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PRESBYTERY OF ELLON, SYNOD
OF ABERDEEN.
THE REV. JAMES RUST, MINISTER.
I.—Topography and Natural
History.
[Drawn up by the late
incumbent, the Rev. Gavin Dunn.]
All my endeavours to
ascertain the era at which the parish of Forvie was annexed to that of
Slains have entirely failed.
Extent, &c.—The extreme
length of the parish is somewhat more than 6 miles, breadth about 3˝, and
it is of a triangular shape. It is bounded on the west south-west by the
river Ythan, which divides it from Foveran; on the north-west, by the
rivulet called Forvie burn, which separates it from Logie Buchan; on the
east north-east, by the parish of Cruden; and on the south-east, by the
northern ocean.
The surface of the parish
is remarkably varied, and beautifully undulating. The rocky part of the
coast abounds with caves, the most remarkable of which is the Dropping
Cave, or White Cave of Slains. It would seem that, in former times, it was
an object of deep interest to the curious, and it is still so considered.
There are several other caves in which, as well as in the Dropping Cave,
fine specimens of petrifaction are to be found ; but their chief celebrity
arose from their having afforded excellent places of concealment for
contraband goods in the " high and palmy state" of smuggling, which was
carried on here to an almost incredible extent. One of these caves, called
Hell-lum, is upwards of 200 feet in length, and the pitch of the arch
within, in some places, rises to the height of thirty feet.
There is one fissure of
about thirty yards in length, four feet in width, and from twenty to
thirty in heighth, called the Needle's-eye, through which the sea, in an
easterly gale, rushes with impetuous violence. This fissure perforates a
round bluff hill of solid rock, which is covered with a layer of earth to
the depth of several feet, and its sides are smooth and polished with the
action of the waves.
The extent of coast is
somewhat upwards of six miles, the greatest part rocky, the remainder of a
fine soft sand. The rocks rise to an elevation of from 170 to 200 feet
above the level of the sea, and are bold and precipitous, forming
innumerable little bays and creeks. In some places, they are riven asunder
and piled on one another in terrible confusion, ever and anon yawning with
deep and ghastly chasms. Many of these little bays, if they may be called
so, are thickly studded with bare rocks, some rising to a great height in
naked magnificence, while others heave their huge and horrid ridges just
above the surface of the water.
Climate.—Upon the whole,
there is scarcely any perceptible variation of the climate over the extent
of the parish; and it may be characterized as damper and colder, and in
every respect less genial than in some of the inland parts of the county.
One of the most painful and
agonizing diseases that can afflict humanity carries off its yearly
victims from amongst us, and has not once left the parish these many
years. This fatal and almost incurable malady is the stone, which chiefly
prevails among the aged fishermen ; and there are four men upwards of
sixty years at present labouring under its tortures. Some attribute this
disease to the quality of the spring-water, which is very hard, and after
long standing, deposits a little limy sediment; others to the beer which
they drink, a beverage they are particularly fond of, when they return
from fishing; and others, again, to the cold and raw nights to which their
profession exposes them on the bosom of the deep. In the autumn of 1832,
this parish was afflicted with Asiatic cholera, which here assumed all its
most appalling and frightful symptoms. It was imported from Leith in one
of the fishermen's boats, and soon spread over the village with its
characteristic rapidity and mortality. In the short space of six weeks, in
a population of little more than 350 souls, it swept off no less than 23.
Its ravages, however, were entirely confined to the fishing-town of
Colliston.
Hydrography.—All along the
coast, there are many and copious springs of the purest, coolest, and most
delicious water. These springs are generally found along the rocky part of
the coast, at the base of high and steep braes covered with verdure, from
under which they rush out in a stream as abundant as a rivulet, and in
quantity sufficient to turn an ordinary mill. There are a few chalybeate
springs, the strongest of which is found near the old kirk of Forvie; but
their medicinal qualities have never been sufficiently tested so as to
gain them any repute.
There are three lakes in
the parish, and one of these, called the Muckle Loch of Slains, is really
a magnificent sheet of water, covering, in the depth of winter, a basin of
from seventy to seventy-three acres in extent. It is surrounded on three
sides by a ridge of land, Kippet hills, rising, by an easy acclivity, to
the height of from fifty to sixty feet above the level of its surface. Its
mean depth may be about twenty feet; but, in one place, it has been
ascertained to be fifty-two. The only outlet from it is by a small stream
at the south end, which has been converted into a dam, to drive a meal
mill about a mile below. The other two lochs, called Cot-hill and
Sand-loch, have evidently been formed by the drifting of the sands from
Forvie, and each covers a space of about fifteen acres. The only river is
the Ythan, formerly mentioned as forming one of the boundaries of the
parish.
