvement as this 
island. In the inland farms, lime, soft and hard, abounds, and 
on many parts of the coast there, is an abundant supply of sheU 
sand, which is found to be an excellent manure for all kinds of 
soils. Nineteen years is, in general, the period for which leases 
are granted. There are several good farm-houses, but few enclo« 
sures. The principal obstacles to improvement were smug- 
gling, the subdivision of land, bad roads, and the want of enclo- 
sures ; but as some of these are now removed, and all the rest likely 
to be so in a short time, it is to be hoped that inoprovements of 
various kinds will go on rapidly. There are no regular fisheries 
carried on, but there are cod and herrings caught occasionally on 
the coast. I have not been able to ascertain the quantity of raw 
produce raised in the parish : it is however very considerable, and 
increasing every year. There are six sloops belonging to the pa^* 
rish. 

V. — Pakogmial Economt. 

There is no market-town in the parish, and the distance to 
Bowmore, which is the nearest market* town, is fourteen miles from 
the centre of the parish. Portelleab the only village. There is a 
runner, who is paid by the country, from the post*office at Bowmore 
to the receiving house at Lagamhulin. There are two harbours, 
Portellen and Lochknock. The harbour of Portellen is large and 
well sheltered, and a convenient outlet for the west of Ireland. 
The channel is wide, and may safely be entered by the largest 
vessels in the darkest night, as the lighthouse which is erected 
there directs the proper course to be taken. This lighthouse is 
calculated to be of very essential service to all mariners who fre» 
quent this coast. 

The parish church is built nearly in the centre of the parish^ 
and is conveniently situated for the greater number of the pa- 
rishioners, since the parish has been divided, but a good many of 
the inhabitants are from e^ht to ten miles from it It was built 



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^M AROTLESHIRB. 

about twenty years ago, and is in pretty good repair. It affords 
accommodation Tor 450, and all the sittings are free* The manse 
was built about fifty years ago ; but there was an addition made to 
it about twenty years ago. The glebe contains sixty-five acres, 
some of which are very good ; but a considerable portion is rock 
and wet land. The value of jt may be reckoned about L.80 a- 
year. The stipend is L. 150, with L. 6^ 6s. 8d. for commuaion 
elements. There is a Government manse and church in the west 
division of the parish. Divine service is generally well attended, 
though it must be admitted that many still show a lamentable in- 
difference to this ordinance. The average number of communi- 
cants is 350. The average ambuot of church collections is 
L.23^ lOs. 

Education* — There are eleven schools in the parish ; one paro- 
chial, eight unendowed schools, and two supported by Societies. 

The people are in general very much alive to the benefits of 
education, and most desirous to get proper teachers. There are 
three places in the parish where schools are very much • required, 
namely, Kenture in the north end of the parish, ' Glenigidaie 
and Portellen. In both these places, the people engage young 
lads to teach their children, who are very seldom possessed 
of the necessary qualifications, but they cannot afford to get pro- 
per ones. The parochial teacher has the legal accommodations ; 
the school fees amount to from L. 8 to L.10 a-year. — Number of 
young betwixt six and fifteen years of age who cannot read or 
write, 93 ; number of persons upwards of fifteen years of age who 
cannot read or write, 129. 

Three additional schools are wanted to supply the rising gene- 
ration with the proper means of instruction. 

Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid 
is 40, who receive from 2s. 6d. to L. 1 per quarter, according to 
their necessities. The annual amount of contributions for their 
relief is L.28, 5s., in which is included L.4, 15s., being the inte- 
rest of JLIOO Sterling bequeathed to the poor of the parish by 
Major McNeill of Arduacross. Church collections are the only 
regular mode of procuring funds ; but Mr Campbell gives free 
houses to many of the poor, and liberally contributes to the sup- 
port of those who are represented to him as proper objects of his 
charity. 

There is a strong feeling of reluctance to apply for parochial 
relief, still displayed by many ; but it is yearly diminishing. A few 



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KILDALRON. 667 

are yet» howeyer, to be met with, who avoid it is as long as pos* 
sible. 

Faiu. — There are fairs held iu Portellen for the sale of black- 
cattle in the months of June, July, August, September, and No- 
vember* 

/IIIM.-7- There are thre^ licensed public-houses in the parish, 
and many licensed retail shops. The tendency of such houses is 
here, as in other places, injurious to the morals of the people ; 
but it must be admitted, that drunkenness is not at all so preva- 
lent, since smuggling was suppressed. The introduction of legal 
distilleries has been of great advantage in this respect, and also in 
giving employment to many of the people. There are six distil- 
leries in the parish, all in active operation. " 

Fueh — Turf is the fuel principally used in the parish ; but coals 
must be used in a few years, as some of the mosses have been 
improved and others cut out. Turf cost from Is. 6d. to 28. per 
cart, and coals from l^s. to 16s. the ton. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

The most beneBcial improvements would be, draining, enclos- 
ing, and making good roads to the different farms, all of which 
would promote the industry and comfort of the people ; and good 
schools in the remote districts would add much to their welfiEtre. 

The principal variations betwixt the present state of the parish 
and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Account, 
Bxe^st^ in the additional number of schools established in different 
parts of the parish ; the suppression of the denioralizing practice 
of smuggling ; the sure and ready markets which the farmers have 
for their bear and barley in the different distilleries ; the improve- 
ments nnade in the system of husbandry, by which a greater supply 
of food is raised with less expense and labour. Another improve- 
ment, which is very advantageous, is the superiority of the stocks of 
black-cattle and sheep now in the parish, to those formerly kept 
in it, and the better methods of rearing and feeding them, in con- 
sequence of which they can be sent to market much earlier in 
the season than formerly. 

April 1844. 



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ISLAND OF ISLAY. 

UNITED PARISHES OF 

KILLARROW AND KILMENY. 

PREaBTTBBT OF I8LAT A14D JURA5 SYNOD OF AR6YIJE. 

THE REV. ALEXANDER STEWART, MINISTER. 



L— Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — Killarrow took its name from St Marrow, whose cell 
or burying-place was in the parish : and Kilmeny has doubtless 
had a similar derivation* Killarrow is now frequently called Bow- 
more ; the old church at Killarrow having been thrown dovm» and 
the present church built at the village of Bowmore. 

Extenif S;c, — The parish is of great extent, being seventeen or 
eighteen miles long, and eight broad. The lands are generally 
low ; the hills are not very high, nor rocky, but covered with 
heath and fern. The river Luggan, where there is a salmon 
fishing, is one of the largest in the district, emptying itself into a 
bay of the same name, in the south comer of the parish. The 
river of Killarrow runs a great way in the country, and empties 
itself into the bay or harbour of Lochendaal, which harbour runs 
from the Mull of Islay and the Runn'^s Point, about 19 miles to 
the pleasure grounds of the proprietor, Walter Frederick Camp- 
bell, Esq. It is an excellent harbour for shipping, is very much 
resorted to, and of late more than ever ; as the proprietor has 
built a fine quay at*the village of Bowmore. 

Sail^ Spc. — The soil varies in most of the farms. The fiirmers 
plough too much ground. Mr Campbell has improved laige tracts 
of moor ground, within view of his own house, whiph lies about 
three English miles from the village ; and, from his method of 
cultivation, they have produced large crops^ He spares neither 
pains nor expense ; and in this respect, several of his tenants at- 
tempt to imitate him. 



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KILLAIIROW AftD KILMENY. 669 

Climate, ^<?.— The air is geoerally moisL The prevailiog 
wiods are die west and south-west 

II. — Cl¥IL HlSTORT. 

Parochial Registers. — There are four parochial registers,— I </, 
Marriage register, commenciDg November 15, 1789; 2dj Bap* 
tism register, commeDcing November 17, 1789 ; 3d; List of poor, 
and state of poor's funds, commencing June 13, 1819; Ath^ Kirk- 
session minute-book, commencing March 6, 1823; all regularly 
kept from the respective dates of their commencement. Any- 
thing previous to these dates consisted of mere scraps. 

Land-owners. — W. F. Campbell, Esq. of Islay, is the sole pro- 
prietor. 

Mansion-house. — The only one in the parish is Islay House. 
Antiquities. — About the beginning of the seventeenth century, 
the feuds which had long subsisted between the Macdonalds of 
Islay ,and the Macleans of Mull, ended in the transference of the 
inheritance of the island to the Campbells of Argyle^ 

'^ The remains of the strongholds of the Macdonalds, in Islay, 
are the following. In Loch Finlaggan, a lake about three miles 
in circumference, three miles from Port Askaig, and a mile off the 
read to Lodi-in-Daal, on the right hand^ oo an islet, are the ruins 
-of their principal caM^e or palace and chapel ; and on an adjoin log 
island the Macdpnald council held their . meetings. There are 
traces of a pier, and of the habitatbns of the guards on the shore. 
A large stone was, till no very distant period, to be seen, on which 
Macdpnald stood when crowned, by the Bishop of Argyle, King 
of the Isles. On an island, in a similar lake. Loch Guirm, to the 
west of Lochin-Daal, are the r^nains of a strong square fort, 
with round corner towers; and towards the head of Loch-in*Daal, 
on*the same side, are vestiges of another dwelling and pier. 

<< On French Isle, in the Sound, are the ruins of Claig Castle, a 
square tower, defended by a deeper ditch, which at once served a3 
a prison and a protection to the passage. At Laggavouiin Bay, an 
inlet on the east coast, and on the opposite side to the village, 
on a large peninsular rock, stands part of the walls of a round sub- 
stantial stone burgh or tower, protected on the land side by a 
thick earthen mound. It is called Dun Naomhaig, or Duni- 
vaig. There are ruins of several houses beyond the mound, 
separated from the main building by a strong wall. This 
may have been a Danish structure, subsequently used by the 
Macdonalds. There are remains of several such strongholds 



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670 ARQYLESHIRE. 

m the same quarter. The ruins of one are to be seen on an 
inland hill, Dun Borreraig, with walls twelve feet thick, and fifty^- 
two feet in diameter inside, and having a stone seat two feet high 
round the area. As usual, there is a gallery in the midst of the 
wall Another had occupied the summit of Dun Aidh, a large, 
high, and almost inaccessible rock near the MulL" 

IIL — Population. 



Amount of population In 181], - 4635 
1821, - 5778 
1831, > 7105 
1841, 7841 




In Bowmore village, per oentua. 

TotaL Males. 
1841, 1274 607 
Country part of the parish, - - - 2753 1381 


Femali 

667 

1822 



Total population of Killarrovr, incluslTe of Kilmeny, 1841, 4027 1938 2489 

IV.— Industrt. 
AgneuUure."^ 

The Quraber of acres, either cultivated or occasiooally in tillage, is 15,000, Seots 



About 18^000 acres yre conatantlywaste or in pasture. 

A large proportion of these 18^000 acres might be cultivated with a profitable ap- 
plication of cap jtaL 

The present proprietor has planted to a large extent, and con- 
tinues' to 4o so. There were few. or no planted trees, till he suc- 
ceeded to the property. About 1000 acres may be stated as un- 
der young thriving wood. Hard- wood grows b^t* 

Rent. — Arable land may be stated at from 15s. to L.1 per 
acre ; grass land from Is. to L.L The farms are not let by mea- 
surement 

The real rental of the parish is L.8400. 

The pasture lands have been much improved of late years by 
surface drains. Furrow-draining has also been carried on in the 
arable land. A tile-work has lately been erected for making 
drain-tiles. In short, the tenants are encouraged in every way 
to improve their lands by draining and liming, — the landlord 
bearing the expense* in most cases, of opening the drains. 

A local Agricultural Society has been established for some years, 
and prizes are awarded for the improvement of the breed of black* 
cattle and sheep, and for the encouragement of green crop hus- 
bandry among the small tenants. 

The only manufacture is distilling, which is carried on to a 
considerable extent in the island. There are three distilleries 
in this parish, — Lossit, Talant, and Bowmore, producing above 



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KILLARROW AND KILMENY. ^71 

60>000 gallons among them. The whisky of the island being 
very much famed for its fine quality^ commands the highest price 
in the market. > 

Fishing. — There are no regular fishings in this parish. Salmon 
and all kinds of white fish are abundant on the coast Fishing, 
however, has never been carried on as a trade ; but Mr Campbell 
is now treating for letting the salmon fishings. 

V. — Parochial Economt. 

EcckiiasHcal State. — The stipend is L^ldO, with L.5 for com- 
munion elements, in Bowmore. That of the minister of Kilmeny 
parliamentary church, is L.120. There are also jtioad Mccra par- 
liamentary churches at Oa and Portnahaven, endowed with the 
usual stipend of L.120. 

The manse was built about the beginning of the present century. 
It is a comfortable house and in good repair. 

Education. — There is a parochial school in Bowmore, and a 
parliamentary school in Kilmeny parish. Two Gaelic Society 
schools are at present in Bowmore parish. There is a female 
school near Bridgend, to the teacher of which, besides accommo* 
dations, Mrs Campbell of Islay gives a salary of L. 12 per annum. 
There are, besides, about a dozen of adventure schools through- 
out the parishes, almost all of them of a temporary nature, notgene- 
rally taught during summer months, and generally inefficient. 
Two permanent additional schools are much required. The pa- 
rochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary. Schoolmaster fees 
about L. 25 per annum. House and glebe worth about L« 12. 
The teacher is also session-clerk ; and Mr Campbell of Islay hat 
allowed him, in addition to salary, a gratuity of L.9, 7s. 4d. per 
annum. The salary of the parliamentary schoolmaster of Bally- 
grant, parish of Kilmeny, is L.35 per annum. 

Poor. — The average number of poor is 45. Thirteen of them 
have as nearly as possible an average of 2s. per week, and the re- 
maining 32 occasional poor may be said to have about L. 20 a- 
year dispensed among them. Average annual amount of con- 
tributions, about L.70; from church collections, about L.60; 
from legacies, KIO. Mr Campbell of Islay, when the session 
are short of funds, supplies what meal or money is required for 
the poor. 

April 1843. 



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PARISH OF KILMADAN. 

PRESBYTERY OF DUNOON, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. 

THE REV. WILLIAM GRANT, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name^ Situation^ Soil^ S^c. — The most ancient name of tins 
parish is said to have been Glenduisk^ signifying the ^* GHeo of 
the Blackwater." A battle was fought between MeekaD, «on 
of Magnus, King of Norway, and the Albuns or Gails, where 
it is said the Norwegians were slaughtered on each side of a 
river called Ruail, which runs through the middle of the glen ; 
and their bodies being thrown into the river, gave the colour of 
blood to it. Hence the parish got the name of GUnderwell^ and 
the river the name (A RuaiU which signifies the ^ Glen of Bed 
Blood." Though the epithet red is unnecessary, to be added to 
blood, yet it is very often done in Gaelic. After the introductioo 
of Christianity into the country, the place of worship was conse* 
crated to St Modan, and called Cella Modani, or Kilmadan* 

The parish is 1 2 miles long, almost contained in the bottom of 
the glen, and a little more than a quarter of a mile broad. It is 
bounded by Kilfinnan, Inverchallen, Dunoon, and Strachur. The 
parish is almost a flat, bounded by hills, covered mostly with heath. 
The air is moist, the soil deep and fertile. The extent of the 
sea coast is about three miles. The shore is sandy and. flat for 
the most part. * (Old Statistical Account.) 

II.— Civil History. 

Eminent Men. — This parish gave -birth in 1698 to a very able 
mathematician, Colin Maclaurin, Professor of Mathematics in 
the University of Edinburgh, and also to a very eminent divine, 
tlie Rev. John Maclaurin, both sons of John Maclaurin, once Mi- 
nister of this parish. 

Parochial Registers. — That of births and baptisms commences 
in 1737; marriages in 1787 ; church collections in 1745; church 



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90 





1 


4 


II 


8 


11 


9 


8 


34 


9 


6 


28 14 10 



KILMADAN. 67S 

discipline in 1745. They have xyeen regularly kept for the Ust 
fifty years. 

Land'Oumers. — These are, with their valuations, as follows:— 

Angus Fletcher, Esq. of Dunans, « « . 1^18 16 8 

Arebtbald Campbell, Esq. of Glendaruell, 

Donald M'Chananicfa, Esq. of AuchadiAiiiranbeg, 

M^ingo N. Campbell) Esq, of Balliroore, 

Robert N. Campbell, Esq. of Ormidale, 

John Campbell, Esq. of Soath Hall, 

Total, . L. 1 88 2 

Mansion-Houses. — The only mansion-houses in the parish are 
those of Dunans, Glendaruell, and Ormidale. 

Antiquities. — Various traces of the invasion by the Danes still 
exist in this parish. Rude cairns or tumuli can, at this day, be 
pointed out; and several very perfect stone coffins have, from 
time to time, been discovered, in which, it is believed, the ashes 
of their chiefs slain in battle were buried. 
III. — Population. 

Amount of population in ISOl, 502 

181 1, 622 

1821, 7S1 

1831, 648 

1841, 578 

During the last three years, there have been 3 illegitimate chil- 
dren in the parish.' 

IV. — Industry. 

AyrictdtvTe, — The number of acres under cultivation is 1301. 
There are 19,527 mostly in moorland pasture. 975 acres are 
under wood, a considerable portion of which is natural copse. 
The planted wood consists chiefly of larch, which thrives re- 
markably well, beautiful specimens of which are to be seen at 
Dunans and Glendaruell. The late proprietors of Ormidale did 
much to adorn that beautiful and romantic spot by planting ; and 
there is no place in the parish, in which all the different tribes of 
firs thrive so well. 

iZm^-— The average rent of arable land is L.I ; and pasture, 
2s. Real rental of the parish, L.3240. 

