Arbroath and its Abbey

Preface

THE following pages have been published chiefly for those who take an interest in the locality of the ancient and now flourishing town of Arbroath, and also with the view of removing the obscurity which has hitherto involved the history of its once magnificent monastery. Among other sources of information the Chartulary of the Abbey is entitled to stand first in rank. The most interesting portions of these monastic writings have been digested and arranged in this volume. An endeavour has thus been made to bring out the points in which they, along with other authentic documents, tend to illustrate the history of the district.

In alluding to the history of past times, our ancestors have been allowed as far as possible to appear in their own dress, and speak in their own words. This will account for the number of quotations in the antique style, which may probably render the perusal of some portions of the book a little difficult to readers otherwise well educated. But if months or years are spent in the endeavour to acquire a knowledge of dead languages two or three thousand years old, some trouble ought to be taken with the view of being able to read with facility our own living mother tongue, in the garb which it wore two or three centuries ago, so that it may not be unintelligible unless expressed according to our present conventional orthography. Many details, which to general readers not acquainted with the locality may appear sufficiently minute, are inserted in the text, instead of being placed in foot-notes, as it was considered desirable to avoid that distraction of attention which numerous notes invariably occasion. For the same reason references to the pages of the Arbroath Chartulary have not been made, as these, if introduced, would have become innumerable and cumbersome. They would, at the same time, have been of no use to those who do not possess that collection of writings ; and those, on the other hand, who may wish to verify any statement founded on it, will be at once able to do so, by the names and dates referred to, with the help of the tables of contents and indices of the published Chartulary.

It was omitted to be stated in the tenth chapter that the lands of Aldbar have been ranked among the possessions of the Abbey on the authority of an entry in the "Charge of the Temporalitie," 1592, which is not altogether conclusive in the absence of corroborative evidence; and that although Cotside and others near Barry have been generally ranked among the Abbey lands, the authority for placing these lands in the catalogue is not very satisfactory, as they do not appear in the proper monastic writings under their modern names.

While these sheets were in course of preparation the Author made every effort to procure definite information on the subject of the alleged pillage and conflagration of the Abbey Church about the time of the Reformation. He has not, however, succeeded in being able to fix the exact manner in which that building was unroofed and laid desolate. But a careful study of every contemporary record within his reach has tended to confirm him as to the correctness of the statements made in the text, that whatever might have been threatened or attempted, no general pillage or burning of this majestic edifice had taken place at the period in question; and that its state of ruin can be easily accounted for on other grounds, by a simple reference to the churches of the Abbeys of St Andrews, Lindores, Coupar-Angus, and others, where the demolition is much more complete than at the Church of Arbroath, and where the agency of fire has never been stated to have been applied.

It need scarcely be explained that the notices of the town of Arbroath have been in general limited to the period when the monastic establishment existed in its neighbourhood. The history of Arbroath during the last hundred and fifty years, including the extension of its population, buildings, manufactures, and commerce, within that period, could not have been added without swelling the volume far beyond the limits originally contemplated; and is a subject which, along with the traditionary history of the burgh and its vicinity, yet remains to be taken up by one who can devote to it the necessary amount of time and research.

The Author does not flatter himself that what is now given to the public can escape what every book of the kind is peculiarly liable to, namely, the detection of errors and omissions. He has endeavoured, however, to make no definite statement, unless upon good authority: without being deterred from offering this contribution to the history of the district by that over-scrupulous dread of mistake which has prevented many persons well read in the affairs of Scotland from giving to the world the benefit of their researches. There could not be found a more striking instance of this than in the case of the late Reverend Principal Lee, who has allowed much of his vast stores of information to die with him; and who, under the influence of this sensitiveness, most kindly dissuaded the author several years ago from engaging in an undertaking of a nature somewhat antiquarian, by referring to another friend who had devoted much time and labour to the early history of a northern county, which, when published, "after all contained some mistakes, and there were several things omitted."

In the preface of a book devoted to the detail of facts regarding Arbroath, an allusion to a work of fiction supposed to bear reference to the same place may be allowed. An attentive reader of Scott's inimitable novel, "The Antiquary," acquainted with the vicinity of Arbroath, will have little doubt that it contains the scenery of that story. The allusions to the battery, the common, the Grecian porch of the new Council-house, the great interest taken in merchandise and linen manufactures, and the doings of the postmistress, are, among other marks, quite sufficient to identify the town of Arbroath forty or fifty years ago with the Fairport of the novel. Auchmithie and Ethie-haven are described with Scott's usual power in his pictures of the fishing hamlets, and contain fisherwomen who might sit any day as the originals of Maggie MIucklebackit. Ethie Rouse is the only mansion in the neighbourhood that suits the description of Knockwinnock. But the claims of identity with Monkbarns are divided betwixt Seaton and Anniston, while the description does not exactly suit either. The high rocky coast between Arbroath Ness and Redhead will supply Halketheads and Bally-burgh Ness Points in abundance. A poet's license is taken in placing "the root o' an aik tree" among the cliffs, and in making the sun set over the waves of the German Ocean during the storm ; and also in removing the ruins of St Ruth (described as Arbroath and Melrose Abbeys intermixed) from the bustling vicinity of a large town into one of the dells of the district, such as the den of Arbirlot. These liberties were obviously used for greater effect, and probably to involve the narrative in some degree of disguise. The veil becomes, however, very transparent when the writer makes Edie Ochiltree meditate on his appearance in the eyes of the villagers while he was "coming down the edge of Kinblythemont"—a phrase which will suggest to every inhabitant of the neighbourhood the bluegown's return toward Arbroath, along the old Brechin road leading by Chapelton and the policies of Kinblethmont.