Geology and Mineralogy.—
The rocks along the coast consist of gneiss and mica-slate, alternating
with, here and there, thin seams of quartz, and their direction is from
north-east to south-west, and their dip north-east. The small eminences,
already alluded to as intersecting the parish, called the Kippet hills,
are composed of gravel, mixed with smooth and polished limestones,
generally from one to sixteen pounds, and few of them exceed the latter
weight. Formerly they were carefully picked and burned for lime by the
farmers, which produced most excellent crops. This species of manufacture
has now long been given up, as English lime may be had at greatly less
trouble and expense. The burning of these stones must have been carried on
to a very considerable extent, as many excavations along the whole line of
the ridge are still very obvious, though now covered with grass. The
organic remains found in these limestones, are mussels and other shells.
Though occasional blocks of granite are to be found in some districts, yet
there are no rocks formed of it; but so soon as the boundary to the
north-east of the parish is crossed, the gneiss and mica-slate disappear,
and graduate into red granite. This parish abounds with a kind of
calcareous sand, which was long extensively used as a manure, and is still
profitably employed on newly reclaimed land. It is of a very hot nature,
and must be used with much caution. Many vestiges of its injudicious
application are to be seen on different farms, where it has been laid on
in such quantities as to have burned up the soil, and rendered it
incapable of bearing a crop. Fortunately, however, the scorched places are
only in small patches, here and there,—the surrounding land having had
strength enough to resist its influence. This sand varies in colour and
size. It is chiefly of a grayish hue, and from the different strata
visible throughout, it is evidently of marine production, as the strata
consist of pulverized shells. Every kind of soil, from the heaviest clay
to the lightest sand, is to be found here, but the chief character is
clay. There is a tract of land, at the average breadth of a mile,
extending across almost the whole of the parish, of a deep loamy soil, and
most superior description, and, but for the climate, it would vie with the
most fertile parts of Scotland. This lies on the estate of Colonel J.
Gordon of Cluny Castle.
Zoology.—The Ythan produces
salmon, grilse, salmon trout, burn-trout, eels, flat-fish of several
descriptions, and also cole-fish, sand-eels, and herring-fry, which
latter, in some months of summer, are caught in great abundance. In an
economical point of view, the mussels found in this river are of the
greatest importance, supplying bait not only to Colliston, but many other
fishing villages on the east coast of Scotland. The rent for these was
once L.500 per annum, but is now reduced to L.300. This reduction is owing
to the great floods, of late years, washing away the beds, and rendering
the mussels so scarce as to do little more than supply the fishing
villages in the neighbourhood, while formerly they were transported along
the whole line of the east coast. This river, especially in the winter
season, opens a wide and interesting field to the student of ornithology.
It is frequented by a greater variety of birds than most rivers in Great
Britain.
Trees, &c.—There is not a
single tree in the whole bounds, except on the estate of Leask, belonging
to Mr Gordon of Parkhill, and these are by no means large or of a thriving
appearance. I planted a few forest trees, such as birch and mountain-ash,
in the garden, about ten years ago. The birch has gradually withered away,
while the mountain-ash is very little thicker and no higher than when
planted. The cultivation of gooseberries has also completely failed,
though tried on the sunniest and most sheltered spots in the garden ; and,
after an experiment of twelve years, the bushes are now dug up, having, in
the most favourable seasons, produced not more than two or three pints of
fruit, and these never fully ripened. Buckthorn or marine-thorn has been
successfully introduced, and, with the exception of the elder, thrives
greatly better than any other shrub the writer ever planted. Under skilful
management, hedges might be formed of it, which, though they could never
prove a proper fence, would serve to beautify this naked and bare
district.
II.—Civil History.
Land-owners.—There are only
two land-owners,—Colonel Gordon of Cluny,—and Mr Gordon of Parkhill, whose
property of Leask amounts to nearly one-fifth valuation of the whole
parish. Neither of the proprietors reside on their estates here.
Parochial Registers.—The
parochial register extends back only to the year 1722, and has not been
very regularly kept, owing to the neglect of parents to register.