Of late years, a change has taken place in the system of agri- 
culture throughout the parish. A more regular rotation of crop- 
ping has been observed, with the modern system of furrow-draining. 
The sheep pasture has been much improved by surface-draining, 
which, combined with the inducements more recently held out by 
a. Pastoral Association formed in the district, has tended greatly 
to improve the quality of all kinds of stock. 

ARGYLE. ^ U U 



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674 AUGYLESHIRB. 

The fishing of salraon and trotit in the river Ruel was formerly 
remarkably good, but of late» in consequence of the prevalence of 
netting along the arms of the sea, the number of fish of all kinds 
in this river has very much decreased. 

Several smacks belongings the parish, which are employed in 
summer at the herring-fishing, trade from the mouth of the Ruel 
to the adjacent ports on the frith of the Clyde in the export of 
potatoes (for which this parish is famed,) and generally return 
laden with manure for the farmers. The average tonnage of these 
vessels is from 12 to 80 tons. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

EcehsiasHcal State. — Forty-eight families belong to the Esta* 
blished Church ; 41 do. are Dissenters. The stipend amounts to 
L.160. The glebe contains 13 acres; value L.20. The manse 
was built in 1773. 

Education. — There are three schools in the parish. The pa- 
rish teacher has a salary of L.27, 10s. ; fees, L.10; other emolu- 
ments, L.4. 

Poor. — There are 11 on the roll. Each receives about 
L.2, 12s. lO^d. per year. The total amount distributed is L.d9; 
15s. 6^d. annually; whereof L.24, 19s. Sjd. arise from church 
collections, and L.8^ 16s. Id. from mortcloth, marriages, and other 
sessional funds. 

June 1844. 



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PARISH OF GLASSARY. 

PRESBTT£Ry OF INVERARY, SYNOD OF AR6YLE. 

THE REV. DUGALD CAMPBELL, MINISTER .♦ 



L — Topography and Natural History* 
Name. — GLASSARYbas been saidf to be *' eyideDtly derived from 
Glastra" or rather Glas-srath^ a greyish slrath, as being *^ descrip* 
tive of the lower end of the parish/' It may be so ; but GIom^ 
airid/i, or the Grejf Pasturagt or SheaKngy seems a less forced and 
still more descriptive etymology, characteristic alike of the pasto- 
ral habits of the past ages, and of the general appearance of the 
Mrhole parish, whose surface of rugged uplands rather than of lofty 
mountains, renders it naturally more fitted for pasturage than for 
tillage. 

Boundaries^ <$•& — It is bounded by Lochfyne on the south and 
south-east ; by Lochawe and part of the parish of Kilmartin on 
the north-west and north ; by the parishes of Inverary and Dala* 
vich on the east and north-east ; and by those of Kilmartin, North 
Koapdale, and South Kuapdale on the west and south-west It 
varies from 8 to 10 miles in breadth, and from 12 to 16 miles in 
length. It is saidf to consist of 150 square miles, or 75,000 
Scotch acres ; and it is divided into 225^ merk lands. It stretches 
along Lochfine for 16 miles, from the stream called Leachdan at 
the Furnace, which divides it from the parish of Inyerary, to the 
stream south of and close to the village of Lochgilphead, which 
separates it from South Knapdale on the one side ; and on the 
other it extends along the banks of Lochawe for 8 miles, from the 
stream on the east side of the farm of Brabhealaich to the Ford« 
On the west the valley of Glassary extends nearly from side to 
side of the parish. This valley varies in height from 200 to near 
600 feet above the level of the sea; also in breadth and in ferti- 
lity, having its acclivities on either side partially wooded^ and a 



* Drawn up by the Rev. O>lio Sinitb, Inverary. 

t Vide Old Stat Aecoupt. 

X SmiUi^ Agricultural Survey of Argyleshire. 



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676 



ABGYLESHIRB. 



small lake, called Lochan Leamhan, near its centre. It also varies 
the character of the parish scenery, by terminating or interrupting 
the extensive tract of hill and moss which reaches from the shores 
of Lochfyne to those of Lochawe* 

Meteorology. — The weather in this parish is of that changeable 
character which its geographical situation indicates. The prevail- 
ing winds are from south-west to west and north-west, and coming 
from the Atlantic charged with vapour, which is formed into clouds 
by contact with the mountains, they fail not to supply rain abun- 
dantly. It is remarked, however, that when a south-west wind 
continues for some time, it is accompanied by the finest and most 
settled weather. When the wind is north-east, the weather is al- 
most always dry, though often cloudy and cold. A daily register 
of the temperature and pressure of the atmosphere is kept at Kil- 
mory, the residence of Sir John P. Orde, Bart. From observations 
made for several years with the rain-gauge in that place, the quan- 
tity which falls annually may be considered to be from 60 to 70 
inches. 



Quantity of rain, as ascertained by the Rain-Gauge on the leads 
of Kilmory House,* in the parish of Glassary, for the years 
1835-6-7. 





1885. 


1886. 


1837. 


Average. 


January, 


8.20 


12.80 


4.20 


a56§ 


February, 


6.60 


ad5 


6.30 


5.4l| 


March, 


4. 


a75 


2.65 


b.m 


April, 


2.50 


4.85 


a2o 


a78| 


May, . . 


8.90 


0.06 


2.15 


8.89i 


June, • 


2.80 


4.50 


^20 


a 


July, . . 


8.80 


9.15 


2.10 


5.01} 
4.96} 


August, 


5.40 


4.50 


5. 


September, . 


5.90 


7.85 


a75 


5.88 


October, 


4.10 


5.20 


8.80 


&86| 


November, . 


9. 


a95 


5.IOt 


7.684 


December, • 


5.80 


6.80 


ai8j 


6.071 


Total, . 


61. 


76.26 


31.08 


62.78 



* Communicated b^ Sir John P. Orde, Bart. 
•f- November 1827 is taken to 7tb December. 
X December only to the 27th in 1887. 



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OLA6SARY. 



677 



Thermotneter, as noted at Kilmory House.* 



1837. 


Morning. 


Night. ■ 1 


Highest. 


Lowest. 


Mean. 


No. 
Obs 


Highest. 


Lowest. 


Mean. 


No. 
Obs 


Feb. 

March, 

April. 

May, 

June, 

/u)y, 

Aug. 

Sept. 

Oct. 

Nov. 

Dec. 

Jan, I 

l8d8S 


46 

42 

63 
61 
62 
54 
54 
50 
47 

46 


30 

28 

46 
52 
39 
42 
35 
30 
33 

86 


38 
351^ 

55^*2 

58 

53if 

41? 


18 
26 

20 
26 
21 
14 
15 
24 
30 

7 


48 
43 

60 
69 
60 
52 
56 
51 
50 

46 


30 
27 

41 
42 
42 
42 
36 
32 
30 

40 


S8 

lis 

42| 


18 
27 

i*9 
27 
24 
17 
14 
26 
30 

6 




63 


30 




60 


SO 









Barometer, 


as noted at Kilmory House. f 






1837. 


£ 


1 


1 


i 




'i 


1 


J 


=5 




February,^ 


30.03 


28.32 


29.223 


55 




11 


4 


3 


5 




March, 


30.14 


28.77 


29.732 


70 


\i 


6 


18 


5 






April, 
May. 
Tune, 




— 




... 


... 




... 






... 


30.01 


29.07 


29.'63 


62 


... 


7 


i'e 






.•• 


July, 


30.06 


2a68 


29.6264 


72 




14 


16 


... 




...§ 


August, 


30.06 


29 06 


29.59 


73 


... 


13 


18 


... 






September B 


29.96 


26.90 


29.53 


49 




12 


18 




1 


5 


October.5 


30.31 


28.54 


29.52 


44 


... 


18 


4 




5 


5 


November, 


29.91 


2a45 


29.351 if 


87 


4 


18 


6 


1 


4 


8 


December, 


80.15 


26.68 


29.48,*/5 


110 


8 


20 


11 






6 


Jan. 1838, 


30. 


28.69 


29.451 


21 




5 


I 


5 


2 


1 


Total 


80.81 


28 32 


29.509465 


648 


... 




... 


... 


... 





Hydrography. — Two sides of this parish, as has been seen, are 
bounded by water, and it contains numberless fresh-water hikes, 
the principal of which is Loch-Ederlin, situated beautifully about 
a quarter of a mile from the north-west end of Lochawe, and only 
a few feet higher, embosomed in mountains, and adorned with 
plantations, whose lights and shades are enshrined in and reflected 
by its calm unruffled surface. There are also many others in the 

• Communicated by Sir John P. Orde, Bart. 
f Ibid. 

t From the 1 1th to the 28tb only. 
§ 1 Thunder. 

I 7, 8, 9, 10, 18, 19. 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, not observed. 
f 2, 3. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 17, IS, »9, 20, 21 , 31, not observed. 



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678 AROYLESHIRK. 

moors, as Lochglaissean and Lochshineaeh, from which the Ad, 
the principal stream in the parish, flows. This stream runs to the 
south-west through the valley of Glassary, and is liable, during 
heavy rains, to overflow its banks, and do much injury to the sur* 
rounding fields. It discharges itself at Crinan, and there is a sal- 
mon fishery on it, which is under the management of the proprie- 
tor. 

The depth of the lakes generally is unknown. That of Loch- 
fine is ascertained, however, and while many variations must be 
supposed to occur in the land under as above the level of its wa- 
ters, it may serve every useful purpose merely to state, that at 
Camlodden its depth is 35 fathoms ; between Minard and the op- 
posite side at Castle- Lachlane, 12 to 15; opposite Lochgair, 40, 
and at Airds Point, 15 to 50 fathoms. Lochgilp and Lochgair 
are two small branches ofl* Lochfyne, about six miles distant, the 
latter being little more than a well-protected bay, while the for- 
mer is about a mile and a-half in length, but so shallow as not to 
be navigable for boats of any burden during low water. 

^* The springs with me,* at least those which are perennial, 
rise mostly from the veins of hard siliceous limestone^ They are 
very clear, but contain a good deal of lime and a little iron. I 
have tested them all roughly, and discover little difierence in 
them ; nor do they contain a notable portion of any other ingre- 
dient. I have never found the temperature of those near my 
house to vary sensibly from 48°. 

^* Tides — The current of flood and ebb set strongly up and 
down Lochfyne, on the Argyle shore. From Silvercraigs, the 
ebb sets across to Caoldhu, along which line there is a bank of 
rock, on many parts of which there is very shoal water, particu- 
larly at a point called An Sgor Mhor^ opposite to InvernieL In 
Lochgilp, the tide is much less strong. A great change has 
taken place in the ebb at the head of Lochgilp during the last 
twenty or thirty years. From being a firm sand, it has become 
soft and muddy, and is seldom or never dry. I had to extend my 
slip or landing causeway several times, in consequence of the bank 
always growing out at the end of it ; but this might possibly be 
caused by the slip itself." 

Geology. — The rocks are slaty. On the north-east end of the 
parish they are micaceous, becoming harder and. less ragged io 

* 1 have been indebted to the kiodneti of Sir John P. Orde, BarC, Kilmory, for 
this and much valuable information throughout this report. 



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GLA8SARY. 679 

the fracture towards the tops of the hills. They are often speckled 
with red» in consequence of partial decomposition. Masses of por- 
phyry, several miles in extent, jut through the prevailing rock to 
a height of 700 or 800 feet at Camlodden, and at the points of 
junction the slate appears redder in colour and friable. 

Towards the west and south- west part of Glassary, the slate be* 
comes less micaceous by degrees, the porphyry disappears, and 
the hills soften down both in form and height. Clay slate and 
chlorite slate, of a dwrk green colour, and abounding in pyrites, 
form the rocks of this district, frequently interstratified with grey 
felspar of varying thickness, containing oxide of iron, and traversed 
at different angles by veins of greenstone. 

On the shores of Lochawe, sections of the rock have been laid 
open in forming the road, which exposes at some points the junc- 
tion of the slate with the granitic rocks on which it is superincum- 
bent These seetions are also important in an economical point 
of view, showing that, from the slate of this district, flags of any 
size and suitable for any purpose may be found with the least pos- 
sible trouble ; while the antiquarian may also learn from them how 
easily the stones which formed the Druidical circles, the flags which 
roofed ancient castles, and formed the stone-coffins of the dead, 
might have been obtained. 

The strata extend in the direction of south-east and north-west, 
with occasional contortions, such as are generally found in schis- 
tose rocks, and they dip south-west. 

Limestone is found abundantly interspersed through the schistus 
in many parts of the parish ; and a copper-mine was opened by 
the present Duke of Argyle on the farm of Brainchaoille, which, 
though the ore was excellent in quality, was not found to occur in 
such quantity as to remunerate the working, and was therefore 
abandoned. 

Boulder stones of various sizes are met with, of a rounded form 
received by attrition, and consisting of the granite and porphyry, 
&c of the neighbouring hills. 

The soil varies with the character of the subjacent rocks. 
Along the banks of Lochfyne, towards the south-east part of the 
parish, it is gravelly, reposing on rock or clay^ or sometimes' 
mingled with peat ; while on the south-west end, and along the 
banks of Lochawe, the soil is a deep and dark loam for the most 
part, and of a fertile quality. Peat occurs at all elevations, and 
in all parts of the parish. 



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680 ARGYLBSHIRB. 

Zoology. — This parish is favoured aoologically by having the 
for its boundary. on the one side, and Lochawe, one of the largest 
ef the Scottish lakes, on the other. Its hills are lofty enough to 
be the habitation of the snow-bunting {Emberiza nivali$)^ and the 
ptarmigan ( Tetrao Lagopus), and its woods warm enough to sheU 
ter the wren and the throstle {TurduBmuticus)^ The teal {Anas 
erecca)^ and the widgeon {A. Penelope)^ with the water-hen (Fulica 
ehloropua), and coot (F. atra and F* aterrima}f are found on its 
lakes ; and varieties of the gull {Lanu)^ and diver {Mergus)^ on 
its shores ; while Loehfyne, on the one side, supplies herrings^ 
and Lochawe, on the other, trout such as cannot be surpassed. 

It is not known that any rare species of animals are to be found 
in this parish. It is said that the wolf was, till a late period in the 
British history of that animal, an inhabitant of these houseless 
wilds, and that it was usual to fortify the roofs of the solitary huts 
and shealings against his depredations by wattlings of strong brush- 
wood. It is told that the last of them which was seen in this pa- 
rish followed in the track of a female who was crossing the coun* 
try from Lochawe to Lochfyneside. She was seen ascending the 
hill above Braveallaich with confidence, and, after passing through 
the moor, had almost obtained the road which leads to Inverary, at 
the mill of Craleckan, but was found close by it, on the Glassary 
side of the stream, a corpse. Her right arm was protected by an 
apron which she had rolled around it, and her hand grasped a knife 
which she had lodged deep in the heart of a wolf that lay dead 
beside her. It was supposed that when she discovered the animal 
on her track, she had Bed in the hope of reaching the houses that 
were nigh at hand ; but that being unable to escape, she had as- 
sumed the defensive in despair, and died terrified and exhausted 
by the effort which left her nothing to fear. 

*^ We have a considerable herd of the small zebu, or humped 
Indian cattle, both of the long and short-horned breeds. The 
crosses between these and Ayrshire or Highland cows have proved 
very hardy, and most remarkable for their disposition to fatten^ 
and also for the juiciness and flavour of the meat. One bullock 
weighed 960 lbs., but they are not often much above a-half or 
two-thirds of that weight, ^he crosses are so wild, that it is dif- 
ficult to do any thing witK them. We have also a few of the 
larger or Guzorat breed of humped cattle, and I got some years 
ago, a white buU*of the aboriginal Scotch breed, which, I under- 
stand, came from the Duke of AthoU's stock, and having selected 



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GLASSARY* 681 

white or dun Highland cows to breed with him, he has left many 
with the characters of the wild race. The^e, however, have not 
the whole ear black as the Hamilton, or red as the Chillingham 
cattle, but only edged with black hairs. 

*^ I tried two or three pairs of alpacas and llamas ; but the former 
died, and the latter met with accidents, and I gave them up. I 
do not think them suited to our climate, or likely to be profitable. 
Mr Stevenson at Oban had the llama for many years, and they 
did well with him ; but their fleece is not to be compared with 
that of the alpaca, which, I fear, is a much more tender animal, 
and which certainly has no more disposition to fatten than a goat.'^ - 

Fishes, — ^' Lobsters have lately been caught, and some lobster 
pots have been introduced from Guernsey and elsewhere. Pearls 
are often found in the oysters and mussels, but small and of no 
value. If the oysters and mussels could be protected, they might 
become valuable." 

Botany — Trees. — " The ash grows very fast when young, but 
the trees are apt to decline, or even canker and die, when twenty- 
five or thirty years old. The Scotch fir, too, often fails when it 
has become a large tree. The Balm of Gilead fir invariably does 
so. The silver fir succeeds better than any other tree ; but the 
larch and all hard-woods, except the ash in some cases, thrive 
well and grow rapidly. Larch may be removed and transplanted 
after ten years' growth, with a loss of no more than 1 in 100, and 
at an expense of about L.U, 10s. per acre."* 

We know of no rare plants found in this parish* Its hills are 
not sufficiently lofty for the habitats of the rarer alpine plants, and 
the plains do not afford a variety. The botanist may form an es« 
timate of what is generally met with, when it is stated that the 
heaths abound with Azalea procumbens^ Epilobium montanumj 
Tormeniilla officinalis^ Parnassia palustrisy Thymus Serpyllum, 
Empetrum nigrum^ Hypericum montanum^ &c.; the bogs with 
Pinguicula vulgaris^ Eriophorum vaginatum, SHrpiy Juncij &c. ; 
the sides of the rills with Saxifraga stellariSy Chrysosplenium altera 
nifoliumy Nasturtium officinale, &c. ; the lakes with Potamogeton 
natans, Nymphcea alba^ Nuphar lutea^ Ranunculus aquatilis, &c. ; 
the woods with Frimula vulgaris^ Lonicera Periclymenum^ JRibes 
alpinumy Allium ursinum, Oxalis acetosella, Prunus spinosa, Sw 
bus fruticosus, Geumurbanumy G. rivale, Trollius EuropcBUSi Ajuga 
reptans, Geranium phceum, Hypericum calycinum, &c, ; the gra- 
* Communication from Sir John Orde, Bart. 



