of the most famous, yet rarely visited glens in all of the Highlands, Glen
Lyon is also one of the longest- at least for a mountain cul-de-sac as
opposed to a long rift valley. It opens from the Appin of Dull, at
Fortingall, and extends 25 miles westwards, roughly parallel with
Loch Tay to the south. Just past Loch Lyon, it merges into a high pass
which leads to the head of Glen Orchy.
Throughout that long distance it winds in wild beauty amongst ever more
solitary peaks, and varies as much in character, as in width and height.
Indeed, its constant variety, between gentle beauty and fierce grandeur,
is part of the great attraction of Glen Lyon.
West from the village of Fortingall, only a mile up the glen, is
MacGregor's Leap, where in 1565, the Chief of the landless Greglach made
an incredible leap across the river chasm when pursued by Campbell
Bloodhounds. Two miles further up, there are a series of spectacular
waterfalls, as the Allt Da-gohb rushes down to the floor of the
At the next hamlet, Innerwick, there is the 18th century Glen Lyon Parish
Church. But the hub of the glen is a little farther on, at Bridge of
Balgie. Here the road forks, one branch turning south-westwards to climb
steeply over the shoulder of Ben Lawers to Loch Tay. The other road
continues up the glen, climbing to avoid the lands of Meggernie Castle, a
fine late 16th century structure, whitewashed and set amidst ancient
trees. It was built by Cailean Gorach, or Mad Colin Campbell in 1580, who
amongst other exploits abducted the Countess of Erroll and held her there.
Another lady is said to haunt Meggernie. She was the wife of a Menzies
laird, who murdered her in a fit of jealously, and then cut up her body
into halves for better disposal. Perhaps for the best, it her upper half
which haunts the castle.
Three miles on, the Glen Lyon road passes Loch Cashlie where, at the side
of the road are a group of cairns and what appears to be an ancient
earth-house. As the head of the glen is neared, or at least the road-end,
the scenery becomes more bleak and treeless. Beyond rear the mountains of,
Ben Achallader and Heasgarnich, and ranging to the south the fierce
contours of the Tarmachan mountains.
kindly supplied by Scot Travel