The Author takes this opportunity of returning his thanks to those gentlemen whose subscriptions have led to the present publication; and also to those who have facilitated his researches by affording information or access to original documents.

The frontispiece, engraved by Mr J. Adam, Edinburgh, a native of Arbroath, is from a drawing which the author made in order to shew the front of the Abbey Church as it now exists. and would appear to passengers were the view not obstructed by modern buildings which have been erected within a yard or two of its walls.

ARBROATH,
1st November 1859.

Contents

General Introduction
The Monastic Writings of Arbroath : Historical subjects on which they supply information: Introduction of surnames: Topographical naives, and variations, changes and translations of same : Anglo-Norman and other settlers in Angus: Royal residences from 1178 to 1249: Introduction of Shires and Sheriffs: Formation of Parishes: Adoption of Tutelar Saints : Nature of Abthaneries: The Culdees and their Abbes: Culdees of Abernethy and Brechin: Causes of the fall of their order: Indications of Culdees at Monifieth and Arbirlot.
Chapter I - The Town of Arbroath and its Dependencies
1. Origin and Condition till the foundation of the Abbey. 2. The Harbour. 3. Formation of Older portion of the Burgh. 4. Formation of Newer portion of the Burgh in the Almory. 5. Local Terms in the Town and neighbourhood.
Chapter II - Constitution and Rank of Burgh
Arbroath at first a Burgh of Barony and Regality: Made a Free Burgh by special grants: Temporarily represented in Parliament A.D. 1579: Made a proper Royal Burgh in 1599.
Chapter III - Social State of Angus in the Twelve Century
Condition of Rural and Urban Population at the time of the foundation of Arbroath Abbey: Slavery of the Rural Population: Power of the Barons: Burghs as Fountains of Liberty and Progress: Emblems of Burghal Freedom in Arbroath and other Burghs: Early state of Urban Inhabitants.
Chapter IV - Arbroath from 1440 to 1640
Depression of Scotland in the Fifteenth Century: Civil broils: Chamberlain Aires: Subjects of Investigation: Condition of Craftsmen: Arbroath at the Reformation, and after its Erection into a Royal Burgh.
Chapter V - Erection and Style of the Abbey Buildings
Date of commencement: Mixture of Norman and Early English Architecture: Stages in the progress of building: Succeeding styles of Architecture shewn in the buildings.
Chapter VI - History of the Abbey Buildings
Accidents to Great Church during the Romish Period: Contract for roofing the Choir: Damage done at the Reformation: Greater destruction since that Period: Other Conventual Buildings, Ecclesiastical, and Civil: Precinct walls and towers: Ruin of the Buildings.
Chapter VII - Subsidiary Alters in Abbey Church
1. Altar of St Catherine. 2. Altar of St Peter. 3. Altar of St Lawrence. 4. Altar of St Nicholas. 5. Altar of St Mary the Virgin. 6. Altar of St James. Appearance of Church on Festivals.
Chapter VIII - District Chapels in Arbroath and Neighbourhood
1. Chapel of St Vigian at Conon. 2. Chapel of St John Baptist at Hospitalfield. 3. Chapel of St Michael in the Almory. 4. Chapel of St Ninian at Seaton Den. 5. Lady Chapel of Arbroath, with the Altars of St Nicholas and St Dupthacus. 6. Chapel of St Lawrence at Kinblethmont. 7. Chapel at Whitefield of Boysack. 8. Chapel at Boath, Panbride Parish. 9. Chapel at Panmure Castle. 10. Chapel at Kelly Castle. 11. Chapel of St Lawrence at Backboath. 12. Chapel of St Mary at Carmylie.
Chapter IX - Church of St. Vigeans
1. Fabric of Church and Old Monuments. 2. Altars of St Vigian and St Sebastian. 3. Priests and Ministers of St Vigeans since A.D. 1200.
Chapter X - Possessions of the Abbey
1. Lands, Baronies, Villages, &c.—In Angus, Mearns, Perthshire, Fifeshire, Lanarkshire, Aberdeenshire, Banffshire, Inverness-shire. 2. Tenements in Burghs. 3. Fishings. 4. Ferryboats. 5. Woods and Forests. 6. Saltworks. 7. Churches, Tithes, &c. 8. Original Annual Rents. 9. Burghs. 10. Rents at Dissolution of the Abbey.
Chapter XI - Subordinate Officers of the Abbey
1. Sub-Prior. 2. Steward. 3. Chamberlain. 4. Terrarius or Land-Steward. 5. Sacristan. 6. Granitor. 7. Cellarer. 8. Master of Works. 9. Judge or Deemster. 10. Justiciar or Bailie. 11. Mair and Coroner.
Chapter XII - The Abbots of Arbroath
1. Influence and incidental Advantages of Monasteries in early times. 2. Scottish Ecclesiastics at and previous to the foundation of the Abbey. 3. Biographical Sketch of the Abbots of Arbroath, from 1178 to 1606. 4. Causes of the Dissolution of the Abbey.
Chapter XIII - Description of the Conventual Buildings
Form of the Church, Towers, Divisions, Columns, Roofs, Doors, Windows: Dimensions of Buildings : External and Internal Appearance of Church : Remaining Statues: Conventual Seals: Bell Rock.

APPENDIX.

No. I.—Note
On the Decay of Feudal Power and Emancipation of the Rural Inhabitants of Scotland.
No. II.—Sketch
Of the Life and Times of JAMES MELVILLE, Minister St Vigeans, during the period from 1560 to 1600, being a supplement to the Sketch of the Abbots of Arbroath.
No. III.—Selections
From the Records of the Magistrates and Council of Arbroath, illustrative of the Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants about the time of the Reformation.