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6^2 ARGYLRSHtRE. 

velly fields and shores with ErythrtBa ceniawriunif Eryngium 
timunif Staiice Armeriaf Arenaria pephide$y Sedum angUeuM^ &c. ; 
and the meadows with Lychnis dioica, L. Flo$ CueuU^ BmumouU, 
Caltha pabutris^ Centaurea nigra. Orchis maaiiatiL, 0« albida^ &e. 
The plague of the cultirated fields is ifarious. species of Rumex 
or dock^ which grow everywhere as if the seeds had beea sown 
with care* 

There are'plaDtations of oak, fir, Sec, of various extent, through- 
out the parish, though it cannot by any means be said to be wood- 
ed. On the estates of Camlodden ■ and Minafd, Kilmory and 
Auchandaroch, and with few exceptions throughout the whole 
district, they are well fenced, are kept clean, and thrive welL 
There is also a considerable portion of natural wood, as oak, hazel, 
birch, &c«, along Lochaweside. 

11. — Civil History. 

There is no written account of the history of the parish known 
to us, by which we can learn any thing of its ancient condi- 
tion. Neither are there documents, papers, or pictures known 
to be in the possession of any one^ illustrative of its past his* 
tory. Much must, therefore, be left to conjecture ; but ii is 
probable that the south-west portion of the parish must have 
been of importance, when the Scots held their seat of govern- 
ment in Argyleshire, and when the frequent feuds between the 
two branches of the regal family, living the one in Kintyre and 
the other in Lome, rendered this their pathway in their mutual 
incursions, and probably their battle-field.* 

In the eleventh, twelfth, and early portion of the thirteenth cen- 
tury, it is probable that the inhabitant-s of this district were kept 
in continual alarm by the near proximity of the Danes, who had 
possession of all the western coast, and had settled in great num- 
bers in the neighbouring parish of North Knapdale. The remains 
of ancient buildings, intended, as their form and sites evidently in- 
dicate, as watch-towers, built in order to convey the most rapid 
intelligence of the movements of any party on the coast to the in- 
ternal parts of the country, give countenance to this opinion. 
These are still three in number. One is called Tor a Bhlaraio, 
on the top of a hill called Bamafuar, near Kilmichael, and it 

* Early in the eighth century* a divuion was mode of lands lying between Lom« 
and Kintyre, whereby the portion of the King of Dal-niodh was separated firooi 
that of Xiurne. There is in this pariah a Una called Huadh-dalt contracted Ru-daL 
Can it be the limit of the part of Ruadh^ the Reuda of Bede, according to the above 
division? 



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GLA8SARY. 6S3 

commands a view of the hills of Knapdale, the coast, and Loch- 
Crinan. Another is called Tunnan, and is placed upon a rock 
called Creag na'n Tun in Glenaireidh, and within sight of Dun- 
chuaich, another watch-tower in the parish, and above the Castle 
of Inverary. The third is on Gortain Rainich, by the side of 
Locbglaissean, and it commands a view of thctwo former, being 
in the centre between them : The whole thus forming one line of 
communication, by which any tidings might be intimated from 
either district to the other. 

Tradition states that a great portion of the parish was in pos- 
session of the MacDonalds, and that the chief who held the sur- 
rounding district in subjection lived on Lochaweside. There is a 
ruin on the northern banks of that lake, called Fionn-chaim Castle, 
which is pointed out as the residence of Mac Mhic Jain. It stands 
upon a rock, which rises up from the waters of the lake on one 
side, and is all around steep and rugged, without a pathway, so that 
it is entered by climbing with some difficulty. It is a square 
building, of small dimensions, having an area in the centre, sur- 
rounded by what appears to have been rooms, or rather cells, one 
tier above another, and the uppermost of them roofed in by flags 
of a large size. 

Tradition says it was destroyed by fire, and the account given 
of its fall is illustrative of the times. Mac Mhio Jain was ac- 
knowledged by all around as the chief, and be demanded the 
services and submission which were supposed due to him in that 
capacity. The fair Una waft the daughter of a powerful vassal 
in the neighbourhood, who was about to give her in marriage to 
a youth who was worthy of, and who had won her heart. The 
marriage day was fixed, and only one bitterness was mixed in 
the cup of their ardent expectations. The chieftain, by cus- 
tom, possessed privileges which he exacted, but which God and 
nature teach to be the right of the husband alone. Una plead- 
ed and wept; her lover remonstrated with the chief to spare 
them the pain and disgrace ; but he was inexorable. The mar- 
riage party assembled; the knot was tied; and the supper was 
spread in the hall. Mac Mhic Jain had arrived, as was usual, to 
share in the feaat. One, however, was absent from the board, and 
he was the bridegroom. No sooner was he missed than ihe alarm 
was raised that Fionn-chairn Castle was on fire. The truth Bash- 
ed on the mind of the chief, and he rushed forth the first to have 
vengeance. This happened as the youth expected, who had avail- 



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684 AROYLESHIRE, 

ed himself of the prevailing mirth to go forth iinperoeifed to ap- 
ply the burning torch, and who was now hastening bacL Tie 
two met, not unwilling foes, in an intervening wood* The; foughl 
The chieftain fell, and Castle Fionn-chairn was not built again, 
nor the sway of the Mac Mhic Jain any more submitted to. 

The Knights of Lochawe in all probability obtained the influ- 
ence in this district which the MacDonalds had lost. For tbej 
lived at Ard*chonnail Castle, in the parish of Dalavich, and onlv 
a few miles distant. There is, however, no relation known to n 
of the time in which they became possessors of the land, tfaoogk 
the fact is certain that their clansmen were long, and till lately 
continued to be^ nearly the sole proprietors. 

Several powerful families of that race were resident in the pa- 
rish. Campbell of Achnabreck was only second to Argyle in the 
county. This family lived at Lochgair in a mansion of great size,— 
but which was cast to the ground when the property went to other 
hands. They held their baron bailie courts at Kiimicbail, then a 
populous village, and a place of considerable importance, not odIj 
in the parish but also in the county. The Campbells of Eiff- 
line also held large possessions in this parish- But now Kilmoiy 
alone remains to the descendants of the former, and Acbaoeilaia 
to those of the latter.* Among the old heritors also, were the 
Campbells of Kirnan, who appear by the records of the Pres* 
bytery of Inverary to have been, for one generation after another, 
supporters of the Reformation and elders in the Church. Their 
valued rent was L.d7, Is. nearly •ne-nineteenth of the whole. 
From them Thomas Campbell the poet vras descended. Ani ^ 
is said that it was in the old manse of Kiimicbail, after visiting 
the old house and garden of Kirnan, which are about a mile and a 
half distant in the valley of Glassary, that he wrote the beautiful 
lines, " On visiting a scene in Argyleshire." The two first stan- 
zas are descriptive of many such other places in this parish, to 
which^descendants may look with similar feelings.* 

* The Rev. Dugald Campbell, minister of Glassary, is this desceDdant 
•f At the silence of twilight's contemplative hour, 
I have mused in a sorrowful mood, 
On the wind-shaken weeds that embosom the Itower, 
Where the home of my forefathers stood. 
Ail ruined and wild is their roofless abode. 
And lonely the dark ravcn^ sheltering tree ; 
And traveird by few is the grass- covered road, 
Where the hunter of deer and the warrior trode. 
To his hills that encircle the sea* 



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GLASSARY. 685 

A century ago the number of heritors m this parish was twenty^ 
of whom thirteen were Campbells and three were MacLach lanes* 
There was one MacKellar, one Lamont/ one MacTavishi and 
one MacCallum. Now there are fourteen heritors, seven of whom 
are Campbells. There is neither a MacLachlane, a MacKellar, 
nor a MacTavish among them, and the descendants of MacCal* 
lum having assumed the name of Malcolm, their heir is now the 
principal heritor, manifesting their hereditary enterprise, judg* 
ment, and prudence. 

The ancient ecclesiastical condition of this parish is made 
known to the present generation, only by the ruins of chapels or 
churches scattered over it. There are Kilbride in the west-end, 
Killevin, near Crarae on Lochfyneside, and Kilmory near Loch- 
gilphead. There is also a fine ruin of a church, with an oratory 
close by it, at Kil-neuair on Lochaweside. This seems to have 
been an important station, as is indicated by the beauty of the 
workmanship and the traditions connected with the church. The 
date of the building cannot be given ; but it is related that, as in 
building the temple in Jerusalem, so in the erection of this church, 
— not a hammer was laid on a stone at the site of it ; that the 
stones were found in and dressed at a quarry close to Killevin, on 
Lochfyneside ; that on a particular day duly appointed, people at- 
tended in such numbers as to form one close rank from Killevin 
to Kil-neuair,^ a distance of twelve miles, and that each stone, as 
raised at the quarry or hewing station, was handed from one mart 
to another along the whole rank until it was fixed by the last of 
them in its place in the building. 

This church was held in superstitious veneration long after it 
ceased to be used as a place of worship, and it was imagined that 
the spirits, either of the saints or of the dead unemancipaled from 
jiurgatory, haunted its walls.* A village once was ranged round 

Yet wandering, 1 found on my ruinous walk, 

By the dial-stone aged and green, 

One rose of the wilderness left on its 8talk« 

To mark where a garden bad been. 

Like a brotberless hermit, the last of its race, 

All wild in the silence of nature, it drew 

From each wand«ring sun-beam, a lonely embrace ; 

For the night-weed and thorn overshadowed the place 

Where the flower of my forefathers grew. 

Sweet bud of the wilderness ! emblem of all 
That remains in this desolate heart ! 
&c. &c« 

* It is of this church that a story is told, to which wc have often listened with 
wonder and awe in childhood, and which has obtained a wide circulation. The tra- 



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686 ABGYLE8H1RE. 

it, and it was tbe station in which a market called A'margadh 
Dhu was, held ; but now the ruin3 stand alone bj the side of' a 
road which fewiravellers frequent 

** The foundations* of the old chapel or cell at KSnoorj were 
visible till within the last few yeaa^ and I still possess a stone 
which has formed part of a yery handsome moulding, probably 
that of the door ari^rave, I have been told, that, according to 
tradition^ Kilmory and Kildusclan, which is on the o{qx>8ite side 
of Lochgilp, were served by one priest. 

** The precincts of the Kilmory chapel are still used by the 
country people as a burying ground ; the most rigid Presbyterians 
having a most uncalvinistic prejudice in favour of the old papisti- 
cally consecrated ground. 

^* When the Parliamentary church wae built at Lochgilphead, 
it was wished that people should be buried in the ground round 
it, but it was many years before any one could be induced to pa- 
tronise it A vagrant having been found dead in the neighbour- 
hood, it was proposed to break the charm by interring him there ; 
but even the authors of tbe proposition relented before it was ac- 
tually carried into execution, saying it was too bard to put him 
there, because he had no relations. 

<* Somyehow or other a beginning haa since been made, and 
many are now buried round their place of worship. 

^^ A very neat monument,, an obelisk of Ardantallin stone, is 
there erected to the memory of their first pastor, the late Mr 
M^Kichan, a man universally beloved and regretted by his flock." 

HeriUjTi. — Tbe resident heritors in the parish are four, and 
all of them living in commodious mansions. The principal of 
these b Kilmory. '^ It isf said to have been a maosion-bouae 
for 500 years ; but, in those days, this distinction was more easy 

•ditionary tale is, that a tailor who was sceptical on the subject of apparitions, ventu^ 
ed to hiet that he would make a pair of trews, (the dress of the time,) within the 
walls of the church during the midnight houriL He went with his torch braTdj to 
redeem his pledge ; but he had not bewn much when a sepulchral voice directed hia 
attention to a hand of gigantic sise arising from some of the graves in the ares oi the 
church, and he heard Uie words, *' Am fiiic tliu a chrdg mhor Uath so a thaiUeir ?** 
<Seest thou this huge hoary hand, tailor ?) ** Vh\ mi sin Isfuaighidh mi so, thubhairt 
an taiUair.** (I see that, but will sew this, said the tailor.) The voiee «gain utter- 
ed, ** Am faic thu an ceann mor liath so a thailleir ?** (Seest thou this large grey 
head, tailor ?) ** Chi mi sin *s fuaighidh mi so thubhairt an taillair,** (I see that, 
but will sew this, said the tailor.) Thus the conversation proceeded until all the 
members of the skeleton appeared. Then the tailor fled ; and it was time^ for the 
bony hand that was stretched out to seise him, struck and left its impr es s i on on the 
walL 

* Communication by Sir John Orde, Bart. 

flbid. 



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OLASSABT. 687 

of attainment It was thatched within the memory of naan^ aod» 
when I &r8l knew it, the corner stone of the oldest part, project- 
ing considerably from the wall, had a hollow in the top for grind* 
ing or pounding barley in. This I was unwillingly obliged to 
blast away, as it projected considerably into the new addition. 
Peter Campbell, Esq., the late proprietor, added to it in 1816 or 
1^20. Since 1828, when I came into the possession of it, fur-» 
ther additions hare been from time to time made to it, and the 
old part is incorporated, so as not to be distinguished from the 
new. 

** The principal feature of the house is a large octagon tower 
of blue stone ashler, which forms the south-west angle, contain- 
ing a dining* room 15 feet high, and an octagon drawing-room, 
21 feet high, and having, besides, three windows at the usual 
height, a wiiidow in each of the eight sides. These rooms 
are 29 feet in diameter. An anteroom, about 12 feet square, 
connects the octagon with another, the Chinese drawing- room^ 
which is 57 feet long by 27 wide, and 16 higkr This room ex- 
tends oyer the entrance-hall and the kitdien, between which is an 
archway or covered entrance, 40 feet toog by 15 wide, which ad- 
mits a carriage and four to drive into it. It is closed by sliding 
gates at either side, and is a perfect protection in this stormy cli- 
mate. The principal staixcase, which is much admired, is circu- 
lar, with the steps all alike, while the walls are octagon, and it is 
%hted by a circular sky-light* A great portion of the house is 
flat roofed, covered with lead, and surmounted by a flagstaff 48 
feet high. Most of the house is built of the blue flag found on 
the property, either rough or hewn ; but most of the chimney cor- 
nieee and copes are freestone, from the Garscube and other quar- 
ry*. The floors in the public rooms are of polished oak, as are 
also the doors, and in some cases the wainscoting. The furni- 
ture of these rooms is all antique, and a good deal of it was taken 
from the Palace of Belew, in Portugal. The damask coverings 
and the paper-hangings were manufactured expressly for us in 
China. 

*' The view from the tower is most picturesque, extending from 
Ben-ghoil, in Arran, to the mountains of Mull, and commanding 
a great part of Lochfyne, vnth the opposite hills of Cowal." 
III. — Population. 

The oldest account which we have of the population of this 
parish is dated in 1755, when the number of souls in it was 



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6S8 ARGYLBSHIUR. 

2751. In 1792, it had diminished to 256& In 183l, it had 
increased to 4054, and, in 1841, to 5369. The number (in 
1841) residing in the original parish of Glassary, was, males, 
1355, and females, 1295; total, 2680. Families, 504. At- 
tached to the Government church of Lochgilphead, were, males, 
1345, females, 1394 ; total, 2739* Families, 562. Making in all, 
males, 2690, females, 2689 ; total, 5369. Families, )066. 

The increase in the population shown by the abore returns has 
taken place entirely in the village of Lochgilphead, which has in- 
creased rapidly within the last thirty years, and is still increasing. 
The rural population, there is reason to believe, has been dimi- 
nishing rather than increasing, as not only have emigration and the 
enlargement of farms so operated, in this as in other parts of the 
Highlands ; but the principal proprietor has taken upon himself 
the management of a great portion of his lands, placing workmen 
and managers in them instead of tenants and cottars ; an experi- 
ment which may require to be watched, lest it give rise to a 
population which may eventually be as poor, and not more easily 
maintained or more beneficial to the community, than that I 

which has beep dispensed with. The cottar and the crofter 
systems are liable to much abuse, and where unrestrained must 
ever bring down the character of the peasantry to the low- 
est level; but it is difficult for the farmer to carry on work 
where he can find no extra labourer of whose aid he can avail 
himself at a busy season ; and it might therefore conduce to the 
interests of all, if the building of a cottage or the allotment of a 
piece of ground to a poor man were carefully considered rather 
than altogether prevented. 

Very often the cottars who leave the rural districts here take 
up their abode in the village* 

The average* number of baptisms registered annually in Glas- 
sary for the three years ending January 1844, was 103; and of 
marriages for the same period, 26 annually. It is believed that 
these returns are not strictly accordant with the actual number, ^ 

especially of births, because there is an impression that the regis- 
ters are purely ecclesiastical documents, kept by order of the ec- 
clesiastical and not of. the civil authorities, — and that if the offi* 
ciating ministers insist not upon it, the interests of the parties do 
not render the expense necessary* 



* Return maHe by Mr John Campbell, teacher and session -clerk. 