Antiquities.—The foundation
of the old kirk of Forvie is still visible, being the only vestige
throughout the whole sands, commonly called the Links, which indicates
that this district was once the habitation of man. Graves have been
discovered around it, but nothing found in them except a few bones. On the
estate of Leask, there is another ruin of a religious house, evidently a
Roman Catholic chapel, as the place where the altar stood is plainly
discernible. It is small, but must be considered a fine old ruin, and in a
state of better preservation, if the term can be so applied, than could be
imagined from its supposed antiquity. One gable and Gothic window are
still nearly entire, and the walls are overgrown with ivy. It stands in
the middle of a small plantation of stunted firs and alder, on a little
eminence gently rising from a swampy bottom, with a rivulet half enclosing
it on the south side. It is called St Adamannan's chapel, and is said to
have been erected in the end of the sixth or commencement of the seventh
century in honour of that saint, who was a follower of St Colum-ba. Its
antiquity is problematical, as its present appearance does not warrant a
belief of its having been built at such a remote period. The extensive
ruins of the old Castle of Slains, once the residence of the Errol family,
stand in this parish, on the top of a rock jutting out into the sea, at an
elevation of from 100 to 120 feet. Previous to the use of cannon, it must
have been almost impregnable, the only approach to it being by a narrow
defile on the north, which a few resolute and daring men might have made
good against any opposing force. In the year 1594, the Earl of Errol
having joined in the Earl of Huntly's rebellion, James VI., at the
instigation of the politic Lord Lindsay, issued orders for its entire
demolition, which were faithfully executed ; and nothing of this ancient
castle now remains but three sides of a square tower, and some masses of
masonry strewed around it.
Mansion House.— The only
modern building is the House of Leask, built by the late William Gumming
Skene Gordon of Park-hil!, about thirteen years ago. It is a substantial
and elegant residence, and is at present let to Sir William Seton of
Pitmedden, Bart.
III.—Population.
There are only two villages
in the parish, Collieston, and the Old Castle, almost wholly inhabited by
fishermen. The former contains 89 houses, and 167 inhabitants; the Old
Castle, 14 houses, and 48 inhabitants.
IV.—Industry.
Agriculture.—The number of
Scotch acres in the parish under cultivation is about 6000, and the system
of husbandry is of the most improved description. The farmers are most
industrious and enterprizing, and readily adopt any new improvement,
either in the breed of the cattle or mode of farming. During the currency
of the present leases, there have been upwards of 900 acres of waste land
brought under tillage, while the rest of the arable land has been drained,
and rendered much more productive. With the exception of the sand links
and peat moss, there is very little barren or waste land; and in a few
years, if no check is imposed on the spirit of enterprize, the whole will
be reclaimed. The routine of cropping generally followed is, one crop of
oats, then turnip, or other green crop, next bear or oats, and last two
years grass The chief proprietor has a considerable breadth of land, in
his own hand, on which he has grazed, for some years past, a flock of
sheep amounting to the number of from 1200 to 1500; but there is no
permanent pasture save a little along the coast. The rent varies from L.1
to L.4 per acre; and by a regulation lately introduced, it is paid in
grain, half oats half bear, at the fiars prices. The duration of leases is
nineteen years. Several farm-houses have been lately built, which are in
every respect more comfortable and commodious than the old ones; and on
the expiry of the leases, now at hand, there will be a considerable number
of new erections. Bone dust and steam conveyance have united in producing
a new and improved system of rearing and feeding cattle; and the attention
of the farmer has of late been greatly turned to that profitable branch of
industry, which has certainly attained to a wonderful degree of
perfection. Total number of cattle, as far as can be ascertained, 1118;
amount of cattle sold, L.1242; bolls of corn and bear, 3992.
Fisheries.—The inhabitants
of the only two villages, Collieston and Old Castle, are chiefly employed,
and wholly dependent upon white-fishing, and realize an excellent
livelihood from their laborious and very dangerous avocation. They are
superior to other working tradesmen in the property which they possess,
never interfere in the politics of the day, and are most regular
attendants on the public ordinances of religion. There is a great variety
of fish caught, viz. ling, whiting, mackerel, turbot, halibut, skate,
soles, flounders of different species; but what they chiefly depend upon,
are haddocks and cod, which they catch in great abundance. They smoke and
cure the haddocks principally for the Leith and Glasgow markets, which at
an average fetch about 9s. the hundred, six score to the hundred. The
haddock-fishing yields L.1 weekly per man, when the weather permits their
going to sea, and they are not allowed to go oftener than twice a-day, a
regulation properly introduced by the tacksman of the river Ythan, to
prevent the extravagant consumption of bait mussels, and in order to
reserve a sufficient quantity for the neighbouring villages. The mussels
are sold at the Aberdeen market from 6d. to 9d. per peck; but the
fishermen here pay a stipulated sum yearly,—the young men L.3 each, and
those above sixty years of age, L.2. They are allowed to gather the
mussels only on their own side of the river. The cod-fishing continues
from October to February inclusive, and the fish are contracted for by a
merchant who pickles and barrels them for (he London market, at the
average amount of L.1, 8s. per barrel, each containing about seventy fish,
for which he pays to the fishermen 4d. a-piece over head. The number of
barrels during the season is 293, which produces a handsome revenue to all
concerned. Of late years, five boats, with the requisite complement of men
and women, have gone to Peterhead for the herring-fishery, which has
hitherto proved a profitable speculation, and not so detrimental to
morals, as might have been expected from the accounts given of the
demoralizing effects of this sort of occupation.