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GLASSAllY. 689 

The number* of proprietors having a rental above L.2000, 
is one; having above L. 1000, and not L. 2000, two; hav- 
ing above L.dOO, and not L.IOOO, four ; having above L.lOO, and 
not L.5OO9 six. In Lochgilphead, again, the number of proprie- 
tors having an annual income from houses of L.100 and upwards, 
is three; from L.50 to LflOO, three; from L,20 to L.50, nine- 
teen; from L.10 to L.20, thirty-two; under L.IO, twelve. 

There are several persons in the parish, of independent though 
not of large means. 

The style of house-building in Lochgilphead has been greatly 
improved of late, but this is principally owing to the proprietor, 
Alexander Campbell, Esq. of Achandaroch, who will not now give 
feu or lease unless the plans are submitted to his own approval. 

Illicit distillation scarcely exists in this parish ; at least it is 
not brought to light. 

The character of the people varies in different districts of the 
parish, which are so far separated that they have not much inter- 
course together. Along the banks of Lochfyne,' they are an ac- 
tive hardy race, of fishermen principally, who are capable of en- 
during much wet and cold ; but more rude than the inhabitants of 
the less frequented Lochaweside. 

We-f" have ever been led to question the benefit of herring- 
fishing, as carried on in Lochfyne, to the community either in a 
moral or economical point of view, by observing its effects upon 
the habits of the people that pursue it Habits of excitement are 
not favourable to the mind or body, and unfit men for the steady 
and common avocations of life. ** The almost universal]; con- 
nection between herring-fishing and whisky-drinking makes it ra» 
ther a curse than a boon to the people, and the pursuit is so un- 
certain, and partakes so much of the nature of gambling, that it 
is believed, in most instances, the money is not more * hardly got' 
than * lightly gone.' " 

The Gaelic language is generally spoken, but is gradually dis- 
appearing. Upon the whole, the people may be said to enjoy, in 
a reasonable degree, the comforts and advantages of society, — 
though truth requires it to be said, that more self-respect and 
more brotherly love would greatly elevate them above their present 
condition. 

* According to the assessment made for roads in March 1844, and returned bjr 
Mr George MacCombie. 
•f- See MS. of Statistical Account of Inverary. 
:^ Communication by Sir John Orde, Bart. 
ARGYLB. X X 



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690 ARGYLESHIRB. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — The parish has not been so surveyed that the num- 
ber of acres cultivated and uncultivated can be stated. Much, 
however, remains waste that might be profitably improved for oc- 
casional tillage or permanent pasture. There are several proper- 
ties on which great improvements have been made, and conse- 
quently the rate of rent per acre varies exceedingly. Generally 
speaking, the rent may be considered to range from L.8 to L.5 
for a cow, and from 2s. 4d. to Ss. 6d. for a sheep, for a year, ac- 
cording to the quality of the soil and local circumstances* 

The close or furrow draining system is that which is ordinarily 
pursued in reclaiming or improving the land. Drill husbandry is 
usually practised, and leases are generally from year to year^ 
though there are several exceptions to this. The farm-buildings 
are generally of an inferior description, and there is a great want 
of enclosures, though much has been done in these respects also, 
or is now being done by Alexander Campbell, Esq. of Achan- 
daroch, N. Malcolm, Esq. of Poltalloch, Sir John Orde, Bart. 
Kilmory, William Campbell, Esq. of Ederline, and Colonel 
MacNiell of Achnaba, on their respective properties. 

^^|The breed of cattle generally raised is the Argyleshire or West 
Highland, and of sheep, the black-faced. There is at Kilmory 
a considerable* flock of South Down sheep, which do well on 
the low grounds, and make excellent winter mutton. They are 
much more hardy than the Leicesters, and make also a good cross 
with the black* faced. An Agricultural and an Horticultural So- 
ciety have been established here in connection with the parishes 
of Kilmartin, Craignish, and North and South Knapdale. They 
have been* very successful, and there has been considerable im- 
provement in the cattle and sheep. That of horses is more ques- 
tionable, and any great improvement of them is out of the ques- 
tion till we have, or will use, improved means of keeping them. 
Some years ago I brought a large stallion ass, near 15 hands high, 
from Malta, and have several good mules, which do very well, and 
some superior half-bred asses from him.'* 

While some progress is thus making, and some facilities for im- 
provement given, the want of capital is felt by many of the tenan- 
try, and must be considered as the principal obstacle to improve- 
ment in this as probably in every other country. The Highland 
farmer is not without enterprise, neither is he always indolent ; hut 

• Communication from Sir J. Orde. 



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GLASS ART. 



691 



the generally short leases are not calculated to awaken confi- 
dence ; the frequently mean accommodation for the families in- 
creases, if it engenders not slovenly habits ; defective fences, which 
expose expensively raised crops to the nightly depredations of 
cattle, discourage, if they do not disgust him ; and insuflBcient 
oEBce-houses, giving neither security to the crop nor comfort to 
the stock, leave him little in a climate changeable beyond calcula* 
tion, that he can rejoice in as the fruits of his labours. 

It must also be said, that too much is often expected of the 
farmer in this quarter. It appears that, so far back as 1792,* the 
tenants paid seven and a half per cent for money expended in im- 
provements ; and it is understood that, on some properties at least, 
they do so still. The proprietor has a right to expect that the 
possessors of his lands shall render them better rather than worse, 
going on with the spirit of the times ; but he has not a right to 
expect that that class of men who have no permanent interest in 
the lands shall improve them for his perpetual benefit. Reason, 
religion, and justice, teach that he who is able and rich, and whose 
property receives the advantage, should make some sacrifice for 
the benefit of the tenant, rather than that the resources of the 
latter should be exhausted to penury in increasing his stores. The 
slightest consideration shows that the advancement of money at 
seven and a half per cent., if legal, is, to say the least, an exaction 
which is intolerable; for at this rate, on an eighteen years' lease, 
the proprietor who advances L.100 receives, first, compound in- 
terest at five per cent, for his money ; he then receives his whole 
capital advanced, and somewhat more ; and he lastly receives his 
farm improved to his hands for nothing. Or, in other words, the 
farmer gives him five per cent, for his money, pays it to him all 
back, and improves his land for him, — conferring every obligation, 
and receiving nothing. 

Fuheries. — The principal fishery in Lochfyne is that of her- 
rings, and it is carried on with varying success. Much may pro- 
bably be yet done in advancing the knowledge, facilitating the 
labours, diminishing the casual losses, and improving the condition, 
pecuniary and moral, of the fishermen. As it is, some advances 
are making. Their boats are becoming larger and better; and 
the Ayrshire fishermen have brought in a good style of skiff, with 
a single lug-sail. A few years ago they were all wherry or schooner- 
rigged. They change the colour of the paint frequently, the men 

* Last Statistical Account. 



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692 ARGYLESHIRE. 

of 0D6 place generally painting alike. All of them have abandoned 
bark for tanning their nets, and use catechu. It is worthy of 
notice, that, a few years ago, a train of 50 or 60 nets was consi- 
dered long ; now they often have trains of 800 nets. The number 
of boats employed in this parish '^ in the herring fishing, and in 
the cod and ling fishing, is 108, manned by 326 men and boys; 
167 persons are employed in gutting, packing, &c.; and there are 
7 coopers and 4 curers.V* 

Manvfachires. — The only branches of manufacture carried on 
are, a distillery at Lochgilphead, which makes about 19,000 gal- 
lonsf of whisky, quarterly ; and a powder-mill, erected lately on the 
confines of the parish, adjoining In?erary, but of which the returns 
are not known. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market'Town. — Lochgilphead is the principal, indeed the only 
market-town in the parish, as Kilmichael, though once populous 
cannot now be called a village. The trade of Lochgilphead de- 
pends entirely on the surrounding district, and it has great fecili- 
ties alike for its imports and exports by steam-boats, which daily 
arrive at and depart from Ardrisaig, which is nearly two miles dis- 
tant, and the sea-port of this town, though in the parish of South 
Knapdale. The benefit conferred on this country by^ steam navi«- 
gation is indeed incalculable, and only in the course of being de* 
veloped. From Lochgilphead, the traveller may go southward to 
Glasgow ; north, to Mull or Inverness by the Crinan Canal, which 
forms part of the boundary of this parish, on the south-west, at 
some points ; or to Inverary, up Lochfyne, by steam-boats ; and 
they convey sheep and cattle to market at a small expense of time, 
labour, and money. There are daily posts to Inverary, Glasgow, 
and Campbelton, and three times a-week to Kilmartin. 

The means of communication are extending and improving in 
every respect. There are no turnpikes, and the roads are both 
made and repaired by assessment within the county ; yet they are 
very good, and 21 miles in length. They also require to be much 
more extended, in order that the north portion of the parish may 
have easier access to market, &c. There are now several roads 
which scarcely deserve that name, also maintained at the public 
expense, over and above that mentioned above, t. f. one through 
the valley of Glassary, another across the moor from the ford to 

* Return by Mr Sutherland, Fishery Officer, Ardrisaig. 

f Stated on the authority of Mr Borthwick, Superrisor of Excise. 



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OLASSARY. 



698 



Inverary, and a third from Bravealaicb to Inverary. The 6ne 
road along the banks of Lochawe, extending from Eritinn, in the 
parish of Dalavich, to Fionchairn, in this parish, eight miles, was 
completed last year at an expense of L.1500 ; and, it is under- 
.stood, was offered gratuitously to the road- trustees by the pro- 
prietor of the lands in that district.* 

^* The bridgesf are not remarkable, but they are in good order, 
and that over the Ad, having four arches, is the largest. Not- 
withstanding that it has been enlarged and repaired at different 
times, it is still very narrow, steep, inconvenient, and almost dan- 
gerous. A new bridge lower down would require a mile of new 
road ; but would shorten the distance to Kilmartin considerably, 
and ought to be built. .One of the swing bridges over the Crinan 
Canal, that at Carn-ban, is in this parish ; but none of them is quite 
trustworthy, and when vessels are passing there is a long deten- 
tion. 

'^ Of harbours there are Lochgilp, which has good anchorage, 
but not much shelter from the south : the two bays of Silver- 
craigs, in one or other of which boats find shelter except from the 
south : Lochgair and Minard Bays ; these are in the state of na- 
ture, but there is a small pier built by the road trustees at North 
Ottar Ferry, and I have a small pier for my own use below the 
house, with a causeway or * hard,' 300 yards long down to the 
lowest low water mark. I have also rather a larger pier at the 
village for the accommodation of herring wherries, coal smacks, 
&C. from whom I take a small toll. These are only accessible at 
high water. The tide rises here from 8 to 10 feet. The high 
water at full moon and change is at about 12 o'clock in Lochgilp." 

JEcelesiastical State, — Neither this parish nor any other in this 
county has the ecclesiastical advantages of church accommodation 
and frequent ministerial services possessed in papistical times be- 
fore the B.eformation. The destitution of this and other portions 
of the Highlands arose rather from circumstances than from ne- 
glect, and has been perpetuated by custom or untoward events. 
During the early period of the Reformation, no good result would 
be considered to arise from the multiplication of places of worship^ 
as the paucity of ministers was such, that the people were seldom 
called together for worship. There were only a few ministers 
scattered over the extensive bounds now constituting the two 



• Niel Malcolm, Esq. Poltalloch. 
•f Communication by Sir John Orde, Baru 



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694 ABOYL£dHIRE« 

Synods of Argyle and Glenelg, the two being then comprehended 
tinder the name of the Synod of Argyle ; and much of the business 
of the members constituting their meetings consisted in hearing 
appUcations from destitute parishes for the means of grace, and in 
appointing supplies, which were necessarily few and inadequate. 
From 1638 to 1660, notwithstanding the troubles of the times, 
the extension of the church attracted the attention of the minis* 
ters and of the Marquis of Argyle, that stedfast friend of Scotland 
and its church, whose patriotic acts and efforts are exhibited not 
more in the annals of the country than in the more obscure re- 
cords of our synods, our presbyteries, and our kirk-sessions. In 
1650 and 1651, a private commission of Parliament, of which be 
was the chairman, was appointed for the plantation of kirks within 
the province of Argyle, whose acts, in dividing the united parishes 
and constituting them into separate parishes, anticipated what it 
is now the warmest wish of the friends of the Church of Soot- 
land to see accomplished. This parish was also under their con- 
sideration, and there is now among the MS. papers of the Synod 
of Argyle,* an act extracted under the hand of John Zuill, clerk 
to the G)mmission, dated 17th October 1650, continuing the 
summons raised before them for the planting, dividing, and dis. 
membering of ** Kilmichael and Glassary," having on the back of 
it the execution of its due intimation. The events which occur- 
red soon after this prevented the accomplishment of the objecl 
contemplated in these proceedings. After the restoration of Pres- 
bytery, in 1690, the ministers and elders of the Synod of Argyle, 
with the concurrence of the General Assembly, applied to the 
Commission of Parliament for plantation of kirks and valuation of 
teinds for an order on their clerk to give extractsf of the ** haili 
decreets.'' In the same year, dated 4th August, the Synod of 
Argyle received a letter from Sir Duncan Campbell of Achna- 
breck, proposing:^ the convenience of planting 1i church at Locfa- 
gair, where he designs the residence of his family, and promising 
for the advancement thereof to dedicate the tithes that be hath 
about that place for the use foresaid, as a part of the stipend of 
the minister to be there, and offering himself ready to build a 
church fit for the place upon his own expenses/' And the Synod 

* These MSS., among the papers of the Synod of Argyle, were found in Darleitb 
with Mary Crawfurd, relict to the deceased Alexander Zuill of Darieith.— ^ynod 
Records, Vol. ii. p. 97. 

i" MSS. among the papers of the Synod. 

::: Records of Synod, dated 6tb August 1690, Sesa. 10, VoLii. p. IJS. 

a 



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GLASSARY. 695 

answer that they have '< appointed the Presbytery of Argyle, after 
they Iiave considered the decreets of plantation for disuniting the 
said parish of Kilmichael from the lands about Lochgair, to ob* 
serve what rectification these new erections would require, in or- 
der to the erecting and planting of the said new church, and this 
with concurrence of the said Sir Duncan Campbell and other 
gentlemen in the parish." 

In 1696, the Synod, ^* considering they now have in their cus- 
tody the principal minutes of the decreets of plantation," recom*' 
mend means to petition the Lords of Commission and Plantation 
to sustain and approve these ; which petition they seem to have 
formally made at a later period.* In 1697, the people of Glass- 
ary petitioned the Synod to recommend-f* to the Lords of Planta- 
tion to make the decreet of plantation, passed in the year 1650, 
eflfectual ; by which decreet the parish of Olassary, as it now 
stands, was divided into three distinct charges, viz. the parish of 
Kilineuair, parish of Lochgair, and the new parish of Kilmichael; 
and the Synod unanimously concurred in the prayer of the petition^ 
and agreed to recommend accordingly. It thus appears that pro- 
vision was made for improving the ecclesiastical condition of this 
parish ; and, in 1 707, the ninth act of the Parliament of Scotland, 
held in that year anent plantation of kirks and valuation of teinds, 
enacted, that any authentic extracts from the records and other 
proceedings of former commissions, brought in and presented to 
their Lordships, should be recorded in a particular register, and 
be reputed as valid and authentic as if the principal warrants 
themselves were extant. Yet, for reasons unknown to us, the pa- 
rish of Glassary was not divided. 

In 1828 a Government church was erected in a corner of the 
parish where the village of Lochgilphead had arisen ; and in 184L 
a church was built by the Committee of the General Assembly 
for church extension, aided by the Duke of Argyle and Sir Ar« 
chibald Campbell, Bart at Camlodden, for the benefit of that 
portion of the parish, and the adjoining district of the parish of 
Inverary, wherein a probationer officiated for some time. The pa- 
rish church is well situated for the district in which it is placed, 
but is too large. It was built in 1827, was struck by lightning, 
and much injured in the winter of 1829-^0, and was afterwards well 
repaired and improved. The Government churcti at Lochgilp- 

* MSS. among the papera of the Synod. 

t Reoords of the Synod of Argyle, Vol. il p. 287. . . 



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696 ARGYLESHIRE. 

head is seated for 480, haviag one-third of the seats free ; and the 
new erection at Camlodden for 300, the seats being all free. The 
Committee of the General Assembly on the royal bounty em- 
ployed a missionary, who preached alternately at Lochaweside and 
Lochfyneside in this parish ; but at present the mission and the 
new erection at Camlodden are vacant The manse of Glassarj 
was built in 1841, and cost L.1200. 

The glebe is very good, consisting of more than twelve acres, 
situated close to*the church and manse, descending from them by 
a gentle declivity to the river Ad, which forms the boundary. In 
1691, when a minister had been settled in it, in connection with 
restored Presbytery, the following minute is in a separate register 
of the Presbytery of Inverary ; and records the history of this and 
many other glebes. 

** According to the appointment of the last Presbytery, the he- 
ritors in Kilmichael in Glassary have taken the following method 
in settling the minister's manse, yard and glebe, viz. they have 
stented themselves in 800 merks, the half thereof to be paid at 
Candlemas next, and the other half at Whitsunday thereafter, to 
Mr Daniel Campbell. Of the which 800 merks, 300 to be given 
to Achaobreck, (Sir Duncan Campbell) for the stance of the 
manse and yard ; and the same Sir Duncan Campbell hath se- 
questrate the piece of ground called Gortain na Kirk, for the 
stance of said house and yard ; the other 500 is allowed for Mr 
Daniel Campbell for building the manse. And in regard the pa- 
rish, by reason of the late troubles and vastations, is not put in ca- 
pacity to buy a sufficient glebe, they have therefore stented 
themselves in fourtie pounds each merk land to be paid yearly into 
the small books to the said Mr Daniel Campbell, in lieu of his 
glebe, aye and until they be able to buy the same, the which 
money so payable out of the parish, the said Mr Daniel is to pay 
to Achanbreck yearly for the acre of old called John Damsone's 
acre, adjoining to his yard and house, betwixt the east end of the 
church and the water, the which acre the foresaid heritors have 
obliged themselves to buy within four years of the date of their 
putt to be a glebe to their minister* Of the which acre Achan- 
breck lately granted a tack to the said Mr Daniel, and put him in 
actual possession thereof, aye and until the parish buy the same 
by paying the rent thereof as aforesaid." 

The ministers of Kilmichael* Glassary, were Mr Daniel Camp- 

• This and the preceding extract were supplied to me by the Rev. Duncan Camp- 
bell, clerk of Presbytery. 



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QLASSARY. 697 

bell,* admitted od the 1st day of December 1691, and died 28th 
March 1722. Mr Robert Fullerton, admitted 5th of July 1727, 
and died 20th July 1762. Mr Peter Campbell, admitted 26th 
July 1764, and died day of February 1779. Mr Dugald 
Campbell, admitted on the 2dth September 1779, and died 5th 
December 1826. Mr Dugald Campbell, the present incumbent, 
who is now also patron of the parish, was admitted September 9, 
1830. 

There is' an Independent meeting-house in Lochgilphead of se- 
veral years' standing. Another was erected by the new secession in 
1848. A minister of the Scotch Episcopal Church officiated 
here for some time, but he left it at Whitsunday last 

At present it is impossible to state with any accuracy the num- 
bers who attend the various churches ; but a vast majority of the 
communicants belong to the Established Church, and in the re- 
mote portions of the parish, it is understood that there are few 
Dissenters, if any. 

Education.'^The schools of this parish are not in a prosperous 
condition. The parochial salary is divided, and consequently there 
h one teacher, who, though appointed to a school, can neither ob- 
tain school room nor house at the station which was assigned to 
him, and is living at Lochgilphead doing no parochial duty. There 
are several private schools, none of which can be held as worthy 
of much approval,! and there are several stations to which teachers 
might be profitably appointed. There is also a charity school. 
<< We employ I a female teacher ourselves for a girls' school in 
the village of Lochgilphead, where, besides reading, writing, &c 
they learn needle-work and the like. They used to be twenty-five, 
but we are increasing the number. It has, I hope, already done 
good, more particularly as to work, and improvement in their man- 
ner and habitSL" 

In the Camlodden district there is a school supported by the 
General Assembly with a salary of L.25 per annum, exclusive of 
the accommodations jo{ house, garden, and a cow's grass, given by 
Sir Archibald Campbell, Bart the proprietor, and it is no more 

* He was the author of several excellent works on doctrinal and practical theo- 

f It is due to the proprietor of Lochgilphead, Alexander Campbell, Esq. of Ach- 
andaroch, to say, that he has shown the most laudable earnestness for the advance- 
ment of education, that he gives a school-house and school-room, rent free, to the 
principal teacher, and that it is considered to be owing to the rejection of a most li- 
beral proposal on his part by the villagers, that Lochgilphead is not provided with a 
very qualified teacher. 

X Communication by Sir John P. Orde, Bart, 



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698 ARGYLBSHlttE. 

than justice to its teacher* to say that it is judiciously and success- 
fully conducted. The respect of the people for the advantages of 
education varies in different portions of the parishi as it must ever 
vary according to the sufficiency or insufficiency of the means of 
instpuction. This, like all things else, is measured by some stan* 
dard ; and in those districts, where there is no person of superior 
attainments with whom they can compare themselves, they cannot 
be much alive to the benefits of education. The qualifications of 
the teacher are generally the measure of the ambition of the 
young ; as they generally are also of the attainments of the old ; 
and few arguments can be adduced for the necessity of well-in* 
structed teachers stronger than the fact, that, whether owing to a 
desire on their part to communicate what has cost them much to 
acquire, or to a wish on the part of the pupils to imitate and equal 
them whom they respect or admire, or to both combined, there 
are in every welUpeopled district children found who are, or soon 
become, willing to learn whatever branch the master can teach. 

Some years ago a reading-room was set up, but it did not 
flourish. 

There are two branch-banks, and a savings bank which has 
done much good. 

Charitable Institutions. — We know of none such in the parish; 
but last winter a clothing society, chiefly supported by ladies, and 
conducted by Mrs Campbell of Achandaroch at great personal 
trouble and considerable personal expense, did much good, and 
contributed largely to the comforts of the poor.f 

Poor and Parochial JFufub.— -The poor are relieved partly by 
collections at the church doors and partly by voluntary contribu- 
tions on the part of the heritors. The sums collected at the 
church of Kilkmichael and at Camlodden are inconsiderable, and 
given in these localities to such poor as are able partially to sup* 
port themselves.| The sum collected at the church of Lochgilp- 
head for the benefit of the poor, during the last year, was L.10d, 
lOs. 0^d.§ These sums collectively do not meet the neces- 
sities of the poor, and instead of an assessment, the heritors, 
for various reasons, prefer contributing to this purpose in pro- 
portion to their valued rents, — a mode to which all of them have 
agreed except one, and he undertakes to relieve all the poor on 

Mr Morrison. 

Stated oo the authority of the Rev. D. Jackson, late minister of Loobgilpbead. 
Stated on the authority of John Hunter, Esq. surgeon, Lochgilphead, who dis- 
tributes the contributions of the heritors. 
§ On the authority of the Rev. D. Jaekson. 



li 



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GLASS ART. 699 

his own property. Thus relief is given to all who are not provided 
for out of the church door collections. The amount contributed 
is L. 150 yearly, and the number of poor thus relieved are 52. 

iFVit>5.— There are four fairs held annually in the parish. In 
May there is a cattle fair at Kilmichael, and another on the next 
day at Lochgilphead. In October the same take place ; and, in 
both May and October, these and the Inverary markets at the 
same periods are so regulated that the cattle not sold at either of 
the former may be driven to the latter. These fairs are not cor- 
rectly inserted in the almanacks. 

Inns and Alehouses. — The number* of these in the parish is SO, 
of which 23 are in the village of Lochgilphead. About 1400 
gallons of ,whisky are sold in them quarterly; or about 5600 
gallons yearly. The number of licensed houses is mischie* 
vously great, and it is a most difficult matter to diminish them* 
For though the justices are not unwilling to make abstract regu- 
lations, yet, when it is a question whether they ought to be en- 
forced in any particular instance, difficulties in some way occur 
and exceptions are made. There is, however, an improvement ; 
for, some years age, when all the houses in Lochgilphead were 
only 90, 32 or 34 of them were licensed to sell spirits, &c., while 
DOW, though more houses have been built, the number licensed is 
only 23. This is still too great a proportion ; and it is, moreover, 
feared that the number selling without license is considerable. 
Probably nine-tenths of the criminal business here has its origin 
in whisky. 

Miscellaneous Obsbrvatioi^s. 

The valued rent of the parish, according to which the land-tax, 
minister's stipend, &c. were imposed, was made in the year 1751, 
and was then half the real rent after deducting all public burdens. 
It was then L.71 1, 19s. Id.f In 1793t the real rent was L.5700. 
It is now L.8002, 1 Is. 7d. ;§ and the rent of houses in Lochgilp- 
head is L1698, 19s., making together a gross rental of L.970iy 
10s. 7d. 

In 1793,11 a male servant fed by his employer had from L. 5, 15s, 
to L.6, 6s. yearly ; now he has from L.10, 10s. to L.12, 12s. Then 

* Stated OD the authority of Mr Borthwick, Supervisor of Excise, Lochgilphead, 
t Dr Smith's Agricultural Survey of Argylesbire. 
X 'Hie forioer Statistical Account 

5 Return by Mr MacCombie, Lochgilphead, of the amount of rental of Glassary, 
as assessed under the Road Act in March 1844. 
I) The former Statistical Account. 



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700 ARGYLBSHIRE. 

a female servant had from L.8toL.d, ]0s. yearly, and now from L.5, 
10s. to L.6, 10s. Then a married workman, with house, garden, 
peats, two cows' grass, and potatoe-land, had L.1 of money; now 
he gets from L.7 to L.8. Common labourers had from Is. 2d. to 
Is. 4d., and tradesmen from 2s. to 28. 4d. per day ; now the for- 
mer have from Is. 6d. to 2s., and the latter from 2s. 6d. to ds. 
6d. per day. 

The improvements of which the parish is susceptible cannot be 
here stated, even in the most general way. Much of it is in a state 
of nature, and requires draining, enclosing, &c. The cottages 
are often deficient in every comfort, and farm-houses and stead- 
ings ill constructed and difficult to maintain. Lochgilp ought to 
be dredged, so as to permit steam-boats and other vessels of bur- 
den to go to the village. These and other improvements may 
safely be entrusted to the self-interest of parties. There is a re- 
markable bank, formed of sand and debris from the hills on each 
side of Lochfyne at Ottar. This bank, with the other depositions by 
which the bed of Lochfyne must necessarily be raised in its level from 
year to year, by the disintegration of rocks, the carrying away of 
banks, &c., may possibly effect great changes upon the character of 
the loch above Ottar on some future day, by obstructing the ingress 
of the tide, and converting that upper portion into a fresh water 
lake with its river entering the sea ; and would it not be worthy 
of the heritors to take some measure of making such observations 
on each side of the Ottar, as may be necessary to ascertain the 
rate of increase of this bank, if any ; whether there be a tendency 
to the formation of a similar bank down on the north side, &c. &c ? 

November 1S44. 



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UNITED PARISHES OP 

LOCHGOIL-HEAD AND KILMORICH. 

PRESBYTBRY OF INVERARY, SYNOD OF ARGTLE. 

THE REV. JOHN M^DOUGAL, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The old name of this parish was Kil nam bratkairn- 
hill, which, in the Gaelic language, signifies a spot of ground upon 
which a church or chapel was built During the last 250 years, 
the parish has been generally known by the name of LochgoiUhead^ 
from Lochgoilf an arm of the sea ; at the bead of which the church 
is situated. 

The parish of Lochgoil-head, of old, was very extensive, and 
comprehended not only Kilmorich, but also the greatest part of 
Kilmaglass, now called Strachur. In the times of Popery and of 
Prelacy, Lochgoil-head was an archdeanery ; and not only the re- 
venues of Lochgoil-head itself, which were then very considerable, 
but part of the tithes of several other parishes contributed to sup- 
port the dignity of the arch-dean. But after the Reformation, so 
few places of worship were permitted, and these consequently so 
distant from one another, and so divided by mountains, rivers, and 
arms of the sea, as to render it extremely difficult, and sometimes 
impossible, for the ministers to'perform the duties of their office, 
or for the people to attend on their instructions. This was par- 
ticularly the case in the province of Argyle. In order to remedy 
these inconveniences, an Act of Parliament passed, anno 1649, 
empowering certain persons to disjoin the old, and to erect new, 
parishes in that province. In consequence of these powers, the 
commissioners dismembered the old parish of Lochgoil-head, and 
formed it into three separate and independent cures. One of 
these is the present parish of Strachur ; Kilmorich was another; 
and the mother church made the third, which, from its situation, 
retained the old name. 

4 



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702 AROYLESHIRB. 

Situation and Extent, — This parish is about 35 miles long, 
and from 6 to 20 miles broad. 

Figure and Surface. — Of the figure of this parish it is impossi- 
ble to give any adequate description, as it is intersected by three 
arms of the sea, divided by mountains, and indented by creeks and 
promontories. The east part of it is situated on the westward of 
Lochlong, an arm of the sea, which strikes off from the Frith of 
Clyde, at first in a north, and afterwards in a north-east direction, 
and separates the counties of Argyle and Dumbarton. It is about 
24 miles in length ; but the parish of Lochgoil-head occupies no 
more than 12 miles of its coast. Lochgoil is a small arm' of the 
sea, which strikes off from Lochlong in a north-west direction, and 
intersects the south division of the parish for six miles. The 
north-west part of the parish is divided in the same manner by 
Lochfine. Upon the west side of Lochlong, and upon both sides 
of L»ochgoil, the coast is bold and steep, and the hills high and 
craggy. The shore, upon both sides of Lochfine, as far as this 
parish extends, is more flat and accessible ; the land is very high, 
but not so rocky or steep. The barrenness of the ground along 
the coasts of Lochgoil and Lochlong is partly concealed, and the 
tremendous wildness of the scene agreeably diversified by exten- 
sive natural woods, which cover the land near the coast, and rise 
to a considerable distance from the shore. The surface of the 
country in general is very unequal ; some of the mountains which 
form the western extremity of the Grampian hills are situated in 
this parish. Particularly Bein una^ so called from the richness of 
its grass ; Bein-an^loduxm^ from the fresh water lake which washes 
its base ; Bein luibhainy abounding in herbs ; Bein thioiaire^ re- 
markable for its springs and water-cresses ; and Bein Danich, call- 
ed after a saint of that name. These, and some other hills in this 
parish^ rise to a great height. Some of these mountains are in- 
terspersed with huge rocks, caverns, and frightful precipices ; in 
others scarce a rock is to be seen. Till of late they were covered 
with black heath ; but, since they have been chiefly pastured with 
sheep, they begin to exhibit the pleasing appearance of verdure ; 
and some of them are already green to the very tops. The low 
lands and valleys form a delightful variety in the surface of this 
parish. 

Soil and Climate. — The soil in the bills is, for the most part, 
thin, dry, and firm to the tread of cattle. The high glens are 
generally wet and spongy, and in some places abound with deep 



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LOCHOOIL-HEAD AND KILMORICH. 703 

moss. The land, upon the coast, is light, sharp, and sandy ; and 
some of the low valleys are rich and fertile. The hce of the 
Heavens is generally louring and cloudy ; a serene sky is seldom 
to be seen. The tops of the mountains are most frequently co* 
vered with clouds, and, during winter, with snow. The rain is 
heavy and frequent. The winds, prevented from a free circula- 
tion, rush through the glens with irresistible violence ; and, at the 
bottom of high hills and in narrow valleys, the transitions of heat 
and cold are sudden and excessive. 

Caves. — There are in the parish a great number of natural 
caves, vaults, and grottos, of different forms and dimensions. One 
of these caves is situated a little below a very high and tremen- 
dous rock, from which a great number of smaller rocks seem to 
have been torn by some convulsion. Among these smaller rocks 
is the cave already mentioned. The entry to it is in the form of 
an arch, about 4 feet high and 3 broad. The cave itself is very 
spacious, of a circular figure, but not perfectly regular. It is more 
than 70 feet in circumference, and about 10 feet in height. All 
around the cave there are smaller vaults resembling cellars ; and, 
from one part of it, a narrow passage leads to a sniajl apartment, 
not unlike a sleeping chamber. The cave is covered above by a 
great number of large rocks, which appear to have been thrown 
upon one another without any order or regularity ; within, it is 
perfectly dry, but rather dark, having no light but what it receives 
through the passage already mentioned. This cave is remarkable 
for having been the sanctuary of one of the lairds of Ardkinglass ; 
who, according to the tradition of the country, having been de- 
feated and oppressed by some powerful neighbour, was obliged to 
conceal himself, and a few followers, in this cave for a whole year ; 
during which time his vassals and tenants found means to supply 
him with provisions so secretly, that bis retreat was not discovered 
by the enemy. It is called from this incident, Uamh tnhei Sain 
Reoich* But the most remarkable of all the numerous caves in 
this country is one which is called Uamh na plundarain* In the 
face of a steep hill there is a small area between two rocks. At 
the bottom of this area is a small opening, the mouth of which is 
covered and concealed from the eye by thick heath and ferns. 
This narrow and troublesome passage, through which a person of an 
ordinary size is with great difficulty able to creep, is about 6 feet 

* Hai Sain Reolch^ the ton of Swarthy John ; the paironymic name of the family 
of Ardkinglass. 



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704 ARGYLESHIRB. 

long, and leads to a small subterraneous apartment, about 10 feet 
long, 6 broad, and 8 high. Four feet above the bottom of this 
caye is a small opening, between two rocks, which must be ascend* 
ed by a ladder, and which leads to a second apartment, about 15 
feet long, 1 2 feet high, and of an irregular breadth. From this 
there is a narrow and rugged passage to a third apartment, 
which is also dark. This place is about 24 feet in length, 15 
in breadth, and as many in height. The rocks all around 
are covered with petrified water. The bottom, which is also 
rock, is perfectly dry. Two large rocks meeting, cover it 
above, exactly like the roof of a house. Beyond this there is 
another dark cave, nearly of the same dimensions with the first. 
These, and a great many other subterraneous apartments in this 
parish were, in former times, often the residence of a banditti who 
committed depredations on the neighbourhood. They were also 
of great service in preserving the persons and the property of the 
inhabitants, during the deadly feuds and predatory wars which 
prevailed of old in this country. A few years before the Revolu- 
tion, the powerful families of Argyle and Athol were attached to 
opposite parties in the state ; in consequence of this, and prompt- 
ed to revenge by the memory of former injuries, the vassals of the 
latter made an irruption into Argyleshire. Upon that occasion, 
the inhabitants of this parish retreated, with their wives, their chil- 
dren, and the most valuable part of their {Portable effects, to their 
caves, their strong-holds, and hiding-places, from whence they 
surprised the enemy in several successful sallies, but could not 
prevent them from burning many houses, nor from carrying away 
and destroying much cattle. 