V.—Parochial Economy.
Market-Town.—There is no
market or post town nearer than Ellon, which is distant six miles, and
letters and papers are brought thence.
Ecclesiastical State.—The
site of the parish church is within 300 yards of the sea coast; but it is
conveniently situated for the population, as the extreme point does not
exceed above three-and-a-half miles distance from it. It was built about
forty years ago, is seated to contain about 654, and is regularly well
attended. The number of communicants varies from 450 to 470. The sittings
are all free, and no other church or chapel of any description within the
bounds. The number of Episcopalians may be rated at 20, and Seceders of
all denominations at 5. The extent of glebe, including manse, garden, and
offices, is about 5 acres; and the stipend 16 chalders, half meal half
barley.
Education.— Two years ago,
there was erected a very handsome school-house, forming two sides of a
square, of the very best materials; but the slating, masonry, and general
finishing of the whole bear little proportion to the excellence of the
materials; the rain already greatly damaging the roof and walls. The
branches of instruction taught in it are, English reading, writing,
arithmetic, Latin, mathematics, and navigation, and the schoolmaster's
salary is L.30 per annum. He has the legal accommodation. There is an
adventure school in the village of Collieston, attended by about 25
scholars; but they are chiefly young, and merely taught the rudiments of
education.
Parochial Funds.—The
average number of poor on the roll is 32, and each receives annually about
L.1, 12s.; and once and again, the allowance was returned to the session,
from an unwillingness to receive it; but this honourable feeling of
independence is fast disappearing. The poor are almost entirely supported
by the weekly collections at the church doors, and the interest of a small
fund of L.140 Sterling, deposited in the bank at the common rate of
interest. The amount of the weekly collections is about L.43 Sterling; and
were it not for the additional assistance they get from the farmers, in
the shape of meal, potatoes, &c. the funds would altogether be inadequate
to supply their necessities.
Ale-houses.—There are three
ale-houses in the parish, and one wholesale spirit-merchant.
Fuel.—The fuel chiefly used
is peat, obtained from the moss already mentioned, and which contains 245
acres.
Miscellaneous Observations.
The principal variation in
the state of the parish since the date of the last Account, is the vast
and rapid improvement of the system of husbandry. At that period, old men
affirm, that it was no uncommon thing to see a plough drawn by six horses,
or by twelve oxen, and the work performed did not much exceed in extent
what is now done by a pair of either animals, while the execution is
inconceivably superior. The improvement of the implements of husbandry and
breed of horses which has been introduced, has thus greatly lessened the
expense of farming operations; as one man with his pair of horses will do
even more work than could formerly be executed by two men and a dozen of
oxen, with their clumsy and cumbrous implements. Another important
improvement since the year 1791, is the vast superiority of the breed of
cattle, the system of rearing and feeding, and the great extent to which
it is now carried on. The breadth of land under turnip cultivation is
inconceivably greater than it was; while the quality of the root itself is
of a much better description, as the growers have long devoted their most
scrupulous attention to the improvement of the seed. Each man raises his
own seed, and carefully selects the best of each sort to plant out. The
principal kinds are, the green top and yellow bottom, red top and yellow
bottom, a few tankard, and a considerable portion of ruta-baga, chiefly
for feeding, in May and June. It is much to be desired that authentic
information were obtained of the progress of the drifting sands of Forvie,
which now cover and lay desolate 1700 acres of land. The traditionary
tales on this subject are mere legends, which in no manner can be depended
upon. The greatest part of these links cannot be traversed without
producing in the mind feelings of dreariness and desolation, as they
present nothing but knolls and pinnacles of pure sand, of various
dimensions, scantily covered with bent. Parts here and there might be
reclaimed, but it would be at an enormous expense, and at the eminent risk
of their being again soon swallowed up. At the north-west boundary, there
is an immense ridge of sand which is still encroaching on the land, but so
slowly, that, if a judgment may be formed from its progress for the last
twelve years, ages must have elapsed ere such a large district of country
could have been overwhelmed.
February 1840. |