There are in this parish two small fresh water lakes, which afford 
abundance of trout, of a small size, but of a most delicious taste 
and flavour. These trouts are killed with the rod, and take the 
hook readiest in the months of May and June. In the rivers Goil, 
Fine, and Long, there are burn trouts of different sizes ; and, near 
the coast, sea trout and salmon. Lochfine, liOchlong, and 
Lochgoil abound in great variety of excellent fish. At all sea- 
sons of the year there are haddocks, whitings, and codlings. They 
are killed either with the hand line or with the long lina The 
haddocks in Lochgoil are more numerous, and of a larger size, 
than in those parts of Lochfine and Lochlong which belong to 
this parish. The Lochfine herrings are well known ; and the her- 
rings killed in the two other lochs are nearly of the same size and 
quality. 



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LOCHGOIL-HEAD AND KILMOlllCH. 705 

II. — Civil Histpry. 
AiUiquities. — There are three castles in this parish. The castle 
of Dunduramh* is a large and strong tower/of an irregular figure, 
with small turrets above the angles in the wall ; but, as it is built 
in a low situation, it could only be a defence against the cursory 
attacks of hostile neighbours, or of thieves and robbers, who fought 
or plunder, and, when repulsed, fled away. 

The castle of Ardkinglassf is composed of three separate towers, 
each of them fronting an area within. The space between the 
towers* is defended by a strong wall about fifteen feet high. In 
the course of this wall is the great gate, which is defended by small 
round turrets in flank, with apertures, through which those who 
assailed the gate might be annoyed with arrows or with small fire- 
arms. The gate is also defended by a small tower immediately 
above it, called the gate-tower. Around the area, and within the 
walls, are smaller buildings for lodging servants, for holding arms, 
and for storehouses and cellars. This castle is als<> built in a low 
situation, and could not stand out against a regular investment. 
The time in which this castle was built is not known ; but there 
is certain evidence of its having been repaired in the year 1586. 
The old residence of the family of Ardkinglass, of which the 
ruins can now scarcely be traced, was at a small distance from 
the present castle, but in a more commanding situation. The 
place of greatest strength in this district, is the castle of Car- 
rick.| This castle is built upon a rock, which was formerly 
surrounded by the sea by means of a deep ditch. The entry .to 
the castle from the land was by a drawbridge, which was defended 
by a strong wall and two small towers. The castle itself is of an 
oblong figure, but not perfectly regular, as the architects in laying 
the foundation kept in some places by the very edge of the rock ; 
it is 66 feet long and 88 feet broad over the walls; the side- wall 
is 64 feet high and 7 feet thick. Between the castle and the sea 
there is a part of the rock unoccupied, which was surrounded by a 

* Donduramkf the fort of the two oars. This castle was built close to the sea ; and 
ai the liccess to it by land was in these times veiy bad, the most frequent communi- 
cation would probably be by boats. 

i* ArdkiftgUut, probably Aird achoinghlaiat, ihe residence of the gray dog. The 
^reat extent of plain ground around Ardkinglass permitted the proprietors to indulge 
m the pleasures of the chase, the favourite amusement of the times. Aird generaUy 
means the retidence of a great family ; it seems to express the same meaning which 
the word pface conveys in some parts of the low country of Scotland. Ard signifies 
high. In former times, powerful families usually built in high situations, particu- 
larly on promontories, fur defence ; and the name is still continued, though the cir- 
cumstance which first gave rise to it has ceased to exist. 

X Carraig, a Uock. 

ARGVLB. y Y 



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700 ARGYLESIlIttE. 

Ingli and strong wall built round the edge of the rock. Withiu 
this space 100 men might conveniently stand, for the defence of 
the castle, if it was attacked by sea. Before the invention of 
gunpowder, the castle of Carrick could only be taken by surprise; 
it was scarcely possible to storm it; nor could it be taken by block- 
ade, as it had cilways a free communication with the sea, for a 
vessel of any burden will swim along the side of the rock. The 
time in which this castle was built does not seem to be ascertained. 
It can be traced up as far as the end of the fifteenth century, but 
it is probably much older. The tradition of the country is, that 
it was built by the Danes. It was a king's house, and the Duke 
of Argyle is heritable keeper of it. It was burned by the Athol men. 

III. — Population. 
From A survey of the parish, which was finished the 24th day 
of March 1791, it appears that the number of inhabitants at that 
time was 1012. 

By census of 1801, . 1145 

ISn, . 1072 

1821, . iiao 

J83K J 196 

1841, . 1100 

IV. — Industry. 
Hent.^The valued rent of the parish is L.4d9*2, Is. Scots; or 
L.366, Os. Id. Sterling. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Lochgoil-head is now one of the principal thoroughfares to In- 
verary, — a steam vessel plying daily betwixt Glasgow and the head 
of the loch, the passengers being thence conveyed by a stage- 
coach to Inrerary, a distance of about eight miles. 

Education. — There are nine schools in the parish, one of which 
is the parochial. The salary attached to the latter is L.30, and 
the fees do not exceed L.5 per annum. 

Ecclesiastical State. — There are two churches in this pari.sh, one 
at Lochgoil-head, where the manse is, and the other at Cairndow, 
near Kilmorich, upon Lochfine side. The minister preaches two 
Sabbaths at Lochgoil-head, and the third Sabbath at^ Cairndow. 
The stipend amounts to L.167. Mr Callendar of Ardkinglass is 
patron and chief heritor. 

Poor.— The average number of poor of all classes is 26. The 
average amount of collections for their behoof is L.22, IBs. 9d.; 
of other voluntary contributions, L.5, 13s. ; of mortifications, 
mortcloth dues, &c L.14, 3s. 

December 1844. 



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COUNTY OF ARGYLE. 



The mainland of this county is situate between 56^ 21', and 57° 
north latitude ; and between V 22', and 3® 25' longitude west 
froni Edinburgh. It is bounded on the north, by the county of 
Inverness ; on the east, by those of Perth and Dumbarton ; on the 
south, by the Irish Sea ; and on the west, by the Atlantic Ocean. 
The Firth of Clyde forms its boundary on the south-east. It ex- 
tends from the Point of Ardnamurchan to the Mull 6f Kintyre, a 
distance of 115 miles; and its breadth is about 68 miles. The 
county contains about 2,432,000 acres, of which it is computed 
that 308,000 are cultivated. The valued rent in 1751 was 
L.12,466, 5s. lOd. Annual value of real property, as assessed in 
1815, L.227,41*3. Population in 1841, 97,371. The Parlia- 
mentary constituency 1749. 

The county comprehends the districts of Argyle. Lome, Cowall, 
Knapdale, and Kintyre, besides the Islands of Mull, Islay, and 
Jura. 



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ADDENDUM TO THE 
ACCOUNT OF LOCHGOIL-HEAD.* 



Civil History. 
This parish being in the neighbourhood of Inverary, and Sir 
Colin Campbell of Ardkinglas, at that period almost sole proprie- 
tor, having made common cause with the Argyle family, the in- 
habitants are known to have suffered much from the feuds which 
prevailed, before the Revolution, between the powerful chiefs 
Argyle and Athol, attached to opposite parties in th^ state. The 
people ofbn speak of the harryings which repeatedly took place, 
and of what their forefathers on these occasions suffered from the 
adherents of the Marquis of Athol. They boast, on the other hand, 
of the feats of retaliation they achieved; which may be well supposed 
to have been the case in a mountainous district, and by people 
well acquainted with the passes. Wodrow, giving an account of 
the unsuccessful attempt made by the Earl of Argyle upon his re- 
turn from Holland in 1685 to recover Inverary from the Marquis 
of Athol, mentions that, as a preparatory step. Colonel Rumbold 
with 500 men took possession of the Castle of Ardkinglas } and 
that the Earl himself, having come up soon afterwards, advanced 
to the head of Loch6ne, where the Marquis of Athol, with some 
regiments he had taken from Inverary, awaited him. The histo- 
rian describes a conflict which there took place, in which Argyle 
succeeded in driving the Marquis off the field. The royal forces, 
however, increasing, and the frigates and men of war advancing up 
Lochfine, he was afterwards speedily obliged to retire. The his- 
torian farther states, that in that year <^ the whole shire of Argyle 
was dreadfully depopulated ; and when Providence was pleased to 
send relief to the starving people by a remarkable take of herrings 
especially about Lochgoil-head, and the poor people were making 
some shift to support themselves, the Marquis of Athol's men 
came down upon them, and brake their boats, and destroyed their 
nets." Sir Colin Campbell of Ardkinglas was at this period in 
confinement, having some time previously been seized in his own 
castle on suspicion of having been corresponding with the Earl, 
and transmitting money for his use when abroad. At first he and 
some others were sent to prison to Perth, but that place and the 

• This Addendum is extracted from a statistical account furnished by the minister 
^f the parish, which unfortunately came too late to hand. 
ARGYLE, Z Z 



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712 AROYLESHIRE. 

district around manifesting a strong feeling in their behalf, it was 
considered unsafe to allow theohto remain there, and they were 
in consequence conveyed to Blackness Castle. From thence Sir 
Colin was conveyed under a strong guard to Edinburgh, for trial 
before the parliament on the charges just mentioned, and also for 
harbouring Presbyterian mtDisters. '* After the most exact in- 
quiry nothing of moment was evidently proven against him ; how- 
ever, his trouble continued a good while^ because in principle he 
was against Prelacy, and did not swear the test."* 

It may be interesting to state, that Mr John Munro, who had 
been Presbyterian minister of the parish, went to Ireland upon 
the breaking out of the troubles under Charles IL, and became 
pastor of a congregation in Antrim, but returned again to his 
charge as soon as the Presbyterian church govemmeot was restored. 
He afterwards, to the great regret of the people, accepted of a 
call to Rothesay, and died there in 1696. " He was very useful," 
says a contemporary minister, who was well acquainted with him» 
<« to our synod, as he was to the whole Church, being a man of a 
public spirit, and fit to deal with quality.^ During Mr Munro's 
absence the parish was supplied by several Episcopalian incum- 
bents. 

Archdeacon Lindsay first became minister, but waa soon after- 
wards translated to Inverary. After the Revolution, he conform- 
ed to the Presbyterian discipline, and died minister of Kilchrenan. 
To him succeeded Archdeacon M^Lean^ who was translated from 
Dunoon in 1686. He also, though with obvious reluctance, con- 
formed to the Presbyterian discipline, and became minister of Kil- 
bride in Arran. He was repeatedly reproved in public for negli- 
gence in attending church courts, and finally demiUed his chaige^ 
and removed to Ireland.f 

Eminent Men. — The writer of the last Statistical Account, Dr 
MacDougall, a native of the parish, may be mentioned as a per- 
son of great abilities and attainments, as indeed his Statistical Ac* 
count shows. His talents for business rendered him useful not 
only in the inferior, courts of the Churchi but also in the General 
Assembly. 

Land-Owners. — ^These, according to the' extent of their respec- 
tive properties, are, James Henry Callander, Esq* of Craigforth 
and Ardkinglas ; Archibald Douglas, Esq. of Glenfinnert ; Mrs 
Campbell of Drimsynie ; and John Campbell, Esq. of Strachur. 

* Wodrow. f Records of Synod of Aigyla 

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ADDENDUM TO LOCHGOIL-HEAD. 713 

Parochial BegUters. — The parochial registers cominenced id 
16929 And for a coDsiderable time were diligently kept* After- 
wards the entries, excepting for marriages and baptisms, became 
more irregular. 

Modem Buildbngu — The mansion-house of Ardkinglas was 
unfortunately destroyed by 6re a few years ago, as the tradesmen 
were just finishing extensive repairs it had undergone. The other 
mansion-houses are that of Drimsynie, near the head of Lochgoil, 
and that of Ardgartan, on the west side of Lochlong. 

Industry. 

The sides of the lochs are much skirted with oak coppices, 
adding greatly to the beauty, as well as the value of the land. 
There is a plantation of some miles around the lodge at Ardking- 
las, and Mr Douglas of Glenfinnert has lately planted a good deal 
along the south side of LoehgoiK The trees indigenous or plant- 
ed are, oak, chestnut, ash, lime, beech, pine, larch, spruce, moun- 
tain ash, &C. The coppices are cut down in succession every 
twenty-first year, and are inclosed for the space of seven years. 
They are twice thinned to admit the free circulation of air, and 
to encourage the growth of the best shoots. Farm-servants are 
generally hired for the year, and at least for the half year. The 
average wages of men servants is L.12, of women servants L.O. 
Day labourers have Is. 6d.; artisans, Is. 6d. and their victuals. 
Wool is the principal article of raw produce used for the purposes 
of domestic economy. It is generally sent to a mill to be carded, 
and blankets and plaidings are in principal request. Stuffs in- 
tended for men*s clothing are sent to the waulk-mill to be dressed. * 
Tartans are seldom made, and the lint-wheel is almost driven off 
the field by the cheapness of the cotton manufacture. 

Cattk. — The Argyleshire breed of black-cattle is considered 
very handsome, though not large. They are much valued in the 
market for the fine quality of the beef. They are generally sold 
off in the third year of their age; and a large proportion of them 
are sent to England, where they acquire a great increase in size 
and weight on richer pastures. Much attention is paid by the 
graziers as to what breed they admit into their stock, and high 
prices are given for bulls of the proper description. It is, however, 
upon the sheep stock the grazier places his principal dependence 
for his annual returns, and the proportion of black-cattle has been 
greatly diminished of late, to make room for these useful creatures, 
which all furnish a yearly fleece, and so many of them a lamb. 



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714 ARGYLBSIIIRB. 

and which) when kiiied, are considered to be of superior fiarour. 
The black-faced sheep are found to suit be&U In summer they 
climb to the top of the highest mountains, and are remarkably 
durable in weathering the storms of the tedious winter. Repeated 
experiments haYO been made with the view of introducing the Che- 
viots, whose fleeces are still more valuable ; but they were found not 
to answer, partly on account of the roughness of the surface, 
partly on account of the severity of the springs, and more still, it 
is believed, on account of the wetness of the climate. Assiduous 
attention is paid to the improvement of the breed, chiefly by the 
frequent introduction of a fresh supply of rams. It was long the 
practice also to import young sheep, hogs, as they are called, from 
favourite stocks ; but the breeds are now so much improved, that 
this practice has been discontinued. All the sheep are smeared 
in the beginning of winter, which, between the wages of the hands 
employed, and the cost of the materials, is a very expensive 
process, 5d. a-head being considered a moderate estimate. But 
this trouble and outlay are more than repaid, by the beneficial 
effects of smearing in killing vermin, in preventing scab, in 
fortifying the animal against the effects of cold, and in pro- 
moting the growth and weight of the wool. Archangel tar 
and Irish butter are the materials held in best repute for 
this process. No effectual remedy has yet been found for the 
deadly disease called braxy^ which seizes principally upon sheep 
of a year old, and generally upon the iattest and best of 
them. Sudden changes of weather, especially to hoar frost, in- 
crease the number of deaths. Its movements are often very ca- 
pricious, sometimes one side of a hill being affected by it, and 
sometimes another. It is evidently inflammatory, and is consider- 
ed by the graziers to be incurable ; and, accordingly, as soon as a 
sheep is observed to be seized with it, it is bled, not with the hope 
of effecthig a recovery, but for the purpose of improving the car- 
case. The flesh is considered by the people to be quite wholesome, 
and if the sheep die in the beginning of winter, before it becomes 
lean, half the price of regularly killed mutton can be got for it 
It is also a happy circumstance that, as the sheep get lean, their 
liability to the disease diminishes. To obviate this calamity, ex- 
tensive graziers are in the practice of sending off their young sheep 
to lower grounds, often at a considerable distence from their own 
farms, in the beginning of winter, and bringing them back in spring. 
By this means they generally escape with but a very few deaths. 



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ADDENDUM TO LOCHGOIL-HBAD. 715 

This, however, adds much to the expense of management, especi- 
ally as a careful person must be hired to take charge of them. Two 
and sixpence a-head is generally the demand for this winter grazing. 
Though it is to grazing that the chief attention of the agri* 
cultural population is devoted, some progress has been made in 
draining and improving the lower grounds with obvious advantage. 
Indeed one of the most interesting things connected with the pa- 
rish, is the regularity with which the high and the low grounds are 
proportioned to* one another. Almost every farm residence has 
as much arable land attached to it as is suflScient for the support 
of the family, and many farms have much more. How far it 
would be profitable to pay more attention to agriculture, properly 
so called, is a question that may be safely left to the intelligent 
occupiers to decide* Certainly to one conveyed hither in an hour 
or two from an agricultural district, the idea will occur that tfie 
lower grounds might be turned to more advantage than what they 
appear to be ; but, upon farther inquiry, he will probably find that 
he has not taken into account the expense of the improvements he 
desiderates, the smaller returns which at the best the soil would 
render, and the casualties to which crops are liable in so precari- 
ous a climate. For the purposes of grazing, draining the lower 
grounds, and cropping them occasionally would be useful ; but this 
is an expense which the tenant cannot be expected to be at. 
The general duration of leases is 19 years, with one or two 
breaks, in favour of the tenant, so that he has nothing to 
complain of on this score. The state of farm*buildings has been 
greatly improved of late, and may be said to be excellent. Al- 
most every farm is furnished with a good dwelling-house, and a 
commodious set of office-houses. Enclosures to a great extent 
have also been executed, and are now in progress. It is to be 
hoped they will be continued, as the lower grounds would be 
greatly improved by more of them. 

Quarries, — There are quarries of limestone in severaj parts of 
the parish, and they are occasionally worked by those in the 
neighbourhood ; but, in general, it is found more advantageous to 
use Irish lime, and a good deal has been imported of late years with 
very satisfactory results. It is observed that the native lime con- 
tinues for a longer period to be beneficial to the ground. * 

Fisheries, — The white fishing has repeatedly been tried of late 
years, but with no encouraging success, and the expectations of 
productive industry from this source are not likely to be realized. 



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716 ARQYLE8HIBB. 

There are several salmon fisheries also ; they paj DoreDty and do 
Dot cover-the expense of pursuing them. They are found tohafe 
decliued much of late, from the means, it is supposed, which hm 
been successfully employed of intercepting and securing the fish 
in deep waters before tbey enter these loch& But the fisUng of 
principal importance is the herring fishing. Locbfine, irom time 
immemorial, has been celebrated for it, and in an inferior degrae 
Lochgoil and Lochlong. The people, however, are not nearly so 
extensively occupied in this business of late as fonnerly, owing to 
the failure of the fishing, particularly in the upper parts itf LmIh 
fine, and in Lochgoil and Lochlong. The necessary outlaj for 
the fishing is so great, that when it is unsuccessful, the fishermaD 
is soon reduced to poverty. Still, the scarcity of other ensploy- 
ment, the habits he has acquired, and his having his capital, sndi 
as it is, invested in fishing implements, render it difficult for fain 
to change his mode of life ; and this class of people are oileo ob- 
served to swell the lists of the poor. There are but few, however, 
who now pursue the fishing as their only employment. They oc- 
cupy themselves at some handicraft or as day-labourers during 
the greater part of the year, and go only in the summer and bar- 
vest months to pursue the fishing. A complete equipment,— boat, 
train, &c« costs about L.70. Young people, however, commence 
with shares, and according to their success and good conduct, 
make progress in getting boats of their own. It is by means of 
machinery that nets are now manufactured, which has efi*ected a 
great improvement on the trains. Formerly each net was divided 
into several pieces for the conveniency of working; but these, how- 
ever skilfully joined, did not run so regularly, nor stand so well in 
the water, as when the whole net is one entire piece. The tnins 
now used are double the size of those in use some years ago. This 
year the fishing has been uncommonly successful Several boats 
have realized L.150, and the average is from L,60 to L.70. Tlis 
employment is attended with the great advantage of training yonng 
people to handle the rudder and the sail, and to encounter the wind 
and the wave, but it is attended with many drawbacks. So much 
depends upon chance and good luck, as it is called, that the pur* 
suit is calculated to unsettle the minds of the young, and to giie 
them a distaste to regular every-day employment. It is well 
known also, that fishermen are in the daily practice, while tbey 
are engaged in this occupation, of drinking several glasses of ar- 
dent spirits, the curers, in order to secure a speedy cargo, rivalling 



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ADDENDUM TO LOCHGOIL-IIEAD. 717 

one another in plying them with this dangerous indulgence. It 
will scarcely be believed, that 10 per cent, of the price of the fish 
is expended in whisky, yet this is the estimate formed by persons 
thoroughly acquainted with the business* Many of the fishermen 
are beginning to see that so many drams are not given them gratis, 
but are paid for out of their own industry, and would willingly give 
up the practice. This happy step has been taken to some extent 
in the northern lochs ; and it is to be hoped the good example will 
be followed by those in the south. 

Beat qfLand.^The valued rental of the parish is L.857, 12s. 
lid.; the real rental is L.5250. 

Produce. — The average amount of raw produce, as nearly as it 
can be ascertained, is as follows : 

1. The produce of grain u, bolls of corn, 774» at I5t. per boll, LMSO. 
But of this the one-half is used for provender, and estimated accotd- 

ingly, leaving a balance of . . . L.290 5 

2. Potatoes, bolls, 1872, ® Ss. a L.748, 16s. But of this one-fourth Is 

used in ffjeding cattle, and estimated accordingly, leaving a balance of 561 12 
a Hay, 88,000 stones, @ 5d. per stone, » L.791, ISk. 4d. All of this 
is reserved for the wintering of cattle, and estimated accordingly. 

4. Pasture, rating it at L.3 for a full-grown cow or oz, and at Ss. 6d. for 

a full-grown sheep, • • • 7000 

5. Thinning and periodical felling of woods, . 4^ 

6. Fisheries, . . . . 420 



U872I 17 

Parochial Economy. 

Villaffes.'^'The principal village is Lochgoil-head, which only 
contains a population of 1 17 persons. Several neat cottages have 
been built last year at the head of the loch, and as the locality is de- 
sirable, and the proprietor disposed to feu, it is probable that the 
village will be soon considerably increased. 

Ecclesiastical State. — Both the churches are in an excellent state 
of repair, and afford accommodation for 800 sitters. The present 
manse and office-houses were built in 1841, and, it is believed, 
there are not any in Scotland more complete. The glebe and 
servitude attached to it may be valued at from L.dO to L.40. 
The amount of the stipend is, meal, 90^ bolls, money, L.34ft 7s. 
S^d. Exchequer allowance, L.4S, 15s. lOd. The average 
amount of collections for religious purposes is from L.6 to L.10. 
Miscellaneous Observations. 

Enclosing and draining the low grounds to a greater extent 
would not only impart an increased air of civilization, but also be 
of substantial benefit both for grazing and agriculture. In com- 
paring these two lines of business, greater progress appears to have 
been made in the business of grazing than in agriculture. The 



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718 ARGYLBSHIRB. 

re<ir!ng and management of cattle, the staple trade, is carried to 
a high degree of perfection. In the fishery the principal changes 
that have taken place of late are the great length of the trains 
novAsedy and their being manufactured in the loom. As to the 
coppices the principal change is the great fall in the price of bark 
consequent upon the peace, and the opening of the continental 
ports. This year the price of this article was L. 7, 1 Os. per ton, 
whereas during the war it was more thaii double that amount. But 
the most striking variation between the present state of things and 
that which existed a few years ago, is occasioned by the arrival of 
steam vessels in the parish itself, and in the neighbourhood. 
Black-cattle and sheep, instead of being driven a long distance, 
greatly to the deterioration of their condition, are put on board a 
steamer, and arrive in a few hours in Greenock and Glasgow. 
The herrings fished near the head of Lochfine, instead of being 
^* carried by horses in creels to Lochgoil-head, a distance of eight 
or ten miles, and injured by frequent handling,'' are now sent in 
boxes by steam to the market, which they reach on the same day 
they were caught. 

These boxes, again, are put on board the Liverpool steamers in 
great quantities, and the fresh herrings of Lochfinp are sold there 
on the following day. From Liverpool they are sent by the rail 
trains to Manchester, &c The fishermen are sanguine, and 
not without grounds, that herrings will always continue in great 
demand in these lochs from the growing conveniency of dispos- 
ing of them. This year they averaged 2s. 6d. per hundred. As 
to the convenience of travelling, the favourable change is well 
known to the public Formerly persons going to the low country 
required to climb the Duke of Argyle's bowling green, or to sail 
in an open boat from one headland to another, exposed to all the 
vicissitudes of the weather. In was in fact a serious undertaking, 
especially in the winter season, to go by water to Greenock ; but 
now people not only go with ease, but can calculate upon the number 
of minutes they will spend on the way. Progress might be made^ 
without great expense, in improving in some places the internal 
communication of the parish. It is fortunate for the peace and 
contentment of every new generation that it sees itself so far In 
advance of those which came before it, and does not possess the 
means of comparing its condition with that of those which are to 
follow. There is truth also in the doctrine of compensation, 

*^ In balance true 
Weighing the mischief with Uie promised gatn." 

' January 1845. 

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INDEX. 



Abbofb isle, the, 516 

AchAchaiTa, Dniidical remains at, S49 

Achadaahenaig house, 857 

Achalick bay, 360 

AchaUader castle^ ruins of, 96 

Achandrane, village o^ 27 

Achaneilan moss, 127 

Achantiobairt, remains of monastery at, 25 

Achar, obelisk at, 242 

Achindarroch house, 262 

Achinduin castle, ruins o^ 241 

Achleck, Ms of, 166 

Achnacroish, harbour of, 230 — house, 288 

Achnagol, village o^ 27 

Ad water, the, 678 

Adomnan, account of lona by, 320 

Agricultural associations, Qlenurchy, 100 
— Sunart, 155 

Agriculture and rural economy, 27, 55, 
69, 76, 99, 105, 112, 149, 188, 210, 
246, 264, 289, 308, 348, 356, 367, 374, 
387, 402,410, 431, 450, 463, 502, 520, 
528, 540,546, 562,614, 639, 653, 664, 
670, 673, 690 

Ahaide, quoad waura parish of, 158 

Aidanus, king, 322, 323 

Ainart, loch, 122 

Airdlamont, headland o^ 360 — house, 
359,365 

Airdmeannach, district of, 297*-ca?esin, 
299 

Aird'ft house and bay, 228, 516 

Airi-Innis loch, 166 

Alder tree in Southend, superstition re- 
garding, 429 

Alhui-arSop, traditions regarding, 343 

Amhain mhor water, 49 

Angel'ft hill at lona, the, 337 

Angus, Lord of the Isles, 442 

Angus Mhor, death of, 137 

Antiquities, 24, 53, 68, 74, 96, 105, HI, 
145, 181,204, 240, 286, 305, 331, 342, 
849, 355, 364, 373, 384, 400, 410, 428, 
445, 461, 494, 517, 538, 545, 555, 560, 
594, 635, 650, 663, 669, 673, 685, 705 

Aora water, 1, 6 — ^fitUs on, 7 

Appin, district of, 225 — house, 228 

Aray water, 1, 6, 7 

Archimedes screw, inventor of the, 79 

Ardchattan, parish of, 468'-priory, his- 
tory and ruins of, 495 
ABQYLE. 



Ardelister isles, the, 661 

Ard^artan house, 712 

Ardmcaple house, 474 

Ardkinglass castle, ruins of, 705~house, 

712 
Aidlussa house, 540 
Ardmaddy, bay of; 73— castle, 74 
Ardmamoch house, 366 
Ardmimsh bay and houae, 396 
Ardmore bay, 661 
Ardmucknish bay, 474 
Ardnacallich, headland and bay o( 847 
ArdnacrosB bay, 455 
Ardnafiiaran, ruins of church at, 147~- 

village of, 149 
Ardnamurchan, parish o^ 117 — district 

of, 118— headhmdo^ 129, 130 
Ardnave point, 644 
Ardpatrick, headland of, 409 
Ardrisaaig, harbour and village o( 270, 

274 
Ardaheal cave and hill, 227 
Ardtealla bay, 661 
Ardtoe bay, 156 
Ardtomish castle, ruins o^ 184— bapr, 190 

— &lls of, 166— free^ne quamee o^ 

170 
Ardvrecknish house^ 85 
Aigyle, &mily o^ 18, 22— landing of the 

Marquis o^ in 1 686, 355, 711 
Aigyleshire^ summary of the statistics of, 

707 
Arichonan hill, 632 

Arinangour, village of, 2 1 7 — harbour, 2 1 8 
Arisaig, district of, 118, 120— headland, 

130— house, 148 
Aros bay and castle, 357, 661 
Auchnamara water, 633 
Avich water and loch, 373 
Avon Lussa water, 536 
Awe water, 89, 477— loch, 85, 372 
fia loch and water, 281 
Bach isle, 340 
Bailechellsh mountains, 225 
Ballimore house, 105, 365 
Ballyshear house, 430 
Balmaodan church, ruins of, 496 
Balvicar, village ^^ 79 
Barachan creek, 302 
Barbreck, defeat of the Dane^ at, h\-^ 

hoiue, 54 — valley, 46 
3a 



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720 



ABQTLB8HIRB. 



Baibreck^ bone, traditum ngarding, 51 

Barcaldine castle, 499— fJEunily of, 49^— 
house, 501— giudens at it, 485 

Bannore house, 262— fort on, 639 

Bair, glen, 377 

Banchastaillain, ruins of fort at, 96 

Basaltic columns of Ulya, the, 345— of 
StafiEk, see Staf& 

Bay of Martyrs, the, 337 

Beolochintie bay, 377 

Belnahua isle and slate quany, 535 

Benabhuiiidh hill, 83 

Benanlocham hill, 702 

Benantuirk hill, 377, 437 

Benaacriodhain hill, 227 

Benbuihill,2 

Benchaorach hill, 471 

Benchapull hill, 62 

Bencochail hill, 470 

Bencruachan, mount, 83, 470 

Bendonich hill, 702 

Bendourain hill, 83 

Beneaddan hill, 165 

Bengaillin hill, 454 

BenheiniBh hill, 196 

BenketUn hill, 471 

Benlaordh hill, 84 

Benlubhain hill, 702 

Benmacmonaidh hill, 83 

Benmaigh hill, 278 

Benmore hill, 277, 298, 570^hou8e, 610 

Ben-na-hua hill, 165 

Ben-nan-aighean hill, 471 

Benstaiive hill, 470 

BenteaUuidh hill, 277 

Benuna hill, 702 

Benvan hill, 548 

Benveedan hill, 471 

Benvigory hill, 659 

Beoraig loch, 124, 126 

Beton of Pennyross, fiunily of, 306 

Bishops of the Isles, list of the, 330 

Bishop^ house in Ibna, ruins of the^ 333 

Bishop'b seat hill, 570 

Blackmill, bay of, 73 

Blar Seine, battle of, 142 

Boat cave at Staffa, the, 352 

Boe^ caye, 414 

Bonessan, village o^ 310 

Botany, 12, 92, 104, 175, 234, 260, 284, 
305, 319, 363, 383, 399, 422, 440, 483, 
554, 581, 634, 649, 662, 681 

Bow Knap rock, 259 

Bowmoie, viUage of, 668, 669 

Braes of Lorn, the, 62 

Brallaig loch, 64 

iBnindir, pass of, 88 

Breacacha bay, 199 — ruins of castle at, 
207 

Breckry water, 416 

Bridge, ancient, in InTenry, 26 

Bridges, see Roads 

Bruce, notices of, 423, 442, 486, 525 

Buaduulle, rock of, 352 



BuachaiUe Btiye, hills of, 471 

Buchanan, Rer. Claudius, 22 

Buie water, 479 

Bulvicar, bay o( 73 

Bunawe, iron woiks of, 100, 519, 520 

Buig, headhmd o^ 299 

CaiUich Vearor, stone called, 105 

Caimbulg, remains on, 342 

Caimburgh isles, the, 340 

Caim-challein, tradition regarding, 68 

Cairns in Aidchattan, 500— in Coll, Y99 
—in Jura, 538— in Killean, 384— in 
Kilfinan, 365 — ^in Kilmartin, 560 — m 
liBmore, 244— in Saddell, 449 

Caitnish, &lls of the Urchay at, 89 

Caldwell, F. W., Esq., of Mishnish, 854 

Calgany castle, 342 

Calve, isle of, 354 

Cameron, Messrs, bequests by, 161 

Campbell, General Dugald, 22— Oeneral 
Duncan, t5. — Professor George, biith- 
phice of; t&.— of Barbreck, fiunily o^ 
51,— of Craignish, femily of, t5. — Cap- 
tain Donald, i6.-^ohn, bequest by, 59 
—General John, and Colin, bequests br* 
{6.— Archibald, the mathematician, 67 
—Admiral Sir Patrick, t5.— Sir CoUn, 
f6.— Colin, of Carwhin, bequest by, 101 
— Sir Donald, of Ardnamurchan, 138 
—Mr, of Ballimore, 862, 363, 867— of 
Skipness, career of, 444 — ^Miss, beqnert 
by, 466— Rev. Colin, 487— General, of 
Lochnell, 490— of Lochnell, fiunily ot^ 
492— of Barcaldme, fiunily o^ 493 — 
Sir Archibald, 634— oflslay, 668— of 
Achnabreck, fiunily of, 684--of Eder- 
linc^ t6.^Thomas, the poet, ib, — Sir 
Colin, of Ardenslaas, 711 

Campbelton, parish of, 453— bay oi, 455 
—town 0^ its trade, &c 464 

Canal, the Crinan, 265 

Caol loch, 302 

Caolchum castle, 86— its history, 87 

Caolisport loch, 257, 259 

Cara isle, 879, 395 

Carmichael, Captain Dugald, 239 

Cama isle, 121, 165 

Caman water, 479 

Camaanry castle^ ruins o^ 555 

Cam-nfr^aullich, tradition regardmg, 170 

Canadale water, 438 

Carraig, rock of, 232 

Carrick castle, ruins o^ 705 

Carskey hoj, 414— house, 430 

Carswell, Bishop, 555 

Cascades in Ardchattan, 478, 479 

Castle Coeffin, ruins d^ 241 

Castle Craignidi, 54 

Castle Meamaig, rains of^ 241 

Castle house of Dunoon, the, 607, 610 

Castle of D09B, the, 75 

Castle Shuna, rains o^ 241 

Castle Sween, ruins and IdstoiT o^ 261, 
636 



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INDEX. 



721 



Castle Toward house, B09 
Castle Tyrom, ruins of, 147 
Castles, remains of fort at, 97— eave at, 
345 

Cayes, yarious, in Campbelton, 454 — in 

. Gigha, 395— in Jura, 535— in Kildal- 
ton, 660 — in Kilfinichan, 2d9~in Kil- 
lean, 379 — in Kilninver, 63— in Us- 
more, 227 — ^in Lochgoil-head, 708— -in 
Southend, 413— in StaflSi, 351— in To- 
rosay, 279— in Ulva> 345 

Ceann-a-Mhara hill, 196 

Chapels, remains of, in Cnugnish, 53— in 
Gigha, 400 — ^in Glassary, 685— in Jura, 
539— in Kilchoman, 650— in Kildal- 
ton, 663— in Kiliinichen, 305— in Kil- 
ninian, 341— in Knapdale, 262— in 
Tobermory, 355 

Charles, Prince, notices of, 129, 142 

Chirsty*s rock, tradition regarding, 346 

' Churcnes, see Ecclesiastieal statistics 

Clachan, sound of, 71— village of, 251 

Clach-na-brath, remains of the, 337 

Ckug castle, ruins o^ 669 

Claigean bay, 661 

Clamshell caye at Staflb, the, 351 

Clanranald, origm of the fiunily of, 141 

Claonaig water, 438 

Claonary yUlage of, 27 

Clark, Mr, of Ulya, 347 

Climate and meteorology, 3, 47, 63, 73, 
108, 131, 165, 199, 230,280, 302, 316, 
340, 361, 379, 396, 409, 415, 437,456, 
474, 633, 645, 661, 669, 676, 702 

Clyde, fHth of, 415, 456, 574, 577 

Coal, workings for, in Kilfinidien, 303 

Coe water, 231 

Coeffin castle, ruins of, 241 

Coins, ancient, found in Ardchattan, 500, 
501--.in Coll, 207— in Jura, 539— in 
Kilmartin, 560 — ^in Lismore, 243 — ^in 
Tiree, 206— in Torosay, 288 

Coh'pol, village of, 79 

Coll, island of, 198, 199 

Coll Kittoch, traditions regarding, 52, 67, 
424,558 

Colonsay, island oS, 340, 345/ 851, 534, 
544 

Columba, St, 320 

Cona water, 231 

Coniglen, valley o^ 419— water, 416 

Connell feny, 475 

Copper mines in Temate, 170 — m Glas- 
saiy, 679 

Coral, bank of, 421 

Corellan isle, 259 

Corinachencher bay, 281 

Cormaig, St, tradition regarding, 262 

Cormorant cave at Staffia, the, 352 

Coneach house, 229 — water, 231 

Comletter, cascade at, 478, 479 

Corran water, 536 

Corrie, bishop of Madras, 490 

Coryvrechan, whirlpool of, 539 



Cove, cave at the, 345— ruins of church 

at, 262, 263 
Cnugnish, pariah ot, 45 — castle 54 — ^locb, 
46,47 

Craignuire bay, 281 

Crakaig, Druidical remains at, 349 

Creach Bhunn, mount, 124 

Creran, loch, 475, 476— water, 231, 479 

Crime in Inverary, statistics of, 42 

Crinan cuial, the, 57> 265, 638-^moflB of, 
550, 552 

Crosses, various, of Campbelton, 461-^in 
Inverary, 25— in lona, 835— -in Kil- 
choman, 650— in Kildalton, 638— of 
Lismore, 242— in North Knapdale, 635 

CroBsaig water, 438 

Croflspol, bay of, 199 

Cruachan, mount, 83, 470 

Cruachlusach, mount, 632 

Cuan, pariah o^ see Kilbrandon— sound 
0^72 

Cuil, bay of, 229 

Culdeea^ origin and history of the, 323— 
their establishment in Colonsay, 544, 
545 

Cur water, 104 

Dail house, 54 

Dail-nan-oeann, battle of, 52 

Dalintober, village o^ 465 

Dahiess, cascade at, 478, 479 

Dalriads, landing of the, in Scotland, 422 

Danes, defeat of the, at Barbreck, 51 

Danish remains in Coll, 207-^in Craig- 
niah, 53— in Glenurchy, 96— in Kn- 
dalton, 663— in Kilfimchen, 305 — ^in 
Killarow, 669— in Morvem, 183— in 
Southend, 429— jn Tiree, 205— in T^ 
bermory, 355 

Daoire-nam-mart loch, 166 

Deechoid hill, 516 

Deigan. water, 479 

Devar, island of, 455 

Diseases prevalent in Ardnamurchan, 132 
— ^in Inverary, 4 

Dissenters and diaSentiBg chapels, 38, 56, 
70, 79, 107, 158, 191, 219,253,293, 
31 1, 353, 356, 374, 393, 406, 41 1, 484, 
466, 507, 529, 580, 564, 611, 624, 656, 
674, 8S7 

Distilleries in Campbelton, 464— in Glas- 
sary, 692— in Islay, 670— in Kilninver, 
69— in Kilchoman, 655 

Donald Conallach, death of, 137 

Donald of the Hammers, 239 

Doras Mdr, strait of the, 47 

Douglas burn, 7, 8 

Douloch, the, 5— remains of old castle 
at,?5 

Draining, 76, 246, 367, 433, 563, 653, 670 

Drimdrusajg house, 262 

Drimnin castle, ruins of, 184 

Drimree, battle at, 51 

Drimsynie house, 712 

Drimvuick house, 501 



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Diimyeonb^s bay, M6 

Druid'b bridge, tbe, 98 

Droidical lemaioB in Ardcbattan, 494, 
500 — ^in Dunoon, 595— in lona, 25, 
337— in Kilfinan, 865— in Kilfinichen, 
306-— in Killean, 385 — ^in Kilmartin, 
660 — in Kilninian, 342 — ^in Lismore, 
244"- in Monrem, 183 — ^in Muckaim, 
513— in Saddell, 449— in Ulva, 349 

Drumfin house, 355 

Duart, bay of, 281_ca«Ue, rains <^ 286 

Duchoille^ ruins of castle at, 96 

Dun Aidh, ruins of, 670 

Dunanbuiaig^ caini of, 68 

Dunan Aula, tradition regarding, 52 

Dunans house^ 673 

Dunaidaiy hill, 632 

Dunaverty bay, 414--castle, ruins o( 423 
—Tillage of, 431 

Dunbonreniig, rains of^ 670 

Dun Chifie^ tradition relating to, 400 

Dunchuaich hill, 2'remain8 of fort at, 
25 

Dundonald castle, ruins of, 384 

Dunduiamh castle, ruins of, 705 

Dunii hill, 314 

Dunloskin loch, 583 

Dun-Mhi-Raonaill, remains o^ 68 

Dunolly castle, ruins of, 525 

Dunoon castle, ruins and history ot, 597 
—Tillage of, 568, 574 

Dunoon and Kilmun, united parisbeB at, 
567 

Dunrostan water, 633 

Duns, Tarious, in Coll, 207— >in Glenur- 
chy, 97— in Kilfinan, 364— in Tiree, 
205 

Dunskeig, remains of the forts o( 410 

Dunstaffiiage castle, ruins and history of, 
523 

Duntaynish hill, 632 

Duntorril hill, 2 

Duntroon castle, 557 

Duror water, 231 

fiachaig, valley and water of, 104,571, 
578 

Rwdale^ island ot, 71 — sound, 72 — har- 
bour, 78— slate quarries, 77— village, 
78 

Bcdesastical statistiGS, 86, 58, 70, 79, 
100, 107, 114, 157, 190, 219,252,271, 

292, 310, 338, 844, 854, 369, 874, 392, 
406, 411, 433, 451, 465, 506,521,529, 
530, 541, 547, 564, 620, 641,656,665, 
671, 674, 693, 706— general, of the 
county, 708 

Bck loch, 104, 571, 578 
Ederlin loch, 677 

Education, statistics of, 39, 59, 70, 80, 
102, 107, 115, 160, 191, 220,253,272, 

293, 311, 354, 370, 374, 392,406, 412, 
434, 452,466, 507, 521, 529, 531,542, 
625, 642, 656, 666,671, 674, 697, 706 
•^general, of the county, 708 



Eilan-mor island, 198 

Eildn Finnan, remains of church at, 147 

Eilein-nan-^obhar, vitrified fort oi; 145 

Eleanmunde, ancient parish of, 223 

Slein-loch-Oscar, isle d, 230 

EUain isle, 661 

EIlandheiiT^ castle, ruins oi, 111 

Ellan-duirnish isle, 469 

EUan-fiida isle, 259 

Ellanmore, rums of chapel at, 262— 

island of, 259 
Ellan-na-leek isle, 259 
£llan-na-muick ic^e, 259 
Embanking of the Urchay, the, 99 
Entomology, see Zoology 
Eolan water, 479 
Eorsa isle, 297, 301 
Eridine house, 373 
Erinis house, 262 
Eriska isle, 469 
Enrary hill, 632 
Esragan water, 479 
Esse fbrse, fiiU of, 350 
Etive, loch, 475— water, 478 
Euchar water, 62, 65 
Fair^ see Markets 
Famine, depopulation of Kilfinichen by, 

307 
Farm-buildings, 30, 44, 99, 106, 191,265, 

483, 504, 664, 665 
Feucban, loch, 63, 64 
Fine, loch, 104, 677, 678, 691— water, 704 
Finpd'S cave, description ci, 352— ibrt, 

in Killean, 885— Griddle, antiqmty 

called, 147— oak, 484— steps» 165 
Finlaggan castle, ruins (jS, 669 
Finlay, Kirkman, Esq. of Castle Toward, 

586, 607- 
Fionn-chaiin castle, ruins and history of, 

683 
Fisheries, Herring, 33,''50, 69, 78, 106, 

110, 154, 173, 234, 264, 810,368,450, 

463, 689, 691— Salmon, 69, 100, 154, 

173, 234, 291, 368, 451, 504, 528, 617, 

674-^3ea, 204, 214, 234, 809, 399, 404, 

457, 463, 655 
Fishes of InTerary, list of the, 10— ees 

Zoology 
Fladda ule, 840 

Florida, destruction of the, 183, 855 
Forbes, Patrick, Esq. improTcments by, 

106 
Forest, andent, in Gknurchy, 92 
Fona water, 281 
Forts, ancient, in Glaasary, 682— in Kil- 

dalton, 663— in KiUanow, 669 — in 

North Knapdale, 636 
Friendly societies, 116 
Fuel, 60, 71, 81, 103, 116, 194, 218,255, 

275, 295, 31 1, 372, 407, 435, 468, 509, 

533, 566, 629, 643, 658, 667 
Fuller'b earth, bank of, 421 
Furnace, village of, 27 
Gairloch,the, 678 



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Gardiner, Rev. James, 444 
Garbhreifla, island of, 47 
Oarvelloch, island ci, 5S4 
Gear-abhain water, 167 
Gear-amlminQ water, 6 
Geologj and mineralogy, 7, 49, 90, 110, 
, 133, 169, 201, 282, 303, 317, 340, 345, 

362, 380, 397, 409, 416, 438, 456, 480, 

538, 550, 579, 646, 662, 678 
Gerloch, the, 229 
Giant"^ fbrt, the, 385 
Giant's grave, the, 205 
Gigha isle, 377, 394 
Gigha and Caia, miited parishes of; 394 
Gigalmn, isle of; 895, 396 
GiTp, loch, 678 

Glackingdaline castle^ luins oi^ 349 
Glaissean loch, 678 
Glaschoiren hill, 124 
Glaasaij, pariah of, 675 
Glenaheurich, 125 
Olenaladale, 125 
Glenaray, 2, 6 
Glenbrantor house, 105 
Glenbreckry, 413 
Glencainail, 278, 279 
Glencoe, mountains and scenery o^ 225 

— massacre of, 238 
Glendaruell house^ 673 
Glendow, 474 

Glendubh, lead mines'of, 170 
Glenetive, 473 
Gleneachar, 62 
Glenfinart, 572— house, 610 
Glenfinnon, tower at, 148 
Glenibrsa, 278, 279 
Glening, 126 
Glenketland, 473 
Glenkinglas, 472 
Glenlean, 572 
Glenlochaj, 84 
Glenmassan, 572 
Glenmeuble, 126 
Glenmore, 278— bay, 166 
Olennoe, 472 

Glenorchy, Lady, bequest by, 102 • 
Glensalloch, 474 
Glensanda castle, ruins of, 241— hill of, 

227 
Glenshellis house, 105 
Glenshira, 2, 6 
01enstrae,84 

Glenurchy agricultural association, 100 
Glenurchy and Inishail, united parishes 

of, 82 
Glenure, 473 
Glunamore isle^ 414 
Goil, loch, 702— water, 704 
Gometra, island of; 340, 345, 351 
Great cave of Gigha, the, 395 
Gribun* cave at, 299 
Gruinard, loch, 645 
Guisachan water, 479 
Gunna, island of, 198 



Gunpowder mills in Dunoon, 612-^in 
• Glassary, 692— in Kilfinan, 366 
Gylen castle, ruins of, 526 
Hailon house, 610 
Hamilton, Rev. Mr, imprisonment of, 

146 
Harboun in Ardnamurchan, 156 — in Co- 
lonsay, 546— m Craignisb, 57— in Jura, 
541 — ^in Morvem, 190 
Heynish, bay o^ 197 
Herdsman, rock called the, 352 
Herring fisheries of Lochfine, the, S3, 691, 

715, see alM> FiaheriesL 
Hill of Angels at lona, the, 337 
History, civil, 17, 51, 66; 73, 93, 105, 
111, 134, 177, 204, 238, 261,284, 305, 
341, 355, 364, 373, 384, 400, 409, 422, 
441, 458, 486, 517,Kilmartin, 560— in Knapdale, 263 
—in Torosay, 287 

StoneBeld bay, 516 

Stomoway bay, 409 

Strachur, hills and strath of, 104 — bay, 
107— house, 105 

Strachur and Stralachlan, united parishes 
of, 107 

Strachurmore house, 105 

Strae water, 84 

Stralachlan, strath of, 104 

Stranamban loch, 281 

String loch, 64 

Striven loch, 108, 109 

Strone point, 574 

Stronshira headland, 3 

Strontian, lead mines of, 134, 154 — quoad 
sacra parish of, 158 — valley of, 124 

Sunadale water, 438 

Sunart, district of, 118, 119— loch, 119, 
121 

Sunderland house, 651 

Swen castle, ruins and history of, 261, 
636— loch, 632 

Taocheillein castle, 85 

Tarbert bay, 396— castle, ruins of, 410— 
loch, 409— village, 274, 411 

Tayribbi, village of, 251 

Teagus loch, 168 

Teamate, ancient copper mines of, 170 — 
loch, 166 

Tendal water, 479 

Texa isle, 661 

Thomas, Abbot of Saddell, 443 

Tides in Loch Craignish, the, 47— in Loch- 
fine, 678 
' Tiree, island of, 195 

8Ji 



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Tiree and Coll, united parishes of, 195 
Tirefoor castle, ruina of, 242 
Tobermory, quoad 90ura parish of, 354 — 

village of, ih, 
Toberonochy, harbour at, 78 — Tillage of, 

79 
Tolla loch, 85 
Torloiflk house, 342 
Torosay, parish of, 277 
Torrisdale water, 438 
Torsay, island of, 71 
Toward castle, ruins of, 600 — point, 

lighthouse on, 574 
Trees, remarkable, in Ardchattan, 484 — 

in Inverary, 16 
Treshinish -isles, the, 340 
Tumuli in Ardchattan, 500 — in Invert 

chaolain, 112— in Jura, 538 — in Kil- 

calmonell, 410 — in Kilfinan, 365 — in 

Killean, 384— in Kilmartin, 560— in 

Lismore, 244 — ^in Morrem, 188 — in 

Saddell, 449 
Turner, General, 22 
Tyrom castle, ruins of, 122, 147 
Uaglamaich cave, 535 
Ulric, a Dane, monument to, 52 
Ulra, islfr ef, 340, 345~hou8e, 349— 

qwoad mjcra parish of, 345 — sound, ih.y 

347 
Unimore, valley of, 168 



Urchay water, 82, 84, 89 

Ure water, 479 

Urns found in Ardchattan, 500— in Jura, 

539— in Southend, 428 
Vitrified forts in Ardnamurchan, 145 — 

of Dunakeig, 410— at loch Teagus, 183 
Vrogie, cascade of, 480 
Wages, rates of, 81, 76, 214, 249, 290, 

358, 403, 451, 463, 503» 528, 564,615, 

639, 653, 664, 718 
Wallaoe, victory of, in Lorn, 486 
Watch-towers, ruins of, in Glassary, 682 
Watson, Rev. Mr, death of; 146 ' 
Weir, Rev. Mr, death of, 146 
Whale, large, found in Saddell, 440 
Wheat^ first growth of, in the Hebrides, 

347 
Whyte, Archibald, exploits o^ 606— 

John, inventor of the Archimedes 

screw, 79 
Wilson, ProffesecM*, description of Loch 

Etivo by, 476 
Wolf, death of the last, in GlasBaiy, 680 
Woods of Inverary, the, IS-^-see also 

Plantations 
Zebus, herd of, in Glassary, 680 
Zoology, 9, 50, Q^, 91, 104, 110, 171,20.5. 

233, 260, 282, 304, 319, 341, 348, 863, 

380, 399, 409, 439, 481, 588, 554, 587, 

633, 648, 662, 680 



ERRATA. 

21st line from top of page 1 19, /or " having been" read ** who having been." 

10th line from top of page 121, /or ** Lochoranua** read " Lochnanua.** 

19th line from top of page 122,/or « Reaull" read " KeaulL" 

15th line from top of page 123, /or ** Lochshiel" read " LochieL" 

6th line from bottom of page 126, /or ** Brosaig" read ** Becmiig.'" 

1 1th line from top of page 127, /or " Kinkan" read " Kintra." 

14th line from top of page 133, /or « limestone of read ** Ihnestone, and of." 

5th line from bottom of page 134, /or " Maruin" read ** Morven." 

12th line from top of page 138,/or " Baslerick" read " Barbx«ck." 



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EDINBURGH : PRINTED BY STARK AND OOMPANV, 
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